Types of Central Heating Boilers

Boiler Basics The size of the boiler should be matched to the size of the property. If the boiler is oversized, then the fuel bills will be excessive. If the boiler is undersized, it may not generate enough heat in winter. The ideal size for a boiler is one that just copes adequately on the coldest day of the year. Most boilers are oversized by at least 30%. This is due to the way systems used to be calculated with a card calculator. These always over calculated to be on the safe side. Today the emphasis is on energy conservation, and the fact that heat loss calculations can be done very accurately on a PC, Means there is no need to oversize. This allows smaller radiators and so less water in the system, which it turn means a smaller boiler and reduced costs for both installation and fuel bills. The boiler doesn't directly govern the amount of radiators fitted to the system. It is the power of the pump and circulation of the water through adequately sized pipes that determines the number of radiators you can have. But the total output of all the radiators, pipes and cylinders determines the size of the boiler. Flueing & Ventilation All gas-burning appliances need air to burn and need to be able to get rid of the burnt gas, i.e. out via a flue. Most modern boilers are called room sealed (Balance Flue) which means all the air for combustion of the gas is taken from outside, through a duct and the fumes from the burnt gas are taken through a second duct, back outside (usually the flue duct is inside the air duct). Alternatively, it is possible to get boilers that are open flue. (Not Recommended) These take air for combustion through an air grill fitted in the room where the boiler is located. The fumes then go up the flue, which terminates above the roof. If for any reason the flue gets damaged or the ventilation grill gets blocked, or even a fault develops within the boiler itself, poisonous fumes could enter the living space. So open flue boilers should never be considered when fitting or replacing a central heating boiler, although new boilers do have extra safety devices. All new boilers now are fanned flue and room sealed, which is the best and safest option. Some boilers use a fan in conjunction with an open flue. Most boilers also need extra air to keep them cool, especially if fitted in a small compartment, however some modern boilers do not need any extra cooling air. The size and position of ventilation depends on the heat input of the boiler, the type of flue and where the air is coming from. There are a lot of regulations for safety of the flue and ventilation, so if you are in any doubt consult a Corgi registered installer to check this. All gas appliances should be checked for safety once a year, any faults or potential faults should be picked up then. Various Types of Central Heating Boiler: Back Boiler Should not be considered if you are putting in a complete central heating system. Even if you just want to change your existing back boiler, fitting a different type of boiler on a fully pumped system will probably be no more expensive than changing the back boiler and flue liner, and would reduce the running costs. Back boilers are fitted at the back of gas fires. (Hence the name) They are made from cast iron and are a legacy from a time when the house's water was heated by a coal fire. With the advent of smokeless zones and the increasing popularity of gas fires, it was a relatively easy job to fit a gas back boiler (circulator). These just heated water for the taps and had a gas fire in front. For a little more expense you could put in a back boiler with a high proportion fitted to a primatic cylinder

Because these boilers are fitted behind fires they are "open flued", so Must have an air vent fitted. This lets in fresh air from outside to replace the fumes that go up the flue. These tend to be draughty and noisy. If faults develop with the ventilation, flue or boiler itself, poisonous, and potentially lethal fumes could leak into the room. Advantages Space saving Reliable Cast Iron Boilers Cast iron boilers were the only type you could get at one time, they are very robust and last a long time, sometimes as long as 30 years or more. These were often fitted in kitchens and because they get very hot and give off a lot of waste heat, no radiator was needed in the room where the boiler was located. However, if the boiler was installed in an outhouse or garage then the heat it gave off would be wasted and the fuel bills would be a lot higher. Cast iron boilers can be floor standing or wall mounted, they can be open flue or room sealed. If you have a Gravity System, you will have a cast iron boiler. If you replace the boiler then you are advised to update the system to something more efficient than gravity. But you can update the system without changing the boiler, if the boiler is relatively new and this would reduce fuel costs. Advantages This type of boiler tends to have a very long life Very few parts to go wrong Disadvantages Not as efficient as other types of boiler Usually quite large Disadvantages Expensive to Install / run Draughty, as they need a permanent air vent Noisy Limited choice of fire

Combination Boilers These boilers provide both instant hot water and central heating, but not at the same time. They are hot water priority which means when hot water is being run there is no heat output to the radiators. These boilers are ideal in smaller homes where space is at a premium or where the demand for hot water is not too great. These are not recommended for houses with more that one bathroom due to the low hot water flow rate which can only feed one tap at a time In larger homes, or if there is a need for stored hot water you can install these with a "S-Plan" system, then just use the instant water at one or two taps and a cylinder to feed one or two bathrooms. Some combination boilers supply hot water quicker than others. This is mainly because some store a small amount of hot water, so when the hot tap is run the stored water is used first. Others have to start up from cold which could mean running a lot of cold water before the hot water gets to the tap. It is recommended to get a 28KW output as a lower output affects the hot water temperature, some manufactures now offer a 35KW boiler for better HW performance

Careful consideration as to the location of a combination boiler is essential. It should be fitted as close to the taps as possible. (halfway between the kitchen & bathroom would be ideal) If a combination boiler is fitted a long way from the taps, a lot of water will be wasted waiting for the hot water to reach them. These boilers are very popular at present mainly because they are very easy to install and all the necessary components are built in, plus there is no need for any tanks. (Designed to work on a sealed system) However, the water temperature is normally limited to just under 60deg C, and that is at a low water flow rate. At higher water flow rates the temperature will be lower depending on the temperature of the water coming in from the mains, Normally these will raise the water temperature about 35C at 12 L/min. This type of boiler is very cheap to run, but can also be troublesome and expensive to repair if faults occur. You may also find that a lot of installers can't repair this type of boiler, so if you are going to have a combination boiler fitted, ask when you are getting quotes about the maintenance. If the installer can't or won't repair it then try someone else who can maintain the appliance Advantages Cheap to run Very easy to install No storage tanks Disadvantages Can only feed one hot water tap at a time Parts can be expensive Can be troublesome and expensive to maintain Shorter life span Sometimes difficult finding someone able to repair these boilers Not for homes with more that one bathroom

Note: The installation of a Room thermostat is very beneficial to these type of boiler (and compulsory under the 2002 Building regulations), It will make the boiler more reliable and more economical to run but unfortunately a lot of plumbers don't fit them because it means more work for them Condensing Boilers These are high efficiency boilers that are so efficient that almost no waste heat comes out of the flue. They also have a condensation drain as well as a flue to let the condensation out. Condensing boilers have improved a lot in recent years and can be fitted in conjunction with any fully pumped system. (Y Plan, S Plan or Thermal Storage) There are even condensing combination boilers. If youre looking to be environmentally friendly, then this is the type of boiler you are looking for. However, these are at their most efficient whilst heating up, once they are on tick over the efficiency drops (when the return water gets up to 50C), so it's a must to have a cylinder thermostat and a room thermostat fitted. If you are going to the extra expense of having a condensing boiler, then it is extremely important that the system is fitted correctly.

Cross Section of Condensing Boiler

This means having very little restriction in the system, less than 50% of the radiators should have thermostatic radiator valves (TRV) fitted to allow a good flow through the boiler. On modulating condensing boilers then the minimum heat output of the boiler must have that amount of radiators without TRV's for the boiler to work in the condensing mode. I would recommend that radiator thermostats be fitted in bedrooms only. When everything is warm and all the electric Room thermostat is satisfied the boiler shuts down completely. This will allow the boiler to cool before another demand for heat. It pays to have the boiler the correct size for the house, or even slightly smaller for maximum efficiency. Advantages Cheap to run on a good system using good controls Disadvantages Expensive to buy System must not be too restricted or have too many TRV's fitted The condensate is very corrosive These boilers only work in the condensing mode when the working conditions are correct

Low Water Content Boilers This type of boiler only holds a only a small amount of water in it's copper heat exchanger, (sometimes made of a light cast iron) making it very economical to run and small in physical size. These must be fitted to a fully pumped system. This type of boiler has been around for about 25 to 30 years. They are tried and tested and work very well. They are economical to run and can be fitted to a sealed system, meaning these boilers will fit almost anywhere (even in a kitchen cupboard). Most modern boilers are fan flue with electronic ignition, so there is no pilot to re-light. Advantages Inexpensive to buy Economical to run Very few internal components Very small so can fit inside a cupboard Disadvantages Will not work on gravity Hot Water systems

System Boilers A system boiler is the modern expression for, basically, a low water content boiler. But with all the necessary extras to fit to a sealed, fully pumped system built in. This allows quick and easy installation. (Also looks a lot tidier than the a low water content boiler with the necessary extras to make it a sealed system) These are larger then a standard low water content boiler because of the extra components within the boiler, but are a lot easier to install. Advantages Advantages Cheap to run Good hot water flow rate (depending on type of cylinder) Longer lifespan Disadvantages More expensive to install Parts can be expensive Takes up more space

Warm Air Units This is central heating with a difference, the difference being these units do not contain any water (dry system). The air is warmed directly by the gas as it passes through a simple heat exchanger, the air is then circulated through ducts within the property. These systems are extremely economical to run and quick to warm up from cold, but if you are wanting this type of system then you would be best moving into a house that already has it. Or building your own house, fitting the warm air ducts as the house is being built. This type of system is almost impossible to fit into existing houses because of the large ducts needed to circulate the air. These really should be installed in the centre of the property with the ducts starting off very large and gradually reducing. Air vents are also needed in the walls from heated rooms to allow cooler air to return back to the warm air unit for re-heating. (return air) This is filtered, reheated and then blown back through the ducts by large fan. Its also possible to get electrostatic air filters to eliminate odours and 95% of airborne particles. (good for asthma sufferers) The circulation fan may be used to circulate air in the summer to promote cooling. But should not be confused with Air Conditioning as air Conditioning is something totally different Mechanical Heat Recovery & Ventilation (MHRV) units may be incorporated into a ducted warm air system. Utilising the warm-air ductwork, kitchen extract fans and tumble dryers may also be piped into the warm air/MHRV system. Advantages Economical Quick to heat the property Fan can be used for cooling in summer Disadvantages Can't add to later Odours can be transported between rooms

Warm air heating was popular in the sixties and seventies, when a number of houses were built with it in, but the only new ones are replacement units in existing properties. Most people will fit a wet central heating system if these units need replacing. Typical wiring arrangements

Water Heaters Most water heaters fitted in conjunction with warm air units are circulators, these are usually fitted in the case of the warm air unit and are very simple in operation. The heated water in the circulator rises by gravity into a direct cylinder, then the cooler (Heavier) water drops back for reheating. Far more popular are Instant multipoint water heaters These are totally independent of any central heating system, so can be fitted in homes without central heating or they can be used to give instant hot water with any other type of heating. When the hot tap is turned on, the gas fires and hot water is delivered at about 60 deg C with a delivery of about 1.5 Gal/min (dependent on incoming water temperature). So although it can, in theory, supply several taps, it can realistically only supply one tap at once. This is not normally a problem. Most instant water heaters do not use any electricity at all or store any hot water. A lot of this type of water heater are fitted in conjunction with a normal central heating boiler, giving all the advantages of a combination boiler, but can supply hot water and heating at the same time. These are more reliable and cheaper for parts, but more expensive to install and take up more wall space. They can often be fitted in the cylinder cupboard, as the cylinder is not used. Advantages Constant hot water No wasted water Cheap to run Easy to maintain Disadvantages Relatively slow flow rate Extra appliance to service

Reference: http://www.gasman.fsbusiness.co.uk/types_of_central_heating_boilers.htm