Ready Made Garments Sector

And it’s Contribution to the Bangladesh Economy

Letter of Transmittal

Date: 05 April 2011

To
Imrana Sharmin
Lecturer
Department of Economics
Faculty of Business Administration

Subject: Submission of term paper on Contribution of Garments Industry in Bangladesh

Economy

Dear Madam,
Here we are submitting our term paper on
“Contribution of Garments Industry in Bangladesh Economy” prescribed by you in your
course. For this Purpose, we have gone through internet, different books, articles,
journals, interview of authorities and employees of the respective organizations and class
lecture sheets for the relevant information of the assigned topic.

Please call me for any further information at your convenient time and place.

Yours truly,

Taukir Ahmed
2009-2-10-246
Ph: 01617839494
ABSTRACT

For last 40 years, the RMG industry started developing in Bangladesh primarily as an
export-oriented industry although; the domestic market for RMG has been increasing fast
due to increase in personal disposable income, increase in per capital income and change
in life style. The sector rapidly attained high importance in terms of employment, foreign
exchange earnings and its contribution to Real GDP. RMG industry of Bangladesh now
accounts for over 76% of the country's total export earning which is 13% of the total
GDP. The success of readymade garment exports from Bangladesh over the past two
decades has crossed the most optimistic expectations. The paper reviews the history of
our cloth Industry, present condition of RMG sector, export earning in different fiscal
year, contribution to the GDP, social impact of this sector, and the opportunities as well.
Here we have also mentioned the problems and the prospects about the RMG sector of
our country.
 Table of contents

01. INTRODUCTION…………………………………………………........…...…..…..05

02. DISCUSSION…………………………………………………………………..……05

2.1 Garments Industry in Bangladesh……………………………….……….……06

2.2 History of our cloth Industry…………………………………………………..06
2.3The Present Scenario of RMG Industry in Bangladesh ………………....…….06
2.4 Export………………………………………………………………………… 06
2.5 Export income of different fiscal years………………………………………..08
2.6 Contribution of the RMG Industry in terms of GDP …………….………...11
2.7 Social impact of RMG Sector ……………….………………………….…… 16
2.8 Problems of RMG Sector ……………………………….…………………….17
2.9 Safety Needs……………………………………..............................................17
2.10 Prospects of RMG Sector ……………………………….…………………..18
2.11 Challenges of RMG Industry…………………………….…………………..20

03. CONCLUSION ………………………….………………………………....………..21

01. INTRODUCTION

The tremendous success of readymade garment exports from Bangladesh over the last
two decades has surpassed the most optimistic expectations. Today the apparel export
sector is a multi-billion-dollar manufacturing and export industry in the country. The
overall impact of the readymade garment exports is certainly one of the most significant
social and economic developments in contemporary Bangladesh. With over one and a
half million women workers employed in semi-skilled and skilled jobs producing
clothing for exports, the development of the apparel export industry has had far-reaching
implications for the society and economy of Bangladesh

02. DISCUSSION

2.1 Garments Industry in Bangladesh:

Like other 3rd world countries Bangladesh is a developing country. Her economic
development depends firstly on Agriculture and secondly on Industry. Although
Bangladesh is not developed in industry, it has been enriched in Garment industries in the
recent past years. In the field of Industrialization garment industry is a promising step. It
has given the opportunity of employment to millions of unemployed, especially
innumerable uneducated women of the country. It is making significant contribution in
the field of our export income.

2.2 History:

Once upon a time the cloth of Bangladesh achieved worldwide fame. Maslin and Jamdani
cloth of our country were used as the luxurious garments of the royal figures in Europe
and other countries. The British rulers in India didn’t develop our cloth industries at all.
Rather they destroyed them and imported cloths from England. After the emergence of
Bangladesh radical change has come to our garment sector. Garment industries started
working from the 10's of the late century.
2.3 Present Scenario:

After the emergence of Bangladesh radical change has come to our garment sector.
Garment industries started working from the 10's of the late century. At present there are
about 3000 garment industries in the country and 75 percent of them are in Dhaka. The
rest are in Chittagong and Khulna. These Industries have employed fifty lacks of people
and 85 percent of them are illiterate rural women. About 76 percent of our export earning
comes from this sector. The RMG workers received USD 315.25 million as their wage in
FY 2002. This purchasing power contributed significantly to the growth of the economy
through its multiplier impact in terms of consumption expenditure and savings.

2.4 Export:

To about 30 countries around the world, Bangladesh presently exports ready-made

garments, with over 45% to USA, 50% to the countries in EU and 3% to Canada and rest
to the other countries of the world. Bangladesh is known in these countries as -
“Bangladesh is a small country with a strong presence.”
 Rank Origin Amount (Million US$) Rate of change
(%)
2004 2005 2006 2004/05 2005/06
World 66,875 70,811 73,393 5.89 3.65
1 China 10,723 16810 19868 56.77 18.19
2 Mexico 6,845 6,230 5,448 -8.99 -12.55
3 Indonesia 2,402 2,882 3,675 19.99 27.50
4 India 2,277 3 ,059 3,242 34.31 6.00
5 Vietnam 2,506 2,665 3,158 6.37 18.49
6 Hong Kong 3,878 3,524 2,817 -9.13 -20.08
7 Bangladesh 1,872 2,268 2,809 21.17 23.85
8 Honduras 2,742 2,685 2,518 -2.09 -6.24
9 Cambodia 1,418 1,703 2,131 20.08 25.17
10 Philippines 1,765 1,822 1,999 3.21 9.70
11 Thailand 1,823 1,833 1,859 0.60 1.39
12 Sri Lanka 1,553 1,653 1,687 6.46 2.03
13 Guatemala 1,947 1,817 1,667 -6.66 -8.28
14 Dominican Republic 2,036 1,831 1,535 -10.09 -16.14
15 Italy 1,585 1,520 1,474 -4.12 -2.98
16 Pakistan 1,147 1,273 1,427 10.99 12.11

Note: Knit and woven garments are defined as commodities with HS codes of 61 and 62.
Sources of data: U.S Dept. of Commerce, Bureau of Census by World Trade Atlas.

Table: Region-wise Share of RMG Export

Year Export share Export share Combined Export Share
to USA to European Share of USA of Other
Countries & EU (%) Countries (%)
2001-2002 42.67 55.43 98.10 1.90
2002-2003 38.02 57.12 95.14 4.86
2003-2004 28.64 65.42 94.06 5.94
2004-2005 30.64 64.24 94.88 5.12
2005-2006 33.67 49.77 83.43 16.57

Position of Bangladesh is exporting product in USA is not very satisfactory but this
situation is better than any other condition of the previous time. But if our Government
take some essential law and break out the wall of biasness then the position of
Bangladesh in Garments sector would be hope to better. Country's apparel export has
been growing on an average at the rate of 25% for last several years. The country,in 2004
ranked 7th largest apparel exporter to the USA the EU.

2.5 Export income of different fiscal years:

Items of exportable garments:

Among the garments of Bangladesh are shirt, pajama, jeans-pant, jacket, trouser, hats,
laboratory coat, sweater, pullover, jumper, jacket, trousers, gloves, sports dress,
nightdress etc.

MAIN APPAREL ITEMS EXPORTED FROM BANGLADESH (in Million. US$)

Year Shirt T-Shirt Trousers Jackets Sweater

1993-94 805.34 225.90 80.56 126.85 -
1994-95 791.20 232.24 101.23 146.83 -
1995-96 807.66 366.36 112.02 471.73 70.41
1996-97 759.57 391.21 230.98 309.21 196.60
1997-98 961.13 388.50 333.28 467.19 296.29
1998-99 1043.11 471.88 394.85 393.44 271.7
1999-2000 1021.17 563.58 484.06 439.77 325.07
2000-2001 1073.59 597.42 656.33 573.74 476.87
2001-2002 666.18 403.98 449.18 296.82 362.23
(Jul-Mar)

Source: BGMEA.
In 1977-78 fiscal years Bangladesh exported forty thousand shirts in Germany and earned
one million U.S. dollar. At the beginning of the 80's this industry flourished rapidly. In
1983-84 fiscal years the income from garments raised to 6 corers 50 lakh US dollar. In
1998-99 it became 420 corers U.S. dollar. By 2003-2004 the factories multiplied three
times. Simultaneously the export has also increased. The amount of export income in
2003-2004 increased to 568 corers US dollar. Starting in late seventies, the apparel
industry of Bangladesh now accounts for over 76% of the country's total export earning.
Country's apparel export rose to US$2809 million in 2006 from a mere US$6 million in
1981.

Year Export (in US $ million) Percentage change

1991 – 92 624.16 32.49
1992 – 93 866.82 38.88
1993 – 94 1182.57 36.43
1994 – 95 1445.02 22.19
1995 – 96 1555.79 7.67
1996 – 97 2228.35 43.47
1997 – 98 2547.13 14.11
1998 – 99 3001.25 17.83
1999 – 00 3781.94 26.01
2000 – 01 4019.98 6.29
2001 - 02 4349.41 8.19
2002 – 03 4859.83 11.74
2003 – 04 4583.75 5.68
2004 – 05 4912.12 7.21
2005 – 06 5686.09 15.83
2006 --07 6745.40 15.07
2007--08 7621.62 11.4
2008--09 8460.09 13.8
2009--10 9835.59 16.6

2.6 Contribution of the RMG Industry:

In terms of REAL GDP:

In terms of GDP, RMG’s contribution is highly remarkable; it reaches 13 percent of
GDP which was only about 3 percent in FY91. This is a clear indication of the industry’s
contribution to the overall economy. It also plays a pivotal role to promote the
development of other key sectors of the economy like banking, insurance, shipping, hotel,
tourism, road transportation, railway container services, etc.
There are about 2500 export oriented ready-made garment industry in Bangladesh those
are clustered over mainly Dhaka and Chittagong. Such distribution offers buyers
advantage to choose the right manufacturers and exporters, throughout the year, with
minimum effort. It is a huge surprise that the top foreign currency earner that earns
annually on average 76 per cent of the country's hard currencies from exports and
employs the greatest number of workers in the organized garments industrial sectors,
such a monolith should be shown no concern when the government's long awaited
package program for the recession hit export-oriented industries was unveiled last week.
It is, as if, the policy planners are obsessed about molehills while the mountain remains
ignored. Following is a chart to show the contribution of numerous industries in
Bangladesh:

Year Product Export %

RMG 12347.77 79.33 Source: Export Promotion
Frozen 454.53 2.92
Bureau, Bangladesh (Value in
Food
Tea 12.29 0.08 Million US$)
Raw Jute 148.17 0.95
Chemical 421.58 2.71
FIGURE
2008-09 Product
Jute Goods 373.18 2.40
Leather 177.32 1.14 Banking and Insurance
Agricultura 122.3 0.79
l Product
Others 1508.06 9.69
Total 15565.19 100.00
Growths of the RMG sector and the related activities have contributed a lot to the robust
growth of the financial sector in Bangladesh. In FY 2002 the banking sector earned about
37 million dollars from business with the RMG sector in the form of interest and charges
and L/C charges. More than one-tenth of the commercial banks’ asset portfolio belongs to
the RMG and textile sector in the country [Appendix table 2]. In FY 2001 commercial
banks lent Taka 4400 crore to the textile sector, while the amount lent to the woven-RMG
sector was Taka 812 crore. The export financing business of the commercial banks is
largely dependent on the textile and RMG sectors. The RMG sector received Taka 2175
crore as export-finance in FY 2001 which was 46.14% of the total export financing
portfolio of the banks. A World Bank7 survey revealed that almost all firms (98%) are
the clients of the commercial banks for working capital and procurement of machines and
equipment (57%).
The RMG sector has also contributed to the growth of the country’s insurance sector. On
average, every year the premium paid by the RMG sector to the insurance companies was
about 6 million dollars. All firms have their machines and plants insured and,
additionally, 87% of importers of input and 15% of the RMG exporters get their
imports/exports insured.

Shipping and Logistics

The RMG sector has contributed to the shipping business in Bangladesh and stimulated
setting up of several container yards, expansion of port facilities to handle large container
carrying trains, increase of cargo handling and storage facilities. RMG manufacturers
also extensively use services of Clearing & Forwarding Agents for the purpose of
customs clearance of inputs and finished goods. It is estimated that port usage fees earned
from the RMG sector account for more than 40% of the income of the port authority.
RMG sector contributed about US$65 million in FY2002 to earnings of the Shipping
business of the country by way of port charges, C&F Agent’s commissions, freight
charges, forwarding charges etc.

Transport Communication
The growth and development of inland transport services to a considerable extent owe to
the growth of the RMG industry. Both wheel transport service and railway service are
widely used by RMG sector for activities related to manufacturing and cargo movement.
The concept of covered van emerged in Bangladesh for safe transportation of the RMG
products in particular. In 2002 the inland transport industry received about 27.3 million
dollars as revenue from the RMG sector.

Contribution to Government Exchequer

The RMG sector contributes to the government exchequer both directly and indirectly. In
FY 2002 the sector paid 6.3 million dollars as stamp and postage, license renewal fee etc.
Payments made for visa form, license form, GSP form and other forms to the Export
Promotion Bureau amounted to 58.85 million dollars in FY2001 [See Appendix Table 6
and 7]. The sector also paid USD 2.4 million to the government as direct taxes in FY
2002.

Professional Services

The RMG sector extensively uses professional services from CA firms, legal agencies,
and business consultants. In FY 2002 total payment for professional services is estimated
at 3.61 million dollars.

Engineering Sector

The RMG industry paid 14.2 million dollars to the engineering sector which included
payments to repairing and maintenance service industry (USD 4.29 million), electrical
engineering (USD 4.38 million), transport vehicle maintenance service ( USD 2.87
Million), and machine tools service (USD 2.63 Million).

Utility Services
Payment of Electricity bill by the RMG industry is estimated to be 14.74 million dollars
in FY2002. Utility payments for gas, WASA etc. amounted to an additional 3.75 million
dollars.

Information and Communication Technology

The RMG sector also plays a catalytic role in the growth of the country’s ICT sector. The
services consumed by the RMG industry generated revenue for the ICT sector. Payments
for ICT services which include communication, hardware and software services is
estimated at 9.88 million dollars in FY 2002.

Real Estate

Demand for real estate development by the garment industry to accommodate offices and
factories of over 3400 garment units has generated a lot of activities in the Construction
Industry. The RMG industries paid approximately 26.24 million dollars as factory, office
and garage rent in FY 2002.

Hotel and Tourism

About 1000-1500 overseas apparel buyers and their representatives visit Bangladesh
every year for business purpose. In FY2002 the RMG industry created a business of
approximately 4.42 million dollars for the country’s tourism industry.

Waste Recycling Industry

Approximately 0.2 million people are engaged in waste (mainly, the waste out prices of
fabrics) recycling industry of the country which get their materials from the RMG
industries. With these waste materials, they are making stuff toys, patterns, quilts,
cushions etc.

Emerging Consumer Market

The 1.6 million workers in the industry have created a large demand for consumer goods.
A regular source of earning increases the basic consumption needs such as improved diet,
better healthcare, improvements in family utensils and housing conditions etc. The sector
has created an increasing demand for consumption of low cost commodities, cosmetics
items, dresses, footwear, fast food and other products. A whole industry has been created
to service this growing demand and created employment opportunities for hundreds of
thousands of people.

2.7 SOCIAL IMPACTS OF THE RMG SECTOR

Women Empowerment

It is well recognized that women’s participation in income generation activities lends

them a better status within the family and provides them with considerable freedom. A
job ensures equitable access to household resources (nutrition) and larger investment on
female human capital (health and education). .At present, this sector has created highest
employment opportunity in the country where nearly 2 million women are working.
As a result the distress, poor, divorced and suppressed women of the
country now don’t think themselves as helpless.
Savings
Regular earning enables a large number of the garment workers to go for some savings.
Workers also get family pension schemes etc. Thus they create savings.
Child Labor
Bangladesh responded positively to the international requirement of elimination of child
labor from the garments sector. Under the Memorandum of Understanding jointly signed
by BGMEA, ILO, UNICEF and US Embassy, Dhaka on 4 July 1994, Bangladesh
pledged to eliminate child labor by November 1996. Accordingly, it took necessary
measures to do so. The laid-off children were provided financial support so that they
could attend schools until they attain the age of 15. BGMEA and some NGOs jointly
operate a number of schools for these children

Population Control
Employment opportunities especially for women created positive impact on family
planning and population control in the country. Independent working-women are getting
more conscious about the advantage of a small family, and they are adopting modern
family planning methods. Adolescent girls are working to avoid early marriage as they
have their own source of income and are self-dependent.

2.8 Problems Regarding With RMG:

The garment industry of Bangladesh has been the key export division and a main source
of foreign exchange for the last 25 years. National labor laws do not apply in the EPZs,
leaving BEPZA in full control over work conditions, wages and benefits. Garment
factories in Bangladesh provide employment to 40 percent of industrial workers. But
without the proper laws the worker are demanding their various wants and as a result
conflict is began with the industry, such as,

• Low working salary is another vital fact which makes the labor conflict.
• Worker made strike, layout to capture their demand. Some time bonus And the
overtime salary is the important cause of crisis
• Insufficient government policy about this sector is a great problem in Garments
Company.
• lack of marketing tactics
• absence of easily on-hand middle management a small number of manufacturing
 • lack of training organizations for industrial workers, managers and supervisors,
managers, autocratic approach of nearly all the investors
• fewer process units for textiles and garments
• sluggish backward or forward blending procedure , incompetent ports entry/exit
complicated and loading/unloading takes much time
• time-consuming custom

2.9 Safety Needs

Safety need for the worker is mandatory to maintain in all the organization. But without
the facility of this necessary product a lot of accident is occur incurred every year in
most of the company. Some important cause of the accident are given below-
● Routes are blocked by storage materials
● Machine layout is often staggered
● Lack of signage for escape route
● No provision for emergency lighting
● Doors, opening along escape routes, are not fire resistant.
● Doors are not self-closing and often do not open along the direction of escape.
● Adequate doors as well as adequate staircases are not provided to aid quick exit
● Fire exit or emergency staircase lacks proper maintenance
● Lack of proper exit route to reach the place of safety
● Parked vehicles, goods and rubbish on the outside of the building obstruct exits to the
open air
● Fire in a Bangladesh factory is likely to spread quickly because the principle of
compartmentalization is practiced
● Lack of awareness among the workers and the owners

But now the situation is much improved and we found, all the surveyed garments are
fulfilling the requirement of emergency exit. It is provided in all the cases, signage is
present and fire fighting equipments are up to date, a departure from the past. Even fire
drill is held once in a month.
2.10 Prospects of the RMG Industry

Despite many difficulties faced by the RMG industry over the past years, it continued to
show its robust performance and competitive strength. Factors like price competitiveness,
enhanced GSP facility, market and product diversification, cheap labor, increased
backward integration, high level of investment, and government support are among the
key factors that helped the country to continue the momentum in export earnings in the
apparel sector. Some of these elements are reviewed below:

Market Diversification
Bangladeshi RMG products are mainly destined to the US and EU. Back in 1996-97,
Bangladesh was the 7th and 5th largest apparel exporter to the USA and European Union
respectively. The industry was successful in exploring the opportunities in markets away
from EU and US. In FY07, a successful turnaround was observed in exports to third
countries, which having a negative growth in FY06 rose three-fold in FY07, which
helped to record 23.1 percent overall export growth in the RMG sector. It is anticipated
that the trend of market diversification will continue and this will help to maintain the
growth momentum of export earnings.

Product Diversification
In the globalize economy and ever-changing fashion world, product diversification is the
key to continuous business success. It is clear that value addition accrues mostly in the
designer items, and the sooner local entrepreneurs can catch on to this trend the brighter
be the RMG future.

Backward Integration
RMG industry in Bangladesh has already proved itself to be a resilient industry and can
be a catalyst for further industrialization in the country. If Bangladesh wants to enjoy
increased market access created by the global open market economy it has no alternative
but to produce textile items competitively at home through the establishment of backward
linkage with the RMG industry.
Flow of Investment
It is important to have significant flow of investment both in terms of finance and
technology. However further progress would be necessary to improve and sustain
competitiveness on a global scale.
Policy Regime of Government
Government of Bangladesh has played an active role in designing policy support to the
RMG sector that includes back-to-back L/C, bonded warehouse, cash incentives, export
credit guarantee scheme, tax holiday and related facilities. The reduced tax rates and
other facilities are likely to have a positive impact on the RMG sector.
Labor Productivity
In Bangladesh, the garment workers are mostly women with little education and training.
Bangladesh must look for ways to improve the productivity of its labor force if it wants to
compete regionally if not globally.

]Research and Training

The country has no dedicated research institute related to the apparel sector. RMG is
highly fashion oriented and constant market research is necessary to become successful in
the business. A facilitating public sector role can be very relevant here.

2.11 Challenges of RMG Industry:

Both external and internal factors contributed to the phenomenal growth of RMG sector.
One external factor was the application of the GATT-approved Multifibre Arrangement
(MFA) which accelerated international relocation of garment production. Under MFA,
large importers of RMG like USA and Canada imposed quota restrictions, which limited
export of apparels from countries like Hong Kong, South Korea, Singapore, Taiwan,
Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, Sri Lanka and India to USA and Canada. On the other
hand, application of MFA worked as a blessing for Bangladesh. As a least developed
country, Bangladesh received preferential treatment from the USA and European Union
(EU). Initially Bangladesh was granted quota-free status. To maintain competitive edge
in the world markets, the traditionally large suppliers/producers of apparels followed a
strategy of relocating RMG factories in countries, which were free from quota restrictions
and at the same time had enough trainable cheap labour. They found Bangladesh as a
promising country. So RMG industry grew in Bangladesh. The application of MFA had
negative impact on many garments exporting countries. The countries, which were
adversely affected by quotas under MFA, created pressure to discontinue MFA by
integrating textile and clothing industries into GATT system. As a result, the Uruguay
Round negotiations envisaged the phasing out of MFA by the end of 2004. With the
phasing out of MFA, the position of Bangladesh in the world market will change as all
countries including those under quota restrictions, will enjoy quota free status.
Bangladesh will have to compete with a larger number of established and powerful
suppliers of readymade garments. Bangladesh has taken some steps to face the new
challenges. Such steps include removing infrastructural bottlenecks, building additional
supply capacity, use of cost reduction strategy, and increase in value-addition through
backward integration.

03. Conclusion:

Garments industry operators in Bangladesh are feared of the present situation. The
regaining of this competitiveness involves the government extending an adequate
package program of assistance to the garments sector at the soonest. Much harm has been
already caused to this sector from not extending such assistance to it a lot earlier. But
there is still opportunity for government to limit damages in this sector by the earliest
announcement of a package program that should include at least ten per cent cash
assistance, withdrawal of value added tax (VAT), reduction of port charges, supply of
diesel at subsidized prices to run generators, decreasing interest rate on credits to a single
digit, allowing the rescheduling of classified loans on longer terms basis, etc.
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