Books & cooks

Mexican cuisine
(S$57.73, Books Kinokuniya) Truly Mexican is the second cookbook by celebrated Mexican chef and restaurateur Roberto Santibaez, who proves that Mexican cooking is more than just beans, burritos and tacos. Packed with 128 recipes of classic dishes, this glossy tome features easy-to-follow instructions that will ease any home cook into the colourful world of Mexican cooking.
Pros:

Roberto Santibaez Truly Mexican,

The book opens with a section devoted to the fundamentals of Mexican cuisine, which provides a great entry point for any cook trying out Mexican food for the first time. Santibaez offers detailed descriptions and visuals of techniques that form the cornerstone of the cuisine, such as toasting chiles and chopping cilantro the Mexican way to yield the right texture and flavour. He also deconstructs the range of chiles with a comprehensive chart detailing flavour notes and the precise culinary treatment for each variety, and provides suggestions for substitutes particularly useful in this part of the world.

Santibaez frames his book with a heavy emphasis on condiments and sauces. He explains: Instead of memorising recipes for 20 different dishes, make one sauce to apply to 20 dishes. Within this framework, youll have the freedom to experiment beyond the recipes in his cookbook. Youll learn how to make mouth-numbing salsas to accompany grills, lush guacamole thats delicious on its own, and soulful adobos or moles to sauce up meats. I tried the basic guajillo adobo, which then gave me the option to whip up adobo-marinated shrimp or chicken. The shrimp was incredibly easy to prepare, yet electrified by the chiles and garlic in the adobo; the same adobo marinade infused an inviting red hue to the chicken, which my dinner guests enjoyed thoroughly. Santibaezs inclination towards contemporary Mexican cuisine is evident from recipes that transform classics with a flavourforward twist. His blue cheese guacamole was a creamy union of two ingredients with similar textures but contrasting, complementary notes. His peach salsa struck just the right balance of sweet and tart, making it both a seductive appetiser and the perfect accompaniment to a hearty stew.

Cons:

Several recipes are inaccessible if you are living in this part of the world as they call for ingredients that are difficult to find here. While Santibaez suggests substitutes for these ingredients, Hispanic herbs such as epazote simply have no comparable substitute. Those with a sweet tooth will also be disappointed to find the dessert section missing. It would have been perfect if he had included a few sweet recipes to round up a Mexican party feast.

You may also like:

Barbara Sibley, Mary Goodbody, Margaritte Malfy Antojitos: Festive and Flavorful Cecilia Hae-Jin Lee Quick & Easy Mexican Cooking: More Than 80 Everyday Recipes (S$35.88, Books Kinokuniya) This features fuss-free recipes for soulful eats. Home cooks will find it easy to recreate the tempting taquitos, burritos and classic desserts featured here. Fiona Dunlop Viva la Revolucin!: New Food from Mexico (S$36.90, Borders) Recipes are almost secondary to this book, which draws us in with Dunlops insightful look into the evolution of Mexican cooking. Besides presenting time-honoured Mexican recipes, she also profiles 12 chefs who combine the native flavours of Mexican cuisine with modern sensibilities.

Mexican Appetizers
(S$38.42, Books Kinokuniya) For a taste of Mexican street fare, check out the 75 recipes collected in this book. Dishes range from corn crepes with poblano salsa (crepas de huitlacoche) to salmon ceviche with mango salsa. Fany Gerson My Sweet Mexico: Recipes for Authentic Pastries, Breads, Candies, Beverages, and Frozen Treats (S$59.95, Borders) This is devoted to the world of Mexican pastries, desserts and beverages, where classic recipes feature alongside the contemporary. More than just a cookbook, youll find the author weaving in her narrative on Mexicos rich culinary history.

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bbc good food

august 2011

words Denise KoK