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Interlocking Compressed Earth Blocks

Volume II. Manual of Construction
Geoffrey Wheeler, Center for Vocational Building Technology

der Aus von it Arbe

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GTZs GATE programme

The Deutsche Gesellschaft f?r Technische Zusammenarbeit (GTZ) GmbH (German technical cooperation) is a government-owned corporation for international cooperation with worldwide operations. GTZs aim is to positively shape political, economic, ecological and social development in partner countries, thereby improving peoples living conditions and prospects. Through the services it provides, GTZ supports complex development and reform processes and contributes to global sustainable development. GTZ functions similarly to a consultancy. The German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) is its main financing organization. GTZ also undertakes commissions for other government departments, for the governments of other countries, for international clients such as the European Commission, the United Nations or the World Bank, and for private-sector corporations. GTZ operates on a public-benefit basis. GTZ has more than 10,000 employees in some 130 countries in Africa, Asia, Latin America, in the Eastern European countries in transition, and in the Newly Independent States of the former USSR. Around 8,500 are locally contracted nationals (national personnel). GTZ maintains its own field offices in 63 countries. Some 1,000 people are employed at Head Office in Eschborn near Frankfurt am Main. (For further information see: www.gtz.de) GATE is a GTZ working unit. Its responsibilities include several projects in two main areas: the Information Service on the Adaptation and Dissemination of Technologies (GATE-ID), including the Coordination Service for Appropriate Building Technologies (BASIN); and the Small-Scale Project Fund (GATE-SSPF) While most GTZ-supported projects cooperate with government organizations, GATE works mostly with NGOs. GATEs objectives are to improve the technological competence of NGOs and other groups active in self-help oriented poverty reduction and to generate information and knowledge management systems for them. GATE supports the transfer to and exchange of technological information through regional partners, a question-and-answer service, testing and dissemination of innovative technologies and networking and professionalizing of information services. The GATE Information Service, GATE-ID, can provide information about any type of technological question that is relevant for its clients, including information about: * design and technical feasibility of various technologies * environmental, social and economic impacts of technologies * organizational aspects of technologies * management, requirements and methods to fully utilize technologies * skills required for various technologies * the marketing of products * experience with technologies The numerous publications and technical briefs provided by GATE information service can be found on the website http://www5.gtz.de/ gate/gateid.afp German Appropriate Technology Exchange - GATE in: Deutsche Gesellschaft f?r Technische Zusammenarbeit (GTZ) GmbH Postfach 5180 / D-65726 Eschborn / Germany / Phone: (06196) 79-0 / Telex: 407 501 0 gtz d / Fax (06196) 79 48 20

The Center for Vocational Building Technology (CVBT)

The CVBT was founded in 1991 to create new employment in Northeastern Thailand by promoting small-scale manufacture of concrete building materials. These can replace imports to the region and help reduce the migration of workers to Bangkok or foreign countries. The CVBT now serves Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam and many other corners of the world.

Production, Research and Development

The CVBT uses, researches, develops and promotes small-scale building material manufacturing technologies as a means to create new employment for villagers. Products produced by villagers at the CVBT include: a large concrete roofing tile (the MCR Semi-Sheet), a small tile (the MCR Roman II), Rice Husk Ash Cement, Curved blocks for building water tanks, Interlocking Compressed Earth Blocks and ornamental paving slabs.

Training
Training programs are held by request. Most production curriculums are 10 days and include raw material selection, production, testing and equipment maintenance. Courses are held at the Center and on site. All curriculums include a gender consciousness activity. Centre for Vocational Building Technology, Kilometer Stone No. 147 Friendship Highway Group 5, Ban Thin, Tambon Ban That, Phen District, Udon Thani 41150 THAILAND Telephone/FAX (66) (042) 248423, (01) 2611715 Email cvbt@loxinfo.co.th Creating employment for villagers through modern small scale technology and training in building material production

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Interlocking Compressed Earth Blocks

Volume II. Manual of Construction
Geoffrey Wheeler, Center for Vocational Building Technology

A Publication of Deutsches Zentrum fur Entwicklungstechnologien - GATE A division of the Deutsche Gesellschaft fur Technische Zusammenarbeit (GTZ) GmbH in coordination with the Building Advisory Service and Information Network - BASIN

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Copyright Deutsches Zentrum fur Entwicklungstechnologien - GATE A division of the Deutsche Gesellschaft fur Technische Zusammenarbeit (GTZ) GmbH All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the Publisher. Printed in Thailand ISBN *-**-*****-*

Acknowledgments The author wants to thank the many villagers and development workers who contributed to the development of this book. In particular we want to thank: Erwin and Fongnewen Keller of Soil Block Development, Chiang Rai Thailand for their support and technical advice. Loren Halter for review. Supawadee Maneewan for illustrations. Hagen Von Bloh, Janett Gareis and the BAFIS team in Laos for drawings and photos of their work in Pakse. Jon Van Lint, architect, for the drawings and photographs of the Health Center at Huay Phu Ling. CRATerre-EAG for their support, encouragement and review.

Cover Photo: Suban, a Thai villager ejecting an interlocking compressed earth block.

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CONTENTS 1

CONTENTS
SCOPE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 HISTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 RHINO BLOCK ADVANTAGES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 RHINO BLOCK DATA SHEET . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 FOUNDATION FOOTINGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 VERTICAL REBAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 FIRST LAYER LAYOUT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 BUILDING A WALL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 LAYING A 3-WAY WALL INTERSECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 GROUTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 POURING REINFORCED CONCRETE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 FINISHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 DILUTING ACID . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 WINDOWS, DOORS, BEAMS AND ARCHES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 SECOND FLOORS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 ELECTRICAL WIRING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 WATER PROTECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 STAIR STEPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 ATTACHING THE ROOF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 PILLARS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 CUTTING AND DRILLING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 STRUCTURE FOR BUILDINGS WITH LOAD BEARING WALLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 APPENDIX A - STORE PLANS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 APPENDIX B - HEALTH CENTER PLANS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

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2 SCOPE

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SCOPE
This manual was written in response to the increased use of this technology. Interlocking compressed earth blocks are now widely used In Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. Development workers in Cambodia and Laos have long asked for training and reference material in their languages. This 2-volume set of production and construction is published In English, Thai, Lao and Khmer languages. The English version of this set can be used as an extension of the 2-volume set Compressed Earth Blocks published by gate/GTZ. how to do tasks. Guidelines, simple rules, are given. The manuals are ordered in the way the villagers will produce or build. I hope that a foreman or teacher will be able to use these manuals to lead villagers in producing high-quality blocks and in building strong beautiful buildings with experienced masons.

Primary School - Vientiane, Lao

Bungalow - Thailand

These manuals cover interlocking blocks that have male and female dowels that interlock. This manual does not apply to the Hydraform interlocking block that is used in South Africa and India. It has interlocking channels and its method of production and construction are different. These manuals apply to blocks commonly referred to as Rhino blocks, Thin Rhino Blocks and Wa Taw blocks. The focus is on the Rhino blocks but the principles and methods can be used with all blocks. The interlocking blocks refered to here are stabilized with cement. This manual does not cover unstabilized earth blocks. These manuals are written to be understood by villagers. Additional information for architects and engineers is given in Appendixes. The main focus is on practice:

I want to suggest that steel reinforcement is overused in todays concrete construction. Non-reinforced examples of footings are given along with examples of arches. Steel reinforcement is, however, very necessary in places where there are earthquakes.

Health Center - Mae Hong Son, Thailand

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HISTORY 3

HISTORY
Earth blocks have been used for many centuries beginning with adobe, molded mud-straw blocks. Modern stabilized compressed earth block production is dated from 1956. That year, Raul Rameriz, a Colombian engineer developed the CINVA Ram block press. buildings. Non-government organizations, villagers and development projects use them to build village-meeting halls, low-cost homes, training centers, offices and to

Secondary School - Bolingkhamxai, Laos

generate income for villagers. In neighboring Laos and Cambodia they are used extensively for primary school construction as well as in other development projects. Another popular use Two-Story House - Chiang Mai, Thailand in Asia is in building fences. The Rhino block Beginning in 1967, TISTR, Thailand Institute of is becoming popular in other countries as Scientific and Technological Research, well: they have appeared in the Philippines, began research and development with Indonesia, Vietnam, USA, and South Africa ordinary compressed earth blocks. The TISTR to name a few. The blocks can be used in research and development team places where there are earthquakes as long introduced an interlocking block in 1983. as there is appropriate steel reinforcement. Later, the Asian Institute of Technology (Pathum Thani, Thailand) and Soil Block Development Company (Chiang Rai, Thailand) both developed a larger block than TISTRs. These may be referred to as Rhino blocks. Today the use of both size blocks is widespread in Thailand. They are very popular in the North and along the Eastern Sea Board. There are many village groups and private companies producing them. While village groups use manual presses, private companies prefer powered hydraulic presses with cement mixers and conveyor belts. In Thailand construction contractors use the blocks in private homes, mansions, schools, churches, large warehouses and resorts. Government projects use them in health stations, police boxes and other public
Bungalow - Chiang Rai, Thailand

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4 RHINO BLOCK ADVANTAGES

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RHINO BLOCK ADVANTAGES

INTERLOCKING COMPRESSED EARTH BLOCK CHARACTERISTICS * NO PILLARS - The blocks make load-bearing walls. Inside corners of walls are square. There are no pillars to clutter a room. * INTERLOCKING - The blocks have a male top and female bottom that lock with overlapping blocks. They are easy to lay and require no mortar. * ECONOMY * No mortar for joining bricks. Saves on cement and labor. * No plastering required. Saves on cement and labor. Female dowel * Quicker construction - no waiting for cast posts or beams to harden. * No moldboards for cast posts or beams. Male dowel * Load bearing walls require less re-bar (reinforcing steel). * STRENGTH - Blocks are high density and stabilized with cement. They have a compressive strength suitable for two or even three story buildings. Grout poured in holes permanently bonds blocks together. * BEAUTY - Blocks made from laterite have a warm red hue. * COMFORT AND QUIET - The 15-cm (6-inch) thick block provides thermal and sound insulation. A building is comfortable and quiet. * DURABILITY - With a good foundation and roof, ICEB buildings can last 400 years or more. Blocks lock together without using Other than this, a Rhino Block has some additional benefits: * Uses a locally available material: soil from digging fishponds. * Replaces wood as a building material: conserves trees. * Creates local employment from both production and construction.
cement mortar.

Blocks lock togther in even rows making a smooth wall

No cement is needed for mortaring or plastering

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Rhino Block Data sheet
5

RHINO BLOCK DATA SHEET

Half Channel Corner Block

Building Block

Channel Block

Channel Corner Block

Pillar Block

Half Corner Block

Corner Block

Half Channel Block

Half Block

Horizontal rebar material usage per meter Cement (Portland) 0.63 kg Sand 0.90 litre Stone Dust or Pea Gravel (1/4) 1.80 litre Material usage per square meter Blocks 33.33 blocks Cement (mortar) 3.13 kg Sand 7.50 litre Soil Dust 0.30 kg

Vertical rebar material usage per meter Cement (Portland) 0.25 kg Sand 0.36 litre Stone Dust or Pea Gravel (1/4) 0.72 litre Wall data Weight (7.9 kg/block) 263 kg/sq. m. Strength* (7800 kg/block) 26,000 kg/meter

*Typical compressive strength for a 10% cement stabilzed Rhino block.

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6 FOUNDATION FOOTINGS

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FOUNDATION FOOTINGS
The purpose of the foundation footing is to receive the load from the walls and distribute it over the ground. The size of the footing depends on the weight of the building, how much weight the soil can support, and the type of material used. For a load bearing wall footing, it is not usually necessary to place the footing deep. If the soil is the same type and is hard in all places it is possible to dig the footing trench as little as 20 cm deep. Of course, for soft wet soil with no drainage, piles (pillars pounded into the ground) will probably be necessary. Concrete Reinforced with Steel Footing A reinforced concrete footing is good especially in places with earthquakes. Make sure that the steel rod used is free of rust and is well covered with concrete: no pieces should be near the surface or sticking out (except the vertical rebar, which will receive blocks). Cyclopean Concrete Footing Cyclopean concrete is concrete that uses large stones to minimize surface area and economize on cement. It is not always necessary to use steel in the footing. Steel footings have a disadvantage; after many years the steel may rust, expand and cause the concrete to crack. Instead of a steel reinforced footing, a nonreinforced cyclopean concrete footing can be used. A cyclopean concrete footing will save both cement and steel. Because it is nonreinforced it will be thicker (and possibly wider) than a reinforced concrete footing. Shown below are some examples of nonreinforced footings. It is not possible to mix large stones in concrete. The concrete and stones must be placed in layers. The large stones should not touch each other. You should select extra-large stones that are as big as the width of the footing to be placed every 60 cm: they will make the structure stable. Use concrete 1:3:5 (cement:sand:stone, ratio by weight). Use mixed stone sizes.
Cyclopean concrete.

Pouring a cyclopean concrete footing. Notice the large stones being added.

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FOUNDATION FOOTINGS
7

EXAMPLES OF CYCLOPEAN CONCRETE FOUNDATIONS If a reinforced concrete foundation is used, cast vertical rebar in the footing. If you use a non-reinforced foundation, use all channel blocks in the first block layer and reinforce it with steel: this is a ring-beam. Tie the vertical rebar to the horizontal rebar.
.25

(WATER PROOF PLASTER 3 BLOCKS HIGH )

(BLOCK)

.45

VERTICAL REBAR IS TIED TO RING BEAM* SEE VERTICAL REBAR ANCHORING RING BEAM*: SMOOTH 9 MM REBAR CYCLOPEAN CONCRETE
(PLASTIC FILM TO PREVENT THE WALL AND FLOOR FROM SUCKING WATER) (SAND FILL)

One-story building footing for soft drained soil.

CHANNEL BLOCK
(CONCRETE FLOOR)

.09

CONCRETE 5 CM

SAND 5 CM
.25

One-story building footing for hard soil with drainage.

*A RING BEAM IS HORIZONTAL REBAR LAID IN CHANNEL BLOCKS COMPLETELY AROUND THE BUILDING

.39

.60

One-story building footing for soft wet soil.

.22

.44

.52

.40

Two-story building footing for hard soil with drainage. Second floor is concrete.

.65

Two-story building footing for soft soil with drainage. Second floor is wood.

.85

Two-story building footing for soft wet soil. Second floor is wood.

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8 VERTICAL REBAR

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VERTICAL REBAR
VERTICAL REBAR PLACEMENT Place vertical rebar at the sides of door openings and at corners and intersections.

Set out the rebar positions accurately. The rebar will be in line with the large holes in the blocks.

Notice the rebar for the buttress in the long wall.

VERTICAL REBAR ANCHORING

A building without a reinforced steel footing will use channel blocks as the first layer and tie in the vertical rebar.

15 cm

Cut rebar as high as you can put a block on it. Or, bend the steel over.

Weld

Bend and hook Ways to extend rebar

Wire tie

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FIRST LAYER LAYOUT 9

FIRST LAYER LAYOUT

The layout of the first layer of blocks is the most important. Make certain that only full blocks are used. No half blocks should be used except for a dead end. If a half block is used in the middle of a wall or at a corner then it will always have to be used. This will give a stairway pattern spoiling the block pattern and making a weak line. BUILDING A WALL OF THE LENGTH YOU WANT The older a block press is the longer the block will be. This is because the metal in the press wears. Some press manufacturers make their presses short (29.7 cm instead of 30.0 cm). When a building is laid out with batter boards and string, it is laid out to an even number (for example, 6 x 3 meters). Short blocks can be laid with a small gap in-between so that the wall length comes out correct. Some grout will come out the gaps. That is OK, just clean it up. The blocks can also be laid touching each other. The building will be slightly smaller (for example, 5.94 x 2.97 meters). Blocks that are oversize will make a slightly larger building than was laid out; adjust the layout strings to the block size. DOORWAY OPENINGS Door openings are usually 3 blocks wide (90 cm). Pay attention to the first layer of blocks. For a 31/2-block wide (105 cm) doorway a half block must be used on one side of the opening. When the lintel level is reached above the door, the blocks will fit and the regular pattern will be unbroken. A 3-block wide door opening should not have a half block on only one side.

A half block may be used on the first row only at a dead end or a 3 -block wide door opening.

LAYING THE FIRST LAYER OF BLOCKS 1. It is best to draw the first layer on paper to make sure full blocks fill the first layer. 2. Use batten boards and layout lines to set the size of the building. 3. Lay the blocks dry to double check that only full blocks are used and to

Measure to layout strings and make blocks fill the length. It is OK to have a small gap between the blocks. These blocks are laid on a concrete slab. This is appropriate for a small one-story building.

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make sure any vertical rebar lines up with the block holes. If any rebar doesnt line up, chisel out a grove in the footing and bend the rebar.

Chiseling and bending rebar to line up with block.

Use a piece of plastic film (such as PVC used in making motorcycle seats). Sandwich the plastic between 2 layers of mortar.

4. Add a waterproof layer to prevent the wall from sucking up water from the footing. The waterproof layer can be anything that will stop water. Three common methods are:

Paint coating of tar (also known as bitumen or Flintcote). Make sure it covers the area completely, any hole will allow water up. Use a 2-4 cm layer of rich mortar. This should be similar to that used to plaster inside a water tank. Masons will often use a regular mortar and then sprinkle a lot of cement powder on top. Trowel the cement into the mortar and lay the block on top.

5. Mortar the first layer to the footing. Use a 1:3 cement/sand mortar. Make the top surface of the blocks level and even with each other. Make the row straight

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BUILDING A WALL 11

BUILDING A WALL
Before you begin building check your level to make sure it is correct.

Watch out for bad levels. Switch the sides of the level. If the bubble doesnt stay in the same place it is time to fix or replace that level. The illustration above shows a bad level.

BUILDING A VERTICAL AND STRAIGHT WALL Use a level or plumb bob to check the corner blocks and intersections of walls. Pull a line from corner to corner. Lay the blocks to this line. BUILDING A LEVEL LAYER OF BLOCKS If a block is too small or too big it will make a layer of blocks uneven. Blocks that are too small can be corrected for by using nails of different diameters. Blocks that are too big cant be corrected. Leave the nail heads sticking out. Liquid grout will fill the spaces. Pull the nails out after the grout hardens.

Every corner is a reference point; Make sure they are straight and vertical.

Set the corner blocks and pull a line between them. Then lay the blocks in between. Notice the short block with the nails under it. Use different diameter nails under short blocks of different heights.

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LAYING A 3-WAY WALL INTERSECTION

There are 2 patterns for laying a 3-way wall intersection: Cobra and P)eacock. The best one is Cobra. In some cases it is necessary to use the Peacock pattern to make the first layer of blocks with all full blocks. Both patterns repeat after 4 layers.

COBRA PATTERN

A cobra pattern begins with a block laid into the intersecting wall

Two cycles of a Cobra pattern. ! = full block into the wall " = half block

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LAYING A 3-WAY WALL INTERSECTION 13

PEACOCK PATTERN

A peacock pattern begins with a block laid along the straight wall.

Two cycles of a peacock pattern. ! = full block into the wall " = half block

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GROUTING
Grout Mix
(1 mix makes 60 litres. A Rhino Block wall uses 7.5 litres/sq. m. 1 mix is enough for 8 sq. m.) Mixed Cement 25 kg Sand 10 buckets Soil Dust 2.5 kg (make the colour like the block color, if grout leaks it will contrast) Water Important: make the grout very watery, it needs to flow easily.

GROUTING 1. Build 10 layers of blocks (1 metre high). 2. Pour water in the grout holes. This is important to prevent dry block from sucking the water out of the grout. 3. Pour the grout. A funnel or pitcher is useful for pouring the grout. Make sure the grout goes all the way down. If the joint is not fully grouted you will be able to see through the wall and rain might come in. It is OK for the grout to leak out at the block joints and at the gaps made by levelling nails. 4. Clean the wall soon after wards (about 20 minutes): use a scrub brush or sponge and lots of water to wash it down. Any remaining cement marks can be cleaned with dilute acid after the building is finished. 5. Spray water on the whole wall 3 times per day for 3 days to cure the grout. If it dries out it will not bond the blocks together.

Mix soil dust with grout to give it color.

Use a funnel to direct grout into the small holes. Pour grout in the small holes only. Leave the large holes empty.

Move a rebar up and down in the hole to help the grout flow down.

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GROUTING 15

Grout running out of the wall is good.. It means the grout has gone all the way down. Clean the wall with a sponge and water.

Grout channel blocks before laying rebar and pouring concrete.

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POURING REINFORCED CONCRETE

Mix 1:2:4
Portland Cement Sand Stone dust (1/4") 25 kg 6 buckets 12 buckets

1 mix = 40 Meters Horizontal RC or 100 Meters Vertical RC (Reinforced Concrete) Make a wet mix to make sure it fills the hole. After pouring, water the wall 3 times per day for 3 days.
Concrete Pour 2-layer reinforcement at the same time

Stuff Paper in the large holes to keep the concrete from goinhg down tro lower blocks

Dont lay the steel rebar directly on the bottom of the channel block; raise it up 1-2 centimeters.

Vertical pour

Horizontal pour

Examples of pouring reinforced concrete.

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FINISHING 17

FINISHING
CLEANING Grout drips and efflorescence can be removed using a dilute (20%) mix of hydrochloric (muriatic) acid and water. Wear eye and hand protection. Acd wassh before installing windows or doors because acid will stain them. Apply by sponge not by brush (it will splash). Wash wall with water afterwards.
Area cleaned of grout drips and efflourescence

grout drips

Efflourescence

Wash off efflorescence and spilled grout using dilute acid: Pamuang, Laos. Notice the difference in the areas that have and have not been washed.

FINISHING There are many ways to finish a compressed earth block wall: * No Finish: The wall will last many years. The natural color is beautiful. * Plaster (lime or cement): Should not be used because it will trap water inside the wall and it will flake off. * Soil-Cement: Apply by brush. A mixture of soil dust (sifted from crushed soil) and mixed cement or lime. Use about 10% dust or an amount that gives the desired color. This gives a beautiful natural color and gives protection against water.

A wall with a soil-cement finish being painted on. Notice that it covers up efflorescence and grouting marks.

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A painted school: Cambodia

* Paint: Water based acrylic paints stick well and provide protection against water. * Soil and Glazing: Apply a soil and water mix by brush. Let it dry. If the color is too strong, wipe some off with a cloth. If the color is too weak, brush on some more. When it drys, spraying on a water-based glazing (not a varnish that requires thinner) will make the soil stick. Two layers of glazing are good.

A glazed interior wall: Nong Khai, Thailand

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DILUTING ACID 19

DILUTING ACID
BUYING HYDROCHLORIC (MURIATIC) ACID Ask where to buy hydrochloric acid at hotels that have a swimming Pool. Hotels buy acid in 20-liter jugs. Other places to look are workshops that make ice boxes or rain gutters from galvanized sheet metal. They will have acid in 1-liter glass bottles. Do not use acid for car batteries; it is a different type of acid. CAUTIONS 1. Acid should be clearly labeled. 2. Acid should be stored outdoors. Storing indoors will cause metal objects near by to rust from acid vapors. 3. Rubber gloves and eye protection should be worn. 4. If acid splashes in an eye or on skin wash it off immediately with a lot of clean water STEPS IN DILUTING ACID A 20% dilute acid solution is made from 4 parts clean water and I part acid. Pour the water into the jug first. Then pour the acid into the water. Do not pour water into acid. The acid will splash out. It is dangerous. Dilute acid can be used with bare hands for a short time (an open wound will sting). It is much safer than concentrated acid. If working with dilute acid for a long time wear rubber gloves. It is always best to wear safety glasses.

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20 WINDOWS, DOORS, BEAMS and ARCHES

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WINDOWS, DOORS, BEAMS AND ARCHES

For door and window lintels use channel blocks. Beams are made the same way. For spans over 105 cm, use two or more layers. Usually, smooth 9-mm-diameter rebar is sufficient. WINDOWS AND DOORS
For a 2-layer channel block lintel extend the steel rebar 1 block lengths beyond the opening.

A two-layer reinforced-concrete lintel.

Ordering Wooden Door and Window Frames Order (or make) door and window frames after laying the blocks. In this way you will avoid having a gap around the frame or a frame that wont fit in the window opening. If the frame is installed before all the blocks are laid, there will be a gap or, the top of the frame will not fit even with the row of blocks on top of it.

A one-layer reinforced-concrete lintel.

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WINDOWS, DOORS, BEAMS and ARCHES 21

Keeping Water Out

Fastening Door and Window Frames

Use galvanized steel flashing above and a There are many ways to fasten a window fired brick sill below to keep rain from coming frame to the blocks. One way is to: into a window. 1. Drill holes in the blocks. 2. Put plastic or wood inserts in the holes. 3. Screw screws through the frame and into the insert. Avoid putting holes in the bottom of the window frame: they can cause leaks.

Window head, sill and frame

A boy on a bench (a beam), Udon Thani, Thailand

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22 WINDOWS, DOORS, BEAMS and ARCHES

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Independent Breast Windows Independent Breast windows are one way to prevent cracking at window corners due to settling. The breast (the area directly under the window) is independent of the rest of the wall. This also allows the window to be converted to a door.

A wall being built with an independent breast window: Songkla, Thailand.

BEAMS

Villagers handicrafts store, Pakse, Laos

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WINDOWS, DOORS, BEAMS and ARCHES 23

ARCHES Since ancient times, unreinforced arches (no steel rebar) have been used for door and window openings. They are beautiful, peaceful to the eye, and they distribute the weight of the building naturally around an opening. They are strong and durable. Here you will see 3 arch designs with some building methods. It is best to draw an arch carefully before trying to build it.

Arches add beauty and strength to a building.

A 205-cm Semi-Circle Arch A 90-cm semicircle arch made with Rhino blocks. Notice the special keystone at the top of the arch: it is needed to fill the odd-sized opening at the top.

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24 WINDOWS, DOORS, BEAMS and ARCHES

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Arch Construction Laying an arch is not so hard, but it does require planning and attention to details. Prepare blocks by filling in their holes. Cast keystones or cut springpoint blocks. Make an arch framework. Put it in place. Mortar the blocks up around the framework.

Steel frameworks for arch building.

Two keystones and their molds. They are cast concrete with soil dust mixed in so they will be the same color as the earth blocks.

A 205-cm steel framework being used to build an arch. Mortar the blocks in place with mortar colored with soil dust.

The blocks in an arch must be solid: fill in the holes in the blocks with mixed cement mortar. Cast the mortar in the holes in advance so it is hard before laying the blocks.

Blocks next to an arch need to be cut to fit around it. Lay the blocks next to and above the arch immediately and remove the steel framework within 2 days. The arch will settle a little under the load of the blocks. If you wait until the mortar between the arch blocks is hard then the arch will crack when it settles. If you load it soon after building it, the mortar will give and settle too.

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WINDOWS, DOORS, BEAMS and ARCHES 25

90-cm Independent-breast Dutch Arch The following illustrations show how to build up a Dutch arch. The arch springpoint blocks are specially cut, but this arch requires no special keystone. It will fit exactly in 3 courses of blocks. The sides of the openings are buttresses for the walls.

Specially cut springpoint blocks

Construction of a 90-cm independent breast window with a Dutch arch.

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26 SECOND FLOORS

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SECOND FLOORS
A second floor may be made many ways. Presented here are: precast plank floor with a reinforced topping, precast concrete joists with a cast slab and wood joists with a wood floor. REINFORCED PRECAST PLANK FLOOR WITH A REINFORCED TOPPING

Rebar - 6 mm to fasten wire mesh with wall Wire mesh - 4 mm high-tensile strength wire @ 15 cm Concrete topping - 5 cm thick Wooden shuttering is needed on the outside of the wall to make form work for the floor. After removal the concrete can be plastered to look nice. Reinforced precast prestressed floor plank 35 x 5 cm Floor plank overlaps reinforced channel block 4 to 6 cm giving room for vertical rebar in wall. Floor planks must rest on a level and smooth surface; chisel or plaster cement to make the top of the channel blocks smooth and level.

Parts of a precast floor-plank floor.

A precast floor-plank floor.

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SECOND FLOORS 27

PRECAST CONCRETE JOISTS WITH A REINFORCED CAST SLAB Joists requre some block cutting. They look neater without the need for shuttering on the outside of the wall or plastering.
Form wood for casting floor Precast reinforced concrete joist Form wood is supported by steel rods in place of wooden supports. The joists have holes to insert the rods.

Precast reinforced concrete joist set in place. Form wood in place for pouring concrete 2nd floor

WOOD JOISTS WITH A WOOD FLOOR

Lay a layer of channel blocks under the joists. This will distribute the load of the floor on to the wall. The wall needs openings for the joists. Cut blocks before laying them.

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28 Electrical Wiring

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ELECTRICAL WIRING
The wiring can be run in the large holes in the blocks. Most of them are empty. Plan your wiring in advance. Draw up a wiring plan showing locations and heights of plugs, switches and lights. Think out the way you will run the wiring in the wall. Decide whether you will put plug and switch boxes in the wall or have them out on the wall. If they are embedded in the wall make sure you cut openings in blocks as you build the wall.
PVC pipe (or other material) 12 cm long; used to keep an opening in concrete for running wire. Choose a pipe size large enough for the wires you will put through it. Place the pipe before pouring the concrete

Run the wires around the building on top of the wall.

Put a pipe at the level of beam block of the door if wires need to pass through at that point.

Cut or drill the blocks as you lay them: dont wait until you finish building the wall.

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WATER PROTECTION 29

WATER PROTECTION
Wetting and drying of a wall is the enemy of earth blocks. If an earth block building is well built and maintained it will last 400 years or more. The wall should be protected from capillary rise from the earth and from water entering from the top of the wall; a building needs good boots and a good hat. If you plaster, the plaster must breathe. That is it must let moisture out. If you do a waterproof plaster, it may flake off the wall. Be careful that your plaster doesnt suck water up from the foundation or ground. Glazing an earthen wall will help keep it in good condition longer. Be sure that the glazing can breathe: for example, water-based acrylic glazing.

A roof with enough overhang

A water drip strip above windows and doors. A sloped window sill

Waterproof plaster to 2 layers above foundaion level

A layer of tar to prevent water sucking.

A foundation that rises above ground level.

Characteristics of a water resistant system.

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30 STAIR STEPS

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STAIR STEPS
Rhino Blocks have a good size (30 cm long, 10 cm high) for making stair steps. Two blocks high (20 cm) + 1 block long (30 cm) = 50 cm. This is just right for the stride of most people.

Front steps to a home. Udon Thani, Thailand

.20

.30

Stairs to rooftop patio. Chiang Rai, Thailand.

Back door stoop. Udon Thani, Thailand. Notice how the steps fit the womens stride easily.

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Attaching the Roof 31

ATTACHING THE ROOF

Attach the roof structure to vertical steel rebar in the wall. If the roof structure is steel, weld it to the rebar. If the roof structure is wood, weld a steel plate to the rebar and attach the plate to the wood with bolts. Rest the roof structure on the top of the walls. Use mortar to make each surface the same level. A steel plate will distribute the load.

Steel Roof Structure

Wood Roof Structure

Weld the structure to the vertical rebar Steel Plate

Bolt a steel plate to the wood structure weld and the plate to the vertical rebar Steel Plate

Weld the rebar to the plate Leveling Mortar

Weld the rebar to the plate Leveling Mortar

Using welding to attach a steel roof structure to vertical rebar.

For a wood roof structure attach the roof structure to the vertical rebar using bolts and welds.

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32 PILLARS

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PILLARS
Building pillars from blocks is done for porch posts, carports and where roof structure or floor support is needed. A pillar must be able to support a bending force. Therefore it is necessary to make the foundation for a pillar deeper than for a load-bearing wall. Or, make connecting ground beams or a wide base.
Force

Pillar Block Do not grout a 2-block pillar. Waterproof plaster 3 blocks above ground level

A pillar must be buried deep and have a wide base to support a force.

100-150 cm deep

A 45-cm Rhino block pillar. Notice that all the corner holes of all the pillars are poured with concrete reinforced with steel rebar.

20 cm thick

90 cm wide A typical steel-reinforced footing for a 2-block pillar for a house porch. A 60-cm Rhino block pillar. Notice that the cavity in the middle is empty; it is not necessary to fill it with anything.

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CUTTING AND DRILLING 33

CUTTING AND DRILLING

Blocks need to be cut for electrical openings, for arch spring blocks and for joists. Blocks should not be cut for laying regularly. Always use batter boards and layout strings. Lay the first row of blocks dry (without mortar) completely to make sure the blocks fit. Use a level or plumb bob to make sure the wall is built vertically. CUTTING Use a diamond or tungsten carbide blade to cut blocks. Abrasive discs or steel hacksaw blades will work but will wear out quickly. Use eye protection and a breathing protection if you cut with a power tool.

Cutting a block with a diamond disc. Use eye protection when cutting.

DRILLING Drill with a concrete drill bit. Do not use a power impact drill: it will crack blocks. Where ever possible (for example: drilling to hang pictures, fasten door jambs or moulding), drill at block joints: there is less chance of cracking.

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34 Structure for Buildngs with Load Bearing Walls

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STRUCTURE FOR BUILDINGS WITH LOAD BEARING WALLS

Interlocking compressed earth blocks are used to build load-bearing walls. People in South-East Asia and other regions traditionally use post and beam construction. Loadbearing walls need intersecting walls to be the structure of the bulding. Use interior walls to divide a home or building into useful areas (e.g., bedrooms, kitchen, living areas, etc.). Rectangular rooms next to each other will help build a good structure. The top layer or second to top layer of blocks of a biulding should be a layer of channel blocks. This will help hold the building together.

3.75 meters

3.6 meters Kitchen

3.6 meters

Living Room Bath

Bed Room

Bed Room

A house floor plan showing how to use intersecting walls as structure. Notice that there are no walls longer than 4.5 meters

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Structure for Buildngs with Load Bearing Walls 35

5.25 meters

A sample floor plan showing how to use rectangles to divide up lving space.

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36 Structure for Buildngs with Load Bearing Walls

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There should be 45 centimeters of block between a corner and an opening (door or window) or between openings.

Use a buttress to stiffen a wall longer than 4.5 meters.

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Structure for Buildngs with Load Bearing Walls 37

If it is necessary to make a wall longer than 4.5 meters stiffen the wall do one of the following; put a buttress on the inside or outside of the wall; Or, put a zig-zag in the wall.

Add a buttress indie or outside the wall

Make the wall zig zag

Lay the blocks to make a recessed window or a place for a closet or bookcase space

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38 APPENDIX A - STORE PLANS

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APPENDIX A - STORE PLANS

These are plans for a handicraft store outside of Pakse Laos. The store was built under the sponsorship of the German GTZ\BAFIS support project for the Non-formal Education Department of Lao. Photos are courtesy of BAFIS.

This floor plan for this store could easily make a nice bungalow

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APPENDIX B - HEALTH CENTER PLANS 39

APPENDIX B - HEALTH CENTER PLANS

This appendix contains plans for the Public Health Center at Tambon Huay Phu Ling, Capitol District, Mae Hong Son Province, Thailand. Interlocking compressed earth blocks can be used to make modern buildings that meet government standards.

All the blocks and roof tiles for the center were made on site.

Men and women helped to build the health center

Layuing blocks on the 2nd floor