1 Byrd, A. & Tharp, L. (2001). Hair story: Untangling the roots of black hair in America.

New York, NY: St. Martins Press.

This book takes a chronological look at the culture behind the ever-changing state of Black hair, from fifteenth-century Africa to the present-day United States. From the triumph of Madame C.J. Walker, whose method of hair culture made her wealthy, to konking (Malcolm X's recollection of his first konk) to the Afro, the memories of grease and hot combs and perms and dreadlocks. The opening chapter chronicles the rise of the slave trade, revealing intriguing facts about the significance of hair in African culture, such as that only royalty donned hats or hairpieces, and recently widowed Wolof women stopped maintaining their hair as a sign of their mourning. Photos and illustrations are put to effective use, helping to guide readers through the text.

I love this book. It really delves deep into the history of black hair, which helps me to understand black womens relationship with our hair. I feel like this book will enhance my research because I now understand the history of black tresses. If I choose to conduct in-depth interviews or surveys, I now know what to ask. The book also touches on the politics of our hair and how its affected social status, employment, relationships, etc. The book also inspired me to expand my research to men, as I was only considering how the media influenced African American womens perception of their natural hair.

2 Davis-Sivasothy, A. (2011). The science of black hair: A comprehensive guide to textured hair care. Stafford, TX: Saja. This book is packed with photos and includes extensive product listings, an ingredients glossary, interviews, and real photos of hair at the microscopic level. It discusses ways for managing the protein/moisture balance and fighting breakage, regimen building with extensive product lists, caring for natural hair, managing color, relaxer strategies, nutrition, and children's hair care as well. Its filled with research with testimony in an authoritative reference text dedicated to the care of black hair relaxed or natural. This book introduces readers to a comprehensive healthy hair care strategy for achieving beautifully radiant hair regardless of hair type (Davis-Sivasothy, 2011). Black hair structure, properties, and maintenance methods are carefully outlined throughout this reference book to give the tools needed to improve the health and look of your hair.

This book is not going to help with my research. While it has a wealth of great information about the science of black hair and how to care for it correctly, I cant really use the information provided to research how the media has influenced the perception on black hair.

Patton, T. (2006). Hey Girl, Am I More than My Hair?: African American Women and Their Struggles with Beauty, Body Image, and Hair. NWSA Journal, 18(2), 24-51.

This article examines the effect of the White standard of beauty upon African American women. By shedding light on the salience of the effects of beauty, body image, and hair,

3 this article questions societal definitions of beauty. Adherence to the Euro American beauty standard has had, and continues to have, devastating effects upon African American women (Patton 2006). In addition, this standard pits African American women against the dominant cultural standard of beauty. Two theoretical frameworks guide the authors analysis of beauty standards: Afrocentric theory and standpoint theory. She argue that the continuance of hegemonically defined standards of beauty not only reify White European standards of beauty in the United States, but also that the marginalization of certain types of beauty that deviate from the norm are devastating to all women. Further, the unrealistic expectations of beauty and hairstyle reify the divisions that exist between African American and Euro American women.

This article will work well for my research. Not only does it talk about the black womens plight with hair but it also talks about body image and the American standard of beauty. This article will enhance my research because it compares beauty standards of African American and Euro American women, reviewing them through historical and current lenses. It also explores the possibility of redefining standards of beauty and normality through Black beauty liberation.

4 Brown Givens, S. M., & Monahan, J. L. (2005). Priming Mammies, Jezebels, and Other Controlling Images: An Examination of the Influence of Mediated Stereotypes on Perceptions of an African American Woman. Media Psychology, 7(1), 87-106.

This study examines how mediated portrayals of African American women influence judgments of African American women in social situations. Researchers administered a focus group where participants observed a mammy, jezebel, or non-stereotypic image on video. Participants then observed a mock employment interview involving either an African American or White woman. As hypothesized, participants associated the African American interviewee more quickly with negative terms (e.g., aggressive) than with positive terms (e.g., sincere). Also as hypothesized, when evaluating the job interviewee, participants who observed the jezebel stereotype video and the African American female interviewee responded more quickly to jezebel-related terms (e.g., sexual) than positive, negative, and mammy (e.g., maternal) terms.

This article may be useful for my research. It doesnt focus on hair or beauty per se, but it does explore how African American women were portrayed on television shows and how that affects societal views. If I were to base my research on black images in the media as a whole then this article would definitely fit but Im not completely certain it fits with the perception of black hair in the media. I will keep it as a possible for now.

5 Jefferson, D. L., & Stake, J. E. (2009). Appearance Self-Attitudes Of African American And European American Women: Media Comparisons And Internalization Of Beauty Ideals. Psychology of Women Quarterly, 33(4), 396-409.

This study examined the differences in the body image of African American women and European American women with an improved methodology that controlled for body size, distinguished between satisfaction with and importance of body features, and included non-weight (e.g., hair texture, skin color) as well as weight-related features. The authors also noted that the average woman depicted in the media is much thinner and taller than the average American woman, and they assume that women who compare themselves to such media figures feel more dissatisfied with their bodies. The authors argue that media images are generally more relevant for European American women than they are for African American women because of the preponderance of European American women in the media and that African American women may feel less pressure than European American women to conform to media ideals because alternate and broader standards of beauty in the African American community may serve as a buffer against the impact of media comparisons.

This article will work well for my research. There is a small section in the study that delves into the portrayal of hair texture and skin color in the media. I like that this article challenges my hypothesis that African American women are just as or even more affected by the images portrayed in the media. My argument is because the media rarely shows

6 kinky/course hair as beautiful, African American women have gone to extreme measures to fit into the European American aesthetic.

Bellinger, W. (2007). Why African American Women Try To Obtain 'Good Hair'. Sociological Viewpoints, 2363-72. This article presents a study regarding the definition of "good hair" according to African American women. The objective of the study is to understand the reasons young African American women choose to change their hair from its supposed "natural" state. The data was gathered by participant observation and open-ended interviews with fifteen African American women between the ages of 16-18. n addition to surveying African Americans, I also interviewed a variety of women of other races, one Filipino, one Indian, and one Chinese girl, to understand their opinions on why African American women change their hair. According to data collected, the primary reason African American teenage girls chemically change their hair is to make it "good hair". Good hair refers to hair which is long, straight, and has a silky feeling or when one has seemingly Caucasian hair. Others say they no longer follow historical norms of wanting to appear white in appearance, but claim that they change their hair's chemical make-up for ease of styling, time, and the creation and perpetuation of healthy hair.

This article is awesome and has key information about why African American women chemically alter their hair. The article also discusses what the politics of black hair in the work environment, how black women often feel that their natural hair isnt good enough and the overall emotional relationship women have with their hair. The article was easy

7 to follow and will be used to answer the why when it comes to black hair. I like that this article dealt with societal issues from various ethical groups. I know that women of all races have a very interesting emotional relationship with their hair and it is not just an African American issue.

White, S. (2005). Releasing the pursuit of bouncin' and behavin' hair: natural hair as an Afrocentric feminist aesthetic for beauty. International Journal of Media & Cultural Politics, 1(3), 295-308. This article talks about some of the historical and social baggage in the African American community such as hair and skin color. The article argues that the system promotes a hierarchy that suggests the more European ones features - the lighter ones skin, the less ethnic ones facial features and the straighter and longer ones hair - the greater ones social value. The author documented her journey of transitioning to her natural hair texture and answered many questions black woman have when thinking about transitioning: Would my hairstyle prohibit me from finding a job? What would my family say? Would people relate to me differently? Would men find me attractive? The article uses Epistemology to gather experiences and stories from fourteen African American women who choose to wear their hair natural. Using Afrocentric feminist thought with Foss procedures for feminist criticism, the author seek to understand how a Eurocentric standard of beauty is constructed and how these women have challenged and transformed this universal standard. Foss argues that in feminist criticism the primary interest of the critic is in how oppression is constructed and eliminated.

8 This article is very informative and will add depth to my research. The article collects narratives from fourteen women with different experiences with their natural hair. The article was studied through Foss Feminist Theory which is a theory that Ive never heard of before. The article concluded that through the act of choosing to wear ones hair natural, African American women are finding their own centre and their own voices to define beauty. No longer will African American women allow someone elses definition of beauty to be imposed upon us, which is a great viewpoint for my research which is how that media influence African American women perceptions of natural hair.

Harris, J. & Johnson, P. (2001). Tenderheaded: A comb-bending collection of hair stories. New York, NY. Pocket Books. This book is filled with poems, essays, cartoons, photos, and excerpts from novels and plays, women and men speak to the meaning hair has for them, and for society. In a series of personal narratives, it shows that the issue is not only about looking good, but about feeling adequate in a society where the beauty standards are unobtainable for most women. Tenderheaded boldly throws open the closet where black women's skeletons have been threatening to burst down the door. This book talk about health issues that black women face because of hair as well as intimacy issues. Art historian Henry John Drewal explores how hairstyles, in Yoruba culture, indicate spiritual destiny, and activist Angela Davis questions how her message of revolution got reduced to a hairstyle.

I read a few excerpts from this book and it was hilarious. The narratives were so authentic and relatable on many levels. This book also adds a bit of the social

9 construction and talks about where certain feelings pertaining to hair came from. Overall it seems to be a very passionate book, sharing the stories of African American women and men and answering the question of why. Why are African Americans so obsessed with hair?

Tarpley, N. & Lewis. E.B. (1998). I love my hair. New York, NY. Little, Brown Books for Young Readers. I Love My Hair, the author reflects on a little girl's experience of her mother fixing her hair. Although Keyana's experience of getting her hair fixed is not always pleasant, the outcome is always pleasing. While Keyana's mother fixes her hair, she tells Keyana how beautiful her hair is and that she is lucky to have the kind of hair that she does. Once when Keyana's mother fixes her hair in an afro, the kids at school teased her, but then her teacher told her that she should be proud of her hair and that the afro style is a statement of pride in her African heritage. Through her mother's and her teacher's encouragement, Keyana learns to appreciate and love her hair as well as herself. This book promotes the messages of accepting and loving one's self and accepting other peoples differences.

This book was great. I loved how Keyana was encouraged to embrace her hair at a very young age. Im not really sure how it will help my research but it made me question how generational the struggle with African American hair texture is. This book showed a mother encouraging her daughter to accept her hair as is instead of chemically changing it. After finishing this book, I thought of how my grandmother reacted when I decided to wear my hair in its natural state. She wasnt too thrilled. If I were to conduct future

10 research, I may focus on the generational views of African American women and natural hair.

11 Overall I found great research to support my topic. While I felt like the articles were a little redundant, they all pretty much stated that the media and society has a huge influence on the way African American women perceive their natural hair. A lot of articles concluded that society has forced a European standard of beauty which leaves a lot of African American women feeling inadequate when it comes to beauty. Although chemically straightening (relaxing) course and kinky hair is a long and pain and process, African American women find it the necessary in order to be accepted in our professional and personal lives. When wearing unaltered course afro-like hair many African American women are stereotyped as militant, radical, and less beautiful.

The article I found most useful was Releasing the pursuit of bouncin' and behavin' hair: natural hair as an Afrocentric feminist aesthetic for beauty. This article was great because the author documented her own experiences in wearing her unaltered natural hair as well as collected narratives from other women. The article gave a personal point-of-view that made it really relatable and interesting to read. I like that she researched this topic from a feminist theoretical perspective which opened my mind to possibly studying my topic from a social constructionist theoretical view.

The articles also confirmed that I would like to conduct my study through in-depth interviews. Although my research would be limited, I think interviews are the best way to get unbiased narratives on such a sensitive and personal topic.