North Carolina State University

Omcc of Cootinlling Eduation and Rofariod Development Dirkion of Univerdty Ertcadon

MEMORAHDUH TO:

Short Course Participants

Tho Offico of Continuing Education C Profomsional Dovelopment (OCECPD) welcomes you to this North Carolina State University short

course. We hope your e%periences here are pleasant and rewarding. If you have noeds while you aro h u e that aren't baing met, please let um know. liko to call your attontion to o n important a8pect of your . You will be awarded Continuing participation in thi8 cour80. Education U i . (CEDs) for muccessful completion of this program. nt One CEU is awarded for u c h 10 hour8 of iMtruction, with the undustanding that tho 8tudurtmut bo pro8ont for at least 908 of the instruction. The CW is a nationally recognized uniform unit of moamuramont providing the participant vith educational units which can be accumulated and u e d a8 evidence of profemsional development. In an incrusing number of irutances, CEWS are used for certification, licuming and am a factor in promotion.

i would

The staff greatly appreciate. your comment. about the program you are attending. We also welcome suggestions for new courses to meet your educational needs, as we are continually goarching for subject areas not included in t h o more than 600 conferences, workshops, short courses and seminars now being .offered. Again, we are pleased to have the opportunity to s e n e you and hope you return often.

B. Marston, Director of Continuing Education Professional Development

North Carolina State University College of Textiles

The North Carolina State University College of Textiles Serves the citizens of Nonh Carolina through .education. research and extension programs. Founded in 1899, this institution with an enrollment of close to 1.OOO students, now dominates textile education in the United States. At the present time, nearly half of all textile university-based undergraduate degrees are awarded here. Fifty percent of all masters candidates and 75 percent of all textile Ph.D.s are currently enrolled in the college. Reflecting the diversity of the industry itself. the curriculum includes Bachelor of Science degrees in texules, textile and apparel managemenL textile science, textile engineering and textile chemistry. Within some of these degree programs, a student may specialize in textile design. textile technology. textile management, apparel management, polymer chemistry. dyeing and finishing science, dyeing and finishing technology, and dyeing and finishing management students interested in pursuing advanced degrees in scientific and technical disciplines. Students studying textile chemistry can concentrate on dyeing and fmishing science, polymer science,dyeing and finishing operations. and dyeing and finishing management. These students are in great demand in the numerous textde operations that emphasize dyeing and fmishing. many of which are located in North Carolina. or in polymer-related research and development activities throughout the fiber and textile indusmes. Students studying textile engineering leam how to apply scientific principles and engineering prar;tices to the widely diversified aspects of texule processes. products and machinery. This degree program is operawf jointly with the College of Engineering. The NCSU College of Textiles offers

m a programs leading to the Master of Science. ut e Master of Textiles. and Doctor of Philosophy degrees.
Graduates with advanced textile degrees are constantly in short supply and great demand.

The textiles degree program is designed to provide a broad foundarion in textile technology. beginning with the basic raw material and progressing through to the finished fabric. Students enrolled in this curriculum may sptcialize further in the areas of textile design or advanced textile technology. Textiles program graduates typically fill design and manufacturing management positions in fiber and texule manufacturing fms.
Students enrolled in the textile and apparel management program will obtain a solid background in texules, in addition to management concepts and applications. Specializationsin textile management or apparel management arc possible. Graduates of hese programs are in demand t fill positions in o production, tezhnical services, sales, markuing. purchasing, personnel and other related management and staff functions.

The curriculum of the college i v e d e and s comprehensive, providing instruction both on and off campus. Extension programs provide numerous short courses, conferences and workshops on a grtat variety of subjects o interest to the fiber, textile and apparel f industries. In addition to these programs, Textiles Extension also offers a wide variety of in-plant courses.
Credit courses via the Textile Off-Campus Televised Education (TOTE)Program are offered internationally. Enrollment averages approximately 160 students pcr academic year. Courses are offered at the undergraduate and graduate levels. Students can eam a Master of Textiles with a specialization in Textile and Apparel Management and Technology: Textile Engineering and Science: and Textile Chemistry. TOTE classes an available to any individual seeking an improved textdes education or background. In addition a visual aid rental seMce is available u) the industry.

-- -

Another program offering outstanding opportunities for students is the textile science program. which emphasizes research, development, o and applications of advanced technology t the fiber and textile industries. It is also a good choice for

WEFT KNITTING FUNDAMENTALS

BUS SCHEDULE
AUGUST 22 - 25,1994 Monday, August 22
7:45am 4:OOpm 6:30pm 9:OOpm

Embassy Suites to College of Textiles College o Textiles to Embassy Suites f Embassy Suites to Simpsons Simpsons to Embassy Suites

Tuesday, August 23 8:OOam 4:OOpm Embassy Suites to College of Textiles College of Textiles to Embassy Suites

Wednesday,August 24 8:OOam 4:OOpm Embassy Suites to College o Textiles f College of Textiles to Embassy Suites

Thursday, August 25 8:OOam

12:OO noon

Embassy Suites to College of Textiles College of Textiles to Embassy Suites

WEFT KNITTING FUNDAMENTALS Gary W. Smith

1 Knitting Yarns: . A. Yarn Classifications: a. Spun:

Singles vs. Plied Spun Yam Classifications And Comparisons Ring Open-End Carded Combed strength
cost

uniformity twist cover count range

b. Filament: Flat vs. Textured

Influence of Filament Count and Stretch

c. Elastomeric:
Elastomeric Yam Comparisons Bare Single Covered Double Covered
cost

extensibility stability B. Implications of New Yam Developments: a. package sizehhape

b. uniformity
c. friction

d. joining techniques C. Yarn Requirements: a. strength b. count variation c. uniformity d. twist e. friction

f. elongation
g. colorhhade

h. packaging

D. Yam Numbering Systems: a. Indirect: Cotton Count: number of 840 yard lengths per pound Comparisons of Yam Counts 20/1 30/1 3012

cost
thickness uniformity b. Direct: Denier: weight in grams of 9000 meters of y a m Decitex: weight in grams of 10000 meters of yam Comparisons of Yam Deniers 1/70/13 l/70/34 2/70/34 cost thickness Uniformity Count Importances:

2. Weft Knitting: A. Classifications: a. Structure aa. Jersey

--

bb. Rib

cc. Purl

Knitting

Weft Knitting Machine

_-

Weft Knitting

---

h
I11

k ]&E%
Neech

4 I1

b. Machine aa. Single Cylinder

bb. Dial and Cylinder

3cc. V-Bed dd. Purl

c. Format aa. Tubular

bb. Flat

d. Diameter aa. Small

bb. Large

B. Definitions:
a. Course: - a horizontal row of loops W

Feeder: - an actual course Visual: - a visual course CPI:

b. Wale: - a vertical column of loops

WPI: Knit loop: Tuck loop: e. Float loop:

C.

Single Jersey

Technical Face

Technical Back

f. Feeder: - a unit which guides a yam to the needles

g. Needle: - an element which forms loops and wales

';1

h. Sinker: - an element on jersey machines which assists needles hold fabric during knitting
i. Tricks: - slots which guide needles during knitting
j. Cylinder: - a cylinder drum which contains slots, needles and

(sometimes)sinkers k. Dial: - a horizontal plate which contains slots and horizontal needles

1. Loop Length: - the average amount of yam in a loop

m.Course length: - the amount of yam required t o knit one complete course cnruuy Run-In: Ravel length: Draw: n. GuageKut: - normally the number of needles per inch Gaiting: - the arrangement of two sets of needles Rib Gaiting: cr/

u
77

IIIIIIIIIIII

0.

77

Interlock Gaiting:
p. Timing: - relative movement between two sets of needles or
~

--

needles and sinkers

q. Negative Feed: - yam pulled from the yam package by the action of the needles

1 0

r. Positive Feed: - yarn metered to the needles at a preset rate s. Yield: - the weight per unit of fabric Oz/yd2: Oflinear yard: Yarddpound: Conversions:

11

C. Knitted Fabric Properties: a. Stretch and Recover:

b. Shrinkage:

c. Crease Resistance:

d. Spirality:

e. Snagging:

f. Pilling:

g. Bulk:

12

D. Notation: a. Verbal:

b. Graphic:
c. Symbolic:
Knit Face Rear Tuck Face Rear Float Face Rear

B E I
Examples:

E l m

17

d. Diagrammatic:
mit(Face)

Knit (Rear) Tuck(Rear) Floatwear)

2L
A
A

Tuck(Face) \d Float (Face) Y Interlock Gaiting

0

m c

'

RibGaiting

o . - c

Examples:

13

E. Loop Classifications And Fabric Modifications: Knit KnitfI'uck length

width

Knit/Float

thickness
cost extensibility effect weight knitability CPI

F. Introduction to Machine Functions And Considerations: a. Creel:

b. Knitting Zone:

c. Fabric Take-up And Collection:

14

3. Jersey Knitting: A. Jersey Knitting Cycles: a. Plain Jersey:

b. Tuck Jersey:

c. Float Jersey:

B. Camming Systems, Raceway U i s And Notation: nt

15

Needle Cylinder

16

Ty picaI Cam System of Single Jersy Machine

Direction O Needle Travel f

NeedleMotionReuuired Cleating

m
Running Knockover

F I

Loop Pulling

L
17

18

Latch Needle Activation

3
i

19

Movements of Latch Needles and Web Holding Sinkers

a
D

20

Knit Loop
B

Tuck Loop Formation

Tuck Loop

21

Float Loop

22

Tuck Stitch Formation

Y
@ !

6
4
P A
Y

4
23

Float Stitch Formation

Float Stitch Formation

24

C. Factors Influencing Knitability And Productivity: a. yam characteristics:

b. yam specifications:

c. yam purchasing and storage:

d. machine character and tensions:

e. fabric structure and tightness:

f. ambient conditions:

g. cleanliness:

h. preventative maintenance:

i. inventory policies:

-- 1

j. operator/technicianload:

25

k. training:

1. detector usage and monitoring:

D. Single Knit Fabric Classifications: Plain Jersey Striped Jersey Flat Jacquard TerryNelour Plaited Jersey

Tuck Jersey Fleece

.E. Specific Jersey Fabric Characteristics:

a. Plain Jersey:

b. Striped Jersey:

c. Tuck Jersey:

26

Knit Loop

Tuck Loop

Float Loop

27

Laying-In Weft Knit Fabric

28

d. Flat Jacquard

e. TerryNelour:

f. Fleece:

g. Plaited Jersey

F. Jersey Fabric Modifications:

29

G. Starfish Concepts: a. Yam Control:

b. Course Length Control:

c. Tension Control:

30

4. Rib Knitting: A. Rib Knitting Cycles: a. Dial and Cylinder Machines: b. V-Bed Machines: B. Gaiting Considerations:

C. Needle Timing Considerations:

D. Rib Fabric Classifications: a. Simple Ribs: 1x1 2x2 6x3 Half' Cardigan b. Complex Ribs: aa. Plain Interlock

2x1 Full Cardigan

3x3 Thermal

Ponte de Roma

bb. Relief Cords

-- -

Blisters

cc. Flat Jacquard 2 Color

3 Color

31

Cylinder and Dial

w Tricks

32

Rib Gaiting

33

Feeder 2 (Short Needles)

34

Rib Camming

Dial Needle

I swingcam Guard Cam

Clearin Cam (Tuck dight)

35

Dial Cam Section

Numbers 1 and 2 show the location of cams which change needles from inoperative position to tuck position. Numbers 3 and 4 show the location of swing cams which work along with the tuck cam to take needles up to knitting position. Numbers 5 and 6 show the location of adjustable stitch cams controlling the size of loops.

SwingCam3

SwingCam 5And6

.
/ /-

short Needle Swing Cam (In Action)

ShortNeedle (In Action)

Tuckcams Long Needle Tuck Cams 2 ( u Of Action) Ot

7a
36

LongNeedle Swin Cam4 ( u 8 f Action) Ot

Timing

CYL TRICKS

CLEAR

I.

Cast

DELAYED TIMING

SYNCHRONIZED
-- -

TIMING

ADVANCED TIMING

Ll \ADVANCED

Dasned line depicis cylinder needle pathSolid line depiz:s dial needies path

37

'V' Bed Rib

38

1 x 1 Rib

39

40

E. Rib Fabric Characteristics: a. Simple Ribs: 1x1

2x2

2x1

3x3

Half Cardigan

Full Cardigan

41

Thermal

Modified

F. ComplexRibs: a. Plain: Interlock

Single Pique

42

Ponte-de-Roma

Swiss Double Pique

Milano Rib

b. Relief Cords

43

Blisters

c. Flat Jacquards: 2 Color

3 Color

5. Fabric Packaging And Handling Considerations:

44

6. Purl Fabrics:

A. Fabric Classifications: a. Plain

b. Fancy

B. Knitting Action:

7. Hosiery: A. Indentification And Knitting Sequences:

B. Machinery Classifications And Overviews: a. Rotary b. Reciprocating

c. Mechanical

d. Electronic

--

e. Jersey

f Ribfir1

45

1 x 1 Purl

Face course

Back course

46

Stitching

f-

---

5#Plain

I -

i
3
47

I
4 (Rib) --

Half-Hoser

48

C. Machinery Vs. Product Classifications:

D. Shaping:

E. Pattern Capabilities:

F. Trends:

G. Special Considerations In Hosiery:

49

8. Machinery Developments And Purchasing Considerations:

A. Developments: B. Considerations:
a. Cost

b. Reputation

c. TrialResults

d. Automation and Patterning

e. Warrantees, Maintenance and Service

f Productivity and Quality

g. Creel Design

--

h. Diameter

50

i. Gauge
j. Feeds

k. Spreader

1. Training

m. Inventory

n. Set-up and Plant Requirements

0.

Cleaning System

p. Lubrication

q. Monitoring System

r. Feeding System
.-

s. Capacity And Doffing System 51

9. Production Calculations:

C. Productivity

53

Name:

Date: Style:

Weft Knit Analysis

Yarn Type: Yarn Count: Courses Per Inch Reading 1 Reading 2 Reading 3 Reading 4 Reading 5
X

Wales Per Inch

SamDle
Tech Face Tech Rear

Loop Length And Run-In Feeder Number 1 2 3 4

Reading 5
LOOP Length

- - - - -

Diameter: cut: Total Needles: Calculated Run-In:

54

11.Knit Fabric Defects

A. Barr6 - Horizontal bands following courses around the tube.

Yam count variations (count uniformity)

Twist yam tension variations

Wrong yam - size, color, blend level, twist direction Uneven oiling or waxing of yam Malfunctioning of storage or tape feeders Crooked dial needle bed Different stitch settings

Faulty cylinder or dial cam settings

Dirt, lint, yam fragments in the cam system, tricks, needles or sinkers Improper threading of yarn Faulty take down-spreader system Machine vibration

55

B. Vertical Lines - Following the wales up the length of the tube usually mechanical.
Broken needles Bent needles - stem, hook - sinkers Dirty needles Bent or stiff latches Closed latches Worn tricks - needles, sinkers
Dirty tricks - needles, sinkers

Dial and cylinder needle misalignment (timing, gaiting problems) - needles rub Improper setting of yam guides Machine vibration Spreader abrasiodcreasing Improperly set spacers on take-up

Folds from too narrow spreading at take-up

Oil lines Wrong needle Mixed needle lots

56

C. Holes - Yarn or mechanical in nature.

High friction - between yam and guides Insufficient wax o r oil
Poor quality (strength, elongation)

Too much yam tension

Knots
Improper yam size for gauge Snarling of yam (twist lively) Slubs, trash Lint (low twist, extreme hairiness, poor cleanliness) Low humidity

static
Improper setting of yam guides Feeder problems (tight, rough places) Faulty height adjustment of sinkers

Baa! c!6417;fl3

57

D. Stitch Runs - Random Or Continuous.

Yam tension too high (check yam path) Yam snagging Yam snarling - knots

Too high machine starting speed

Low yam tensions during running

Incorrect feeding of the yam Inaccurate setting of distance between dial and cylinder Improper take-down tension Defective needle Defective sinker Machine vibration

58

E. Dropped Stitches
Improper setting of yam camer Obstructed yam carrier Improper needle timing between dial and cylinder Twist liveliness of yarn Bad needle (bent latch, hook)

Too tight of stitch (run-in or cam setting)

High yam tension

Too high of a dial height Too high take-down tension

59