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september 2012

K-Roads
A Breathtaking Island at the Southernmost End of the Hallyeo Sudo Waterway

Through Mountains and Over the Sea

Somaemuldo

Rediscover the Beauty of Korea with Photographer Kim Jung-man

30 festival 2012 Andong International Maskdance Festival

32 Now in Korea Chuseok Korean Traditional Harvest Celebration

42 Special Issue Real DMZ Project 2012

COVER STORY

Through Mountains and Over the Sea

K-ROADS
The motorways in South Korea have developed the same way as its economy. A courageous first step was taken in the 1960s, the seed of a miracle sprouted in 1970, the growth accelerated in the 1980s, a solid expansion was achieved in the 1990s, and a well-developed network spreading in all directions has been completed in the 2000s. By 2020, a national circular road network with seven horizontal and nine vertical trunks will be completed. This dense grid of roads with a combined length of 6,200 kilometers will make it possible to access an expressway from any part of the country in half an hour, giving motorists even greater ease of travel. Korean roads constructed through mountains and over seas and rivers demonstrate Koreans hopes and growth as well as their desire to connect with one another.

2 korea september 2012

COVER STORY

Roads foR GReen Land and GReen LivestyLe


Most of Koreas terrain consists of mountains, and the country faces the sea and numerous islands and islets in the west, south, and east. Thus, paving a long-distance road often involves drilling through hills and mountains and constructing bridges over water. Since the construction of the Gyeongbu Expressway in the 1970s, many roads have been constructed to connect to every corner of the country in all directions, like the arteries, veins, capillaries of a human body.
by Lee Jeong-eun and Im Sang-bum In cooperation with SMART Highway, SsangYong Engineering and Construction Co., Ltd., Korea Expressway Corporation, and Hyundai Engineering and Construction Co., Ltd.

intestines, since most of its terrain

raditionally the geography of Korea is compared to sheeps

to her hometown, a trip which she

couldnt have even imagined years ago. Although the beeline distance between the two cities is not that great, it used to take at least four hours to go to Mungyeong Saejae, a traditionally From of old, Mungyeong Saejae is a infamous obstacle for travelers. from Seoul to Mungyeong mainly due

Mungyeong wasnt very accessible. However, the construction of the Mungyeong Saejae Tunnel as part of the Jungbu Naeryuk Expressway in 2004 helped cut the travel time between Seoul and Mungyeong in half. Since to the Jungbu Naeryuk Expressway, then more sections have been added scheduled to be completed by the end

Even in more modern times,

is mountainous and scattered with

countless winding mountain paths and numerous rivers and streams. Due to these geographical traits, it took a lot of compared to the relative small size of the country. Today, however, controlled-access

time to travel from one place to another

rugged hill and the first gateway from the Yeongnam region (southeastern region of Korea) toward Seoul.

national highways (expressways),

of this year to run between Yangpyeong near Seoul and Changwon on the south coast of the Korean Peninsula.

general national highways (national

roads), and the local roads of individual metropolitan cities, provinces, cities, and counties run throughout the capillaries of the human body. country like the arteries, veins, and Ms. Baek Myeon-hui, who was

During the Joseon period (1392-1910), examination from the Yeongnam

applicants for the national civil service region had to cross the hill to go to

GYEONGBU EXPRESSWAY AND INDUSTRIALIZATION On July 7, 1970, construction of the two years and five months after

Seoul, a trip that took at least ten days. There are multiples theories about the name of Mungyeong Saejae, one of

Gyeongbu Expressway was completed, breaking ground. The 428-kilometertime between Seoul and Busan from

born in the middle of the country in the town of Mungyeong and now lives in Seoul, frequently returns

which tells us that the jae (lit. hill) is so rugged that even a sae (lit. bird) needs to rest while flying over the hill.

long expressway shortened the travel

The road along the meandering lakeshore of the Okjeongho is full of constantly changing scenery.

4 korea september 2012

COVER STORY

over 15 hours to five and a half.

became the most evident in logistics. was rapidly bulging thanks to the

The benefits of the expressway soon

Namhae, Yeongdong, and Guma

expressways were all constructed in the 1970s; the 88 Olympic Expressway and Jungbu Expressway were completed in Ansan, Seohaean, Jungang, and Seoul Outer Ring expressways all had their groundbreakings in the 1990s.

NO ISLAND IS TOO FAR TO REACH IN A DAY When the dense road network is completed, Sejong Special SelfGoverning City will be at the heart of from any major city in Korea within

where the Gyeongbu KTX Line stops. This network will be both radial and with nearby cities such as Daejeon, Cheongju, and Gongju. circular in order to pursue co-growth

is a top-rated country

when it comes to tunneldrilling technology and bridge construction. The

Back then, the South Korean economy governments first five-year plan for economic development (1962-1966), but the countrys transportation

the 1980s; and the Pangyo-Guri, Singal-

the network and will also be accessible two hours. Sejong City itself, located

within the Korean Peninsula, but also extend off of the coastlines to Koreas off the meandering southern coast where many islands are scattered. numerous islands and islets, especially

The roads of Korea not only stretch

countrys civil engineering market is no longer about cheap labor. Embracing

infrastructure was poor, resulting in a of the Gyeongbu Expressway cleared

chronic logistics issue. The construction that obstacle, accelerating the economic growth of Korea. Real GDP grew at an the 1970s. annual pace of over ten percent during Following the construction of the

Transport and Maritime Affairs and the Korea Expressway Corporation, by 2020 there will be seven trunk

According to the Ministry of Land,

in the center of the Korean Peninsula, is a planned city that will be home to national government ministries and other agencies. The most important the Gyeongbu, Honam, CheonanNonsan, and Daejeon-Dangjin

information technology and environmental technology, Korean civil engineers are 50 meters below sea level

lines going in a north-south direction

and nine trunk lines going in an eastall with a combined length of 6,200

roads that form the road network are

One of the most representative bridges is the Aphae Bridge, which connects Mokpo and the island of Aphaedo, both in the southern province of Jeollanamdo. Opened in 2008, it is a four-lane bridge of a combined length of 3,563 water (1,420 meters), over land (420

now able to connect tunnels within a margin of error of two centimeters and cut a new underground tunnel subway tunnel.

west direction as well as branch roads, kilometers that will cover the country.

Gyeongbu Expressway, the Honam,

expressways, as well as the road that

connects Sejong City to Osong Station

only 15 centimeters below a The opening of the Yi

meters which includes the section over meters), and the connecting section in between the two (1,720 meters). With the completion of the bridge, residents

Sun-sin Bridge earlier this in the history of super

year started a new chapter long-span bridges. A super long-span bridge usually connects an island to land

not only of Aphaedo but also of nearby islands can now travel to Mokpo much more conveniently. There are 40 bridges that connect

or to another island, and the piers is at least 1,000 meters. Typically, the long bridge deck is connected over the

islands to the mainland including the Geogeum Bridge, Gogeum Bridge, and Yi Sun-sin Bridge (a suspension

distance between two bridge


The Yi Sun-sin Bridge is the worlds fourth largest suspension bridge.

bridge that was opened in conjunction with the opening of the Yeosu Expo). Twenty-seven more bridges are under construction including the

sea with steel cables to endure strong

winds and waves, which requires stateof-the-art civil engineering technology. stayed suspension bridge with a The Yi Sun-sin Bridge is a cable-

and the island of Geojedo, helped push Koreas underwater tunnel technology to the next level. The

Saecheonnyeon Bridge, which will

project involved building two cablestayed bridges (3.5 kilometers) and laying an immersed tube tunnel

connect the islands of Amtaedo and Aphaedo, and plans are underway for the construction of 36 additional bridges. By 2020, it will be possible southern coast by car. to travel to all major islands off the

1,545-meter span between the piers. Thats a longer pier span than that of the Golden Gate Bridge in San largest suspension bridge, the

under the sea (3.7 kilometers), which entire construction project. In order to construct the immersed tunnel, tubes 50 meters below sea level

Francisco. Being the worlds fourth Yi Sun-sin Bridge was constructed 100 percent by Daelim Industrial, a Korean company. This made Korea

was the most challenging part of the

engineers had to connect 18 concrete between the islands of Gadeokdo and Jungjukdo. Daewoo E&C, another position-control equipment called and used other cutting-edge civil Korean company, developed precise an external positioning system (EPS)

SMART AND GREEN

TUNNELS AND BRIDGES

Since Korea has numerous mountains to be built in most cases when roads
The Donghaean Expressway stretched out alongside the coastline.

the worlds sixth country that was able to build a suspension bridge entirely on its own. The construction of the Geoga

and islands, tunnels and bridges need are constructed. Thats why Korea

Bridge, which connects Busan

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COVER STORY

engineering techniques combined with the concrete tubes within a margin of error of only two centimeters under constructed in drydock.

information technology in order to link

in the world. Dong Ah Consortium contractors for the first and second

and Korex were the respective primary phases of the Great Manmade River worlds largest single construction

in Malaysia. The longest in Asia,

the bridge applied a new technique

using cables, winning the American Award in 1986.

the sea. The 45,000-ton tubes were first The construction of the Seoul-

(GMR) project in Libya, which is the project. Daelim Industrial signed a South Pars gas field in December

Consulting Engineers Council Grand SsangYong Engineering and

Chuncheon Expressway, which opened in 2009, was a grand project involving laying roads, building 103 bridges, drilling 41 tunnels, and constructing nine interchanges, nine offices, and two rest areas. For the construction of the expressway, a range of eco-

contract for the development of Irans 2010, which is still under way. Besides such grand projects, Korea has also demonstrated superb expertise in the

Construction is also faring well Hotel in Singapore made the

overseas. The Marina Bay Sands companys name known worldwide. in another civil engineering project

SsangYong E&C is currently engaged in Singapore: segment 482 of the fiveconstruction project. The expressway tunnel and partly runs through
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construction of such infrastructure as world.

friendly civil engineering techniques were used. For example, Hyundai company that directed the entire Development Company, the Korean construction process, applied a soilnailing technique from the design stage. Soil nailing helps stabilize unstable natural soil slopes and of construction.

roads and bridges in many parts of the The first Korean construction firm

kilometer Marina Coastal Expressway involves a 3.5-kilometer underground segments of reclaimed flimsy land

a single contractor provides both the

to venture overseas was Hyundai

design and construction services, the 721 million (as of November 2011). the Korean government has also

ROADS LEADING TO THE FUTURE Based on its advanced civil engineering technology, Koreas transportation system is becoming even more

combine a range of new technologies and adapt them to real situations. When it comes to a road, construction isnt the end of the story. The cost of maintenance is also a huge amount of money. Presently, the annual budget stands at about KRW 100 billion, so the country is desperate to develop new technologies to lengthen the to maintain the countrys expressways

Engineering and Construction. In 1966, the company developed Korean-style heavy equipment including rollers and compressors and successfully

contract for Segment 482 is worth USD In addition to the private sector,

and below the seabed. Working on

Segment 482 is especially challenging and requires advanced technology. Being a design-build project where

minimizes the environmental impact

constructed an expressway in Thailand earn the company much money, but it did give it a precious opportunity to

using the equipment. The project didnt

engineering projects overseas. The

been successful in pursuing civil

convenient and valuable for users. The country already launched efforts to build a safer and more eco-friendly transportation environment with a

CIvIL ENGINEERING OF

South Koreas unrivaled civil

KOREA CROSSES BORDERS

acquire advanced technology. Later in 1982-1985, Hyundai E&C constructed the 7,958-meter-long Penang Bridge

engineering technology has proven

1 SsangYong E&C is working on a challenging segment of the Marina Coastal Expressway in Singapore. 2 The Pattani-Narathiwat Highway was constructed by Hyundai E&C in 1966 through the first overseas construction project won by a Korean company. 3 The Penang Bridge in Malaysia, constructed by Hyundai E&C, is famous for being the longest bridge in Asia.

Korea Expressway Corporation, Seoul Engineering Consultants, and Saman Corporation formed a consortium to (PMC) project from the Brunei

Metropolitan Government, Pyunghwa

focus on the users. One such attempt

is a plan to develop a next-generation

win a project management consulting Economic Development Board in

expressway dubbed a smart highway. Combining cutting-edge information and communications technology with advanced automobile and road

lifespan of roads and reduce the cost of maintenance. Fortunately, a new technology has recently come out

to use both the strengths of asphalt and concrete. For the surface layer of the road, asphalt is applied, while for the lower layer, concrete is used to effectively spread the weight of the cars running on the road. This

its value at home and abroad. Korea

started exporting its civil engineering technology in the 1960s and has since seen robust growth. The cumulative price of the construction projects

August this year. It is the first foreign Expressway Corporation has ever

government-funded project the Korea won. The consortium will provide the services for the construction of roads, bridges, and auxiliary facilities to develop Muara Besar Island.

construction technology, the country has of todays expressways and build highly functional smart roads to befit future

been attempting to address the problems

Korean companies have won overseas so far has reached USD 500 billion as of June 2012. Koreas share in the

design, construction, and management

society. Current expressways are not free from traffic jams, accidents, and natural disasters. Moreover, expressways are not fully capitalizing on information

technology is expected to lengthen the lifespan of pavement by more than 20 percent. Another new technology

global market has also grown, jumping from 1.9 percent in 2003 (the worlds seventh). Today, Korea is a global both in name and substance. 12th) to 4.8 percent in 2010 (the worlds power in the civil engineering market Samsung C&T was the primary

a super long-span bridge has drawn the worlds attention, relevant government agencies as well as construction

Since Koreas recent construction of

technology, either. Once realized, smart of traffic information to alleviate traffic jams and thereby ensure a speed of at able to run on eco-friendly and smart and speedily.

uses recycled particles of waste plastic. More specifically, fibers extracted from recycled particles of waste plastic are used to mesh with the asphalt

highways will enable real-time exchange

companies are getting busier. If Koreas manage and maintain infrastructure

capabilities to pioneer new markets and grow even further, Koreans will soon
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least 160 km/h. By 2016, Koreans will be expressways more conveniently, safely, In order to make that dream come

aggregates to make the road less prone to forming cracks. Signing contracts to maintain a 100-kilometer road and a

contractor for Burj Khalifa (828 meters, 160 stories) in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, which is the tallest building
8 korea september 2012

50-kilometer road respectively in China and Russia with this new technology is within sight. Korea also focuses on the
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be paving 21st-century silk roads across the globe.

true, its going to be necessary to

COVER STORY

applied to solar LED traffic signs, which emit light by themselves and improve the driving environment. These signs use solar energy, so they can also be used where a steady power supply

inTERViEw

Dreaming of Smart Highways

SCEniC ROADS OF KOREA

isnt available. They are also easier for than the conventional retroreflective direction from which it comes.

Lee Ui-jun, Head of Construction Planning at the Korea Expressway Corporation


The Korean economy has grown mightily in tandem with the tremendous expansion of the Korean highway system, which began with the construction of the Gyeongbu Expressway in 1968-1970. The total combined length of the countrys highways increased more than 2.5 times from 1,558 kilometers in 1990 to 3,912 kilometers in 2011. KOREA met Mr. Lee Ui-jun, head of Construction and Planning at the Korea Expressway Corporation, which manages 31 of the 32 expressways in Korea as of August 2012. How do you foresee the development of Korean highways in the future?

drivers to read at night or when it rains traffic signs, which return light in the The rest areas along expressways

where travelers can take a break from a long ride are changing, too. These days, they come with a variety of amenities such as gaming facilities
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and shops selling goods for outdoor activities or local specialties. There are also free shower, laundry, and

development of technology to

improve communication and safety.

around the corner, thereby preventing collisions or alleviating the shock from a collision. The application of the technology on accident-prone sections safer and reduced car accidents and related costs. Eco-friendly technology is also of national highways has made driving

changing rooms for truck drivers, who tend to be exhausted from long drives. and more rest areas in Korea offer In addition to such functionality, more aesthetic value with their structures as they blend with the surrounding environment.

The Ministry of Land, Transport and Maritime Affairs selects proven new transportation technologies, applies

them to actual roads and automobiles, and protects them for a certain period of time. In 2009, the ministry selected a fourth new transportation technology, an open roadside guardrail that secures wider views for drivers and is stronger than existing W-beam guardrails.

Technology for roads is powerful. It not only ensures safer and creates changes in lifestyle, more convenient travel but also facilitates economic growth,

These guardrails are installed along the last lane of a road and help the driver to better see the part of the road thats

1 Keumkang Rest Area commands the whole view of Keumkang River. 2, 3 The Deokpyeong Rest Area has and a food court with tasteful decor and men's restroom where the video game players are installed.4 A sign that indicates Highway Rest Stop

and helps people connect better.


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Korea has led and will continue to lead the way in road technology.

I have high expectations of smart highways, ubiquitous, state-of-the-art expressways of the future that incorporate cutting-edge road, information, and automobile technology in order to provide real-time traffic information that ensures delay-free, traffic congestion-free travel and that makes driving safer even in the midst of inclement weather. New traffic management techniques will be introduced to ease traffic congestion even further. Korean highways will also become more eco-friendly. For example, more active use of the hi-pass toll collection system will reduce the time taken for cars to pass tollgates and thereby curtail the emissions of harmful gases. What is the particular feature of Korean highways?

Coastal Route on National Road 77

The Ministry of Land, Transport and Maritime Affairs has selected roads that them are as follows:

command beautiful scenery and also have historic and cultural value. The best of

Coastal Route on National Road 7

There is a beautiful section on National Road 7 that runs along the coastline and catches the travelers eyes and heart. At first it runs straight, then it snakes all along the coastline of the city of Samcheok, stretching 24.3 kilometers between the Wolcheon and Gungchon regions of Samcheok.

A Riverside Route on Local Road 391

Korean highways will create more value than just functioning as channels of transportation. A case in point is highway rest areas. There are 172 highway rest areas in Korea, and they are more than places for taking a break from a long drive. They are luxurious and entertaining in their own ways to meet the choosy tastes of the Koreans. Different rest areas will have different themes, and prestigious brand shops will open within them. Highway rest areas are becoming increasingly multifunctional places where people can rest, shop, enjoy cultural activities, and even handle their business and personal matters.

The 11.9-kilometer-long section between Jaraseom Island and Cheongpyeongho Lake in Gapyeong, Gyeonggi-do is a breathtaking driving course. Being a part of Local Road 391, the route passes the islands of Jaraseom and Namiseom, and runs along the shore of Cheongpyeongho. In spring, cherry blossoms adorn the route; in summer, water leisure activities beckon drivers; in autumn, leaves turn color amid jazz music; and in winter, ice fishing and the snowy landscapes attract anglers and travelers.

Lakeside Route on Local Road 749

The lake of Okjeongho in Imsil, Jeollabuk-do, is famous for its wet fog in spring and autumn. While driving on Local Road 749, its a good idea to pull your car up on the shoulder of the road where you can get a commanding and serene view of the lake. The remaining path along the meandering lakeshore of the Okjeongho is full of constantly changing scenery.

Coastal Route on National Road 77

The five-kilometer-long section on National Road 77 between Baeksu and Daesin in Jeollanam-do is especially beautiful during the spring and summer, as both sides of the route stretching along sea cliffs become a sea of pink sweetbriers.
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10 korea september 2012

PEN AND BRUSH

A Cosmopolitan Communicator

Cartoonist rhie Won-bok


by Wi Tack-whan / photographs by Lee Min-hee

Rhie Won-bok is a cartoonist who freely transcends the boundaries between the Occidental and the Oriental as well as the classical and the modern. Lets take a short trip into the world of cartoons with this cosmopolitan communicator.

hie does not consider creating cartoons

with determining the content. Then come

work but play. Creating a cartoon begins

relate important information. This technique when he began authoring the famous series

seems to be becoming more widely used, but comic book Meonnara Iunnara (lit. Far Countries,

the drawings to convey the content. He has

no story writers or the like working for him,

and doing both storytelling and drawing is a

Neighbor Countries) in the 1980s, the technique was entirely new, but it was a brilliant stroke because it enabled a didactic purpose of conveying knowledge and information and also the narrative element of storytelling.

challenge. Still, the world of cartoons is Rhies playground. When he works on a cartoon, his thought process assumes a life of its own and his avocation becomes his avid hobby. He is thankful to have such a fulfilling life. who made Korean cartoons (manhwa)

Rhie is widely noted as one of the cartoonists

cartoonists before they make a debut, but Rhies debut was different. Rhie was born to a poor family in Daejeon,

Most Korean cartoonists train under popular

educational and communicative, and not merely entertaining. His cartoons effectively convey knowledge and information, and reading them

1946. He was the youngest of seven children. school, then the best high school in Korea,

When he was in his first year at Kyunggi High an editor of the Kids Hankook Ilbo, a daily for him to draw cartoons for the newspaper. In

is not a waste of time in any way. He shares his readers.

knowledge, information, and opinions with his Cartoons by Rhie are unlike any other

children, noticed his drawing talent and asked 1963, he serially ran such cartoons as Ivanhoe, The Adventures of Marco Polo, and Uncle Toms Cabin in mimicry of American comic books. After graduation, he entered Seoul National

in that they employ a unique storytelling

technique. Rhie appears in his cartoons as the narrator to intervene when necessary and

12 korea september 2012

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University Department of Architecture.

a hill and leading a romantic life when I entered college, recalls the cartoonist. Oh my! What awaited me were blueprints, integration, I had to study the subjects I hated most It ultimately turned out that I could not instead.

I imagined building a white, fancy house on

brought a seismic change to his cartoons. He and he drew the cover of the special issue Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung, a national

ran comics and posters in German newspapers, that celebrated the 150th anniversary of the German newspaper. After he returned from Europe where he experienced the continent mainly as a resident rather than as a traveler, he started to serially run Meonnara Iunnara about Kingdom, Switzerland, and Italy in the Kids the Netherlands, France, Germany, the United Hankook Ilbo in 1981. This series incorporated his knowledge about the yesterday and today of these six European countries as well as his experiences there. The series also applies such knowledge in looking into Korea, his the series totaled 15 million copies. six European countries, Rhie put forth volumes on Japan, Following the volumes on the motherland. As of 2012, the cumulative sales of

then, one will be able to read world through his cartoons.

about the history of the entire He has been collecting all the the content for the series by himself. Rhie doesnt consider

role is to translate culture, explains Rhie. the language of cartoons.

In other words, I translate culture through His guiding principle for content is a four-

information and authoring all

including mathematics. So, I just drew cartoons. graduate, so I left the country to study abroad Rhie attended Seoul National University

simple and clear). He believes that knowledge and information are themselves simple and clear, but people smother them with difficult interpretations to make them seem abstruse. Limiting the number of interpretations and important process, which involves putting together seemingly complicated things to thereby revealing their hidden essence is an

syllable word in Korean: dan-sun-myeong-ryo (lit.

himself a creator of content,

but a communicator of content. He believes that his cartoons, classified as gyoyang manhwa (informative and didactic

for six years, but failed to meet the attendance requirements. He dropped out and flew to Mnster in Land Nordrhein-Westfalen,

Germany in 1975. There, he started all over

cartoons) in Korea, should be than on the drawings. He says that the content gyoyang manhwa. more focused on the content

produce a plain generalization. This sounds not so difficult, but actually requires considerable intellectual self-confidence. Thus, he says, You

again as a freshman. He earned Diplom-Designer (lit. qualified designer) degrees in commercial and masters degrees in arts and philosophy from Westflische Wilhelms-Universitt in Mnster. design and western art history and philosophy,

is more than twice as important as drawings in This might sound arrogant, but I feel my

need to believe that everything in the world has you to the interpretation of the thing.

a key word without exception, and this will lead

in the nature of his cartoons. Previously,

His time in Germany marks a clear break

the United States of America, China, and Korea. A volume end of this year. He plans to author volumes on South American countries and African countries over the next three years. By on Spain will come out by the

Rhie sought fun; afterwards, he pursued

INtERvIEw wItH CARtooNISt RHIE woN-Bok

communication of knowledge. His earlier

cartoons encompassed a variety of genres

including sports cartoons, myeongnang manhwa cartoons). The ten years he spent in Europe

(funny cartoons), and sunjeong manhwa (romantic

How did you get into cartoons in the first place? I was an invisible student. I was mainly drawing cartoons in class. Much of my childhood was just after the Korean War. My parents were too busy earning a living, and nobody paid attention to me. I didnt benefit much from my parents, but I enjoyed unlimited freedom, which allowed me to disappear into my own world. Your cartoons seem to attempt communication between different civilizations, and also between the past and present, dont they? Yes, they do. Before I lived in Europe, I thought Korean ideas and opinions were universal. My life in Europe pulled me out of my fixed ideas. The concept of global felt novel and marvelous. Europe is home to numerous cultures, and co-existence is an integral part of life. Europe does have its problems, but after all, communication is about looking at yourself objectively through others. Do you have a mentor? I decided to study abroad in order to properly learn about cartoons and also to change my drawing style, but there were no university programs about cartoons even in Europe. It seemed to me that the next best thing was to study illustration. By the time I had been in Europe for six years, I was able to draw on substantial experience and knowledge of Europe and also of Astrix, a series of comic books, considered one of

the best European cartoon works ever done. I was shocked that German colleges use Astrix series as teaching material for French literature. I applied my new cartoon structure and drawing style to Meonnara Iunnara. I wanted to tell about the basics about European civilization in an easily accessible fashion through the comic book. The series Meonnara Iunnara has a message about globalization and an open world.

Meonnara Iunnara, translated into Japanese in 2001, and then subsequently into English, Chinese, Taiwanese, and Thai. Saero Mandeun Meonnara Iunnara, a new version of Meonnara Iunnara, is an account of world history that sheds light on the Orient and the Occident from the view of Occidental values, not from the Western view of history

What do you think your cartoons are ultimately about? In a word, it is mun-sa-cheol (literature, history, and philosophy). The 21st century is an era of information. The most basic things that we need to know in the midst of the flood of information are literature, history, and philosophy. So, the cartoon subjects I addressed were on the continuum of munsacheolSinui Nara, Inganui Nara (lit. Countries of Gods, Countries of Humans) on myths and religions, Gojeon Manhae (lit. Wild Interpretation of Classics) and Capitalism and Communism on philosophy, and The Global Economy in the Era of Globalization on economics. Now, I will draw cartoons on globalization. An obsession with pure-blood nationalism blocks communication. The Roman Empire and Spain thrived when they accepted foreign cultures. Their declines began when the popular mood shifted to pure-blood nationalism. We need to respect foreign cultures.

14 korea september 2012

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PEoPLE

Rediscover the Beauty of Korea with

PhotograPher kim Jung-man


by Yang In-sil / photographs by Mun Deok-gwan

An artist who captures the beauty of Koreas nature, a sentimental record keeper of Dokdo, a friend of the environment. There are many ways to describe him, but there is only one Kim Jung-man, photographer.

here is probably not even one of Koreas

for his camera. He has travelled all over the magazinesKorean and foreignwanted

top actors and actresses who hasnt posed

squalid and messy, but still view it humanly

with an affectionate, warm heart. Perhaps its

globe to capture scenic views. Famous fashion to work with him. His name had become an icon. Kim Jung-man was a world-renowned of celebrities. commercial photographer, a free soul, a friend He was flying high as a commercial

because youre ready to be awed as a traveler, you see a rural area or a deserted house in

says the photographer. But, as a Korean, when Korea, you simply turn your eyes and ignore it. Theres nothing like an affectionate, warm heart. Working on the Korean Rediscovery Project, I found Korea extremely beautiful.

photographer, but suddenly he declared his intention to quit and put down his camera. subjects. Time passed. He came back with That meant no more gorgeous images of his unexpected photos, documenting every nook seem to fit with the photographer Kim Jung-

Koreas nature has everything but deserts. Its

the perfect subject for photography. Of course, Africa is good for taking photos, but you need to drive 20 hours for any good scenery. In

Korea, however, two hours are enough for you to see different landscapes, foods, lifestyles, I didnt know that Korea comes with such a and architecture, and hear different dialects. complete assortment of wonderful elements. I had looked at my own country with a cold,

and cranny of Korea. These new photos didnt man as we knew him. However, we soon came rediscover Kim Jung-man as a photographer. KOREAN REDISCOVERY PROJECT

to rediscover Korea through his photos and also

I felt ashamed of myself because I realized that indifferent heart. My heart became filled with a strong desire to fully capture this beauty of my mysterious country.

Kim has been taking photos for 38 years. Five started traveling to every corner of Korea to

years ago, he quit commercial photography and capture its beauty. He recalls that when he first started what he calls the Korean Rediscovery Project, he felt so ashamed of himself.

STUBBORNLY CLINGING TO ESSENCES Not long ago, Kim went to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) in order to take photos to be exhibited at the fourth DMZ Korean

an underdeveloped country, you feel like its


16 korea september 2012

When you travel through a poor village in

International Documentary Festival (DMZ

DOCS). He stayed there for a week, but he failed


17

PEoPLE

Japanese photographers are not allowed to set foot on, says Kim. With a sense of mission as a Korean photographer, I decided to participate in the project in order to let the photos that reflect Koreans love for it and

Dokdo is the only part of Korean territory

a Dokdo photo exhibition some day. When that day comes, he will say that his works were just a small beginning of the movement. KEEP NATURE AS IT IS

of his life journey should be discovering Korea.

about confirming his roots and When he works, Kim is Because I want to win, he

world know how beautiful Dokdo is through also to leave grounds for Koreas territorial sovereignty over it for future generations. He started in the summer of 2012 documenting

The spectrum of his activities as a photographer DMZ, patients suffering from disease and their families, soldiers whove sacrificed themselves for their motherland, and the environment.

ferocious and combatant.

is wide. The beauty of Koreas nature, Dokdo, the

explains. This is another type of war. You hold your camera and jump into a fierce battle

all-compassing themes including the four seasons on Dokdo as well as the flora and fauna located there. He plans to take photographs of Dokdo with artistic or documentary value. Kim feels a certain strong power when

He served as a so-called Eco Friend for the 2012

to win. You jump into the 200-

Green Film Festival in Seoul (GFFIS). He is concerned is still serious.

year history of photography as

that Koreas insensitivity to environmental issues His experience with Africa awoke him to

a Korean. There are many good things about Korea, but theyve yet to be recognized. In order young photographers with be there. to overcome the present, more Korean spirit and passion should Kim Jung-man repeatedly

standing on Dokdo. He hopes to be an objective record-keeper and also a literary and lyrical middle of a vast ocean in absolute solitude, enduring harsh climate and unfavorable writer of the Dokdo islets, which stand in the

environmental issues. One day, he went to a

national park on Mt. Kilimanjaro in Africa and became awestruck at the open green field with an endlessly stretching horizon. Ten years later, he returned to the field with a throbbing heart only to find theres now only desert where not even a handful of grass can grow. Kim has been traveling all over the world to

geographical conditions. He believes creating or composing a poem will eventually wield boiling and responding with indignation.
1 1 Chosun Dynasty.Tamla Valley.Halla Mt.Jeju Island. Korea.2011 2 Will You Remember Me? Hong-yu-dong Valley.Haein Temple.Gyeongsangnam-do. Korea.2008

emphasizes that Koreans have a

3 3 A Way to Seolak Mt. Gangwon-Do. Korea. 2008 4 The Moon Beautiful Dead Place on Earth.Deadvlei. Namib Desert. Namibia. 2007

each shot of Dokdo freely as if writing a novel more power in protecting Dokdo than simply He hopes that more Koreansprofessional

craving for beauty in their genes.

It will be good if non-professionals take beautiful photos of beautiful things and photos of things that are not beautiful, suggests Kim. professional photographers take beautiful

take photos, and the more he travels, the more he realizes how blessed and beautiful Koreas nature is. This realization makes him more desperate to protect this beautiful land for generations to come.

photographers and the general public alike will photograph Dokdo from their vantage points and put together all the photos to hold

to acquire any photo that reveals the essence which he intended to capture. The vivid,

of his subject with an unfamiliar, raw feeling, unprotected state of the DMZ was something

at an unimaginable pace, deplores Kim. If


th

The environment is being contaminated

about photography with photos asks, Isnt photography the most powerful means of communication?

This photographer who wants to talk

unattainable. He refused to work any longer for the festival and left despite all the complicated and the authorities eventually caved in and procedures to work in the DMZ. He stayed firm, removed the shackles that limited his creative process. Only then did he become immersed excitement. in his work and start to press the shutter with

of the environment and economies. If we fail to take better care of the

economies, the 21st century is a century

the 20 century was a century of humans and

environment right now, challenges even more dreadful than climate change will soon storm us.

KOREA AND MY ROOTS

Only during his mid-50s did he begin to ponder his identity and his roots. These questions drove him into deep agony and rigorous soul-searching. Now he

THE FOUR SEASONS ON DOKDO

Kim photographs every corner of the Dokdo

islets throughout the four seasons of the year as part of a co-project by the Korea Coast Guard build a database of Dokdo photos.
18 korea september 2012

projects the questions into his photos. The conclusion he has reached is that
2

and the Northeast Asian History Foundation to

at least photography is an absolutely pure entity to him and that the rest

19

GREAt koREAN

after he cut his teeth as a practitioner, Chang had a life-changing encounter with a naive and helpless elderly lady. The woman believed that if only the doctor would touch her with a stethoscope, she would be healed, so she

fix an error procedure textbook

in a surgical

requested Dr. Chang touch her chest with his stethoscope. He made up his mind to devote his life to the poor and weak and those who could not receive proper treatment. While he was teaching at Kim Il-sung

that he had

authored. His

life committed

to poor patients was recognized in 1979 by the Ramon Award for

University, the Korean War broke out. Chang defected to the South with his second son, leaving behind his other five children and a ramshackle hut to provide free medical

Magsaysay Public Service. he breathed his last breath, he small rooftop room. In the 49.5 m2 room was living in a
3 1 Dr. Chang Kee-ryo in the 1950s 2 Dr. Chang Kee-ryo performs a herniotomy as a door-to-door medical service. 3 Dr. Chang Kee-ryo receives the Ramon Magsaysay Award in 1979. 4 A photo of Dr. Chang Keeryo (left in black suit) with his colleagues at Kyongsong Medical College

his wife. In the South, he opened a clinic in services. That was the beginning of Gospel

By the time

Hospital where he served with all his strength for 25 years. Poor patients flocked to the clinic from all over the country. The clinic was

A Surgeon Who Was Called a Fool

chronically awash in red ink, so finally he had to delegate to the staff the authority to decide whether to treat certain patients for free.
1

Dr. Chang kee-ryo


by Lim Sang-beom / photographs by Min Gi-won

Chang regularly didnt pay himself, and still paying their medical fees.

were a photo of him and his wife, his glasses, and a worn-out white medical gown, all of which were a testimony to his simple life. Living for others, he lived a lonely life.

secretly helped poor patients run away without Chang founded the Blue Cross Medical

With love and commitment, he helped and treated numerous people and left behind stories of big and small miracles of love. Lets retrace the life of Dr. Chang Kee-ryo.

Cooperative, the nations first-ever medical cooperative, in 1968, a decade before the government introduced a national medical

He must have missed his wife and the five When given the chance to meet his family

children he had left behind in North Korea. in the North, he yielded the opportunity to age of 84 in 1995, he became a symbol of humility and love for others.

insurance program. The cooperative was an that volunteer work alone cannot address.

attempt to solve the socio-structural problem Although a purely private medical insurance

somebody else. When he passed away at the

In cooperation with the Chang Kee-ryo Memorial Foundation

hen Yi Kwang-su (1892-1950), a pioneer of modern Korean literature, authored

weak, but also treated everyone the same way the same table with a beggar who came to his hesitation.

program, the Blue Cross Medical Cooperative had as many as 230,000 members. He didnt remain sentimental in serving

his novel Sarang (lit. Love), he modeled his

regardless of their status and wealth. He ate at house and gave him his paychecks without any Chang was born in Yongcheon, Pyonganbuk-

protagonist after Dr. Chang Kee-ryo, whom people called a sage or a fool. Chang had many other nicknamesthe fool-doctor, his commitment to being a true medical and the little Jesusall of which describe doctor and devout Christian. His nicknames also tell us what kind of life he lived, for the good of other people.

society. Although he was already recognized as a competent surgeon, he studied with graduate school students in order to catch up on up-to-date medical breakthroughs. to the development of medicine in Korea. Through such efforts, he greatly contributed He succeeded in performing the first partial hepatectomy and massive hepatic resection in Korea in 1943 and 1959 respectively. When he was hospitalized due to a

do, which is today part of North Korea, on August 14, 1911 by the lunar calendar. He

studied medicine at the Kyongsong Medical

College, which later merged with Kyongsong

and skills for people who were poor and


20 korea september 2012

Chang not only used his medical knowledge

University Faculty of Medicine to become Seoul National University College of Medicine, and graduated summa cum laude in 1932. Shortly

cerebrovascular disease, he sent a letter to

21

SEoUL

A Treasure Hunt at Dapsimni Antique Shopping Center


If you are looking for traditional embroidery from the royal palaces or a thousand-year-old wine jar, Dapsimni Antique Shopping Center is the place to go.
by Chung Da-young / photographs by Lee Min-hee

here would you go if you were looking for a porcelain tea cup or a traditional

traditional crafts worked side-by-side for years. However, rising rent began to force out small business owners in the early 1980s when the area became a popular tourist destination. They then searched for a new area and

chest with brass butterfly hinges from the

Joseon era (1392-1910)? An expert in Korean

1 The small alleys of the Antique Shopping Center are filled with antiquities. 2 Shops at building 5 specialize in Korean antiques.

antiques would advise you to visit Dapsimni part of central Seoul. Built in 1983, Dapsimni Antique Shopping Center is among Koreas

Antique Shopping Center in the northeastern

eventually found their way to Dapsimni for from Seouls other antique neighborhoods arcade, and Dapsimni Antique Shopping Center eventually came into being.

its low rent and excellent location. Merchants also began to slowly gather at the Dapsimni

largest antique outlets, housing more than 150 shops in three buildings within the Samhui Apartment Complex. A sign just outside Dapsimni Subway Station points the way.

long the leading antiques market in the entire city. There, antiquities dealers and artisans of
22 korea september 2012

The Insa-dong area in downtown Seoul was

2, 5, and 6 of the Samhui Apartment Complex, building 2 specialize in antiques and artifacts

The antique shops are located in buildings

and each specializes in certain items. Shops in

23

SEoUL

from China, Tibet, and Mongolia, while

building 5 houses shops that feature items from both China and Korea. The shops in building works of the Joseon period. 6 only deal in Korean antiques and calligraphy

for antiques, so we try to help them choose by

First-time visitors have a hard time shopping

telling them the history and origin of individual items, says Kim So-young, the owner of Yangju Sanghoe in building 6. She inherited the shop from her parents, who moved to Dapsimni in the early 1980s. Her shop is full of charming crafts and

Hand-embroidered items from the Joseon period are always popular among shoppers.

TREASURES FROM THE PAST

The narrow passageways on the first floor


The owner of Yangju Sanghoe surrounded by her treasures

of building 6 are lined cheek-by-jowl with

shops crammed to the ceiling with traditional furniture and other antique items. The sheer the shopper dazed and wondering where to and knowledgeable shop owners are more looking for. Many of the shop owners are mass and variety are overwhelming, leaving look first. Of course, the extremely welcoming than willing to help you find what you are members of the Korean Antiques Association

everyday items from the Joseon Dynasty. stacked neatly inside glass cabinets, and

Colorful traditional embroidered pillows are rows of pyeonteul (small wooden stands used in ancestral rites) line the walls. Antiques can always be used for new purposes. Our building 6 specializes in specific antiques. Joo Im-sang, the owner of a shop named Daeyoung, only deals in precious rare ceramics and earthenware. He has pieces from the fourth century (the Three Kingdoms period), celadon from the Goryeo period (918-1392), and porcelain from the Joseon period. His

customers dont buy the pyeonteul for its original purpose, but rather buy several of them to stack together as an interior decoration. My shop has ladies in the past, and I receive many Japanese (Korean traditional quilts).

and have the professional knowledge and skills kindly explain the story behind what makes an antique unique.

a lot of traditional handcrafts made and used by customers who come especially to look for bojagi Like Kim, each of the shop owners in

oldest piece is a 2,500-year-old stone hammer association.

needed to properly appraise antiques. They will

head. Joo also leads the centers shop owners With all its charm and treasures, the Dapsimni

Antique Shopping Center is, however, losing

its buzz of the past. Joo says that business has been slow in recent years. Twenty years ago, we had enthusiasts like professional collectors But these days, its mostly tourists. Thats why together to work with the Seoul Metropolitan Government to improve the center. The Seoul Metropolitan Government is

and university professors coming to the shops. the antique merchants in Dapsimni are getting

planning to renovate the center later this year

and promote the center to Seoulites and tourists people will hear about the center and come open, so feel free to come and take a look around.

alike. Through the new changes, we hope more to the shops, says Joo. Our doors are always

ANtIQUE SHoPPING CENtER INFoRMAtIoN


Opening hours 9:30 am 7:00 pm, closed on Sundays Directions Dapsimni Subway Station, line No 5, exit No 2. Turn left from exit No 2 and follow the signs of Dapsimni Antique Shopping Center until you reach the Samhui Apartment complex.

Korean traditional locks

Celadon from the Goryeo period are popular among collectors.

24 korea september 2012

25

tRAvEL

A Breathtaking Island at the Southernmost End of the Hallyeo Sudo Waterway

somaemulDo
by Lee Jeong-eun / photographs by Moon Duk-gwan

The soaring cliffs have been sculpted for eons by strong winds and waves into fantastic formations that are gently draped in a veil of fog. The mysterious scene is utterly breathtaking and will leave you in absolute awe.

1 The path to Deungdaeseom Island reveals itself only twice a day, at low tide. 2 The murals are now one of the most popular tourism destinations.

omaemuldo is a small, lushly wooded island surrounded by a turquoise colored sea

and popular tourism destination thats full of

under an azure sky. Standing on the island, you will feel as if youve been dyed in greenish and bluish tones. Close to the island is a small islet on which a lighthouse stands. Its picturesque landscape brings travelers here every season. Geojedo, the second largest island in Korea, or Tongyeong, which has long been dubbed the Naples of Korea. If you go to Tongyeong, a must-visit is You can get to Somaemuldo by boat from

beautiful art, the best of all village of murals in Korea. Tongyeong Port as seen from the top of the village is also quite sublime. At the top of Dongpirang is a co-op store

called Dongpirang Gupanjang. On the menu are juices, brewed coffee, and cappuccino, among other beverages, and sitting in the store is an

old lady who looks remotely like a barista. So, else, like misutgaru (a mixture of roasted rice

if youre a picky coffee aficionado, try something and other grains or a beverage made by mixing the powder with water). Its cool with a homey and nutty taste. Your reporter boards a ferry in Tongyeong.

Dongpirang, a village located on a slope

facing the sea. Its name literally means eastern precipice. It was once a poor ramshackle cluster of some 50 small houses, but in 2007

artists joined forces to protect the village from the walls, fences, chimneys, stairs, and every other reasonable surface. They succeeded in preserving the village, sparking a frenzy of
1

After the boat cleaves through the water for an hour and a half, the captain notifies his

redevelopment and started painting murals on

passengers of their arrival at Somaemuldo. The voice of the skipper sounds like an earthen pot cracking and breaking. Despite the fact that it

decorating villages with murals throughout the country. Dongpirang has now become a pretty

is a weekday, the pier is crowded. As the island has attracted more and more travelers over the years, its once wavy cobbled paths are now

26 korea september 2012

27

tRAvEL

covered by cement, and lodging facilities and restaurants have pushed old houses aside. On the way to Deungdaeseom Island, by a

WAVES BREAKING WHITE ON THE SEA CLIFFS Hiking up a little further from the elementary school will bring you to a trail that leads to Deungdaeseom Island. Walking on the trail is camellias and silver magnolias before setting foot on the islet. The waves of the deep blue

path that was once covered with stones, is a

village. The path was originally steep enough

to be a challenge for most walkers, but now that it is covered with cement, it inclines even more. the cement ends and the path reverts back to When your reporter starts puffing and panting, its cobbled dirt track from of old. Dilapidated,
1 The grassy plain of Somaemuldo is whipped by the wind. 2 The view of Somaemuldo 3 A stall selling seaweed and dried anchovies in Somaemuldo

an absolute joy as youll pass through groves of

sea break asunder into white foam when they

slate-roofed houses, white bed-and-breakfast stone walls, and a closed elementary school remain with the cobbled paths in this old village, unlike the harbor below.

smash against the sheer, dizzily tall cliffs. The winds. Your reporter becomes besotted with Ireland.

homes bearing wall paintings, partly crumbled

grassy plain turns and rolls as whipped by the the scenery as if she were on a hill by the sea in The trail ends by the seashore where a

mysterious 100-meter path called Mongdol Gil (lit. path of round stones) starts. Also dubbed path), the path is almost always undersea, Yeolmokgae (lit. opening path or fragile-neck revealing itself only twice a day, at low tide. At is Deungdaeseom Island. Your reporter walks up the wooden stairs for about ten minutes to the lighthouse. The lighthouse was built when Korea was

the other end of the path, as you would expect, along the 70-meter Yeolmokgae path and then

Bawi (lit. turtle rock), and Chotdae Bawi (lit. buffeted by the waves of the deep blue sea. the harbor of Somaemuldo to reach

candlestick rock)line the coastline, their feet It will take roughly an hour and a half from

you would like to experience life on the island at a home of the native islanders rather than a modern lodging facility.

to the fullest. In fact, you may also want to stay

The boat for Somaemuldo can be boarded at the Tongyeong pier.

under Japanese colonial rule. It is a white,

circular-shaped concrete structure 16 meters in height. It uses large Fresnel lenses that project its beam as far as 48 kilometers out to sea,
1

Deungdaeseom Island by foot, but its a

challenge. The picturesque scenery along the way to the islet of the white lighthouse will surely slow you down. The walk typically takes four hours, so one of the best ways to journey through Somaemuldo and Deungdaeseom early in the morning from Tongyeong

autumn, if you long to see an indigo blue sea scattered with islets and walk leisurely on a then go to Tongyeong and hop on a boat for Somaemuldo. plain thats swept by fresh winds off the sea,

At this time of year when summer yields to

making it a reliable guide for the numerous Peninsula.

ships that round the southern tip of the Korean The coastline of the islet seen from the

Island is to catch the first boat for Somaemuldo or Geojedo and slip out of the harbor of

tRAvEL INFoRMAtIoN
what to eat Chungmu Gimbap If you go to Somaemuldo via Tongyeong, its highly recommended that you to try chungmu gimbap in the port city of Tongyeong. Thumb-sized rolls of rice wrapped in sheets of seaweed called gim are served with crunchy seokbakji (a kind of radish kimchi) and seasoned squid. There are many restaurants that sell the dish around the Tongyeong Ferry Terminal. Among them, Ttungbo Halmae Gimbap, Eomma Son Chungmu Gimbap, Samdae Chungmu Halmae Gimbap, Hanil Gimbap, and Yennal Chungmu Kkoji Gimbap are especially renowned. how to get there Take a ferry from the Tongyeong Ferry Terminal. The ferry runs six times a day from 7 am to 4 pm, and takes one and a half hours.

lighthouse is beyond description. Rocks of all formsYong Bawi (lit. dragon rock), Geobuk

Somaemuldo on the last boat departing from emerging path to and from Deungdaeseom Somaemuldo and the lighthouse islet.

the island. Then, youll be able to walk on the Island and have a leisurely look around both If you would like to bask in the serene

Seoul

twilight that paints the sea and sky glowing red tones, you should stay one night on the island. Small and remote from the peninsula, living such as tap water, modern appliances,
2 3

you shouldnt expect the conveniences of urban and so forth, but it is highly recommended if

Tongyeong Somaemuldo
29

28 korea september 2012

FEStIvAL

composed of artists of different ages, genres, through the common medium of the mask. HERITAGE RECREATED

and nationalities, but they come together as one

FEStIvAL INFoRMAtIoN
Date Sept 28 - Oct 7 Venue Maskdance Theater and Hahoe Village, Andong Admission fees (for the Maskdance Theater): On-site KRW 5,000 for adults; KRW 4,000 for students and children Pre-booking KRW 4,000 for adults; KRW 2,000 for students and children * Email webmaster@ maskdance.com for ticket reservations. How to get there: Bus From Seoul, take a bus at Dongbu Seoul Bus Terminal Station (Dong Seoul Bus Terminal Station on Subway Line 2) to Andong. From Andongs Express Bus Terminal, you can walk to Maskdance Park: turn left at the terminal, and then go straight for about 15 minutes. To get to Hahoe Village, take bus 46 across the street from Andong Station. Train Take the train from Cheongnyangni Station in Seoul to Andong Station. Visit www.korail.com for train schedule. * For more information visit www.maskdance. com.

The festival first began in 1997 to recreate

and preserve the regions traditional cultural has become rich with socio-historical and

heritage. Over the past two millennia, Andong religious heritage from different periods. It is a city of rich cultural and historical heritage such as Hahoe Folk Village, as well as the center of famous Andong traditional games involves two teams of hundreds of men COLORFUL FESTIVAL
2

and performances such as Chajeon Nori (which competing together), Notdari Bapgi (a female demonstration of a funeral ceremony). This

The Andong Festival Tourism Foundation seeks to make the festival even more dynamic and colorful every year by organizing it around years festival is The Festival of Adorable

version of Chajeon Nori), and Haengsang Nori (a heritage is the basis of the Andong International Maskdance Festival, and all of it is recreated at the event along with other masked performances, both traditional and modern.

new themes and programs. The theme of this Devils. Cute and devilish icons that can be

seen in all cultures will materialize through

the diverse masked performances. The stories Western folklore such as the Korean gumiho

of the different devil characters in Eastern and (nine-tailed fox) or the Western vampire will festival.

performers and the audience in Korean

There is no separation between the

2012 Andong International Maskdance Festival


Traditional and modern dance groups from the East and West come from far and wide to perform heart-pounding maskdances at the Andong International Maskdance Festival, and you can be a part of the performances.
by Chung Da-young / photographs provided by Andong Festival Tourism Foundation

traditional folk performances. The performers are on the same floor as the audience, so naturally the spectators become part of the

be recreated on different stages throughout the One of the highlights of the festival will

dance. All Korean dances at the festival are

be the Daedong Nanjang Parade. Visitors and performers will all wear masks of different shapes and colors and dance to the music. Men and women of all ages are invited to take part the festival. in what is considered the most exciting part of

performed this way, making the festival an even greater draw. Performers often spontaneously play with the spectators, inviting them to participate.

renowned as the center of culture and folk tradition with deep roots in Confucianism

he city of Andong, located in the province

of Gyeongsangbuk-do, is most traditionally

when thousands of people from all over the music festivities.

world gather together to enjoy the dance and The Andong International Maskdance

and Shamanism. Its also home to Hahoe Folk

Village, the most well-known traditional village in Korea. The village was even inscribed on the and conservative city becomes the center of UNESCO World Heritage List in 2010. This quiet traditional and modern culture every autumn
30 korea september 2012

Festival will celebrate its 16th annual fiesta for ten days from September 28 to October 7, at the Maskdance Park in downtown Andong and Hahoe Village. More than 150 amateur
1 The Talchum performance at last years festival 2 More than ten dance teams from abroad will take part this year. 3 The festival is enjoyed by visitors from all nationalities.

dance teams and 20 professional teams from

Korea and abroad will take part. The teams are

31

koREAN HoLIDAYS

Korean Traditional Harvest Celebration

charye table full of foods made with freshly harvested rice and other grains, seasoned among other foods. greens, freshly harvested fruits, and songpyeon, Chuseok is also meaningful because it is a

Chuseok
C

On Chuseok, Koreans thank their ancestors for the years harvest through a ritual called charye by offering them newly harvested grains and fruits on the table and having a fun time, especially with family and relatives. by Lee Jeong-eun

time for far-flung families and relatives to gather together and take a break from their overbusy lives. As Korean society industrialized,

traditional rituals and events were simplified or simply disappeared into history. Yet, families CUSTOMS OF CHUSEOK and relatives still gather together in their Chuseok features a variety of customs for the huseok is often compared to Thanksgiving Day in the United States as it is also a day

hometowns, and the traffic before, during, and after Chuseok causes a veritable migration known as the great national move.
2

of expressing thanks for the years harvests, It falls on August 15 by the lunar calendar,

although Chuseok has a much longer history. therefore on a different day each year by the

celebration of abundance. Some are solemn like charye (a ritual to thank ones ancestors for the but all involve tasty food. years harvests) and some are fun and exciting, Koreans prepare foods including songpyeon

CHUSEOK WITHOUT SONGPYEON IS NOT CHUSEOK Around Chuseok, food ingredients abound

FOLK GAMES AND

solar calendar. It is one of the most important

ACTIVITIES OF CHUSEOK There are many traditional folk activities and games

Korean traditional holidays, and Koreans hold relatives, and neighbors.

events, play games, and share food with family, Chuseok has had many different names

(stuffed rice cake in a half-moon shape) to

share with family, relatives, and neighbors. A

serve on the charye table and of course eat and

as it is harvest time. Likewise, a huge rich variety of Chuseok food is prepared. The

including Gawi (lit. mid-autumn), Hangawi (lit. Gawi).

Korean typical family holds charye early in the

most representative of Chuseok food includes songpyeon, toran guk (taro soup), hwayang jeok (skewered vegetables and meats; the ingredients are first cooked and then skewered), nureum jeok are first skewered, covered with an egg wash, To make songpyeon, you need to prepare (skewered vegetables and meats; the ingredients and then cooked), and dakjjim (steamed chicken). dough, filling, and pine leaves. For the filling, you may use a number of different kinds of pastes and ingredients such as mung beans, jujubes, sweet potatoes, gotgam (peeled and powder. The dough is made by kneading a

for Chuseok, a few of which are someogi nori, geobuk nori, of one-legged fight where two people try to topple and anggamjil ssaum (a type

great mid-autumn), and Gabae (another form of

morning and then visits their ancestors graves. put on formal clothes, and stand before the

For charye, Koreans get up early in the morning,

each other while standing

and jumping on one leg; aka

3 1 Children wear Hanbok to play traditional folk games for Chuseok. 2 All villagers young and old participate in tug-of-war. 3 Songpyeon is the most representative Chuseok food.

dak ssaum). In the southern regions of Korean, people play ganggangsullae, and in Uiseong, Gyeongsangbuk-do, children play gama ssaum destroy the other teams sedan chair and take as many of the other teams flags as possible). fun but also to celebrate the rich harvest.

(a game in which two teams of children try to

green beans, cowpeas, sesame seeds, chestnuts, dried persimmons), and of course cinnamon powder of glutinous rice with hot water. To

These folk activities and games are not only for

make a piece of songpyeon, break off a piece of the dough and roll it to make a wrap. Fill the wrap with a small spoonful of the filling and

Ganggangsullae This is a representative folk activity of Chuseok enjoyed by women and children. Scores of women and children join hands in a big circle and swirl around under the moonlight, chanting the chorus, ganggangsullae. Tug-of-War Juldarigi, or tug-of-war, is a contest between two teams trying to pull a thick rope in opposite directions. Koreans have traditionally played tug-of-war on Chuseok and Jeongwol Daeboreum (January 15 by the lunar calendar), but in some regions, it is played on Danojeol (May 5 by the lunar calendar) or on Baekjungjeol (July 15 by the lunar calendar). The rope is made by twisting scores of thinner ropes made with rice straw gathered from each household. All villagers participate in the tug-of-war.

form the wrap into a pretty half-moon shape.

Stack the songpyeon with pine leaves in between believed in Korea that women who make pretty songpyeon will find good husbands, so Korean they make rather seriously.

the layers to steam it. It has long been popularly

women tend to take the shaping of the songpyeon


1

32 korea september 2012

33

SPoRtS

pistol event against heavy competition from Luca Tesconi, a police officer from Italy. The South Korean mens fencing team won Korea seon clinched the gold by performing two

its 100th Olympic gold medal. After Yang Hakphenomenal vaults including his signature

Yang Hak-seon vault, South Koreans not only cheered for his feat but also for his meteoric rise from poverty. The ebullience sweeping the have peaked when the South Korean Olympic to win the bronze.

country throughout the Summer Olympics may football players defeated Japan in a 2-0 victory Back in London 1948, Korean athletes

competed in the Olympics under the banner of the Republic of Korea for the first time, have passed since then, and South Korea, once destitute in the years following its wining two bronze medals. Sixty-four years

independence, showed in London this year that its now a serious competitor in sports. At the London 2012 Olympics, South Korea

revealed its potential in fencing, gymnastics, and other sports traditionally dominated by Western countries. Likewise, in sports where

South Korea has long been strong like archery, taekwondo, and judo, other countries showed significant improvements.

YANG HAK-SEON CHRISTENED GOD OF VAULT The London Olympics held surprises for South Koreans in sports that had not enjoyed wide popularity. One of them was by Yang Hak-seon,

Seventeen Days of Rapture and Tears in London


The Unscripted Dramas of the Taegeuk Warriors
The summer, the national squad from South Korea fought proudly in the 2012 London Olympics and garnered the countrys largest-ever haul of Olympic medals since the 1988 Seoul Olympics. by Yang In-sil

from July 28 to August 13 this year to compete


th

bout 10,000 of the worlds top athletes

the first-ever South Korean gymnast to win

from 204 countries assembled in London

Olympic gold. Competing in the mens vault

finals, Yang launched a spectacular somersault of his own invention, to score 16.466 with two strides forward on landing. His second vault

in 36 sports at the 30 Summer Olympic Games. South Korea sent 245 athletes in 22 sports and and seven bronze medals. finished in fifth place with 13 gold, eight silver, This excellent performance at the London

known as the Yang Hak-seon vault (difficulty: 7.4)

was a triple twisting Tsukahara (difficulty: 7.0), an even higher 16.600 and stun the world. He was born premature in Seoul. His

which he nailed with a perfect landing to score

Olympics saw its share of inspiring stories. The first gold medal for South Korea came when Jin Jong-oh clinched a victory with his near-

family later moved to a poor neighborhood in Gwangju. During the day, there was nobody at home to take care of him, so he started to

perfect final shooting in the mens 10-meter air


34 korea september 2012

35

SPoRtS

the Olympic crown. His many previous injuries left him in what was hardly ideal form. Neither his left shoulder, left knee, nor left hand were

at the 2010 Asian Games, but had not been as successful at the Olympics as at other major international competitions. Despite already

normally functioning. When he stepped into the Olympic judo arena for the gold-medal match, fight mainly with his right arm and leg. he felt like a one-armed swordsman that had to The gold medal won by wrestler Kim Hyeon-

being 35 years old, Hwang couldnt have had

any greater fighting spirit, but unfortunately,

he once again failed to clinch an Olympic medal. There seems to be no end without regret, said Hwang. Knowing that I will no longer feel the tension of walking into the arena amid the audiences cheering, I feel rather sorrowful. also had a lingering sense of regret when he Cho Ho-sung, a South Korean track cyclist,

woo was meaningful in that it revived the hopes of South Korean wrestlers, which had only faintly glimmered after they failed to strike any gold medal in the Beijing 2008 Olympic Games or the 2010 Asian Games in Guangzhou.
1 1 Though his left side was not functioning normally, Kim Jae-beom won the gold medal and his effort moved people around the world. 2 Cho Ho-sung returned from professional to amateur cycling in order to compete in London Olympics. He finished 11th among the 18 cyclists, but his challenge was splendid. 3 Although the South Korean womens handball team failed to clinch any medal, their match was certainly one of the most intense and dramatic moments.

The first South Korean Olympic gold medal in

finished 11th among 18 cyclists with a score of 60 in the mens track cycling omnium of six races at London 2012.

wrestling came when Yang Jung-mo won gold at the 1976 Olympics in Montreal. Since then South Korea had not failed to win Olympic gold in wresting until four years ago in Beijing. A longterm slump for South Korean wrestlers seemed to be in store. When Kim was in his first fight against

practice gymnastics in second grade to chase since his body was too stiff, yet he endured

off his boredom. The early going was difficult the difficult training and repeated the vault down the runway, beating the springboard

point race and the mens madison competitions at the 2002 Busan Asian Games, Cho switched

After grabbing two gold medals in the mens

to professional track cycling. He was successful, winning the most prize money of any cyclist in Korea for four consecutive years, from 2005 to 2008, and recorded a streak of 47 wins. His life

routines hundreds of times a dayrunning to spring onto the vault horse with his hands,

Armenias Hovhannes Varderesyan, his right eye bumped against Varderesyans forehead. He had to continue to fight with a badly swollen eye all the way to the final match where he beat Hungarys Tamas Lorincz 2-0 despite being an end to South Koreas four-year slump in wrestling. nearly blinded in his right eye. His gold put

launching into a somersault to twist and turn in the air, and landing on the mat. With strenuous effort and creativity, he invented his own vault named the Yang Hak-seon (or Yang 1) with a difficulty of 7.4.

was stable, his future bright, and he was already almost 40 years old. However, this success failed to erase the bitter memory of being overtaken at the last moment to finish fourth in the mens point race by a single point at the 2000 Sydney to amateur cycling in late 2008 in order to compete in London in 2012. Olympics. Thus, he returned from professional

away from the Koreans to win 31-29.

PERSEVERENCE IN THE FACE OF

INJURIES AND QUESTIONABLE CALLS smiled and put his past as the unfortunate the mens 81kg judo title by registering two At the Taereung National Center where

Kim Jae-beom, a South Korean judoka, finally Olympic Number 2 behind him when he won yuko scores against Germanys Ole Bischof. athletes representing South Korea train, Kim is called a fighting rooster because he is very competitive by nature and doesnt like to lose in any matcheven in a practice match with a colleague. Kim has very good psychological the opponent tends to always be on the defensive.

A BIG HAND TO

members for the match; the other three were injured. Although they failed to clinch any medal, their match was certainly one of the

The South Korean team could only field ten

ALL 245 TAEGEUK WARRIORS

All 245 of the Taegeuk Warriors are worthy cheering for their four years of Olympic they won medals or not.

once again. I want to study theories of cycling the knowhow I acquired in the international arena.

He is now geared up to challenge himself

of a hearty round of applause and thunderous perseverance and efforts, regardless of whether Hwang Hee-tae, a South Korean judoka who

more systematically and teach younger cyclists

most intense and dramatic moments in their

lives and will be remembered for a long, long

time. They poured every ounce of themselves South Korean womens volleyball team also generated a great deal of excitement in one medal match against Japan 0-3.

a cliff hanger bronze medal match against Spain in womens handball in which some call the was fierce, and the two teams finished the tears, tears for one second. The competition second half tied at 24-24. With four seconds left, the South Koreans blocked Spains offense, and Korean Jo Hyo-bi threw the ball into the Spanish goal, but it failed to beat the buzzer by less than a second. The match went into overtime, which again ended with a tie, at 28-28. Forced into

South Korea suffered a heart-breaking loss in

into it and have every reason to be proud. The

competed in the mens 100kg division, received but made his way to the contest for the bronze medal with a bandage around his bleeding

a forehead injury in the elimination round of 16,

match after another until they fell in the bronze In spirit, KOREA hereby confers gold medals

control, so once he gains control of the match,

head, where he was defeated by Henk Grol from the Netherlands with a score of 1-0. Hwang won gold in the mens -90kg division at the 2003 World Judo Championships and the 2006 Asian Games and also in the mens -100kg division

of encouragement and thanks to all the athletes who competed at the London 2012 Olympics, including the 245 South Korean athletes, for

the world rankings, but he was still hungry for


36 korea september 2012

His efforts had thrust him into first place in

doing their utmost and moving us with their unscripted dramas, whether or not they won medals.

double overtime, Spain finally managed to edge

37

ENtERtAINMENt

created musicals. In the past, a Korean musical company would stage an adaptation of a foreign musical, but now there are pure Korean musicals that have long been loved for more than a decade. Korean traditional culture, stories about Korean families are weaved the lives of Korean historic characters, and into musicals to fascinate audiences that are becoming even more delicate and choosy. scale and feature star musical actors and attracting more musical fans. Today, a musical doesnt have to be on a grand actresses. Small musicals in small theaters are In addition, successful Korean musicals

the actors, actresses and staff. The ministry

also plans to

found the Korea

Musical Academy in order to train

(provisional name) experts that will

create musicals. This

2 1 The scene of A Warrior Test of The Last Empress with impressive dynamic group dancing 2 The first Seoul Musical Festival took place in August this year. 3 The highlight of The Last Empress, singing Get to Your Feet, People in chorus

initiative is expected to cement the foundations a golden era for pure arts in Korea.

of Korean musicals and ultimately help usher in The creation of diverse musicals will quench

with artistic value are being licensed for

performance overseas, including The Last

audiences thirst for quality performances and fill theater seats. Moreover, as K-pop sweeps the world, Korean musicals will go abroad to of musical composers, diverse support, and Korean musicals on a brighter note.

Empress (a historical musical that deals with Japanese), Ppallae (lit. Laundry; a romantic

the murder of Empress Myeongseong by the musical about a Korean country girl and a the conflicts within a family surrounding

meet audiences around the world. The passion cheering of audiences will place the future of

foreign guy), and Seopyonje (a musical about pansori, a genre of Korean traditional music).
1

by the Korea Musical Association and Chungmu the Korean musical market with creative

The first Seoul Musical Festival co-organized

Art Hall took place in August this year, imbuing

Korean Musicals Get Wings to Soar High

The Glory Days of Korean Musicals


by Im Sang-beom / photographs material provided by the Chungmu Art Hall and ACOM International Co., Ltd

eyes and ears of more and more audiences along the way. The superfluous lighting, impactful stories, inspired acting, and alluring music

of the 19th century and has since captivated the

odern Western musical theatre started

in the United Kingdom around the end

passion. The festival featured the Yegreen in a range of areas in the creation of new

Award ceremony to recognize achievements musicals as well as workshops, gala shows, and other diverse events. It was especially with a focus on new musicals. meaningful in that it was Koreas first festival The fact that businesses and the government

combine to resonate in the hearts of audiences. Just hearing such musical titles as Cats, Miss Saigon, Les Misrables, and The Phantom of the Opera makes ones heart flutter. Whenever

Korean musicals are greatly advancing and being recognized at home and abroad. The glory days appear to be within sight.

are forking out support more generously also musicals in Korea. The Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism recently announced a plan to further vitalize the Korean musical

such a great musical is staged in Korea, tickets are immediately sold out. Yes, Koreans love musicals!

signals a brighter future for the creation of new

industry, too. Musicals created by Koreans are performing well, and Korean audiences who used to show favoritism toward renowned

There is good news from the Korean musical

market and offer support for exporting Korean musicals. In particular, the ministry will select each with the aim of spurring the musical ten musicals and provide up to KRW 500 million industry and promoting Korea as a national

foreign musicals are now turning their eyes to Korean musicals. Businesses and government now provide more generous support for locally
38 korea september 2012

brand name. The support will cover all the costs to stage each selected musical including fees for

39

GLoBAL koREA

with facial deformities and facilitates research

and education in the area. The organization was founded in 1996 by Dr. Baek Se-Min, a pioneer in reconstructive plastic surgery in South Korea. He first began volunteer medical work

in rural Korea in 1989. Together with a team of other physicians and nurses, he visited public health centers in every corner of the country to treat children with facial deformities, treating more than 4,600 patients in Korea. When Dr. Baek learned that there were

numerous people with cleft lips and palates who couldnt afford surgery in Vietnam, he decided it was time to start helping people in foreign countries. Thus began Smile for Children in 1996.

17 YEARS OF MEDICAL MISSIONS

Baek Rong-Min, who is the head Reconstructive Surgery Department of of the Plastic and

SK Telecom, a mobile telecommunications

operator in South Korea, funded the medical

procedures and procurement of equipment, and 12 physicians and nurses from Inje University Paik Hospital, where Dr. Baek worked,
1

volunteered to be part of the medical mission. Children in May 1996 was successfully The first medical mission of Smile for

Seoul National

University Bundang Hospital and also in cleft lips and the leading surgeon palates in Korea.
3 1 Smile for Children has been providing free medical treatment for Vietnamese children for the last 17 years. 2 Dr. Baek Rong-Min (second from left) and his medical team with the 3,000th patient they treated this June 3 Dr. Baek Rong-Min seeing a patient at the 108 Hospital in Hanoi

A New Smile for Vietnamese Children

conducted with the determination of Dr.

Korean Medical Missions of Smile for Children


by Chung Da-young / photographs provided by Smile for Children

Baeks medical team, corporate funding, and the partnership of likeminded Vietnamese doctors at 108 Hospital (also known as Army

Medical Institute 108) in Hanoi. For seven days straight, the Korean medical team performed life-changing surgeries from morning to night on 200 patients with cleft lips and palates and other facial deformities. In order to treat as many patients as they could, many of whom of receiving free surgery, there was no time

conducting free medical missions in Vietnam forever. The organization wants to help Vietnamese medical professionals acquire

The doctors of Smile for Children wont be

A South Korean nonprofit medical organization, Smile for Children, has treated over 3,000 patients with facial deformities in Vietnam over the past 17 years. Their humanitarian work has given new smiles and hopes to patients and their families.

the needed surgical skills and knowledge to

one day perform the procedures themselves. That is why the organization trains the local they bring to the hospital on each mission. doctors and donates all the medical equipment For more organized and intensified training, to South Korea for medical training at Seoul

had travelled from far and wide in the hopes around the globe where children and adults with such conditions cannot receive proper treatment due to poverty and lack of advanced recognized the suffering from cleft lip and treatment there for the past 17 years. for the doctors and nurses to rest. The medical mission didnt stop there: Smile for Children returned to Vietnam every year since then to treat hundreds of children each time. The organization performed its 3,000th cleft lip and palate surgery on its 17th mission in June

left lip and palate and blepharoptosis

the organization invites a Vietnamese doctor National University Bundang Hospital. So far, received the training.

neither physical nor mental disabilities, but lives due to their appearance. With todays

are congenital facial deformities that are

they prevent those afflicted from living normal surgical technology, most children born with

medical services. A South Korean organization palate in Vietnam and has been providing free Smile for Children is a nonprofit organization

seven out of the ten doctors at 108 Hospital have Smile for Children will return to Vietnam

such facial deformities can be easily treated at children. Unfortunately, there are still places
40 korea september 2012

this year, bringing the total number of patients treated to 3,048. Smile for Children is now led by the younger brother of Dr. Baek Se-Min, Dr.

next year to provide medical care to hundreds new hope for the future.

an early age and live healthy lives just like other

of children who are waiting for new smiles and

that provides free medical treatment to those

41

SPECIAL ISSUE

relationship between their private lives and

political areas, as well as personal memories lives.

and historical events that influence their daily On the second floor stand three coin-operated

binoculars for visitors to get a closer look at the DMZ area and North Korea. Among the three stands French artist Francois Mazabrauds

Hidden Landscape, in which viewers see a graphic image created by the artist. Mazabraud explains that you already are not looking at something real when you view something through a blurred through his artwork. device. The line between reality and fiction is German artist Nicolas Pelzer installed

semitransparent glass panels entitled Dislocated Cinema in one corner of the observatory to contrast between the clarity of the view and On the windows of the monorail up to

challenge visitors to question what they see. the Cheorwon Peace Observatory, Dirk
1

Fleishchmann rewrote the text of signs and in his piece Reading Meaning. The messages

notices he photographed around Cheorwon

real DmZ ProJeCt 2012


Art Exhibition at the Demilitarized Zone
by Julianna Chung / photos provided by Samuso

range from warnings about North Koreas

desire to invade South Korea no littering sign. which implies the impermanence of such phrases.

The writings can be erased by monorail riders, has been turned into an art exhibition hall for video installation artist Kim Sylbee, British artist Simon Morley, and Noh Suntag.

3 1 In front of the Labor Party Building stands Kim Lyangs My Saintly Shelter. 2 In Noh Suntags photography collection To Survive vs. Once Arrived, a South Korean soldier gazes at the border of the two Koreas next to the warning post no photography allowed. 3 Installation view of Kim Sylbees Friendly Fire

Cheorwon in the province of Gangwon-do, part of the four-kilometer-wide, 250-kilometerlong Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) along the 38th parallel which divides the Korean Peninsula in two, transforms into an art museum from July to September 2012.

a photo shoot by photographer Noh Suntag, which shows a South Korean soldier gazing at the border of the two Koreas next to the warning post no photography allowed.

On the third floor of the observatory stands

both Berlin and Seoul, screens Friendly Fire at the site. The short film symbolically portrays the relationship between the two Koreas as

Kim Sylbee, a Korean artist who works in

heorwon, once the scene of one of the Korean War's hardest-fought battles,

Observatory, visitors can see a documentary shows the lives of soldiers stationed in the in Cheorwon for ten days to produce the

hosts the Real DMZ Project 2012 from July 27 from around the world gather in Cheorwon reality of the Korean Peninsula. The artists' installations, photographs, paintings, and Cheorwon Security Tour. videos are placed in various sites along the

video entitled 248 by Amandine Faynot, which

As a part of Nohs photography collection displayed pictures of the backs of visitors

entitled To Survive vs. Once Arrived, Noh also taken at various spots along the security tour, illustrating a desire to view the other side. Hwang Se-juns Tour, Lee Jooyoungs Waiting

a fratricidal science-fiction tragedy. The story is inspired by visions of unrealized journeys to unreachable places as well as the Southfantasies of war, sexuality, and the future. of Mount Geumgangsan, which include Simon Morley presented two paintings

to September 16. Eleven contemporary artists to offer their own viewpoints on the divided

DMZ. Faynot stayed in four military camps documentary, which focuses on the irony of South Korean soldiers training for nearly 60 years while nothing has happened and still continuing to wait. Another video work is Regeneration of

North relationship and attempts to rebuild the

Together Ten Ri from DMZ and Part-Time Suites Drop by Then: Video are also on exhibit at the monorail station.

images of trains that used to run from South Korea to the mountain. Morley also displays digitalized images of anonymous South and

CHEORWON PEACE OBSERVATORY On the first floor of the Cheorwon Peace


42 korea september 2012

the House: A Dream House by the Border by

Kim Lyang. The Korean artist interviewed

WOLJEONG-RI STATION

local residents of Cheorwon to capture the

The abandoned Woljeong-ri Station, which used to run trains between South and North Korea,

North Korean soldiers on large banners on the

monorail station leading to the Cheorwon Peace


43

SPECIAL ISSUE

FLAvoR

Kkot Songpyeon
Scented Flower Rice Cakes
This year, Chuseok falls on September 30. A celebration of national holidays in Korea. On this festive day, people ancestral rituals and share with their families.
1 2

the autumn harvest, Chuseok is one of the most important prepare a feast made from the years harvest to serve at One of those foods is songpyeon, a variation of tteok

(Korean rice cake). Eaten all year round, songpyeon made for Chuseok.

with newly harvested rice is an important traditional dish The kkot songpyeon or flower songpyeon from the

southeastern region of Jeolla-do is decorated with flowerextracted from yellow gardenia seeds, green mugwort,

shaped tteok. White tteok is colored with natural food dyes and red schizandra berries. This dyed tteok is then shaped into small flowers and placed on top of half-moon-shaped songpyeon. Traditionally, songpyeon was steamed with pine needles,
3 4 1 Dislocated Cinema by Nicolas Pelzer challenges visitors to question what they see from the clear observatory windows. 2 Video installation view at Cheorwon Peace Observatory 3 Reading Meaning by Dirk Fleishchmann on the windows of the monorail to the Cheorwon Peace Observatory 4 Still image of Drop by Then: Video by Part-time Suite

which preserve the tteok with a strong germicidal effect and also give it a pleasant fragrance.

Observatory.

works at Woljeong-ri Station entitled The


nd

Noh presents another series of photographic

place for the workers who had dug the tunnel. The German artist explains that chandeliers are special objects for special places and the installation looks at the relationship of the chandelier and the space around it. THE LABOR PARTY BUILDING

by Chung Da-young photographs by Moon Duk-gwan food & styling by Kim Young-bin with assistance by Noh Shin-young

The photos show the back of a man walking in the 2


nd

Peachy Bottom of the 2 Underground Tunnel.

North Koreans through to South Korea). When Noh visited the tunnel, the person walking in inspired Noh to take the photos. THE 2
nd

Underground Tunnel (tunnel dug by

front of him looked like he was dancing, which

In front of the Labor Party Building, which was used by North Korea founder Kim Il-sung to promote communist politics, stands Kim Lyangs installation My Saintly Shelter.

The 3,500-meter-long and two-meter-tall tunnel dug by the North Koreans for a surprise attack on South Korea was discovered by a South for a 500meter stretch, visitors are able to Korean soldier in the 1970s. Open to the public find German artist Dirk Fleishchmann and

UNDERGROUND TUNNEL

Inspired by a Jewish Sukkot to represent the

unstable nature of the two Koreas, artist Kim assembled various rice-transporting A-frame racks and added wheels and lighting to the immobile racks. Kims interest in human

dwellings and nomadism is evoked from her but is now separated from his hometown because of the countrys partition. www.realdmz.org.

931 at the end of the tunnel. A dismantled yet brightly lit chandelier sits on a mirror panel in the space, which was originally a resting
44 korea september 2012

Korean artist Shin Hyo-chuls Chandelier 363-

father, who was originally born in North Korea

To attend the exhibition, you can refer to

45

MY koREA

a home run for fun


Chicken and beer, balloon sticks, and different cheer songs for every player. These are the things that make a day at a Korean baseball stadium more exciting than the actual game itself. by Ryan McAllister / illustration by Moon Sin-ki

changed my mind however, as he led me to

a crowded line queuing up to buy inflatable

the spirited passion of 20 of the most crazed fans combined, led the crowd in one of the most hypnotizing cheers I had ever witnessed. Every single person was shouting the melody in perfect unison. I had never seen anything like this. You could feel the genuine spirit of fun.

red balloon sticks with team names and logos. and so I bought my Twins cheering sticks.

Tonight, I was pulling for the LG Twins to win, Typically, I was never privy to buying cheering items such as these, but it seemed a mandatory item as a fan when heading to your seats in

behind each of the fans. It was the purest form The Twins were currently at bat, and Seung-

I would never have believed them at first. After all, Im from the United States, where baseball is known as The Great American Pastime. To me, it only seemed logical that America

f someone would have told me that the best place to see a baseball game was in Korea,

portmanteau of the words chicken and maekju

Korea. Therefore, I simply adopted the mindset of when in Rome, do as the Romans do. The second I exited the tunnel into the

(beer) put together. Both looked delicious, and logical pairing for sports.

jae informed me that the only option for being team. I quickly discovered what my balloon striking them together to make a percussive It was the perfect tool for an enormous fan-

it only took me a second to agree that this was a As we walked into the stadium, the game

stands, I was greeted with an instantaneous surge of excitement. A great wave of red sticks was swaying back and forth to the

on offense was to stand up and rally around the sticks were for, as everyone in the stadium was thud that sounded like a bat hitting a baseball. made percussion section to cheer to the music.

was the worlds baseball mecca, and the only

had already started. In the distance was a and percussive pounding could be heard.

country that seemed to come close in their love for baseball that I knew of was Koreas Eastern neighbors, Japan. It was not until my friend Seung-jae invited me to the Jamsil Baseball

swelling sound of excitement as cheers, music It sounded like we had just missed a home run, but as I passed a television on the way to our was even on base. Confused by the recent was about. seats, the score was still 0 to 0. In fact, nobody uproar, I had wondered what all the commotion With food and drinks already in hand, I felt

rhythm of a custom-made LG Twins fight song. Across the stands was an opposing flurry of white sticks, obviously supporters of the

rival team, the Doosan Bears. In front of this

collective spectacle were four gorgeous female

I had felt somewhat embarrassed as I was the

stadium that my definition of a good time at the ballpark would be drastically changed forever. I had rushed from work to the Stadium where Seung-jae enthusiastically greeted me with a bucket of bul dak (spicy Korean fried chicken) The game was held on a Thursday night, and

cheerleaders on a platform, dancing to the beat while a man equipped only with a whistle and

no obligation to browse the local memorabilia shops or food stands. Seung-jae quickly

and a cooler full of Korean beer. He told me that for Koreans, this complimentary combination of fried chicken and beer was the perfect food for a sports game. Koreans called it chimaek, a

46 korea september 2012

47

MY koREA

LEARN koREAN

Have you ever been to JeJuDo?

A: ?

Where should I go for a vacation?

B: , ?

ibeon hyuga ttae eodie galkkayo?

Have you ever been to Jejudo, Chris?

Chris-ssi, jejudoe ga bwasseoyo?

C: , .

D: . .

No, I havent.

aniyo, mot ga bwasseoyo.

Try to visit Jejudo. Its a very nice place.

jejudoe ga boseyo. jeongmal joayo.

-// usually takes the past tense form such as -// In statements it expresses the experience, and in the imperative sentences, -// expresses advice or suggestion for the listener to try something.
basic form speakers wish form (-// ) . (go to Jejudo) jejudoe gada (I have been to Jejudo.) jejudoe ga bwasseoyo. . (Try to go to Jejudo.) jejudoe ga boseyo. . (eat bibimbap) bibimbabeul meokda (I have eaten bibimbap.) bibimbabeul meogeo bwasseoyo. . (Try to eat bibimbap.) bibimbabeul meogeo boseyo. . (listen to K-pop) hanguk noraereul deutda (I have listened to K-pop.) hanguk gayoreul deureo bwasseoyo. . (Try to listen to K-pop.) hanguk gayoreul deureo boseyo. A: ? B: . . A: . . (go to Gyeongju) (play yunnori)

Lets practice
Try to make a conversation with the following vocabulary. Have you ever...?
(eat bulgogi) bulgogireul meokda gyeongju-e gada yunnorireul hada

only one around that had no idea what to sing. Seung-jae was prepared for this though, as he pulled out his iPhone with the LG Twins app

buddies. In Korea however, both men and

women of all ages filled the stands in equal

that had all of the songs and lyrics to help you

number, and everyone was thrilled to be there. After taking in the atmosphere for one inning, I could understand why as anyone who came to a Korean baseball game could easily find a reason to have a good time. In fact, I wasnt focused on the cheering. really focused on the game as much as I was The next day at work, I caught myself singing

sing along. I was amazed to find out that every when they went to bat, and I assure you that
ABoUt tHE wRItER
Ryan McAllister is an American Army officer with a passion for learning foreign languages and experiencing different cultures. With a goal of visiting 50 countries by age 50, Ryan's current travels have based him in Seoul, where he explores South Korea on a daily basis with his wife and 15-month-old daughter. Their adventures are detailed in the online blog sippycupsojourner. blogspot.com which highlights fun things to do with children in the world's biggest cities.

single player had their own custom theme song you would not want to be caught as the one not

singing the tune at the top of your lungs when a

player departed the batters box. No matter your your singing and dancing, and you didnt want to let your batter and team down. The other thing I noticed was that the

age or gender, you felt that success depended on

the baseball songs in my head all day while

reminiscing about excitement of the game. I was so grateful to have been given the opportunity Seung-jae. And so, for the next game I go to, to attend a Korean baseball game by my friend I will know to have my Twins app downloaded on my iPhone, a package of chimaek at my side, and my balloon sticks in hand, ready for the fun time that awaits me at Jamsil Baseball Stadium. Wouldnt you care to join me?

A: ? B: , .

audience at the game was not at all like in the United States. Typically, American sporting events are primarily attended by young or middle-aged males and used as a bonding

experience for men to leave the confines of

their house and have a good time with their

48 korea september 2012

49

ne pas affranchir

Priority / Priorilaire By airmail / Par avion


ibrs / ccri n : 10024-40730
no stamp required

rePly Paid / rPonse Paye korea (seoul)


kocis 15 hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu seoul (110-040) republic of korea

The road along The meandering lakeshore of The okjeongho

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