Introduction of TEXTILE Industry

Definition of Textile
Pertaining of weaving or to woven fabrics; as textile arts; woven, capable of being woven; formed by weaving; as textile fabric.

Descriptive of textiles as defined of the raw materials, process, machinery, building, craft, technology, personnel used in, and the organizations and activities connected with their manufacture. A Latin word originated from texere , it means to weave. Any cloth or fabric made by weaving or knitting.

Indian Textile Industry

Textile is one of the Indias largest industries after agriculture. It provides direct employment to about 350 lacks people. Besides this, there are a large number of ancillary industries, which are dependent upon this sector such as manufacturing various machines, accessories, stores, ancillary item and chemicals. Known globally for its skill and craftsmanship, the Indian textile industry from soaring to the height it is capable, but this is expected to change post January 2005, as the quota restriction have been removed.

Textiles covers the following sub-segment: - 1) Fiber intermediates; P-X, DMT, PTA, MEG, Caprolactum, Wood pulp etc. 2) Fibers: ginning and pressing of cotton manufacture of PFY, NFY, Rayon fiber etc. 3) Synthetic fiber/filament processing vise, drawing, texturising, twisting etc. 4) Yarn: spinning cotton & blends on rotors and ring frames. 5) weaving/Knitting. 6) Processing and 7) Distribution. The Indian textile industry is large and divers, unique for its coverage of the entire gamut of activities ranging from production of raw material to providing the consumers high value added products, such as fabrics and segment of Indian textiles are divided into Fiber, Yarn, garments. The key

Fabrics and made-ups. The multi- fiber base of Indian textile comprise natural fibers from polyester, viscose, acrylic, polypropylene and nylon. Though primarily cotton based textile industry has a growing polyester sector and is active in processing linen wool and silk.

TEXTILE INDUSRY

The textile industry occupies a unique place in our country. One of the earliest to come into existence in India. It
accounts for 14% of the total Industrial production, contributes to nearly 30% of the total exports and is the second largest employment generator after agriculture.

Textile industry is providing one of the most basic needs of people and the holds importance; maintaining sustained growth for improving quality of life. It has a unique position as a self-reliant industry, from the production of raw materials to the delivery of finished product, with substantial value-addition at each stage of processing; it is a major contribution to the countrys economy.

Its vast potential for creation of employment opportunities in the agriculture, industrial, organized and decentralized sectors & rural and urban areas, particularly for women and the disadvantaged are noteworthy. Although the development of textile sectore was earlier taking place in terms of general policies in recognition of the importance of this sector, for the first time a separate policy statement was made in 1985 in regard to development of textile sector. The textile policy of 2000 aims at achieving
the target of textile and apparel exports of US $50 billion by 2010 of which the share of garments will be US $25 billion. The main market for Indian textile and apparel are USA, UAE, UK, Germany, France, Italy, Russia, Canada. Bangladesh, Japan.

The main objective of the textile policy 2000 is to provide cloth of acceptable quality at reasonable price for the vast majority of the population of the country, to increasingly contribute to the provision of sustainable employment and the economic growth of the nation; and to compete with confidence for an increasing share of the global market.
-:Animal Sources Fibers:WOOL

Sheep are the primary source of wool in military textile. Wool consists mainly of a protein called keratin. This is made up of amino acids. Keratin contains 3 4 % sulfur which is an insect attractant. Wool fibers absorb more moisture and accept dyes better than vegetable fibers. Wool is not a strong fiber and weakens considerably when wet.
SILK

Silk is an animal (insect) fiber that is derived from the cocoon filament of the silkworm (Bombay mori). Because it is basically protein, silk is easily affected by alkalis and various inorganic acids. Like wool, it easily absorbs

moisture and will take dyes readily. These dyes, however, are not as light-fast as those on wool. Silk is as strong as a steel wire the same diameter but is very light sensitive. Therefore, it will break down faster than wool when exposed to ultra violet rays. The most commonly encountered military artifacts composed of silk are scarves, medal ribbons and escape maps.
-: Vegetable Source Fibers:COTTON

Cotton is a vegetable fiber derived from lint on the cotton seed. It can survive in moderate alkaline condition but is adversely affected by acids. Cotton does not transmit moisture like linen and is very absorbent in its processed state. It is this characteristic clock wise twist ; for this reason , it is commonly spun in a Z twist.
LINEN

Linen is a spun and woven vegetable-based fiber derived from flax stalks and branches. Linen fiber lie close together and are durable. They withstand moderate alkaline condition because of their cellulose content, but are readily affected by acids. Moisture easily passes through the fiber of linen, causing in the overall strength. Linen does not take dye well and is usually left in a blenched or unclenched white state.
Agents of Deterioration

All textile are

deteriorated by light ,insect, microorganism, and air

pollution. Which alone or together , causes considerable loss of tensile strength and pliability. The oxygen on the atmosphere affect all organic substance to varying degrees. Prolonged exposure to normal atmospheric condition will cause textiles to weaken and disintegrate. The speed of the deterioration varies according to environment and the nature of the fibers . the main factors that promote the decay of textile can be categorized into three groups.

ORGANIC

All organic source textile are subject to attack by molds, mildew and bacteria. The environment that favor the the growth of these organism are as damp heat, stagnant air, and dirty storage conditions. Animal source textiles are particularly susceptible to attack by insect and rodents.
PHYSICAL

Excessive heat causes desiccation and Embrittlement; exposure to ultra violet light causes a type of deterioration known as tendering, as well as the photochemical degradation of susceptible dyes. Environment that are too damp or too dry can lead to mold growth or desiccation of a textile. Improper handling or storage can cause stress on the fabric which leads to tearing or separation.
CHEMICAL

Exposure to gases from adhesives or paints can cause tendering. In some cases, these gases are converted to acids, a primary cause for the deterioration of some textiles. A coat of paint or layer of adhesives in a display case for example, may produce fumes or off gas for months after it appear to be dry. In larger cities, air pollution may be a serious threat to textile as well as human health. Traditionally, the textile industry is very energy, water, and chemical intensive. About 60% of the energy is used by dyeing and finishing operations. Environment problems associated with the textile industry are typically those associated with water pollution. Natural impurities extracted from the fiber being processed along with chemical used for processing are the two main sources of pollution. Effluents are generally hot, alkaline, strong smelling and colored by chemicals used in dying process. Some of the chemical discharged are toxic. Other environment issue now considered equally important and

relevant to the textile industry includes air emissions, notably volatile organic compounds (VOC).

HOW TEXTILE INDUSTRY CAN HELPFUL TO INDIAN ECONOMY:

The textile industry has been one of the oldest and most important sectors of the Indian economy. It is the second largest employment provider in the country next to agriculture. It contributes to almost one third of foreign exchange earnings, contributing to 3% of the GDP. India has also been a significant player in the Global Textile markets. It is the third largest producer of cotton, the largest producer of jute, the second largest producer of silk and 5th largest producer of synthetic fiber/yarn. Indias export of textile and readymade garments grew by 10% in 2001-2002 and now stand at over $14 billion. Export of synthetic of synthetic and rayon textile rose by 23%. There has also been a remarkable increase in export of polyester/viscose yarn by more than 35%, polyester yarn by 9% and polyester spun yarn by 28%. During this period, polyester filament fabrics increased registered an 18% growth and polyester-viscose fabrics increased by 10%. The handicrafts of India have a huge market in the U.S. The traditional specialized arts and crafts of India like textile, metal craft, and wood craft are imported on a large scale and are acclaimed for their finesse and elegance.

History of Textile Industry

The textile industry, with its extremely long and rich history, has had a massive impact on the world economy and the very evolution of modern society. Weaving is believed to be one of the oldest surviving crafts in the world today, the actual origins of which are thought to date back to Neolithick times 12,000 years ago. Even before that same principle was used to interlace branches and twigs to form protective fences, shelters and baskets. Once the Practicality of interlacing these kinds of materials probably produced the first basic fabrics and cloths. The history of textile is almost as old as that of human civilization and as time moves on the history of textile has further enriched itself. In the 6th and 7th century BC, the oldest recorded indication of using fiber comes with the invention of flax and wool fabric at the excavation of Swiss lake inhabitants. In India the culture of silk was introduced in 400AD, while spinning of cotton traces back to 3000BC. In China, the discovery and consequent development of sericulture and spin silk method got initiated at 2640BCwhile in Egypt the art of spinning linen and weaving developed in 3400BC. The discovery of machine and their widespread application in processing natural fiber was direct outcome of the industrial revolution of the 18th and 19th centuries. The discoveries of various synthetic Fiber like nylon created a wider market for textile products and gradually led to invention of new and improved sources of natural fiber. The development of transportation and communication facilitated

the path of transaction of localized skills and textile art among various countries.

Company profile

Garden Vareli group of companies, one of the leading industrial groups in India, plays a leading role in the field of fashion fabrics. With annual sales exceeding $ 90 million, they sell their products under a single banner of quality GARDEN.

Garden Silk Mills Ltd. Is one of the leading & oldest manufacturer of synthetic in India. Garden Silk Mills LTD. has been export their product of European markets since late 1970s. The company has made vertical and horizontal integration from establishment.

The company has a three production plant s: one at village Vareli, near kadodra junction, N.H.No.8, the second at village Jolva, near Bardoli, and another at Garden Mills complex, Sahara Gate, Surat. Today the company has total 293 its own retail and authorized outlets all over in India.

The company has achieved a very good brand name in India and International market of Sarees &Dress materials.

History of The Company

The origins of the business go back to 1920 when Mr. Amichand Shah installed the first Hattersley looms in Surat. Since 1920 the company expanded not only by increasing the production capacity and workforce of the business but also by pioneering new material and proceses. The present Chairman and Managing director of Garden Silk Mills Ltd. Mr. Praful Shah is the youngest son of Mr. Amichand Shah. Mr. Praful Shah taken qualification in USA in 1965 after which he joined the company, up to that date Garden Silk Mills Ltd. had activities of the company to including processing cloth by introducing Dyeing, Printing and Finishing processes. As a result of this, the company was able to supply finished textile for the first time. In the 1970s, the company recruited fine arts graduates from leading institutions. An art studio was set up. The company started introducing its own design supplying these design to the market. Prior to this, the design produced had been a function of customer demand and from this manufacturer. This was the first step in building a vertically integrated synthetic textile manufacturer and designer. This move in the early 1970s coincided with the opening of the first retail shop in Surat. The extension of the policy of vertical integration into the retailing sector had advantages of uniform pricing, close market monitoring, improving communication between manufacturer and consumer, and above all exerting downward pressure on the final selling price. The dedicated retail network now extends to some 293 authorized outlets.

In the late 1970s, the company started exporting its product to European markets, given the size of the domestic market ; the proportion of products that

are exported remains low at approximately two percent. The company is in the process of further developing markets in Africa, Central and Eastern Asia. In 1980, the company developed a new site Vareli, some 12 kilometers away from Surat. This has become the main manufacturing plant and investment of more than Rs.2.0 billion has been made. Most of this expenditure has been targeted at the expansion and modernization of plant and equipment, particularly in the weaving and yarn preparatory sections. As a result, the Company today has one of the most modern and sophisticated textile plants in India. In 1995 the company had decided to further its policy of vertical

integration by setting up a new plant, also near Surat, from which manufacturing of polyester filament yarn, one of its principal raw-materials, from polyester chips, is going on. This plant had become on stream at a cost of approximately 655 million rupees.

Activities of the company

The company is primarily engaged in the manufacture of synthetic textile, sarees and dress materials mainly made of polyester yarns and certain intermediate products. Garden Silk Mills Ltd. has been, and continues to be, the initiator of the majority of new textile varieties woven and processed in Surat, is at present, the consumer of approximately 50 percent of polyester yarn in India. The company believes that designs are a key factor in its market and used to produce some 200 different printed designs each month.

The company`s lead in different and improved fabric construction and the emphasis it places on design together with its modern and efficient plant is key to its future success. The company operates in a highly fragmented market where no individual manufacture has a material market share. It is also the leading integrated textile manufacturer house, which undertakes all processes from yarn manufacture to the retailing of dress materials and sarees .

The company, and its wholly owned subsidiary, Garden Finance are also engaged in providing to the Indian corporate sector trade and asset finance including the discounting of Bills of exchange. The company also has a small engineering division, which assembles a limited range of textile manufacturing machines.

Achievements of the Company

The company was first to setup a polyester filaments yarn project in South Gujarat. The project is capable of producing multi-filament & microfilament yarn having a capacity of 5000 Tons per annum in collaboration with NON-VAL LEASINA AG of Switzerland. This project has a special significance for the company, as polyester filament yarn is the basic raw material for the product manufactured by the company. The company was also first in producing of two-for-one Twister in India.

The company`s production facilities boast of one of India`s most sophisticated textile plants at Vareli, Surat(Western India).Its weaving plant comprising Nissan and Tsudakoma water jet looms-the highest number of water jet looms under one roof in India and rapier looms, automatic shuttle change looms etc, high-tech yarn preparatory machines, have a capacity of over 42 Lac meters/month of greige fabric. The plant has an ISO 9002 certification by BVQI. The company also markets high quality dyed and printed fabrics that gets manufactured from associated firms.

General Information of the company

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Board Of Director :Praful A. Shah Chairman

& Management Soly J. Bhesania Director Harshad F. Shah Director Shilpa P. Shah Director Sanjay S. Shah Director Rajen P. Shah Arunchandra N. Jarivala J.P.Shah Alok P.Shah Yatish Parekh Sunil Sheth Smita Shah Madanlal Lankapati Ravinder Singh Nominee of IFCI Limited Wholetime Wholetime Wholetime Wholetime

Company Secrerary Kamlesh Vyas Auditor Natvarlal Vepari & Co. Chartred Accountants Bankers Bank of Baroda Allhabad Bank State Bank of Saurashtra Bank of India Registered Office Garden Mills Compound, Sahara Gate, Surar-395010. Corporate Office Manek Mahal, 90, Veer Nariman Road, Mumbai-400020 Plants 1. Garden Mills Compound, Sahara Gate, Surat 2. Village- Vareli, Ta- Palsana, Dist- Surat 3. Village- Jolva, Ta-Palsana, Dist- Surat.