Blodlesel is a fuel that's thin enough to spray from a diesel engine's fuel-injection system. A commercial biodiesel production plant shares more in oommon with a large-scale bakery than a petroleum refinery. You don 't n eedany special equipment - anold juice bottle will serve as the "reactor" vessel.
Blodlesel is a fuel that's thin enough to spray from a diesel engine's fuel-injection system. A commercial biodiesel production plant shares more in oommon with a large-scale bakery than a petroleum refinery. You don 't n eedany special equipment - anold juice bottle will serve as the "reactor" vessel.
Blodlesel is a fuel that's thin enough to spray from a diesel engine's fuel-injection system. A commercial biodiesel production plant shares more in oommon with a large-scale bakery than a petroleum refinery. You don 't n eedany special equipment - anold juice bottle will serve as the "reactor" vessel.
t's easy to make a small batch of
biodiesel that will work inary diesel
engine. You don't need any spectal
equipment — an old juice bottle will
serves the “reactor” vessel — and
on such a small scale you can quickly
refine your technique and perform
further experiments. After a few liters
worth of experience, you'll know if
you've been bitten by the biodiesel bug.
The principle behind biodieseling is to
take vegetable oil (either new or used).
and process itinto a fuel that's thin
enough to spray froma regular diesel
engine's fuel-injection system. This is,
done chemically, by converting the oll
into two types of compounds: biodiesel,
which shares the original of’s combus-
tibility, and glycerin, which retains the
oil's thick, viscous properties. Drain
away the glycerin, and you're left with
a fuel that you can pour into any diesel
vehicle with no further modification
Once you get to the far side of the
learning curve, making biodieselis very
muchiike cooking. In fact, a commercial
biodiesel production plant shares more
in common with a large-scale bakery
thana petroleumrefinery, There's
organic chemistry involvedin baking,
a cake, but most bakers wouldn't con-
sider themselves organic chemists
6B Wore viurecd
BIODIESEL. CHEITUSTRY
‘Vegetable oll isa triglyceride, which means that its molecule
consists ofa glycorin “backbono” with throe fatty acids attachot
‘forming a shape like a capital letter E.Te make biodiesel, we adel
Iye and methanol. The highly caustic lye breaks the three fatty acid
branches off of the glycerin backbone. These free fatty acids then
bon with the methanol, which turns them into fatty acid methy!
asters — othorwise known as biodlosel. The froed glyecrin, which
is heavier, sinks to the bottom, leaving the fuel (ane! lye) on top.
Wash the lye out of the upper layer, and you have pure biodiesel
But it's not that simple. With some triglyeeride molecules only
one or two fatty-acid branches break off, which leaves mono- or
dl-lyceride molecules (shaped like capital Ts or Fs), rather than
{roo glycorin. At the same time, mixing methanol and lye produces
some water —and oil, water. ane lye mixed together make soap.
With all of these incomplete and competing chemical reactions,
‘your batch will inevitably contain soap, water, laftover lye, methanol.
and mono” and diglycerides, along with the nice biodiesel and glye
arin, Mono- and di-lycorides are emulsifiers, so thy prevant mixod
liquids from separating, making it harder to extract biodiesel. The
Picture gets even mucdier when youuse waste vegetable oll rather
‘than pure oll since it contains free fatty aids, ator. and countless.
random contaminants from al those French fries,
‘These by-products are bad for an engine, potontially causing
mmicrovabrasions that damage fuel injectors or clog fuel filters. But
you can remove them by washing or cooking the biodiesel in various
‘ways, or by processing the incompletely converted biodiesol agai
as iF it were vegetable ol. In extreme cases, you'l end up with a
thick, soapy mass that never separates. All biodieselers wind up
witha batch of this glop sooner or later, Fortunately, you can use it
‘tomake a good, grease-cutting soap — which is something that all
biodiesel homebrewers need to have on hand.
Photography by Sara HustonMATERIALS
ial
Either now or waste vogotab/eallisfine. fyouaro using
waste al try making batches wih samples fromaflerert
restaurants’ grease barrels
el
Sod at auto partestores. You can by larger quantities in bulk
from loca! autoracing sunol ers, petroleum cistibutars, and
‘chemical suppliers
ter
Carried by the same etalersas methanol. You wor't need
‘much of ths, even if youstart maki nglarger batenes,
m1
NaOH is widely available as Red Dev Lye crain cleaner. You
‘can buy KOH from ocal soapmaking and tanning raft suppl-
fr.orfram,
(el
‘valable fom beer anciwinemaking and lab chemical sup-
pliars. Also contained in mary educational chomistry sol.
Should ne fresh
(Fl
Used for washing thetuel
(a
‘Toreutrave discarded ye
TOOLS
1
vtilale at some-tobacco and"hesdsnens.orleak ora
triplo-boam scale at pawnstions and flea markats.
a
[Graduated eyedropners and aral syringes ave avaiable in
crugsteres, sometimes withthe baby suapls, You'll use
these for diferent chemicals that you shoulen’t mxup,so it
helps to get one syringe and ane eyed-opper
0
od
wu
om
m1
9ot
Hours over Three Days Complexity: Low
FILTER AND DE-WATER
= YOUR OIL
I you're using new oil, you can skip
to Step #2. But if you're starting with
waste oll from a restaurant fryer, it wll
contain food particles, water, and free
fatty acids (FFAs) — contaminants
that you need to remove or adjust for.
The FFAs make the oll more acidic,
(aka. rancid), which counters the
effect of the lye. You can compensate
{or this by adding more lye into the
main reaction later, but youneed to
perform attitration test beforehand in
order to determine how mach extra
lye you'll need.
1a. Start with more than one liter of oll,
since the following steps vill sightly
reduce your cil’s volume. Warm the oil
to about 95°F in apot onan electric
hot plate (don't use a gas burner, here
or anywhere else in this project), then
fitter it through a few layers of cheese-
cloth ina funnel (or use coffee filter),
Ub, Heat theoil to M0°Fand maintain
the temperature for 15 minutes, The
water will fall to the bottom, so you'l risk
steam explosions ifthe temperature
gets toohigh. Pour thecilinto abottle or
other vessel and lot it settle for at least
2&.hours, This removes water, which
Would produce soap in your batch. If you
‘see water at thebottom (it willbe dirty,
not clear), don’tpour it back outwith
the ol
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BIODIESEL HOMEBREWING SAFETYBB wstvouron
Determining the acidity of the vegetable oil
2a, Dissolve one gram of lye in one
liter of distilled water (0.1% lye solu
tion), or use an equivalent ratio to
mount. This is your
fence test solution, which you
can store s
batches,
led and re-use for later
2b. Ine small ar, dissolve 1m| of
slightly warm cil in 10m ef isopropyl!
alcohol. Stir until clear, then add two
drops of phenolphthalein sokition,
2c. Using a greduated syringe or
dropper. add your reference test
solution drop-by-drop into the oil
solution, keeping track of how
much you're using, The more acidic
theoll, the more you'll need to add
Stir constantly, and continue adding
solution until the mixture stays pink
for ten seconds. Note the number of
milliliters of lye solution you used:
this is the number of ext
lye you'll need to adkd per liter of ol
‘This process is called
“titration,” and it’s a stare
dard method of determin
Ing a solution's act
ote 7eer
Bay, Process THe on
1 This is the main chemical reaction that produces the biodiesel
a. Determine how much lye you need. If you're using new oil, use 5 grams af NaOH or 7 grams of KOH per
liter. With used ol, use these amounts plus one gram for every milliliter of solution you used! in the titration
step 2c. For example, fit took 1.5m of lye solution to turn the mixture pink, use 6.5g of NaOH or 8.5g ot KOH.
‘3b. Measure your lye into a clean
Mason jar. Add 220ml of methanol
cover securely, and tip the jar to make
sure the lid doesn’t leak. Then swirl
or shake the jar gently until the lye
dissolves fully. This will takea few
minutes, and the jar will become
slightly warm in the process. This
mixture is the methoxide solution.
andit’s dangerous stuff: you'll need
towash the Mason jar lid after you're
done with your batch, or its seal will
dissolve. (Some regular homebrewers
prepare methoxide ahead of time and
storeit in #2 HDPE plastic.)
3c. Warm a iter of your oll up to130°F.
Letit cool down if the temperature
gets too high.
3d. Pour the ollinto a large bottle, add
the methoxide solution, cap tightly.
and shake like crazy for about five
minutes. The contents might change
color a couple of times,
Be. Set this mixture aside, and admire
In half an hour or s0,you should see
a darker, dirty, glycerin layer start to
sink toward the bottom, anda larger.
lighter, Biocleset layer rise to the top.
This is @ good time to clean up. If
you're sure your bottle wor't leak, you
‘may want to let it settle upside-down,
‘so you can drain the glycerin out by
cracking the bottlecap. Or you can lay
it sideways to make iteasier to pour
off the biodiesel
3f, Lot the liquids continue to settle
overnight:
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