Complete Mini Moto Guide PDF

Mini Moto Bike and Tuning Guide 47cc & 49cc
The information contained within this Document is given in 'good faith' and should not be taken as hard fact unless you accept; 1) It may contain risks that become your responsibility if you take the advice. 2) It may contain inaccuracies or have omissions. 3) It maybe beyond your skill to implement modification/adjustment successfully. If you are in any doubt - GET ANOTHER OPINION or DON'T DO IT! The writer will not be liable for any damages or compensation for any issues resulting from the use of anything from within or omitted from this document. This Information is not intended for children or minors.
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The Myth of the Mark I and Mark II a. What Actually Matters b. Engines i. Series I ii. Series 2 iii. Series 3 c. Frame, Fairings and Tank d. Carburettors Air Filter & Housing 2. a. Standard i. 8 Port Housing ii. 6 Port Housing b. Performance i. Performance Filter with Standard Housing ii. Cylindrical Replacement Filter iii. Cone Shaped Replacement Filter Fuel Filter 3. a. Standard b. Performance Exhaust 4. a. Standard b. Performance Spark Plug 5. a. Standard b. Performance Carburettor 6. a. Jets i. Standard ii. Performance iii. Adjustable b. Bore i. Standard ii. Performance c. Idle Adjustment d. Throttle Cable Adjustment e. Air to Fuel Mixture Timing & Coil 7. a. Standard b. Rocket Key c. Adjustment Without Rocket Key Reeds 8. a. Standard b. Performance i. Reed Block ii. Fibre Glass iii. Carbon Fibre iv. Split or Non-Spit Cylinder Block 9. a. Series One, Two and 3 Engines b. Ported c. High Capacity d. Increasing Compression 10. Piston a. Standard b. Race Lightened c. Oversize 11. Gearing and Chain a. Rear Cog b. Front Cog c. Drive Ratio d. Chain 12. Clutch a. Standard b. Performance
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Clutch Continued>>> c. Springs i. Standard ii. Performance iii. Quality Aftermarket d. Clutch Housing i. Single Bearing ii. Twin Bearing Tyres a. Sizes b. Pressures c. Dry Use Tyres d. Wet Use Tyres e. Puncture Repair f. Puncture Prevention Wheel Bearings a. Size b. Z Version c. RS Version Brakes a. Early Brakes b. Later Brakes c. Maximising Performance i. Settings ii. Levers d. Ultimate Stopping Power Head Set Bearings a. Size b. Z Version c. RS Version Boost Bottle a. Where it Fits b. What it Does c. How it Works d. Variable Boost Bottles Juice Box a. What it Does b. Where it Fits c. How it Works Nitrous Oxide a. Nitrous Oxide what is it? b. The Theory of Nitrous Oxide and the Petrol Engine c. Explanation of the Kits currently available d. Where to get & How to make one of these Kits from 18 !!! e. How to fit these Nitrous Kits. f. The Problems and Dangers you NEED to be aware of. g. Overcoming Problems h. What effects it will have on your bike. (Good & Bad) i. Recommendations. Foot Pegs a. Standard b. Aftermarket Forks a. Front Mount for Axle b. Rear Mount for Axle c. Brake Mounts i. What Side? ii. Early Brakes iii. Later Brakes Handlebars Cut-Out Switch a. Standard b. Alternative Tooling a. Basic Tools b. Recommended Tool Kit c. Advanced Tools and Instruments Standard & Performance Parts Supplier
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The Myth of the Mark I and Mark II a. What Actually Matters An interesting myth that has occurred with the development of the Mini Moto is the perception of the Mark I and Mark II Bikes. The Mark of the bike is actually relatively immaterial. All it means is that it is the producing factories second generation model of a particular bike; this does not necessarily mean that it is better than other factories MkIs. There are many Manufacturers of Mini Motos and they all buy the bits to produce them from other companies, so the bikes are generally largely similar in appearance. To get the best bike you should consider the individual mix of parts on each particular bike not the claimed Mark.
b. Engines There are actually three main engines in the development chain all are still commonly available to buy, easiest described as a Series they are as follows: i. Series I Early and current 47cc engines with a relatively low power output and low compression. ii. Series 2 49cc Engines become first claimed mkIIs usually paired with a full fairing frame. These engines are fairly low compression but a huge improvement on the 47cc machines. Also around this point Ignition Coils were improved. iii. Series 3 The most up to date 49cc engines, higher compression and more power and torque than the earlier 49cc lump. The cooling properties of this cylinder/head are also better; a more powerful coil yet has been introduced to.
c. Frame, Fairings and Tank Frames are very varied as most of the manufacturers spec there own. At the most basic level there are two general templates that depend on the Fairing kit intended to be used on the bike. If you want a more durable bike with stronger fairings look for 4 bolt/screw heads on the seat pad. To ensure that the seat section of fairing is supported, a newer style frame with high level support section at the rear to stop accidental breakage of the rear end is the best. Older style bikes will have two bolts/screws on their seat pad and use a different frame and petrol tank. Basic bikes will have part fairings and are generally very cheap. The other key feature of note is the shape of the tubing; square or round? Both are sufficiently strong and it is more important that the welds on the frame are of good quality and workmanship, so its really a matter of personal preference. Earliest models usually have no rear mudguard on them with the first of the full fairing bikes having a basic black plastic one, the newest bikes tend to have coloured guards that bolt on in 4 places and are the most secure and effective.
d. Carburettors There are two main carburettors that you will come across DelOrto (shown here) is the favoured one but both work sufficiently well. 47cc usually will have a .64mm jet and better 49ccs may have .66mm, but you will probably never know what comes as standard as they dont usually come with that much detail in the manual.
2. Air Filter & Housing a. Standard i. 8 Port Housing 47ccs and early 49s will usually have a air box with 4 tubes in the bottom and four open areas around the filter to draw air. ii. 6 Port Housing The newer standard housing has the same four open areas around the filter but has two slots in the bottom instead of the 4 tubes. These slots allow the air to flow into the housing more freely and in greater volume, therefore are slightly better. b. Performance i. Performance Filter with Standard Housing It is possible to find people offering upgraded filters that fit in the existing unit. These filters are intended to allow the air to flow more freely through them through them yet still filter the air. It is more advisable to buy a proper complete performance filter. ii. Cylindrical Replacement Filter High Performance Filters offering excellent air purification and a low resistance to the air flow. Draw air from around the side. iii. Cone Shaped Replacement Filter Similar to above but has a greater surface area of filter to help grab more air into it.
3. Fuel Filter a. Standard The Standard filter is there to clean particles of dirt from the fuel and prevent blockage of the jet in the carb. b. Performance As with air filters the main aim of a performance fuel filter is to allow the fuel to flow more freely, remembering to sufficiently clean the fuel at the same time. 5
4. Exhaust a. Standard These are a straight forward exhaust; with a silencer back box and gas expansion section. The purpose of the expansion chamber is to allow the hot compressed gas room to spread so as not to create large amounts of back pressure in the exhaust. b. Performance Performance exhausts will always have a larger expansion chamber as they are designed to be used with other modifications when the engines will produce more heat and more pressure in the exhaust. Freer flow in the exhaust helps the engine breath and increases power and torque levels. Performance exhausts will usually be made of quality stainless steel.
5. Spark Plug a. Standard An important part of any bike; provides the spark to ignite the fuel. Plugs will wear out over time and will need replaced; a poor spark will mean mediocre or poor performance and running. b. Performance Performance plugs generate a bigger spark with the same electricity and also deal with higher temperatures better, such as those experienced when the bikes are modified. These plugs will make your bike run smoother and with more power and response.
6. Carburettor a. Jets i. Standard The fuel jet is located in the bottom section of the carburettor and allows more or less fuel into the engine depending on how much the needle is removed from it (pulling the throttle cable). Standard jets are normally .64mm but occasionally some bikes have .66mm. ii. Performance Performance Jet packages will usually offer a pack of four jets; .66mm, .68mm, .70mm, .72mm this allows you the option of setting how much fuel you need to flow to the engine depending on your other modifications and is a good range of sizes. Most modifications will benefit from the fitting of a larger jet. iii. Adjustable Adjustable jets allow you to alter the amount of fuel that passes through manually and also affords the luxury of external adjustment without disassembly to a very fine degree excellent if you have a lot of modifications or keep changing your bikes setup. b. Bore The bore of the carb is the diameter of the air channel through the carb over the jet and out. i. Standard The standard carb will have a 12mm bore (hole through middle) to allow air to be drawn through over the jet. The amount of air allowed through is dictated by how much throttle cable is pulled; also if the choke is on less air can physically enter the carburettor. ii. Performance Performance Carburettors usually have a bore of 14mm or more to allow more air to pass through them to aid combustion. Often the face of the bore will be smoothed and ported to promote the free flow of air; the carb will also have a larger fuel jet to supply more fuel. To keep the Air/Fuel Mix correct.
6. Carburettor Continued >>> c. Idle Adjustment Idle adjustment is done with the small gold coloured screw head on the side of the carburettor. What this screw actually does is limit the throttle block inside the carb from going right down (closing the carb). It allows you to set the minimum amount the carb can allow air /fuel through thus setting the tick-over engine speed. This should be enough to run smooth but not enough to turn the wheel while on the stand idling. d. Throttle Cable Adjustment The throttle cable can be adjusted via an adjuster barrel at the handlegrip housing or by means of another barrel adjuster on the top of the carb. Turning either of these clockwise will tighten the cable; remember to tighten down the locking nut/ring around the barrel to stop it vibrating and moving itself. You simply need to have the cable tight enough to allow the throttle grip to move the throttle body inside the carb from rest on the idle screw to fully open. e. Air to Fuel mixture Air to fuel mixture is adjusted by moving a small c clip inside the carb on the jet needle. Moving this clip downwards will increase the fuel in the mix, moving upwards will decrease the amount of fuel in the mix. This adjustment is rarely required unless changing the jets, etc.
7. Timing & Coil The ignition timing and spark are provided on these bikes by means of a coil mounted to the side of the engine at the flywheel. a. Standard Standard coils can vary between manufacturer the better coils produce a much greater spark and aid power significantly. Like wise a poor coil will hamper performance considerably. There is also no adjustment for the spark timing, it is set by the manufacturer fairly early in the engines cycle to allow fuel to begin to ignite before the piston reaches the top of the cylinder to increase the combustive force on the piston as it descends. b. Rocket Key Bikes that are modified e.g. air filter, fuel jets, reeds etc. are capable of igniting the fuel much quicker so a degree of the extra power is wasted as the enhanced combustion is trying to oppose the direction the engine is running in. Fitting a rocket key will mean that the timing of the spark is slightly later in the pistons cycle, so more of the combustive force of the fuel forces the piston down on its stroke and is not wasted on the compression stroke. Rocket keys are a well worth while modification if you are, or already have other modifications. 8
7. Timing & Coil Continued >>> c. Adjustment Without Rocket Key The holes where the Coil Pack bolts on can be modified into slots following the line of the fly wheel. This can be done, with care, with a drill and allows the coil to be bolted on using longer bolts with nuts on the other side. The advantage this gives is that you can advance and retard the timing of the ignition to any point in your slots. Move it round to the left to retard the timing and to the right of the original position to advance it.
8. Reeds The Reeds are located between the inlet manifold and the crankcase. They allow the piston to draw air/fuel mix from the carburettor into the crankcase when it is on its compression stroke. They then close as the piston descends the barrel after ignition, creating compression in the crankcase forcing the fuel up into the cylinder. a. Standard Standard reeds are made from metal and have a split down the middle. These are sufficient for most bikes and fairly durable. b. Performance Performance reeds are lighter close faster and seal better creating higher compression in the crank case, this is good for power and torque. i. Reed Block Performance reed blocks allow the reeds to open further and close quicker than standard blocks, although the benefit of this mod is generally not worth the money unless you need a new reed block (rare). ii. Fibreglass Reeds Fibreglass Reeds are efficient at closing and seal very well, they will make the bike more responsive and increase compression in the engine giving more power. The bike will also sound less tinny when its running. iii. Carbon Fibre Carbon Fibre Reeds have the same benefits as fibreglass ones however are generally less prone to splitting or cracking. Again the difference between metal and carbon fibre reeds is clearly audible. iv. Split or Non-Spit Some reeds do not have a split in them. The key difference in them is they will generally close slightly faster than the ones with a split; at the cost of reducing incoming air flow marginally. The difference is probably negligible; the key thing is the material and quality of the reed. 9
9. Cylinder Block The cylinder block/head is critical in dictating the capacity of the engine and also the efficiency of the engine. a. Series One, Two and 3 Engines *See Section 1 part B* b. Ported The inlet and exhaust ports in the cylinder head can be ported or gas flowed to allow the gases to flow into and out of the engine more efficiently. Porting or flowing will increase the engines power as it can breath more with more efficiency. This is best done if you have all other aspiration modifications done as it is relatively expensive for the gains in performance you get. c. High Capacity Several aftermarket kits are available to increase the capacity of your engine. These kits usually consist of large bore cylinder head, larger diameter piston to match the head, piston rings and all related gaskets etc. These will usually be polished and ported and have better heat radiating properties than the original head. These kits are a more expensive modification but the power difference is massive. d. Increasing Compression An old school way of raising compression in the head is to lower the squish. The squish is the term given to the gap between the piston and the top of the cylinder head. Most bikes will have a gasket around 1-2mm thick below the cylinder block. This gasket can sometimes be replaced with an instant gasket put on in liquid form if the surfaces of the engine in question are smooth enough to allow. Removing this gasket will lower the squish and increase compression, remember to check that the piston will not foul the sparkplug. It is also important to note that the intake and exhaust timing will be slightly retarded, so is best left to those with a better understanding of the engines to decide if it is of real benefit to any individual machine.
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10. Piston Pistons on these bikes are of fairly standard tyre made of an alloy and have 2 sealing rings. a. Standard Piston Alloy piston with a flat surface and two sealing rings. Roller bearing fit to crank rod. b. Race Lightened As standard piston but with metal removed from areas strong enough not to require it, this increases power as the piston has less weight to change direction as it works; the piston will be going up and down around 8,400 times a minute at peak power on a standard bike, so a small amount of weight saved can make a big difference to the engines performance. This is one of the latter things you might consider doing to your bike. c. Oversize Oversize pistons increase the engines capacity but need the head to be bored out to accommodate them or a specially designed head, see section 7c.
11. Gearing and Chain Both acceleration and top speed depend on the gearing ratio of your bike. Where your sprockets are concerned, to increase one will decrease the other. a. Rear Cog The larger the rear cog the quicker the bike will accelerate but will detract from the top speed. Ergo a smaller sprocket on the rear will increase the maximum speed but slow acceleration. b. Front Cog The larger the front cog on the bike the faster its top speed will be. Cogs are available from 6 teeth (standard) to 9 teeth. Not many people will recommend a bigger sprocket than 7 tooth as although more teeth means more top end, there is no point if the bike takes so long to get there that its no fun. c. Drive Ratio The Drive ratio is the true way to gage your gearing setting. It is simply the following equation; Number of teeth on front sprocket Divided by Number of teeth on the rear sprocket equals the Drive Ratio. The figure this gives you is your drive ratio raising this number will increase your top speed and slow your acceleration, lowering the drive ratio will speed up acceleration and make the bike more responsive but lower the maximum speed. d. Chain It is vital that the chain is kept tight in accordance with manufacturers instructions and that it is kept well oiled. Oiling the chain can and will increase its life massively. No performance chain available as yet. 11
12. Clutch The clutch system in these bikes is a centrifugal system. This means that the clutch shoes are thrown outwards to contact the clutch drum. The outwards force of the clutch shoes means that the clutch bites better at higher revs. a. Standard Standard clutch is a 3 shoe unit using sintered shoes, with 3 springs to hold the shoes back till the engine revs above tick-over. b. Performance Performance clutches, like standard, have 3 shoes and springs. The sintered material on the contact points will be more durable and grip better than the standard unit. Springs will be stronger and more durable to allow the engine to rev higher before contact is made increasing take off. c. Springs i. Standard Standard Springs will be made of far eastern steel and are relatively week and prone to breakage often. ii. Performance Performance springs are usually made of quality western steel. They are thicker and far more durable than the standard springs. They are also a stronger spring than the standard; allowing the engine to reach higher revs before contacting the drum. This means that there is more power applied to the bikes take off, increasing potential acceleration. iii. Quality Aftermarket It is also possible to buy quality British steel springs that are thicker and more durable than standard. They also allow the bike to rev slightly higher before the clutch engages, but dont claim to! These are available on Ebay at around 6.50 and are a good alternative to standard springs, being far better quality. d. Clutch Housing Clutch housing is steel or alloy with the clutch drum being steel. There a re two main types neither gives any noticeable difference in performance or durability as far as we have found. Both do the job just fine! i. Single Bearing The Front Sprocket is supported with 1 bearing between it and the clutch. Size/type of bearing is 6202z. ii. Twin Bearing This type is more like the true Blata bike set up it has an extra bearing on the outside of the sprocket that engages a nipple on the end of the front sprocket. The idea is that the clutch drum/sprocket axle is supported better. Bearing Size/type is; 6202z on the inside and 626z on the outside. 12
13. Tyres Tyres on these bikes are all very similar there are really only two types worthy of note, these are Dry and Wet Tyres. a. Sizes Front tyre Size; 90/65/6.5 Rear tyre Size; 110/50/6.5 b. Pressures Check individual tyre side wall for inflation recommendations. Average is 2.4kpa for smooth tarmac and 2.1kpa for rougher ground. But as long as they are within the stated pressure range on the tyre you will not have a problem. It is worth experimenting with pressures to find the best grip for your riding style. c. Dry Use Tyres Slick rubber tyres for use on tarmac, capable of gripping at an acute angle cornering at high speed. They allow maximum grip by having the maximum amount of rubber in contact with the ground. They have minimum grip on grass or stone chips etc. and care should be exercised in wet or slippy conditions. d. Wet Use Tyres As dry use tyres but have grooves in the rubber to allow water to be forced out the way of the rubber contacting the ground. These tyres will aid grip if you are on grass and are excellent on hard fine stone-chip terrain. Care must still be exercised in wet and slippy conditions. e. Puncture Repair Puncture repairs the same as car tyres where the puncture is filed out slightly then a rubber stopper is inserted from the inside of the tyre and glued in place. Pressure from the air in the tyre helps to keep it sealed. Kits to do this are available from most car supply shops or on Ebay. The tyre is removed by removing the wheel, deflating the tyre then unbolting the 3 bolts on the wheel spokes to split the rim in half. Refitting is the reversal of removal. f. Puncture Prevention It is of massive benefits to slime your tyres. Slime is a liquid that you put in your tyres, it stays liquid in the tyre and it seals punctures as they happen. It is available from most Pushbike shops and will cost around 8 for a bottle with enough for two tyres. This is well worth the money.
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14. Wheel Bearings There are two main types of bearing found on Chinese Mini Motos both the same size. a. Size Wheel Bearings on these bikes are 6000 series. b. Z Version 6000z or 6000zz bearing have a metal seal on the sides and are regarded as the norm c. RS Version 6000rs bearings are the same fit but have rubber seals; better for wet weather, but of no real benefit on these bikes.
15. Brakes Brakes used vary between manufacture and vary in quality, these are best put into two groups; early and later brakes. a. Early Brakes Still very common on new bikes, these brakes offer little adjustment other than cable adjustment. These are sufficient to slow/stop the small bikes. b. Later Brakes Later brakes offer more adjustment of the position of the calliper allowing them to be positioned so the pads dont wear out to fast and contact the disc evenly. There is also a lot less free play in the calliper mechanism and they are far more durable. c. Maximising Performance i. Settings Maximising performance will give you the edge over bikes with poor brake set up (Most!). Aim to get the pads lined up as best as possible with the disc. The pads should contact the disc at all times but offer little resistance unless the lever is pulled. If the disc is warped it can be re-straightened using two large adjustable spanners and bending the peak of the warp twice as far as it needs to go, this should leave it in a truer state. Lubricate all cable inners and a tough of grease on the moving part of the calliper will allow all to work smoothly and let the brake release grip most efficiently.
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15. Brakes Continued >>> ii. Levers Levers can be adjusted to suit the riders hand size. There is a small screw on the inside of the levers below where the cable protrudes, this screw when tightened will adjust where the lever rests and make it easier to reach/pull. It is necessary to adjust the cable tension when doing this. Levers may also be substituted for mountain bike V-Brake levers, this will increase brake feel and enhance your control over the bike while also feeling less clumsy. d. Ultimate Stopping Power For ultimate stopping power it is possible to fit Mountain Bike hydraulic disc brakes such as the hugely popular Hope Minis (in there smallest form). These brakes offer the same benefits to the Mini Moto that the bigger hydraulic brakes on super bikes offer. Durability, control, power, feel, strength and quality are at there best here, but expect to pay as much as your bike for a full set! Check out your local quality push bike shop for more info.
16. Head Set Bearings As with wheel bearings there are two main types of head set bearing. Neither is measurably better. a. Size Head set bearings are generally 6200 series bearings. b. Z Version These bearings have a metal seal on the sides. c. RS Version RS bearings have a rubber seal on the sides better at water prevention.
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17. Boost Bottle Boost Bottles give increased mid range and top end power, but may slightly hamper bottom end power in certain conditions. But is a modification that is definitely worth considering. The engine will rev up to 800rpm higher than with out one and audibly and noticeably smoother when revved up. a. Where it fits A Boost Bottle is a specific volume container with a pipe attached to it that runs to a hole drilled and tapped in the inlet manifold; all are air tight to a high pressure. b. What it Does The Boost Bottle keeps the air and fuel being sucked through the carb more constant as the reeds open and close and adds the extra drawn when closed to the fuel mix that is drawn through the carburettor normally when the engine is drawing in. c. How it Works There is tiny intermittent interval in the draw of fuel and air through the carburettor when the reeds close and there is no suction from the engine. Air flow slows, as does fuel draw from the jet in this split second every engine cycle. As the air in the manifold is drawn very quickly into the engine, the air in the bottle is also drawn into the engine creating a vacuum in the bottle. When the reeds close for their split second the cycle the vacuum in the bottle draws the fuel and air mixture from the carburettor keeping the flow more constant. Then when the reeds reopen the engine draws the premixed fuel/air from the bottle along with its normal draw through the carburettor creating a vacuum again for the cycle to repeat itself, and maximizing the fuel/air mix entering the crankcase. This gives you more power when the engine is revving. Different volumes of bottle will give power and torque benefits at different rev ranges. d. Variable Boost Bottles Variable boost bottles help overcome the problems experienced at low revs with this concept. They are made of rubber and the volume and vacuum pressure will change depending on the suction from the engine. These are rare and are not available specifically for the Mini Moto, although bikes do exist with them pinched from other applications.
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18. Juice Box A Juice box works on the same basic theory as a Boost Bottle. It is a tidy modification with impressive results in the mid and top range of power and response. a. What it Does The juice box keeps the air and fuel being sucked through the carb more constant as the reeds open and close and adds the extra drawn when closed to the fuel mix that is drawn through the carburettor normally when the engine is drawing in. b. Where it fits The juice box fits between the carburettor and the inlet manifold. It is a solid box with a hole into the inlet fuel/air channel. c. How it Works As the air in the manifold is drawn through the juice box section, the inlet manifold and the reeds into the crankcase, the air in the box drawn out, this creates a vacuum in the box. When the reeds close for their split second the engines cycle the vacuum in the box draws the fuel and air mixture from the carburettor into it keeping the flow through the carburettor more constant. Then when the reeds reopen the engine draws the premixed fuel/air from the box along with its normal draw through the carburettor creating a vacuum in the box again for the cycle to repeat itself. This maximizes the fuel/air mix entering the crankcase and keeps the flow through the carb more constant. This in turn adds to power and response.
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19. Nitrous Oxide a. Nitrous Oxide what is it? N2O Nitrous Oxide: A mixed gas containing Nitrous and Oxygen. NOS itself is an inert gas (Non combustible) but with fuel and ignition will enhance the burning properties of the fuel significantly. Nitrous oxide is used in hospitals (as mild pain relief when resetting broken bones, etc.), as a propellant or oxgenator in canned aerosol spray foods (Cream, etc.) or to aid combustion in a combustion engine. For this Documents purpose to make a Mini Moto into a rocket ship! Stored in high pressure cylinders ranging from 8 gram cartridges to bottles that weigh as much as I do! Care must be exercised when handling and using Nitrous as it can be accidentally injected through the skin as with all high pressure gases, any cylinders can, if not handled and stored correctly explode b. The Theory of Nitrous Oxide and the Petrol Engine Injecting nitrous into an engines air intake or fuel intake increases the available oxygen in the engines cylinders, thus enhancing the burning of fuel, this creates more power output. c. Explanation of the Kits currently available These Kits usually consist of a basic high pressure cylinder Trigger unit that holds the NOS cartridge and connects to a piece of hosing. NOS Cartridges are usually supplied with the Kits and can also be bought separately and are widely available. Usually the better Kits on offer supply an up-rated (enlarged) petrol jet for the carburettor normally a .68mm. These Systems simply spray Nitrous Oxide into the air intake of the bike to enhance the burning of the fuel mixture, by providing more oxygen. The Kits with the larger fuel jets also increase the fuel supply to the engine although this is constant where as the nitrous is only on demand. This type of nitrous injection can be bought in the USA for as little as 15! d. Where to get & How to make one of these Kits from 18! You need to buy a trigger unit to release the gas from the small cylinders. These can be found in most cycle shops and online for between 8 and 18 (You need the kind that accepts threadless cartridges.), and are used with CO2 to inflate bike tyres. The Nitrous Bottles can be bought from catering equipment suppliers or are easiest found on Ebay as Whipped cream Charges! These average 10 for 24 including postage. Then you simply need a length of plastic tubing long enough top reach from handle bar tip round your bike to the air filter unit and two connecting ends (One that will fit the trigger unit and one to connect to a hole drilled into the air box on your bike.) These can be bought from Hobby shops, DIY stores, Engineering suppliers, etc, for a few quid, although you can use, as I did, two valves from a bike inner-tube (with the inner removed), hose-clipped into the pipe at each end with 2 nuts to fit on one valve. You will also require >>> >>> a couple of large hose clips, cable ties or strong rubber band to attack the trigger unit to the handlebars. 18
e. How to fit these Nitrous Kits. Assemble the parts outlined before as in picture here. Attach the trigger unit to handle bars as using your preferred method ensuring that it is secure and that you have easy control over its operation and that of the bike (exact position will depend on the trigger unit you have bought and your method of attachment). Route the hose securely through your frame away from engine and exhaust to the airbox ensuring that it does not interrupt your bikes steering. Remove the airbox from the bike and drill a hole to correspond with the size of connector you have bought (or the bike tube valve). Attach the connector and refit the airbox, then attach the tubing. Your NOS system is now in place. You may need to make a spacer for the trigger unit to go below the N2O Charges, if this is the case ensure the charge will sit evenly on the top of it.
f. The Problems and Dangers you NEED to be aware of. To work correctly and most effectively Nitrous Oxide requires extra fuel to be added when the gas is being injected. These kits make no provision for that. It'll run lean when you hit the button. If you increase the fuel/air ratio to suit e.g. bigger fuel jet in carb, then you'll be running rich when you're not using the NOS. This means less power normally, as more fuel may not ignite properly without sufficient oxygen. Proper NOS systems have both a NOS solenoid and a fuel solenoid when you hit the button on say a 25hp system the fuel solenoid adds 25hp off fuel to keep the mixture correct. Running lean causes a high level of wear to the piston rings and cylinder surface, especially as the engine will reach far higher temperatures when injecting nitrous. You must be aware that your engine will run hot while injecting nitrous and will need to be allowed to cool shortly after using nitrous to avoid overheating. You must also acknowledge that a lot of wear will occur to your cylinder and piston rings during and for a short period after injecting nitrous due to the enhanced burning of the fuel/oil mix and the increased temperature temporarily leaving the cylinder inadequately lubricated. Another matter you must appreciate is that your bike has no rev limiter so it is possible to rev the engine to destruction if you use too much NOS (especially with larger jets in the carb) a few seconds of partial spray is sufficient to make a big difference in speed. 19
g. Overcoming Problems There is no wonder solution to make these Kits ideal its all about using them in moderation for a very short time and finding the compromise that works for you and wont do any noticeable harm to your engine. Below are some of the parts or things you can do to help your little engine when its got NOS. Put a little more oil in fuel mix than usual this will help reduce friction in the engine although will slightly affect power when NOS is not in use. Upgrade to larger Fuel Jets, .66mm is standard on better Mk2s but .64mm on earlier bikes. Also readily available are .68 .70 and .72 jets but again these may over fuel your bike in normal circumstances e.g. while NOS is not being applied. You may wish to instead fit an adjustable jet allowing you to fine tune further the fuel mix. Fit a Performance Air Filter to allow more oxygen to the engine when NOS is not in use this will help aid the burning of more fuel e.g. bigger jets installed. Use sparingly for very short bursts and not at times where your engine / drive-chain are under extreme stress. Allow your bike to cool for 5-10 minutes after using nitrous during a run. When first trying out a system, remember that you are experimenting the only way you will know when you have reached the engines limit is when you melt or explode it! It is a good idea to physically limit how far you can push the valve on the trigger until you are happy that its not going to melt/damage your engine. h. What effects it will have on your bike. (Good & Bad) BAD: As with all major engine modifications to achieve more power it is inevitable that more war and tear than normal will occur in the engine and transmission. If you are not careful over use will melt your engine and have to buy a new one. GOOD: Its going to be rapid! And get up hills with ease! i. Recommendations. Nitrous is amazing but it is advisable to use it sparingly to preserve engine life. Combine nitrous with other modifications and the results are amazing. It is not recommended Nitrous Oxide is used in older worn engines as if the piston rings/cylinder are heavily worn the increased force and pressure of ignition may cause ignition in the crankcase, carburettor or exhaust. Using nitrous with a rocket key fitted will increase the added power you get massively over a bike without a rocket key because the fuel ignites far faster and burns far better than it normal with Nitrous Oxide, so it is highly advantageous that the timing is advanced as far more power is put on the down stroke of the piston. A handy hint is the nitrous charges last far longer if you use them vertically not horizontally as the kits you buy suggest. This is regardless of the trigger unit as Gas comes out as a vapour not a liquid therefore is more controllable and less is wasted as overspray. There is a point where more nitrous spray is no advantage as the engine can only burn as much petrol as you can send in to it, you need to find the point on the trigger where it makes no difference to the power gain to go past doing this will save you a lot of wasted Nitrous Oxide. 20
20. Foot Pegs Foot pegs are a personal preference item. They can usually be adjusted to suit the individual proportions of the rider. a. Standard These are normally alloy and steel with a standard rubber grip on ribbed bar. b. Aftermarket Many variations of aftermarket pegs are available. Some like the commonly found alloy ones slip over instead of the rubber grip and secure with a grub screw. These are excellent but watch out for the length as you need ground clearance when the bike banks into a corner.
21. Forks Forks are usually designed to match frame type but may still have been randomly selected by the manufacturer from a parts list. a. Front Mount for Axle Usually found on bikes with a steeper head tube angle to keep steering feel correct. These forks can also be used to make the bikes less twitchy on corners etc. if they are put on a frame that came with type b forks on certain bikes. b. Rear Mount for Axle The most common fork style found. These forks can also make certain bikes that have type a forks corner quicker and become more agile. c. Brake Mounts i. What side? This will depend on your individual brake calliper and whether you are using a front mount axle fork backwards. There is no benefit to any particular side or if they mount ahead of or behind the fork leg. ii. Early Brakes Early parts will have a special plate that goes with the fork or frame to bolt the calliper on. Watch that you get this if buying because they are hard to buy on there own to match an existing frame or fork. iii. Later Brakes Later forks will have brakes that will mount directly onto welded mounts. These mounts will usually have the same spacing as the international standard found on Mountain Bikes.
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22. Handlebars Handle bars come in two types. The most common and generally preferred bars are the shorter ones that clamp on the fork leg and sit ahead on the leg. These are comfortable and controllable. The other type of bars found sit much wider as they are welded to their clamps on their end so sit to the outside of the fork. This means that they are also closer to the rider, sometimes of benefit. The type of bars you want will simply be personal preference.
23. Cut-Out Switch The cut out switch is usually mounted on the handle bars and allows the bike to be stopped by earthing the ignition system. a. Standard Earths the system by touching the wire connector to the handle bar when the switch is depressed. They are a relatively fragile switch and easy to break the red section where it clips on. b. Alternative A switch can be made up using a standard universal automotive switch that can be left on or off. This is done by running a small piece of wire from one side of the switch to any metal on the bike and securing it and connecting the other side to the kill switch wire from the coil.
24. Tooling & Instrumentation It is essential to have at least a basic tool kit for the Mini Motos as they require a high level of maintenance to keep them performing correctly and safely. a. Basic Tools The basic tool kit that comes with the bike will last about 2 minutes! It is advisable not to try and tighten Allen key bolts to much as the tools supplied will round off both themselves, and the bolt. Spanners will be of dubious fit also. b. Recommended Tool Kit It is recommended that you have the following tools of good quality. 17mm Spanner x2 14mm Spanner 13mm Spanner 10mm Spanner 8mm Spanner Medium Flat Head Screwdriver Stubby Philips or Pozidrive Screwdriver Full set of Allen Keys Pliers and Snips 22
24. Tooling & Instrumentation Continued >>> c. Advanced Tools and Instruments Cycle computer fitted to Moto and calibrated for wheel size. Tapping set Torque Wrench Rev Counter See in Spark Plug (advanced knowledge required) Automotive multi-meter (advanced knowledge required) Timing strobe (very advanced knowledge required)
25. Standard & Performance Parts Suppliers Many good parts (standard & performance) suppliers are out there. Here are a few places worth looking to buy your parts: www.minimotoworldspares.co.uk www.scottishminimotos.com/parts www.petrolscooters.co.uk www.stagmotorsport.co.uk www.ebay.co.uk
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Mini Moto Bike and Tuning Guide 47cc & 49cc

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