I N T E R W E A V E

INTERW E AV E

SPECIAL
ISSUE!
KNITS

SPECIAL ISSUE 2009

60 Favorite interweaveknits.com
60+ FAVORITE SCARVES, HATS, SOCKS & MITTS SIMPLE GET STARTED WITH SOCKS QUICK FINISHING TIPS

+ Scarves, Hats
Socks & Mitts
Scarves
Simple to Complex
Fun Hats
Plain & Patterned
Sock Patterns
for Family, Friends & You

Mitts & Gloves

to Warm Your Hands

Simple
Get Started with Socks
Top Techniques for
Great Results SMALL
Quick Finishing Tips
SPECIAL ISSUE 2009

PROJECT
S
Small
Budgets
 Small Projects – Big Results
Dress it up with

BABY ALPACA GRANDE

16 4 5 17 5 6 17 5 1

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 contents
Interweave Knits Accessories • SPECIAL ISSUE 2009

T EC H N IQU E FE AT U R E S
26 Making Sense of Symbols
46 Finish ing D etai l s
66 C i rc u l a r K n i t t i n g
81 G e t t i n g S t a r te d w i t h S o c k s
116 T he Grand P l an Mitten C h ar t

11
PROJ EC T S

Sim ple S c a r v e s
8 Here and There C a b les
Norah Gau gha n Instructions page 14 42
9 Bur m a R ing s Sc a r f
An n Bu dd Instructions page 14
Fanc y Scar ves Wra ps
9 N ec k War mer
2 8 F o rbe s F o re st 4 2 O re n bu rg L a c e Tr ian g le
Emily Bix ler Instructions page 16
Ka t h y Z i m m e r m a n Instructions page 32 G a l i n a Kh m e l e v a Instructions page 50
9 Verde 4 2 Ru ff l e d Ca pe l e t wit h S le e ve s
2 9 F ro th y S c a rf
Emily Bix ler Instructions page 16 P a m A l l e n Instructions page 52
A n n Bu d d Instructions page 33
10 Pom - po m Sc a r f 4 3 S u m m e r S h a w l et t e
2 9 N e v e r W i m py W i m pl e
Kristin Nicho l a s Instructions page 18 S a n d i Wi s e h e a r t Instructions page 53
Priscilla Gibson-Roberts
Instructions page 34
11 Huc kle b er r y As c o t 43 Lace Poncho
Kat Coy le Instructions page 18 S u s a n S t e r n l i e b Instructions page 55
3 0 S h i bo ri - e squ e N e c k Wra p
M a g s Ka n d i s Instructions page 35
11 Mist y G a rd en 43 Mini Poncho
J o S harp Instructions page 20 M e e m a S p a d o l a Instructions page 56
3 1 V i n ta ge Ve l v e t
L i s a D a n i e l s Instructions page 36
11 Midw est M o o nlig ht 4 3 Ch u n k y L a c e Wr ap
I v y Bigelow Instructions page 20 L i s a S h r o y e r Instructions page 56
3 1 Ru ssi a n L a c e S c a rf
D i x i e F a l l s a n d J a n e F ou r n i e r
12 Zigz ag St r ip es 4 4 A rro w h e a d S tole
Instructions page 36
Debbie Bli s s Instructions page 22 Mary Jane Mucklestone Instructions page 57
3 1 L a rk spu r S c a rf 4 4 S ta r Ri b M e sh P on ch o
12 Penobs c o t Silk Sc a r f
Ka r a G ot t Instructions page 38 Mary Jane Mucklestone Instructions page 57
Cy ren e S lego na Instructions page 22
3 5 F e l t i n g Re s ou r c e s 4 4 S to c k i n e tte a n d S e e d Pon ch o
12 Fr ill Co lla r
Emily Bix ler Instructions page 24 3 7 L a c e Kn i t t i n g H i n t s C y r e n e S l e g o n a Instructions page 58

4 4 L i ttl e A rro w h e ad S h awl

17 Stri pes
P a m A l l e n Instructions page 58

5 0 G r a f t i n g T e ch n i qu e

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 123

99
PROJ EC T S continued

Hat s Simple S o ck s Mitts and Gloves

60 Ko o lha a s H a t 8 8 Ri b a n d Ca bl e S o c k s 1 1 8 S u bw a y M i tten s
J are d F lood Instructions page 68 N a n c y Bu s h Instructions page 92 C ol l e e n M e a g h e r Instructions page 124

61 Sabr ina Ta m 8 9 Ba by ’s F i rst S o c k 1 1 9 Co r n f l o w e r M it t s

I nterweav e K ni ts Sta f f Instructions page 69
61 Sidew a y s G r a nd e H a t
Lau ra I rwin Instructions page 69
62 Dec em b er L ig ht s Ta m
Mary Jane Mucklestone Instructions page 70
63 Lo c k N es t H a t
Teri Barr Instructions page 71
63 Ear flap H a t s
I nterweav e K ni ts Sta f f Instructions page 72
63 Lar kspur H a t
Kara Gott Instructions page 73
64 Peek- A-B o o C lo c he
Mona S c hm i dt Instructions page 74
65 Tw eed B eret
Kristen TenD y k e Instructions page 75
65 Br ioc he H elmet H a t
Kelly Bridg es Instructions page 76
65 Molly’s H ea d b a nd
Pam Alle n Instructions page 79
7 9 L a c e Ti ps
A n n Bu d d Instructions page 93
8 9 Co w gi rl S l i ppe r S o c k s
A n n Bu d d Instructions page 94
9 0 Ci tri n e S o c k l e ts
M a r i l y n We b s t e r Instructions page 95
9 1 I n f a n t’s F a n c y S i l k S o c k
N a n c y Bu s h Instructions page 97
9 5 Ol d N or w e g i a n
C a s t - On
9 6 Y a r n ov e r Ba c k w a r d
96 Sssp Decrease
Fanc y S o ck s
9 8 U p- D o w n S pi ra l S o x
S a n d y C u s h m a n Instructions page 103
9 9 Ba z a a r S o c k s
P r i s c i l l a G i b s on - Rob e r t s
Instructions page 104
9 9 A l go n qu i n S o c k s
G a y l e Bu n n Instructions page 108
1 0 0 A H o l i da y S to c k i n g
N a n c y Bu s h Instructions page 109
D e b or a h N e w t on Instructions page 124
1 2 0 M o sa i c M i tts
S a n d y C u s h m a n Instructions page 125
1 2 0 A l pa c a G l o v es
L e s l i e S c a n l on Instructions page 126
1 2 0 Ke e p T h e m War m Wr ist le t s
S u s a n S t r a w n Instructions page 127
1 2 1 T h e P o i n t A b ou t Cu ffs
V i c k i S q u a r e Instructions page 128
1 2 2 J e S u i s J o l i e Mit t s
C l a r a P a r k e s Instructions page 128
1 2 3 L a y e re d Tu rkish Glove s
M a r i L y n n P a t r i c k Instructions page 129
1 2 3 Kn i t Cu ff s w it h a Cab le Twist
D e b o r a h P u l l i a m Instructions page 131
1 2 3 F i n ge rl e ss Mit t s
D e b o r a h N e w t o n Instructions page 131
132 Cables

On the Cover: Larkspur Scarf and Hat.
See projects on pages 31 and 63
1 0 0 A n n e tre l a c S o c k s
S a n d y Be a d l e Instructions page 111 DEP T S
1 0 0 Tra v e l e r’s S to c k i n gs
N a n c y Bu s h Instructions page 112 4 Stra nds

1 0 1 Be l l s & W h i stl e s S o c k s 133 Glo ssa ry

M on a S c h m i d t Instructions page 113
136 So urces for Supplies
1 0 2 W i sh bo n e S o c k s
N a n c y Bu s h Instructions page 115
137 A dvertisers ’ Index
1 0 4 S e t u p f or Wor k i n g a
Square Toe in the Round 142 Pro ject Index
1 0 4 P i c k i n g u p A f t e r t h ou g h t 144 R a velings
Heel Stitches
Jenni fer Na s tu
105 Ssp Decrease
1 0 5 S h o r t - Row T o e & H e e l

62 C on s t r u c t i on
1 1 0 Ki h n u V i t s

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 ADVERTISEMENT

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 s t ra n d s

Accessories 2009

KNITS ACCESSORIES EDITORIAL

EDITOR Marilyn Murphy
ASSISTANT EDITOR Amy Palmer

KNI T S ACCE SSOR IE S CR E AT IVE SERVICE S

DESIGNER Pamela Norman
PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Jeff Rowles

KNITS EDITORIAL
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Marilyn Murphy
EDITOR Eunny Jang
MANAGING EDITOR Laura Rintala

SENIOR EDITOR Lisa Shroyer

ASSISTANT EDITOR Sharon Riggs

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Rebecca Daniels

YARN GROUP ASSISTANT EDITOR Amy Palmer

KNITS CREATIVE SERVICES

DESIGNER Kit Kinseth
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Trish Faubion
PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Dean Howes

PRODUCTION EDITOR Nancy Arndt

PHOTOGRAPHY

PROJECTSAs noted
ILLUSTRATION Gayle Ford, Marjorie Leggitt
PUBLISHING
GROUP PUBLISHER David Pyle
Many of us here MEDIA SALES DIRECTOR Julie Macdonald
DISPLAY ADVERTISING MANAGERS Tiffany Zerges,

at Interweave are Leanne Pressly

AD TRAFFICKERS Melissa Marie Brown, Teresa Warren

hardcore knitters. CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING Stephanie Griess

MARKETING MANAGER Annie Hartman Bakken

CIRCULATION MANAGER Jodi Smith

In fact, the Interweave “lineage” includes a number of knitters who, through the
pages of our magazines and books, have helped you learn good solid techniques,
improved your skills, and inspired you through their projects and the projects of
many talented designers. We knit in our heads as we read patterns, and we knit
with our hands, which add up to our staff projects that we share with you. And
we hear directly from you, our dear readers.
In fact, our customer service staff hears from you often with such questions
as, “I want to make the hat that I saw in such-and-such magazine (or book), but
I can’t find that issue.” Or “I can’t remember what issue the blue cabled scarf was
in. Can you help me?” So we decided to make it easy for you to find many of the
accessories all in one place. From the archives, we culled and collected projects
that are both our favorites and ones we think you’ll enjoy making.
Through these pages, we hope you’ll find the perfect scarf, sock, hat or mitt.
Or, if a few years back, you weren’t quite ready to tackle making a sock but you
are now, you can get started with the guidance from expert Ann Budd. Or, you
want to try a new edging for a scarf you just finished: check out Finishing Details.
Need help reading a chart—find it on page 26. Oh, there’s plenty more.
What better time for this collection than during the season when you want to
knit something quickly as a gift or have a hat, scarf or mitts at-the-ready when
the snow fl ies.
Wishing you hours of happy clicking,
Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use
only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the
contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur.
If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please
visit us online at www.interweaveknits.com/corrections.
Interweave Knits does not recommend, approve, or endorse
any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised
in Knits. Nor does Knits evaluate the advertisers’ claims in
any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment
in evaluating the advertisers, products, services, and views
advertised in Knits.
Interweave Knits (ISSN 1088-3622) is published quarterly
by Interweave Press LLC, 201 E. Fourth St., Loveland, CO
80537-5655. (970) 669-7672. USPS #017-249. Periodicals
postage paid at Loveland, CO 80538, and additional mailing
offices. All contents of this issue of Interweave Knits are copy-
righted by Interweave Press LLC, 2009. All rights reserved.
Projects and information are for inspiration and personal
use only. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited,
except by permission of the publisher. Subscription rate is
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POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Inter-
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Visit the Interweave website at interweave.com.
For advertising information, call Tiffany Zerges at
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For sales information, call (800) 272-2193,
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For editorial inquiries, call (800) 272-2193,
e-mail knits@interweave.com, or write to 201 E. Fourth
Street, Loveland, CO 80537-5655.

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 Independent Publishers Since 1975

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Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 5

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 BAZAAR SOCKS
by Priscilla Gibson-Roberts
Page 104

knitting connection • website listings to advertise here

call Stephanie Griess at (877) 613-4630

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6 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com

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 GIFT GUIDE: Sock, Mittens, Scarves & More

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Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 7

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 SIMPLE
SCA RV ES
Simple scarves are a simple pleasure. All it takes is a little
effort, some basic stitches and tools, and a stash of yarns.

HERE AND THERE CABLES

by Norah Gaughan
YARN Reynolds Odyssey, distributed by JCA
Page 14

8 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com

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 NECK WARMER
by Emily Bixler
YARN Classic Elite Inca Alpaca
Page 16

VERDE
BURMA RINGS SCARF by Emily Bixler
by Ann Budd YARN Classic Elite Inca Alpaca
YARN Crystal Palace Cotton Chenille Page 16
Page 14

Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 9

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 POM-POM SCARF
by Kristin Nicholas
YARN Classic Elite La Gran
Page 18

10 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com

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 MISTY GARDEN
by Jo Sharp
YARN GGH Soft Kid, distributed by Muench Yarns
Page 20

HUCKLEBERRY ASCOT MIDWEST MOONLIGHT

by Kat Coyle by Ivy Bigelow
YARN Blue Sky Alpacas Mélange YARN Green Mountain Spinnery Cotton Comfort
Page 18 Page 20

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 ZIGZAG STRIPES
by Debbie Bliss
YARN Filatura Di Crosa Zara, distributed by Tahki Stacy Charles
Page 22
PENOBSCOT SILK SCARF
by Cyrene Slegona
YARN Fiesta Yarns La Luz
Page 22

FRILL COLLAR
by Emily Bixler
YARN Filatura Di Crosa Baby Kid Extra and Aiko,
distributed by Tahki Stacy Charles
Page 24

12 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com

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HERE AND THERE
CABLES
Norah Gaughan
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size 7½" wide and 72" long.
Yarn Reynolds Odyssey (100% Merino; 104
yd [95 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #408
light green mix, 8 balls. Yarn distributed by
JCA.
Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust needle size
if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.
Gauge 20 sts and 25 rows = 4" in St st.
NOTES
• Because this pattern has an odd number
of rows, the cable row will alternate be-
tween the “right” and “wrong” sides each
time it is worked.
SCARF
CO 74 sts. Work reversible cable patt as foll:
Rows 1–6: P1, *k3, p3; rep from * to last st,
k1.
Row 7: *Sl 6 sts onto cn and hold in front,
p1, k3, p1, sl last st from cn to left needle and
purl it, (p1, k3, p1) from cn, p2, k3, p2; rep
from * to last 2 sts, p1, k1.
14 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_008-025_SS.indd 14
Rep Rows 1–7 until piece measures about 72"
from beg, ending with Row 5 of patt. BO all
sts in patt on next row.
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends. Block gently, spreading
out scarf slightly.
Norah Gaughan is the design director for Ber-
roco Yarns and author of Knitting Nature: 39
Designs Inspired by Patterns in Nature.
This project was excerpted from Scarf Style
(Interweave, 2004).
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan
BURMA RINGS
SCARF
Ann Budd
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size About 3½" wide and 82½" long.
Yarn Crystal Palace Cotton Chenille (100%
cotton; 98 yd [89 m]/50 g; Chunky #5
Bulky): #1404 dark lilac (A), 2 skeins; #9660
purple(B), #4021 red velvet (C), #9784
lacquer red (D), and #1219 bougainvilla (E), 1
skein each.
Needles Size 5 (3.75 mm): 40" circular (cir).
Notions Tapestry needle.
Gauge About 15 sts and 24 rows = 4" in St st.
Exact gauge is not critical for this project, but
differences in gauge may produce a scarf with
different finished dimensions.
SCARF
With A, CO 310 sts. Beg with a RS row, work
back and forth in rows as foll:
10162009143801
Rows 1–5: With A, work 5 rows even in St
st (knit RS rows; purl WS rows).
Rows 6–9: With B, work 4 rows even in
rev St st (purl RS rows; knit WS rows).
Row 10: (WS; tuck row) Fold last 4 rows
in half along purl side of fabric, forming
a tuck protruding to the RS to bring Row
5 (last row worked with A) up close to the
needle. With B, *insert needle through purl
bump of Row 5 directly below next st on
needle, then through st on needle, then
knit through both loops tog; rep from * to
end of row—fi rst tuck completed.
Rows 11–15: With C, rep Rows 1–5.
Rows 16–19: With D, rep Rows 6–9.
Row 20: (WS, tuck row) Fold last 4 rows
in half as for Row 10 to bring last row of
previous color stripe up close to the needle;
when working Row 20 this will be Row 15,
the last row worked with C. With D, *insert
needle through purl bump of last row of
previous color stripe directly below next st
on needle, then through st on needle, then
knit through both loops; rep from * to end
of row.
Rows 21–25: With E, rep Rows 11–15.
Rows 26–30: With A, rep Rows 16–20,
using A for tuck Row 30.
Rows 31–35: With B, rep Rows 11–15.
Rows 36–40: With C, rep Rows 16–20,
using C for tuck Row 40.
Rows 41–45: With D, rep Rows 11–15.
Rows 46–50: With E, rep Rows 16–20,
using E for tuck Row 50.
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 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 15

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 With A, work 2 rows even in St st.
BO all sts.
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends, hiding ends in center
of tucks when possible. No blocking is
necessary.
Ann Budd is the former senior editor of
Interweave Knits and is currently a book
editor. She writes and knits in Boulder,
Colorado.
This project was excerpted from Folk Style
(Interweave, 2007).
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan
NECK WARMER
Emily Bixler
Skill Level Beginner
Finished Size About 3¾" wide and 28"
long at longer edge.
Yarn Classic Elite Inca Alpaca (100%
alpaca; 109 yd [100 m]/50 g; Worsted #4
Medium): #1198 persimmon, 2 skeins.
Needles Size 10 (6.00 mm). Adjust needle
size if necessary to obtain the correct
gauge.
Notions Tapestry needle.
Gauge 13½ sts and 11 rows = 2" in k1, p1
rib, relaxed, with yarn doubled.
SCARF
With 2 strands of yarn held tog, CO 25 sts.
Set-up row: *K1, p1; rep from * to last st,
k1. Work in rib as established (knit the
knits; purl the purls) for 15 more rows—
piece measures about 3" from CO. Shape
slits: Keeping in rib patt as established,
16 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_008-025_SS.indd 16
make slits as foll:
Row 1: (RS) Work 3 rib sts, BO 7 sts, work
15 rib sts.
Row 2: Work 15 rib sts, use the backward
loop method (see Glossary) to CO 7 sts, work
3 rib sts.
Rows 3 and 4: Work 2 rows even in rib.
Row 5: Work 15 rib sts, BO 7 sts, work 3 rib
sts.
Row 6: Work 3 rib sts, use the backward loop
method to CO 7 sts, work 15 rib sts. VERDE
Work even in rib until piece measures 11" Emily Bixler
from CO, ending with a WS row.
Divide tails: Divide for two “tails” as foll: Skill Level Intermediate
(RS) Work 11 rib sts, BO 3 sts, work 11 rib
sts—11 sts each side. Working with the Finished Size 20" circumference and 3½"
group of sts where the yarn is attached, cont high.
in rib as established until this side of piece Yarn Classic Elite Inca Alpaca, 100%
measures 28" from CO. BO all sts in rib patt. alpaca; 109 yd [100 m]/50 g; Worsted #4
Rejoin yarn to other group of 11 sts with WS Medium): #1108 lamas heather (A), 1
facing, and work these sts even in rib until skein; #1135 cala cala moss (B), 1 skein;
this side of piece measures 26½" from CO. BO #1130 dahlia (C), 1 skein.
all sts. Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm) needles. Adjust
needle size if necessary to obtain correct
FINISHING gauge.
Weave in loose ends. To wear, wrap scarf Notions Tapestry needle.
around neck, and thread tails through slits. Gauge 20 sts and 22 rows = 4" in St st.
Emily Bixler lives and knits in Portland,
Oregon. NOTES
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan • Collar is knit in rows as a fl at piece,
then sewn into a tube. Yarnovers in the
collar leave holes through which the leaf
tie will be threaded.
• Only change colors when row instruc-
tions specify to do so.
COLLAR
With A, CO 100 sts.
Row 1: (RS) K3, *p3, k4; rep from * to last
6 sts, p3, k3.
Row 2: (WS) P3, *k3, p4; rep from * to last
6 sts, k3, p3.
Row 3: Rep Row 1.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Row 5: With B, k1f&b, knit to end—101
sts.
Row 6: With C, purl.
Row 7: With A, k1, *sl 1 pwise, k1; rep
from * to end of row.
Row 8: With B, k1, *with yarn in front, sl
1 pwise, take yarn to back, k1; rep from *
to end of row.
10/16/09 3:15:43 PM
10162009151553
 Row 9: With C, knit. BO all sts in rib pattern. SECOND LEAF
Row 10: With A, purl. Sew side seam, making collar into a tube. Row 1: (WS) K1, [k1f&b] 2 times, k1—6
Row 11: K2tog, knit to end—100 sts rem. Weave in ends. sts.
Row 12: Purl. Row 2: (RS) Knit.
Row 13: (eyelet row) K3, *k2tog, [yo] 2 LEAF TIE Row 3: K1, k1f&b, knit to last 2 sts,
times, ssk, k3; rep from * to last 6 sts, With B, CO 2 sts. k1f&b, k1—8 sts.
k2tog, [yo] 2 times, ssk, k2. Row 1: (RS) Knit. Rep Rows 2 and 3 until you have 16 sts,
Row 14: P3, *p fi rst yo, k second yo, p5; Row 2: (WS) [K1f&b] 2 times—4 sts. then rep Row 2 again.
rep from * to last 6 sts, p first yo, k second Row 3: Knit. Next row: (WS) K1, k2tog, knit to last 3
yo, p4. Row 4: K1, [k1f&b] 2 times, k1—6 sts. sts, k2tog, k1. Next row: (RS) Knit. Rep
Row 15: Knit. Row 5: Knit. last 2 rows until you have 2 sts left. BO all
Row 16: Purl. Row 6: K1, k1f&b, knit to last 2 sts, k1f&b, sts. Weave in ends.
Row 17 : With C, k1f&b, knit to end—101 k1—8 sts.
sts. Rep Rows 5 and 6 until you have 16 sts; stop FINISHING
Row 18: With B, purl. working after finishing a RS row. Fold one leaf up tightly and lace tie
Row 19: With A, rep Row 7. through eyelets. Pull collar over your head
Row 20: With C, rep Row 8. TIE and tie ends of leaf tie together.
Row 21: With B, k2tog, knit to end—100 Row 1: (WS) K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts,
sts rem. k2tog, k1. Emily Bixler lives and knits in Portland,
Row 22: With A, purl. Row 2: (RS) Knit. Oregon.
Row 23: Rep Row 1. Rep Rows 1 and 2 until you have 4 sts left.
Project Photos: Ken Frantz
Row 24: Rep Row 2. Next row: (WS) Purl. Next row: (RS) Knit.
Row 25: Rep Row 1. Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 18" from
Row 26: Rep Row 2. beg tip of leaf.

STRIPES
Stripes are an easy way to add multiple colors to your work. They
can be as narrow or as bold as you desire, and you can use many
stripes in one project. Several shades of one hue give a subtle,
almost dimensional effect, while contrasting colors make a work
vibrate. Stripes are a fun way to experiment with color effects
that can be further enhanced by stripe width and placement.
When you’re working stripes back and forth in rows, it is easier,
but not essential, to work in two-row increments so that all
stripes begin on a knit row; in this way the yarn will always be at
the edge where you need it. When you’re working narrow stripes
of just a few colors, it is not necessary to cut the yarn when you
change colors—the unused color can be carried loosely up the
side of your work for a few rows (Figure 1) or you can carry the
colors for more than two rows by twisting the colors every other
row (Figure 2). If you are working circularly, the yarn will always
be at the beginning of the round.
To change colors, simply begin a new row (or round) with your new
color. If the edge stitch seems too loose, you can tie the yarn end
temporarily (you will undo the knot and work the end in later) to
the color you are stopping close to the edge of your work (Figure 3).
Proceed with the new color for the desired number of rows and then
either return to the original color or add yet another color. When
you are finished, work the yarn ends carefully into the backside of
the matching color (Figure 4).

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4

Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 17

KA_008-025_SS.indd 17 10/16/09 2:35:37 PM

10162009143802

POM-POM
SCARF
Kristin Nicholas
Skill Level Beginner
Finished Size 5" wide at center, 10¼" wide
at ends, and 41½" long.
Yarn Classic Elite La Gran (76.5% mohair,
17.5% wool, 6% nylon; 90 yd [82 m]/42 g;
Worsted #4 Medium): #6525 sunflower
(yellow), #61555 tangerine (orange), #6572
underappreciated green, and #6546 azure
(turquoise), 1 skein each.
Needles Size 10½ (6.5 mm). Adjust needle
size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Tapestry needle; pom-pom maker
to make 1¾" pom-pom.
Gauge 12 sts and 17 rows = 4" in garter st.
NOTES
• Carry the unused yarn up the selvedge
edge, being careful not to pull so tight
as to affect the length.
SCARF
First half: With orange, CO 15 sts (counts
as 1 row of stripe patt). Knit 1 row. Join
green and knit 2 rows. *Knit 2 rows orange,
knit 2 rows green; rep from * until a total of
25 stripes (13 orange, 12 green) have been
worked—piece should measure about 12½"
from CO.
Inc row 1: Cont in patt, *k3, M1 (see Glos-
sary); rep from * 3 more times, k3—19 sts.
Knit 7 rows in patt (4 stripes). Inc row 2:
*K4, M1; rep from * 3 more times, k3—23
sts. Knit 7 rows in patt.
Inc row 3: *K5, M1; rep from * 3 more
times, end k3—27 sts. Knit 7 rows in patt.
Inc row 4: *K6, M1; rep from * 3 more
times, k3—31 sts. Knit 14 rows in patt—
piece measures about 20¾" from CO. BO
18 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_008-025_SS.indd 18
all sts. Second half: With yellow, CO 15 sts.
Work as first half, substituting yellow for
orange and substituting turquoise for green.
FINISHING
With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle
and RS facing, sew the CO edges of the two
pieces tog. Weave in loose ends. Pom-poms:
Using a 1¾" pom-pom maker (see page 48),
make two pom-poms of each color. With
yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew the
orange and green pom-poms alternately to
the CO edge of turquoise and yellow half.
Sew the turquoise and yellow pom-poms to
the orange and green half.
Kristin Nicholas is a knitwear and stitchery
author and designer who lives in the wilds of
western Massachusetts. Visit her website at
www.kristinnicholas.com.
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan
HUCKLEBERRY
ASCOT
Kat Coyle
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size 5" wide at center and 11½"
wide at each end; 30½" long.
Yarn Blue Sky Alpacas Mélange (100% baby
alpaca; 110 yd [100 m]/50 g; Sportweight #2
Fine): #805 huckleberry, 2 skeins.
Needles Size 6 (4 mm): 24" circular (cir).
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the
correct gauge.
Notions Tapestry needle.
Gauge 16 sts and 40 rows = 4" in garter st.
Stitch Guide
Make Bobble (MB): Knit into front, back,
10162009143802
front, back, and front again of same st,
turn, k5, turn, k5, turn, k5, turn, k5, sl
2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th sts over first st,
sl rem st back to left needle and knit it
through the back loop (k1tbl).
NOTES
• Scarf is worked sideways from long
side to long side. Both ends of scarf are
worked with short-rows to make a wide
bell shape. After scarf is completed,
stitches are picked up along both short
ends and bobbles are worked as a deco-
rative accent.
ASCOT
CO 120 sts.
Row 1: (RS) Knit.
Row 2: (WS) Knit.
Work short-rows (see Glossary) on the right
end as foll:
Row 3: (RS) K18, wrap next st, turn.
Row 4: (WS) K18.
Row 5: K14, wrap next st, turn.
Row 6: K14.
Row 7: K10, wrap next st, turn.
Row 8: K10.
Row 9: K6, wrap next st, turn.
Row 10: K6.
Row 11: Knit all sts, working wraps tog
with wrapped sts as you come to them.
Rows 12–13: Knit.
Shape left end:
Row 14: (WS) K18, wrap next st, turn.
Row 15: (RS) K18.
Row 16: K14, wrap next st, turn.
Row 17: K14.
Row 18: K10, wrap next st, turn.
Row 19: K10.
Row 20: K6, wrap next st, turn.
Row 21: K6.
Row 22: Knit all sts, working wraps tog
with wrapped sts as you come to them.
10/16/09 2:35:38 PM
 the gift of handmade

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KA_019_IWP Bks AD.indd 19 10/16/09 2:37:57 PM

10162009143835
 Rows 23–24: Knit.
Rep Rows 3–24 seven more times. BO all
sts.
FINISHING
Edges: With RS of left short end facing,
pick up and knit 115 sts along the short,
flared edge. Next row: (WS) Knit. Next
row: (RS) K1, *MB (see Stitch Guide), k6;
rep from * to last 2 sts, MB, k1—17 bobbles
total. BO all sts. Rep for opposite short
edge. Weave in all loose ends. Block.
Kat Coyle is the author of Boho Baby Knits:
Groovy Patterns for Cool Tots (Potter Craft,
2007), a collection of knitting patterns for
little ones. You can see more of her work at
www.katcoyle.com.
Project Photos: Joe Hancock
MISTY GARDEN
Jo Sharp
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size 7" wide and 59" long, after
blocking.
Yarn GGH Soft Kid (70% kid mohair, 25%
nylon, 5% wool; 150 yd [137 m]/25 g; Aran
#4 Medium): #87, 2 balls. Yarn distributed
by Muench Yarns.
Needles Size 8 (5 mm). Adjust needle size
if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Tapestry needle.
Gauge 21 sts and 20 rows = 4" in pattern st.
SCARF
CO 38 sts. Work in patt as foll:
Row 1: (RS) Knit.
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: K1, *[k2tog] 3 times, [yo, k1] 6
20 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_008-025_SS.indd 20
Notions Tapestry needle.
Gauge 21 sts and 32 rows = 4" in
garter st.
SCARF
CO 49 sts. Knit 3 rows. Cont as foll:
Rows 1, 3, 5, and 7: (RS) *[K2tog, yo] four
times, k8; rep from * two more times, end k1.
Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: *K9, p7; rep from * to
last st, k1.
Rows 9, 11, 13, and 15: K1, *k8, [yo, ssk]
times, [k2tog] 3 times; rep from * to last st, four times; rep from *.
k1. Rows 10, 12, 14, and 16: K1, *p7, k9; rep
Row 4: Knit. from *.
Rep Rows 1–4 until piece measures about 59" Rep Rows 1–16 a total of 25 times (400 patt
from beg. BO all sts. rows). Knit 3 rows. BO all sts.
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends. Block lightly, if desired.
Jo Sharp is a knitwear and yarn designer from
Australia.
This project was excerpted from Scarf Style
(Interweave, 2004).
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends. Block lightly, if desired.
Ivy Bigelow is a former editorial assistant for
Interweave Knits.
MIDWEST This project was excerpted from Scarf Style
MOONLIGHT (Interweave, 2004).
Ivy Bigelow Project Photos: Carol Kaplan
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size 10" wide and 60" long, after
blocking.
Yarn Green Mountain Spinnery Cotton
Comfort (80% wool, 20% organic cotton;
180 yd [165 m]/2 oz; Sportweight #2 Fine):
bluet, 3 skeins.
Needles Size 6 (4 mm). Adjust needle size if
necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
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10162009143817
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Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 21

KA_021_MISC ADs.indd 21 10/16/09 2:38:18 PM

10162009143850

ZIGZAG STRIPES
Debbie Bliss
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size Adult scarf measures 6"
wide and 72" long; child’s scarf measures
4½" wide and 38" long, not including pom-
poms.
Yarn Filatura Di Crosa Zara (100% Merino,
136 yd [124 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium).
For adult’s scarf: #1389 navy, #1472
bright light blue, #1503 olive green, #1790
mustard, #1784 deep purple, #1780 bottle
green, 1 ball each. For child’s scarf: #1780
bottle green, 2 balls; #1389 navy, #1472
bright light blue, #1503 olive green, #1790
mustard, #1784 deep purple, 1 ball each.
Yarn distributed by Tahki Stacy Charles.
Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust needle
size if necessary to obtain the correct
gauge.
Notions Tapestry needle; cardboard or
pom-pom maker for child’s version.
22 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_008-025_SS.indd 22
Gauge 34 sts and 26 rows = 4" in chevron
patt.
Stitch Guide
Chevron Pattern:
Row 1: (RS) K1, ssk, *k9, sl 2 sts individually
pwise, k1, p2sso; rep from * to last 12 sts, k9,
k2tog, k1.
Row 2: K1, *p1, k4, (k1, yo, k1) all in next st,
k4; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1, k1.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 for pattern.
ADULT SCARF
With deep purple, CO 51 sts. Knit 1 row. Beg
with Row 1, work chevron patt, changing
colors according to the foll stripe sequence: 6
rows navy, 6 rows bright light blue, 6 rows ol-
ive green, 2 rows mustard, 6 rows bottle green,
6 rows deep purple—32 rows total. Rep this
32-row stripe sequence until scarf measures
about 72" from beg, ending with 6 rows of
bottle green. Change to deep purple and work
Row 1 of chevron patt. With deep purple, BO
all sts kwise.
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends. Block lightly, if desired.
CHILD’S SCARF
With bottle green, CO 39 sts. Knit 1 row. Beg
with Row 1, work chevron patt, changing
colors according to the foll stripe sequence:
*2 rows navy, 2 rows bright light blue, 2 rows
olive green, 2 rows mustard,* 2 rows bottle
green, 2 rows deep purple; rep from * to *
once more. Change to bottle green and work
in chevron patt without stripes until piece
measures about 34½", ending with Row 2 of
patt. Cont in chevron patt, changing colors
according to the foll stripe sequence: **2 rows
mustard, 2 rows olive green, 2 rows bright
light blue, 2 rows navy,** 2 rows deep purple,
2 rows bottle green; rep from ** to ** once
more. Change to deep purple and work
Row 1 of chevron patt. With deep purple, BO
all sts kwise.
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends. Block lightly, if desired.
Make seven pom-poms (see page 48), two each
in olive green, mustard, and navy, and one in
bright light blue. Attach three pom-poms to
the points at one end of scarf, and four pom-
10192009101519
poms to points at the other end.
Debbie Bliss lives in London where she
designs knitwear, writes books, and markets
her own line of handknitting yarn. Visit her at
www.debbieblissonline.com.
This project was excerpted from Scarf Style
(Interweave, 2007).
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan
PENOBSCOT
SILK SCARF
Cyrene Slegona
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size 5¾" wide and 41" long.
Yarn Fiesta Yarns La Luz (100% silk; 210 yd
[192 m]/2 oz; Worsted #4 medium): #3320
arctic ice, 1 skein.
Needles Size 6 (4 mm). Adjust needle size if
necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Tapestry needle; stitch markers (m).
Gauge 22 sts and 29 rows = 4" in St st.
Stitch Guide
Little Arrowhead Lace: (multiple of 6 sts
+1)
Row 1: (RS) K1, *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1;
rep from * to end.
Rows 2 and 4: (WS) Purl.
Row 3: K2, *yo, sl 2 kwise as if to k2tog, k1,
p2sso, yo, k3; rep from * to last 5 sts, yo, sl 2
kwise as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso, yo, k2.
Rep Rows 1–4 for pattern.
SCARF
Loosely CO 33 sts. Working fi rst and last st
of every row in garter st (knit every row) for
edge sts, work 7 rows even in St st, beg and
10/19/09 10:12:02 AM
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Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 23

KA_023_MISC ADs.indd 23 10/16/09 2:38:43 PM

10162009143906
 ending with a RS row. Next row: (WS)
K1 (edge st), p3, place marker (pm), purl
to last 4 sts, pm, p3, k1 (edge st)—8 St st
rows completed. Next row: (RS) K4, slip
marker (sl m), work Row 1 of Little Ar-
rowhead Lace patt (see Stitch Guide) over
center 25 sts, sl m, k4. Cont in established
patts, working edge sts in garter st, center
25 sts in Little Arrowhead Lace, and rem
sts outside lace patt in St st, until 7 reps of
lace patt have been completed—28 rows
total in lace patt. Maintaining edge sts in
garter st, work 8 rows even in St st, ending
with a WS row. Rep the last 36 rows (28
lace rows followed by 8 St st rows) 7 more
times—296 rows total from CO edge;
eight 28-row lace panels; nine 8-row St st
panels. BO all sts loosely.
FINISHING
With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle,
weave in loose ends. Pin scarf to measure-
ments and mist lightly with water; allow
to dry completely.
Cyrene Slegona is a former editorial advisor
for Interweave Knits.
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
FRILL COLLAR
Emily Bixler
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size 21¼" circumference and
4¼" high.
Yarn Filatura di Crosa Baby Kid Extra
(80% kid mohair, 20% nylon; 268 yd
[245 m]/25 g; Fingering #1 Super Fine):
#301 white, A, 1 ball; Filatura di Crosa
24 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_008-025_SS.indd 24
Aiko (80% cashmere, 20% polyamide; 63 Row 6: K1, k1f&b, knit to last 2 sts,
yd [57 m]/25 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #30 k1f&b, k1.
lavender, B, 1 ball. Yarns distributed by Tahki Rep Rows 5 and 6 until you have 20 sts;
Stacy Charles. then rep Row 5 again.
Needles Size 8 (5 mm): 16" circular needle,
size 6 (4 mm) straight needles. Adjust needle TIE
size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Row 1: (WS) K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts,
Notions Tapestry needle, stitch marker (m). k2tog, k1.
Gauge 15 sts and 25 rnds = 4" in St st with B Row 2: (RS) Knit.
on larger needle. Rep Rows 1 and 2 until you have 10 sts
left.
Next row: (WS) Knit. Next row: (RS)
NOTES Knit. Rep last 2 rows until tie measures
• Collar is worked in the round on a circular
needle, with slits worked into the collar
18" from end of leaf; stop working after
finishing a RS row.
for the leaf tie. The slits are made by
working back and forth over groups SECOND LEAF
of stitches—by working these groups Row 1: (WS) K1, k1f&b, knit to last 2 sts,
separately for 5 rows, the sections are not k1f&b, k1.
attached to each other, and this creates Row 2: (RS) Knit.
open slits. Rep Rows 1 and 2 until you have 20 sts;
stop working after finishing a RS row.
COLLAR Next row: (WS) K1, k2tog, knit to last 3
With A and circular needle, CO 160 sts. Place sts, k2tog, k1. Next row: (RS) Knit. Rep
marker (pm) at end of row, then join for work- last 2 rows until you have 2 sts left. BO all
ing in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. sts. Weave in ends.
Rnd 1: Knit.
Rnd 2: Purl. FINISHING
Rnd 3: With B, *k2tog, p2tog; rep from * to Fold up 1 leaf and lace tie through vertical
end of rnd—80 sts rem. slits in collar. Pull collar over your head
Rnd 4: *K1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd. and tie ends tog.
Rnd 5: Rep Row 4.
Rnds 6–11: Knit. Emily Bixler lives and knits in Portland,
Rnd 12: *K8, turn work around, p8, turn Oregon.
work around, k8, turn work around, p8, turn
Project Photos: Ken Frantz
work around, k8, break yarn, rejoin yarn
to next st on left needle; rep from * 9 more
times—you should have 10 slits across collar.
Rnds 13–18: Knit.
Rnds 19 and 20: Rep Row 4.
Rnd 21: With A, *k1, M1, p1, M1; rep from *
to end of rnd—160 sts.
Rnd 22: Purl.
Rnd 23: Knit.
BO all sts pwise. Weave in ends.
LEAF TIE
With A and straight needles, CO 2 sts.
Row 1: (RS) Knit.
Row 2: (WS) [K1f&b] 2 times—4 sts.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: K1, [k1f&b] 2 times, k1—6 sts.
Row 5: Knit.
10/16/09 2:35:45 PM
10162009143818
 Sftqfdu!the!
tqjoemf
Spin Infinite Yarns with
One Amazing Tool
Abby Franquemont

Portable and productive, the hand spindle has been responsible for creating
the world’s yarn for millennia. In Respect the Spindle, veteran spinner and
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create incredible yarn with this amazing, yet simple tool.

The perfect how-to book for any spinner with a growing collection of
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■ Spindle spinning techniques from the basics, such as getting started on

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make specific kinds of yarn faster than imagined, all with step-by-step
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including spinner profiles from those involved in the craft.

■ How to create five simple projects, perfect to practice creating a variety of

yarns and patterns.

And more! $22.95

ISBN: 978-1-59668-155-2
Available at your local yarn shop November 2009

KA_025_IWP Bks AD.indd 25 10/16/09 2:39:50 PM

10162009143951
 symbols
Making Sense of
Many beginning knitters pale at the sight of a knitting pattern,
temporarily paralyzed by the seemingly complicated abbreviations and
symbols (k2tog, ssk, brackets, parentheses, asterisks, . . .).
But most knitters quickly realize that
pattern language is actually quite simple; rather
than an unbreakable code, it is truly a useful
shorthand. Curiously, however, many knitters
never make the jump to following charted pat-
terns, failing to understand how logical and,
yes, easy to follow, they really are.
Charts have several advantages over row-by-
row knitting instructions written out in words:
They let you see at a glance what’s to be done
and what the pattern will look like knitted; they
help you recognize how the stitches relate to one
another; and they take up less space than writ-
ten instructions. These days, more and more
patterns are being charted instead of written
out row by row, and that means it is more im-
portant than ever to learn how to read them.
Once you add this skill to your repertoire, your
choices as a knitter expand nicely.
The Anatomy of a Chart
Charts are a visual representation of a knit-
ted fabric viewed from the right side. Charts are
plotted on graph paper so that one square repre-
sents one stitch and one horizontal row repre-
sents one row of knitting. The symbols or colors
in the squares indicate how to work each stitch.
For colorwork charts, the colors represent yarn
colors; for texture work, the symbols represent
stitch manipulations. Unless otherwise speci-
fied, charts are read from the bottom to the top,
right to left for right-side rows, and left to right
for wrong-side rows. When knitting in the round
(where the right side of the knitting is always
facing out), all rows are read from right to left.
Most charts, including the ones in Inter-
weave Knits, are plotted on a square grid. Be-
cause knitted stitches tend to be wider than
they are tall, motifs worked from such charts
26 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_026-027_RdChrts.indd 26
A Guide to Reading Charts
A N N B U D D
will appear squatter in the actual knitting than
they appear on the grid. To avoid this discrep-
ancy when designing your own project, you can
use proportional knitter’s graph paper (available
at knitting stores).
SYMBOLS
Though not all publications use exactly the
same symbols (for example, some use a horizon-
tal dash to denote a purl stitch, others use a dot),
for the most part, the symbols represent what
the stitches look like when viewed from the right
side of the knitting. Symbols that slant to the
left represent left-slanting stitches. Symbols that
slant to the right represent right-slanting stitch-
es. Notice how the symbols in the charts at right
mimic the stitches in the knitted fabrics.
Because charts are presented as viewed from
the right side only, most symbols represent two
different maneuvers—one for right-side rows
and another for wrong-side rows. For example,
for stockinette stitch, you knit the stitches on
right-side rows and purl them on wrong-side
rows. However, charted stockinette stitch shows
only the right, or knit, side. A list of the most
common symbols and their right- and wrong-
side defi nitions is presented in the box below
the charts.
NO STITCH
Many stitch patterns, especially lace, involve
increases or decreases that cause the stitch
count to rise or fall, thereby requiring the num-
ber of boxes in a chart to vary from one row to
the next. For some patterns, these variations
are simply represented by uneven chart edges.
For other patterns, adding or subtracting boxes
at the edge of a chart may disrupt the vertical
stitch alignment. In these cases, a special sym-
10162009144037
bol for “no stitch” is used within the center of
the chart. T hese sy mbols accommodate
“missing” stitches while they maintain the verti-
cal integrity of the pattern. In Interweave Knits,
missing stitches are represented by gray shaded
boxes. When you come to a shaded box, simply
skip over it and continue to the end of the row
as if it doesn’t exist.
ROW NUMBERS
Rows are numbered along the side of most
charts, especially long or complicated ones. Row
numbers appearing along the right edge denote
right-side rows to be read from right to left. Row
numbers appearing along the left edge denote
wrong-side rows to be read from left to right.
For example, if the number 1 is on the right
edge of the chart, that and all subsequent odd-
numbered rows are right-side rows; all even-
numbered rows are worked from the wrong side
(from left to right). With few exceptions, charts
in Inter weave Knits designate Row 1 as a right-
side row. For some patterns, this necessitates a
“set-up row” be worked prior to the first row of
the chart to get the stitches in the necessary se-
quence of knits and purls.
PATTERN REPEATS
All charts show at least one pattern repeat.
If the repeat is complex, more than one repeat
is charted to help you see how the individual
motifs look adjacent to each other.
In row-by-row instructions, pattern repeats
are flanked by asterisks or square brackets. On
charts, these repeats are outlined in heavy or
colored boxes, or they’re annotated at the lower
or upper edge of the chart.
Some patterns that are worked back and
forth in rows require extra stitches to balance a
charted pattern. In row-by-row instructions,
such patterns are reported as repeating over a
multiple of a number of stitches plus extra
stitches (e.g., balanced 2×2 ribbing worked back
and forth is a multiple of 4 stitches plus 2). On
10/16/09 2:40:31 PM
 charts, these balancing stitches appear at the
right and left margins of the chart, with the re-
peat clearly marked in between. On right-side
rows, work from right to left, working the
stitches on the right edge once, then the repeat
as many times as necessary, and end by working
the stitches on the left edge once. On wrong-
side rows, work from left to right, working the
stitches on the left edge once, the repeat box as
many times as necessary, and end by working
the stitches on the right edge once.
Charts for multisized garments will most
likely have different numbers of edge stitches
for the different sizes. Read the instructions
and chart carefully and be sure to begin and end
as specified for the size you are making.
HELPFUL HINTS
• If a chart is so small or complicated that it
causes your eyes to strain, copy it onto larger
graph paper or make a photocopy enlarge-
ment. If the chart involves colorwork and you
don’t have access to a color photocopier, use
colored pencils or markers to color in the ap-
propriate boxes.
• Keep your place while working a chart by
holding a straightedge or row fi nder on the
chart and using a row counter on your knit-
ting needle. You can place the straightedge
either above or below the row you’re working
on; placing it on the row above will let you see
how the stitches relate to the previous row
(the one you just knitted). Once you’ve
worked a couple of repeats from the chart,
you may be able to look at your knitting
rather than the chart to figure out what
comes next.
• If you plan to design a sweater or other piece
around a charted design, be sure to center the
design over the center stitch of the piece.
Otherwise, you will end up with a partial re-
peat at one edge that isn’t mirrored at the
other.
Ann Budd is the former managing editor of
Interweave Knits. She knits and writes in Boulder,
Colorado.

Think of a knitting chart Comparing Charts and Swatches

as a shorthand or
cartoon representation
of the knitted fabric.
Each square represents
one stitch. The shapes
and slants of the symbols
imitate the shapes and
slants of the knitted
stitches. Notice how the stitches mimic the chart The chart symbols for cables indicate the
symbols in this simple lace pattern. direction of the cable twists.

11
11
9
9
7
7
5
5
3
3
1
1
pattern repeat pattern repeat

Common Chart Symbols and Definitions

right side: knit right side: k3tog no stitch pattern repeat
M make 1
wrong side: purl wrong side: p3tog

right side: purl right side: ssk

wrong side: knit wrong side: ssp
right side: k2tog right side: sl 2 sts individu-
wrong side: p2tog ally, k1, p2sso; wrong side:
p2tog and place st on left
needle, pass next st over this
st, return st to right needle
yarn over
Right cross: place specified
work through back number of sts onto cable
b loop of stitch needle and hold in back,
knit specified number of
sts, knit specified number
of sts from cable needle
Left cross: place specified
number of sts onto cable
needle and hold in front,
knit specified number of
sts, knit specified number
of sts from cable needle

Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 27

KA_026-027_RdChrts.indd 27 10/16/09 2:40:31 PM

10162009144037
 FORBES FOREST
by Kathy Zimmerman
YARN Rowan Extra Fine Merino DK,
distributed by Westminster Fibers
Page 32

FA N C Y
SCA RV ES
Luxuriate in the making of these scarves. Their ingenuity will
challenge you, but you’ll learn more knitting techniques with
each stitch.

28 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com

KA_028-041_FS.indd 28 10/16/09 3:25:37 PM

10162009152808
 FROTHY SCARF
by Ann Budd
YARN Lorna’s Laces Helen’s Lace
Page 33

NEVER WIMPY WIMPLE

by Priscilla Gibson-Roberts
YARN Knit Picks Shadow
Page 34

Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 29

KA_028-041_FS.indd 29 10/16/09 3:25:39 PM

10162009152809
 SHIBORI-ESQUE NECK WRAP
by Mags Kandis
YARN Classic Elite Classic One Fifty
Page 35

30 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com

KA_028-041_FS.indd 30 10/16/09 3:25:41 PM

10162009152809
 VINTAGE VELVET
by Lisa Daniels
YARN Muench Yarns Touch Me
Page 36

LARKSPUR SCARF
RUSSIAN LACE SCARF by Kara Gott
by Dixie Falls and Jane Fournier YARN Nashua Handknits Julia,
YARN JaggerSpun Zephyr Wool-Silk distributed by Westminster Fibers
Page 36 Page 38

Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 31

KA_028-041_FS.indd 31 10/16/09 3:25:43 PM

10162009152825
 Forbes Forest

19

17

15

13

11

1
FORBES FOREST

Right Zigzag Cable

Kathy Zimmerman

Skill Level Intermediate

Finished Size 8¾" wide and 61" long, after

blocking.
Yarn Rowan Extra Fine Merino DK (100%
merino; 137 yd [125 m]/50 g; DK #3
Light): #845 forest, 5 balls. Yarn distrib-
uted by Westminster Fibers.
Needles Size 6 (4 mm). Adjust needle size
if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Markers (m); cable needle (cn);
tapestry needle.
Gauge In zigzag cable panel, 21 sts = 2¾"
Front Cable

wide and 27 rows = 4" high, after blocking;

in front cable panel, 19 sts = 2¼" wide and
27 rows = 4" high, after blocking.

Stitch Guide
Popcorn: ([K1f&b] 2 times, k1) in same
st to make 5 sts, turn; p5; turn; ssk, k1,
k2tog; slip second and third sts on right
needle over the first st to dec back to 1 st.
Left Zigzag Cable

set-up row

k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS 1/1RPC: slip 1 st onto cn and, hold in back, k1, p1 from cn

popcorn 1/1LPC: slip 1 st onto cn and, hold in front, p1, k1 from cn

2/1RPC: slip 1 st onto cn and, hold in back, k2, p1 from cn

bobble
2/1LPC: slip 2 sts onto cn and, hold in front, p1, k2 from cn
pattern repeat
2/1RC: slip 1 st onto cn and, hold in back, k2, k1 from cn
marker 2/1LC: slip 2 st onto cn and, hold in front, k1, k2 from cn

32 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com

KA_028-041_FS.indd 32 10/16/09 3:25:47 PM

10162009152825

Bobble: (K1, p1, k1) into same st to make 3
sts; turn; p3; turn; sl 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1,
pass sl sts over to dec back to 1 st.
SCARF
CO 67 sts. Set-up row: (WS) K3 (edge sts,
work in garter st throughout), place marker
(pm), work center 61 sts according to set-up
row from Forbes Forest chart, pm, k3 (edge
sts, work in garter st throughout). Maintain-
ing 3-st garter edges, rep Rows 1–20 of zigzag
cables, and rep Rows 1–12 of front cable (do
not rep set-up row) until 420 patt rows have
been completed (21 reps of zigzag cables; 35
reps of front cable). BO all sts in patt.
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends. Block lightly.
Kathy Zimmerman is the owner of Kathy’s
Kreations in Ligonier, Pennsylvania. Her
favorite stitch elements are cables and
textures, and she enjoys combining the two
in her designs.
This project was excerpted from Scarf Style
(Interweave, 2004).
Projects Photos: Carol Kaplan
KA_028-041_FS.indd 33
FROTHY SCARF
Ann Budd
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size About 3½" wide and 52½" long,
after blocking.
Yarn Lorna’s Laces Helen’s Lace (50% silk,
50% wool; 1250 yd [1143 m]/4 oz; Lace-
weight): #50ns poppy, 1 skein.
Needles Size 3 (3.25 mm): two sets of 24"
circulars (cir).
Notions Markers (m; optional); tapestry
needle.
Gauge 14 sts and 22 rows = 2" in St st before
blocking. Exact gauge is not critical but will
affect overall scarf length.
Stitch Guide
Little Arrowhead Lace: (multiple of 6 sts
+ 1)
Rows 1 and 3: (WS) Purl.
Row 2: (RS) K1, *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1;
rep from *.
Row 4: K2, *yo, sl 2 kwise, k1, pass 2 slipped
sts over, yo, k3; rep from *, ending last rep k2
instead of k3.
Rep Rows 1–4 for pattern.
NOTES
• Adjust the length by adding or subtracting
stitches in groups of 6; for every 6 stitches
added or subtracted, the length will
increase or decrease by about 1".
• You may find it helpful to place markers
after every 24 stitches (4 pattern repeats)
to make it easier to both count stitches
and troubleshoot any problems.
SCARF
Tier 1: Loosely CO 337 sts. Purl 1 row, plac-
ing markers (pm) after every 24 sts if desired
(see Notes; there will be one 1 st left over);
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS
10162009152826
this counts as Row 1 of little arrowhead
lace patt. Work through Row 4 of patt,
then rep Rows 1–4 two more times—12
lace rows total. Work even in St st for 6
rows, ending with a RS row. Break yarn
and set aside. Tier 2: With the other cir
needle, loosely CO 337 sts. Work Rows 1–4
of lace patt 3 times—12 lace rows total.
Break yarn. Joining row: (RS) Place Tier
2 on top of Tier 1 so that the needles are
parallel, the right sides of both pieces are
facing you, and the needle with the Tier
2 is closer to you. Rejoin yarn to beg of
work with RS facing. With the spare tip of
one needle, knit the two tiers tog across
the row as foll: *Insert working needle tip
into first st on both cir needles, k2tog (1 st
from each needle); rep from * to end—337
sts; 2 tiers on same needle. Tier 2 will
slightly overlap Tier 1, shingle-fashion,
as shown in photograph. Work even in St
st for 6 more rows, ending with a RS row.
Break yarn and set aside. Tiers 3 and 4:
Work as for Tier 2, placing each tier on top
of the previous one for the joining row.
Tier 5: Work as for Tier 2 until the joining
row has been completed; do not work any
rows of St st after the joining row—337
sts; 5 tiers on same needle. With WS fac-
ing, BO all sts as foll: *BO 3 sts—1 st on
right needle tip. Turn work around and use
the knitted method to CO 2 more sts onto
needle holding the single st, turn work
again, and pass the second and third sts on
right needle over the fi rst st; rep from * to
end of row. Fasten off rem st.
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends. Block to
measurements.
Ann Budd is the author of The Knitter's
Handy Book series and co-author of many
of the Style series books from Interweave.
Her latest book is Knitted Gifts: Irresistible
Projects to Make and Give (Interweave,
2009).
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
33
10/16/09 3:25:48 PM

NEVER WIMPY
WIMPLE
Priscilla Gibson-Roberts
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size About 20" circumference at
upper edge and 13½" total length mea-
sured at deepest point of lower edging.
Yarn Knit Picks Shadow (100% merino
wool; 440 yd [402 m]/50 g; Laceweight):
#23657 vineyard heather, 2 skeins.
Needles Size 2 (2.75 mm): 16" circular.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain
the correct gauge.
Notions Smooth waste yarn for invis-
ible cast-on; stitch marker (m); tapestry
needle.
Gauge 36 stitches and 44 rounds = 4" in
st st worked in the round.
WIMPLE
Lower edging is worked back and forth
in rows. With waste yarn and using the
provisional method (see Glossary), CO
15 sts.
Row 1: (RS) K9, [yo, k2tog] 2 times, yo,
k2—16 sts.
Row 2: (WS) Use the backward-loop
method (see Glossary) to CO 2 sts, BO the
2 sts just CO to form a short “fringe,” knit
to end.
Row 3: K10, [yo, k2tog] 2 times, yo,
34 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_028-041_FS.indd 34
k2—17 sts.
Row 4: CO 3 sts as before, BO these 3 sts,
knit to end.
Row 5: K11, [yo, k2tog] 2 times, yo, k2—18
sts.
Row 6: CO 4 sts as before, BO these 4 sts,
knit to end.
Row 7: K12, [yo, k2tog] 2 times, yo, k2—19
sts.
Row 8: CO 5 sts as before, BO these 5 sts,
knit to end.
Row 9: K13, [yo, k2tog] 2 times, yo, k2—20
sts.
Row 10: CO 6 sts as before, BO these 6 sts,
knit to end.
Row 11: K11, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2tog,
k1—19 sts rem.
Row 12: Rep Row 8.
Row 13: K10, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2tog,
k1—18 sts rem.
Row 14: Rep Row 6.
Row 15: K9, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2tog,
k1—17 sts rem.
Row 16: Rep Row 4.
Row 17: K8, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2tog,
k1—16 sts rem.
Row 18: Rep Row 2.
Row 19: K7, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2tog,
k1—15 sts rem.
Row 20: K15.
Rep these 20 rows 23 more times—24 patt
reps total; 480 rows total; piece measures
about 30" from CO. Carefully remove waste
yarn from invisible CO and place 15 live sts
on needle. Holding ends of edging with RS
facing tog, use the three-needle method (see
Glossary) to bind off the CO and BO ends tog
10162009152826
to form a ring.
CENTER SECTION
With RS of edging facing, beg at seam, and
working along the straight edge of the ring, pick
up and knit 1 st from the “valley” between each
garter ridge—240 sts. Place marker (pm), and
join for working in the rnd.
Rnd 1: Purl.
Rnd 2: *K14, k2tog; rep from *—225 sts rem.
Rnds 3 and 5: Purl.
Rnd 4: *K13, k2tog; rep from *—210 sts rem.
Rnd 6: *K12, k2tog; rep from *—195 sts rem.
Rnds 7–18: Knit.
Rnd 19: *K11, k2tog; rep from *—180 sts rem.
Cont even in St st (knit every rnd) until St st
section measures 9¼" above last garter ridge
(Rnd 5), or until piece measures about 12¼"
from deepest point of lower edging.
TOP EDGING
Rnd 1: Purl.
Rnd 2: Knit.
Rnds 3–6: Rep Rnds 1 and 2 two more
times.
Rnds 7 and 8: Knit.
Rnds 9 and 11: *K7, k2tog, yo, k3; rep
from *.
Rnds 10 and 12: *K6, k2tog, yo, k1, yo,
k2tog, k1; rep from *.
Rnds 13 and 14: Knit.
Rnds 15–20: Rep Rnds 1–6.
BO all sts loosely.
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends. Lightly steam-block to
open up the lower and top edgings; the wider
bottom end of the wimple will flare out at the
base.
Priscilla Gibson-Roberts is passionate about
traditional knitting and spinning techniques
and has written a number of books on the
topic, including Knitting in the Old Way,
Ethnic Socks & Stockings, and Simple Socks:
Plain and Fancy.
This project was excerpted from Lace Style
(Interweave, 2007).
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan
10/16/09 3:25:50 PM
 yarn, leaving a 12" tail. Make 7 more crochet SLIT
rings in the same manner. On RS of scarf, Using water-soluble fabric marker, draw
count up 80 rows from CO edge at the A end a line to indicate the position of a 3½" slit
of the scarf and draw a line across the scarf centered on the B end of the scarf, beg
with water-soluble fabric marker to mark about 4½" down from BO edge. Carefully
embroidery area. Using tails, sew crocheted cut slit open along marked line. The felted
rings randomly to RS of scarf between CO fabric will not ravel and the edges of the
edge and marker line as shown in photo- slit will need no additional reinforcement.
graph. With A threaded on a tapestry needle,
sew a line of basting sts around the open cen- Mags Kandis's love of travel, color, culture,
SHIBORI-ESQUE ter of each crochet ring as close as possible to texture, and discovery fuels her unique and
identifiable knit designs.
NECK WRAP inside edge of the ring. With RS still facing,
draw up ends of basting thread tightly to
This project was excerpted from Scarf Style
Mags Kandis form a “bubble” of fabric in the center of each
(Interweave, 2004).
ring. Tie ends of basting thread securely so
Skill Level Easy bubbles will maintain their shape throughout Project Photos: Carol Kaplan
the felting process.
Finished Size About 5¼" wide and 38" long.
Note: Your exact fi nished size may be differ- FELTING
ent because of individual variations in the Place scarf in lingerie bag. Add a small
felting process—that’s part of the allure. amount of mild detergent and run through
FELTING
Yarn Classic Elite Classic One Fifty (100% normal washing-machine cycle set for a small RESOURCES
merino; 150 yd [137 m]/50 g; DK #3 Light): load and hot water, stopping the washer pe-
BOOKS:
#7232 orchid (purple; A) 2 balls; #7251 lilac riodically to check felting progress. Note: It
(light purple; B) and #7281 sprout (green; C), may take more than one cycle to achieve the Felt Frenzy
26 Projects for All Forms
1 ball each. desired amount of felting. When piece is suf- of Felting
Needles Size 10 (6 mm). Adjust needle size ficiently felted and the individual stitches are Felt Forward
if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. no longer visible, remove scarf from washer, Modern Designs in
Notions Tapestry needle; markers (m); dress- pull into shape, and allow to dry fl at. Knitted Felt
maker’s water-soluble fabric marker (avail- Shibori Knitted Felt
able at fabric stores) in contrasting color(s) to 20 Plus Designs to Knit,
Bead, and Felt
A and B; scissors; size J/10 (6 mm) crochet
hook; mesh lingerie bag for felting. How We Felt
Designs and Techniques
Gauge 14 sts and 22 rows = 4" in reverse from Contemporary
stockinette stitch (rev St st), before felting. Felt Artists
Felted Knits
SCARF The Art of Shrinking
Before beginning to knit, wind off about 3 yd Your Knitting
of A and set aside to use later for embroidery. Hand Felted Jewelry
and Beads
With A, CO 42 sts. Work even in rev St st
25 Artful Designs
(purl RS rows; knit WS rows) until both balls
Simply Felt
of A have been used up (about 200 rows). 20 Easy and Elegant
Change to B and work even in rev St st until Designs in Wool
only about 48" of B is left (about 100 rows)—
MAGAZINES:
piece measures about 54" from CO, but exact
Interweave Felt 2007
length is not critical. BO all sts. Electronic Version
Interweave Felt 2008
FINISHING Electronic Version
Weave in loose ends.
VIDEO DOWNLOAD:
Fun with Machine Needle
CROCHET RINGS (MAKE 8)
Felting
With C and crochet hook, ch 30 (see Glos-
sary). Join with a slip st to form ring. Cut All are available at
interweavestore.com

Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 35

KA_028-041_FS.indd 35 10/16/09 3:25:54 PM

10162009152826

VINTAGE VELVET
Lisa Daniels
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size 5" wide and 68" long, after
washing and felting.
Yarn Muench Yarns Touch Me (72% rayon
microfiber, 28% wool; 61 yd [56 m]/
50 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #3618 toast,
5 skeins.
Needles Size 8 (5 mm). Adjust needle size
if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Cable needle (cn); markers (m);
tapestry needle.
Gauge 26 sts and 22 rows = 4" in revers-
ible cable patt before washing and felting;
scarf measures about 5¼" wide and 68"
long before finishing.
NOTE
• Ththee two
cable crossings alternate between
sides of the scarf.
SCARF
CO 34 sts. Work in patt as foll:
Row 1: K1, [p2, k2] 2 times, p2, place
marker (pm), [k1, p1] 6 times, pm, [p2, k2]
2 times, p2, k1.
Row 2: K1, p1, [k2, p2] 2 times, k1, slip
marker (sl m), [k1, p1] 6 times, sl m, k1,
[p2, k2] 2 times, p1, k1.
Rows 3 and 4: Rep Rows 1 and 2.
Row 5: K1, [p2, k2] 2 times, p2, sl 6 sts
onto cn and hold in back, [k1, p1] 3 times,
work 6 sts from cn as [k1, p1] 3 times, [p2,
k2] 2 times, p2, k1.
Row 6: Rep Row 2.
Rows 7–14: Rep Rows 1 and 2 four times.
Row 15: Rep Row 1.
Row 16: K1, p1, [k2, p2] 2 times, k1, sl
6 sts onto cn and hold in back, [k1, p1]
3 times, work 6 sts from cn as [k1, p1] 3
times, k1, [p2, k2] 2 times, p1, k1.
Rows 17–22: Rep Rows 1 and 2 three times.
36 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_028-041_FS.indd 36
Rep Rows 1–22 until almost all the yarn has
been used, ending with Row 9 or Row 20 (4
rows past the last cable crossing row), and
leaving a tail at least 4 times the width of the
scarf for binding off. BO all sts in patt.
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends. Felting: Place scarf in
a lingerie bag, or other washing bag, then
place in the washing machine with some old
T-shirts or an old sheet. To felt a larger piece
(bigger than the scarf shown here), place it
directly in the washing machine with similar
items without the washing bag. The goal is to
have a large enough load that the machine will
balance properly while avoiding clothes that
could transfer color or lint to your finished
item. Set the machine for a hot wash, add
10162009152827
a small amount of mild detergent, and run
through a full cycle. Place scarf in the dryer
and dry until it is still damp to the touch. Lay
flat and pat into shape to finish drying.
Lisa Daniels lives and knits in Lafayette,
California.
This project was excerpted from Scarf Style
(Interweave, 2004).
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan
RUSSIAN
LACE SCARF
Di x ie Fa l ls and Jane Four nier
Skill Level Experienced
Finished Size 66" long and 12" wide. Make it
longer or shorter by increasing or decreasing
the number of snowfl ake motifs.
Yarn JaggerSpun Zephyr Wool-Silk 2/18
(630 yd [576 m]/2 oz; DK #3 Light); light
gray, 1 skein.
Needles Size 2 (2.75 mm).
Notions Stitch markers (m), one each of
two different colors; stitch holder; tapestry
needle; rustproof pins.
NOTE
• That eoneworkendstarts by knitting the border
of the scarf. You then pick up
the stitches along the edge of the border
and knit the side borders and snowfl ake
pattern that make up the body of the scarf
at the same time. When the scarf is long
enough, you’ll knit the border for the far
end and graft it to the body of the scarf.
SCARF
CO 10 sts loosely. Following the directions
for the end border pattern, work 12 com-
10/16/09 3:25:55 PM
 plete patterns, fi nishing with row 1. Bind off
loosely but do not break the yarn. Don’t be
alarmed if the edging does not look as lacy at
this stage; it will look much lacier after you’ve
washed and blocked it. You can gauge its final
appearance by stretching a small portion
of the knitting between the fingers of both
hands.
Pick up and knit 1 st in each of the 73 loops
formed along the straight edge of the begin-
ning border (73 sts).
Divide the border and snowfl ake sts as
follows: K8, place marker, k15, k2tog, k23,
k2tog, k15, place marker, k8 (71 sts).
Row 1: Work row 1 of the right border pat-
tern, slip marker, work row 1 of the snow-
fl ake pattern, slip marker, work row 1 of the
left border pattern.
Row 2: Work row 2 of the left border pattern,
slip marker, work row 2 of the snowfl ake
pattern, slip marker, work row 2 of the right Row 11: Yo, k2tog, k2, (k2tog, yo) twice, Row 2 and all even-numbered rows:
border pattern. k2tog, k1. Knit.
Continue working the right border, snow- Row 12: Knit. Row 3: K2, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2tog.
fl ake, and left border patterns across the Rep rows 1 to 12. Row 5: K2, yo, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, k2tog.
rows, following the row repeat instructions Row 7: K2, yo, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, k2tog.
for each pattern, until there are 12 snow- RIGHT BORDER PATTERN Row 9: K1, (k2tog, yo) twice, k2tog, k3,
fl ake motifs in the center panel or the scarf Row 1: K2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, k2tog. yo, k2tog.
is the length you prefer with a multiple of
3 snowfl ake motifs. End with row 1 of the
snowfl ake pattern and row 13 of the right
and left border patterns.
Last row: K9, remove marker, k55, remove
marker, k9 (73 sts). Leave the stitches on a
spare needle or stitch holder and set the scarf
aside.
CO 10 sts loosely. Following the directions
LACE KNITTING HINTS
for the end border pattern, work 12 complete Photocopy the pattern onto single sheets of paper. Affi x them to a magnetic
patterns, finishing with row 1. BO loosely. board with a line fi nder to help you keep your place. Leave your original pattern at
Pick up the loops along the straight edge of home and take a copy when you travel with your knitting.
the end border and place them on a knitting
needle. Using the wool or tapestry needle
•
Use stitch markers to separate different patterns or pattern repeats.
threaded with yarn, graft the border loops
with the scarf stitches on the spare needle.
•
Use different colors for the first and last stitch markers on the row. One of the
colors falling at the beginning of the row will indicate a right-side or pattern row;
END BORDER PATTERN: the other color at the beginning of the row will indicate a
Row 1: Yo, k2tog, kl, (k2tog, yo) twice, wrong-side row.
k2tog, kl.
Row 2 and all even-numbered rows: Knit.
•
If you make an error and have to rip out some of the knitting, you’ll fi nd it
Row 3: Yo, k2tog, k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. easier to pick up the stitches if you rip back to the fi rst knit row beyond the error
Row 5: Yo, k2tog, k4, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. and use a needle one size smaller than you’re knitting with. Put the smaller
Row 7: Yo, k2tog, k5, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. needle aside as soon as you have worked the stitches from it.
Row 9: Yo, k2tog, k3, (k2tog, yo) twice,
k2tog, k1.

Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 37

KA_028-041_FS.indd 37 10/16/09 3:25:58 PM

10162009152827
 Row 11: K1, (k2tog, yo) twice, k2tog, k2,
yo, k2tog.
Row 13: K1, (k2tog, yo) twice, k2tog, k1,
yo, k2tog.
Row 14: Knit.
Rep rows 3 to 14.
LEFT BORDER PATTERN
Row 1: Ssk, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2.
Row 2 and all even-numbered rows:
Knit.
Row 3: Ssk, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k2.
Row 5: Ssk, yo, k4, yo, k2tog, yo, k2.
Row 7: Ssk, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, yo, k2.
Row 9: Ssk, yo, k3, (k2tog, yo) twice,
k2tog, k1.
Row 11: Ssk, yo, k2, (k2tog, yo) twice,
k2tog, k1.
Row 13: Ssk, yo, k1, (k2tog, yo) twice,
k2tog, k1.
Row 14: Knit.
Rep rows 3 to 14.
SNOWFLAKE PATTERN
Row 1: K2, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 5
times, k11, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 5
times, k2.
Row 2 and all even-numbered rows:
Knit, working k1, p1, into each yo twice
wherever there is a yo twice in the prev
row.
Row 3: K25, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k25.
Row 5: (K2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 5 times,
k4, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, yo
twice, k2tog) 5 times.
Row 7: K26, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo, k26.
Row 9: K2, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog)
4 times, k5, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo, k5,
(k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 4 times, k2.
Row 11: K24, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k24.
Row 13: (K2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 4
times, k5, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, k1,
ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k5, (k2tog, yo twice,
k2tog) 4 times.
Row 15: K22, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, sl1,
k2tog, psso, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k22.
Row 17: K2, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 3
times, k5, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, k5,
ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k5, (k2tog, yo twice,
k2tog) 3 times, k2.
Row 19: K20, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog,
k3, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k20.
Row 21: (K2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 3
38 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_028-041_FS.indd 38
times, k5, (yo, k2tog, k2) twice, yo, k2tog,
k1, (ssk, yo, k2) twice, ssk, yo, k5, (k2tog, yo
twice, k2tog) 3 times.
Row 23: K18, (yo, k2tog, k2) twice, yo, sl1,
k2tog, psso, (yo, k2, ssk) twice, yo, k18.
Row 25: K2, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) twice,
k9, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo, k2,
ssk, yo, k9, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) twice,
k2.
Row 27: K13, ssk, yo, k1, (yo, k2tog, k2)
twice, yo, k2tog, k3, (ssk, yo, k2) twice, ssk,
yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k13.
Row 29: (K2tog, yo twice, k2tog) twice, k4,
ssk, yo, k3, (yo, k2tog, k2) twice, yo, k2tog,
k1, (ssk, yo, k2) twice, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k2tog,
k4, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) twice.
Row 31: K14, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, (yo, k2,
ssk) twice, yo, k5, (yo, k2tog, k2) twice, yo,
sl1, k2tog, psso, yo, k14.
Row 33: K2, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) twice,
k8, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, k2, yo,
k2tog, k8, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) twice, k2.
Row 35: K17, (ssk, yo, k2) twice, ssk, yo, k1,
(yo, k2tog, k2) twice, yo, k2tog, k17.
Row 37: (K2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 3 times,
k4, (ssk, yo, k2) twice, ssk, yo, k3, (yo, k2tog,
k2) twice, yo, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, yo twice,
k2tog) 3 times.
Row 39: K19, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k5, yo,
k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, k19.
Row 41: K2, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 3
times, k4, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k7, yo, k2tog,
k2, yo, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 3
times, k2.
Row 43: K21, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k1, yo,
k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, k21.
Row 45: (K2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 4 times,
k4, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo,
k2tog, k4, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 4 times.
Row 47: K23, ssk, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k23.
Row 49: K2, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 4
times, k4, ssk, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, k4, (k2tog,
yo twice, k2tog) 4 times, k2.
Row 51: K25, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k25.
Row 53: (K2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 5 times,
k4, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, yo
twice, k2tog) 5 times.
Row 55: K26, yo, sll, k2tog, psso, yo, k26.
Row 56: Knit.
Rep rows 1 to 56.
FINISHING AND BLOCKING
Weave in loose ends. Wash the scarf in
10162009152827
warm water and mild detergent, rinsing it
well. Do not scrub or wring the scarf while it
is wet. Roll the wet scarf in a towel to absorb
the excess water. Lay the damp scarf on an
ironing board or on thick bath towels spread
on the carpet. Stretch the scarf to its fi nal
size and pin it in place through each point
of the zigzag edge of the border. Leave the
scarf pinned in place until it is completely
dry, then remove the pins.
Dixie Falls knits and crochets in Turner,
Oregon. Jane Fournier spins and knits in
Helena, Montana.
Project Photos: Joe Coca
LARKSPUR
SCARF
Kara Gott
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size 5" wide and 41" long, after
blocking.
Yarn Nashua Handknits Julia (50% wool,
25% kid mohair, 25% alpaca; 93 yd [84 m]/
50 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #4936 blue
thyme, 3 skeins. Yarn distributed by West-
minster Fibers.
Needles Size 5 (3.75 mm): set of 2 double-
pointed (dpn) and straight. Adjust needle size
if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Stitch holder; cable needle (cn);
tapestry needle.
Gauge 5½ sts and 7 rows = 1" in St st.
SCARF
Beginning I-cord loops: *With dpn, CO 3
sts. Work a 3" I-cord (see Glossary). Do not
BO. Pick up and knit 1 st in the middle of the
10/16/09 3:25:58 PM

l
2009special issue magazines
Interweave Knits
Holiday Gifts
Interweave Knits Holiday Gifts is
a special supersized seasonal
issue presented by Interweave
Knits. Gifts includes plenty of
tips, tricks, and “knitspiration”
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making Knits Gifts a magazine
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All special issues are available at your local yarn shop,
on newsstands, or at InterweaveStore.com.
KA_039_IWP SIP AD.indd 39
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For the spirited knitter, this
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These favorite projects are
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4FQUFNCFS

10/20/09 1:12:21 PM
 CO edge—4 sts on needle; first loop cre-
ated. Break yarn and slip these 4 sts onto
a straight needle. Note: Be sure to slide
all loops onto straight needle facing in the
same direction. Rep from * until there are
8 loops and 32 sts on straight needle.
Scarf body: With loops on straight needle
and WS facing, purl 1 row. Next row: (RS)
Work Row 1 of Zigzag chart. Work Rows 1–20
of chart a total of 13 times. Ending I-cord
loops: Place all but last 3 sts on holder. Slip
rem 3 sts to dpn. *Work a 3" I-cord over 3 sts.
At end of last row, knit 1 st from holder—
4 sts on needle. With left-hand needle, pass
second st from needle tip over the fi rst.
Cont to BO in this manner until 1 st rem
on needle. Knit next st from holder and slip
second st on needle over fi rst. Knit next 2
sts from holder—3 sts on needle. Rep from *
until there are 8 loops. Break yarn and draw
tail through last st to BO.

FINISHING
Zigzag
With WS facing, place a cloth over pieces and
carefully block with a steam iron. Pin down
19 edges and leave to dry overnight. With yarn
17 threaded on a tapestry needle, weave in loose
ends.
15

13
Kara Gott is a knitwear designer and
freelance illustrator living and knitting in St.
11 Petersburg, Florida.

9
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan
7

1
MORE TIPS
in the rnd: knit every rnd & TECHNIQUES ON
in rows: k on RS; p on WS
KNITTING DAILY TV
pattern repeat
Join editor Eunny Jang on Knit-
2/1 RC: sl 1 st onto cn and hold in back, k2, k1 from cn ting Daily TV and learn innovative
knitting techniques, meet trendset-
2/1 LC: sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in front, k1, k2 from cn
ting designers, and knit along with
stylish projects ranging from simple
socks to complicated cables. Plus, see
the latest yarns on the market and
even learn some basic spinning, cro-
chet, and needlefelting techniques.
Knitting Daily TV is all about fiber!
Check your local public television
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40 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com

KA_028-041_FS.indd 040 10/16/09 3:25:58 PM

10162009152912
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10162009153028
 WRAPS
Cocoon yourself in a wrap when you need something a bit
warmer than a scarf but are not ready to don a coat.

ORENBURG LACE TRIANGLE

by Galina Khmeleva
YARN Regia Silk 4-ply, distributed
by Westminster Fibers
Page 50

RUFFLED CAPELET WITH SLEEVES

by Pam Allen
YARN Bergère de France Toison
Page 52

42 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com

KA_042-059_W.indd 42 10/16/09 3:30:55 PM

10162009153229
 LACE PONCHO
by Susan Sternlieb
YARN Classic Elite Kumara
Page 55

SCARF 1 SCARF
by XXxx
SUMMER SHAWLETTE
by Sandi
YARN Wiseheart
xxxxxx
YARN Jade Sapphire Mongolian Cashmere 4-Ply
Page 53

MINI PONCHO
by Meema Spadola CHUNKY LACE WRAP
YARN Knit Picks Andean Silk and Elegance, by Lisa Shroyer
distributed by Crafts Americana YARN Knit One, Crochet Too Fleece
Page 56 Page 56

Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 43

KA_042-059_W.indd 43 10/16/09 3:30:58 PM

10162009153229
 STAR RIB MESH PONCHO
by Mary Jane Mucklestone
YARN Karabella Yarns Magrite
Page 57 STOCKINETTE AND SEED PONCHO
by Cyrene Slegona
YARN Brown Sheep Lamb’s Pride Superwash Bulky
Page 58

LITTLE ARROWHEAD SHAWL

by Pam Allen
YARN Halcyon Yarn Gemstone Silk 2/5 ARROWHEAD STOLE
Page 58 by Mary Jane Mucklestone
YARN Fleece Artist Blue Face Leicester 2-Ply
Page 57

44 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com

KA_042-059_W.indd 44 10/16/09 3:31:00 PM

10162009153229
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Xjui!zpvs!nfncfstijq!up!uif!LojuujohEbjmz/dpn!zpvÖmm!sfdfjwf;!
s Free ebjmz!f.ofxtmfuufst!!!!!s Free!qbuufsot!!!
s Free!ujqt!boe!ufdiojrvf!uvupsjbmt!!!!!s Free!bmfsut!bu!JoufsxfbwfTupsf/dpn
s Free!bddftt!up!gpsvnt!boe!cmpht

KA_045_IWP Web AD.indd 45 10/16/09 3:31:58 PM

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The ordinary can become
the extraordinary when
embellishments, edgings,
and trims are added to
an accessory. Here are
some simple and basic
finishing details that you
will use time and time
again.
Finishing
Details
Embroidery
Backstitch Blanket Stitch
*Insert threaded needle at the right side of a Working from left to right, bring threaded
stitch, then back out at the left side of a stitch needle in and out of the knitted background,
two stitches away. Insert needle again between always keeping the needle on top of the work-
the first two stitches and bring it out two ing yarn.
stitches away. Repeat from * as desired.

Above photo: Fringe is knitted

I-cord (see Glossary).
Photo: Carol Kaplan

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Chain Stitch
Bring threaded needle out from back to
front at center of a knitted stitch. Form a
short loop and insert needle back where it
came out. Keeping the loop under the nee-
dle, bring needle back out in center of next
stitch to the right.
Duplicate Stitch
Horizontal: Bring threaded needle out
from back to front at the base of the V of
the knitted stitch you want to cover.
*Working right to left, pass needle in and
out under the stitch in the row above it
and back into the base of the same stitch.
Bring needle back out at the base of the V
of the next stitch to the left. Repeat from
* for desired number of stitches.
Vertical: Beginning at lowest point, work
as for horizontal duplicate stitch, ending
by bringing the needle back out at the base
of the stitch directly above the stitch just
worked.
ded
nd,
rk-
KA_046-049_FinDet.indd 47
Crochet Chain Stitch Embroidery
Holding the yarn under the background,
insert crochet hook through the center of
a knitted stitch, pull up a loop, *insert
hook into the center of the next stitch to
the right, pull up a second loop through
the first loop on the hook. Repeat from *.
French Knot
Bring threaded needle out of knitted
background from back to front, wrap
yarn around needle one to three times,
and use your thumb to hold the wraps
in place while you insert needle into
background a short distance from where
it came out. Pull the needle through the
wraps into the background.
10192009121209
Emb
Edgings Back
Blan
Fringe (Applied Fringe) Chai
Croc
Cut several strands of yarn (the more strands, Dup
the thicker the fringe) two times the desired Fren
fringe length, plus about 1" for knotting. Fold
the yarn in half. Insert a crochet hook into the
knitted piece from back to front, catch the Edgi
than
folded yarn, and pull it through the knitting.
Draw the yarn ends through the loop and pull Twis
to tighten. Trim ends to even lengths.
Emb
Bloc
Two-Color Plaited Tie
Knot four strands (two light, two dark, and
each 1½ times the desired fi nished length) in
an overhand knot at one end. Hook or pin this
end to secure it. Position the strands so that
the light strands are on the outside and the
dark ones on the inside. Working from the
outside, take the left strand over its nearest
center strand, and the right strand over its
nearest center strand as well as the strand just
placed in the center. Continue placing the
strands in the center, alternating sides so that
like-colored strands form a V shape.
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 47
10/19/09 12:11:41 PM
 Twisted Fringe (Twisted Cord)
Cut several lengths of yarn about five times
the desired finished cord length. Fold the
strands in half to form two equal groups.
Anchor the strands at the fold by looping
them over a doorknob. Holding one group in
each hand, twist each group tightly in a
clockwise direction until they begin to kink
(Figure 1). Put both groups in one hand, then
release them, allowing them to twist around
each other counterclockwise. Smooth out the
twists so that they are uniform along the
length of the cord. Knot the ends (Figure 2).
Tassel
To make a tassel, cut a piece of cardboard 3–5" wide and 1" longer than the desired length
of your tassel. Beginning and ending at the same bottom edge, securely wrap yarn around
cardboard (Figure 3), but not too tight, until you reach the desired fullness of the tassel.
(Tip: If you have to make more than one tassel per piece, count the number of wraps so your
tassels will be consistent.) Cut a length of yarn at least 12" long and thread through a tap-
estry needle. Slip needle underneath wrapped yarn at upper edge, pull together tightly, and
fasten with a knot. Leave the yarn tail to sew tassel to work. Cut through yarn at lower edge.
Take a second length of yarn and wrap it securely around the tassel several times just below
the top-edge knot (Figure 4). Knot securely, thread ends onto tapestry needle, and pull to
center of tassel. Trim ends even at bottom edge.

Figure 3

Figure 4
Figure 1 Figure 2

Pom-Pom
Cut two circles of cardboard, each ½" larger
than desired finished pom-pom width. Cut a
small circle out of the center and a small
wedge out of the side of each circle (Figure 5).
Tie a strand of yarn between the circles, hold
circles together and wrap with yarn—the
more wraps, the thicker the pom-pom. Cut Figure 5
between the circles and knot the tie strand Figure 6
tightly (Figure 6). Place pom-pom between
two smaller cardboard circles held together
with a needle and trim the edges (Figure 7).

Figure 7

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10192009121209
 Blocking
Wet-Blocking
By definition wet-blocking uses more moisture than steam-blocking and can be used to stretch
and enlarge a knitted piece (although loosely knitted pieces stretch more easily than tightly
knitted ones, and any extra inches you gain in width, you may lose in length). There are three
degrees of wet-blocking, depending on the amount of moisture added to the knitted fabric.

Spray-Blocking
Spray-blocking is the mildest form of wet-blocking. It works equally well for all fibers—although BLOCKING
silks and synthetics require more wetness than wool—and it allows for total control over tem-
perature, dampness, and finished texture because you are not restricted to the temperature and TIPS
amount of steam that comes out of your iron, and you can gently pat and shape the piece with • Experiment with blocking your
your hands while you work. Pin the handknit to shape right side up on a padded surface placed gauge swatch before you block
away from direct sun or heat. Fill a spray bottle with cool tap water and spritz a fine, even mist an actual knitted piece.
over the piece. Use your hands to gently pat the moisture into the handknit, if desired, but be
• Do not rub, twist, or wring a
careful not to flatten any textured stitches.
handknit. Doing so may distort
the stitches beyond correction.
• Before blocking, weave in
all loose ends—the blocking
process will help secure the
ends in place.
• It is preferable to block indi-
vidual pieces before sewing
them together. Blocking makes
the sewing process easier, and
the results of blocking are more
consistent when you work with
a single layer of fabric. You can
block a garment that has been
sewed together, but the results
Wet-Wrapping may not be as good.
Wet-wrapping imparts moisture deeper into the fibers and is appropriate for all types of yarn, • Many experts warn against
especially cotton and acrylic, which are less resilient than wool and require more moisture blocking ribbing, which will lose
penetration to reshape stitches. To wet-wrap, thoroughly soak a large bath towel in water, then its natural elasticity if blocked
put it through the spin cycle of a washing machine to remove excess moisture. Place the hand- while stretched open. How-
knit on top of the towel, then roll the two together jelly-roll fashion. Let the bundle sit until ever, ribbing can be successfully
the handknit is completely damp, overnight if necessary. Unroll the towel, remove the hand- blocked if you squeeze it into its
knit, and pin it out to measurements on a padded surface away from direct sun or heat. most contracted state (so that all
the purl stitches recede behind
Immersion the knit stitches) before you
Immersion imparts moisture thoroughly through the fibers and allows complete reshaping. It apply moisture.
is appropriate for all fiber types and particularly ideal for heavily ribbed or cabled fabrics or
• Allow the blocked handknit to air-
fabrics that have taken on a biased slant during knitting. It is also the method to use after
dry completely before moving it.
washing a handknit. To immerse a handknit, turn it inside out and soak it in a basin of luke-
warm water for about twenty minutes or until thoroughly wet, gently squeezing water through
the piece if necessary. Drain the water, carry the wet handknit in a bundle to the washing
machine, and put it through the spin cycle (or roll it in dry towels) to remove excess moisture.
Do not twist or wring the handknit. Shape the piece right side up on a padded surface, using
pins (and blocking wires) as necessary.

Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 49

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ORENBURG LACE
TRIANGLE
Galina Khmeleva
Skill Level Advanced
Finished Size About 42" along each short
side and 57" along the long side, blocked.
Yarn Regia Silk 4-ply (55% wool, 25%
nylon, 20% silk; 218 yd [199 m]/50 g;
Fingering #1 Super Fine); #00002 natural
meliert, 2 skeins. Yarn distributed by
Westminster Fibers.
Needles Size 0 (2 mm): straight. Adjust
needle size if necessary to obtain the
correct gauge.
Notions Marker (m); stitch holder; T-pins;
about 4 yd (4 m) thick nylon cord for
blocking.
Gauge 24 sts and 48 rows = 4" in garter
st, blocked.
NOTES
• Slip the fi rst st of every row purlwise
with yarn in front.
do not work last st—2 sts on left needle.
Row 5: Sl 1 pwise, [k2, yo] 2 times, k2tog, yo,
k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k2, k1 and place this st
back on left needle—1 st on left needle.
Row 7: Sl 1 pwise, k2, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k3,
yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1 and place this st
back on left needle, do not work last st—2 sts
on left needle.
Row 9: Sl 1 pwise, k3, yo, k2tog, k1, yo,
k3tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, k1 and place this
st back on left needle, do not work last st—2
sts on left needle.
Rows 10, 12, and 14: Knit to last 2 sts,
k2tog.
Row 11: Sl 1 pwise, k3, yo, k2tog, k3, k2tog,
yo, k4, k1 and place this st back on left
needle—1 st on left needle.
Row 13: Sl 1 pwise, k3, yo, k2tog, k1, k2tog,
yo, k4, k1 and place this st back on left
needle, do not work last st.
Row 15: Sl 1 pwise, k3, yo, k3tog, yo, k5, k1
and place this st back on left needle, do not
work last st—2 sts on left needle.
Row 16: Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—13 sts on
right needle.
Next row: (Row 1 of Border chart) Sl 1
pwise, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k5. Place marker
(pm) to divide border and body of shawl.
SET UP FOR BODY
With empty needle and working from begin-
ning of bottom border (RS facing), pick up
each slipped edge st along straight edge of
border by placing needle through the front
of each loop—217 sts picked up (8 sts picked
up for each of 27 teeth plus 1 st picked up at
set-up row. Knit back across all these loops
by knitting in back of each stitch to give a
crossed pattern (and prevent large holes).
Next row: Sl 1 pwise, knit across the body
sts, inc 2 sts evenly spaced, sl marker (sl m),
work Row 2 of Border chart—219 body sts,
14 border sts; 233 sts total.
SHAWL BODY
Beg with Row 3, work Body chart as foll: Sl 1
pwise, k2, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k4 (for border),
sl m, cont to last 2 sts, working large patt as
charted, k2tog. Cont as charted, sl 1 pwise
at the beg of every row, and working k2tog
at the end of every pattern row of border
(odd-numbered rows) to form diagonal edge
of triangle. Cont in this manner until a total
of 27 teeth have been worked (432 rows),
ending with Row 16 of border—4 body sts
and 13 border sts rem.
TURN SECOND CORNER
Row 1: Sl 1 pwise, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k3,
k1 and place this st back on left needle, do
not work last st.
Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: Knit.
Row 3: Sl 1 pwise, k2, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k2,
k1 and place this st back on left needle, do
not work last st.
Row 5: Sl 1 pwise, [k2, yo] 2 times, k2tog,
yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k2, knit last st tog
with 2 sts from body of shawl (k3tog) and

BOTTOM BORDER
With yarn and thread held tog and using the
long-tail method (see Glossary) holding two GRAFTING TECHNIQUE
needles tog, CO 12 sts. Following Bottom Slip first stitch on left needle to right needle, pass second stitch on right needle
Border chart, work two set-up rows, then over first stitch and drop off needle (Figure 1). *Slip first stitch on right needle
work Rows 1–16 a total of 27 times—13 sts; to left needle, insert tip of right needle through first stitch purlwise and then
27 points or “teeth.” through second stitch knitwise, drawing second stitch through first, then drop
first stitch off needle (Figure 2). Slip first stitch on left needle to right needle,
TURN FIRST CORNER insert tip of left needle through first stitch purlwise and through second stitch
Work short rows to miter corner as foll: knitwise, drawing second stitch through first, then drop first stitch off needle
Row 1: Sl 1 pwise, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, (Figure 3). Repeat from * until one stitch remains.
k3, k1 and place this st back on left needle,
do not work last st—2 sts on left needle.
Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: Knit.
Row 3: Sl 1 pwise, k2, yo, k5, yo, k2tog,
Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3
k2, k1 and place this st back on left needle,

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10162009153230
 Border knit on RS and WS knit st and place back
on left needle
32
31
30
yo do not knit stitch
29
28
27 k2tog on RS and WS
26 pattern repeat
25
24
23 sl 1 pwise with yarn in front cast-on and set-up rows
22
21
20
19
k3tog marker
18
17
16
sl st pwise with yarn in front
15 (to be picked up later)
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
Body
Set-up row 2

Continue 16-row border pattern to Row 432, then turn corner 2 using short–rows.
Set-up row 1
Cast on 12 sts 47

45

43

41

39

37

35

33

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

3
Bottom Border

15

13
Cast on 12 sts

11

3
Set-up row 1

Beg short-row corner 1

417

419

421

423

425

427

429

431
11

13

15
1

First (Rows 1–16) and twenty-seventh (Rows 417–432) teeth shown. Then turn corner 1 using
short–rows. Pick up 217 slipped sts to marker. Knit one row in back loop of each stitch. On next row
(Row 2 of Border patt), knit to marker while inc 2 sts—219 sts. Knit 14 border sts—233 sts total.

Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 51

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 place this st back onto left needle.
Row 7: Sl 1 pwise, k2, yo, k1, k2tog, yo,
k3, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1 and place
this st back on left needle, do not work
last st.
Row 9: Sl 1 pwise, k3, yo, k2tog, k1, yo,
k3tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, k1 and place
this st back on left needle, do not work
last st.
Rows 10, 12, and 14: Knit to last 2 sts,
k2tog.
Row 11: Sl 1 pwise, k3, yo, k2tog, k3,
k2tog, yo, k4, knit last st tog with 2 sts
from body of shawl (k3tog) and place this
st back on left needle.
Row 13: sl 1 pwise, k3, yo, k2tog, k1,
k2tog, yo, k4, k1 and place this st back on
left needle, do not work last st.
Row 15: Sl 1 pwise, k3, yo, k3tog, yo, k5,
k1 and place this st back on left needle, do
not work last st.
Row 16: Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—13
border sts.
ANGLED BORDER
Cont working rem sts according to Border
chart as established until a total of 35
more teeth have been worked—there will
be 280 loops on back side of teeth. Place
last 13 sts of the 35th tooth on a holder.
Do not break yarn. Join Angled Border
to Shawl Body: Beg at bottom of shawl
body, pick up all 216 loops onto one
needle, with second needle, pick up 280
loops from border strip. Graft as shown
on page 50, working every 3rd loop of
the 216-loop strip with the 3rd and 4th
loops of the 280-loop strip (this cor-
rects the 64-loop difference between the
two pieces)—1 st rem. Place this st on a
holder. Transfer held 13 border sts (from
35th tooth) to right needle. Using short-
rows as for the fi rst two corners, work
through Row 7 of border patt (i.e., work
half a tooth)—17 sts on the right needle,
yarn at inside of half corner. Pick up 12
original CO sts with other needle from
outside of bottom border plus the 1 rem
st left from grafting—13 sts total. Knit
these 13 sts using the short-row method
as with the fi rst and second corners and
fi rst half of third corner. Work through
Row 7 of border patt—17 sts. There will
be 17 sts on each needle with the points
52 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_042-059_W.indd 52
of needles facing each other.
FINISHING
Graft rem sts as shown on page 50. Cut a
short piece of yarn and tie a knot through the
rem loop after grafting to prevent raveling.
Weave in loose ends. Block as foll: Beg at one
corner, thread a thick nylon cord (the sts will
stick on cotton, wool, or silk cord) loosely
from back to front through each tooth point.
Tie the ends of the cord together. Thoroughly
wet piece and squeeze out excess moisture.
Using T-pins on a fl at surface, pin the three
points of the triangle to give the shawl its ba-
sic shape and size. Connect the corner T-pins
with a separate length of cord to mark final
dimensions. Pull the cord between each tooth
out to this outer cord and anchor with T-pins.
Always pin into the loops formed by the cord,
not into the shawl. Adjust the pins and cord
as necessary until the shawl is stretched taut.
Galina Khmeleva is co-author of Gossamer
Webs: The History and Techniques of Oren-
berg Lace Shawls (Interweave, 1998) and
co-owner of Skaska Designs. For information
about her upcoming lace workshops, visit
www.skaska.com.
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
10162009153231
RUFFLED CAPELET
WITH SLEEVES
Pam Allen
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size Capelet: 44" circumference
just above ruffle and 14¼" long from
bottom edge of ruffle to top of shoulders
with bottom edge unrolled. Sleeves: 9"
circumference at upper edge, 8" circumfer-
ence at wrist, and 19" long.
Yarn Bergère de France Toison (77%
acrylic, 20% wool, 3% polyamide; 76 yd
[69 m]/50 g; Aran #4 Medium): majeste, 8
balls for capelet, 2 balls for sleeves.
Needles Size 10 (6 mm): 29" and 16";
circular (cir) for capelet; size 10 (6 mm): set
of 5 double-pointed (dpn) for sleeves.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain
the correct gauge.
Notions Markers (m); stitch holder;
tapestry needle.
Gauge 14 sts and 23 rnds = 4" in St st
worked in the rnd.
NOTES
• Ruffle is picked up and worked
downward after the capelet is
completed.
CAPELET
With 29" cir needle, CO 154 sts. Place
marker (pm) and join for beg of rnd, being
careful not to twist sts. K77 sts for front,
pm, knit to end of rnd. Work in St st (knit
every rnd) for 11 more rnds. Dec rnd: *K2,
k2tog, knit to 4 sts before next marker (m),
ssk, k2, slip m; rep from * once more—4 sts
dec’d; 150 sts rem. Work 10 rnds even. Rep
dec rnd—46 sts rem. Work 8 rnds even.
Rep dec rnd—142 sts rem. Work 6 rnds
even. Rep dec rnd—138 sts rem. Work 4
rnds even. Rep dec rnd—134 sts rem. Work
10/16/09 3:31:03 PM
 2 rnds even. Rep dec rnd—130 sts rem. Work
dec rnd every rnd 8 more times—98 sts rem;
piece should measure about 9¾" from beg.
Shape shoulders: Working St st in rows (knit
on RS, purl on WS) on 49 front sts only, BO 6
sts at beg of next 4 rows—25 sts front sts rem.
Place front sts on holder. Rejoin yarn to back
sts with RS facing. Working back and forth in
St st on 49 back sts, BO 6 sts at beg of next 4
rows—25 back sts rem. Place sts on holder.
Turn capelet inside out and with yarn
threaded on a tapestry needle, sew BO sts tog
at each shoulder. Collar: Place 50 sts for front
and back on 16" cir needle. With RS facing,
join yarn at shoulder and pm for beg of rnd.
Work in St st in rnds until collar measures 6".
BO all sts loosely. Ruffle: Beg at side, with
longer cir needle and RS facing, pick up and
knit 1 st in the first CO st at bottom edge of
capelet, *yo, pick up and knit 1 st in next CO
st; rep from * to end—308 sts. Place m and
join. Work St st in rnds until ruffle measures
3¾" from pick-up rnd (bottom edge will roll up
slightly when finished). BO all sts loosely.
Weave in loose ends. Block lightly on WS with
steam iron held 1" above fabric.
SLEEVES
With dpn, CO 32 sts. Divide sts evenly on
four needles, pm, and join for working in the
rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Work in St
st until piece measures 6" from beg. Dec rnd:
KA_042-059_W.indd 53
K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1—2 sts
dec’d; 30 sts rem. Work even until piece
measures 12" from beg. Rep dec rnd—28 sts
rem. Work even until piece measures 19"
from beg. BO all sts. Work second sleeve the
same as the first.
FINISHING
Weave in ends.
Pam Allen is the creative director of Classic
Elite Yarns. She is the former editor in chief of
Interweave Knits, author of Knitting for Dum-
mies and Scarf Style, and coauthor of Wrap
Style and Lace Style.
This project was excerpted from Scarf Style
(Interweave, 2004).
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan
SUMMER
SHAWLETTE
Sandi Wiseheart
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size 60" around lower edge and
15½" long from back of neck to lower edge,
after blocking.
Yarn Jade Sapphire Mongolian Cashmere
4-Ply (100% cashmere; 155 yd (141 m)/55 g;
DK #3 Light): lupine (periwinkle), 2 skeins.
Needles Size 10 (6 mm): 24" circular (cir).
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the
correct gauge.
Notions Size J/10 (6 mm) crochet hook;
smooth waste yarn; markers (m); removable
markers or safety pins; tapestry needle.
Gauge 16 sts and 25 rows = 4" in St st, after
blocking.
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS
10162009153231
Stitch Guide
S2kp2: Sl 2 sts tog kwise as if to k2tog, knit
the next st, pass both slipped sts over knit
st—2 sts dec’d.
Beginning Border: (BB; worked over 7 sts
at beg of both RS and WS rows) Sl 1 as if to
purl with yarn in front (pwise wyf), [k1, p1]
2 times, k2.
End Border: (EB; worked over 7 sts at end
of both RS and WS rows) K2, p1, k1, p1, k2.
Little Arrowhead Lace: (multiple of 6 sts
+ 1)
Row 1: (RS) K1, *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1;
rep from *.
Rows 2 and 4: (WS) Purl.
Row 3: K2, *yo, s2kp2, yo, k3; rep from *,
end last rep k2 instead of k3.
Rep Rows 1–4 for pattern.
NOTES
• You may find it helpful to place markers
between each repeat of the lace pattern.
• Mark the shoulder stitches by placing a
removable marker or safety pin in the
stitch itself (not between stitches on the
needle), and move these markers up every
few rows as you work.
• The first stitch of every row is slipped
purlwise with yarn in front (pwise wyf).
This will create an attractive “chain” edge
along the sides of your shawl.
• To ensure an even slipped-stitch edge,
keep yarn taut while slipping the fi rst
stitch, then move the yarn over the needle
from front to back and pull it taut again
before knitting the next stitch.
• Work the decorative bind off very loosely,
using a size larger needle to work this row
if necessary.
SHAWL
Neckband: With waste yarn and crochet
hook, use the crochet chain provisional CO
method (see page 54) to CO 7 sts. Set-up row:
K2, p1, k1, p1, k2. Work 40 rows as foll: Sl 1
pwise wyf, [k1, p1] 2 times, k2. Next row:
(WS) With same side of work facing you, rotate
piece so selvedge at end of row just completed
is uppermost. Bring yarn to front. Skipping
the first slipped selvedge st closest to the
needle, *wyf, insert right needle from back to
front under both legs of next slipped selvedge
53
10/16/09 3:31:05 PM
 st, wrap yarn around as if to purl, and draw
up a purl st onto right needle; rep from * 19
more times—20 sts picked up and purled
from selvedge of piece; 27 sts total. With
same side of work still facing you, carefully
unzip the provisional CO at base of piece
and place 7 live sts onto left needle, correct-
ing st mounts as necessary. Work across
these 7 sts as k2, p1, k1, p1, k2—34 sts.
Back and side panels:
Row 1: (RS) Work BB (see Stitch Guide)
over 7 sts, place marker (pm), knit to last
7 sts, pm, work EB (see Stitch Guide)—7
border sts at each side, 20 back panel sts
in center.
Row 2: (WS) BB, sl m, purl to next m, sl m,
EB.
Row 3: BB, sl m, yo, *k1, yo; rep from * to
m, sl m, EB—55 sts total: 7 border sts at
each side, 41 back panel sts.
Row 4: BB, sl m, p11, pm, p19, pm, p11,
sl m, EB.
Row 5: BB, sl m, *yo, k5, yo, k1 and place
a removable marker in this st to mark it
as a shoulder st, yo, k5, yo, sl m*, k1, yo,
k1, [yo, s2kp2, yo, k3] twice, yo, s2kp2,
[yo, k1] twice, sl m; rep from * to * once,
sl m, EB—65 sts: 7 border sts at each side,
2 sets of 15 side panel sts with marked
shoulder st in center, 21 back panel sts.
Even-Numbered Rows 6–26: BB, sl m,
purl to last m, sl m, EB.
Row 7: BB, sl m, *yo, knit to marked
shoulder st, yo, k1 (shoulder st), yo, knit
to m, yo*, sl m, k1, yo, pm, work Row 1 of
little arrowhead lace (see Stitch Guide)
over center 19 sts, pm, yo, k1, sl m; rep
CROCHET CHAIN (PROVISIONAL) CAST-ON:
With waste yarn and crochet hook, make a loose chain of about four stitches more
than you need to cast on. With needle, working yarn, and beginning two stitches
from end of chain, pick up and knit one stitch through the back loop of each crochet
chain (Figure 1) for desired number of stitches. Work the piece as desired, and
when you’re ready to work in the opposite direction, pull out the crochet chain to
expose live stitches (Figure 2).
Figure 1
from * to * once, sl m, EB—75 sts: 7 border
sts at each side, 2 sets of 19 side panel sts, 23
back panel sts.
Row 9: BB, sl m, *yo, knit to marked shoul-
der st, yo, k1 (shoulder st), yo, knit to m, yo*,
sl m, k1, yo, knit to patt sts, sl m, cont estab-
lished patt over center 19 sts, sl m, knit to 1
st before m, yo, k1, sl m; rep from * to * once,
sl m, EB—85 sts: 7 border sts at each side, 2
sets of 23 side panel sts, 25 back panel sts.
Rows 11, 13, and 15: BB, sl m, *yo, knit to
marked shoulder st, yo, k1 (shoulder st), yo,
knit to m, yo*, sl m, k1, yo, knit to patt sts,
sl m, cont established patt over center 19
sts, sl m, knit to 1 st before m, yo, k1, sl m;
rep from * to * once, sl m, EB—115 sts after
completing Row 15: 7 border sts at each side,
2 sets of 35 side panel sts, 31 back panel sts.
Row 17: BB, sl m, *yo, knit to marked
shoulder st, yo, k1 (shoulder st), yo, knit to
m, yo*, sl m, k2, yo, s2kp2, yo, k1, sl m, cont
established patt over center 19 sts, sl m, k1,
yo, s2kp2, yo, k2, sl m; rep from * to * once
more—123 sts: 7 border sts at each side, 2
Figure 2
sets of 39 side panel sts, 31 back panel sts.
Row 19: BB, sl m, *yo, knit to marked shoul-
der st, yo, k1 (shoulder st), yo, knit to m, yo*,
sl m, repositioning markers as you come to
them, work center 31 sts in established patt
(Row 19 should be Row 1 of patt), sl m; rep
from * to * once, sl m, EB—131 sts: 7 border
sts at each side, 2 sets of 43 side panel sts, 31
back panel sts.
Rows 21, 23, and 25: Rep the last 2 rows 3
more times, inc 4 sts in each side panel every
RS row, and cont established patt over center
31 sts—155 sts after completing Row 25: 7
border sts at each side, 2 sets of 55 side panel
sts, 31 back panel sts.
Row 27: Beg with this row, only single incs are
worked just inside the borders on RS rows. BB,
sl m, yo, knit to 1 st before marked shoulder
st, yo, s2kp2 (double decrease is centered over
shoulder st), yo, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog,
yo, sl m, cont established patt over center 31
sts, sl m, yo, ssk, knit to 1 st before marked
shoulder st, yo, s2kp2, yo, knit to m, yo, sl m,
EB—157 sts: 7 border sts at each side, 2 sets of
56 side panel sts, 31 back panel sts.
Row 28: Rep Row 6.
Rows 29–60: Rep the last 2 rows 16 more
times—189 sts after completing Row 59: 7
border sts at each side, 2 sets of 72 side panel
sts, 31 back panel sts.
Row 61: BB, sl m, yo, k2tog, knit to 1 st
before marked shoulder st, yo, s2kp2, yo,
knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, yo, sl m, cont
established patt over center 31 sts, sl m, yo,
ssk, knit to 1 st before marked shoulder st,
yo, s2kp2, yo, knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, yo,
sl m, EB—no change to stitch count. Th is
should be Row 3 of lace patt.
Row 62: Rep Row 6.
Lower lace border:
Row 1: (RS) BB, sl m, work Row 1 of lace patt
over center 175 sts, sl m, EB.
Row 2: BB, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, EB.
Row 3: BB, sl m, work Row 3 of lace patt
over center 175 sts, sl m, EB.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Rows 5 and 6: Rep Rows 1 and 2 once more.
Row 7: BB, sl m, knit to last m removing other
markers as you come to them, sl last m, EB.
Row 8: BB, sl m, purl to last m, dec 1 st in
center section, sl m, EB—188 sts.
Lower edging:
Row 1: (RS) BB, sl m, *k1, p1; rep from * to

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 Ostrich Plumes
m, sl m, EB.
31
Row 2: BB, sl m, *p1, k1; rep from * to m,
sl m, EB. 29

Rows 3–8: Rep Rows 1 and 2 three more 27

times—8 rows total in seed st lower edging. 25
Bind-off row: (RS) Working loosely (see
23
Notes), *k2tog through the back loops, return
21
st just worked to left needle; rep from * until
1 st rem. Fasten off last st. 19

17
FINISHING 15
With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle,
13
weave in loose ends. Soak gently in no-rinse
11
wool wash for 15 minutes, then roll in a towel
to remove excess moisture. Spread shawl on 9

blocking board or towels, block to fi nished 7

measurements, and let dry completely. 5

3
Sandi Wiseheart is the former editor of
Knitting Daily and still contributes with her 1

“What’s on Sandi’s Needles” blog. She lives,

knits, and writes in Milton, Ontario.
knit on RS; purl on WS
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
k2tog

ssk

yo

sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1,
pass 2 sl sts over

pattern repeat

LACE
PONCHO
Susan Sternlieb
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size Rectangle measures about 16"
wide (average) and 50" long, before sewing;
edges of piece will be wavy.
Yarn Classic Elite Kumara (85% extra
fine merino, 15% baby camel, 128 yd [117
m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #5736 java,
4 balls.
Needles Size 8 (5 mm). Adjust needle size if
necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Tapestry needle; pins.
Gauge 16 sts = 4" wide, and 32 rows (1 patt sew pieces tog, sewing 1 or 2 sts in from
rep) = 5½" high worked in Ostrich Plumes selvedge of upper layer so that curved edge
chart, after blocking. is left free and not pulled straight by the
seam. Weave in loose ends.
PONCHO
CO 65 sts. Work Ostrich Plumes chart until Susan Sternlieb is a former editorial as-
Rows 1–32 have been repeated a total of 9 sistant for Interweave Knits.
times; 288 rows completed; piece should
measure about 50". BO all sts. Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
FINISHING
Block to approximate measurements, allow-
ing the fabric to curve into scallops on all
4 sides. Bring the BO edge around to meet
lower 16" of long side edge and pin in place
with long side edge slightly overlapping BO
edge. With yarn threaded on tapestry needle,

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MINI
PONCHO
Meema Spadola
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size Rectangle measures 13"
wide and 44" long, before sewing.
Yarn Knit Picks Andean Silk (55% super-
fine alpaca 23% silk, 22% merino wool;
96 yd [88 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium):
#23510 lettuce (MC), 4 skeins. Knit
Picks Elegance (70% baby alpaca, 30%
silk; 110 yd [100 m]/50 g; DK #3 Light):
#23530 wild rose (CC) , 1 skein. Yarn
distributed by Crafts Americana.
Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust needle
size if necessary to obtain the correct
gauge.
Notions Sizes E/4 and G/6 crochet hooks;
tapestry needle.
Gauge 10 sts and 10 rows = 4" in purse
stitch.
Stitch Guide
Purse Stitch with Selvedge Sts: (even
number of sts)
All rows: Sl 1 as if to purl with yarn in
front, k1, *yo, p2tog; rep from * to last 2
sts, k2.
NOTES
• See Glossary for crochet chain (ch), slip
stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), and
treble crochet (tr) instructions.
PONCHO
With MC, CO 32 sts. Work purse st until
piece measures 44" from beg. BO all sts,
working each yarnover as its own separate
st in the BO row.
5-PETAL FLOWER
With CC and smaller crochet hook, ch 7,
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KA_042-059_W.indd 56
sl st in first ch to join into a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 14 sc into ring, sl st in fi rst ch
of rnd.
Rnd 2: Ch 4, *[2 tr in next sc] 2 times, ch 3,
sc in next sc, ch 3; rep from * 3 more times, [2
tr in next sc] 2 times, ch 3, sl st in first ch of
rnd. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Block to measurements. Lay poncho fl at with
BO edge at top, bring BO edge around to beg
of left-hand long side. With WS facing, using
MC and larger crochet hook, join seam by
working sc across, inserting hook through
both layers. Fasten off. Edging: With RS fac-
ing, using CC and larger hook, work 1 row of
sc around both the neck opening and bottom
edge, working 1 sc in each slipped selvedge st.
Attach crochet flower to lower edge of seam
on RS. Weave in ends.
Meema Spadola is a former editorial
advisor for Interweave Knits.
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
CHUNK Y LACE
WRAP
Lisa Shroyer
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size About 44"' long and 10½"'
wide at center. To fit a woman’s size small.
Yarn Knit One, Crochet Too Fleece (100%
polyester; 109 yd [100 m]/50 g; Bulky #5
Bulky): #325 mango, #353 coral, 2 balls
each.
Needles Size 15 (10 mm). Adjust needle
size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Size H/8 (5 mm) crochet hook;
10162009153247
tapestry needle.
Gauge 7½ sts and 8½ rows = 4"' in little
arrowhead lace with yarn doubled.
Stitch Guide
Little Arrowhead Lace: (multiple of 6 sts
+ 1)
Rows 1 and 3: (WS) Purl.
Row 2: (RS) K1, *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1;
rep from *.
Row 4: K2, *yo, sl 2 kwise, k1, pass 2
slipped sts over, yo, k3; rep from *, ending
last rep k2 instead of k3.
Rep Rows 1–4 for pattern.
NOTES
• Tothewear, put one hole over head, wrap
piece under the arm, across the back,
under the second arm to the front, and
then put the second hole over the head.
• When first worked, the head openings will
seem small, but the elasticity of the lace
will allow the holes to stretch to fit over the
head. If a larger head opening is desired,
work more rows of garter stitch on either
side of the head opening.
• For larger wrap than shown, work more
repeats of little arrowhead lace between
the back “seam” and the beginning of
bound-off head openings. Each 4-row
pattern repeat added will lengthen each
half of the wrap by about 1⅞", which will
add about 3¾" to the total length of the
wrap.
WRAP
With 2 strands of coral held tog, loosely CO
19 sts. Beg with Row 1, work 4 rows in little
arrowhead lace (see Stitch Guide). Purl 1 WS
row. Head opening: (RS) K4, join second ball
of yarn, BO next 11 sts, k4. Working each side
separately, work 3 rows in garter st (knit every
row). Next row: (RS) K4, with the backward-
loop method (see Glossary), CO 11 sts, k4
to end. Beg with WS Row 1, work 10 reps of
little arrowhead lace or until desired length to
center back (see Notes). Purl 1 WS row. Change
to 2 strands of mango held tog, and knit 1
RS row. Beg with WS Row 1 of patt, work 10
reps of little arrowhead lace, or same number
of repeats as for coral half of wrap. Purl 1 WS
row. Head opening: (RS) K4, BO next 11
sts, k4. Working each side separately, work 3
10/16/09 3:31:07 PM
 rows in garter st. Next row: ( RS) K4, with the
backward-loop method, CO 11 sts, k4 to end.
Beg with Row 1, work 4 rows in little arrow-
head lace. Purl 1 WS row. BO all sts loosely.
FINISHING
Edging: With crochet hook and 2 strands of
mango held tog, beg at color change at center
back, insert hook through st, yo, pull up a
loop, insert hook through next st, yo, pull up a
loop (2 loops on hook), *ch 1, pull loop through
both loops on hook, insert hook through next
st, yo, pull up a loop; rep from * all the way
around outer edge of wrap, keeping crochet sts
loose and even, then work a sl st into first st
of edging to complete the rnd. Fasten off last
st. With 2 strands of mango held tog, work
edging in the same manner around both head
openings, working loosely so opening will
stretch to fit over head. With yarn threaded on
a tapestry needle, weave in all loose ends.
Lisa Shroyer is senior editor of Interweave
Knits and editor of Knitscene.
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
ARROWHEAD
STOLE
Mary Jane Mucklestone
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size 10" wide and 51" long, after
blocking
Yarn Fleece Artist Blue Face Leicester 2-Ply
(100% wool; 1000 yd [912 m]/250 g; Finger-
ing #1 Super Fine): seafoam, 1 hank.
Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust needle size
if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Tapestry needle.
KA_042-059_W.indd 57
Gauge 21 sts and 28 rows = 4" in lace and St
st patt for center of scarf, after blocking. Ex-
act gauge is not critical but will affect overall
scarf dimensions.
Stitch Guide
Little Arrowhead Lace: (worked over 7 sts)
Row 1: (RS) K1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1.
Rows 2 and 4: (WS) Purl.
Row 3: K2, yo, sl 2 kwise, k1, pass 2 slipped
sts over, yo, k2.
Rep Rows 1–4 for pattern.
NOTES
• Slip first stitch of every row as if to purl.
SCARF
Loosely CO 59 sts.
Rib Row 1: (RS) Sl 1, *p1, k1; rep from * to
end of row.
Rib Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, *k1, p1; rep from * to
end of row.
Rep these 2 rows until piece measures 1"
from CO, ending with a WS row. Work lace
and St st patt as foll:
Row 1: (RS) Sl 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, p1, *work
Row 1 of little arrowhead lace (see Stitch
Guide) over 7 sts, p1, k3, p1; rep from * 2
more times, work Row 1 of little arrowhead
lace over 7 sts, [p1, k1] 4 times.
Rows 2 and 4: (WS) Sl 1, [k1, p1] 3 times,
k1, purl to last 8 sts, [k1, p1] 4 times.
Row 3: Sl 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, p1, *work
Row 3 of little arrowhead lace over 7 sts, p1,
k3, p1; rep from * 2 more times, work Row 3
of little arrowhead lace over 7 sts, [p1, k1] 4
times.
10162009153247
Rep Rows 1–4 until piece measures 50"
from CO, or 1" less than desired total
length, ending with Row 4 of patt. Rep Rib
Rows 1 and 2 for 1", ending with a WS row.
BO all sts loosely in rib patt.
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends. Block to
measurements.
Mary Jane Mucklestone lives in Searsmont,
Maine. You can read about her knitting at
www.maryjanemidgemink.blogspot.com.
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
STAR RIB MESH
PONCHO
Mary Jane Mucklestone
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size Rectangle measures 15"
wide and 42" long, before sewing.
Yarn Karabella Yarns Margrite (80%
extrafi ne merino wool, 20% cashmere,
154 yd [140 m]/50 g; DK #3 Light): #13,
3 balls.
Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust needle
size if necessary to obtain the correct
gauge.
Notions Tapestry needle.
Gauge 19½ sts and 24 rows = 4" in star rib
mesh pattern, after blocking.
Stitch Guide
Sl 2, K1, P2sso: Sl 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1,
pass the 2 slipped sts over—2 sts dec’d.
Star Rib Mesh: (multiple of 4 sts + 1)
Row 1: (RS) K1, *yo, sl 2, k1, p2sso (see
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 57
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 above), yo, k1; rep from *.
Rows 2 and 4: Purl.
Row 3: Ssk, yo, k1, *yo, sl 2, k1, p2sso, yo,
k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, yo, k2tog.
Rep Rows 1–4 for pattern.
PONCHO
CO 73 sts. Knit 7 rows. Next row: K4
(edge sts, work in garter st throughout),
p65, k4 (edge sts; work in garter st
throughout). Change to star rib mesh
patt (see Stitch Guide), and keeping 4 sts
at each side in garter st (knit every row),
work in patt over center 65 sts until piece
measures 42" long, or desired length to fit
around your shoulders. BO all sts loosely;
piece does not have 7 rows of garter st at
the end.
FINISHING
Block to measurements. With yarn
threaded on a tapestry needle, sew BO
edge to right selvedge at beg of piece.
Weave in loose ends.
Mary Jane Mucklestone lives in Searsmont,
Maine. You can read about her knitting at
www.maryjanemidgemink.blogspot.com.
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
STOCKINETTE
AND SEED
PONCHO
Cyrene Slegona
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size Rectangle measures 13"
wide and 46" long, before sewing.
Yarn Brown Sheep Lamb’s Pride Super-
wash Bulky (100% washable wool, 110 yd
58 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_042-059_W.indd 58
[101 m]/100 g; Bulky #5 Bulky): fuchsia
blaze, 8 skeins.
Needles Size 11 (8 mm). Adjust needle size
if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Tapestry needle; markers (optional).
Gauge 11 sts and 17 rows = 4" in St st and
seed patt with yarn doubled.
Stitch Guide
Seed Stitch: (odd number of sts)
All rows: *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Rep this row for pattern.
NOTES
• Yarn is used doubled throughout.
• You may find it helpful to place markers
between the stockinette and seed stitch
patterns until they become established.
PONCHO
With 2 strands of yarn held tog, CO 35 sts.
Work in seed st (see Stitch Guide) for 6 rows.
Work St st and seed patt as foll:
Row 1: (RS) *Work 5 sts seed st, k5; rep from
* 2 more times, work 5 sts seed st.
Row 2: *Work 5 sts seed st, p5; rep from * 2
more times, work 5 sts seed st.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 44½"
from beg. Work 6 rows seed st. BO all sts.
FINISHING
Block to measurements. With yarn threaded
on a tapestry needle, sew short end of
rectangle to one end of a long side. Weave in
loose ends.
Cyrene Slegona is a former editorial advisor
for Interweave Knits.
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
10162009153247
LITTLE ARROWHEAD
SHAWL
Pam Allen
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size About 40" wide across top
edge and 19" long from the center of the top
edge to bottom point, after blocking.
Yarn Halcyon Yarn Gemstone Silk 2/5 (100%
silk; 260 yd [238 m]/100 g; DK #3 Light):
#116, 1 skein.
Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm): 24" circular (cir).
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the
correct gauge.
Notions Markers (m); sharp-point sewing
needle.
Gauge 18 sts and 21 rows = 4" in charted
lace pattern, after blocking.
NOTES
• Shawl begins in the center of the long side
at the top and is shaped by increasing one
stitch on either side of center and one
stitch inside each 2-stitch garter stitch
border every RS row. The bind-off edge
forms the two short sides of the shawl.
• Use markers to set off the center stitch
and the garter stitch edges at each side as
indicated by green lines on the charts. You
may also find it helpful to use markers to set
off each full pattern repeat as indicated by
the red boxes on the charts.
• When you have worked to the end of
Chart 1, the number of stitches will have
increased enough to add 2 more repeats
of the main pattern on either side of the
center stitch. For example, the fi rst time
you repeat just Rows 9–20, there will be
enough stitches for 3 pattern repeats on
each side of the center stitch, the follow-
ing time there will be enough stitches for
5 pattern repeats on each side of center,
and so on, until there are 13 pattern re-
10/16/09 3:31:08 PM
 peats on each side of center the sixth and Chart 2, and work Rows 1–8 once—207 sts.
last time you repeat just Rows 9–20. BO all sts very loosely on next WS row.
• You can increase the size of the shawl by
adding more repeats of Rows 9–20 before FINISHING
beginning the edging from Chart 2. Every With yarn threaded on a sewing needle,
additional 12 rows will add about 1¾" weave in ends by piercing the strands of the
to the height from center of top edge to shawl on the WS to better secure the slippery
bottom of point, and about 5¼" to the silk tails. Pin shawl to finished measure-
total “wingspan” across the top edge. Plan ments. Steam gently without touching iron to
to purchase extra yarn if making a larger shawl and let dry.
shawl; the sample shown here used almost
exactly a whole skein of the suggested Pam Allen is the creative director of Classic
yarn. Elite Yarns. She is the former editor in chief of
Interweave Knits, author of Knitting for Dum-
mies and Scarf Style, and coauthor of Wrap
SHAWL
Style and Lace Style.
CO 7 sts. Work Rows 1–20 according to
Chart 1, placing markers (pm) as indicated
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
by green lines on Row 1, and, if desired, on
either side of pattern reps indicated by red
boxes on Row 9 (see Notes). Rep Rows 9–20
six more times, pm between new patt reps as
they become established, if desired—191 sts;
92 rows completed from Chart 1. Change to

Chart 1
19

17
k on RS; p on WS
15

p on RS; k on WS 13

11
yo
9

7
k2tog
5
ssk 3

1
sl 2 sts as if to k2tog,
k1, pass 2 slipped sts over
center st

no stitch

pattern repeat Chart 2

7
marker position
5

center st

Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 59

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 H ATS
For winter warmth or fashion frivolity, create a
new look with just a few hours of knitting.

KOOLHAAS HAT
by Jared Flood
YARN Shokay Yarn Shambala
Page 68

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 SIDEWAYS GRANDE HAT
by Laura Irwin
YARN Plymouth Baby Alpaca Grande
Page 69

SABRINA TAM
by Interweave Knits Staff
YARN Filatura di Crosa Ananas,
distributed by Tahki Stacy Charles
Page 69

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 DECEMBER LIGHTS TAM
by Mary Jane Mucklestone
YARN Rauma Finullgarn, distributed by
Nordic Fiber Arts
Page 70

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 LOCK NEST HAT
by Teri Barr
YARN Cascade 220
Page 71

EARFLAP HATS
by Interweave Knits Staff LARKSPUR HAT
YARNS Sirdar Peru, distributed by Knitting Fever; Black by Kara Gott
Forest Naturwolle, distributed by Muench Yarns; Nashua YARN Nashua Handknits Julia,
Handknits Wooly Stripes, distributed by Westminster Fibers distributed by Westminster Fibers
Page 72 Page 73

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 PEEK-A-BOO CLOCHE
by Mona Schmidt
YARN Reynolds Soft Sea Wool, distributed by JCA
Page 74

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 BRIOCHE HELMET HAT
by Kelly Bridges
YARN Frog Tree Yarns Alpaca Sport Weight, distributed by
T&C Imports
Page 76

TWEED BERET
by Kristen TenDyke
YARN Tahki Donegal Tweed
Page 75

MOLLY'S HEADBAND
by Pam Allen
YARN Frog Tree Yarns Alpaca Sport
Weight, distributed by T&C Imports
Page 79

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Being able to knit circular to
create a tubular fabric has one
big advantage—no seams. Plus,
if you’re knitting stockinette, you
never have to purl!
To knit in the round, you’ll need an array
of sizes in double-pointed (sets of four or five)
and circular needles. Circular needles are
available in different lengths, the most com-
mon being 16", 24", and 29". The circular nee-
dle used must be shorter than the circumfer-
ence of the garment. You can compact the
stitches on the needle, but you can’t stretch
out work that is too narrow. The shortest cir-
cular needle available is 9" so any garment
w ith a nar rower circumference must be
worked on double-pointed needles that can
accommodate as little as one stitch per needle.
Socks or gloves can be worked on a 9" circular
66 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_066-067_CircKnit.indd 66
Circular Knitting
A.K.A. KNITTING
IN THE ROUND
needle but are more easily worked on double-
pointed needles. A 16" needle is a good length
of a hat with a 21" circumference, but you’ll
need to switch to double-pointed needles as
you begin decreasing to shape the crown. The
pattern will designate what size and length
circular needle is recommended or whether
double-pointed needles are better. The abbre-
viation for double-pointed needles is dpn’s
and many knitters refer to them by the
abbreviation.
Pattern directions for circular knitting call
the rows “rounds.” Th e major diff erence be-
tween working in rounds and working back
and forth in rows is that when you’re working
in rounds, you don’t turn the work. Since the
right side of the work is always facing you,
you don’t need to change knit stitches to purl
stitches on the wrong side of the work. For
this reason, if you are working in rounds in
stockinette stitch, every stitch will be a knit
stitch. If you are working rounds in ribbing,
simply work each stitch as it appears to main-
tain the continuity of the rib.
10162009154446
Left: You can
knit on a variety of
needles made from
wood, plastic, or
metal: double-pointed,
short circular, or long
circular.
The trickiest part of circular knitting is get-
ting started. To knit in the round on circular
needles, cast on the recommended number of
stitches, just as you would if working on
straight needles. Make sure all the cast-on
stitches are hanging below the needle and are
not twisted around the needle. (This is the most
common error—stitches get twisted in the
process of casting on and the only alternative
is to rip out and cast on again.) Now hold one
needle tip in each hand with the end of the
needle connected to the working yarn in your
right hand. Depending on the stitch pattern,
knit or purl into the first stitch on the left-hand
needle—this was the first cast-on stitch. Again,
be careful not to twist stitches. After this first
connecting stitch is made, work the rest of the
round according to pattern. You may want to
place a stitch marker on the needle to help you
keep track of the first stitch of the round. You’ll
slip this marker as you work each round.
If you’re using double-pointed needles,
after casting the stitches on to one needle,
divide the total number of stitches evenly
10/16/09 3:41:47 PM
 Join stitches for circular knitting by working Figure 1. Divide the stitches among three Figure 2. Join for circular knitting by work-
the first stitch casted on. (or four) double-pointed needles. ing the first cast-on stitch.

between three or four needles (needles usu-
ally come in sets of four or five, but you need
one to knit with) by sliding stitches over from
either end (Figure 1).
Once you have the stitches on your nee-
dles, arrange them in a triangle (or four nee-
dles in a square) so that the cast-on edge faces
the inside. Now you’re ready to join your
work. With the spare needle, begin to knit
with the yarn from the right-hand needle,
pulling the fi rst stitch fi rmly to eliminate a
gap ( Figure 2 ). After the first stitch use a
marker to mark the beginning of each new
round. Work to the end of the first needle
and use that needle as a spare to work stitch-
es from the next needle. Continue in this
manner around.
Illustrations: Sara Boore

The Jogless Jog
Knitting color stripes in the round can result in jogs at the
"seam" line where each new round begins. This occurs because the
fi rst stitch in the row above a color change is actually the last
stitch of the previous row of color, so it looks like you didn’t
change colors soon enough. (Th is happens because when you’re
knitting in the round you’re actually knitting a spiral, not a circle.)
In Meg Swansen's Knitting (Interweave, 1999), Meg offers an inge-
nious technique for eliminating these jogs when working solid-
color stripes of two or more rounds.
Work the fi rst stripe (let's call that color A) for the desired
number of rounds, change colors (color B) and knit one round.
Work the fi rst stitch of the second round with color B as fol-
lows: Pick up the right side of the stitch in the row below the
stitch on the needle (it will be color A), put it on the left needle
and knit it together with the fi rst stitch on the needle. You will
have worked the fi rst stitch of the round twice, but because you
work into the stitch below the one on the needle the second time,
you have only worked it for one round and it appears as if it were
worked just once.
The jog between the two colors disappears and the beginning
of the round for color changes only is shifted one stitch to the left.
Note: Do not change the position of markers required for the
placement of any shaping decreases or increases (such as ones
used for waist shaping).
Continue working as many rounds as you want with color B.
To change to another color, simple repeat the process, working
the first stitch of the round a second time by picking up the stitch
in the row below the stitch on the needle and knitting it together
with the first stitch on the needle, thereby shifting the beginning
of the round one more stitch to the left for color changes.
For a video clip of this technique, Eunny Jang demonstrates two
ways to avoid the jog on Knitting Daily TV Episode 311.

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 KOOLHAAS
HAT
Jared Flood
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size 16" head circumference
and 7 (8)" tall. To fit a woman (man). Hat
shown in woman’s size.
Yarn Shokay Yarn Shambala (100%
yak; 164 yd [150 m]/100 g; Worsted #4
Medium): cranberry, 1 skein.
Needles Sizes 6 (4 mm) and 8 (5 mm): 16"
circular (cir). Size 8 (5 mm): set of 4 or 5
double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if
necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Marker (m); cable needle (cn);
tapestry needle.
Gauge 26 sts and 30 rows = 4" in lattice
patt from chart on larger needle.
HAT
With smaller cir needle, CO 104 sts. Place
marker (pm) and join for working in the
rnd. Next rnd: *K1, p2, k1; rep from *
around. Rep last rnd 9 more times—piece
measures about 1¼" from CO. Change to
larger cir needle and work Rows 1–5 of
Lattice chart. Note: Marker placement
will shift twice in each chart rep, on Rows
6 and 8. On these rows, work as foll:
Rnd 6: Work in patt to last st of rnd, sl
last st to right needle, remove m, sl st back
to left needle and replace m—this marks
the new beg of rnd for Rnds 7 and 8.
Work Rnd 7 in patt.
Rnd 8: Work in patt to end of rnd, remove
m, sl next st and replace m—this marks
beg of Rnds 1–5.
Work Rows 1–8 of chart 4 (5) times total.
Work Row 1 once more. Shape crown:
Work as foll, changing to dpn when
necessary:
68 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_060-079_HATS.indd 68
Rnd 1: *P1, knit next 2 sts through their
back loops (k2tbl), p2tog, k2tbl, p1; rep from
* around—91 sts rem.
Rnd 2: *P1, 1/1 LC, p1, 1/1 LC, p1; rep from
* around.
Rnd 3: *P1, k2tbl, p1, k2tbl, p1; rep from *
around.
Rnd 4: *1/1 RPC, sl 1, k2tog, psso, 1/1 LPC;
rep from * around—65 sts rem.
Rnd 5: *K1tbl, p1, k1tbl, p1, k1tbl; rep from * to
last 5 sts, k1tbl, p1, k1tbl, p1, sl last st, remove
m, sl st back to left needle and replace m.
Rnd 6: *Ssk, p1, k1tbl, p1; rep from *
around—52 sts rem.
Rnd 7: *K1tbl, p1, k1tbl, p1; rep from *
around.
Rnd 8: *K1tbl, p1, ssk; rep from * around,
remove m, sl next st, replace m—39 sts rem.
knit through back loop (tbl)
purl
pattern repeat
1/1 LC: sl 1 st onto cn and hold in front, k1tbl, k1tbl from cn
1/1 RPC: sl 1 st onto cn and hold in back, k1tbl, p1 from cn
1/1 LPC: sl 1 st onto cn and hold in front, p1, k1tbl from cn
10162009154443
Rnd 9: *P1, ssk; rep from * around, remove
m, sl next st, replace m—26 sts rem.
Rnd 10: *Ssk; rep from * around—13 sts rem.
Break yarn, leaving a 10" tail. With tail
threaded on a tapestry needle, draw tail
through all rem sts and pull to gather. Secure
tail to WS. Weave in loose ends.
Jared Flood is an artist, a photographer, and
a knitwear designer living in Brooklyn. He has
published designs in both books and maga-
zines and is the creator of Brooklyn Tweed, at
www.brooklyntweed.net.
Project Photos: Joe Hancock
Lattice
8*
7
6*
5
3
1
* see note
10/16/09 3:40:06 PM

SABRINA
TAM
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size 20" circumference, relaxed.
Will stretch to 22" circumference.
Yarn Filatura di Crosa Ananas (65% vis-
cose, 20% polyamide, 15% acrylic, 55 yd
[50 m]/50 g; Chunky #5 Bulky): #109 pink/
blue/purple multi, 2 balls. Yarn distributed by
Tahki Stacy Charles.
Needles Size 10 (6 mm): set of 4 double-
pointed (dpn) and 16" circular (cir). Adjust
needle size if necessary to obtain the correct
gauge.
Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle.
Gauge 12 sts and 15 rows = 4" in St st worked
in the rnd.
NOTES
• Thcenter
e tam is worked in the round from the
of the crown to the outer edge. Be-
gin by working on double-pointed needles
and switch to a circular needle when the
hat circumference is large enough.
• You may find it helpful to use markers
between the six sections.
• This project uses yarnover (yo) increases
for shaping. On the first round, work the
yarnover as usual. On the following round,
work each yarnover through its back loop
to reduce the size of the hole. The texture
of the yarn will disguise the holes.
TAM
With dpn, CO 6 sts. Divide sts onto 3 dpn,
with 2 sts on each dpn. Place marker (pm) and
join for working in the rnd, being careful not
to twist sts. Work as foll:
Rnds 1, 3, and 5: Knit.
Rnd 2: *K1, yo; rep from *—12 sts.
Rnd 4: *K2, yo; rep from *—18 sts.
Rnd 6: *K3, yo; rep from *—24 sts.
Cont in this manner, working 1 more st before
KA_060-079_HATS.indd 69
making a yo in each inc rnd, and working
1 rnd even between inc rnds, until you’ve
worked a rnd of k12, yo—78 sts; 13 sts each
in 6 sections. Work even in St st until piece
measures about 6½" from center of crown,
measured straight along a single column of sts
from CO to needles. Cont as foll:
Rnd 1: *K11, k2tog; rep from *—72 sts rem.
Rnds 2 and 4: Knit.
Rnd 3: *K10, k2tog; rep from *—66 sts rem.
Rnd 5: *K9, k2tog; rep from *—60 sts rem.
Rnds 6–9: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
BO all sts in rib.
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends.
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan
SIDEWAYS
GRANDE HAT
Laura Irwin
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size 20" circumference. To fit 21½–
23" head circumference.
Yarn Plymouth Baby Alpaca Grande (100%
baby alpaca; 110 yd [101 m]/100 g; Chunky #5
Bulky): #401 gray, 2 skeins.
Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm), size 8 (5 mm), size
9 (5.5 mm), and size 10 (6 mm). Adjust needle
size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions 2 locking-ring markers; tapestry
needle.
Gauge 22 sts and 20 rows = 4" in rib patt on
largest needles.
HAT
Brim: With largest needles, CO 42 sts.
Row 1: (WS) *K2, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS
10162009154443
Row 2: Work sts as they appear.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures
14½" from CO. Change to second largest
needles and continue in patt until piece
measures 16" from CO. Change to second
smallest needles and continue in patt until
piece measures 17½" from CO. Change to
smallest needles and continue in patt until
piece measures 20" from CO.
BO all sts in patt.
CROWN
With second largest needles, RS facing,
and beg at CO edge, pick up and knit 68 sts
along selvedge to BO edge.
Rows 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9: (WS) Purl.
Row 2: (dec row) K1, *k4, k2tog; rep from
* to last st, k1—57 sts rem.
Row 4: K1, *k3, k2tog; rep from * to last
st, k1—46 sts rem.
Row 6: K1, *k2, k2tog; rep from * to last
st, k1—35 sts rem.
Row 8: K1, *k1, k2tog; rep from * to last
st, k1—24 sts rem.
Row 10: K1, *k2tog; rep from * to last st,
k1—13 sts rem.
Row 11: P1, *p2tog; rep from * to last 2
sts, p2—8 sts rem.
Cut yarn, leaving an 8" tail. Pull tail
through rem 8 sts and fasten off inside.
With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle,
use mattress st (see Glossary) to sew side
of hat, being sure to line up ribs.
69
10/16/09 3:40:08 PM
 with light marine blue, knit

CABLE
with light marine blue, purl
First strap: At bottom edge of hat, mea-
sure 1" on each side of seam. Mark with with chartreuse, knit
locking-ring markers. With WS facing
and largest needles, pick up and knit 4 sts with chartreuse, purl
between m and seam on each side of m—8
sts total. with bright olive green, knit

Row 1: (RS of hat; WS of strap) K2, p1, k2,

p1, k2.
Row 2: P2, k1, p2, k1, p2.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 7¼"
from picked up edge, ending with Row 1.
Next row: (bind-off row) P1, p2tog, pass
purl st over p2tog to BO 1 st, BO all sts to
last 3 sts, p2tog, pass st over p2tog to BO
1 st, p1, pass p2tog over purl st to BO 1
st. Fasten off last st—no sts rem. Second
strap: With WS facing, measure 2" to the
right of first cable strap and mark with
locking-ring marker. With WS facing and
largest needles, pick up and knit 8 sts
between marker and first strap.
Beg with Row 1, work as for first strap.
with bright olive green, purl
with bright olive green, sl 2 tog kwise, k1, p2sso
DECEMBER
LIGHTS TAM with yellow green, knit
Mary Jane Mucklestone with yellow green, purl
with yellow green, sl 2 tog kwise, k1, p2sso
Skill Level Intermediate
with green, knit
Finished Size 18" head circumference at
brim; 10" diameter at widest point. with green, purl
Yarn Rauma Finullgarn (100% wool; 180 yd
[165 m]/50 g; Fingering #1 Super Fine): with green, sl 2 tog kwise, k1, p2sso
#446 rose, #456 fuchsia, #424 tomato red,
#4705 light marine blue, #430 green, #455 with tomato red, knit

yellow green, #498 bright olive green, #454

FINISHING
Wrap the two straps around each other 3
times, being sure that they lie fl at against
hat. With yarn threaded on a tapestry
needle, sew BO edges of straps to last
horizontal rib of hat near crown. Use
with tomato red, sl 2 tog kwise, k1, p2sso
chartreuse, 1 ball each. Yarn distributed by
Nordic Fiber Arts. with fuchsia, knit
Needles Ribbing—size 2 (2.75 mm): 16"
circular (cir). Body—size 3 (3.25 mm): 16" cir with fuchsia, sl 2 tog kwise, k1, p2sso
and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust
needle size if necessary to obtain the correct with rose, knit

running st (see Glossary) to secure cable to gauge.

with rose, purl
hat. Weave in loose ends.
pattern repeat
Laura Irwin is a featured designer at Sea-
plane, an independent designer boutique
in Portland, Oregon. Her knitwear patterns Body
have appeared in Knitscene and Inter- 27
weave Knits. She lives in Portland, Oregon.
25

This project was excerpted from Boutique 23

Knits (Interweave, 2008). Rib
21

Project Photos: Joe Hancock 19 9

17 7
15
5
13
3
11
1
9

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10202009131312
 the rnd. Work Rows 1–10 of Rib chart. Next
rnd: With rose, knit and inc 24 sts evenly
spaced—160 sts. Change to larger needle and
work Rows 1–27 of Body chart. Next rnd:
With rose, *k32, pm; rep from * 3 more times,
knit to end. Top: Work Rows 1–30 of Wheel
chart, working each row as foll: *beg at center
of chart where indicated, work to left edge of
chart, move to right edge of chart (column
with double decs) and work to center; rep
from * 4 more times. When Row 30 is com-
LOCK NEST
plete, use rem 5 sts and fuchsia to work 5-st HAT
I-cord (see Glossary) until cord measures ½". Te r i B a r r
BO all sts. Weave in loose ends. Block to size
by stretching over foam core disk (or plate). Skill Level Easy

Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle; 10"
diameter foam core disk (or plate).
Gauge 26 sts and 28 rnds = 4" in colorwork
patt on larger needle.
HAT
With rose and smaller needle, CO 136 sts.
Place marker (pm) and join for working in
Wheel
Mary Jane Mucklestone lives in Searsmont,
Maine. You can read about her knitting at
www.maryjanemidgemink.blogspot.com.
Project Photos: Joe Hancock
29
27
Finished Size 26" head circumference and
19" high, before felting; 22" head circum-
ference and 10" high, after felting.
Yarn Cascade 220 (100% wool; 220 yd
[201 m]/100 g; Worsted #4 Medium):
#8888 purple, 1 skein.
Needles Size 11 (8 mm): 20" circular (cir)
and double-pointed (dpn) needles. Adjust
needle size if necessary to obtain the cor-
rect gauge.
Notions Cable needle (cn); markers;
tapestry needle.
Gauge 12 sts and 16 rows = 4" in St st
worked in the rnd before felting; 14 sts
and 32 rows = 4" in St st worked in the rnd
after felting.

25 Stitch Guide
2/2LC: Sl 2 sts to cn and hold in back, k2,
23
k2 from cn.
21
NOTE
19
• This hat is worked in the round in stocki-
nette stitch, but is turned inside out after
17
felting so the purl side is the right side.
15

13 HAT
With cir needle, CO 66 sts. Place marker
11
(pm)and join for working in the rnd, slip-
9 ping last CO st to left needle and knitting
the first and last CO sts together—65 sts
7
rem. Next rnd: Sl 1, knit to end. Knit 3
5 more rnds. Inc rnd: *K4, knit into front
and back of next st; rep from * around—78
3
sts. Work in St st until piece measures 9"
1 from CO. Shaping: Switching to dpn when
necessary, start dec rnds as follows:
beg

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10162009154444
 Dec Rnd 1: *K10, k2tog; rep from * to last
6 sts, k6—72 sts rem. Knit 3 rnds.
Dec Rnd 2: *K2tog, k10; rep from * to end
of rnd—66 sts rem. Knit 3 rnds.
Dec Rnd 3: K5, *k2tog, k9; rep from * to
last 6 sts, k2tog, k4—60 sts rem.
Knit 3 rnds.
Dec Rnd 4: *K2tog, k8; rep from * to end
of rnd—54 sts rem.
Knit 3 rnds.
Dec Rnd 5: K4, *k2tog, k7; rep from * to
last 5 sts, k2tog, k3—48 sts rem.
Knit 3 rnds.
Dec Rnd 6: *K2tog, k6; rep from * to end
of rnd—42 sts rem; piece should measure
about 14" from CO.
Cable rnd: *K2, 2/2LC (see Stitch Guide);
rep from * to end of rnd. Work even in St
st until piece measures 19" from CO. BO
all sts, leaving last st on the right needle.
Pick up and knit 1 st under the fi rst BO st
of the rnd. BO rem st and pull tail through
the last st on the right needle. Cut yarn,
leaving a long tail.
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends. Felting: Place hat
in a lingerie bag and, using the lowest
water setting, wash with mild wool-safe
detergent and a pair of jeans (for added
agitation) in hot water and rinse in cold
water. Run through cycle, checking regu-
larly, until hat reaches desired size. Turn
hat inside out and try on to check fit. You
can stretch the piece while it is still wet to
adjust the size if necessary. Air-dry.
Teri Barr has taught knitting for over thirty
years.
Project Photos: Joe Hancock
72 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_060-079_HATS.indd 72
marker is already in place—12 sts.
Rnd 2: Knit.
Rnd 3: Inc 6 sts as foll: *K2, M1, slip marker
(sl m); rep from * to end of rnd—18 sts.
Rnd 4: Knit.
Cont to inc 6 sts every other rnd in this
manner, working 1 more st before the M1 in
each subsequent inc rnd, until hat measures
EARFLAP
HATS
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size About 18–19 (20–22, 23)"
head circumference. To fit a baby (child or
woman, man). Shown in size 22" in Sirdar
Peru, 19" in Black Forest Naturwolle, and 23"
in Nashua Handknits Wooly Stripes.
Yarn Sirdar Peru (50% wool, 40% acrylic,
10% alpaca, 98 yd [90 m]/50 g; Bulky #5
Bulky): #307 damson, 2 balls; distributed by
Knitting Fever.
Black Forest Naturwolle (100% wool; 110 yd
[100 m]/100 g; Bulky #6 Super Bulky): #303
mango, 2 balls; distributed by Muench Yarns.
Nashua Handknits Wooly Stripes (100%
wool, 88 yd [80 m]/50 g; Aran #4 Medium):
#WS0009 faded blues, 3 balls; distributed by
Westminster Fibers.
Needles Any appropriate size for the yarn
chosen: set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn)
and 16" circular (cir).
Notions Markers (m); waste yarn; safety
pins or removable markers; stitch holder;
tapestry needle; pom-pom maker (optional).
Gauge Any gauge that produces pleasing
St st fabric with your chosen yarn and
needles.
NOTES
• Tostitches.
try hat on, thread waste yarn through
Return stitches to the needle(s)
to continue knitting.
CROWN
CO 6 sts. Divide sts onto 3 dpn so that there
are 2 sts on each needle. Place marker (pm)
and join for working in the rnd, being careful desired circumference—about 18–19 (20–22,
not to twist sts; rnd begins at the center back. 23)". You may add color or texture patterns
Knit 1 rnd. in the next section, if desired. Change to cir
Rnd 1: Inc 6 sts as foll: *K1, M1 (see Glos- needle and cont working even in rnds (do
sary), pm; rep from * to end of rnd, omitting not inc) until piece measures 8" from CO, or
placing marker after the last rep; end-of-rnd about 1" less than total desired depth.
10/16/09 3:40:15 PM
10162009154444
 BRIM
*Purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd; rep from * until brim
measures 1", ending with a knit rnd, and plac-
ing m in the middle of the last rnd, directly
opposite the end-of-rnd m, to indicate center
front. Mark placement of earflaps: Earfl ap
width is a personal choice; it can range for 3"
for a baby to 5" or more for an adult. Transfer
sts to waste yarn. Try hat on with end-of-rnd
m at the back. Use safety pins or remov-
able markers to indicate where you would
like each earfl ap to begin and end. Take the
hat off and fine-tune the positions of the
earfl aps so that both earfl aps have the same
even number of sts, and so that the edges
of the earfl aps are the same distance from
center front and back markers. Earfl aps can
be closer together at the back of the head to
leave a wider opening between them for the
face. Next rnd: BO purlwise to marked sts
of first earfl ap, purl earfl ap sts, BO purlwise
to marked sts of second earfl ap, purl earfl ap
sts, BO purlwise to end of rnd—2 groups of
earfl ap sts rem. Place sts for one earfl ap on a
holder.
EARFLAPS (Make 2)
With RS facing, join yarn to earflap sts, ready
to work a RS row. Work garter st back and
forth in rows (knit all sts every row) until
piece measures 1". Dec row: (RS) K2, ssk,
work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—2 sts dec’d. Knit
LARKSPUR HAT
Kara Gott
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size 20" circumference and 8" high
from brim to top, after blocking.
Yarn Nashua Handknits Julia (50% Rnds 2–4: Knit, slipping markers every
wool, 25% kid mohair, 25% alpaca; 93 yd rnd.
[84 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #4936 Rnd 5: Purl.
blue thyme, 2 skeins. Yarn distributed by Rnds 6–8: *K2, p2; rep from * to end of
Westminster Fibers. rnd.
Needles Size 5 (3.75 mm): 16" circular (cir) Rnd 9: Purl.
and set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust Next rnd: Work Row 1 of Zigzag chart
needle size if necessary to obtain the correct (rep should fit twice between each set of
gauge. markers). Work Rows 1–20 of chart a total
Notions Stitch holder; cable needle (cn); of 2 times. Shape crown: Cont in charted
tapestry needle.
Gauge 5½ sts and 7 rows = 1" in St st (see
Notes on hat gauge).
Zigzag
NOTES
• After blocking hat, the bottom half will
“grow” slightly and the stitches will
19

17
1 (WS) row even. Rep the last 2 rows as neces- become slightly larger, changing the
sary until 6 sts rem, ending with a WS row. gauge to about 4½ stitches per inch. Be 15
Next row: (RS) K2, k2tog, k2—5 sts rem. sure to check gauge while hat is being
13
With WS facing, BO all sts. worked, to match the 5½ sts per inch
before blocking. 11
FINISHING
9
Weave in loose ends. Anything beyond that HAT
is up to you—add colorful braids, tassels, With cir needle, CO 96 sts. Join for work- 7
pom-poms, or embroidery to the earfl aps ing in the rnd, being careful not to twist
5
and/or crown. For more variations, work the sts.
straight section of the hat in a fancy stitch or Rnd 1: *K32, pm; rep from * to end of rnd. 3
color pattern, or two! Use your imagination
1
for infinite possibilities.

Project Photos: Carol Kaplan in the rnd: knit every rnd

in rows: k on RS; p on WS

pattern repeat

2/1 RC: sl 1 st onto cn and hold in back, k2, k1 from cn

2/1 LC: sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in front, k1, k2 from cn

Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 73

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10162009154444
 patt and, changing to dpn when necessary,
dec as foll:
Rnd 1: Work in patt.
Even-Numbered Rnds 2–12: Work in
patt.
Rnds 3 and 5: *K2tog, work in patt to 2
sts before m, ssk; rep from * to end—6 sts
dec’d.
Rnd 7: *Slip 2 sts to cn, hold in back, k2,
k2tog from cn, work in patt to 2 sts before
m, ssk; rep from * to end—6 sts dec’d.
Rnds 9, 11, 13, 14, and 15: *K3tog, work
in patt to 3 sts before m, sssk (see Glos-
sary); rep from * to end—12 sts dec’d.
Rnd 16: Work as Rnd 3—12 sts rem.
Discontinue patt. Arrange sts so there are
4 on each dpn. With set of 4 sts on first
dpn (Needle 1), *work a 7½" I-cord. Pick
up and knit 1 st in the space before next
needle—5 sts on Needle 1. With spare
dpn, pass the second st from needle tip
over first—1 st BO. Cont to BO in this
manner until 1 st rem on Needle 1—one
loop made. Knit 1 st from next dpn (Nee-
dle 2)—2 sts on Needle 1. With spare dpn,
slip the second st over the fi rst—1 st rem
Yarn Reynolds Soft Sea Wool (100% wool;
162 yd [148 m]/50 g; Sportweight #2 Fine):
#853 orange (MC) and #969 red (CC), 1 ball
each. Yarn distributed by JCA.
Needles Lining and brim—size 2
(2.75 mm): set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn)
and 16" circular (cir). Lace outer layer—size 4
(3.5 mm): set of 4 or 5 dpn and 16" cir. Adjust
PEEK-A-BOO needle size if necessary to obtain the correct
CLOCHE gauge.
Mona Schmidt Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle.
Gauge 13 sts and 23 rnds = 2" in St st on
Skill Level Intermediate smaller needles worked in the round, after
blocking.
Finished Size About 19½" head circumfer-
ence and 8¼" tall, after blocking. Will stretch
to fit up to 23" head circumference.
Lace
45 knit
43 purl
41 yo
39
k2tog

on Needle 1. Slip rem st back to Needle 37

ssk
2—4 sts on Needle 2. Rep from * for 35
Needles 2 and 3, ending when third loop k3tog
is made. Break yarn and draw through last 33
st to BO. Tie 2 loops tog, then tie the third 31
sssk (see Stitch Guide)

loop creating a knot on top of hat.

29 no stitch

FINISHING 27 pattern repeat

With WS facing, place a cloth over pieces
and carefully block with a steam iron. Pin 25

down edges of hat and leave to dry over- 23 Diagonal Rib

night. With yarn threaded on a tapestry
needle, weave in loose ends. 21 21

19 19
Kara Gott is a knitwear designer and
freelance illustrator living and knitting in 17 17
St. Petersburg, Florida.
15 15

Project Photos: Carol Kaplan 13 13

11 11

9 9

7 7

5 5

3 3

1 1

74 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com

KA_060-079_HATS.indd 74 10/16/09 3:40:18 PM

10162009154444
 Stitch Guide
Knit into Back, Purl into Front Increase
(k1b-p1f inc): Knit into the back of next st,
then purl into the front of same st, and slip st
from needle—1 st inc’d; 2 sts made from 1 st.
Sssk: Slip 3 sts individually kwise, insert left
needle tip into the fronts of these 3 sts, and
use the right needle to knit them tog through
their back loops.
NOTES
• The hat is worked in the round beginning
at the top of the crown for the stockinette
lining and worked downward to the knit-
and-purl textured brim. The lace outer
layer is worked upward from the textured
brim to the top of the crown.
• When working the brim and lace outer
layer, the wrong (purl) side of the lining
end—24 sts; 8 sts on each needle.
Rnd 7: *K3, k1b-p1f inc; rep from * to
end—30 sts; 10 sts on each needle.
Rnd 9: *K4, k1b-p1f inc; rep from * to
end—36 sts; 12 sts on each needle.
Rnd 11: *K5, k1b-p1f inc; rep from * to
end—42 sts; 14 sts on each needle.
Odd-Numbered Rnds 13–39: Cont in this
manner, working 1 more st before the inc in
every odd-numbered rnd until Rnd 39 has
been completed and changing to smaller cir
when there are too many sts to fit on the
dpn—126 sts.
Rnd 40: Knit.
Change to smaller cir needle if you have not
already done so. Work even in St st until piece
measures 4" from last inc rnd (about 45 rnds
St st), and about 7½" from beg. Cut orange
yarn, leaving an 8" tail.
8" tail. Thread tail on tapestry needle, draw
through rem sts drawstring-fashion, pull
tight to close top of crown. Tuck lining in-
side hat so St st side of lining shows through
the openwork lace patt. Use tail from outer
lace layer to stitch the center of both crowns
tog and fasten off on WS of hat.
FINISHING
Weave loose ends. Block to measurements.
Mona Schmidt lives in Montreal, Quebec,
and is the associate creative director of
JCA Inc. Visit her blog www.knitstricken
.blogspot.com.
This project was excerpted from Lace Style
(Interweave, 2007).
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan

will be on the outside of the work. Th is BRIM

allows the right (knit) side of the lining
to show through the lace fabric when the
stockinette lining is tucked inside the
finished hat.
• Some rounds of the lace pattern have
yarnovers at the beginning and end of
the round. For these rounds, you may
find it helpful to make the fi nal yarnover
and then immediately work the first
stitch of the next rnd (the yarnover from
the beginning of the round), in order to
avoid accidentally dropping one of the
yarnovers.
• Pay close attention to any double yarn-
overs in the lace pattern to make sure that
you work each double yarnover as p1, k1
on the following even-numbered round as
shown on chart and do not accidentally
drop one of the yarnover loops.
LINING
With orange and smaller dpn, CO 6 sts. Arrange
sts evenly on 3 dpn (2 sts each needle) place
marker (pm), and join for working in the rnd,
being careful not to twist sts. Knit 1 rnd.
Rnd 1: *K1b-p1f inc (see Stitch Guide); rep
from * to end of rnd—12 sts; 4 sts on each
needle.
Even-Numbered Rnds 2–38: Knit.
Rnd 3: *K1; k1b-p1f inc; rep from * to
end—18 sts; 6 sts on each needle.
Rnd 5: *K2, k1b-p1f inc; rep from * to
Push the lining through the center of the
needle so the purl side of the lining is on the
outside of the rnd (see Notes). With WS of
lining facing you, join red yarn. Next rnd:
(RS of brim; WS of lining) K19, k2tog; rep
from * to end—120 sts. Work Rnds 1–21 of
Diagonal Rib chart—brim measures about
1½", and piece measures about 9" from CO.
Change to larger cir needle and knit 1 rnd.
With smaller cir needle and knit side of lining
facing, slip the smaller needle into each st of
first red yarn rnd to pick up 120 sts; these sts TWEED
are just picked up and placed on the needle
BERET
without working them, not picked up and
knit. Fold brim in half along the purled fold K r i s t e n Te n D y k e
line from Rnd 11 of chart to bring the two
needles tog with RS of brim facing outward, Skill Level Easy
and needle with picked-up lining sts in back
of needle with live brim sts. Holding both Finished Size 19 (22½)" head circumfer-
needles tog in the left hand, *k2tog to join ence. Beret shown measures 19".
1 brim st tog with 1 lining st; rep from * to Yarn Tahki Donegal Tweed (100% wool;
end—still 120 sts. 183 yd [167 m]/100 g; Worsted #4 Me-
dium): #863 dark red, 1 (2) skein(s).
LACE OUTER LAYER Needles Size 6 (4 mm): set of 5 double-
Next rnd: *K2, k2tog; rep from * to end of pointed (dpn) and 16" circular (cir). Adjust
rnd—90 sts rem. Change to Lace chart, and needle size if necessary to obtain the
rep Rnds 1–24 of chart 2 times, then work correct gauge.
Rnds 25–45 once, changing to larger dpn Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle.
when there are too few sts to fit around the Gauge 17 sts and 27 rows = 4" in St st;
cir needle—10 sts rem; 69 lace patt rnds 19 sts and 27 rows = 4" in 1×1 rib, slightly
completed; piece measures about 8¼" from stretched.
purled fold line of brim. Cut yarn, leaving an

Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 75

KA_060-079_HATS.indd 75 10/16/09 3:40:19 PM

10162009154445

Stitch Guide
1×1 Rib: (worked in rows; multiple of 2
sts + 1)
Row 1: K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end.
Row 2: Work sts as they appear (knit the
knits sts, purl the purl sts).
Rep Row 2 for pattern.
1×1 Rib: (worked in the rnd; multiple of
2 sts)
Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from * around.
Rep Rnd 1 for pattern.
HAT
With dpn, CO 8 sts. Divide sts on 3 dpn,
place marker (pm), and join for working
in the rnd, being careful not to twists sts.
Knit 1 rnd and pm between each st. Inc
rnd: *M1 (see Glossary), knit to next m,
slip m; rep from * around—16 sts. Knit
1 rnd. Rep the shaping of the last 2 rnds
(knitting all new sts between m) 18 (22)
more times, changing to cir needle when
possible—160 (192) sts total; 20 (24) sts
between each m. Work in rib patt as foll:
Rnd 1: *K9 (11), p1, k10 (12), sl m; rep
from * around.
76 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_060-079_HATS.indd 76
Rnd 2: *K7 (9), p1, work 4 sts in 1×1 rib
(see Stitch Guide), k8 (10), sl m; rep from *
around.
Rnd 3: *K5 (7), p1, work 8 sts in rib; k6 (8),
sl m; rep from * around.
Rnd 4: *K3 (5), p1, work 12 sts in rib; k4 (6),
sl m; rep from * around.
Rnd 5: *K1 (3), p1, work 16 sts in rib; k2 (4),
sl m; rep from * around.
Rnd 6: *K0 (1), p0 (1) work 19 (20) sts in rib;
k1 (2), sl m; rep from * around.
Rnd 7: Work 1 rnd even in rib.
Rnd 8 (dec rnd): *Work to fi rst purl st,
k2tog, work in rib patt to last purl st before
m, k2tog, work in patt to m (if necessary for
your size), sl m; rep from * around—16 sts
dec’d.
Rep Rnd 8 four (five) more times—80 (96)
sts rem. Remove m, leaving the beg-of-rnd
m. Work 6 rnds even in St st (knit every rnd).
BO all sts loosely.
TWIST
With dpn, CO 3 sts. Work back and forth in
rows on dpn in 1×1 rib until piece measures
2" from CO. BO all sts in rib.
FINISHING
Pull center of twist through small opening at
top of hat and sew to WS, closing hole at top
of hat at the same time. With yarn threaded
on a tapestry needle, weave in loose ends.
Block if desired.
Kristen TenDyke lives in Massachusetts, where a
jaunty beret has ubiquitous appeal. See more
of her designs at www.kristentendyke.com.
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
10162009154445
BRIOCHE
HELMET HAT
Kelly Bridges
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size 16 (18, 18)" circumference
and 6 (6½, 7)" long from top to base of
earfl ap. To fit 6–12 months (1–2 years, 2–4
years). Blue hat shown in size small; rose hat
shown in size medium.
Yarn Frog Tree Yarns Alpaca Sport Weight
(100% alpaca; 130 yd [119 m]/50 g; Sport-
weight #2 Fine): 1 ball each of MC and CC.
Hats shown in #31 blue (MC) with #30 pale
blue (CC), and #205 rose (MC) with #95 pink
(CC). Yarn distributed by T&C Imports.
Needles Size 6 (4 mm): 16" circular (cir)
and set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust
needle size if necessary to obtain the correct
gauge.
Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle.
Gauge 14 sts and 42 rnds = 4" in brioche
patt worked in the rnd with yarn doubled,
and with fabric relaxed and unblocked. As
an aid to counting the sts and rows/rnds
when checking gauge in brioche stitch,
count each column of knit sts as 2 sts, and
count each knit st in the column as 2 rows/
rnds.
Stitch Guide
Brioche Stitch Worked Back and Forth
in Rows: (multiple of 2 sts)
Set-up row: *Yo, sl 1 as if to purl (pwise)
with yarn in back (wyb), k1; rep from *.
All rows: *Yo, sl 1 the worked st of the pre-
vious rnd pwise wyb, knit the yo and slipped
st of previous rnd tog; rep from *.
Rep this row for pattern; do not rep the
set-up row.
Brioche Stitch Worked in the Round:
(multiple of 2 sts)
10/16/09 3:40:19 PM
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KA_077_IWP KD DVD AD.indd 77 10/20/09 1:13:10 PM

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 Rnd 1: *Yo, sl 1 the worked st of the previ-
ous row/rnd pwise wyb, knit the yo and
slipped st of previous rnd tog; rep from *.
Rnd 2: *Purl the yo and slipped st of
previous rnd tog, yo, sl 1 st worked on the
previous rnd pwise wyb, bring yarn to front
between needles in position to purl; rep
from *.
Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for pattern.
NOTES
• Thbacke earfl aps are worked separately
and forth in short rows after the
initial cast on and set-up row. When
the earfl aps have been completed, work
continues in the round to the end.
• Because this project is worked with
two strands of yarn held together, take
particular care to insert the needle into
both strands and not accidentally split
the doubled working strand into two
separate stitches.
• When counting stitches, count each
slipped stitch and its companion
yarnover as one stitch. In other words,
do not count the yarnovers as stitches in
themselves.
• Each yarnover appears to “straddle”
its companion stitch, which should
make it easy to identify them as a pair
to be worked together on the next row
or round. If you are having difficulty
knitting or purling two stitches together,
make sure that you are trying to work
the yarnover together with the correct
stitch. Spreading the stitches out along
78 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_060-079_HATS.indd 78
the needle can help align the yarnovers
with their respective mates.
• Make sure that you don’t accidentally
drop any yarnovers that occur at the end
of a needle.
• Because the slipped-stitch-yarnover pairs
alternate positions from round to round,
when one round ends with a slipped-
stitch-yarnover pair, the following round
will begin with a slipped-stitch-yarnover
pair. The result is that there will be two
slipped-stitch-yarnover pairs next to
each other at the end-of-round marker.
Be sure to bring the yarn all the way
around the needle and to the front of the
work for the fi rst yarnover so that each
slipped stitch will have its own yarnover.
• When working a k3tog decrease, you will
knit together five actual loops on the
needle: two knit stitches with their com-
panion yarnovers, and the purled stitch
between the knit stitch/yarnover pairs.
• The earfl aps are set slightly toward the
back of the hat, with less distance be-
tween them at the nape of the neck than
at the front of the forehead; they are not
exactly centered on each side of the hat.
HAT
With 2 strands of MC held tog and cir
needle, CO 56 (64, 64) sts. Do not join into
a rnd. Work set-up row of brioche st worked
back and forth in rows (see Stitch Guide)—
still 56 (64, 64) sts; will appear as 84 (96,
96) loops on the needle because of the
yarnovers, but counts as 56 (64, 64) sts (see
Notes). Shape earfl aps using short-rows in
brioche stitch worked back and forth in rows
(see Stitch Guide) as foll:
Row 1: Work 4 sts in patt, place marker
(pm), work 8 (10, 10) sts in patt, turn.
Row 2: Work 4 sts in patt, turn.
Row 3: Work 6 sts in patt, turn.
Rows 4, 5, and 6: Work 8 sts in patt, turn.
Row 7: Work 10 sts in patt, turn.
Rows 8, 9, and 10: Work 12 sts in patt,
turn.
Row 11: Work 14 sts in patt, turn. Cont for
your size as foll:
Size small:
Row 12: Work 14 sts in patt, turn; you will
be at the m.
Row 13: Remove m, work 34 sts in patt,
10162009154445
pm, work 8 sts in patt, turn—fi rst earfl ap
completed.
Rep Rows 2–12 for second earfl ap. At end
of Row 12, turn; you will be at the m. Re-
move m, work 8 sts in patt; you will have
worked across all sts of the set-up row at
least once—14 rows/rnds completed at
deepest point of earfl ap, counted as 7 sts
in a knit column on RS. Skip to All sizes
below.
Sizes medium and large:
Rows 12, 13, and 14: Work 16 sts in
patt, turn; you will be at the m after
completing Row 14.
Row 15: Remove m, work 40 sts in patt,
pm, work 10 sts in patt, turn—fi rst
earfl ap completed.
Rep Rows 2–14 for second earfl ap. At end
of Row 14, turn; you will be at the m. Re-
move m, work 8 sts in patt; you will have
worked across all sts of the set-up row at
least once—16 rows/rnds completed at
deepest point of earfl ap, counted as 8 sts
in a knit column on RS.
All sizes: Pm with RS facing, and join for
working in the rnd, being careful not to
twist sts. Change to brioche st in the rnd,
and cont in established patt. Work even
until piece measures 1¼ (1½, 1½)" from
CO edge at shallowest point, or about 2¼
(2½, 2½)" from bottom of earfl aps. Break
off 1 strand of MC and join 1 strand of
CC; use 1 strand of each color held tog for
rem of hat. Cont even in patt until piece
measures 2¼ (2½, 3)" (from beg of color
change, ending with Rnd 2 of patt. Dec
for crown: Cont as foll, changing to dpn
when necessary:
Dec Rnd 1: *[Yo, sl 1 pwise wyb, knit yo
and sl st tog] 2 times, yo, sl 1 pwise wyb,
k3tog (see Notes); rep from * 7 (8, 8) times
total—42 (48, 48) sts rem. Work 3 rnds
even in patt.
Dec Rnd 2: *Yo, sl 1 pwise wyb, knit yo
and sl st tog, yo, sl 1 pwise wyb, k3tog;
rep from * 7 (8, 8) times total—28 (32,
32) sts rem. Work 3 rnds even in patt.
Dec Rnd 3: *Yo, sl 1 pwise wyb, k3tog;
rep from * 7 (8, 8) times total—14 (16, 16)
sts rem. Work 3 rnds even in patt.
Dec Rnd 4: [K2tog] 7 (8, 8) times, work-
ing all knit sts tog with their yo’s—
7 (8, 8) sts rem.
10/16/09 3:40:25 PM
 St st. Exact gauge is not critical for this
FINISHING project.
Cut yarn, leaving a 10" tail. Draw tail HEADBAND
through rem sts, pull tight, and fasten With dpn, CO 3 sts. I-cord tie: *K3, with
off. Weave in loose ends. Block lightly to RS facing slide sts to opposite end of needle,
measurements. bring yarn around behind work into position
to work another RS row; rep from * until I-
Kelly Bridges lives in Gilmanton Iron cord measures 12" long. Lace section: Work
Works, New Hampshire, and is manager Rows 1–16 of Headband chart once—19 sts
of the Elegant Ewe in Concord, New MOLLY’S after completing Row 15. Rep Rows 17–20
Hampshire.
HEADBAND only until piece measures about 13" from
beg of chart patt, or 2" less than desired
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
Pam Allen length for lace section, ending with Row 20
of chart. Work Rows 21–36 of chart once—3
Skill Level Easy sts; piece measures about 15" from beg of
chart patt. Work I-cord tie on rem 3 sts
Finished Size 3½" wide and 15" long, not until second tie measures 12" from end of
including I-cord ties. chart patt. BO all sts. Weave in ends. Block

LACE Yarn Frog Tree Yarns Alpaca Sport Weight

(100% alpaca; 130 yd [119 m]/50 g; Sport-
headband to open up lace pattern.

TIPS weight #2 Fine): #96 light blue, 1 ball. Yarn

distributed by T&C Imports.
Pam Allen is the creative director of Classic
Elite Yarns. She is the former editor of Inter-
weave Knits, author of Knitting for Dummies
Needles Size 6 (4 mm): set of 2 double-
• Allknityoulaceneed to know to
is how to make
pointed (dpn). and Scarf Style, and coauthor of Wrap Style
and Lace Style.
Notions Tapestry needle.
yarnovers and decreases
Gauge About 21 sts and 32 rows = 4" in
and how to count stitches. Project Photos: Chris Hartlove

• Count stitches after every

pattern row to make sure Cable
you haven’t inadvertently
added or missed a yarnover 35
or decrease. 33

• Toedgeensure that the cast-on

will stretch along the
31

29
lace pattern, choose a very
27 k on RS; p on WS
elastic cast-on such as the
old Norwegian or knitted 25
p on RS; k on WS
method. 23

• Don’t knit lace patterns

when you’re tired or have
21

19
yo

k2tog
lots of distractions or poor
17
light. It’s all too easy to
make errors. 15 ssk

• Use stitch markers to

separate individual pattern 11
13
k3tog

repeats, particularly if sl 1 st kwise, k2tog,

9 pass slipped st over
you’re working a compli-
7
cated pattern.
sl 2 sts as if to k2tog,
5 k1, pass 2 slipped sts over
3
pattern repeat
1

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 Get these patterns and more, on the
Interweave Knits 2005 Collection CD, for only $19.99!

A Year of Knitting
Patterns for only $19.99!
Interweave Knits 2005 Collection CD
includes all four issues of Interweave Knits exactly as they were
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The full-color electronic versions of Interweave Knits include

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informative articles, designer profiles, and all the tips and
at your
techniques that Interweave Knits is known for.
local yarn shop or
InterweaveStore.com The 2005 season showcases useful knitting tutorials, book reviews and excerpts, as
well as tons of patterns for sweaters, skirts, socks, shawls, and more!

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80 Interweave Knits 2006 and 2007 CDs

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 Getting Started
with
Article adapted from Getting Started
Knitting Socks by Ann Budd ($18.95,
Interweave). Above: Sweetheart Socks by
Chrissy Gardiner. Both available from your
favorite yarn shop, book store, or online at
interweavestore.com.
KA_081-087_GetStScks.indd 81
Socks
In Western countries, socks are typically
worked from the leg down to the toe (in many
Eastern countries, they’re worked in the oppo-
site direction). The size is determined by the
circumference of the widest part of the foot.
For your fi rst pair of socks, let’s follow the
conventional top-down construction technique.
For this example, we’ll use a set of four double-
pointed needles. We’ll start by casting on
stitches for the cuff, work the cuff and leg in
rounds to the heel, work the heel fl ap in rows,
shape the heel with short-rows, pick up stitches
for the gussets, then decrease the gussets while
working in rounds to the toe. We’ll shape the
toe along the side in a typical wedge style, and
fi nally, fi nish off the tip with a few Kitchener
stitches. The sock in the photograph (page 82)
is a woman’s medium (8" foot circumference)
worked with worsted-weight yarn on size 7 (4.5
mm) needles.
Before you can begin, you need to know your
gauge. Just like you’ve been instructed that if
10192009093923
A N N B U D D
you want a sweater to fit, you need to be sure
that your gauge matches the one that’s called for
in the pattern if you want your socks to fit.
Casting On
For our example here, we’ll make a woman’s
medium sock with worsted-weight yarn at a
gauge of 5 stitches to the inch on size 7 (4.5 mm)
needles. To begin, you’ll need to get the appro-
priate number of stitches onto your needles—40
in our case. Regardless of your needle choice,
the first step—casting on—is the same. There
are a number of cast-on methods, but for socks
you’ll want to choose one that is both sturdy
and flexible. My two favorite methods are the
long-tail (also called the Continental; see Glos-
sary) and the old Norwegian cast-on (see box,
page 95). Both methods involve the interlacing
of two yarn ends, which adds stability and
strength. Both methods have sufficient give to
allow the sock to stretch over your heel.
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 81
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 Step 1: Using the method of your choice, cast on
the recommended number of stitches onto a
single needle.
Step 2: Distribute the stitches as evenly as pos-
sible among three double-pointed needles.
Join for Working in the Round
To begin working in rounds, you’ll need to
join the fi rst cast-on stitch with the last cast-
on stitch to form a ring (page 83).
Most patterns will instruct you to place a
marker on the needle when you join for work-
ing rounds. This is so you can keep track of
where one round ends and the next one begins,
and it is especially helpful if you’re working a
color or texture pattern. To prevent the marker
from falling off the needle if you’re using
double-pointed or two circular needles, slip
the marker on the needle between the second-
to-last and last stitches of the round.
When you join the cast-on stitches for
working in rounds, you must be careful not to
let the stitches twist or spiral around the nee-
dles. Take a minute to ensure that the stitches
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are all aligned the same way on the needles
with the straight edge of the cast-on at the bot-
tom of every needle. If the straight edge wraps
around one of the needles, the stitches are said
to be twisted and you’ll end up knitting a helix.
If this happens, the only solution is to rip out
all of the stitches and begin again.
Cuff
To prevent the
edge from curling,
the first inch (or
more) of a sock is
worked in a non-
curling stitch pat- Double rib
tern, most com-
monly a rib. Not only do ribs lie fl at, they also
have a tendency to draw in (allowing for stretch),
which helps to give a sock a snug fit. The draw-in
results from the juxtaposition of knit and purl
stitches. The more boundaries there are between
knit and purl stitches, the greater the draw-in.
In our sock, we’ll work the cuff in double rib
(k2, p2) for 2".
Socks instructions follow a
simple formula of percentages
(right)—100% of the stitches
are worked for the leg, 50% are
worked for the heel, 100% are
worked for the foot. The toe is
decreased gradually to 50%,
then rapidly to about 20%. This
sock (left) was knitted with
worsted-weight yarn at a gauge
of 5 stitches to the inch on size
7 needles.
50%
20%
10192009093924
Leg
Continue working even in stockinette stitch
(knit every stitch of every round) until the leg
measures the desired length from the cast-on
row to the beginning of the heel.
Heel Flap
The heel fl ap is the extra bit of knitting
that extends along the back of the heel from
the ankle bone to the base of the foot. For
our sock, the heel fl ap is worked back and
forth in rows on half of the total number of
stitches. Rearrange the stitches, if necessary,
so that all of the heel stitches are on one
needle (the other half of the stitches will be
worked later for the instep). Work the heel
stitches back and forth in rows as follows:
Row 1: (RS) *Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in back
(wyb), k1; rep from *.
Row 2: (WS) Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in front
(wyf), purl to end.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for the specified number
of rows, ending with a wrongside row so that
the next row will be a right-side row. For our
100%
50% 50%
100%
10/19/09 9:38:22 AM
 example, we’ll work the heel fl ap for a total of
20 rows—there will be 10 elongated stitches
in the main fabric of the fl ap and 10 chain sel-
vedge stitches.
Heel Turn
You’re now ready to work the magical part
of a sock—the heel turn. The instructions are
basically the same, no matter what size sock
you’re knitting. The heel is shaped with short-
rows, which are nothing more than partial
(“short”) rows worked on just the center
stitches. This causes the center area to have
more rows of knitting, making it longer than
the edges, which causes that magical cup
shape. Work the short-rows as follows:
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
KA_081-087_GetStScks.indd 83
Row 1: (RS) Knit to 2 stitches beyond the the gap), k1 (Figure 3).
center of the heel stitches (in our example, we Row 4: (WS) Sl 1 purlwise w yf, purl to 1
have 20 heel stitches, so we’ll knit across 12 stitch before the gap formed on the previous
of them), ssk (see Glossary), k1 (Figure 1). row (in our example, we’ll purl 7 stitches),
Row 2: (WS) Sl 1 purlwise wyf, p5, p2tog, p1 p2tog (1 stitch from each side of the gap), p1
(Figure 2). (Figure 4, page 84).
Row 3: (RS) Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in back Rows 5–8: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 two more
(wyb), knit to 1 stitch before the gap formed times—12 heel stitches will remain on the
on the previous row (in our example, we’ll needle (Figure 5).
knit 6 stitches), ssk (1 stitch from each side of
Ways to Join for Working in Rounds
Simple Join
Just like the name implies, this method
is simple. Just start knitting, beginning
with the first cast-on stitch. There will
be a small gap at the join, but this can
be effectively tidied up when the cast-on
tail is woven in later.
Crossover Join
Step 1: Slip the first cast-on stitch (it will Figure 1
be on the left needle tip) onto the right
needle (Figure 1).
Step 2: With the left needle, pick up the
last cast-on stitch (now the second stitch
on the right needle), bring it up over the top of Figure 2
the previously moved stitch (Figure 2), and
place it on the left needle tip (Figure 3).
The first and last stitches have exchanged
places and the last stitch cast on surrounds
the first.
Figure 3
Two-End Join
Work the first two or three stitches of the
round with both ends of yarn (the one
attached to the ball and the tail end) that
were used for the cast-on. After you have
worked several stitches, drop the tail end
and continue on with the yarn attached
to the ball. On the next round, remember
that the joining stitches were worked with
a double strand of yarn and be sure to work
the two strands together as though they were
a single stitch.
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 83
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10192009093924
 Figure 4 Figure 6 Figure 8

Figure 5 Figure 7 Figure 9

Gussets stitches in our case). stitches), 20 instep stitches on Needle 2, and

The next step is to connect the heel with Step 3: With another new needle (Needle 3), 16 stitches on Needle 3 (10 picked-up gusset
the instep so that you can work the foot in pick up and knit 1 stitch in each chain stitch stitches plus 6 heel stitches).
rounds to the tip of the toe. To form the gus- along the other selvedge edge of the heel flap. We are now ready to work in rounds; the
sets, you’ll create new stitches along the sides In our case, this will be 10 stitches (Figure 11). round now begins at the center of the heel
of the heel flap that will connect the newly With the same needle, knit the first 6 heel stitches.
turned heel stitches with the waiting instep stitches from Needle 1 again (Figure 12). There
stitches. This is called “pick up and knit.” will be 52 stitches total—16 stitches on Needle Decrease Gusset Stitches
1 (6 heel stitches plus 10 picked-up gusset It’s now time to shape the gussets. We will
Pick Up and Knit Gusset Stitches
Working from right to left, insert a needle
tip under the edge stitch, wrap the yarn around
the needle, then pull the needle (and wrapped
loop) through to the right side (see box at
Pick Up a Single Loop
right). Because you slipped the fi rst stitch of For very little bulk along the pick-up edge, pick up gusset stitches through the
every row while working the heel flap, the edge front half of the edge stitches. Insert the knitting needle under the front half
stitches are large and easy to recognize. of the selvedge stitch (Figure 1), wrap the yarn around the needle as if to knit
(Figure 2), and bring the wrap through to create a new stitch on the needle.
Step 1: With the right side facing and working Repeat this for every chain edge stitch (Figure 3).
with the needle holding the heel stitches (Nee-
dle 1), pick up and knit the closest chain stitch
along the selvedge edge of the heel flap (Figures
6 and 7). Then pick up 1 stitch in each of the
following chain stitches to the end of the heel
flap (Figures 8 and 9). In our case, all 10 gusset
stitches have been picked up with Needle 1.
Step 2: With a new needle (Needle 2), knit Figure A Figure B Figure C
across all of the instep stitches (Figure 10; 20

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10192009093924
 Figure 10 Figure 13 Figure 17

Figure 11 Figure 14 Figure 18

Figure 15
Figure 12 Figure 19

decrease 1 gusset stitch on each side of the in-

step stitches every other row until we’re back
to our original number of stitches—40.
Round 1: On Needle 1, knit to the last 3 stitches
(Figure 13), knit the next 2 stitches together
(k2tog; Figure 14), then knit the last stitch on
Needle 1 (Figure 15). Knit across all the instep
stitches on Needle 2 (Figure 16). On Needle 3,
knit 1 stitch (Figure 17), slip the next 2 stitches
individually knitwise, then knit them together Figure 16 Figure 20
through their back loops (ssk; see Glossary;
Figure 18), then knit to the end of Needle 3
(Figure 19). This brings us to the end of the Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until 10 stitches remain diagonal stitch lines between the beginning of
round. We’ve decreased 1 stitch each on Needle each on Needle 1 and Needle 3. Because you the heel flap and the foot. When all gusset
1 and Needle 3, so 15 stitches remain on each didn’t decrease any instep stitches, there are stitches have been decreased, there will be the
heel needle; 50 stitches total. still 20 stitches on Needle 2; 40 stitches total. same number of stitches as were cast on to
Round 2: Knit all stitches on all needles. The gusset decreases will form pronounced begin the leg (Figure 20).

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10192009093924
 Figure 21
Figure 22
Figure 23
Foot
Now it’s just a matter of knitting around
and around until the foot is the desired length
to the beginning of the toe shaping. In our
case, we’ll knit until the piece measures 7½"
from the back of the heel, ending the round at
the center of the bottom of the foot.
Toe
There are many ways to shape the toe of a
sock. The toe we’ll work here is called a wedge
toe. That’s because it forms a wedge shape,
with the decreases all worked along the sides
of the foot.
Round 1: On Needle 1, knit to the last 3 stitches
(Figure 21), knit 2 stitches together (Figure 22),
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KA_081-087_GetStScks.indd 86
Figure 24
Figure 25
Figure 26
then knit the last stitch of the needle (Figure
23)—there are now 9 stitches on Needle 1. On
Needle 2, knit the fi rst stitch (Figure 24), ssk
(Figure 25), knit to the last 3 stitches (Figure
26), k2tog (Figure 27), knit the last stitch of
the needle ( Figure 28 )—there are now 18
stitches on Needle 2. On Needle 3, knit the
first stitch (Figure 29), ssk (Figure 30), knit to
the end of the needle (Figure 31).
Row 2: Knit all the stitches on all of the
needles.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until half of the
original number of stitches remain. In our
case that will be 20 stitches—5 stitches each
on Needle 1 and Needle 3; 10 stitches on
Needle 2. Then repeat Row 1 only (decrease
every round) until 8 stitches remain. There
10192009093925
Figure 27
Figure 28
Figure 29
will be 2 stitches each on Needle 1 and Needle
3 and 4 stitches on Needle 2.
You’re nearly done! All that’s left is to close
off the tip of the toe with the Kitchener stitch
(see Glossary).
When you fi nish the Kitchener stitch, in-
sert the needle into the inside of the sock and
weave in the tail on the wrong side.
Finishing
Weave in loose ends. The loose ends are
the tails of yarn left hanging at the beginning
of the cuff, tip of the toe, and possibly else-
where along the leg, heel, and foot when you
had to join a new ball of yarn. Thread the end
on a tapestry needle and work it into the
wrong side of the sock.
10/19/09 9:38:42 AM
 Close Holes at the Gussets
I’d lie if I said that my socks never had holes
or gaps at the beginning of the gusset. Over
time I’ve learned ways to minimize these, but
when they do show up, I simply turn the sock
inside out and use a piece of yarn to tidy up the
offending area. I pull on the enlarged stitch (or
stitches) to bring the extra yarn to the inside
of the sock (Figure 32), then use a separate
Figure 32
length of yarn threaded on a tapestry needle
Figure 30 to secure it in place (Figure 33), striving not to
distort the stitches on the right side of the
sock.

Blocking
Blocking is the final step. Adding moisture
to the knitting will even out the lines of stitches
and the fibers in the yarn.
Damp Method: My favorite method is to lay
the socks on a towel on a flat surface, spray
them with water, pat them into shape, and leave
them to air-dry.
Figure 31
Ann Budd is the author of The Knitter’s Figure 33
Handy Book series and co-author of many
of the Style series books from Interweave.
Her latest book is Knitted Gifts: Irresistible
Projects to Make and Give (Interweave, 2009).

How Much Yarn Will You Need?

The amount of yarn you need depends on the gauge and sock size. In general, the finer the yarn and the
bigger the sock, the more yarn you’ll need. If you plan to add a heavily textured pattern such as cables, you’ll
also need more yarn.

Gauge Child M Child L Adult S Adult M Adult L

(stitches/inch)
4 125 170 202 252 296 yards
115 156 185 231 271 meters
5 138 188 224 279 329 yards
126 172 205 255 301 meters
6 195 266 317 394 466 yards
179 243 290 361 426 meters
7 215 293 349 434 513 yards
197 268 319 397 469 meters
8 236 322 384 477 564 yards
216 294 351 437 516 meters

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10192009093940
 RIB AND CABLE SOCKS
by Nancy Bush
YARN Mountain Colors Bearfoot
Page 92

SIMPLE
SOCKS
Wearing a pair of handknitted socks is a comfort
known only by the wearer—and the knitter who
made them.

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 COWGIRL SLIPPER SOCKS
by Ann Budd
YARN Buffalo Gold #6
Page 94

BABY'S FIRST SOCK

by Ann Budd
YARN Dale of Norway Baby Ull
Page 93

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 CITRINE SOCKLETS (left)
by Marilyn Webster
YARN Alchemy Sanctuary
Page 95

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10192009094438
 INFANT'S FANCY SILK SOCK
by Nancy Bush
YARN Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock
Page 97

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RIB AND CABLE
SOCKS
Nancy Bush
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size 7½" foot circumference, 8"
long from cast-on edge to top of heel fl ap,
and 9½" long from back of heel to tip of
toe. To fit women’s U.S. shoe sizes 8 to 9.
Yarn Mountain Colors Bearfoot (60%
superwash wool, 25% mohair, 15% nylon;
350 yd [320 m]/100 g; Fingering #1 Super
Fine): wilderness, 1 skein.
Needles Size 1 (2.25 mm): set of 4
double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if
necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Marker (m); cable needle (cn);
tapestry needle.
Gauge 14 sts and 20 rnds = 2" in St st
worked in the rnd, before blocking.
LEG
With yarn doubled, CO 60 sts. Divide sts
evenly onto 3 needles (20 sts each needle),
place marker (pm), and join for working in
the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Cut
off one end of doubled yarn and continue
with single strand only. Cuff: *K4, p2, k2,
p2; rep from * for 30 rnds or until piece
measures 3" from beg. Leg: Work cable
and rib patt as foll:
Rnd 1: *Sl 2 sts onto cn and hold at front
of work, k2, k2 from cn, p2, k2, p2; rep
from * to end.
Rnds 2–8: Work ribbing as established.
Rep Rnds 1–8 five more times, then work
Rnd 1 once more—piece should measure
about 8" from beg.
HEEL
Set up for working heel sts on 1 needle
as foll: K2, M1 (see Glossary; this forms
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KA_088-097_SSocks.indd 92
the seam st), [k2, p2] 2 times, k4, p2, k1,
place rem sts onto next needle, turn; sl 1, k2,
p4, [k2, p2] 2 times, k1 (seam st), [p2, k2] 2
times, p4, k2, p1—31 heel sts. Divide rem 30
sts on 2 needles to be worked later for instep
(first and last sts of instep should be knit sts).
Work 31 heel sts back and forth in rows as
foll:
Row 1: (RS) Sl 1, p2, k4, [p2, k2] 2 times, p1
(seam st), [k2, p2] 2 times, k4, p2, k1.
Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, k2, p4, [k2, p2] 2 times,
k1, [p2, k2] 2 times, p4, k2, p1.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 fifteen times total, ending
with a WS row—30 heel fl ap rows total; 15
chain edge sts along each edge of fl ap.
Turn heel: Work short-rows as foll (yarn-
overs will form very tiny holes at each turn):
Row 1: (RS) *Sl 1, k4, yo, k2tog, k5, k2tog,
k1, p1 (seam st), k1, k2tog, k5, k2tog, turn.
Row 2: (WS) Yo, purl to seam st, k1 (seam
st), purl to 10 sts beyond seam st (purl yo of
previous row and count it as 1 purl st), turn.
Row 3: Yo, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k1, p1 (seam st),
k1, k2tog, k5, k2tog (yo of previous row and
next st), turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 four more times—18 sts
rem (including yo); decs will not be symmet-
rical mirror images on each side of seam st.
Row 4: (WS) Sl 1, purl to seam st, k1 (seam
st), purl to last 2 sts, p2tog—17 sts; 8 sts each
side of seam st.
Gussets: With RS facing, rejoin for working
in the rnd as foll:
Rnd 1: With Needle 1, k7 heel sts, k2tog,
k8 (16 heel sts), with same needle, pick up
and knit 15 sts along right side of heel fl ap;
with Needle 2, work across 30 instep sts in
established rib; with Needle 3, pick up and
knit 15 sts along left side of heel fl ap, then k8
sts from Needle 1 again—76 sts total: 23 sts
each on Needle 1 and Needle 3, 30 instep sts
on Needle 2. Rnd begins at center of heel.
Rnd 2: Needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog,
k1; Needle 2: work sts as they appear (knit
the knits and purl the purls); Needle 3: k1,
ssk, knit to end—74 sts rem: 22 sts each
on Needle 1 and Needle 3, 30 instep sts on
Needle 2.
Rnd 3: Work even as established.
Rnd 4: Needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1;
Needle 2: work even in patt; Needle 3: k1,
ssk, knit to end—2 sts dec’d.
Rep Rnds 3 and 4 six more times—60 sts
10192009094439
rem: 15 sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 3,
30 instep sts on Needle 2.
FOOT
Cont even in patt as established until foot
measures 6½" from back of heel, or about 3"
less than desired total length, ending after
Needle 3 (center of heel).
TOE
Adjust sts so that there are 20 sts on each
needle by placing the first 5 instep sts onto
Needle 1, and the last 5 instep sts onto
Needle 3.
Rnd 1: *K19, p1; rep from *.
Rnds 2–5: Knit.
Rnd 6: *P2tog, k15, p2tog, k1; rep from
*—54 sts rem.
Rnds 7–10: Knit.
Rnd 11: *K1, p2tog, k11, p2tog, k2; rep from
*—48 sts rem.
Rnds 12–15: Knit.
Rnd 16: *K2, p2tog, k7, p2tog, k3; rep from
*—42 sts rem.
Rnds 17–20: Knit.
Rnd 21: *K3, p2tog, k3, p2tog, k4; rep from
*—36 sts rem.
Rnds 22–25: Knit.
Rnd 26: *K4, p3tog, k5; rep from *—30 sts
rem.
Rnd 27: *K3, p3tog, k4; rep from *—24 sts
rem.
Rnd 28: *K2, p3tog, k3; rep from *—18 sts
rem.
Rnd 29: *K1, p3tog, k2; rep from *—12 sts
rem.
Rnd 30: *P3tog, k1; rep from *—6 sts rem.
10/19/09 9:41:24 AM
 FINISHING
Cut yarn, leaving a 12" tail. Th read tail on a
tapestry needle, draw through rem sts, and
pull up snugly to close end of toe. Weave in
loose ends. Block on sock blockers or under a
damp towel.
Nancy Bush is the author of many knitting
books, including the recent Knitted Lace of
Estonia (Interweave, 2008).
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
BABY’S FIRST
SOCK
Ann Budd
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size About 4" foot circumference,
4¼" long from top of leg to base of heel, and
4¼" long from back of heel to tip of toe.
Yarn Dale of Norway Baby Ull (100% super-
wash wool yarn; 191 yd [175 m]/50 g ball;
Fingering #1 Super Fine): #5226 lavender,
1 ball.
Needles Size 1 (2.25 mm): set of 4 double-
pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size to obtain
the correct gauge.
Notions Tapestry needle; stitch marker (m).
Gauge 20 sts and 26 rnds = 2" in basket-
weave pattern st worked in the round.
Stitch Guide
Three-Needle Bind-off Method Place
stitches to be joined onto two separate
needles, with either right sides or wrong sides
of the work facing together as instructed.
*Insert a third needle into the fi rst stitch on
each of the other two needles and knit them
together as one stitch. Knit the next stitch
KA_088-097_SSocks.indd 93
on each needle the same way. Pass the fi rst
stitch over the second stitch. Repeat from *
until one stitch remains on the third needle.
Cut yarn and pull the tail through the last
stitch.
LEG
CO 49 sts. Distribute sts over 3 dpn so that
14 sts are on the fi rst two needles and 21 sts
are on the third needle. Pm and join for work-
ing in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts.
Purl 2 rnds. Knit 1 rnd. Work lacy border as
follows,
Rnd 1: *K2tog, [k1, yo] twice, k1, k2tog; rep
from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 2: Knit.
Rep Rnds 1 and 2 three more times. Purl 1
rnd. Purl 1 more rnd, ending 1 st before end-
of-rnd marker. Sl last st temporarily to right
needle, remove m, return last st to beg of first
needle, replace marker. On next rnd, k2tog,
k15 on first needle; k16 on second needle;
k16 on third needle—48 sts rem; 16 sts each
needle; dec st is first st on first needle.
Work basket-weave patt as follows:
Rnds 1–3: *P5, k3; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnds 4–6: *P1, k3, p4; rep from * to end of
rnd.
Rep Rnds 1–6 three more times, then work
Rnds 1–3 once more—27 rnds total.
HEEL
Heel fl ap—work 23 heel sts back and forth in
rows as follows:
Set-Up Row 1: P1, k3, p5, k3 onto fi rst
needle, sl rem 4 sts onto second needle. Turn
work.
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS
10192009094440
Set-Up Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, p2, k5, p3, k5,
p3, k4—23 heel sts on one needle for heel.
Divide rem 25 sts evenly between 2
needles to work later for instep.
Cont as follows:
Row 1: Sl 1, p3, k3, [p5, k3] twice.
Rows 2 and 4: Sl 1 k3, p3, [k5, p3] twice.
Row 3: Sl 1, k2, [p5, k3] twice, p4.
Rows 5 and 7: Sl 1, p3, k3, [p5, k3] twice.
Row 6: Sl 1, p2, [k5, p3] twice, k4.
Rows 8 and 10: Sl 1, k3, p3, [k5, p3]
twice.
Row 9: Sl 1, k2, [p5, k3] twice, p4.
Rows 11–16: Rep Rows 5–10.
Rows 17–19: Rep Rows 5–7.
Row 20: Sl 1, p3, p2tog, p2, p2tog, p3,
p2tog, p2, p2tog, p4—19 heel sts rem.
Place all 25 instep sts on one needle.
Shape heel: K10, fold the heel sts so that
the 2 heel needles are parallel to each other
and the WS of the work faces out—10 sts
on one heel needle, 9 sts on other heel
needle. Using an empty needle, sl the fi rst
st (center st of heel and last st worked),
then use the three-needle bind-off method
to BO the heel sts tog as follows: knit the
first st on each needle tog as if to k2tog,
pass the slipped st over the dec st to BO 1
st, *knit the next st on each needle tog as if
to k2tog, pass the previous st over to BO 1
st; rep from * across all sts—1 heel st rem.
Turn heel right side out.
Gussets —rejoin for working in the rnd as
follows:
Rnd 1: With needle holding single st from
heel BO and RS facing, pick up and knit 15
sts along side of heel fl ap; with a second
needle, work instep sts as [p5, k3] 3 times,
p1; with a third needle, pick up and knit
15 sts along other side of heel fl ap—56
sts total: 16 sts on first needle, 25 sts on
second needle, 15 sts on third needle.
Rnd 2: First needle p5, k3, p8; second
needle [p5, k3] 3 times, p1; third needle k7,
p5, k3.
Rnd 3: First needle p5, k3, p6, p2tog;
second needle [p5, k3] 3 times, p1; third
needle ssk, k5, p5, k3—54 sts rem.
Rnd 4: First needle p1, k3, p5, k6; second
needle p1, [k3, p5] 3 times; third needle p7,
k3, p4.
Rnd 5: First needle p1, k3, p5, k4, k2tog;
second needle p1, [k3, p5] 3 times; third
93
10/19/09 9:41:27 AM
 needle p2tog, p5, k3, p4—52 sts rem.
Rnd 6: First needle p1, k3, p5, k5; second
needle p1, [k3, p5] 3 times; third needle
p6, k3, p4.
Rnd 7: First needle p5, k3, p4, p2tog;
second needle [p5, k3] 3 times, p1; third
needle ssk, k3, p5, k3—50 sts rem.
Rnd 8: First needle p5, k3, p5; second
needle [p5, k3] 3 times, p1; third needle
k4, p5, k3.
Rnd 9: First needle p5, k3, p3, p2tog;
second needle [p5, k3] 3 times, p1; third
needle ssk, k2, p5, k3—48 sts rem.
Rnd 10: First needle p1, k3, p5, k3; second
needle p1, [k3, p5] 3 times; third needle
p4, k3, p4.
Rnd 11: First needle p1, k3, p5, k1, k2tog;
second needle p1, [k3, p5] 3 times; third
needle p2tog, p2, k3, p4—46 sts rem.
Rnd 12: First needle p1, k3, p5, k2; second
needle p1, [k3, p5] 3 times; third needle
p3, k3, p4.
Rnd 13: First needle p5, k3, p1, p2tog;
second needle [p5, k3] 3 times, p1; third
needle ssk, p5, k3—44 sts rem.
Rnd 14: First needle p5, k3, p2; second
needle [p5, k3] 3 times, p1; third needle
k1, p5, k3.
Rnd 15: First needle p5, k2, k3tog; second
needle [p5, k3] 3 times, sl last st onto third
needle: third needle p3tog, p4, k3—40
sts rem.
FOOT
Rearrange sts so there are 13 sts on fi rst
needle, 16 sts on second needle, and 11 sts
on third needle.
Rnds 1–3: P1, [k3, p5] 4 times, k3, p4.
Rnds 4–6: [P5, k3] 5 times.
Rep Rnds 1–6 two more times—piece
measures about 3" from back of heel.
TOE
Rnd 1: P1, k3, p5, k1, k2tog, p1, p2tog,
p2, k3, p5, k1, k2tog, p1, p2tog, p2, k3,
p4—36 sts rem.
Rnd 2: P1, k3, p5, k2, p4, k3, p5, k2, p4,
k3, p4.
Rnd 3: P1, k3, p5, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso,
p2, k3, p5, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, p2, k3,
p4—32 sts rem.
Rnd 4: P5, k3, p3, k1, p5, k3, p2, k2, p5,
k3.
94 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_088-097_SSocks.indd 94
Rnd 5: P5, k1, k2tog, p1, k3tog, p5, k3, p1,
sl 1, k2tog, psso, p1, p2tog, p2, k3—26 sts
rem.
Rnd 6: P5, k2, p1, k1, p5, k3, p1, k1, p4, k3.
Rnd 7: P1, k1, k2tog, p2, p3tog, p1, k3, p5,
p3tog, k1, p1, p2tog, p1—20 sts rem.
Rnd 8: P1, k2, p4, k3, p6, k1, p3.
Rnd 9: K3, ssk, k2tog, k6, ssk, k2tog, k3—16
sts rem.
Arrange sts so there are 4 sts each on the first
and third needles and 8 sts on the second
needle. With third needle, k4 from first
needle—8 sts each on 2 needles. With right
sides of work facing out, use the three-needle
bind-off method to BO all sts tog as for heel,
with the decorative ridge of the BO on RS.
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends. Block lightly.
Ann Budd is the former senior editor of Inter-
weave Knits and is currently a book editor.
She writes and knits in Boulder, Colorado.
Project Photos: Joe Coca
COWGIRL
SLIPPER SOCKS
Ann Budd
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size 8" foot circumference and 8¾"
long from back of heel to tip of toe. To fit a
woman’s size medium.
Yarn Buffalo Gold #6 (100% buffalo; 120 yd
[109 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium): natural
brown, 2 skeins.
Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm): set of 4 double-
pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary
to obtain the correct gauge.
10192009094440
Notions Marker (m); tapestry needle.
Gauge 11 sts and 16 rows = 2" in St st
worked in the rnd.
Stitch Guide
Wave Pattern: (multiple of 11 sts)
Rnds 1–4: Knit.
Rnd 5: *[K2tog] 2 times, [yo, k1] 3 times, yo,
[ssk] 2 times; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 6: Purl.
Rep Rnds 1–6 for pattern.
NOTES
• Toneedles
make the socks larger or smaller, use
one or two sizes larger or smaller
and lengthen or shorten the foot as
necessary.
LEG
Using the old Norwegian method (see box
at right), loosely CO 44 sts. Arrange sts as
evenly as possible on 3 dpn, place marker
(pm), and join for working in the rnd, being
careful not to twist sts. Work Rnds 1–6 of
wave patt (see Stitch Guide) 4 times—24
rnds completed. Knit 5 rnds—piece measures
about 3½" from CO.
HEEL
K10, turn work so WS is facing, sl 1, p21—22
heel sts on 1 dpn. Divide rem 22 sts on 2
needles to be worked later for instep. Work
back and forth in rows on 22 heel sts as foll:
Row 1: (RS) *Sl 1, k1; rep from * to end.
Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, purl to end.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 ten more times—22 heel
rows completed; 11 chain sts along each
selvedge edge. Shape heel: Work short-rows
as foll:
Row 1: (RS) K13, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, knit to 1 st before gap produced
on previous row, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, purl to 1 st before gap produced
on previous row, p2tog, p1, turn.
Rep Rows 3 and 4 until all heel sts have been
worked, ending with WS Row 4—14 sts rem.
Shape gussets: Pick up sts along selvedges
of heel fl ap and rejoin for working in the rnd
as foll:
Rnd 1: With Needle 1, k14 heel sts then pick
up and knit 12 sts along selvedge of heel fl ap;
with Needle 2, k22 instep sts; with Needle 3,
10/19/09 9:41:28 AM
 pick up and knit 12 sts along selvedge of heel
fl ap then knit fi rst 7 heel sts from Needle 1
again—60 sts total: 19 sts each on Needle 1
and Needle 3, 22 sts on Needle 2. Rnd begins
at center of heel.
Rnd 2: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog,
k1; on Needle 2, k22; on Needle 3, k1, ssk,
knit to end—2 sts dec’d.
Rnd 3: Knit.
Rep Rnds 2 and 3 seven more times—44 sts
rem.
FOOT
Cont even in St st until piece measures 7"
from back of heel or about 1¾" less than
desired total length.
TOE
Dec for toe as foll:
Rnd 1: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog,
k1; on Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts,
k2tog, k1; on Needle 3, k1, ssk, knit to
end—4 sts dec’d.
Rnd 2: Knit.
Rep Rnds 1 and 2 five more times—20 sts
rem. Rep Rnd 1 only 3 times—8 sts rem.
Break yarn, leaving a 10" tail.
FINISHING
Arrange 4 sts each on 2 needles for top and
bottom of toe, thread tail on a tapestry
needle and use the Kitchener st (see Glos-
sary) to graft sts tog. For an alternative,
no-graft finish, thread needle through rem
sts, drawstring-fashion, pull tight to close tip
OLD NORWEGIAN CAST-ON
Leaving a long tail, make a slipknot, and hold yarn as shown (Figure 1). *Bring needle in
front of thumb, under both yarns around thumb, down into center of thumb loop, back
forward, and over top of yarn around index finger (Figure 2), catch this yarn, and bring
needle back down through thumb loop (Figure 3), turning thumb slightly to make room
for needle to pass through. Drop loop off thumb and place thumb back in V configura-
tion while tightening up resulting stitch on needle (Figure 4). Repeat from *.
Figure 1
Figure 2
KA_088-097_SSocks.indd 95
of toe, and fasten off on WS of work. Weave
in loose ends. Block lightly.
Ann Budd is the former senior editor of Inter-
weave Knits and is currently a book editor.
She writes and knits in Boulder, Colorado.
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
CITRINE
SOCKLETS
Mar i ly n Webster
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size 8" foot circumference and 8¾"
long from back of heel to tip of toe. To fit
women’s U.S. shoe sizes 7 to 9.
Yarn Alchemy Sanctuary (70% merino, 30%
silk; 125 yd [114 m]/50 g; DK #3 Light):
#76E citrine, 2 skeins.
Needles Size 2 (2.75 mm): set of 4
double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if
Figure 3 Figure 4
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS
10192009094440
necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Marker (m); cable needle (cn);
tapestry needle.
Gauge 13 sts and 19 rnds = 2" in St st in
the rnd.
NOTES
• Citrine Socklet (pictured on left); An-
netrelac (pictured on right, page 111)
LEG
CO 58 sts. Distribute sts as foll: 29 sts on
Needle 1, 15 sts on Needle 2, and 14 sts
on Needle 3. Place marker (pm) and join
for working in the rnd. Work Rows 1–12 of
Cable chart, then rep Rows 9–12 six more
times. Rep Row 9 once more, but do not
work last st of rnd. Turn.
HEEL
Heel is worked using short-rows on the 29
sts of Needles 2 and 3. Th is heel construc-
tion involves working yo backward (see box
on page 96).
Row 1: (WS) Yo backward, p27, turn.
Row 2: (RS) Yo as usual, k26, turn.
Row 3: Yo backward, p25, turn.
Row 4: Yo as usual, k24, turn.
Cont in this manner, working 1 st less on
each row, for 13 more rows, ending with
a WS row that is worked as [yo backward,
p11, turn].
Row 1: (RS) Yo as usual, k11, correct st
mount of yo (so right leg is the leading leg),
k2tog (yo and the next st), turn.
Row 2: Yo backward, p12, ssp (yo and the
next st; see Glossary), turn.
Row 3: Yo as usual, k13, correct st mount
of next 2 yos, k3tog (2 yos and the next st),
turn.
Row 4: Yo backward, p14, sssp (2 yos and
the next st; see on page 96), turn.
Rep the shaping of Rows 3 and 4, working
1 more st on each row, for 12 more rows,
ending with a WS row that is worked as [yo
backward, p26, sssp, turn]. Next row: Yo,
k27, correct st mount of next 2 yos, p3tog,
turn. Next row: Yo backward, k1, p27, sssk,
turn. Next rnd: Yo, p1, k27, p1, sl the yo
onto the next needle and correct st mount,
p2tog, work Needle 1 in patt (beg with 2nd
st of Row 10 of chart) to last st, sl the yo
from Needle 2 onto Needle 1, ssp, p1, k27,
p1—58 sts rem.
95
10/19/09 9:41:30 AM
 FOOT
Needle 1: Cont in patt for instep; Needles
2 and 3: p1, k27, p1. Cont in patt until foot
measures about 6¾" from back of heel or 2"
less than desired finished length, ending
with Row 9 of chart.

TOE
The toe is worked on the 29 sts of Needle 1. knit
Place 29 sts from Needles 2 and 3 onto one
needle, and divide the instep sts on Needle purl
1 onto two needles. Shape toe using short-
rows as foll: v sl 1 with yarn in back (wyb)
2/1 RC: sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in back, k1, k2 from cn
Row 1: (RS) Yo as usual, k28, turn.
Row 2: (WS) Yo backward, p27, turn. pattern repeat
2/1 LC: sl 1 st onto cn and hold in front, k2, k1 from cn
Cont in this manner, working 1 st less on
each row, for 16 more rows, ending with
Cable
a WS row that is worked as [yo backward,
p11, turn].
Row 1: (RS) Yo as usual, k11, correct st 11
mount of yo, k2tog, turn.
Row 2: Yo backward, p12, ssp, turn. 9
Row 3: Yo as usual, k13, correct st mount
7
of next 2 yos, k3tog, turn.
Row 4: Yo backward, p14, sssp, turn. 5
Rep the shaping of Rows 3 and 4, working
1 more st on each row, for 12 more rows, 3
ending with a WS row that is worked as
[yo backward, p26, sssp, turn]. Next row: 1
(RS) Yo as usual, k27, correct st mount
of next 2 yos, p3tog, turn. Next row: Yo
backward, k1, p27, sssk.
YARNOVER BACKWARD
FINISHING
Place 29 toe sts onto one needle and sl the Usually, yarnovers on the purl side are worked by bringing the yarn from the
yo onto the other needle and correct st front over the top of the needle to the back, then under the needle to front again
mount. (The toe sts will be on the front (Figure 1). In working a short-row heel, yarnovers are worked in the opposite
needle, the sole sts on the back needle.) direction (referred to as yo backward). Bring yarn under needle to back, then over
Cut yarn leaving a 1 yd tail. With tail needle to front again, and continue purling row (Figure 2).
threaded on a tapestry needle and beg
with the back needle, use Kitchener st (see
Glossary) to graft sts tog, grafting yo tog
with last st. Weave in loose ends.
Figure 1 Figure 2
Marilyn Webster’s passion for fiber arts
began at age six, when her mother taught
her to knit while they stood in line at Ma- SSSP DECREASE
dame Tussauds Wax Museum in London.
She especially loves to knit socks. Slip three stitches knitwise, one
at a time, and purl them together
Project Photos: Joe Hancock through their back loops—two stitches
decreased.

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10192009094440

INFANT’S FANCY
SILK SOCK
Nancy Bush
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size 4½" foot circumference, 4¾"
long from cast-on edge to top of heel fl ap,
and 4¼" long from back of heel to tip of toe.
To fit U.S. infants’ shoe sizes about 3 to 4.
Yarn Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock (75% wool,
25% nylon; 215 yd [196 m]/2 oz; Fingering #1
Super Fine): #0ns natural, 1 skein.
Needles Size 00 (1.75 mm): set of 4 double-
pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary
to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Stitch marker (m); tapestry needle.
Gauge 10½ sts and 13 rnds = 1" in St st
worked in the rnd, before blocking.
STITCH GUIDE
Leg Pattern: (multiple of 4 sts)
Rnd 1: *K1, yo, k2tog, p1; rep from *.
Rnds 2 and 4: *K3, p1; rep from *.
Rnd 3 : *Yo, k2tog, k1, p1; rep from *.
Rep Rnds 1–4 for pattern.
LEG
Holding 2 needles tog, CO 48 sts. Remove 1
needle from CO sts. Divide sts evenly onto 3
needles (16 sts each needle). Join for working
in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts, and
place marker (pm) after first st to denote
beg of rnd. Cuff: Work k2, p2 ribbing for 21
rnds—piece should measure 1½" from beg.
Rep 4 rnds of leg patt (see Stitch Guide) 10
times total—40 patt rnds completed; piece
should measure about 4¾" from beg.
HEEL
Heel flap: [Sl 1, k1] 3 times, sl 1, [k2tog, sl 1]
5 times, [k1, sl 1] 2 times, k1—22 heel sts.
Hold rem 21 sts on 2 needles to be worked
KA_088-097_SSocks.indd 97
later for instep (first and last sts on instep
needle are purl sts). Work 22 heel sts back
and forth in rows as foll:
Row 1: (WS) Sl 1, p21.
Row 2: (RS) *Sl 1, k1; rep from *.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until a total of 24 rows
have been worked, ending with a WS
row—12 chain sts (slipped selvedge sts)
along each edge of heel flap. Turn heel: Cont
in short-rows as foll:
Row 1: (RS) Sl 1, k13, k2tog, turn.
Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, p6, p2tog, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, k6, k2tog, turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 until 8 sts rem, ending
with a WS row. Next row: Sl 1, k1, [k2tog]
2 times, k2—6 sts rem. Gussets: Rejoin for
working in the rnd as foll:
Rnd 1: With needle holding 6 heel sts
(Needle 1), pick up and knit 12 sts along right
side of heel flap; with Needle 2, p1, work Rnd
1 of leg patt over next 20 sts; with Needle 3,
pick up and knit 12 sts along left side of heel
fl ap, then knit the fi rst 3 sts from Needle 1
again—51 sts total: 15 sts each on Needles 1
and 3, 21 instep sts on Needle 2. Rnd begins
at back of heel.
Rnd 2: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog,
k1; on Needle 2, p1, work 20 sts in leg patt as
established; on Needle 3, k1, sl 1, k1, psso,
knit to end—2 sts dec’d.
Rnd 3: On Needle 1, knit; on Needle 2, work
instep sts as established; on Needle 3, knit.
Rep Rnds 2 and 3 two more times—45 sts
rem: 12 sts each on Needles 1 and 3, 21 to close end of toe. Weave in loose ends.
instep sts on Needle 2.
FINISHING
FOOT Block on sock blockers or under a damp
Cont as established, working the heel sts towel.
in St st and the instep sts in patt until foot
measures 3¼", or 1" less than desired total Nancy Bush is the author of many knitting
length. books, including the recent Knitted Lace of
Estonia (Interweave, 2008).
TOE
This project was excerpted from Knitting
Rnd 1: *K2tog, k3; rep from *—36 sts rem.
Vintage Socks (Interweave, 2005).
Rnds 2–4: Knit.
Rnd 5: *K2tog, k2; rep from *—27 sts rem. Project Photos: Joe Coca
Rnds 6 and 7: Knit even.
Rnd 8: *K2tog, k1; rep from *—18 sts rem.
Rnds 9 and 10: Knit even.
Rnd 11: *K2tog; rep from *—9 sts rem.
Cut yarn, thread tail on a tapestry needle,
draw tail through rem sts, and pull up snugly
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 97
10/19/09 9:41:39 AM
10192009094441
 FA N C Y
SOCKS
You’ve tackled the basics of double-pointed
needles, turning a heel and forming gussets, now
you’re ready to add in color, lace, or cables.

UP-DOWN SPIRAL SOX

by Sandy Cushman
YARN Plymouth Country Prints 8-ply
and Country 8-ply
Page 103

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10192009094658
 BAZAAR SOCKS
HAT 1 HERE by Priscilla Gibson-Roberts
YARN Brown Sheep Cotton Fine
HERE
Page 104
by XXxx
YARN xxxxxx

ALGONQUIN SOCKS
by Gayle Bunn
YARN Brown Sheep Nature Spun
Sport Weight
Page 108

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 ANNETRELAC SOCKS
by Sandy Beadle
YARN Schaefer Anne
Page 111

A HOLIDAY STOCKING
by Nancy Bush
YARN Dale of Norway Heilo
Page 109

TRAVELER’S STOCKINGS
by Nancy Bush
YARN Koigu Premium Merino
Page 112

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10192009094659
 BELLS & WHISTLES SOCKS
by Mona Schmidt
YARN Reynolds Whiskey,
distributed by JCA
Page 113

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 WISHBONE SOCKS
by Nancy Bush
YARN Louet Gems Fingering Weight
Page 115

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UP-DOWN
SPIRAL SOX
Sandy Cushman
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size To fit a woman’s average
(large) foot. About 7½ (8)" around and about
9¼ (10)" long.
Yarn Plymouth Country Prints 8-ply (100%
superwash wool, 105 yd [96 m]/50 g; Wor-
sted #4 Medium): #25, 1 ball.
Plymouth Country 8-Ply (100% superwash
wool; 106 yd [97 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Me-
dium): #18 red (MC), 2 balls, #9215 grayish
green, 1 ball. Small amount of contrasting
waste yarn.
Needles Size 5 (3.75 mm): set of 5 double-
pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if neces-
sary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle.
Gauge 24 sts and 28 rows = 4", unblocked;
22 sts = 4", blocked.
NOTES
• Rounds begin at the inside of the foot,
hence, the instep stitches are worked fi rst
for the right sock and the sole stitches
are worked first for the left sock to place
“seam” (color changes) at inside leg, where
they are least noticeable.
• At color changes, always bring the new
yarn under the old to prevent holes.
Stitch Guide
Slip-Stitch Pattern:
(multiple of 4 sts)
Rnds 1 and 2: With CC, *k3, sl 1; rep from *.
Rnds 3 and 4: With MC, sl 1, *k3, sl 1; rep
from *, end k3.
Rnds 5 and 6: With CC, k1, sl 1, *k3, sl 1;
rep from *, end k2.
KA_098-115_FSocks.indd 103
Rnds 7 and 8: With MC, k2, sl 1, *k3, sl 1;
rep from *, end k1.
Rep Rnds 1–8 for a right-leaning pattern.
Work the opposite direction (Rnds 8–1) for a
left-leaning pattern.
TOE-UP SOCK
Right Sock, Toe: With red, CO 4 sts onto
1 dpn. Beg with a knit row, work 9 rows St
st. With RS facing, use 3 other dpn to pick
up and knit 6 sts along one side edge, 4 sts
across CO edge, and 6 sts along other side
edge (see box on page 104), then knit the first
2 sts from the original 4—20 sts total. Place
marker (pm) and join, arranging sts so that
there are 5 sts on each of 4 dpn, and placing
a second m between the 10th and 11th sts.
Shape toe: Beg with red and alternating 2
rnds red with 2 rnds green, inc as foll:
Rnds 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9: Knit.
Rnds 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10: K1, M1, knit to
1 st before next m, M1, k2, M1, knit to 1 st
before next m, M1, k1—4 sts inc’d each rnd;
40 sts after Rnd 10.
Rnd 11: Knit.
For size small only:
Rnd 12: K1, M1, knit to 1 st before next m,
M1, knit to end—42 sts.
Rnd 13: Knit.
Rnd 14: Knit to m, k1, M1, knit to 1 st
before next m, M1, k1—44 sts.
For size large only:
Rnd 12: K1, M1, knit to 1 st before next m,
M1, k2, M1, knit to 1 st before next m, M1,
k1—44 sts.
Rnd 13: Knit.
Rnd 14: K1, M1, knit to 1 st before next m,
M1, knit to end—46 sts.
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS
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Rnd 15: Knit.
Rnd 16: K1, M1, knit to 1 st before next
m, M1, knit to end—48 sts.
FOOT
Work 0 (2) rnds red. Break off green. Join
multicolored yarn and work Rnds 1–8 of
slip-stitch patt until piece measures about
7 (7½)" from beg, or about 2¼ (2½)" less
than desired total length (including heel),
ending with an even-numbered rnd. Mark
heel opening: Cont in patt across fi rst
22 (24) sts for the instep, drop main yarn,
with contrasting waste yarn k22 (24) sts
for heel, drop contrasting yarn, pick up
main yarn, knit across the 22 (24) waste-
yarn sts, knit to end of rnd. Note: Do not
work slip-st patt on the 22 (24) heel sts for
2 rnds. Resume patt on all sts on the next
odd-numbered rnd of patt.
LEG
Cont in patt until piece measures 2¼" less
than desired total length to top. Border:
(Knit 2 rnds red, knit 2 rnds green) 3
times—6 stripes. With red, knit 5 rnds.
BO all sts loosely.
HEEL
Place dpns through the 22 (24) sts on
either side of the waste yarn, then care-
fully remove waste yarn as illustrated
in box on page 104. Arrange sts so that
there are 11 (12) leg sts on each of 2 dpn
and 11 (12) foot sts on each of 2 other
dpn—44 (48) sts total. With red and beg
at the gap between the leg and foot sts,
pick up and knit 2 sts in gap, k22 (24), pick
up and knit 4 sts in the gap on the other
side (placing another m between the 2nd
and 3rd picked-up st), k22 (24), then pick
up and knit 2 sts in the fi rst gap—52 (56)
sts. Place m and join. K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts
from next m, k2tog, k1; rep from *—4 sts
dec’d. Alternating 2 rnds green with 2 rnds
red, dec in this manner every other rnd
7 times total—24 (28) sts rem. Then dec
every rnd until 12 sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. Use
the Kitchener st (see Glossary) to graft the
rem sts tog.
LEFT SOCK
Work as for right sock, but work slip-st
103
10/19/09 9:44:17 AM
 patt in the opposite direction (Rnds 8–1) cotton; 20% wool; 222 yd [203 m]/50 g;
and mark the heel opening on the first 22 Fingering #1 Super Fine):
(24) sts of the rnd. Pair 1: #345 gold dust (light orange), #310
wild orange (medium orange), #210 tea rose
FINISHING (medium pink), #730 raging purple (purple),
Weave in loose ends. Block. #005 cavern (black), #860 sedona red (dark
ochre), 1 skein each.
Sandy Cushman designs knitwear from her Pair 2: #345 gold dust (light orange), #860
mountain home in Durango, Colorado. sedona red (dark ochre), #765 blue paradise
(medium blue), #005 cavern (black), #810
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove cherry moon (dark pink), #360 wild sage
(sage), 1 skein each.
Pair 3: #210 tea rose (medium pink), #201
barn red, #850 berry (burgundy), #860
sedona red (dark ochre), #005 cavern (black),
#560 my blue heaven (aqua), 1 skein each.
Pair 4: #770 wisteria (light purple), #730
raging purple (purple), #345 gold dust (light
orange), #810 cherry moon (dark pink), #765
blue paradise (medium blue), #005 cavern
(black), 1 skein each.
Pair 5: #560 my blue heaven (aqua), #765
BAZAAR SOCKS blue paradise (medium blue), #005 cavern
(black), #201 barn red, #840 lime light
Priscilla Gibson-Roberts (bright green), #810 cherry moon (dark pink),
1 skein each.
Skill Level Intermediate Pair 6: #210 tea rose (medium pink), #850
berry (burgundy), #840 lime light (bright
Finished Size 7½" foot circumference, green), #310 wild orange (medium orange),
6¼" long from cuff to top of heel, and 8¾" #005 cavern (black), #201 barn red, 1 skein
long from back of heel to tip of toe. To fit each.
women’s U.S. shoe sizes 7 to 8. Pair 7: #840 lime light (bright green), #360
Yarn Brown Sheep Cotton Fine (80% wild sage (sage), #770 wisteria (light purple),
SET-UP FOR WORKING A SQUARE
TOE IN THE ROUND
To set up for working in the round, pick up sts
along the sides and cast-on edge of the knit-
ting as shown.
PICKING UP
AFTERTHOUGHT HEEL
STITCHES
To begin heel, insert needles
through stitches on either side
of the contrasting waste yarn,
then remove waste yarn.
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KA_098-115_FSocks.indd 104
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#310 wild orange (medium orange), #560 my
blue heaven (aqua), #005 cavern (black), 1
skein each.
Needles Sizes 0 (2 mm) and 1 (2.25 mm): set
of 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size
if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Waste yarn for provisional CO;
markers (m); tapestry needle.
Gauge 20 sts and 24 rows = 2" on smaller
needles in striped toe/heel patt.
Stitch Guide
Sssp (double decrease): With yarn in
front, sl 3 sts kwise one at a time. Sl 3 sts
back onto left-hand needle and purl sts tog
through back loops.
Colorways: The fi rst color listed is the
foreground, and the second color is the back-
ground. Since sock is worked from the toe up,
bands are numbered from the toe.
Pair 1:
Toe/heel: Light orange on medium orange.
1st band: Medium pink on purple.
2nd band: Black on dark ochre.
3rd band: Light orange on purple.
4th band: Black on medium pink.
5th band: Dark ochre on purple.
6th band: Light orange on black.
7th band: Purple on medium orange.
8th band: Medium pink on black.
9th band: Light orange on medium orange.
Pair 2:
Toe/heel: Light orange on dark ochre.
1st band: Medium blue on black.
2nd band: Dark pink on light orange.
3rd band: Black on sage.
4th band: Medium blue on dark pink.
5th band: Dark ochre on black.
6th band: Sage on dark pink.
7th band: Black on light orange.
8th band: Medium blue on sage.
9th band: Light orange on dark ochre.
Pair 3:
Toe/heel: Medium pink on barn red.
1st band: Burgundy on dark ochre.
2nd band: Black on aqua.
3rd band: Barn red on dark ochre.
4th band: Medium pink on burgundy.
5th band: Dark ochre on black.
6th band: Burgundy on aqua.
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 7th band: Black on barn red.
8th band: Aqua on dark ochre.
9th band: Medium pink on barn red.
Pair 4:
Toe/heel: Light purple on purple.
1st band: Light orange on dark pink.
2nd band: Medium blue on light purple.
3rd band: Dark pink on black.
4th band: Purple on light orange.
5th band: Dark pink on medium blue.
6th band: Light orange on light purple.
7th band: Dark pink on purple.
8th band: Medium blue on black.
9th band: Light purple on purple.
Pair 5:
Toe/heel: Aqua on medium blue.
1st band: Black on barn red.
2nd band: Medium blue on bright green.
3rd band: Aqua on dark pink.
4th band: Bright green on black.
5th band: Barn red on dark pink.
6th band: Aqua on black.
7th band: Medium blue on barn red.
8th band: Dark pink on bright green.
9th band: Aqua on medium blue.
tain stripe pattern as you work yarnovers
and decreases at each edge.
• Round begins at bottom of foot. To reduce
the jog at the end of the round, take yarn
being dropped over and under the new
color, drawing the old color up and the
new color down with a sharp tug before
working ends in.
• The center bottom stitch, which marks the
beginning of rounds, is worked out of pat-
tern to disguise the jog where chart-ends
meet.
• To make a longer sock, choose a band from
the Leg chart and work this band also on
foot. For greater foot circumference, work
on larger needles but be sure to check
gauge beforehand, to ensure a fitting sock.
TOE
With smaller dpn, background color, waste
yarn, and the invisible (provisional) method
(see Glossary), CO 41 sts. Do not join; work
back and forth on 2 dpns. Next row:
(RS) *K1 with background color, k1 with
foreground color; rep from * to last st; do
not work last st, turn.
Row 1: (WS) Yo backward (see page 96),
purl in colors as established to last st; do
not work last st; turn.
Row 2: (RS) Yo as usual, knit in patt to
last st before yo, turn.
Row 3: Yo backward, purl in patt to last st
before yo, turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 until 17 sts rem between
yo’s. Join toe:
Row 1: (RS) Yo as usual, knit in patt to yo,
turn yo to standard st mount (so that right
leg of st is leading) and k2tog (yo and next
true st), turn.
Row 2: (WS) Yo backward, purl in patt to
yo, turn yo to standard st mount and ssp
(see below), turn.
Row 3: Yo as usual, knit in patt to yo (next
2 sts on left needle are yo’s), turn 2 yo’s to

Pair 6:
Toe/heel: Medium pink on burgundy.
1st band: Bright green on medium orange.
2nd band: Black on burgundy.
Figure 1 Figure 2
3rd band: Barn red on medium orange.
4th band: Bright green on black.
5th band: Medium pink on barn red. SSP DECREASE
6th band: Bright green on burgundy. Holding yarn in front, slip two stitches knitwise one at a time onto right needle
7th band: Black on medium orange. (Figure 1). Slip them back onto left needle and purl the two stitches together
8th band: Barn red on bright green. through back loops (Figure 2).
9th band: Medium pink on burgundy.

Pair 7:
Toe/heel: Bright green on sage.
1st band: Light purple on medium orange.
2nd band: Sage on aqua.
3rd band: Light purple on black.
4th band: Medium orange on bright green.
5th band: Aqua on light purple. SHORT-ROW TOE AND HEEL CONSTRUCTION
6th band: Black on medium orange. The toe and heel are constructed with short-rows that produce an hourglass
7th band: Light purple on sage. shape. Each short-row begins with a yarnover that is instrumental in prevent-
8th band: Medium orange on aqua. ing gaps. When the knit side is facing, work the yarnover in the usual manner,
9th band: Bright green on sage. bringing yarn forward under needle then over the top to the back. When the
purl side is facing, bring yarn to the back under needle, then over the top to the
front as illustrated here. This forms a backward yarnover—the leading side of
NOTES
the loop is on the back of the needle.
• When working toe and heel joins, main-
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 HEEL
Discontinue working in the rnd; work only
on 41 sts of sole, leaving 41 sts of instep for
later. Working back and forth on sole sts,
work to end of sole sts in background color,
then turn and purl 1 row (over 41 sts) in
background color. Next row: (RS) *K1 with

Pair 3 Pair 5 Pair 6 Pair 7

Pair 1 band 1 foreground

Pair 2 Pair 4
band 2 foreground

band 3 foreground

correct st mount, k3tog (2 yo’s with next
true st), turn.
Row 4: Yo backward, purl in patt to yo,
turn 2 yo’s to correct st mount, sssp (see
Stitch Guide), turn.
Rep Rows 3 and 4 until only 1 yo rem at
each end. The toe should now create a
“cup,” with one top edge on the needle and
the other top edge held on waste yarn. Re-
move waste yarn, placing 41 freed sts onto
2 dpn for instep. You will now be working
in the rnd. Next rnd: With RS facing and
Foot
toe background color, knit across first dpn to
band 4 foreground
yo, join yo to fi rst instep st with k2tog, knit
across instep dpn to last st, join this last in-
band 5 foreground
step st to yo on next needle with ssk—82 sts
total. Knit 1 more rnd in background color,
band 6 foreground
then knit first 20 sts of sole again, ending
at center bottom of foot. Place marker (pm) band 7 foreground
for beg of rnd. Beg with Row 1 of Foot chart,
work bands in colors as directed for your sock band 8 foreground
(see Stitch Guide) through Row 55 of chart.
See Notes about working beg and end of rnds. band 9 foreground
background color
all bands

55
53
band 4
51
49
47
45
43
band 3
41
39
37
35
33
31
29
27
25
band 2 23
21
19
17
15
13
11
9
7
band 1
5
3
1

center st

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 background color, k1 with foreground color;
rep from * 19 more times across sole sts; do
not work last sole st, turn.
Row 1: (WS) Yo backward, purl in patt to last
st; do not work last st; turn.
Row 2: (RS) Yo as usual, knit in patt to last
st before yo, turn.
Row 3: (WS) Yo backward, purl in patt to last
st before yo, turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 until 17 sts rem between
yo’s. Join heel:
Row 1: (RS) Yo as usual, knit in patt to yo,
turn yo to standard st mount and k2tog (yo
and next true st), turn.
Row 2: (WS) Yo backward, purl in patt to yo,
turn yo to standard st mount and ssp (yo and
next true st, see box on page 105), turn.
Row 3: Yo as usual, knit in patt to yo (next
2 sts on left needle are yo’s) , turn 2 yo’s to
correct st mount, k3tog (2 yo’s and next true
st), turn.
Row 4: Yo backward, purl in patt to yo (next
2 sts on left needle are yo’s), turn 2 yo’s to
correct st mount, sssp (2 yo’s and next true
st), turn.
Rep Rows 3 and 4 until 1 yo rem at each end.
Next rnd: With RS facing, knit across heel
sts in background color to yo, join yo to fi rst
instep st with k2tog, knit across instep sts to
last instep st, join last instep st to yo on next
needle with ssk—82 sts. Work 1 more rnd in
background color, ending at center back of
leg. Pm for beg of rnd.
LEG
Beg with Row 1 of Leg chart, work bands
in colors as directed for your sock through
Row 71 of chart. Before beg 8th band, inc 1
st—83 sts. By working the 8th band on the
st multiple plus 1 st, the diagonals lean to
the left. To make the diagonals lean to the
right, work the 8th band on the st multiple
minus 1 st. Next rnd: With background
color, *k1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd. Rep
last rnd once more. Change to larger dpns
and BO all sts in patt.
FINISHING
With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle,
weave in loose ends. Lightly steam block.

Leg
71
69
band 9 67
65
63
61
59
57
55
53
band 8
51
49
47
45
43
41
39
37
band 7
35
33
31
29
27
25
band 6
23
21
19
17
15
13
11
band 5
9
7
5
3
1

center st

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Priscilla Gibson-Roberts is passionate
about traditional knitting and spinning
techniques and has written a number of
books on the topic, including Knitting in
the Old Way, Ethnic Socks & Stockings,
and Simple Socks: Plain and Fancy.
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
ALGONQUIN
SOCKS
Gayle Bunn
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size About 7½ (9)" foot circum-
ference and 7¾ (9¼)" foot length. To fit a
child (woman).
Yarn Brown Sheep Nature Spun Sport
Weight (100% wool; 184 yd [168 m]/50 g;
Sportweight #2 Fine): 1 ball each of 8
colors. Child’s version shown in #N04 blue
knight (navy; MC), #N80 mountain purple
(A), #N30 Nordic blue (medium blue), #109
spring green, #N17 French clay (orange),
#N46 red fox, #308 sunburst gold, and
#200 Bordeaux (burgundy).
Adult version shown in #N46 red fox (MC),
#308 sunburst gold (A), #N17 French clay
(orange), #200 Bordeaux (burgundy), #N30
Nordic blue (medium blue), #N80 mountain
purple, #109 spring green, and #N04 blue
knight (navy). Note: 1 ball of each color is
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KA_098-115_FSocks.indd 108
sufficient to make both pairs of socks shown.
Needles Size 5 (3.75 mm): set of 4 double-
pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary
to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Marker (m); tapestry needle.
Gauge 25 stitches and 30 rounds = 4" in St st
charted patterns, worked in the round.
LEG
With MC, loosely CO 48 (60) sts. Arrange sts
evenly on 3 dpn, place marker (pm), and join
for working in the rnd, being careful not to
twist sts.
Rnd 1: *K2 with MC, k2 with A; rep from *
around.
Rnds 2–7 (9): *K2 with MC, p2 with A; rep
from * around.
With A, knit 2 rnds—piece measures 1 (1¼)"
from CO.
Child’s size only: Work Rnds 1–29 of Child’s
Sock chart. On Rnd 30 of chart, knit with MC
dec 3 sts evenly spaced—45 sts rem. Work
Rnds 31–34 of chart. On Rnd 35 of chart,
knit with MC inc 3 sts evenly spaced—48 sts.
Work Rnds 36–42 of chart—piece measures
about 6¾" from CO. Cut off yarn.
Woman’s size only: Work Rnds 1–34 of
Woman’s Sock chart. On Rnd 35 of chart, knit
with MC dec 4 sts evenly spaced—56 sts rem.
Work Rnds 36–42 of chart, then work Rnds
35–42 once more, this time without decreas-
ing on Rnd 35—still 56 sts; piece measures
about 8" from CO. Cut off yarn.
HEEL
Slip last 12 (14) sts of rnd onto one dpn, then
slip first 12 (14) sts of next rnd onto same
needle—24 (28) heel sts on 1 dpn; rem 24
(28) sts will be worked later for instep (divide
these sts evenly between 2 dpn). With RS
facing, join MC to beg of sts
on heel needle. Heel Flap:
Work 24 (28) heel sts back
and forth in rows as foll:
Row 1: (RS) *K1, sl 1 as if
to purl with yarn in back
(pwise wyb); rep from * to
last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2: Purl.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 rows
until heel measures 1¾ (2)",
ending with a WS row.
10192009094702
Turn heel: Work short-rows as foll:
Row 1: (RS) K14 (16), ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 2: (WS) Sl 1 pwise with yarn in front
(wyf), p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1 pwise wyb, knit to 1 st before
gap made on previous row, ssk (1 st from each
side of gap), k1, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1 pwise wyf, purl to 1 st before gap
made on previous row, p2tog (1 st from each
side of gap), p1, turn.
Rep Rows 3 and 4 until all heel sts have been
worked, ending with a WS row and ending
the last rep with ssk on Row 3, and p2tog on
Row 4, if there are not enough sts to work the
final k1 or p1 after the dec—14 (16) sts rem.
Shape Gusset: With MC and RS facing, knit
across heel sts, then with the same needle
(Needle 1) pick up and knit 13 (15) sts along
selvedge of heel fl ap; with Needle 2, k24 (28)
instep sts; with Needle 3, pick up and knit
13 (15) sts along other selvedge of heel fl ap,
then knit the first 7 (8) heel sts from Needle
1 again—64 (74) sts total: 20 (23) sts each
on Needle 1 and Needle 3, 24 (28) sts on
Needle 2. Rnd begins at center back heel.
Rnd 2: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog,
k1; on Needle 2, knit; on Needle 3, k1, ssk,
knit to end—2 sts dec’d.
Rnd 3: Knit.
Rep Rnds 2 and 3 seven (eight) more
times—48 (56) sts rem; 12 (14) sts each
on Needle 1 and Needle 3, 24 (28) sts on
Needle 2.
FOOT
Working according to chart for your size,
work Rnds 37–42 once, then rep Rnds 35–42
two (three) times. With MC, knit 1 rnd—foot
measures about 6¼ (7½)" from back of heel.
To customize foot length, work even with MC
10/19/09 9:44:22 AM
 Child’s Sock Woman’s Sock
41 41
green 39
39
37 37
gold
35 35
purple 33
33
31 31
medium blue
29 29
orange 27 27

25 25
red
23 23
burgundy 21 21

19 19
navy
17 17

pattern repeat 15 15

13 13

11 11

9 9

7 7

5 5

3 3

1 1

until foot measures 1½ (1¾)" less than desired
finished length.
TOE
Rnd 1: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog,
k1; on Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts,
k2tog, k1; on Needle 3, k1, ssk, knit to end of
needle—4 sts dec’d.
Rnd 2: Knit.
Rep Rnds 1 and 2 five (six) more times—24
(28) sts rem; 6 (7) sts each on Needle 1 and
Needle 3, 12 (14) sts on Needle 2. Knit the sts
from Needle 1 onto the end of Needle 3—12
(14) sts each on 2 needles.
FINISHING
With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, use
the Kitchener st (see Glossary) to graft sts
tog. Weave in loose ends. Block lightly.
Gayle Bunn has been a knitter since learning,
at age six, from her grandmother. She has
worked for numerous North American yarn
companies and magazines.
This project was excerpted from Folk Style and 12" from top of leg to bottom of heel
(Interweave, 2007). Yarn Dale of Norway Heilo (100% wool,
109 yd [100 m]/50 g; Sportweight #2 Fine):
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan #4137 red, #0017 natural, #7562 green.
Needles Sizes 3 (3.25 mm) and 2
(2.75 mm): set of 5 double-pointed (dpn).
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain
the correct gauge.
Gauge 12 sts and 14 rnds = 2" in circular,
patterned stockinette stitch on larger
needles before blocking
NOTES
• Leave long tails when casting on and
when starting a new color near the top,
so the tails may later be used for mak-
ing the braided hanging loop.
A HOLIDAY
STOCKING LEG
Nancy Bush With green and larger needles, CO 92 sts,
using the double-start cast-on (see Glos-
Skill Level Intermediate sary) over one needle only. Divide sts onto
4 needles (23 sts on each needle.) Join into
Finished Size About 12" around top opening a rnd, being careful not to twist sts. This

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 Holiday Stocking

join is the seam line at center back leg and

marks the beginning of all future rnds.
Work Kihnu Vits (see box below), using
red and natural; these 2 rnds count as the
first 2 rnds of chart. Work next 10 rnds of
chart as indicated for cuff, working entire
36-st chart 2 times, then working fi rst 20
sts once more. Work 2 rnds of Kihnu Vits
again, using green and natural for next 2
rnds of chart. Work the foll rnd of chart in
red, dec 2 sts (1 at end of Needle 1 and 1
at beg of Needle 4)—90 sts rem. For Star
motif section of chart, work entire 36-st
chart twice, then work fi rst 18 sts of chart
once more. Work in pattern from Star
section of chart until leg measures 10½",
and you have completed 3 reps of the Star
pattern, plus the 4-rnd border shown at
top of chart.
Next Rnd: Knit with red, dec 8 sts
evenly—82 sts rem.
Adjust sts so there are 17 sts each on
Needles 1 and 4, and 24 sts each on
Needles 2 and 3.
HEEL
With red, k17 on Needle 1, turn, p34,
turn. These 34 sts form the heel fl ap. The
rem 48 sts are left on Needles 2 and 4 to
work later for the instep.
Row 1: (RS) *Sl 1, k33; rep from *.
Row 2: (WS) *Sl 1, p33; rep from *.
Rep the last 2 rows 7 more times for a total
of 8 chain sts at each edge of heel flap.
Turn heel:
Row 1: (RS) Sl 1, k18, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, k to within 1 st of the gap, ssk,
k1, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, p to within 1 st of the gap,
p2tog, p1, turn.
Rep Rows 3 and 4 until all heel sts are
worked—20 heel sts.
Heel gussets: With RS facing knit 20 heel
sts, pick up and knit 8 chain selvedge sts
along side of heel flap, knit across 48 instep
sts, with an empty needle, pick up and knit
8 chain selvedge sts along other side of
heel flap, knit first 10 sts from heel needle
again—84 sts. Adjust sts if necessary so
there are 18 sts each on Needles 1 and 4,
and 24 sts each on Needles 2 and 3.
Rnd 1: On Needle 1, work to last 3 sts,
#4136
Red
#0020 Work twice
Natural
#7562
Green
purl with
appropri-
ate color
pattern
repeat
Cuff
k2tog, k1; on Needles 2 and 3, knit across Dec Rnd 3: *K4, k2tog; rep from *—50 sts.
instep sts; on Needle 4, k1, ssk, knit to end—2 Work 4 rnds even.
sts dec. Dec Rnd 4: *K3, k2tog; rep from *—40 sts.
Rnd 2: Work even in St st. Work 3 rnds even.
Rep the last 2 rnds once more—80 sts total: 16 Dec Rnd 5: *K2, k2tog; rep from *—30 sts.
sts each on Needles 1 and 4. Work 2 rnds even.
Dec Rnd 6: *K1, k2tog; rep from *—20 sts.
FOOT Work 1 rnd even.
Continue even until foot measures 2½" from Dec Rnd 7: *K2tog; rep from *—10 sts rem.
center-back heel. Adjust sts so there are 20 sts Break yarn, thread tail through rem sts, pull
on each needle. snug to close end of toe, and fasten off.
TOE FINISHING
Dec Rnd 1: *K6, k2tog; rep from *—70 sts. Using the tails that rem at the cuff, and
Work 6 rnds even. adding more strands as needed, make a braid
Dec Rnd 2: *K5, k2tog; rep from *—60 sts. as foll: Divide strands into 3 groups of 3
Work 5 rnds even. threads each, 1 of each color. Braid the yarn
KIHNU VITS
Kihnu is an Estonian island. Vits is Estonian for
“hoop” or “band.” In this case, it is a band that
circles the leg of a sock.
Rnd 1: *Knit one contrasting color, knit one main
color; repeat from *.
Rnd 2: Bring both colors to the front as if to purl,
*purl the contrasting color stitch with main color
and purl the main color stitch with contrasting color,
bringing each color under the other every time you change. Repeat from *.

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 into a piece about 4" long. Secure end of braid
with an overhand knot. Attach end of braid
securely to the base of the braid inside the
cuff edge to form a hanging loop. Weave in all
ends. Block under a damp towel.
Nancy Bush is the author of many knitting
books, including the recent Knitted Lace of
Estonia (Interweave, 2008).
Project Photos: Joe Coca
ANNETRELAC
SOCKS
Sandy Beadle
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size 7¼" foot circumference and 9½"
from back of heel to tip of toe. To fit a woman’s
U.S. shoe size 9.
Yarn Schaefer Anne (60% superwash merino,
25% mohair, 15% nylon; 560 yd [512 m]/113 g;
Fingering #1 Super Fine): red/blue/green
variegated, 1 skein.
Needles Size 1 (2.25 mm): set of 4 double-
pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary
to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Marker (m); tapestry needle.
Gauge 20 sts and 25 rows = 2" in St st.
LEG
CO 72 sts. Distribute sts over 3 dpn, place
marker (pm), and join for working in the rnd.
Work in 1×1 (k1, p1) rib for 2". Knit 1 rnd,
dec 24 sts evenly spaced—48 sts rem. Base
triangles: *K2, turn, sl 1, p1, turn, sl 1, k2,
turn, sl 1, p2, turn, sl 1, k3, turn, sl 1, p3, turn,
sl 1, k4, turn, sl 1, p4, turn, sl 1, k5 (do not
turn); rep from * 7 more times—8 triangles,
6 sts each. Turn so WS is facing. First Tier
KA_098-115_FSocks.indd 111
(right-slanting blocks): (WS) Sl 1, p5, **pick
up and purl 6 sts down the side of the triangle,
*turn, sl 1, k5, turn, sl 1, p4, p2tog (1 st from
current triangle and 1 st from next triangle);
rep from * 5 more times—all sts of adjacent
triangle have been used; rep from ** 7 more
times—each space between triangles has
been filled with a block—turn. Second Tier
(left-slanting blocks): (RS) Sl 1, k5, **pick
up and knit 6 sts down left side of the block,
*turn, sl 1, p5, turn, sl 1, k4, ssk (1 st from cur-
rent block and 1 st from next block); rep from
* 5 more times—all sts of adjacent block have
been used; rep from ** 7 more times—each
space between right-slanting blocks has been
filled with a left-slanting block. Turn so WS is
facing. *Rep First Tier (picking up sts along side
of left-slanting blocks, rather than triangles),
then rep Second Tier; rep from * 2 more times
or to desired length. Rep First Tier again—9
tiers of blocks total. Finishing triangles: (RS)
Sl 1, k5, *pick up and knit 6 sts down the left
side of block, turn, sl 1, p5, turn, sl 1, k4, ssk (1
st from current block and 1 st from next block),
turn, sl 1, p4, turn, sl 1, k3, ssk, turn, sl 1, p3,
turn, sl 1, k2, ssk, turn, sl 1, p2, turn, sl 1, k1,
ssk, turn, sl 1, p1, turn, sl 1, ssk, turn, sl 1,
turn, ssk; rep from * 7 more times—each space
between right-slanting blocks has been filled
with a triangle; 48 sts still on needles. Knit 1
rnd, inc 24 sts evenly spaced—72 sts.
HEEL
Distribute sts onto 3 dpn as foll: Needle 1:
36 sts (heel sts); Needles 2 and 3: 18 sts each
(instep sts). Yarn should be positioned to knit
across Needle 1. Work back and forth on 36 sts
of Needle 1 only as foll:
Row 1: (RS) *Sl 1, k1; rep from * to end, turn.
Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, purl to end, turn.
Rep last 2 rows 14 more times, then rep Row 1
once more—31 rows total. Turn heel:
Row 1: (WS) P20, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 2: (RS) Sl 1, k5, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1,
turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, knit to 1 st before gap, k2tog, k1,
turn.
Rep Rows 3 and 4 five more times—22 heel sts
rem. Next row: (WS) Sl 1, purl to 1 st before
gap, p2tog, turn. Next row: (RS) Sl 1, knit to
1 st before gap, k2tog, turn—20 heel sts rem.
Gusset: With an empty needle (now Needle 1)
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS
10192009094718
and RS facing, pick up and knit 18 sts down
the side of heel flap; sl 36 instep sts onto
one needle (now Needle 2); knit the instep
sts; with an empty needle (now Needle 3),
pick up and knit 18 sts along the other side
of heel flap, then k10 from needle holding
heel sts; sl rem 10 heel sts to Needle 1—92
sts total: 28 sts each on Needles 1 and 3, 36
sts on Needle 2. Center of heel is now beg
of rnd.
Rnd 1: Knit.
Rnd 2: Needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog,
k1; Needle 2: knit; Needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to
end—2 sts dec’d.
Rep Rnds 1 and 2 nine more times—72 sts
rem.
FOOT
Work even in St st (knit every rnd) until foot
measures 7½" from back of heel or 2" less
than desired finished length.
TOE
Rnd 1: Needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1;
Needle 2: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog,
k1; Needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end—4 sts
dec’d.
Rnd 2: Knit.
Rep Rnds 1 and 2 twelve more
times—20 sts rem. Knit sts from Needle 1
onto Needle 3. Break yarn, leaving a 12" tail.
With tail threaded on a tapestry needle,
use Kitchener st (see Glossary) to graft toe.
Weave in loose ends.
Sandy Beadle loves knitting socks, entrelac,
and hand-dyed yarn. She currently creates
custom sweater patterns for a local yarn
shop in Berwyn, Pennsylvania.
Project Photos: Joe Hancock
111
10/19/09 9:44:31 AM
 Sock Front
67
65
63
61
59
57
55

TRAVELER’S 53
51
STOCKINGS 49
Nancy Bush 47
45
Skill Level Intermediate 43
41
Finished Size Foot measurement: 7½"
39
around and 9" (23 cm) long. To fit average
37
woman’s foot.
35
Yarn Koigu Premium Merino (100% wool;
33
176 yd [161 m]/50 g; Fingering #1 Super
31
Fine): #2340 sage green, 3 skeins. (Also
29
shown in #2171 denim blue and #2128
27
dark lavender.)
Needles Size 0 (2 mm): set of 5 25

double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if 23

necessary to obtain the correct gauge. 21

Notions Marker (m); tapestry needle. 19

Gauge 18 sts and 28 rnds = 2" in St st 17
worked in the round. 15
13
LEG 11
CO 80 sts over 2 needles held parallel. 9
Remove extra needle. Arrange sts onto 7
4 dpn so that there are 20 sts on each 5
needle. Using the crossover method shown 3
on page 83, join, being careful not to twist 1
sts. Knit 1 rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Knit 1 rnd.
Beg patt: zigzag zigzag

Rnd 1: *K3, yo, k1, yo, k3, sl 1, k2tog,

psso; rep from *. begs at the right side of the sock leg, and
Rnd 2: Knit. beg each rnd with the sock back. Purl 1 rnd, knit

Work Rnds 1 and 2 four more times, for
a total of 10 rnds. Note: In working this
patt, adjust sts on needles as necessary to
work decs. Th is is especially important at
the end of Rnd 2, when you should place
the first st of the next rnd [on Needle 1]
back to the end of Needle 4 to cont patt
keeping zigzag patts as established (i.e., p34
purl
back-of-leg sts, p1, work zigzag patt over 4
sts, p1, p32 front sts, p1, zigzag patt over 4
knit through back loop
sts, p1)—34 sts on sock back; 44 sts on sock
front. Shape leg:
right twist: k2tog and leave on
Rnd 1: K34, p1, zigzag patt over 4 sts, p1, needle, knit first st again, slip
k32, p1, zigzag patt over 4 sts, p1. both sts off needle

as established. Adjust sts if necessary so
there are 20 on each needle. Purl 1 rnd,
dec 2 sts evenly spaced (p2tog at end of
Needle 2 and Needle 4)—78 sts rem.
Work through Rnd 35 of Sock Back and
Sock Front charts, noting that the rnd
Rnd 2: K34, p1, zigzag patt over 4 sts, p1, left twist: knit second st tbl, knit
first st, slip both sts off needle
ssk, k28, k2tog, p1, zigzag patt over 4 sts,
p1—2 sts dec’d. k2tog
Rnds 3–7: K34, p1, zigzag patt over 4 sts, p1,
k30, p1, zigzag patt over 4 sts, p1. ssk
Work Rnds 2–7 a total of 5 times—68 sts

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10192009094748
 Sock Back
rem. Cont in St st, keeping 6-st zigzag patt as
established, until leg measures 8" or desired
total length to heel.
HEEL
Heel flap: *Sl 1, k1; rep from * across 34 sts,
turn. Sl 1, p33. These 34 sts form the heel
fl ap. The rem 34 sts are for the instep and will
be worked later. Cont working the last 2 rows
back and forth on the 34 heel sts for a total
of 34 rows (17 chain sts at each edge), ending
with a WS row. Turn heel: K19, ssk, k1, turn.
Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 1: (RS) Sl 1, knit to 1 st from gap, ssk,
k1, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, purl to 1 st from gap, p2tog, p1.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until all heel sts have been
worked—20 sts rem. Shape gussets: K20
heel sts, with empty needle, pick up and knit
17 sts along right side of heel fl ap, work held
instep sts (keeping 6-st zigzag patt each
side as established), pick up and knit 17 sts
along left side of heel fl ap, k10 from back of
heel—88 sts total: 27 sts each on Needles
1 and 4, 17 sts each on Needles 2 and 3. On
next rnd, work to last 3 sts on Needle 1, k2tog,
k1, work instep sts as established, k1, ssk
at beg of Needle 4, work to end. Work 1 rnd
even, keeping sts as established. Rep the last 2
rnds until there are 17 sts on each of the back
needles (Needles 1 and 4)—68 sts total.
KA_098-115_FSocks.indd 113
BELLS & WHISTLES
35
SOCKS
33
31
29
27
25
23
21
19
17
15 Mona Schmidt
13
11 Skill Level Intermediate
9
7 Finished Size 8" foot circumference and
5 9" long from back of heel to tip of toe. To fit
3 a woman’s U.S. shoe size 9.
1
Yarn Reynolds Whiskey (100% wool;
195 yd [178 m]/50 g; Sportweight #2 Fine):
#98 lavender, 2 balls. Yarn distributed by
FOOT JCA.
Cont as established until foot measures 2" Needles Size 2 (2.75 mm): set of 5
less than desired fi nished length. Work all sts double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if
in St st for ½". necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Markers (m); cable needle (cn);
TOE tapestry needle.
*Work to last 2 sts on needle, k2tog; rep from Gauge 16 sts and 22 rnds = 2" in St st
* to end of rnd—4 sts dec’d. Work 1 rnd even. worked in the rnd.
Rep these 2 rnds until there are 8 sts on each
needle. Then work dec rnd only until 2 sts rem LEG
on each needle (8 sts total). Break yarn, thread CO 68 sts. Divide sts so there are 17 sts on
tail through rem sts, pull snug, and fasten off. each of 4 needles. Place marker (pm) and
join in the rnd, being careful not to twist
FINISHING sts.
Weave in loose ends. Block on sock blockers Rnd 1: *P1, k2, p3, k5, p3, k2, p1; rep from
or under a damp towel. * to end of rnd.
Rep Rnd 1 eleven more times—12 rnds
Nancy Bush is the author of many knitting total. Work Rnds 1–20 of Lace A chart three
books, including the recent Knitted Lace of times, then work Rnds 1–18 again. Work
Estonia (Interweave, 2008). Rnds 1 and 2 of Lace B chart—64 sts rem.
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
HEEL
Working on Needles 1 and 2 only (32 sts),
work Rnds 3–14 of Lace B chart. Note: On
WS rows, always knit the fi rst and last st of
heel fl ap. Next row: (RS) Knit. Next row:
(WS) K1, purl to last st, k1. Rep last 2 rows
5 more times. Turn heel: Cont working
across 32 sts of heel only.
Row 1: (RS) K18, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2: (WS) Sl 1 pwise, p5, p2tog, p1,
turn.
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 113
10/19/09 9:44:36 AM
10192009094803
 Lace A Lace B

13
19

11
17

9
15

7
13

5
11

3
9

1
7

5
k on RS; p on WS k3tog
3

p on RS; k on WS p2tog
1

yo pattern repeat

Row 3: Sl 1 pwise, knit to 1 st before gap,
ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1 pwise, purl to 1 st before gap,
p2tog, p1, turn.
Rep Rows 3 and 4 five more times—18 sts
rem. Gusset: Redistribute heel sts if nec-
essary so there are 9 sts on Needle 1 and
9 sts on Needle 4. K9 sts of Needle 4; rnd
now beg with Needle 1, at center of heel.
Rnd 1: Needle 1: k9, pick up and knit 15
sts along right side of heel fl ap; Needle 2:
work across in patt; Needle 3: work 16
sts in patt, pick up and knit 15 sts along
left side of heel fl ap; Needle 4: knit, then
slip 15 new sts from Needle 3 onto end
of Needle 4—80 sts total: 24 sts each on
Needles 1 and 4, 16 sts each on Needles 2
and 3.
Rnd 2: Needle 1: knit; Needles 2 and 3:
cont in patt; Needle 4: knit.
Rnd 3: Needle 1: knit to last 2 sts, k2tog;
Needles 2 and 3: cont in patt; Needle 4:
ssk, knit to end—2 sts dec’d.
Rep Rnds 2 and 3 seven more times and
at the same time, finish Lace B chart on
Needles 2 and 3, then work instep in St
st—64 sts rem.
FOOT
Cont in St st until foot measures 7¼" from
back of heel, or 1¾" less than total desired
length of foot.
TOE
Rnd 1: *K2, p1, knit to last 2 sts on nee-
k2tog 2/2 RC: sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in back, k2, k2 from cn
ssk 2/2 LC: sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in front, k2, k2 from cn
3/2 RC: sl 3 sts onto cn and hold in back, k2, k3 from cn
dle, p2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles—60 Mona Schmidt lives in Montreal, Quebec, and
sts rem. is the associate director of JCA. Visit her blog
Even-numbered rnds: Knit. www.knitstricken.blogspot.com.
Rnd 3: *K3, p1, knit to last 2 sts on needle,
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan
p2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles—56 sts
rem.
Rnd 5: *K4, p1, knit to last 2 sts on needle,
p2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles—52 sts
rem.
Rnd 7: *K5, p1, knit to last 2 sts on needle,
p2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles—48 sts
rem.
Rnd 9: *K6, p1, knit to last 2 sts on needle,
p2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles—44 sts
rem.
Rnd 11: *K7, p1, knit to last 2 sts on needle,
p2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles—40 sts
rem.
Rnd 13: *Knit to last 2 sts on needle, p2tog;
rep from * for rem 3 needles—36 sts rem.
Rep Rnd 13 seven more times—8 sts rem.
Break yarn, leaving an 8" tail.
FINISHING
With tail threaded on a tapestry needle, draw
tail through rem sts, pull tight, and secure
to WS of sock. Weave in loose ends. Block
lightly.

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10192009094803

WISHBONE
SOCKS
Nancy Bush
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size Leg, 8" to top of heel fl ap; foot,
8¾" from back of heel to tip of toe, 7¾" in
circumference; woman’s medium.
Yarn Louet Gems Fingering Weight (100%
merino wool yarn; 185 yards [169 m]/50 g
skein; Fingering #1 Super Fine): #50 Sage, 2
skeins.
Needles Size 1 (2.25 mm): set of 5 double-
pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary
to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Tapestry needle.
Gauge 16 stitches and 24 rounds = 2" in
St st.
Stitch Guide
P2sso: Slip two stitches knitwise, knit 1,
pass 2 slipped stitches over the knitted stitch.
Wishbone Pattern: (8-st rep)
Rnd 1: P1, ssk, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, k2tog.
Rnd 2: P1, k7.
Rnds 3, 5, and 7: Rep Rnd 1.
Rnds 4, 6, and 8: Rep Rnd 2.
Rnd 9: K1, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo.
Rnd 10: Knit.
Rnd 11: K2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1.
Rnd 12: Knit.
Rnd 13: K3, yo, sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso,
yo, k2.
Rnd 14: Knit.
Rep Rnds 1–14 for patt.
LEG
With the thumb thread doubled, CO 64 sts,
using a double-start cast-on (see Glossary).
Divide sts evenly onto 4 needles, placing 16
sts on each needle. Being careful not to twist
KA_098-115_FSocks.indd 115
k
Wishbone
p
yo
k2tog
ssk
sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso
pattern repeat
the sts, join into a circle. Knit 1 rnd, purl 1
rnd, knit 1 rnd.
Work 14 rnds of wishbone patt 7 times (see
Stitch Guide), working according to written
instructions or chart. On Rnd 14 of last patt
rep, inc 1 st at the end of Needle 3—65 sts
total. Leg should measure about 8" from CO.
HEEL
Knit 16 sts of Needle 1. Turn work. Sl 1, p31,
turn—32 sts on heel needle and 33 sts held
for the instep (these instep sts will not be
worked while you work the heel).
Row 1: (RS) *Sl 1, k1; rep from * 15 more
times, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, p31, turn.
Rep these 2 rows 15 more times—16 chain
sts at each edge of fl ap. Turn Heel:
Row 1: (RS) *Sl 1, k1; rep from * 9 more
times, ssk, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, p8, p2tog, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, *sl 1, k1; rep from * 3 more
times, ssk, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, p8, p2tog, turn.
Rep Rows 3 and 4 nine more times—10 sts
rem on heel needle.
Gusset: Knit 10 heel sts. With an empty
needle, pick up and knit 16 sts down right
side of heel flap. Work across 33 instep sts,
keeping in patt as established, purling the
last st on Needle 3 (this is the st you inc
before beginning the heel fl ap), to create a
mirror image of the instep patt; purl it on
Rnds 1–8 of patt, and knit it on Rnds 9–14 of
patt). With an empty needle, pick up and knit
16 sts up left side of heel fl ap, then k5 from
heel needle—75 sts total: 21 sts on Needle 1,
33 sts divided on Needles 2 and 3, and 21 sts
on Needle 4. Next rnd: Needle 1, knit to last
3 sts, k2tog, k1; Needles 2 and 3, work in patt
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS
10192009094804
13
11
9
7
5
3
1
as established; Needle 4, k1, ssk, knit to
end of rnd—2 sts dec. Work next rnd even,
without dec and keeping in patt. Rep these
2 rnds 4 more times—65 sts rem: 16 sts
on Needle 1, 33 sts divided on Needles 2
and 3, and 16 sts on Needle 4.
FOOT
Continue in patt as established until foot
measures 6¼", or 2½" less than desired
length, ending with Rnd 13 of patt. On
next rnd, knit to last 2 sts of Needle 3,
k2tog, knit to end of rnd—64 sts rem;
16 sts on each needle. Work 4 rnds in
stockinette st.
TOE
Dec rnd: Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts,
k2tog, k1; Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to end of
needle; Needle 3, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog,
k1; Needle 4, k1, ssk, knit to end of rnd—4
sts dec. Work 1 rnd even. Rep these 2 rnds
7 more times—32 sts rem: 8 sts on each
needle. Rep only the dec rnd 6 times—8
sts rem: 2 sts on each needle. Break yarn
and, using the tapestry needle, join the sts
on Needles 1 and 2 to the sts on Needles 3
and 4 using Kitchener stitch (see Glossary).
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends. Block under a damp
towel or on sock blockers.
Nancy Bush is the author of many knitting
books, including the recent Knitted Lace of
Estonia (Interweave, 2008).
Project Photos: Joe Coca
115
10/19/09 9:44:41 AM
 The Grand Plan Mitten Chart
Just in time to knit a slew of mit-
tens for the December gift-giving
season (a grand plan that some-
times fails) and to actually finish
them (a happy success!).
A N N B U D D
All mittens above shown in Brown Sheep
yarn. Left to right: Lamb’s Pride Bulky at 5
sts/inch. Handpaint Originals at 4 sts/inch,
Top of the Lamb Sport at 6 sts/inch, Nature
Spun Worsted at 5 sts/inch, Handpaint
Originals at 4 sts/inch, Top of the Lamb
Sport at 6 sts/inch, Nature Spun Fingering at
7 sts/inch, Handpaint Originals at 4 sts/inch.
For more Grand Plan charts, use Ann Budd’s
The Knitter’s Handy Book of Patterns ($24.95;
Interweave).
116 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_116-117_MittChrt.indd 116
Here is a chart for knitting mittens in six Sheep Nature Spun Worsted (100% wool;
different sizes, child to adult, and four different 245 yd [224 m]/100 g), Brown Sheep Top of
gauges. These mittens don’t have annoying little the Lamb Sport (100% wool; 154 yd
holes between the thumb and the rest of the [141 m]/50 g), Brown Sheep Nature Spun
fingers (a problem with a lot of handknitted Fingering (100% wool; 310 yd [283 m]/50 g).
mittens) because balanced make-one increases Fifty grams of yarn is sufficient to make a
are worked on either side of the thumb gore. pair of mittens in any of the first four sizes;
100 grams are needed for the largest two
Finished Size 5½ (6¼, 7, 7¾, 8½, 9½)" hand sizes.
circumference. To fit 2 yr (4 yr, 8 yr, 12 yr, Needles Bulky—size 9 (5.5 mm); worsted—
woman’s, man’s) hand. size 7 (4.5 mm); sport—size 5 (3.75 mm);
Yarn Brown Sheep Handpaint Originals fingering—size 3 (3.25 mm): set of 4 double-
(70% mohair, 30% wool; 88 yd [80 m]/50 g), pointed (dpn). Adjust needle sizes if neces-
Brown Sheep Lamb’s Pride Bulky (85% wool, sary to obtain the correct gauge.
15% mohair; 125 yd [114 m]/100 g), Brown Notions Marker (m); tapestry needle.
To use this chart
Follow the numbers that match your gauge (in
parentheses at left edge of chart) and size. For
extra-thick mittens, work bulky yarn at 4–5 stitches
to the inch, worsted yarn at 6, or sport yarn at 7,
adjusting needle size accordingly.
10/19/09 9:46:12 AM
10192009094804
 Approximate finished circumference: Place thumb sts on Length of waste Thumb
5½ 6¼ 7 7¾ 8½ 9¾ " yarn. Using the backward-loop method Place held thumb sts onto 3 dpn, pick
(see Glossary), CO 1 st over gap, rejoin, up and knit 1 st over gap, and join:
Cast on: and knit to end. (4) 8 10 12 14 16 18
(4) 20 24 24 28 32 36 sts. Total sts: (5) 10 12 14 16 18 20
(5) 24 28 32 36 40 44 (4) 21 25 27 31 33 37 (6) 12 14 16 20 22 24
(6) 32 36 40 44 48 56 (5) 27 31 35 39 43 47 (7) 14 16 20 22 24 28
(7) 36 44 48 52 60 64 (6) 33 37 43 47 51 57 sts total.
(7) 37 45 49 55 61 67
Work k2, p2 rib for: Work even until thumb measures to
1½ 2 2¼ 2½ 3 3" Work even until piece measures to middle of thumbnail or about (from
top of little finger or about: pick-up rnd):
On next rnd, change to St st and inc 1 1 1¼ 1½ 1¾ 2 " ½ 1 1¼ 1¼ 1¾ 1¾ "
evenly spaced:
(4) 1 1 3 3 1 1 sts.
less than desired total length; piece Shape top
should measure from beg of St st about: Rnd 1:
(5) 3 3 3 3 3 3
3 3½ 4 5½ 5¾ 6½ " (4) [K1 (1, 2, 3, 3, 4), k2tog] 2 times,
(6) 1 1 3 3 3 1
k0 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4), k2tog.
(7) 1 1 1 3 1 3
On next rnd, dec evenly:
(5) [K1 (2, 3, 3, 4, 5), k2tog] 2 times,
Total sts: (4) 1 1 3 3 1 1 sts.
k2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 4), k2tog.
(4) 21 25 27 31 33 37 (5) 3 3 3 3 3 3
(6) [K2 (3, 3, 5, 5, 6), k2tog] 2 times,
(5) 27 31 35 39 43 47 (6) 1 1 3 3 3 1
k2 (2, 4, 4, 6, 6), k2tog.
(6) 33 37 43 47 51 57 (7) 1 1 1 3 1 3 (7) [K3 (3, 5, 5, 6, 7), k2tog] 2 times,
(7) 37 45 49 55 61 67 Total sts: k2 (4, 4, 6, 6, 8), k2tog.
(4) 20 24 24 28 32 36 Rnd 2: Knit.
Knit even for: (5) 24 28 32 36 40 44 Dec 3 sts (working 1 less knit st bet
(4) 2 more rnds.
(6) 32 36 40 44 48 56 decs) every other rnd in this manner:
(5) 3 (4) 0 1 1 1 2 2
(7) 36 44 48 52 60 64
(6) 3 (5) 1 1 2 2 2 2
(7) 4
Shape top
(6) 1 1 2 2 3 3
Rnd 1:
(7) 1 1 2 2 3 3
Shape gusset (4) *K3 (4, 4, 5, 6, 7), k2tog; rep from *.
more time(s).
Rnd 1: Knit across: (5) *K4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9), k2tog; rep from *.
(4) 10 12 13 15 16 18 sts. (6) *K6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 12), k2tog; rep from *.
Then dec 3 sts every rnd in this manner:
(5) 13 15 17 19 21 23 (7) *K7 (9, 10, 11, 13, 14), k2tog; rep from *.
(4) 0 0 0 1 0 1
(6) 16 18 21 23 25 28 Rnd 2: Knit.
(5) 0 0 0 1 1 2
(7) 18 22 24 27 30 33
Dec 4 sts (working 1 less knit st bet decs)
(6) 0 1 1 2 1 2
every other rnd in this manner until:
place marker (pm), M1L (see Glossary), (7) 1 1 2 2 2 3
(4) 12 16 16 16 16 20
k1, M1R, pm, knit to end. time(s).
(5) 16 20 20 20 20 24
Slip markers on all rnds.
(6) 24 24 28 28 28 28
Rnd 2: Knit. Total sts:
Rnd 3: Knit to m, M1L, knit to next m, (7) 24 32 32 28 36 36
sts rem. (4) 5 4 6 5 7 6
M1R, knit to end.
Then dec 4 sts every rnd until: (5) 4 6 5 4 6 5

Rep Rnds 2 and 3 until there are: (4) 4 8 8 8 8 8 (6) 6 5 4 5 7 6

(4) 7 9 11 13 15 17 (5) 8 8 8 8 8 8 (7) 5 7 5 7 6 7

(5) 9 11 13 15 17 19 (6) 8 8 8 8 8 8 Draw tail through rem sts, pull tight,

(6) 11 13 15 19 21 23 (7) 8 8 8 8 8 8 and fasten to inside. Weave in loose
(7) 13 15 19 21 23 27 sts rem. Break off yarn, thread tail through ends.
thumb sts bet markers. rem sts, pull tight, fasten to inside.

Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 117

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10192009094804
 M I T TS a nd
GLOV ES
Wear for warmth. Wear for fashion. Knit
cuffs to wear under a jacket. Knit mitts to
wear over sleeves or as sleeves.

SUBWAY MITTENS
by Colleen Meagher
YARN Cascade 220
Page 124

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10192009095254
 CORNFLOWER MITTS
by Deborah Newton
YARN Jade Sapphire Mongolian Cashmere 6-ply
Page 124

Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 119

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10192009095254
 MOSAIC MITTS
by Sandy Cushman
YARN Plymouth Galway Worsted
Page 125

ALPACA GLOVES
by Leslie Scanlon
YARN Classic Elite Inca Alpaca
and Romance
Page 126

KEEP THEM WARM WRISTLETS

by Susan Strawn
YARN Knit Picks Gloss Sock Yarn,
distributed by Crafts Americana
Page 127

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10192009095255
 THE POINT ABOUT CUFFS
by Vicki Square
YARN Filatura di Crosa Baby Kid Extra,
distributed by Tahki Stacy Charles
Page 128

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10192009095256
 JE SUIS JOLIE MITTS
by Clara Parkes
YARN Tahki Stacy Charles Jolie
Page 128

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10192009095256
 LAYERED TURKISH GLOVES
by Mari Lynn Patrick
YARN Alchemy Yarns Monarch
Page 129

KNIT CUFFS WITH A CABLE TWIST

by Deborah Pulliam
YARN Dale of Norway Baby Ull
Page 131

FINGERLESS MITTS
by Deborah Newton
YARN Filatura di Crosa Aiko, distributed by
Tahki Stacy Charles
Page 131

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10192009095257

SUBWAY
MITTENS
Colleen Meagher
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size 8" hand circumference and
10½" long from cuff CO to tip of fingers. To
fit a woman’s medium to large hand.
Yarn Cascade 220 (100% wool; 220 yd
[201 m]/100 g; Worsted #4 Medium):
#4008 maroon, 1 skein.
Needles Sizes 5 (3.5 mm) and 7 (4.5 mm):
double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if
necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Markers (m); one ¾" button;
tapestry needle.
Gauge 20 sts and 28 rows = 4" in St st in
the rnd on larger needles.
MITTEN
Cuff: With smaller dpn, CO 40 sts. Place
marker (pm) and join for working in the
rnd. Next rnd: *K1, p1; rep from * around.
Next rnd: *K1 through back loop (k1tbl),
p1; rep from * around. Rep last 2 rows until
piece measures 3" from CO. Hand: Change
to larger dpn. Knit 1 rnd. Thumb gusset:
K19, pm, M1L (see Glossary), k1, M1R (see
Glossary), pm, knit to end—2 sts inc’d.
Cont in St st, inc 2 sts between m in this
manner every 3 rows 4 more times, then
every 4 rows 1 time—13 gusset sts. Next
rnd: Knit to first gusset m, remove m, place
13 gusset sts on a piece of waste yarn, use
the backward-loop method (see Glossary)
to CO 1 st over gap, remove second m,
knit to end of rnd—40 sts rem for hand.
Work even in St st in the rnd for 6", or
until knitting reaches top of pinky finger.
Shape top: *K8, k2tog; rep from * 3 more
times—36 sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. Next rnd:
*K7, k2tog; rep from * 3 more times—32
124 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_118-132-MGs.indd 124
sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. Next rnd: *K6, k2tog; rep
from * 3 more times—28 sts rem. Knit 1 rnd.
Cont to dec every other rnd in this manner
until 8 sts rem. Break yarn and draw through
rem sts. Secure tail to WS of mitten. Thumb:
Transfer 13 held sts to larger dpn, distributing
them evenly over 3 needles. Join yarn, pick
up and knit 1 st in gap above thumb sts, then
knit around all sts and join for working in the
rnd—14 sts total. Work in St st until thumb
measures 3½" or desired length to top of
thumb. Shape thumb:
Rnd 1: K5, [k2tog] 2 times, knit to end—
12 sts rem.
Rnd 2: *Ssk, k2, k2tog; rep from * 1 time—8
sts rem.
Rnd 3: Knit.
Rnd 4: K3, [k2tog] 2 times, k1—6 sts rem.
Rnd 5: K1, [k2tog] 2 times, k1—4 sts rem.
Break yarn and thread through rem sts. Secure
tail to WS.
FINISHING
Transit card pocket: Measure the size of
your transit card. Pocket shown was designed
for a 2⅛" × 3⅜" card. If needed, adjust pocket
directions to fit your card. Pocket: With larger
dpn, CO 12 sts. Work in St st in rows for 3½".
BO all sts. Flap: With larger dpn, CO 14 sts.
Next row: (RS) Knit. Next row: (WS) K2,
p10, k2. Rep last 2 rows 4 more times. Cont
garter st edges and dec as foll:
Row 1: (RS) K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog,
k2—2 sts dec’d.
Row 2: (WS) K2, purl to last 2 sts, k2.
10192009095257
Rep last 2 rows 2 more times—8 sts rem.
Buttonhole:
Row 1: (RS) K2, BO 4 sts, k2.
Row 2: (WS) K2, use the backward-loop
method to CO 4 sts, k2.
Work 1 WS row in patt. BO all sts. Sew bottom
edge of pocket to top of hand of right mitten.
Use mattress st (see Glossary) to sew sides
of pocket in place. Sew flap to mitten about
½" above top of pocket. Sew button to pocket
opposite buttonhole. Weave in loose ends.
Colleen Meagher designed these mittens for
Boston’s transit system pass. More recently
she’s moved to New York City, where she can
enjoy much longer subway rides.
Project Photos: Joe Hancock
CORNFLOWER
MITTS
Deborah Newton
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size 8" hand circumference and
8" long.
Yarn Jade Sapphire Mongolian Cashmere
6-ply (100% Cashmere, 150 yd [137 m]/55 g;
Worsted #4 Medium): #014 hydrangea.
Needles Size 8 (5 mm): set of 5 double-
pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary
to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.
Gauge 24 sts and 28 rnds = 4" in rib patt
worked in the rnd.
Stitch Guide
C2B: Slip 2 sts onto cn and hold in back, k2,
k2 from cn.
C2F: Slip 2 sts onto cn and hold in front, k2,
k2 from cn.
10/19/09 9:49:19 AM

RIGHT MITT
CO 48 sts. Divide sts evenly over 4 dpn. Place
marker (pm) for beg of rnd and join for work-
ing in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts.
Rnds 1, 2, and 3: *K1, p1; rep from * to end
of rnd.
Even-Numbered Rnds 4–18: P1, [k2, p2,
k4, p2] 2 times, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st,
p1.
Rnd 5: P1, [k2, p2, C2B (see Stitch Guide),
p2] 2 times, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1.
Rnds 7, 9, and 11: P1, [k2, p2, k2, yo, k2tog,
p2] 2 times, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1.
Rnd 13: P1, [k2, p2, C2F (see Stitch Guide),
p2] 2 times, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1.
Rnds 15, 17, and 19: P1, [k2, p2, ssk, yo, k2,
p2] 2 times, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1.
Rep Rows 4–19 two more times and at the
same time beg thumb gusset on Rnd 13 of
the second rep as foll:
Rnd 13: Work 27 sts in patt, pm, p1, M1 (see
Glossary), p1, pm, work in patt to end.
Rnd 14: Work in patt to m, sl m, p1, k1, p1,
sl m, work in patt to end.
Rnd 15: Work in patt to m, sl m, purl into
front and knit into back of next st, k1, knit
into front and purl into back of next st, sl m,
work to end in patt—5 sts between m.
Rnd 16: Work in patt to m, sl m, p1, k3, p1,
sl m, work in patt to end.
Cont in this manner, inc 1 st after fi rst m
and 1 st before second m every other rnd,
and working sts just inside m as purl sts and
rest of gusset as knit sts, until there are 17
sts between m, ending with Rnd 12 of third
KA_118-132-MGs.indd 125
rep of patt. Next rnd: (Rnd 13 of patt) Work
in patt to m, remove m, p1, place next 15 sts
on holder, p1, remove m, work in patt to end.
Complete last rep of patt. Next rnd: *K1, p1;
rep from * to end. Rep last row once more.
BO all sts in rib. Thumb: Divide 15 thumb
gusset sts over 3 dpn. At beg of rnd, pick up
and knit 2 sts in palm at base of thumb—17
sts. Join for working in the rnd. Work in St st
(knit every rnd) until thumb measures ¾" or
desired length. Next rnd: Knit, dec 1 st—16
sts rem. Work 2 rnds in k1, p1 rib. BO all sts
in rib.
LEFT MITT
Work same as right mitt, but place thumb
gusset as foll: On Rnd 13 of the 2nd rep, work
43 sts in patt, pm, p1, M1, p1, pm, work in
patt to end. Work gusset and remainder of
mitt as for right mitt.
FINISHING
With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle,
weave in loose ends.
Deborah Newton lives in Providence, Rhode
Island, and has just completed a book of
cabled sweater patterns for Leisure Arts.
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS
10192009095257
MOSAIC
MITTS
Sandy Cushman
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size About 8" hand circumfer-
ence and 10" long. To fit an adult.
Yarn Plymouth Galway Worsted (100%
wool; 230 yd [210 m]/100 g; Worsted #4
Medium): #127 sage (A), #178 teal (B),
and #117 fuchsia (C), 1 ball each. Also
shown in #173 red (A), #92 purple (B) and
#117 fuchsia (C).
Needles Size 4 (3.5 mm): set of 5
double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if
necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Notions Markers (m); tapestry needles;
small amount of waste yarn.
Gauge 24 sts and 32 rows = 4" in slip-
stitch patt, worked in the rnd.
NOTES
• Both mitts are worked the same.
• purl with yarn
All slipped stitches are slipped as if to
in back (wyb).
• are worked with color
Slip-Stitch chart Rnds 1, 2, 5, and 6
A; Rnds 3, 4, 7,
and 8 are worked with color C.
MITT
Cuff: With A, CO 40 sts. Distribute sts
evenly onto 4 dpn, place marker (pm)
before last st of rnd, and join for working
in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts.
Work k2, p2 rib for 1 rnd. Join B and work
2 rnds rib as established. Cont in rib,
alternating 2 rnds each of A and B until
a total of 11 stripes have been worked,
ending having just completed 2 rnds of
A—22 rnds total. With B, work 1 more
rnd rib. Next rnd: *K5, M1 (see Glos-
sary); rep from * 7 more times—48 sts.
125
10/19/09 9:49:25 AM

Slip Stitch
C knit to end—2 sts inc’d between m. Rep
7
A the last 3 rnds 3 (4, 5) more times—13 (15,
5
3 C
1 A
knit with A
sl 1 A wyb
knit with C
sl 1 C wyb
pattern repeat
Hand: With C, knit 1 rnd. Join A and
work Slip-Stitch chart for 11 rnds, or un-
til piece measures desired length to base
of thumb. Shape gusset: Cont in patt as
established, work 24 sts, pm, M1, work
to end—49 sts. Next rnd: Work 25 sts,
M1, pm, work to end—50 sts; 2 gusset
sts between m. Work 1 rnd even in patt.
Next rnd: Work in patt, inc 1 st after
fi rst gusset m and inc 1 st before second
gusset m—2 sts inc’d. Cont to inc 1 st
each edge of gusset in this manner every
other rnd, working gusset sts in striped
St st (not slip-stitch patt), until there are
16 gusset sts between m. Place 16 gusset
sts on waste yarn to work later for thumb,
remove m, rejoin into a rnd, and cont
working rem 48 hand sts in charted patt
until piece measures 9" from CO edge.
Top ribbing: Cut off C. Join B and knit
1 rnd. Work 1 rnd in k2, p2 rib, dec 8 sts
evenly spaced as foll: *K2, p2, k2tog, k1,
p2, k1, k2tog, p2, k2, p2tog, p1, k2, p1,
p2tog; rep from * once more—40 sts rem.
Cont in rib, work 2 rnds A then work 2
rnds B. With B, BO all sts. Thumb: Place
16 held gusset sts on 3 dpn and join for
working in the rnd. *Knit 2 rnds C, then
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KA_118-132-MGs.indd 126
knit 2 rnds A; rep from * until thumb mea-
sures 1" or ½" less than desired total length.
Change to B and knit 1 rnd. Work 3 rnds k2,
p2 rib. BO all sts.
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends. Block lightly.
Sandy Cushman designs knitwear from her
mountain home in Durango, Colorado.
Project Photos: William Thuss
ALPACA
GLOVES
Leslie Scanlon
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size 6½ (7, 8)" hand circumfer-
ence. To fit a woman’s small (medium, large)
hand.
Yarn Classic Elite Inca Alpaca (100% alpaca;
109 yd [100 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium):
#1163 morning glory (pink; MC), 2 skeins.
Classic Elite Romance (100% cashmere;
125 yd [114 m]/50 g): #10831 coral (CC), 1
ball.
Needles Hand and fi ngers—size 3 (3.25
mm): set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Cuff —
size 6 (4 mm): set of 4 dpn. Adjust needle
size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Markers (m); stitch holders or
waste yarn; tapestry needle.
Gauge 12½ sts and 16 rnds = 2" in St st
worked in the rnd on smaller needles.
NOTES
• Both gloves are worked identically and
can be worn on either hand.
10192009095258
GLOVES
Hand: With MC and smaller dpn, CO 41
(44, 50) sts. Divide sts as evenly as possible
on 3 dpn, place marker (pm), and join for
working in the rnd, being careful not to
twist sts. Work even in St st (knit every
rnd) until piece measures 1 (1¾, 2)" from
CO. Thumb gusset: Knit into front and
back of same st (k1f&b), k1, k1f&b, pm,
knit to end of rnd—2 sts inc’d; 5 gusset
sts between m. Knit 2 rnds even. Inc rnd:
K1f&b, knit to 1 st before gusset m, k1f&b,
17) gusset sts between m; 51 (56, 64) sts
total. Next rnd: Place 13 (15, 17) gusset sts
on holder or waste yarn to be worked later
for thumb, use the backward-loop method
(see Glossary) to CO 3 sts over gap, knit to
end of rnd—41 (44, 50) sts. Upper hand:
Work even until piece measures 1¾ (2, 2¼)"
from CO sts at top of thumb gusset. Little
finger: Note: The fi ngers are worked one
at a time, starting with the little fi nger; the
remaining hand sts are placed on holders
for the palm and back of hand. These sts
will be transferred to the needles as they
are needed for the other fi ngers. K16 (17,
19) and place sts just worked on holder or
waste yarn, k9 (10, 12) sts for little fi nger,
place rem 16 (17, 19) sts on holder or waste
yarn. Use the backward-loop method to
CO 3 sts at end of little fi nger sts—12 (13,
15) sts total for little fi nger. Distribute sts
as evenly as possible on 3 dpn, pm, and
join for working in the rnd. Work even
until fi nger measures about 2 (2¼, 2½)", or
10/19/09 9:49:31 AM
 about ¼" less than desired total length.
Shape tip: [K2tog, k1] 4 (4, 5) times, k0 (1,
0)—8 (9, 10) sts rem. Next rnd: [K2tog] 4
(4, 5) times, k0 (1, 0)—4 (5, 5) sts rem. Cut
yarn, thread tail on a tapestry needle, draw
through rem sts 2 times, and fasten off to
inside. Ring fi nger: Slip the next 5 (5, 6)
sts from each holder onto a dpn—10 (10,
12) sts on 2 dpn. With RS facing, join yarn
to beg of sts CO at base of little fi nger. Pick
up and knit 3 sts at base of the little fi nger,
k5 (5, 6) from dpn, use the backward-loop
method to CO 3 sts, k5 (5, 6) from dpn—16
(16, 18) sts. Distribute sts as evenly as
possible on 3 dpn. Pm and join for working
in the rnd. Work even until fi nger measures
about 2½ (2¾, 3)", or about ¼" less than
desired total length. Shape tip: [K2tog,
k1] 5 (5, 6) times, k1 (1, 0)—11 (11, 12) sts
rem. Next rnd: [K2tog] 5 (5, 6) times, k1
(1, 0)—6 sts rem for all sizes. Finish as for
little fi nger. Middle fi nger: Slip the next 5
(5, 6) sts from each holder onto a dpn. Join
yarn to beg of sts CO at base of ring fi nger.
Pick up and knit 3 sts at base of ring fi nger,
k5 (5, 6) from dpn, use the backward-loop
method to CO 4 sts, k5 (5, 6) from dpn—17
(17, 19) sts. Distribute sts as evenly as
possible on 3 dpn. Pm and join for working
in the rnd. Work even until fi nger measures
2¾ (3, 3¼)", or about ¼" less than desired
total length. Shape tip: [K2tog, k1] 5 (5, 6)
times, [k2tog] 1 (1, 0) time(s), k0 (0, 1)—11
(11, 13) sts rem. Next rnd: [K2tog] 5 (5, 6)
times, k1 (1, 1)—6 (6, 7) sts rem. Finish as
for little fi nger. Index finger: Slip rem 12
(14, 14) sts onto 2 dpn—6 (7, 7) sts on each
needle. Join yarn to beg of sts CO at base of
middle fi nger. Pick up and knit 4 sts from
base of middle fi nger, k12 (14, 14)—16 (18,
18) sts. Distribute sts as evenly as possible
on 3 dpn. Pm and join for working in the
rnd. Work even until fi nger measures 2½
(2¾, 3)", or about ¼" less than desired total
length. Shape tip: [K2tog, k1] 5 (6, 6)
times, k1 (0, 0)—11 (12, 12) sts rem. Next
rnd: [K2tog] 5 (5, 6) times, k1 (0, 0)—6 sts
rem for all sizes. Finish as for little fi nger.
Thumb: Place 13 (15, 17) held thumb sts on
2 dpn. With a third dpn, pick up and knit
3 sts from sts CO for thumb gap—16 (18,
20) sts. Distribute sts as evenly as possible
on 3 dpn. Pm and join for working in the
KA_118-132-MGs.indd 127
rnd. Work even until thumb measures 2
(2¼, 2½)", or about ¼" less than desired
total length. Shape tip: [K2tog, k1] 5 (6, 6)
times, [k2tog] 0 (0, 1) time(s), k1 (0, 0)—11
(12, 13) sts rem. Next rnd: [K2tog] 5 (6, 6)
times, k1 (0, 1)—6 (6, 7) sts rem. Finish as
for little fi nger. Cuff: With larger dpn and
CC, CO 17 (17, 19) sts. Work in rows as foll:
Row 1: (RS) K2 (2, 3), slip 1 st purlwise
with yarn in back, knit to end.
Row 2: (WS) Purl.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until cuff measures 7
(7½, 8½)" from CO. Slip a third dpn into the
base of each CO st to pick up 17 (17, 19) sts;
these sts are just picked up without working
them, not picked up and knitted. Fold the
cuff in half with the RS of the fabric on the
inside and WS facing you. Use the three-
needle method (see Glossary) to BO the beg
and end of cuff tog. The slipped st near the
beg of the RS rows produces a slightly rolled
fi nished edge that will be at the bottom of
the glove when pieces are sewn tog.
FINISHING
Place plain selvedge edge (without the rolled
fi nish) of cuff and CO edge of glove together
with RS of fabrics touching and BO cuff
seam centered on the little fi nger. With
yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew CO
edge of glove to selvedge of cuff. Weave in
loose ends. Block lightly.
Leslie Scanlon lives and knits in Maine.
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS
10192009095258
KEEP THEM
WARM
WRISTLETS
Susan Strawn
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size About 10½" long and 4" in
circumference, relaxed; will stretch to fit 8"
circumference hand.
Yarn Knit Picks Gloss Sock Yarn (70% me-
rino wool, 30% silk yarn; 220 yd [201 m]/
50 g; Fingering #1 Super Fine): #23872
woodland sage, 1 skein. Yarn distributed by
Crafts Americana.
Needles Size 2 (2.75 mm): set of 4 double-
pointed (dpn). Adjust size if necessary to
obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Tapestry needle.
Gauge 26 sts and 25 rnds = 2" in k2, p2 rib,
relaxed.
NOTES
• Rib-knitted in the round for a snug fit
without shaping, the wristlet is seamless
with a thumb opening made by knitting
back and forth for 2".
WRIST
CO 156 sts. Divide sts evenly onto 3
needles. Being careful not to twist the sts,
join into a circle. Knit 10 rnds. Next rnd:
*K2tog, k1, pass k2tog over knit st; rep from
* around—52 sts rem. Next rnd: *K2, p2;
rep from * around. Work even in rib for 7".
Thumb opening: K1. (Knitting 1 st will
produce a thumb opening with a knit st bor-
der on each side. Turn work. Working back
and forth in rows, work in rib as established
for 1½", ending with a RS row.
HAND
With RS facing, join into a circle. Work
127
10/19/09 9:49:34 AM

in k2, p2 rib as established for 1½". Picot
BO: BO 2 sts. *Sl 1 st back to left-hand
needle; using knitted CO (insert right-hand
needle into st on left-hand needle, draw
yarn through but do not drop old st, place
new st onto left-hand needle), CO 3 sts, BO
5 sts; rep from * until all sts are BO.
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends.
Susan Strawn teaches classes about textiles
at Dominican University in River Forest, Il-
linois. She is the author of Knitting America:
A Glorious Heritage from Warm Socks
to High Art (Voyageur Press, 2007) and a
member of PieceWork’s editorial advisory
panel.
Project Photos: Joe Coca
THE POINT
ABOUT CUFFS
Vicki Square
Skill Level Easy
Finished Size About 6" wrist circumfer-
ence and 8" long. Ribbing at wrist will
stretch to about 8" circumference.
Yarn Filatura di Crosa Baby Kid Extra
(80% mohair kid, 20% nylon; 268 yd
[245 m]/25 g; Sportweight #2 Fine): #310
128 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com
KA_118-132-MGs.indd 128
off white, 1 ball. Yarn distributed by Tahki
Stacy Charles.
Needles Size 6 (4 mm): set of 4 or 5 double-
pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary
to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Tapestry needle.
Gauge 24 sts and 19 rnds = 4" in lace patt
worked in the rnd.
Stitch Guide
Lace Pattern: (multiple of 6 sts)
Rnd 1: *K1, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo;
rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 2: Knit.
Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for patt.
CUFF
Loosely CO 72 sts. Divide sts evenly onto
3 dpn (24 sts on each needle) and join for
working in the rnd, being careful not to twist
sts. Rep Rnds 1 and 2 of lace patt (see Stitch
Guide) until piece measures 5½" from CO,
ending with Rnd 2. Note: Be careful that
you do not accidentally drop any yo that
occurs at the end of a needle or at the end of
the rnd. Dec rnd: *K2tog; rep from * to end
of rnd—36 sts rem. Next rnd: *K2, p2; rep
from * to end of rnd. Cont in k2, p2 rib as
established until ribbed section measures 2½"
and cuff measures about 8" from CO. Loosely
BO all sts.
FINISHING
Weave in loose ends. Block lightly if desired as
foll: Generously spritz inside and outside of
lace portion with a fine mist. Lay cuff on iron-
ing board or padded surface with scalloped
edges of both layers aligned. Pin CO edge to
about 7" wide, then pin out each scallop point,
pulling gently downward to extend points and
to expand and even out the lace patt. When
scallop points have been pinned, coax the
valley between pairs of points upward toward
10192009095258
the ribbing to exaggerate zigzag lower edge,
and pin valleys in place. Allow upper section
of lace cuff to narrow gradually to width of
ribbing. Allow to air-dry completely before
removing pins.
Vicki Square is the author of Knit Kimono, Folk
Bags, Folk Hats, and that essential little book,
The Knitter’s Companion, which she revised
in 2006.
This project was excerpted from Lace Style
(Interweave, 2007).
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan
JE SUIS
JOLIE MITTS
Clara Parkes
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size 7" hand circumference and 9"
long.
Yarn Tahki Stacy Charles Jolie (70% angora,
30% wool; 108 yd [99 m]/25 g; Worsted #4
Medium): #5016 pale green, 1 skein.
Needles Size 6 ( mm): set of 5 double-pointed
needles. Adjust needle size if necessary to
obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Stitch markers (m); tapestry needle;
stitch holder; 2 beads (optional).
Gauge 25 sts and 32 rows = 4" in rib patt in
the rnd.
NOTES
• Mitts are worked in the round as a tube,
with a gusset left open for the thumbs.
After finishing the mitt, stitches are picked
up around the thumb opening and worked
for a short thumb.
• Use contrasting markers for thumb gus-
10/19/09 9:49:34 AM

set, to distinguish thumb markers from
end-of-round marker.
MITTS (MAKE 2)
CO 44 sts. Distribute sts onto 3 needles as foll:
16 sts each on 2 needles, 12 sts on 3rd needle.
Place marker (pm) at end of sts. Join for work-
ing in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts.
Rnd 1: *K3, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rep Rnd 1 until piece measures 5½".
Thumb Gusset:
Rnd 1: K3, pm, M1, k1, M1, pm, work in
established rib to end. Sl m every rnd.
Rnd 2: K3, knit all sts between m, work in rib
to end.
Rnd 3: K3, M1, knit to second m, M1, work in
rib to end.
Rep Rnds 2 and 3 until you have 13 sts
between m. Rep Rnd 2 again. Next rnd: K3,
use the backward-loop method to CO 5 sts,
put the 13 sts between m on holder, work in
rib to end. Helpful hint: A piece of smooth
contrasting yarn is more flexible for holding
the sts.
Next row: [K5, p1] 2 times, work in rib to end.
Next row: K3, ssk, p1, k2tog, k3, p1, work in
rib to end. Next row: [K4, p1] 2 times, work in
rib to end. Next row: K2, ssk, p1, k2tog, k2,
p1, work in rib to end. Next row: *K3, p1; rep
from * to end. Cont in rib until piece measures
9" from CO. BO all sts. Thumb: Divide 13 sts
from holder onto 2 double-pointed needles.
With third needle, pick up and knit 5 sts
across top of thumb opening. Knit 5 rnds. BO
all sts.
FLOWER (OPTIONAL)
CO 12 sts, leaving a 6" tail.
Row 1: (RS) Knit into front and back loop of
all sts—24 sts.
Row 2: (WS) Purl.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 two more times—96 sts.
KA_118-132-MGs.indd 129
BO all sts. The work will form a corkscrew. To
form the rosette, simply pinch the inner cor-
ner between thumb and forefinger and rotate
the work until you get the desired results. You
can make it as tight or open as you like. To
secure the rosette, thread the CO tail through
a tapestry needle and pass the needle through
all layers of the rosette, then secure it to the
top of your mitt. Don’t tug the tail too tight.
For extra detail, string a bead through the CO
tail before securing it into the rosette. Be sure
to choose a bead with a large enough hole to
accommodate the yarn. Weave in ends.
Clara Parkes is the publisher of www.Knitters
Review.com and author of The Knitter’s Book
of Yarn and The Knitter’s Book of Wool (Potter
Craft, 2007 and 2009, respectively). She
frequently contributes to Interweave Knits
and Twist Collective.
Project Photos: Ken Frantz
LAYERED TURKISH
GLOVES
Mari Lynn Patrick
Skill Level Experienced
Finished Size 7 (7¾)" hand circumference;
to fit a woman’s medium (large) hand. Gloves
shown measure 7¾".
Yarn Alchemy Yarns Monarch (70% cashmere,
30% silk; 156 yds [143 m]/40 g; Fingering #1
Super Fine). #23E good earth (gray-green),
#110M amber (gold), #58M Joshua tree
(orange), #56E evergreen (dark green), #52E
two rock (light brown), #09M pewter (silver),
one ball each.
Needles Size 2 (2.75 mm): straight and set
of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size
if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS
10202009131443
Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle.
Gauge 32 sts and 44 rnds = 4" in St st.
Stitch Guide
Sk2p: Sl 2 sts individually kwise, k1, pass
the 2 slipped sts over.
GLOVES
Cuff: With olive, CO 65 (73) sts onto 1 dpn.
Divide sts onto 3 dpn so that there are 22
(24) sts each on Needles 1 and 3, and 21 (25)
sts on Needle 2. Place marker (pm) and join,
being careful not to twist sts. K1, *yo, k2,
sk2p, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Slip m on each rnd. Knit 1 rnd. On next rnd,
dec 1 st on Needle 1 (2)—64 (72) sts rem: 21
(24) sts each on Needles 1 and 2, and 22 (24)
sts on Needle 3. Knit 9 (7) rnds. Dec rnd:
K30 (34), k2tog, pm, k30 (34), k2tog—62
(70) sts rem. [Knit 9 (7) rnds. Dec rnd: Knit
to 2 sts before first m, k2tog, knit to last
2 sts, k2tog] 3 (5) times—56 (60) sts rem.
Work even until piece measures 5" from beg.
Reposition sts if necessary so there are 19
(20) sts each on Needles 1 and 3, and 18 (20)
sts on Needle 2. Thumb gore: Knit across
sts of Needles 1 and 2, k4 sts of Needle 3
(15 [16] sts rem on Needle 3), pm, [k1f&b]
2 times, pm, knit to end of rnd—58 (62)
sts. [Work 2 rnds even. Next rnd: Knit to
first m, k1f&b, knit to 1 st before next m,
k1f&b, knit to end] 7 times—18 sts bet m;
72 (76) sts total. Knit 1 rnd. Next rnd: Knit
to first m, remove m, place 18 thumb sts
onto a length of contrasting yarn, remove
second m, using the backward-loop method
(see Glossary), CO 1 st, pm, CO 1 st, rejoin
and knit to end—56 (60) sts. Work even
until piece measures about 4½ (5)" from beg
of thumb gore, or desired length to base of
fingers.
FINGERS
Index finger: Work to 8 sts before m at
center of thumb, with separate needle k16,
CO 2 sts (18 index finger sts), and sl rem 40
(44) sts to waste yarn to be worked later.
Divide index finger sts evenly onto 3 dpn
and join. Knit every rnd until finger mea-
sures 2¾ (3)", or ¼" less than desired total
length. Dec for tip: [K2tog, k2] 4 times,
k2tog—13 sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. K3, [k2tog]
5 times—8 sts rem. Break yarn, leaving a
129
10/20/09 1:13:49 PM
 10" tail. Thread tail onto tapestry needle
and use Kitchener st (see Glossary) to graft
rem sts tog. Middle finger: Sl 7 (8) sts
for back of hand onto 1 dpn, knit these sts,
pick up and knit 3 (2) sts at base of index
finger, k7 (8) palm sts, CO 2 sts—19 (20)
sts. Divide finger sts evenly onto 3 dpn and
join. Knit every rnd until finger measures
3¼ (3½)". Dec for tip: K1 (2), [k2tog, k2] 4
times, k2tog—14 (15) sts rem. Knit 1 rnd.
K1 (0), [k2tog, k1] 4 (5) times, k1 (0)—10
sts rem. Graft as for index finger. Ring
finger: Sl 7 (8) sts from back of hand onto
1 dpn, knit these sts, pick up and knit 2 sts
at base of middle finger, k7 palm sts, CO 2
sts—18 (19) sts. Divide finger sts evenly
onto 3 dpn and join. Knit every rnd until
finger measures 3 (3¼)" from beg. Dec for
tip: K0 (1), [k2tog, k2] 4 times, k2tog—13
(14) sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. K3 (2), [k2tog] 5 (6)
times—8 sts rem. Graft as for index finger.
Little finger: Sl 6 sts from back of hand onto
1 dpn, knit these sts, pick up and knit 2 sts at
base of ring finger, k6 (7) palm sts—14 (15) sts.
Divide finger sts evenly onto 3 dpn and join.
Knit every rnd until finger measures 2¼ (2½)"
from beg. Dec for tip: K1 (2), [k2tog, k2] 3
times, k1—11 (12) sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. [K2tog,
k1] 3 (4) times, k2 (0)—8 sts rem. Graft as for
other fingers. Thumb: Place 18 held thumb
sts onto 2 dpn.
Rnd 1: K18, with 3rd dpn, pick up and knit 8
sts at base of CO sts—26 sts. Place m and join.
Rnd 2: Knit.
Rnd 3: K18, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2—24 sts rem.
Rnd 4: K18, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1—22 sts rem.
Rnd 5: K18, ssk, k2tog—20 sts rem.
Arrange sts evenly on 3 dpn and knit every
rnd until thumb measures 2½". Dec for tip:
[K2, k2tog] 5 times—15 sts rem. Knit 1 rnd.
[K2tog, k1] 5 times—10 sts. Graft as for
other fingers.
OVER-GLOVES
Note: The over-gloves are worked back and
forth on straight needles in St st colorwork.
Left over-glove: With dark green and
straight needles, CO 68 sts. Knit 2 rows. Next
row: (WS) K1 (edge st), purl to last st, k1 (edge
st). Knitting the edge sts every row and beg
with Row 1 as indicated for left glove, work
center 66 sts according to Over-Glove chart
through Row 14. Thumb gore: (Row 15 of
chart): K1, work 29 sts as charted for palm,

Over-Glove
55
53
51
49
47
45
43
41
39
37
35
33
31
29
27
25
23
21
19
17
15
13
11
9
7
5
3
1
beg right glove beg left glove

thumb gore,
gray green orange light brown see chart at right

gold dark green silver k1f&b on RS;

p1f&b on WS

130 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com

KA_118-132-MGs.indd 130 10/19/09 9:49:41 AM

10192009095259

Thumb Gore
37
35
33
31
29
27
25
23
21
19
17
15
pm, work 2 sts according to Row 15 of Thumb
Gore chart, pm, work to end of rnd according
to Over-Glove chart, k1. On Row 16 of charts,
cont as established to m, sl m, [p1f&b] 2 times,
sl m, work to end. Cont working as charted, inc
1 st inside thumb gore m as shown on Thumb
Gore chart through Row 38—18 thumb gore
sts. On Row 39 of chart, work to 18 thumb
gore sts, sl these sts onto contrasting yarn
(remove m), using the backward-loop method
(see Glossary), CO 2 sts over gap, work in patt
to end—68 sts. Cont as charted through Row
55. With dark green, knit 1 (WS) row. BO all
sts kwise. Right over-glove: Work as for left
over-glove, but beg chart as indicated for right
glove so that palm and back-of-hand patts
mirror left over-glove.
FINISHING
Block lightly. With yarn threaded on a tapes-
try needle, sew side seam. Thumb trim: Sl 18
held thumb sts onto 2 dpn, with a third dpn,
pick up and knit 6 sts at base of CO sts—24
sts. Join. Purl 1 rnd. BO all sts pwise. Weave
in loose ends.
Mari Lynn Patrick has been working in the
handknitting business for thirty-six years.
Project Photos: Chris Hartlove
KA_118-132-MGs.indd 131
KNIT CUFFS WITH
A CABLE TWIST
Deborah Pulliam
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished size (unstretched): 5¾" long and 6"
in circumference.
Yarn Dale of Norway Baby Ull (100% super-
wash wool, 191 yd [175 m]/50 g; Fingering #1
Super Fine): #2016 yellow, 1 ball.
Needles Size 3 (3.25 mm).
Notions Cable needle (cn), size B/2 crochet
hook.
Gauge About 9½ sts = 1" in cable patt.
Stitch Guide
Four-Stitch Cable: Place next 2 sts on cn, and
hold them in the front of your work. Knit the
following 2 sts, then knit the 2 sts from cn.
CUFFS
CO 56 sts. Join, being careful not to twist sts.
Cuff is worked entirely in the rnd.
Rnds 1–4: *K2, p1, k4, p1, rep from * around.
Rnd 5: *K2, p1, work four-stitch cable (see
Stitch Guide), p1, rep from * around.
Rnds 6–10: Rep Rnd 1.
Rnd 11: Rep Rnd 5.
Rep Rnds 6–11 five more times, then work
Rnds 1–4 once more—45 rnds completed.
BO loosely in pattern. Rep for second cuff.
FINISHING
Work crocheted scalloped edging as follows
(see Glossary for crochet instructions):
Join yarn to CO edge of cuff in the center of a
2-st knit column. Using the crochet hook, *Work
1 sc in the center of a 2-st knit column, ch 1,
work 7 dc in the center of a 4-st cable column,
ch 1; rep from * around, ending with a sl st in
the first sc worked. Cut yarn and fasten off last
st. Rep for BO edge of same cuff, then work scal-
lops on both ends of second cuff. Weave in ends.
Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS
10192009095259
The late Deborah Pulliam was PieceWork’s
contributing historian.
Project Photos: Joe Coca
FINGERLESS
MITTS
Deborah Newton
Skill Level Intermediate
Finished Size About 8" hand circumfer-
ence and 10" long.
Yarn Filatura di Crosa Aiko (80% cash-
mere, 20% polyamide; 63 yd [57 m]/25 g;
Worsted #4 Medium): #40 fuchsia, 3 balls.
Yarn distributed by Tahki Stacy Charles.
Needles Hand—size 9 (5.5 mm): straight.
Thumb—size 8 (5 mm): set of 4 double-
pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if neces-
sary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions Markers (m); cable needle (cn);
tapestry needle.
Gauge 16 sts and 24 rows = 4" in k2, p2
rib on larger needles.
Stitch Guide
Cable Panel: (worked over 13 sts)
Row 1: (RS) P2, k9, p2.
Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: K2, p9, k2.
Row 3: P2, k3, slip 3 sts onto cn and hold
in front, k3, k3 from cn, p2.
Row 5: P2, k9, p2.
Row 7: P2, slip 3 sts onto cn and hold in
back, k3, k3 from cn, k3, p2.
Rep Rows 1–8 for patt.
K2, P2 Ribbing: (multiple of 4 sts + 2)
Row 1: (RS) K2, *p2, k2; rep from *.
Row 2: P2, *k2, p2; rep from *.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.
MITTS
Right mitt: With larger needles, CO 41
131
10/19/09 9:49:41 AM
 sts. Set-up row: (WS) P2, k1, *p1, k1;
rep from * to last 2 sts, p2. Cont in rib as
established for 2 more rows. Next row:
(RS) K2, p2, k2, place marker (pm), work
cable panel (see Stitch Guide) over next
13 sts, pm, work k2, p2 rib to end. Slip
markers (sl m) every rnd. Cont in patt
as established until piece measures 4"
from CO, ending with a WS row. Wrist
ribbing: (RS) K2, p2, k2, sl m, cont cable
panel as established over 13 sts, sl m, k2,
p2, k2, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts, p2,
k2. Cont as established, working k1, p1 rib
over 12 wrist sts, cable panel over 13 sts,
and k2, p2 rib over rem sts, until k1, p1
rib at wrist measures 2", ending with a WS
row. Resume main patt: (RS) K2, p2, k2,
sl m, work cable panel over 13 sts, sl m,
work k2, p2 rib over rem 22 sts. Cont in
patt as established until glove measures 9"
from CO, ending with a WS row. Thumb
opening: (RS) Keeping in patt as established,
work 28 sts, place the last 5 sts worked onto
a piece of waste yarn to be worked later for
thumb, work to end. Next row: (WS) Keeping
in patt, work to thumb gap, use the backward-
loop method (see Glossary) to CO 5 sts over
gap, work to end. Upper hand: Work 4 rows
in patt, ending with a WS row. Work in k1, p1
rib for 3 rows. BO all sts.
Left mitt: Work as for right mitt, reversing
placement of cable, wrist ribbing, and thumb
opening. To reverse placement of cable, work
in k2, p2 rib over 22 sts, pm, work cable panel
over next 13 sts, pm, k2, p2, k2. To reverse
placement of wrist ribbing, k2, p2, *k1, p1; rep
from * 5 more times, work in patt as estab-
lished to end. To reverse thumb opening, keep-
ing in patt as established, work 18 sts, place
last 5 sts worked onto a piece of waste yarn to
be worked later for thumb, work to end.
FINISHING
With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew
side seam. Thumb: With RS facing, place 5
held thumb sts onto dpn. Join yarn and knit
these 5 sts, then pick up and knit 2 sts in
corner, with another dpn pick up and knit 5
sts at base of CO sts, with another dpn pick
up and knit 2 sts in other corner—14 sts
total. Arrange sts as evenly as possible on
3 dpn. Pm and join for working in the rnd.
Work in k1, p1 rib until piece measures 1"
from pick-up. BO all sts. Weave in loose ends.
Block lightly.
Deborah Newton lives in Providence, Rhode
Island, and has just completed a book of
cabled sweater patterns for Leisure Arts.
Project Photos: Carol Kaplan

CABLES
Cables are made by changing the order of stitches on your needle
to create a twisted, ropelike appearance. In other words, this
means working a group of stitches in a given row out of sequence.
To do this, you’ll need a cable needle as a temporary stitch holder.
A cable needle is a short double-pointed needle that can be shaped
straight, straight with a dip in it, or like a U. The style of cable
needle to use is a matter of personal preference.
So here’s how you work a cable; the example is a six-stitch cable.
Typically, an even-numbered group of knit stitches is set off by one
or more purl stitches on either side.
Step 1: The pattern will tell you how many stitches the cable has,
the rows over which the cable is worked, and how often the cable
is repeated. When you get to the cable row, work the stitch pattern
until you get to the six cable stitches.
pattern will tell you whether you hold the stitches to the front or
the back (the front or back placement determines the direction the
cable will twist).
Step 3: Knit the next three stitches from the left needle to the
right needle (Figure 2).
Step 4: Then, working from your cable needle, knit the three
stitches, in order, onto your right needle (Figure 3). Continue to
work across the row following your pattern.
Step 5: On rows between cable twists, work stitches as they
appear (knit the knits and purl the purls) unless the pattern tells
you otherwise. It will also indicate the number of rows over which
the cable is worked. Fewer rows between twists create a more pro-
nounced cable; more rows create a more relaxed cable (Figure 4).

Step 2: Slip three stitches from the left needle onto the cable
needle and hold these stitches in front or in back (Figure 1). The

Figure 3
Figure 1

Figure 2
Figure 4

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ABBREVIATIONS Knitting Gauge Use a Ruler to Measure Gauge

beg beginning; begin; begins To check gauge, cast on thirty to forty stitches This illustration shows a gauge of 6 stitches to
bet between using recommended needle size. Work in pat- the inch. For the most accurate results, mea-
BO bind off tern stitch until piece measures at least 4" (10 sure the gauge over 4" and divide by four to
CC contrasting color cm) from cast-on edge. Remove swatch from get the number of stitches per inch.
cm centimeter(s) needles or bind off loosely and lay swatch on
cn cable needle
flat surface. Place a ruler over swatch and
CO cast on
cont continue(s); continuing
count number of stitches across and number
dec(s) decrease(s); decreasing of rows down (including fractions of stitches
dpn double-pointed needle(s) and rows) in 4" (10 cm). Repeat two or three
foll following; follows times on different areas of swatch to confirm
g gram(s) measurements. If you have more stitches
inc increase(s); increasing and rows than called for in instructions, use
k knit larger needles; if you have fewer, use smaller
k1f&b knit into front and back of needles. Repeat until gauge is correct.
same st
k2tog knit two stitches together Reading Charts
kwise knitwise Unless otherwise indicated, read charts
LC left cross from the bottom up. On right-side rows,
m(s) marker(s) read charts from right to left. On wrong-side
MC main color rows, read charts from left to right. When
mm millimeter(s)
knitting in the round, read charts from right
M1 make one (increase)
p purl
to left for all rounds.
p1f&b purl into front and back of
same st
p2tog purl two stitches together
patt(s) pattern(s) Backward-Loop Cast-On
pm place marker *Loop working yarn and place it on needle backward so that it
psso pass slipped stitch over doesn’t unwind. Repeat from *.
p2sso pass two slipped stitches
over
pwise purlwise
RC right cross
rem remain(s); remaining
rep repeat; repeating
rev St st reverse stockinette stitch
Bar Increase (K1f&b)
rib ribbing
rnd(s) round(s) Knit into a stitch and leave it on the needle (Figure 1). Knit through the back loop of the same
RS right side stitch (Figure 2). Slip both stitches off the needle (Figure 3).
rev sc reverse single crochet
Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3
sc single crochet
sk skip
sl slip
sl st slip stitch (sl 1 st pwise
unless otherwise indicated)
ssk slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise,
k2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease)
ssp slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise,
p2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease)
st(s) stitch(es)
St st stockinette stitch Continental (Long-Tail) Cast-On
tbl through back loop
tog together Leaving a long tail (about ½" to 1" for each stitch to be cast
WS wrong side on), make a slipknot and place on right needle. Place thumb
wyb with yarn in back and index finger of left hand between yarn ends so that work-
wyf with yarn in front
yo yarn over
ing yarn is around index finger and tail end is around thumb.
Figure 1 Figure 2
* repeat starting point Secure ends with your other fingers and hold palm upward,
(i.e., repeat from *) making a V of yarn (Figure 1). Bring needle up through loop
** repeat all instructions on thumb (Figure 2), grab first strand around index finger
between asterisks
() alternate measurements with needle, and go back down through loop on thumb (Fig-
and/or instructions ure 3). Drop loop off thumb and, placing thumb back in V
[] instructions that are to be configuration, tighten resulting stitch on needle (Figure 4).
worked as a group a Figure 3 Figure 4
specified number of times

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Double-Start Cast-On Kitchener Stitch

For a double cast-on, take two ends of yarn, either from two separate
balls of yarn or one end from the outside and one from the inside of
a single ball, and cast on holding both yarns together. When you’ve
cast on the desired number of stitches, break off one end of yarn,
leaving a tail for weaving in later, and continue knitting as usual with
the other end. This cast-on is a variation of the continental (long-tail)
cast-on. It makes a decorative edge that results in a thread running
in front of two cast-on stitches. Make a slipknot and place it on the
needle, leaving a long tail; the slipknot counts as the first “regular”
cast-on stitch. Place the thumb and index finger of left hand between
the yarn ends. Secure with your other fingers, and hold palm upward,
making a V of yarn (Figure 1). *Release the yarn from around your
thumb and rewrap it in the opposite direction, so the yarn coming
from the needle is in front of the thumb. Insert needle tip down into
the reversed thumb loop, then over the strand around the index fin-
ger, and back up through the reversed thumb loop (Figure 2). Drop
loop off thumb, place thumb back in original V configuration, and
tighten stitch on needle. Cast on one stitch using the conventional
long-tail cast-on method, without reversing the thumb loop. Repeat
from *, alternating one reversed thumb loop stitch with one regular
long-tail cast-on stitch until you have the required number of stitches
on the needle (Figure 3).
Step 1: Bring threaded needle through
front stitch as if to purl and leave
stitch on needle.
Step 2: Bring threaded needle through
back stitch as if to knit and leave stitch
on needle.
Step 3: Bring threaded needle through
first front stitch as if to knit and slip this stitch off needle. Bring
threaded needle through next front stitch as if to purl and leave
stitch on needle.
Step 4: Bring threaded needle through first back stitch as if to purl
(as illustrated), slip this stitch off, bring needle through next back
stitch as if to knit, leave this stitch on needle.
Repeat Steps 3 and 4 until no stitches remain on needles.
Mattress Stitch Seam
With RS of knitting facing, use threaded needle to pick up one bar
between first two stitches on one piece (Figure 1), then correspond-
ing bar plus the bar above it on other piece (Figure 2). *Pick up next
two bars on first piece, then next two bars on other (Figure 3). Repeat
from * to end of seam, finishing by picking up last bar (or pair of
bars) at the top of first piece.

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3

I-Cord Raised (M1) Increases

With double-pointed needle, cast on desired Left Slant (M1L) and Standard M1 With left needle tip, lift
number of stitches. *Without turning the needle, strand between needles from
slide the stitches to other end of the needle, pull front to back (Figure 1). Knit
the yarn around the back, and knit the stitches lifted loop through the back
as usual; repeat from * for desired length. Figure 1 Figure 2 (Figure 2).
Right Slant (M1R)
With left needle tip, lift
strand between needles from
Invisible (Provisional) Cast-On back to front (Figure 1). Knit
Place a loose slipknot on needle held in Figure 1 Figure 2 lifted loop through the front
your right hand. Hold waste yarn next (Figure 2).
to slipknot and around left thumb; hold
working yarn over left index finger. *Bring
needle forward under waste yarn, over Figure 1
working yarn, grab a loop of working yarn Running Stitch
(Figure 1), then bring needle to the front, Working small straight stitches, pass the threaded
over both yarns, and grab a second loop needle over one knitted stitch and under the next
(Figure 2). Repeat from *. When you’re to form a dashed line. The stitches can be worked in
ready to work in the opposite direction, equal or varying lengths, horizontally, vertically, or
Figure 2
pick out waste yarn to expose live stitches. diagonally.

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Short-Rows: Wrapping a Stitch

Crochet Chain (Provisional) Cast-On
Work to turn point, slip next stitch purlwise
With waste yarn and
to right needle. Bring yarn to front (Figure 1).
crochet hook, make a
Slip same stitch back to left needle (Figure 2).
loose chain of about
Turn work and bring yarn in position for next
four stitches more
stitch, wrapping the stitch as you do so. Note:
Figure 1 than you need to Figure 1 Figure 2
Hide wraps in a knit stitch when right side of
cast on. With needle,
piece is worked in a knit stitch. Leave wrap if
working yarn, and beginning two stitches from end of chain, pick
the purl stitch shows on right side. Hide wraps
up and knit one stitch through the back loop of each crochet chain
as follows: Knit stitch: On right side, work to
(Figure 1) for desired number of stitches. Work the piece as desired,
just before wrapped stitch. Insert right needle
and when you’re ready to work in the opposite direction, pull out
from front, under the wrap from bottom up, Figure 2 the crochet chain to expose live stitches (Figure 2).
and then into wrapped stitch as usual. Knit
them together, making sure new stitch comes out under wrap. Purl Crochet Chain (ch)
stitch: On wrong side, work to just before wrapped stitch. Insert
Make a slipknot on hook. Yarn over hook and draw
right needle from back, under wrap from bottom up, and put on left
it through loop of slipknot. Repeat, drawing yarn
needle. Purl them together.
through the last loop formed.

Double Crochet (dc)

Ssp Decrease *Yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull up loop
(three loops on hook; Figure 1), yarn over and draw through
Holding yarn in front, slip two
two loops (Figure 2), yarn over and draw through remaining two loops
stitches knitwise one at a time
(Figure 3); repeat from *.
onto right needle (Figure 1). Slip
them back onto left needle and
purl the two stitches together Figure 1 Figure 2
Figure 1 Figure 2
through back loops (Figure 2).

Figure 3

Sssk Double Decrease Single Crochet (sc)

Slip three stitches knitwise one at a time. Insert point of left needle Insert hook into a stitch, yarn over hook and draw a loop through
into front of three slipped stitches and knit them together through stitch, yarn over hook (Figure 1) and draw it through both loops on
back loops with right needle—three stitches reduced to one. hook (Figure 2).

Figure 1 Figure 2
Three-Needle Bind-Off
Place stitches to be joined onto two separate Slip Stitch Crochet (sl st)
needles. Hold them with right sides of knitting Insert hook into stitch, yarn over hook
facing together. Insert a third needle into first and draw loop through stitch and loop on
stitch on each of the other two needles and knit hook.
them together as one stitch. *Knit next stitch
on each needle the same way. Pass first stitch Treble Crochet (tr)
over second stitch. Repeat from * until one stitch remains on third *Wrap yarn around hook two
needle. Cut yarn and pull tail through last stitch. times, insert hook into a stitch, Figure 1

yarn over and pull a loop through

(four loops on hook; Figure 1),
yarn over and draw it through Figure 2
two loops (Figure 2), yarn over
and draw it through the next
two loops, yarn over and draw it
through the remaining two loops
(Figure 3). Repeat from *. Figure 3

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UNITED STATES YARN SOURCES Muench Yarns Inc./GGH, (800) 733-9276; www.muenchyarns.com. In Canada:
Oberlyn Yarns.
Alchemy Yarns, (707) 823-3276; www.alchemyyarns.com. Nordic Fiber Arts/Rauma, (603) 868-1196; www.nordicfiberarts.com.
Blue Sky Alpacas, (763) 753-5815; www.blueskyalpacas.com. Plymouth Yarn Co., (215) 788-0459; www.plymouthyarn.com.
Brown Sheep Co., (800) 826-9136; www.brownsheep.com. Schaefer Yarn Co., (607) 532-9452; www.schaeferyarn.com.
Buffalo Gold, (817) 992-8220; www.buffalogold.net. Shokay, www.shokay.com.
Cascade Yarns, www.cascadeyarns.com. Tahki Stacy Charles Inc./Filatura di Crosa, (800) 338-YARN;
Classic Elite Yarns, (978) 453-2837; www.classiceliteyarns.com. www.tahkistacycharles.com.
Crafts Americana/Knit Picks, (800) 574-1323; www.knitpicks.com. T&C Imports/Frog Tree, (508) 385-8826; tandcimports@comcast.net.
Crystal Palace Yarns, (510) 237-9988; www.crystalpalaceyarns.com. Westminster Fibers/Nashua Handknits/Rowan/Regia,
Dale of Norway, www.dale.no. www.westminsterfibers.com. In Canada: Diamond Yarn.
Fiesta Yarns, (505) 892-5008; www.fiestayarns.com.
Green Mountain Spinnery, (800) 321-9665; www.spinnery.com.
Halcyon Yarn, (800) 341-0282; www.halcyonyarn.com.
CANADIAN YARN SOURCES
Jade Sapphire, (866) 857-3897; info@jadesapphire.com; www.jadesapphire.com.
JaggerSpun, www.jaggeryarn.com. Diamond Yarn, www.diamondyarn.com.
Karabella Yarns, (800) 550-0898; www.karabellayarns.com. JCA/Reynolds, (978) 597-8794; www.jcacrafts.com.
Knit One, Crochet Too, (207) 892-9625; www.knitonecrochettoo.com. Koigu Wool Designs, www.koigu.com.
Knitting Fever/Sirdar, (516) 546-3600; www.knittingfever.com. In Canada: Louet North America, (613) 925-4502; www.louet.com.
Diamond Yarn. Oberlyn Yarns, www.oberlyn.ca.
Lorna’s Laces, (773) 935-3803; www.lornaslaces.net.
Mountain Colors Yarns, (406) 961-1900; www.mountaincolors.com.

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ALABAMA Compatto Yarn Salon–Santa Monica Highlands Ranch String, A Knitting

www.compattoyarnsalon.com Boutique–Highlands Ranch
In the Making–Birmingham Specializing in organic, natural fibers, and ex- www.stringboutique.com
www.shopinthemaking.com clusive hand-dyed/handpainted yarns. Large inventory of quality yarns and needles.
Beautiful yarns & fabrics! Unique patterns 2112 Wilshire Blvd. (310) 453-2130 New classes on our website!
and friendly staff! Next to Starbucks! 9325 Dorchester St., F121 (720) 344-9276
3114 Heights Village (877) 298-1309 Cottage Yarns–South San Francisco
www.cottageyarns.com Desert Weyr LLC– Paonia
Knit In Time–Hueytown Your yarn source since 1966! www.desertweyr.com
www.knitntime.com 607 W. Orange Ave. (650) 873-7371 Black Welsh Mountain fleece, roving, yarn and
Come learn the art at our unique and friendly breeding stock. Farm Tours by appointment.
yarn shop! Lake Tahoe Yarn Company–Truckee 16870 Garvin Mesa Rd. (970) 527-3573
1292 Hueytown Rd. (205) 497-8882 www.laketahoeyarncompany.com
Serving the beautiful Truckee/Lake Tahoe CONNECTICUT
Serendipity Needleworks–Tuscaloosa area. Yarns, patterns, accessories, classes. A
www.serendipityneedleworks.com shop to enjoy. Mystic River Yarns LLC–Mystic
Friendly, full-service knitting and needle- 11008 Donner Pass Rd. (530) 587-1060 www.mysticriveryarns.com
point shop specializing in luxurious yarns, Basic to exotic yarns in a pleasant ambiance.
handpainted canvases, classes, finishing, and Clever Knits–Vista Classes, workshops, and personal service by
smiles! www.cleverknits.com expert knitters.
412 Queen City Ave. (205) 758-0108 Artisan yarns for fiber artists—A new, mod- 14 Holmes St. (860) 536-4305
ern, comfortable yarn store in north San Diego
ARIZONA County. Woolworks Ltd.–Putnam
214 S. Indiana Ave. (760) 806-6744 www.woolworksltd.com
Grandma’s Spinning Wheel–Tucson A world of fiber at your fingertips.
www.grandmasspinningwheel.com COLORADO 154 Main St. (860) 963-1228
Our shop is bulging with quality yarns, beads,
and accessories for knitters, crocheters, felters, Green Valley Weavers & Knitters LLC FLORIDA
spinners, and weavers. –Colorado Springs
6544 E. Tanque Verde, Ste. 150 www.greenvalleyweavers.com The Knitting Garden–Coral Gables
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dent 2004 editor’s-pick winner. An exceptional collection of fine yarns, pat-
CALIFORNIA 2115 W. Colorado Ave. (719) 448-9963 terns, and classes. Cozy and welcoming at-
mostphere for all!
Unwind–Burbank Table Rock Llamas Fiber Arts Studio 2716 Ponce de Leon Blvd. (305) 774-1060
www.unwindyarn.com Inc.–Colorado Springs
Where yarn lovers in Southern California con- www.tablerockllamas.com Unwind, The Yarn Shop
gregate—you’re always welcome! Unparalleled Knitting, crochet, spinning, weaving, felting, –Fort Walton Beach
selection, service, workshops, events. synthetic dyes, and DyeWorks natural dye ex- www.unwindwithyarn.com
818 N. Hollywood Wy. (818) 840-0800 tracts, also “twig and berry.” Located in historic downtown. Luxurious
6520 Shoup Rd. (866) 495-7747 yarn from Rowan, Noro, Malabrigo, BlueSky
Itza Knitterie–Glendale Alpacas, TilliTomas, and others.
www.itzaknitterie.com Bags By CAB Yarn Shoppe–Denver 148 Miracle Strip Pkwy. SE, Ste. 1
Beautiful yarns, accessories, and classes for all www.bagsbycab.com (850) 314-9898
levels, sit and knit, Tue and Thu evenings. Yarn, supplies, baby items, throws, handbags,
1413 W. Kenneth Rd. (818) 507-1813 accessories, and beautiful felted Bags By CAB! GEORGIA
Tamarac Square Mall.
Yarndogs–Los Gatos 7777 E. Hampden Ave., Ste. Center Court Creative Yarns–Macon
www.yarndogs.com (303) 695-8628 www.creativeyarns.net
Great selection of yarns, books, and supplies. Unique and natural yarns for the discriminat-
Wide variety of classes. Friendly, helpful staff. Yarn–Durango ing fiber fanatic. Spinning, weaving and fibers
Shop online. www.yarndurango.com for felting.
151 E. Main St. (408) 399-1909 In downtown, come in and see the best selec- 134 Speer Ave. (478) 7GO-KNIT
tion of knitting and crochet supplies in the Four
Knit This, Purl That!–Pleasanton Corners. ILLINOIS
www.yourknittingplace.com 755 E. 2nd Ave. (970) 259-9827
Unique knitting shop in quaint downtown. Chix with Stix–Forest Park
Beautiful natural and blend yarns, supplies, Woolly Works Knit Shop–Elbert www.chixwithstixknitting.com
and classes. yourknittingplace@comcast.net. Retail—custom knitting, repairs, classes, fiber, cone A unique knitting boutique located just out-
205 A Main St. (925) 249-9276 yarns, limited knitting machine parts, maintenance, side Chicago. We offer a wide variety of yarn,
lessons. woollyworks_farm@hotmail.com. classes, and parties. chixstix@sbcglobal.net.
Bobbin’s Nest Studio–Santa Clara 12285 Oregon Wagon Trl. (719) 495-2754 7316 W. Madison St. (708) 366-6300
www.bobbinsnest.com
We are a knitting, crochet, sewing, and hand- My Sister Knits–Fort Collins Nana’s Knitting Shop–Oak Lawn
embroidery store. Beautiful yarns and fabrics www.mysisterknits.com www.nanasknittingshop.com
galore! Scrumptious yarns, knitting accessories, and en- Beautiful yarn, accessories, and classes for ev-
1171 Homestead Rd., Ste. 130 couragement. Visit our website for specials. Tue ery skill level. Expert, friendly staff.
(408) 246-1121 10–8, Wed–Sat 10–5. (In the carriage house.) 5144 W. 95th St. (708) 229-0061
1408 W. Mountain (970) 407-1461

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Wool, Warp & Wheel–Richmond MASSACHUSETTS Yarns & Threads–Lake Linden

www.woolwarpandwheel.com www.yarnsandthreads.com
Spinning, weaving, and knitting supplies YARNS in the Farms–Beverly Farms Handspun mohair/silk lace yarn! Custom-
and equipment. Tue–Fri 7 p.m.–9:30 p.m., www.yarnsinthefarms.com designed needle and hook cases made in USA.
Sat–Sun 10–5. Beautiful fibers, buttons, and bags; inspiring 332 Calumet St. (866) 296-9568
5605 Mill St. (815) 678-4063 books; and fun accessories. Lively classes, Knit
Nights, and “KNITINI” gatherings! City Knits–Mt. Clemens
INDIANA 641 Hale St. (978) 927-2108 www.cityknits.com
The BEST place for yarn. Color nirvana, gour-
Clementine’s Dry Goods–Franklin The Fiber Loft–Harvard met fibers, and terrific tools! One additional
www.clementinesdrygoods.com www.TheFiberLoft.com location in Detroit.
Handpaints, sock yarns, and Westminster/ Knitting~Weaving~Spinning~Felting. Serving 64 Cherry St. (586) 469-9665
Rowan fibers and fabrics . . . Clementine’s. fiber enthusiasts for over 30 years. We have
Where your stash awaits you. what you need! Whitmore Lake Yarn Co.
66 S. Water St. (317) 736-0012 9 Massachusetts Ave. (Rt. 111) –Whitmore Lake
(978) 456-8669 www.whitmorelakeyarn.com
IOWA Warm, wonderful, and woolly. Great yarns,
The Woolpack–Littleton needles, notions, books, patterns, and classes!
Knitted Together–West Des Moines www.woolpackyarn.com Only 15 minutes north of Ann Arbor.
www.knittedtogether.com Yearn for Yarn? Unwind your mind and knit 9535 Main St. (734) 449-9688
Enjoy an inspiring collection of yarns, pat- yourself silly in our cozy fiber mercantile.
terns, and classes in a relaxing atmosphere. 676 Great Rd. (978) 952-2500 MINNESOTA
7450 Bridgewood Blvd., Ste. 225
(515) 222-YARN Seed Stitch Fine Yarn–Salem All About Yarn–Coon Rapids
www.seedstitchfineyarn.com www.allaboutyarn.biz
KANSAS New England’s most visited yarn store. Brim- A specialty shop full of gorgeous yarn in a
ming with beautiful yarns and lots of hand- friendly, comfortable atmosphere. Offering
Gove City Yarns & Buttons–Gove craft pleasures. classes.
www.govecityyarns.com 21 Front St. (978) 744-5557 455 99th Ave. NW, Ste. 180
The largest selection of yarn and crochet supplies (763) 785-4900
in western Kansas. I-70 exit 93, 10 miles south. Knit Purl–Sudbury
319 Broad St. (785) 938-2255 A unique yarn boutique. A large selection of MISSISSIPPI
quality yarns and knitting supplies. Classes,
Twist–Wichita expert instruction, friendly service. Knit Studio LLC–Jackson
www.twistyarnshop.com 730 Boston Post Rd. (978) 443-5648 www.shopknitstudio.com
Everything for knit and crochet. Sit & stitch, Studio atmosphere with hand-dyed, upscale,
wi-fi, and classes. Village Stitchery–Topsfield natural yarns and fibers as well as nouveau
607 W. Douglas Ave. (316) 262-9276 www.villagestitchery.blogspot.com knitting accessories.
Largest selection of yarns, books, and notions 1481 Canton Mart Rd., Ste. B
KENTUCKY from your favorite companies. Classes and (601) 991-3099
great personal service.
Sophie’s Fine Yarn Shoppe–Louisville 374 Boston St. (978) 887-3083 Knutty Knitters–Yazoo City
www.sophiesfineyarn.com We carry over 60 lines of lovely yarns as well as
Friendly, full-service yarn shop. Come sit and MICHIGAN books, needles, lessons, workshops, fellowship,
knit! and great fun.
10482 Shelbyville Rd. Ste. 101 Busy Hands–Ann Arbor 128 S. Main St. (662) 746-7555
(502) 244-4927 www.busyhandsonline.com
“Life is too short to knit with boring yarn.” NEBRASKA
Enchanted Yarn & Fiber–Russellville Artful Yarns, Reynolds, and Jo Sharp. Classes.
www.enchantedyarnandfiber.com Specializing in exceptional customer service! The Plum Nelly–Hastings
Offering natural yarns and fibers, spinning 306 S. Main St., Ste. 1-C (734) 996-8020 www.theplumnelly.com
wheels, spinning and knitting supplies, and We have everything a fiber artist needs—looms,
unique handcrafted gifts. City Knits–Detroit spinning wheels, fleece, yarn, shuttles, books,
399 C. Dodson Ln. (270) 772-1675 www.cityknits.com magazines, classes. info@theplumnelly.com.
The BEST place for yarn. Color nirvana, gour- 731 W. Second St. (402) 462-2490
MARYLAND met fibers, terrific tools! Fabulous location in
the Fisher Building. Also in Mt. Clemens. Personal Threads Boutique–Omaha
Millicent’s Yarns & More–Cumberland 3011 W. Grand Blvd., Ste. 105 www.personalthreads.com
www.millicentsyarns.com (313) 872-9665 Everything you need for knitting, crocheting,
Called one of the top 10 yarn shops on the East needlepoint, and weaving! Large selection of
Coast. Two hours from Pittsburgh, Baltimore, Woven Art–East Lansing the finest yarns and quilting fabric!
and D.C. Easy on/off I-68 in western Maryland. www.yarnandfiberart.com 8600 Cass St. (800) 306-7733
27 N. Centre St. (301) 722-8100 Classes in knitting, crochet, spinning, and
weaving. Excellent selection of artisan and
A Tangled Skein–Hyattsville hand-dyed yarns and fibers.
www.atangledskein.com 325B Grove St. (517) 203-4467
Fine yarns, knitting and crochet supplies, a com-
fortable atmosphere, friendly people, good advice.
5200 Baltimore Ave. (301) 779-3399

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NEVADA NEW MEXICO Smith Furnishings–Oberlin

Showcasing fine yarn, books, supplies, and lessons.
Pioneer YARN Company–Minden Miriam’s Well–Santa Fe On the Historic Square in Downtown Oberlin.
www.pioneeryarn.com www.sfschoolofweaving.com 25 W. College St. (440) 774-2371
Very large collection of quality yarns, patterns, Santa Fe’s premier yarn shop. Local, national,
tools, accessories, and classes. You’ll find it and international designer yarns. OREGON
all here! 614 Paseo de Peralta (505) 982-6312
1687 Hwy. 395 N., Ste. 3 (775) 782-1221 Rose & Ram Knit Shop & Studio
Needle’s Eye Inc.–Santa Fe –Independence
Gail Knits–Las Vegas www.needleseyesantafe.com Out of the ordinary yarns and patterns. Spin-
www.gailknits.com New Mexico’s largest selection of quality yarns, ning fibers, supplies, and homegrown wool from
Your niche for knitting. Best-stocked store for books, and supplies for knitting, crocheting, our Shetland sheep. 15 miles west of Salem.
handknitting. and needlepoint. 226 S. Main St., Ste. A (503) 838-5648
8450 W. Sahara (702) 838-7713 839 Paseo De Peralta, Ste. O
(800) 883-0706 Close Knit–Portland
NEW HAMPSHIRE www.closeknitportland.com
NEW YORK Close Knit is the friendly neighborhood knit-
Elegant Ewe–Concord ting shop in the heart of northeast Portland,
www.elegantewe.com The Warm Ewe–Chatham the Alberta Arts District. Come enjoy a creative
Original designs and exceptional customer ser- www.warmewe.com knitter’s paradise!
vice. Featured in Knitter’s Stash and selected by Great yarn selection combined with needle- 2140 NE Alberta St. (503) 288-4568
Yankee Magazine as a must-visit destination. point, embroidery and bead departments, and
71 S. Main St. (603) 226-0066 friendly help! Knit Purl–Portland
31 Main St. (518) 392-2929 www.knit-purl.com
The Fiber Studio–Henniker Knit Purl is Portland’s premier handknitting
www.fiberstudio.com Yarn Cupboard–Jamesville boutique, specializing in Catherine Lowe Cou-
Natural fiber yarns for knitting and weaving, www.yarncupboard.com ture, handpainted, and luxury yarns.
needles, books, looms, spinning wheels. Our Conveniently located 10 minutes from the 1101 SW Alder St. (866) 656-KNIT
own handpainted yarns. center of Syracuse. Yarns, patterns/books, no-
161 Foster Hill Rd. (603) 428-7830 tions, buttons, accessories. Knitting Bee–Portland Westside
6487 E. Seneca Tpk. (315) 399-5148 www.theknittingbee.com
Ewe’ll Love It!–Nashua We LOVE yarn! Friendly customer service and a
www.ewellloveit.com Seaport Yarn–New York fabulous selection of yarns for knitting/crochet.
Our motto is “inspire, indulge, instruct”. Ewe’ll (Wall St. area) 15 minutes west of Portland, off Hwy. 26.
Love It! is full of yarn, notions, chocolate . . . www.seaportyarn.com 18305 NW W. Union Rd. (503) 439-3316
17 Factory St. (603) 578-2630 The yarnaholic’s candy store. Your heart’s de-
sire, your knitting needs. All About Yarn–Tigard
Inspire 2 Knit & Tea–Plymouth 181 Broadway, 5th Fl. (212) 220-5230 www.allaboutyarn.net
www.Inspire2knit.com Meeting your knitting needs and serving your
A wonderful yarn shop, an amazing array of Knitting Nation–Nyack creative expectations one strand at a time.
fibers and colors! Let us inspire you. www.knittingnation.com 11945 SW Pacific Hwy., Ste. 111
12 Yeaton Rd. (603) 536-KNIT (5648) Experience the largest selection of luxury yarns (503) 684-4851
in the tri-state area at America’s friendliest yarn
NEW JERSEY shop in a charming Hudson River town. PENNSYLVANIA
30 N. Broadway (845) 348-0100
Patricia’s Yarns–Hoboken Silverbrook Fiber Arts & Sheepskins
www.patriciasyarns.com NORTH CAROLINA –Marchand
Beautiful natural-fiber yarns from around the www.silverbrookfiberarts-sheepskin.com
world for knitting and crocheting. Private les- The Tail Spinner–Richlands Ten rooms of fiber-arts equipment (knitting,
sons and group classes available. www.tail-spinner.com weaving, spinning) including 4 rooms of yarn
107 4th St. (201) 217-YARN Complete fiber arts center: Quality yarns, spin- in restored 1860 home. Classes. Punxsutawney/
ning wheels, looms, classes, related tools, and Indiana area.
Woolbearers–Mount Holly equipment. 16040 U.S. Hwy. Rt. 119 N. (724) 286-3317
www.woolbearers.com 109 N. Wilmington St. (910) 324-6166
Full-service knitting, spinning, weaving, and Natural Stitches–Pittsburgh
dyeing shop specializing in handpainted fiber OHIO www.naturalstitches.com
and yarns, spinning and weaving equipment. Best selection of natural fibers in Pittsburgh.
90 High St. (609) 914-0003 Fiber Fun Studio–Albany Knowledgeable staff. Open 7 days. Evenings, too!
www.fiberfunstudio.com 6401 Penn Ave. (412) 441-4410
The Skein Attraction–Teaneck Quality yarn, elegant novelties, and fiber-art
www.theskeinattraction.com supplies for the knitter, crocheter, spinner, and RHODE ISLAND
Come see our shop designs, take a class, browse weaver.
our yarns, and meet the family. 28743 Gaston Rd. (740) 698-0101 Fresh Purls Ltd.–Providence
500 Cedar Ln. (201) 836-5648 www.freshpurls.com
Knitters Mercantile–Columbus A yarn store just for you, offering classes, fine
www.knittersmercantile.com yarns, needles, notions, books, and patterns.
Supplies, tools, toys, and togetherness for the Please visit us in the store.
knitting and crocheting enthusiast. 769A Hope St. (401) 270-8220
214 Graceland Blvd. (614) 888-8551

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Bella Yarns–Warren VIRGINIA CANADA - BRITISH

www.bellayarns.com COLUMBIA
Offering affordable luxuries for your knitting, Aylin’s Woolgatherer–Falls Church
crochet, weaving, and spinning needs. Get www.aylins-wool.com Twist of Fate Yarns–Kamloops
help with any project at our weekly walk-in The most complete source for knitting and www.twistoffateyarns.com
classes! crocheting artists! Specializing in needlecraft Fine yarns, exquisite fibers, wheels, looms,
476-478 Main St. (401) 247-7243 and novelty knitting yarns. and more for spinners, knitters, weavers, dy-
7245 Arlington Blvd., Ste. 318 ers, felters, and crocheters.
SOUTH CAROLINA (703) 573-1900 2020-F Falcon Rd. (250) 434-6297

yes yarn–Anderson On the Lamb–Staunton Needle & Arts Centre–Campbell River

www.yesyarn.com www.onthelambyarns.com www.needlenart.com and
Fine yarn and other essentials in a comfort- Easy access from I-81 and I-64, a tempting www.needlenarts.blogspot.com
able, cool, contemporary environment. Classes collection of knitting supplies awaits custom- More than 180 specialty yarns with Knit Café,
and gatherings ongoing. ers of all skill levels, in a welcoming, historic patterns, accessories, and consulting. Import-
3014 N. Main St., Ste. C-2 (864) 222-8244 setting. ers of Surina Needles.
906 N. Augusta St. (540) 886-YARN 910 Island Hwy. (888) 588-7834
TENNESSEE
My Favorite Yarn Shop–Warrenton CANADA - ONTARIO
Bliss Yarns–Brentwood www.myfavoriteyarnshop.biz
www.blissyarns.com Fabulous yarns and fibers for knitters and cro- Little Red Mitten–St. Thomas
Just south of Nashville off I-65, you’ll find a cheters, spinners, weavers, and felters. Classes www.littleredmitten.ca
friendly and helpful staff to assist with all your and equipment. Unique shop featuring a great selection of qual-
fiber needs. 85 Garrett St. (540) 349-8355 ity knitting and spinning supplies in a restored
127 Franklin Rd. (615) 370-8717 1842 home. Friendly, helpful service.
WASHINGTON 86 Talbot St. (519) 207-2880
TEXAS
Warehouse Woolery–Chelan Falls the knit cafe–Toronto
Yarntopia–Katy www.warehousewoolery.com www.theknitcafetoronto.com
www.yarntopiaonline.com Knitting, spinning, felting, and all things fiber Original patterns; colorful, natural, local yarns
Unique mix of yarn and accessories. Rowan, in our unique, cozy atmosphere. Classes, spin/ and knitting accessories; one-of-a-kind gifts;
Louisa Harding, Fleece Artist, Malabrigo, and knit ins! Online orders shipped same day! and knitting classes.
Lexie Barnes Bags. 20 Beebe Bridge Rd. (509) 888-0285 1050 Queen St. W. (416) 533-5648
2944 S. Mason Rd., Ste. M (281) 392-2386
Paradise Fibers–Spokane
Rose Path Weaving–Lindale www.paradisefibers.net
www.rosepathweaving.net Terrific selection of wool yarn, knitting nee-
In east Texas, just off I-20 on Hwy. 69N. High- dles, wheels and looms. Order online or stop
quality yarn in natural fibers. Skacel and Brit- in. Same day shipping! KNIT TING NEEDLES
tany knitting needles and beads. 1101 N. Thor St. (888) 320-7746 SWALLOW CASEIN, KNITTING NEEDLES, “Flex-
2808 S. Main St., #E (903) 882-3234 ible yet firm, smooth, effortless knitting.” Made
WISCONSIN from milk. Retail and wholesale. (319) 367-5065;
The Woolie Ewe–Plano clfa@iowatelecom.net; www.countrylanefiberarts
www.wooliewe.com Loop Yarn Shop–Milwaukee .homestead.com/Home.
Largest selection of yarn in the Southwest. E- www.loopyarnshop.com
mail info@wooliewe.com. Loop supports a ll knitters and crochet- L I T E R AT U R E
1301 Custer Rd., #328 (972) 424-3163 ers in their creative fiber endeavors and THE SPINNING WHEEL SLEUTH, A newsletter
aspirations! about spinning wheels and related tools. $24/4
Delightful Hands–Prosper 2963 N. Humboldt Blvd. (414) 265-2312 issues [$28 Can., $35 intl.]. Sample $3.50. Hand
www.delightfulhands.com Looms Supplements $10. The Spinning W heel
Just 4 Ewe–Oak Creek S le ut h , P O B o x 4 2 2 , A nd o ve r, M A 018 10 .
Personalized classes and sales by appointment.
www.spwhsl.com.
1902 Crown Colony (972) 347-1668 www.just4ewe.org
All fiber arts needs, knitting, crocheting, spin-
Twisted Yarns–Spring ning, felting, and classes, Just 4 Ewe! WEBSITES TO VISIT
www.twistedyarnstexas.com WWW.COMMONWEALTHYARNS.COM. Exciting
8615 S. Market Pl. (414) 768-YARN (9276)
selection of Be Sweet Magic Balls, Rare Yarns Alpaca,
Meet other twisted knitters at this warm, and Silkwood Hand-dyed Yarns. Telephone (604)
friendly shop! Great yarns, classes, and expe- WYOMING 874-4543 for an appointment if you want to visit
rienced staff. our design studio.
702 Spring Cypress Rd., Ste. A Iron Kettle Yarn Emporium–Cody
(281) 528-8664 www.needleworkparadise.com WWW.WOOL2DYE4.COM Exclusive line of undyed
smooth yarns in all weights for hand-dyers. Also
Great yarn and needlework shop located near spinning fibers. W holesale inquiries welcome.
UTAH Yellowstone Park full of fantastic yarns, nee- Yarnie@Wool2Dye4.com.
dles, accessories, and books.
Blazing Needles–Salt Lake City 513 16th St. (800) 801-5660
www.blazing-needles.com
Blazing Needles, your friendly Sugarhouse
community gathering place. Yarns to inspire.
Classes—everyone welcome.
1365 S. 1100 E. (801) 487-5648 (KNIT)

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 p ro j e c t index

Here and There Cables Burma Rings Scarf

pages 8, 14 pages 9, 14

Neck Warmer Verde

pages 9, 16 pages 9, 16

Pom-pom Scarf
pages 10, 18 Huckleberry Ascot Misty Garden Midwest Moonlight
pages 11, 18 pages 11, 20 pages 11, 20

Zigzag Stripes Penobscot Silk Scarf Frill Collar Forbes Forest Frothy Scarf Never Wimpy Wimple
pages 12, 22 pages 12, 22 pages 12, 24 pages 28, 32 pages 29, 33 pages 29, 34

Shibori-esque Neck Wrap Vintage Velvet Russian Lace Scarf Larkspur Scarf Orenburg Lace Triangle Ruffl ed Capelet with Sleeves
pages 30, 35 pages 31, 36 pages 31, 36 pages 31, 38 pages 42, 50 pages 42, 52

Summer Shawlette Lace Poncho Mini Poncho Chunky Lace Wrap Arrowhead Stole Star Rib Mesh Poncho
pages 43, 53 pages 43, 55 pages 43, 56 pages 43, 56 pages 44, 57 pages 44, 57

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Stockinette and Seed Poncho Little Arrowhead Shawl Koolhaas Hat Sabrina Tam Sideways Grande Hat December Lights Tam
pages 44, 58 pages 44, 58 pages 60, 68 pages 61, 69 pages 61, 69 pages 62, 70

Lock Nest Hat Earfl ap Hats Larkspur Hat Peek-A-Boo Cloche Tweed Beret Brioche Helmet Hat
pages 63, 71 pages 63, 72 pages 63, 73 pages 64, 74 pages 65, 75 pages 65, 76

Molly’s Headband Rib and Cable Socks Baby’s First Sock Cowgirl Slipper Socks Citrine Socklets Infant’s Fancy Silk Sock
pages 65, 79 pages 88, 92 pages 89, 93 pages 89, 94 pages 90, 95 pages 91, 97

Up-Down Spiral Sox Bazaar Socks Algonquin Socks A Holiday Stocking Annetrelac Socks Traveler’s Stockings
pages 98, 103 pages 99, 104 pages 99, 108 pages 100, 109 pages 100, 111 pages 100, 112

Bells & Whistles Socks Wishbone Socks Subway Mittens Cornfl ower Mitts Mosaic Mitts Alpaca Gloves
pages 101, 113 pages 102, 115 pages 118, 124 pages 119, 124 pages 120, 125 pages 120, 126

Keep Them Warm Wristlets The Point About Cuffs Je Suis Jolie Mitts Layered Turkish Gloves Knit Cuffs With A Cable Twist Fingerless Mitts
pages 120, 127 pages 121, 128 pages 122, 128 pages 123, 129 pages 123, 131 pages 123, 131

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 ravelings
Knitting Gives Me
More Than Socks
JENNIFER NASTU
I went to a business seminar recently and brought along
my knitting. When the speaker began, I got to work. The
harder I listened, absorbing new ideas, the faster my hands
worked on my sock.
That afternoon, with my finished sock nestled in my new knitting
bag and my hands—without knitting to keep them busy—restlessly
doodling, the speaker made a remark that made my head snap up.
She was speaking about a woman who had been on her board of
directors. “She never listened,” said our speaker. “She came to board
meetings with her knitting and knitted the whole meeting long.” My
cheeks burned. I felt thankful that my socks were safely tucked away.
Later, I apologized to the speaker for seeming rude.
“Oh, don’t worry about it,” she said. “You didn’t knit for that long.”
“That’s not the point,” I said. I tried to explain that my brain works
better when my hands are busy, but she had gone on to someone else.
She didn’t understand. But then again, I thought, a few years ago I
myself wouldn’t have understood. Though I’ve always kept my hands
busy while my brain works—mostly doodling—I never thought about
the brain-hand connection until I started knitting.
I haven’t been knitting long. My first project, done just over two
years ago, was a pair of midnight blue chenille mittens. I was so ob-
sessed that I worked on them in the car at stoplights. Never mind that
somehow I increased the number of stitches so that when the mittens
were finished I had to keep my hands fisted to keep the mittens from
falling off. Never mind that cotton chenille isn’t very warm and my
hands froze. It didn’t matter—they were beautiful.
My next projects were hats—many, many hats. I wrote stories in
my head while I knitted—around and around until I had enough hats
to keep the heads of all my family members warm. My father-in-law, a
gruff old softie who’d give me the moon if he could, cried when I gave
him his hat—as though I’d given the stars in return.
Then I tried a sweater, made from rug cotton on size eleven nee-
dles. The bulky yarn reminded me of fall, and I thought of breezy days
in college, remembered a friend I hadn’t thought of in years, composed
a letter I’d write down later. The sweater looks, perhaps predictably,
like a bathmat. I’ve never worn it but can’t throw it away. I’m hoping
I’ll get a puppy soon: the sweater would make a perfect dog bed.
After that I bought a silk/cashmere blend in soft pink and knitted
myself a shawl. It took months to finish, and as I worked I thought of
the type of person I’d be when I wore it: tall and willowy, confident
and feminine. I felt a keen sense of loss when I finally finished. Now
what would I knit?
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Four black hats (escapist knitting); a cotton vest in shades of pink
and baby blue (reluctant knitting: “I’ll never finish this, and I’m not
sure I want to”); dozens of Christmas presents (panic knitting: “If I
make something for Mom then I have to make something for Dad and
it’s Christmas Eve”); a Fair Isle sweater (challenging knitting: “Will I
ever get the hang of this?”); staff projects for the magazine (deadline
knitting). Some projects haven’t worked out; they sit tangled and sad
in the bottom of my knitting basket. These are difficult to bear, and I
cringe when I come upon them, feeling like a neglectful mother.
And then there are dry spells, and they are each different, as well.
There’s the “I don’t have any ideas” spell, the “I don’t have any good
yarn” spell (despite the overflowing state of my yarn cabinet) and, of
course, the “there are too many things to knit in the world and I can’t
knit all of them so I won’t knit anything” spell. This last is the most
painful: I am like a sullen teenager again, refusing the beauties of
the world if I can’t have them all. It’s the one that causes my heart to
race and my hands to sweat whenever I see something being knitted.
I want to run to the yarn store and spend enough money to give my
household a heart attack, yet I hold myself back, pretending to be
aloof. When this happens, I ease back into knitting with a simple
hat, which always gets my mind on track again, percolating happily
as my hands keep busy.
Even my unfinished projects have given me something: peace of
mind, new ideas, dreams. In the two years since I started, my knitting
has come to fill a space in my life. As simple as curling up with a good
book, knitting is just something I do. Yet when I knit for my family,
they react as though I’ve done something unreal and incredible, like
learning to fly. Some, like the woman at the seminar, dismiss my
knitting as something I do to distract myself, while still others—even
good friends—just think it’s bizarre.
I know better. It’s not mindless, not a distraction. In fact it’s just
the opposite: an attraction, one between my hands and my brain. I
make no brilliant leaps when I’m knitting. I haven’t solved the problem
of world hunger or cured cancer or balanced my finances. Instead I
wonder and daydream. I have ideas. I create.
Jennifer Nastu learned to knit thanks to her friends here at Inter-
weave. She wholeheartedly blames them for the current state of her
addiction.
10/19/09 9:59:46 AM
 Read Watch Click Shop
Magazines

Knits – encourages creativity and expertise, covering knitting in
depth with sophisticated projects and informative articles for all
skill levels
Piecework – for those with a passion for historical work—knitting,
crochet, needlework—and intriguing stories and techniques
Spin.Off – features everything about making yarn by hand,
in-depth fiber information, and basic-to-experienced projects
and techniques
Crochet – features original crochet patterns for all skill levels, tips
and techniques, and inspiring fiber stories
Handwoven – the go-to source for weaving, supplies, patterns,
tips, and techniques for handweavers
Knitscene – combines the latest trends with technique to
create easy-to-knit patterns that are fresh and unique
Knits Holiday Gifts – unique projects for all levels with
gift ideas for everyone on your holiday list

Television Books Online

Numerous fiber titles offer inspiration and
in-depth explorations into popular topics
and techniques.
Knitting Daily reaches out to fiber crafters every
weekday with engaging columns, fun contests, free
downloadable patterns, guest bloggers, and more.
Log onto KnittingDaily.com today to check out what’s
going on, buy patterns, register for events, and be a
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Get started with the world’s most beautiful

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along with us. Knitting Daily TV covers knitting,
crochet, stitching, felting, spinning, and other
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Check out your local listings or order Knitting
Daily TV on DVD.

interweave.com

KA_C3_ibc_IWP Group AD.indd C3 10/19/09 10:00:11 AM

10192009100321
 #LASSIC%LITE9ARNS Ladder Ruffle Scarf
Kumara wool/camel yarn

www.classiceliteyarns.com
Kit includes yarn, pattern and
button, available at your LYS
Exclusive button design by Annie Adams

KA_C4_bc_Classic Elite.indd C4 10/19/09 10:00:38 AM

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