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FEATURING an EXCLUSIVE
LAKE COMO Review

MARCH 2009
I s s u e 72
£3.75

the NO.1 magazine for lovers of all things italian www.italymag.co.uk

people property holidays style culture food

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EDITOR’S PAGE

the NO.1 magazine for lovers of all things italian

‘benvenuti’, welcome!
J IT IS AN INTERESTING time to reflect on how the world’s
perception of Italy has turned full circle. Long considered the
economic eccentrics of Europe, the values that are inherently
world of a triple Michelin star chef to our readers’ prize
winning spring recipes.

We visit the Maremma area in Sothern Tuscany/Northern Lazio

Italian are rapidly being hailed as the great virtues of the new
world. Living for and enjoying life today whilst saving for
future rainy days means that the country is in far better
shape than many others. It also helps that the worst effects
of globalisation have passed the country by.
The strong sense of culture, food and identity that is
enforced with charm and style mean that change from the
outside is slow to make an impact. It is not unusual to deal P E T E R S H AW – EDITOR
with clients who welcome a phone call to tell them you have Tourism Reporter of the Year
sent an email to them, otherwise the email would sit unread
National Union of Italian
Journalists, 2007
indefinitely. It is encouraging to see McDonald’s sited by the
motorway, out of town, rather than in the centre of Lucca.
Faltering attempts at speaking the language are almost universally encouraged handbag and take a look at the beautiful and atmospheric Lake Como,
which is not the case in certain neighbouring countries. inspiration to many famous writers and composers, and a favoured location
The integrity of the cuisine comes from the belief that Italian food is the
best there is, and wonderment at why anyone would prefer another cuisine.
Simple food created from fresh seasonal ingredients: this is the philosophy
behind the creation of great dishes that are unsurpassed anywhere in the
world. As the skyscraper cities of Dubai and Las Vegas are being heavily
promoted as desirable and must-see destinations, I look forward to my trip
to Sicily next week and living life on a human scale.
where the malarial marshes have been reclaimed, and look at
the horsemen who drive the cattle, a way of life that goes
back generations. For those with a head for heights, a visit to
the Brenta Dolomites offers not only spectacular views above
the clouds but an unforgettable walking experience. If you
are visiting Venice, look out for Alex Hai the only female
Gondoliera: in this issue we tell her story. Heinz Beck,
Rome’s 3 star Michelin Chef, tells us the secrets of his
enormous success and how he became a chef as a result of
a toss of a coin! We move from one cultural star to another,
and interview the vivacious singer Alexia in Table Talk.
We chart the rise in success of the very fashionable Piatonna
for Hollywood film directors. Plus all our regular features, including advice
on working in Italy, our property for sale section continues to expand, and
we offer advice on how to purchase a property and show a selection of
properties for sale in various price ranges. If you are thinking of visiting Italy
in the near future or buying a property there, then do visit our redesigned
website at www.italymag.co.uk which is updated daily and has many
hundreds of pages of relevant information.

This issue of the magazine goes some way to showing the huge diversity Ciao e a presto,
of landscape, culture and cuisine that the country has to offer: from
mountains and lakes to marshy plains, from urban life to rural life. From the

www.italymag.co.uk
PUBLISHED BY POUNDBURY PUBLISHING LIMITED, E D I T O R Peter Shaw W EB C OMMUNIT Y R EL ATIONS
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Print and Origination: The Manson Group Limited, St Albans, Hertfordshire. Distributers: Seymour, 2 East Poultry Avenue, London EC1A 9PT. With thanks to: Vanessa Hill. Telephone: 0207 429 4000. International Sales: Through Poundbury Publishing Ltd: Contact Debbie Shorey.
Telephone: 01305 266360. Copyright: Poundbury Publishing Limited© 2007. All rights reserved. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or part without prior permission in writing. We welcome contributions that fit into the general theme of the magazine,
but only on condition that no irreplaceable material is sent to us. All such material is submitted, received and held entirely at the sender’s risk. Important Notice We do our best to ensure that information is accurate but must emphasise that we cannot accept
responsibility for mistakes and omissions. Opinions expressed are those of the authors; we shall endeavour to give an opportunity for alternative views in our letters column. All advertisers submit their own wording and we cannot, therefore, become involved in any
disputes between advertisers and their customers. Those responding to property notices should be aware that the magazine goes to press a month before publication and that properties may have been sold in the meantime. Competition entries: These may be made in
duplicate form, photocopied or hand-copied, as we realise you won’t want to cut the magazine. Correct entries will be drawn from a hat, or by some other equally random process on the stated date.

ITALY 5
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IN THIS ISSUE

the NO.1 magazine for lovers of all things italian 44

contents

22
places
12 s e n s e o f p l a c e
This stunning gallery is a favourite destination
among Milan's shoppers, with comfortable bars for
for those who are left carrying the bags…
14 i butteri
On her trip to the Maremma, once a malaria
ridden area of marshland, Christine Webb
meets Italy’s last traditional ranchers, i butteri
2 2 walking in the
Brenta Dolomites
Jane Gifford invites us on an unforgettable trek
through the dramatic pinnacles, turrets, rocky
outcrops and boulder-strewn slopes of
the Dolomites
arts & culture
9 letters
10 w h a t ’ s o n
Our guide to the most interesting
events in Italy for the month of March
11 i n s i g h t a n d n e w s
Recent interesting news items and
perspectives on Italian life
44 dual language
– Rome’s medicine man
Gem Cameron takes a look at Galen, one
of Ancient Rome’s most illustrious physicians,
whose pioneering medical work was to survive
43 unchallenged for over 1,400 years

6 ITALY

fi ti
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MARCH 2009/ISSUE 72

22

49
Milan 28
Subscriptions Tu r i n
Ve n i c e
For subscription details
see pages 5 and 65. Genoa

I
Bologna
38
7 1 Florence

T
Pisa

A
14

L
32
40

14

Y
Rome

Bari

Naples
Sardinia

32
36 Palermo

Sicily
food & drink
lifestyle
28 Alexandra Hai:
38 what’s up DOC?
Germaine Stafford examines the
classification systems of Italian wine
…gondoliera and asks if the quality of a wine is
Marc Millon enjoys a special excursion reflected in its label

28 with Venice’s only female gondoliera

and finds out what hurdles she had to
overcome to join this elite profession
39 table talk:
Alexia
Germaine Stafford questions well-known
32 Rome’s three-star Italians on their attitudes to food
Michelin Man

property
Jesper Storgaard Jensen catches up with
one of Italy’s most revered chefs, Heinz
Beck, and quizzes him on the various
skills a modern chef needs to become 49 Lake Como
a success

38
In our SPECIAL REVIEW SECTION,
46 bags of style we take a look at a much loved area
– the italian way that has been charming tourists and
Gilly Turney talks to designer Pia Tonna, stars alike for hundreds of years
who, when she decided to launch her
own handbag business, turned to Italy 63 the right price
to realise her dream Carla Passino shares advice on how to
determine the right price for your
71 business property and make a savvy investment
In our regular feature, Emma Bird looks
at becoming self-employed, becoming 67 the price of property
a bilingual secretary and teaching – p r o p e r t y u n d e r €14 0 K
in Florence Just what can you get for your money?
Carla Passino goes property shopping
74 and finally… with €140,000 in her pocket.

food & drink

Find out what she comes up with

67 the price of property

36 recipe competition – p r o p e r t y u n d e r €4 3 0 K
49 Ronald Ashri presents the winning recipes Just what can you get for your money?
of our Summer Food Lover’s event. Carla Passino goes property shopping
Congratulations to both winners, with €430,000 in her pocket.
Susan Reed and Seema Rao We take a look at her finds

ITALY 7
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8 ITALY
*LettersMAR Amend II:edit 22/1/09 11:49
£ £££
your letters
£ £
2 5 £££
£££
£
£ C£
as£
h£ e!
££
riz We welcome your letters and emails to italy magazine. Write to us at
P the address you’ll find on page 5 or email us at editor@italymag.co.uk
The winner of our prize letter will be receiving a cheque for £25 to splurge on some
lovely Italian wine or perhaps treat themselves to a beautiful book on Italy
PRIZE
LETTER
can’t live
without you
I honestly tried to give you up, with our
exchange rate being quite a nightmare at
the moment (South African Rand vs British
Pound). For four months I survived without
you – well, almost! But I finally surrendered,
and once again you are back in my life.
I find that I can’t wait for that big, brown
envelope in my post-box every month.
I enjoy every page, every picture –
being taken away to my favourite place,
indulging in wonderful food, and dreaming
of my very own villa. How can I thank you
for such a wonderful magazine? I dream
of visiting this amazing country, but until
then, I will learn more and more every
month of Italy, its culture and its people.
I hope to visit the ‘La Dolce Vita’ show in
London in March this year – one step
closer to Italy’s doorstep.
In the meantime, I’ll keep on dreaming.
Who knows, one day I might just own a
villa in Tuscany, bought via your property
section, and end up speaking Italian like
a local, thanks to your website.
Kind regards from Africa.
Lietta Swanepoel
Gosh, Lietta, this might just be our first
readers’ letter from South Africa. We’re
delighted to hear you enjoy Italy magazine
and that you are as enthusiastic about this
wonderful country as we are. I’m sure you
will love the Dolce Vita show, but in the
meantime, good luck with realising your
Italian dreams and we’ll continue to do
our best to be a difficult habit to break. ED.
Page 3
flights of fancy
As usual we fought over who was to read the Italy
magazine first... and my husband won this time!
However, I was interested to read an advertisement
for the Ipomea Club, Capo Vaticano, Tropea. This is
not an interest in the hotel as such, because we
have had properties in Calabria for the last 30 years,
but for the heading of the advertisement: ‘Be in
Calabria at the drop of a hat with new direct flights
to Lamezia Terme’. Popping back and forth quite
often and having Italian friends who come to visit
us on a regular basis, we naturally know all about
the great facility of being able to fly direct to
Lamezia and not going via Naples. However, I
wondered what this heading meant because ever
since October, Ryanair (who as far as I am aware
was the only English carrier to use this airport),
withdrew their flights to Lamezia! Knowing the
interest now in Calabria for the Brits, perhaps some
other enterprising airline has taken up this route, or
perhaps Ryanair have reviewed their policy, realised
their boo-boo and got their act together again. You
may be hopefully more in the ‘know’ than I am. I
also wanted you to be aware of this fact too for any
future articles you may have in the pipeline. Look
forward to hearing from you.
Mrs Jean Ireland
Thanks so much for your email Jean. We are
always grateful to eagle-eyed readers who spot
inconsistencies. Presently, Ryanair offer direct flights
to Lamezia from London Stanstead, Milan, Bologna
and Pisa and they look set to continue these
services. However, if we should hear of any change
in their schedule, we will be sure to pass the news
on to our readers. Meanwhile, hopefully this will
make life easier for guests lucky enough to join
you in your beautiful part of the world! ED.
coffee culture
After spending some enjoyable New Year time in
Florence, I was, as always, embarrassed by my
LETTERS
forays into the world of coffee ordering. Spending
time each morning in the same café, I would,
through gritted teeth, order my ‘caffè Americano
con latte freddo’, suffering the polite stares of the
locals, all the while cursing my habit of finding
Italian coffee served either too strong or too small
for my liking.
Therefore, you can imagine my delight when a
helpful barman came to my rescue on my
last morning when my usual order was met with a
slow shake of the head, ‘No’, and the barman in
question retreated to the coffee machine. Thinking
I had been barred for my heathen ways, I was
about to turn tail and run when he glanced up at
me and, smiling, said simply, ‘cappuccio’.
Two minutes and some quite woeful Italian on
my part later, I was happily drinking what I was
assured was a variation on the cappuccino, only
larger and not quite as strong, feeling more at
home with every sip I took, now that I had ditched
my dreaded Americano. The only hitch was, with
my new found cultural freedom, I spent the rest of
that day hopping from bar to bar ordering cappuccio
after cappuccio, leaving me sleepless and wild
eyed for the entire evening!
Such is the seemingly individual nature of each
establishment you visit in Italy, I wonder if the
cappuccio shares the same qualities from bar to bar?
Adam Wileman, Acaster Malbis, York, UK
Hi Adam, your email really made me smile, as I
have often encountered similar problems. It’s true,
size and strength varies from one establishment to
the next, but thankfully most Italian barmen are
keen to serve you your cappuccino, or cappuccio,
as you prefer it. (Though no doubt they are trained
to favour some great Platonic cappuccino ideal.)
For real caffè enthusiasts, Gambero Rosso publish-
es an annual guide named Bar d’Italia where they
indicate the bars and cafés serving what they
consider the country’s best caffès and cappuccinos.
Happy drinking… ED.
ITALY 9
_WhatsOnMAR:Layout 23/1/09 18:00
EVENTS GUIDE
whats on
whats on
COMPILED BY FELIX PETRELLI
Our essential guide to the most interesting events throughout Italy in
March, including useful contact information to help you plan your visit
Art
Until 20th April
Venice, Venezia
Venezia 1915-1918. Immagini dalla
città in Guerra. Ninety years after
the end of the First World War,
this exhibition illustrates the
unique experiences of Venice
during the conflict through
paintings, photographs and
original documents.
Location: Cassa di Risparmio di
Venezia, Campo San Luca
Web:
www.museiciviciveneziani.it
Until 1st May
Venice, Venezia
Ritrovare il Museo: Murano 1797-
1859 dalle collezioni del Museo
del Vetro. This is the first in the
Rediscovering Museums series
and covers the extraordinary yet
little known collection of early
19th-century glassware. The show
contains some 135 works that
chart the period after the fall of
the Venetian Republic when a few
master glassmakers introduced
innovative methods and
rediscovered techniques of the
past, paving the way to the
renaissance in the Murano glass
industry from the second half
of the 19th century.
Location: Museo del Vetro
Web:
www.museiciviciveneziani.it
13 t h M a rc h – Au g u s t 3 0 t h
Florence, Tuscany
Galileo. Images of the universe from
antiquity to the telescope. Explore
the extraordinary human and
intellectual adventure that has
given us our current vision of the
Universe. The exhibition shows
how the cosmos was envisioned
and represented from ancient
times right up to the Scientific
Revolution. This fascinating journey
begins with the mystic visions of
Egypt and Mesopotamia, moves
on to the Arabic contribution to
the science of astronomy and the
10 ITALY
Page 2
in March
Christian approach to the concept
of the universe, and ends with
the revolutionary theory devised
by Copernicus that inspired
Galileo and Johannes Kepler.
See scientific instruments, maps
of the heavens, drawings, paintings,
sculptures and manuscripts from
the world’s most prestigious
museums and libraries. Working
cosmological models specially
built for the exhibition alongside
the exhibits make for a truly
captivating show.
Location: Palazzo Strozzi
Web: www.palazzostrozzi.it
Music
4 t h – 15 t h M a rc h
Turin, Piedmont
L’italiana in Algeri. ‘The Italian girl
in Algiers’ was penned by Rossini
when he was only 21 and was
first performed in 1813. Bruno
Cappanella conducts Vivica
Genaux, Antonino Siragusa,
David Alegret, Lorenzo Regazzo
and the orchestra of the Teatro
Regio in one of Rossini’s most
popular operas.
Location: Teatro Regio
Web: www.teatroregio.torino.it
14 t h – 15 t h M a rc h
Venice, Venezia
Concerto Bruno Bartoletti. Bruno
Bartoletti conducts the orchestra
and choir of the Teatro la Fenice
in a performance of Benjamin
Britten’s War Requiem op. 66.
Bartoletti’s fame was built on
his 51 years at the Lyric Opera
of Chicago and he has come out
of retirement for this performance
of Britten’s stunning choral
masterpiece.
Location: Teatro La Fenice
Web: www.teatrolafenice.it
2 3 r d M a rc h
Palermo, Sicily
Larry Carlton Trio. Three times
Grammy winner Larry Carlton
brings his jazz fusion to Palermo.
Carlton has collaborated with
many big names over the course
of his 40 year career including
Joni Mitchell, Steely Dan, Michael
Jackson, John Lennon, Quincy
Jones and Linda Ronstadt to
name a few.
Location: Teatro Metropolitan
Web: www.teatrometropolitan.it
2 0 t h & 2 2 n d M a rc h
Palermo, Sicily
Faust. Internationally acclaimed
Tuscan tenor Andrea Bocelli is
Faust in the lavish five act opera
by Charles Gounod based loosely
on Goethe’s Faust.
Location: Teatro Massimo
Web: www.teatromassimo.it
31 s t M a rc h
Florence, Tuscany
Sinfonia n. 2 Resurrezione. Zubin
Mehta brings the Maggio
Musicale’s season to a close with
the monumental Symphony n. 2
Resurrection by Mahler. He
conducts Barbara Frittoli (soprano)
and Marjana Lipovšek (contralto)
and the orchestra and choir of
the Teatro.
Location: Teatro Maggio Musicale
Fiorentino
Web: www.maggiomusicale.it
Exhibitions
& Shows
6 t h – 8 t h M a rc h
Bologna, Emilia Romagna
Bologna Mineral Show. This show is
dedicated to gems and mineralogy
and attracts 300 exhibitors
and over 10,000 visitors to the
Villa Nasicae.
Location: Villa Nasicae
Web:
www.bolognamineralshow.com
6 t h – 15 t h M a rc h
Turin, Piedmont
Cioccola-Tò. One of the several
Italian fairs dedicated to chocolate,
this is one of the largest. This year
the theme is Women and
Chocolate and guest stars will
include leading female chefs,
writers of books about chocolate
and female artists who work
with chocolate.
Location: Piazza Vittorio Veneto
Web: www.cioccola-to.com
19 t h – 27 t h M a rc h
Rome, Lazio
Roma Independent Film Festival.
RIFF is a seven-day celebration of
new European and International
independent films. As well as
offering the chance for young
filmmakers to present their work
to the general public at film
screenings, RIFF offers a series
of special events including
retrospectives, seminars and
workshops on various aspects
of cinema, as well as exhibitions
and theatre, dance, fashion, and
concerts. The festival concludes
with an awards ceremony.
Location: Nuovo Cinema Aquila
Web: www.riff.it
Sport
14 t h M a rc h
Rome, Lazio
Rugby Sei Nazioni. The RBS Six
Nations Championship continues
into March when Italy meets
Wales at the Stadio Flaminio.
Location: Stadio Flaminio
Web: www.rbs6nations.com
10 t h M a rc h
Turin, Piedmont
UEFA Champions League. Juventus
play Chelsea in the first knockout
round of the UEFA Champions
League.
Location: Stadio Olimpico
Web: www.uefa.com
p11 Insite+News (overs)MAR:edit 22/1/09 11:51
insight
insight
Festa delle donne!
In Italy, every woman expects to be spoiled
on March 8th: here’s the reason why
O
WORDS: FELIX PETRELLI
N MARCH 8th, we celebrate the
Festa delle Donne, a day dedicated
to women. Officially this is
International Women’s Day, established in
recognition of women’s political, social and
economic achievements and formally sanctioned
and sponsored by the United Nations. All over
the world, different events are commemorated:
New York’s Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire of
1911 where 146 women lost their lives; Russian
women’s campaign against war in 1913 and
their strike for ‘bread and peace’ in 1917 after
the death of over two million Russian soldiers
in war. But we Italians put our own special spin
on the celebrations which tend to stray just a
little bit from the original themes of the day. Here,
the festival has almost become as important and
as commercial as Valentine’s Day or Mother’s
Day, and restaurants, clubs and bars put on
special nights to vie for the business of the ladies.
The day starts with husbands, fathers, sons
and even some employers giving the women in
their lives a bunch of bright yellow mimosa. In
truth, it isn’t actually mimosa but Acaia dealbata
or the silver wattle. The fragrant clouds of yellow
flowers are sold in truck loads throughout cities
to help out those not lucky enough to have a
home grown supply. There are special deals
throughout the day for women and some museums
and clubs waive entrance fees for the day.
A N i g h t o n T h e To w n
Then the women get together to celebrate, and
this is the girls’ night out of the year. Restaurants
fill up with groups of women, who have special
licence to do things they would not normally even
consider. Teetotallers drink, normally discreet
women pinch their male waiters’ bottoms and
go to clubs that put on strip shows a la
Chippendales especially for the feste delle donne.
One restaurant I know of advertises the night
as Sexy Camerieri – sexy waiters – male of course.
I only know about this because of my years
waitering while I was studying. If I hadn’t seen
the ‘exuberance’ of the donne on March 8th first
hand, I would not have believed it! And believe
me, my female compatriots can be very exuberant!
If you are visiting Italy in March this year, make
sure that you make a big deal of the special
women in your life.
Page 3
INSIGHT and CURRENT AFFAIRS
news roundup
We take a look at some topical issues and items that have
made the headlines in the popular press recently in Italy
QUARESIMA: If you come to Italy during
March, or if you are resident here, you will
undoubtedly hear a lot about Quaresima, not
only in church but also in daily life. What is
Quaresima ? It is the holy period of Lent, the
forty days between the first Sunday in March
(this year), until the Saturday before Easter
Day, during which, believers fast and prepare
themselves for the resurrection of Jesus Christ
at Easter. Until three or four decades ago,
Italians were very strict about not eating meat
and avoiding luxurious lunches during
Quaresima, though today’s habits are a little
more relaxed.
LA STERLINA: The Pound Sterling has greatly
depreciated against the Euro recently. Indeed,
today, the two currencies are more or less of
equal value. Italians haven’t forgotten that
before the introduction of the Euro, one Pound
Sterling was worth around 3,000 of the old
Italian Lire. It is therefore a shock over here to
learn from newspapers and TV news that
apparently the Gross Domestic Product per
person in the UK is now lower than in our
country, and that consequently, on paper,
Italians are now richer than the British. If Britain
eventually joins the Euro currency area, it will
be interesting to see whether this is indeed the
case when it comes to purchasing power in UK
and in Italy.
COUS COUS AND BYREK: Italians are
becoming more and more used to the different
cultural and traditional aspects of the various
ethnic groups that in the last ten years have
become integrated into Italian society. If
Chinese restaurants have been around for
years, Moroccan cous cous, Albanian pastries
called Byrek and Arab kebabs are becoming
common foods over here, and are now com-
peting with traditional maccheroni and pizza. If
you consider that half of the building compa-
nies in the region of Liguria are now run by
Albanians, and that more and more non-Italians
carry out express courier deliveries to Italian
homes, it’s obvious that Italy too is becoming a
multiethnic society.
WO R D S : D OT T. A N D R E A A N TO N I O N I
DRINKING AND DRIVING: Stricter laws
concerning drinking and driving in Italy have
arrived. The new Codice della Strada, Highway
Code, states that if you drink more than three
glasses of wine or more than one brandy, you will
not pass Police alcohol tests. Not only do you risk
having your driving license suspended for up to a
year, but your vehicle can also be confiscated and
sold by the State, depending on the judge’s deci-
sion on the gravity of the offence. This is some-
what of a cultural shock to Italians who were
traditionally a little careless when it came to drink-
ing and driving.
HEATING GAS: The cost of heating gas
over here is twice that of the UK. You will
realise this by reading the gas bill these days,
after a warm winter at home with the central
heating at full blast. As you probably remem-
ber, Italy imports all its oil and therefore
energy is more expensive here. If you live in
town, this is not so bad as you will be burning
town methane, but if you have a private gas
container in the countryside, you will be
burning expensive butane gas. As an alterna-
tive, try using your wood log burning stove,
with 100 kg (un quintale) of cut and deliv-
ered wood costing you only about Euro
13.50, that produces radiant heating rather
than convection heating.
TAX: If you have worked in Italy during 2008,
then this month you will receive a document
called the Cud (Certificazione Unificata
Dipendenti), that is to say, a document sent by
your employer which sums up income paid
and taxes retained at source for the financial
year 2008. If, instead, you were self employed,
you need to prepare all of your purchase and
sales invoices and prepare your Unico
Dichiarazione dei Redditi, equivalent to your
Tax Return in the UK. Your commercialista,
accountant, will not submit your return
before October, but you will have to pay tax in
June, so he will ask you to gather all the
necessary information this month, giving him
sufficient time to deal with the complex Italian
tax system.
ITALY 11
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PHOTOSPREAD

IMAGE : FOTOLIA © PIXACHI

a sense
of place
W HEN MOST FOLK talk
about going to the mall,
they're not referring to a place
like the Galleria Vittorio in
Milan, named after Vittorio
Emanuale II, the first king
of United Italy, and built by
architect Giuseppe Mengoni
in the 1870s. But even if you
don't buy anything at any of
the designer shops inside, it's
the perfect place to enjoy a
steaming hot coffee and some
people watching.

12 ITALY
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A SENSE OF PLACE

ITALY 13
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PLACE

i butteri
Once a malaria ridden area of marshland and
swamps, the Maremma is now the reign of
Italy’s last traditional ranchers

I
WORDS and IMAGES : CHRISTINE WEBB

Butteri… ee-boot-air-ee. I practiced saying the name over and
over. ‘No Cristina, i butteri … i butteri!’ said my friend, but still
I couldn’t quite get the stress on the right syllable or roll the
‘r’ enough. Here I was, getting myself ready to rise at dawn
to witness a time-honoured, almost sacred ritual of
men and I couldn’t get the name right.
An area of the southern part of Tuscany and
northern Lazio is called the Maremma. It is
a beautiful natural part of Italy with
excellent farmland of gentle hills gradually rolling to the sea. Evidence
of Etruscan strongholds and Roman municipium are here and there,
but from time to time, villages were periodically abandoned as an
enemy mightier than powerful armies drove the people into the hills
and left the land to droving cattlemen. Malaria decimated the popu-
lations whose numbers had swelled in good years, and the Spanish
called the area Maremma.
The cattlemen were expert horsemen who were
readily called upon by various armies for their

14 ITALY
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services as cavalry. When they returned from battle to resume tending
their herds, the cattlemen retained some of the accoutrements of
their mercenary life. While the horses and herds grew immune to the
affliction that devastated the community, the horsemen’s individuality
was at one with their steeds.
FIGHTING MALARIA
The area had many marshes, wetlands in the local dialect called
padule. When Tuscany eventually came under the rule of the House
of Lorraine in the 18th and 19th centuries, many public works saw
the cattlemen were expert Horsemen who were
readily called upon by various armies for their
services as cavalry
I BUTTERI
AND THE MAREMMA
the marshes drained, in the coastal areas pine trees
were planted and the malady that affected the peo-
ple was held at bay. At the end of the 19th century,
the preventative cure of quinine was discovered and
in the early 20th century, administration of the
treatment was aggressively pursued so that the area
became completely free from it. The Maremma
could now be safely repopulated, and new farming
methods changed it into the area we know today.
Gradually the semi-wild herds were replaced by
modern farming methods and the roll of the
Maremma horsemen contracted to managing merely five or six herds
in the wild coastal areas, now the Parco Regionale della Maremma,
100 square kilometres centred around the town of Alberese, only
15km south of Grosetto, the capital of the province. But where the
story of malaria ends, we come across another extraordinary, uniquely
Italian situation: that of the Azienda Regionale Agricola di Alberese.
The Agricultural Regional Company of Alberese is one of the
greater Italian regional companies. Situated in the heart of the
Maremma, it oversees an area of 4,600 hectares, of which 700 is of
pine and approximately 2,000 of forest, much of which is part of the
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PLACE

the patrimony of the province as the symbol of the

maremma rests on the shoulders of the butteri

16 ITALY
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it’s difficult to penetrate their world
Parco Regionale della Maremma. Another 50 hectares hold vineyards
growing the grapes that produce the DOC Morellino di Scansano
and another 300 hectares comprises olive groves with more than
80,000 trees where the cattle can range for some parts of the year.
Lastly, there are another 600 hectares of cultivated land growing
crops and 500 of natural pastures.
BALANCING TRICK
It is, in fact, a large farm. Where this takes a leap from the ordinary
is that the organisation of the estate has been continuous for 1,000
years, steadfastly preserving the natural balance of the
zone, biological farming practices and of course, i butteri,
the Maremma stockmen. The structure of the organization
I BUTTERI
AND THE MAREMMA
is such that it survived centuries of the feudal age, the mezzadria
system depicted so wonderfully in Bernardo Bertolucci’s film 1900,
and more remarkably the Fascist era, the war and the collapse of the
mezzadria. Now, in the era of globalization, it has re-established itself
in the important niche market of biologically produced and tradi-
tional foodstuffs that are now in demand more than ever.
So, at 7am, I am almost ready for the personification of this
remarkable agricultural history. The patrimony of the province as the
symbol of the Maremma rests on the shoulders of the butteri. If only
I could get their name right.
At Spergolaia, on the road to Marina di Alberese, are the head-
quarters and stables of the butteri. Straight backed men looking like
extras in a First World War movie move about the stables in
whispering silence. Their dress has an old fashioned utilitarian
appeal that reeks of masculinity. They are not a tourist
attraction but somewhat reluctantly allow themselves to be
photographed, yet again, as the symbol of their paese,
their country. It’s difficult to penetrate their world.
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PLACE

Theirs is the world of horse and man ... men with nature
and men of tradition. Think Australian stockmen por-
trayed by Hugh Jackman or Clint Eastwood’s High Plains
Drifter, but whatever you do don’t call them cowboys.

TRADITIONAL APPAREL
Their horses called Maremmano have been born here and
trained at their hand. The distinctive saddle is called a
bardella. The buttero’s attire is a short brimmed straw hat, a
waistcoat with the company logo, and boots and shin
pads to protect them from the cattle horns. Tightly rolled
behind the saddle is the pastràno, a linen coat that has
been rendered impermeable to the rain with beeswax.
Most importantly, the buttero carries the mazzarella.
This is made by each man from a long thin branch,
stripped of bark and polished for strength. At the
head, an antler has been welded to the wooden
branch to make a multipurpose tool for goading
cattle, opening gates, picking up anything the rider
may need, because, once mounted, the buttero
rarely leaves his steed.
There’s a secret rapport between the butteri and
their horses as they go about their day. In all weather,
they supervise the herds of cattle, recognising each
beast, when cows are ready to deliver. The
Maremmana cattle themselves are unique to Italy,
bred entirely in the wild. In 1935, the total popula-
tion of cattle was estimated at 274,000 head but by

the maremmana cattle themselves are

unique to italy, bred entirely in the wild

18 ITALY
_Maremma:edit 22/1/09 11:55 Page 7

I BUTTERI
AND THE MAREMMA

T
Florence
•

U
S
C
•

AN
Siena

UMBRIA

Y
Grosseto
•

M
•

AR
Alberese

EM
M
A
>> Visit www.italymag.co.uk/map-of-italy for greater map detail

d et a i l s
w h a t to s e e …

the 1960s, with the onset of land reform and mechanisation, they
faced extinction. Maremmana cows average 600kg, while the bulls
weigh in at a massive 900kg and measure 155cm at the withers. The
cows’ horns measure 120cm and are a splendid lyre-shape, while
the bulls’ are sickle-shape.
It is a rare and wonderful thing to see a way of life, nature and
animal breeds maintained without artifice… even if you can’t pro-
nounce the name.
Ee-boot-ter-ee! italy
LA MAREMMA
It is best to make an appointment through the Azienda Regionale
Agricola di Alberese (www.alberese.com) You may be lucky
enough to observe the butteri from a distance on the road to Marina
di Alberese. The butteri also participate in many of the historic
pageants in the town. In the town of Alberese, there is an outlet
for products of the Azienda including riding outfits.
Parco Regionale della Maremma (www.parco-maremma.it)
The best time to visit the Park in is in springtime, autumn and winter
(September 16 - June 14). During this part of the year, visits are free,
starting from 9:00am till an hour before dusk. All itineraries are open.
In addition, the park offers tours by horse, wagon, canoe and bicycle.
In the summer the beach is a natural magnet for sun lovers with free
access, but an entry/parking fee is charged. Picnics are restricted to
special areas to protect the wild boar who happily feed on discarded
refuse, and it is forbidden to feed the animals due to the possibility
of disease transmission or bite risk. It is best to start at one of the
two visitor’s centres.
Alberese Visitor Center: Via del Bersagliere, 7/9, Alberese. Open
daily, October 1 to March 22, 8am to 1.30pm; from March 23 to
September 30, 8am to 5p.m. Tel: (+39) 0564 407098
Visitor Centre and Talamone Aquarium: Via Nizza, 12, Telamone.
Open daily from September 1 to June 30, 8am to 1pm; from July 1
to August 31, 8am to midday, and from 5pm to 8pm.
Tel: (+39) 0564 887173 Fax: (+39) 0564 887173
f u r t h e r i n fo r m a t i o n
The official tourism site for the Maremma is
www.lamaremmafabene.it

where to stay
The area has many agriturismi, farm stays. Farm holidays, specialist
in green vacations: www.byfarmholidays.com
Hotel Rifugio Prategiano, Loc. Prategiano 45, 58026. This hotel
enjoys a magnificent position overlooking the delightful Tuscan
hillsides. Delicious local cuisine, the swimming pool and numerous
horseback excursions make this the ideal base for exploring the
Maremma countryside.
Tel: (+39) 0566 997700 Fax: (+39) 0566 997891
Email: info@prategiano.com Web: www.hotel-toscana-tuscany.com

nearest airports
ITA
Rome Fiumicino and Ciampino about 160k or 2 hours drive. LY 19
www.adr.it
Pisa Airport about 170k, also 2 hours drive. www.pisa-airport.com

For more information including news and weather visit

www.italymag.co.uk/tuscany

ITALY 19
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WALKING
WORDS and IMAGES : JANE GIFFORD

BrentaIn the Adamello-Brenta Natural Park,

although the weather in the valley
might be grim, a cable-car can lift
you above the clouds
IN THE

A N INVITATION to go trekking in the mountains can come

as a daunting prospect when accompanied by pictures of
bronzed athletic figures in designer climbing-gear suspended
above death-defying drops… so I confess to some apprehension when I
first looked from my balcony in Madonna di Campiglio at what should
have been a spectacular view of the famous rosy dawn lighting the peaks
of the Brenta Dolomites. Although right on my doorstep, the mountains
were barely visible through the rain-cloud (above).
Woken by bells, I rise quickly from the luxury of my bed at The
Hermitage to catch a fading glimpse of chocolate-brown cows being herded
through the forest. Silhouetted pines make a romantic if rather damp
impression on me, but the weather does not otherwise inspire any sense
of derring-do or desire to scale to lofty heights. Downstairs, a Jacuzzi,
Turkish bath and beautiful pool beckon, and as yet, nobody has men-
tioned the words cable and car to me.
The weather continues to be grim but we still make an early start. I
look down at my printout of our intended destination, Rifugio Tuckett,
y and see it is wet. It shows an isolated stone building in a lunar landscape

22 ITALY
_Dolomites:edit 22/1/09 18:54 Page 3
in the sky. The T now looks more like an F, but I am relieved at
least to be standing in the queue for the Grostè cable-car. We have
had the rules of mountain-walking firmly drummed into us: wear
sturdy boots and a water and windproof jacket; let people know
where you’re going; don’t leave the path or become separated from
the group; carry a map and fully-charged mobile phone. We are a
party of five: Deborah Dorigoni, our Trentino Rep, elegant in her
mountain gear; Roberto Manni our nonchalant mountain guide,
looking rather like Bruce Springstein; and we three English ‘Brenta
virgins’, two with dodgy knees, one dressed more for the city than
the mountains.
ABOVE THE CLOUDS
Dolomites
Excitement mounts as the cable-car whisks us up the mountain.
To our combined delight, we alight in bright sunshine and learn a
valuable lesson which works firmly in our favour for the rest of the
day: although the weather might be foul in the valley, the cable-car
will often lift you above the cloud. Of course, the opposite can also
be true, and the weather can change in moments. But Roberto
to walk on top of the dolomites is a fabulous
experience which I recommend to everyone,
however unfit
DOLOMITES
shrugs and says even this doesn’t matter because red stripes along
the path mean you can never lose your way. Veteran of expeditions
to K2 and Everest, he chats pleasantly as we walk and seems
genuinely pleased by our obvious pleasure in our surroundings.
After an hour or so, Deborah receives a worried call from the Tourist
Office in the valley below. ‘The weather is worse in Madonna di
Campiglio than it’s been for weeks. Are you OK?’ We are all in fine
spirits. Perhaps Roberto’s patience becomes a little stretched with
the umpteen photo stops we make along the way but he gives no
sign of it.
To walk on top of the Dolomites is a fabulous experience which
I recommend to everyone, however unfit. As long as you don’t
suffer from vertigo and can manage the cable-car, you can experience
the wonder of these mountain heights. Our chosen route will take
the whole day. It is boulder-strewn and steep in places. To us it
makes an exciting challenge, but really it is easy-going. After a
morning’s walking way above the tree-line and the clouds, we stop
for a simple lunch at Rifugio Tuckett before beginning our descent.
No cable-car any longer for us fledgling alpinisti. Still bathed in
ITALY 23
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PLACE

of marked trails to explore, including many mountain-biking trails

of varying difficulty. There are twelve hundred species of flora for
the keen botanist to discover. Gentians, wild crocus and edelweiss
abound, along with an estimated twenty-five million trees.
The Park is home to thousands of chamois and deer, in all,
fifty-one species of mammal, including the Alpine brown bear
Urus arctos. By 1996, the bear was, however, facing extinction.
Project ‘Life Ursus’ released ten bears in the park between 1999
and 2002. One wandered up into Germany and was shot.
Another had a narrow scrape with a motorist. The driver reported
it to the police and was considered far too drunk to be on the
road. Luckily for him, someone had heard of the project. Bear
and driver escaped unharmed. Today there are around thirty

the rain on the mountains which has provided the

romance of walking above the clouds now provides
us with gushing waterfalls

sunshine, we follow the path from Bocca di Tuckett into Vallesinella

through forest and meadow to Rifugio Casinei. Over a drink, we
decide that despite aching knees and the prospect of walking in
dense rain-cloud and fading light, we will nonetheless follow
Roberto’s suggestion and make a two hour detour to some waterfalls…
that’s how much we are enjoying our first day’s trekking. We are
hooked. Vallesinella falls are really springs issuing straight from the
rock, fed from above by rainwater and travelling through a network
of fractures and caves within the Dolomitic limestone. During the
winter freeze or in summer drought, they often disappear. Our timing
is perfect. The rain on the mountains which has provided the romance
of walking above the clouds now provides us with gushing waterfalls.

S P E C TAC U L A R S U R RO U N D I N G S
The Brenta Dolomites, a unique limestone landscape of dramatic
pinnacles, turrets, massive rocky outcrops and boulder-strewn
slopes, comprise the eastern part of the Parco Naturale Adamello-
Brenta. The Adamello-Presanella Massif to the west is a completely
contrasting granite terrain of lakes and weathered tors known as
‘The Kingdom of Water and Ice’. The Park’s remit is ‘to protect the
natural and environmental characteristics of the area; to promote
scientific study and the use of natural resources by the community;
and to safeguard and enhance the natural, cultural and human
resources of the territory’. It extends over 620 sq km with 700 km

24 ITALY
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DOLOMITES

bears happily roaming the Park but there is no

need to fear their presence. Even as a keen bear-
spotter, you are extremely unlikely to encounter
one. If you are lucky, you might come across signs
of their presence: tracks, raided beehives, perhaps
a half-eaten animal carcass. Farmers are compen-
sated for any lost stock and the draw of the project
as a tourist phenomenon far outweighs any costs.

STYLE SETTERS
The Brenta Dolomites took off as a fashionable destination for the
intrepid rich of Europe from the 1850s onwards. John Ball, who
founded The Alpine Club of London, was credited with establishing
the first safe route to the summits above Madonna di Campilglio
in 1864. Meanwhile, Quintino Sella (1827-1884) Italian
industrialist, scientist and politician, founded the Club
Alpino Italiano. However, the British continued to hog
the limelight – in particular Francis Fox Tuckett, (1834-
1913), a modest and exceptionally talented Quaker
businessman from Bristol who was a prodigious
Rifugio Casinei climber, mountaineer, explorer, inventor and

the brenta dolomites took off as a fashionable

destination for the intrepid rich of europe from
the 1850 s onwards

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PLACE

mapmaker. He refused the presidency of

the Alpine Club of London due, he said, to
business commitments, but he nonetheless
found time to bag 269 peak ascents and
the crossing of 687 mountain passes.
Tuckett and British geologist, Freshfield
were the first to climb Cima Brenta (below),
the highest peak in the Brenta Dolomites.
Popular with fellow Alpinists of all nationalities,
Tuckett received the Italian order of Knight of San Maurizio and
San Lazzaro from King Vittorio Emanuele II. Rifugio Tuckett was
opened as a hostel on 20th August 1906. A second refuge has
since been built next-door, dedicated to Quintino Sella.
Locals will tell you the main reason why they were not first to
be recorded making these early ascents is because they did not have
the money for such costly expeditions. During World War One,
known locally as the ‘White War of Adamello’, Italians suffered a far
harsher forced encounter with these mountains entrenched as soldiers
on the summits at heights between 2500m – 3500m. Vie ferrate,
metal ladders hammered into the sheer rock face, allowed them to
move about the gun emplacements. They suffered terrible losses in
brutally extreme exposed conditions. The iron ladders remain as a
reminder of their ordeal. They are still used, and you can follow
a ‘Journey of Remembrance’ along marked trails to military sites
within the Park.
LOCAL HEROES
Since these harsh times, the Italians have made a more triumphant
mark on their mountains, with men from the 1930s like dashing
pilot and World War Two hero Giorgio Graffer and Gino Corrà,
both climbers from Trentino, making daring and dangerous ascents
of many of the Brenta peaks; and Bruno Detassis, known as the
‘King of Brenta’, who opened up routes to the summits which, even
with today’s modern equipment, are still considered a challenge.
More recently, local hero Cesare Maestri from Madonna di Campliglio,
dubbed the ‘Spider of the Dolomites’, has grabbed the headlines. A
spirited and controversial figure in his youth, he has invented many
new climbing techniques.
Today, the majority of visitors to Madonna di Campiglio are
wealthy Italians, so there is no slacking on style in the region’s
hotels and restaurants. In winter, they ski. In summer, they explore.
For those with less of a head for heights, there is still plenty to do.
You could spend days just floating in the pool in the ‘Wellness

…the majority of visitors to madonna di campiglio

are wealthy italians, so there is no slacking on style
in the region’s hotels and restaurants

26 ITALY
_Dolomites:edit 22/1/09 18:54 Page 7
>> Visit www.italymag.co.uk/map-of-italy for location detail
d et a i l s
Centre’ at the Hermitage, admiring the tasteful décor and stunning
view. The hotel has been run by the Maffei family since 1899.
Situated on the edge of town, it’s a favourite hideaway for celebrities.
Juventus have their summer training ground close-by. Game is the
local speciality but there is still plenty to enjoy for those of a less
meaty persuasion. I love the ambience and inventiveness of the
menu at Il Gallo Cedrone, in Hotel Bertelli, especially their version
of the traditional dish cassunziei, (beetroot ravioli) served with
lavender-flower mousse and spinach salad.
LOCAL SPECIALITIES
Wines and cheeses from Trentino are generally excellent. A great
place to enjoy them is for Sunday lunch with the Tisi family at
Casa al Campo, a restaurant on an organic farm closeby in Val
Rendena (below) near Pinzolo. Everything served will be local,
most of it produce from the farm. It will be packed, so book first.
Pinzolo is an interesting old town famous for the sixteenth-
century fresco on the Church of San Vigilio, La Danza Macabra
(above) - a reminder from the Baschenis brothers that death comes
to us all, no matter how grand. The tower dates from the beginning
of the tenth century. Next-door, a World War One gun commemorates
those who fell in ‘The White War’. The people of Val Rendena and
Pinzolo have Celtic roots stretching back more than two thousand
years. Here they did not espouse the feudal system. This was the
domain of the knife-grinders. italy
DOLOMITES
i n fo r m a t i o n
DOLOMITES
Tourist Office Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena Via
Pradalago 4, Madonna di Campiglio. Tel: (+39) 0465 447 501 For a
fantastic range of maps, guides and all other information the following sites
are useful; www.campiglio.to www.pnab.it
www.dolomitibrentabike.it www.pinzolo.to
where to stay and eat
MOUNTAIN HOSTELS
Rather than walk down each day, plan your route to eat and stay overnight
in the mountains. Simple food and accommodation in stunning surround-
ings: Alimonta: Tel (+39) 0465 440366 – Boch: Tel (+39) 0465 440465
Brentei: Tel (+39) 0465 441244 – Casinei: Tel (+39) 0465 442708
Grostè-Graffer: Tel (+39) 0465 441358 – Lago delle Malghette:
Tel (+39) 0465 440814 – Lago Nambino : Tel (+39) 0465 441621
Tuckett: Tel (+39) 0465 441226 – Viviani Pradalago:
Tel (+39) 0465 441200
MADONNA DI CAMPIGLIO
Bio-hotel Hermitage & Restaurant, Stube Hermitage (4 star)
Via Castelletto Inferiore 69, Madonna di Campiglio. Unbeatable view
and Wellness Centre. First class accommodation with the Maffei family.
2003 awarded Qualità Parca for making minimal impact on the environment
in terms of recycling, building materials and energy consumption.
Tel: (+39) 0465 441558 Web: www.biohotelhermitage.it
Hotel Bertelli - Wellness Centre & La Taverna ‘Il Gallo Cedrone’
(4 star) Via Cima Tosa 80, Madonna di Campiglio. Fabulous food and
charming service. Excellent wine cellar. The welcome hors d’oeuvre is a feast
in itself. Hosted by the Masè family since the 1930s. Tel: (+39) 0465 441013
Web: www.hotelbertelli.it www.ilgallocedrone.it
Val Rendena & Pinzolo, Casa al Campo. Excellent local food and
accommodation with the Tisi family on a working organic farm in the
countryside. Tel: (+39) 0465 500290 Cell: (+39) 3385008438
Web: www.casalcampo.com
getting there
BY CAR: A4 from Milan - Verona, exit Brescia Est
A22 Bolzano – Modena, exit Trento Centro or Roverto Sud
BY TRAIN: FF.SS Trento- Brescia BY BUS: Links - Trento, Milano, Brescia
BY PLANE: Airports: Milano-Lintane, Milano-Malpensa, Bergamo-Orio al
Serio, Breschia-Montichiari, Verona-Villafranca, Venezia-Marco-Polo
fe s t i v a l s
Madonna di Campiglio: Compleanno dell’Imperatore.
The Emperor’s Birthday, 18th August: an historical revival of the Habsburg
Court. Pageantry, parades and music
Val Rendena: Dance Theatre Festival, 29 June – 6 July
Festival dei Antichi Sapori, late September
I Giorni dei Funghi 29 Aug–14 Sep. Guided walks with a mushroom expert.
Collect and identify mushrooms and learn to prepare and cook them at
Hotel Bertelli with chef Vinicio Tenni
ITALY 19
For more information including news and weather visit
www.italymag.co.uk/italy/place/trentino-alto-adige
ITALY 27
_Ital. Job_Gondoliera:*Ital. Job/Rome Cafe L/O 22/1/09 18:42 Page 2

ARTS AND CULTURE

WORDS : MARC MILLON

W
IMAGES : KIM MILLON

E ARE IN a gondola in Venice,

gliding along the back canals of
Dorsodoro, enjoying the silence,
the beauty of this watery city, far from the
madding crowds. From this unique waterside
perspective, houses back directly on to the
canals, and boats are moored against wooden
posts by rear entrances. Occasionally, we get
a glimpse into dark interiors, a salotto, a
kitchen, a Murano chandelier, and we catch
the occasional whiff of delicious aromas
emerging from barred windows in antici-
pation of the midday pranzo. This is a
privileged, insider’s, backstreet view of
Venice, a world away from the bustle
and craziness of the tourist spots of
Rialto and San Marco, where gondolas
travel in procession, complete with requisite
attendant Neapolitan crooner.

A WOMAN’S TOUCH
We have been transported to this other,
quieter world through the skill of our gon-
doliera, Alexandra Hai. We sit back in the
comfort of this amazingly sleek and unique
craft, sip glasses of Prosecco, relax and take
in the sights as Alex propels us. From the
Rio S. Travaso, we pass a squero, one of
Venice’s few remaining gondola boatyards,
and continue our smooth and undisturbed

Alexandra HAI:
… gondoliera
Enjoy a special
excursion with
Venice’s only female
gondoliera

28 ITALY
_Ital. Job_Gondoliera:*Ital. Job/Rome Cafe L/O
… the sculpted metal prow,
or ferro, missing the stone
building ahead by mere
millimetres…
journey. The canal is narrow and I can see
ahead that it bends at 90 degrees. Alex’s gon-
dola is nearly 11 metres long, and though it a
large and relatively heavy craft, at this
moment it also seems delicate and potentially
fragile. As we approach the bend, Alex gives
out a calm but forceful cry, announcing our
presence around the blind corner. She carries
on straight towards the wall in front of us,
then, noting the precise point to pivot her
craft, she leans heavily on the oar, which
turns the boat gracefully, the sculpted metal
prow, or ferro, missing the stone building
ahead by mere millimetres, the back end
swinging perfectly into line.
Corner negotiated, we continue on our
way up the Rio S. Barnaba. The canal is busier
here, with boats parked along either side, and
not much room in the middle of the passage.
Ahead, we see another gondola approaching
us, silent, gliding as swiftly towards us as we
are moving towards it. Alex does not hesitate,
continues to push the oar with an insistent,
rocking forward stroke, the Venetian form of
22/1/09 18:43 Page 3
rowing known as voga alla
veneziana. As the space between
the two craft diminishes, I am
aware of weight of the boat, its
travel as it glides forward with each
forceful push of the oar through
the smooth waters. How, I wonder,
ITALIAN JOB
– GONDOLIERI
would you stop such a craft if you had to, with
only a single oar? Alex is concentrating hard,
determined; her counterpart similarly does
not hesitate. The two boats are on an apparent
collision course, soon upon each other, as
each continues forward with the rhythmic,
silent, unrelenting push of their oars. Just as it
seems we are about inevitably to crash, both
gondolieri make what must be an almost
imperceptible adjustment: we glide past, oars
lifted like guns at ease, side virtually scraping
side – yet there is no contact.
It is a sublime moment of supreme skill,
confidence, bravery, (and perhaps a touch of
bravado), neither Alex nor her approaching,
now disappearing alter ego, exchange a word,
hardly a glance. Was it a dangerous game of
bluff, or simply the day-to-day rough-and-
tumble of gondolieri plying their trade skilfully
and expertly on the crowded canals of Venice?
PURPOSE BUILT
The gondola is a unique craft that evolved
over centuries from its origins as a means of
transport between the many islands out of
which Venice was formed. The need was for a
craft that could be manoeuvred by rowing,
not only through narrow canals, but also
underneath low bridges and in shallow
waters, able at the same time to cope with
strong tides and currents as well as with the
fickle and sometimes fierce winds that sweep
across the lagoon. Other uniquely Venetian
craft emerged, too – the sandolo, sanpierota,
and the mascareta, for example. But the gondola
reigns supreme, has become the very symbol
of the city.
In its heyday in the 17th century, it is esti-
mated that there were as many as 10,000
gondolas at work in the busy mercantile city.
At that time, the gondola was a private craft
and would have had a felse or cabin for pro-
tection from the elements as well as to hide
the identity of those within, handy especially
for those Casanovas travelling incognito to
some secret assignation or another. Since
1562, this unique craft has always been
painted black on account of sumptuary laws
designed to prevent ostentatious rivalry
between the noble families.
In the pecking order of Venetian society,
gondolieri held a special status, according to
Venetian historian Francesco da Mosto. They
were retained by the nobility, but were con-
ITALY 29
p30 FP:ADS 23/1/09 10:02 Page 1

30 ITALY
_Ital. Job_Gondoliera:*Ital. Job/Rome Cafe L/O
sidered, not as servants, rather as ‘lower rank-
ing friends and confidants’. The profession
was often handed down from father to son,
and the gondolieri were proud of their rowing
prowess as demonstrated in the city’s various
regattas. Many were also apparently quite lit-
erate, versed in Venetian poetry and art.
The modern gondola is still a hand-built
craft, measuring just under 11 metres in
length and weighing upwards of 600 kilo-
grams (the exact proportions vary from boat
to boat as, ideally, the craft is made to meas-
ure, to take into account the weight of the
gondoliere). Constructed from a variety of dif-
ferent types of wood, it is sleekly elegant and
beautiful, especially when decked out with its
final fittings, seats, cushions and other finery.
Each is unique and individual.
PERFECTLY UNBALANCED
One of the most striking features of the gon-
dola is that it is longitudinally asymmetrical
with a greater depth on its port side, so con-
structed so that the boat can follow a
straight course when rowed by propul-
sion from the starboard side only.
Indeed, the unique Venetian style of
rowing – voga alla veneziana – is virtual-
ly an art form in itself, and certainly a
skill that requires some years of dedica-
tion in order skilfully to be able to be in
control of this delicate craft on the
crowded and narrow canals of Venice.
When Alexandra Hai, a young
German woman, came to Venice, she,
like many others before her, fell in
love with the city and with the gondo-
la. Unlike most who visit or choose to make
Venice their home, she decided that she actu-
ally wanted to learn to master the mysteries
of how to row a gondola. Her dream was
eventually to become proficient enough to be
able to join the elite profession of gondolieri.
Today there are just over 400 gondolieri in
Venice, an exclusive and traditional male-
only profession that in many cases is handed
down from father to son. Some gondolieri can
trace their Venetian roots in the profession
back for literally centuries. The majority are
Venetian-born, so the difficulties for both a
foreigner as well as a female were consider-
able from the outset.
However, Alex found a sympathetic gondo-
liere who was willing to teach her the ropes.
22/1/09 11:53 Page 5
She dedicated herself over
a period of years to learning
this difficult art…
She dedicated herself over a period of years to
learning this difficult art, which involves not
only propelling the craft effectively, but also
mastering the intricacies of Venice’s myriad
network of canals, as well as the natural and
always varying conditions of tide and wind.
To gain proficiency, she worked for a lengthy
apprenticeship on a traghetto, rowing tourists
and residents across the Grand Canal as a
ferry service, a job that is poorly paid but in
which you learn how to deftly handle a gon-
dola within this always busy thoroughfare.
OLD BOYS’ CLUB
More difficult to negotiate still, was to find
her way through the arcane and closed poli-
tics that still dominate life in this watery and
ITALIAN JOB
– GONDOLIERI
anachronistic city. That Alex was not
welcomed into the guild of gondolieri with
open arms would be an understatement.
Perhaps, given the historical antecedents and
the tradition of the profession, it is not
surprising. Three times she took the practical
examination, manoeuvring her gondola
around the canals of Venice; three times she
was failed by the examiners.
Officials have publicly proclaimed that
Alex did not succeed simply because she wasn’t
good enough, that it had absolutely nothing
to do with her being a woman or a foreigner.
Yet anyone who steps foot in Alex’s gondola
will know with absolute certainty that this is
a person with supreme mastery of her craft and
with a tremendous knowledge of and respect
for the traditions and history of the gondola.
Not to be denied, Alex met the officials in
a court of law. She became something of a
cause cèlebre, and there have been articles of
support for her in the local newspapers.
Italian society is changing and women’s
rights are finally becoming an impor-
tant issue. By invoking an ancient by-
law, she eventually won the hard-
earned right to be able to ply her trade,
though only privately for guests who
stay as residents at a small group of
hotels with whom she works.
Though this does not entirely
redress the unfairness of the situation,
and though some gondolieri still resent
her presence on the waters and make
this more than clear, it is a solution of
sorts. Alex has achieved her dream.
And in any case, she far prefers working
in this manner as she not compelled to stand
on a quayside corner, soliciting for work:
‘Gondola, gondola!’ Rather, her clients can
book a gondola ride in advance with her
through the hotels, and she is able to give a
better and more relaxed, as well as a more
professional service.
A gondola ride in Venice should be one of
the highlights of any visit to this magnificent
watery city. A gondola excursion with Alex Hai
is a rare and very special experience indeed. italy
For more information, visit Incantesimo
Veneziano
Web: www.incantesimoveneziano.com
Email: alex@gondoliera.com
Tel: (+39) 347 8869753
ITALY 31
_Heinz Beck IV:*Ital. Job/Rome Cafe L/O 22/1/09
ARTS AND CULTURE
Heinz Beck drew lots with his brother to decide which of the two was to cook,
won the draw, and ended up becoming one of Europe’s most famous chefs
ROME’s
three-star…
***
MICHELIN Man
R
OME: As I contemplate the wonderful
view from the roof terrace of the
restaurant La Pergola (above), high
above Rome’s thousands of churches, monu-
ments and yellow-brown roof tops which
down below are lit by a golden autumn light,
I can’t help thinking that this spectacular
view must necessarily constitute a metaphor
for La Pergola’s gastronomic qualities. But I
must stop giving myself over to the panoramic
view: Heinz Beck, La Pergola’s world-famous
chef, is ready for our interview.
Lo chef, as Beck’s staff often call him with
a mixture of sympathy and awe, is not a tall
man. On the other hand, one quickly
understands that his personality more than
32 ITALY
11:59 Page 2
WORDS and IMAGES : JESPER STORGAARD JENSEN
FOOD IMAGES : LA PERGOLA
compensates for this. The look in his eyes is
direct, the flow of Italian words, pronounced
with a charming German accent, is fluent and
Beck’s charisma and willpower are especially
dynamic. And of course we shouldn’t forget
his skills. In 2008, for the third year running,
La Pergola was assigned three highly sought-
after Michelin stars, the only restaurant in
Rome to be so favoured. The well-known
Italian gastronomic guides, Gambero Rosso and
Guida Espresso, long ago discovered the German
chef’s qualities, and for the last three to four
years, La Pergola has constantly been in the
top three of Italy’s very best restaurants.
This is all the more fascinating when you
consider that Beck’s career actually started as
somewhat of a coincidence. At least, that’s
how the rumour goes: the two Beck brothers
drew lots to decide which one would choose
cooking as a profession, because in the Beck
family two chefs were considered one too
many. Heinz Beck laughs shyly and says:
‘Yes, it’s a true story. We drew, I won, and...
the rest is history.’.
CLIMBING THE RANKS
Before Heinz Beck came to Rome in 1994,
summoned by the Hotel Cavalieri Hilton’s
then manager, he had been gaining experience
in well-known restaurants in Germany and
Spain. At only 31 years of age, he became
head chef for a restaurant which did not
have any particular reputation. However,
hard and purposeful work paid off after four
years, when La Pergola in the 1998 edition
of the Michelin Guide was given its first star.
Star number two was obtained in 2001, and
after another five years, in 2006, Beck crowned
the achievement when his restaurant was given
the third star. What was his recipe for success?
‘Over time, I have introduced a modern
and light cuisine based on the Mediterranean
tradition. We then introduced a number of
new ingredients to create imaginative and
original dishes. Later, when I felt the kitchen
had been taken to a sufficiently high level, I
started to focus on the dining room and the
service. It was important to bring the service
up to the same level as the kitchen.’
_Heinz Beck IV:*Ital. Job/Rome Cafe L/O 22/1/09 11:59 Page 3

INTERVIEW
– HEINZ BECK

‘Over time I have introduced a modern

and light cuisine based on the
Mediterranean tradition’

ITALY 33
p34 :ADS 23/1/09 16:38 Page 1

34 ITALY
_Heinz Beck IV:*Ital. Job/Rome Cafe L/O 22/1/09
But the quality of the dining experience
and the food is one thing; the economic
part of restaurant administration is quite
another. Beck is very conscious of the connection
between these two parallel aspects. As he
says: ‘Some people might think: Ah, it’s easy
for Beck. His restaurant is in a hotel. He can
do what he wants to do, when it comes to
spending money. Unfortunately, it’s not true.
I’m a part of the hotel, and I have to make a
profit.’ But when one hears about La Pergola’s
activity level, one imagines the profits are
not trivial. Indeed, La Pergolas’s 55 seats
have been completely filled for the past nine
years, and to be sure, to get a seat in Rome’s
principal gastronomic temple, you need to
book something like three to five weeks ahead.
QUALITY AND AESTHETICS
Beck has long achieved international recognition
for the perfect interaction between his dishes’
taste, aroma, and the quality of the raw
materials on the one hand, and the restaurant’s
atmosphere, service and aesthetics on the
other. Harmony, innovation and lightness
are some of La Pergola’s key qualities, and
Beck sums up his philosophy like this: ‘The
genuine taste of the dishes, the quantity,
digestibility and healthfulness are all essential.
The importance of the taste is no surprise.
But the quantity and the interval between
two dishes are also extremely important.
The running time between two dishes must
11:59 Page 5
WHO
detailsIS HEINZ BECK?
Heinz Beck is German, born 1963.
Since 1994, he has been the Executive Chef
at restaurant La Pergola, Rome. Today he is
considered one of Europe’s leading chefs.
In the Michelin Guide, editions 2006 and
2007, La Pergola received three Michelin stars.
The restaurant is considered among the three
best in Italy.
Heinz Beck is the author of several books
on gastronomy and restaurant administration.
Several of his publications have received
important awards at the international festival for
gastronomic literature, ‘The Gourmand World
Cookbook Awards’.
In 2000, he was rewarded with the distinction
‘The Artist’s Gold Medal’, which is awarded by
Rome’s La Sapienza University. It was the first
time in the 30 years this distinction has been
awarded, that it was given to a chef.
In 2005, Heinz Beck was adviser to the
famous Italian pasta manufacturer De Cecco
during the development of a new ready-made
pasta sauce.
H O T E L A N D R E S TA U R A N T
Hotel Cavaliere Hilton, Via Cadiolo 101, Rome.
La Pergola, the restaurant of Hotel Cavaliere
Hilton, is situated on the hotel’s ninth floor.
Tel: (+39) 06 3509 2152
Web: www.cavalieri-hilton.it/indexx.html
To book a table: it is recommended to make
reservations three to five weeks in advance. For
weekend bookings (Fridays and Saturdays), it
might be necessary to book even further ahead.
Email: lapergolareservations.rome@hiltonint.com
Tel: (+39) 06 3509 2152
P R I C E S : 9-course menu: 195.00 Euro, without
wine; 6-course menu: 160.00 euro, without wine.
Further information on menus and prices can be
seen on Heinz Beck’s homepage:
www.heinzbeck.com
W I N E C E L L A R : La Pergola’s wine cellar
contains some 50,000 bottles, of which you’ll find
2,600 different labels. 60% of the wine stock is
Italian, 30% is French and the remaining 10% is
from other countries.
not be too long. If it is, our stomachs will
change from a receiving process to a digestive
process, and that’s not what we want. The
Alpha and Omega in our cuisine is lightness,
meaning the dishes’ digestibility.’
Another aspect, considered a Heinz Beck
trademark, is the quality of the raw materials,
which, according to Beck, means everything:
INTERVIEW
– HEINZ BECK
‘I can mention, as an example, that we
receive live Norwegian lobsters. Three hours
after their arrival, we kill them and prepare
them as lobster fillet. We never use deep-
frozen lobsters, because it’s impossible to
conserve their consistency and taste due to
the fact that their natural content of water
disappears during the process of deep freezing.
If there is one place where I never compromise,
it’s on the raw materials. They have to be of
prima qualità,’ says Beck with an adamant look.
When it comes to the typical Italian love
of beauty and aesthetics, one might tend to
think that these virtues would be less essential
to a pragmatic German. But when Beck
starts to gesticulate like an Italian and speak
enthusiastically about what he calls the
dishes’ ‘architecture’, one knows he is far
from being merely a pragmatic German:
‘The different ingredients must have the right
relationship with one another. The highest
ingredients must be at the back, and the
shadows on the plate must not be too pro-
nounced. Dark sauces should go under lighter
sauces. Aesthetics are, of course, important
too, but bear in mind the golden rule:
aesthetics can never replace taste,’ says Beck.
CHASING CLIENTS,
N OT S TA R S
And what does Beck think about the ‘stardom’
of many famous cooks, especially in the
Anglo-Saxon world? ‘Well, I’m not exactly in
favour of that way of looking at things. I like
to see my profession in a different way. I’m a
fairly humble person, but I also know that I
have something to say. Remember that the
work of a cook is very complex. You must
have aesthetic qualities, you must be creative,
you have to be productive every single day,
you have to let the press get to know you, you
must make a profit and so on. I think that
very few other professions are so complex.’
Time is running out, and only one more
question can be put to Beck who, during
our interview, is ever more frequently being
called to the kitchen. So I ask him teasingly
where he, with his extreme focus on quality,
takes his wife, when they want to wine and
dine? Beck laughs and shrugs his shoulders
in an almost shy manner: ‘Believe me, it’s
really all too seldom that I take my wife out.
In the last 13 years I have spent almost all
my evenings here at La Pergola.’ italy
ITALY 35
_Food Comp:*Ital. Job/Rome Cafe L/O 22/1/09 12:00 Page 2
ARTS AND CULTURE
RECIPE COMPETITION
The winning recipes of our Summer Food Lover’s event are presented below.
Congratulations to both winners, Susan Reed and Seema Rao
zucchini
The competition offered an impressive range of recipes and the final choice was certainly not an easy one. The theme was ‘Spring Pasta’
dishes, the idea being that few and light ingredients were required for wonderful, fresh and easy results.
pasta
I
by Susan Reed
N THE 1980s, I lived in Venice for five years, and very shortly
after arriving, I met a delightful old lady called Nai. The Italian
language was unfamiliar to me, but she spoke beautiful English
and took me under her wing, and with her tuition I was able to
understand quickly.
I spent many mornings with her as she taught me about the
Italian culture, the history and most of all, shopping and cooking.
All the food was bought in fresh on a daily basis. We would carry
empty litre bottles of wine to be filled at the local bottega, then
across the way to the supermarket for a litre bottle of grappa, and
to the tabaccheria for her cigarettes - ‘Esportazione’ (the same
brand that she had smoked since the war).
Just a few yards from her house in Via Garibaldi, the fruit and
vegetable boat would come up the canal early morning and stay
until 12:30. We would always go there to buy all the fresh produce
she would need for the carefully planned menu of the day. Amongst
my favourite vegetables were the carciofi already prepared, floating
in a bucket of water. These had to cooked almost immediately to
stop them from turning brown.
We had to be back in time for our third espresso of the day before
she would begin preparing a most wonderful gourmet meal for her
I N G R E D I E N T S
( fo r t w o p e o p l e )
175g of orechiette pasta
2 large zucchini
Clove of garlic
Olive oil
25g fresh Parmesan, grated
Handful chopped flat leaf parsley
½ lemon
Handful toasted pine nuts (optional)
Preparation
Slice the zucchini as thinly as possible (I use the flat side of my grater). In
a large frying pan, heat the olive oil with the garlic left whole (just to add
flavour), and fry the zucchini in small batches so they brown quickly.
When cooked, drain on kitchen paper to absorb the excess oil until they
all are done. Discard the garlic, sprinkle the zucchini with salt and freshly
ground pepper. Cook pasta, drain, add zucchini and pine nuts and stir
well. Add a squeeze of lemon juice, freshly grated Parmesan and finish
with chopped parsley. Serve.
36 ITALY
husband Mario who would come home from work for his lunch. We
ate at 1pm prompt every day, always il primo followed by a delicious
secondo accompanied by red wine and followed by another espresso.
Usually the grappa was reserved for after the evening meal.
I love everything Nai has cooked for me over the years and have
lifelong memories of times we spent together. My husband and I go
over to stay with her in Venice as often as we can. She still loves to
cook outstanding meals for us. Probably my favourite spring pasta
dish was the one she made with zucchini which I have adapted
slightly. It is so simple and yet delicious and satisfying.
gnocchi
Biography: I am married to Alan Reed who is a professional watercolour
artist and loves to paint scenes of Italy. We live in Northumberland and
I work alongside him in our business. We travel regularly to Italy,
America and the Middle East for painting commissions.
ramp
R
by Seema Rao
OMANCE is an experience that is hard to define. If you had
asked me when I was 16, I would no doubt have said that it
involved flowers, fancy dinners and jewellery (preferably
IMAGES COURTES Y OF FOTOLIA , MAIN IMAGE©C ARMEN S TEINER AND INSET, RIGHT ©IMAGES TALK
platinum). Much older now, I have come to the conclusion that romance
is complicated, tied to the moment, and, most importantly, ephemeral.
Spring is particularly romantic. After all, nature is in love at the
time: the trees are in bloom, the robins are laying their eggs. In
Cleveland, after a winter cooped up with a toddler, the arrival of
spring was particularly welcome. The spring market offered us so
many lovely and welcome additions to our diet - nettles, pea shoots,
morels and, of course, the wild spring leeks – ramps.
The Allium family is a sort of aphrodisiac - or more accurately,
they do promote camaraderie and pairing. Only one person in a
couple consuming garlic bread results in, well, no kissing. When
both consume, anything is possible.
When our friend told us that we could forage for ramps on their
wooded lot, we jumped at the chance. Like all good romantic expe-
riences, the sweetness and enjoyment of the event snuck up on us.
My husband and I arrived at the lot just before sunset, bag and
shovel in hand. The air was moist - it had rained that morning. On
the way down to the river, as we passed the newly blooming prim-
roses, we spoke. Nothing special, we just talked. When you spend
so much time talking about work, bills, errands, babies, just talking
is an incredibly romantic moment.
_Food Comp:*Ital. Job/Rome Cafe L/O 22/1/09 12:01 Page 3

RECIPE COMPETITION RESULTS

For my husband, Italian food is comforting and homey. The culinary prowess of
his Nonna lives on a full decade after her death

When we returned home with our

ramps, the sun was just about gone. For my
husband, Italian food is comforting and
homey. The culinary prowess of his Nonna
lives on a full decade after her death. The
best of the Italian kitchen profits from the
freshness and seasonality of the ingredients.
Our ramps were in the ground only half
an hour before we cooked them.
Homemade gnocchi is one of my
husband’s favourite meals as it quick,
filling, adaptable. Squash gnocchi with
sage, potato gnocchi with tomato sauce,
beet gnocchi with brown butter, ricotta
gnocchi with zucchini blossom... well, you
see the kind of wonderful cook that he is.
For the ramps, the goal was something that
didn’t overpower these spring treats. We
debated making a potato based gnocchi,
as potatoes and ramps are a classic, but we
went with ricotta, in order to achieve soft
pillowy dumplings. The ramp gnocchi were delicious—light and
fluffy. Sautéed ramp bulbs and bacon dressed our ramps. We ate
our dinner off one plate, snuggling on the couch. Ramps, spring
and Italian food equals romance.

I N G R E D I E N T S
( fo r t w o p e o p l e )

250g whole-milk ricotta cheese (that has been drained)

1 egg, beaten
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
½ cup finely chopped ramps
¾ cup flour

Preparation
Combine the ricotta, egg, Parmesan and chopped ramps. Add the
flour and work gently until a dough is formed. Adjust seasoning.
Let rest, roll into long snakes and then cut into bite-sized pieces. You
may roll it against a fork to get the characteristic indentations. Boil in
salted water until they come to the surface—watch not to over cook
them. Dress with bacon and sautéed ramp bulbs, or if vegetarian,
with ramp bulbs and pecorino cheese. italy

ITALY 37
 _Drink:edit 22/1/09 12:02 Page 2

ARTS AND CULTURE

Eustachio Cazzorla

Do Italy’s present
categories of wine
provide guarantees
to producers, to
consumers, or serve
only to muddy
already unclear
oenological waters?

W H AT ’ S U P
DOC? WO R D S : G E R M A I N E S TA F F O R D
I M AG E S : A N D R E A F E R R A I O L I a n d E U S TAC H I O C A Z Z O R L A

I NTERPRETING WINE LABELS has long been a

thorn in the side to many non professional wine
lovers, and this is especially true with Italian wines.
Partly due to the boutique nature of Italian wine
production and the sheer quantity of grape varieties
and types of wines, labels can be singularly unhelpful.
What often happens is that, perusing a label, you
find you have never heard of the producer, the grape
variety is unfamiliar and the wine itself it a complete
novelty. So what do you do? Check the classification,
naturally. Ideally, the classification system should
denote the quality of a wine (among other things),
helping consumers to choose wisely. However, many
consider that the present system has failed in its aim
of distinguishing superior wines, with some regarding
the system as overly complicated and strict, and others
insisting it is not strict enough. It is also important to
remember that Italy, more than a wine producing
country, is an amalgam of wine producing regions,
run by a series of argumentative and often disorganised
authorities with conflicting interests. But before
discussing the myriad difficulties, here’s a recap of
Italy’s four categories of wine:
Vino da Tavola : this supposedly covers Italy’s basic table
y wine category, whose only criteria is that it must be
produced somewhere in Italy. While it does indeed include
many low quality wines, there are also some gems to be
found under this classification, with several makers
choosing to avoid the bureaucracy of classification and
concentrating instead on the simple matter of making
wine. Just think, until 1994, Italy’s Super Tuscan Sassicaia
was classified as a Table Wine!
IGT – Indicazione Geografica Tipica : these are table
wines that are grown in specific geographical growing
regions. Originally a step up from simple table wines, this
classification increasingly covers quality wines whose pro-
ducers, for a variety of reasons, have opted out of the
DOC and DOCG classifications.
DOC – Denominazione di Origine Controllata :
the wines that fall under this title are even more strictly tied
to their region of provenance and are produced in growing
zones specified by the government. These wines are subject
to rules regarding grape varieties, vine pruning, aroma,
flavour, alcohol content, acidity and period of aging. Many
producers (and consumers) argue that in some cases the rules
are inadequate, especially regarding minimum yields, thus
consenting the inclusion of low quality mass produced wines.
Others argue the bureaucracy involved, especially in particular
terrains, dissuades many quality producers from participating.

38 ITALY
_Drink:edit 22/1/09 12:02 Page 3
DOCG - Denominazione di Origine Controllata e
Garantita : this is a super DOC category that is meant
to cover Italy’s very best wines. In addition to extremely
specific growing zones, DOCG wines generally have lower
yields and must pass strict chemical and taste evaluations
before being bottled. Wines in this category tend to be of
excellent quality, but don’t necessarily include many
of Italy’s very best bottles.
So now that it’s clear what the various classifications
are meant to cover, let’s take a look at why it ain’t
necessarily so…
OPTING OUT
A few years ago, I remember reading the bizarre story of
how, while most of the country’s vintners were fighting
tooth and nail to gain DOC and DOCP status, several
Italian producers were declassifying themselves in order
to be taken more seriously. The specified standards were, in
their opinion, at times so poor that they wanted nothing
to do with them, preferring instead to establish their
wine (the same wine that was previously DOC for example),
…instead of encouraging growers to aim for quality instead of
mere quantity, often the result was that quality producers were
being dragged down with the masses
WOI NL IE V CE L O
A SI LS I W
F I EC EAKT EI O
NND
under the name of the producer and with a declassified
IGT label. It was a catch-22 situation: instead of encour-
aging growers to aim for quality instead of mere quantity,
often the result was that quality producers were being
dragged down with the masses. Clearly not ideal.
Roberto Anselmi is widely regarded as one of Italy’s
leading white wine producers. In 2000, discouraged
by the low quality and general lack of ambition in the
Soave region, he took the bold decision of abandoning
the Soave DOC, and labelling his wines as IGT Veneto.
Anselmi is a quality oriented producer whose Guyot-
trained vines have extremely low yields compared to
the more typical pergola-trained vines in Soave which
produce frightening amounts of inferior wine, whence
Suave’s less than sparkling standing. Over the last
decade, he has slowly been helping the battered
wine reputation of the Veneto region to recover and
improving the perception of Italian wines worldwide.
He has also earned himself multiple Tre Bicchieri
classifications for his Anselmi wines, proof that IGT
wines can be just as good as bottles with superior
classifications.
T
ITALY 39
p40 FP_TTT Moneycorp:ADS 23/1/09 13:54 Page 1

40 ITALY
_Drink:edit 22/1/09 12:03 Page 5
EXTREME WINES
That’s not the only reason folks are opting out.
Winemakers Marisa Cuomo and Andrea Ferraioli of
Gran Furor Divina Costiera, producers of Fiorduva,
another Tre bicchieri wine, have spent the last fourteen
years doing their best to hold high the DOC flag with
their six DOC wines. But the bureaucracy involved in
adhering is fast becoming a problem. ‘This isn’t
Tuscany,’ says Andrea, ‘with huge expanses of vines
covering hectare upon hectare of land. Here on the
Amalfi Coast, we have a very different reality, with
all of our terraced vineyards belonging to different
families who have split their small vines between the
various family members, meaning that we have one
of the most divided wine territories in Italy. It’s an
administrative nightmare. We are keen to continue as
DOC, but can’t help thinking that every case should
be judged according to its particular characteristics
and problems so producers aren’t penalised unneces-
sarily by the difficulties of their land.’ And in fact,
Marisa and Andrea’s Gran Furor Divina
Costiera is included in the list of Vini
Estremi, an association that promotes
wines produced from vines found in
extreme geographical or climactic
winemaking conditions. On a final
note, Marisa comments that she believes
that the DOC system does offer more
guarantees to the consumer, but that
many of the present problems could be
resolved by ensuring the rules were fully
enforced and by carrying out more Marisa and Andrea
controls on winemakers.
Meanwhile, of course, many producers chose to opt
out of the classification systems simply to avoid the
stricter rulings, thus having more freedom to produce
and mix wines as they please, often in fact, to appeal
to a more ‘international’ taste. That is, producing wines
designed to please drinkers rather than producing wines
that are expressions of a particular terroir whose value
lies in their distinctiveness.
EXPERT OPINION
Eustachio Cazzorla, journalist, sommelier and lecturer
is the man I normally call when I’m confused about
wine, and this time he was quick to acknowledge my
doubts and confirm that even professionals have a
hard time separating the wheat from the chaff at
times. ‘There are tons of serious wine producers
doing their best to follow the stringent rules of the
classification system,’ he agrees, ‘but you also have
those who aim for a DOC or DOCP for other reasons:
We are keen to continue as DOC, but can’t halp thinking that every case should
be judged according to its particular characteristics and problems…
REW
S PI N
I GE HCI L’ SA S FS O
I FUI N
C AT TA II ON NS
to access EEC contributions, for example.’ He agrees
that many producers are distancing themselves from
the classifications, or have simply chosen never to par-
ticipate, and he gives a great example of a simple Vino
da Tavolo that exemplifies the difficulties inherent in
being guided purely by DOC/DOCG status: Maccone
di Angiuli, Primitivo di Acquaviva, produced at
Acquaviva inland of Bari – a gorgeously mature, fruity
wine with cinnamon and pepper that could easily be
a DOC, but is instead, a simple Table Wine. As
Eustachio puts it – ‘it’s as warm as an Amarone, has
perfectly velvety tannins with a bitter liquorice edge
that keeps the wine’s ample sugars under control - a
sincere wine from a sincere producer.’ But as Cazzorla
reminds me, the subject of wine classifications is about
to undergo important transformations: from 1st August
2009, new European Commission laws are due to come
into effect, removing Italy’s existing four tier classification
system and replacing it with a two tier system that will
unite all European wine producing
countries and, says the Commission,
simplify labels for consumers.
The EEC promises: ‘Simpler labelling
rules: in the interests of producers and
consumers, quality will be based on
protected geographical indications/
designations of origin. Well-established
traditional national quality-labelling
schemes will be kept, and simplified
labelling rules will allow EU wines to
be labelled for grape variety and
vintage.’ Predictably, the Italian wine
world is up in arms, horrified that their DOC and
DOCG wines might all be lumped together as DOP
after so much work to differentiate them. Though the
words ‘traditional national quality-labelling schemes
will be kept’, give the more optimistic reason for
hope. However, the wheels of bureaucracy are
notoriously slow…
Conclusion: don’t presume either price or
classification systems will lead you to the best wines.
It’s often a better idea to read private tasting votes, and be
advised by folks in the know. Calling Marc Millon! italy
For more on Eustachio Cazzorla and his musings,
visit: www.eusto.it For further information on
Costa d’Amalfi wines, visit: www.granfuror.it
Vini Estremi : www.viniestremi.com
EEC Reforms, wine sector:
http://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/capreform/wine/
index_en.htm
ITALY 41
p42 Dolce Vita:p038 23/1/09 09:40 Page 2

LA DOLCE VITA

Celebrate the best Italy has to

offer at the dazzling lifestyle event,
La Dolce Vita - taking place at
the Olympia in London from
March 26 - 29 2009.

F
eaturing fabulous Italian gourmet treats, designer fashion and
stylish home-ware, amazing holidays and luxury properties,
the event is now in its fifth year. It’s going to be bigger and
better than ever before, with several new exciting features.
Located in the central Piazza, ‘Il Gran Menu’ is a restaurant where
four renowned and award-winning chefs will be working together to
created the ultimate Italian menu that you will not find anywhere
else in the world. There’s also to be a fabulous Mercato delle Delizie,
where Italian producers, exclusively selected for the show, will be
selling a range of delicious food including oils, award-winning
pesto, cakes and rather unusual vegetables that are yet are not
available in the UK...until La Dolce Vita!
Hosted by Sarah Fraser and Richard Turnbull from Channel 4’s
The Great Italian Escape, The Property Match Bar is a lively and fun
environment allowing you to receive specialist advice from Italian
property experts in just a few minutes.
Find your Italy is an interactive attraction where visitors literally
pinpoint their favourite spot in Italy on an enormous map and can
then have the chance of winning a wonderful holiday there.
Standard tickets cost £14 if bought in advance, or £16 on the
door. The hotline is +44 08712 305 589. For more information,
please visit www.ladolcevitaevent.co.uk

42 ITALY
_TableTalkMAR:edit 22/1/09 12:04 Page 7

TABLE TALK
– ALEXIA

Table TALK…
with… ALEXIA
WO R D S : G E R M A I N E S TA F F O R D / I M AG E c o u r t e sy o f S T E FA N O G U I N DA N I

Alexia is a popular singer whose diminutive stature belies an immense vocal

talent and energy that infect fans the world over

What RELATIONSHIP do
you have WITH FOOD? culinar y ID You get some GOOD NEWS –
what do you CELEBRATE with ?
A love-hate relationship. I’m tiny, only Name:alexia Warm bread and Nutella …
1.53 metres tall, so have to be really careful
profession:
STRANGEST food you’ve
about what I eat. I love good food but try not singer
to eat too much of it…
birthplace:
la spezia EVER EATEN?
Is it possible to COMPARE Favourite Food: [
A meal I ate in an African restaurant in Paris –

WRITING A SONG pizza some kind of root vegetable steamed inside

to COOKING?
huge leaves …
Favourite wine:
none. I’m teetotal
Yes, both are hugely enjoyable and relaxing,
dislikes: various Can you SEDUCE someone at
the DINNER TABLE?
but a song last longer than a dinner … pork products like
cotichino, pig
Do you have any particular skin, etc It’s funny you should ask. When my husband and

MEMORIES related to I had only started dating, I took over his kitchen and

FOOD?
in 2002, and with millions of records sold
In the days running up to Christmas, my
mother would spend ages making ravioli and
tortellini. Now it wouldn’t be Christmas if
Winner of San Remo in 2003, runner up prepared a meal for him one evening when he came
home from a business trip. I made gnocchi with a
worldwide, Alexia continues to delight
her public with her own particular pop- quattro formaggi sauce. Very simple and very effective
rock-blues style. Her latest album was as he immediately declared I was the woman of
released this year and is entitled Alè.
his dreams! ...
For more information visit
www.alexifans.com

If I gave you some GINGER what

my sister and I didn’t join in the kitchen to
help her ...
would you DO with it?
Do you have to BE CAREFUL about I’d mix it with soy sauce, Chinese wine, onion, and garlic and use
what YOU EAT for YOUR VOICE? it to marinade some tuna fish. Then a sprinkling of sesame seeds
and straight into the pan. Delicious! …
Not really, but I have to make sure I’ve already digested
whatever I’ve eaten, as the stomach and the diaphragm are close
neighbours, and the digestive process can be tiring … Is there a BOOK or a FILM
about food that you like?
What FOODS would you TAKE WITH I love the film Chocolat, the way the main character’s sweetness
YOU on a DESERT ISLAND? wins everyone in the village over …
Sushi, rice, pizza and coffee …
A NIGHT with GEORGE CLOONEY or a
FAVOURITE CHEF or RESTAURANT? SLAP UP meal?
There are two places in Milan that I really like: La Bruschetta and I’d be too nervous to enjoy my time with George, so I’d prefer a
Paper Moon … meal with very close friends so I could relax and let my hair down …

ITALY 43
 p44-45 Dual LangMAR:edit 22/1/09 12:05 Page 2
DUAL LANGUAGE
ROME’S
MEDICINE MAN
This month, we examine the achievements of Galen, one of Ancient Rome’s
greatest physicians. Try reading the Italian version first then check with the
English version below
‘I
WORDS : GEM CAMERON
HAVE DONE as much for medicine as Trajan did for the Roman
Empire when he built the bridges and roads through Italy. It is I,
and I alone, who have revealed the true path of medicine. It must
be admitted that Hippocrates already staked out this path... He prepared the
way, but I have made it possible.’
These words are attributed to the Greek physician and philosopher
Galen whose works dominated the world of medicine for well over a
thousand years. Born in 129 AD in Pergamon, (an area in modern
Turkey), Galen originally studied philosophy and literature, but at the
age of 16, on the prompting of his father, his proposed career changed
to that of medicine. He studied at various cities within the then
Roman Empire: at Pergamon, at Smyrna and finally at Alexandria, the
most advanced medical centre of its time. Galen based his studies on
the best work of the Greek medical schools which had preceded his
time, while updating and refining theories on the basis of the findings
of his extensive experiments and observations. At the age of 33, Galen
moved to Rome. There he continued his studies, wrote prolifically,
lectured, debated, and gave extensive demonstrations on anatomy to
exhibit his medical expertise.
CUTTING EDGE
Galen regarded anatomy as the foundation of medical knowledge, and
since the dissection of human bodies was illegal under Roman Law,
practised the dissection of pigs, apes, dogs and other animals. This was
to prove both an advantage and a weakness. On the one hand, much
of Galen’s work was to prove groundbreaking: he was the first to
observe that muscles work in contracting pairs and that arteries carried
blood, and not air as had been commonly held till then; he gained
superior understanding of the structure of the heart, its valves and its
arteries; and, using experiments, was able to demonstrate paralysis
resulting from spinal cord severing. However, Galen was misled on
many accounts, especially concerning the internal organs. For
instance, he incorrectly assumed that structures found in animals
44 ITALY
would necessarily be found in humans, the rete mirabile, a plexus of
blood vessels at the base of the brain in ungulate animals for example,
and his descriptions and sketches of the human womb represent, to
all effects, that of the dog.
Like many of his contemporaries, Galen was a well prepared
surgeon whose tools included forceps, scalpels, catheters, bone
hooks and drills, cross-bladed scissors, needles, spatulas, cupping
vessels (for bloodletting), surgical saws, probes and specula. (Many
such instruments were uncovered in the House of the Surgeon at
Pompeii, so called thanks to the findings, and even in Roman Britain
and elsewhere in the Roman Empire.) From trepanation – drilling
holes in the skull to relieve brain pressure – and amputations, to
pioneering cataract operations and plastic surgery, Galen and his
fellow physicians were astonishingly ahead of their time. During
surgery, painkillers such as opium and scopolamine were used,
acetum (actually a more effective antiseptic that Joseph Lister’s car-
bolic acid) was used to wash and sterilise wounds, and instruments
were washed in boiling water. Interestingly, while the Romans had no
real idea of germs being related to disease, they practised many
techniques that killed germs, techniques that were not fully re-
embraced until millennia later.
S TA N D I N G THE TEST OF TIME
IMAGE COURTES Y OF FOTOLIA©MÀRCEL MOTA .
Despite many critical errors, Galen was the most authoritative
physician of his time, keeping up to 20 scribes to help put down in
writing his every finding. Dedicated to his profession and with firm
ethical beliefs – he held that physicians should learn to despise
money as the medical profession was incompatible with acting for
profit, Galen died around 216 AD, leaving behind him works that
were to go unchallenged for almost 1,400 years, overridden only by
the appearance of Andreas Vesalius and his work on anatomy
in 1543, and English doctor William Harvey’s work on blood circu-
lation in 1628. italy
p44-45 Dual LangMAR:edit 22/1/09 12:05 Page 3
IL MEDICO DI ROMA
Italian translation
T R A N S L AT I O N : D OT T. A N D R E A A N TO N I O N I
‘H o fatto tanto per la medicina, quanto Traiano ha fatto per
l’Impero Romano quando ha costruito ponti e strade in
tutta Italia. Sono io, e solo io, che ho rivelato la vera stra-
da della medicina. Bisogna riconoscere che Ippocrate aveva già indicato
la via… Egli ha spianato la strada, ma io l’ho resa praticabile’
Queste parole vengono attribuite al medico e filosofo greco
Galeno i cui lavori hanno dominato il mondo della medicina per
oltre mille anni. Nato nel 129 d.C. a Pergamone (una località
dell’attuale Turchia), Galeno inizialmente studiò filosofia e letter-
atura, ma all’età di 16 anni, su richiesta del padre, la sua carriera si
indirizzò verso la medicina. Studiò in varie città dell’allora Impero
Romano: a Pergamone, a Smyrna e poi ad Alessandria, il centro
medico più avanzato del suo tempo. Galeno basò i suoi studi sulle
migliori opere delle scuole mediche greche che avevano preceduto
la sua epoca, aggiornando e migliorando le teorie in base alle sue
numerose scoperte, esperimenti e osservazioni. A 33 anni, Galeno
si recò a Roma. Là continuò gli studi, scrisse molto, insegnò,
discusse e diede molte dimostrazioni di anatomia per mostrare le
sue conoscenze mediche.
A L L’AVA N G UA R D I A
Galeno considerava l’anatomia il fondamento della conoscenza
medica, e poiché la dissezione dei corpi umani era illegale per la
legge romana, praticava quella dei suini, delle api, dei cani e di
altri animali. Ciò costituiva sia un vantaggio che una carenza. Da
un lato, molto del lavoro di Galeno voleva provare nuove teorie:
fu il primo ad osservare il movimento dei muscoli in contrazione
binaria e che le arterie portano il sangue e non l’aria come si era
pensato fino a quel tempo; e attraverso esperimenti, poté
dimostrare come la paralisi risulti da danni alla colonna verte-
brale. Tuttavia, Galeno si è sbagliato su altre cose, specialmente
sugli organi interni. Per esempio, pensava erroneamente che le
strutture presenti negli animali si sarebbero necessariamente
trovate anche negli uomini, la ‘rete mirabile’, un plesso di vasi san-
ROME’S MEDICINE MAN
guigni localizzato alla base del cervello degli animali ungulati, per
esempio, e le sue descrizioni e disegni dell’ utero umano rappre-
sentano, a tutti gli effetti, quelli del cane.
Come molti dei suoi contemporanei, Galeno era un bravo
chirurgo, ed i suoi attrezzi includevano forcipi, scalpelli, cateteri,
uncini ossei e trapani, forbici a lame incrociate, aghi, spatole, cop-
pette per salassi, seghe, sonde, speculi (molti di questi strumenti
sono stati rinvenuti nella Casa del Chirurgo a Pompei – così
chiamata per i ritrovamenti, nella Gran Bretagna Romana e altrove
nell’Impero Romano). Dalla trapanazione – pratica di fori nel
cranio per rilevare la pressione cerebrale - alle amputazioni, dalle
prime operazioni di cataratta sino alla chirurgia plastica, Galeno e
i suoi medici erano sorprendentemente all’avanguardia per il loro
tempo. Negli interventi chirurgici venivano usati analgesici come
l’oppio e la scopolamina, l’aceto (un antisettico più efficace
dell’acido fenico di Joseph Lister) per lavare e sterilizzare le ferite
e gli strumenti venivano lavati in acqua bollente. Curiosamente,
mentre gli antichi Romani non sapevano che i germi erano colle-
gati all’infezione, loro usavano molte tecniche per uccidere
i germi, tecniche che in seguito non sono state riutilizzate per
un millennio.
SUPERANDO IL PASSAGGIO DEL TEMPO
Malgrado i molti errori, Galeno era il più autorevole medico del
suo tempo, tenendo testa fino a venti scribi che lo aiutavano a
mettere per iscritto ogni sua scoperta. Devoto alla sua professione
e dotati di saldi principi etici, pensava che i medici dovevano
imparare a disprezzare il denaro perchè la professione medica è
incompatibile con la ricerca del profitto. Galeno morì intorno al
216 d.C., lasciando dietro di sé opere che sarebbero rimaste immu-
tate per quasi 1,400 anni, superate solo dalla comparsa di Andreas
Vesalius e del suo lavoro sull’anatomia nel 1543 e del medico
inglese William Harvey con il suo lavoro sulla circolazione
sanguigna nel 1628. italy
ITALY 45
p40-41 Fashion:**FashionAPR L/O_P 22/1/09 12:05 Page 2

LIFESTYLE

B A G S OF
Carried by actresses, artists
and celebrities from the
music industry, the Piatonna
handbag is collected by
women the world over…

W
WO R D S : G I L LY T U R N E Y

HEN DESIGNER Pia Tonna decided

to launch her own handbag business,
it was to Italy she turned to realise her
dream. With its reputation for exquisite fashion
and fine craftsmanship, she knew this was the
place to produce the luxury hand-finished product
she envisaged.
style
So, in January 2004, she and her partner, Max,
left their jobs and life in London and headed for
Italy’s fashion capital, Milan, where they set up the
company’s headquarters in their two bedroom
apartment: the studio and showroom in the front
half, while they lived in the back half.
They soon adapted to – and adopted – the
Italian lifestyle and were not fazed by the com-
plexities and bureaucracy of starting a business
in a foreign country, albeit within the EU. With
a background in fashion marketing, Pia was
well qualified and prepared to cope with what-
ever problems came their way. Born in England years working in marketing, she realised she really
to an English mother and Maltese father, (the wanted to get back to her design roots. ‘Working at the
Piatonna logo is a reworking of the Maltese Chanel group gave me the experience of following
cross), and brought up in London, Pia (38) has products from initial concepts through to launch – so
worked for various select luxury brands includ- I knew about product development,’ she explained.
ing Paul Smith, where, as Head of International ‘When we launched Piatonna back in 2004, hand-
Marketing, she worked on everything from bags weren’t as big as they are now and the handbags
shop launches to fragrance licenses, and the that were around were repeat styles with poor attention
day-to-day business with Paul. Then she moved to detail, and more about making profits for the luxury
on to Chanel, working for Francoise Montenay, goods houses as opposed to making really interesting
its President, (‘a really wonderful and interest- products designed and made with passion.’
ing woman’), where she travelled to Paris on She was determined Piatonna would change that!
an almost weekly basis and New York several ‘I really like vintage things, purely because much more
times a year in her Marketing and Strategy went in to products 50 years ago, not just in the raw
capacity within the Chanel Group. materials used but also the amount of attention to
detail. Our bags have vintage details; for example,
BACK TO HER ROOTS every bag has a moiré lining with a cordone trim. It is
But something was missing. As a former design always a great pleasure to watch a person pick-up a
student at Worthing College of Art, now, after bag they like and then open it to discover an impecca-

46 ITALY
p40-41 Fashion:**FashionAPR L/O_P 22/1/09 12:05
bly finished interior. We receive emails from
customers saying how they have never had so many
compliments about their Piatonna handbag and
that when someone takes an interest they open up
the bag and show them the interiors.’
The handbags are all handmade in Arzano near
Naples, and their small collection of shoes, also all
handmade, in Castelfranco di Sotto near Pisa, (a full
shoe collection is due to launch this Autumn/Winter
09). The leathers, metal hardware, linings and materials
used are all Italian and most of the leathers are
finished in Tuscany. ‘We make in Italy because you
cannot fake the handmade feel of Italian products –
they make their products with pride and heart.’
FINISHING TOUCHES
Piatonna’s concept is to design and produce
impeccably made handbags and leather goods with
unusual leathers and unique shapes. Apart from the
moiré lining and vintage hand-finish cord trim in
each bag - an expensive process but it really adds
to the finished product - each season the colours of
the moiré and cordone are changed as well as the
leather, skin, and trim, so every collection is fresh
FRAMED IMAGES. THIS PAGE, CENTRE, COURTES Y OF CHRIS MOORE.
and modern. Plus three new shapes are introduced
to keep the collection moving forward; this season
they are Bohem (a versatile hand/shoulder/cross
body bag), Dove (an elongated origami style pleat
detail clutch bag, inspired by the wings of a dove,
and Pia’s favourite), and Peace (with references to
the natural shapes of a swan).
Both Pia and Max are very much ‘hands’-on’
and work almost non-stop on the business - ‘not
because we have to, but because we love what we
do!’ she enthuses. Max, (36), a former magazine
Advertising Director, manages the commercial side
while Pia concentrates on all of the design and
production. ‘We visit the manufacturing base at least
Page 3
PIA TONNA
three times per season and we are in daily contact
with our team there. We moved to Italy to work more
closely with our manufacturers, tanneries and suppli-
ers, to establish the relationships, learn the language
and to understand the culture. Our experience there
has fundamentally helped us grow the business.
‘The ‘product’ is central to what we do at Piatonna
and has to be absolutely perfect, so we are extremely
familiar with every element of the process, right from
the leather selection and working with the tanneries,
to developing exclusive designs, and deciding on the
packaging of the finished handbag. Every detail
is thought through’
Pia took the fashion world by storm with the
launch of her own label of very special handbags -
each maintains a subtle sassiness, found in the unex-
pected colour combination or contrast of texture. They
research and develop new leathers and often combine
three or more different leathers or skins on an individ-
ual handbag. ‘This alone is quite unusual,’ explains
Pia. ‘We pride ourselves on creating genuinely unique
handbags that have real stand out appeal, combined
with an attention to detail that is yet to be found in
any other handbags. Many elements such as texture,
colour, durability and finish are all considered whether
the leathers we are using are exotic python skins or
deer and nappa calf leathers.’
E V E R Y DAY C H A L L E N G E S
In those early days, and even now, the Italian way of
working can be exasperating! Pia and Max have kept the
company British, ‘but setting up simple things like inter-
net phone lines was a bit of a feat and even booking a
courier can take an inordinate amount of time. The
renowned Italian bureaucracy is alive and well!’ she
laughs. But they love the lifestyle. ‘Italians are very patriotic
and they put so much effort into everything they do
with very high standards. Even if you go to a roadside
café, the ham for your panini is carved right there in
front of you and the ingredients are all fresh. Packet
food does not exist. It’s just the same with the exacting
standards of handbag and shoe production….’
From just a small beginning they have seen their
business growth rocket with the explosion of the
handbag and accessories market. In their third season,
they went from a handful of stockists to over 60 in
23 countries. Their bags are now collected by devotees
season after season.
They have plans to open their first London flagship
store this year, and back in London, looking for the
right premises, their love-affair with Italy has not faded.
‘We adore Italy for its people, its culture and its breath-
taking scenery,’ says Pia. ‘We will go back there regularly
as that is where we will always manufacture. italy
www.piatonna.com
ITALY 47
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L AKE COMO_March 09

Lake Como
Review
W W W . I T A L Y M A G . C O . U K ITALY magazine
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LAKE COMO REVIEW

L A K E COMO Words by Germaine Stafford : Cover Image by Fotolia©John Hofboer

Lake Como is addictive: one trip here and you won’t be able to stay away…

W HEN YOU FIRST VISIT Lake Como, one of the

first things that strikes you is the vicinity of the
Alps. You expect the glittering expanses of lake,
the dense greenery that carpets the surrounding hills, and the
jumble of villages with their terracotta roofs that characterise
Liszt was convinced there was no place in the world more suited
for passionate love. And of course, it can have escaped no one’s
notice that George Clooney chose this spot to buy a villa.

the coast. But you don’t expect that dramatic backdrop of snow
capped mountains, and this is part of Lake Como’s charm.
Shaped like a great inverted Y, Lago di Como is an
immense body of water that extends for an impressive
50 km at the foot of the Alps, with Colico at the
northernmost point, Bellagio at the point the lake
splits into two at the centre, and the main towns of
Como and Lecco at the southern tips of the two
S O , Y O U ’ D L I K E T O S TAY ?
And while we’d all like to own a lakeside villa, not all of us
enjoy the likes of Mr. Clooney’s bank account. Thankfully,
however, there are many other options open to
‘It has so much to lesser mortals. Linda Travella, the director of the
Italian Property Specialists Casa Travella,
offer and you can launched Lake Como to the British public 22
find an amazing years ago. She says: ‘It has so much to offer and
you can find an amazing mixture of sophistication,
mixture of rural charm and stunning scenery. In 1994 I won
IMAGE, TOP, COURTES Y OF FOTOLIA©CELES TE-CLOCHARD.

arms. This is an area that was once covered in
glaciers, and it is the Adda River arriving from the
Swiss Alps that feeds Lake Como. It is one of
Europe’s largest and deepest lakes and undoubtedly
one of its most beautiful.
sophistication, rural
charm and
stunning scenery’
first prize for promoting tourism between Lake
Como and the UK. The Mayor of Como presented
me with a miniature silver ‘Lucia’ (traditional
boat) with my name inscribed on. The second
prize was given to the late Gianni Versace.

Unsurprisingly for such an attractive spot, it has long been
attracting esteemed visitors. Pliny the Elder and Pliny the
Younger were both born here, Julius Caesar named it Lario, and
Stendhal wrote that ‘nothing in the universe can compare to the
wonder of these hot summer days passed on this lake’. Flaubert
was moved by Como’s beauty, Shelly declared it voluptuous and
‘It is an excellent area to buy a property as it is central to many
other European cities and has a very good choice of apartments
in wonderful villas that grace the shoreline, or modern light
newly built apartments that are very good as an investment for
rental. If you are feeling really extravagant then you can look
for a villa close to Mr. Clooney! Como is also perfect for sports

ITALY magazine W W W . I T A L Y M A G . C O . U K
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LAKE COMO REVIEW

Given the lake’s splendid

surroundings, the area has enjoyed
an increase in couples deciding to
tie the knot here
enthusiasts: there is golf, skiing is not far from Monza and
football fans can go watch AC Milan (now with Beckham)
or Inter Milan. Or then again, how about some shopping
in Como town or Milan’s Via Monte Napoleone for some
designer boutiques?’

Travelling to Como is easy with Milan’s Malpensa and Linate

IMAGE,LEFT, COURTES Y OF FOTOLIA©LOUISE MCGILVIRAY.

airports close by, and Bergamo providing another option.
Linda Travella is known as an expert on the Italian property
market and has appeared in numerous TV programmes for BBC
and ITV: Including: A Place in the Sun, filmed on Lake Como
and I Want that House.
Web: www.casatravella.com www.casatravellapremier.com
Tel: 01322 660988

S AY I N G ‘ S I ’ O N C O M O
But it’s not only folks who want to stay in Lake Como who
flock here. Given the lake’s splendid surroundings, the area has
enjoyed an increase in couples deciding to tie the knot here.

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LAKE COMO REVIEW

ITALY magazine W W W . I T A L Y M A G . C O . U K
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LAKE COMO REVIEW

‘Each lake is quite unique, each

one has its own special atmosphere,
and nothing could be more elegant
than Lake Como…’
Wedding Specialists Blu Key Weddings was created by
Francesca and Jeremy who both have a real passion and love for
the Italian Lake Region. Francesca was born here and started
her career photographing weddings around the Italian Lakes
before moving to London. There she met Jeremy who has
worked for years in the hospitality industry, and together they
decided to develop a business that would not only allow their
expertise to grow but also ensure they could create bespoke
weddings within some of Italy’s most beautiful landscapes. Part
of what distinguishes Blu Key Weddings is their strong desire to
work with individual couples to create unique weddings, and
the Italian Lakes has become their specialized area to create
clients’ dream Italian wedding.

‘Creating a wedding in the Italian Lake Region is a truly unfor-

gettable experience simply because it’s one of the most beauti-
ful, enchanting landscapes in Northern Italy,’ says Jeremy. ‘Each
IMAGE, TOP, COURTES Y OF FOTOLIA©TROMBAX (LEFT) AND MAX DJ (TOP, RIGHT).

lake is quite unique, each one has its own special atmosphere,
and nothing could be more elegant than Lake Como, dotted
with picturesque little villages like Bellagio. And while we have
a wealth of experience organizing weddings, we believe very
much in the personal touch when dealing with our clients, and
strive to make every wedding exclusive and individual.’

Francesca continues: ‘From private villas, castellos and grand

luxury ‘Art Deco’ hotels to romantic restaurants tucked away on
the islands, we are sure that you will find the right setting for
your special Italian Lakes wedding day.’

Consultations are available in the UK or abroad and of course,

Blu Key Weddings manage every aspect of your wedding day
from the legal documentation to the entertainment, ensuring
your big day runs like a dream.
Web: www.bluekeyweddings.com

W W W . I T A L Y M A G . C O . U K ITALY magazine
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A TOUCH OF LUXURY
And if you don’t want to live here (or just plain can’t!), and aren’t
feeling brave enough to tie the knot, treat yourself to a once in a
lifetime stay at one of the area’s most stylish hotels. Since 1872, the
elegant Grand Hotel Serbelloni has attracted the most discerning
international travellers, including John F Kennedy and Winston
Churchill. As the only Bellagio hotel with a five star deluxe rating, it
consistently appears in lists of the world’s top fifty hotels. The hotel
enjoys a glorious location in the stunning town of Bellagio
considered by many to be the ‘pearl’ of the lake. It is quiet, away
from roads, and has its own private park to the rear and overlooks
the lake to the front. This is a venerable hotel with sumptuous
public rooms and a breathtaking setting on the lake. Attention
to detail, uncompromising quality, discreet personal service and
privacy are typical of the quality of service guests enjoy.
For three generations the hotel has been in the ownership of the
Bucher family, a dynasty in fine European hotellerie. An almost
unique example, in this day and age, of a luxury hotel still
managed by the family that owns it. ‘We want our guests to feel
the history that surrounds this property and to experience the
charm of a noble home,’ says owner Gianfranco Bucher. ‘I love
to consider clients as my own personal guests.’
W W W . I T A L Y M A G . C O . U K
LAKE COMO REVIEW
‘I love to consider clients as my own
personal guests’
DECADENT DINING
As you walk through the magnificent halls, the atmosphere of
the place reveals the particular style of this management, which
is based on good taste and personalised treatment. There are two
restaurants in the hotel overseen by the Chef Ettore Bocchia who
has been awarded a Michelin star for the quality of the food
served. Terrazza Serbelloni, the main dining restaurant, offers
magnificent cuisine on a terrace that overlooks Lake Como and
the flowering lakeside gardens of the hotel against a backdrop
of snow capped mountains, truly an unrivalled setting.
There are 73 rooms, 22 suites and 12 residence apartments within
the grounds of the hotel. All are appointed and furnished to a
high standard. As you would expect, there is also a wide range of
facilities for sport, recreation and physical well being. A lavish
spa, private beach, landing stage, indoor and outdoor swimming
ITALY magazine
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LAKE COMO REVIEW

But whatever brings you to this neck

of the world, make sure you take
time to visit the charming villages
that line the coast…
pools, squash and tennis courts ,and children’s play area are
all on site and there are golf and equestrian facilities nearby.

Open from April to November here is a unique opportunity

to enjoy a serene holiday in a corner of paradise.(Plus Milan

IMAGE,LEFT, COURTES Y OF FOTOLIA©DAVID PARIS.

is easily accessed for daytrips.)
www.villaserbelloni.com

But whatever brings you to this neck of the world, make sure
you take time to visit the charming villages that line the coast:
Cernobbio with its elegant shops and restaurants; Varenna with
its winding alleyways and the beautiful Bellagio with its old
world charm and presenting some of the most striking views
Italy has to offer. One thing is certain, however. Lake Como is
addictive: one trip here and you won’t be able to stay away… italy

ITALY magazine W W W . I T A L Y M A G . C O . U K
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58 ITALY
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PROPERTY SECTION

presents this month’s…

Property & Business

Guide
Our special section for those looking to buy,
rent, work or simply holiday in Italy

Page 63_ property buying tips – the right price

Carla Passino shares advice on how to
determine the right price for your property
and make a savvy investment

Page 67_ the price of property

Just what can you get for your money?
Carla Passino goes property shopping with
€140,000 in her pocket. Find out what she
comes up with

Page 69_ the price of property

Just what can you get for your money?
Carla Passino goes property shopping with
€430,000 in her pocket. we take a look
at her finds

Page 71_ business

In our regular feature, Emma Bird looks
at becoming self-employed, becoming
a bilingual secretary and teaching
in Florence

Page 72_ Classifieds

Page 74_ And Finally:
the burden of bureaucracy…
Paul Cleary discusses the ins and
outs of fighting Italy’s insidious tangle
of red tape
I M AG E CO U R T E S Y O F L A D O LC E V I TA .

ITALY 59

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PROPERTY

TOP PROPERTY buying tips…

the RIght PRICE

Carla Passino quizzes some experienced estate agents on how

to determine the right price for property and ensure you’re
making a savvy investment
WORDS: CARLA PASSINO

‘I N THE NICHE MARKET in which we operate—that for

traditional farmhouses and townhouses, restored or for
restoration, in attractive rural locations or in historic villages
and towns—the subjective nature of the buyer’s perception of
value is invariably a significant factor in determining price,’ states
metres, you can expect to pay a maximum of €900 per square
metre.’ For a main house of 250-400 square metres, expect to pay
a maximum of €450 per square metre—this is because ‘the larger
the house, the bigger the restoration cost, which deters many
buyers,’ Smith says. So, she adds, ‘for a 200 square metre unrestored
Roger Coombes of Cluttons Italy. house, which would make 4 bedrooms, a price circa 180,000
This market is small when compared to the mainstream Italian euros should be the maximum. Beat this and you are doing well.’
one, making it hard to extrapolate statistics on prices. ‘The detailed
information available from the Agenzia del Territorio (the Location, Location, Location…
government body responsible for providing statistics on all types Linda Travella of Casa Travella, advises buyers to be location-
of property transactions) has only a tenuous link with the type of wise when comparing property prices. ‘If you see a house with
property most foreign buyers are looking for,’ Coombes explains. an amazing view in a great location, and the same house without
‘Hence the reference to the subjective element and the need to a view in the same village but not such a good location, there
look at ‘our’ kind of properties on a case by case basis.’ will be a price differential for sure.’
That said, he adds, to assess the reasonableness of a property’s In Le Marche, for example, proximity to the sea and a good
asking price, it is worth conducting a research on the internet ‘to location with the right type of land can make a huge difference,
find a group of other properties on sale in the same area which according to Smith. ‘If a house is within 15 minutes of the coast
are broadly comparable in terms of size, character in a favoured location, this will increase the
and location. Many sites include the surface area in price per square metre by up to 20%. For
square metres. This enables a basic comparison of
‘… negotiate very houses within walking distance of the sea,
prices per square metre to be made.’ hard and look out for double the price. A good location, and land
containing vines and olive trees can add up
Size Matters
houses flagged with to 20 %.’
Cluttons ran a similar survey in the first half of ’Price Reduced’. Be aware, though, that coastal locations will
2008 on a small but representative sample of well carry a considerable premium. ‘In Le Marche,
restored farmhouses with pools and an average
This usually means expect to pay a maximum of €2,700 per square
of 6 bedrooms in Umbria and Tuscany, south of the owners are metre for anything within five minutes of the
Florence. It determined an average asking price of coast and/or with a sea view: here you are
about €3,900 per square metre. ‘On a similar
particularly keen
competing with the Italian holiday home market.’
sample of smaller farmhouses (3 to 4 bedrooms) to sell To get the best possible bargain, Smith adds,
on sales taking place in 2007 and 2008, the average ‘negotiate very hard and look out for houses
figure is lower at about €2,800 per square metre,’ says Coombes. flagged with ‘Price Reduced.’ This usually means the owners are
Magic Marche’s Jane Smith also recommends buyers become particularly keen to sell and will negotiate further. Of interest,
familiar with the Italian system of quoting prices per square Magic Marche has recently seen price reductions of up to 30%
metre, so it is easier to get some benchmarks. ‘Estate agents in for houses requiring a quick sale.’
Italy all quote the square metre of the house. Prices significantly And if you really want to make sure you are not overpaying,
below average price per square metre figures will represent ‘you can also opt to have a valuation carried out by a surveyor,’
fantastic value.’ says Travella. ‘You would have to have this done before you put
For example, in the Marche, where Smith operates, ‘for an in an offer and be prepared to write off this cost if you decide
unrestored farmhouse with a main house of up to 250 square not to go ahead.’ italy
.

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64 ITALY
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ITALY 65
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BACK ISSUES
Prices (inc P&P) £4.25 each or £9.99 for 3 (UK) £4.50 each or £10.99 for 3 (Europe and Ireland)
£5 each or £11.99 for 3 (Rest of World)

Issue 33 - Limited Issue 44 - Limited Issue 54 - Limited Issue 64

December 2005 November 2006 September 2007 July 08
South Tyrol, Siracusa Montagnola, Rome Bologna, Trani Siena Palio
Starting a business and Tuscany Property for Sale in... Special Review
and teaching English Property for Sale in... La Sila of Piedmont
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in...Valtaro & Valceno

Issue 34 - Limited Issue 46 - Limited Issue 55 Issue 65

January 2006 January 2007 October 2007 August 08
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66 ITALY
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PROPERTY

THE PRICE of PRoperty

What you can buy with… up to…

5140,000 WORDS: CARLA PASSINO

After the customary Christmas hibernation, the second home market is slowly waking up. The news from
international agents is that buyers are still keen on Italy, but have become choosier and more cautious.
They also look for competitive prices; UK buyers in particular need margins that will help compensate the
decrease in value of the sterling against the euro, while American buyers expect to find the same kind of
reductions they have seen in their home market.
While a massive decline in prices is unlikely - particularly for homes belonging to Italian vendors, who
traditionally prefer to take their property off the market rather than take a huge hit on price - sellers,
particularly non-Italian ones, are showing a greater degree of flexibility. Even though they may nominally
maintain their asking prices, they’ll often consider any realistic offer. And because the quality and quantity
of properties available for sale is still good, prospective purchasers have an opportunity to pick up some
interesting buys.

We have selected three: a flat to renovate, a renovated flat and a new development, all with a really
affordable price. Just one word of warning, though: a good dose of realism is crucial for purchasers too.
While this is a buyer’s market and owners are increasingly flexible, they are unlikely to entertain anything
that is dramatically lower than the asking price.

Renovated Flat in Roccantica, Lazio… 370,000

R OCCANTICA is true to its name, which means ancient hold in Italian. It is a beautiful medieval
village of crenellated towers and golden churches, perched high on the verdant hills of Sabina.
Here, in the borgo’s medieval heart, Immobiliare Polidori are selling a fully renovated flat on one level.
A few steps lead to the entrance door, which opens onto very Italian interiors that blend traditional
touches—cotto floors, a fireplace—with contemporary ones. The flat has one bedroom, a living room,
a breakfast kitchen, a bathroom and a balcony, plus its own cellar. The windows frame panoramic

570,000
views over the Sabina countryside. The asking price is €70,000.
For more details call (+39) 0765 576477 or visit www.immobiliarepolidori.it

Flat to renovate in Poggio Catino, Lazio… 3100,000

A LSO FOR SALE through Polidori Immobiliare is a large flat, this time in Poggio Catino, another pretty
Sabina town. The property, which is in need of renovation, is situated in the historic town centre. It has
a beautiful living room with fireplace and vaulted ceiling, three bedrooms, a kitchen, another small kitchen
area, two bathrooms and a balcony. It would be easily split into two flats, as it has two entrance doors.

5100,000
The asking price is €100,000.
For more details call (+39) 0765 576477 or visit www.immobiliarepolidori.it

Apartments in Tocco da Casauria, Abruzzo… from 3135,000

T HE HOME of the powerful Centerba liqueur, Tocco da Casauria is a pretty castle town at the foot
of the mount Morrone, in Abruzzo. In the town centre, a historic building is being renovated and
converted into three flats. Two of the units, which are sold fully furnished, will have private gardens,
while the third will take up the two top floors of the building. All will afford far-reaching views over
the Abruzzo countryside. The conversion will use contemporary techniques to bring the building’s rustic
feel back to life, with touches such as cotto floors, exposed brickwork, vaulted ceilings and wooden
beams. Prices start from €135,000 and go up to €220,000. italy
5135,000
For more details contact Chesterton International on 020 3040 8210 or visit international.chesterton.co.uk

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PROPERTY

THE PRICE of PRoperty

What you can buy with… up to…

5430,000
How far do €430,000 go in these days of wobbly economy? You could treat yourself to just over a month in
the cupola suite of Rome’s Westin Excelsior, one of the world’s most expensive hotel rooms; splash out on
two Ferrari F430s; or you could purchase a good-sized home by the beach or deep in the Italian countryside.
To put it in context, here are three properties in South, Central and Northern Italy that command that price
(or slightly less).
WORDS: CARLA PASSINO

Borgo ferri, Santa Caterina Ionio, Calabria… 3425,000

A N ANCIENT family estate, neat rows of vineyards and the turquoise crystal of the Ionian Sea.
All this is Borgo Ferri, a gated development in the village of Santa Caterina Ionio, in Calabria.
The seat of the Ferri family, the Borgo has been split by owner Barbara Ferri and her husband Alfred
Lenarciak to create a private golf community. Its 250 acres will be home to 150 properties set among
the estate’s gardens, olive trees and vineyards. Owners will have access to a nine-hole golf course (with
nine more holes planned for the future), swimming pool, tennis and beach club: the Borgo is located
on the shore of the Ionian Sea. Borgo Ferri offers several options, but three-bedroom villas with
gardens cost €425,000. There is a possibility of having a private pool built on the grounds at an
additional cost. Borgo Ferri is about 50 km from Lamezia Terme international airport.
Properties are for sale through Savills.
Tel: (+44) (0) 20 7016 3740 Web: www.savills.co.uk 5425,000
Mulino Felica, Comano, Tuscany… 3430,000

A N ANCIENT MILL that has been fully restored, Mulino Felice looks as if it’s come straight out of a
postcard. Casement windows framed by cornflower blue shutters open on a whitewashed façade
under a sloping roof. Inside, exposed beams and a brick fireplace give this three-bedroom home a rustic
charm. But the outdoors are what make is special. Behind this ancient mill, which has been fully restored,
tall trees cover a hill, looming large over Il Mulino’s gardens, olive grove, and vineyard. A courtyard with
vine pergola is the perfect place to soak up the views of the vineyard as you dine alfresco while a terrace
overlooks the stream that crosses the mill’s 2,300 square metres of land. Mulino Felice, which is one hour
and 15 minutes’ drive from Pisa airport, and just over one and a half hour’s drive from Genoa, is on the

5430,000
market at €430,000 with L’Architrave Immobiliare.
Tel: (+ 39) 0187 475543 Web: www.larchitrave.net

Period Apartment in Acqui Terme, Piedmont… 3420,000

A CREAM-WHITE 19th-century villa perches high on a hill near Acqui Terme, overlooking the mosaic
of greens that is the Piedmontese countryside. Here, Apta Domus are selling a huge apartment -
‘the size of a sizeable farmhouse,’ says a spokeswoman - with private access. The beautifully restored
interiors exude country elegance, with details such as exposed bricks, arched doorways and fireplaces.
The apartment, which is only one hour away from Genoa airport and just over an hour and a half from
Turin and Milan, is laid out maisonette-style, with living room and kitchen area downstairs, and two bedrooms
(both with Jacuzzi ensuite and one with a private living room) upstairs. ‘The apartment is situated in a
beautifully restored and prestigious period villa built during the 1800s, at the time when it was the fashion
for people to visit the thermal springs in places like Acqui Terme, which is nearby,’ says the Apta Domus
spokeswoman. ‘These areas are once more becoming very fashionable. And this apartment, unlike many

5420,000
others, has its own private garden.’ It is on the market for €420,000. italy
For more information, contact Apta Domus on (+44) (01)1628 474 513 or visit www.aptadomus.com.

ITALY 69
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Look out for the next issue of Dream Italian

Weddings & Honeymoons magazine

ON SALE from 12TH FEBRUARY at all leading newsagents

and by subscription on +44 (0) 1305 266360
70 ITALY
 _BusinessMAR:*Business JULY L_O P 22/1/09
IN BUSINESS…
In this month’s business section: becoming self-employed, becoming a
bilingual secreatry and teaching in Florence
a bilin-
o …
o w t
H BECOME
– Mario Berri continues in his role as career doctor. Mario is a change management
SELF-EMPLOYED
I N I TA LY – teams in the UK, Italy, Switzerland and Germany. He is the co-author of Starting a Business in
Admittedly, going it alone is scary, but in Italy,
you’ll be in good company. Freelancers and
small businesses make up the backbone of
the Italian economy. Here’s our guide:
G U I D E TO
BECOMING SELF-EMPLOYED …
1. Don’t ever underestimate the amount of
red tape and the time it takes to get
everything done. Work backwards from
when you plan to open and add on several
months for good measure. If you need to
have your qualifications officially translated
and recognised, be prepared to wait for
up to a year. It’s common practice to get
your authorisation on the very last possible
day. Be insistent and regularly ring up
il: the authorities to check how your case
‘
is progressing.
2. Ask around and find yourself a good com-
D ques-
mercialista. The right one will open your
an EU
Partita Iva for you and also keep you
to reply
informed of all your tax and social security
obligations. But beware, there are a lot of
commercialisti who tend to ignore their
small clients and just take their money.
3. If you intend to work with the public and
need premises, one of the first things you
need to do is the DIA – the dichiarazione
inizio attività. In English, that’s the official
notification that you’re starting a business.
The local comune will tell you which forms
you need to download from the internet
and fill in. Fill them in, take them back to
the council and wait 20 days. After which
you can officially open your doors.
4. Once you’ve opened, you’ll also need to
go to the Camera di Commercio (chamber
of commerce) offices to register. The forms
you need depend on what type of business
you’re setting up. It’s best to get there
as early in the morning as possible to
avoid the queues.
12:08 Page 3
BUSINESS
WORDS: EMMA BIRD
CAREER D oCTOR:
consultant in Italy. He is also a former senior manager with experience working in international
Italy: how to set up and run a successful business in the Bel Paese and is a consultant with
How To Italy (www.howtoitaly.typepad.com) and ABK International (www.abkinternational.biz)
Q
Hello Mario. Given that things in England look like they are going to go from bad
to worse in this credit crunch, I’m seriously thinking about moving to Italy. I’m a
bilingual (English and Italian) secretary in London and would like to do the same
job in an Italian city, possibly Rome or Florence. Could you tell me how to go about this and
what my salary expectations could be. Grazie mille.
Sarah Butcher (email)
Hi Sarah. Your prospects are excellent. You need to decide whether you want to work for a smaller
company in a less structured role, or for a large organisation. In the case of the former, look on
websites like www.wantedinrome.com In tourist areas, you will also find work as a secretary in
estate agencies dealing with foreign clientele. If working for large organisations is more your thing,
target the major job sites such as www.infojobs.it and recruitment agencies including www.quanta.com
and www.adactalavoro.it As for your salary, you are looking at between EUR 1,100 and EUR 1,800
( )
net per month.
useful sites
REAL LIFE: http://lavoro.corriere.it
Julia King, 24, moved to Florence two years ago straight after – job opportunities via national
newspaper Il Corriere della Sera
university. She teaches English to adults and teenagers.
www.sinterim.it
‘The fact that I’m here and not teaching hormonal teenagers – a temping agency in Italy
in a British comprehensive is all down to a guy I met in a bar
on a night out in London. When I was in my final year of university, I wasn’t sure what I wanted
to do with my life and, for a long time, I was toying with the idea of doing a PGCE, as a teaching
qualification always gives you something to fall back on. I was on the verge of applying but meeting
David changed my mind. He was so full of energy and clearly loved the life he was leading in
Barcelona that it made me see that there was more to teaching than ramming Chaucer or DH
Lawrence down the necks of sullen 15-year-olds.
From then on, everything happened at breakneck speed. I applied and got a place on a month-long
TEFL course to teach English to foreigners. Once it had finished, I started looking for jobs. The
world was my oyster because I didn’t have any preconceptions of where I wanted to go. I was
thinking about heading somewhere in South America but ended up in Italy because it was the first
job I was offered and, of course, it meant I was nearer my friends and family.
Looking back, I feel really sorry for my first students as I didn’t have much idea how to teach. I
just tried to be friendly and helpful and muddle through as best as I could. These days, it’s a totally
different story. I love teaching and I can’t believe I’d ever have considered anything else. Yes, the
pay is bad and I certainly couldn’t afford to live on these wages for ever, but seeing the joy on a
student’s face when they get a sentence construction right or finally manage to pronounce an English
word they’d been struggling with is worth it.
’
When I first moved here, I would look in the mirror and see a shy, 22-year-old English girl not
quite sure where she fitted into the world. Now that Julia is gone and I see Giulia, a confident
24-year-old who is slowly adapting to the Florentine way of life. I plan to stay for a while yet.’
If you are interested in appearing in the Real Life section, please email: editor@italymag.co.uk
If you have a question for our Career Doctor, please email us at questions@italymag.co.uk
stating your nationality and whether or not you have an EU passport or right to work in Italy.
We regret that Mario Berri is unable to reply to you personally
ITALY 71
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p74 And FinallyMAR:*And Finally JULY L/O_P 23/1/09 09:37 Page 2
AND FINALLY...
Paul Cleary, pictured left with wife Charlie and daughters
Sofia Rose and Cecily Grace, attempts to untangle the knots
caused by Italy’s red tape
the burden of…
bureaucracy
I HAVE LIVED in Italy now for nearly a decade, and I know
that the United Kingdom has changed hugely in that time.
Where once the place seemed to run relatively smoothly,
it now appears festooned by that godfather of hindrances:
bureaucracy. At every level, new measures and systems have
been devised, thought about for five minutes, and then
implemented on the general public, with predictable results
and an inevitable increase in frustration and decrease in
patience. Does anybody actually understand the new
directives? Actually, yes, but probably only half a dozen people
in the country could really tell you what on earth was going
on! But whereas Blighty is blighted by shiny, freshly made red
tape, poor old Italy suffers a comedy of errors going back for
decades. I feel it safe to say that my straniero (foreigner’s) point
of view is widely held by the entire population of Italy, dogged
as they are and always have been by a constant change of laws
with every new government coming to power. As we all know,
Italy has had more than its fair share of governments since
World War II, so the resultant quagmire of rules and regulations
is simply stifling.
THE ART OF AMBIGUITY
The Italian love of form-filling and paperwork is so all pervasive,
that you sometimes wonder whether any of the millions of
archives up and down the country have ever been committed
to digital memory. To date I have not heard of any low-grade
civil servants in Italy losing their jobs and facing treason
charges for leaving a CD of military secrets on the train seat,
for example. Involved, as I am, in real estate here in Italy, I
have had the dubious pleasure of consistent contact with
bureaucracy at all levels. I have learned over the years to avoid
giving definitive answers to clients, where possible, to questions
that will involve permissions being granted or how long
something will take, for example. I have registered several com-
promessi (preliminary agreements of sale) this year, and each
time I go to the relevant office I think I have everything I need
to complete a smooth, fretless transaction. Not once have I
managed it! Either I have the wrong stamps to put on it, or the
rules changed since the last one I did, so it now costs Y and I
only paid X, or something similarly banal. This constant
evolution of rules and regulations makes it difficult even for
74 ITALY
the professionals to advise their clients. In a
recent final contract of sale, a solicitor was on the
verge of not signing on behalf of his client, due to a
missing document of relatively minor consequence.
Upon some research, the Notary conducting the sale
informed him that the law requiring said document
had been repealed only weeks beforehand. Job
done, he signed. Prayers were offered up.
CAR TROUBLE
A few years back Charlie and I went to buy a second
car. The rules about what paperwork one needs in order to
buy a car in Italy have never really been properly understood.
When we first arrived here, you needed to be an official resident
to qualify for car ownership. This resulted in those non-Italians
who did not have residency, buying cars in the name of their
neighbour, gardener or long-lost cousin. We had bought a car
in 2004 without having official residency and all was above
board, insured, taxed and everything. When we bought the
second one, we left the garage, having handed over the cash,
and headed for the ACI (Automobile Club d’Italia) office to
register our names as new owners. Except they would not let
us. Only a month prior, the laws had changed, so now we
needed a document that neither of us had at that time.
Exasperated and not a little worried, we headed back to the
garage to break the good news. Fortunately they were kind to
us and left the car registered to the garage, until we could sort
the papers out. I recently discovered another little bureaucratic
snippet involving cars, which left a friend of ours with an
unexpected bill. It seems that if you lose one of your license
plates, (in a flooded ford across a road, in this particular
instance) you cannot simply request a replacement. Oh no.
The car needs to be re-registered with new plates, which can
cost around €400. Probably more than the car was worth…
When it comes to dealing with electricity and telecoms
companies, I can only say best of luck. You will require not
only patience, but also a good friend on hand who can calm
your homicidal tendencies and mop your sweating brow with
a cool flannel. Needless to say I have forced myself to learn
patience and the art of deep breathing. Maybe I should think
about taking up yoga. italy
p75 IBC FP_Bellagio Real Estate :ADS 23/1/09 11:18 Page 1
p76 OBC FP? :ADS 23/1/09 15:37 Page 1