in the usual meaning, a dwelling for human habitation, especially for the private occupation of a family.

The study of house design and construction embraces the art of architecture and the science of engineering. Important considerations in choosing a good house design include selection of site, orientation of the house on site, development of structure and floor plan, and use of sound construction techniques and materials. Building or buying a house is one of the major events of a lifetime and should be undertaken with prudence and preparation. Its costs represent past savings and future incomes. Its design and location will affect ultimately the lives of each member of the family. BASIC HOUSE TYPES Before choosing the basic house type that best fits your familys needs, you must make sure that its projected size and shape conforms to the size and contour of the land, site, and the local zoning regulations. One-story House. The absence of stairs makes the one story house safe to live in and requires fewer exertions when moving between living areas. Merging of indoor and outdoor living areas can be done on a much larger scale. Designed in U, H, or L shape, it provides privacy for outdoor living areas. The exterior walls are easier to maintain, because a minimum of ladder climbing is necessary. The squarefoot -cost of a one-story house, however, is ordinarily more than that of a two-story house, because floor levels do not double up under a common roof and over a common foundation. Two-story house. The double-level design offers the most living area per square foot cost, as both floors have a common roof and foundation. Further savings are effected when the first floor is partially below ground level, since the foundation walls enclose the living areas as well as support the house. It also takes-up the least amount of site area for its square-foot size. Though stair climbing is strenuous, the second floor provides privacy and separation of the sleeping areas from the main stream of family traffic. Heating costs are usually less per square-foot in a two-story house, as there is less heat loss through a smaller roof area. Split-level House. This multi-level design is best adapted to sloping ground, with the single level on the high side, and the two-story section on the low side. This arrangement requires the least amount of excavating. The split-level house produces more living areas on less land than a one-story house and less stair climbing than a two-story house. Varying floor levels provides excellent separation of living areas, lend to variety in appearance to the exterior, and add interest to the interior space. Wall and floor framing can be complicated, adding to the cost of the house.

House,

SHOULD YOU BUILD OR BUY A HOUSE If you always lived in an apartment and are unsure of what home ownership involves, it is often advisable first to rent a home. You can then become familiar with the maintenance problems and increased responsibilities of a larger dwelling. Try to avoid buying a house when the demand exceeds the supply. In sellers market, you may have to pay a higher price and purchase unneeded extra equipment. You must also consider the permanency of your employment, the possibility that you will be transferred often, and your own desires about settling down in one place. It often takes a minimum of several months to dispose off an unwanted house, and you may have to sell at a loss. Buying a development or tract house. An independent builder of tract homes can buy land , material and labor in quantity, thus reducing his cost per house. It is highly probable that you could not meet his price if you were to build the same house on your own. Tract home are open for inspection. If they are well built, cost of maintenance and repair will be minimum. Inspect a for sale house with an appraiser, an architect, or a builder. With the help of a professional you can quickly determine the quality of materials used, workmanship, design, and building site. ( The cost of consultants fee is little in comparison to the loss that can be incurred on a poor purchase). Disadvantages to be considered in the purchase of a tract home do exist. The houses are usually uninspired in design, conceived to satisfy a mass market. There is little individuality or character to tract houses. Monotony prevails in a repetition of design throughout the development. Landscaping is often nonexistent, with not a mature tree in sight. Also, there is usually no provision for private outdoor living. Indoor, good room arrangement for convenience and privacy is often lacking. Buying an old house. The cost of older houses is generally lower due to depreciation of structure and outmoded design. Also, there is the possibility of a low-interest mortgage that you can assume. Investment in landscaping is usually minimal as lawns are already established. But there are drawbacks: maintenance, repair, and costs for remodeling and redecorating can run high, particularly if the owner is not a do-it-yourself enthusiast. Expensive heating costs are also a possibility due to an inefficient heating system and lack of insulation. Building a custom house. If you hire an architect to design your house, you will get a structure that has been professionally designed to fit your personal requirements and the specific demands of the site. You can use the architect to differing degrees. For example you have him merely draw up the design and execute the working drawings, or he can create the design and follow the project through to completion. The latter involves examination and selection of the site, preparation of the contracts, selection of the builder, and supervision of the construction. The architect also acts as the mediator between owner and builder, ensuring that each lives up to the contract agreements. He also handles the financial arrangements between the owner and builder and sees that the builder follows materials and construction specifications. You should select an architect carefully. Find out whether he is experienced in residential design. Does he follow through on supervision of the job? Is he a competent businessman as well as an inspired designer? If it is possible, you should also look at the homes in the area designed by the architect. An architects fee is usually based on the percentage of the cost of the job. The standard fee for residential construction is 10%, but it can vary anywhere from 3% to 18%.

The building of a home is a challenging , complicated and often unexpectedly, expensive undertaking. You will be concerned with the structure from its inception to its conclusion. You will have to deal in details to problems in design, law, construction, and finance. Often there are unforeseen delays and expenses, errors in judgment, and oversights. Unless you can afford the services of an architect and dedicated to the idea of having your own dream house, it is less demanding, although less rewarding to buy an already finished house. Preplanned Houses. There are, in addition to the architect-designed custom house, four other types of houses to be considered in home building. Prefabricated house. The prefabricated house is cut and assembled in the factory and is shipped to your home site in sections. The factory does most of the work; thus hand-labor costs are minimized. Centralized production and volume buying of materials also help to keep costs low. Most prefabricators sell to development builders, but a few will cater to the individual home builder. Prefabricators offer a variety of house designs. House packages differs as to content. Some include a complete house including, plumbing, wiring, and heating. Others only supply the basic structure. Precut House. Lumber for a precut house is cut at the factory and is shipped to the building site unassembled. Since all of the structural members are cut precisely to size, the house can be assembled quickly with a minimum of lumber waste. All parts are numbered to indicate their place in the house structure. Complete blueprints and working drawings are supplied so that a confident amateur carpenter could attempt the construction himself. It is usually advisable, however, for a professional builder to do the work. Shell house. Shell houses are available in varying degrees of completion, usually consisting of a finished exterior and rough interior, with partition framing and subflooring installed. The shell house builder constructs the desired model for you on your own site; you finish the rest of the house yourself. This includes application of millwork (exterior and interior wood trim); installation of finished flooring, wallboards, ceilings, and doors; and interior decorating. Building from Stock Plans. Many magazines and house plan companies offer complete architectdesigned blue prints. The cost of one set of plans is usually about $20 and 5$ for each additional set. Thousands of different plans are available, and many of the houses are of excellent design. Care must be exercised in the selection of a stock plan. Will the plans suit your familys needs? Does it fit the contour of the site? The plans usually consists of four or more pages of blueprints which shows all the dimensions, details, and exterior elevation of the house, as well as the arrangements of the rooms. Also included is a construction list enumerating types, sizes, and quantities of building materials needed. A specification outline lists the quality of workmanship and material. It is wise to have an architect locate your stock plan house on the site for correct position and minimum excavation costs. You can then proceed building in one of four ways: 1.) you can have an architect supervise the entire construction. 2.) you can hire a general contractor to supervise the construction and hire subcontractors. 3.) you can be your own general contractor and make separate contracts for all elements of the building. 4.) you can build the house yourself, but this is recommended only for the most experienced. FINANCIAL ASPECTS OF HOUSE BUYING Before you buy a house you should realize fully the expenses involved in addition to the mortgage principal and interest. These expenses include property and school taxes, insurance, assessments, utilities (water, sewage, and garbage disposal), heating costs, maintenance and repair, and depreciation.

How Much House Can You Afford? A good rule of thumb is that the purchase price of the house should not exceed 2 to 2 times your annual net income. For instance, if your net income per year is $7000, your house should cost between $14000 and $17500. Also your total home loan and maintenance expenses should not exceed 20% of your net current income. Paying for Your House. The most common method of financing the purchase of house is with a mortgage loan. The buyer makes a cash down payment based on a certain percentage of the cost of the house. Initial payment depends on the type of payment secured and can range from as little as 2% or 3% to almost the total cost of the house. The balance is provided in the form of a mortgage by a private lending agency such as a bank, savings and loan associations, or an insurance company. For this loan, which may run up to 30 years in length, the mortgagor (borrower), pays an annual interest charge of approximately 5% to 6%, depending on the type of loan, variance in regional rates, the value of the property, and the borrowers credit standing. A government-insured Federal Housing Administration (FHA) loan allows you to borrow money at current minimum rates for a maximum length of time. The FHAs does not make loans; it provides insurance to private lending agencies. Mortgage applications are submitted by the mortgagee, the bank lending agency, to the FHA for investigation. Upon its approval of the projected loan, the FHA insures the private lending agency against loss of principal and interest if the mortgagor cannot meet monthly payments. FHA insurance costs the mortgagor an additional % interest over and above the interest charged by the mortgagee. When arranging for a loan, it is prudent to check several agencies to obtain the lower interest rate and the length of payment that suits you best. It is wise to borrow as little as possible and to repay it as quickly as is convenient. The more you borrow and the longer you keep the money, the higher your interest cost will be. Consider for example, a $25,000 home with a maximum mortgage loan of $22,045 (as permitted by the FHA) and a maximum repayment period of 30 years at an interest rate of 5 % plus % for FHA mortgage insurance. Over the 30-year period the interest payments alone would amount to $24,212.49. if the same loan where to be repaid in a 20-year period, the savings in interest would be $9,153.70

CHOOSING WHERE TO LIVE The problems in building or buying a house are essentially the same. Begin by choosing a community that suits your familys needs. Questions you should asks are as follows: 1.) is the general character of the community appealing to you? 2.) does the town have good public recreation facilities such as parks, tennis courts, baseball fields, and swimming pool? 3.) what is the caliber of the school? Are the teachers good? Are the buildings new or in good repair? How many children are there to a class? 4.) is there a place of worship for your religion? 5.) is convenient public transportation available for each member of your family? Are there buses, street cars, to business, school, and stores? 6.) how far will you have to travel to your place of work? How long will it take? How much will it cost? 7.) do police and fire departments operate quickly and efficiently in an emergency? 8.) does the town have a reputation as a safe place to live? 9.) are adequate local medical and hospital facilities available? 10.) will the local stores satisfy your tastes and needs? Do their prices come within your budget? 11.) what is the quality of local government? (Municipal decisions will affect the development of your town and the amount of your taxes.)

USE THE FOLLOWING STANDARDS TO JUDGE YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD: 1.) are nearby houses and properties improving or deteriorating? 2.) what are the zoning regulations? Can a factory or a store be built next to your house? 3.) is the house youre considering more expensive than the others nearby? (If so, you may be unable to sell it for as much as you paid.) 4.) are there noise nuisances nearby such as an airport or a railroad? 5.) is there a steeply graded road next to the house that will require shifting of gears and applying of brakes by heavy trucks day and night? 6.) are nearby roads heavily traveled and dangerous? 7.) are you in the path of industrial odors and other disagreeable odors? (check the prevailing winds on weekdays when business and factories are open.) 8.) will you like your neighbors? Are they in your financial and educational strata? (Chances are, you will be most happy with people with similar likes and values.) 9.) if you are parents, do your neighbors have children of approximately the same age as yours?

EVALUATING YOUR SITE Topography and soil conditions will greatly affect the type of house you plan to build and the building costs. Steep slopes, swampy areas, and eroding soil makes construction difficult, expensive and often impossible. Rock-rich land will require expensive blasting for foundations and water and sewer lines. Clayey and non-absorbent soils will create surface drainage problems and prevent a septic field from

draining properly. Visit your sit on a rainy day to see if the land drains well. Check with your town engineer to see if a soil report has been made on your site. The report should list any defects on the land. Builders sometimes fill in a site with rubbish after construction. These pockets of debris are often not dense enough to support the structure and also can collect water that eventually leaks into your basement. UTILITIES & SERVICES It is important to ascertain what utilities and services are available and what their costs will be. Utility connections at the property line will save you money and the inconvenience of bringing in electricity from a distant point, digging septic sewage systems, and locating a water source. You will also want to know if paved streets, garbage collection, and street lighting are provided by the town, as well as what type of postal services are supplied. Also check if the town has future or unpaid tax assessments in your area for past or future improvements on roads, parks, or utilities. These costs can affect your future taxes. Tax rate is, of course, a basic consideration in your choice of house and site. Find what your annual property and school taxes will be on the assessed evaluation of your finished house and property. A land survey of your property is advisable and should be carried out by a licensed engineer or surveyor. The survey report indicates the position of boundaries, roads, and telephone lines and defines the dimensions of the property. DEED RESTRICTIONS In addition to local zoning regulations which governs the use of your land and the building of your house, there are often deed restrictions set up by developers and private owners. Such restrictions can specify the type of house design, its size, the building lines, and types of improvements permitted. These restrictions are usually specified in your deed. Easement. An easement is the right to make limited use of the land belonging to another. In some instances, an easement can restrict your freedom to build on land purchased. The most common type is the one dealing with driveways and their right-of-way through a property. Before you buy, you should have your lawyer check to see whether any easements on your property exists or whether any are planned by the municipal government or utility companies. Zoning. Zoning restrictions are public regulations which govern the use and development of land. Such regulations tend to stabilize real estate values and to protect land owners against the downgrading of property. Before you build, make sure your house meets these requirements as to type, size, and costs. Title Search. A title search is necessary to ascertain clear ownership to property title. A search reveals any liens, assessments, taxes, or other claims on the property. Your lawyer can advise you on having a search made and on the need for getting title insurance. Title insurance assures you that you will be reimbursed if the title proves invalid.

HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT FLOOR PLAN The arrangements of the living spaces in your house greatly affects the pleasures, convenience, comfort, and efficiency you receive. Poorly located, badly, sized rooms can actually make a home life annoying. Bad interior planning can also make decorating a difficult and unsatisfying task. Good interior planning takes into account the contrasting needs of family members by providing areas for privacy and pursuit of separate activities. It should dictate the interior form and size of the house and not be limited by a preconceived house exterior. The basis of good planning is the separation of unlike activities into four basic zones: the entry area, living area, dining-utility area, sleeping quiet area. Each of these zones have differing requirements of size, time of use, level of noise and privacy. Entry Area. This is the public area of the house, open to indoor-outdoor traffic. It is where you accept deliveries and open the door to salesmen and strangers. Therefore it should be insulated from the rest of the house and planned more as part of the outside than of the inside. The entry is the first impression of your house and how you live. It should be planned for easy accessibility, with ample storage space for outdoors gear and room for easy removal and donning of outdoor clothing. Living Area. The social area should be planned for group privacy and easy communication. To be relaxing enough for parents and formal enough area for entertaining it should be separated from the utility areas and away from the main stream of family traffic. If possible, it should be designed as a dead end room, i.e. a room with a single entrance so that it does not become a thorough fare of traffic to other parts of the house. The rooms should be large enough so that several persons can relax with comfort; it should have plenty of sunlight for a pleasant atmosphere. (a southern exposure is always preferable for year-round sunlight) the room should have the correct proportions for seating one or more conversation groups for easy communication. The living room is used mostly in the late afternoon and evening, so it should be acoustically insulated from the bedrooms. Too many doors, badly placed windows, or room that is too long and narrow can make decorating difficult. A strong architectural element such as a fireplace provides a center of interest for the room and creates a focal point for furniture arrangement. When the living room is the only living area in a house, provision should be made for flexible use of the space. You will want areas for desk work, for the children, and for conversations. You can also take the strain of the living room by making the other rooms do double duty, such as having the dining room double as a playroom or a study. Whenever possible, your house should have at least two living zones. Many houses being built today have a separate family room or adequate space in the basement or other lower level as play space for children. But often neither of these solutions give satisfactory separation of activities. The basement space is too remote and unpleasant, or the family room is so close the living room that neither parents nor children have any privacy. Another problem with the family room-living room arrangement is that the family room becomes the living center for all family activities, while the living room is saved for the visitors. An ideal solution for providing privacy for both parents and children has been devised by architect Marcel Breur. He divides the house into three separate sections. In the center are the common family areas - entry hall, kitchen, and dining room. On opposite sides of these central core are the parents and childrens zones. The parents area include the living room and the masters bedroom and bath. The childrens zone consist of their bedrooms, bath, and a central playroom opening onto the bedrooms. This playroom has a direct access to an outdoor play area so that the children do not disturb the house when running in and out. The master bedroom and living room have their own adjacent outdoor living areas. Dining-Utility Area. Because this zone is the center for performing household chores, it should be planned for efficiency. The area comprises the kitchen, laundry, utility, and eating areas. The work

zones should be located at the core of the house. It should be close to the garage for easy delivery of groceries, close to the outdoor living areas easy serving of outdoor meals, and near the outdoor utility yard. As a work zone, this area should be shielded from the front entry. Kitchen and dining room should be adjacent for ease of meal preparation and serving. The kitchen should include a space for breakfast, informal meals, and childrens meals. Sleeping-Quiet Area. This area includes the bedrooms, bathrooms, and study and should be located at one end of the house for quiet and privacy. It is primarily an area designed for individual use rather than for family use. Each bedroom should be located so that it can be reached directly from a common hall. The bathrooms should be directly available from each bedroom (without interfering with any other bedroom) and also accessible to guests. Young childrens bedroom should be near the parents bedroom but can be farther away when the children are older. Bedroom windows should be placed to provide cross ventilation whenever possible. The quiet zone is an ideal area for placing a study or den. An oversized bedroom prvides an excellent area for study or a hobby room. Bathrooms in this area should be placed close together for economy of materials and labor costs in installing plumbing lines. Bathrooms that are to be used by more than one person should be compartmented to allow double use. The usual arrangement is to put toilet and tub or shower in one compartment and one or more lavatories in another, the latter being placed closer to the door since it is used more frequently.

FLOOR PLAN CHECKLIST 1.) Entry, living, and sleeping areas are separate so each can function effectively. 2.) Circulation paths through house allow you to reach any area without having to disturb another. 3.) Entry hall protects rest of house from callers and distributes traffic to separate zones of house. 4.) Living room is dead end room, so traffic does not disturb its privacy. 5.) Living room has adequate wall space and good proportions for decorating. 6.) Living area have adequate window space and exposure to sun in one or more directions (preferably south and east) to insure bright pleasant atmosphere. 7.) Kitchen has adequate storage, counter space, with room for informal eating. 8.) There is good work triangle between sink, refrigerator, and range. 9.) Kitchen is convenient to front, back, and garage doors, for receiving deliveries and bringing in groceries. Kitchen is close to indoor and outdoor eating areas. 10.) Window is placed over sink for light and view. 11.) Height for counters and above-counter storage closets is correct for your height. 12.) Bedrooms are zoned at one end of the house for quiet and privacy. 13.) Wall areas are long enough to accommodate bed, bureaus, and tables. 14.) Bedroom facilities are adequate for family and guests. 15.) Space is provided for storing medicines and linens. 16.) Clothes closet have at least 0.90 m. In lineal width per person an a minimum of 0.55 m. Depth. 17.) Bedrooms have windows on more than one wall for cross ventilation. 18.) Electric light outlet is in bedroom hallway to prevent night accident. 19.) Storage closets throughout house are close to where articles are used. 20.) Storage space is available for garden tools, outdoor furniture, storm windows and screens. 21.) Storage is adequate for large , bulky items and items frequently used. 22.) Space is provided for workshop and for storage of tools and hobby items. 23.) Garage is attached to house, or there is overhang between garage and house entry. 24.) House and site plan will permit future expansion.

HOUSE CONSTRUCTION The best laid plans of architect and owner will be worth little unless the house is carefully built with the right materials. The builder must choose that suit the budget and the plans. At the same time it is also wise for the owner to consider future maintenance requirements. House building entails the services of many specialists, plumbers, electricians, carpenters, and so forth, but the owner can and should understand the essentials of what he is buying. Therefore the types of operations that go into building a house are discussed separately to outline some of the materials and processes involved. Foundation. The foundation, or footing, transfers the weight of the house to the ground. It is a continuous slab of poured concrete, from .50 to .60 m. thick, around the perimeter of the house and deep enough to form a basement, if one is planned. The concrete mixture is usually three parts washed gravel, two parts clean sand, and one part portland cement. The porch footing can be smaller than that for the house; but footing for the heavier parts should be larger. Inferior or nonexistent footings are indicated by cracks in the exterior masonry walls. The foundation walls rest on the footing and rise about .20 m. above ground level. The first level of the house rests on top of the foundation walls. The walls are usually .20 m. thick and made of poured concrete or concrete block. Wet-Weather Construction. It is important for the foundation area to have adequate drainage to prevent damage to the basic house supports and to avert flooding in the basement. The outside perimeter of the footing should be detained with open-joint pipe laid in a bed of coarse gravel that leads to a low spot in a property. The outside surface of foundation walls should be waterproofed down to ground level. In dry climates a heavy coating of roof asphalt or hot tar is usually sufficient. In moist or rainy climates a sandwich of polyvinyl sheet plastic between layers of hot asphalt is recommended. Basement. To begin the basement floor a base gravel or cinders should be packed down to at least a 0.10 m. thickness. A plastic sheet moisture barrier should then be laid down and concrete poured over it to another 0.10 m. thickness. Smoothing the floor surface with steel trowel prevents the concrete from crumbling or collecting dirt. An even slope to a floor drain or sump pump will help keep the area dry. The wood posts supporting overhead beams or girders should rest on a raised metal anchor or platform to prevent rot; they should not be imbedded into the concrete. No Basement. Houses with their main floors of concrete resting on the ground (slab houses) should have insulation walls to prevent heat loss from the floor to the ground. A bed of packaged gravel and a moisture barrier should be used to separate the concrete floor from direct contact with the earth. The concrete slab should be carefully made because the heating pipes or ducts are imbedded in it. Crawl Space. In a house designed with an air space between the earth and the underside of the first floor, the air-space, or crawl-space area must have some opening. Screened ventilator grills in the walls release moisture and prevent rotting of the timbers. Vegetation in the ground area should be killed chemically, and a 0.05m to 0.075 m. layer of concrete poured. A plastic sheet film can also be laid over the ground to keep the earths moisture from penetrating into the house structure. To prevent termite infestation, no part of the wood should be in direct contact with the ground. Copper or aluminum shielding on top of the foundation walls will help prevent termites from reaching and damaging wood members.

FRAMING The framing is the structural skeleton of the house and comprises the unfinished floors, walls, and roof. The three types of house framing are balloon, platform, and post-and-beam. Balloon framing has vertical supporting members, called studs, that rise in one piece from the foundation to the roof in two-story construction. Studs are in 0.05m by 0.10 m and are spaced 0.40 m. apart (center to center). The stud frame are stiffened at the corners with diagonal braces. Platform for a two-story house uses wall studs that rise only one story in height. The floors are independently framed. Post-and-Beam framing uses heavy vertical and horizontal members to allow wider space intervals throughout the structure. This type of construction is used in modern design to permit the use of extensive areas of glass that brings light and a sense of spaciousness to the interior.

FINISH sheathing is used over the roof and wall framing members. It can be made by 25 mm by 150 mm or 25 mm by 20 mm. Wood boards or 5/8 inch thick plywood, fiber, or gypsum boards. Sheathing strenghtens the framing and provides some insulation. Windows and doors may be installed as units, complete with glass, hardware, framing, and trim. Exterior. The exterior finish of the house should be chosen both to protect and decorate the home. There is a wide variety of materials in which to choose. In addition to the standard masonry and wood surfaces, many newer materials have lao installation and maintenance costs. Interior. Until recently, interiors were either plaster or wood, but today, there are many new products that are decorative, strong, and easy to maintain. Plaster applied over metal or plaster lath is known as a wet wall and provides a smooth, hard surface with a low factor of noise transmission. A dry wall is built of any of the building panels, such as gypsum, plywood, fiber, or wood particle board or hardboard.
EXTERIOR FINISH MATERIALS

Aluminum, durable, rustproof, in shingles, clapboards, and sheets. Available in baked-in enamel-color finish. Concrete block, many textures, colors and shapes, and a variety of decorative grille designs. Masonry, (brick, block, stone), strong, permanent; little maintenance required. Brick or stone more expensive than most exterior finishes. Plywood, gives either smoothed or patterned surface, depending on type used. Most types must be protected from weather with paint, stain, or sealer; others are waterproofed at the factory. Veneer, clip-on brick or stone veneer fastened to the sheathing; simulates the appearance of real masonry. Wood shingles, can be stained or painted, or can be left natural if resistant to weather (such as red cedar). Durable if not used in excessively dry climate. Wood siding, clapboards or vertical, horizontal boarding; must be painted or stained unless cedar, redwood, or cypress is used.

INTERIOR FINISH MATERIALS Walls and Ceilings

Acoustic tiles (wood fiber, gypsum, fiber glass), primarily used in ceilings to absorb noise. Ceramic tiles, many patterns, colors, shapes, glazed and unglazed finish. Composition boards, made of wood flakes bonded with adhesive. Fiberboard, lightweight sheets, panels and tiles; insulates, best used for ceilings. Gypsum board, low-cost material with smooth, seamless surface. Has appearance of plaster when joints are properly taped and sanded. Hardboard, sheets and panels with plain or plastic surfaces. Low maintenance. Plaster, smooth, seamless surface; moderate in cost, may crack. Plastic tile, mayy colors, easy ti install, not as durable as ceramic. Plywood, selection range from plain fir plywood (moderate in cost) to exotic expensive veneers. Wood panels, handosme, moderate to high cost, moderate maintenance.
Windows

awning double hang casement fixed jalousie sliding

Doors

flush-surface panel-surface 1976