Making Process Of Polo-shirt.

(1st part)
Learn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion design. Details of the style

Item: Men's Polo shirt Fabrication: 100% cotton, Single Jersey, 160/170 gsm, Flat knit collar Pocket at front left chest. 02 (two logo button with pearl plastic quality, 20 ligne)

1st Step Prepare the fabric booking : After approval of fit sample & received the final PO sheet from buyer, pattern/cutting section will make a correct pattern set of all the sizes. In middle class factory normally merchandiser do the consumption with the help of cutting master after placed the pattern of on marker paper. In this regards please always remember one thing if the orders qty is with size wise ratio then you must consider it during the making marker with pattern. I will discuss more details regarding the marker in near future. After get the consumption & dia confirmations merchandiser will booked the fabric and hand over the color & construction wise fabric break up sheet to fabric department. During this merchandiser should provide them all the lab dip approval with other instructions. Please also booked the collar & cuff.

2nd Step Prepare the Accessories booking: In same time of booking the fabric merchandiser also should booked the accessories. Merchandiser should ensue that, the store will receive all the sewing accessories before in house of the the fabric. Sewing accessories means - Sewing thread, main/size label, care label, tape etc. Merchandiser should always follow up the sewing production because when a minimum qty will be output he should try to book the finishing accessories like as - Poly, Carton etc. Before booked the poly & back board he must confirm the folding way with buyer. Also merchandiser should take approval of shipping mark, sticker & carton quality from his buyer. Some others accessories like as - hang tag, hang tag string, thinner, spot lifter, inter lining, he must booked these at the same time of fabric booking. After received these trims he should make a trim card and distribute to all the sections. Store department should count & check the quality of all the accessories before start sewing production and also provide a inventory report to merchandiser. 3rd Step Production planning: After placing all the booking he should discuss with the planning for a production planning. Maximum middle class factory do not follow this procedure.

4th Step

Quality check of fabric: After receive the fabric from dyeing the fabric Q.C department will check the color shade, Gsm, dia, shrinkage, twisting etc and acknowledged the merchandiser accordingly. The fabric q.c team will also check the count the collar & check the others quality. A middle class factory need a strong quality team for fabric because normally they do the dyeing in others factory.

5th Step Fabric Cutting: After receive the green signal from fabric q.c team and merchandiser, cutting section will be start trial cutting at first. At the same time cutting section will check the consumption again in real fabric. They will confirm to the merchandiser that how pcs they can be able to cut from the received fabric. It is very important because some time we need extra fabric due to the increased of fabric GSM. Merchandiser should re booked the short qty fabric if needed.

6th Step Size set & PP sample: After received the bulk fabric production section will make size set sample and check the measurement & shrinkage of fabric. After checking the size set sample they will adjust the pattern and will be make a pre production sample for buyer approval. During the size set sample production department will setup the line layout. Step 5th & 6th will be done at the same time.

Sewing Section:
As in our following this style has no print & embroidery so the cut fabric will be go to input section directly. Merchandiser should sit for a PP meeting with production department with the approved trim card, PP sample, Accessories in house report. production department should discuss with planning department for Production target. a) Placket Making: Production supervisor will made the placket by the help of sewing operator. At first they will fused the fabric with interlining in fusing machine. After that, they will cut the fabric by use of the pattern of placket. After that, they will marked the placket fabric & stitch with a plain machine. b) Pocket Joint: In between of the placket making we will attached the pocket with body by use of a plain machine. Regarding the pocket please be careful about placement of pocket. Sometimes sewing operator sew it slanted & wrong position. c) Placket Make & Joint : After making the placket & joint the pocket with body, the body has goes to next plain machine operator to attached the placket with body. Here normally we used two plain machine.

d) Shoulder Joint: After the placket joint we joint the shoulder (front & back part) by use of a over lock machine. e) Shoulder Top Stitch: After shoulder joint we put a top stitch over the shoulder by use of another plain machine.

f) Collar tack & Joint : After the shoulder top stitch at first we tack the collar by use a plain machine then we join the collar with body by use of a over lock machine. g) Back tape joint: After collar joint we joint the back tape in the flat lock machine by used of folder. h) Placket Top stitch: After back tap joint we put placket top stitch by use two plain machine. i) Placket Box: After the top stitch of placket we make the placket box by use of plain machine.j) Main/size label attachment: After the placket box making we attached the main/size label inside the back tape by use of plain machine.k) Sleeve rolling/ sleeve hem: In the mean time we roll the or hem the sleeve with flat lock machine. l) Sleeve joint: Now we will joint the sleeve with body by use of over lock machine. m) Side seam joint: After these operations we joint the both side seam of body & sleeve by use of over lock machine. We also attached the care label in between this operations. n) Bottom hem: After the side seam joint we hem the bottom by use of a flat lock machine. o) Sleeve (opening)Tack: After these process we put a tack in sleeve opening. p) Button Hole: Then we make hole on the placket by use of button hole machine. In this regards please note that button hole will be little bit smaller then the button dia (ligne). Also be noted top button hole will be horizontal where as the others button hole will be vertical. However, you should confirmed it with your buyer. q) Button Stitch: After button hole we will be attached the button with placket by use of button stitch machine. Please note that, many time buyer asked for extra button. If needed then we will also stitched a button with the body.

Stitches Per Inch (SPI) - What Should You Must Know.

Introduction
When writing garment specifications, you should not neglect specifying the proper number of stitches per inch that should be used in your sewn products. Why? Because the number of stitchesper inch can have a direct influence on the following: 1) the seam strength; 2) the stitch appearance;and 3) the seam elasticity on stretch fabrics. An estimated seam strength formula was developed years ago for woven seams where one piece of fabric is placed on top of another with a specific seam margin and stitched with either a 301lockstitch or 401 chainstitch.

Obviously, the seam strength is dependent on a number of factors including: Type & Weight of the Fabric Stitch & Seam Construction Stitches Per Inch Thread Type and Size Stitch Balance (Thread Tensioning) Formula for Estimating Seam Strength on Woven Fabrics 301 Lockstitch - Estimated Seam Strength = SPI X Thread Strength (lbs.) X 1.5*
* 1.5 is a factor based on the average loop strength ratio of most sewing threads.

= 10 SPI X 4.0 lbs. X 1.5 = 60 lb. strength

401 Chainstitch Estimated Seam Strength = SPI X Thread Strength (lbs.) X 1.7 *
* This factor is higher than a lockstitch because almost twice as much thread is consumed per inch of seam using a chainstitch.

= 10 SPI X 4.0 lbs. X 1.7 = 68 lb. strength

From this formula, you can see the impact that stitches per inch, thread strength and stitch selectionhave on the strength of the seam. Generally, the more stitches per inch, the greater the seamstrength. There are rare cases where adding stitches per inch can actually damage the fabric so thatthe seam is weakened, however, this only happens on specific fabrics that can be damaged by excessive needle penetrations. Given: - 301 Lockstitch Superimposed Seam - Thread Used Top & Bottom = T-24 Perma Core Strength: 2.6 lbs. SPI
Estimated Seam Strength

6 23.4 lbs

8 31.2 lbs

10 39 lbs

12 46.8 lbs

As you can see from the chart above, the stitches per inch has a tremendous impact on the strength of the seam, as long as the fabric doesnt rupture before the thread. If the same seams were sewn with a lower tenacity spun polyester thread, this also will effect the resulting seam strength. Given: - 301 Lockstitch Superimposed Seam - Thread Used Top & Bottom = T-27 Spun Poly Strength: 2.2 lbs. SPI
Estimated Seam Strength

6 20 lbs

8 26 lbs

10 33 lbs

12 40 lbs

Some manufacturers substitute a smaller bobbin thread when sewing lockstitch seams to minimize the number of times it takes the sewing operator to change the bobbin. Remember, however, that the resulting seam strength will be much less and will be determined by the strength of the bobbin thread and not the needle thread. How to Measure the Stitch Length or Stitches Per Inch?

The stitch length is measured by measuring the number of lengths of thread found within one inch.Stitch counters are available from A&E that make this measurement easier, however, you can place a ruler next to the seam and perform the same task. SPI is measured by counting the number of lengths of thread found within one inch. As you can see here, there are approximately 9 SPI sewn in this seam.

SPI Recommendations for Wovens & Knits

Below is a list of garments and the typical number of Stitches Per Inch recommended for each of them.

WOVEN GARMENTS
Garments Denim Jeans, Jackets, Skirts
SPI 78

Comments
Fewer stitches per inch generally will give a more contrast stitch appearance.

Garments Childrenswe ar

SPI 8 - 10

Comments
Usually 8 to 10 spi is adequate to provide adequate seam strength and at the same time allow for quicker cycle times. Due to many of the operations being lockstitch, usually 10 12 spi is required to provide adequate seam strength. A long stitch length is desirable to minimize the dimple or appearance of the needle penetration on the outside of the garment. Buttonsew machines are cycle machines with a predetermined number of stitches per cycle. Generally sewn vertically approx. 8590 stitches with a lockstitch buttonhole machine.

Twill Pants or Shorts

8 10

More stitches per inch will help minimize seam grinning.

Dresses, Skirts

10-12

Trousers, Dress Pants, Slacks

10-12

On some operations like serge panels, it may be desirable to use a longer stitch length. Using more SPI llows the use of smaller diameter threads that will minimize seam puckering. Using more SPI will give more of a tailored stitch appearance and better seam coverage when serging.

Dress Shirt or Blouse

14-20

Blindstitch Operations on Slacks,Dres ses Skirts, etc. Buttonsew (4 hole button) Buttonhole (1/2 purl or whip stitch)

3-5

16

Casual Shirts, Blouses, Tops

10-14

85-90

When setting standards for stitches per inch, you should always keep in mind that more stitches per inch used in a seam requires longer sewing cycles to complete the seam. Longer sewing cycles translates in to higher labor costs and lower production levels. A sewing machine sewing at 5,000 SPM (stitches per minute) at 8 SPI will sew 17.4 yards of seam per minute. A sewing machine sewing at 5,000 SPM at 14 SPI will sew 9.9 yards of seam per minute. More stitches per inch will also consume for thread per inch of seam. This will contribute to higher seam strength and more elastic seams, but will also increase the consumption of thread required to sew the garment.

Therefore, the recommendations listed above are common stitch levels that provide adequate seam strength but also take into consideration the factors just mentioned. When sewing knit fabrics, you should always check for excessive seam grinning of the seam; and also check for stitch cracking. Seam grinning occurs when thread stitch balance is too loose allowing the seam to open up too much when stress is applied to it. Stitch Cracking is checked by applying pressure on the seam in the stitching direction. If the thread tensions are too tight or if you are not using enough stitches per inch, the threads will rupture as stress is applied on the seam. Therefore, the following recommendations have been made for the number of stitches per inch to be used on the following garments.

KNIT GARMENTS
Garments Jersey Tshirts, Tops, Polos Underwear
SPI 10-12

Comments
Using more SPI increases the chance of needle cutting.

Garments Swimwear

SPI 12 - 16

Comments
The more elastic the seam, the more SPI that should be used to minimize stitch cracking. The more elastic the seam, the more SPI that should be used to minimize stitch cracking. The more elastic the seam, the more SPI that should be used to minimize stitch cracking. More stitches per inch are required to provide the proper seam coverage on fleece. Usually sewn with very fine thread. More spi are required to minimize seam grinning and seam elasticity.

12-14

In fantwear

10-12

Fleece

10-12

The more elastic the seam, the more SPI that should be used to minimize stitch cracking. The more elastic the seam, the more SPI that should be used to minimize stitch cracking. More stitches per inch are required to provide the proper seam coverage on fleece. The more elastic the seam, the more SPI that should be used to minimize stitch cracking.

Dresses, Skirts

10 - 12

Intimates

12 -16

Sweaters (Med. To Hvy.)

8-10

Stretch Knits (Lycra, Spandex, etc.) Hosiery, Socks

14-18

35-50