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Measuring iMac G5 Power Supply Voltages at Connector Plug Pinouts: According to Jim
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Measuring iMac G5 Power Supply Voltages at Connector Plug Pinouts

Mar.17, 2010 in Apple, G5, PSU, iMac, iMac_G5 Exactly how how do you test the PSUs out of the iMacs? How do you turn on the iMac G5 power supply when it is out of the computer?

iMac G5 Power Supply connectors P-1

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. +3.3 BlackA3B +3.3 BlackA3B GND BlackB4B +5v Gray/PurpleA4B GND BlackB4B +5v Gray/PurpleA4B 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. +3.3 BlackA3B +12v BrownA3B GND BlackC4B On/Off Gray GND BlackC4B GND BlackC4B

7. GND BlackB4B 8. PG Blue 9. +5.1Vsb Purple 10. +12v BrownA3B 11. GND

18. 19. 20. 21. 22.

GND BlackC4B +12v BrownA3B +5v Gray/PurpleA4B +5v Gray/PurpleA4B +20v to +24v Brown

On the 661-3350 power supply, jumper pins 15 (gray) and 16 (blk/gnd). This turns the supply on and you should see all the voltages listed above with a DC voltage meter. Between pins 22 and any GND, you will see approx. 24vdc, which is needed for the backlight. Note that the plug is numbered on the wired side of the connector plug. You will need some good lighting to see the numbers. A small flashlight comes in handy. From what I have been able to tell, the other power supplies in both the 17 inch and 20 inch iMac G5 computers all used the same DC voltage pinout arrangements. I believe the voltage pinout arrangements are different on the Intel iMacs and some of the iSight models. Please read the detailed information for repairing Apple iMac G5 power supplies. Note: (see comment #13 below) PG acronym represents the Power Good signal and VSB represents Voltage Stand By. If anyone has more information for any of the power supplies used on the various Mac products, including the various PPC models, Intel Models, and Power Macs, please send it to me. Thank you. Regards, Jim Tags: Apple, G5, iMac, iMac_G5 Comments (23) Share |

23 Responses to Measuring iMac G5 Power Supply Voltages at Connector Plug Pinouts

1 Mike Purdy Says:
March 27th, 2010 at 11:06 AM

Hi Jim, I have a first generation G5 that fell in to the Apple extension program and they fixed it some time ago I believe by replacing the mother board. 2-3 years on and I have been having video problems and now the

on and I have been having video problems and now the unit is dead, well not quite dead as the first two test LEDs come on but not the 3rd nor do the fans work, the disk does power up but no video. I have been following your excellent article and have now replaced all the caps on the mother board but unfortunately that didnt fix it. I have read on the net that if the 2nd led is on then the power supply is OK. So before I have a go at replacing caps on the PS have you any tips regarding the the symptoms. Incidentally when I tested the Caps I removed from the MB they all tested ok and all within there tolerances. Thanks again for your well documented articles on the G5 I will now have a go and test the voltages from the Power supply. One more thing, do you ship the Cap kits to UK? I have had great difficulty in sourcing the correct sizes etc. Cheers Mike 2 Jim Warholic Says:
March 27th, 2010 at 4:22 PM

One of the aspects about a power supply being arbitrarily labeled good with just indicator LEDs coming on is that folks can be easily fooled into a type of go no go indicator. First off, there are numerous voltages that could be partially faulty, through excessive AC ripple, because of bad caps, that can directly affect various areas of the iMac, and still allow it to somewhat boot up. I would personally do a physical inspection of all the caps inside the power supply itself, and also do a very close inspection of the logic board capacitors. Look for any bad caps with even a slight amount of bulging. Sometimes it is very subtle on the bad caps themselves. There might only be a slight bulging top on a bad cap. Additionally, folks are starting to find that many of the bad caps are not even showing physical signs of being bad. Some folks have replaced the caps on the MOB and low and behold, their iMac now works. If you have tried everything else, then this really is about the only option left prior to just giving it away, or selling it on Craigslist or eBay for iMac G5 parts. As far as measuring the caps are concerned; once the caps are removed from the MOB, it is somewhat of a static test even if you are using a capacitance or ESR meter. The reason is that the bad caps can severely break down under heat and loaded conditions, and might check somewhat OK in a static mode, out of the circuit, with no voltage or ripple current applied. By the

way, because a power supply can be putting out more ripple current under load, this can directly affect capacitors throughout the computer. For example, a defective power supply can weaken the caps on the logic card, and bad capacitors on the logic card can weaken the power supply. It is the law of the weak link in the chain that breaks first. That is why, it is important to verify both the PSU and the MOB have good capacitors. I suggest you take a look at some of the other articles I have written in regards to the iMacs for more detailed information. Follow my Apple link for the details. As far as the measurements on these voltages with the PSU out of the box are concerned, they are not under loaded conditions. A flaky power supply can act up under load and produce a lot more ripple, and reduce the voltage below the operation threshold. I have been looking for a power supply tester for an iMac; one that will measure the voltages under loaded conditions, but as yet have not found one. There are numerous PC PSU testers to be found, but none for the Macs that I know of. If anyone knows of one, let me know. Yes, I do ship to the UK and numerous international locations. Visit my ecommerce website at www.jwestsales.com. J West Sales for the Apple inside you, for more information on international shipping. 3 Athanasios Says:
June 29th, 2010 at 10:37 AM

Hi Jim, I replaced the caps I got from you. The Comp worked for about an hour then shut off and would not go on. I then came here and checked the pins and I only have voltage on the 24 line and the 5 volt line on pin 5. What should I check next? Diodes, rectifiers etc. I have an SMD re work station so this type of work is not too hard for me. I did use the heat gun to get some of the caps out as it was easier to do that way. Wonder if that hurt anything? Athansios 4 Jim Warholic Says:
June 29th, 2010 at 2:57 PM

Hello Athansios, It is possible that something else is blown out in the power supply. I know that there are a number of surface

mount devices on the bottom of the power supply board, and it probably is a bad idea to use a heat gun to get the caps out. Note that I think you can do a better job with direct heat from the tip of a soldering iron, than you can do with the heat gun. The solder melts relatively easy with a soldering iron on the PSU. Its a different story on the MOB. So, yes, it is possible something else is hurt by the use of it. At this point in time, it might be time for a new PSU. Write to be directly if you want to know where I recommend buying a new power supply. Regards, Jim 5 Geoff Rogers Says:
July 6th, 2010 at 5:28 PM

Jim, First of all, thank you for all the info on the bad caps. My PSU went out Sept. 09 and I was soon up and running with a new PSU that I installed. Lately my Imac G5 has been turning off, erratically at first, now within a minute of it booting up. There is a click or pop and it is dead. I pulled the new PSU and checked the pin outs and they all had the correct voltage. I left it powered up for a couple hours, the case was only warm, and the voltages were still ok. I reinstalled the PSU and the problem is still there. Is there anything else I can check, or is the next step changing the caps on the motherboard and seeing if that works? Regards, Geoff 6 Jim Warholic Says:
July 6th, 2010 at 8:03 PM

Hello Geoff, Many times the PSU is only the tip of the heat shut down problem. Sometimes the motherboard caps are bad, even though there might not be any visual signs of failure. Here is a recent article I published titled Fat Caps and Ripple Current. The article is an email conversation I had with an expert electronics designer about underrated capacitors and the excessive ripple current that results from poor electronics engineering designs in a wide array of consumer and commercial electronics equipment.

Unfortunately, you might be in a situation where the parts failure cascading effect has resulted in the relatively new power supply, now being pushed to the limit because of weak capacitors on the MOB, and thus you may have a new bad power supply too. The popping sound is probably coming from the PSU. I believe that many folks have experienced the Apple iMac G5 merry-go-round failure effect over the years with having their iMacs repaired by Apple. I have heard numerous stories (actually many have written directly to me) over the years, about how Apple Genius Bar folks have first replaced the motherboard, then months later the power supply was replaced, then again months later the motherboard again. This story has been repeated over and over, and one has to wonder, whats wrong with the design? Is it bad caps, or is it a bad design, or is it Apple squeezing the maximum amount of dollars from each unit they sell by having the designer save a penny here and a penny there, just long enough to get it past the warranty period? The article Fat Caps and Ripple Current addresses some of these issues and is worth reading. As far as where you currently are at with your iMac G5, you might want to read some of the other articles about the iMac computers. Below are a listing of the articles for Apple iMac G5 repairs and capacitor replacements: *Apple iMac G5 Logic Card (Mother Board) Repair and Capacitor Locations *Apple iMac G5 Power Supply Repairs *iSight Logic Board Capacitor Locations *Disassembly Procedure for iMac G5 First and Second Generation iMacs *Measuring the DC Voltages on the iMac G5 Power Supply Pinouts: (You are here) *Comparisons of the Different PSU Types Used in iMac G5 Computers *Hard Drive Replacements *Hard Disk Drive USB Adapter For Mac and PC *Add a Second Monitor to Your iMac G5 Computer Extend the Desktop *Soldering Tips for Lead-Free Soldering

*Installing Capacitors on MOB and PSU Tips and Helps I hope that helps everyone out a bit. Regards, Jim 7 Geoff Rogers Says:
July 7th, 2010 at 9:14 AM

Jim, Thanks for the reply. I had already started reading the other articles on repairing the motherboard. It is good to have a concise listing of all the articles so I dont miss one. Fat Caps and Ripple Current is definitely worth reading to understand what is going on. I am glad you pointed out the cascading effect because I was just looking it at as the PSU or the MOB and not the effect of one on the other, and that is key. Ill read it all twice before I get started. My rant is about Just in time manufacturing since I constantly see signs of Junk in time and the cascade effect of bad components being shipped and turning millions of finished products into junk. Regards, Geoff 8 Glen Says:
July 15th, 2010 at 2:53 AM

Hi Jim, Are you sure that the pin 15-16 power supply activation test is safe and proper to run on all 661-3350 power supplies? The last unit I tried to activate (supposedly new) began making a sizzling sound when I hooked it up. The power supply I tried before that, had just had a capacitor replacement and did the exact same thing. 9 Jim Warholic Says:
July 15th, 2010 at 9:25 AM

I have had many folks confirm this before I posted it. Yes, I am sure that pin 15 and 16 are proper to turn on the power supply. I tested it in the past, but just to make sure, I decided to repair one on the bench that I have as a spare dead iMac G5 for trouble shooting purposes just now. When I first opened the iMac, I found 7 blown caps on the MOB and then opened up the

PSU and found 6 additional bulging caps in there too. I tried jumpering across pins 15 and 16 and nothing happened. Then, I replaced the total caps in the PSU and then tried the jumper test again. Success for the PSU repair! The power supply turned on, using the jumper technique, and I measured all the voltages using a multimeter, set on DC measurements. Once again, the numbers on the pins are located on the wired side of the connector. So, you need to verify that you are on the correct pins before you hook up your jumper. If you are not careful, it is easy to get the pin numbers mixed up. Also, if you trace pin 15, the gray wire, you will see that it goes to the PSU circuit board and the circuit board is labeled on/off right at the point where the wire enters the circuit board. This is a good way of making sure you are on the correct pin, though you would need to open up the case of the power supply in order to verify this. 10 Adam H Says:
July 26th, 2010 at 4:37 PM

Hi Jim, First, thanks for this amazing info youve got here for PSU troubleshooting. Im beginning to test a 661-3350 PSU and am going to start by checking for the correct pin/voltage relationships. Im looking at the pinout youve got labeled for this supply and everywhere that youve got the label gray or gray/purple Ive got a brown. Everything seems to jive as far as the pattern of colors its only the gray that seems to be replaced with brown. Maybe they ran out of gray wire that day in the factory?? Any thoughts? Thanks in advance. 11 Jim Warholic Says:
July 26th, 2010 at 5:46 PM

The main thing is to verify the pins for the jumper. As far as the colors are concerned, I guess it is possible that the gray wires are now brown on some of the PSUs. Once again, the voltages should still check the same between the appropriate pins. 12 Dave K Says:
August 24th, 2010 at 2:23 PM

Hi Jim, Excuse my stupidity, but what does the PG mean

on pin number 8? Im getting around 5 volts on pin 8. Thanks Dave 13 Jim Warholic Says:
August 24th, 2010 at 4:54 PM

Hi Dave, In this case, I believe the PG acronym represents the Power Good signal. I found the following reference in the Wikipedia when it comes to talking about power supplies in general for PCs. In addition to the voltages and currents that a computer needs to operate, power supplies also provide a signal called the Power-Good signal, sometimes written as Power_OK or Power_Good or you can distinguish it by its gray color. Its purpose is to tell the computer all is well with the power supply and that the computer can continue to operate normally. If the Power-Good signal is not present at startup, the CPU is held in reset state. If a Power-Good signal goes down during operation the CPU will shutdown. The PowerGood signal prevents the computer from attempting to operate on improper voltages and damaging itself. The ATX specification defines the Power-Good signal as a +5 volt (V) signal generated in the power supply when it has passed its internal self-tests and the outputs have stabilized. This normally takes between 0.1 and 0.5 seconds after the power supply is switched on. The signal is then sent to the motherboard, where it is received by the processor timer chip that controls the reset line to the processor. So, it sounds like your PSU is saying that the voltages are good, however, I suspect you are measuring this under no load conditions. 14 Cid Says:
September 16th, 2010 at 12:57 PM

Hello Jim. Cheers for all your hard work on the website. I have replace the caps in a couple of G5s and

managed to get working units for my children. I have picked up another G5 and Im pretty sure that the logic board is working fine as it was a good unit that a customer salvaged the working PSU from. I have another couple of PSUs on hand which Im trying to get running with limited luck. One of the PSUs is a DD type PSU. It was only putting out 24VDC on pin 24. No other VDC on any of the other pins. It did have a couple of popped caps, which I replaced, however the unit still wont turn on when I jumper pins 15 and 16. I think maybe this PSU is a dead I have another PSU which is behaving a little weird. It will power on fine but after approx 60-90 seconds it will power off completely. So that none of the diagnostic lights on the logic board are lit. If I take of the mains and leave it for 60 seconds, then plug it back in, the unit will fire up again for approx 60-90 seconds. This PSU unit doesnt look like any on your website. The sticker reads Delta Electronics INC Model DPS-180QB A Apple PN 614-0329 Im half thinking this might be a replacement unit as opposed to an original Apple part. None of the caps look bad, so Im not sure if there is anything i can do to fix it. Its a little frustrating as the unit does power on. It seems as if the load on the unit causes it to trip out. Any ideas or comments would be welcome. Otherwise I will wait for another salvage G5 to come my way. Cheers Cid. 15 Jim Warholic Says:
September 16th, 2010 at 10:25 PM

Hello Cid, Thank you for the comments about the website. I was thinking about your missing voltages problem child PSU, and think that there is probably something else blown out completely, closer to the front end of the PSU. There are all types of other components that could get taken out when capacitors become so bad that it

draws excessive current and causes a loading effect internally. This is why it is always a good idea to replace bad caps as soon as they become visually apparent instead of waiting for the entire PSU to die completely. The other PSU probably has one of the surface mount transistors or control chips blown out. Id be curious if the PSU will power up by itself, and stay on under no load. It would be interesting to note what the voltages are in this condition. You also might be able to check the surface mount transistors on the bottom of the PCB and see if any of the emitter base or base collector junctions are shorted or open. If you find any that do not compare the same as the others, then you might be able to replace it from one power supply to the other. Just look for the same p/n on the surface mount transistor, though you might need a magnifying glass to read it. Regards, Jim 16 Cid Says:
September 17th, 2010 at 3:59 AM

Hello Jim. Cheers for the swift reply and advice. Very decent of you to help people in this fashion. The power supply which doesnt work at all will go into my junk electronics box from where i salvage bits if required. The other PSU I will test the voltages when not under load and see if it still cuts out after 60-90 seconds and then post back with the results. Cheers once again.. Cid. 17 al Says:
September 20th, 2010 at 2:56 PM

Hi Jim, Well I have a 20 iMac G5 2.1ghz 3rd which would turn on but not display anything but just the white corner light. I removed the logic board and found 2 popped caps. I replaced both of them, put everything back together and now it wont turn on at all. The four leds

are not even lit. I plugged the iMac without the logic board installed and measured the pw supply but everything checks out. I can even hear the hard drive. did I miss something here? 18 Jim Warholic Says:
September 20th, 2010 at 3:37 PM

Well, first off, I can pretty much guarantee that you have other bad caps besides the ones that you replaced on the MOB that were bulging. Second off, you might have missed something on the cabling when putting it back together. Third off, you didnt mention anything about checking the capacitors in the PSU itself. Now, it is possible that just replacing the visually bad caps on the MOB has now progressed to the next weak link. I always recommend replacing the entire two types and banks of capacitors on the MOB. You simply can not be sure the other ones are good and will forever be second guessing yourself as to are they or arent they good caps. By the way, if you are hearing the hard drive, then something is turning on. Maybe you need to reset the PRAM and the SMU. It could be the PSU is faulty under loaded conditions too. 19 Diskyro Says:
October 27th, 2010 at 7:08 AM

Hy Does anyone have a schematic or a pin out diagram of a power supply PA-3241-02A1 from a IMAC A1225; I want to test and repair that power supply and for that I need a schematic or at least a pin out to identify the power on pin.Thanks 20 jenni porter Says:
November 16th, 2010 at 11:30 AM

Jim, You are by far one of the kindest and knowledgeable guys out there. Can you answer a couple of questions for troubleshooting my bad iMac G5 power supply? I got the thing out and jumpered the pins. I started testing with my multimeter between pins 11 (gnd) and 22 (24v). I got the 21.3 volt reading. How do I test the other pins? With one end at pin 22 or at ground?

When I test between pin 22 and any other pin I get the same 21.3 v reading. When I test between 11 and any other pin I get zero. Could you explain a little more on how to test for voltage on each of the pins? Thanks and keep up the good work. J 21 Jim Warholic Says:
November 16th, 2010 at 2:04 PM

Hi Jenni, Basically, once the power supply is turned on, by jumpering the appropriate pins [15 (gray) and 16 (blk/gnd)] as outlined above, then you would proceed to measure the voltages from ground pins to the voltage pins using the multimeter set on DC. You could also check to see if there is any AC ripple on each of the voltage pins referenced to ground. To do this measurement simply set your meter from DC to AC readings. If there is excessive ripple, it will show up as an AC voltage reading on the DC pinout. Hope that helps explain it a bit more. 22 jinni porter Says:
November 16th, 2010 at 4:08 PM

Thanks for the response. Youre confirming that I was doing it right, Im just not getting any readings except between the 24v pin and ground. All the grounds are common so it doesnt matter which one is probed with the meter right? The only voltage read is from ground to pin 11 at 21 volts. I thought that I was doing something wrong because measuring between a ground and any other pin has no voltage. Do you have any ideas on where to start looking to fix with these readings? Thanks again, JJ 23 Jim Warholic Says:
November 16th, 2010 at 5:40 PM

I believe all the grounds are the same. You can verify that with the PSU unplugged and see if the pins are common with one another. I also certainly recommend

opening up the PSU and inspect the capacitors for any signs of bulging as can be seen in my PSU article. If the caps do not show any signs of being bad, and still the voltages are missing on some of the pins, and you do have voltages on other pins, which means the internal fuse on the circuit board is good, then it is most likely another physical component that is bad. Note that there have never been any schematics published online for the PSUs, which makes it a bit difficult to troubleshoot down to a component level.

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Marketing and Advertising Convergence

Standing Out From The Crowd The online market place is very unique in the marketing and advertising aspects of the business. Marketing and advertising are on a convergence course. Doing one disciplinary, without an understanding of the other disciplinary could be limiting your bottom line sales. I have said many times that it is getting more difficult to judge whether a web page is first an online marketing concept or a creative advertising..

Advertising Message or Sales Conversion Problem?

So now you are advertising your business, and are bringing in people but hardly any of them are becoming customers. What's the problem? Is it the advertising message, the targeted audience, or the sales conversion process? Chuck McKay, an advertising and marketing consultant, who wrote a book titled "Fishing For Customers" and also writes in a blog by the same name Fishing For Customers , wrote an interesting article titled, The Flaw in the..

Getting Leads Almost Immediately

There is an advertising solution for your business that can

start generating leads and sales almost immediately. The solution is to use Pay-per-click, PPC advertising. This form of advertising can be highly selective, and you only have to pay for the budget that you set forth. Online Advertising Google, Yahoo, and Microsoft Search all have similar forms of online advertising programs that can be targeted to select groups of individuals base..

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