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TRACES
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NEW YORK:
LAMPORT, BLAKEMAN
NO
P ARK PL AC
1853.
No.
-I
E.
|[00f,
OF
THE
&
LAW,
Entered according to Act of Congress, in
LAMPORT, BLAKE MAN

In
the Clerk's
the,
&
year 1853, by
LAW,
of the District Court of the United

Southern District of New York.
Office
^
<^
States,
for the
Gantnts
-----------..--..
---------------66
Page.
Dedication,
Preface,
The Start,
11
Milan,
24
Excursion to Como,
Genoa,
37
La Riviera,
79
-.---87
Marseilles,
-------------------------
The Kingdom of the Spains,

Madrid,
94
Ill
Excursion from .Madrid,
165
The Royal Palace,
201
Highway
to Seville,
Seville,
Cadiz,
--
--------------------
Andalucia,
242
265
270
333
Gibraltar,
352
Malaga,
366
Granada,
Barcelona,
End of the Traces,
'
379
437
450
ttUtt.
Reader
From
the magnificent nature of the scenery which
characterizes the whole chain of the Italian lakes,
eminently claims for
Genoa the
title
of
as well as from the noble specimens of
and pre-
"The Superb
City,"
architectural beauty,
that charm the eye in the Lombardian and Spanish dominion,
I had at
first
conceived that no better
name than "La
Superba," could have been selected for the contents of this

book.
But, laying aside mere verbal advantage, I have chosen,

rather,
by
my
the most simple

friends
among
the
many names suggested
and the subject matter, and
offer
that which
carries the strongest conviction of its fitness, since it
embraces
a description of those splendid nations, who, overrunning in

their turn,
both the northern part of Italy and Spain,
left
such vestiges in these countries, as will ever be easily recognized in the Traces of the
Roman and Moor.
PREFACE.
Simply adding, that in the drawing of these sketches, I
have
not hesitated
levy
to
contributions from
tinguished travelers in Southern Europe, I

silent friends in the
public, and, wishing
pray that Providence
may
ever continue
bid adieu to
them
to
certain
all
dis-
my
god-speed,
them the same
prosperity and health that has enabled His servant to bring

this
book to a
successful conclusion.
The Author.
Bloomingdale, August^
1853.
THE START.
Our
News came
from Venice was sudden.
flight
Mark
Piazza of Saint
to the
Lagoon had
that the railroad over the
been broken up, and that the Austrian troops were advancing
Padua was then
upon Venice,
retreat
was therefore cut
we had once
in
a state
of siege
our
The opinion
off in that direction.
entertained of the advantages of railroads in time
of war, then proved a fallacy
away from Venice
in the best
and we were forced to hurry
way we
Hence,
could.
this
abrupt break in our traces caused us again to travel.
We
hastily
had no
alternative but to escape
packed our trunks and locked our
away by the
porter,
sea,
valises,
and having
we
sent
them
quay near the
to the
Whilst I was busy about the hire of a boat
Ducal Palace.
for Choggia,
who took them
by
my
friends
went to Jlorian's
for a
hamper
of
provisions.
Our counsel met us on Saint Mark's soon

closed the contract,
bread,
wine,
by
we had
and helped us to buy a good supply of
and Bologna sausages.
ginian gentility
after
this little
He
proved
act of courtesy.
we had not met him before.

The truth was, we were in a fright
We
his
Vir-
were
all
sorry
in
our
flight.
Appre-
TRACES OF THE ROMAN AND MOOR.
12
and we had not the
tension and alarm had seized our minds,
We
heart to stop.
must have been great cowards and very
"wicked, when no man pursued us" on
the
over the
sail
Lagoon.
About
three o'clock
of the country,
we stepped
bound
for
managed by a fisherman
we took
eye,
and
full
The
teens.
len
for his
into one of the
some port
in the distance.
of the Adriatic,
daughter
and
of laughter, not far from twenty,

figure of our female
girl of
boats
was
It
whom
and a " lassie"
and portly
fair
common
a merry
still
in her
companion was greatly swol-
by the bundles of cotton goods which she had concealed
under the folds of her dress.
When
she afterwards amused us
by the removal of her surplus weight, our eyes were opened to

the extent of the smuggling trade carried on
by the boats
which ply regularly from Venice to the different ports in the

Adriatic.
Taking advantage of the roguishness of her

all
joined in a hearty laugh at the
Custom House
stopped us at the Dogano; and leading this
familiarity,
we enjoyed a
very delightful
and a clear
influence of a fine breeze
Chioggia an hour before sunset.
inhabitants,
incident to
sail,
under the
we
arrived at
smiling coast of Chioggia
deserves to be visited for the character of

trious
officer,
little
sky, so that
The
and the beauty of
its
its
lively
women,
and indusfor
thence that Titian obtained his most expressive
We
heads.
saw several
beautiful
lined the borders of the canal.
spend
in observing the
we
who
disposition,
girls
We
in
it
and
was
ideal
the shops which
had but
little
time to
noisy personages on the quay, or any
object of interest in the town, for the short interval of our
sojourn
was
fully
occupied in procuring a boat, and the pass-
ports and countersigns for the guards on the coast.
Having
MYSTERIOUS FLIGHT.
obtained a smaller boat,
by the
light
we
13
started with a fresh breeze, and
of a lovely moon, which gladdened the whole
surface of the Adriatic, were soon flying fast over

in the direction
of Brondolo.
its
waters
During the journey, we were
who enabled
attended by a sergeant of the village,

signs
and countersigns as we passed by the
posts,
and answer the challenges given by the
us to use
sentinels at their
officer
on duty.
Neither of our party knew much about this mysterious flight
The
from Brondolo to Cavazera.
moon shed her broad

coast by which we sailed,
full
masses of light over the region of the
and the fatigues of the day already incurred, inviting us to

slumber, I dropped myself
having folded
oblivion
and
my
down
bottom of our boat, and
at the
long shawl over
my
body, was soon lost in
asleep.
At Cavazera we
the banks of the
hired a vettura, and were conveyed along
Adige to the town of Rovigo, and thence by

no other change occurred to
several changes of vehicles, for

relieve our journey,
we hastened back
the afternoon of the same day
Ferrara.
to
we found
Late
in
ourselves under the
hospitable roof of the "Swiss Pension" at Bologna.
TO MILAN.
At Bologna I made an arrangement with a voiturin who was
This humble mode of traveling is
to conduct me to Milan.
indeed the most commodious in Italy.
It
not always bon souper, bon gite
reste;
et
le
is
true that one has
but the voiturin
undertakes for the whole of the expense, and one
about the necessaries of
life.
is
not troubled
Duclos, with the dignity of
of letters in his time, received wine,
oil,
chocolate,
men
and other
14
provisions from the
lodged
now
but those usages are
he
out of vogue, and though
the regimen of some of the voiturin's hostelries
is
rather spare,
preferable to extending those parasitical habits even
it is still
There
to the highways.
such as
whom
and noblemen with
ministers
fairs
and
serviceable.
towns or
feasts of
rivers or torrents, in
moreover, some inconveniences,
are,
passage of
villages, the
which the experience of the voiturin
is
very
This species of Mentor in smock-frock and cap
is
nearly always a very good fellow, and I can say that mine,
Mariano Marini, was

agreeable
joyfully received
held in consideration
His mode of
excellent.
and welcomed by
perpetual traveler
his hosts,
and
is
of train he brings with him,
a true citizen of the world.
traverses all the great capitals, but

his
also very
along the road on account of the
all
money he expends and the kind

this
life is
still
He
preserves his jargon,
manners, and his primitive character.
An
habitual specta-
tor of the wonders of art or the beauties of nature, his almost

stoical indifference contrasts
with the astonishment and enthu-
siasm of the travelers he conducts

object in traveling
slow as he
is,
but to reach his journey's end
positive turn of mind,
down
and
his little stages, indicated
he has no
he
is
of a
and written
beforehand, are as irrevocable as the decrees of destiny.
my
Should the merit of
somewhat
favorite voiturins
seem thereby
lessened, I should think myself deficient in impar-
tiality,
the paramount duty of the traveler as well as the his-
torian,
if
I did not say a
of their horses,
word
or
two respecting the sagacity
and of the habits and singular acquaintance
with the great roads that they ultimately acquire.

voiturin of
from that
baggage.
Rome,
I have been told,
city to Paris a
He
had engaged
A masterto conduct
numerous English family with
had no one
at liberty but a
all
their
new hand who had
15
THE V0ITURIX.
But the mare
never been that road.
was
Julie
there,
and the
master recommended the driver to follow her directions respecting the stages and the hours of starting, which she indicated by
certain motions, flutterings, or the shaking of her bells
man was
the
prudent enough to conform to this advice, not imitat-
ing the muleteers of the
always wrong
was very
Duke
in their disputes
favorable,
and
the other four, led the
Yendome, who, he
of
said,
were
The journey
with the mules.
Julie, harnessed to a splinter-bar before
human
In your treaty with the
load from
Rome
to Paris.
voiturin, a written contract
which
ought to be worded with as much precision as the lease of a

house, or an agreement with a publisher, there
variation which I must mention
an important
instead of breakfast
and of dinner (pranzo) which
zione)
is
in general exposes
(colla-
you to
having only a middling cup of coffee in the morning and a late
and unwholesome supper, you must

(dice pasti)
then you can demand soup
good dinner, that

precept
ment
is
will allow
two repasts
stipulate for
you to wait
in the
till
morning, and a
The
night.
poet's
very applicable in the case of a voiturin's agree-
D'un mot mis en sa place enseigna
At
early
dawn
in his vettura,
le
pouvoir.
the vetturino had packed us
(which by the way,
is
the best
snugly away
all
mode
of traveling
through Italy,) and we were started afresh on the route toward

Milan.
The road from Bologna
somewhere
site of
in the
to
Modena
Reno,
neighborhood of Sammogia, was the former
the famous island in which the Triumvirs
days; where they mutually bartered

friends
crosses the
and enemies; where,
away
met
for three
the lives of their
in the frenzy of their cruelty, they
even commanded every one, under pain of death, to rejoice at
TRACES OF THE ROMAN" AND MOOR.
16
proscriptions;
their
where, in short, Cicero's head was bar-
gained for during two days, and became the pledge of their
This island, diminutive in
union.
size,
but equal in celebrity to
the most noted in history, disappeared in an earthquake, as
had wished
nature, benevolent in her anger,
The
vestige of such atrocities.

nius,
has lost
river
to sweep
itself,
away
if
all
the ancient Labi-
name, and appears there only a kind of strag-
its
gling torrent in a field of gravel.
The
plains adjacent witnessed the dying struggles of
but Anthony's defeat at Modena made no real change
liberty;
The Senate did not take warning from
in the state of affairs.

it,
Roman
and the
of battle,
fate of the consuls, Hirtius
and Pansa, on the
was but the prelude to the republican and
field
stoical
deaths of Brutus and Cassius.
Our
Modena during
halt at
the oppressive heat of noon,
afforded us an opportunity to view the
remarkable points.
We
town and some of
its
found the inns along this entire jour-
ney far better than we had anticipated, and every attention
was paid
to our comfort at the instance of the clever vetturino
whom we had
procured.
Modena, with
The
ness.
porticos,
its
had an
gallery
and
air of
court,
comfort and pretti-
library, are
This extensive and magnificent
town.
who
its
palace,
edifice,
nearly
with
its
all
the
superb
out of proportion with the petty state of the sovereign
is
inhabits
ereignty,
it.
Such
however small
is
it
the
may
pomp
be.
The
ever required by sovgallery received
many
paintings which had been returned from France, for almost
all
the masterpieces by Guereino, Guido, and the Carraccio, have

traveled to Paris and back.
The
library of the palace, the
famous old one of the house of Este, was honored by having

for its
managers two of the best writers
in literary history,
COLOSSUS OF LEARNING.
Muratori and Tiraboschi.
It
Muratori was a colossus of learning,
and besides being an excellent scholar and
good parish
and the
salvation of his parishioners,
Literature,
is
was a
occupied with his poor, the guidance and
priest,
Tiraboschi was
librarian,
service of his church.
a prolix writer, and his History of Italian
more
book of
useful as a
reference, than interest-
ing to read.
The
old copy of the Bible, probably one of the
which
remarkable for the clearness of
is
ness of its ink,

its
and possesses an
library contains about 90,000 volumes,
its
type and the black-
showing the perfection of the art of printing at
Besides the numerous manuscripts of Tasso, and
birth.
several beautiful
and rare
illustrated articles
library offers a rich treat to amateurs, in

editions,
ever printed,
first
its
and altogether deserves to be placed
and
missals, this
scarce primitive
in the first
rank
of the Italian libraries.
La
Ghirlandina, the steeple which
we ascended
obtain an extensive view over this region, like

or bell towers of Italy,
all
in order to
the campanile
was detached from the cathedral
was of the Lombard Gothic
order,
which
and by no means so elegant
a structure.
The panorama, seen from
this belfry,
embraces an extent of
circumference for sixty miles, and reached from Bologna on the

south, to the outskirts of the
Inside
the
may be
steeple
town
seen,
of
Reggio on the north.
hanging by
its
chain,
the
famous deal bucket taken from the Bolognese, and which,

under the name of the Secchia Rapita, was prettily sung in
a charming
About
poem by
Tassoni.
the hour of sunset
built town.
Reggio
an aspect, that
if
is
we
entered the pretty and well-
a charming town, of so gay and pleasing
Ariosto was not born there,
it
may be
said,
18
he ought to have been.

il
It
is
altogether worthy of having been
natio nido (the natal nest) of that graceful poet.
In
spite of
the inscription and the credulity of a celebrated traveler, the

little
in
rebuilt house in the Cathedral Square,
This poet saw the light in the
which Ariosto was born.
Castle of Reggio of which his father

false tradition
which states
was the governor, and the

have taken place "in
his birth to
the middle chamber of the

arose
towards the Square,"
floor,
first
a century after his death
half
was not the house
it
vanity of one of his mother's relatives
originated in the
who wished
to give
celebrity to the house she inhabited.
The
church in Reggio
finest
which, with
its
dome
mities, presents a
in the centre,
who reduced
destroyed
We
its
Madonna
it
della
Ghiara,
and four others at the extre-
model of Saint Peter's
to Michael Angelo's plan, before
derno,
the
is
it
in miniature, according
was
spoiled
by Carlo Ma-
from the Greek to the Latin
cross,
and
admirable unity.
only passed the night at Reggio; but the performance of
the civic band, on the Cathedral Square lent an air of cheerfulness and joy to the evening that
The town seemed
spent at the " Poste Hotel."
to us singularly clean,
the inhabitants courteous and
which
we
full
gay and agreeable, and
of animation
satisfactorily explains the carelessness
a characteristic
and non-chalance
of a certain General of the Reggians portrayed
by Tassoni, who
was composing a madrigal, when the enemy came upon them,

and being compelled to arm,
Era
Di non aver
finito il
stizzato
madrigal.
Was
very sorry,
For not having finished his madrigal.
19
ALEXANDER.
PARMA.
We
arrived at
noon in
The
visiting
some of
its
spent the hour of
most interesting monuments.
Steccata, the finest church in Parma, built since the
revival, will
on the
Parma about mid-day and
bear comparison with the most celebrated in Italy;
ceiling
is
the famous Moses breaking the tables of the law,
painted in clare-obscure, and
Adam and
Eve, by Parmegiano.
This great and capricious artist had not finished the Adam,
though he had taken the money
for
a passion for alchemy, he
off
left
prosecute his vain researches.
toward
artists
it,
when, being seized with
working at
this ceiling to
According to the rude usages
then prevailing, he was thrown into prison, but
he contrived to escape, and died shortly
after,
a solitary wan-
derer from one hiding-place to another, at the age of thirty

seven, like Raphael,
whose steps he had
faithfully followed.
The cupola representing the Virgin and

rounded by angels and
On
saints, is
Christ sur-
Jesiis
one of Sojaro's
finest
works.
a grand stone tomb of Alexander Farnese are his helmet
and sword with the

heart because
it
single word, Alexander:
touches the
it
holds a hero, while other tombs which have
neither posterity nor ancestors, leave one nearly indifferent.
Near the church
of Saint Louis,
is
the celebrated chamber
The paintings
of Correggio, in the old convent of Saint Paul.

of this chamber, the
first
that Correggio did at Parma, were
ordered by his generous protectress,
the abbess
Giovanna,
daughter of a Parmesan noble, before the monastery was subjected to
closure,
and when the splendid and independent
abbess,
named
thrown
into the midst of the affairs, pleasures,
the world.
for
life,
was, like most of
them
in her time,
and
vanities of
20
Over the
fire-place
is
a fresco representing Diana in the
The
clouds in a golden car drawn by two white hinds.

is
ceiling
and covered with graceful genii wantoning amid ovals
azure,
pierced through a vast treillage
beneath, faces painted in
the Graces,
Endymion
camaieu present, face-wise and perfectly naked

Fortune,
the
Minerva,
Fates,
Adonis,
imitated from the antique, and worthy of

intensely the artist
of his abode at
had
figures
it,
which prove how
studied, notwithstanding the uncertainty
The three
Rome.
crescents, Giovanna's arms,
the crozier, sign of her dignity, placed on the keystone of the

vault
and surrounded with a golden crown, surmount
this
voluptuous and pagan decoration, mixed with profane inscriptions in
Greek and Latin, and which seem to belong rather to
some house of Herculaneum or Pompeii than the
an
ceiling of
abbess' closet.
Parma may be
called the capital of Correggio's talent
and
the Gallery of the ducal palace contains the greatest number of

his works.
St.
Jerome, his master-piece, returned from Paris
after the period of the illustrious pillages in 1198.
has really usurped the appellation of this picture, as

the Virgin, infant Jesus,
feet
Magdalen
caressing
figures,
it
saint
contains
and kissing
with the tenderest expression of respect.
one of the two other
The
with two angels and
St.
his
Jerome
his lion.
is
The
history of this painting, executed in 1524, shows that the social
position of artists
was then very
widow who ordered
only
it,
inferior;
Briseis Cossa, the
allowed Correggio 47
sequins
($110), and his board for the six months that he worked at
she
it
had, however, the munificence to add to these fees, two loads
of wood, some measures of wheat, and a fat

This whole collection
is
pig.
remarkable for the choiceness of
works and other judicious
selection,
and arrangement.
its
The
21
SUPERB MARBLE.
Cathedral and Baptistry of
monuments
Italian Gothic
them,
may
Parma
are in the
but, with the
marble that decorates
be seen the imprint of Italian
also
by contemplating the wrecks of
rank of
first
antiquity,
taste,
preoccupied
and which has not
that daring ignorance, the source of the singular beauties and

fantastic grandeur of the Gothic edifices of the North.
The
by Correggio, the
cupola, painted
of cupolas, cannot
first
Though
be conveniently subjected to a close examination.
much
injured,
it
is
impossible
remnants of painting, not
than
at a distance,
brilliant
blissful,
less
not to admire those superb

finished
when
viewed
and that Assumption, so
lively,
and triumphant.
A rich cenotaph had been
erected to Petrarch in the chapel
of Saint Agatha, in the cathedral in which he
and canon, an
ecclesiastical title
lar contrast
with
directed his
body
at
closely
his
was archdeacon
and dignity forming a singu-
fame as a lover and a poet.
Petrarch
to be buried in the cathedral in case he died
Parma, although, as he himself avows, he had resided there
but very
and was at best but a very
little,
indifferent arch-
deacon.
The superb
Baptistry, entirely of marble,
twelfth century.
basso-relievos,
It
is
ornamented outside with- statues and
characteristic; the ceiling
is
frescoes of the middle ages;
The
John and the
still
less
figures of
The profane
barbarous ages, conjoined with the sacred
coloring
is
Diana and Apollo are there placed
the prophets, evangelists, and apostles.
emblems of paganism
interior
New
no
covered with Gothic and Greek
in juxta-position with the history of St.
The
Old and
presenting incidents from the
Testaments, and curious hieroglyphics.
tianity.
of the end of the
is
so
in those
much do
the
seem mixed with those of Chris-
and gilding of
these
frescoes,
after
22
more than
five
centuries, are still wonderfully brilliant,

and
prove that they were laid on with extraordinary
skill.
Selva Plana, fifteen miles from Parma,
the beloved retreat
of Petrarch, whither he retired after
being crowned at
presents no vestige of his residence there.

called Casa alle pendici, from its
situation
Rome,
The house formerly
half way up an accli-
has almost disappeared in our days;

it was standing sixty
years ago; at present nothing remains
but the woods and the
prospect extending to the Alps, and
commanding the whole of
Cisalpine Gaul.
Such an abode must have inspired a
poet
and Petrarch has duly celebrated it:
"This immense forest
vity,
on
a verdant
earth
hill,
is
called Plana,
though a steep ascent;
'the
there
engenders beeches with lofty branches

to ward
off the burning rays of the
snn, and young
delicate flowers of
variegated colors; a limpid stream
and the cool breeze from
neighboring mountains, temper the
heats of Cancer and Leo
The summits
inhabit
its
sacred shade; a brook rushes
down the hill and

wandering course. In its bosom
a flowery bower made by no
artist's hand, but created
by
refreshes the
is
of the cloud-capt mountains
tower above the

Thousands of birds and animals of
various kinds
forest
young
turf in
its
nature, the friend of poets, to

give
them
inspiration: there, the
warbling of birds, combined with the

murmurs of the stream
invites
to grateful slumbers: the

grass affords a charming
couch; the boughs protect you with
their shade, and the mountains shelter
you from the southern winds. The

rude swineherd
has never defiled such a refuge with
his feet; the peasant points
thereat with his mattock or his finger,
and the guardian of the
woods tremblingly reveres it from the
mountain top.
The
breath there inhales a marvelous perfume;

its aspect presents
a picture of the Elysian fields, and
this secluded spot is the
23
BRIDGE OF LODI.
peaceful retreat of the wandering muses.
and escape the world and
this
Parma has
site of his
house at
monument, amid the cottages of the present

from afar the poet's glory and
village, will recall
thither
monument
directed a
memory, on the
to be erected to Petrarch's
Plana;
away
society."
decree of the Duchess of
Selva
I steal
felicity.
Notwithstanding our short stay at Parma, our sojourn there
was agreeably entertained by the many
On
of the town.
illustrious
the road to Fiorensole,
monuments
we passed
the pictu-
resque old Castle Guelfo, in ruins, which were beautifully clad
with rich masses of

forlorn condition, as
if
which time had made

the
town had
its
a mantle over
like
its
struggling to conceal the deep ravages
in
pomp and pageant
little
which hung
ivy,
an
edifice
of the
which once resounded with
Feudal
lords.
Even
glorious Cathedral, the
this quaint
and boast
pride
of the parish, whose inhabitants were shoemakers, and they
seemed no
they
We
less
occupied for liberal provisions of their soul, as
now seemed
to be busy with the soles of other people.
were struck here, as
we had
in
many
other towns through which
passed, with the pretty faces and picturesque costumes
of these villages, and most particularly were
we
pleased with
the neat arrangement of the head-dresses which were peculiar

to this parish.
Before sunrise our vetturino called us for a fresh
start,
and
soon after we were on our way, by the road to Milan which

leaves the
town
point whence
of Piacentia,
we caught a
somewhat
to the
left.
Beyond the
sight of this distant town,
we were
obliged to cross the Po.
At noon we
reached the town of Lodi, and had time to
examine the position of the celebrated bridge, which formed

so remarkable a chapter in the battles of Napoleon.
24
The road beyond Lodi

of the rich plains of
Lombardy,
the excellent system of
dance of
soil,
and
and
their labored cultivation,
which sustains the abun-
irrigation
The
this region.
fecundity of the
to Milan, shows the peculiar features
culture of the rice plant proves the
its
by the miasmatic
effects
airs are
depicted in the dwarfish appearance and sallow aspect of the

inhabitants of these
flats.
MIL AN.
It
impossible not to be struck even in passing, with the
is
appearance of wealth, commerce, and industry of

as you enter
it
this great city,
by the gate of the Porta Romano.
lent an increased
charm
Moonlight
to the serial beauty of the minarets
and
thousand statues which adorn the form of the noble Duomo,
and heightened the
effects of its brilliant architecture,
by an
aspect which daylight even did not entirely dissipate, so majestic,
and
fairy-like,
and beautiful are the outlines and properties
of this Gothic, religious edifice.
The French aspect

from
its
partial
of Milan, so happily noticed
by Montaigne,
resemblance to Paris, and confirmed by Tasso, in the
and unjust
parallel
which he wrote at Paris,
spicuous in the palaces of the prince
those
is
most con-
brilliant imitations
La
of the imperial residences of Prance, but less magnificent.

Villa,
the
with
city,
Monza,
its
is
of
English garden and
its
position in the interior of
the Elysee Bourbon of this bastard Paris

the
Iron
Croivn
memory
three
leagues
and
from
Milan, reminds one of Saint Cloud.
Despite of the lavish use of the

Italians, the palaces
title
of palazzo,
among
the
do not commonly sustain so superb an ap-
WHITE AND GORGEOUS.
pellation,
general,
but unless devoted to some public
more modestly and properly
The Duomo
is
completed, and
pinnacles,
a prodigy of labor
its
Even should
the
they
are, in
the edifice be
added to the hundred
Duomo would
with more boldness
toy,
beauty of design.
it,
service,
called houses.
four thousand statues
and perched upon
an enormous
25
still
be but
and singularity than
All this marble crowd seems alike in form
and expression, and

painful to the eye.
its
whiteness like that of the building
Having been constructed
the Cathedral of Cologne, like

primitive grandeur of
its
all
imitations
is
after the plan of
it falls
short of the
model, and the minute, detailed orna-
ments of the buttresses, seem rather meretricious additions to

plain pilastres, than those graceful
germs of architectural
age and delicate scroll-work, which form a part,

pose,
com-
the pleasing features of the purer Gothic of the North.
Yet
and
or, rather,
foli-
the lines of this gorgeous, pyramidical mass are elevating
attractive,
whereon the sight mounts upward by so pleasing
a succession of graduated
effects,
that the mind
is
also trans-
ported aloft by a sympathetic movement of wonder and admiration.
Standing on each side of the principal entrance, and drawn
from the quarries of Lake Maggiore, are two gigantic colomns,

each of a single piece of red granite
largest ever employed in any building.
design,
is
richly adorned
by seventeen
they are perhaps the
The
choir, in beautiful
basso-relievos of a rare
delicacy of touch, and the stalls are covered with superb sculptures from the designs of Pellegrino, Brambilia, Figini,
Meda, representing
brose,
divers incidents of the
life
of Saint
and
Am-
and other bishops of Milan.
It would be difficult to avoid emotion on seeing in the sub-
terranean chapel the body of Saint Charles Borromeo,
who was
26
in a
manner the hero of
and unbending genius,
ardent,
also that of his family,
pre-eminent there above that of em-
is
robes enriched with diamonds
a golden cushion
is
clothed in his ponti-
the sarcophagus
How
great,
head reposes on
his mitred
is
of transparent crystal,
man may be
easily
truly, is the contrast of the
word
through which the features even of the great

contemplated.
of this vast,
kind of governing Saint, as
this
The holy archbishop
perors and kings.

fical
The memory
his country.
humilitas, the family device of the
Borromeo
which
family,
is
written on the tomb, with so great a display of riches, in this

shrine the ceiling of which
ornamented
is
senting serious scenes in the
encased with
From
there
of the Saint, whose
the top of the enormous pyramid of the
no
steeple, its place
is
for
from the
of this sort of marble mountain, the view

cultivated plains of
Duomo
being supplied by a kind
of tower, ugly and ill-proportioned
The
tomb
silver.
in reality
is
life
in silver relief, repre-
is
top,
we
repeat
it,
truly admirable.
Lombardy appear an ocean
of ver-
dure beneath the azure sky; the eye discovers at once the Alps
and the Appenines, and
and superb panorama of
this
immense horizon
is
like
a new
Italy.
ANCIENT CHURCHES.
Christian antiquity presents no older
basilic of Saint
name
among
it
bears;
Ambrose, erected
it
still
exists,
in 38T,
monument than the

by the
saint
whose
a real chaos of architecture,
those works of various and remote ages, which compose
a shocking medley of
art, plan,
and
interior.
Italian architects
have ever exhibited a carelessness in not retaining the primitive character of these edifices in repairing them.
Before the
BRAZEN SERPENT.
church
is
27
one of those spacious courts, which the middle age
and are
borrowed, imitated from antiquity,
art
before
many
of the Italian houses of worship.
still
It
found
was there
that, during the time of paganism, the profane remained,
and
where, in after times, the rigorous public penance of the early
There
church took place.
something religious in the aspect
is
of these old porticos, and they nobly separate the sanctuary
from the tumult of

In
this
cities.
church there
posite to the
modern
by the Romans,
in
an immense old pulpit of marble, op-
is
one,
it is
pretty
much
like the gallery
used
which the orators had room to walk about.
These old pulpits are in much better taste than the kind of deal
boxes suspended in our churches, above which
twists
and agitates
space.
Were we
it
himself,
and seems
rises
a man,
who
at ease in so narrow a
ill
not habituated to this manner of preaching,
would appear a very
singlar exhibition.
In the nave of Saint Ambrose, the famous brazen serpent

placed on a column
that
some have even gone so
is
far as to
take for the one that Moses raised in the desert, or at least
made
of the
same metal, and on which the learned have
cussed at a prodigious length.

that
it
it,
are persuaded
end of the world; and the sexton, one
will hiss at the
day when dusting
The populace
dis-
having somewhat deranged
it,
the alarm
became general when the ominous serpent was seen turned

towards the door, and
it
was necessary
to put
ately, in order to allay the terror of those
they heard
At morning
to be
right immedi-
already thought
it.
This style of basilic
fail
who
it
is
the most impressive after the Gothic.
service, at the
moved by the
through the vaulted
hour of solemn mass, one cannot
low, sweet strains of music which steal
aisles,
and mingle with the
orisons of the
28
penitents within; even should one not have faith in the religious
may
forms* of the Romanist, he
exercise charity in these judg-
ments which are always better suppressed than uttered.
SPLENDOR OF THE ALTARS.

The sumptuousness
used to
appears truly wonderful.
it,
must be
and even the
altar,
to speak in the midst of
difficult
and eloquent words must be

dazzled.
The
sometimes set with agates and other precious stones.
pulpit, are
It
of the Italian churches, until one becomes
much
requisite to touch
fear that the precept of
these riches,
all
an audience thus
Horace may be often
applied to the sermons delivered in these pulpits,

Segnius irritant animos demissa per aurem
Quam
quse sunt oculis subjecta fidelibus,
Nevertheless, I have never shared the prejudices of the econo-
sumptuousness in
against
mists
altars.
This sumptuousness
tends to neither corruption nor dissipation like that of the

world, but
it is
There are some orna-
conservative and useful.
ments also which can be appropriated to no other purpose,

such as precious stones
it
would be
objects of national pride in circulation
place
them on an
religion,
then,
is it
not better to
where they add to the majesty of
and excite neither envy nor hatred, than to make them
ornaments
despot
altar,
to put these
difficult
for the forehead of
a courtesan or the sword of a
The churches
of Italy are generally shut for
some hours
the middle of the day, namely, from twelve to four or
in
five.
There are none open during the whole day but the cathedrals,
such as the
Duomo
of Milan, Saint
Mark
of Yenice, Saint
29
THE BETTER PART.
Peter of Rome, and the basalics.
This regulation of closing
the churches has something of Protestantism about
seems
it
it;
opposed to the religious manners of the Italians as well as to

Catholic usages
it is,
frequently have but
moreover, inconvenient to travelers,
little
time to
visit these churches,
The entrance
temples, partly museums.
of strangers
is
who
partly
annoy-
ing to the worshippers, and not less disagreeable and painful
One
to themselves.
uncomfortable and confused at find-
feels
ing oneself standing alone, guide-book in hand, in the midst of
a crowd of persons kneeling and praying, occupied
m counting
the columns of vert antique, Carrara marble, and lapis-lazuli,
surrounded by half-naked beggars.

of a sermon, the embarrassment
If you enter in the middle

is
not
orator, the echoing burst of his voice
auditory, the fierce
cool indifference
air peculiar to persons
who
the
amid the
and animated expression of
contrast strangely with the
awkward
less
fire
of the
silence of his
his countenance,
and somewhat
are gazing round as
if
seeking for something.
How many times has

appeared to
me
the
the piety and fervor of the worshippers
letter
part!
And how
vain the restless
curiosity of the traveler beside the sublime simplicity of the
believer
It
would be advisable to leave the morning to the
services of worship
moment when
for noon, the time of closing,
the light
is
is
the precise
the most favorable for the paintings.
Despite Italian indolence, a more serious consideration ought

to put an end to this injudicious practice
independently of the
frequent need of prayer that the soul experiences,

faults,
how many
crimes even, have been prevented by fortuitously entering
a church
It
is
said that every
body
sleeps at that hour, but
the unhappy and evil-doers sleep not, and the passions do not
know a
siesta.
TRACES OF THE ROMAN* AND MOOR.
30
At
a period
when
much
there has been so
talk of ultra-
montanism, our clergy would not do amiss to copy the Italians
and the
in the benches
is
cleanliness of their churches
the country, perhaps, where the Deity
her negligence on that point
is
is
France
worst templed, and
a discredit to her high
civili-
zation.
But there
is
one excess of zealous attentions that I will
take care not to prescribe, since

tions for the traveler.
it is
one of the greatest vexa-
I allude to the mania which possesses
On
the Italians for hanging their churches on holy days.
eve of such days, the upholsterer, armed with his

ladders, takes possession of the
tombs of great men,
all
monument
the
hammer and
curious inscriptions,
disappear under his hangings
magnifi-
cent columns of granite and Carrara marble are smothered
under his
tinselry;
and there may be seen hanging on the
front,
or to the vaulted roof of some old basilic, or elegant temple of
Bramante, Palladio, or Michael Angelo, long

stuffs,
yellow, white, pink, etc., as at the shop fronts of our
linendrapers.
bad
face.
strips of various
This ludicrous embellishment, applied with such
taste, is the
same to architecture as paint
is
to the
human
I have even seen Saint Peter's decked out in this showy
manner
it is
true that the vastness of
upholsterer's task difficult enough,

bits of crimson-cloth that
its
vaults
and that the
made
little
the
square
he had put up against the walls
The
were hardly perceptible.
noisy labors of this
sometimes not being completed when the fete
artisan
begins,
are
annoyingly continued during the services, while, on other occasion,
he
is
in such haste that
he begins to take down his finery
before they are concluded, lest the brilliancy of such fine colors
should be
lost.
PAINTERS POETS.
31
THE C(ENACULUM.
Placed
in the refectory of the old
delle Grazie,
still
the celebrated Last Supper, by Leonardo Yinci,
is
beautiful despite the ravages which have marred,
by the hand
injured
It
was not
of time, than despoiled
difficult to
of ruin that envelope
life
contains
recognise
its
and
Through the mists
beauty.
discover the
spirit, variety,
of this admirable composition.
less
by ruthless men.
and the bungling retouching
it,
may still
undergone, one
and
monastery of Santa Maria
it
has
expression
The apartment which
served once as a stable and granary, and yet retains
it
evidences of the barbarous abandonment in which the Domini-
cans had formerly
left
the Ccenaculum, and of the revolutionary
outrages inflicted in 17 9t, on this masterpiece of Leonardo.

Parini,
said,
an ingenious and elegant Italian contemporary poet
that the
man
produced a poem.
capable of such a conception could have

If the
sight of these fine paintings excited
and fed the pious musings which alleviated

be pardoned
if
we
fail
to arouse a kindred
scription of our view of
The
them
in their
his sorrows,
we may
sympathy by a de-
damaged
condition.
face of the Saviour partook of miraculous feeling
the grouping of the Apostles was excellent
Those of Judas, Peter
and John show the
highest contrasts, brought together by the
and
significant.
effects
medium
and
of an
of
the
harmo-
The ardent temperament of Peter, the tried,

generous and faulty disciple was in happy intervention
nious character.
earnest,
between the love of John and the treachery of the perfidious

Iscariot.
There
surprise, of
is
also,
clearly indicated, that expression of
mournful suspense and inquiry, at the moment when
these memorable words were uttered, " One of you shall betray
32
me;" and although the action of

full,
"all interest
is
all
the figures
intense
is
and
absorbed by the touching agony of the
Saviour," in the overflow of his sorrowful and sympathizing

love which embodies the true idea of Piety,
and seems to
Even
that his thoughts, like Himself, were not of this earth.
though we had been prepared
for
a sight of this painting from
the period of our earliest associations,

that even in
beautiful,
decay there are
its
still
it
to,
was
still
remarkable
the lingering traces of the
and those hallowed tones of
connected with, or attached
say,
feeling
whatever
is
which are ever
perishing and truly,
eminently, felt for ruins.
LIBRARY AND OBSERVATORY.

Besides the numerous private libraries in Milan, there are
the Ambrosian and the public library of Brera.
The
latter
has only a thousand manuscripts, among which are the famous

choir-books of the Chartreuse of Pavia, but
it
contains one
hundred and seventy thousand volumes, and
is
the best fur-
nished of
all
the Italian libraries with
modern books of
science,
natural history, and voyages.
Our
visit to
the observatory, and a call on Professor Carlini,
afforded us an hour
full of
instruction
and remark.
The
instru-
ments, with the exception of a transit, were very antiquated
but the view from the upper tower of the star-gazer embraced
the whole town, and
its
charming environs.
The foundation
of
the observatory was formerly the tower of an ancient church,
and dated from the year 1200.
may be, that the splendor of the Florentine, Bolognese

and Roman museums of paintings, causes the gallery of Brera
It
to be too
much
neglected, which
was but recently begun.
If
it
NOTE OX LAURA.
has no great Titians, and
is
33
also destitute of other master-
some admirable paintings of other masters
pieces, it possesses
of a school distinguished for simplicity, expression, force, and
the marvelous gift of perspective.
Raphael's Marriage of the Yirgin, a work of his youth,
would not have been bettered by
when
arrived at
and grace.
painted
Lo
for talent,
perfection, often loses something of its sim-
its
plicity
his after years
He
Sposalizio
of his finest works,
was twenty-one years old when he
Guereino's
Abraham dismissing Agar, one
beams with expressions
of her grief,
countenance reveals intense mental suffering within.
whose
Besides
an excellent Annunciation by Francesco Francia, attributed to
man by
Perugino, and an admirable head of an old

there
is
an interesting though somewhat ordinary painting by
Giovanni Sanzio, the father and

painter, but a
were
Titian,
man
insufficient for
in consigning
of
good
first
sense,
master of Raphael, a poor
who
felt
that his lessons
such a pupil, and accordingly lost no time
him to Perugino.
THE AMBBOSIAN LIBRARY.

The Ambrosian
library containing over 60,000 volumes
and
10000 manuscripts, possesses among other remarkable works,

the famous Yirgil of Petrarch, in which
is
his
impassioned note
on Laura, and an inscription by the poet, regarding

son,
who had robbed
his father,
his natural
and given him much
trouble.
His Yirgil seems the depository of Petrarch's sorrows.
Al-
though the marginal notes, and those at the bottom of the
page are lengthy and numerous, embracing quotations from the

ancient authors, and critical collations, they seem
of this erudite poet,
and were never thought

2*
little
worthy
sufficiently im-
34
portant by Mai, to publish.

youth,
fire,
when
his father
Perhaps they were of Petrarch's
snatched from him, and threw into the
the Virgil he was secretly reading, instead of studying the
Decretalcs.
It
is
impossible to suppress a species of literary emotion, on
wooden
seeing, in a large
chest, the celebrated palimpsesti of
the pleadings of Cicero, for Scaurus, Tullius, and Flaccus,
on
the writing of which the poems of Leduluis, a priest of the

sixth century,
had been
In contemplating these
transcribed.
some parts by the
old black sheets, calcined and perforated in
action of oxygenised muriatic acid, I
was pleased
to see
modern
and
philoso-
science rushing to the rescue of ancient eloquence
phy, and chemistry stripping off and annihilating the ignoble

text which concealed a sublime original.
It
was impossible not
to be struck at the sight of this second species of ruins, and this
determined searching of the monuments of thought and genius,

relics of the greatest orator
of
Rome, found again
than two centuries, under the Gothic
lines of
after
more
versifier of the
The
middle ages and the protocol of ecclesiastical decrees.

palimpsesti of the
Ambrosian Library proceeded
in part
from
the monastery of Saint Columban de Bobbio, situated in the

the Appenines, where a mass of precious manu-
recesses of
scripts
were stored.
In those barbarous times the
cloister
and
the mountains were the asylum of letters, these learned rem-
nants published, annoted, translated, by clever and experienced

-writers
and
editors of our times, are gloriously
throughout the
orations,
is
heard him
But
sesti
civilized
world
and Cicero,
promulgated
in his
eloquent
again listened to by a greater number than ever

in the
there
is
forum or the comitia.
a manuscript
less
imposing than these palimp-
namely, ten letters from Lucretia Borgia to Cardinal
35
LOCK OF HAIR.
Bembo,
at the end of which
breathing an exalted
latter,
the lady
much
is
spirit of
Platonism
and she accompanied
Thus does the bottom
of her hair.
this strange
plainer,
a piece of Spanish verse by the
is
with a lock
it
of this mysterious portfolio,
pedantic medley of poetry, philosophy, and sensua-
lism, offer
a striking characteristic
of Italian
manners
monument
a striking singularity
find it there,
and
it
of the corruptness
This lock of a
in the sixteenth century.
lady's hair, in a great library, in the midst

is
the answer of
of old manuscripts,
one would scarce have expected to
seems strange to confide the custody of such
a charge to the doctors of the Ambrosian library.

It
is
particularly difficult to
Would
brosian.
it
make
be believed that
Am-
researches at the
its
illustrious
founder,
Cardinal Frederico Borromeo, had forbidden the making of a
catalogue?
It
is
said that
The
pensation from Rome.

is
a mere cypher
truly
it
cannot be done without a
existing apology for a catalogue
the authors are arranged
Christian names, which, in Italy, have
with us
Peters,
in the list there is
and to
of the books
still
ill
it
is
no
for Francis.
title
To
on the backs
the aspect of these nameless volumes covering

is
somewhat
intimidating,
and
not for the good fame of the founder, one might think
of all this occult science.
The
however,
librarians,
pretty well what they have, and what they have not
consult their memory, and the catalogue
Of
their
more importance than
must look,
more, there
the walls of this immense hall,
were
by
a crowd of Johns, Jameses, and
find Petrarch, one
increase the perplexity
dis-
is
know
they only
purely traditional.
the physico-mathematical manuscripts of Leonardo Yinci,
there only remains
now
Êngineering, of great
at the
size,
Ambrosian a
single
volume on
called the Codice Atlantico, contain-
ing machines, caricatures and notes collected by
Pompeo
Leoni.
36
The
letters are written
ner,
and can only be read by a mirror.
from right to
left,
in the
Like
Eastern man-
his
worthy
rival,
Michael Angelo, Leonardo Yinci was also scholar, sculptor,

architect, engineer, chemist, mechanician,
men
with such
strengthen them.
how
on the contrary, to extend and
seem,
The
sight of this singular manuscript, with
reversed characters, proves by
of the East
letters
the multiplicity of accomplishments, instead of
injuring each other,
its
and man of
was
reflected
its
on Italy
manner,
in
how
the influence
Leonardo's age, and to
great an extent Italy was indebted to
it
for
warmth and
brilliancy.
There
is
a small but rich
museum
in the
Ambrosian
library,
which may be seen the cartoon of the School of Athens,
in
the
first
simple and sublime sketch of that immortal composition.
M. de Chateaubriand standing before it, said, " I like the cartoon as well." The latter having been carefully restored, seems
to outlast the
portrait of
painting,
which
Leonardo Yinci, on red crayon, done by
a true patriarchal countenance
is
daily falling to decay.
is
himself,
the features are calm and
mild, notwithstanding the bushiness of the eyebrows,
and the
exuberance of beard and hair.

Several charming paintings by Bernardino-Luini, such as
the young
the
St John
playing with a lamb, and the Virgin at
Rocks, which were brought from Paris, are also at the
Ambrosian, and the grand fresco of the Crowning with Thorns,

closes the
of the
number of remarkable
Ambrosian
library
objects
which adorn the walls
IRON CROWN.
37
EXCURSION TO COSMO.
THE LAKE OF CO MO.
Our
course as far as
Monza by
railroad, presented
of interest, except the Iron Crown, which
Lombard
basilic of that
is
no object
kept in the rich old
Having met with some
town.
opposi-
tion in our attempt to see this celebrated curiosity, through a
ruse on the part of the sacristan to extort money,
we
failed to
obtain a sight of the real crown, but were satisfied by looking

at a copy.
We
must, therefore, describe
iron crown, the real
from a guide book:
it
wonder of Monza,
is
"The
inclosed in the upper
part of a large cross, placed in the chapel of the cathedral.

It
is
The
rarely seen but at a certain distance.
incloses
is,
as every
body knows, made
Como became
this point the
extremely picturesque, and
a nearer approach to the town
it
of one of the nails of the
From
true cross used in the Passion."
iron circle
itself,
still
more
where the
road to
striking
on
hilly aspect
of the country lent relief to our journey.
The
situation of
Como on
and from the windows of our

its
pretty waters.
in the town,
The
the lake,
hotel,
was erected
arrangements.
one of great beauty,
we caught
the
first
sight of
Casino, one of the most elegant edifices

for the convenience of the nobles dur-
ing the Austrian domination, and

its
is
is
convenient and elegant in
Having spent some time
in
walking on the
terraces of the port's walls, admiring the beauty of the lake,
and the
brilliant display
of the
constellations
we were accosted by
from whom we learned much about the
brightness of peculiar splendor in Italy,
the officers on guard,
above us
38
wars of
Italy,
and
their hatred of the Austrian rule.
however, until the
moon had
on the lake before
effects
It
was
not,
its
rich
we enjoyed
arisen, that
and heavy and black shadows
us,
from the mountains were cast upon
its
bosom, whilst the numer-
ous houses and villas of the port were bathed in a flood of light
resembling hoar
>f
frost,
and producing the most magical
result
a glowing and brilliant chiaro-oscuro.
On
we again observed the effects of

Lake, and found it as beautiful as we could have
the following morning
sunrise
on the
expected from the glimpses of the preceding night.

It
would be
difficult to
ing localities of the

cascades, the
Lake
of
down
With
Como.
mildness of the
groves that reach

it
describe the variety and the enchant-
air,
and the
to the banks,
it
its
woods, rocks,
olive
and citron
presents an image as
were of Switzerland and Italy combined
Greece even seems
to be there, and she has given some of her harmonious
names
to sundry places in the environs; for instance, Lenno, Nesso,
Lecco,
Colonnia,
Lemnos,
of
jSTaxos,
Greek names
Corenno,
Greek
naturally remind
Leucadia, Colona, and Corinth.

is
one of
This number
a proof of the emigration of the Pelasgians
into the north of Italy,
of a
which
derivation.
and the name of Cosmo,
The Pelasgians were
too,
bespeaks
originally
from
Arcadia, and on the beauteous shores they found the freshness
and charming
In
solitudes of their native vales.
spite of the singular,
and perhaps rather cold epithet of
the great master, (Virgil,) Lari Maxime, the
Lake
of
Como
does not present, like some others, a great plain of monotonous

waters; on the contrary, the scene appears to close, re-open,
and renew
effect of
itself
every instant;
its
little
straits
produce the
a succession of lakes, and the headlands which they
form, present admirable views of different kinds.
I went over
39
SILVERY SNOWS.
it
several times with infinite pleasure, as well as
its
environs,
and I could have wished to have sojourned there longer.
would not be very expensive to
live in this delightful
country;
at Babbiano, one of the best situations on the Lake, there
shown a very pretty house
At
eight o'clock
plies its waters,
of water.
The
let to
It
was
an English family for $50.
we went on board
the
and ran along the shores
little
steamer that
of this beautiful sheet
characteristic of the scenery
a combination of
is
harmonious beauties, uniting every variety of scene with the

Pretty
greatest contrasts.
villas
The
with hamlets and villages.
and regal
residence, mingle
richest culture of the vegetable
world follows, and furnishes the rugged sides of the mountains

olive groves
pices
and vineyards smile over abrupt and
pleasant
cliffs
fearful preci-
are ornamented with towers and castles,
convents and chalets run out into the lake, breaking up the
monotony of
its surface,
and new views.
whilst every turn exposed
Every headland appears to
and prospect; they form, as
Beyond
all
it
new features
limit the extent
were, a succession of limited lakes.
are the silvery snows of the Rhetian Alps and the
the bottom of the lake
is
superb, where
it
is
shut in by these
mountains, which witnessed the exploits of Drusus,

Videre Rboetis sub Alpibus
Drusus gerentem Vindelici
mountains which subsequently gave equal renown to the great

captains of
modern
times,
from the Duke of Rohan, the deter-
mined conqueror of the Yalteline, to Macdonald, the vanquisher

of icy fogs and the Grisons.
On
an agreeable
village
which
declivity,
rises in the
near the point of Torno, a pretty
form of an amphitheatre,
may be
seen
the ruins of an old monastery of the umiliati; for the borders
40
of the lake are covered with chapels,
which have a very picturesque
Near by was
At
effect
churches and convents,
when viewed from the
water.
the villa of the celebrated cantatrice Pasta.
Bellaggio which
may be
considered the terminating point
of the picturesque beauties of the lake, I stopped in order to
ascend to the Serbelloni
villa.
This position, commanding a
full
Lake Lecco with Lake Como, from
view of the union of the

the noble terraces in front
of the mansion, also embraces various rich landscapes on both
A short row from the landing soon brought me
shores.
villa Melzi,
remarkable for
garden and
its
gardens are laid out with elegant

lished with statues,
led
among them
is
The
monument which
falls
situated at
latte,
a beautiful group of Dante
near Martigny.
reminded
also executed Melzi's
which rushes
and gives
into the lake,
its feet,
The
stands in the chapel.
torrent called Ilfiwine
the rocks,
fine prospect.
and the walks embel-
taste,
by Beatrice, a work by Canova, who
sepulchral
to the
me
its
in
name
foam through
to the village
of the cascade of Pissevache
comparison of these popular metaphors,
intended to produce the same impression, shows
In
this
the
dif-
we may say so) the

way words may sometimes serve
ference between the genius of Italy, and
genius of Switzerland.
all
(if
to distinguish the character and spirit of nations.
Near
to the branch of Lecco, which has not the varied
animated aspect of the Cosmo branch, but
is
and
sad and solitary,
stands Yarena, favored with so genial a climate, that, besides

its pines,
oaks, laurels, cypresses,
and even the plants of Syria
On
view.
returning to the
On
left,
and numerous
olives, the aloe,
will flourish there.
Domaso and Gravedona meet
the
the mountain between these two small towns the
women wear
large
gowns
of
brown woolens, with a hood
like
41
PLOT DISCLOSED.
that of the Capuchins; these ladies are also called frate (lay
brothers).
They adopt
this strange
costume in consequence of
vow made by their mothers, which they religiously observe.

But coquetry loses nothing by it this humble dress does not
conceal either their elegant forms or pretty faces
and among
a
the rich, gold, coral, and lace occasionally shine on the robes of
the good fathers.
Lower down
are discovered the ruins of the stronghold of
Musso, an ancient
the rock.
fortification
hollowed out perpendicularly in
Musso was defended with
singular audacity
famous Giovanni Iacopo Medici, whose
Margaret (the
latter the wife of
by the
Clarissa
sisters,
and
Count Borromeo, and mother
of Saint Charles), shared his perilous adventures, and stimu-
lated the
women
to
augment the
Francesco
fortifications.
murder of Ectore Yisanti, wanted to
Sforza, after ordering the
get rid of the instruments of that crime, Medici, and another

captain
named
The
Pozzino.
was
latter
Musso
received orders to repair the castle of
making the passage, he suspected
killed
;
Medici had
however, while
Sforza's intentions,
and opened
the letter thus entrusted to his charge, by which he was con-
He
vinced of the fate that awaited him.

this letter
by another
provisionally the
braved
all
immediately replaced
injoining the governor to transfer to
command
of the fort
and from
this
him
rock he
the attacks of Sforza by land and water, became the
terror of his race, pillaged all the environs, took possession of
the Yalteline, and did not consent to
make peace
obtained, besides the
payment of 30,000
of Lecco for himself
and
Meleguano, another
fortress
change
men
for the
and the possession of
between Milan and Lodi,
one he occupied.
it
It
is
he had
sequins, the sovereignty
his descendants,
stained with crime, as
until
in ex-
painful to behold such
restricts
the admiration their
42
How
prodigious courage inspires.

been,
if,
by
instead of being impelled
sonal interest, they
great would their glory have

their
own danger and
per-
had been actuated by patriotism and honor
Cadenabbia and Tremezzine, situated on the same
side,
in
many
Mediterranean.
The
the middle of the lake, for position, climate, and their

beautiful villas are the Baioe of this
Sommariva
is
little
bad
vDla, although of the
taste of the last century,
one of those splendid seats which would not have been
dis-
dained by the luxurious and voluptuous Romans, so severely
reprehended by Horace.
may be
There
seen an exact copy
of Jocond, by Leonardo Yinci, and the beautiful
of Thorwaldsen's
basso-relievos
Triumph of Alexander, ordered by Napoleon
for the Quirinal palace
At
villa,
lake,
the
town
Como,
of Yico, on returning to
the most extensive of the
and an abode
many on
is
the Odaleschi
the borders of the
of almost princely splendor.
AH
the rich
wainscotings of this palace are less grateful to the taste than

the shade of the superb old elm-tree planted at this gate on the
bank of the
so delightful a view of
One Paolo
site of
whence one may enjoy
lake, with its stone bench,
Como, the
Grioyio pretended to
one of Pliny the younger's
lake,
and the mountains.
have built
villas.
his palace
on the
The Odaleschi
is
on
the same spot as the delightful suburbanum of Pliny's modest

friend, Caninius Rufus,
with
its
gallery where an eternal spring
prevailed, its impenetrable shade of plane-trees, its canal with
verdant banks enamelled with flowers, and that lake which

served as a basin to receive
is
predominant over
all
its
waters
the shores
on one of the steamboats of the
for the
memory
of Pliny
he has bestowed his name
lake,
seventeen centuries have elapsed, he

country.
and though more than

is
still
the glory of the
43
IRON CAGES.
I was delighted with
on the banks of the
The marble
beautiful
Como
lake,
its
and
monument
towers, render
its
cathedral, erected
position in a species of valley
by the
picturesque.
is
a vast and
people,
The
of the era of the revival.
adjoining, of alternate blocks of black

sents a
it
town-hall,
and white marble, pre-
good specimen of the Loggia, or arcades, that are so
common
in
Como
Italy.
has also a superb literary Casino.
This establishment of an Italian town of fifteen hundred souls,

is
superior to all those of the
On
same kind
an eminence near the road,
the tower of Baradello, another

broils
and revolutions
is
in Paris.
to be seen
monument
still
standing
of the
intestine
of Italy in the middle ages.
It
is
there
that Napoleon della Torre was shut up in an iron cage until he

perished, after nineteen
months of torment.
The cages seem
to
have been very abundant in Italy; the Duke de Nemours and

Cardinal
La Balue underwent
had an eight months'
it,
and Comines confesses that he
taste of imprisonment.
BORROMEAN
ISLES.
Before returning to Milan, I visited the Borromean
The road
thither,
by the way of Yarese,
the cultivated plains of
Isles.
displays the richness of
Lombardy; the formation
of the land
being more varied in the vicinity of the mountains which border

the lakes.
The
situation of
Tarese was very pretty, and the
town wore an unusually animated appearance,
in anticipation of
the fete of the Corpus Domini, on the morrow.
from the Madonna
del
Monte near
this town,
is
The prospect
varied,
immense
and magnificent, extending from the chain of the Alps, where
Mont Hose
raises its
the vicinity are
towering summits, as far as Milan.
many
In
pretty villas laid out in Italian style,
44
which contributed somewhat to vary the carriage-drive from

Yarese to Laveno.
At
Laveno, where I passed the night, I engaged a boat of
the country, at the usual charge by the Government
take
me
The aspect
the islands on the lake.
to
tariff,
to
Lake
of
Maggiore at early dawn was sublime, and as the sun lighted the
tops
mountains, the golden rays gilding their peaks,
of the
exalted the mind to thoughts of deep emotion.
The
terraces, arcades, balustrades,
successive stages, steps,
and rows of vases and
Borromean
statues,
and
all
the symmetry of the
which would be extravagant anywhere
Isles,
else,
are not displeasing there, but form a contrast beside the awful
irregularity of the
Alps which enclose and overlook them.
The
gardens, rather built than planted, of Isola Bella, resemble a

large pyramid of verdure, rising out of the water with half
action of Julia in these
tained too
its
Rousseau had some thought of placing the
base cut away.
much
art
but he rightly judged they con-
isles,
and ornament
abode requires the loves of
princes,
Such an
for his characters.
and
lovers like
La
Yalliere,
or Mademoiselle de Clermont.
Isola
Madre
of the lake,
is
the least
little
artificial
frequented, and to this
that natural simplicity which
The palace
taste; it
who
of these islands on the
of Isola Bella
was erected
in
its
is
it is
neighbor has
bosom
indebted for
lost.
magnificent, but not in
good
1671, by Count Italiano Borromeo,
transformed this rock into a garden.
There are some
paintings of Chevalier Tempesta, scattered through the apart-
ments.
Being condemned to death
wife, in order to
for the
murder of
his first
marry a person he loved, Tempesta was saved
by Count Borromeo, who concealed him
in his island.
These
paintings are seventy-five in number, for the most part land-
45
BATTAGGLIA.
scapes and pastoral scenes;
one might say that the painter
endeavored to forget his crime in contemplating the quietude
and innocence of the
The
fields.
portraits of
Tempesta and
his
second wife, are also there, placed opposite each other; there
an expression of cruelty
one
feel
pictures,
beauty of the
in the
that she was his accomplice.
one
feels
a kind of horror in this
at the reflection that
it is
work
the
latter,
is
which makes
Despite the merit of the
museum by a
of crime
man,
single
and the
passions.
In the garden of Isola Bella, are the two largest laurels in

These two laurels seem an emblem of glory.
Their
unknown they were planted by nobody they
existed
Europe.
origin
is
before the present gardens were made, and of themselves
taken root in the rocks.
It
had
said that in one of the Italian
is
campaigns, Bonaparte, when at Isola Bella, engraved the word

Battaglia, on the largest of these laurels.
An
Austrian afterwards made a sabre-cut at the
to erase the word; the bark has been taken
lishman, and
now
the glorious strokes,
tree, as if
away by an Eng-
made by
the conqueror's
hand, are scarcely legible.
Beside the aristocratic and almost princely sumptuousness of

Isola Bella, are the hard-earned comforts of Isola Pescatore,
There every inhabitant has a small
very pleasing to the eye.

house, with a boat
and
net,
population of this island
his
small aquatic estate.
extraordinary,
is
and confirms the
remark of Montesquieu on the propagation of nations

fish; its
circumference
is
less
over two hundred persons.
The
than half a mile, yet
Its aspect, however,
is
it
living
on
contains
not unpleas-
ing; the village steeple, the tiny houses of the fishermen, their
nets
hung
just
been gazing on the monumental pomp of the palace and
in festoons to dry, are grateful to the eye
gardens of the Borromean
isles.
which has
46
LAKE MAGGIORE.
The steamboat which
from Sesto Calende, and goes to
starts
Magadino, traverses the whole length of Lake Maggiore.
In
the passage the boat passes over the territory of three different
The
and Switzerland.
States, Lornbardy, Piedmont,
Gazette of
Lausanne, and the Courier Suisse, said to be independent papers,

are read on board the boat.
This majestic lake offers a double aspect
Lombardy
it is
bounded by
fertile plains
great elevation, ornamented with
rocks covered with convents,
middle of the lake,
may be
is
chalets,
the latter portion of which, the
and verdant
new houses
Alps are on the other shore, which
on the
side of
hills
of no
the towering
wild and bristles with
and old
Borromean
fortifications,
isles,
in
situated in the
called the limit, rises majestically
the rock of Caldiero, in the eleventh century the retreat of the
deacon Arialdus, a martyr to
his
the concubines of the clergy.
Olivia, the
sermons against simony and
mother of Widus, the
infamous archbishop of Milan, was so carried away by her
maternal
affection,
that,
Arialdus in his hermitage

hands, and last of
all
assisted
;
by two
they cut
inflicted
priests,
she assailed
off his ears, nose, lips
and
a secret mutilation, to which
these infuriated wretches added the most indecent sarcasm.
What
a strange and horrible history of martyrdom instigated
by a woman
Opposite the coast of Canero, which
velously sheltered from storms,

ruins.
resort
so mar-
are two picturesque forts in
In the beginning of the fifteenth century they were the
who
hundred men
Milan when
of five brothers Mazzardini, a species of pirates
defended themselves for two years against four

of the
is
army
of Philip
Mariea Yisconti, Duke of
THUNDER AND CRACKERS.
47
obliged to surrender through want of provisions, they were
all
thrown into the water with stones tied to their necks.
What
a brilliant pageant must have been presented at the
fete given
the
on the lake to the King of Sardinia, when he visited
Borromean
isles,
in September,
arches, with the Italian tinsel
erected where his majesty

Isola Bella,
when
Painted triumphal
1828.
and customary Latin had been
was
The appearance
to pass.
of
illuminated in the evening, presented a most
extraordinary coup
The
d'ceil.
transparencies and theatrical
decorations were well suited to an island so symmetrical and

artificial
and the roses of Sanquirice seemed more natural
there than those of spring.

superior to the
ing.
The night scene was
infinitely
pompous harangues and receptions of the morn-
A multitude of illuminated boats,
in the shape of dragons,
or of temples with Corinthian columns, ornamented with foliage,
crowded round the blazing
and the enthusiasm of the
island,
Milanese for sights of this kind was at

nately
its
bad weather came on and deranged the
night was
one of unceasing tempest
it
Unfortu-
height.
fete,
and the
might have been said
that the vast sheets of lightning and the old Alpine thunders
were indignant at the feux de
joie,
and the new luminaries that
disturbed their solitude, and seemed to parody their majesty
the lightning replied to the rockets,

crackers
full dress,
and
this contrast,
added
still
and
the*
which must have annoyed those
more to the curious
thunder to the
in
effect of the sight.
I did content myself with merely viewing from the deck the
colossus of Saint Charles
Arona.
If on shore, I
Borromeo, which stands on the
hill
of
might have been inclined to penetrate
into the interior of this bulky statue of Saint Charles,
and
seat-
ing myself in the long nose of the Saint, as other travelers
have done, give way to meditations.
What
an advantage
it is
48
to have a position.
book of
This colossus of Saint Charles holding the
his synodical
other giving his blessing,

half in height, the head
copper,
a kind
of
and with the
constitutions in one hand,
statue twenty-one metres and a
and hands of bronze, the
rest
wrought
Egyptian monument, erected at the close of

visited
by
everybody, while the churches and paintings of Arona, so
in-
the seventeenth century visible for miles around
is
teresting with respect to art, are neglected.
Sesto Calende on the Ticino, eight leagues from Milan,
spirited,
Lombardy forms a
contrast with the lively
and almost French ardor of
events of
its
the Lakes.
inhabitants and the
its
stormy history.
Milan with
drives within
the
The immense melancholy and mono-
entrance of Lombardy.
tonous plain of
is
several public gardens, fine promenades,
its
its
and
wall occupied our time after our return from
The
out-of-door
life
of Milan
is
merry, the appear-
ance of the principal streets striking, and they assume an aspect

of gaiety and extreme animation in the evening.
The Cafes
were crowded with occupants listening to the execrably poor
Some
music of hurdy-gurdies and mandolins.

velocipedes and pretty
good
self-conducting
choruses, afforded a variety to the
usual amusements.
At
the
the house was closed for the summer, and
we
I did not see ]â Scala at the season of
time of our
visit,
could only learn, that
it
its
had accommodations
splendor.
for
more than four
thousand spectators, and the merit of being perfectly resonant,

notwithstanding
Milan
if
its
and people
immensity.
really
La
there be no performance, for
Florence,
receptions.
Scala
know not how
Rome, and Naples,
is all
the society of
to pass the evening
they have not there, as at

a corps diplomatique to give
Notwithstanding the great fortunes and easy
cir-
BREAD AND THE CIRCUS.
49
cumstances of the inhabitants, no one thinks himself obliged to
The
be at home.
practice of receiving visits at the theatre,
injurious to the spirit of society,
every lady
is
is
so
not to be eradicated in Italy;
a queen in her box, and like Caesar, she will pre-
fer the first place in that little
empire to the second in a draw-
ing-room.
ARENA AND ARCO DELLA PACE.

The
Circus, or Arena, intended for races
and naumachy,
capable of holding nearly forty thousand spectators, and
an antique monument
clever Italian architect
Perhaps there
this
work
is
is
truly
of the French, and of the
Ludovico Canonica,
is
wanting in Paris.
no more worthy ornament of a great
city
than
these arenas destined to receive the people, where they
may
sit
to be
is
amused by the spectacle

and address bear
strength,
of games, in
But
off the prize.
be requisite to make some changes
I think
agility,
it
would
in the order established
by Augustus, who had thrown back the women

seats,
which
to the farthest
with the exception of the Vestals, the empress, and ladies
of the imperial family

politeness
and of the chief
would never consent to
Roman
emperors.
tianity,
and the ease of our
that the haughty

quered.
Certainly
Rome
this
we do
patricians.
French
rude etiquette of the
not claim, under Chris-
civilization, the partem et circenses
lavished on the people she
Such coarse pleasures would not
suit
had con-
us; there are
now other generous illusions to

of man has a right to something
The Gate of the Simplon, now
better than such combats.
of the immense Piazza d'armi,
is
satisfy,
and the ennobled race
the Arco della Pace, at the end
now
nearly complete.
The
statue of Peace, as on the arch of the Carousel, succeeds to
50
that of Napoleon; the car
drawn by
is
greater number than was customary
bronze horses, a
six
among
the ancients; four
other horses, mounted by figures of Fame, are placed at the

angles.
The
Peace and the horses are truly superb,
figure of
and honor the talent of the sculptor
who seem
of the founders, the brothers Manfredini,
The
recovered the method of the ancients.
executed under the direction of the clever

surpass, for taste
ted.
The
and
brilliant
effect,
and the
S. Sangiorgio,
skill
to have
rich ornaments
artist S.
Moglia,
those which were previously selec-
basso-relievos,
boldly decided by a traveler to
three of which have been
be superior to those of the
Parthenon, are by Pacetti and SS. Monti of Ravenna, Monti
One
of Milan, Acquisti, Pizzi, and Marchesi.

relievos represents the
Emperor Francis entering
triumph after Napoleon's
have conceived.
to
at Paris
l'Etoile, it is infinitely
Hot weather and
and
if it
thence,
On
of
yield in height to the
we
revisit
left
we took
Milan about the
Como, and to pass
Lugano and Arona, on
the following afternoon,
val of
and would amount
the offence of decayed garbage, rendering
month, determined to
by the way
and arrived
of Peace, all dazzling
more magnificent.
the street quite pestilential to breathe,

last of the
his capital in
the largest which the moderns
is
It has cost three millions,
more than double
Arc de
The arch
fall.
with marble and sculpture,
of the basso-
to Turin.
the rail cars for Monza,
at this time in time to witness the close of the festi-
San Giovanni.
we were enabled
Having obtained a wagon
to reach the
at the inn,
town of Como by two
o'clock
in the morning.
We
again sailed up and
down
the Lake, and were thus car-
ried to the extreme end of the lake, at Coleco, where the waters
are closed by the Rhetian Alps, and the scenery appears grand
RAINBOW ABOVE.
The shores
and sublime.
beautiful
51
of the lake towards Yico, afford a
promenade to the
and from the end of
citizens,
this
walk you obtain a pretty view of the town, and new features of
The scenery
the waters are to be admired.
by the perpetual play and changes of

shower at sunset lent peculiar
light
is
for ever varied
and shade.
effect to the
A heavy
scene before us,
while the rays of the setting sun glanced through the misty
and a graceful and
air,
bending over the heavens,
delicate rainbow,
rose so lowly from the outskirts of the town, that
it
seemed to
have sprung out of the walls of the noble old tower on the
banks, and, crowning the summit of a
hill,
sunk in
its
repose
upon the waters of sweet Como.
The steamer
tlie
carried us to
Menaggio on the succeeding day;
morning was beautifully
lovelier
and Lake Como looked
clear,
than ever, for the atmosphere wore an aspect of exceed-
ing purity.
Our view from the
hill
of
Menaggio was one of
extreme beauty, commanding diverse prospects at every turn of

the road winding round
it.
Bellaggio
is
the prominent point
on the opposite bank that separates Lake Lecco from Como.
Our
ride to Porlezzo, one of great beauty, passed beside the
cultivated vineyards of this region, and along side the pretty

little
At
Lakes of Piano and Bere.
the latter place, having
learned from experience not to pay over one-fifth of the price
demanded
of foreigners,
at a moderate sum,
the waters of
teristic
we had no
in active
enjoyment of the charac-
of this lake, which
were wilder and more
naked than those of Como,
it
appearing rather like a happy
Lake Maggiore,
in its pleasant interval be-
last; it unites the
one with the rugged Alpine
introduction to
tween the two
a boat
and shortly afterwards we were rowing on
Lake Lugano,
features
difficulty in securing
scenery and sublimity of the other.
Lugano, a thriving manu-
52
facturing
and
town with a Swiss population,
situation at the
end of the lake,
and
lovers of nature, the arts,
all
Council give
it
After dinner
is
its
frescoes of Luini,
worthy of a
The
liberty.
from
visit
sitting of its
an unusually animated appearance.
we ascended by
a circuitous and untrodden path
through the woods, the ragged sides of Mount San Salvatore,
and from
district,
its
top enjoyed a glorious panorama of the entire
a view commanding
the numerous branches of
all
Lugano, besides other smaller sheets of water, several
and a
far-off vision of
Mount Rosa and
Lake
villages,
other more distant
chains of the Alps.
TO TURIN.
The
Diligence from
The
Lake Maggiore.
of
Lugano
carried us to Luini on the shores
overlooking this town,
hill
a magnificent view over the lake and
At
the foot of the declivity
which
plies daily
on the
its
encircling mountains.
we were taken
and
lake,
commands
to the steamboat
in a short time
were landed
we were booked for the Diligence going to

Turin.
Inside the coupe we had a most agreeable gentleman,
a resident native, who accompanied us on our journey, and
from him we derived much valuable information about the
at Arona, where
country and
At
its
products.
JSovara, an old dirty Spanish town,
and beautiful churches.

zio,
by the architect
The superb
Pelegrini,
is
masters of the Milanese school.

inner chapel of the
tomb
we found some
basilic of Saint
rich in paintings
rich
Gauden-
by the best
The two superb doors
of the
of Saint Gaadenzio are a solid mix-
ture of cast-steel and bronze
represent the patrons of the
the four great bronze statues
town and diocese of Xovara.
The
53
cock's crow.
Triumph
of Saint Gaudenzio in fresco on the cupola,
imagination.
of the most
The tomb
by Count Benedetto
built with the funds proceeding
On
every pound of meat.

inscription
is
may be
considered one
The
splendid and elegant in Italy.
graceful structure
was
of the Saint
enchased
of
is full
steeple,
Alfieri, finished in
1186,
from a tax of a farthing on
each side of the entrance a
Roman
one of them perpetuates the memory
of a certain Tilianeoreus, who, although questor, owed nothing

Republic, an unusual circumstance,
to the
Roman
questors, since
it
appears,
among
was thought worthy of being
it
the
trans-
mitted to posterity in an epitaph.
We
saw a Last Supper
varied,
by Caesar da
in
one of the chapels of the Duomo,
Sesto, the best pupil of
the friend of Raphael,
who
delicately said to
strange, that with a friendship like ours
each other so
little
Leonardo
him
we
di Yinci,
" Is
it
reciprocally
not
show
regard in painting, and contend so much
one against the other ?"
The
many a
old walls of Novaro, which have stood
siege,
have been converted into delightful promenades.
On
tions,
the road to Turin,
we passed through many
rich planta-
and a country abounding with the evidence of a remark-
able
fertility.
lent,
with
its
Mont Rosa appeared
constantly in view, and
imagery of beautiful tones of light by sunset, a
What
charm to the journey of the traveling party.

in the diligence
occurred
between dusk and darkness, or what places we
passed during the hours between midnight and dawn,
known
to the writer
but
we
well remember, that shortly after
the early cock's crow, and in broad daylight

before breakfast
is little
we had passed through
an early hour
the Gates of Turin.
54
TURIN.
To a person
returning from Italy, Turin has a cold and
extraordinary aspect
the streets have a kind of regularity with-
out magnificence which differs considerably from other Italian

towns, so that one seems to embrace the entire features of
its
extent and peculiarities by a look through any one of them.
The medley
peculiarity,
by
of Italian manners and martial usages
and the military splendor of the
cleanliness,
its
is
another
troops, contrasts,
with the dirty tawdryness previously seen.
In passing along the market-place, one
observes that the
peasants universally adopt low, straw-flats, bound round the

rim,
and trimmed with red
and blue ribbon streamers,
velvet,
giving to them a coquettish and picturesque appearance.
Turin
is
daily increasing,
and
its
population
now
exceeds a
hundred and twenty thousand, including eight thousand work-
The
men.
grown
in proportion with his
different peoples
which,
work
of soil
King
capital of the
and countries
of Sardinia
States,
seems to have
an odd assemblage of
kind of political chequer-
in its diminutive proportion, presents disparities
and manners not
which unites the
less
marked than
fertile plains of
in the largest empires
Piedmont, the frozen summits
of the Alps, the arid mountains
and
forests of Sardinia,
and
which has blended into one common country the indigent and
faithful
Savoyard, the rich and deceitful Genoese, the intrepid
native of Piedmont, and the half-African Sardinian.
Most
of the clocks of Turin strike the
succession,
repeat, every quarter, the
The
same hour twice
and some even, as the clock of Saint
number
in
Philip's church,
of the last hour completed.
incessant announcement of passing time
makes one impa*
TOCSIN OF LIFE.
and even sad
tient
and clipped
one's
into
life
of
Count
de
ma
X***
my
twelve,
it's
Montaigne
says,
every minute
it
hand toward the clock
his
know
it,
know
city.
was removed
the
centre,
and of
Pinacotheca in the Cas-
in 1832, to the
armor that belonged to Henry

;
became
Its former interesting collection of
arranged, and of a superb
trophy there
struck
as the residence of the
object in
formed by King Charles Albert, near

rich, well
Xuremburg
and there remains a museum of ancient arms,
(Castello)]
tle
but too well."
life.
the most prominent
every view of the

paintings
it
" Yes,
this clock, instead of indicating the time,
The gloomy Royal Palace, occupied

is
of these
strike twelve three times,
that in his day, the clock of
rather the tocsin of
king,
noise
recollection the comic emotion
chambre, when, after hearing
know
The
de Maistre, in the Expedition nocturne autour
he exclaimed, stretching out

I
seems thus to be hastened along

fragments.
disjointed
clocks has often brought to
55
II.,
his apartments,
effect.
There
is
which
is
a suit of
which becomes a kind of
but instead of being the
fruit of
conquest in the
battle of Saint Quentin, as might be supposed,
it
was
fairly
purchased at Paris.
Madama
Palace, so called after the Duchess of Nemours,
wife of Charles
Emmanuel
II.,
who
inhabited
it, is
now a
fine
Above this castle stands the observatory, which

it was built
is under the management of the illustrious Plana
by Victor Emmanuel when he recovered his States, much less,
Pinacotheca.
it is said,
taste,
to encourage astronomical observations, than from his
and perhaps gratitude,
to which that prince
and
had devoted
for the charlatans
restoration.
for the speculations of astrology,

his attention in his exile,
who had drawn
the horoscope of his
56
The
statue
Duke
fine
piazza of Saint Charles has the bronze equestrian
of
Emmanuel
of Savoy,
and
Philebert,
surnamed the Iron-headed,
also the four allegorical figures representing
Yale of Aosta, the
the county of the
principality of Piedmont,
the county of Xice, and the duchy of Savoy, which compose

the monument.
This statue was cast at Paris, and the artists
have, generally, praised
picturesque
its
conception, movement, boldness, and
effect.
Valentino, embellished
by
Christina,
Ama-
queen of Victor
deus L, was the pleasant and joyful abode of the worthy
daughter of Henry IV. and her
little
which Hamilton
court,
has so well described in the Memoires de Grammont.

palace scarcely appears Italian
one would rather
This
call
it
great French chateau, with a long avenue, seated on the banks

of the Seine or Oise
for the Po,
narrow and very tranquil

rivers,
The
which runs beside
in this part,
long dethroned for ever,

oldest building here,
is
is
now
a prison
Lombard
of Turin dating from

its
this ancient king of
but a mere rivulet of Turin.
to be of the sixth century, and of the
worthily maintained
rather
the palace ddle Torri, or the
towers of the city to the north,
The University
and
it, is
ancient celebrity
it
epoch.
the year
;
its
ously followed, and at the entrance of Italy
it
supposed
is
1405 has
lectures are zeal-
may be regarded
as the most brilliant focus of enlightenment in that learned
talented country.
Several of
its
and
professors have ranked in the
highest walks of European learning and science.
EGYPTIAN MUSEUM
This rich collection, the
first
in
Europe, was temporarily
located in apartments which had not been put in order, and
57
soul's treasure remedy.
consequently had more the appearance of a warehouse

antiquities
than of a museum.
statute of
Osymandias,
In the court was the stone
fifteen feet in height,
eighteen thousand seven hundred and
Thebes was wrapped up
colossus at
shrub in the Flower-market.

the
tomb
of
It
in
fifty
and weighing
pounds
the
old
straw mats like a young
was on the sacred
Osymandias that the
medies for the soul,
of
full
library of
inscription, Treasure of re-
was formerly written
I regretted to see the
magnificent statue of the most ancient amateur of books amidst
The kings
such confusion.
Some
the gods.
larly the
II.,
of
Egypt seem
to rank almost with
other of their statues are admirable
wilfully mutilated
one of Amenophis
with Memnon, a king whose fame
is less
II.,
Apollo of the museum and of Egyptian art

seven feet high) of
Ramses YI.
basalt spotted with white
he
is
is
mild and spirited
and the
feet,
(the great Sesostris) in black
is
seated on a throne in military
The
which are commonly neglected in Egyptian
The beauty
which excludes movement and variety of
in solidity
and strength,
some vast
edifices, of
The
phi-
the hands are perfect, the forms
statues, are in just proportion.
propyleums.
But the
the statue (about
costume, and holds a crook-like sceptre in his hand.
siognomy
the same
derived from his con-
quest of Ethiopia than from his harmonious colossus.
tuary,
particu-
contemporary statue of the great prince Thoutmosis
and the
pure,
for it even
which
it
of Egyptian staattitude, consists
becomes architecture
in
forms the front, the peristyle, or
figures of queens
and goddesses
in
many
in-
stances have a vulture on their heads, because they were re-
garded as the mothers and nurses of the people

bird of prey seems a strange
emblem
this
savage
to express such a senti-
ment, and I regret the pintado or Afra avis for which this
vulture
was
for
a long time wrongfully taken.
58
The
stone,
collection of steles or pictures sculptured
which are
remarkably bright
still
A basso-relievo
complete in existence.
and painted on
in coloring,
the most
is
of rose-colored granite
god Amonra between the goddess Neith and the
represents the
god Phtha, the one God between the creating and preserving
All these pictures and basso-relievos present scenes of
powers.
worshipping the divinity, of honors rendered to the dead, of judg-
ment on the
soul, etc.
it is
pleasing to find, at so remote an age,
human
the sentiments of piety and affection that honor
The
articles
and most
are two
this
Among
interesting.
little
that was
used in the various business of
weak
it
are numerous
the implements of a lady's toilet
ivory dogs, one of which
wound on
life
still
retains the thread
more than two thousand years ago

employed
flaxen wreck
in female
labors
much
like,
and
des-
I did
however, the Egyptian shoes of pasted cloth
with figures on the sole
this
manner of treading underfoot
one's enemies or tyrants seems little
a nation.
was
tined to outlive such a succession of powerful empires.
not
nature.
These figures
worthy of so wise and grave
in general represent the
Pastor kings,
who, despite their gentle name, were the oppressors of Egypt
more than two hundred
The domination
years.
of the Pastors
a people from the North, was to the Egyptian empire what the
barbarian invasion was to the Roman.
Notwithstanding the
harsh judgment pronounced on the Pastor kings by the new
Egyptian
historical
Sabbacon, of
whom Diodorus
by Montesquieu
vision
science,
one would wish to except King

relates the admirable story quoted
the god of Thebes appeared to him in a
and ordered him to
kill all
the priests in
Egypt
he
in-
ferred that the gods were no longer pleased that he should

reign, as they
commanded him
ordinary
and he retired into Ethiopia.
will,
to do things so contrary to their
ITCH OF SCRIBBLING.
59
In the Egyptian museum we also find agricultural implements
and arms; several models of ploughs

a helmet, and a
a yoke for oxen; arrows,
The occupations
fine scimitar of bronze.
of
husbandry and of war, when found one without the other, announce the weakness or barbarism of a people
other hand,
but on the
combined, they distinguish the best kind of
When we
lization.
it
if
civi-
observe the immense quantities of mummies,
seems that the instinct of preservation was never carried so
far, for it
balmed
young
extends even to beasts, and
also see carefully em-
cynocephali, hawks, fishes, crocodiles, and
ibises, jackals,
bulls,
we
marked on the forehead with the
sign of the ox Apis
cats have
little
characteristic
sarcophagi to themselves,
But
ornamented with paintings which represent them playing.
the manuscripts, on papyrus or rolls of cloth, taken from the
catacombs of Thebes, must be the most instructive and important part of this
museum
the cacoethes scribendi seems never to
have raged more widely than among

in that
respect,
may
challenge
this primitive people,
who,
the most advanced nations.
There we find the immense funeral
ritual,
a superbly written
longa pompous and minute

most complete that we possess of the
papyrus more than sixty feet

ceremonial of death, the
people
who paid
worship
acts of
the grim tyrant the most fervent and assiduous
Pharaoh Amenophis Memnon, ordinances
Sesostris, contracts
of
made
of
in the time of the Ptolemeys, the plan
Ramses Meiamoun's catacomb, a kind
of subterranean palace,
more extensive than the royal residences of other
princes,
and
fragments of a chronological table of above a hundred kings.
As
I contemplated all these dusty
and mutilated wrecks of the
oldest civilized nation of our globe, piled
Alps, I said to myself
own
remains,
all
up at the
Perhaps the day
will
foot of the
come when our
our monuments of marble and bronze,
all
the
60
magnificent evidences of our power and glory will be shown in
museum
the
some now savage people,
of
in
a desert yet un-
known, near a lake of which we have never heard,

of impenetrable
The
discovered.
Seyffarths,
and gloomy
and
Sacys,
forests or of lofty
bosom
mountains hardly
Youngs, Champollions,
Akerblads,
Pfaffs of another world will in their turn write
and obstinately defend
dissertations,
in the
their
different systems.
Louis XIV., with his brilliant age and immense works, will be
as the great
Ramses
or Sesostris of those distant days
and
our recent conquests, so rapid and transient, will be like fable

after history.
Many
of the views about Turin,
ing figure of
are strikingly beautiful and interest-
That from the bridge over the Po
ing.
and
pleasing.
del
Mont Rosa,
commanding the ever tower-
This bridge
is
peculiarly picturesque
terminated by the noble temple
is
Dio, built in imitation of the Pantheon, at this point grace-
ful hills
vision,
covered with pretty and showy

wmilst afar
off,
villas rise before
the-
on the top of a distant mountain, the
bold outline of the Superga crowns the beauties of this charming panorama,
direction.
and happily terminates the prospect
Above
that
in
that position and higher up the river a
graceful iron bridge spans the Po, which has lost here
of the grandeur which
it
much
sustains in the vicinity of Ferrara.
I was present at the celebration of the festival of Saint

Peter, in the latter part of June, a day on which every one
is
absorbed in the ceremony, or procession, and the functions of
High Mass
at the Cathedral.
seen such a multitude of ugly
I do not ever
women
remember
to have
as were poured out into
the streets from the numerous convents of the city; so unfortunately homely were they, that,
it
may be
remarked, that they
were not able to make faces more unpleasant than their natural
BANKS OF THE DORIA.
ones,
61
and a grimace or two might have improved the expression
of each sister of charity.
The Cathedral
of Saint
nothing attractive in
its
John has
architecture.
little
to boast
of,
and
The music performed
at
the fete, was rather of the distracting order, and calculated

rather to craze the brains of the people than to soften and
So that with the unfortunate absence
tranquilize their souls.
of beauty,
and the turmoil of the Cathedral, the pageant of
Saint Peter presented a spectacle of mournful interest to the

beholder.
But the
rich
and picturesque church of San Sudario,
adjoining the Cathedral and the Royal Palace,
is
of the con-
torted architecture of P. Guarini, and presents his ordinary
mathematical triangles.
In
this
rotundo
is
preserved, in a silver
ornamented with gold and diamonds, and put under
shrine,
the
glass,
sacred winding-sheet that enveloped the body of
Christ, a sacred relic
brought from the East
in the time of the
Crusades by a Frenchman, Geoffroy de Charni, a Knight of
Champagne,
like
Thibaut and
Francis
Joinville.
I.
invoked
it
before the battle of Marignan, and on his return he went on

foot from
Lyons to Chambery, where the San Sudario then
was, for the purpose of worshipping

indeed,
there
is
is
it.
This
relic,
which,
not the only one which claims the same honor, (for
a similar in the basilic of Saint Peter's at Rome, and
two more
Perigord,)
besides, one at
is
for the
Besangon, the other at Cadouin in
French at
least a national
and glorious
memorial.
On
the afternoon of the last day that
took a pleasant
stroll
we
spent at Turin,
we
along the banks of the Doria, in order to
admire the singularly bold arch which spans the current of
its
wild and impetuously rapid stream, a pathway by the river's

side leads
back to the
city,
and upon the plankway of another
62
we
bridge,
a long time watching the views of the
rested
mountains in the back-ground, and the
fine
over the whole extent of the country around
It
and
of
was
ex-
plain,
intensity through the rest of the day.
became hotter to the end of our
ing the views
It
us.
and the noon-day sun sunk on the
cessively hot at Turin,

reflecting its force
of sunset
effects
Mount
Cenis,
and notwithstand-
sojourn,
{thought of Caucasus,)
and
thoughts of the Alps, the excessive heat of the weather forced
away toward Genoa.
us to hurry
ENVIRONS.
Stupinitz, a hunting palace, the roof of
surmounted by a great bronze
most splendid
edifice of its
Juvara's principal works.
buildings
lateral
hunting-men.
windows of
The
hill
is
it
one of
corresponds with four apart-
it
cross, for the
princes, with
officers,
Four long avenues proceed from the
this saloon,
and have a majestic
of Turin
charming in summer
is
is
presents a singular
the lords in waiting, the
for
picturesquely
be regarded as the
kind in Europe, and
form of a
in the
may
The oval saloon
and well-combined invention

ments disposed
stag,
which
and
four glazed
effect.
;
it
is
variegated
with woods, vineyards, gardens, beautiful palaces, and handsome

houses
many good
there are not, indeed,
titude of shady
and retired footpaths.
from these heights, and the

horizon was
effect
dimmed by vapors
roads, but a mul-
I saw the rising sun
was superb, though the
Mount
Viso, and the whole
chain of the Alps, were tinted of a rosy hue by his
and appeared
in the distance like
The Superga
temple, which
is
immense
first rays,
brilliant pyramids.
said to be so called from its
position on the ridge of these mountains, super terga montium,
SUPERGA TEMPLE.
crowns
Victor
Virgin,
this
beauteous
Amadeus
if
in
I.,
It
hill.
was
63
1106, by
built in
pursuance of a vow he had made to the
the attack he concerted on that very spot with Prince
Eugene should compel the French

This church and
to raise the siege of Turin.
monastary, of a
its
fine architectural disposi-
tion, despite its impurities, pass for the best
and most ingenious
The Superga church
of Juvara's constructions.
place of the sovereigns of Piedmont, but the
of this Savoyard Saint Denis,
and green marble, and

majesty and sadness
ture,
to
the second
the
materials, are unsuited
stone
arches,
basilics, are far
first
the caverns
more
fitting for
lived but a few days in inno-
may have been honored
me happy
throne of Savoy
abdications.
its
and princes of the royal family that never
ascended the throne
little
yellow,
In a separate vault are the remains
the sanctuaries of death.
both seemed to
modern vaults
the fantastic ornaments of the architec-
blackened by ages of the old
the burial
seemed to me devoid of
light as day,
notwithstanding the richness of
of the children
is
lined with white,
all
the tombs of kings, and the
cence
King
is,
in
as benefactors
having escaped the throne.
This
moreover, the one that numbers most
One would say
that these kings of the Alps, the
sovereigns of ice and rock, whose dominions are nearest the
heavens, take disgust at the earth more easily than others.
the apartment intended for the king

portraits of the popes,
is
a complete collection of
two hundred and
fifty-three in
from Saint Peter to the present possessor of
we
reflect
all
martyrs,
his chair.
number,
When
thirty of these pontiffs
were
impossible not to admire and respect this
new
on the fact that the

it is
In
first
courage, unique in history, and this same and intrepid sacrifice

to the same truth.
If,
while contemplating the portraits of
the succeeding popes, I sometimes
fell
on unworthy portions of
64
was not destroyed,
this great history, the general impression
and instead
phantoms of human power, the
of all the
exhibi-
and physical strength that pursues you
tion of material
the other galleries, I loved to contemplate
all
in
these laborious
helmsmen of Saint Peter's bark, the eternal representatives of

the greatest moral power that ever acted on the world.
TURIN
On
GENOA.
TO
the royal road to Genoa, I observed that the entire
The
route of the highway was sprinkled to allay the dust.
plan adopted to perform this work, was by digging a small
channel at the side of the road, and letting into this water
now the water was thrown

road by men who shoveled it out with
from various sources by the wayside

over the middle of the
long wooden ladles.
The cheapness
of labor in this country
enables this to be done without greatly taxing the people.
Darkness overtook us shortly after reaching Piorino, causing

us to regret that
which produce
we
could not
visit
the vineyards of Asti,
annually about 4,000,000 gallons of the best
wines in Piedmont, and,
when they become
old, will
bear com-
parison with the strongest of old Spain.
In the morning we arrived at Alexandria.

its
extent, the beauty of its
inhabitants,
it
name, and
its
Notwithstanding
twenty thousand
seemed rather a vulgar place, and, but
citadel, of itself
a town, and strictly forbidden to strangers,
should have been at a loss for a superb aspect.
we went
for the
over the
field of
we
Towards noon
There was nothing to be
Marengo.
seen but a few scattered fragments on that scene of the cele-
brated battle throughout the
has become of so
many
still
heroic
and deserted
men ?
plain.
What
If contemplating their
ALPINE TORNADO.
65
you seek an
features in the portraiture of the able Isabey,
answer to the question, death alone
column erected on the spot where Desaix was

there now.
It
is
it
killed
is
not
said that a lady, living in the neighborhood,
is
who was an admirer

where
The
will give the clue.
of his
used to stand, that
had
life,
buried on
it
.the
might not be destroyed.
it
spot
There
something touching in these honors of sepulchre conferred on
new
a time-worn monument of
a monument of French valor by a foreign lady.
column
is
already inhumed, like
Athens or Rome, and

glorious.
The present
it
deeds no
associated with
is
This
less
proprietor of this spot has erected an
auierge on the plain, after the plan of the castle at Saint
Helena, and on a spot of ground before this house, a statue has
been erected to the hero,
At
Napoleon.
about three posts further we struck the Appenines where
Novi, sheltered by a mountain, holds
and invokes your memories

liant Joubert,
its
in this plain,
picturesque position,
where perished the
one of those young conquerors of the
Italy, being surprised at
first
bril-
wars of
daybreak by the impetuous Suwarrow.
Just upon entering the valley of the Appenines a furious

gale
commenced blowing, the
force of
enough to stop the speed of the

to this region, which are
mountains of the
which was almost strong

These winds, peculiar
horses.
drawn through the
frontiers, are
funnels of the
borne with a violence of
irresist-
able impetuosity, and are sometimes powerful enough to over-
turn the diligence.
Upon
the
first
reaching the summit of a steep ascent, a fine view of

spur of the Appenines presented
windings of the mountain-road was

seen peeping behind the
hills,
for miles along the valley.
itself
the circuitous
now and then
occasionally
and again stretching
Here
also,
we
its
course
crossed the line of
TRACES OF THE ROMAK AND MOOR.
66
the projected railroad to Geneva, which will require some of

the heaviest tunneling
iii
Europe, one of the
On
having already been begun.
five
contemplated
a nearer approach to our
destination, the hills sundered wide apart on each side of a
rugged and desolated torrent-course, and the
commenced
side soon
until
It
catches a sight of the delightful amphitheatre of

lies
Genoa with
its
forts, fortresses
and active commercial
palaces,
is
not
d' Arena
one passes into the quarter of Saint Peter
" itself a fauxbourg of splendid palaces and gardens"
base
and
to be covered with pretty houses
indicating the proximity of a large city.
villas, clearly
on each
declivities
that one
hills,
at whose
and towers, shipping,
life.
GENOA.
The
its
aspect of Genoa, with
its
port, its palaces, its terraces,
balconies of white marble planted with orange trees, a realiza-
tion of hanging gardens,
amphitheatre,
title
of
La
one of the
citta,
is
truly superb,
Superba.
finest in the world.
have been built
The port
and earns
of
for
its
It
is
vast
the well-known
it
This city has only three streets, and
so poetically sung
Stael, to
and the ramparts that crown
it is
indeed la reak, la nobil
by Tasso, and
said
by Madame de
for a congress of kings.
Genoa seems always
losing her population daily
and
busy,
and whilst Yenice
is
falling into decay, her old rival,
the residence of the court some months of the year, appears

flourishing.
The
diligence,
and
skill,
and courage of the
sailors
of the Gulf of Genoa, assueto que malo Ligwrem,
who
thirty thousand in number, are extraordinary.
Their tartans,
small crafts about the size of a room, on which they
are about
sail,
reach
DARING SAILORS.
67
even the ports of the ocean; and in the month of October,

1822, a Genoese vessel had arrived from Peru, after a passage
This enterprising and laborious race of
of ninety-three days.
men, interesting for their manners, frugality, and
thrift, strik-
ingly contrast with the inhabitants of most other countries in

Italy,
and they seem to have preserved something of the
navi-
gating instinct peculiar to the Italians of the fifteenth century.
strange
hereditary
expect to find there,
is
aristocracy,
that one would hardly
displayed in the service of Porto Franco,
a kind of small sea town, always exclusively reserved to Ber-
gamese
porters,
all
They
others being rigorously excluded.
seem, however, worthy of their privilege, as they have a reputation for dexterity
centuries,
and
caravaiia,
and uprightness which has endured
their company,
known under
the Arabic
dates from the year 1340, and
was
for five
name
instituted
of
by
Saint George's Bank.
The great
hall of Saint George, over the
happy proportions, and with a

country,
its
is
custom house of
tree roof, as usual in that
fir
ornamented with the dusty and neglected statues of
founders.
Saint George's Bank, a political,
mercial institution, which
owned the
fiscal,
island of Corsica, Sarzana,
and some other towns on the eastern and western

like the
East India Company of the middle ages.
was almost that
An
of Genoa.
the proud power of the
and com-
coast,
was
Its history
ancient marble group shows
Genoese;
it
represents the
griffin
holding in his claws an eagle, the emblem of the Emperor

Frederick, and a fox, the Pisan arms, with this inscription:
''
Gryphus
lit lias
Sic hostes
Over the
angit
Genua
frangit/
"o
J
principal door of the custom house, are suspended
68
some
links of
of Pisa, but
The gate
by Geleasa
an iron chain which was used to
was borne
of the
ing fine inscription
triumph by the Genoese
off in
Old Mole, an imposing and
Alessi, has
close the ports
on the
side
in 1290.
solid fortification
toward the
sea, the follow-
by Bonfadio
EXTRUCTAQ. PORTA
PROPUGNACULO MUNITA
URBEM CINGEBANT MCENIBUS
QUACUMQ, ALLUITUR MARI.
ANNO
The Loggia de Banchi,

by
is
afDLIII.
and economical
skillful
structure,
Alessi, which, for the boldness of the roof, consisting simply
of ship masts, the
Genoese
call
hazards did not commonly befall
un
men
let
azzardo, as
if
such
of genius.
PALACES.
If
Genoa may be
chief attraction
well termed the
Superba,
it
derives its
from the number and beauty of
its
Palaces in
the Strada Nuova.
The Spinola (Maximilian) Palace, is distinguished among

them by the happy proportion of the porticos in the court, the
originality of its cloister, arched roofs, and the room on the first
painted in fresco,
floor
at eighteen
years
of age,
by Luca
Cambiaso, a clever and precocious Genoese
artist of the six-
teenth century, of a bold and prolific genius,
who worked with
two
pencils at once, but
years.
whose good period only lasted a dozen
JEALOUSY OF ARTISTS.
Indifferent with respect to art
Palace
is
only noted for
and badly
saloon on the
its
highly praised during the
last
69
built,
the Serra
first floor,
which was
and surnamed the
century,
Palace of the Sun, by the President Dupuy; but

in
which there
is
truly
an excess of mirrors,
guished by richness than taste.

francs were expended
upon
It
this toy,
is
commands an
decoration,
rather distin-
is
said that a million of
a monument of ostentation
The
and luxury, rather than true magnificence.

looking the sea,
its
terrace, over-
extensive prospect over the
town.
The Brignole (Rosso) Palace has some great

proportions,
and the gallery
is
one of the
first
porticos of fine
Genoa.
in
Its
rooms, although well distributed, and in bad taste with exces-
many
excellent paintings,
certain
works by Pellegro
sive frescoing of the ceilings, contain
among which I
Piola, a
especially
remember
Genoese painter of great promise, who was waylaid
and assassinated
in his twenty-third year,
of the popularity of his
by
Madonna, which
is
his rivals, jealous

still
exposed in
Goldsmith's street, another victim to the violent professional

enmities of that age, and akin to the Artist's hatred, mentioned
by Yalery, while speaking of some frescoes of the
ceiling in the
Chapel of the Treasury of the Cathedral at Naples.

says, "
The superb
lunettes, are also
frescoes of the
ceilings,
by Domenichino; but
He
there
the corners, and
for the persecutions
he
experienced from his rivals he would have painted the cupola,

at which Lanfranco refused to
his great predecessor
was
work
effaced.
been employed at this chapel,
unless the part
Guido was
also to
have
and had repaired to Naples,
whence he was forced to depart suddenly

threats of
begun by
Spagnoletto, and the Greek,
in
consequence of the
Belesario
then a true despot over the arts in this country,
Corenzio,
who had
tried
10
to poison him.
him, and took
The Cav. d'Arpino, was
Gessi, a pupil of Guido, not deterred
flight.
his master's adventure, also
came
to Naples with
a galley, under pretence of seeing
it,
his
the anchor was* raised,
own
see Titian at
work with a
and
what became of
their disconsolate master could never discover
When we
two of
by
him; but the latter being enticed on board
disciples to replace
them.
menaced by
likewise
knife
by
his side,
Giorgione arm himself with a cuirass while painting in public

Masaccio, Perozzi,
remember the
Barroccio,
and when we
of poison;
die
tragic fate of a multitude of other painters, the
hatred and passions of artists appear, especially in Italy, more

violent
and
irritable
than the
self-love of literary
men."
Whilst passing along the Strada Balbi, curiosity led

visit
the magnificent Durazzo palace,
two grand white marble

vestibule
now
is
and
facility,
chairs only were used in this capital in former times.
war which
The
royal palace of
Andrea Doria,
who was summoned from Rome
of the
The
its
works of
of the architecture of
a long characteristic inscription of a single

tablature
sedanfirst
a formidable place of
not perhaps duly appreciated for
is
Montorsoli,
city,
for
in;
and other palaces
masterpieces of the pictorial art decorate this
Genoa, a rich and mercantile
the
left of
the only one in Genoa,
which carriages can enter and turn with
in
to
the King's, which has
staircases to the right
by Carlo Fontana, and
me
to build
line
windows, which states that
it,
art.
Fra
has
under the enits
illustrious
founder had been admiral of the Pope, of Charles V., Francis

I.,
and of
his
own
country, an extraordinary man, whose alliance
was sought by the greatest
Moors and Turks with
his
princes,
own
galleys,
who had
defeated the
and was himself almost
a power.
The poor
statue of the old admiral, as Neptune, stands in the
DOG OF DORIA.
middle of the garden near the shore

of the fifteenth century,
tache
*ll
but his romantic mous-
strangely with the
contrasts
The
nakedness and classical attributes of the marine deitv.
door
from the designs of Perino del Yaga, a pupil of Raphael,
is
who, having escaped the sack of
Rome
with
loss of his all,
was
generously welcomed by Doria, decorated this palace with his

finest paintings.
Such are the stuccos and grotesques of the
vestibule, resembling the Loggia, at
worked some
;
little
children, Horatius
and three other subjects of

for invention
Roman
Codes, Mutius Seas vola,
history,
and composition, and the
worthy of Raphael
ceiling of the
War
of
the
almost equalling the frescos of the Farnesina.
The
opposite and above the palace, with the porticos
and
Giants,
trellis,
which Perino del Yaga, had
colonnaded porches running out toward
the
command
sea
various views of the picturesque points of Genoa, and fresh
glimpses over the forests of the harbor, between the Old and
New
Moles.
The grounds and
like the rest of this
superb abode.
the dog given by Charles Y. to

It
fountains are
was placed at the
now
The mausoleum
Andrea Doria,
is
neglected
of Roedan,
almost buried.
foot of the colossal statue of Jupiter, that
the great Roedan, as the whimsical epitaph stated, might not

cease to guard a prince, even after his
death.
Doria again
returned in triumph to his country, and his dog, so magnificently interred, cannot have the merit of that of Ulysses, which
a French poet has happily painted in four words
"
Ai-je encor des amis
Un
Not
far
seul m'^tait reste,
from Jupiter
Galeaso Alessi, a
is
non parmi
the
l.es
grotto,
humains."
from the designs of
brilliant construction of
white marble, form-
72
ing a terrace, which so admirably finishes the garden and overlooks the sea.
At
the top of the garden of the Scoglietto, a villa of ordi-
nary architecture, but a quiet and cheerful retreat from the

heats of the city,
it is
singularly agreeable to observe
and pomegranate
races, grottos, cascades, its orange, lemon,
groves,
It
its
pine woods, and especially
was no
less interesting to
its site
its ter-
above the
sea.
ascend to the lighthouse, called
the Lantern, at Genoa, a picturesque structure, reared on a

lofty
rock which served for
its
base
and then to behold the
magnificent horizon thence discovered.
Whilst
visiting
the various palaces
of Genoa, during the
hours which had been appointed for the admission of strangers,
by
their respective owners, there
was none that
claimed our attention as the Pallavicini, with
its
so largely
judicious
and
elegant architecture, position, and charming grotto; rendering

it
one of the most remarkable in Genoa.
Cromwell once inhabited
it,
It
is
pretended that
but nothing can be more uncertain
than this tradition.

Still,
on walking through the Balbi Strada, what an enchant-
ing effect was produced by the porticos of
its
splendid palace,
(the Povera,) so remarkable for their proportions, and the richness of
its
nympheum, which terminates
oranges planted in the
soil.
The palace
in a large
garden of
itself is in excellent style,
and the rooms being ornamented with paintings of great
merit,
the decorations consisting of blue and gold enamel.
The
all
courtesy by which
we were permitted
occupation of the family, did not
to enter during the actual
fail
to
contribute to the
pleasure of our interview.

I visited the charming picturesque retreat of the Marquis
Giovanni Carlo
di
Negro, a perfect model of that courtesy and
A CLEVER MARQUIS.
Italian
good
feeling
sufficiently praised.
'
73
towards strangers, which can never be
He
has expended a large fortune in adorn-
ing the grounds with terraces and labyrinthine walks, having
husbanded the small surface of the

economy, that every inch
on
soil
this place
much beauty and
cultivated with as
is
with such
advantage as the nature of the land permits.
From
these
hanging gardens you obtain extensive and glorious views over

the harbor and the sea, and from other points of these parapets
of rock, rich prospects are to be
had towards the
inland, embrac-
ing the swelling hillocks of the interior, and displaying their

sides covered
with
many
pretty villas
the prospect reminding
one somewhat of the vicinity of Florence.
The garden
of the
Marquis, visited by the Pope, the Emperor of Austria, the
Kings of Sardinia and Naples, was worthy of these honors,

less
from
its
wonderful situation,
its library, its
than the talents and urbane character of
its
amiable possessor,
who, besides being a passionate lover of the

distinguished improvisatore
and author.
charming features that claim
for
City, there are
none so
Genoa
likely to
exotic plants,
fine arts,
Among
its title
the
was a
many
of the Superb
be remembered by strangers
as the beautiful promenades which they have always delighted

to frequent at evening.
These public walks form a peculiar
attraction in almost every seaport of note on the Continent,
and under whatever name they may be found, whether of

Alemeda, Paseo, Corse, rampart,
they will be
first
by the wanderer,
of
life
fortification, or sea-girt walls,
discovered and most eagerly sought after
in order to refresh his
mind with these scenes
and gaiety with which they abound.
That grand
street of palaces,
a noon-day promenade.
passengers on the
way
This,
the Strada Nuova, furnishes
on Sunday,
is
crowded with
to the cooler retreats of the terraces.

4
14
The Acqua
walks,
verde,
and Acqua
the most beautiful of these
sola,
commanding not only a view
of the city's outline, but
holding in embrace that extensive and magnificent panorama of

harbor, shipping and active
sea, sky, inland, port,

set, so justly
the distant
at sun-
life
the boast of her citizens, have within their reach
isles of
the Mediterranean and the bold forms of the
There
descending Appenines.
the soul at evening,
when
the Genoese beauties
is
a charm in both that wins
their paths are trodden
for pretty
women and
by the
feet of
smiling landscapes
never yet failed to sooth the heart of the rover in distant lands,
especially at the evening stroll,
when
the setting sun paints the
and the rosy
fingers of its gorgeous
scenery with
its
rays pencil
the sky and sea with the last faint blushes of
splendor,
quivering light.
But the
ladies,
women, we must repeat
or the
The
chief objects of attraction in these gardens.
it,
are the
beautiful girls
of Genoa, and the roguishly eyed Genoese, enchant the

holder, especially on Sundays,
menade, either upon the
when
circuit
other fine terraces of the
city.
all
the town
of the
How
is
be-
out in pro-
fortifications,
or the
bewitching are those
piercing glances darting from bright eyes, that peep out under
the light folds of their gossamer white
veils,
so faintly conceal-
ing their snowy skins, and softening the lustre of their raven
All the Italian ladies have a peculiar faculty in dress-
locks.
ing their hair, but the Genoese have attained to perfection in

the art.
ears, as
hang
The head
with
us,
is
and brought behind
so as to
lie
in plaits or
in graceful loops in pendants, which are kept up
elegant tortoise-shell
falls
combed with the same order before the
comb
by an
a thin muslin gauze or lace veil
from the embrace of heavy golden
necks only to enhance their charm, while
pins,
it
covering their
flows in graceful
BEAUTIES
folds over the
BRIDGE.
form of their bare arms, and dropping from the
head somewhat
after the style of the mantilla, seems to dally
with the winds as wantonly as these

favors.
This pretty costume,
their noble
attractive,
75
w ith
T
and excite
the added gracefulness of
Genoese beauties exceedingly
render the
gaits,
owners with their
fair
in the spectator all these sentiments of
admiration and surprise that can be embraced between the

sight of gracefully poised heads, pretty faces, bewitching glances,
and
Truly, ye fair ones of the even-
figures of peerless grace.
ing's walk, ye did often cause
On
one occasion after a
me
to forget
my
love
first
STROLL.
visit to
the Pallaverini Palace,
we
entered into the Church of Saint Stephen, in order to see the
Martyrdom of the Saint, a celebrated painting given to this

Church by Leo X. and the Cardinal Giulio de Medici, which is
one of the
finest
and most remarkable chefs d'ceuvre
The lower part by

work
in oil; the
Giulio
upper part
much from time and

of the coloring
Romano, may be regarded
its
is
by Raphael.
was almost obscured, and were
of the Saviour in the upper part,
By
hand
of
had
its
as his best
suffered so
removal from Paris, that the brilliancy
excellent drawing of the figures,
nize the
It
of Italy.
it
not for the
and the beauty of the drapery

it
would be
difficult
to recog-
master.
continuing our walk,
we reached
the noble structure of
the bridge of Carignano, a bold construction joining the two

hills,
with houses seven stories high beneath
Sauli family, ancient patricians of Genoa,
the public welfare and convenience.
it,
built
by the
who were devoted
Few cities
and animated an aspect as that obtained from
to
present so varied
this point; the
16
peculiar construction of the houses,
added
their
charms to
and
their colors
this fascinating spot
and shapes,
and while these
harmoniously blended with the verdure and outlines of the
hills
in our rear, they happily combined to increase the beauty and
loveliness of the scene in our front, wherein the soft sky of this
climate
was
in perfect union
and keeping with the purer blue
of the sea.
The
a
smiling
hill
of Albaro, covered with superb villas, formed
close to our delightful sojourn in this city; and, with the
fit
mind the residence
Saluzzi Palace, brought to our
Byron
This palace he inhabited
at the Paradiso.
Lord
of
he departed
thence for Greece, but returned a moment, when, becalmed a
whole day, within sight of Genoa, and he had there a presenti-
ment
Having expressed a
of his approaching glorious end.
wish to see this palace once more, he went thither, accompanied
by Count Gamba
"
alone.
" took a melancholy turn
His conversation," says the
he spoke much of
"
the uncertainty of the future.

" a year hence ?"
friend
" It
was
shall
his past life
we
and
be," said he,
a gloomy prophecy," adds his
like
" for the year after,
Where
latter,
on the same day of the same
month, he was laid in the tomb of his ancestors."

I happened to be in Genoa, at the anniversary of the day
of our
national independence,
satisfaction
and
it
was with
feelings of
and pride that I attended a dinner, given by the
American captains of the
port,
having given birth to Columbus.
which claims the honor of

I was pleased to have
there so creditable a representation of those seamen to
our commercial interests have been so happily intrusted
met
whom
;
and
glory in the acknowledgment of the fact, that our navigators

will
bear an honorable comparison with the captains of any
nation in the world; in fact,
it
may be
safely said, that in
COLUMBUS OUR FIRST SAILOR.
1?
their gentlemanly deportment, correct conduct
they excel over
skill
celebration no excess
all
or conversation exhibited.
in,
and a
them the
sociability
The time was
national politics and
firm conviction, that the honor of the
of the
On
the
Americans was a
sailor
American
flag
The
to these honest tars.
one Christoforo Colombo.
the last afternoon that I spent in the city I ascended
hills,
many
pleasantly and in-
and courtesy enjoyed, which carried with
had not been unwisely committed

first
this
nor vulgarity of manner
structively passed in discussion of our

policy,
At
met abroad.
others that I
was indulged
and maritime
back of the town, and walked, while enjoying the
my
magnificent views obtained at successive heights in
progress, until I reached a long piece of the aqueduct that
brings the water from a distance of six leagues into the different
parts of the city, and even to the upper stories of every house
my
and thence resumed
walk
until I arrived at the
fort in the line of the fortifications,
promenade
in Italy,
leisurely
and
and the
sea.
whence two
the
distinct
delightfully enjoyed,
Descending by a
limit of the
and superb
over the
different
city,
aad was soon
hung with the

foveri,
lost in the
finest
vistas
were
the harbor,
pathway, cut mostly
oat of the rocky side of the mountain, I passed

valley,
down
into the
shades of a deep ravine, over-
forests that surround the walls of the Alhergo de
one of the most extensive hospitals in Italy, having
accommodations
for
two thousand and two hundred inmates.
Probably no other
city possesses so
abodes for misery and
affliction.
many
or such luxurious
The luxury
of the arts has
been introduced into these asylums of wretchedness and

imparting to them a kind of dignity.
ferent benefactors represent
to the
uppermost
amount of
The
statues of the
toil,
dif-
them seated or standing, according
their donations.
78
The superb
staircase
and porticos of the court of the hospital
de Pammatone, are built with marble of a dazzling whiteness
never had bodily pain a more magnificent dwelling, and moral

suffering
not better lodged in palaces.
is
charity has
livres
its
ceremonial and etiquette; the donors of 1000
have an inscription
livres are required for
Near
this
monument
those of 2000 livres a bust
its
4000
a statue.
asylum for the
of
As, at the Albergo,
courage.
afflictions of
A marble
slab,
the people exists a
with an inscription,
marks the spot where, on the 5th of December, 1746, the

Austrians attempted to compel the people of Genoa by blows
to raise one of their mortars, which
a drain as
by a
was passing along the
it
had broken through
street.
stone,
child eight years of age, the son of a shoemaker,
into
thrown
who was
incensed at seeing his father beaten, was the signal for that
noble insurrection, which soon became general.
Overwhelmed
German
by the
stones with which
soldiers
were driven from the town, and their generals con-
sented to negotiate.
had, at
first,
they were assailed, the
The doge, the
and
nobility,
who
assayed to suppress the insurrection, then came to
the aid of the victorious people,

ters of the arsenals
from France
senate,
who had made
and ramparts
troops and
themselves mas-
money were
sent
and the Republic of Genoa, honorably included
in the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, recovered its ancient limits.
The conservatory
industry, founded
artificial flowers,
of the Fiesckim, a convent, and house of
by one Dominican Fieschi, celebrated
which are sold
in all parts of
for its
Europe, presents
a piquant contrast; poor and holy maidens bedeck with their

garlands the world they have quitted, and these brilliant but
very dear flowers are offered you for sale through the double
grating of a parlor, by a Flora in wimple and biggin.
THE OCEAN ROAD.
Thus having seen
we
^9
that was interesting in this vicinity,
all
closed the evening of our last day at Genoa, a city of
palaces,
and magnificent
beautifully
and
loveliness,
its
meeting of
its
not only luxuriously great, but
charities,
brilliantly
good with
all its
charms of earthly
and prospects, by sea and land, the
aspects
'
processions, the songs of the people, the lively
ancT spirited expression of the countenances, the glaring colors
of the dresses
buildings
we
worn by the women, the
in fact, wdiere everything
and
solidity
are in Italy, and in Gefioa, the proud City!
these
names deepens the impression on the
repeat involuntarily,
this
is
"and Genoa!
size of
the
combines to inform us that
this,
The. magic of
"Italy!" I
senses.
then,
is
Italy!
and
Genoa la Superba.
LA
III
TIER A.
TO NICE.
The road from Genoa
to Nice
is
Riviera following the coast, and

in
Europe
in
the beauty of
and variety of the

land
cultivation,
its
by the way
is
of the celebrated
unsurpassed by any other
landscapes,
or the richness
w hich decks the marginal

r
of the
side.
You
ride always in sight of the
ocean,
now ascending
to
elevated points by the wayside, whence you look out over an
land and water;
immense expanse
of
fording mountain
streams,
passing through
many
or
skirting
now
crossing valleys,
rich
plantations,
picturesque valla ges, you then run
the vineyards and olive groves, whilst your course
with the rich perfumes of the citron and orange

Starting from San Pier
d' Arena,
is
and
among
scented
trees.
perhaps the most magnifi-
80
cent of
Alessi
is
all
suburbs, the beautiful Villa Imperiale
now belonging
remarkable for
elevations,
and
its
by Galeaso
to a learned Genoese physician, Scassi

plan, its well-proportioned
scientific
its
extensive gardens ornamented with grottoes,
The
ramps, sheets of water, and charming fountains.

of the villas in the vicinity of Genoa,
is
richness
not surprising, as they
were formerly the theatres of the splendid
fetes,
that the sump-
tuary laws of the republic did not suffer in the town;
it
was
in
the country then that diamonds were worn.
Having crossed over the bridge
of Cornigliano, the spot,
where, after sixty days' resistance, after doing
man
or moral powers of
honorable capitulation,
all
the physical
could achieve, Massena signed his
we passed by
Among
and many beautiful towns.
several delightful villas,
Cogoleto will not
these,
give up the honor of having given birth to Columbus.
Not-
withstanding the multitude of researches and dissertations
it
now
pretty certain that Columbus
is
was a native of Genoa,
according to the sublime and affecting passage from the will

of the
great
natural de
man
ella,
Que
porque de
siendo yo nacido en
ella
y en
ella naci,
Genova
como
a declaration that
ought to be conclusive.
The
pretensions
Cogoleto appeared for
of
founded, from the fact, that two admirals
named Colombo, and

They even
natives of that place, sailed with Columbus.
tend to
know
found very
his house, a
fitly
a time well
pre-
kind of hut on the sea-shore which I
occupied by a coast guard
on
it
may be
read,
after a multitude of miserable inscriptions, this fine verse, an
impromptu by Gaglium
" Unus erat mundus
In the town-house,
is
duo
sint, ait iste
fuere."
an antique portrait of Columbus, but
it
WET THE
can hardly be a likeness, or
81
ROPES.
this intrepid, eloquent, enlightened,
and inspired man had a very ordinary appearance.

tion of Cogoleto
situa-
on "the sea-shore, was very picturesque, while
by a thicket
the ruins of an old castle surrounded
the foreground,
The
with the
of cactus, in
background of low
towards the water's edge, lend
hills
sloping
an aspect of exquisite beauty.
it
The whole road beyond, continued with heightened and

creased interest.
Tall steeples, and quaint old watch towers,
ornamented the bold

with
fig trees,
line of the coast
and, occasionally, palms
united to lend an oriental feature to the scenery,

varied by clumps of prickly-
oleanders and acanthas
whilst
pear shrubs fringed the road-side before
The people along shore seemed

contented
in-
we
arrived at Sarona.
to be industrious,
was that of
their occupation
manufacturing of paper and other
happy and
ship-building,
and
articles.
Savona, a very ancient town, agreeably situated, but rather

deserted, has the finest fort on this coast, which stands on a
rock close by the sea,
From
dark.
this point
it
was the
last village
we journeyed
reached before
during the night as far
town of San Remo.
as the
This wealthy town, ornamented with gardens and fine buildings,
is
more particularly remarkable
for the
hermitage of Saint Romulus which crowns
palm
its
trees of the
heights,
and
dis-
plays their oriental pomp, beside an abundant Italian vegetation

of orange, citron, and olive trees.
joys the just privilege granted
churches of
is
said to
find
Rome
The Bresca family
still
en-
by Sixtus V., of supplying the
With palms on
Palm Sunday.
This privilege
have originated in the following manner, though I
no trace of the anecdote
in the best
informed contemporary
however, in some measure supported by the
historians; it
is,
frescos in the
chamber of the Vatican Library
When Fon-
82
tana was preparing to raise the obelisk of Saint Peter's by the
machinery he had invented for that purpose, he required the
most profound
might be
silence, that his orders
distinctly heard.
The
inflexible Sixtus published
first
bystander that shouted should be instantly put to death,
whatever might be
when
the ropes, as
if
his
an edict to the
At
rank or condition.
by magic, had
almost high enough to place
it
effect that
the
the
moment
raised the enormous mass
on the pedestal, when the Pope
was encouraging the workmen by approving nods, and Fontana,
who
alone spoke, was ordering a last and decisive
suddenly exclaimed with a stentorian voice
effort,
Acqua
alle
man
corde!
(wet the ropes,) and advanced from the crowd to deliver himself
up to the executioner and
his satellites,
Fontana
gallows erected on the piazza.
who
stood near a
attentively observed
the ropes, and seeing that they were on the point of breaking
from extreme tension, ordered them to be instantly wetted
they were immediately contracted and the obelisk settled on the

pedestal amid universal plaudits.
Fontana ran to the man
whose advice had been so opportune, embraced him, and presenting
him
to the Pope, asked
and obtained an instant pardon.
Bresca was further rewarded with a considerable pension, and

this hereditary privilege of supplying
Rome
with palms.
since the Easter festival of 1587, a ship has
with
it
this sacred cargo,
Ever
annually sailed
and Providence seems to have blessed
beforehand, for of these two hundred and sixty-five vessels,
not one has suffered a shipwreck.

Yintimiglia, seated on a rock,
and somewhat deserted,
an ancient town, claiming
its
Cicero mentions
JEpistolce
it
in
his
ancestry
is
from the Romans.
Familiares,
narrates the action of that Ligurian mother
who
and Tacitus
perished in
the pillage of the town, rather than yield up her son to the
A NOBLE MOTHER.
soldiers of
83
Otho; she was tortured to make her confess where
he was concealed, but, says the historian, Uterum
ostendens,
The ancient cathedral was perhaps the temple
latere resjpondit.
of Juno, and the Church of Saint Michael, that of Castor
Latte
Pollux.
is
and
the fashionable resort, the Albano of Yen-
timigiians.
The
small State of the Prince of Monaco, projecting into the
sea, is only
La
an orangery on a rock.
Turbia, the last place of interest on the route of the
Riviera,
still
holds the remarkable ruins of the trophies of
Augustus, which were erected to him by the Senate, in memory

of the battle of Actium,
statue;
it
is
and were surmounted by
not unlikely that
La
Turbia takes
his colossal
its
name from
these trophies, (Trophcea Augusti,) which, at a distance, has
This tower
the aspect of a tovver.
is
wonderful points of view on the road.
from Genoa to Nice, seemed to

extending to Leghorn.
me
the last of the
The
many
coast of Italy,
superior to the other part
It offers a succession of brilliant pro-
montories, covered with olive groves, whose pale verdure contrasts with the vivid
chestnut trees;
cupolas,
and
green of the pines, the orange, lemon, and
immense
palaces,
steeples of churches,
pretty red-painted houses,
add
to the
effect
of this
vast decoration, interspersed with rocks and torrents; in some

parts beautiful valleys, under cultivation, extend
by the
side* of
the sea, and from smiling and tranquil bays of verdure, beside
the restless azure of the waves.

sun, are admirable
on
this horizon
The
;
rising
and setting of the
nature here unfolds at every
step her most magnificent scenery..
Nothing, therefore, could more properly terminate the incomparable beauty of this variety of perspective, than the picturesque aspect of
its
terminus
the town of Nice.
84
NICE.
I
was not disappointed with the
walking through
its
interior of this town, while
cleanly and well-paved
streets
after our
Notwithstanding the interest created by the memory
entrance.
of this seat
Nice, with
of the
all its
famous Grand Council of the Church,
and
antiquities
its
amphitheatre, seemed less
an Italian town than one of the old French prefectures; the

sign boards are in French,
the same tongue
and the Savoyard garrison spoke
Nice also belonged to France, as part of the
county of Provence; Malherbe regretted
its loss,
admirable verses expressed his wish to see
it
and
in these
retaken:
" Guise en ses murailles forcees,

Kemettra les bornes passees,
Qu'avoit notre empire marin ;"
in his
ode to Maria de Medici, on 4he happy future of France.
The
climate
is
genial rather than brilliant, and the popula-
tion chiefly consists of a languishing colony of opulent strangers,
most of them victims of the
who
factitious
their apparently happy,
but
of which listlessness, regret,
and
are prematurely destroyed
really miserable kind of
life,
by
enjoyments of society,
The
disappointment are the incurable diseases.
menade
saw some young
who were charming and
of fair complexion,
inspired a kind of melancholy
English ladies there,
public pro-
but pale, and on the confines of death.
There are certain maladies against which the climate of

Nice, far from being efficacious, as imagined,
is
every year's experience tends to prove that
hastens the end
it
of persons attacked by pulmonary consumption.
mortal
thus
EDOUARD AND OURIKA.
"
Although presenting no object of
"was
Nice," says Yalery,
art,
mind with the memory of a superior
associated in his
woman, whom
85
was fortunate enough to
see again there, for
The Duchess
the last time, shortly before she died."
of Duras,
author of Edouard and Ourika, the delicate and pathetic painter of the fatality of social inequalities, then inhabited a small
house at the extremity of the town.
animated and
taste,
days
It
was
not, indeed, the
saloon of Paris, which combined the
brilliant
elegance and politeness of the French society of past
and the education, reason, and

where are met
society,
all
the eminent
sciences
and arts
was the
hospital, the solitude of
but
this
The
by a beloved daughter.
painful to her friends,
activity, devotedness,
seemed
who
men
in politics, letters,
lone house, this
orange-orchard
an invalid assiduously tended
loss of the
alone could
Duchess of Duras, so
know
the truth,
all
and enthusiasm of her noble character,
also a kind of calamity for
mere people of the world
such saloons have a happy influence over opinion
honor to the country, and promote
and develope
its
new
of the
solidity
genius,
civilization
and represent
it
they do
they excite
nobly to the eyes of
foreigners.
TO
The
first
MARSEILLE
S.
portion of the road out from Nice was of a similar
character to the path of our journey thitherward
be called the Riviera, for

nately leaving
is
it,
it
might
continues in view of the sea
and regaining
finally lost at Firgus.
still
it
it,
still
alter-
until all sight of the waters
Our course from
this point
became
more interesting from the fact of the occurring season of
the harvesting of the crops.
Here we saw them treading out
86
the grain with horses, after the

(the nse of the
manner
of the East, with oxen,
The
apparantly not being in vogue).
flail
view here obtained of the Estrella mountains, while we were

passing over
Mont de
Grasse, was magnificent,
sweep that embraced even the pretty green
commanding a
little isles
of Saint
Marguerite, which shone like emeralds in the distant sea.
Immediately after crossing the

with the contrast
frontier,
between
exhibited
you
will
France
be struck
and
Savoy.
Observe the improvement in the roads; the more careful and

individual cultivation of the soil
santry,
the happier air of the pea-
and the coy grace of the pretty persons, and smiling
faces of those pert little bonneted demoiselles
pass you by
Everything tends to remind you of "la belle
the way-side.
France," that country which

ness of a
who
new
The
revolution.
supplant the oranges and
is still
gay, in spite of the fresh-
olives
and grapes of France
Piedmont, as her more gene-
figs of
rous nature displaces the stern and sterile features of the mountains of Savoy.
The
vine
is
nourished from the
soil
with no
other support than a few small uprightly set sticks.
While running over these mountains, I missed the
luxuri-
verdure of our forests covering the Alleghanies,
being
ant
reminded of them by the naked
outlines.
At Firgus, where we saw some fine

Roman aqueducts, we left the sea road
relics of
entirely,
the
ancient
and crossing
over the weary length of the vast sand plain, skirting the woods
of Brignole, were soon lost to all recollection of the famous
we had fallen
and we slept until
brigands that once inhabited these forests, for

asleep under the
we awoke
murmurs
of the rustling foliage,
at Aix, with a feeling of chagrin at hearing that this
was not the Aix

either to get
of
Champagne;
any of
it
or, if it
was,
we were not
able
to drink, or to learn from the natives,
SANS CULOTTES.
whether
is
this
8T
grape had ever been raised in the country.
There
not a more monotonous road in the world, than that which
stretches
and
ness
at the
from Aix to the port; and a sense of weari-
its line
solitude controls your thoughts until the eye glistens
first
and
sight of of the noble fort
city of Marseilles.
MARSEILLES.
THE CITY.
"Look
out for a row to morrow/ said the venerable
Rabout,
sieur
Mon-
my
banker, as I seated myself in a quiet corner
of his cabinet, waiting for
him
my
to cash
from the
credit
Barings.
" Revolutions are fearful things for the rich," he added, " and
if this
state of affairs continue,
we
shall all of us
have to emi-
grate from France."
"You had
blow
over,
state,
better not," I replied, "this emeute
and things
when order
will
will settle
down
be restored
in a
and
few days
may
in a
would be
it
soon
calmer
folly for
the only respectable people in France to quit the country, at

the time
when they were most needed
of the enemy,
to confront the actions
and by withdrawing with
their moneys, thus
deprive the government of the sinews of war.
and
fight it out
will
soon
my
fail in
friend," I continued,
their plots,
" the red republicans
and the sans
vided with pantaloons, in Cayenne.
You had best stay
culottes will
be pro-
I will not stay to see the
fun."
Marseilles, therefore, under this present state of excitement,
offered few inducements for a sojourn in the city; besides its
Parisian aspect took
away
all
the original interest which
it
88
otherwise might have had,
the imitation of the capital was
if
not so perceptibly obtrusive.
SOUTH OF FRANCE.
On
the following morning, that of the anticipated outbreak
(the revolution
did not happen as
it
was expected)
the cars at the station, and before ten o'clock was on
Montpelier.
The
usual
activity
railway depot, had attracted
and
me
excitability of the people,
trast existing
I took
my way
to
and bustle incidental to a

to observe the peculiar gaiety
and to remark the strong con-
between the French laborers and the peasants of
Savoy.
What
a relief
it
was
to be steamed
away from the din and
dust of a market town, and thus launched, as
bosom
were, into the
of nature, for the freer indulgence of one's thought, or
the fresher breath of pure air at the lungs

all
it
rail
Nevertheless,
road rides are stupid in themselves, for you are so
pummelled and jumbled by the nervous vibrations of

running motion, that your body quivers
of your journey, and
little is left for
like a jelly at
their
the end
the brains to digest, where
objects of sensation are so rapidly sent through the sight, that
landscape and animals hurry away like objects on the lenses of
a magic-lantern.
especial attention
Fortunately there was nothing worthy of
on the route.
In the
the acquaintance of a young Spanish
from Turin to her home at Yittoria,
cars,
girl,
an opportunity to brush up
Spanish language, for there
way
is
who was
in Spain, after
returning
a period
This happy meeting
of instruction as a governess at Turin.
gave me
however, I formed
my knowledge
no more
of the
facile and agreeable
of learning a tongue, than that of listening to the speech
89
SANS CEREMONIE.
whom
young female, with
of a pretty
revive a small feeling of love.
it
There
would not be
Arab
boys, on their
way
Perpignan; they afforded
in the
same
to
no better dictionary
is
woman.
of language than the lips of a fascinating
Our other companions
difficult
cars,
were several young
to school at 'the military college of
me an
occasion to recall
my
slumber-
ing Arabic, so that between the governess and these youths,
with the advantage of two tongues, and a constant use of the

French,
my journey
as far as Montpelier, proved
more
interest-
ing than I had anticipated w^hen I started from the station.
On
arriving at the first relay-house
we were
obliged to be
ferried over the
Rhone, the railroad-bridge not having yet been
completed over
this stream.
cars,
Having resumed our
on the opposite bank of the
river,
we were
seats in the
impelled by
our iron-horse through a very pleasant country as far as Nymes.
Here we stopped about one hour

heart and
I,
and
my
Spanish sweet-
wasted the interval by dining quite
cosily
and
sans ceremonie at a tratteur in the neighborhood of the hotel.
While
discussing our meals
we were
heartily entertained
by the
amusing loquacity of a traveled lacquey, who conversed very

learnedly on several topics of history and antiquity, thus help-
ing our digestion with a variety of philosophical and literary
After our repast
remarks.
we walked
out to admire
and
wander over the superb ruins of an ancient Roman coloseum,

which was
We
left for
in
an exellent state of preservation.
arrived at Montpelier about dark
and having supped,
Toulouse, by a road leading through one of the most
and
skirting that
embraced between the
parallel spurs
cultivated districts in the South of France,

rich plain of arable land
of the
hills,
crossed these as they extended their projections
from the Pyrenees.
I was quite pleased with the situation of
90
Toulouse, as
with
its
lay stretched over both sides of the Garonne,
it
and charming promenades
excellently planned gardens
along the banks of the river.
Among
the passengers which the interior of the diligence
took at Toulouse, were the wife of an English horse-jockey, a
who took
Spanish merchant, and an emigrant
my young
especial care of
Spanish companion, under the plea that she was
un paisano, a compatriot
delightful ride
of the
from Toulouse, but saw
road until we arrived at the town of

having dined to our
satisfaction,
We
same province.
we
of interest on the
little
Auch
had a
for dinner.
Here,
started out from the hotel,
in spite of the remonstrance of the conductor,
who
threatened
to leave without us, in order to visit the celebrated cathedral
of this town, and, as the ladies were with us,
attempt to
w ell knowing
r
start,
that
we dared him
we had
tickets
for
to
through passage, and that he would not venture to arrive with
an empty
stage.
more agreeable,
fellow-passengers,
we
From this point the journey became much

for we became better acquainted with our
and the face of the country through which
passed wore a more undulatory aspect, while the view was
relieved
by occasional glimpses over the
outlines of the remote
Pyrenees.
At Pau we were
obliged to separate from our English and
Spanish companions, and having taken leave of them, I had no

resource but to visit the famous old chateau of Henri Quatre,
wherein, at that moment, Abdel Kader, the African chieftain,
was imprisoned.
This old castle seemed a glorious remnant
of the feudal ages, and

glories, to
it
appeared
like
a revival of
have a barbarian chief placed within
The Arab, Abdel Kader, deserved a

of his captors
Roman would
its
its
former
strongholds.
better fate at the hands
have crowned the warrior
EAUX B0XXES.
and
who had
patriot,
91
fought so nobly for his country and his
home.
Being quite tired of Pau, and of
its
English residents and
Eaux Bonnes,
gardens, I sought relief at the waters of the
The
the Pyrenees.
delightful,
ride out to this watering-place
reminding
me somewhat
was
in
truly
of the valleys in the lower
cantons of Switzerland, for the baths are beautifully situated at
down upon them

On our approach we were met by a
the foot of the Pyrenees, which almost looked
from their giddy heights.
company
of pretty blanchisseuses,
who
solicited
our washing at
the most reasonable terms, these escorted our coach to the
which we lodged, and there having
vicinity of the hotel at

us,
left
with their usual French courtesy departed, but not without
first
having
left
a card upon which were printed the terms of a
washing at " prix fixe."

arrival
and
fell
I went immediately to bed after our
into a profound sleep
which lasted
until seven
o'clock in the evening, from which, having awakened, I arose
and ordered a
The
"
fresh
bed
Eaux Bonnes
for the
" to me,
remainder of the night.
who was not an
to be the most stupid place that I
had ever
invalid,
seen.
It
proved
may be
pleasant enough for invalids, but to me, in spite of the grounds
which were
prettily laid out, there
a walk among the
hills,
or a stroll
was nothing of
by the
interest, save
side of the
rills,
that
furnished waters for the bathers.
They have happily been named the
"
French Switzerlands "
from their picturesque and much frequented

characteristic features of the Pyrenees
situation, for the
at this point
on the
border of France and Spain are exceedingly bold and romantic.
We returned to
On
Pau
Pau, on the afternoon of the second day.
the following morning, at
to Bayonne,
by a road
far
five,
I took the diligence from
more picturesque than that of
92
yesterday leading to the baths, and becoming

esting, as it
we
more
inter-
approached Bayonne, the situation of which was
The town
truly charming.
as
still
itself
women had
entered, the
all
wore a
lively
and gay aspect
the manners and grace of the
Parisian, wearing thin kerchiefs on the
back of the head so as
to contrast richly with the folds of their well arranged suits of
A dour separates the Jews'
The bridge over the
hair.
Bayonne, the Basque, Bay-o-na,
other quarters of the town.

" the
good port"
citadel, fortified
is
from the
placed on the Nive and Adour.
by Yauban, was the key
The strong
of Soult's position in
1814, and the scene of one of the last most murderous and
unnecessary conflicts between the French and English.

the bayonet finished the work, and on the spot where
first
used by some Basques,
muskets' muzzles
now
who
Here
it
was
stuck their knives in their
the English weapon, which no foe
it is
has ever dared to face twice.
In the old castle of Bayonne opposite the Prefecture, in 1563,

did Catherine de Medicis, an Italian Machaivelli, meet Alva, a
man
Spanish
St.
of blood
and bigotry, and planned the massacre of
Bartholomew, which was executed August 24, 1572, to the
joy of the Vatican and the Escorial, for Philip II. never
laughed heartily but that once.
The cathedral
seilles to
is
Bayonne
well worthy of notice.
Thus from Marwas transferred by coach, from the Medi-
The
terranean to the Atlantic.
bosom
of a
rich valley,
situation of
Bayonne on the
surrounded by the spurs
.of
young
mountains, was pre-eminently lovely.

B
In company with some

visited the sea baths of
a ri t
Frenchmen from Champagne, I

Biaritz.
It was a glorious feeling to
93
SEA BATHING.
plunge into the ocean at this point of the
What
thrill
of joy
Bay
of Biscay.
came over me, and what a crowd
pleasant thoughts rushed into
my
of
brain, as I dipped into the
waves of these same waters which were washing the shores and
rock-bound coasts of
my own
moments have a power
native
home
in
to rouse the fires of the soul,
kindred thoughts are awakened, and the heart's

vibrate through the
From
the
medium
cliff-built
new land and
finest
when
chords
of the elements.
Phare of the
bound coast of hard Iberia looms

of a
Such
America!
Biaritz, the rocky, iron-
in view.
people, relieves the
This
first
glance
monotony of the com-
Now, what
who love surprises and comparisons. It
new planet, or like crossing from Dover to
mon-place Landes, which extends to Bourdeaux.
a change awaits those

is
the passing into a
Calais,
both so near, indeed, to France, and yet so widely,
so irrevocably apart from antipathetic
At
Bidart the Basque country
is
French ways and
entered,
things.
and the peasantry
are at least cognate with those on each side of the Bidasoa,
but
their's is
a neutral ground, and they are Basques
neither French nor Spaniards.
that
is,
94
SPAIN.
"QUI EN DICE ESPA&A,
A wooden
side, crosses
DICE
D 0."
bridge, painted with a dingy red, on the
French
the Bidasoa, which flows like the British Channel,
between these two antagonistical nations.

This river, once crossed, the
will scarcely inspire the
and
tal
mind with
their wild, racy, original
quaintance, and the
first
more
as
sight
and welcome of Spain
love; but the noble people,
country, improve on better ac-
we advance
into the sunny orien-
East and South.
Now, you have
quitted France and French things,
around
all
breathes ajo y Espanolismo, mules and mantillas; and however
Man
lacking in surface and sensual civilization,
vigorous plant of a strong
soil;
is
here the
here he stands erect,
full
of
personal dignity and individual worth and independence; the
members, indeed, are strong in masculine
virility
and
vitality,
Yet the Spanish people are still

Austrian and Bourbon, who have failed to
although a head be wanting.

unbroken, despite of
dwarf
their high spirit
valor,
and
unworthy
We
and character, and
intelligence, to
rulers in church,
sacrifice their
worth,
advance the personal intrigues of

camp, and cabinet.
had taken the diligence at Bayonne, and our drive
as far
as the frontier was extremely agreeable, with occasional glimpses
of the sea on one hand, and views of the distant Pyrenees on
A MULE TEAM.
At
the other.
Irun, the
ously in front on its
hill,
first
95
Spanish town, rising conspicu-
we changed both
the character of our
journey, and the animals attached to the vehicle.
While the annoyance
was attended
of passports
baggage examined, I was curiously engaged
manner
of tackling our
in
team of mules.
first
we were
watching the
Eight of these
beasts were harnessed in the places of the horses
thus again clearly indicating that
and the
to,
we
left
in Spain.
behind;
The
lug-
gage having been weighed and sealed to Madrid, we took a

glance at the village of Irun, with
groined roofs, and Spanish signs

of the nation
we
and
its
projecting balconies,
so peculiarly characteristic
perceiving that
all
was ready
for a start,
The
entered the coupe and then shut to the door.
mules having been properly hitched

his horse, the calesero
who then
his seat
the postillion mounted
by the
side of the majoral,
a loud voice started the stage
in
team running at
calesero
took
to,
jumping
speed.
fall
draft
the whole
off,
In the middle of
this gallop, the
the box, ran along the road, and halloo-
off
ing at the top of his voice, goaded the jacks, while he repeatedly yelled at the leader, and bawling out lustily, shouted
"Arrah!
oa
arre
anda caballo
anda colonella
and carean
hill, like
oa
pirara.
"
cacletta
hoah
!
generate! carrajo
and
ah
whoop, angelo de dios
Wildly the whole troop rushed up the
a beggar on horseback bound to the
ously did the beasts
mount the
So
devil.
steep that the rocking
furi-
and
cracking coach dashed and tossed us about like a churn, for
they rolled up the diligence with such a thundering

the racket on the road
woke up a
rattle,
fat old citizen
that
who was
quietly taking his siesta on the balcony of his house.
At
the
same rapid and excitable
rate,
we were
through the extent of the Basque provinces.
driven
This curious
9G
people, possessing a peculiar
manner and
industrious race of mountaineers
a hardy and
quite independent of the
and, in fact, are the true republicans of the north.
Castiles,
We
are
dialect
were struck with the rich verdure of the well-cultivated
hill-sides,
and remarked the great abundance of the in-gathering
The neat appearance
harvest.
of the
shelving roofs, and happy peasantry
with high,
cottages,
inhabiting them, often
reminded us of Switzerland.
We
had not proceeded much
singular district called the
"
farther before
we reached
Pasages" where the sea enters
within the narrow bounds of the adjoining
so narrowly as
hills,
Behind these
scarcely to admit the hull of a single vessel.

straits lies
this
Our
that
a deep, land-locked bay, one of the best harbors on
rock-bound coast, but when once within, ships ride

road, passing at
first
by the
safely.
sides of the mountains, at
length crossed the lagoon, enabling us to obtain a magnificent
view of the
hills
sloping coast.
and valleys that adorn the
outlines of this
Saint Sebastian also enjoys a similarity of posi-
tion in the gift of its natural harbor.
This town was formerly
the depot of the Phillipine and India Companies.
main land
to be separated from the
to
it
by the draw-bridge of
Mantillas were
It appeared
in fact, being only united
its castle.
observed at this place, where the cos-
first
tumes of the peasant began to attract our
notice,
and the
maidens who wore their pretty straw-hats, suffered their long,

twisted braids of
hah
to fall
over their shoulders, secured
by long streamers of ribbons in beau-knots.

here
assumed
black cockades
beasts,
wood.
had
their
;
The
postillions
low-crowned, velvet hats, trimmed with
and the
their wheels
ox-carts,
made
borne along by tasseled
of tires
and cross-braces
Besides what funny hats the curates wear,
of
having
QUEER HATS.
97
the semblance of a stove-funnel with a hole for the head, or,
perhaps, more like one of our patent
The
latter part of the
Yankee smoke-curers.
road to Tolosa
a charming pastoral,
is
among the
Swiss-like ride, especially the last four or five miles
The
wild woods, and long-leaved chestnuts.
hills,
Tolosa on the banks of the Urola
women have
We
is
situation of
quite picturesque
and her
magnificently fine eyes, opening like almonds.
wake up and
find ourselves crossing the Sierra,
drawn
by eight oxen, with the sound of our muleteer's voice hallooing

and screaming, while urging the beasts up the mountain.
What
a picture of wildness was there presented in the solitude
of the dark hour while passing over the Pyrenees, mountains
of less ruggedness, and better cultivated than the Appenines.
About
four o'clock in the morning
we
passed through the
walled town of Mandragon, well placed on the banks of the

beautiful Deva, while the
moon
stream with gushes of brilliant
we
crossed the Welsh-like
hills
flooded
light.
its
surface
and the
Before reaching Yittoria
of this region, with green copses,
maize crops, and pretty villages perched on the eminences, amid
Here the
chestnut groves.
place to the low, blue cap, or
are
Irish-looking hat of Castile gives

hereto,.
The
legs of the peasants
swathed up to the knees with Moorish bandages, and
their feet encased in Iberian brogues.
hard
tasks,
and look old and broken.
The women
The
toil at their
architect will
now
remark the pepper-pot belfrey-domes of the churches, the carved

coats-of-arms over the portals of the family mansions, and the
solidly-built houses,
roofs.
Here
rain
with projecting cornices and protecting
and damp are the enemies of the
while stone and iron are the drugs of the
At
Yittoria,
soil.
a busy and flourishing post town,
12,000 inhabitants, placed on a gentle eminence above

5
climate,
of about
its plain,
98
we
dismissed our
One could not
first postillion.
the wonderful hardihood of this youth,
fail
who had
remarking
ridden for a
continuous period of twenty-four hours with scarcely any relief
but the time afforded in changing the horses at the relays.

This town offers a novel contrast in the old and
the former with
its
curious plaza,
dark tortuous
its
directly opposite to the latter which
streets,
and
line
is all
new portions
being
The
rule.
public alemedas are charming places of resort for the people,

outside the town, where under the leafy avenues of la Florida
and
el
Prado the lower
classes
meet and dance
the capital of Alava,
Yittoria,
which
Basque Provinces reminded us of the
in the afternoon.
the last of the
is
origin of the Basque,
and
led to the consultation of a work, in order to describe the

peculiar characteristics of this people.
THE BASQUE PROVINCES.

Las Provincias Yascongadas
consist of the three united pro-
vinces of Alava, Yiscaoa, and Guipuscoa.
These provinces form-
ing the mountainous triangle of the northwest of the Peninsula, are the
Cantabria of the ancients, a name derived by some
from Kent-Aber, which they interpret the
Water."
" Corner
This corner of the land, like Wales,
the remnant of the
aboriginal inhabitants,
is
the
of the
home
of
who never have
been expelled or subdued; thus the character of an unadulterated primitive race remains strongly marked in language and
nationality.
tains,
selves,
and
The
Highlanders,
and nursed amid storms
bred on metal-pregnant mounin
a cradle indomitable as them-
have always known how to forge their iron into arms,
to wield
them
in defence of their
sword equals that one which
is
independence; and what
moulded from the plough-share
UNION
A sense of
99
separate weakness has taught these provinces the
This federal association
secret of union.
symbol of three
national
STRENGTH.
IS
Bat" which is equivalent to the

Bath order of the united kingdom.
Universal nobility
is
expressed in their
hands joined together, with the
" Irurac
the
is
tria juncta in uno, of
the birth-right of every Basque peasant.
Peppery as the Welsh, proud as Lucifer, and combustible

matches, these pauper peers
up when
fire
Don
their pedigree
as
is
(I. 8) know how to

"
annoy a Biscayan, by telling him that he was no gentleman."
questioned, and well did
Basque
Quixote^
gentility often consists rather in blood than
better born than bred, the Cantabrian
nor ever quick
in,
not always courteous
is
whom
rendering honor to
manners
honor
is
due; he
considers a sort of boorishhess to indicate a republican inde-
pendence, and thinks the deference which one well conditioned
person pays to another to be a degradation to his noble birthright
their provinces
may be
the natives sacrifice but
little
the three Graces of Spain, but
to those amiable types.
The modern Basques, however brave and

form very bad regular
duals,
to
tolerate
drill
managed by one
and
soldiers, as
discipline
of themselves.
active as indivi-
they are too obstinate
again they can
only be
Gonzalo de Cordova affirmed
that he would sooner be a keeper of wild beasts than the com-
mander
fare,
They are
of the Basques.
commerce,
excellent at Guerrilla war-
etc.
In time of peace, fishing forms the occupation of those who

dwell on the sea-board
inland
agricultural
and pastoral pursuits
the ores of the iron-pregnant
smithies as rude as those of the Iberians.

like,
surrounded with
streams
green
the streets are often
hills
drawn
and
hills
are worked at
The towns are
Swiss-
enlivened by trout
at straight line, intersect-
100
The sombre
ing at right angles; and the alemedas are pretty.
houses are so solidly built that they look
looking balconied
like fortresses,
and here every gentleman's house
indeed his
is
castle.
Agriculture being the

arms,
Adam, who bore
profession of
first
not held to degrade these peasant peers.
is
Simple,
hardy and patient, they have the virtues and vices of high-
and
landers,
feeling strongly attached to their
love their rocks
mountain home,
and Alps, and are wretched when torn from
These provinces are made up of mountain and
them.
with a sea-board
The
line.
oak and chestnut
elevated slopes are covered with
and the produce of the country
trees,
valley,
is
corn,
apples and wine.
Shortly after leaving Yittoria,
we
the province of Alava,
left
the last of the Basque territory, on the other side of the Ebro.
This river
becomes
passed at Miranda by a
is
less
diminishes,
fair,
fountains
less
The square tower
there.
open
The town
belfry.
placed the custom-house
The Ebro
Castile.
abundant,
and the towns have no more
them; the face of the peasant
is
is
fine
trees
utterly
offices,
population
the
and gardens near
sterner, for poverty is still
of the churches
is
Nature
bridge.
as this
is
changed
uninteresting;
is
the
for the
here are
fiscal frontier
of
the geographical and vegetable line of
demarcation between the Basque provinces and the Castiles.
What
a contrast was here presented between the smiling
aspect of the one, and the gloomy,
sterile,
and harsh nature of
the other.
In fact
all
Spain
is
a conglomerate of strong contrasts, and
of divers people and manners, differing, in
the aspect of
tants.
its
all its parts,
nature and the character of
Its provinces are held together
its soil
both in
and inhabi-
more by the community
CHATEAUX EN ESPAGNE.
of speech, than
101
by the sovereign head, and
is
suffered to live
out their half normal existence by the consent of the other
Hence, Spain has ever been, and
continental nations.
will
continue to be, the prey of foreigners and the land of guerrillas.
THE CA STILES.
How
the aspect of the two Castiles, these
also,
different,
empire provinces, which join each other, and constitute a large

portion
plateau of Spain, of which they are
of the central
truly the
citadel :"
El
corazon y
coro,
composed
Castilla,
the choir, " heart and
chiefly of tertiary formation, they rise at
average about 2,000 feet above the
an
sea.
Here, we were, then, in Castile proper,
the
New
Castile,
This "canting" name of Castilla was taken

y fmlP
from the number of the fortresses erected on the frontier of
"viejo
Leon and the
Asturias, whence the
Moors
called
the province
Ardo-1-Kaloa r " the Land of the Castles," and also Kashtellah.
These primitive castles were no unsubstantial Chateaux en Es~

pagne, but solid, real defences, and held by brave men, and built
in imitation of
Roman
citadels, the noble
masonry being quite
unlike the Oriental tapia of the Moorish Alcazares of the South.
The two
Castiles are the largest provinces in Spain,
contain some of the oldest and most interesting
cities.
and
The
mountains are highly picturesque, abounding in curious botany
and geology, and
their Swiss-like valleys are
streams; they present

tierras de
campo y
treeless, songless,
looking as
if
a perfect contrast to the parameras,
secanos, the plains
lonely, tiresome steppes,
watered by trout
and
table-lands,
which are
bounded only by the horizon,
and without hedges,
silent,
enclosures, or landmarks,
belonging to no one, and not worth possessing.
102
The
Castilians have a singular antipathy to
seldom plant any, except those which bear
they
Orientals,
fruit or give
and, like
trees,
They imagine that the
shade for their alaniedas.
branches harbor birds which eat up corn.

Shade,
and timber
fuel,
for domestic purposes are in conse-
quence dear at Madrid, an
"Water
is
evil
daily
is
everything
man
is
are alike dusty and tawny
brown, his house, his jacket, his stew, his wife,
his ass.
The
plains,
the world.
however, are some of the
finest
The Chamorro and the Candeal
wheat
twenty
more than
varieties.
The
Castilian
good man and
is
muyhorado y hombre
true; but he
is
what the French

sincere;
call prevenant,
his
manner
de lien, vir bonus, a
well-bred rather than polite, and
make
inclined to receive rather than to
is
districts in
are the best and
usual sorts of grain, of which, however, there are
he
increasing.
very scarce, not only for irrigation, but even for
domestic uses, and nature and
and
which
is
advances, being seldom
but then, when once attached,
marked by a most
practical
equality; for all feel equal to the proudest noble through their
common
Treat them, however,
birthright of being Castilians.
as they expect to be treated,
of words,
all this
and
all this
nicety of sitting
ceremony of form and
down and
getting up, will
not be found to extend to deeds.
The
are
Castilians,
still
from their male and trustworthy character,
Robur Hispaniae
(Flor.
ii.
11, 9,) the virility, vitality,
and heart of the nation, and the sound

be reconstructed.
genuine one
is
stuff of
which
true to his
it
has to
God and
king,
his religion running often into bigotry, his loyalty into subser-
viency;
he hates foreign dictation, clings to the ways of his
ancestors, thinks Spain
the
first
kingdom
in the world,
the
PURE CASTILIAX.
and himself the
Castiles its first provinces,
No
tion.
10
first
its
popula-
wonder, therefore, that these peasants, as Addison
manure with an
said of those in the Georgics, toss about even

air of dignity; this
more than of
inferior to
of
the result also of natural instinct even
is
social conventions, since each, esteeming himself
none but the king, cares
Nor
rank and fortune.
little for
the accidents of
does poverty, the great crime never to
be pardoned in England, unless
be very grinding, here unfit a
it
person for society, Pobreza no
vileza ; nor does it destroy
es
personal respectability and independence; indeed, where
the
majority are poor, the not being rich does not degrade, and an
innate gentility of race, which nothing can take away, renders
them
indifferent to the
and proud even
The
changes and chances of
fickle prosperity,
in rags.
Castilian, in particular, claims to
be synonymous with the
name
to the kingdom, nation,
Spaniard
in general,
and gives
grand pretension
and language; and
his
Castellano viejo
rancio,
his
and
is
spotless, sin
to be an old one,
mancha
that
is,
uncontaminated with the black blood of new converts from
Moor
or Jew.
While engaged
Castiles
and the
in transcribing the
Castilians,
my
above epitome of the
thoughts naturally reverted to
the strange scene then presented from our position near the
bridge over the Ebro, where the wild torrent was rushing fearfully
under the
piers,
and the novel features of
threw a mournful cast over our
Such a ragged
ruins, in
this region
reflections.
set of beggars, miserable villagers
and
fallen
keeping with the poverty of the country, forced our
attention to the present condition of the land, in melancholy
contrast with the
pomp and
glory of the ancient
the magnificent reign of Ferdinand and Isabel.
kingdom under
104
Throughout the whole route of
day the face of nature
this
presented a dull and dreary aspect, mountain succeeded the
monotonous waste of land where cultivation ceased, and nothing
we reached
of interest relieved the path until
the picturesque
pass of Pancorbo, between the defiles of the mountains of
and the Pyrenees
spurs,
where the
river Oroncillo
Oca
and the road
have scarcely room to thread the shadowy, narrow gorge, in

the middle of which
our Holy
Lady who
from avalanches,
hem
a chapel to Nuestra Sefiora del Camino,
is
superintends the way, and protects travelers
around
for all
in this natural
fantastic rocks,
arise
portal and barrier of Castile, in which
the old Spaniards defied the Moorish advance, and the
ones ran
away
view of the Rioja
the ill-omened
What
in it
Cava : ay !
de
Roderick
is
which commanded a
said to have seduced
Espana perdida
we
They appeared
they were caricaturing their
in such
own
jper
un gusto.
dili-
a variety of rags,
parts and professions.
Their coats and pantaloons were not only of

Joseph's,
of Buonaparte.
" stopped" at any of the relay-houses in order
to change our mules.

if
castle,
modern
a host of beggars rushed up to the sides of our
gence when
as
name
frightened even at the
Above, to the west, was a ruined

fine
which
many
but made of ten thousand patches
to bury completely their original identity,
colors, like
so covered as
and the often-mended
stocking, caused one to doubt whether they
had ever possessed
even a consciousness of their originality.
BURGOS.
Towards evening we came
in sight of the noble steeple of the
Cathedral of Burgos, rising with
and
clustering
filagree
its
pinnacles.
superb pile of florid Gothic,
Soon
after
entering
the
105
FEAST-TREACHERY.
town we hurried across the main square,
in order to visit the
superb cathedral, which was considered by Kapoleon to be
The mind
Spain's greatest jewel.
naturally recurred to the
period of the ancient greatness of this kingdom,
was the
when Burgos
I shall never forget the aspect of
seat of kings.
cathedral on our approach, as the last rays
_of
its
sunset blazed
through the two towers, and illuminated the crowning spires

of the most delicate stone-work, which looked like so
The various chapels
lace.
spection,
from being
The grandest
glass.
of
full
is
much
of this cathedral deserve close in-
good
and painted
sculpture, tombs,
that del Condestable, which was erected
as the burial place of the Yelasco family, the hereditory con-
Gothic
stables of Castile.
Its rich florid
some churches, and
as admirable inside
nacles, or agujas,
the spires.
The
form a charming
cajpilla is
and outside as
cluster,
engrailed edges of the archway form a rich
frame, under which the light, simple,
chapel
seen,
fine
its pin-
and correspond with
lace-like
is
as large as
with
its
and cheerful
tombs and heraldic decorations.
tombs were sculptured
in Italy
These
the costumes, armour,
lace-work, and details deserve a study.
Burgos, a
all
name connected by some with the
events means a " fortified eminence," and
Borough, Bury,
etc.
to the kings of Leon,
It
was
Iberian Briga, at
is
akin, to
at first subject in
when Fruela
II.,
citizens of
At
them
in-
to death.
Burgos thereupon elected judges to govern them.
The most celebrated

Lain
some degree to
about the year 926,
vited the chief rulers to a feast and then put
The
Burgh,
of these magistrates were
Calvo, and others
who
Nuno Rasura,
figure in old historical ballads.
length Fernan Gonzalez shook off the yoke of Leon, and in
him the
title
of " Conde de Castillo,"
"Count" was then
became hereditary, and a
equivalent to an
independent sovereign.
106
among
Thus, as
the Jews, the age of the law preceded the age
His granddaughter
of the monarchy.
Mayor
in
of Navarre,
whose
Nuna
Ferdinand
son,
I.
married Sancho
el
of Castile, united
1067 the kingdoms of Leon and Castile by marrying Sancha,

daughter of Bermudo III.
sole
When
Alonso VI., in 1085, raised Toledo to the rank of
capital, disputes of
directed Burgos to speak
would speak
1349 by Alonso XI.,
first in
Cortes, saying that he
their court
The kings
for Toledo.
damp, and
still
city,
also Castellanos rancios yviejos
support arises from the
who know
Burgos
is
venerable-looking,
traffic
Stilton
men and
which
is
the epoch of
its
it
are
Its chief
true.
of travelers going to Madrid.

is
very
much renowned
and Parmesan
theirs.
for the first time
ruin, the
in Spain,
will think it better
suited to hungry Sancho Panza's taste than to
The French entered Burgos
of a
it,
and those who dwell in
good
Its cheese, the queso de Burgos,

those,
prosperity,
with a marked character about
cold,
genuine old Gothic Castilian
but
its
The population has decayed
which the invasion completed.
dull,
by removing
of Castile,
from Burgos, cut away the sources of
from 50,000 to 12,000; but
its
in
which were only compromised
rival,
who
precedence arose between Burgos and
Nov.
10, 1808,
whole Spanish army under
Belveder, having turned and fled at the opening charge of the

invaders,
who
did not lose
fifty
men.
The
unresisting city
was
then sacked by Bessieres, a la Rioseco; here, however, he was

only the agent of Buonaparte in person,
early example of terror, to intimidate
His views were so perfectly carried

prudent
to lament,
" horrors which

spoken
in
all
out,
who
wished, by an
future
resistance.
that he thought
it
a bulletin to be read at Paris, the
made him shudder," but which one
by him on the spot would have prevented.
little
word
SPUR OF A COCK.
Burgos
shaped
is
in
an irregular semi-circle with large por-
tions of the old walls remaining
gate de Santa
turrets
101
Maria
on the river
The grand
front.
massy, strengthened with bartizan
is
and battlemented, and her image crowns the
pile.
Charles V. added the statues of Burgalese worthies, which are
grouped in niches around
Fernan Gonzalez,
The
river
the
own, to wit,
his
Xuno
Cid,
Don Diego
Alanzon flows through planted walks to the
where the French
built
The
river flows
down
out by the Marquis de Villena.
work of an
to the Vega, while higher
the Espolon or Esplanada, which, with
its
The heavy
old book,
were
"the angle
and contrast with the
dark irregular lanes behind, and the gloomy

sions in the Calle Alta,
I.,
broken, encase the ancient town
is
new binding does an
Fernan
statues of
of houses on the Esjpolon, " the spur of a cock," or
like a
i3
The white regular modern row
placed there by Charles III.
by which water
up
gardens, was laid
Gonzalez, Alonso III., Henrique III, and Ferdinand
of a pier "
Isla,
a stone bridge, which the patriotic
natives destroyed after the evacuation, because the
enemy.
Porcelos,
Rasura, and Lain Calvo.
half-fortress
man-
San Lorenzo, Avellanos, San Juan, and
older quarters.
Every one should devote a day to a pilgrimage to Miraflores,

and the tomb of the Cid. One word on the Cid, now we stand
Rodrigo Ruy Diaz of Yibar, where he was
near his grave.
born in 1026,
is
the Prince, the
Champion
Campcador, the hero of Gotho-Spanish epos
of Spain,
his
Thus, in the
Achilles,
'
Poema
del Cid,
Cid
boast was to
be a Castilian " to the back-bone," Castellano a

7
el
las derechas.
written in the twelfth century,
even then, was spoken of with pride and
affection,
being already like Nelson, the property of his whole nation,

rnio Cid,
my
Cid.
"
He who
was born
in
a good
its
el
"he
hour,"
108
who
an auspicious moment girded on sword;" and he
in
himself to be the honor of his country, " Soy

de
Espana," which he
is
of his
life
have been handed down
Spanish and Moorish writers
in
an unbroken
el
Sabio, in the thirteenth century, speaks of
hero of
many
series of
him
Conde and Gayangos
early ballads, while
The type
abounds
of the Cid
in parallel chiefs
who
is
Oriental,
in dates
and
and Biblical history
And
as the latter
secuted by Saul, so the Cid was by Alonzo
compelled to carve out their fortunes with

;
find the
raised themselves to power; such
were Jephthah, Rezin, David, etc.
sword
Alonso
as already the
Arabic authors tallying exactly with the Spanish

facts.
Cid, Honra,
el
always ready to prove by his good
The leading events
sword.
feels
was
per-
and both were
their
own good
and in Spain has a Sertorius, a Hafssun, a Cid, wanted
gallant followers.
So
and other leaders of
in our times the
guerillas or "
little
Minas, Zumalacarreguis,
wars"
in
which Spani-
ards shine the best, have enacted deeds which only require the
distance of centuries to appear almost equally fabulous.
Nie-
buhr, the decided sceptic of old history, considers the Cid to be
a real character, and
cites his ballad
memoirs, as early instances
of records based on truth, yet hovering on the verge of fabulous
Masdeu, however, thought
times.
from a pique and
tence,
and Risco,
ham,
to doubt his very exis-
spirit of opposition against
his rival antiquarians
in Dr.
fit
and
Florence
in our times Dr.
Dun-
Lardner's cyclopedia compilation, has repeated
these Patranas.
The
Cid, out of favor at court,
sources, assembled
and thrown on
his
own
re-
an army of bold adventurers, and captured
Yalencia, where he ruled on his
own
account, and died in 1099.
His body was then brought to Cardefia, mounted on Babieca,

and was placed armed on a throne, with Tizona, " the sparkling
109
HIGHEST POINT IN SPAIN.
brand
" in his hand,
with which, according to legends, he soon
knocked down a Jew, whose valor plucked the dead
Ximena,
the beard.
his
widow, in order to keep him
The
had him then put under ground.

raised in 12*72,
lion
by Alonso
el
Sabio,
still
existing
by
quiet,
tomb was
who composed
the
now
scarcely legible epitaph

Belliger, invictus, famosus
marte triumphis,
Clauditur hoc tumulo magnus Didaci Rodericus.
ARANDA,
On
the next
morning
after
Aravida, on the Duero, amid
vineyards, and
its
we reached
leaving Burgos
its
overhanging and balconied houses, having crossed
Now
fringed river by a good bridge.
monument placed on the
the two Castiles.
this poplar-
ascending into a hideous
country, but rich, however, in corn and wine,
top of the
picturesque,
we
attained the
dorsal ridge which divides
This pass, or puerto, over the Somo-sierra
the natural gate and defence of Madrid.
is
Dreary then becomes
the face of nature at this height, displaying the loftiest point

of land in Spain, where a fountain of limpid water, gushing
through a
parched
soil
lips.
of a ferruginous nature, bore refreshment to our
To-day we acquired some knowledge of the pecu-
liar table-lands of this country,
and from Somo-sierra the road,
by alternate stages of ascent and

rid.
By
descent, inclined towards
Mad-
a series of plateaux or steppes, vast plains extend at the
base of these mountains, from whose tops you catch magnificent

views over the undulating surfaces of the plain which run at
their feet.
At
one time the land
is
indented with rugged
mountains, wearing an aspect of primeval grandeur; at another
it
flows with undulation
like those
of a
sea,
or again
110
formations.
Occasionally a miserable village dots the plain,
but the general aspect
dreary and desolate beyond descrip-
is
The wilderness seems
tion.
have stretched
to
wastes even to the walls of the capital.

terrific
It
is
quartz
silver in the
abounds with indications of the presence of
green, as a color,
and water, as a
The
its
rugged
heat, in summer,
were
liquid,
is
curiosities.
just the place to send a patient afflicted with the hydro-
However, at Lozoyuela, where the spurs of the
phobia.
Somosierra and range commence, the climate

peasants,
now few and
poor,
the
cooler;
is
clad in pano pardo, their
are
waistcoats are cut open at the chest, and they wear montegas,
as in
La
Mancha,
their
bodices, laced in front;
women, on
and
holidays, put on picturesque
swathed up
their children are
like
mummies.
St.
its
among
Augustin, although
the last stages to a city which
towns-folk consider to be the
Civitas Dei of the ancient father,
first
stage to heaven,
whose name
it
bears.
is
no
This
wretched place has never recovered from the illusage of the
French
after Dupont's defeat at Bailen.
road to Burgos was
The whole
then ravaged; " harvests of
eaten up, and the fenced
cities
line of
wheat were
impoverished;" nothing escaped
them, for they robbed even beggars, and those Spanish beggars.
Every approach to the

rounds the
mud
capital
is
barren, and the desert sur-
walls of the city, where
"lone mother of dead lands," empress of
Madrid
Spain,
all
like the isolated heart of
a funereal urn, but
lauded by every Castilian
Porque
leal and,
que hay que un Madrid.
sleep, the dislocating ruts permitting,
es
sits
still
the
somewhat
praised and
Castellafta
Happy
as the
y viega y
man who can
from Burgos to Madrid.
CITY OF PARADISE.
Ill
MADRID.
Madrid, according to the Spanish
Book
of 1845,
more ancient
in its origin
In 1582, when
than Rome.
described by
is
Guia, or Guide
official
and a nobler
surrounded by
forests,
royal hunting residence.
may have
Civilization
it
is
it
Argote, as " buen monte de puerco y oso" a
cover for boars and bears, on account of which
city
good
was made a
advanced, under
the reign of the gouty and phlegmatic Charles V., but the gross
mistake of a position which has no single advantage, except

the fancied geographical merit of being in the centre of Spain,
his
Had
never be corrected.
will
Phillip II. availed himself of
opportunity of making his capital at Lisbon,
Portugal
never would have revolted, or the Peninsula been thus

severed,
by which the
first
Thus to Madrid, and
germ
its
blow was dealt to Spain's greatness.

monkish
city's arm-shield,
and the
the Escurial,
The boars
still
is
the
linger
and the peasant boor of the provinces,
fiscanciers of the capital, still indicate the presence of
the original "boars and bears" of
The town
river
ulcer,
of her present decay to be traced.
on the
dis-
is
built
its
infant state.
on several mangy
hills
that hang over the
Manzanares:
" Quien no ha
No ha
visto
visto
Madrid,
un maravid."
The towns-people think Madrid "the envy and admiration"

of mankind; they talk of
it
as the capital of Spain,
world, for Quien dice Espafia dice todo.
Madrid,
No
hay sino un Madrid; unique,
the only court on earth,
solo
Madrid
There
is
i.
e.
the
but one
like the phoenix, it is
es carte.
Wherever
it
is
112
mentioned the world

el
mundo.
There
is
is
are no country seats in the vicinity,
la Gloria,
The reason why there

seriously accounted for,
is
because no sane person could ever be found to quit this
The
of supernatural enjoyment even for one day.
punishments to the grandees,
from
estates
calk
a window for angels to look down
is
counterpart of heaven on earth.
this
Madrid
est a
but one stage from Madrid to
or Paradise, in which there
on
with awe, Donde
silent
is
home
greatest of
to be banished to their distant
This term conveys to Spanish ears, a
la Corte.
meaning which cannot be translated
in English.
It
is
like
La
Cour de Louis XIY., the residence of the Sultan, the dispenser

of rank and fortune;
trigues,
titles,
it
the centre of
is
decorations,
empefios, jobs, in-
and plunder, to which
vulture tribe of place-hunters, and pretendientes,
maggots
sun, breed like
was
who under
in carrion; yet, as a court it
is,
at all times, a poor representation of real grandeur.
up
desert comes
the
this
and
The
to the ignoble mud-walls, the mesones are inns
for beasts, the peasant

is
flock
who
scratches the fields beyond them,
a barbarian, while inside
live
the worst populacho of the
Peninsula.
Madrid
not even a city or Ciudad, but only the chief of
is
It has no cathedral, no bishop
villas.
of conical, blue, Flemish-looking spires.

titles
the abbreviations of
by letterLa M.
La muy
which
signify
villa
corte de
Charles
vile
II.,
M. L.
1ST.
I.
C. y
nolle, leal,
Madrid.
It has
M. H.
Built chiefly
fine
y Corte de M.,
villa
by Philips
foreigner,
Churrigueresque and Rococo of Louis
The
no lack of
Imperial coronada, y
and perfected under the
to greater excesses.
with a cluster
it rises
are usually thus expressed
style
its
may hercica
III. IV.,
and
nowhere has the
XIY.
been carried
churches, whitened sepulchres, are sad
specimens of an insatiable greediness for tinsel
Charles III.,
LACK OF HOSPITALITY.
who wished
worked
be the Augustus of Madrid, unfortunately-
to
The
in brick.
on
families live
common
113
houses are
best
"oak," in which there
is
and
different
having the staircase in
different floors or flats,
each apartment
lofty,
protected by a solid door, an
generally a small wicket, from which
is
the suspicious inmates inspect visitors before they let them
The
according to our notions, are uncomfortable and
interiors,
unfurnished
in.
the kitchen,
offices,
and other necessaries are on
the most continental scale.
Our extended dinner
society
is
all
but unknown, except in
the houses of the diplomatic corps, and some few of the nobles,
The grandees
dine, indeed, with the foreign ministers,
little
reciprocity
dom
offer in
return even a glass of water
consists in dining with
Few
any foreigner who
foreigners enjoy
unsocial,
modern Rome, they
like the JPrincipes of
much
insalubrious city
ever hope for
much
will
their hospitality
ask them.
nor can foreign plenipotentiaries
satisfactory dealing with a stiff-necked,

its
real power, a position which, like that of
gal, is
innate majesty
Turkey or Portu-
almost upheld by the forbearance, protection, or mutual
jealousies of other
and more powerful
The Madrid
countries.
have always behaved cavalierly towards foreign agents.
officials
The Spanish man

for protection in
in office, like the cuttle-fish, surrounds himself
an obfuscation of papers
protocol succeeds to
protocol, expediente to document o, until the minister
both die a natural death from sheer exhaustion.

city in
sel-
health of mind or body in this
unbusiness-like government, that imputes to
and
but with
and matter
Thus, this
is
which a lengthened residence withers mind and body
and well might Gongora exclaim, Este
es
Madrid, mejor dijera
infierno
The aggregate character
of the
mixed population of Madrid,
114
which
about 210,000,
is
is
marked by an assumption
of a
metropolitan and courtier tone of superiority, an aping of the
an affectation of despising provincial towns and
foreigner,
manners, a departure from national costume, and an insincere

frivolity,
the result of the false intrigues which
around on
The females
all sides.
are carried
by no means
are
so attrac-
either morally or physically, as those of Yalencia
tive,
Andalusia; they want also
much
of that natural light-hearted
frankness and absence of art which
charm.
and
is
the Spanish woman's
Like the men, they are more gazm,ona$, or hypocrites;
the populacho, male and female,
is
brutal and corrupted; the
Manolo or Manola, (words which are abbreviations of Manuel

and Manuela) are the Majos y Majas of Madrid, but they are
fast diminishing.
YIL, has been

and movement in the
This court, since the death of Ferdinand
much improved.
streets,
many
There
trifle
more
life
some of which are better cleaned, paved, and lighted;
of the old
names have been changed
patriotic appellations.
spaces,
is
The
for democratic
and
destruction of convents has opened
and new buildings are erecting everywhere.
This has
been aided by the reform of the municipal corporation.
For-
merly the large revenues were either jobbed and robbed among
the members, or wasted in an extensive present to the king;
now
the funds are destined to local improvements.
The
best points for a panoramic view are from the top of the
Santa Gruz church tower, or from the mound of the head of

the
Bum
Retiro gardens.
In shape the town
square with the corners rounded
off.
is
almost a
Avenues of
trees are
planted outside the mud-walls, and in the principal approaches
on the river
side.
Madrid
will
most please those who have
hurried into Spain from France, therefore, the costume, Prado,
115
ORIENTAL TYPES.
and
harm
of novelty
and
strangeness of contrast, which will be wanting to those
who
bull-fight,
with
will strike
arrive from beautiful Yalencia,
A couple
Seville.
May
among
Madrid
" Quien
Quien
There
prising,
still
no
no
be liked
less it will
te sabe
te quiere."
is
this
city.
Much
Moors
it,
can they be found anywhere else
that would otherwise be remarkable or sur-
becomes accountably clear and understood, when
visible
Many
te quiere,
te sabe,
her, nor
adjudged according to
of the
known, the
Generally
however, certain things worthy to be seen in
which are peculiar to

in Europe.
is
the least interesting part of Spain,
all,
are,
the finest in Europe, and the best
and June, September and October.
speaking, the more
After
Moorish Grenada, or stately
of weeks suffice to see the marvels, of which
the Museos are indeed

periods are
the
all
its
it
is
The long usurpation
oriental type.
or Arabs, has left the vestiges of their presence
on the institutions and customs of the country.
of the terms of the Spanish language, betray their origin
from the Arabic, while several of the customs of the people,
and the prevailing order of the architecture,
The
traces of the African conquest.
spectacle
and pageant of Spain,
show the
the
grandest
bull-fight,
decidedly of a Moorish cast,
is
and I found myself well prepared to

first
clearly
visit
traveled through the regions of the
this land,
by having
Turk and Arabs.
Quite late in the evening of the third night, after
we had
left
Bayonne, we were trundled into the court-yard of the Fonda de

las Diligencias;
we had
exercised our imagination for the last
three hours, during which
we were
illuminating rays of the last
burned with
fires
riding in the dark,
of our
ceaseless activity, until
by the
little cigarillas,
which
we were drawn through
116
the badly-lighted streets of Madrid, and there the lamps shed a
crowds of the
brilliant lustre over the passing
strolling
who were
from their walk on the
streets, or returning
about the
capital,
Prado, while we were landed from our diligence, at the hotel

situated in the
Calk
de Alcala,
which
the chief rendezvous
is
of the fraternity of the whip.
STREET SIGHTS.
Every body must begin with the Puerta
our City Hall,)
east gate, on
around on
remaining.
is
del Sol,
the centre of the capital, although once the
which the rising sun shone; now
all
which, (like
sides,
and the gate
The Puerta
del
it
has been built
gone, the
is
Sol, is the
name
heart where
all
only
the
great arteries of circulation meet and diverge, the centre where

the stream of Madrid
Among
life
and the
those which run into this
tide of affairs flow
common
head,
is
and ebb.
the street of
the Alcala, which wr ould really have been a noble promenade,
had
been built up with substantial houses, and not of the
it
present meaningless looking

edifices,
piles,
mere make-shifts and
and ostentatious frontages of
spiritless
forms run up to
flatter
the royal eye, behind which are mean, ill-paved, ill-lighted, and
ill-drained lanes.
The shops on the
streets
are the most fashionable

for themselves.
which branch from the Puert
their
del
Sol
wares exposed to the eye speak
Although they cannot
which burst with opulence into the
all
be compared to ours,
streets, yet
the rest of the
Peninsula consider them to be the magazine of the universe

"
You
will get it at
Leon, Salamanca,
article of
Madrid," says the shop-keeper of Toledo,
etc.,
commonest
when asked by
necessity.
the foreigner for some
WARES AND
Recently there
a day behind the
and
an improved show of commodities, espe-
is
French millinery and
cially of
and
fair,
no longer
will
light
articles
but
business
is
little
paltry
had not much

and seem,
but everything
is
which are not of fashion,
The shops
figure as
indicate a limited
done in them on a really grand scale
is
and
passive,
to do,
shop-keepers
native
goods
beyond the Pyrenees, here
sell
the last novelties of the season.
wealth
117
FAIRS.
still
and people walk about as
less to
spend.
The
they
if
generality of
without empressement or prevenance,
are
like Orientals, to care little
whether you buy of them
Madrid, placed in the centre of Spain, producing and
or not.
supplying nothing, consumes everything, like an exhausting

receiver
expense
is
and as
all
that enters comes from a distance, the
enhanced by transport and heavy
The makeshift poverty

or
fair,
of
duties.
Madrid is revealed during the
which begins every September 21, and ends October
Then the contents
becomes one
brokers alley, as every family that has anything to

7
the article in the street.
sell
exhibits
Occasionally a good book, picture,
and old Toledan blade might be picked up
how many
4.
and
of the houses are turned out of doors,
their nakedness exposed; then the only "Corte"
display
Feria,
are anxious to
sell,
but sad
how few
to buy.
is
the
It
is
said by veteran fair-loungers that the same wares appear every

year, just as floating rubbish in a mill-dam keeps
and down
in
one vicious
circle
coming up
the same results are evident in
the Almonedas, or sales by private contract, and the auctions,

Subastas, a term derived from the
The
south-side of this Plaza
adjoining
it
is
Hasta.
occupied by the Post-office
to the right, are the mail
lishments, while at the east-side

del
is
Roman Sub
and post-horse
estab-
the church Nuestra Senora,
buen Suceso, a paltry building with an illuminated clock.
118
Here occurred that sad scene
Murat chose
of the
is
Dos
this
de
in the annals of
Madrid, when
church for one of the places of the butcheries
Mayo, 1808.
This clock, like that of
"The Park,"
the one by which those
who
value their time set their watches.
Thus
and
locality,
Puerta
religion, letters,
del
Sol, the real national
combine to render the
Cortes, or congress, the site
of meetings in the market-place, and the resort of quidnuncs and
many who have nothing to do in a

industry, and who here begin and end
which
is
indeed of small value,
and doing
the
that
business
is
their
day
or
that day,
thus wasted in a lazy routine,
which the
evil
one
provides for
idle.
Here, therefore,
who wish
all
will never lack subjects for
to study character
and costume
pen or pencil; for the Madrilenian,
the ancient, lives out of doors, /oris, in the forum,
like
own
wisely prefers the cheerful sun to his
which has no
to ayopocaOoci
tell
city without trade
or hear
All this
fireside.
of the Athenian,
some new thing," as
the otiose Horace,
who
who
did
it is
else
but " either
forum
of
delighted to pick up the last bit of
a day and
the
Accordingly,
position on this
forum of
Roman, while a
cigar
tion,
little
the vespertinum
lie
dies."
comfortless home,
the classical and Oriental
is
correct intelligence, " the ephemeral

"
and
that does
its
business in
Spaniard takes up a
the Puerta del Sol, cloaked like a
and the Gazeta indicate modern
civiliza-
and soothe him with empty vapor.
The
blind are here the usual itinerant vendors of the broad
sheet, " second editions," lying bulletins,
Boktines y hojas volantes.

of one whose vision
is
and the blind are the

in the
Indeed,
going,
fit
it is
and
flying handbills,
quite a proverb to say
Esta ya para
ir
a vender gazetas ;
guides of those stone blind
who
romances which are printed and circulated in
believe
this heart
GOSSIP AND BUZZ.
And who
and brain of Madrid.

religio
loci,
audeat
the Puerta del
Xor can
smoke, and
lies,
can doubt the authority of the
Soil
Quis solem dicere falsum
be denied, in spite of the clouds of cigars,
it
that the shrewd people do,
some truth at
arrive at
119
somehow
or other,
last.
Observe the singular groups of sallow, unshorn, hungry,

bandit-looking men, with
and thread-bare
fierce, flashing eyes,
shorn capas, which cluster like bees round the reader of some
" authentic letter."
These form two of the three classes into
which a large portion of
all
who wear
long-tailed coats
may
be divided.
The
Pretendientes or place-hunters, y Cesantes or the turned-
out of
office,
polish the
pavement of the Puerta
the restlessness of caged wild beasts, for this
del Sol,
with
the den of the
is
JEmpko-maniacos, the victims of that madness for place which
is
the peculiar disease of Madrid; they are the buzzers about

of " Reports of the best informed circles,"
to the chilling whisper, the susurro the
from the
se dice
en
fiery treason
el
pueblo, the
personal abuse, the envenomed calumny, the plausible insinuation
and
all this,
either dignified
by the splendid phraseology
of the Castilian idiom, or enlivened
by the mocking
satire,
cutting sarcasm, and epigrammatic wit, in which the dramatic,
semi-comic Spaniards have few rivals.
The
"
interjections
every one's mouth; nor
England
Doblez
is
(the
the
deadly
Italian
deceptive because
it
falso" "mentira" " mientes" are in
Es
is
this giving the
insult,
often
Furleria,)
is
or
lie,
which in honest
resented.
duplicity,
This Asiatic
is
the
more
accompanied by a grave, high-bred
manner, and plausible, apparent frankness, which seems honesty

itself,
and
is
who do not know this strange

Duke said, who was truth person-
quite edifying to those
Oriental people; but, as the
120
ified,
are
"It
to understand Spaniards correctly, they
difficult
is
such a mixture
low intrigue coupled with extreme
of
("Disp." Dec. 13, 1810.)
haughtiness of manner."
The Puerta
del
Sol
is
the haunt of beggars, and theatre of
Sometimes the prizes are trinkets
rifas, or raffle lotteries.
for
the fair sex, pictures of saints, a fat pig, or broad ounces of red
The
gold.
quence of this low

la
and Broadway loungers
dandies,
life,
resort, in conse-
to the tiendas de quincalla in the Calle de
Montera; next we enter the Calls de Alcalde which
is
one of
the finest streets in Europe, being placed on a gentle slope, and
with just curve enough to be graceful.
disemboguing
like
The
perfect effect
houses,
river,
streams into the Prado.
destroyed by the lowness of some of the
is
which are not
fringe; but
its living
The great aorta widens
in proportion to the
summer
the glare in
is
width which they
terrific,
deserves well for having planted the acacias.

chill blasts
streets,
The
Meanwhile, the
from the snow-capt Guadarrama, piercing the
blow out the brief taper of Madrilenian

first
edifice
to the
Aduana, or custom-house,
east
and Espartero
left,
is
built in
life.
the fine quadrilong former
1769
for Charles III.
and west fronts are ignoble, but the fagade to the
handsome; the
shield
cross-
The
street is
and Famas are by Michel, and add
little
to his fame; while the stone satyrs outside smile at the former
farce of business done within,
and the
facilities
afforded without
to fraud.
Adjoining,
is
Academy of San Fernando, a Bour1744, when the French heroic mode in art,
the Royal
bon
exotic,
i. e.
full-bottom wigs and
founded in
was removed here
Roman
in 1744.
togas,
was
all
the vogue
Attached to the Museo
is
it
a collec-
tion of natural history; but vainly did Charles III. inscribe
over the portal that this was to be the lodging of art and
HOT-BED OF JOBS.
nature under one and the same roof

second-rate imitators of other
effectually barred the banns.
121
the royal academicians,
mens works, not of Xature, have

7
This establishment has too often
been the hot-bed of jobs, and the nurse of mediocrity.

Founded
ostensibly with a view of restoring expiring art,
it was called in
too late; nor was
it a humane society which could

resuscitate a
and not apparantly dead patient. It came rather
to
smother the last spark of nationality, then proceeded
to "
really
hoist
signals of art in distress,"
by hanging up
its
copied inanities as
proudly as an undertaker puts up a hatchment.

created even a tolerable artist.
It has never
There are some good things in the Royal

Academy, by
Ribera and Moya; observe in the first saloon, " a
Christ cruci-
fied;"
and
"a
before Pilate,"
Tihoso,"
in
Christ in purple,"
by Morales.
by Alonso Cano; "a Christ

The grand Murillo is called "El
which Santa
Isabel, of Hungary, is applying

remedies to the scabby head of a pauper urchin;
she is full of
tenderness, but the sores are too truly painted
to be agreeable,
they recall the critique of Pliny, (xxxiv.

9,) on a similar
picture of Leontinus, cujus hulceris dolorem
sentire etiam specfor
tantes
videntur;
but
her
saint-like
charity
ennobles
these
which her woman's eye dares not look on, but her
royal hand does not refuse to heal, and how
gently; her beauhorrors,
almost divine, head, contrasts with that of the beggar hag

in the foreground.
This noble picture was carried off from La,
Caridad, of which, in subject, it was the appropriate gem
for
tiful,
the Louvre; but Waterloo restored
it
to Spain,
if
not to the
fair Bastis.
In the second saloon, are two superb Murillos, also

taken by
Soult from Santa Maria la JBlanca, at
Seville, also sent
to Paris,
and rescued,
like
Santa Isabel.
These glorious
pic-
122
dream of
tures represent the legend of the
el
Patricio Romano,
which preceded the building of the Santa Maria
Home, under Pope
The Dream, the best
the gaps
fit
two,
the
of
sentiment
the
of
sentation
year 360; they are
Liberius, about the
semi-circular in shape, to
Mayor, at
la
at Seville.
visible
still
an exquisite
is
repre-
The Roman Senator
sleep.
is
dressed like a Spanish hidalgo, for the localism and Espano-
Murillo scorned
lismo of
foreigner
patrician has
the
fast asleep at his siesta,

[ley a
book,
air,
even to borrow costume from the

quite a Shakspere look
and no wonder,
xaxov, and an undoubted soporific.
where the dreamer explains
painted in the vapor oso style
The
Yirgin, in the
The companion
the distant procession
floor
The specimens
of marbles are splendid,
the
is
his vision to the pontiff, is
In the second
is
he
since he holds a large
points out the site of the future church.
picture,
Gabinette de
is
admirable.
Ciencas naturales.
and show what
trea-
sures yet remain buried in the Peninsula; the ledges of the
cabinets
are
Verde Antique from
brown
Barranco de San Juan, near Granada;

;
agates, from Aracena
from Conil ; lead ores of every
lized sulphurs,
lump
el
from Lanjaron
jaspers,
Sierra de
Observe the
lined with the choicest varieties.
Gador ; copper, from Rio
of virgin gold, from the
tinto ;
from the
tint,
the
crystal-
celebrated
Sonora mine, weighing 16|
lbs.,
has recently been stolen, no mineralogical knowledge being

necessary
virgin
to
discover
mass of
The grand
silver,
its
of
value
250
there remains,
lbs.;
however, a
one of copper, of 200
object of the Spanish gypsies,
is
lbs.
the large loadstone
La
Piedra Iman, and they are always plotting
this
Bar
how
to steal
Lachi, which they believe to be a love-philtre and a
talisman against policemen, excise
Having
fully
officers,
and the
devil.
recovered from the fatigues of our wearisome
THE FANCY.
123
journey to the capital, we, of course, enjoyed the

tive objects
which had met our regard during the
many
attrac-
stroll of this
After dining at the Fonda, I again started out, with
day.
by the announcement of a
expectations highly excited

fight,
which was to take place at the
I had
first
my
bull-
circus, outside the gates.
provided myself with a ticket for the shady side of
the Plaza, and proceeded with the crowd that was moving in
the streets, until, at about five o'clock, I found myself posted
between the Calle de Alcala and the Plaza, waiting
full
half an
hour before the doors opened, to see the arrival of the mob.
Kow,
indeed,
Monday
afternoon,
aficionado
How
it
is
and we have already become one of the
for
we
are going to a Bull-fight.
the stately gait of the proud Castilian passes into the
of people
What
are in Spain, and no mistake, and
the fancy
hurried race
full
we
of the
ignoble plebian.
moving onward
The main
street
was
in the direction of the spectacle.
a din and dust, what costumes and
cdlesas ;
what wild
owners running outside, what picturesque manolos and monolas

inside the carriages
which follow those conveying the picadores
and other supernumeraries to the games.
How
coquettishly
these bright orbs of the majas twinkle to the stranger, as they
look so slyly up from under their mantillas, into the eyes of

their fancifully dressed majas, as they trip briskly along,
in the tide
moving
which now swells with impatience and anxiety under
the porches of the gate of Alcala.
THE BULL-FIGHT.
At
Toros,
six o'clock the
immense amphitheatre of the Plaza de
capable of holding
12,000 spectators,
the highest and lowest of Spanish blood.
is
filled
with
Architecturally they

124
are shabby places, but the bull-fights are first-rate at Madrid,
and the
Plaza come from the pastures
every
aficionado
description of one in
fancy
man
At six,
precisely,
given.
had
entered.
At
feet.
and the signal
The
la Corta."
not a vacant seat was to be found in that vast
circumference of 1,100
cleared,
read in the splendid
will
GazuVs ballad
" Estando toda
is
of the
That breed was famous even among the Moors,
Jarama.
as
this
toros for
for the
the hour appointed, the arena
commencement
of the
consisting of the chulos
of the Ceremonies,
and
march up
of the actors, on this occasion,
by the Master
picadores, preceded
to the seat of the President, who,
Queen, as the representative of royalty,
in the absence of the
is
by which they
alquazils retire through the passage
The procession
games
seated in the Throne Box, and having
made due and
is
loyal
obeisance to the Royal Arms, withdraw to resume their proper

stations in the circle.
The President then throws the key of
game
the bull-pit to the Master, and the
begins.
The
chulos
stand in position to the right, and the picadores on a line to

the
left of
after
the passage by which the bull
the brief ceremonies
authorities.
picturesque
Both these
and
gay
embroidered in
silk
about to enter,
of their presentation to the city
parties
dressed in their most
axe
with
habiliments,
Figaro's, in the opera of the
is
Barber of
and gold.
The
their
Seville,
dresses,
like
most splendidly
picadores are the antag-
onists of the animal until the last stage of the combat.
The
chulos carry each a scarf of a brilliant color, by which they

attract the attention of the bull,
the picadores are in danger.

end, leaving
and draw him
A long,
only about an inch
off
when any
of
stout spear, with a blunt
of a
sharp pointed spike
125
BULL SPECTACLE.
projecting,
is
the only
weapon
of the picador
who
is
mounted
and
on a miserably lean and broken-down horse, with
his legs
thighs encased in thick plates of cork to protect
him against
the horns of the bull.

is
seldom hurt
If the picador
only
ancle occasionally,
life,
he
killed.
Some
in very little danger, every care
but none of that of the poor horses.
These are bought up

be
is
sometimes thrown, he
bruised, perhaps, or a sprained
little
for
being taken of his
is
for
or
five
are so thin and
ten dollars, expressly to
weak that they
are hardly
able to carry their riders to the pit-ring, and are almost always
overthrown, with their
riders,
in
every encounter with the
bull.
These wretched horses are made more forlorn by being

blindfolded,
and are completely passive at every attack of the
enraged beast.
In the days of the Moors the
finest horses
employed, and the game was more spirited, and the

rider
was aided by the sagacity and
that bore him.
Now
it is
fleet foot of
From
Dix
in his "
the burden of our
own, speaking of
Summer in
notes we find a
its
of the
the animal
a degenerate spectacle with
cruelty of the ancients, without a particle of

least so says Senator
skill
were
all
the
chivalry, at
Spain."
description of our
this spectacle in less elegant
but more concise
language.
Everything being ready, and
all
eyes fixed upon the point of
entrance, a noble bull, lately from the pastures of the Jarama,
plunged wildly into the
pit.
This beast seemed lost amid the
multitude gazing upon him, and as he rushed madly around the

circle,
stopped to view the crowd, and seemed imploringly to
seek for aid or pity from those

ness his butchery.
The
hisses of the populace,
first
who had assembled
to wit-
one was hardly game, and the
mingled with
cries of disappointment,
126
caused the picadores to advance upon the stupid animal.
thrust from the blunted lance roused the bull from his bewil-
dered state, and he turned savagely round upon his attacker,
and with a
furious lunge buried his horns deeply in the sides
of the emaciated horse, with a force that upset both the rider
and
his steed, while
he stood
still
goring the fallen animal until
the nimble ckulos, running around the scene of the overthrow,
succeeded in drawing
off
the attention of the enraged bull, by
flinging scarfs of various colors before his eyes.
fresh horse
was then brought
being scathed, a new one

fresh
is
in,
and the
first
picador
mounted, who, in turn, makes a
and vigorous charge on the
The
bull.
animal,
now
worried and incited by continued taunts, ran with a rapid pace
towards
them
to
his torturers, driving
jump over the
them before him
palisades that
between the ring and the spectators.

his tormentors, the
of the fences
until
he forced
marked the
Yindictive
now
maddened victim overleaped the
then wildly the shrieks of the
interval
against
barriers
women rang round
the point of his assault, and fearfully scampered the occupants

of the adjoining places, until the animal
had been attracted
again within the arena by the trainers and their attendants.

This was indeed sport for the aficionados; the fancy hurrahed
and applauded him as game, while bets ran high on the
bulls
of Jarama.
Again the picadores
assault the hero of the amphitheatre,
thrusting their lances longly and heavily against his haunches,
and
in turn the bull tosses his
while chulos
move about the
his eyes, until the oandilhros
head and gores
ring flaunting their scarfs before
come
in with feathered arrows,
decked with party-colored ribbons, and

terous
skill, fairly
into the
his opponent,
fling
them with dex-
neck of the weithing beast.
Thus,
A BLOODY GAME.
increased agony
is
127
added to the injury already done,
mounts as the mordant barbs rankle
in their
rage
his
wounds, and he
raves with the fury of a stricken giant, sending his piteous
moans
horns in wild despair, and
in hideous strains, tossing his
tearing the ground beneath with his convulsive fore feet; paw-
ing and groaning, as
if
the soul of the tortured brute, was
Xow,
craving vengeance on his murderers.

his
madness
is
at this point,
when
and the summit of demoniac inven-
at its height,
tion racked to the extreme limit of cruelty, the matador enters
the
dressed
proper dandy of the turf
with
the finery of
all
a Spanish bridegroom, wearing his fearful dagger under the

brilliant curtain of
bull
on to the
His purpose
a scarlet cloak.
folds of his red shawl.
The
is
draw the
to
animal,
now
in the
with a blood-stained
fullness of his ire, his eyes flashing
and head almost crazed by a sight of the bloody
fire,
cloak, rushes
wildly and blindly on to the insidious bait, and as he gathers

all his
energies for the last fearful onset on his persecutor, the
matador nimbly turns from the pursuit, and eluding
by a spry turn
to the
left,
with a
weapon and buries
thrusts his
skillful
its
dies,
and the game
is
over
The
bull staggers,
sinks, lowers, himself
shortening of his forelegs, tumbles,
then
and well-aimed blow,
blade deeply in the neck
of the desperate and deluded monster.
with a few spasmodic struggles, he
his victim
rolls
over heavily,
and
by the
falls-
and while the huzzas of the
excited population rung through the
air,
motley caparisoned
mules are led in to drag the victim from the arena, and then
the crowd retires, amid the illuminations of ten thousand fans,
which are wantonly burned at

thirst
nation,
of
human
passions.
whose pride claims
thirstiness
for
this
inhuman
sacrifice, to
the
poor spectacle indeed for a
them a
title
of nobility.
Blood-
and cruelty, are a refinement to the proud there!
128
disgusting spectacle
a barbarous, shocking
which must necessarily tend to harden the best

manity, and
delicacy,
number
is
we term
cruelty,
it,
feelings of hu-
outrageous to every sentiment of gentleness and
which should adorn that softer sex who sat among the
of
its
admirers and approvers, sanctioning and encourag-
ing this act of vandalism and brutality by their presence and their
Gracious Heaven!
smiles.
Are we
in
Spain
is
this the
climax of their holydays?
Is this the age of reason
Is
it
possible
that even the Turks and the Arabs, exercise the law of charity
towards beasts, and that Spain, with Isabel for a Queen, " a
woman regnante"
loyal Catholic Spain
the
country of the
once most proud and hearty of earth's kingdoms, alone

such horrors for the amusement of her people
and tremble, even as we write
The second morning
We
offers
shudder
it.
after our arrival
near the Plaza del Carmen, while
was spent
in the street,
we were amused
in viewing
the different groups of people that were engaged in vending

their merchandise at the fruit market.
scenes
There I saw several
of beggar-boys of that ragged school, or sans culottes
order, so often painted
by Murillo, who were playing cards at
the corners of the streets in the same peculiar postures and
groupings which are so well represented in the engravings of

his master-pieces.
Crossing
over by the Puerta
again entered the street of Alcala, and followed
it
del
Sol
we
to the planted
and public walks which ran at the end, where the Prado opens
to the right.
Continuing our walk we reached the Puerta de Alcala.

the finest gate in Madrid, being merely ornamental
walls, a
mean
girdle to
the
" only court," are
were never intended
for defence against
is
for the
mud, and
of
might be jumped over by a tolerably active Remus
It
but they
any invaders except
SALOON WALKS.
smuggled cigars
although they might be battered
yet,
129
down
with garbanzos, this architectural ornament was mutilated by

the French, whose sportive cannon-balls were especially directed
at
it
Te saxa loquuntur.
THE PRADO.
Opposite to the Plaza de Toros and to the
Buen
are the gardens of the
Retero,
Returning to the Prado, the view

a name familiar to
is
on winter days, from three to
here,
" the
The Prado
all
amatory.
It
five,
and summer evenings
in the time of Philip
murder and
for
IV. was a
intrigue, political
and
was leveled and planted by the Conde de Aranda,
under Charles
walks
The Prado,
very striking.
the rank, beauty, and fashion appear.
meadow,"
wooded dip renowned
their gate, la Gloricta.
the Prater, the Hyde-park of Madrid;
all, is
from eight to twelve,
and
left of this gate,
III.,
and
laid out
Atocha convent
the length, from the
de Recoletos,
is
9650
feet
by Jose Hermonsilla
in
garden
to the Portillo
the most frequented portion, "
el
Salon," extends from the Calle de Alcala to the Calle de San
Jeronimo, and
is
1450
feet long
by 200 wide.
The Salon
ter-
minates with the fountain of Neptune, sculptured by one Juan
de Mena.
Of
the seven other fountains those of Apollo and
Cybele are most admired; but these stony things are as nothing
to the living groups of
and
talk, ogle
and nod, or
Spanish thing and scene,

it in
it
age, color,
all
sit
is
and smoke.
unique
Europe, and oh, wonder
and costume, which walk
The Prado, a
and as there
is
truly
nothing like
as there are no English on
it,
who pass the Pyrenees. Its eternal sameness is

guest who tarries but a week, while, to the native,
fascinates all
lost to the
custom does not
stale,
nay, the very sameness has a
charm
130
among a
who hate
people
innovations.
The company
is
most
observant of forms and ceremonies, and strictly decent in appearances.,
and
French
in all that the correct
call les convenances;
nothing here, or indeed anywhere in Spain, offends the public
The Prado
eye.
natives
is
a noisy, dusty scene, and to
is
but a poor thing after
all
all
but the
as no grass, no continental
apology for English lawn grows on this so-called meadow, a
modest misnomer
after the fashion of
No
Parisian paradise.
offered
Les Champs
.Ely sees of
flowers enamel this Prado, save those
by impertinent daughters of Flora.
Fire and water,
Murillo-like
y quien quiere agua ? resound on every side

urchins run about with lighted rope-ends for
smokers,
for ninety-nine out of one
Candela, Fuego
i.
e.
Aguadores follow the

your Spaniard
is
fire,
like engines,
as adust as his
Strange as the Prado
still
soil,
and
appears,
hundred males, while

with fresh water, for
thirsty as Vesuvius.
it is
sadly fallen off from
the good old times before the fatal invasion and the nuevo
progreso; every afternoon the
and
civilization
is
Buonaparte never
"your
little
march
of transpyrenean intellect
crushing some national costume and custom.

inflicted
more
injuries to
Spanish
man than
French milliner" or modista has done to the
daughter of the saya y mantilla.
On
the Prado, the mirror of Madrid, will be seen the
whom
ence of the foreigner, for
in
influ-
words the Spanish profess
such contempt, but whose deeds are indeed at variance with the
boast of every mouth,
Los Espanoles
sobre
todosP
Here
they do their best to denationalize themselves, and to destroy

with suicidal hand their greatest merit, which
is
the
being
Spanish ; for Spain's best attractions are those which are characteristic of herself.
The Roman
toga, the capa,
the English paletot, and the graceful
veil,
is
giving
way
to
the mantilla, to Boule-
RUSE DE FORCE.
Here
yard bonnets.
all
that
131
imitated
is
poor and second-
is
rate,
and displeases the foreigner, who can see the
much
better at
home hence
;
originals
the never-failing interest which the
They, by continuing to be national and
lower classes present.
out-and-out Spanish, are always racy and respectable, and, so

far
from being
ridiculous, like the better classes, are the delight
and admiration of the
rest of the world.
The Prado,
as
it
approaches the Plaza de Atocha, becomes more umbrageous
and
This
quiet.
the favorite site of bores, lovers, and but-
is
ton-holders.
Advancing
of the
Dos
to the
de
called
is
el
Campo
de la Lealdad
by Ferdinand TIL,
in
whose eyes the senators and heroes of
Here the
Castilian
The anniversary
whole globe.
to be an affront,
solemnity
is
2d of May,
The French
offensive to their
The bloody
March
history
is
honur
man who,
is
the
cele-
consider this
but the annual

the prophet
is
Murat
soon told.
arrived
1808, as a " friend;" but Buonaparte,
23,
whose Spanish policy was ruse doublee de
blow of
paw on
his
a record and a warning, for the past
of the future.
at Madrid,
and
Leon puts
of the
brated like the 5th of Xovember.
shot,
Field of
of independence found no favor, because of their reform-
ing tendencies.
strike a
the
It was begun in 1814, by the Cortes, but was stopped
Loyalty.
war
monument
the simple pyramklical
Mayo, raised to the manes of the victims of
Murat, on what
the
left, is
terrorism,
knew
force,
his instrument, as
wishing to
it
was
this
with Loison, had massacred the Parisians with grape-
October
5,
1195.
The forced departure
of the king's
brothers was resented by the citizens; angry cries were heard,
and the mob were sabred by the French.
truce
agreed between the Spanish authorities and Murat,

his
honor to observe
it;
was then
who pledged
and then, the instant quiet was
re-
132
stored, seized old
and young, lay and
clergy,
and on the next
day constituted a military commission, headed by Grouchy,
when hundreds were put to death on the Prado as being the

most public place. But Murat only sought to intimidate: "La
journee d'hier donne l'Espagne a l'Empereur," wrote he.
Franconi, fool
Poor
that day lost even France to his master, while
the fate of the two agents satisfied political justice.

Pizzo, October 13, 1815, sent
"k
A ball at
beau sabrcur" to his account,
executed under the summary provisions of another of his
Draco enactments; and Grouchy
is
own
mixed up with the downfall
of the prime mover of the tragedy.
Buonaparte, when he discovered that terrorism had only exasperated
Spain,
all
replaced his blundering executioner by
S a vary, reeking from the murder of d'Enghien.

of his
This
tool
fit
Machiavelism, soon managed to kidnap Ferdinand VII.,
who, when warned of the trap, refused, says even Foy,

"
147,) to believe the project.

lêrfidie etait
une injure a
La
seule idee d'une
la grancle
ame
si
(iii.
horrible
d'un Heros tel que
Napoleon."
The Spanish heroes
of the
Dos
de
Mayo, were named Jacinto
Ruiz, Luis Daoiz, and Pedro Velarde.

lery refused to
These
officers of artil-
obey when ordered to surrender their cannon to
the French: the two latter perished.
The
philosophy of the
Spanish war of independence was Espanolismo,
under foreign dictation
i.
e.
impatience
the conduct was accident, impulse of the
moment, personal bravery, and contempt of
discipline.
Here
three individuals, with only three cannon and ten cartridges,
disobeyed orders, and dared to pit their weakness and want of

preparation, against the strength of a most military and powerfully
organized foe; they had nothing fixed, but their great
courage, and greater hatred of the invader, and they repre-
PLEASANT RETREAT.
sented their countrymen at large.
133
And
although routed, be-
cause exposed to unequal chances by their inexperienced
and
left
their
" wanting of everything in the critical
miserable juntas and governments
Spaniards, prodigal of
this holy
war.
The
provinces, like blood
yet thousands
them
summons
in
The
of the East (Judg. xx. 6).
hand to hand,
sparks
its
on a
fell
The
which exploded throughout the land.
train,
of
fugitives carried the sad details into the
cross of fire passed from
prepared
moment," by
as Moslems, rose to replace
life
chiefs,
flame blazed out in an jEtna eruption, one heart in the bosoms

of the masses, one cry,
miscreant French"
"Mueran
burst
gavachos"
to the
The honest
monks nor English gold"
them, as the Buonapartists falsely
national instinct: honor, therefore, eternal,
and noble
"Death
from every mouth.
people neither required "fanatic

rouse
los
stated;
is
it
to
was a
due to the brave
people of Spain.
Turning now to the
left,
we
entered the
Buen
Retiro.
large extent of ruined buildings and pretty gardens
out by the Conde
Duque de
was
This
laid
Olivares, as a "pleasant retreat" for
Philip IV., and in order to divert his attention from politics
and
his country's decay.
theatre, in
erected a palace and a
which the plays of Lope de Vega were acted; the
former, however,
tures
Here was
was burnt by
by Titian and Velazquez
Walk now
into
the
accideut,
when many
fine pic-
perished.
pleasant gardens,
which owe their
beauty to an English horticulturist, named Ward, and were

turned into a wilderness by the French.
a great interest in their restoration
Ferdinand VII. took

he replanted the trees
which had been torn up by the destroyers

large pond,
el
and miniature
he cleared out the
Estanque, on which he manoeuvred his swans

fleet.
He
re-established an aviary
and mena-
134
which were favorite pets of
gerie of wild beasts, las Fieras,
He
majesty.
his
also built Chinese pagodas, after the fashion of
George IV., and somewhat more apposite, as being near
At
China, than on the bleak coast of Brighton.
Belvidere,
the upper end
mound with a sort of summer-house, called

and justly, as it commands a good panoramic view
of the gardens,
el
la
is
of Madrid.
On
another occasion, after having obtained an entre from
Madrazo, the Director of the Royal

Mwseo, in company with Mr.
from the Rue Royale

himself on his card.
direction,
during
from the
my
St.
fact,
Conte Marzuzi de Aguirre,
le
Honore
am
Galleries, I visited the
6 a Paris, as he described
the more particular in giving this
that he was the only companion I had
and the
stay at Madrid;
society of a
family, excellent belles-lettres cultivation,

art,
is
better
man
and refined
so agreeable in travel, that one scarcely
mode
of appreciating
it,
than by blazoning
good
of
taste in
knows any
his
praise
to the world at large.
THE NEW MUSEUM.
On
the outside of the
Museum,
Artillery, 1st September, 1812,
What
a page of history
is
of an English private soldier,
is
inscribed "
Royal British
A. Ramsay."
condensed in that simple record
who marched,
after
Salamanca,
to the delivery of the Spanish capital
The Museo
is
huge,
history of the gallery
is
second and best wife,
La
this.
When
edifice.
The
Ferdinand married
real
his
Portuguese one Monte Allegre, who
had been a Spanish consul

nish the palace with
common-place
in
France, persuaded him to refur-
French papers, chandeliers, and ormolu
clocks
his
HISTORY OF GALLERY.
135
particular fancy; thereupon
the quaint, original,
and cinque-cento
much
furniture,
even of Charles Y. and Philip

pictures taken down,
of which
was
was carted
II.,
and stowed away
in garrets
when the Marques de Santa
out,
and
and the
corridors,
They were
exposed to wind, weather, and plundering.

perishing,
of the period
Cruz,
fast
Mayer Duomo,
Mayor, or Lord Steward, and the Duque de Gor, persuaded

the queen to remove them to the unused building on the Prado.
She advanced 40 a month towards repairing a few rooms
for
and by November, 1819, three saloons were
their reception,
got ready, and 311 pictures exhibited to the public: the extraordinary quality of which, especially of Yelazquez, instantly
who appreciate
Spain much better than
attracted the admiring eye of foreigners,

of the old masters
merits
of
natives.
Ferdinand TIL;
obtained,
now came forward with 240 a month, and
the
the
that renown was to be
seeing
the
Museo was slowly advanced, one more saloon being opened

1821
thus cheaply did he earn the
No
collection
advantages.
art,
was
of an Augustus.
continued under greater
Charles Y. and Philip II.
both real patrons of
were the leading sovereigns of Europe at the bright period
of the Renaissance,
when
and pervaded every

at Naples
and
fine art
relation of
in the
Low
was an every-day
necessity,
Again, Philip IY. ruled
life.
Countries, at the second restoration
of art, which he truly loved for

like
title
ever begun or
in
itself.
These three monarchs,
Alexander the Great, took a pleasure in raising their
painters to personal intimacy;
more highly honored than

the palace of Madrid.
At
Titian, Yelazquez,
artists of that, their
artists
been
and Rubens,
in
a later period, Philip Y., the grand-
son of Louis XIY., added
French
and nowhere have
many
pictures
Augustan
age.
by the principal
136
THE ROMAN AND MOOR.
LACES OF
While the Spanish kings patronized
Low
roys in Italy and the
art at home, their vice-
Countries collected and sent
who
the finest specimens of the great artists
Raphael down to the Carraccis and Claude
home
flourished from
these glorious
gems, until the French invasion, were preserved pure as when

they issued from the studios of their immortal authors.
was
Spain
their last stronghold, for, left neglected in a dry conservative
climate, even
Time paused
ere he could destroy such
Hence the pure undisturbed
genius and beauty.
adulterated surface, dirty and cold
even varnished,
if
you
were when they received their
and often net
will,
not tampered with, but
still
last touches
works of
freshness, the
left just
;
as they
not things that
were pictures, like the flayed Correggios at Dresden, or the
French-repainted Raphaels.
The invaders were the
first
what
virgin pictures, and,
is
and then
to ravish
worse, they set a
defile these
bad example and
taught lessons of corruption which have since been fearfully

carried out.
Those pictures which returned demoralized and
and varnished
denationalized, captivated with repainted glitter

faces, the native authorities,
gallery dull-looking
who, now thinking the rest of their
and out of
fashion, preferred the rouge of
The Spanish
a strumpet to the simple blush of a maiden.

director,
Madrazo
a guerra at
(?
cuchillo
Madrasto), a pupil of David, proclaimed

against the whole gallery.
picture has been taken
a pure Murillo
has gone on
left in
for
It
is
is
There
ruined.
the whole collection
twenty years, and
empty frame bears the

the condemned
down and
is
so
:"
is
scarcely
work of havoc
the
still:
whenever an
fatal sentence JEstd en la restauracicn,
placed en Capilla, and
all
gone to a purgatory from whence there
no " indulgence
Picture after
the last penalty
is
hope
is
is
at an end.
no deliverance,
enforced in underground
CARPENTER
where the
dissecting-rooms,
Lopez, Pibera, Bueno, Serafin,

for the fine arts
The glazing and
sweep away the
familiars
De
Huerta, Garcia,
la
color
were
last half-tints
and much became
effaced,
was banado or spread
the outline only of the divine original
Of
course, every traveler
catalogue, which
who
on, until, in
work of art;
while
some
cases,
fond of art will buy the
is
the spot, and as a library book at home.

as a
is left.
sold at the door, both as a vade
is
etc.
thus flayed, scoured, and daubed over.
raw and opaque which once was tender and transparent
new crude
lines
Madrazo's chief executioners were
where beauty lingered.
Alas
137
CRITICISM.
It
is
mecum on
but a poor
affair
author, the director Madrazo's chief
its
object seems to have been to give the size of each picture, not
the soul
Possibly by this carpenter-criticism, he has endea-
vored to give a merit of quantity versus quality to those acres
and which here take
of canvas on which he has labored in vain,
up space to the exclusion of worthier
things.
We
shall only
point out some of the best pictures of each master, dwelling

chiefly
on the Spaniards, and
bers of the
This, like
official
for that purpose refer to the
catalogue.
most other Spanish Museos,
rather than of design.
There
is little
arrangement, or classification
marking the chronology,

school in particular.
lomeo, Perugino,
racci,
It
is
there
M. Angelo,
Julio
its
order, scientific systematic

is
no
series of
painters
any
etc.
Romano, Ludovico CarIt
German
is
also deficient not
artists,
but even the
the splendid Yalencian and Seville schools (Murillo,
Yelazquez, and Juanes excepted).

of
a creature of accident
wanting in specimens of Fra Barto-
only in the early Italian and

;
is
either of art in general, or of
Caravaggio, Carlo Dolci,
Spanish
num-
extraordinary contents,
Yet
to give a general idea
suffice it to
say that there are
138
27 Bassanos, 49 Breughels, 8 Alonso Canos, 10 Claudes, 22
Vandykes, 16 Guidos, 55 by Luca Giordano, 13 by Antonio
Moro, 46 by Murillo, 3 by Parmigianino, 21 by N. Poussin,

10 by Raphael, 53 by Ribera, 62 by Reubens, 23 by Snyders,
52 by Teniers, 43 by Titian, 27 by Tintoretto, 62 by Velazquez, 24
by Paul Veronese, 10 by Wouvermans, 14 by Zubaran.
In truth, the
ding-cake
what house
spirits of
fault is that it
past days
is
too exceedingly rich, like wed-
and beauty,
of thought
Here time
arrested,
is
filled
with
and the dead
reappear as in vision, yet of delight, not fear
The
adapted for pictures,
galleries themselves are not well
having been built for other purposes, but the servants understand opening and closing shutters,
The rooms
lights.
are simple
etc.,
so as to improve the
no gewgaw ornaments distract
the eye from the pictures, which here are as they ought to be,
the
When we
objects.
pass these crowded walls,
a year were too short to examine the contents

banquet
is
set before us,
more than we can

lence,
and we run the
digest, or of
and loathing the honeycomb

and we
reject the
beware
oh,
the beautiful
be indeed weary of bores,
Madrazo, David, the devil and
more fatiguing than people
while,
and
is
exhausted by admiration.
;
is
by
as
fly
excel-
But
instinct.
the bad, eschew
works
and good.
think, for one
and with the body the mind
often and frequent
risk either of eating
any lassitude of the
of
his
all
never, risk the being tired of the fine

is
a too princely
then the planets shine
of one thing,
if
but we soon get fastidious,
modern rubbish
beware
seems as
becoming sated with
and the masses simplify themselves

forth,
it
is
but never, oh,

Picture-seeing
standing
all
the
also at exercise in judging,
Let, therefore, the visit be
take also one master at a time, as a know-
ledge of his peculiarities
is
more
likely to
be
fixed,
than by
HOMER OF PAINTING.
mixing up many
and
and subjects together, which
artists
fritters
distracts.
The grand masters

and
139
still
to observe are Raphael, Titian, Murillo,
more Yelazquez, as the three former may be compre-
hended equally as well at Rome, Hampton Court, Venice, and

Seville
but Madrid
cian, for here
Xow
is
is
the only
home
of the
mighty Andalu-
almost his entire work.
Here are the old
enter the saloon to the right.
lanos viejos y sin mancka, the old masters of Spain,
and
from
true, free
and foreign
all infidel
taint,
but
Castel-
good men
who now
seem to be hung up here in
terror em,
as
examples of what
modern students should avoid
for, if their
directors are artists,
then Murillo was a blockhead, and Yelazquez a dauber.
jSow
for Yelazquez,
who
here
is
to be seen in all his glory.
Fortunately for Spain, Buonaparte's generals did not quite
understand or appreciate his excellence, and few of his pictures
were " transported."
Again, from having been exclusively the
court painter, his works were monopolized by his royal patron;
and being
in the palace of Joseph,
who knew
even by those
fore, alone, is
power.
his
all
Here, there-
protean variety of
Diego Rodriguez de Silva y Yelazquez, was born at
Homer
Yirgil.
their mercantile value.
he to be studied, in
Seville, in 1599,
the
were tolerably respected
and died
of the
at Madrid,
August
1,
1660.
Spanish school, of which Murillo
Simple, unaffected, and manly, he
He
is
the
was emphatically a
man, and the painter of men, and particularly those of

stately Spain.
is
lofty,
In this he rivaled Timanthes, " artem ipsam
complexus viros pingendi."
was equally great
(Pliny,
'
X. H.' xxxv.
in portrait, history,
10.)
He
Sujets de Genre, and
landskip; he passed at once, without effort or violence, into each,
and into every variety of each,
from the
epic to the farce,
from
140
low
life
to high, from the old to the young, from the rich to the
poor, while he elevated portrait painting to the dignity of his-
He
tory.
was
less successful in delineations of
the ideal, and holy subjects; wherein he
He
could
was
female beauty,
inferior to Murillo.
draw anything and everything he could
touch, then he
was master of
his subject andjiever
and
see
mastered by
but he could not grapple with the unreal, or comprehend
it;
the invisible, immortal, and divine
and whenever he attempted,
which was seldom, any elevated compositions, the unpoetical

models from which he studied in youth were always reproduced.
Yet even
in this style, prose
and Thucydidean, there
much humanity,
is
if
you
please, but terse, nervous,
no mistake, no doubt, and always so
truth to nature, and meaning, that
thise with transcripts of beings of living flesh
ourselves.
No
his color is clean
and
truthful,
accustomed to the glowing

tones appear at
lineal
and
materials,
first
we
like
breathe, better than
although subdued; to those

of Titian
tints
and Rubens,
his
to be cold, his greys almost green; his
aerial perspective is magical; his

his
and blood,
man, again, Titian not excepted, could draw
the minds of men, or paint the very air
he
we sympa-
representation
of texture,
mastery over his
air,
and individual
His touch was
identity, are absolutely startling.
free
and
firm,
uniting perfect precision with the greatest executional facility.
He
seems to have drawn on the canvas; for any sketches or
previous studies on paper are never to be met with.
work,
"When at
he always went directly to the point, knowing what
he wanted, and when he had got

features,
and omitted the
trivial;
it
he selected the salient
and as he never touched
his
canvas without an intention, or ever put one touch too much,

his
emphatic objects are always
tone and
effective
again, his subdued
slight treatment of accessories, conferred a solidity
141
BEAU-IDEAL OF LANDSKIP.
and importance
brought up and
to
leading points, which
his
not by the usual patrons of
art,
gloomy than those
pictures are less
are
king,
life-conferring power
who were
of Spanish artists
For
truth
he carries everything before him, and
far the greatest so-called naturalist school
between him and our
and
the priest and monk, his
depressed by the cold shadow of the Inquisition.
and
thus
all
Having been employed by the
tell.
whose
artists, of
is
hence the sympathy
style
he was the
antici-
pation; for similar causes must produce similar effects, allow-
ances being
made
religion, habits,
"we
all,
and
of a different
climate.
therefore, at every one
Look,
in
for the disturbing influence
of his pictures ;
take them
for,
all
Those to be
ne'er shall see their like again."
peered into and analysed every day, are 81, the presumed
portrait of Alonso Cano; great truth
Antonio and
"and
much
air
St.
Paul Hermits.
8t, C. L. St.
beau ideal of landskip, not
richness unexampled, the
detail or imitation, but the very
we
and force
" In breadth," says Wilkie,
same sun we
breathe, the very soul and spirit of nature
see,
:"
114, portraits of Philip IY. and his second wife,
Austria
Pescara,
11T, a masterly sketch, said to be of the

full
of individual identity
be of the corsair Barbaroja, a

138,
C.
L.,
C.
mock coronation
N.,
actors
may
109 and
Maria of
Marques de
12T, C. N., portrait said to
line, fierce
old Turkish pirate
Los Bebedores or Los Borrachos
of a
of Teniers with the
and the
this
drunken group, combines the humor
breadth and
effect of
Caravaggio.
The
indeed be low in intellectual character, but not vul-
gar, being true to the
life
and
if
deficient in elevated sentiment,
are rich in meaning, and are transcripts of real man.
Next observe
142, Philip IY.
when aged;
it
is
the indivi-
dual himself, with the Austrian " foolish hanging of the nether
142
lip :"
full
145, C. L., Fountain at Aranjuez, an exquisite landskip,
and verdurous
of local color
realize the very
and are
in
D'Aunoy
in
See 101, 102,
Yelazquez
in his
118,
own
studio.
La
or
small
all his
and architecture done at
119, 128,
Las Meninas
155, C. N.,
with 540, C. L.,
Observe particularly
of ruins
Madame
of
letters
it
others with moonlight effects, and
of art.
much
Compare
description.
of landskip, studies
Rome,
what the
in painting,
another view at Aranjuez.

bits
and groups which
form and pressure of the period of Philip IY.,
fact,
are
freshness,
marvelous gems
all
Remark
we have
143.
132,
Teologia
here
This was called the " Gospel of
Art," by Luco Giordano; nor can aerial and lineal perspective,

local color, animal
and human
This gradation of tones in
life,
lights,
be represented beyond
this.
shadows, and colors, gives an
absolute concavity to the flat surface of the canvas,
we
look
into space as into a room, or as into the reflection of a mirror.
The shadows
are truly in chiaro oscwro, being transparent and
diaphanous, and rather a subdued light and

color
than a dark
chariness of bright colors
background:
the
Yelazquez,
may be
it
The
veil.
:
an
accessories
picture
is
less
remarkable for the
olive greenish tone pervades the
are
only indicated;
also said, as Pliny (N.
observed of Timanthes, " Intelligitur plus semper

et
cum
ars
sit,
no
to the ego, the
to
H. xxxv.
objective;
there
is
11,)
quam pingitur,
est :"
no showing
but
off of
calling attention to the performer's dexterity
adsum
qui feci; he loved art for itself without
one disturbing thought of
The scene
indeed, of
ingenium tamen ultra artem
was ever more
no painter
the artist
summa
pronounced
self.
represents the dull Infanta Margarita,
who
is
tried
be amused by her pages, while her two dwarfs, Maria
Borbola and Nicolacico Pertusano, worry a patient dog, which
143
BIG-LIPPED BEAUTY.
is
painted finer than a Snyders; these disports and distorts of
nature, then the fashion of the court, are as hideous as Voltaire,

ce
bovffon
du
diable
teresting; but
or
and the Infanta
is
mealy-faced and unin-
Yelazquez was too honest to
flatter
even royalty
its fools.
Next observe
the Conde
somewhat
doubt
it
156, Philip I"V., glorious
Duque
was true
Olivares on horseback;
cle
and
large,
to
lit, C. L., C. N.,
his
life,
seat
for
the animal
is
awkwardly forward, but no
is
Yelazquez would not stoop to woo
even a premier, or conciliate the spectator: his practical genius
saw everything
as
really was,
it
and
his hand, that' obeyed his
eye and intellect, gave the exact form and pressure without
much
Nothing- can be finer than- the
refining.
effects
produced
with the chary use of gaudy color in this picture and the pre-
man was
ceding 155; but no
husbanded
on
and even yellows, which
his whites
nature with the intervention of

saloon to the
forcible,
left,
Passing
air.
195, C. L., C. N.,
but painted from vulgar,
Apollo has nothing of the

Gallician
tell
up
like
gold
back-grounds, which always represented
unclertoned
his
ever more sparing of color; he
costume of the day.
This portrait
models.
while Yulcan
is
The
a mere
Infanta Maria in the court

is
interesting, as she
object of Charles the First's romantic visit to Madrid.
described by Howell,
into the
Forge of Yulcan;
the
ill-selected
deity,
198, the
blacksmith:
now
who was then
was the
She was
"as a very comely
there,
lady, rather of a Flemish complexion than a Spaniard, fair-
haired,
and carrying a most pure mixture of red and white
her face; she
is
full
and
big-lipped,
which
is
in
held a beauty
rather than a blemish, or any excess, in the Austrian family.
Afterwards, when the match was

truth
of her being of
off,
" fading flaxen
he speaks with more

hair,
big-lipped,
and
144
heavy-eyed.''
His
don, 1645, give
and what a
"
letters,
many
Epistolance Hoeliance" 4to.,
loss to this series is the portrait of
"N. H." xxxv.
It
2).
his visit,
Charles himself,
which Yelazquez began: pariunt desideria non

(Pliny,
and
curious details of Charles
Lon-
traditi vultus
would have been interesting to
have compared/ the picture by the Great Spaniard, with those
which we have by Yandyke, who knew Charles by heart, as

well as Yelazquez did Philip IV.,
and as we seem to do so too
after visiting this precious Museo.
Next observe 200,
C. L., Philip
209, a fine Old Lady,

C.
IS".,
effects
head
Philip III. on horseback,
produced by placing
is full
IV.
in
a shooting-dress:
in his early forcible style: 230, C. L.,
a marvelous specimen of his
his figure
on cool greys; the royal
of the individual imbecility of this poor bigot,
was twelve years learning
his alphabet; 245, C. N.,
an old
who
man
called Maenipo: 254, C. N., Esop, finely painted, but looking
more
like
a cobbler than a philosopher: 255, C.
K".,
a Dwarf,
seated as Yelazquez saw him, and as no one else could have
ventured to paint him: 267,
Un
Pretendiente, or place-hunter,
one of the Autochthones of Madrid; the attitude
is
270, C. L., the young Prince Baltasar, aged
with his dog
and gun.
Observe particularly
all
the
six,
admirable:
numerous sporting
portraits of theriomaniac Austrian royalty; for whether the
wearers are dressed for the court or the chace, they wear their
clothes with ease
ments of
and
fitness,
they are the real every-day gar-
living flexible bodies underneath, not stuck
on
like the
fancy masquerade of an imaginative painter, copied from a
wooden lay
figure:
279, C. N., an admirable full-length por-
how costume, feather, and Dog are

El Nino de Vallecas ; it is wonderful how
trait of a Dwarf; observe
painted: 284, C. N.,
he could have fixed the attitude: 289, a magnificently-painted
ART WITHOUT TRICKS.
portrait;
how
how much
145
produced, with
effect is
how
unlike the finished style of Pantoja, yet never
but Yelazquez was above
better represented;
detail;
little
all
was armor
tricks,
and
never masked poverty of hand and idea under meretricious

glitter;
C. N.,
with him everything was sober,
El Bclo
de Coria
real,
and
sterling:
291,
observe the green tones and expres-
waggery: 295, the Surprise of Io; nothing can
sion of roguish
exceed the profound sleep of Argos, or the stealthy action of
Mercury; the god of thieves
is
painted in an absolute anticipa-
K,
tion of Sir Joshua's style: 299, C. L., C.
equestrian portrait; this true <Pdlnnos
is
witching the world with
Monarch
noble horsemanship, the only attitude in which the
The horse
of Caballeros ought to be painted.
knows
its
rider ;
how
everything
tells
an
Philip IY.,
alive,
is
and
up on the cool blue and
greens in the back-ground; 303, C. N., Queen Isabel, wife of

Philip IY., a superb white steed; observe
how
her costume
is
painted, and despair; remark also the difference of the horses,
those which carry
men
are fiery and prancing, while those on
which women are mounted are gentle and ambling, as
if
con-
scious of their timid delicate burden: 319, C. L., the Surrender
of Breda, or
Las Lanzas,
is
Yelazquez; never were knights,
perhaps the
finest
picture of
soldiers, or national
character
better painted, or the heavy Fleming, the intellectual Italian,
and the proud Spaniard more
nicely
marked even
and breeches: the lances of the guards actually
to their boots
Ob-
vibrate.
serve the contrast of the light-blue delicate page, with the dark
iron-clad General Spinola, who, the
rous warrior,
is
model of a high-bred gene-
consoling a gallant but vanquished enemy.
took Breda, June
2,
1625, and died five years afterwards,
broken-hearted at Philip IY.'s treatment, exclaiming, "

quitado la honra!"
He
They have robbed me
of honor!
Me
han
Yelaz-
146
quez has introduced his own noble head into this picture, which
is
placed in the corner with a plumed hat.
This
is
indeed a
male subject, and treated with a masculine mind and hand; nor
men aware
are
how much
of
the sexual undercurrent leads
them
to admire pictures in which beautiful females are presented:
here,
where there
by
art
no
is
woman
whatever,
it
the triumph of
is
itself.
Observe particularly 332, C. L., C.

horseback
Don
ST.,
Baltasar on
the child actually g allops out of the frame, and
the anticipation of
Edwin Landseer, and
his
Chieftains on their wild ponies: 335, C. K.,
is
young Highland
Las
Hilaiideras,
the perfection of reality, although taken from ordinary
life;
power and weakness,
has,
here the
like
artist, feeling
at once his
Timanthes, turned aside the head
of the lady, leaving to
the imagination of each spectator to invest her with what

quality of beauty which best accords with his peculiar liking:
527, in another saloon,
is
the portrait of Gongora.
of Yelazquez, this great mortal, for he

ideal, will
defects
was not a painter of the
be seen in 62, C. L., Coronation of the Virgin,
seems a somewhat sulky female, while the Deity
a toothless monk.
degraded to
he was neither a poet nor an enthu-
and somewhat deficient
for the court
is
who
But he could not escape from humanity, nor
soar above into the clouds

siast,
The
and not
for the
guide, truth his object,
in creative
church
power: again, he painted
in
a word, Nature was his
and man, not always well
selected, his
model; no Virgin ever descended into his studio, no cherubs

ever hovered round his pallet, no saint came
to
sit for his
portrait: hence the neglect
down from heaven
and partial
failure of
his sacred subjects, holy, indeed, like those of Caravaggio, in
nothing but name, being groups rather of low

truly painted, as
still
life,
and that so
more to mar the elevated sentiment, by a
MURILLO.
14T
He
treatment not in harmony with the subject.

earth, not to heaven, for models
the
womanly tenderness
went to the
hence his Virgin has neither
of Murillo, the unspotted loveliness of
Raphael, nor the serenity unruffled by human passions of the

antique
he rather lowered heaven to earth, than raised earth
to heaven.
63, C. N., the
God
Mars,
is
a vulgar Gallician
porter: 161, C. L., an Adoration of the Magi,

early
style,
Ribera
is
was emancipated from the prevalent
before he
So the celebrated Jacob and
peculiarities.
hard
in his
Sons,
his
formerly in the Escorial, although a picture of great truth and
but a group of Gallicians; yet even when dipleased
force, is
with such repulsive subjects,
we
are forced to submit to the
power of master mind displayed

naturalist picture
influence
was painted
in the
Vatican
when
he did not
in Italy,
like
he dared them with his very
failings; in
he had eyes only for the Venetian school;
Raphael, as he candidly told Salvator Rosa.
Murillo will naturally come next to Velazquez.

ever,
is
He, howRe-
seen in greater glory at Seville, his native home.
ferring, therefore, thither for

it
so little
itself;
had the foreigners Raphael and M. Angelo on the
local Spaniard, that

fact,
This
in the representation.
some account of Murillo,
suffice
to say here that the specimens of this master of female
and
infantine grace are numerous, but scarcely one has escaped the
fatal restauracion,
i.
e.
destruction.
of subject, so dramatic,
to the
common
However, Murillo
and comes so home
sense of mankind, and
a magical fascination of
color,
is
to,
is
so full
and appeals so
recommended by such
that he captivates alike the
learned and unlearned, the sure test of undeniable excellence.
He
has more grace, but far
less of
the masculine mind than
Velazquez, who, compared to him, seems somewhat cold and
grey in color, for Murillo painted
flesh as
he saw
it
in
An-
148
dalucia, roasted
and bronzed by the glowing
and not the
sun,
Like
pale and unripened beauty of the north.
his
Titian,
strength lay in ravishing color ; none ever rivaled him in the
luminous diaphanous streams of golden ether, in which his

;
his blending continuity of tints,
like those of nature, slide into
each other, without a particle of
cherubs float like butterflies
harshness or abruptness
where there
is
no
led on
outline,
by an imperceptible
no drawing, so that
is
it
transition,
difficult
to
say where one tint ends and another begins.

Murillo, like Yelazquez, lacked the highest quality of the
Italian ideal
and imitated
true Spaniards, they were local,
nature as they saw her

glorified forms
and
thus Murillo's holy subjects are not
visions,
which compel us to bow the knee
and adore, but pleasing scenes of a domestic
family,
where
sports of graceful children attract the delighted attention of

affectionate parents.
M. Angelo, nor
There
is
neither the awful sublimity of
Again, his
the unearthly purity of Raphael.
Ninos Dios are not meditative prescient Infant Gods, nor
his
cherubs those angels of heaven from whence Raphael took his

types, but simply pretty mortal babes with wings,
and not even
babes of the world at large, but Spanish ones, nay more, only
local
Andalucian children
who
rose to glory in their
The stranger
will,
and such
own
also are his
male
saints,
Baetican clothes and bodies.
of course, look at all the Murillos, halting
Holy Family
particularly at 43, C. L., a
conjugal and parental happiness.
It
was
a pretty scene of
and
cruelly cleaned
repainted at Paris, especially the dog, and face of the Yirgin

46, C. L., a fine representation of the Infant Deity: 50, C. L.,
the Companion Infant Forerunner
the
left
leg
is
not pleasing;
observe the contrast of the callous foot hardened by exposure,
with the delicate
flesh of
46
52, Conversion of St.
Paul
the
BURLY MONK IN RED.
149
thigh of the Apostle and his white horse, cruelly repainted:

54,
La
Porciuncula (see post), overcleaned
Annunciation
ception,
fair
the Virgin's cheek
repainted
is
C. L., the
56,
65,
La
Con-
one of those representations of sweet cherubs, and the
Virgin floating amid flowers in a golden atmosphere, which
none could paint

like draperies
like Murillo
which play
and then the gossamer gauze-
human charms,
in the air, just veiling
which might suggest thoughts that war with the purity of the
Virgin
Magdalen,
82, C. L., a
imitation of Rlbera style
1T4,
and arms, and
legs
all
San Francisco de Paula, was a
by the
magnificient head and beard, before ruined

cleaner
style,
Bueno
182,
was a glorious
yiolent white
Death
picture,
in his
of St.
but
is
repainting of the
Andrew,
picture-
in his vaporoso
much disharmonized by
horse
Apostle has also been clumsily banado
the
the
drapery of the
189, C. L., Santiago,
a vulgar, coarse head of rather a Flemish character: 191,

C. L., C. N., Adoration of
Shepherds in
hovering between Velazquez and Ribera
and
careful
and how
and
the drawing
browns give value to the
their rich
:
style,
is
fine
delicate flesh of
203, C. L., Infant Saviour and St. John, a
delightful picture
in his middle style

2, 6, 7,
second
observe the local coloring, and foot of peasant,
Virgin and Child

rich
his
208, C. L.,
Rebecca at the Well,
the females are somewhat Flemish
the Parable of the Prodigal Son
all
excellent,
211,
but
treated both as to costume and conception rather according to
a picaresque Spanish novel than Holy Writ: 219, a rich blue
Concepcion
off,
220, St. Augustine; the Virgin somewhat too far
gives her milk to a vulgar burly
rich red casulla

itself,
full of
229, C. L.,
and beatifully painted

pulp and throbbing
life
in
a black robe, with
another Concepcion, innocence
how
:
monk
rich
and juicy the
310, C. L., Santa
flesh,
Ana
how
teaching
150
The pouting
the Yirgin.
child
admirable, but purely mortal
is
the draperies are in imitation of Roelas
Bernard
St.
Roelas
his
head
this
again shows
how
is fine,
closely Murillo observed
but
and the sentiments of gratitude and veneration
The concealing the
much
gives her figure too
height
326, C.
IS".,
monkish
The Yirgin with the
tailor
423, E.,
is
Yirgin
the miracle of
at Toledo, but
and the angels are nothing but
of earth, earthy,
saint a
feet of the
San Ildefonso
the Yirgin giving the Casulla to
and the
Vision of
IS".,
the draperies of the saint have been repainted
are admirably expressed.
it is
315, C.
milliners,
in another saloon.
rosary, a fine but early picture, in his
Ribera manner.
Next observe the
paintings of
Juan Juanes, the Spanish
Raphael, who, however, should be studied in his native Valencia
196,
1, 9,
and 336,
Stephen, an Italian-looking
too
much
C. L., subjects from the
series,
but the stones (in 196) are
This remark applies equally
to 225, C. L., the Last Supper, for Juanes
however
but the head of Christ
has, unfortunately,
the
Mount
is
was rather a man-
very
fine,
although
it
been much repainted: 259, the Saviour on
of Olives
best pictures.
of St.
the faces of the Hebrews, with their hook noses,
are somewhat Jewish for fine art.
nerist,
life
Observe the delight of the
apple-dumplings.
like
wicked boys
7,
268, Descent from the Cross, one of his
Juanes, because savoring of a
Roman
with a harder outline, and more decided drawing,
by more Spaniards than
style,
is
and
admired
foreigners.
Jose Ribera, better known as Spagnoletto (he was born

at Xativa),
maybe
truly studied at
Madrid;
here, this cruel
forcible imitator of ordinary ill-selected nature, riots in
ascetic
monks and blood-boltered
subjects, in
which
of the bigot, inquisitor, and executioner delighted
hard
this painter
a power of
Jacob's ladder.
151
drawing, of expressing long suffering and sufferance, a force of
and
color
a contempt of the ideal, beautiful, and tender,
effect,
characterize his productions
unpopular
England,
in
his unfor-
giving repulsiveness and stern harsh character have ranked him
among
w ho,
friend of Velazquez,
may be
as
seen
like Murillo, studied his style deeply,
who
will closely
pictures, will exhaust the master.
tyrdom of
which few
As Ribera was
examine half-a-dozen of
Observe 42, C.
Bartholomew, a favorite subject of
St.
w ish to
T
else ever
and haggard
was the personal
their early productions.
in all
a mannerist, those
tiful
He
the model-painters of Spain.
see twice
44, the Yirgin, elderly
Raphael w ould have chosen her young and beau-
very grand
The general
is
the wild broken tree-stumps are painted
admirable
121, Prometheus, a finely painted picture
and bowels, such alone as could be conceived by a
of gore
bull-fighter,
torture
Rosa, and the sleep of Jacob (a vulgar brown
like Salvator
monk)
and please a people whose sports are blood and
how
from the same subject by the poetical
different
There are here also many Apostles well
Titian (see post).
painted by Ribera, which w e do not enumerate.
285, another
St.
Bartholomew
Jerome
de
in
observe
which the sentiment of touch
473, St. Jerome
with his
In other saloons,
-.
415,
419, E., a good portrait of a blind Sculptor,
Gambazo,
shop
and one
116, C. L., Jacob's Ladder, a fine picture.
effect is
Mar-
L., the
his,
his
tools,
is
E.,
El
St.
Ciego
w ell expressed
r
480, St. Joseph and the Infant Saviour busy
which
is
but a transcript of a Spanish carpenter's
484, Ixion at the wheel, or rather a
Jew on
the rack of
the Spanish Inquisition.
Next
enter las Escudas varias, which
is
a collection of
differ-
ent schools, with
many
fine things
from the Escorial; the grand
central gallery
divided into the
modern Spanish masters, the
is
152
old Italians,
and
first for
German and French.

Raphael, 1483-1520
Agnus
called del
Let us take the

723, C. L., a
was rouged.
exquisite face of the Yirgin
ture and
landscape, equal to Titian,
da Udina.
to
Cromwell.
by
is
Paris,
I.,
Phillip
and was
St.
John,
where the
The ruined
architec-
by Giovanni
said to be
726, E., C. N., the celebrated Perla,
King Charles
Holy Family
Dei, from the inscription carried
whose body has been very much repainted at
chief singly,
which belonged
by
sold with his other pictures
IY. bought so largely at
the
auction,
through his ambassador Alonso de Cardeiias, that 18 mules
were laden with the

into
and he was so anxious to get them
lots,
Madrid, that he turned out the Lords Clarendon and
Cottington, then ambassadors from Charles II., being ashamed

to exhibit
When
what once belonged
Philip IY. beheld this Raphael, he exclaimed, " This
the Pearl of
was the
my
pictures,"
and he was a good judge,
Titian-like blue sky,

:
soul,
better portrayed
is
for never
serious gentleness of the blessed Yirgin Mother,
beauty of form, her purity of
ground
to his old friend and visitor.
her
the rich
streaked with red, forms a fine back-
this pearl of great price
was overcleaned when taken
to Paris, and has, in 1845, undergone another cruel operation

at Madrid.
HI;
E., C.
K,
Tobit and the Fish, la Virgen
del
Fez, a simple grand symmetrical composition, perhaps some-
what too yellow
This also was taken to Paris, and
in color.
was there removed from board

invented at Ferrara by
Antonia Contri, having been
scrubbed and over-varnished
El Pasmo
de Sicllia,
Sicily, called la
to canvas, a dangerous process
first
T84, Christ bearing the Cross, or
from having been painted for a church in
Madonna
del
Spasimo;
it is
accounted as second
who look to
dissent when called upon
only to the Transfiguration, by those
size,
afraid to express an honest
as a matter
or are
PICTURE-MENDERS.
of course to
Bonnemaison, of
whom
Passavant (Kunstreise 77) records
Mons. David
This
was removed from boards to canvas by Mons.
picture at Paris
anecdote
common-form raptures.
into stereotyped
fall
153
Even
ing these Raphaels with spirit of turpentine.
this
him spong-
calling one morning, found
the
man
of
the guillotine was shocked, and ventured to remonstrate, but
was answered,
then
much
relackered.
" It does no harm,
tone
the
repainted;
Again, however
it
is
nourishing."
hard,
is
figure of the soldier in front
was
and
brick-dusty
the expression of the mother,
fine
and groups to the
beautiful the Yeronica
It
right, the principal
somewhat attitudinarian and
is
theatrical.
Next observe
Rosa;
it
794, E., a sweet
has, however,
Family, painted in
Holy Family,
been doubted
1507
called
De
la
Holy
798, E., a small
834, E., St. Elizabeth visits the
Yirgin, a contrast of aged and youthful pregnancy, a subject
The composition
never over-pleasing.
fine
This also was removed,
landscape.
board to
and was
canvas,
varnished.
It
is
very simple, with
is
at
then painted over
inscribed in letters of gold,
F.; Marinus Branconius, F. F.
fecit facere
from
Paris,
and extra-
Raphael Urbinas,
901, a portrait,
according to some, of Bartolo, the jurisconsult; according to

others,
and
Andrea Navagiero, ambassador
of
author of " 11 Viaggio de
hard and reddish,
it is
Espagna."
to
Charles
V.,
Although somewhat
very grand, simple, and effective
905,
C. L., portrait of Cardinal Julio de Medicis, a truly Italian
head;
fine
how
full
compressed
of mental power; observe the decision in the

lips,
and the keen
intellect of the
pursuing eyes:
909, a portrait, thought by some to be that of Agostino Beazano.
Of
Titian
all
the Italian schools, that of Yenice
was the personal
friend of Charles
is
the richest.
Y. and Philip
II.,
154
and (although Kugler doubts
it,
being evidently unacquainted
with the Spanish collections,) he came to Madrid in 1532, and
remained there until 1535, which accounts
for the
number and
fineness of his works.
Again, of
the Italian schools, that of Venice was the
all
most admired by Yelazquez, who went purposely to that

to purchase
Titian
and
is
pictures
to be seen in all his senatorial dignity of portrait,
power of color
his glorious
pounded
IV.; at Madrid, therefore,
Philip
for
city
flesh rather, if
oh, glorious, ravishing color
not rubies and emeralds, and which, in
spite of unlearned drawing, carries
before
all
it,
Titian was,
indeed, a painter.
By
of Cadore,
Tiziano Vecellio,
forty-three pictures, a
horseback, before
its
museum
1417-1516, there are
of themselves.
Charles V. on
recent restoration, was the finest eques-
trian picture in the world
it is
Velazquez, yet equally true to
more sublime and

life;
a king, aye, every inch a king,
poetical than
the knight-errant emperor,

inspires
an awe,
like
Theodore of Dryden, pursuing the perjured Honoria

Titian's
own
Portrait, venerable
and
intelligent
two charming sketches, colored with pounded
and
flesh
the
695,
Calisto,
and
tur-
quoise skies; they have been draped and painted over, owing to
Spanish prudery; the drawing
is
not very accurate, but Titian
was eighty-four years old when these were produced.
E, the
celebrated Gloria, or apotheosis of Charles V. and Philip
II.,
who, kings on earth, now appear as suppliants before the King

of heaven,
and the angelic
This,
court.
by many considered
the masterpiece of Titian, was painted, in his best time, for
Charles V.,
who
hung where
his
until Philip II.
directed
by
his will that it should
body was buried
moved
his father's
it
always be
remained at San Yuste,
remains to the Escorial.
BLOODY MARY.
155
Next, observe 756, the Punishment of Sisyphus, painted for
Mary
the bloody
Irish
dog
emperor
L.
C.
this picture
belonged to King Charles
son, Philip
his
is
Head
and
portrait of Titian's daughter,
tortured,
it
individual
it is
was painted
here
the
is
116, C. L. Salome, with
is
said to be a
the face be not strictly
if
181, Prometheus, captured and
for the
bloody Mary; "here
and the chain, and
rock, the vulture,
young, and in armor, rich in
II.,
of the Baptist; this exquisite picture
correct beauty,
I.
his favorite
and pain; 169,
in his privacy, with his look of care
costume, delicate in form and feature.

the
Y. with
C. L., Charles
165,
all
the
is
the proud can feel of
pain;" compare the poetical treatment by our Italian, with 121,
the butcher production of the practical Spaniard, Ribera;
JEschylus contrasted with Torquemada
Adonis, glorious; there

Gallery
up, all that
Adam
812,
Adam's head
usual in Titian
ous; but
or
it
Yenus and
near, then
National
the demi-tints
tell
becomes form and
and Eve; observe the pentimentos

favorite,
in
and no wonder,
than
fleshes heavier
852, C. L., Offering to Fecundity; marvelall
Malthusians, for never were so
many
such playful living children better grouped and painted;
unfortunately
it
has been spotted by retouches
when
picture which,
the
when
more sprawling and the
shock
will
is
was Rubens'
this
for the forms are

is
when one
flat
is
801, C. L.,
inferior repetition in our
seen from a certain distance,
meaning
an
is
it is
at
Rome,
in
the
was the
this
Ludovisi Gallery, was
study and the making of X. Poussin.
854, Victory of
Leponto, painted by Titian when ninety-one years old; even in

his
age
monious
pillars
live
his
effect
wonted
fine,
fires;
the coloring
is
rich,
the har-
but the composition feeble; the rows of
look like organ-pipes; and the angel seems as
been thrown out of window, and must break
its
if it
neck
had
Philip
156
II., in his
red breeches and yellow boots, places his naked son,
Fernando, somewhat awkwardly on the table
however, as
a curiosity of the sustained art of Titian, this pieture deserves

notice.
864, C. L., a Bacchanal
abandoned by Theseus
before
this,
Ariadne, in the Isle of Naxos,
its restaur-acion,
was one of
the finest pictures in the world; joyous mirth, and a dance

of light never were so colored
Bacchus and Ariadne,
a companion to the inferior
it is
in the
National Gallery at London.
868, E., Repose in Egypt, a superb landskip; this
engraved by Bonasoni.
the subject
878, C. L., portrait of Isabella, wife

915, a magnificent
of Charles V., superbly painted costume.

Portrait;
is
what a subtlety
of intellect
observe the effect of
the blue sash.
Jacobo
Robusti
Tintoretto,
il
almost naked.
Council, in a
Tintoretto,
it
1512-1594,
Venice,
of
Magdalen,
490, E., a
worthily sustains his master's style.
a singular picture of the Doge, seated in
6*79,
superb saloon of state, was long ascribed to

is
now
Yenice, 1556-1618;
ascertained to be by Pietro Malombra,

it
art, original portraits,
highly interesting, both as a
is
and
local costume.
704,
La
work of
Gloria, the
original sketch for the picture in the Doge's palace, at Yenice,
and bought there by Yelazquez;
and a
fricassee of legs
it,
however,
is
heavy
in color,
and arms; the man with a large head
in
the corner seems scared and disappointed, as he well might be
with such a Paradise.
Paul Veronese, 1528-1588, appears
in all
his
gorgeous
brocade, splendor of drapery, and fine portraiture; notice 453,

E.,
Marriage of Cana
C. L.,
and
it
belonged to Charles
Yenus and Adonis, a very
effect;
fine
I.
and 843,
picture of great repose
the flesh and rich draperies are equal to Titian: 876,
C. L. an allegory, Yirtue and Yice; neither are very attractive
MADRAZO
and the youth
stupid,
is
awkward
attitudes are very
althongh finely painted, and the

896, Cain and his family, a mag-
nificent composition, a picture of
true wife,
brown
who
will
harmony with the sentiment

composed,
finely
wanting in
and breaking
but
specimens,
it
somewhat
but
tedious
is
accessories to the beasts
describe
to
grey,
green,
many and
and
own
841, Jacobo, his
615,
Leandro, Orpheus, and ani-
fine
finely colored:
specimen
now
detail,
Buffeted,
Christ
school,
Cano, on being shown

for they
Raphael,
by the Director
and the
jNo.
Madrazo,
Sefior
criticism of
Alonso
a badly executed crucifix, " Forgive
know what they
fine, rich,
like figure of "
Traveling
730,
In the Escudas
do."
varias observe Xo. 401, E., Ruebens, 1517-1640.
Emmaus, a
101 Leandro,
take a general view of the rest
which suggests the somewhat irreverent
632, E.,
In the Bajada a varias Escuelas, avoid
of the gallery.
them, Lord
Portrait.
Having examined the Spanish

Venetians in
fine
cattle-show
these
620 Jacobo 1510-1592, Dives and Lazarus
Coppersmiths at Work, a
at
sombre
for the sacred figures are often only
The Money-changers in the Temple,
382, a
the
899, Christ disputing with the
or Bassaxos, there are
and oxen,
pictures of sheep
halo, are in
effect.
Of the Da Pontes,
mals
man's despair consoled by a
not desert the father of her children
landskip, lowering sky,
Doctors,
15T
DIRECTOR.
brown
The Supper
painting, although, the Silenus-
mine host " destroys the dignity of sentiment
515, Ignacio Iriarte, 1620-1685, a Landskip
say that he was
fit
Murillo used to
to paint scenes in heaven, which
must be
understood as meaning Andalucia, the elysium of these local

Sevillians
526 and 532 are other specimens,
yet,
compared to
the Italian, Dutch, and English landskip painters, Iriarte
is
158
very second-rate; but in Spain, as
the
classical anci-
was only an accessory or conventional,
landskip
ents,
among
seldom really treated as a principal either in art or

ture
their efforts
were vague bald
generalities,
no
individuality.
poet's feeling
the pen and
pencil were sculpturesque rather than picturesque,
Again, a taste for landskip
and few Orientals or Spaniards have any

beyond
they love the country, not for
to themselves; but even
often so blunted
when
is
being
acquired,
itself,
and personal enbut as in relation
some of our gentleman farmers are
by professional
of draining, where
man
feeling for nature
local associations, or notions of profit
joyment
sensi-
air,
They seldom saw nature with the
combined with the painter's eye
the absorbing object.
litera-
with no true
graphic quality, no precision of touch, no local color,

bility,
and
habits, as only to
Durand would go crazy with
be thinking
delight,
and
talking of bullocks which would drive Paul Potter mad,
are solely speculating on what per score the carcase will fetch,
sinking the
Now
offal.
examine the German, Flemish, and French schools,

a circular saloon by themselves, not that
which are collected
in
they have much in
common with each
other.
The Spaniards
have very properly placed Gaspar Poussin, who was born at
Rome, among
Poussin,
the Italians, and yet have included Kicholaz
and Claude
among
the
French;
France, aged 12, a pastry-cook's boy, and
but Claude. left
pies, capital
ones no
doubt, he would have lived and died making in that paradise of
transcendental culinary
artistes.
In beautiful poetical
Italy,
the nurse of art, where there are more altars than ovens, more
painters than pastry-cooks, his other dormant capabilities were
awaked; then and there the mighty genius, imprisoned
in a
jam-pot, burst forth to better things; and the youth having
GARDEN OF HESPERUS.
been born
became a great
life,
again in a
artistically
abandoned
159
new and
congenial country,
Italian painter: and, like him, Poussin, early in
Rome, he became
country
unpicturesque
his
so
Roman,
re-educated
and utterly
majestic, historical,
un-French, that he could only breathe a classical
when compelled by Louis XIV.
man
serious
thus,
which
is
their
died, unless re-
Both are
stored to a better atmosphere and scenery.

tially Italians as painters,
air:
to return to fickle France, this
and would have
pined, sickened,
at
essen-
whole attraction; and
be doubted, compare their style and sentiment to the
if this
veritable
Frenchmen, whose works are hung near them, to
the Jouvenets, Lafosses, Mignards, and Rigauds.
wit,
As Holbein
and Vandyke were formed by painting English gentlemen and

ladies,
the noblest and most beautiful models in the creation, so
Claude and Pousson were created by the sunny

ples
and
Rome,
antiquities of Italy,
and they both
lived
classical Tiber,
must be decided by
their fruit,
Their nationality
and they are the golden apples
of a garden of Hesperus, and to both
may be
adage, non ubi nascitur sed ubi pascitur.
land,
and died at
not on those of the common-place
Ingrata patria ne ossa quidem
change
the tem-
adopted country; and their ashes repose on the
their
banks of the
Seine.
skies,
his country, it should
where he
is
applied the old

If Claude
is
to
be for nature-worshipping Eng-
best estimated, and where his finest works
are to be found.
The
Poussins, both Gaspar and Nicolas, are first-rate.
Ob-
serve 942, C. L., Claude Gilee, Lorraiee. 1600-1682, Ruins at
Rome, with the Coliseum; the
figures are
Claude was accustomed to
say, that
gave away
is
his figures.
It
by Philipo Laura, as
he sold his landskips, but
doubtful, however, whether even
better-drawn figures by another hand really
tell,
either in form or
160
dashed
color, so well as those
who
in
by the landskip painter
himself,
used them not for themselves, but as aids and accessories,
which a figure painter would forget and convert them into

945, Nicolas Poussin, of
principals.
94 ?, C. L., Claude, a Sunset;

figures,
sin,
full
Normandy, 1594-1665:
except the Shepherd, are by Courtois.
Bacchus and Nymphs, a most
948, N. Pous-
classical group, in
two curious hunting
landskip; 1006, 1020,
The
of exquisite repose.
a splendid
pictures,
by Lucas
Cranach, 14T2-1552: the Elector John of Saxony entertains

Charles Y.,
The
is
who
is
by
to be recognised
buildings and costume are truly old
Golden Fleece.
his
German
then there
a sea of hartshorn, and a marvelous contempt of perspective.
1081, C. L., Claude, a superb Sunrise, with sea and architecture; the groups
embarking are by Courtois; No. 51
in
Lib.
Yer. :" 1082, C. L., Claude, a Morning Scene, rather dark, and
in
an
earlier style; figures
by P. Laura: 1086,
Landskip, with a Ford; also in an early

P. Laura.
in
want of
These Claudes, when we

lining,
last
C. L., Claude,
with figures, by
style,
saw them, were much
but were pure as the day they were painted.
These truly Italian gems are surrounded by pictures, of whose

nationality there can be
no mistake
XI Y.
foils,
periwigs act like
but the clinquant Louis
by contrasting
style;
how
the
simple feeling of a nature pure and undefiled soars above the

theatrical
Now
de
and
artificial
pass the Flemish and
Paso are examples
fa
In the Gakria
Schools.
of the Neapolitan
of the seventeenth century:
remarkable, whose
Dutch
and Bolognese
among them Luca Giordano
presto style, fatal facility,
sumption led to the utter decline of painting.
no excellence to mortals without

of love and type of beauty,
artists
labor.
is
and hasty pre-
The gods grant
Yenus, the mother
was united to the hard-working
HANDMAID OF RELIGION.
By Luca
Yulcan.
Susanna
are, 1088,
Hercules: 1090, Perseus: 1094,
1096, Repentance of St. Peter
161
1098, Rinaldo and
Armida.
There
is
an apartment of State, called
where the royal family repose
La
Sala
del descanso,
after the fatigue of visiting the
Museo, where was hung, by order of Ferdinand VII., a painting of his landing at Puerto de Santa Maria, by Aparicio
anything so bad never was painted or conceived

especial description of this single picture
was
and yet an
by
sold
itself at
the entrance of the Museo, which speaks volumes as to the
some
and
servility
artistical
who
ignorance of those
ful-
directed
the taste of Spain.
The Flemish and Dutch
pictures
come the
last in the
The long
and are of the highest quality and very pure.
logue,
connexion between Spain and the
Low
constant supply of the best works
being valued by Spaniards so
much
and
Cata-
Countries ensured a
from not
hitherto,
own and
as those of their
the Italian masters, they have escaped the fatal restauracion.
The Spaniard, long accustomed
of religion, associates the altar with

class
to
all
painting of a high
accordingly, the low, earthy doings of the
him
to be vulgar,
handmaid
to see the art, the
and beneath the dignity of
Dutch seem
art
while the
compensating truth and beauty of their landskip are

a nation which
is
by no means keenly
the country and nature
The best
bens,
alive to the
charms of
by Ru-
pictures here of these schools, are those
in spite of his
want of
sensuality, worse conceptions,
like
in Spain.
purity, his occasional
and
compensating power of a glowing,
which shines
on
itself.
Vandyke, and Antonio Moro, who was long
Rubens,
lost
ill-selected models,
rich,
a light from within
has the
and harmonious
nor can one
Helot
fail
color,
to be
162
charmed with bold animal nature, riotous impulses,

energy of action, and pulpy delineation of
Yandyke
is
real
life,
and blood.
flesh
the Yelazquez of England, with the advantage of
better models, both male
and female,
for
he painted the
aris-
tocracy of Great Britain, the most manly, finely formed, and
Again, he had the advantage of paint-
beatiful in the world.
ing ladies, whose portraits were rarely taken, from the then
Yandyke is as elegant and satiny

dark and stately. The specimens of Wouver-
jealous habits of Spaniards.

as Yelazquez
mans
is
are beyond
all price,
and gems of purest
Those by
art.
Both, are very
Teniers, Snyders, Breughel, P. Neefs.
fine
but
here again, as in the Italian and Spanish schools, the collection

is
very imperfect.
ters
as
Steen,
There
is little
or nothing of such great mas-
Rembrandt, Carl du Jardin, Cuyp, Hobbema, Jan
"mine
jolly
host,"
Yandervelt,
Mieris,
Backhuisen,
Yanderneer, Ostade, Ruisdael, Adrian and William Yandervelde,
Paul Potter,
Dow, Paul
To
Terburg,
Metzu, Gerard
Bril, etc.
any particular description of the wilderness of
give
monkeys by
Dutchmen
Yan Hooghe,
Teniers, the dogs, game, kitchenware,
of Ostade,
would be tedious as
and drunken
to count the cattle
of the Bassans, although intelligible, and therefore delightful,
to even the meanest capacities
since,
where one person com-
prehends the ideality of Raphael, the sublimity of
a thousand
will relish
a true delineation of a flask of beer, and
the humor of the boor
who
drinks
it.
item accuracy and working out of
your practical
men
M. Angelo,
Again, the business-like
details, are
understood by
of business and common sense, as they
no demand on the imagination
make
while effects produced by broad
masses, indistinct shado wings out, neglect of accessories, and
appeals to the mind, positively appear, especially where there
UNDOUBTED ORIGINALS.
is
163
But an appre-
no mind, to be dishonest and unworkmanlike.
ciation of all this mechanical detail
contract
lost
is
and bona
on the Spaniard, who
fide fulfilment of
at best a bungling
is
and one who sometimes promises rather than pays
operative,
or performs.
The
lover of cinquecento goldsmith-work should,
inquire
tazzas,
the
for
superb
of above
collection
by all means,
a hundred cups,
and exquisite jeweled plate which have recently been
removed to the Museo, by the laudable exertions of Yicente

Carderera, from the shameful neglect in which they were long
abandoned
in the
academy of San Fernando,
and damaged condition as they were
among them observe
particularly a
rising out of gold, studded
in the disorder
by French ravagers;
left
Mermaid, with emerald
tail,
with rubies, by Cellini; and a cup,
supported by a female.
While on the
Kew Museum,
subject of art,
it
may be
which was opened to the public by Espartero, on
the anniversary of the dos de Mayo, 1842.
Atocha, and
as well to take the
is
called
Museo
la Trinidad,
It
is
in the Calle
de
because established in
the suppressed convent of that name.
Among
the best things, of which
a regular account, as nothing
in
is
it
is
order,
impossible to give
and changes con-
stantly take place, observe the series of pictures representing
when persecuted by
the sufferings of the Carthusian monks,
Henry VIII., and painted by Carducho,

Paular.
Observe particulary
picture which once
ignorant
fill
their
it
as its history
cloisters,
may be
useful
" undoubted originals" in Spain.
belonged to the Capuchinos, at
monks exchanged
El
Jubilio de Porciuncula, a large
was by Murillo
to those about to purchase
In our time
el
for the convent of
it
for
some
Seville,
whose
modern daubs, to
with one Benjarano, a bungling picture-
164
Although much injured from exposure to sun and
restorer.
air,
the surface was then pure; Benjarano began
all
over,
declined
and then offered

it
at
last
speculation,
Mr. Williams
for JS120,
it
who
was purchased by Joaquin Cortes,
it
(director of the Seville
to
it
by painting
Academy,)
who worked much on
for
it
Madrazo,
for
180, on
and then handed
himself,
it
over to Sefior Bueno, one of the most daring of his familiars.

Finally 2,000 was asked for the picture, which eventually
bought by the Infante Don Sebastion,
on the
which
subject,
is
very
common
One word
900.
for
was
no Franciscan
in Spain, as
convents were, without their Porciuncula, which alludes to their
grand
jubilee, held
when
every 1st of August,
all
penitents
who visited the temporary cave or chapel arranged in the

convent, obtained instant absolution from
jubilee
was
called " toties quoties."
all sins,
It arose thus:
hence the
St. Francis,
the founder, retired in 1206, to the wildest retreats in
Monte
Alverno, "nel crudo sasso infra Tever ed Arno," near Assisi,
and there repaired the small deserted church, Santa Maria

which also was called
degli Angioli,
la Porciuncula, because
portion of some property of some Benedictines
the favors he here received from the Yirgin,
self
the scene generally painted
with thorns,
Saviour,
when he was
who brought him
bloomed from
here founded
he received the stigmata; here he died; from
his order; here
holy of holies
his rods,
spot, that "if a
by only entering
his scourging
him-
by the Virgin and
red and white roses, which had
killed all the other
this grotto,
:"
visited
is
became the
it
and granted such an immunity to the
man had
newly-baptized infant
men
in the world,
he would come out as pure as a
hence
this
cave was soon prodigiously
frequented, whereupon the Spanish Franciscans induced
Pontiff to
concede to each of their convents
its
the
imaginary
A ROYAL ROAD.
cave, in
165
which the same benefits could be obtained by
offered pious donations.
all
who
Accordingly, in their grotto chapel,
a painting explained the legend to those
who
could not read.
EXCURSION FROM MADRID.

LA GRANJA.
Three days spent
in the
museum
of
Madrid were hardly
which may be con-
cient for the proper study of this gallery,
sidered the
first in
Europe,
it
suffi-
contains specimens of almost every
school of painting from the time of Albert Durer to the period

of Raphael.
Months might have been
becoming acquainted with a
profitably passed in
collection of art
which
is
rich in the
subjects of Yelazquez, the master of the Spanish easel
oppressive heats of summer,

July,) led us to seek for a
(for
we
are
now
other,
less
La
Granja,
and the more
more favorable climate among some
it
We
all
con-
being more accessible than any
likely to interest us,
because
it
from the inroads of man, nature having been
there in
but the
at the end of
one of the numerous royal retreats of the nobility.

cluded upon
left
her primitive and charming beauty.
was then the residence of the queen, a

a large concourse of her people,
fact
who were
has suffered
to remain
Besides,
it
which drew together

attracted thither
by
the presence of her royal person at the Court.
Having secured a
Company
seat in the diligence at the office of the
in Calle de Alcala,
we
started about ten o'clock in
the evening, and were soon trotted out on the Camino
road which
is
grudged on
this
unnecessarily magnificent,
real,
no expense being
highway of the queen, leading from the
by the banks of the Manzanares to her summer
capital
resort in the
166
After crossing the Plaza de Hierro, the toll-house,
mountains.
and huge bridge, San Fernando, with
Madrid are soon
desert environs of
heavy
its
statues, the
The
entered.
contrast of
leaving a crowded city increased the forlorn loneliness of the

night.
On
the Sierra Neva, and
The scenery
Ildefonso.
we found
ourselves at the foot of
San
shortly afterwards within sight of
at this point
was
splendid, a jumble
of mountains and rock, with glorious pines flinging their wild
arms athwart the
The road was constructed
precipices.
reckless expense for the personal convenience of royalty.
passing the puerto,

siteo } in
July,
we descended
at a
After
into the village, or royal
which the Court always pass the hot months of June,
and September.
Here, in an excellent
inn,
kept during
the season in the Casa de Infantes, a part of the detached buildings of the palace,
we found refreshment
seats in the diligence for Segovia
ing old
city,
until called to take our
that venerable and
which we preferred to
visit
before settling
our lodgings in the neighborhood of the palace of
La
interest-
down
at
Granja.
SEGOVIA.
Now, Segovia
is
only two leagues
off,
and a pleasant hour's
drive.
Descending from
La
Granja
into the plains,
we soon reached
the ancient city of Segovia, and putting up at the best inn,
meson grande on the plaza, one of the worst in
soon learned
all
about
this
grand
hotel,
ail
Spain
el
we
which remained the
genuine specimen of an unmodernized Castilian khan.
Our
last
view of the town before entering
for its wonders,
it
had prepared us
by showing the magnificent proportions of
its
THE "SPAINS."
ancient aqueduct and the towers of
161
This fine
Cathedral.
its
aqueduct, one of the most interesting relics of the works of
Romans, the Cathedral, and the Alcaz, or Moorish
the
among the most remarkable
are
on the
while,
pillars of
palace,
structures of the kingdom,
the inner courts of the palaces and
over the doorways of several private houses, traces
may be
found of the most elegant and delicate specimens of
still
scrolls of
Arabesque patterns, which
display the highest invention in art.
Thus, in these out-of-the-
Moorish workmanship, and
way
towns, one
is
led to discover the true
tion of these words, " the Spains."

different nations
Here,
meaning and
fascina-
in the vestiges of the
which once swept over her lands, one remarks
Moor
the footprints of the Goth, the Arab, and the
thence arose the
many
diversities of habitudes,
and
manners and
customs which would have otherwise been inexplicable without some such reference to the prestige of their lost originals.
At
the capital, these contrarieties are occasional and accidental
only, because, as
Spains," so
many
Spain herself
but an aggregate of "the
Madrid may be considered both
as the union of
who have been drawn
together by the
different people
natural
is
centralization of a
and as the teeming
metropolis,
mother of an heterogeneous progeny.

study the peculiarities of each people,
Therefore, in order to
it
is
necessary to visit
the provinces.
The cathedral
looking proudly
before alluded to stands on the main square,
down on
that line the Plaza.
grand.
The
church,
Its
or
the miserable old Spanish houses

inner proportions
anti-choral,
is
its
steeple tower, extending over the
ing country, was glorious.
simple and
constructed
marble, and the cloisters are elegantly lighted.
from
are
of
rich
The prospect
town and surround-
168
Upon
relic of
Some
leaving this church, I proceeded to the Alcazar
Moors
the
now used
of the apartments
liant Oriental
still
Academy
as an
for the Artillery.
retained the remnants of
its
bril-
pendants and arabesque ornaments, hanging from
their roofs ; the one especially
termed the trunk room, had been
formerly used by Alphonso the Wise, for astronomical purposes.
This quaint old building
sits
superbly upon the heights at the
back of the town, and looks quite picturesquely from the banks
of the Eresma, which flows underneath the base of
Whilst walking along

elegantly sculptured
this river, I noticed
work on the doors
its walls.
some remnants of
of the ruins of the
Parral, and near by, under the sheltering roof of a cave, I
stopped awhile to watch the movements of a couple of gip-
who had taken up their abode at

their camp implements and utensils, were
sies
like
Spanish beggars, thus forming a
The group was much admired, and

were the
for they
recalled to
my
Spain, and his
Segovia
common
is
first
fit
that spot, and with

regaling themselves,
subject for the artist.
their actions closely studied,
Gitanos I had seen in Spain, and vividly
mind the
interesting pages of Barrow's Bible in
work on the
Zincali.
name and origin, seca and sego being a

Humboldt (Urb. 188) enumerates no less than
of Iberian
prefix:
twenty-two instances; while Briga "town,"
is
still
commoner
termination.
The long
stands
city of Segovia,
with
its
on the rocky knoll which
narrow irregular
rises east
and west
valley with the Alcazar perched on the west point.
to the north
by the trout stream Eresma, which
the Alcazar by the clamorous rivulet

of these
el
streets,
is
It
is
in
girdled
joined below
Clamores
the banks
streams are wooded and pretty, and contrast with
the bleak and barren
hills.
The strong town
is
encircled
WOOD, WORK A FEE.
169
by very picturesque but dilapidated old walls with round

towers, built
by Alonso VI., which are
advantage from the
hill
of the Calvario
specimen of an old-fashioned Castilian
to be seen to great
it is
city,
altogether a good
with quaint houses,
balconies,
and a Prout-like plaza.
3300
feet
above the
tion,
once exceeding 30,000, having dwindled to
It
is still
sea,
It
is
very cold, being above
and has much decayed
the popula-
less
than 9000.
the see of a bishop, suffragan to Toledo.
According to Colmenares, Tubal
peopled Spain, then
first
Hercules founded Segovia, for which Hispan erected the bridge

as they call the aqueduct, although
not
men
over water.
The
brings water over men,
it
city bears "
el
Puente" on
with one of the heads of Pompey's sons looking over
Roman
work, from
its
its shield,
This
it.
resemblance to the masonry of Alcantara
and Merida, was probably erected by Trajan, but neither Segovia nor
its
aqueduct are mentioned by the ancients, with
such mighty works seem to be things of course.
was respected by the Goth, but broken down
Moors
of Toledo,
who sacked Segovia and
arches. It remained in ruin until
August
whom
This aqueduct
in
1071 by the
destroyed thirty-five
26, 1483,
when
Isabella
employed a monk of the Parral convent, one Juan Escovedo,

who, born in the Asturias, about 1547, and the son of a mere
carpenter,
had the good
and therefore was the

in Spain
taste to imitate the
first
when he went
to restore the
model before him,
Grseco-Romano
style
to Seville to report the completion of
the repairs, Isabella gave him for his fee
all
the
wood work
of
the scaffoldings.
The new work
is
intermixed with the old, and occurs chiefly
near the angles of la Concepcion and

also built the bridges over the
San
Eresma.
mences with single arches, which

a
rise
Francisco.
Escovedo
The aqueduct com-
higher as the dip of the
TRACES OF THE ROMAN AXD MOOR.
170
ground deepens,
until they
uniform in height
tier are
being 102
become double.
the three central are the highest,
This noble work
feet.
Those of the upper
constructed of granite
is
without cement or mortar; and, like other similar erections of

the Romans, unites simplicity, proportion, solidity, and utility,
and
grandeur
its
rather the result of these qualities than the
is
An
intention of the architect.
inscription formerly ran
between
the tiers of the central arches, and the learned strive in vain to
make out what
for the pins of the bronze letters
remain
tracted.
built
the words were, guessing from the holes which
which have been ex-
According to some antiquarians the aqueduct was
by one
Licinius, but the unlearned people call
it el
Puente
del Diallo, " the devil's bridge," because his Satanic majesty
was
in love
favors,
with a Segoviana, and offered his services for her
when
she, tired of
going up and down
hill
to fetch water,
promised to consent, provided he would build an aqueduct in

one night, which he did
One
stone, however,
having been
found wanting, the church decided the contract to be void, and

so the hard-working wicked one
was done.
the lower Segovians about Trajan,
and
especially as a Pontifex
The aqueduct, be
Juan, in
its
its
etc.
It
is
they prefer the devil,
maximus.
author
who
it
may,
is
well seen from
beautiful perspective, overtopping the
The grandest point
is
vain to talk to
San
pigmy town.
from the corner of the Calle de Gascos,
but the stones have suffered from houses having been built up
against the arches, and have been discolored by chimney smoke
and drips from Cerbatanas, or gutters and

in vain proposed in
pipes.
1803 to Charles IY. to remove
unsightly causes of injury.
However,
in
plan was
all
these
September, 1806, the
carriage of the pregnant ambassadress of
Sweden having been
upset by these encroachments, whereby she had a miscarriage.
FLORID GOTHIC PILE.
Ill
the king ordered the arches to be cleared.
have opened the whole of the Plaza
It
was intended
Azoquejo (zoq
del
the Arabic Suk, a place), and thus to have
square with the aqueduct on one
side,
from
made a grand
exposed in
all its
The French invasion marred the scheme
majesty.
coco,
to
unveiled
of question-
able artificial amelioration, for the very irregularity and meanness of the buildings around render the aqueduct the emphatic
feature, as
The
and nobler by the
soars larger
it
force of contrast.
cathedral, a noble florid Gothic pile, built of beautiful
warm-colored stone,
seen to great advantage from the curi-
is
ous old irregular plaza.
It
deserves great attention
was the
last of the
one of the
is
like the old
Bath church
pure Gothic cathedrals
a dolphin, setting as a southern sun in

twilight or decrepitude
the
finest in Spain,
and
of 1522,
it
that style died like
without
all its glories,
square tower, crowned with a
cupola, rises 330 feet high, having been lowered twenty-two feet
from fears of lightning.
The panorama over the
city,
convents, gigantic aqueduct, and mountain distances,
gardens,
is
superb.
The older cathedral was almost destroyed by the reformers on

Comuneros in May, 1520, who commenced business by pulling
down
churches, hanging the authorities, plundering the rich,
and burning the houses
for the public good.
The new building was begun

non and
is
east end
rior,
1525 by Juan Gil de Onta-
son Rodrigo, their beautiful cathedral at Sala-
his
manca having been chosen

exterior
in
as a model.
The west
front of the
perhaps somewhat bald and unornamented, while the
is
over-crocketed, and the pinnacles small
however,
is
light
and very
striking
from the simple, bold,
and well-arranged designs of the arches and vaulting

the windows are
high altar
is
filled
the inte-
most of
with stained glass of fine colors.
The
enclosed by lofty iron railings, relieved by gilding,
112
somewhat
after the exquisite purcloses of the Certoso of Pavia.
The great
composed of precious marbles, was put up
retablo,
by
for Charles III.
The
Sabintini.
trascoro
is
enriched with
the salmon-colored marbles of which the beautiful diamond-
formed pavement
The
dral
partly composed.
is
cheerful Gothic cloisters belonged to the former cathe-
they were taken down, and put up again by Juan Cam-
pero in 1524, a triumph of
Among
art.
The
that of Diego de Covarrubias, obt. 1516.

closed eyes and clasped hands,
mark
He
II.
by
also the
was
tomb
fine
baby
Don
with
Re-
Pedro, son of Henrique
from the window of the Alcazar in 1366
Judging from
he must have been a
his statue
for nine years old.
frail beautiful
fine prelate,
arrayed in pontificalibus.
of the Infante
let fall
his nurse.
is
the sepulchres observe
Here
also lies
Jewess by creed, but Christian
in
Maria
heart
Saltos,
;
she
was
about to be cast from a rock for adultery, when she invoked

the Yirgin,
who
visibly
appeared and
was then baptized Maria

and died
let
her
down
del Salto, of the Leap,
gently.
She
became a
saint,
in 1231.
The Alcazar
like Cervantes,
in
which Gil Bias was confined, for Le Sage,
has given an historical and local habitation to
the airy nothings of fancy, rises like the prow of Segovia over
the waters-meet below.
The great keep
bartizans, or turrets, at the angles
Castilian castles, but the slate
portions
mar the
effect.
studded with those
which are so common
and French-like roofs
The building was
and was magnificently repaired
who
is
in
in
in other
originally Moorish,
1452-58 by Henrique IY.,
resided and kept his treasures in
it.
The Alcazar was
ceded to the crown in 1164 by the hereditary Alcaide, the
Conde de Chinchon, whose ancestor had
comed
in
it
Charles
I.
He
so hospitably wel-
lodged there Wednesday, 13th Sep-
LARGE TROUT."
173
tember, 1623, and supped, says the record, on "certaine trouts

of extraordinary greatnesse."
made
The
castle-palace
into an artillery college, and, as
it
was
at last
one of the few in
is
Spain which the French did not destroy, remains as a specimen

of
what
so
many
eral character
is
The gen-
others were before their invasion.
Gotho-Moorish: the ceilings and cornices and
friezes are splendidly gilt, especially in the Salo de
Trono and
Salo de Recibimiento ; the inscriptions in one room give the
names of many kings and queens from Catalina, 1412, down to

Philip II., 1592, whose shield quarters the arms of
right of his wife,
window
In the Sala de
Mary.
of which the infante
was
England
in
Reyes (from the
los
are some singular
let fall)
begun by Alonso IX.,
statues of Spanish kings, which were
continued in 1442 by Henrique IV., and added to in 1581 by

Philip II.
saloon, in
The Pieza
which Alonso
moving round the
el
earth,
were interrupted by a
and as a warning
Cordon
is
a singular trunk-headed
Sabio ventured to doubt the sun's
whereupon
astronomical studies
his
flash of lightning, in
memorial of which,
for the future, the rope of St. Francis
modeled and put up.
The
del
The king had worn
chapel contains some fine arabesques
it
as a penance.
the views from the
windows are striking, although not quite so
floral
turesque as represented to Gil Bias by the governor,
what over-colored
was
and
pic-
who some-
things for the honor of Castile.
Descending now to the Eresma by Piterta Castellana, look
up
at the quaint Alcazar from the Fuencisla, near the Clamores,
now doubly clamorous from

Naiades
Fons
chattering
of the rustling stream.
stillans,
was
called
La
The
washerwomen, the
cliff
above Fuencisla,
PefLa grajera, because the crows
nestled there to pick the bodies of criminals cast

this
Tarpeian rock.
The
down from
cypress opposite the Carmelitas des-
174
colzas
marks the spot where Maria Saltos lighted unhurt
in the chapel
is
and
the identical image of the Yirgin which saved
The image was miraculously concealed during the time
her.
when
the Moors possessed Segovia, but re-appeared on this site
the Christians recovered the town, and thereupon the convent
was
and
built
Now
Casa
endowed.
richly
turn on to the
left
up the valley of the Eresma to the
de Moneda, or mint, which
rebuilt
by Henrique IV.
German machinery by
national coinage
in
was founded by Alonso VII.,
1455, and repaired and fitted with
Formerly
Philip II. in 1586.
was struck
fill
the
here, as the river afforded water-
power, and the adjoining Alcazar was the treasury: in 1130

the gold and silver coinage was transferred to Madrid
nothing
is
struck but copper, and for this Segovia
as the distance
is
is
so great to
curious church, built in 1204
which
hence
nestles
its
terrenal.
this
amid
name and
la
Vera Cruz, & very
and the square tower.
vines
and gardens, under a barren rock,
the proverb,
Las
huertas del Parral paraiso
Juan, the celebrated Marques de Villena, founded

site of
a celebrated duel where, asi cuenta la
he defeated three antagonists.
Juan and
his wife
The superb
sepulchres
Maria, kneeling with an attendant, have
been barbarously whitewashed.

library
is
the Parral, a once wealthy Jeronomite convent,
convent on the
historia,
of
is
is ill-selected,
by the Templars, but now going
to ruin, with the octagon forms
Higher up
now
Rio Tinto, from whence the metal
Adjoining on a slope
brought.
The
cloister
and
ceilings of the
and refectory are worth notice; the tower was raised
twenty-nine feet in 1529, by Juan Campero.
1*5
SHEEP SHEARING.
WOOL STAPLE.
Segovia was entered by General Frere, June
7,
1808, who,
notwithstanding no sort of resistance was made, sacked

Medellin; for he too, like his model, Victor, began
drummer boy.
depended on
Its prosperity
its staple,
it,
la,
as a
life
wool, but
now only a few

suburb San Lorenzo.
then the flocks were eaten up by the wolf, and
poor cloth manufactories languish in the
In 1829 some improved machinery was introduced, which the
The Cabanas,
hand-loom weavers destroyed.
or sheep-flocks
of Segovia, furnished the fleeces, and the Eresma, a peculiar
water for washing the wool
grand attractions of the place

the Escorial,
el
the vast flocks of the
into large Esqnileos, or quadrangles of
Sudadero, and
dores,
see
monks
of
Paular, and other proprietors, were driven in
which a " Factor " presided.
clip
and the Mcsta,
The sheep-washings and shearings were formerly the
Ford.
May
for Merinos
when
First, the
well sweated
who handed them
had
two
stories,
sheep went into the
their legs tied
by Liga-
over to the shearers, each of
from eight to ten sheep a day.
over
When
whom
shorn, the animals
next were taken to the Empcgadero, to be tarred and branded;

after
which the whole
or head shepherds,
lot
when
were looked over by the Capatazes,
the old and useless were selected for
the butcher; the spared were carefully attended to, as being

liable to
take cold after shearing, and
processes, food
and drink were
and the bad,
las
then weighed, or
if
sold at once,
washed,
is
sent to the Lavadero.
classes of wool,
The wool
Cardas, set aside.
produce,
is
During
plentifully carried
employed, by persons called Echavinos.

Recilidores,
die.
if.
all
these
about to
is
all
sorted by
The
pila, or
destined to be
There are three different
which are determined by an appraiser, the apar-
176
tador, of
whom
there
from eight to three; then,
fallen off since the invasion, as
many barns and

capital,
buildings were destroyed, which, from
have never been restored: the subsequent
America completed the

was
The value has
a guild at Segovia.
is
The common
ruin.
coarse, but strong; a
little,
too,
want of
loss of
South
cloth
made here
however, of a finer
sort, called
Henna, from a sort of Guanaco, or South American goat, was
made
for the rich clergy,
The
have ceased.
with a
nap;
soft
now
those customers
extent, however, of the former boasted
merce must be somewhat discounted,
for the real staples
comwere
Xergas (Arabice Xercas), serges and Panos jpardos:
coarse
these, in the time of
Juan
II., sold
only for 40 maravedis the
yard, while cloth of Florence fetched 167, and fine scarlet of
London, 400;
home manufactures were
in fact, the
by the poor, and
for liveries, while the rich, as
everything of a better quality from abroad.
only used
now, imported
Yet anti-manu-
turing Spain prides herself in the order of the Golden Fleece,

forgetting that
it
was established by the good Duke of Bur-
gundy, to mark his preference for his
rich,
telligent towns, over a poor, proud, indolent
nobility
notions.
feeling diametrically
Pecus, unde Peeunia,
in-
and ignorant feudal
opposed to genuine Spanish
was the
Bruges and Ghent, of the Goldon
manufacturing,
Fleece,
secret of the
power of
the symbol of the com-
mercial Argonauts, became, like the Woolsack, the "canting"
charge of a woolen
no right to
Austria.
Again,
staple.
this order,
strictly speaking,
which passed with the
Low
Spain has
Couuntries to
Nevertheless, having lost the substance, she clings to
the form, for neither nations nor individuals like to relinquish
even the semblance of
On
returning to
my
title
or power.
inn, I
and by the way observed
passed through the Castilian Gate,
several fine bits of arabesque on the
ALPINE SCENERY.
The
walls.
scroll carvings
]TT
on some of the old towers, the win-
dows of several houses, and the columns
in
revived in the recollection the memories of
many
its
a court-yard,
ancient Moorish
Every order of architecture appeared to be repre-
inhabitants.
sented in this town: even the Saxon arches, with capacious
was observed
capitals,
The Puerta
ban.
de Santiago,
and peculiar Toledern

the gate of
San
tower in the Plaza of de San Este-
in a
is
Moorish; the granite portals
and
ball ornaments, prevail in Segovia;
Andres,
is
quite a picture.
Following the course of the greatest antiquity in the place,
and the
line
counted no
of the
less
Roman
aqueduct to
extreme length, I
its
than 115 perfect arches, the average height of
each being about thirty
feet.
I observed that the stones
appeared to stand as securely as on the day on which they had

been
laid,
and what was more wonderful, there was no evidence
of any cement having ever been used in their construction.
LA GRAN J A.
At
eight o'clock in the evening, I found
my way
my
Granja, and on the following morning rose to enjoy

sight of the palaces
La
Granja, with
and gardens of
its
brows of the Penalara,
La
back to
first
this regal residence.
quaint old towers, nestled under the

rises
over the forests at
Situ-
its feet.
ated about 3,000 feet above the level of the sea, and within
range of the Sierra Neva,
its
climate
is
always cool.
delightful promenades, attached to the palace, are so
with shade and

tions of
jesty, or
forest-trees,
The
overhung
and watered by the moist exhala-
numerous fountains, as to render
it
fit
abode
a pleasant habitation for those favorites
for
ma-
who bask
in
the sunshine of courts, without detracting from that beauty of
118
those quiet and secluded spots which a reflecting and contem-
amid the haunts of
plative nature seeks to create
and
The grounds were
pleasure.
laid out
gaiety, luxury
by Philip
who
II.,
retired to this place in order to avoid the intrigues of courtiers
and while
ment
employed
here, he
La Granja
of
his leisure
hours in the embellish-
farm-house previously
which
by
his
Aladdin-magic lamp was converted into the present magnificent
and luxurious
Here
retreat.
amid the
his caprices reveled
in-
dulgence of his horticultural and agricultural fancies, and while
he gratified
his taste, it cost his people the
At
of pesos duros.
such an outlay,
fountains are superior
wonderful that
those
to to
La Granja
is
it is
sum
of 5,000,000
not surprising that the
at Versailles,
nor
is
it
considered by the Spaniards, as the
boasted Garden of Spain.

This cool castle in the air
chateau of the
Queen
say the Castilians, a worthy
is,
of Spain
as she
is
the loftiest of
earthly sovereigns, so her abode soars nearest to heaven

elevation cannot
be doubted, as the palace
is
all
the
placed on the
northwest range of the Sierra, 3840 feet above the level of the
sea,
and thus
same
in the
latitude
than the crater of Mount Yesuvius.

Alpine
around on
sides
all
as Naples, stands higher
The
localities are truly
are rocks, forests,
and
crystal
streams, and above towers la Penalara, rising, according to
some, above 8,500

art
is
entirely
While nature
feet.
French
is
truly Spanish, here
for the one-idead founder,
Philip Y.,
could conceive no other excellence but that of Marly and Versailles.
In reserve and bigotry a Philip
II., his
hypychondriac
shyness drove him into retirement, wanting nothing but his
mass-book and
wife,
confessor's hands.
and thus becoming a puppet
He
was no sooner
throne than he meditated
its
in her
and her
fixed on the Spanish
abdication, always harboring, like
FUEXTE CONSERVATORY.
Henry
III.
France
in Poland,
179
a secret wish to retnrn and reign in
chanced that while hunting at Yalsain
it
in
1722 he
observed this granja, then a grange or farm-house of the Sego-
monks
vian
La
of
here he died, July
9,
Parrot, of
whom
he bought the
1746, and here he
site,
and
buried, carrying his
is
He
hatred to Austrian recollections even to the grave.
would
not associate with them even in the Panteon of the Escurial,

which,
building
The
common with
His was the
slighted.
effaced
in
by French
fatal
reign,
when
opinions, language, customs,
slaves of the
chateau,
it
is
if
alliances.
it
had been
levels of the
this sensual, theatrical,
French
the antithesis of the proud, gloomy Escorial, on
turns
its
back.
portion of the old Granja
preserved near the Fuente, for the building

ents
and
lamp from the bald
Seine to a wild Spanish sierra
he
Spanish,
nationalism was
palace, a thing of the foreigner, looks as
moved by the
which
everything
and patchwork, and
is
is
still
a thing of expedi-
so far a thing of Spain,
A loug
line
of railing, like that of the Carrousel at Paris, divides three

sides of
family,
a square.
and the wings to
garden, and
like
The
is
centre
body
their suites.
cheerful, although
airy,
The facade
fronts the
over-windowed and looking
The
a long Corinthian conservatory.
light,
destined to the royal
is
royal apartments are
and agreeable, without being magnificent, and
them strange events have taken
place.
in
Here, in January,
1724, Philip Y. abdicated the crown, which he resumed in the
next August at the death of his son, having been urged to
become once more a king by
who was
very soon weary
here, in 1783, Charles III. received the
of private
life
d'Artois,
(Charles X.)
his wife,
when on
his
way
Count
to take Gibraltar,
which he did not do.
Here Ferdinand YIL, September
18,
1832, revoked the
180
decree by which he had abolished the Salic law, and declared

his
daughter Isabel, born October 10, 1830, to be heiress to the
crown, an act which cursed his ever
The
wars and a disputed succession.

as follows
Don
Carlos, his brother
country with
ill-fated
secret history
is
whom and
La Beira, a deadly palace war was waged by Carlota,

Don
said to be
and heir presumptive, was
married to a Portuguese princess, between
ing wife of
civil
her
sister,
the intrigu-
Francisco de Paula, a younger brother of the
king.
When
cotorie,
gained so much on the Portuguese one, that, on the
Ferdinand married Christina, the Neapolitan
queen's pregnancy being declared, Carlota, in order to oust the

Beira's children, induced
justice, to
Tadeo Calomarde, the minister of
suggest this change to the uxorious king, and the
decree was
smuggled through the royal
knowledge of the other ministers
closet without
thus Ferdinand deprived his
brother Carlos of his birth-right, that brother

friend of his youth,
and who had
and the companion of
who had been
his
French
the
captivity,
refused, in 1827, to assist in his dethronement.
In the autumn of 1832 Ferdinand
fell
dangerously
ill
same palace; the succession of Carlos was then quite

for Christina, at this crisis,
self
the
in this
certain;
had no party whatever, and she
drew up a revocation of the
decree, which
was
her-
signed, Sep-
tember 18, by the guided hand of the unconscious testator;
this
second act was managed by the royal confessor and Alcudia,

the principal mover being Calomarde,
who now undid
his for-
mer work, in his terror at the certain veganza which the Portuguese faction would have taken; and Antonini, the Neapolitan
ambassador, confirmed his statement, and urged Christina to

save herself.
miracle.
As
Ferdinand, two days afterwards, recovered by a

the king regained strength, the queen recovered
courage, until, on October 31, the revocation was revoked,
POETICAL JUSTICE.
181
Christina throwing the whole blame of the past on Calomarde,
who was
forthwith turned out of
office
weak, now delegated his authority to his
still
nursed him most tenderly
wife,
king,
who had
and she instantly created a party by
displacing all ultra Royalists and Carlists, or
men
The
and Spain.
favorable to moderate reforms.
by substituting
Ferdinand died September
29, 1833; then ensued the terrible civil
wars which have rent
and impoverished poor Spain.

This self-same palace, as
if
by poetical
justice,
by which Christina
theatre of another tragedy,
became the
in her turn
was
deprived of her royal rights: here, August 12, 1836, intimi-
dated by rude soldiery, headed by one Garcia, a serjeant, she
was compelled to proclaim the democratical constitution of
The
1812.
secret underplot of this intrigue
was to bring about
a change of the conservative ministry into one ultra-radical, and

the final result, as might be expected, was the downfall and
exile of the queen,
The gardens
walk
and the restoration of things as they were.
of the palace are the finest in Spain: the grand
in front, called the parterre (for everything in
style is
French), looks over flowers, water, and mountains; here
the fruits of Spring ripen in

ficial,
name and
the cost was
piastres, the precise
Autumn:
as everything
was
arti-
enormous, reaching to forty-five million
sum
in
which Philip Y. died indebted
thus
those palaces in Spain which the Austrian kings began, are

unfinished, while those
are not paid
for.
which their Bourbon successors
To form
raised,
these gardens, rocks were leveled
and hollowed to admit pipes of fountains and roots of
whose
soil
was brought up from the
plains.
trees,
It requires to be
constantly renewed, and even then the vegetation
is
dwarf-like;
but despots delight in enriching favorites without merit, and

their felicity contrasts with the people's misery.
182
San Ildefonso
praising
after all
was but an
Delille, in
gardens, justly remarked, "Philippe defiait son
its
Although
ayeul et retragait la France."

are far
and
imitation,
more
smaller, these gardens
real than their type; pure genuine water
charm, which here
is
their
no turbid puddle forced up by a wooden
waterwork, but a crystal

alembic; the Cascada
is
is
distillation,
fresh from a mountain
a grand falling sheet, which, under the
son of Castile, glitters like melted silver;
supplied from a
it is
a large pond or resorvoir above, which, as at Aranjeuz,

modestly termed
The gardens
altos
bajos,
Mar, the ocean.
el
in
is
which art
rivals nature, are divided into the
high and low; they are laid out in a formal
style,
being planted in avenues, and decked with marble statuary;

there are twenty-six fountains, the finest are those called los
Banos de Diana,
la
the two Cascades,
Pomona, and
el
Latona, or lianas, la Corrida de Caballos,

Canastillo, los Yientos, la
el
Neptuno,
at which,
says
Andromeda,
la
Mons. Bourgion,
genius presides, and where he read Yirgil, and quoted " Quos
The Fama
ego."
feet high (?).
is
The
the most famous, and shoots up water 130

fountains play on the
summer months, great
when
festivals,
first
Sundays of the
and royal birth or
the traveler should visit this spot.
The
saint days,
chief statues are
the Apollo and Daphne, Lucretia, Bacchus, America, Ceres,
and Milon; poor and second-rate, they are much more admired
by Spaniards, who have very
little
fine
marble sculpture, than
they deserve; possibly because the work of foreigners, to wit,

Messrs. Carlier, Pitue, Dumandre, and Bousseau.
On Sunday
was
gratified
Spain.
afternoon while walking through the gardens, I
by a sight of
Her appearance was
Christina,
the youthful queen of
that of a good-natured and portly
female with a countenance of rather a pleasing expression of
183
QUEEN ISABEL.
and a person a
joviality,
Her
inclined to embonpoint.
little
carriage and gait were graceful and easy, and as she received
the salutations of the attendants

face lighted
who happened
up with a more benignant
interested in this
modern Dido,
smile.
was not much

has always
for her conduct
been of such an equivocal nature, that I
exchange places with Mufioz her

JEneas on
to be near, her
no inclination to
felt
lover, in order to play the
this occasion.
Having spent a few days at
place I
this
set out for the
by
Escorial on the morning of the third day and crossed over
the
Guadarama
chain, on the road that leads
from San Ildefon-
sonso to this wonderful pile of masonry.
THE ESCORIAL.
Now
for the Escorial
that eighth wonder added

once a convent,
to the seven of the ancients
of royalty,
at
and a museum of
which
for the granite blocks of
palace,
It
relics.
it
by Spain
is
tomb
Pelion on Ossa,
composed are piled upon
is
the mountains of the Sierras from which they were taken.
medieval monastic fortress rising out of the upheaved ridges of

primeval rocks which
is
conspicuous even amid the
Here
chains which surround.
architectural response to a
granite
Philip II. built his prodigy, as an
vow made
after a victory in battle,
and here that bigoted and monastic king, amid confessionals

and monks ruled a kingdom by two words,
indeed a
fit
type of the
of the Inqusition,
and a
spirit of
his
name.
It
was
the age, of the monster brood
terrific offspring
of the harrowed con-
science of a fanatic.
The
idol of the
monks and abode
to be inhabited by drones.
It
of celibates,
it
was only
fit
now appeared a vast grand, gloomy

184
supernatural
mind one
pile,
without purpose and without use, save to
of the broiling of its patron
San Lorenzo,
was that of a gridiron of which the palace
is
re-
for its shape
the handle.
This grand and gloomy monastery or monstrosity of architecture
a convent,
a palace and a tomb united under one roof
was well located amid the

tains,
from which
We
its
sterile
and barren Sierras or moun-
masses had been constructed.
should see, however, the things which are
among
the
miracles of art and the wonder and admiration of mankind,
we can form but
otherwise
in
a faint idea of the spirit of an age,
which bigotry was the genius, and tyranny the pride of kings.
How
the simple and noble proportions of the Church
fully
Greek
display the powerful advantages of the form of the
Our view from the roof
cross.
of this edifice furnished an adequate
idea of the extent, magnitude and shape of the enormous grani-
which
tic gridiron to
its
plain conforms
only well adapted to the vast pile of
its
figure
which
is
not
buildings, but equally
commemorative of the roasting on a gridiron of San Lorenzo

the saint, in honor of which this structure was
The whole country about

solate
who
this
mass of
and without grandeur, the
scratched
it
almost a savage
soil
;
stone,
first built.
was barren,
yet this wilderness which
disfigures the face of the earth,
formed no bad approach to
gloomy
pile,
fifth
seen in
its
which, here, at the
de-
was poor and the boors
this
league from Madrid, was
dreary solitary state under the jagged and sullen
Sierra, looming so large,
that
it is
not lost even
among
the
mountains.
The
east end of the chapel,
gridiron,
mar
and the projecting handle of the
the elevation; but as a whole
the gardens and terraces,
embosomed
in
it rises
grandly from
plantations,
which
fringe the edge of the desert, that extends all around from rose-
THE GRIDIRON.
less
Las Rosas, where
185
the road branches off to Guadarrama,
and next to Galapagar, where the bodies of royalty

first
night
when on
way
their
to their last home.
now
there long lines of walls enclose the

of
el
Prado and
royalty.
On
rest the
Here and
deserted dwarf covers
Zarzuda, and other preserves of theriomaniac
la
passing a bolder granite stone, a cross indicates
the former dominion of the cowl
hence, through poplars and
pollarded elms the road ascends to the wind-blown hamlet, which

looks paltry
when compared
to the single edifice,
increased by the insignificance of so
The
Escorial
of the provinces
Sierra, which rises behind
The
Escorial
lost its living
smaller buildings.
is
now
is
carried on the crest of the
it.
a shadow of the past, for the shell has
monks, and those revenues whereby they
The enormous
lived.
exposed to the hurricane and mountain
pile,
snows, was only to be kept in repair at a great outlay.

five
size is
placed by some geographers in Old Castile, but
is
the division
many
whose
In the
years after the sequestrations of convents more injury ensued
The
than during the preceding two centuries.
through the damaged
roof,
the untenanted chambers.
which cost
millions,
rains penetrated
and damp, sad destroyer, crept into
The eighth marvel
was perishing
for
the
of the world,
sake
of a
few
hundreds, until Arguelles, in 1842, destined a pittance out of

the queen's privy purse, and stayed the immediate ruin, which
outlays have been continued.
gold by the invaders
and
The convent was stripped
in July,
when
of
its
the Carlists, under
Zariategui, advanced on Segovia, a hundred of the best pictures
w ere removed
r
The
el
to Madrid.
El red sitio de San Lorenzo

name is derived, by some, from
which do not exist here. The
correct title of the edifice
real de Escorial.
The
latter
Escorice the dross of the mines,
is
186
edifice is a
combined palace, convent and tomb, and
purposes was
it
reared by Philip
II.,
el
prudente,
" the holy founder," and by other
by the monks
for these
who
is
called
Escorialense.
el
His ostensible object was to carry out the will of his father in
constructing a royal burial place, and to
vow made
a panic-inspired
fulfil
during the battle of St. Quentin,
when he implored
the aid of San Lorenzo, on whose day (August 10, 1557)
w as fought.
T
was put
The
This saint was
to death on a gridiron
victory
alone was
now
Huesca
a native of
in
it
Aragon, and
by Yalentianus, August
10, 261.
claimed by the Spaniards for themselves
won by a foreign commander, by
Philibert of Savoy,
German
under Lord Pem-
ably seconded by D'Egmont, with Flemish infantry and
by 8000 English,
cavalry,
and better
broke.
The French were completely
still
men, 4000 prisoners,
colors,
and
routed,
baggage,
and
lost
3000
Had
artillery.
Philip II. pressed on, he might have captured Paris as easily as
Duke
the
did after Waterloo
ing, like Castanos,
victory.
He
and
like
for
'
but as he wanted means of mov-
him was not even on the
if
once
safe,
never to conquer twice.
this colossal pile is proportionate to his piety
celui qui faisait
un
si
took to building, for which he was really
On
fears,
it
is
the only
which Spain derived from that important victory. Philip,
tired of war's alarms, reposed under his
taste
and
grand voeu/ said the Duke of Brag-
anza, 'doit avoir eu grand peur;' and, in truth,

lenefit
field of his
passed his time between two confessors, vowing
convents, and swearing,
And
and a true patron of
borrowed
fitted,
laurels,
being a
and
man
of
artists.
the 13th of September, 1598, Philip II. died here, having
lived in his vast convent fourteen years, half-king, half-monk,
and boasting that from the foot of a mountain he governed

half the
world, old and new, with two inches of paper.
The
BIGOTED PHILIP.
holy founder
is
181
compared to Solomon, who reared the temple,
which was not permitted to men of blood,
David and
like
Charles Y.
The
disappoints at
edifice
form or color which
first
sight
for
it
has nothing in
clean granite, blue slates, and leaden roofs, look new, as
yesterday for an overgrown barrack or manufactory.

titude of bald
Cologne Yirgins), the green
chickets are offensive

port-holes,
made
if
built
The mul-
windows (they say that there are 11,000,
pliment to the
The
either royal, religious, or ancient.
is
in
shutters
com-
and
the windows of the entresoles look like
and from the thickness of the
real embrazures for cannon.
walls,
they might be
The windows
are too small,
but had they been planned in proportion to the facades, the
rooms lighted by them would have been too
was
ternal appearance
now
lofty,
and thus ex-
accommodation
sacrificed for internal
they are spots which cut up breadth and interfere with the
Bigoted, indeed was Philip
sentiment of solidity.
when he
could sacrifice an opportunity of building a perfect palace, to
an
idle
legend of a gridiron
are
was indeed the
size, simplicity,
above the
and
looks, not a
it
situation.
and
is
The redeeming
It stands
qualities
about 2700 feet
part and parcel of the moun-
has been constructed
it is
so large that
severe picture.
which form an appropriate frame to the
The ashy
pile
looms like the palace of Death,
sends forth his blasts of consumption, which descend
from these peeled Sierras to sweep human and vegetable

from the desert of Madrid.
heart of
it
wart upon Olympus, but grand even amid the mighty
buttresses of nature,
who hence
real martyr.
level of the sea,
tain out of which
and poor Herrera forced to lower
worthy of the Beef-steak Club or Cobbett's
his genius to a plan

register,
its
founder,
this
life
Cold as the grey eye and granite
monument
of fear and superstition
188
would have been out of keeping, amid the flowers and sunshine
happy
of a
The
valley.
a rectangular parallelogram, measuring 144
edifice is
feet
from north to south, and 580 from east to west.
rior
is
The
divided into courts, which represent the intersections of
the bars of a gridiron, while the handle forms the royal
dence
have a
sides,
which front the village and moun-
paved Lonja, or platform
fine
below are well planted, especially
slopes
la Fresneda
to the east and
hanging gardens and fishponds.
south, terraces look over formal
The
resi-
the feet are supplied by the four towers at the corners.
The north and west

tains,
inte-
la Herreria,
and
the elms, according to Evelyn, were brought by
The
Philip II. from England.
convent turns
Sierra, for the
north, Lonja
is
west, or grand facade faces the

its
back on Madrid.
On
the
a subterranean gallery 180 feet long, ten high,
and seven broad, tunnelled
1710 by the monk Pon tones,
in
in
order to afford a communication during the winter hurricanes,
which the guides

all,
into the
air,
say, once hoisted
to say nothing of the petticoats of monks,
women, blown up
by the
like balloons,
score, whirled
the cardinal points

little
round and round
like
dead
is
disarmed by
The guides know by
that in the centre
leaves.
The
not placed according " to
They repeat that the square
covers 3002 feet
by a dome
is
their violence
out of the square.
proportions.
ters,
;"
and
and lords of the bedchamber,
convent, on account of the winds,
an ambassador, coach and
is
its
being set
rote all the
of the
building
the chapel, surmounted
that there are sixty-three fountains, twelve clois-
eighty staircases, sixteen court-yards, and 3000 feet of
painted fresco.
It
was
at once a temple, a palace, a treasury,
a tomb house, and a museum
and glory throughout
all
" exceeding magnifical, of fame
countries."
The grand
central Doric
189
THE PANTE0N.
and Ionic portal
is
never opened, save to admit royalty, either
The
alive or dead.
patio
first
called de los Reyes, from the
is
"the Kings" of Judah, connected with the Temple
statues of
They are seventeen
of Jerusalem.
and were
feet high,
by Juan Bautista Monegro, out of one granite

enough
still
remains to
make up
chapel, as seen from under the
triumph of architecture
holder from
unadorned
away the breath

All
majestic simplicity.
its
no
tawdry
tinsel statues, or
fect proportion of the chaste Christian
An
trivial is forgotten.
creeps over mortal man,
who
is
the
of the be-
quiet, solemn,
and
gildings,
mar the
per-
temple
the religious
is
God
sentiment pervades the whole of this house of
mean and
interior of the
sombre grotto-like Templo,
takes
it
cut
block, of which
The
the dozen.
all
everything
awe, der schauer des erhaben,
feels
that the
Holy
of Holies
overshadows him.
Next descend
olic
into the Panteon, the term given
Spaniards to a Christian burial vault.
This
the high altar, in order that the celebrant,

the host,
may do
so exactly
placed under
when he
above the dead.
he built the Escorial as a tomb-house
is
by the Cath-
elevates
Philip, although
for his father,
prepared
nothing but a plain vault, which, like that of Frederick the

Great, at Potzdam, by the absense of tinsel pomp, becomes at
once impressive and instructive, from the moral which such
a change in such a monarch must suggest.

silly
son,
Philip III., his
began the present gorgeous chamber, which Philip
IV. completed
in 1654,
The
of March.
moving
entrance,
in the royal bodies
with
its
gilt
on the ltth
ornaments and varie-
gated marbles, has nothing in common with the sepulchral sentiment.
Of
the
octagonal
Panteon,
there
are
twenty-six
niches hollowed in the eight sides, with black marble urnas,
which are too
classical to create
a Christian sentiment
the
190
names of the deceased are written on each
name
are inscribed with the
filled,
those which are
of the occupant
away from
ones await future kings, for death, which takes

enriches
everything,
buried here save
this
kings
the empty
None
greedy charnel-house.
and the mothers of kings
quette and precedence in Spain survive
grave
the
are
for eti-
and to
preserve propriety the males are placed separately, and oppo-
The royal bodies are
the females.
site to
really deposited in
Urnas, as Philip IV., in 1654, opened that of Charles
their
V., which
was fouud
to be perfectly preserved
and Ferdinand
VII., at his restoration, had the others examined, fearing that

the republican invader might have rifled them, as elsewhere,
either to insult
dead royalty, or procure lead to destroy the
living.
The grand
staircase, that feature in
which modern
architec-
ture triumphs over the ancients, leads to an upper claustro
was designed by Juan Bautista

It is
Castello,
and
lies
it
to the west.
painted in fresco by L. Cangiagi, L. Giordano, and P.
Here
Pelegrino.
of the Constable
the battle of St. Quentin, and the capture
is
Montmorency; while to the
east Philip II.
seen planning the Escorial with his architects.

is
On
la Gloria, the apotheosis, or ascending into heaven, of
Lorenzo, with saints and the blessed, and
V. and Philip
II.
is
the ceiling
San
among them Charles
All this space was thus covered in seven
months, by Giordano, too truly Luca fa presto, and his fatal

facility
and want of thought dealt the
last
blow to
falling
Italian art.
The great
los
Reyes
library
is
placed above the porch of the Patio de
over the entrance
by the Pope
of all
who
is
the
common excommunication
should steal the books, to which the
invaders paid small attention.
The arched rooms run from
FABLES
ALLEGORY.
191
north to south, and are 194 feet long, thirty-two wide, and thir
ty-six high
the pavement
marble, and the book-cases were
is
executed by Jose Flecha, from Doric designs by Herrera.
There are ample tables of marble and porphyry, provided

the use of readers
and the
for
ceilings are painted in fresco, blues
and yellows predominate, and the colors are too gaudy
for
the sober books, while the figures, being too colossal, injure
relative proportions
but these errors pervade the ambitious
works of Tibaldi, who out-heroded M. Angelo, without possessOther
ing a tithe of his grandeur or originality.
by B. Carducho, and
of subjects analogous to a library,
personification of the liberal sciences.
the Globe to Socrates, and others
Athens
Philosophy shows
First,
;
below,
*the School of
is
Grammar
first
School
rounded by Cicero, Demosthenes, and others.

see Dialectics, Arithmetic, Music,
Rhetoric sur-
Further on, we
Geometry, Astronomy, and
Theology, with appropriate groups and attributes
On
so tiresome as allegory.
when
II.,
see
him
and the
old
still
more
it is full
in the flesh
but nothing
and of Arias Montano,
its
striking one of their master, Philip
of identity
and
the walls hang portraits of Her-
rera, the architect of the Escorial,
librarian,
and the
then follows the Confusion of Tongues, Nebuchado-
nezzor instituting the
is
frescos are
spirit,
and individuality
here
we
louring from his den, with his
wan, dejected look, marked with the melancholy taint of his

grandmother, and his bigot, grey eye, cold as frozen drops of
morning dew.
The grave seems
to give
up
its
dead, and the
suspicious sacred bigot walks out of the frame into his

library.
The books have
their edges, not backs, turned to the
spectator, having been thus
The
originally arranged
by Montano.
library, in 1808, before the invasion, is said to
tained
30,000
printed,
own
and
4,300
MS.
volumes.
have conJoseph
192
removed them
all
them
to Madrid, but Ferdinand VII. sent
back.
The grand kitchen
who
inspection,
of the Escorial deserves the gastronome's
Lorenzo might have been broiled
monks, who had
little
or la
alas
no smoke now issues
This department was once worthy of 200
from the chimneys.
dispensary,
else to
do but to
was a
Botica,
fine
visiting,
amuses
although there
silly folk,
is
Raphael-ware
The
it is
placed
just like that under the
m the handle
Here the Catholic
rilla.
whose
life
is
San
man
Ildefonso.
of the cowl,
was one
and at
They thus become the
who had
ever, even in the time
arms to
first rising
courtiers,
how-
of Philip II., thought of nothing but
and intrigues amatory and
feastings
summer quarter
real handle of the
The
sleep.
de la par-
dull routine,
access to the despot at his
his last folding the
not
easy, especially
d mango
spent six weeks every year, after leaving their

of
is
From the
Alhambra.
of the gridiron,
kings,
Colegio
cistern,
a whispering gallery which
kitchen to the royal residence the transition

as
In the medical
eat.
painted with the Judgment of Solomon.
worth
on which San
will grieve at the fireless gates,
political
thus mixing up
the frivolities of a most profligate court with the outward show

of monastic austerities.
In a room adjoining Ferdinand VII. was born, October 14,
1184
and
here,
October 29, 180T, he was nearly sacrificed by
own mother, and her minion Godoy Charles,

consenting to his own shame and their crimes.
The
his
arrested for high treason,

advisers
ruin,
and
this act,
saved them
all,
when
he, coward-like,
which would have ensured
for the
his father,
prince
was
betrayed his
his
and
their
dreaded name of Buonaparte was
found mixed up in the secret correspondence, and the craven

court hushed the matter up.
Visit also the
humble apartments
prescott's PHILIP.
which Philip
in
room
in
a monk, as he reserved
II. lived, half
magnificence for the temple
which he
and then descend
September
died,
13, 1598,
having been carried there in order that

directed to the altar
aged seventy-two,
terrific in
mind, covered, says Bratome, with lice-breeding boils
haunted with doubts whether

merit of his
life,
was not
colossus of Spanish
power began to give way
yet what a position was
to the
moment
Moor
at home, while Charles
he was
politi-
under him the clay-footed
he quarreled
with England, lost his invincible armada and the

tries
body and
As
a damning crime.
he was a failure
cal personage,
might be
bloody bigotry, the supposed
his
in truth
all his
into the small
his last glance
end was
his lingering
193
had he
his,
felt
Low
Coun-
and been equal
Ferdinand and Isabella had beaten down the
master of Lombardy
V. had humbled France, and was
in quiet possession of peace
and power,
Philip might have been a legislator and a benefactor to his
country
he might have given Spain a code of laws, covered
with a net-work of roads and canals, and fixed the capital at
Lisbon instead of Madrid.

battles of the Vatican
faults,
All of this he sacrificed to fight the
and build a convent
which partly were the result of
but whatever his
his political position
and
the spirit of the age, he at least was a true patron of art and
artists
he discovered or created talent to execute
works
his biography,
his
mighty
attempted by Watson and Evaristo San
Miguel, has yet to be really written, and
pen of Mr. Prescott, who assuredly
will
it will
do
soon occupy the
justice to his splendid
subject.
Before leaving the Escorial chamber, clamber up to the Silla

del
Rey, the eminence from whence Philip II. used to contem-
plate the progress of his buildings.

plantations,
Yisit also the parks
and
which contrast agreeably with the desert beyond

9
194
and just look at the Casa
them;
JPrincipe,
del
Campo, or Casita
a miniature country house, too small indeed to
and jet too large to wear at a watch chain
it
was
built by-
prince,
and
like that
the plaything of a spoilt infant.
It
Juan de Yillanueva
at Aranjuez,
sively
is
del
live in,
for Charles
IY. when
expen-
is
ornamented with marble, marqueterie, gimcracks, ara-
besques, and with poor portraits of the ignoble-looking Spanish
The cabinet
Bourbons.
pictures are second rate
formed for the rising Maecenas by
The gardens
are pretty,
his
they were
French and Italian
valets
and form, with the neighboring walks,
a favorite evening summer promenade, for the Escorial
quented by many who

to
its
mur
cooler groves
fly
is
fre-
from the scorching heats of Madrid
the difference of the thermometer Reau-
often reaches seven degrees.
Officials place their families
and come over on the Saturdays, returning on Monday.
here,
The road back
to the capital scarcely offers any object to the

x
eye except where you catch sight of El Pardo, another royal

seat
from which point Madrid appears to advantage
in the
distance.
D E
SULTORI A.
In order properly to understand the peculiar situations of

the places described in this chapter, you must imagine the plan
of
Madrid
rounded
off
to
;
be that of a parallelogram, with
and then
it
will
its
corners
be an easy task to follow us in
the course of our wanderings after our return from the royal
seats of
La Granja and
the Escorial.
Beginning with the Prado, the resort of the
citizens
at
evening, our walk often led us into the pleasant gardens and
parterres of the
Buen
Retiro, which
was
built
by the
courtiers
VIRGIN OF ATOCHA.
mind
to divert the
prettily
laid out
195
of Philip from politics.
with flower pots,
This retreat was
shade-trees,
shrubberies,
fountains and kiosks, and the grounds ornamented with statuary,

vases, pogadas, artificial lakes
point
gardens a
of the
embracing the range cf
and
view of the city
fine
twenty
its
the highest
obtained,
is
You
steeples.
Madrid
ceive the Oriental aspect of
From
rivulets.
there per-
not far off you observe
the Botanical Gardens, which have been planted in good taste.
This section of the capital presents no

squares with promenades,
dens,
and the Buen Retiro
than three public
thus affording sufficiently ample
lungs for the healthy exercise of

better view over the city
less
the Prado, the Botanical Gar-
viz.:
its
numerous population.
may be had from
the Astronomical
Observatory, a, building constructed in the shape of an Ionic
Nearly
temple.
a classical
in
cistern, of
pit of the courtyard.
stone-wall which
front
of
it,
Rafaelesque
It
was pleased
style,
erected over the well-
Jumping over the
had an odd shape.
marked the
limits
to observe
gardens, I
of these
de-
scended to the well, and was soon within the inside of the
The royal
Chapel of Atocha.
family
The king and queen
Saturdays.
any other time, so
little
come here
to worship
on
are seldom seen together at
respect have they for each other, other
than an observance of decency in behavior within the sight of

their subjects.
The Yirgin
The
of Madrid.
of the
entire front
and
Atocha
is
the patron saint
side of the altar,
portion of the walls were covered with national

of legs
and arms, ex-votive
who
deemed by the Madrilefios possessed
is
and a great
flags,
and parts
offering to her ladyship, a virgin
of the virtue of
miraculous workings and powers.
When
the
became a
Queen
of Spain
was married, her wedding-dresses
perquisite of the Yirgin.
Ferdinand's uncle, Anto-
196
Considering the popular
embroidered for her a petticoat.
nio,
and
tradition
belief,
he could not have done a more
politic
one that would have come more home to the feelings
act, or
of the masses at Madrid.
While passing out of the chapel by a passage through the

department of the convent formerly attached to the chapel, but
now
occupied as the barracks of the corps de guarde of this
quarter, I took the liberty of lighting
of one of the soldiers
my
cigar at the pipe
the privilege of asking for fuego, or a
being a matter of course in the street etiquette of the
light,
Spaniard; and having lighted, I strolled away from the

outside the walls,
city,
and having passed under the gate of Atocha,
walked along the avenues of "La Florida," the promenade

which
encircles the entire circuit of the walls of the city.
Stopping awhile to admire the shady groves of the Casino,

another garden, by the way-side, I did not
fail
to observe the
various groupings of the people and animals, that were collected in spots, near the walls and the fountains.
There was
much
amuse the
in their positions, occupations,
and
actions, to
mind, and somewhat to remind one of similar sights in the
Near
Orient.
by, a poor peasant
was under the hands of a
barber, undergoing the operation of shaving, in the street; be-
yond, groups of country people were engaged with their loaded

carts
and
further,
still,
patient asses were quietly drinking
from the running fountains.

life
is
of the necessaries of
happy
subjects for the artist's pencil.
corner opposite the Atocha, the
the
spreads
one
very abundant at Madrid, and the crowds about the
various fountains present
At
Water
its
me from
meridian
vast
pile,
General Hospital
but the cool shades of the Casino invites
the heat of the noon-day sun; where I rest until the

is
over."
Re-commencing
my
course, I pursued the
DONKEYS AND BEGGARS.
Casino until the gate of Toledo was passed, and
line of the
thence, proceeding in the
down
river
is
direction of the south,
The "Manzanares"
bed of a stream.
to the
the " only and the all" of Madrid
a grand viaduct, although very
less,
19?
neath, and that
even,
little,
is
little
it
walked
the great
has, neverthe-
water runs under-
confined in and under a shed,
where busy and clamorous washerwomen cleanse the polluted

rags of the
city,
and on
its
hung them out
colored garments there,
Although the
river
is
bed was once watered,
There
is
large and
a tradition current, that
might cross
its
with-
it
The mountain
fine fountains.
springs feed the sources of their supply

is
many
has
in order that a king
good water, and a plenty of
Paris,
it
Notwithstanding, Madrid has no lack of
out fear of the dust.
London and
to dry.
without water,
noble bridges to cover.
many
banks, which are clad with the
and what
plenty enough in this city.
cent bridge of Saint Isidoro
is
is
scarce at
The
magnifi-
a good stand to view the busy
scenes of activity, which indicate the presence of a capital
washerwomen under the

carts, laden
they
peasants, with their curious
with produce, hurrying on to the gates.
their costumes,
tons
arches,
all
and look at
their
peaked
hats, with black but-
wear bright red sashes around
ing their stomachs and their money.
their waist, preserv-
Some have moccasin
others are bare-footed, and wear splendid short jackets.

flat hats,
man
with rosettes,
tunic.
is
the fancy of a few,
who
with his ropes over his shoulders, and naked
legs,
gars.
How
like the
Black
Ro-
along
wearing
blanket a la dragoon's jacket, and picturesquely too.

carts,
shoes,
sport a
Presently a trabujero, or porter, trudges
what antiquated
Study
his
Then
sad looking donkeys, and ragged beg-
East these scenes appear

198
THE MANZANARES.
Three avenues now branch
off
from the circular plantation
above the Casino: the two west lead to the Manzanares, the
Thames
Duque
of Madrid, and termed
by euphuists Visconde
de rios
de Arroyos; but the Madrilenian cockneys are called
Ballenatos hijos de Ballena, because they took an albarda or
down
pack-saddle, floating
their noble river, for a whale; in
reality the paltry streamlet, although, scarcely furnishing
for the
washerwomen, has
wags and
some
satirists
centuries.
humor
of Spanish
from Quevedo, Gongora, and downwards
It
has bridges, which
also fed the dry
water
is
entitled a river
many
by
courtesy, because
real waters in Spain
dilemma here has been whether to
sell
have not.
for
it
The
a bridge or buy water.
These enormous Puentes, about which there
is
no mistake, are
(as at Valencia) not quite pontes asinorum, since they serve as
viaducts across the dip, and sometimes the rain torrents descend
from the Guadarrama

piers are threatened
in such a body, that even their gigantic
by the inundations; however, the deluge
own fury: and whenever it rains,

the stranger should run quickly down to see the river before it
is gone.
In summer the rivulet is scarcely so wide as its name
is long, and they say the bed was once watered when Ferdinand
VII. passed it, to prevent his being annoyed by the dust. The
soon passes away, spent in
its
dry-shod foot-passenger crosses
Lucan
(ix.
it
without knowing
it,
as in
914):
" Inscius in sicco serpentum pulvere rivum
Transierat, qui
Xanthus erat."
Gongora, besides sundry profane and scurvy

river-god, whose" urn
is
jests,
so often dry, to the rich
likened this
man
in flames
199
PIOUS BARGEMEN'.
calling for one drop of water.
pares
it
Tirso de Molina's epigram com-
to the long vacations, in summer, of universities
" Como Alcala y Salamanca,

Teneis y no sois Colegio,
Vacaciones
Y
The water
is
whom
shifts,
Los
jpanos mcnores of
Mad-
by
lavation, especially under the royal palace
tree-fringed banks,
is
some baths
glitter in
which the Madrilencs,
in
by the
garrulous and picturesque, for brightly
do the parti-colored garments

also
naiads, to
enticed into holes
are committed the shirts and
The
Verano
of this anatomy, which has the form of a river
without the circulation,
rid.
es
curso solo en Invierno."
There are
the sun.
in
summer, cool their
parched bodies.
The Manzanares
enters the
rises
about seven leagues from Madrid, and
Jarama near Vacia Madrid. Down stream
unfinished canal, projected in 1668, to connect
east, is the
Madrid with the
Tagus, which was begun, as usual, eagerly, and, as usual, soon

neglected,
and only two leagues are
finished.
The stagnant
waters are a reservoir of fever; thus becoming a curse, not a

benefit,
and adding to the insalubrity of
sickly
Madrid: there are
a few buildings, and also a chapel for pious bargemen who bring
lime to the capital.
There are four bridges over the Manza-
wood
at the extreme east end crosses over to the
nares: one of
hermitage of San Isidro

this
del
Campo.
The grand pilgrimage to
male patron of Madrid, takes place on
truly national scene,
May
15,
and
where may be studied most of the
is
cos-
tumes, songs, and dances of the provinces, as the natives settled

at
Madrid congregate
serving their
own
in parties
peculiarities.
with true local
spirit,
each pre-
Booths are erected, and
eat-

200
ing-houses in which the Gaita Gallega resounds with the Gut-
tarra Andaluza; vast numbers of the saints' small pig-bells,
made
when
of clay, are sold; they avert lightning
Madrilenian what Greenwich
this fair is to the
Monday,
to the Cockney; the elder refer to
it
San Isidro
minding
on Easter
frolic.
The
a very different saint from San Isidoro.
is
former (like St. Cuthbert, the tutelar of

laborer,
is,
with pleasure in
and
recollection of their sweet days of youth, fun,
well rung;
whence he
called
is
el
Durham) was a
Labrador.
his plough, passed his time in
day-
Isidro, instead of
a siestose consideration
of the sainted namesake, having been born on the very day

that San Isidoro's body was removed to Leon.
his ecstacies,
come down from heaven and did
Angels, during
his
say the chroniclers, the still-existing miraculous
work; hence,
fertility of
the
Philip III., having been cured by touch-
environs of Madrid.
ing his body, obtained from the pope the canonization of this
tutelar,
gistic
on
whom Lope
poem, which
by Southey on
is
de
Yega wrote
much more
this saint.
a Justa Poetica, or eulo-
serious than the ballads
He was
made
born in the tenth century;
the son of Ibn (the son) de Vargas; he married Maria de la
Cabeza, a hind's daughter, and also a
saint.
His miracles were
agricultural ; thus he found out water-springs, raised corn, but
without ploughing, and horses from the dead; his

thus
summed up
life
has been
" Tierras, virtudes y
cielo
Labre, cultive, cogi,
Con piedad, con
The
angels of heaven
whereupon
his olla
fe,
came down
con zelo."
to
share his hospitality;
was miraculously replenished.
to Alonso VIII., in the form of the peasant
He
appeared
who showed
the
201
GARROTE BOW-STRING.
path at Navas de Talosa.

been cured by
"When Isabel
his intervention,
la
went to pray
Catolica,
having
at his tomb, one
of her maids of honor, kissing his feet, bit off his second toe as
relic,
and forthwith
lost
her powers of speech; but on eject-
ing the mouthful, recovered her pristine fluency.
Returning to the Manzanares, I passed, without crossing

the bridge and viaduct
1135, by Philip Y., and
can be worse in
taste,
El Puente
is
385
which was
de Toledo,
feet long
by 36 wide.
it,
built in
[Nothing
although San Isidoro and his wife, adorn
the scene, looking out for water.
Here the
public executions
take place, and generally by the garrote, a sort of strangling
machine based on the Oriental bow-string; as a more agreeable

spectacle, the artist
visit this
and lover of picturesque peasantry should
gate early in the morning, and sketch the groups of
market-people, their wares and beasts,
who congregate
around,
awaiting the ceremony of the derecko de Puertas, the old Sisa.

Their indignation at the Resguardos gives animation to their
eyes and gestures.
Crossing the Manzanares are the avenues and the
La
Florida,
which continue on the road to the Escorial, and were a very

fashionable promenade in the reign of Charles III.
PALACE.
Avoiding
this
new
Paseo, and turning out of the Florida, at
the gate San Vicente, I ascended to the truly royal palace

rising
above the valley and sparkling
clear blue sky
the world.
it
certainly
It has
is
like
white marble on a
one of the most magnificient in
two open plazas: that to the
Oriente, is a sort of Frenchified
del
Place de Carousel, for here
the invaders demolished eighty-seven houses, and

9*
east,
left
the space
202
a desert of
and
dus.t
glare,
and impassable
Ferdinand VII. removed the
ruins,
in the clog-days.
had the
locality leveled,
and commenced a magnificent theatre and colonnade.

site,
indeed,
was very convenient
his residence
as the place
for the king, being close to
but by no means so for the citizens
In the centre of a circular garden
war
charger, and
in
is
a solid Velazquez.
is
one of the
which was moved
in
It represents Philip IV.
Retiro gardens.
model
in general,
in a distant angle of the town.
is
trian statues in the world,
Buen
finest eques-
1844 from the
mounted on
his
Montaftes carved the
wood, while the bronze was cast at Florence, in 1640,
by Pedro Tacca.
It
nineteen feet high, and 180 cwt., yet the
is
mane and
horse curvets, supported by the hind legs, and the
As
this fine thing
was compara-
scarf absolutely float in the
air.
tively lost in the Retiro,
was often before proposed
into
The
Madrid
it
move
to
it
but the Minister Grimaldi declared that to be too
great an honor for any Austrian king, and protested that he
would only consent
the head of Philip were cut
if
and the
off,
baboon, Bourbon, one of Charles III. substituted
panto-
mimic change worthy of a Grimaldi.
The
palace
royal
we approach
office,
St.
it
is
enormous, but does not satisfy when
Were
nearly.
it
not that here
is
the premier's
the palace would have the deserted look of the uninhabited
James, but the throng of
cialeteros,
pretendicnles, empleados,
y demas pordioseros, gives
pies the site
of the
original
rival to Versailles,
the model.
for the
The
when
to.
the scene.
It occu-
Alcazar of the Moors, which
Enrique IV. made his residence.

Christmas-eve, 1734,
life
cesantes,
Philip
This was burnt
V.
down on
determined to rebuild a
and Felipe de Jubara, a
Sicilian,
prepared
architect judiciously wished to change the site
San Bernardino
hill,
but Elizabeth Farnese, the queen,
HANGING GARDENS.
whose ambition
was
it
203
grudged the
to advance her children,
expense, and combined en camarilla with the minister Patifio
and so many
difficulties
then directed Juan Bautista Sachetti, of
Philip
deferred.
were made, that Jubara died of hope
Turin, to prepare a smaller and less expensive plan, which, the
queen not objecting, was adopted, April

It
IT 37.
T,
a square of 4T0 feet each way, by 100 feet high, but
is
the wings and the hanging-gardens are unfinished.
base
of granite
is
like
Yisit
it
loneliness,
rustic
the window-work of white stone of Col-
menar, which in the bright sun

marble.
The
when, in the
also at moonlight,
the pile
looms
enchanter, on a castle of snow,
as a fair palace of
glitters
like
On
silent death-
a ghostly thing of the
the heavy balustrade above
stood a series of heavier royal statues, which were taken
and sent to Toledo and Burgos, or buried
in the vaults,
down
from
whence some have been taken out to adorn the Plaza
The grand
Oriente.
of ascent
staircase here,
but, as in
back stair case
is
is
noble in design and easy
some other palaces,
the most frequented.
del
&E
It
is
scalier derobe,
said,
the
when Buona-
parte ascended these steps, that he told his brother Joseph,

"
Vous
seriez
mieux loge que
He
inoi."
laid his
hand on one
of the white marble lions, exclaiming, " Je la tiens enfin, cette
Espagne,
Africa
si
!"
that Spain
"Plus
desiree
So spake Caesar on landing, " Teneo
!"
But the French,

is
like the
Romans, at
last discovered
a morsel easier to be swallowed than digested
est provinciaru retinere
quam
facere" (Floras
The Duke shortened poor Pepe's tenure

in
te,
ii.
IT, 8).
he entered Madrid
triumph after the victory of Salamanca, on the 12th of
August, 1812, and was lodged in

sible,"
wrote he from
it,
"It
is
impos-
" to describe the joy manifested
by the
this palace.
inhabitants upon our arrival, or their detestation of the French
204
That yoke, removed by a stranger, was replaced by
yoke."
a native Spaniard, by Ballesteros
Nothing
more tiresome than a
is
and a bore.
tapestry, gold,
Yet
palace, a house of velvet,
a truly royal one, in
this is
which the most precious marbles are used prodigally
The multitudinous French
ings and doorways.
On
the especial hobby of Ferdinand VII.

those glorious pictures
now
hang up French papers.
were
with
filled
pillage has
fine old furniture
The
The
most princely
San
chief saloon
is
called de los jEmbajadores, or
decorations are indeed
its
the crystal chandeliers, colossal looking-glasses,
Ildefonso, the marble tables, crimson velvet
when
of the Spains,
fig,
and store-rooms
vaults
gold, will enchant lovers of fine furniture

alive, receive
are laid out in state.
Ferdinand
hung
but since his death a gigantic
the Reception or Throne room, and
dead
these walls
gone on as regards jewels and every thing of port-
able value.
cast at
clocks were
which that monarch
in the Museo,
ejected to
in floor-
here the sovereigns
on grand occasions, and when
There we beheld the " beloved"
VII., his face, hideous in
dead and dressed
and
life,
in full uniform,
now
purple like a ripe
with a cocked hat on his
head, and his stick in his hand.
The
ceiling
is
painted by Tiepolo, with the " Majesty of
Spain," the virtues of the kings, and the people in the different
costumes of the provinces.
The most admired
ceilings are the
apotheosis of Trajan and the Aurora, in the twenty-first room,
by Mengs, the
revivor of fresco
but oil-painting he could not
revive from the leaden drowsiness in which
it lay.
There
is
4to description of these frescos by Francisco Fabre, Mad., 1829.
The views from
the windows which overlook the river are
true landskips of the Castilian school
royal eye are
left in
the slopes under the
ragged mangy deformity
how
the magic
205
NIGHT ATTACK.
wand
Moor would have
of the
clothed the waste with flowers
and verdure, and raised hanging gardens and fountains,
in
imitation of those on the declivity of the Alhambra, which,
although
below
artificial, rival
trickles the
stream
Manzanares, with
great
its
abandoned
is
Gaudarrama, whose sharp
steppes,
outline cuts
whose snowy heights freeze the gale
del
Campo,
bounded by the
the
all is
name and scanty
beyond stretch the ragged woods of Casso
and then the hopeless tawny
icy
bright sky, and
harsh and torrid,
and blanched, but not yet devoid of a certain savage
colorless
Yisit the site of the night attack of October
grandeur.
1841,
Now all
nature herself.
when the
young queen.
7,
Gallo-Christinos endeavored to carry off the
The
planned at Paris, was headed by
plot,
Pezuela, and Concha, the brother-in-law of Espartero, who,
when
his
scheme
failed,
ran away and hid himself under one of
the bridges of the Manzanares, while Diego Leon, a brave
The regent
sabreur and his tool, was taken and executed.
pardoned the other criminals, who repaid him by conspiring to

his ruin
nay,
Concha hunted
his benefactor
even to the bay
of Cadiz, and,
had he caught him, assuredly would have put
him
The regiment
to death.
de la Princesa fired all night at the
men were killed and wounded

who beat back the conspirators,
handful of Alabardoros ; only four
between them, and Col. Dulce,
was turned out of
his place
by
Christina.
The
palace, from
standing on an eminence, exposed directly to the winds from

the snowy Guadarrama,
is
so bitter cold in winter that the
sentinels are constantly frozen to death.
Yisit
La
Real Cochera and Las Caballerizas.
mous coach-houses and

once
filled
stables
lie
to the north-east
These enor:
the latter,
with mules and horses which conveyed the kings to
their daily shootings.
The
carriages are of all forms and ages,
206
from the cumbrous state-coach to the Cupid-bedizened
car,
from
the cocke de colleras to the equipage de Paris and the hearse.
LA ARMERIA.
Now
return to the south facade of the palace, and
Armeria
The
real.
entrance
first
is
of this land of the Cid and chivalry
the heroic age of Spain.

are
All
drawn up equestrian
down
La
visit
very striking, and worthy

:
it
one back to
carries
the middle of the saloon
figures, while
armed knights stand
against the walls, surrounded in every direction with imple-
ments of war and tournament.
Above hang banners taken
from the enemy, while the walls are lined with coats of armor.
Observe the nineteen
suits of
On
in fine cinque-cento.
armor of Charles V., chased
the front of every one
is
engraved the
Yirgin, his tutelar, and at the back Santa Barbara
The
Astarte.
latter saint
as Santa Teresa
is
is
all
Isis
and
the patroness of Spanish artillery,
Santa Barbara
generalissima of infantry.
invoked by
also
is
the old
women
of Spain, in thunder-
storms, for she directs the artillery both of heaven and of earth.
The
suits
worked
of Philip
in black
are very
II.
and gold.
splendid,
The armor
especially
of the Cid
those
is fictitious;
not so that of Isabella, which she wore at the siege of Granada.
The monogram
Isabel
is
worked on the
have been a portly dame.
and she must
visor,
Ferdinand, her husband, dressed
in
bran new red breeches, and armed
is
mounted on a war-horse, while San Fernando
case.
His nether man
ing which
many
with an implicit
Some
is
in black
and gold armor,

is
kept in a
altogether apocryphal, notwithstand-
indulgences are granted to
all
who behold
it
faith.
of the shields on the walls are superb.
Observe one
RICH SHIELDS AND SWORDS.
with a Medusa's head
and another studded with cameos, and
Duke
given to Philip II. by a
Great Captain
authentic
is
chased, with a badge of
Remark
a
The armor
of Savoy.
there are four
two palm
trees issuing
the peculiar coal-scuttle helmet of the
of the
all richly
suits,
from a coronet.
Rey
Chico, and
armor, worked with silver filagree, given to Philip II.
suit of
by the
201
city of
Observe the armor of Guzman
Pamplona.
el
Bueno, of Fernan Cortes, of John of Austria, and worn at
Lepanto
lions
also a suit of a
short-legged
The
there
is
German
medal-
silver
heavy, square, and
elector,
no mistaking the country of the wearer.
smaller suits, for Infantes and young heroes, are military
The Turkish banners were mostly taken
playthings.
to.
and white, with
of Columbus, black
The
collection of
Charles TV.,
is
guns belonging to Charles III. and
worthy of these royal gamekeepers
inlaid with jewels
Lepan-
at
many
one was a present from Buonaparte,
are
who
soon after accepted from his friend his crown and kingdom.
The
collection of swords
weapon
much more
is
interesting
for this
Spain, has always been celebrated.
There are the swords of
St.
Isabella, and of the " Great
when knighthood was
Ferdinand, of Ferdinand and
Captain
the latter was used
conferred on distinguished persons.
remark those of Charles V., Philip

Pizarro, in a steel sheath.
II.,
Fernan Cortes, and
The implements
of tournaments and
hunting are extremely curious and complete, as the

love of heraldry, and the
lists,
Next
German
nourished in the congenial
soil
of the Castiles, the land of personal prowess, and the hidalgo,
and Paso Honroso :
The
Quinones.
curious
here,
by the way,
is
the sword of Suero de
saddles and leather shields of the
Moors
are
the latter, or Adargas, although light, resisted spear
and sword
two hides are cemented together by a mortar, com-

208
posed of herbs and camel-hair
mented with three

unchanged
Now
tassels,
the forms are ovals, and orna-
and the umbo, or knob
they are the
Carthagenians and Iberians.
Cetrce of the
cross the Calle de Segovia to las Vistillas, long the
town residence
Dnques de Infantado, and where Ferdi-
of the
nand and Isabella
From
lived.
when asked by what
the windows did Ximenez,
authority he assumed the Regency, point
to his artillery and soldiers in the court below.
Proceed next into the

the old Moreria, which
ism
in
an age of
Prout-like jumble of lanes,
intricate
now thought a
is
civilization
there
street to the Calle de Segovia ; all
hangs over the
is
parenthesis of barbar-
a plan of opening a wide
this side of
Madrid, which
was the ancient town, and
river,
with the newer portions, near and
contrasts
it
beyond the Puerto,
del
Sol
Now
visit la
Plaza
de Cebada, the forage, the " hay," the
" grass market," and where executions
The
artist
produce
and
the scene
come here
naturalist will
is
formerly took place.

to study costume
Those who
busy, noisy, and pictorial.
may
wish to see old Madrid, and the quarters of the Populacho,
now thread
Lavapies
and
the Calles del D. de Alba, Jesus y Maria, to the
all this locality is
a sort of Seven Dials.
de Zurita, de la Comadre, Campillo de Manuela,
The
Calle
etc., are,
and
have been, the homes and styes of Manolos and Manolas, Chisperos, Gitanos, Chalanes,
and other picturesque rogues
days of Quevedo, although, alas
every day they are abandon-
ing their national costume
" En Madrid
se
juntaron
Cuantos pobres y pobras,

lafuente del plojo
En
sus
since the
Zahurdas moran."
209
CHARITY HOSPITALS.
Those who have no taste

la
Latiaa to San Isidra
for a Castilian St. Giles,
el
This,
now a
parish
called la Colegiata ; here
is
ismo reign undisputed.
pass up
Real, in the Calle de Toledo.
once a Jesuits' college, was built in 1651, and,

church,
may
bad
and churriguer-
taste
Ma-
This convent was attacked by the
drid mob, July 11, 1834,
who murdered
the monks, because
they had caused the cholera.
Las
Yisit
woman
Recogidas,
or
Santa Maria
No
Magdalena.
can take the benefit of this institution without having
duly qualified by undoubted
guilt,
can get out except to take the
and none, once admitted,
Here
marry.
veil or
also
is
quarter in which those ladies are confined whose relations think
them
likely to
be benefited by a
little
restraint;
an
institution
which might be usefully extended to some capitals out* of

Spain.
The Foundling Hospital, La

baj adores,
so called
is
Inclusa, in the Calle de los
Em-
from a much-venerated image of the
Yirgin, which was brought by a Spanish soldier from Enkuissen
(Enchusen), in Holland; here more than 1200 infants,

children of
The
sin,
is called,
as
what hope
is
are annually exposed by their unnatural parents.
asylum
lying-in
if in
for these mothers, in the Calle del Rosal,
mockery, Nuestra Senora de la JEsperanza,
there for such deserted offspring
vulgar, however, call
unmarried
women
Yery few
worth
it el
the more honest
Pecado mortal, the deadly
sin
here
are confined in both senses of the word.
of the palaces of the Grandees contain anything
notice.
They were plundered by the
owners are not over-gifted with
taste.
shadow of departed greatness, and of
more
sinless
all
invaders,
and
Spain, indeed,
their
is
shadows none are
unsubstantial, with few exceptions, than the present hold-
ers of the time-honored
titles
of her
heroic age.
To be a
210
now seems necessary to be chico, or small in

From never allying themselves with the
person and intellect.
Grande
almost
it
commonalty, they stand alone
barren palm-trees and on the
like
have no deep roots intertwined with the
surface; they
social
system, nor the education or talent to carve out for themselves
Uneducated and untraveled, these popinjay
a position.
flies
are
fit
butter-
only to swell the levees, the Besamanos of the court,
where, true Palaciegos, the insects glitter in embroidery and
Madrid
decoration.
is
indeed
the court of fine
names,
gilt gin-
gerbread, and trappings of honor, as the forms of real strength

are resorted to, in order to raise the apparent splendor of a
faded country, to mask the absence of living

bol: nowhere, not even at cognate Naples,
spirit
is
by the sym-
there a greater
The
prodigality of utterly undeserved titles and decorations.
meaner the man the more individual

be plastered over.
but not to have
it
The badge
is
insignificance requires to
confers,
indeed, small honor,
Formerly, said the shrewd
a disgrace.
Populacko, rogues were hung on crosses,
now
crosses are
hung
on rogues.
The
is
largest of the Grandees' houses,
Duque de
that of the
appropriated
in scandalous neglect,
the
Casa
real poor house,
Medinaceli, Casa de San Geronimo
looks like ten houses taken from
armory were
and a
Bond
The
street.
by the French.
plate
Here are
it
and
kept,
some antiques which were brought from
de Pilatos at Seville.
They are not
observe a fawn, a Mercury, and Apollo.
Here
of high art
are
two very
early cannon (see Baza, p. 169): the library, once open to the
public,
is
now
a good house
food for worms.

;
so has the
The Conde de Oflate has
Duque de
Hijar,
also
and the Marquis de
Astorga.
Spain, having denied bread to Cervantes
when
alive,
has
CERVANTES.
him a stone
recently given
Plaza de
las Cortes,
211
monument has been
LA BARCA.
of Barcelona, and cast in bronze by a Prussian
He
ten.
is
raised in the
with his statue modeled by Antonio Sola
named Hofgar-
dressed in the old Spanish costume, and hides
under his cloak his arm mutilated at Lepanto, which he never

did in
life, it
being the great pride of his existence.
on the pedestal of
Don
The
reliefs
Quixote's adventures were designed by
one Piguer; the cost was defrayed out of the Bula de Cruzada:
who when alive was ransomed from Algiers by

Merced, when dead owed to a religious fund this
thus Cervantes,
the
monks
of
The
tardy monument.
Calle de Cervantes.
moved April
red in the
street in
The bones
19, 1841,
La
from
Campo Santo
de
which he lived
is
now
called
Barca were
of Calderon de la
Calatrava nunnery, and inter-
San Andrea.
ENVIRONS.
The immediate
the
city
stands
environs of
alone in
Madrid
its
desert
offer small attraction, as
There are no
solitude.
daughter suburbs, no Belgrave Squares, no Nouvelle Athenes
few are the
villas,
the rures in urbe, which tempt the citizens
beyond the mud wall of
their paradise.
are mostly royal property
The
rare exceptions
one of the prettiest
is
la Moncloa,
on the right of the road to the Escorial, and overlooking the
bed of the Manzanares.

it
It once belonged to the
Alva family
was purchased by Ferdinand VII., who removed
porcelain
China.
manufactory after
Here
his
the
French had
to
it
destroyed
the
la
Majesty made some bad, coarse, and very
dear pots and pans.
El Pardo
is
a royal
on the Manzanares.
sitio
It
or shooting-box, distant
was
built
two leagues
by Charles V., and added to
212
by Charles
whose favorite preserve
III.,
it
ments are commodious, with some of the

fresco
Some
by Galvez and Ribera.
are large and
There
fine.
The Alameda
is
was
the covers
The royal
extend to fifteen leagues in circumference.
apart-
ceilings painted in
of the glass chandeliers
a small theatre in the building.
is
an attempt at a
villa,
erected on the road to
Guadalajara by the late Countess of Osuna, at an enormous
On
expense.
the evenings of
summer holidays the
citizens
venture outside the gate of Alcala to la Ruinta del Espiritu

Santo, or to Chamberi outside the gate of Bilbao, where they
refresh
themselves in second-rate
On
adulterated wines.
on the road to Toledo,

vancheles,
for the
distinguished
de abajo.
two
by the
They are
cheap
with
about three-quarters of a league
hill,
Caravanchel, or rather the
is
villages
close
Cara-
adjoin each other, being
upper and lower, de arriba y
epithets
to
public-houses
Madrid what Highgate and Hamp-
stead are to London, and are frequented by the citizens on

holidays.
the
The
cheerful
best hotel, la Vista Alegre,
view over the
Christina created a
villa,
Christina, although bred
nakedness of
so called from
the land.
where royal and rural
fetes are given.
title
of Condesa de Vista
on departing quasi incognita from Valencia,
abdication,
Here
and born at beautiful Naples, was so
fond of this place, that she took the

Alegre,
was
and when her throne and children were
after her
left
behind;
but the classical and national denomination of the " rueful
countenance" would better have suited the sadness of the

occasion and her
No
razo,
own
forced errantry.
one should quit Madrid without calling upon Sefior Madthe director of the
Madrid Museum, who
gallery of valuable paintings,
among which
mens of Vandykes, Rubens, and
Titians.
possesses a
are some fine speci-
Many
pleasant hours
RE SIDENCE
213
CLIMATE.
may be spent in conversation with this gentleman and his sons,

who are painters of some merit, and have in their possession an
Raphael, which
original
Perla," in the
considered
is
second only to
Museum.
Madrid, as a residence,
is
disagreeable and unhealthy, alter-
nating between the extremities of heat and cold,

to the adage, three
months of winter and nine of
is
43
although
ice,
The mean temperature
hell, tres meses
32,
and the
rivers are
generally disappears in the day.
it
of the three
summer months
but during the Solano, the south-eastern wind,

rises
according
but every year, for several nights, the ther-
I',
mometer descends many degrees below

covered with
or,
The mean annual winter tem-
de invierno y nueve del infierno.
perature
"la
is
76 2';
frequently
it
to 90 or even 100 in the shade, while in the sun the
heat and glare are African

Siberia, for being placed
added the
to this are
on a denuded plateau,
the keen blasts which sweep
down from
it is
is
the most dangerous period,
exposed to
the snowy Guadar-
rama, the nursery of consumption and pulmonia.
summer
blasts of
when
Hence the
the pores are open;
for often, during a north-east wind, the difference of tempera-
ture on one side of a street to the other
more than reaches 20,
and the incautious stranger turning out of a spot which
is
roasted by the sun, passes from an ice house to an oven,
is
caught at a corner by iEolus, and incontinently forwarded to

the cemetario.
It
was of the
Colico d&
Madrid, a peculiar
inflammation of the bowels that sickened Murat in 1808, and

the superstitious populace, according to Foy, ascribed
divine vengeance
the disease
is
it
to
but no Nemesis then struck the blow, for
proverbial,
and
" El aire de Madrid es tan sotil

Que mata a un hombre, j no apaga a un
candil,"
214
the subtle
man's
life.
air,
which
Dry, searching, desiccating, and cutting, this assas-
breath of death pierces through flesh and bone and marrow:
sin
hence the careful

the
up
women with
way
in
which the natives cover their mouths,
men by
handkerchiefs, the
muffling themselves
in their cloaks, embozandose en las capas.
death at Madrid
is
not extinguish a candle, puts out a
will
is
as one in twenty-eight, while in
as one in forty-two
las personas
Si son
of
London
it
no wonder, according to Salas, that
even the healthy of those born there
" Aun
The average
live
on physic
mas sanas,
en Madrid nacidas,
Tienen que hacer sus comidas,
De
It
is
pildolas
particularly fatal to
much
for this "
y tisanas."
young
Buena Madre
"
So
children, during dentition.
mais bien Madrasta
Moya
mother, from whose tender mercies
this
derives the
good
name
of
Madrid.
Before leaving the capital, as I was strolling under the shady
groves which line the walls of the
city,
having passed beyond
the gate of Bilboa, and on to the promenades in that vicinity,
my
attention
was attracted towards a troup of young children
who preceded me,
singing and dancing in cadence of the casta-
nets which they clapped together between their fingers.
ascertaining the cause of their merriment, I
On
was surprised to
learn that they were just returning from the burial of one of
their
young playmates, and on
the customary ceremonies
tomb.
They
after
this occasion
were performing
depositing the
rejoiced at an event which
had borne
to Paradise, having been taught to believe that
were happy there
body
we then perceived the
in the
their friend
little
children
force of the words,
215
ROYAL SUMMER SEAT.
" Blessed are they that
mourn f and,
" It
is
better to go to
How
the house of mourning than to the house of feasting."
much
custom resembled that of the ancient Egyptians, as
this
shown
in the depictions of their funereal feasts
The
Thebes.
easily traced
custom remain
and can be
in Spain,
from the Egyptians to the Arabs, and by means
Moors
of the
relics of this
on the walls of
into Spain.
By
continuing this walk,
we soon
reached the quiet shades and cool retreats of the Fontana Castillafia.
This Spanish grove of Egeria was the resort of lovers,
who came
there to consult the divinity of the lakes and waters,
young moon
whilst the
lent her enchanting smiles to lighten
the gentle flames of love.
It
was with
this picture of
beauty
and delightful landscape that we chose to terminate our promenades about the
city, for
on the morrow we proposed to leave
the capital, and seek the more secluded shades of Aranguez,
and the remains of the renowned town of Toledo.
TO ARANGUEZ.
The
silvery tones of the old bell of
Suceso, struck the hour of
the capital
Aranguez
in the
as
five,
Xuestra Seiiora del buen
on the morning that we
left
an augury of good success for our journey to
we passed out
The dip
of the gate of Toledo.
road over the desert-like plain outside, was crossed by a
superb viaduct, where the bed of the Manganares was spanned
by the Chirruguesque bridge of San Isadore.
At
that early
hour the road was alive with the carts and wagons of the
market people hurrying on to the opening of the
city's gates.
Their various costumes and bustling activity relieved the monot-
ony of an highway road, which, but for the fact of

royal and
good
in the morning,
its
being
would have been dreary and
216
common
dusty and
at noon.
vast and uncultivated plain
Madrid to the happy valley of
stretches from
ually losing sight of
Madrid behind the
Grad-
Castile.
low eminence
last
on the route, at length you see only a portion of the modern and un-Spanish aspect of
receding
which are
extinguisher-shaped spires,
faintly visible, and, until, it is entirely hidden
Los Angelos, the
at
they could help
last relay
devils
its
its
but
last
from the sight
would not
live if
Tele-
considered to be the central point
is
Then the ascent commences and the
of the Peninsula.
with
where
at
Next comes the Hermitage and
it.
graph of Pinto, which
Aranjuez,
and watch
low domes,
its
meadows,
green
and water-springs, appears, while
its
gardens,
oasis
nightingales,
approach becomes doubly
delightful
from the contrast with the tawny nakedness of
the
This
soil.
foreign
elms,
foliages
was
carried
of the Spaniard, with
and the varied contrasts of
its
avenues of
and dark
lively
and bron-
truly refreshing to the eye after the dull
and heated plains around the
zen skies
Madrid.
Tempe
noble
across
the
sterile
region of
bridge
built
by Charles
Jarama, and
leads
into
stone
III.,
is
the verdurous
we were
led
across the iron supension bridge that crosses the Tagus,
and
walks of the
Royal
street.
Driven upon
this
deposited in the grand plaza near the palace, in the middle

of
hollow square
brick-dust
which
architecture.
was blazing with
This
was Aranjuez
sun-burned
with
its
cot-
tages and out-houses, trianons and statues, having nothing to

relieve
its
dullness
but
its
fountains, its
and the following description of

Aranjuez
ara
jovis
its
originally
pleasant
gardens,
history.
the
summer
residence
of
Lorenzo Suarez de Figuerra, Maestre de Santiago, became a

royal property
when the mastership was merged
in the
crown
HOME FOR OWLS.
under Ferdinand and Isabella.

shooting
villa,
and Philip
217
made
Charles V., in 1536,
Much, however, was burnt by a
additional buildings.
it
employed Herrera to construct
II.,
more taken down by Philip Y., who
rebuilt the place
fire,
and
Fran-
la
There the court resides every spring until June, when
gaise.
the place ceasing to be pleasant or healthy, as the heats act
upon the waters, and
the air with fever and ague, then roy-
fill
alty departs, leaving the villages to dullness
and
pestilence.
According to the people of Madrid, the ralley of Aranjuez

is
is
a Tempe, and, while the Escorial

of nature
and
is
the triumph of art, this
to those born
certainly,
amid the
silent,
treeless, arid Castiles, this place of water-brooks, gardens, sing-
ing-birds,
and verdure,
is
a happy change, although in America
much
the place would not be thought
Madrid there
of contradiction, while at
a garden, here there

edifice
is
of.
fine
is
Now,
as
palace without
fine
if
in a spirit
garden without a palace, as the
The
has small pretensions to royal magnificence.
dens were laid out by Philip

painted
II.,
gar-
and are such as Yelazquez
but the French chateau was completed by Charles

it
was
frequently plundered by the French under Soult, Yictor,
and
IY., the most driveling of Spanish Bourbons
others.
They converted the gardens
palace into a
at Yillatoro,
home
wrote immediately to
occupy Aranjuez
respect
for owls, yet the
" Take
the king's houses
care
into a wilderness,
Duke, even when

Hill,
and the
far
away
who was about
that the officers
and gardens."
when advancing a conqueror
again,
to
and troops
So Marlborough,
into France, after Malplaquet,
" ordered Fenelon's house to be spared."
Aranjuez, during the Jornada, or royal season, used to contain 20,000 persons in a
crowded and expensive discomfort
but when the court was absent,

10
it
dwindled down to 5000.
In
218
olden times the accommodations were iniquitous, for even the

deipnosophist diplomats lived in troglodyte houses burrowed in
the local rabbit-like style of these wretched
hill-sides, after
the
At
localities.
a subterraneous dinner, however, given by the
Nuncio, a cart broke through and announced
Charles III.,
sort
of
whereupon the Italian Grimaldi, minister to
nonce,
for the
who had
before been at the Hague, planned a
Dutch town, with avenues
changed the
an entree
itself as
village,
would have done
in
the street, and thus
in
as his celebrated namesake, the clown,
Aranjuez has a noble Plaza,
a pantomime.
de Toros, a tolerable theatre and a telegraph, which
was
set
up to amuse Ferdinand VII., whose passion was to hear something new.
It
said that the
is
message which he sent to
first
the grave council of Castile at Madrid, was "
brought to bed with twins

it
left
mar
going to Ocana
is
has been
"Had
the immediate answer was,
On
been a monk, that would have been news.
the
el
;"
A nun
the
hill
a pond, here called, as usual, the
to
sea,
de Ontigola.
The beloved Ferdinand

good old
by any means renounce the
did not
recreations of his royal ancestors, for he never missed
Herradura, to which he took

just as Philip IV., did his.
his
wives and maids of honor,
The cream
of the funcion
was
see-
ing an operation performed on young bulls, which fitted them

for the plough.
The term Herradura
is
derived from the brand-
ing cattle with a hot iron, Ferradura a ferro, which

ental origin,
and
is still
and was introduced by the Saracens
called la Ferrade at
prevailed in Spain
The
Camargue near
among the Goths (San
is
of Ori-
into France,
Aries.
Isidoro,
It also
Or.' xx. 16).
royal breeding establishments near Aranjuez, like those
near Cordova, were destroyed by the invaders, but restored by
Ferdinand VII.
visit
the
royal
stables
there
are
some
219
MELODIOUS NOISES.
Padres y Garanones
fine
for breeding
from mares and asses
the females are allowed to wander at liberty over a district on
purpose of great extent.
The palace
is
placed near the Tagus, at the Madrid end of
the village, or rather the " metropolis, of Flora/ 7 as the natives

say.
bald Plaza de
San
Carrousel, with a corredor
The
dust and glare.
and
pictures,
Antonio, a sort of French Place
and iron
which are no better.
railing, affords space for
interior of the palace contains
fresco ceilings
There
some bad
by Conrado Bayeu and

is
du
others,
some good marqueterie carving,
and the look-out on the gardens over the
parterre, the jardines
Here
all
the trees in Castile seem collected as a salon for a Cortes of
all
del Principe,
y de
la isla,
and cascade,
the nightingales of Spain, and

arid desert,
is
will
The
sweet, after the songless,
fine,
fall
among
the spread-
of water running violently."
take the visitor round the lions of the
the last fountain of which

others are
charming.
" the melodious noise of birds
ing branches, and the pleasing
The gardener
how
is
was painted by Velazquez
Isla,
the
and play on great holidays and royal birthdays.
best objects to observe are la Puerta del Sol, the Fountain
of the Swan, la Cascada, Neptune, and the Tritons
in
a word,
here Nereids, Naiads, and Dryads might sport, while Flora and
Pomona
II.
The elms brought from England by
looked on.
grow magnificently under
They were the
first
rareness, they are as
The Casa
thing of that
del
this
combined heat and moisture.
introduced into Spain, where, from their
much admired
as palm-trees are
Labrador, or laborer's cottage,
silly
Philip
Charles IV.
the English garden, as
all
is
by
another play-
The Florera or Jardin
foreigners call
us.
Ingles,
any irregular place
without order and with weeds, was laid out by Richard Wall,
an Irishman.
220
It
was at Aranjuez, March
19, 1808, that Charles TV., in
order to save his wife's minion, Godoy, abdicated the crown in

favor of Ferdinand VII.
letters written
Castile
Toreno prints
by him and
his wife, the
all
disgraceful
proud monarchs of
to Murat, their " very dear brother
the
!"
to Murat,
who
a few years before had been a pot-house waiter, and who, in

six
weeks afterwards, deluged their capital with Spanish blood.
Godoy, a
Buonaparte, was thus saved, in order to
vile tool of
consummate
his
guilt
and
by signing with Duroc,
folly,
at
Bayonne, the transfer of Spain to France, stipulating only,
mean
to the last, for filthy lucre
and pensions.
good breakfast at the inn of "Los Quatro Naciones,"
kept by an Englishman, with a lively bustling Frenchwoman
who
for a wife,
superintended the
cuisine,
gave us courage to
pursue our journey towards Toledo.
Nothing could exceed the

thither, or the
ing by the
dull
monotony of a
contrast of the
distant campagna,
and dreary aspect of the road

rendered
ride,
it
more torment-
Tagus meandering through the
and marking
its
course
vegetation and foliage growing along
Once
still
its
by the
rich belts of
banks.
happened, in order to vary the progress of our
journey, that the wheels of our carriage were buried in the

sand,
and were rescued with great
position
and again,
from their sunken
in spite of the remonstrance
the advice of the passengers,

into a very deep mud-puddle.
had been tempted
difficulty
into this
we were
He,
in
and against
driven by the majorat
more haste and
marsh by an attempt
less speed,
to save himself
the trouble of crossing over a bridge, which was in his regular
route
being once fixed in the rut, he persisted in not altering
his mind,
as
if
and exulted
in pursuing the bent of his perverseness,
delighted with the evil resulting from his disobedience
221
STUCK IN THE MUD.
to
sit
in,
however, there was naught but
we were some
four feet deep in the middle of
Once
commands.
of our
still,
for
a quagmire, with the water over our wheels, and oosing through
the door of the rotunde, so as to prevent any escape to the
There we remained,
land, except at the risk of a ducking.
occasionally thrusting our heads out of the
windows of the
coach, earnestly watching the movements of the muleteers,
were vainly endeavoring to force the vehicle out
who
while the
poor jaded mules stood up to their ears in water, imploringly

shrieking for pity, under the lashes of the majored and the
kicks and goads of the calesero.
There never was such a hal-
looing and cursing as the postillion indulged in from the back

of the leader, nor so
much
labor ever before expended in Spain
as in this useless endeavor to urge the animals through the
deep mud, which clogged the wheels in the bog.
coax a passing peasant
tried to
we might
sooner get out.
He
and treating the whole
reply,
for the loan of his oxen, that
only shrugged his shoulders in
affair as
truly Spanish indifference, leaving us to
of the
swamp
gesture,
that
we
could
and look over the
In vain we
a joke, quitted us with
make
the best
way
out
while a well-known significant
nose, betokened that he
glad we were so nicely stirring in the matter.
was very
Yerily, indeed,
says the proverb, "lazy people always take the most trouble."
Doubtless
we
should have remained there to this day, had
not appeared to some of

load
if
which
natural
we
relieved the
had not
that
us,
would materially lighten the
omnibus of our weight; a suggestion
previously
obstinacy of
it
my
occurred
to
us,
fellow-passengers,
owing to
the
being somewhat
strengthened by their dealings with the Spaniards; which
duced them to
it
rejoice at the perplexity of oar conductor,
in-
and
to the fact, that " there is," as Rochefoucauld says, " something
222
so very amusing in the misfortune of others," as even to suspend
the consideration of a slight personal annoyance, while
we laugh
at the mishaps of our fellow beings.
Having concluded that the quickest way of lightening the

window
stage was to climb out by the

to
jump from
of
the roof to the ground,
several feet,
process,
we
to the top,
and thence
by taking a forced leap
accordingly emptied the vehicle by this
and having been
safely landed near the pier-head of
we were soon
repaid by perceiving that the vehicle
the bridge,
was moving under the united
efforts of the driver
boy, in conjunction with the
goads and lashes of the
cries,
postillion,
and the
oaths, adjurations,
who was
post-
gibes,
alternately sup-
ported in his voice by the brayings of the donkeys, the yells

of our party, and the screams of the entire chorus of
animals together.
This
difficulty
all
having been overcome, the
passengers re-entered the interior, and in a few moments
were
off for the post of
the
we
our destination.
TOLEDO.
The aspect
of
Toledo
the
once
imperial
slighted for the upstart of Madrid, but the
the antiquary, was truly grand.

of
its
seven
hills,
still
Toledo
chosen city of
Seated high on the crowns
the lofty towers of the Alcazar, hospitals, and
glorious Cathedral loomed aloft above the circuit of

wall.
still
now
its
Moorish
This ancient seat of royalty, in olden times, appeared
more
interesting after
we had
charming position on the Tagus,

Its interior offers
many
is
entered within
its
gates.
almost unequaled in Europe.
curious relics of the Moors,
and the
remnants of the most exquisite architectural ornaments.

walls encompassing the
modern
Its
city, still
The
preserve the outlines
223
SPANISH GNATS.
and casements
of the
Moorish towers.
Both synagogues
in the
Jews' quarter, present traces of some of those rich arabesques

in the wainscotings
and
the admiration of the

imitations of
modern
around the entire
ceilings, that
while they have puzzled and defied
artist,
How
art.
I enjoyed the walks that led
A magical
circuit of this quaint old town.
transfer of thought
would often quickly
the lost age of Spanish glories

Isabel, of Philip
have ever since claimed
the
recall the
Here were pictured
forth the epochs of the ancient worthies of Spain,

as the
sure,
of
times of Ferdinand and
and Alphonso, the sage.
were as trusty and
memory
"good blades
whose hearts
of Toledo, " of
which Falstaff boasted.
We
lodged at the Fonda de la Caridad, an inn nearly
opposite the square of the Zocodover,

la Constitution;
dover"
ledo
the
here,
now
but I prefer the former
title
Plaza de
of the " Zoco-
Moorish term, so well suited to To-
truly, original,
distinctive title
yeiept, the
becoming to the
place,
and only proper
where old high towers, huge rambling balconies, tumbling
with mattings, and obtrusively projecting window blinds, clearly

tell
of their
mixed Spanish and Moorish descent.
ber on the wall, looking
down
into the court-yard of the inn,
and with a view commanding, by

peculiar
hills,
In a cham-
day-light, the range of its
and the waters of the turbid Tagus, I
fell
asleep
but was soon roused, and became
after the fatigues of the
day
staringly alive to this
contrast with the former splendors of
Toledo, for I was horribly tormented during the whole night by
a family of Spanish gnats.

If
my
"music be the food of
reflections, as I
love, play on,"
was suddenly awakened the next morning by
the strains of a duet, sung under

hostess'
was the burden of
my window by
a couple of
washerwomen, who were thus early engaged at
my
their tubs
224
Having always believed that
in the courtyard.
harmony
little
in
Spanish music, although
pretensions to rythm, I
its
there
was much
versification
claimed
was surprised to discover that
poetical ideas of their ballads
had been over estimated.
my
After
hearing these two girls through a dozen of their chants, I was
convinced that the beauty of their voices was only excelled
by homeliness
war blinds
little
of their persons,
in
the
particular
two maidens below, who were then
the
of
and that
smgmg" Jo no, quiero, no quiero, casar me,
Porque
" Oh, no
'T
es mejor, es mejor, ser soltero."
no
wish not to marry.
were better, much better,
was neither rhyme nor
there
reason,
to tarry."
and
less
truth in
my
former imaginations about the romance of Spanish songs, than

there was reality in the visions of perfection and loveliness
which
Don Quixote
Toboso, or in their
entertained for his charming Dulcinea del
own chances
for
matrimony on account of
their musical talent.
Requiring some consolation after so great a disappointment,

I sought relief in the past, and having proposed a walk entirely
around the
city of Toledo,
was soon
lost to all
remembrances of
the troubles of the last night, or the discordant sounds of the
morning.
Starting from the truly " Oriental-like " Gate of the
Sun," I crossed the Alemeda on -my
way
to the Hospital of St.
John, and resting there on the terrace that overlooked the
Tagus, was soon wrapped in meditations and musings suggested
by a
sight of the decayed splendor
and magnificent proportions
of the palatial castle of the Knights of St. John.

tions caused
me
to think of the
Like
reflec-
bygone supremacy of the
city
my
which was at
feet in ruins,
down and resumed
wind, I sat
225
SEVEN HILLS.
TAGUS
my
and casting
the perusal of
thoughts to the
its
history.
READING.
Imperial Toledo, the navel of the Peninsula, " the crown of
Spain, the light of the whole world, free from the time of the
mighty Goths," as
When
past.
but there
its
son Padilla addressed
seen from afar, nothing can be more imposing,
golden hierarchy
in perfect contrast
is
for here everything
is
Durham
This
rottenness in the core.
is
a city of the
it, is
with the modern capital,
venerable and antique.
solid,
of a once
It has not
been run up by Academicians to please the hurry of a king's

caprice, but
is
built like a rock,
stands on seven
hills,
The Tagus,
the sea.
and
is
Like Rome,
and on a rock.
it
about 2400 feet above the level of
boiling through the rent, or Tajo, of the
granite mountain, girdles
it
around, just leaving one approach
by the land
is
defended by Moorish towers and
side,
which
Inside, the streets, or rather lanes, are irregular, steep,
walls.
and tortuous; but such intentional intricacy rendered them easy

to defend
when
attacked, and kept
them cool
houses are massive and Moorish-like
own
secluded
castle,
and not
Here again we
Madrid.
awnings are drawn
in
in
reflect
is
or
summer, as at
bitter cold in winter
back the
lives in its
apartments as at
is
Seville.
collected from
and hot
in
which
Their areas are
Toledo, although deficient in water,
domestic uses.
It
each family
flats
The
summer.
find the Oriental patio, over
kept very clean, as the rain-water
town.
in
summer.
them
is
for
a clean
The
hills
sun's rays, but the river-meadows are pleasant
and the Tagus
is
Manzanares.
The Toledans,
indeed a river, and not a dry ditch like the

like their houses, are solid
10*
and
226
trustworthy old Castilians, and

Castellano
glorious
spoken in
is
pronunciation, which
muy
all
Here the
ho?nbres de Men.
its
grammar and
purity of
slow and guttural.
is
In the heart of the city towers the cathedral, around which
and convents, many now
cluster multitudinous churches
Even Salamanca, a
as tombs.
city of learning
was
silent
scarcely
more hardly treated by the invaders than Toledo, the
see of
the primate.
The foundation
i.e.,
it
of Toledo
is
of course ascribed to Hercules,
the Phoenicians; others, however, prefer Tubal,
143 years to a day after the deluge; nor have
yet forgiven the
that
"Adam
Abbe
its
who
built
townsfolk
de Yayrac for saying that they boasted
was the
first
king of Toledo, and the newly
created sun rose over this spot, because the centre and throne
of the world."
Be
that as
it
may, Toledo, when taken by
Marius Fulvius, U. C. 561, 193 B. C, was " urbs parva sed

loconiunita" (Livy, xxxv. 22).
from Tcledoth, the
The name has been derived
Hebrew" city of generations,"
as having been
when Jerusalem was taken by NebuchadNo doubt many Jews did fly to "Tarshish," to the
their place of refuge
nezzar.
"uttermost parts of the earth," in order to escape the calamities in Palestine;
the Moors,
it
was
and certainly when Toledo was

filled
with Hebrews,
" Amalekites," who, resenting
taken by
they called them,
the Gothic persecution,
tated the progress of the Berbers,
Jews and half Pagans.
or, as
first
who
facili-
themselves were half
The extraordinary
spoil proves
how
rich the city then was.
Conde
interprets Toledo, quasi Tolaitola, "altura perfectum,"
or atalaya grande, from the Arabic attalah, a place of look-out,
and to
this
beacon and
day the Alcazar towers nobly over the

sentinel.
Leovigildo, under
w hom
T
the
city, its
Gothic
OLD AS THE HILLS.
monarchy was consolidated, removed
made Toledo
221
from
his court
His
the capital of Spain.
successor, Recaredo,
brought the kingdom entirely into the Christian

here were held so
many
and
Seville,
fold,
and hence
of those important councils which give
such insight into the spirit and condition of that age, for they
were convocations and parliaments, as the sacerdotal
in reality,
united social and
aristocracy
who have been

repaired
civil
The Goths,
supremacy.
unjustly stigmatized as destructive barbarians,
and improved the
city,
portions of which exist, for Toledo
and
bridges
was one
Roman
walls,
of the few towns
exempted from the decree of Witiza, by which so many others

were simultaneously dismantled, as
But
to the invader.
if
to render conquest easier
history in Spain
always reproducing
is
itself.
Wamba
was the benefactor of Toledo,

over the great gate,
inscription
inclytus urbem,
for
Wamba
del
is
Wamba."
proverbially
memory, as "old as the
Wamba w as
is
" Erexit
is
recorded in the
fautore
Deo rex
indeed " a long time ago,"
the Japetus of Spain, and the phrase en
Key Wamba,
T
This
as
hills/'
an
denotes
te?nps
half poisoned, in 687,
el
tiempo
a date beyond legal
ou
la
Heine Berthefilait.
by Ervigius, and, when
supposed to be dead, was clad, as usual, in a monk's dress for

burial
and,
therefore,
when he recovered was compelled
The
quarrels between
to
the usurper and
continue the
cowl.
rightful heirs
weakened the Gothic government, and enabled
the Moors, in 714, to subdue the divided kingdom, just

afterwards, in 1492, the dissensions of the
way
to their final defeat
of Toledo,
when
their
by Ferdinand and
as,
Moslems paved the

Isabella.
The Jews
Moorish friends seized their money,
turned to the avenging Christian, and facilitated the conquest

of the city, in 1085, by Alonso VI.,
who thereupon took
the
228
Emperor
of
title
imperial throne " for the bearing on
Cid as
shield,
its
on an
and naming the
Toledo, honored by the sovereign, and
Alcaide.
its first
" himself seated
giving
of Toledo,
made the primacy of a rich clergy, was always loyal thus,

when Burgos disputed its new precedence in Cortes, Alonso
;
"
XI. exclaimed,
Let Burgos speak
first
I will speak for
Toledo, which will do what I wish."
Casting a retrospect over the
we can now
recall the
the lines of
its
image of
noble
above the
and
edifices,
and running
its
Moorish
fortifications
that hung like
and defences.
fortresses
and mural
outlines
arose
brilliant shrines projected against the sky,
in easy succession along the
Before these walls
hills.
former splendor, and restore
ancient walls, circumventing this capital, with
its
turbans on the frontage of

far
its
of this illustrious city,
towers and swelling buttresses,
uplifted
While
memory
we view
summits of the seven
the plain, stretching
its
velvet length of green along the course of the Tagus, until the
distant mountains skirted
the traces of a
Roman
relieved the eye-sight.
of
the
points
its
circus
in that direction,
and a ruin
where
basilic terminated,
and
Turning to the
right,
we
catch a view
Wamba,
with
its
fragmentary
crumbling palace of
still
bounds
rising over the remains of
an Arab bath,
in
whose
waters beauties once laved their limbs, and warriors beheld the
gambols of the
fair
from
above the charms of
Now,
his terrace
water-nymphs.
Here Roderick beheld

this
Gothic Bathsheba.
we watched the figures of ignoble

who were guarding the gangs of convicts, while they
washed hemp for their own hanging, it might be in the
at the water's edge
soldiers,
running waters of the Tagus.

First walk round this most picturesque old city, beginning at
the north-eastern land approach; descend to the Puerta del Sol,
RAMBLING JUDARIA.
229
a rich Moorish gate of granite horseshoe arches, with upper

intersecting ones of red brick,
and follow the old road which
winds down by the church of Santiago; observe
and
portico,
which Alonso
Arabice,
entered
" gate
of the
to be
Via sacra, the road by
Bib
simply
is
country;" and the rich
pastoral district between Illescas and Aranjuez
La
is
it
the
Hebrew
Sakra,
cereal
still
Sayra, Arabice, " the open country, the support."
read in
The
called la Puerta lodada.
triumph,
in
courtyard,
on to the Puerta de Visagra,
absis; thence pass
now blocked up, and therefore

name Visagra, said by some
its
and
called
Others
Sahar, " bright," as being the east gate,
on which the rising sun would
shine,
and through which " those
who went out early," Saharaim, would pass.

The Alemeda outside this gate was planted in 1826, by the
Corregidor Navarro, who laid out the gardens and Plazuda
de Marchan,
but the statues of Toledan kings are bad and
heavy.
fine
outline of convents
invader, crests
the
hill
and
palaces,
all
ruined by the
running by the lunatic hospital,
el
Nuncio, to the pinnacled gate of Cambron.
Entering the town by the Gate of Saint Martin, you are

struck
w ith
T
the elegance of the exquisite cloisters, with pointed
Gothic arches, of San Juan de

in their style,
los
and purely Gothic.
tecture in their day.
Reyes.
They are simple
They were models
of archi-
in the rear of the
rambling
Beyond, and
quarter of the Judaria, are the remains of two richly embellished synagogues, preserving slight evidences of their former
magnificence.
mouldings
in
The honey-comb
Tarkish on the
blues,
and greens are
and
ceilings, retain
beautiful colors in which they
and
cornices
had
still
first
vivid
rich open-work
the freshness of the
been painted.
and pure.
How
The
reds
exquisite
230
are the traceries and ornaments of the
decorated columns,
running in spiral transverses of serpentine fantastics and arabesque.
One
of the synagogues although less ancient,
better preserved
it is
called
el
is
finer
and
Transito, from a picture of the
death of the Virgin, which has disappeared during recent

reforms.
Cruel,
was
It
built
who, however,
by Levi, treasurer to Don Pedro the

1360, being in want of cash, and
in
knowing the value of a Jew's
tortured and killed poor
eye,
He had
Levi, and then seized his money-bags.
ronized the Jews,
who
previously pat-
soon became so rich and numerous that
the other synagogue was too small, and this splendid "place of
jama or mosque
congregation," owayoyrj, the precise
Moor, was
Hebrew
Gothic, Moorish, and
built in a mixture of the
style,
of the
which must indeed have once been gorgeous, but
the Spaniards have disfigured the east end with a trumpery

gilt retablo
that conceals the lace-like embroidery; the upper
parts, being out of reach,
have escaped better, so observe the
honey-comb cornice, the rows of engrailed Moorish arches, and
the superb artesonado roof.

tains
arms of Leon and
the
Hebrew
inscription.
broad band with foliage conCastile,
Isabella, in
and
is
edged with a
1494, gave the building to
the order of Calatrava; then the holy of holies was converted

into
an archive,
and the
dwelling of the animal
There
is
galleries
who
is
called
of the
el
Jewesses into a
custodio or conserje.
a history of the Sepharaim or Spanish Jews, by
James Finn, 1841, which by no means exhausts the subject.

They were of a very high caste and although persecuted by
Goth, Moor, and Spaniard, by followers of creeds both alike
;
daughters of the Old Testament, they clung closely to their

faith.
Strange religionists
who
turned,
when
the only depos-
231
SCYTHE OF REVENGE.
itories of the real
word
of
God, to every
a golden calf (and probably because

the thunders of
came
Mount
Sinai,
and
worshipping
idolatry,
was golden,) even under
it
when
yet,
the true Messiah
to supersede the old law, then they clung doggedly to
what they before abandoned.

the favored locality of the
Spain (Tarshish) was always
Jew when
away from
forced
Pales-
Being men of peace and money, they were always per-
tine.
secuted by the
men
who seldom can
live
on their pay.
Such was the Judaicus Fiscus of Domitian (Suet.
12,) such the
policy of Tiberius,
of war,
who banished
all
not abjure their creed (Tac. 'An.'

of religion
The
rice.
Jews from Italy who would
ii.
85,) for the purification
was always made the pretext
of appropriating ava-
Christian Goths, equally fond of
money
Ro-
as the
mans, found an additional accusation in the guilt of the cruci-
In 694, by the seventeenth council of Toledo, the Jews
fixion.
were ordered to be cut
off
with the " scythe of revenge," for
corresponding with the "Filistins" of Barbary.
when
was then,
It
driven by persecutions, that they called in the avenging
Moors, and opened the gates of Toledo,
it
is
said,
on Palm
Sunday, when the Christian garrison was worshipping at the
tomb
For
of Santa Leocadia.
this service
favored by the Moslem, and, being
again so
dan
rich,
nostrils,
left in
and they were
Alonso VI., who
As
him money)
traitors
cash.
who
in the civil
by the
successful
Christians,
were
became
MohammeIn
either strangled or robbed.
also for a time
they sided with
first
peace, soon
that their heresies began to stink in
dilemma they turned to the avenging
them.
they at
and
this
let in
encouraged and protected
Don Pedro
(because they had lent
wars of 1369, they were treated as
Henrique
Then ensued the crusades
II.,
of
who
confiscated their
San Vicente de
Ferrer,
imitated the great modern master of Jewish persecution,
232
the perfidious Philippe
le
Bel of France, son of Saint Louis,
and murderer of two popes.
The Spanish Jews, having been
long hunted like beasts and impoverished, were finally expelled
from Spain by Isabella,
in 1492,
who
Yast numbers
in their chronicles.
therefore
on the Mohamme-
settled
dan shores of the Mediterranean, where
their descendants
Many, however, remained behind,
speak Spanish.
to be Christians, but in secret following their
And
mammon.
called Jesebel
is
some
exist
still
a curious
own
still
professing
and
religion
fact discovered
Mr. Borrow, and quite unknown to Spaniards.
by
These Jews
are quiet and in easy circumstances, trafficking in wool and

longanizas, which they
sell,
but do not
dictio
their existence, the
name Jew,
taught to think
cry of Juiada
is
still
the male-
foreigners to be heretics
all
is
Carnarvon
"I
still
am
be a Jew among
a friend to the
human race
How
if
indeed there
us, burn him, I say, burn him, alive."
spirit of
some noble Spanish

its
cathedral,
figure of a mysterious priest to pry into

its
" I hate
a Yalencian Liberal to Lord
the gorgeous wonders of
treasures of
The
and Jews.
a prelude to certain murder.
then with the raised
visit
even in this century,- were
Spaniards,
oppression in every shape," said
and
Judio,
pessima the JVimreseth, the insult never to be forgiven,
anathema maranatha.
Go
pork enters largely
Although the Spaniards are una-
into this excellent sausage.
ware of
eat, as
artist,
or join the
and pore over the
invaluable library.
rich are the illustrations
of the illuminated missals of
the monks, those great conservators of literature and art during
They were the earnest
the middle ages.

artists of fervent
lovers of the beautiful,
devotion to their labors of love and piety
solemn, silent silk
worms
the
enriching their sepulchres and spin-
ning their webs of imperishable colors into their shrouds of tran-
233
CASTLE OF CERVANTES.
The breviary
scendent grace.
sumed a
V. must have con-
of Charles
and
its
Transported again to the banks of the Tagus,
we
lifetime in the completion of the manuscript
illustration.
walked over the ground near the splendid bridge

tin,
and from
with
its
this side
of Saint
Mar-
caught a picturesque view down the
river,
combination of
fine
subjects for the painter,
and land-
scapes embracing a series of old castles, pretty ruins, waterfalls,
and old Moorish
One
mills.
or two of these pictures will
remind you of the sombre grandeur and glorious
effects of Sal-
vator Rosa, as wild in contrasts of light and shadow as they

are in the mystery of his works, and uniting in one canvas all
harmony with the confusion of a
the graces of
While wandering over the
composition.
hills,
chaos, in the
the artist might
stop at the mill that surmounts the bluff where the Tagus
now
bends to the frown of the opposite mountain, and here take a

siesta
at
the hour of noon, or
may occupy
sketch of the scene where the old dueiia

miller's daughter,
sits
w ho
r
is
by a
his leisure
chatting with the
washing out her red bandanna as she
is
on a rock beside the stream, and then coquettishly winks at
Have you
the mill-boy trudging along with his mule.

seen Salvator's
Women
to Toledo, and
dream
race,
my
reader
of the miller's daughter,
on the opposite side from the town, you
that there
also,
at the Stream,
is
some truth
in this fiction.
a superb look at the city and
and afterwards you may
learn, as
its
never
Then go
and by the
will
mill-
soon discover
There you may
get,
on a
hill,
position, set
you are walking beyond to the
top of the mountain, that the old castle of Cervantes on the
summit, was not named from the author of

knight of
La Mancha
bitter reflection," re-enter the city
tara,
and admire
its
Don
Quixote, the
then " chewing the quid of sweet
fine
and
by the bridge of the Alcan-
proportions and noble span, and the
234
group of the numerous water-mills that are running with the

force of the Tagus.
Ascend the
down on
to the
hill
left,
and
rest for a
moment
to look
the roofless Ingenio, the water-work engine, whose
ruin seems
made
Toledo, built on a lofty rock, was
for artists.
badly supplied with water, whereupon the
Romans spanned
the defile with a gigantic viaduct and aqueduct, which ran from
When
the Puerto de Yevenes, distant seven leagues.
the
Moors
conquered Toledo, there was also an enormous naiirah, noria,

or water-wheel, ninety cubits high, which forced up water by
pipes, a
The Toledan Moors were
work of the Jews.
hydraulists
(see
Moh. D./
'
ii.
Al-mamun
262): their king,
Ibn Dhi-a-niin, or Yahya, had a lake
in his palace,
and
middle a kiosk, from whence water descended on each

enclosing
him
in the coolest of
Kasr Dubarra, now

by Az-Zarcel, the
existing at Cairo.
also
which Daniel Merlac came
from Oxford in 1185.

in
side,
houses, exactly as
Here
the
were made,
Charles V.,
who
all
the
way
delighted in mechanin
and the same year he brought from Cremona a
watchmaker named Juanelo Turriano, to repair the

which
thus
is
1565 caused some Greeks to descend at Toledo
diving-bell,
noria,
in the
clepsydra, or water-clocks, for astronomical
calculations, to study
ics,
summer
first-rate
in
original
1568 forced up 600,000 buckets of water
daily.
Disputes, however, arose between the crown and the corporation as " conservators of the river,"
family were ruined.
Soon
after the
which the natives could not

English company,
who
repair,
between
whom
the Turriano
Tagus damaged the engine,

and thereupon applied to an
declined, since
when the
ruin has been
complete, and Toledo, the "light of the world," obtains
its
water by the primitive machinery of donkeys, driven up and down
by
water-carriers,
still
called
by
their
Arabic name azacams.
SUK
High above
235
MARKET-PLACE.
the latter, the noble form of the Alcazar, once
the palatial seat of Moorish royalty and Christian king, rises in

its
majesty, and toppling over the banks of a precipice, hangs
tremulously projecting one
The
the river.
oldest
of- its buttresses
portions
overlook the Tagus,
Presburg does the Danube.
castle of
although
It
now
days of revelry and joust within
view from the tower embraces the entire

including in
its
as the
and
in ruins,
its
past his-
its walls,
circuit of the
the
Toledan
sweep the remote demesnes of Aranjeuz.
[Now proceed to the

Lazarillo de
is
remains to recall the splendors of
little
tory, or of its
hills,
over the waters of
Zocodove?-,
a name which to readers of
Tonnes and Cervantes
haunt of rogues
recalls the
and of those proud and poor Don Whiskerandos who swaggered

and starved with
their capas
and Soke
in Spanish,
in English, signify
vicinity to cathedrals, for
hand
commerce and
Suk
in Arabic, Zoco
a " market-place/' and
went hand
religion
in
the shrine attracted multitudes and " money-changers,"
while
y espadas.
sanctity
its
Moorish, with
its
This plaza
protected commerce.
is
most
irregular windows, balconies, blacksmiths,
picturesque peasantry, and in
summer evenings
is
and
a fashionable
promenade.
Now
a long and almost the only widish street in Toledo
leads to the Gothic cathedral, whose exterior

tiful
is
nor symmetrical, while the north entrance
not very beauis
blocked up
the best points of view are to the north-west, either from the
Plaza
dc
San
grand facade
Yuste or that del Ayuntamiento, to which the

looks.
Only one tower
begun by Tenorio, and completed

325
feet
in
is
finished,
which was
1535 by Tavera.
It rises
high from a square base to a Gothic middle story, end-
ing with a thin spire encircled as with crowns of thorns.
cupola of the other tower
is
after designs of
El
The
Greco; the
236
Perdon are ascended and descended by
steps of the Puerto del
pregnant women,
chronicles state that this temple
The church
Virgin while she was
heaven to
alive,
was
built to the
and that she often came down from
accompanied by
it,
an easy parturition.
in order to ensure
St. Peter, St. Paul,
and Santiago.
Converted by the Moors into their grand mosque, Alonzo VI.

guaranteed
first
it
them
to
but ere the ink was dry, Bernardo, the
archbishop, backed by the queen, Constanza, a native of
moment the king was absent, seized the

mosque and dispossessed the Moors then the Alfa que, foreFrance
like himself, the
seeing that resistance
building was pulled

self laid
the
it
down
1226 by
in
was completed
PadihVs mob, and again

it
useless, interceded
St.
with Alonzo
Ferdinand,
stone of the present cathedral
first
Pedro Perez,
was
in
in
art
the
who him-
designed by
1492, plundered in 1521 by
1808 by
was a mine of wealth and
La
Houssaye.
thus Cean
Previously
Bermudez enume-
by
rates 149 artists, who, during six centuries, were employed
the richest prelates of Spain to
make a temple worthy
of the
primacy, a dignity which was long held by the master mind of
The
the day.
older archbishops of Toledo were great alike in
peace and war
the Rodrigos headed victorious armies, the
Tenorios built bridges, the Fonsecas founded colleges, the
Men-
dozas and Ximenez were third kings and regents, they founded
universities,
while the Taveras and Lorenzanas raised houses
of charity and hospitals.
Before entering,
examine the
exterior
and
gates.
La
Puerto, del los Leones, at the extremity of the south transept,
is
so called from the lions with shields on pillars.
Now
a long street leads to the Cathedral, a rich depository
of ecclesiastical wealth
ornament
and power, displaying an excess of
in the tracery of its walls
and doors.
The superb
237
ORIENTAL PICTURE.
coro
and high
chapels and beautifully colored
altar, brilliant
and stained glass
in the
window
carved works, tombs and

legacies of that
panes, with
relics of
its
monuments and
the kings, together with the
princely minister
Mendoza,
in the superbly
lighted and elegantly supported cloisters, lend a
charm of won-
derment and delight, which are by no means sustained by the

irregular proportions of
its
its
exterior or the diminutive size of
tower
As we
dwelt in imagination over the
there arranged before the
mind
many
striking features
in pleasurable fancy,
we
could
not but admire the Oriental aspect of a vision so replete with

scenes of Arabian splendor and magnificent form.
with curtains of parti-colored
folds,
Windows
and mattings spread before
doors of the Moorish houses, with horse-shoe arches shielding

their inmates
from the
fierce heats of Spain, while the interior
courtyards aided to shelter the dwellers in this " land of the sun,"
and verdant gardens smiling wath rich
fumed
flowers,
clusters of sweetly per-
amid fountains of graceful form and
brilliant jets
of water, created lively enthusiasm in every turn of our pleasant
day-dreams, while
of beauty
we mused
in mirthful revery over this picture
and amenity, with thoughts that were shaded with
the allegories of the East, and retrospects that ascribed to the

lovely scenery about Toledo a fascination of enchantment some-
what akin
to the clime of the Bulhul, the enjoyment of the
Persian, or the cherished birthright of the favored children of
Damascus, the home and the

image was
still
first
further prolonged
love of the Moors.
by the low
This
plaints of the
peasants at work at their daily tasks, whose monotonous voices,
and
airs in the
minor key reminded us of the songs of the Nile,
while the dresses of the men, wrapped in the folds of their
huge Spanish
cloaks, recalled the bernoos of the Bedouins,
no
238
less
than the sleepers in the
streets,
stretched out in
happy
indolence like the children of the desert, with a hot sun staring
them
Thus we were constantly reminded of the
in the face.
former presence of the Moors in Spain, and imagination lent

easy aid to bring back the images of these swarthy progen-
its
itors,
soil
whose footprints
remain indelibly stamped upon the
will
of the Peninsula.
TOLEDO BLADES.
The celebrated fabrica
swords,
is
de armas, or manufactory of
Toledan
placed on the banks of the Tagus, about two miles
south-west of the
city.
The huge building was
Charles III. by Sabatini, and
The blades here
is
raised
for
well provided with forges, etc.
are of a fine temper and polish, and so elastic
that they are sometimes packed up in boxes, curled up like the
mainspring of a watch, or " compassed," as Falstaff says, "like
a good Bilboa, in the circumference of a peck,

heel to head."
Arms were
the joy and
Spaniards, nay, dearer than
life,
for
life
hilt to point,
of the aboriginal
when they were taken
from them the disarmed committed suicide (Livy, xxxiv. 17;

Sil. Ital.
iii.
330
Justin, xliv. 2, 5).
Their swords were adopted by the Romans,

the epithet Spanish for their
tinguishes between
(v.
Velites,
and Polybius
who
(iii.
retained
114)
dis-
them and those of Gaul, while Diod. Siculus
356) enlarges on their merits and mode of manufacture.
Their double edge was no
less fatal
dirk, the prototype of the
modern
than the genuine Iberian

cuchilio,
which Cicero
pugiwncwlws Hispaniensisj but the vernacular

(daggarj, which the
Greeks rendered
Thus the hidalgo was ordered by Philip
name was
ifya^v,
II. in
unde
calls
daga,
broquel.
1564, only to
DOUBLE-HANDED
EDGED.
appear with his espada (spatha) and
was
latter
to cut
is
his broqucl; the use of the
meat and despatch a prostrate
called misericordia ;
as the cuchillo
239
was worn by the Iberians
it
now
in the fajas (Livy,
Iberian Pugio, see Mart. xiv. 33
Strabo,
in their girdles,
10).
vii.
hi.
and hence
foe,
231
On
the
and Diod.
Siculus, y. 356.
The
identical mines
worked by the ancients
finest ores, for the soil of
Spain
is
still
produce the
Those near
iron-pregnant.
Calatayud on the Jalon, the "steel-tempering"
rival
Bilbilis,
the metals of the Basque provinces and the iron mountains

(Pliny,
'N. H.' xxxiv. 14) of Somorrostro and Mondragon;
the steel was buried in the earth in order that the baser por-
might rust away; while the modern hierro
tions
iron,
helado, frozen
corresponds with old effect of the Jalon, qui ferrum gelat
(Martial,
i.
the blade,
when red
when reduced
was put
The
50, 12).
hot,
steel
in winter,
and
in the cold air,
and
was tempered
was whirled round
to a cherry heat (cerezado of present practice)
into oil or grease,
and then into boiling water (see
Mondragon, R. 121).
The Military Romans kept up the Iberian processes and

manufactories, which were continued
Isidoro (Or. xvi. 20).
See San
by the Goths.
The Moors introduced
their
Damascene
system of additional ornament and tempering, and so early as
852
this identical fabrica at
Toledo was in work under Abd-r-
rahman Ben Alhakem (Conde,
i.
285).
The Moors introduced
a large double-handed double-edged sword (Conde,
which became the model of mediaeval montante.

are of
El
Morillo,
el
Moro
dc
The
i.
456),
best marks
Zaragoza (on these brands
see
Lett. 13 of 'Dillon's Travels in Spain').
The next
made by
settled at Zaragoza,
Italians,
by Andre Ferrara, who
best were
and by whom were furnished those splendid blades which Fer-
240
dinand sent to Henry VIII. on his marriage with his daughter
These " trenchant swords were the Toledos trusty,"
Catherine.
of which, says Mercutio, " a soldier dreams."
weapons which Othello, the Moor, "kept

a treasure
"a sword
never did
itself
marks are
la loba
upon a
and named them

of God,"
Kaled ben Walid
in his
Mahomet
cause,
opima from Moorish
his spolia
and daughters, and which
figure
his wife
v.
me envaines
sin honor ;
Do
e.
g.
No
not draw
The
mottos
me saqua
me
without
introduction of
blow to Toledan swords, which then
cavalry, in which the Spaniards do not excel.
blow was the fashion of the smaller French sword,
which dispossessed the Spanish

ancient Spanish arms, the
('Historia Liter aria,
cuchillada,
is
hi.
etc.
336).
Foils with buttons are called
Guerra at
was the answer of Palafox
Consult the essay on
called cuchillo, the blade cuchilla, a
a stab estocada.
negras, without blancas.
rapier.
Lancea, Gaesum, Olisideron,
Mohedano,
In Spanish, the sword
gash
Many have
154).
do not sheath me without honor.
last
sword
which
fire-arms dealt the first
The
of
the Tisona, " the sparkling brand,"
Romancero (Duran,
became the arm of
in
The Moors petted
called his the "
indicative of the fine old Castilian spirit,

sin razon, no
is
his queridas prendas, carasaprendas,
he loved better than
much
swords in the world
been honored in Spain.
like children
These were
at Toledo,
The sword, the type and arm
and Colada of the Cid were

kings.
made
dog,
del Rei.
the Armaria at Madrid.
so
little
finest collection of historical
chivalry, has always
like
Other good
soldier's thigh."
the
el perillo,
by a Moor named Julian
The
chamber"
in his
of Spain, the ice-broods temper ; a better
sustain
and
These were the
to the
cuchillo, or,
summons
generally follows the other national cry,
war
to the knife,
of surrender
Mueran
los
and
gavachos,
OLD SWORDS
death to the miscreant French.

p.
241
OLD CASTLES.
For
knives,
Albacete,
see
504.
The
transition from
old swords to old castles
is
easy
Toledo was the capital of the south frontier of Spain,

well defended against the
Monies de Toledo, Sierra
hilly lines of
moat
rivers of the
defence.
Moors by mediaeval
del
it
fortresses.
Duque,
as
was
The
with the
etc.,
Tagus and Guadiana, formed noble
sites for
These wild and picturesque scenes have scarcely been
investigated
but well deserve more notice from the
antiquarian.
11
artist
and
242
HIGHWAY
TO SEVILLE
THE ROAD.
We had whiled away
the best portion of the day after our
return from Toledo, and had refreshed our eyes with the contrasts that the pleasant
walks and cooling fountains of the
Palace yielded to the hot sand and scorching influences of the
Madrid
sun, until
we were favored with a
seat inside of the
which was passing through Aranguez on
diligence,
from the capital to
At
Seville.
its
10 o'clock at night
route
we
fell
we remained
on the morrow that
asleep in the middle of the coupe, and there
speechless and thoughtless until I learnt
I had been closeted
Spanish hidalgo.
dull,
On
in the
dark with a French Count, and a
that day I was weary enough of the
dreary and desolate country through which
having nothing to relieve

guide-book's description of
my mind
Ocafia, La
we were
driven,
but the perusal of
my
Guardia, and other unin-
teresting places passed during the night.
Now,
as to
Spaniards,
The Junta
November
entreaties, to
really to
most important
19, 1809, lost a
of Seville determined,
warning and
seem
Ocana, between which and Los Barrios, the
in
battle.
defiance of the Duke's
assume the
offensive.
His
letters
have been written after the events, and not
before them, so truly did he prophesy certain discomfiture, the

loss of
Andalucia, and his
own compulsory
retreat into Portu-
243
BATTLE OF LOS BARRIOS.
The Junta prepared an army of 60,000 men, armed and

equipped by England.
Command was given to one Juan Cargal.
los
de Areizaga,
who advanced from
the
defiles,
giving out that
the English were with him; and such fear thereupon prevailed
at Madrid, where the report
was
that the
believed,
thought at once of retreating without a
fight;
enemy
and had Arei-
zaga advanced, he must have surprised and overwhelmed the

handful of French at Aranjeuz.
Having, however, by
his
delay given Soult the means of collecting troops, he then, as
There two short hours
infatuated, risked a battle in the plain.
more than
sufficed for
if
25,000 French to put 55,000 Spaniards
to an indescribable rout, during which Areizaga placed himself
on a belfry
in
Ocana, a mute spectator of
his
own
disgrace,
giving no directions whatever, except to order his reserve, a
body of 15,000 men, who had not

and Freire then
set the
fired
example of
a shot, to retreat.
flight;
He
nor did either even
attempt to make a stand behind the impregnable rocks of

JDespeha-perros Alcald la Real.
by
Their unhappy troops, deserted
La Mancha was
their chiefs, could but follow their leaders.
covered with runaways.

oners,
and
Soult took 42 cannon, 26,000 pris-
killed 5,000, while his loss barely reached 1,600.
Buonaparte, who, jealous
that
it
could be
supposed in
France that any one could do great things except himself (Foy,
i.
159), scarcely mentioned the victory in the Monilewr; yet as a
victory
it
was most important,
tering throne, gave
Granada
since
it
fixed Joseph on the tot-
to Sebastiani, Seville to Soult,
and
place the treasures and supplies of rich unpillaged Andalucia

in the
hands of the ravenous invaders.
whose great plans were thus
" Alas
frustrated,
" said the
Duke,
"that a cause which
promised so well a few weeks ago, should have been so completely lost
by the
ignorance, presumption,
and mismanagement
244
of those to whose direction
"Nothing would do but
1809.)
6,
plains, in
which their defeat
is
(Disp.
December
fighting great battles in
as certain as
is
the commencement
Ferdinand VIL, a prisoner at Yalengay, was
of the battle."
mean
was confided."
it
or false enough, probably both, to write to congratulate
Joseph on
this victory (Schep.
it,
instead of being cashiered,
fine horse,
i.
who
69); while Areizaga,
lost
was presented by the Junta with
and was afterwards made Captain General of
Biscay, by this very Ferdinand, in 1814.
After the battle, the wretched town of Ocafia was mercilessly
who then
sacked by Soult,
destroyed the precious ar-
chives of the Ayuntamiento.
La
Guardia, rising on a ridge of rocks, was once an outpost
Here, and indeed generally in the
guard against the Moors.
corn-growing central plains, the traveler should remark the

the
common Spanish and
air,
and the driving the
orientel threshing-floors in the
open
over the corn, without horses, after
trilo
The
the most Homeric fashion.
eras,
Swiss, half Dutch, with their blue

kerchiefs under their chins.
females, hereabouts, look half
and green petticoats and hand-
The miserable
population, driven
from their houses, that were gutted by the French, and which
they are too poor to repair, burrow like rabbits in trogloditeexcavations,
ascends the
whence they emerge to beg of the diligence as

Madridejos with
hill.
its nice, cool,
it
and refreshing
inn furnished us with excellent bread, although the water was
bad, and the cheese not
much
better,
however well
Alforgas of honest, hungry, Sancho Panza,

digestion.
Four
Argamasella
del Alba,
Don
Quixote.
miles
are
did for the
his muleteer
from Manzanares, to the
in the prison of
Now we
and
it
right,
is
which Cervantes wrote
in the middle of the scenes so
admirably described by Cervantes in his romance and
it
is
don Quixote's territory.
245
Don
convenient place to start from on a trip into

country.
putation
stones,
in
El
Toboso
the
name
which
making
still,
is
is
Quixote's
a poor place, although of European rederived from the tolas, or sort of porous
as in the time of Cervantes, are
much used
According to Cervantic commentators,
water-jars.
the original of the Don's sweetheart Dulcinea, Aldonza Lorenzo
Corchuelo, was a Miss Aldonza (a word which means sweet)
Zarco de Morales, and she lived in the
still
existing
Continuing the high road to Seville
Torrecilla.
Lapiche, a poor place, where the
Don
Casa
is
de
Puerto
informed Sancho that

" Pass "
The
they might get elbow-deep in adventures.
is
placed between two olive-clad gentle slopes, with sundry groups

of windmills, which being smaller than ours, are really not unlike
is
giants at a distance
much corn
a country of
they are very numerous, for this

to grind,
The crack-brained knight might

for they
little
well be puzzled
man
and had
of the age,
a steam engine
by these
mills,
just before perplexed even Cardan,
who
"Nor can
describes one as
if it
it
the
is
so
I could neither believe nor re-
late without incurring the imputation of credulity

for science
had been
what
I pass over in silence
wonderful, that before I saw
At
water power,
were novelties at that time, having only been introduced
into Spain in 1515,
the wise
and
but a thirst
overcame bashfulness."
Vent a de
Quesada
Don Quixote
(quesada, lantern-
jawed) was knighted, and Cervantes must have sketched the

actual inn, and
its still
existing well.
The water communicates
with the Quadiana, the underground Mole of Spanish
Indeed the ancient name, Anas,
is
rivers.
derived from this "hide and
seek" propensity; Hanas in the Punic, and Hanasa in the Arabic,
signifying
"to appear and disappear."
Lwcalee by the Spanish Gitanos.
It
is
called the
246
The Wadi-Anas,
like the Guadalquiver,
through loamy banks

Ruidera, and loses
Tomelloso
it
again fifteen miles from
itself
its
source, at
re-appears after flowing seven leagues under-
The Jakes which
ground at Daymiel.
the eyes, Los ojos de la
in regard to the
it
throws up are called
Guadiana, and the ground above
This and the
called the bridge.
eyes
Pont ISeuf
is
lead to trivial witticisms,
dark glancing Manchegas and
superiority over the

is
way
swamps, or Lagunas de
rises in the
it
eats its dull
at Paris.
this bridge's
The disappearance
not sudden like that of the Rhone, which descends into a
gulf,
as here
it is
sucked up into unpicturesque marshes.
chief interest arises
savors of romance and

exists in the
The Cueva
de Monte-
Campo
peerage of Charlemagne, really
the
de Montiel, which
was the
last scene of the
warfare between Pedro the Cruel and Henry of
fratricidal
Trastamara,
who
here killed his king and brother, aided by
French knights, by
whom
the monarch was held unfairly
The cave
in the death-struggle.
village of
Quixote.
which the knight descended, although the name
into
sinos,
Don
from
Osa de Montiel;
it
is
and not seven, as Cervantes

its
most
own name,
that of
near the Ermita de
Saelices,
They are
ruined castle
Florida, to
whom
of
full
of fish
eleven,
;
each
Colgada being the largest and
interesting, because its cool waters
rock-built
are guarded
Rochafrida, in which lived
by the
Roca
Montesinos was married.

Al
Y
These
says.
La
down
about one league from the
lies
and one of the lagunas, of which by the way there are
has
Their
Castillo
Ilaman Rocha,
a la fuente Frida.
lakes, these eyes of the
Guadiana, which, according to
the Don, are fed from the tears of Belerma, with her seven
VINO MORO.
24
daughters and two maidens weeping for her dead Durandante,

are really formed by the accumulation of waters which flow
down from
The Cueva
the Sierra de Alcaraz.
forty yards wide
and sixty deep, and
storms by hunters and shepherds.
with underwood.
bats and birds,
about
itself is
used as a refuge in
is
The entrance
is
blocked up
As in Don Quixote's time, it is the haunt of

who have deposited a bed of guano nearly a
The cave probably was part
of an ancient mine,
as a labyrinth of shafts have been traced,
and heaps of metallic
foot thick.
rubbish, escoriales, found.
After leaving Manzanares, the

the
women more
ugly,
stocking
made
is
get browner and poorer,
and the country and cloak more rusty
Hemp
and threadbare.
men
is
like that of
a luxury for shoes, and the rare
Yalencia without
The cloaked
of a student's purse, open and containing nothing.
peasants grouped around their
mud
of silence and poverty, yet the soil
Hence
cabins seem to be statues

is fertile
to Yaldepenas, celebrated for its wines.
produce of the Burgundy

is
kept in huge
into pig-skins,
When
keep
pure
well,
such as
it is rich, fruity, full
when removed
Don Quixote
to distant places,
and improve
Don
to be tapped
that
is,
and
it
is
the
is
The
put
is
The
bodied, high colored, and will
The
Carlos,
worth on the spot about i, the pipe

expensive,
it
attacked.
best
Bodegas are
Juan Puente, and the
Marquis of Santa Cruz, who has a mansion here.
however,
and
generally adulterated.
is
for ten years.
those which belonged to
stones,
The red
vine, transplanted into Spain.
tinejas or jars
cueros,
when taken
wine,
and wine.
in corn
blood of the grape issues from this valley of
liquor
an emblem
feet,
apt,
The wine
the land carriage
when conveyed
is
is,
in skins,
and watered by the muleteers, whence vino moro
wine which has never been thus baptized
is
proverbi-
248
ally popular.
Valdepeiias sometimes goes wrong during the
sea voyage
the best plan
celebrity than its garters,
mottoes
"
up double quarter sherry
Santa Cruz
to the next town,
passengers
to send
must be conveyed to Cadiz or Santander.
casks, which then
Now
is
de
Mudela has no other
which the women
offer for sale to the
some are gaily embroidered and enlivened with
Honi
soit qui
mal y pense."
This whole region, naturally dreary and dull by nature

inspired
by the genius of Cervantes.
Quixote liberated the galley
is
Near Torre Nueva Don

In the immediate pre-
slaves.
sence of the Sierra to the right was the scene of the Knight's
penance, and before reaching the gorge of Despenaperros, to

the left
is
the Venta de Cardenas, where
and Dorethea, and

into
if
we
think of Cardenio
I mistake not are reminded of the cage
which the redoubtable knight of the woeful countenance
was thrust by
his
companions, and carried home in a vision of
enchantment at the end of
How
wonderful
second adventure.
his
the magic power of mind, and
is
tive the creations of a fertile imagination.
and the
tes to the genius of his country
even to
this day, royal
countenances
how
instruc-
So true was Cervan-
spirit of
the age, that
and true hidalgos of sorrowful and proud
may be found
in
La Mancha,
with plenty of trusty
and patient Sanchos ready to follow the beck and the nod of
the haughty poor and raggedly-cloaked Castillaiio,
only of his chivalry
and honor, and exults
Que quando
who
boasts
in the sentiment, that
se dicen Espafia, dicen todo.
That when you say Spain, you have said everything.
La Mancha and
its
glorious
Don
Quixote of the lantern-
jaws, will live for ever in the fields of honor.
ing influence of the
name of
Cervantes, that
Such
it
is
the last-
seems to be
POWER OF GENIUS.
engraven on every rock
249
in that sterile sierra,
and so great the
vivid force of his talent that the pregnant spirit of his invention has caused
"the wilderness to blossom as the rose," and the
mountain of that naked land to be adorned with the flowers of

his intellect
and beauty.
All honor, therefore, be unto Cer-
vantes, the author of the best
a health to the departed
The province
of 250,000.
it
is
of
La
feet
It
is
Mancka, which we are now leaving,
chiefly table-land, elevated at
above the
very undulating
in the dips,
Denuded
blasts,
is
and
of trees,
a mean height
Although apparently a
sea-level.
creates a partial verdure
want.
Chivalry in the person of the
about 1500 square miles, with a scanty population
contains
2000
spirit of
magnanimous and generous Don.
illustrious,
of
romance ever written, and here
a streamlet
occasionally,
fertility,
but water
plain,
the great
is
exposed to the cutting wintry
it is
and scorched by the calcining summer
tawny and arid
the earth, while the dust impregnated with saltpetre, and the
fierce glare of the
sun blind the eye, wearied with prospects of
uniform misery and a total want of anything of interest, either in
man
or his works, or the nature with which he
traveler
is
of
surrounded the
;
sickened with the wide expanse of monotonous steppes.
The towns
ticle
is
are few, poverty stricken, and without a par-
comfort
or
abodes of under-fed,
water, fuel
is
interest
the
mud-built
ill-clothed laborers
dung
so scarce that dry
villages,
besides the
is
the
want of
substituted.
These
hamlets, wretched enough before, were brutally sacked by the
Duponts and
Soults,
produce much corn,
and never have recovered.
saffron,
and
in
some places
mules are celebrated.
Manchego
working when there
any one to hire
is
developed than his reason.
is
plains
rich wines: the
honest, patient,
;
The
and hard-
his affections are
more
Temperate, brave, and moral, he

11*
250
is
when kindly used and honestly
attached and confiding
with
when he
reserved and stern
He
justice.
is
dealt
supects ill-treatment and in-
far do with a montera on
plainly clad in patio
his
head, a most inconvenient cap, which neither defends the head
from the sun, the rain or cold
man and his
yet, in spite of all these
untoward
is
the province of the
song and dance, the Seguidilla Manchega.
Honest, homely
circumstances in
Sancho Panza
is
a real
country, this
Manchegan
Juan Espahol, the simple
gaffer goosy, the
Dos Jaanes
hacen
La
con
un Pedro,
He
peasant.
un asnon
Carolina, the chief place of the
the true
is
John Bull of Spain.
cntero.
new town
in the Sierra
barrier of this district, affording a striking change in the climate
and vegetation before the

teresting
Carolina.
The
trees, are
The wild
is
entered,
is
perfectly unin-
and un-Spanish, although much admired by the native
because so European and
with
frontier
hills
civilized.
fair skins of
the people, and the roads planted
more German than Spanish

were formerly
without roads or
villages.
population 2800.
left to
the robber and the wolf,
Spain,
after colonizing
the
new
world and expelling her rich Jews and industrious Moors, was
compelled to repeople the Despoblados with foreign
In 1767,
Don Pablo
Olavides, a Peruvian
by
birth,
settlers.
planned the
immigration of Germans and Swiss to what they were told was
a " mountain paradise," by a bribe of pecuniary assistance and

promise of immunities
all
these pledges were broken, and most
of the poor foreigners died broken-hearted of the maladie
du
pays, execrating Spain, and remembering their sweet Argos.
Olavides himself, this modern

infused
life
Cadmus
or Deucalion,
who had
into the silent mountains, fell in his turn a victim to
bigotry and ingratitude.
One
stipulation
admission of monkish drones into these
new
had been the nonhives
a capuchin
NATURAL THERMOPYLAE.
named Romualcl, thereupon denounced him
251
to the Inquisition
he was arrested in 1716, his property confiscated, and he himself confined
in a convent in
penance as the monks should

shaking Spanish dust
La Mancha,
Las
to
cent narrow gorge Despeiia-perros

" the infidel houndes."
This
Mancha, as Pancorbo
dalucia
and the
is
is
Correderas, and the magnifi-
" throw over dogs,"
for
meaning
the natural gateway to dreary
Welcome now gay AnThose who advance north
to Castile.
tropical vegetation.
exchange an Eden
escaped into France,
off his feet for ever.
Soon the road ascends
La
He
inflict.
subject to such a
who
a desert, while those
turn their
backs on the capital, at every step advance into a more genial

climate and a kindlier
Seville
this
Junta only
Bolan pass
after the rout of
In the war of independence the
soil.
talked of fortifying this natural Thermopylae,
nothing was ever done except on paper
Ocaha the runaways dared not even stand
and
be-
hind the rocks, where 100 old Greeks would have checked the
advance and saved Andalucia.
January 20, 1810, the French,
under Dessolles, forced the pass in spite of the heroes of Bailen
and
their ten thousand
own home:" and

is
this
men, who dispersed " every
on the plains of Tolosa
a natural fortress, and well did the
man
to his
yet the country
Duke know
value.
its
It
might have been made the Torres Vedras of Andalucia.
His
which
failed
plan, w^hen he contemplated defending Andalucia,
from the Junta's suspicions regarding Cadiz, was to make Carolina his
head quarters.
" I think," said he, " while
the French will not venture to pass the Sierra."
he was not there, Gazan,
in
I am
there,
Now, when
two days, was master of
fifty
miles
of almost impregnable passes.
On the
town
morning of the second day we entered the wretched
of Bailen.
This had nothing to interest
us,
but
an' old
252
ruined castle with a machicolated tower and a solitary palm

tree
as
which seemed to have strayed away from Africa, standing
it
were the habinger of the land of promise and of a more
Here we
genial climate.
cloth,
behind the
left
Pano pardo,
brown
and the alpargata, or the hempen sandal of the poverty-
striken
The memorable
Manchegos.
place between the post-houses
When
La Casa
took
battle of Bailen
del
Rey and
Bailen.
Cuesta had, by being beaten at Rioseco, opened Mad-
Murat considered the conquest
rid to the French,
May
sent from Toledo,
24, 1808, with 10,000
men, and boasted
that on the 21st of June he should be at Cadiz
mismanaged the whole campaign
but Dupont
he arrived, without obsta-
and then neither pushed on to Cadiz, nor
at Andujar,
back on Madrid while the mountains were open.

Castafios
were
his forces
men under Yedel
next increased by 12,950 more
of Andalucia
Dupont accordingly was
to be merely a promenade militaire.
cles,
the
fell
Meanwhile
was enabled to move from Algeciras, by the help
of a
loan advanced by the merchants of Gibraltar, and marched
towards Andujar with 25,000

generals,
division
was
little
loons.
his
army, both in
more than nominally Spanish.
men and
The
was Swiss, and commanded by Reding, a Swiss
second was commanded by

third
men
De
Coupigny, a Frenchman
first
;
the
the
by Jones, an Irishman, and the best troops were Wal-
The fourth
who now
claim
all
division,
which really consisted of Spaniards,
the glory, never fired a shot, while Castafios,
their chief, only "arrived after the battle
Dupont had
Castafios,
so
mismanceuvred and scattered
by marching Reding to the
and Yedel.
was gained
The
right,
previously
his forces,
that
got between him
positions were singular, each being placed in
these hilly defiles between two
fires
Dupont between
and Reding, Reding between Dupont and Vedel.
Castafios
A RONCESVALLES.
253
July 18, Dupont quitted Andujar in the night, and was met
by Reding and Coupigny, drawn up
at daybreak of the 19th
a strong
The
position.
hill
was of short duration,
battle
in
for
the French had become demoralized by indulgence in pillage
more than 1,500 men were
"impedimenta," or wagons of plunder, and some high

says Foy,
(iv.
were ready to
impossible
officers,
100,) "anxious to secure their butin infame,
dishonor
listen to
favor of Reding, as
in
actually employed in guarding the
rendered
all
manoeuvring
scientific
was a Roncesvalles.
in short it
The report of the
it
the uneven country was also
;"
firing
during the contest brought up
La
Pefia with the fourth Spanish brigade, and Yedel with his division
thus Reding was attacked in front and rear by
and Yedel, while Dupont was exposed
Reding and La Pena
in the
same manner to
but the Spaniards arrived
Videl had halted some hours

into soup a flock of goats
to-
first,
w ere
which they had caught
thus nearly
All par-
anxious to come to terms, particularly the chiefs,
Dupont and
all
for
permit his troops to convert
20,000 Frenchmen were sold for a mess of pottage.

ties
Dupont
Castaiios
indeed the
latter,
on
his arrival, after
the fighting was over, would have granted a convention of
Cintra,
had he not been prevented by
sioner of the Seville junta.
Frenchmen
laid
down
Tilli,
a sort of commis-
Eventually, on the 23rd,
their arms.
The panic spread
H,635
and
far
wide; whole detachments of French along the road to Madrid

volunteered their
own
submission.
from Madrid instantly, having

the invaders ran
own
first
Joseph Buonaparte
pillaged everything
away from the coming shadows
fears, for Castaiios, so far
at his victory, than even the
actually
marched back to
French at
but
of only their
from advancing on the
amazed
fled
foe,
more
their defeat,
Seville to dedicate flags to St. Ferdi
254
nand
nor did he reach Madrid until August 23, when be pro-
ceeded to kneel before the Atocha image of the Virgin, and
thank her for her interference (Schep.
Buonaparte was
silently
i.
Meanwhile
458).
preparing his great revenge unmolested
by the Spaniards, who quietly reposed under
their laurels, not
taking the smallest steps even to dislodge the French runaways
from the
line of the
one blow
Ebro
they thought the war concluded by
and even the sober English caught the
infection,
and
imagined Bailen to be a tragedy to be repeated whenever the
French appeared,
until further notice.
Castafios, this conqueror
movements
The rewards given
by deputy, were as slow as
to
his military
he was not made Duque de Bailen until nearly a
quarter of a century afterwards, and then simply and solely
because Christina was anxious to create a liberal party for her
own
To
ends.
be
it
said that he
all his
also, to his
in the storm,
lay
as
down
allies.
He,
Retaliation and poetical justice
than good
now reaped
treated," says Southey,

soldiers
from mean
honor, opposed the Punic manner in which the con-
satisfied rather
sowed
free
countrymen was best liked by their
vention of Bailen was broken.
were
was
and cheerfully served under English commanders,
jealousies,
and of
his praise
laid
"On
"They were
"as criminals rather than
down
their arms, but could not
leur reclamait avec
injures les vases sacrees des eglises."

in cold blood
The French, who had
in the whirlwind.
(ch. viii.,)
men who had
their crimes."
faith.
Many were
menaces
et
massacred
on the road, others were starved in the Cadiz
hulks, the rest were exposed on the desolate island of Cabrera,
without food or clothing, to feed on each other like howling wild

beasts, in spite of the indignant remonstrances of English officers,
who
are
now charged by
the French
with the guilt of the very
crimes which they did everything in their power to prevent.
255
TARTAR CHARGE OF CAVALRY.
Buonaparte concealed Bailen and the truth from

" Les Frangais," says Foy,
When
sance."
his slaves
"n'en eurent me'me pas connais-
the retreat from Madrid could no longer be
kept back, he only hinted in the " Moniteur," September
6,
that the heat of the weather and the superiority of Ebro water
were the causes
just as at Trafalgar he ascribed the accidental
And
disaster to the elements.
a disaster this accident really
proved to Spaniards, for they now took the exception for the
rule,
and imagined that
and led by incapable
raw
their
officers,
levies,
wanting in everything,
could beat the highly organized
veterans of France led by good commanders
urged them to keep to their
hills,
in vain the
Duke
and wage a Fabian defensive
warfare, which history, the nature of the broken country,
and
the admirable guerrilla qualities of the Spanish people pointed

out.
Bailen always interfered
over again, planning
how
they were always fighting
to catch -all the
French at once
in
it
one
This idea led them to quit the mountains and descend
trap.
into the fatal plains, there to extend their lines, in order to sur-
round the enemy, when these Tartars, by one charge of cavalry,

generally put
them
Meanwhile the
to rout.
effect of
could not be quite
Bailen was electrical
even in France.
stifled,
from her moral subjection

nations
ship,
for the truth
Europe aroused
Spain retook her place among
and England, thinking her now worthy of her
rushed to her
Continuing on to
final deliverance.
Seville, the
road soon descends the
a broken country, over which the Rumblar

tains in this
neighborhood abound
fertile tracts of
presence of
friend-
corn and
olives,
in
game.
boils.
hills
over
The moun-
Passing on through
you are soon reminded of the
a more generous and pleasing aspect in nature.
Before reaching Andujar,
how
different
is
the appearance of
256
smiling Andalousia,
serted waste of
tants.
when contrasted with
La Mancha, and
How
superior
is
now meet
How much
and buttoned
and even up to the
the eye, extend
vicinity of Seville.
the style of the houses, having their outsides
neatly whitewashed,
blinds.
poverty stricken inhabi-
its
succession of olive groves
their lengths for miles,
the dreary and de-
and windows concealed by
nicely painted
Here the
better clad are the people.
hat, rich red sashes, binding the waist,
tidy
and the
embroidered garter, are jauntily worn by the graceful majos.
At
Carpio the costumes of the
wear green serge

of mantillas.
sayas,
women
change, and the majos
and handkerchiefs and shawls, instead
Cities of considerable
and rich harvests of ripe
fruit
now
wealth
and golden
fill
the plains,
grain, rejoice the
The whole
mind, as they gladden the labor of the husbandman.
land wears the tokens of prosperity, and forebodes the presence

of a
happy and contented peasantry.
According to the custom of travel
in the
South of Spain, we
rested at the inn during the hottest portion of the day, and
whilst
some of the passengers were
or sleeping,
we had
leisure
features of this place.
eating,
and others smoking,
enough to examine the principal
Here
are
made
the porous, cooling clay
drinking vessels, alcarrazos, arabice, which,
and arranged
in stands, or tallas, are seized
Spaniards on entering every venta.

dujar, there
At
dova.
is
filled
upon by
a dilapidated old bridge, over the Guadalquiver.
midnight, under the light of a
full
moon, we entered Cor-
Passing through at that hour of the night,
Guadalquiver
is
it
was of
by which the
crossed at Alcolea, or to visit the interior of
the Mezquita, the celebrated mosque.

olives
thirsty
Besides a mosque in An-
course impossible for us to see the noble bridge,
its
with water,
and palm
trees,
Cordova, therefore, with
backed by the
convent-crowned
TOWN
sierra,
TO BE BORN IN.
having a truly Oriental aspect,
by reading Ford's excellent
distance,
257
may be
better seen at a
description, in his "
Gath-
erings."
CORDOVA.
Cordova
prefix,
retains
and tuba
its
ancient name.
said to
is
mean
Cor
Pompey, and was
Caesar: 23,000 inhabitants
common
Iberian
important, liar la tuba.
"gem
duba, under the Carthaginians, was the

It sided with
is
Cor-
of the South."
therefore half destroyed
His
were put to death in terrorem.
lieutenant, Marcellus, (Hirt. B.
A. 57,)
rebuilt the city,
which
was repeopled by the pauper patricians of Rome; hence,

epithet, "Patricia;"
poor and servile
and pride of birth
city.
" stock," like the
ceti
La
cejpa
the aristocratic
is
As
of Cortona in Italy.
its
the boast of this
is still
de Cordova,
by
the Cordovese
barbs w ere of the best blood, so the nobles boasted to be of the

T
bluest.
La
sangre su
contradistinction to
In plebeian veins;
is
the azure of this elite of the earth, in
common
while
red blood, the puddle which flows
the blood of
Protestants, political enemies, and Jews,
heretics,
is
Lutherans,
held by Spanish
sangrados and heralds, to be black, pitchy, and therefore com(see 'Gatherings').
bustible
The Great Captain, who was
born near Cordova, used to say that " other towns might be
better to live
in,
but none were better to be born
The genius and imagination

Rome.
its
Seneca (De Suas. 6 sub.
of the " pingue

istic
of
in."
authors, astonished ancient
fin.),
quoting Cicero, speaks
quiddam atque peregrinum."
as the character-
of the style of Sextilius Ena, one of the poets of
Cordoba the birth-place of

f
himself, the unique
facunda
Lucan, the two
258
Senccas, and of other Spaniards who, writing even Latin, sus-
tained the decline of
Roman
poetry and literature.
Cordova, under the Goths, was termed " holy and learned."
counselor
the
Osius,
Athanasius,
who
of Constantine,
called
and the friend of
him navovoiog, was
its
to
condemn prohibited books
to the
or, in
the words of
Basis, the " nurse of science, the cradle of captains."
duced Avenzoar,
or, to
write more correctly,
Zohr, and Averroes, whose proper
Roshd
he
it
is
"il
civilization of
gran commento
feo."
It pro-
Abdel Malek Ibn
Abu
was who introduced Aristotle
words of Dante,
and
name
first
Under the Moors,
fire.
Cordova became the Athens of the West,
bishop from 294
and was the
to 357: he presided at the Council of Nice,
St.
Abdallah Ibn
to Europe, and, in
The
wealth, luxury,
Cordova, under the Beni-Ummeyah dynasty,
almost seems an Aladdin tale; yet Gayangos has demonstrated

historical accuracy.
its
true Barbarians,
All was swept away by the Berbers,
who burnt
palace and library.
Spanish Cordova for some time produced sons worthy of

ancient renown.
its
Juan de Mena, the Chaucer, the morning star
of Spanish poetry,
was born here
1412; as were Ambrosio
in
Morales, the Hearne, the Leland of the Peninsula, in 1513; and
Tomas Sanchez,
nionio,
the Jesuit and author of the treatise
De Matri-
which none but a celibate monk could have written; the
best edition
is
that of Antwerp, 3 vols,
folio,
1601.
Here, in
1538, was born Pablo de Caspedes, the learned painter and poet;
and
in 1561,
Luis de Gongora, the Euphuist; and near here,
at Montilla,
was born Gonzalo de Cordova, the great (and
truly great)
Captain of Spain.
de
Mena
Well, therefore, might Juan
follow Rasis in addressing his birth-place as
" the
flower of knowledge and knighthood."
Cordova was always celebrated
for
its
silversmiths,
who
TRUTH SRANGER THAN FICTION.
came
work
is
originally from
in that
chased
Damascus, and continue to
and earrings
The joyas
tal
.n
Arabice
antique emerald-studded
bril-
by the Moors
at once,
by Mugueith
first
appendage of the Kalifate at Damascus, but
it
el
became an
in 756, declared
and rose to be the
to be independent,
jewelry
the Goths until 5T2, but Gothic
Rumi, the Mogued of Spanish writers; at
itself
jauhar,
of the peasantry deserve notice, and every
now and then some curious

may be picked u]
Roman Cordo
resisted
Cordova was
day to
this
Juan Ruiz, El Vandolino,
filigree style.
the Cellini of Cordova.
liant
259
capital of the
Moorish empire of Spain, under Abderahman (Abdu-r-rahman,
He
the servant of the compassionate).
remaining heir of his dynasty, the
was the head and
Ummeyah, which had been
expelled from the East by the Abasside usurpers.

of romance ever surpassed the truth of his eventful
nim Cordova became the
rival of
was the centre of power and

at a time
when weakness,
over the rest of Europe.
last
No
fiction
Under
life.
Baghdad and Damascus, and
civilization in the
West, and
this
ignorance, and barbarism shrouded

It contained, in the tenth century,
nearly a million of inhabitants, 300 mosques, 900 baths, and
600
It withered under the Spaniard
inns.
and
is
now
a dirty,
benighted, ill-provided, decaying place, with a population about
55,000.
Cordova
a poor
is
This Athens under the
Moor
is
now
Bceotian place, the residence of local authorities, with
liceo, theatre,
museo and
amply
soon seen.
a casa de espositos, plaza de toros, and a national
library of no particular consequence: a
suffice for
everything.
The
city
Roman.
day
will
arms are " a bridge
placed on water," allusive to that over the river

tions are
the founda-
260
The Alcazar
rises
on the
left,
and was
built
on the
the
site of
Balatt Ludheric, the castle of Roderick, the last of the Goths,
whose
was Duke
father, Theofred,
of
Cordova
formerly
was
it
the residence of the Inquisition, and then, as at Seville, of
The lower
miserable invalid soldiers.
by Juan de Mingares
into stables
lions
portions were converted
in 1584, for the royal stal-
near Cordova and Alcolea were the principal breeding-
grounds for Andalucian barbs, until the establishment was
broken up by the French, who carried
off
the best mares and
Here, under the Moors, was the Alar as (und Huras),
stallions.
the mounted guard of the king, and they were either foreigners
or Christians,
Mamelukes
The cathedral
or Sclavonians.
La
or the mosque,
Mezquitta as
it is still
called,
(mesgad from masegad, Arabice to worship, prostrate), stands
The
isolated.
round
exterior
castellated
is
it
Examine the
Seville.
is
the type of
Moorish
Perdon, of which the type
is
The
in
cistern
dispel
that which was
spandrils
the
of
afc
different
was erected
truly Oriental (1 Chr. xxviii. 6).
945-6,
once sacred refievog and

of
cloaked,
walk
Enter the Court of Oranges at the Puerta del
entrances.
House
observe the square buttress towers, with fire-shaped
it;
or bearded parapets;
this
and forbidding
God,
by Abdu-r-rahman.
" Grove,"
importunate
beggars,
this
In
"court of the
although
bearded,
Homeric, and patriarchal, worry the stranger and
the illusion.
Ascend the
belfry
tower,
which,
the Giralda, was shattered by a hurricane in 1593;
it
like
was
recased and repaired the same year by Fernan Ruiz, a native

of this city.
93*7; it
is
The courtyard was

430
mosque are now
feet
by 210.
built
by Said Ben Ayub
The nineteen entrances
closed, save that of the centre.
military columns found in the middle of the
in
into the
Observe the
mosque during the

261
QUINCUNX OF PILLARS.
repairs of 1532: the inscriptions, re-engraved in 1132, record
the distance, 114 miles, to Cadiz, from the Temple of Janus, on
The
the site of which the mosque was built.

cathedral
quincunx of
materials
basilicum, with
like
is
It
pillars.
was
a temple of
of
chiefly
Janus,
interior of the
a labyrinth, a forest or
constructed out of the
consecrated
Christian
to
Out
worship during the period of the Gothic domination.
columnsnow reduced
of the 1200
supported
in
its
low
to about 854
which once
115 came from Nismes and Narbonne,
roof,
France; sixty from Seville and Tarragona, in Spain; while
140 were presented by Leo, Emperor of Constantinople
the
remainder were detached from the temples at Carthage and

other cities of Africa; the columns are in no
some are of
marbles
shafts of
off or
jasper, porphyry, verd-antique,
neither are their diameters
way uniform
and other choice
equal throughout,
some wmich were too long, having been
six feet
while in those too short, the deficiency was supplied
thus destroying
harmony and
all
Abdu-r-rahman began the
son
Hixem
in
capital,
uniformity.
present mosque, July
copying that of Damascus; dying June 10, 188,

his
and
five
by means of a huge and disproportionate Corinthian
by
sawed
either
sunk into the floor to a depth of four and even
the
it
was
186,
2,
finished
193-4, and was called Ceca, Zeca, the
house of purification, the old Egyptian Sekos {ar ao; adytum).

l
In sanctity
it
ranked as the third of mosques, equal to the
Alaksa of Jerusalem, and second only to the Caaba of Mecca.

Conde,
i.
226, details
grimage to
Moslem
to
this
its
pil-
Ceca was held to be equivalent in the Spanish
that
of Mecca,
where he could not go
andar de zeca en meat became a proverb

is
magnificence and ceremonials.
hence
for wanderings,
used by Sancho Panza when soured by blanket tossings.
and
262
So much
this
for the
was done
The modern
mosque.
addition
the Coro;
is
1523 by the Bishop Alonso Manrique.
in
city corporation, with a taste
and judgment rare
The
such bodies,
in
protested against this " improvement ;" but Charles Y., unac-
quainted with the locality,
When
upheld the prelate.
he
passed through in 1526, and saw the mischief, he thus reproved

the chapter
might have
was unique
"
You
built
have built here what you, or any one,
anywhere
You
in the world.
complete, and you have begun
The walk round the
but you have destroyed what
else;
have pulled down what was
what you cannot
lonely walls
is
described by Caesar.
similar
(B. C.
ii.
that
to
They
picturesque.
are
and towers, they
Moorish, and built of tapia with their gates
must have been nearly
finish."
circumvallation
as
Observe the beautiful
19).
group of palms overtopping the wall from a convent garden

near the Puerta de Plasecia.
The
first
ever planted in Cor-
dova was by the royal hand of Abdu-r-rahman, who desired

to have a memorial of his
Damascus
much
loved and always regretted
his plaintive sonnet is still extant.
The Moors and Spaniards have combined

the
Roman
to destroy
all
The aqueduct was taken
antiquities of Cordova.
down, to build the convent of San Jeronimo.
In
1730 an
amphitheatre was discovered during some accidental diggings

near San Pablo, and reinterred.
Ecija, Astigi,
and remained
the
where we arrived on the following morning,
until four o'clock in the afternoon, in the time of
Romans was a town
equal to Cordova;
it
Genii, the great triubutary of the Guadalquivir.

well-built,
town.
or
La
and
From
rich in corn
and
the extreme heat,
Sartenilla, of
oil, it
it
is
is
rises
on the
Although
a very uninteresting
called
Andalucia; accordingly
it
the
frying-pan,
bears for arms
"grey mare the better horse."
Una
the sun, with this modest motto,
Ciudad
del
tions of
an Heliopolis.
sola sera llamada la
Sol ; thus frying-pans assume the
who
St. Paul,
263
It also boasts to
titles
and decora-
have been
One
of the earliest bishops of Ecija
was
good husSt. Crispin,
but that was before neighboring Cordova was so famous for
Morocco
by
here converted his hostess, Santa Xantippa, wife
of one Prohus (these shrew grey mares always have
bands).
visited
It
leather.
its
has a fine alemeda outside the town,
with statues and fountains representing the seasons.
Leaving
post-houses of
La
La
Portuguesa and
Spanish queens, the only abodes of

of neglected
bridge,
by the miserable
dull place, the road running
this
Luisiana, called after
man
in this
country, crosses Moncloa, with
which was formerly the
called los ninos de
Ecija;
a-1
lair
though now
of a
its
rich tract
palms and a
gang
of robbers,
extinct, these
"Boys"
are immortal in the fears and tales of Spanish muleteers.
tinuing our
way
Con-
across the aromatic, uninhabited, and unculti-
vated wastes into the campagna beyond, we ascended to the

top of a
hill in
the vicinity of Carmena, whence the view over
the vast plains below was magnificent; the
^jrranada chains were to be seen:

Stirling Castle,
it
was the Grampians from
on a tropical and gigantic
scale.
Carmona, the Moorish Karmunah, with

castle,
and
position,
was very
ern extremity of the ridge,
We
is
picturesque, as
commanding the
which
is
it
Oriental walls,
rose on the east-
plain both ways.

its three,
days'
held on the 25th, 26th, and 2Tth of April.
a singular scene of gipsies, legs chalanes, and picturesque
blackguards.
Here the majos and majas
The company
returns to Seville at sunset,
is
its
have now reached Mairena, celebrated for
horse-fair,
It
Ronda and even
shine in all their glory.
when
all
the world
seated near the Caiios de Carmona, to behold them.
The
264
correct thing for the majo fino used to be to appear every day
on a
different horse,
and
in
Such a majo
a different costume.
rode through a gauntlet of smiles, waving fans and handkerchiefs
always, on these occasions, wore the
with
may
Caramb
thus his face was whitened, salio
lucido.
,
The Maja
or riband fringed
and fastened to the Mofio, or knot of her
silver,
hair.
She ought,
also, to
her neck.
The Majo always had two embroidered handker-
chiefs
have the portrait of her Querido around
her workwith the corners
emerging from one of
his
jacket-pockets.
Alcald de Guadaira, signifying the castle of the river Aira*,

celebrated for
likewise
was the
springs,
called, de los
its
last place
on the road to
bread
is
the staff of
samples abound by the way-side.
good bread, which
is
hung up
It
Every
this staple, while roscas,
like garlands,
is
it
its
It
is
also
has long been

existence,
strange that this
and
commo-
as plenty as blackberries in Spain,
should be so rare in America.
dance of
Seville.
Panadoros, "of the bakers," for
the oven of Seville
dity of
and numerous water
bread,
fine
and hogazas,
village enjoys
an abun-
a circular formed rusk, are

loaves, are placed
on tables
" Panis hie longe pulcherrimus

it is, inf.
u
deed, as Spaniards say, Pan de Dios the angels' bread of
outside the houses.
Esdras."
lightness.
their
Spanish bread was esteemed by the

(Plin.
'N. H./
xviii.
All classes here gain
1.)
still
they exceed 200 in number
and children are busy picking out earthy

grains,
is
for its
bread by making, and the water-mills, and mule-mills, or
atahonas, are never
on a
Romans
particles
women
from the
which get mixed, from the common mode of threshing
floor in the
open
air
the
era, or
Roman
area.
The corn
very carefully ground, and the flour passed through several
hoppers, in order to secure
its fineness.
Visit a large bake-
WAY
OF MAKING BREAD.
house, and observe the care with which the

It
is
worked and re-worked,
as
265
dough
is
kneaded.
done by our biscuit-makers,
is
hence the close-grained caky consistency of the crumb.
bread
is
Alcala
is
proverbial for salubrity, and
a summer residence
it
which,
The
and the
breezes,
it
air is
said, there are
is
castle
exists.
it is
rarified
resorted to as
The
freshened by the pure
by the many
ovens, of
fifty.
Moorish specimens, and was
finest
The Moorish
the land-key of Seville.
and no longer
more than
one of the
is
much
is
always escapes the pestilence, which
has so often desolated Seville
Ronda
The
taken into Seville every morning.
city lay
under the
castle,
below makes a pretty sweep
river
round the rocky base, and the long
lines of walls
run down,
fol-
lowing the slope of the irregular ground.
Leaving Alcala, the noble causeway winds gently round the

In the plain below, amid orange
hill,
hanging over the
and
olive-groves, rise the sun-gilt towers of stately Seville.
Moorish Griralda
reach
La Cruz
is
del
river.
pre-eminently the prominent point.
Campo, placed
temple, but erected in 1842.

Tiere travelers used to kneel
It
is
in
and thank the
pains and perils of Spanish travel.
and
their piety are
much
Next we
an open Moorish-looking
also called
for a safe arrival at their journey's
The
Humilladero
el
and Santiago
"Virgin
end, having escaped the
Now, both
these dangers
decreased.
ANDALTTCIA.
The kingdom or province
and
objects of interest,
Spain.
It
is
of Andalucia, in facility of access
must take precedence over
all
others in
the Tarshish of the Bible, the " uttermost parts

12
266
of the earth," to which
Jonah wished
to
At
flee.
the Gothic
province was overrun by the Vandals, whence
invasion this
both sides of the
were called by the Moors Vandalucia,
straits
or Bdad-al-Andalosh, the territory of the Vandal.
a congenial
soil,
the Oriental overtnrner of the Gothic rule took
the deepest root, and

intelligence
Here, as in
left
the noblest traces of power, taste, and
here he made
his last desperate struggle,
and from
this gradual recovery of Andalucia, the Oriental divisions into
separate principalities are retained, and
Cuatro Reinos,th.e "Four Kingdoms,"
it
is
viz.,
Los
called
still
Seville,
Cordova,
Jaen, and Granada.
Andalucia contains 2,281 square leagues, and
mountain and valley; the grand productive
a land of
is
locality is the basin
of the Guadalquivir, which flows under the range of the Sierra
Morena.
To
the south-east rise the mountains of
Granada, which sweep down to the
sea.
Konda aud
Their summits are
covered with eternal snow, while the sugar-cane ripens at their

bases
the botanical range
is,
therefore, inexhaustible
these
and metal-pregnant.
The
sierras also
are absolutely marble
cities are of
the highest order in Spain, in respect to the fine
arts
of
and objects of general
England
interest, while Gibraltar is
a portion
herself.
The Andalucians, from the remotest

been more celebrated for their
social
periods of history, have
and
intellectual qualities,
than for those of a practical and industrial character.
They
are considered by their countrymen to be the Gascons, the

boasters and braggarts of Spain
of
Livy
(xxxiv.
11)
to
"imMks," unwarlike, and
the
and
certainly,
present,
unmilitary.
It
from the time
they are
is
in
the
most
peace and
its
arts that these gay, good-humored, light-hearted children of a
genial sun shine the most
thus, their
authors revived literature

THE ANDALUCIANS.
267
Rome,
as during the darkest
periods of European barbarism, Cordova
was the Athens of the
when
west,
the Augustan age died at
and at once the seat of
arts
and
Again, when
science.
the sun of Raphael set in Italy, painting here arose in a
form
new
Velazquez, Murillo, and Cano school of Seville,
in the
which beyond doubt takes the lead
in those of the Peninsula.
The Oriental imagination
of the Andalucians colors every-
thing up to their bright sun.
Their exaggeration, ponderacion,
or giving weight to nothings,
is
lity,
end in believing their own
until they
with them
only exceeded by their credu-
hear more frequently those talismanic words
No
which mark national character

forme, the " I don't know,"
after
Nowhere
either in the superlative or diminutive.
is
will the stranger
the
Everything
lies.
"I
can't
no
se sabe,
do
se
puede, con-
"That depends
it ;"
Manana, pasado manana, the " To-morrow, and

to-morrow
see about
Inshallah,
it
the JBoubra, balboukra, of the procrastinat-
Here remain the Bakalum or
ing Oriental.
si
the Pek-eyi or
Dios
^wishing that
Enxo-Allah.
day
muy
Men,
quiere, the " If the
God would
Veremos, "
"Very
Lord
will
well
;"
We will
f and
the
the Gjala, or
what he wants, the Moslem's
effect
In a word, here are to be found the besetting
sins
of the Oriental, his ignorance, indifference, procrastination, tem-
pered by a religious resignation to Providence.
The
are superstitious and great worshippers of the Yirgin.
natives
Seville
was the head-quarters of the dispute on the Immaculate ConThey are remarkable
ception, by which Spain was convulsed.
for a reliance
difficulty call
on supernatural
upon
church, and parish
and
in all circumstances of
their tutelar patrons, with

is
provided.
trusted, little moral benefit has
tendencies.
aid,
Al Andaluz
Yet,
if
which every town,
proverbs are to be
been the result of their religious
cata la
Cruz ;
del
Andaluz guarda
268
tu capa y capuz
that
is,
even
an Andalucian make the sign
if
of the cross, keep a look-out after your cloak and other chattels.
In no province have smugglers and robbers (convertible terms)

been longer the weed of the
soil.
In compensation, however, nowhere in Spain

friendly
and
is el trato,
more agreeable than
social intercourse,
The
pleasure-loving, work-abhorring province.
or
in this
native
is
the
gracioso of the Peninsular, a term given to the cleverest comic
Both the
actor.
gracia, wit and elegance,
This
luza, are proverbial.
salt, it is
true,
and the
it
is
-,
dancer,
and Majo, and who has not heard
of these worthies of Bastica

Torero, Bailarin,
and Majo.
the
indeed
Contrabandist a, Ladron,
Their fame has long scaled the
Pyrenees, while in the Peninsular
all
and tauromachian
almost the national laDguage of the smuggler,
bandit, hull-fighter
suits are the
itself
such persons and pur-
rage and dear delight of the young and daring, of
who
aspire to the "
Andalucia
sporting characters.
Fancy?
or aficion, and to be
the head-quarters of
is
and the cradle of the most eminent
professors,
who
provinces become stars, patterns, models, and
tres,
is
extremely picturesque
it is
and, whatever the merits of
happiest mould, he
female
is
is
tall,
the envy and

provincial
that of Figaro in our thea-
tailors
has lent her hand in the good work
all this,
in the other
The
admiration of their applauding countrymen.

dress
Anda-
cannot be precisely
called Attic, having a tendency to gitanesqne

slang, but
sal
and
milliners,
the male
is
Nature
cast in her
well-grown, strong, and sinewy
the
worthy of her mate, and often presents a form of
matchless symmetry, to which
is
added a peculiar and most
fascinating air and action.
The Majo
The etymology
is
of this
word
is
the dandy of Spain.
the Arabic Majar, brilliancy,
splendor, jauntiness in walk, which are exactly expressed in the
" FINE AS A FIDDLER."
The Majo
costume and bearing of the character.
and
velvets, filigree buttons, tags
sun
his
external appearance
This love of show, boato,

" shouting,"
is
bizarro,
form."
The Majo
is
barb's
is
an out-and-out
and,
"larks" are
also Moorish, since
is
lively
thesis of the
upon him
fanfar
and are applied
especially
fond of practical jokes
if
in the
crudo, or bois-
and
his outbreaks
Spanish by their Arabic names,
in
and sparkling semi-Moro Andalucian
is
the anti-
who
looks
down
amusing and undignified personage.
He
smiles
grave and decorous old Castilian,
as an
this
khala-a, " waggishness."
e.
i.
The Majo,
termed
still
jarano, jaleo,
The
is
muy fanfaron ;
swell,
a secondary meaning, to pretention,
in
puffed out pretension.
terous and raw,
" elegance of
the Arabic bessara,
Spanish to las narices, the inflation of the
in the
nostrils,
gay as
as
is
betato ; his favorite epithet,
hinchar both signify to " distend,"
Arabic and
his dress
and everything with him.
all
batto,
fanfaronade in word and thing
and
glitters in
by some derived from the Arabic
by others from
" distinguished"
tassels
is
269
at his harlequin costume
and
tricks as
dialect, and with reason, as nowhere
^more corrupted
in
is
he does at his peculiar

the Spanish language
words and pronunciation:
in fact,
it
is
scarcely intelligible to a true Toledan.
The
and
fittest
Seville
towns for residence are Granada for the summer,
and Malaga
for the winter, or Gibraltar
(which
is
English, not Spanish), where the creature comforts and good
medical advice abound.
The spring and autumn
periods for a tour in Andulacia
mountain
In
the summers, except in the
districts, are intensely hot,
spite of
half Andalucia
fertile soil
is
are the best
and the winters
rainy.
and beneficent climate, more than
abandoned to a
state of nature.
The
soil is
covered with aromatic underwood, and strewed with remains of
2 TO
Moorish
The
ruins.
have been
land, once a paradise, seems to
Nowhere
cursed by man's ravage and neglect.
will the traveler
be better able to study those two things of Spain, the dehesas
y despoblados, as everywhere here, cultivated lands are turned

to waste,
and
once teeming with
districts
depopulated.
life
SEVILLE.
" Quien no ha
No ha
visto a Sevilla,
visto a maravilla."
" He who has not at Seville been,

Has not, I trow, a wonder seen."
Before proceeding to examine the interior of Seville, we preface a brief epitome of
and Hercules
and date of
tiquity.
When men
past.
its
for a beginning, it
its
foundation
old
Its
name,
is lost
is
go back to Hispan
pretty clear that the history
in the obscurity of
remote an-
Hispal, sounds very Punic
doubtless, therefore, a Phoenician settlement, connecting
with Cordova
the
Romans
whence
is
Italica,
the Greek changed the
into Hispalis, of
Sibilia,
tory, little
by
Of
the fact, that
its
it
was
Gaddir
into Ianola^
which the Moors made
consequently Sevilla.
known beyond
name
it
and
Ishbiliah,
anti-Roman
was soon
his-
eclipsed
a military town, by Gades, a seaport, and by Cor-
dova, the residence of patrician settlers.

Julius Caesar patronised Seville because
the cause of Pompey, having captured

years before Christ.
He
gave
mained a more Punic than

splendid,
it
it
the
Roman
city,
August
it
title
Cordova espoused
Romula ;
and
if
9, forty-five
still
it
re-
by no means the
was, according to Italian writers, walled around.
RATHER ROMANCE THAN REALITY.
It
was the
capital of the
Goths
surrendered to the Moors
211
until the sixth
at once after
and
century,
the defeat
Roderick on the Guaclalete, under whose dynasty
Don
of
remained
it
subject until the final overthrow of the western Kalifate that
had been
rests
the
and
In 1031, when
established at Cordova.
conflicting jealousies
Moors
itself,
separate adventurers,
who had
each province and town,
the ill-jointed fabric of
territory having fallen in the
its
inte-
The Beni Umeyyah family being
into fragments.
divided against
split
rival
it fell
set themselves
hands of
up as kings over
into the hands of St. Ferdinand
one of the best of kings and bravest of
shortly after
soldiers,
he had consolidated the kingdoms of Leon and Castile.
The
Seville,
details of his
and
advance into Andalueia, the capture of
especially the account of the vision of the Virgin,
the breaking of the bridge of boats and the prowess of Diego,
El Machucha, have rather the appearance of a romance than

reality, in
the
poem
of the
Conde de
Restaur ada," where the author

Tasso, and invokes
San
of
Isicloro for his
nand granted
Apollo.
Dia
de
Morocco was driven from
among
houses and lands were divided
Sevilla
modestly likens himself to
dered in Xovember 23, 1248, on the
The Emperor
"La
la Roca,
Seville surren-
San Ckmente.
his throne,
the soldiers, and St. Ferdi-
to the city for arms, himself seated
on a throne,
with San Laureano and San Isidoro for his supporters.

the persons and events
of the
authors and artists of Seville.
up
in the
distich
which
is
siege
form subjects
They have been
tersely
All
for the
summed
inscribed over the Puerto, de la
Came.
" Condedit Alcides
his
renovavit Julius urbem,
Restitiut Christo Fernandus tertius heros."
272
" Hercules
built, Caesar
renewed the City,
The Hero, Ferdinand the Third, restored
This
is
it to
Christ."
thus paraphrased over the Puerta de Xeres.
" Hercules me
edificio
me cerco
De muros y torres altas ;
(Tin Rey godo me perdio,) omitted.
El Rey Santo me gano,
Con Garci Perez de Vargas"
Julio Cesar
" Hercules built
and
lofty towers
me
Julius Caesar surrounded
me
a Gothic King lost
me with
walls
a saint-like king
recovered me, assisted by Garci Perez de Vargas."

Seville,
in
the unnatural
wars after the conqueror's
civil
Alonso
death remained faithful to his son and successor.
He
Subio, the learned, but not wise.

I.,
"
The most learned
was
like the
called
El
ISTodo,
is
and
me."
in
Alonzo gave
Seville
seen carved and painted everywhere.

is
thus represented
No
Do
" It has
glyphic signifies No-m'ha dexa-Do.
Madexa
pedant James
Christendom," and both would
fool in
have made better professors than kings.

the badge, which
el
old Spanish meant a knot, and
is
the hiero-
not
is
It
deserted
the Gothic
Mataxa.
Seville continued to
Don
Pedro,
be the capital of Spain, and especially of
who was more than
removed the Court to
half a Moor, until Charles
Vallaclolid
yet
true to the sun, although not shone upon
of the comuneros, and was rewarded
it
raised Seville to a
faithful
by a motto, a Ab Hercule
The discovery
of the
more than former splendor
became the mart of the golden
during the outbreak
et Csesare nobilitas, a se ipsa fidelitas."
New World
remained
V.
colonies,
it
and the residence of
EARLY HISTORY OF SPAIN.
The French
princely foreign merchants.
273
invasion and the sub-
down from
sequent loss of the transatlantic possessions cast her
her palmy pride of place.
Ocana,
were defeated
The Junta
risked the battle of
Cassandra warnings of the Duke, and
in despite of the
the conquerors then overran Andalucia, and in
a few days the heroic city surrendered (Feb.

even a show of
set
Soult then became
fight.
Joseph at defiance.
Here he ruled
1810), without
2,
autocrat, for he
its
despotically
says Schepeler (hi. 129),
who
details, "
his orders of the day."
was erased from
Moore
at
gives the appalling blood-stained
French plunder at
the
estimates
" Mercy,"
six
Toreno fxx.)
millions
sterling.
As
Sahagun had once before saved the Andalucians,
Duke
now
the
fled
from Seville August 21, 1813, closely followed by Col.
Skerrett.
fight,
Sir
at
Salamanca delivered them again, and Soult
John Downie, whose Spanish legion would not
joined the English,
three times
who would, and charged
he was wounded and taken prisoner; yet threw
back to
his followers his sword, that its
unsullied
it
the bridge
honor might remain
was that of Pizarro, and had been given
in reward of previous valor

of the Alcazar.
to
him
he was afterwards made Alcaide
The English entered
Seville
amid the rap-
turous acclamations of the inhabitants, thus delivered from
French terrorism,
Seville,
Cortes,
in
who
scaffolds,
1823, was
and
made
confiscation.
the
asylum of the bragging
halted here in their flight from Madrid, and
again fled at the
first
approach of Angouleme
but
who
this capital
of the ever unwarlike Andalucians never held out against any
one except Espartero in July, 1843.
That
nine days, and during six only were any

ingly, less
siege lasted about
bombs
fired.
than 100 Sevillians were wounded, of
Accord-
whom
twenty died: of the assailants only twenty-nine were

12*
only
killed.
274
ITS
" Fair
ATTRACTIONS.
proud Seville
is
let
her country boast
Her strength, her wealth, her

Seville, the
site of
marvel of Andalusia,
lies
ancient days."
on the
Guadalquivir, which flows along the arc of
almost circular shape.
Its circumference of
bank
left
of the
and
irregular
its
about
five miles, is
inclosed in Moorish walls of concrete or tapia, which, toward
the Puerta of Cordova, are the most perfect in Spain.
the see of an archbishop, having for suffragans
It
is
Cadiz, Malaga,
Ceuta, the Canary Islands and Teneriffe, and contains twentyeight parishes and ten suburbs, of which Triana, on the opposite
bank,
is
like the Trastevere of
Rome, and the abode
of gypsies
and smugglers.
Possessing a Royal Alcazar, a Plaza de Toros a (Bull pit),
two
theatres,
a public library and museum, a university and
beautiful walks,
noble,
it
glories in the titular epithets
to which Ferdinand VII. added muy
of
cheroica,
muy
leal
y
and Senor
Lopez, in 1843, "invicto" (unsubdued), after the repulse of

Espartero.
The
city is purely
Moorish, as the Moslem, during a posses-
sion of five centuries, entirely rebuilt
ings as materials.
The
the best houses are
still
climate
is
it,
using the
so dry
Roman
and conservative, that
those erected by the Moors, or on their
models, they are the most charming and unique; of the
Sevillians pretend that the walls,
sense,
as
built
by
and that the Torre
Julius
Caesar,
Roman
Although the
remains, there are, consequently, scarcely any.
(Tower of Gold), was
build-
it
is
del
Oro
sheer non-
they are incontestibly Moorish, both in form and
construction.
The Roman
city
was very
small,
and
it
extended

MUSEUM OF MOORISH
from the Puerta de
pillars of
Roman
Came
temple,
275
ANTIQUITIES.
to the Puerta de Triana.
now
Several
deeply imbedded within the
walls of some Moorish houses, and some well-preserved
Roman
swb-grundaria or under-ground tombs for infants, whose bodies
were never burnt on funeral
In one street a subterranean aqueduct was
to light.
dentally discovered, which
though
have been recently brought
piles,
its
existence
is
still
acci-
flows full of fresh water, al-
absolutely
unknown
to the majority of
the citizens, and no steps have been taken to trace or recover

this precious supply.
Seville, is
however, a museum of Moorish antiquities, and
the best place to observe the Arabic ceilings and marqueterie
woodwork, artestonados y ataraccas ; the stucco paneling, AraAlmocarbes, Ajaracas,
bice Tarkish, the lienzos de Almizates,
and the elegant window divided by a marble

Arabic term, meaning an opening which
an
shaft, Ajimes,
lets in
the sunbeam:
beautiful specimens exist in the Alcazar, Calle Pjaritos,
Xo.
15,
Casa Prieto, Ce. Xaranjos, and Casa Montijo, behind the

Parroquia of
A vast number of
Omnium Sanctorum.
Moorish
houses exist, although sadly degraded by adaptations to modern
wants and usages.

in order to
plain,
The
streets are
narrow
a wise provision
keep them shady during the heat; the exteriors are
and windows looking to the
before the time of Charles V.

rejas, or iron gratings,
streets
They are
and protected
in
were hardly known

still
barricaded with
summer by an
estera,
or
matting, thus forming a favorite al fresco boudoir for the fair

sex.
The houses generally have an entrance porch,
(Arabice sahan), which leads to the
cancel,
el
zaugan
or open-worked
iron gate; the interiors are built with an open square court-
yard, patio, on each side of which are corredores, supported by
marble
pillars
a fuenle, or fountain, plays in the middle
this
2T6
court
is
covered over in summer with an awning,
toldo,
velo,
and becomes the drawing-room of the inmates, who, during the

summer, occupy the cool ground
is
and migrate to the warmer
These houses are rich
upper one in winter.

lain tilings,
floor,
which are
still
called azulejos.
Moorish porce
in
This word, like azul
derived from the Arabic, but from a different root.
latter
is
Zulaj,
derived from lazurad, the lapis lazuli
a varnished
Zideich,
tile.
strictly
the Arabic
Spanish zarco, which
Most names
applied to blue eyes.
The
the former from
Lazurad, indeed,
speaking, was borrowed from the Persian;
blue being zaraco, whence the
is
word
only
of colors in the Spanish are
derived from Arabic words, such as Albayalde, Carmesi, Gualdo, Azulturqui,
whom
and decorator, from

his arts
is
The Moor was the chemist
Ruano, Alazan.
the rude Gotho-Spaniard learned
The use
and the words to express them.
The sapphire and blue were
very ancient and Oriental.
always the favorite

substance
is
(Exod. xxiv. 10;
tints
composed of a red
in
it.
Isa. liv. 11).
clay, the surface of
highly glazed in enameled colors.
and no vermin can lodge
of Azulejo,
The material
is
The
which
is
cool, clear,
The Moors formed with
it
most
ingenious harlequinades, combining color and pattern.
More than
select the
half of Seville
cream
is
Moorish
but
we
shall only
first.
THE GIRALDA,
This beautiful tower
which turns round.
is
so called from the vane, que gira,
It should be the first object of attraction
after entering the city.
Of
this beautiful belfry,
Europe, much error has been disseminated.

1196, by
Abu
Jusuf Yacub,
who added
it
It
to the
and unique
was
in
built in
mosque which
ASCENT OF THE TOWER.
his
father,
illustrious
2T7
same name, had
of the
Moors attached such veneration
to this
el
The
Mueddin tower, that
before the capitulation they wished to destroy
vented by the threat of Alonso
erected.
but were pre-
it,
Sabio of sacking the city
if
they did.
Abu
Jusuf Yacub was the great builder of his age; he
caused a bridge of boats to be thrown across the Guadalquivir,
on the 11th of October,
He
1111.
a. d.
built also a portion
of the exterior walls, and erected wharves along the banks of
He
the river.
the
He
Caons de Carmona.
Seville,
Roman
repaired the
which was similar
raised
in design
brated Mezquita at Cordova.

of Morocco, and the smaller
now known
great Mosque
aqueduct,
the
and execution to the
as
of
cele-
This tower, like the kootsabea
and unfinished one of Rabat,
also
the works of the same architect, was, probably, erected for the
double purpose of calling the faithful to prayer, and for as-
The
by which
it
was surmounted, were thrown down during an earthquake,
in
tronomical observations.
original gilt balls
Thus much says the accurate Gayangos, who has
1395.
cleared
away
the slough of errors in which
engulphed, and threatens
those
all
many have been
who copy what they
find
written in bad Spanish and worse foreign guides.
The
orignal Moorish tower
was only 250
additional 100, being the rich filigree belfry,
1568, by Fernando Ruiz, and

description.
(xviii.
it is
10)
It
is
is
feet high;
was added,
in
elegant and attractive beyond
girdled with a motto from the Proverbs
Komen Domini fortissima turris. On grand
lighted up at night, and then seems to
chandelier from the vault of heaven.
The Moorish
ajaracas, or sunk
The ascent
by easy ramps.
is
the
It
is
hang
like
festivals
a brilliant
a square of
fifty feet.
patterns, differ on each side.
The panorama
is
superb, but
278
the
made by a Franciscan monk, one Jose Cordero,
clock,
1164,
here considered the grand marvel;
is
crowned with El Girandillo, a female

Fe, the faith,
for
is
figure in bronze of
is
La
a somewhat strange choice of sex and character
what should never vary or be

and was cast
Italian,
the pinnacle
in 1568,
fickle.
The
figure
The
by Bartolome Morel.
truly
is
figure
fourteen feet high, weighs 2,800 pounds, and yet veers with
It bears the Labaro, or banner of Con-
the slightest breeze.
This belfry
stantine.
is
the
home
of a colony of the twittering,
careering hawk, the Falco tinnunculoides.
who ascended
knight
the
The
first
Giralda after the conquest,
Lorenzo Poro (Lawrence Poore), a Scotchman.

dant, the Marquis
cle
Motilla,
the Calle de la Cuna.
Christian
still
was
His descen-
owns the ancestral house
Scotch herald
will
in
do well to look at
the coat of arms in the Patio.
The Giralda was the great tower from whence the mueddin
summoned
stitutes,
all
is
the faithful to prayers; and here
the
bells, for
are his sub-
they are almost treated as persons, being
duly baptized, before suspended, with a peculiar
oil,
which
consecrated expressly during the holy week, and they are
When
christened after saints.

it
still
is
bells,
called a repique,
is
totally unlike our sweet village
or impressive cathedral peal.
melody
music
which
Spanish campanas are rung,
in their repique,
is
There
is
no attempt at
no chime, no triple-bob majors.
The
devoid alike of ringer science, rural rustic melody, or
the solemn association of sounds, the "nighest bordering on
heaven."
The campanas
are headed with cross
beams of wood,
almost of the same weight as the bells themselves, and are

pulled at until they keep turning round and round, head over
heels,
except
when they
are very large; then the clapper
agitated by a rope, a golpe de badajo.
is
219
COURT OF ORANGES.
The Giralda
under the especial patronage of the two
is
Santas Justina y Rufina, who are much revered at
nowhere
who
In a thunderstorm, 1504, they scared the
else.
unloosed the winds to fight against this church;
standing miracle,
rable
ladies
match
Seville,
devil,
this, their
the one so often carved, and painted
by
and others: and, due proportions considered, these
Murillo
young
is
and
Seville,
must have been at
500
least
feet high,
and a
tole-
The Royal Academy
for the father of all lies.
of
however, published, in 1195, a learned dissertation to
prove the authenticity of this miracle. JSo wonder,
when Espartero bombarded
Seville, that
that the Giralda
was encompassed by
by these
who turned
tutelars,
headed
invisible angels,
These ladies
aside every shot.

in Triana,
which coarse earthenware
made.
is still
1843,
the people believed
were the daughters of a potter
insulted the paso, or graven
in July,
a low suburb, in
In the year 281, they
image of Venus Salambo, and
were put to death.
Below the Giralda
is
the Moorish Patio de
los
Naranjos, the
court of orange trees, with the original fountain, at which the
Moslem once performed
his ablutions.
court of the house of the Lord,"
Only two
this tbîsvoq
sides of "this
or "grove,"
remain.
As
Seville
is
the marvel of Andalusia, la Giralda
is
no
less
the
pride and delight of the Sevillians: and as you view the tapering
iithe of its graceful proportion, lifting its
it,
it
not won-
has been termed the miracle of Moorish
art.
Ascend
will enjoy the
beheld in Spain.
memory
down from
perspec-
will
and then you
the
aerial
sunny land, you
tive against the soft blue sky of this
der that
form in
of
its
Fair Seville
most gorgeous panorama to be

lies
proudly at
its feet,
past glories and splendid history.
reviving
You
look
the belfry upon the green foliage of the Court of
280
Oranges, and the light waters of the golden fountains gleam

tinder the eye like brilliant
diamonds sparkling
Moslem once washed
that court the true and devout
and
feet,
in the sun.
his
In
hands
mueddin above, who
as he listened to the call of the
entoned the hour for prayer, and chanted the appel to the
The gorgeous mass
faithful.
the brillancy of
all
of the Cathedral roof glows with
Azalejo
its
mid-way up the tower,
tiles
while the eye embraces at one glance,
mount the
all
circuit of the ancient walls.
of the Guadalquivir glide in
the turrets that sur-
Afar the
swift waters
onward course to the ocean,
its
where you scarcely distinguish the forms of the tiny boats, that
are freighted with the rich products of
its
native
Other
soil.
Moorish minarets surround the grand central mueddin tower of

"
La
Giralda."
The only
mosque now
vestiges of the original
visible,
are
some Saracenic gates and porches, and the square buttresses of

the outer walls.
Above
the whole rises the majestic tower of
the vast Gothic Cathedral, certainly the finest in Spain,
Europe
in
we
inferior to none,
Below the
not
not even that of Strasburg, whether
consider the massiveness of
effects.
if
spectator,
its
and
construction, or its sublime

in front of the Giralda,
the
rambling structure of the archbishop's palace reminds you of

its
occupation by Soult, during the Peninsular war.
Here Soult
resided,
when the
walls were
precious collection of Spanish pictures
"remove" the Giralda.
It
was on the
adorned with
his
fortunately he could not

plaza, opposite, that the
cloaked Spaniards watched those of their Afrancesado country-
men, who frequented the foreigner's councils and
them
feats,
and
des-
Some French officers one day

were admiring the Giralda, when a majo replied, " y con todo
eso, no se hizo en Paris," and yet it was not made at Paris.
tined
to the knife-stab.
281
THE SHOP OF FIGARO.
On
one side of the square of the Duke, the Chirruguesque
features of the
far
off,
Longa, or Exchange, claim attention, while not
the Alcazar yields an interest, from
Montpensier, the fortunate
The
entire square,
thedrals,
consort
its
the
of
occupation by
sister
of Isabel.
which hangs around the nucleus of the
ca-
embraces every variety of architectural beauty, so
that in their several styles you can easily trace out the rise
and decline of the Saracenic, and Gothic, and Spanish con-
On
quests.
edifices,
all sides
you are struck with the greatness of the
and the singular contrast of
ley groups of the people,

courts,
who
are
their orders, while the mot-
moving above the Plaza,
and over the pavements, into these
attract no less
in the
different buildings,
by the novelty, picturesqueness, and cut of
party-colored costumes.
Even
their
the harlequin dress of Figaro
the Barber of Seville, in the opera
is
easily restored at
one
corner of the quadrangle, (No. 15 San Tomas,) where the identical
shop of this musical character
you may
still
may be
be shaved by a descendant of
sign of the basin, the yelmo de manbrino,
took for his helmet, when he

adventures
after
first
knight-errantry.
this hero,
which
set out
We
seen,
on
and where
under the
Don Quixote
his chivalrous
were tonsored
and
lathered in this shop, merely for the sake of the associations
connected with the memory of Figaro, and everybody
music in his
soul,
should be shaved there also.
who has
Such are some
of the wonderful, of the beautiful landscapes obtained from the

belfry of the
When
most graceful Giralda.
satisfied
descend to the
the Cathedral.
with the loveliness of this superb landskip,
street,
and passing thence enter the
interior of
282
THE CATHEDRAL.
The Cathedral
the largest and finest in Spain
itself is
solemn and grandiose of " Grandeza"

as elegance
is
distinctive quality,
of Leon, strength of Santiago,
The
of Toledo.
is its
and wealth was
that of the successive temples of Astarte,
site is
The
Salambo, and Mahomet.
original mosque,
liar quadrilateral
form, 398 feet east to west,
south,
was erected by
it is built, it
the
on whose pecu-
by 291 north to
Abu Yusuf Jacob- Al-Mansur,
11 63-1 178, and remained uninjured
when
until 1480,
The chapter in their
was
was opened
pulled down, and this cathedral commenced, which

for divine service in 1519.
it
conference
first
determined to " construct a church such and so good that

never should have
its
complete, say, that those
outside a
museum
off into
wide
chapels
It
it is
is
not known.
an oblong square
aisles
It
is
Basilica
;
it is
431
is
work must
inside
and
and recent
form of the
feet long
by
magnificent, the height
while at the cimborio, or transept
feet,
offices
connected with the cathedral
built outside to the south

is
superb.
the pavement in
It
and cost the enormous sum of 155,304
was restored
it
the two lateral are railed
black and white chequered marble

in 1793,
admires
the centre nave
171 feet; the
and chapter are
to devise such a
preserves the
has seven
amazing, being 145
dome,
it
of fine art, in spite of hostile
original mosque, being

feet
who dared
of the architect
church spoliations.
315
when
posterity,
There* was method in such madness.
have been mad."
The name
Let
equal.
it
was
finished
dollars.
It
at one corner.
Within a "dim
religious light," so suitable to the house of
prayer, pervaded the aisles of this noble temple, creating an
283
PRISMATIC BEAUTY.
atmosphere of holier inspiration than that enjoyed outside.
A rich stream of
loftiest oriel in
it fell
aerial rays,
into repose.
chosen
it
flowing like a veil of mist from the
the north transept, flooded the pavement, where
Were
the angels painters, they would have
as a type on their descent in Jacob's
spiritual beings treat of the heavenly

like ladders.
No
less beautiful is
Dream,
for
with no material aids
the effect of those delicately
subdued gushes of color that poured through diaphanous panes
windows of the
of the stained glass in the
while you watch the shadows that
flit
where,
chapels,
across the pillars and
over the shrines, catching at times glimpses of eprismatic

ness, joining in consort
images and the

with the
fleet-
with glistening jewels which crown the
reliques,
the sanctuary
touched, as
is
it
were,
magic pencil of an archangel, and transferred
fancy (at least) from the creation of
man
in
into a revelation
of celestial glory.
We
loved to dwell
among
the hallowed precincts of these
gorgeous chapels, so replete with images of
Each chapel had
associations with saintly devotees.
tinent story of devotion,
saintliness,
its
and
per-
and each shrine was gladdened by
some peculiar hue of beauty, or treasure-picture from the

middle age of
of
art.
The painted windows,
some holy man, or
depicting the miracle
illustrating the Parables of our
were but the types of multiplied refractions of the

gift of creation
light, separated,
first
Lord,
blessed
and missioned on an errand
of benevolence to adorn those shrines in an endless variety of

colors.
Like the Iris-messenger from the
the wealth of the sunset,
its
rainbow
tints
skies, freighted
with
spanned the arches
df the temple, and wreathing their lustrals round the columns

of the tabernacle, fostered promises of joy to the heart,
grace to the soul of their worshipers.
and
284
" *T
is
on such gems of thought where Fancy reigns supreme,
Opinion weaves her fabrics in each golden dream
And
Foster' d with hopes of heaven Imagination loves
To wing
Now
look
its
joys, afar it only lives above."
aloft,
and your eyes wander down avenues of
golden columns, which are joined together and crossed by the

groined roof and tendrils of fretted lacery of sculptured stone-
Sweet tones of melodious music
work.
ing, and, swelling
steal over vaulted ceil-
with fainter echoes as they depart from the
are borne from chapel to shrine in gentle undulations,
coro,
until they die
anti-transept.
away among
Around
the distant and deep recesses of the
the walls the masterpieces of Murillo
and Cano are suspended or
let
into
the walls, thus adding
the charms of painting to the attractions of architecture and

music.
Amid
the
the multitude of these brilliant
effects,
and beyond
grandeur of a scene where the bridal of the sun and
moonlight seem celebrated in the union, contrasted with com-
mingled lights and shades, the pageant of the earth,

less
attractive than the
thoughts of heaven.
is
no
Humble wor-
shipers kneel before the shrines of saints, while peasants tell

their sins at the confessional, the priests officiate at the altars
and chapel of the Sacraments, the music of the loud pealing

organ sounds on high above the chants and anthems of the
choristers, in the
tent,
solemn and grand oratory of the Omnipo-
where costume, and ceremonious
prayers,
painting,
sculpture,
reliques,
priests, canticles, music,
architecture,
worship,
pageant and pomp unite to captivate the heart, fascinate the

eye,
and please the
The Cathedral
itself;
it
is
religious.
of Seville
is
truly a gorgeous spectacle of
probably the superlative in architectural degrees.
GORGEOUS INTERIOR .PAGEANT.
You
285
cannot avoid being touched by the genius of inspiration,
which
fills
inspecting
the mind in such a place.

its
wonders
men who were
its
The heart
swells while
you wonder at the thought of the giant
architects
you wish to
age in
recall the
But
which so grand a prodigy of art and labor was produced.

the restoration of
glories
its
founders,
You
architect of the Giralda.
that
it
is
name
reflect again,
of the
unknown
recurs to you
it
the Temple of the living God, designed by
gratitude for his goodness,
works.
and their period of middle-age
as vain as the search after the
is
and
in
praise of
man
in
His wonderful
In the midst of your meditation you kneel as one of
the worshipers, you become conscious of a want of pardon for
your
sins,
the soul
is filled
with the sentiment of true religious
feeling, and, regardless of form,
ceremony or creed, the prayers
of that hour are Catholic, because spontaneous.
Far more gorgeous was the aspect

15th of August, when the temple was
of the interior on the

filled
with multitudes,
eager to witness the ceremonies which were to be celebrated on

the Feast of the Yirgin, and in honor of Saint Ferdinand.
The
procession
the morning.
moved from
the church about eight o'clock in
The whole church was
brilliant
under the
in-
creased lights of a myriad of tapers, to which were added the

effect of the daylight
and the
filled
through the windows.
All the windows
galleries of the houses adjacent to the cathedral
were
with the faces of their inmates, anxiously observing the
pomp and
circumstance of the passing pageant, as the crowds
of followers
moved round the square
outside the edifice.
Burn-
ing and bright Spanish eyes sparkled with animation, as their
joyous faces shone with gladness and approbation, while the

inhabitants were intensely gazing on the scene
add to the
glory of this occasion, the beautiful blue sky which was overhead,
286
rich colors of the
tlie
numerous gala-costume of the people, the
tramp of the cavalcade, the high sound of martial music and

the gleam of arms borne by the soldiers in their ranks, while
the standards of Spanish colors flaunted in the breeze, and the
huzzas of the crowd mingling with the pealing of the merry

bells,
when the pageant was
in its height, at the
was borne on
the image of Saint Ferdinand
panoply of rich
silk
and
moment
that
under a
high,
and the whole presents a
curtains,
spectacle that can only be found in Spain, and nowhere else so
But with
magnificent and grand as in the city of Seville.

this
ceremony and parade, we
women
and evening,
visited at different times of the
in order to fully estimate the artificial
effects of light
and shade.
The
interior
is
solemn, not
The
sad.
day
changes and
somewhat dark; but
a gorgeous gloom, inspiring a religious sentiment
ing, not chilling

falls
observe any pretty
in the crowd.
The cathedral should be
it is
failed to
all
sun,
chasten-
about two o'clock,
on the Holy Rood, over the Retablo, and produces a
splendid effect.
The cathedral
always thronged, not only by
is
The
the devout, but by idlers, sinners and beggars.
not allowed to walk about or talk together

pertigueros, beadles
sexes are
celadores
and
and vergers, keep guard, and papal excom-
munications are suspended in terrorem; nor are

to enter after oraciones,
when darkness comes
women
on,
allowed
and the pre-
text of "going to church" favors love meetings, etc.
THE ALCAZAR.
al-Kasrthe
house of
the pillar-divided
windows
Before entering the royal Alcazar

Csesar,
ajimezes,
the
delicate
arabesques,
and the carved
soffit
of
its
Moorish
portal, are
worthy
ALCAZAR
regard.
of
Cufic
28
quaint Gothic inscription almost looks like

thus
"
El
muy
y conquistador
poderoso,
Pedro, por la gracia de Dios, rey de
niando facet,
Leon,
hecho en
was
It
runs
it
Don
Its
GENUINE MOORISH.
y estas facadas que fue
estos alcazares
la era mil quatro cientos
rebuilt in the tenth
y de
Castilla
that,
A.
D., 1364.
centuries,
by
Jalubi, a
y dos
and eleventh
Toledan architect, for Prince Abclu-r-rahman Anna'ssir Sidin

Allah (the defender of the religion of God), and occupies the
Roman
the residence of the
site of
It has been
much
altered
Praetor.
by Ferdinand and
Charles V., Frenchified by Philip Y.,
who
and being
on the second
in
morbid seclusion
for
gilding
in 1813,
put up the
of chilly habits,
Phillip
floor.
Y., resided here too
two years amusing himself with
religious
This Alcazar was barbarously
penances, and fishing in the pond.
whitewashed
Isabella erected
Charles Y., was here married to
the pretty chapel up stairs.
fire-places
when most
of the delicate painting
was obliterated as at the Alhambra
in 1832,
On
have
been made.
entering, the columns in the vestibule are
Gothic capitals
grand court
is
doors, ceilings,
glorious
and royal
The
Many
of the
superb, seventy feet
by
fifty-four.
and Azulejos are genuine Moorish
The
hall of the
portraits
mar
the oldest
Ambassadors has
the Moorish character
are both an insult and
the
Junta sat
the next
Media naranja roof; but the Spanish balconies
Bourbon heads
silly
Roman, with
these belong to the original palace.
portion fronts the garden.
and
but some
partial restorations of portions to their primitive brilliancy

since
and
sub-divided the noble
saloons with paltry laths and plaster tabique.
Isabella of Portugal,
Isabella,
Seville
room
it
is
said that
until
the
an
defeat
Don Pedro
the baboon
injury.
Here
of Ocafia.
In
caused his brother,
288
El Maestro de Santiago,
whom
he invited as a guest, to be
murdered.
A truly
Arabian
suite of
rooms fronting the garden, leads
the second story modernized by Charles Y.; walking on
to
the terrace over the garden you arrive at the Chapel of Isabel,
which
its
is
way
rial in
covered with cinco-cento Azulejo, so Peruginesque in

as to be
considered the finest specimen of this mate-
Spain.
Passing along the corridor you are led to the Cuarto del
Principe, or "
chamber of the Prince," a truly alhambra room

In a long saloon down
placed over the vestibule.

kept, or rather were
neglected, in heaps
stairs
were
on the floor, those
antiquities
which chance discovered while a road was making
at Italica,
and which were not reburied from the
Alcalde
Bruna was a man
of taste.
Soult
made
fact that the
the Alcazar
a general receiving house for stolen goods, and when he
from
Seville, after the
fled
Duke's defeat of Marment at Salamanca,
more than 15,000 pictures were
The conquecento gardens

the most curious in Europe.
left
behind in his hurry.
laid out
by Charles, are perhaps
The tank where
Philip Y., fished,
and the vaulted Bafios (baths) where Marie de Padilla, mistress of
sons.
Pedro
el
Cruel, bathed, were probably, originally pri-
The gardens
their levels vary,
walls; the
balmy
are those of a Hesperus "not fabulous,"
and the plots are divided by orange-clad

air is
perfumed by blossoms and golden
fruit.
Quaint patterns of eagles and coats of arms are curiously cut

in the
box and myrtle which mark the
different
compartments
whilst hidden fountains in the walks often surprise the
stranger
as
he passes
from the side of the
unwary
semi-Moorish
azulejo-adorned Kiosk in the under garden to the rustic ter-
race in the north.
PRETTY INTERIOR COURTS.
289
REMARKABLE HOUSES.
There are
still
some remains of Moorish architecture
houses of certain of the Sevillians.
in the
These are usually built
in
a hollow square around an area or court, in the middle of which

a fountain plays, and occasionally the eye
sight of a small
effected
by the
refreshed
The entrance
flower garden.
by a double portal
is
them
into
is
in front, the innermost being guard-
ed by a grating of iron open work, which permits the inhabitant of the house to see what
door,
while
it
is
passing in the street before the
allows the pedestrian to catch a glimpse of
a pretty interior as he saunters along, and

catch a sight of these neat
little
often, perhaps, to
cupboards so orderly kept
within the corners of the court, and of a pretty housemaid, as

she steps on tiptoe to lodge her charge of tiny porcelain upon
From
the shelves of the china receptory.
plan of these dwellings
it
the same as those of the
you may often look
in
is
easy to perceive that they were
Romans and
upon these
his
evening
now rendered
cheerful
and see the members of a
round the centre table busily engaged
reading, conversation, or at work.
be seen reclining on
At
the Moors.
courts,
Ijj the light of the burning taper,
Bevillian family, sitting
the similarity of the
Or, at noon, the host
couch while taking his
siesta,
in
may
under a
wide awning that protects the entire area from the hot sun of
the meridian.
The Casa O'Lea

Seville.
It
is
palace of the
is
one of the most remarkable houses in
a perfect Moorish specimen.
Duke
Here Lord Holland
of Alba,
lived.
is
now, alas
It consisted of
courts with nine fountains, and
The most Moorish

!
going to
more than eleven
more than one hundred

13
ruins.
pillars.
290
Its gardens, forests, trees
and myrtle groves were
truly refresh-
ing and luxurious.
Those who have read of the charming drama of Sancho

Ortez de Poelas,
be pleased with the Mansion of the
will
Taberas, in the " street of the old Inquisition."
shown the garden door by which the Sancho
el
to carry off the beautiful Estrella de Sevilla.
Here
is
still
Bravo intended
when
This house,
tenanted by a Frenchman in 1833, was converted into a dyeing

factory
den a
la
and when
last
heard from he was trimming up the gar-
The palace
mode de Paris.
of Pilate, so called from its
imitation of the house of Pilate at Jerusalem,
by a great nobleman of the day

memoration of
his
The
sepulchre.
Enriquez
was
built in
de Pibera, in com-
having performed a pilgrimage to the holy
how
architecture proves
closely the Spaniards
of the fifteenth century imitated the Saracenic forms.
now
wild
The
in a scandalous state of neglect.
washed and used

;
for drying clothes
the sculpture
is
is
saloons are white-
tossed about as in a stone-mason's yard.
fountains and injured'
its
All
the gardens are running
The noble Gothic balustrade over the

yard with
1533
entrance, the grand court
Poman
statues of Pallas,
worthy of careful observation.
Ceres,
and
ing
magnificent staircase look at the chief suite of rooms
its
others, are
Ascend-
where everything that stucco, carving azulejo and gilding could

do,
was done.
remain in
all
Walk
then into the pleasant gardens that
the vivid beauty of nature, and
still
mournfully reflect
over the marbles and sculpture cast like rubbish
amid the
weeds.
The
lovers of quaint
and crazy
find a labyrinth of lanes in
bits
"of architecture,"
the Jews' quarter.
will
Before their
expulsion from Seville they were apart from the Moriscos.
In
the Judc-rei, the house once inhabited by Murillo, close to the
JUMBLE OF LANES AND STREETS.
291
an interest to Jewry, which was never so agree-
city wall, gives
able as in the associations connected with this celebrated pain-
The parish church, La Santa Cruz,
ter.
in
which he was
was pulled down by the French, who scattered
buried,
w as baptized
r
Murillo
in
Magdalena
the
that
church, also,
His tomb consisted of a plain
Soult destroyed.
his bones.
slab,
placed
before the Descent from the Cross of Campana, with a skeleton
engraved on
room, na^,
upper
floor,
fountain,
and the motto, " Yive Moriturus."
His paint-
living room, for he lived to paint,
w as on the
it,
his
and
is
In the garden, the
as cheerful as his works.
and Italian
mermaids,
frescoes, compositions of fawns,
They have
and women, with musical instruments, are admired.
been attributed by some to Murillo, whose they certainly are

not,
and by others to Lopez de Yargas, which
is
more probable.
This house was lately inhabited by Canon Cepero,
much
who
did so
to rescue art at Seville, during the recent constitutional
outbreaks.
tion of
He
was a man of
many and bad
taste,
pictures.
and has, or had, a
His
fault
was not
collec-
entirely his
own, for where good ones are not to be procured, which
is
" the
great fact " of Seville, the bad are the best.
One house
in Seville, the
Calk Santiago
Patron Saint of Spain, deserves to be

is
a barrack of washerwomen
What
What
what
named
after the
visited for fun's sake.
It
a scene for the artist
costume, balconies, draperies, color, attitude, grouping
a carrying of vases, after the antique
what a
clatter of
female tongues, a barking of dogs, a squalling of children

living Murillos
will assail the impertinente curioso.
all
292
QUARTERS, OR WARDS.
" Desde la Catedral, a la Magdalena,
Se almuerza,
Desde
se come,
se
cena
Magdalena, a San Vicente,
la
Se come solamente
Desde San Vicente, a
la
Macarena,
JVi se almuerza, ni se come, ni se
(i
From
the Cathedral to the Magdalen,
They breakfast, they
From
They only
dine,
and then get up.
They never break

different quarters, into
expressed in the
to the
their fast nor sup."
which Seville
the cathedral, in the Calle de

their "" close
The
here,
los
Abades.
"their
This Abbot's street
bellies
In the San
they were half starving.
street
of
and
arms.
the
Calle
Here the
de
Vicente lived the knights
arallo de Tormes, has
The Macarena now,
as
the
aristocratic
with their wives and
hidalgos,
characteristic,
good capons
and supped; recently
they only dined; they
pinched their stomachs to deck their backs
unchanged Iberian
with
Armas was
daughters, ate less and dressed more
cient
divided, are well
best houses were near
lined," the dignitaries breakfasted, dined
nobles,
is
young pelicans under
clergy gathered like
the wing of the mother church.
and
Macaren,
above verses, and the translation.
The once wealthy
was
and they sup.
dine,
the Magdalen to Saint Vincent again,
But from Saint Vincent
The
cena"
but the most an-
from Athenaeus to Laz-
been external show and internal want.

it
always was,
is
the abode of ragged
poverty, which never could, or can for a certainty reckon on
one or any meal a day.

293
PROLIFIC CLERGY.
The Calk
Abades should be
de los
so redolent of rich ollas.
although no longer
visited,
The cathedral
staff consisted of
an
archbishop, an auxiliary bishop, eleven dignitaries, forty canons,
twenty prebendaries, twenty minor canons, twenty vienteneros,
and twenty chaplains of the

very great
ter,
quire.
Their emoluments were
nearly 900 houses in Seville belonged to the chap-
besides vast estates, tithes, and corn rents.
1836, appropriated
to the State
all this
of canons has been reduced,
even those not paid
and
Menclizabal, in
number
since then the
their incomes
still
more, and
formerly this street was a rookery, nor
were their nests without progeny.
In the mediaeval period the
concubines of the celibate clergy were almost licensed, as

the
The
Moors.
was
mistress
among
barragana, from the
called
Arabic words barra, strange, and gana ganidir, a connexion

hence, in
old
Spanish, natural
children
are
ganancia, which has nothing to do with gain
called
hijos
analogous
is
de
the
" strange
woman"
correctly,
have derived the word from the Arabic JBarragan,
single,
tfius
unmarried
in
Judges
xi.
which was
others,
and probably more
essential to secure to the parties
cohabiting without marriage, the sort of morganatic status
allowed by the law.
Many
children born in this street
"
En
jests
as
regards the
Abades,
la calle de los
Todos hart
They
were the
Tios,
y ningunos Padres."
called their father their wide,
and he called
his children
nephews.
" Los Canonijos Madre no tiencn

)
hijos
Los que tienen en casa, son sobrinicos."
The wealth and comparative luxury
of the Spanish clergy
294
exposed them to popular envy and plunder
were urged by the auri sacra fames
had
so well feathered its nest that

;
sublunary
his
pious innovators
and certainly the church
Death met with no ruder
welcome than when he tapped at a good
was contented with
lot, his
who
dignitary's door,
house, housekeeper,
cook, and income paid quarterly, and pair of sleek mules
canon, or Regla de Santiago, was thus laid
down
good
;
the
es amar a Don Diner o.

El Primer
segnndo
es
amolar a todo el mundo.
El
El tercero ouen vaca y carnero.

El cuarto ayunar despues de harto.
El quinto buen bianco y Unto.
Y est os
cinco, se encierran en dos,
Todo para mi, y nada para
vos.
to love the Lord Money.

grind the world.
The third good beef and mutton.
The fourth to fast when one can eat no more.
The
good winewhite and red.
The
first is
The second
to
is
all
is
is
fifth is
And
may be summed up
me and nothing for you.
these five rules
Everything for
The great square
was long
of Seville
in two
called de
San
from the neighboring and now destroyed convent.

its
cloisters that Murillo painted, in
superb pictures which

after his return
of arms
by
first
in the Alcazar,
and which
purchased and paid

is
It
was
for
1645, that series of eleven
his talents
known
in Seville,
All these were removed by force
from Madrid.
Soult, save one,
The Plaza
made
Francisco,
which he
is
now
left
behind in his hurry,
in the
London
collection,
for.
the heart of the city
gossip and of executions.
It
is
the forum, the
place of
very Moorish and picturesque,

CHOICE PICTURES.
with
its
295
arcades and balconies; under the former are the jewel-
er's shops.
MURILLOS.
The
pictures
finest
in
are
Seville
the
in
La
Caridad, the Museo, and the University.

alms-house for poor old men,
and
river,
lies
La
Cathedral,
Caridad, or
outside the walls, near the
a hospital dedicated to St. George, and rebuilt by
is
Miguel Mafiana, a friend of MurihVs.
On
entering the church,
the carved and painted Descent from the Cross over the high
altar
is
the masterpiece of the Pedro Roldan.
the " Triumph of

Leal.
The
latter
Time" and a "Dead

is
1660-H,
coro
Prelate," by J. Valdes
a disgusting picture, which Muriilo said he
Here he
could not look at without holding his nose.

in
Under the
painted,
that series of grand pictures, of which Soult
hence called by Torreno the modern Yerres
carried
off five:
with the Santa Isabel he bribed Buonaparte, keeping four, viz:

" the Angels
and Abraham," " the Prodigal Son,"
ing the Cripple," and
" the
" Grace " had
St. Peter,"
at Paris, being open to a
Spaniards have never
yawn
Angel and
like graves,
and
filled
" the
good
this hiatus
mazime
which his
offer.
up the blank spaces;
Heal-
The
the gaps
defiendus remains as an
evidence of French love for the fine arts and the eighth com-
mandment.
The Murillos now in the Caridad are an "Infant Saviour" on

panel,
and injured; a "St. John,"
Juan de Dios," equal
to
Loaves and Fishes; but the
rich
and brown; a "San
Rembrandt; the Pan y

figure of Christ,
Thousand, which ought to be the principal,

the
"Moses
striking the
Rock"
is
much
is
Feces,
or
feeding the Five
here subordinate:
finer; this, indeed, is

296
representation of the Hagar-like thirst of the desert, and
La
justly called
Sed : both pictures are
is
and painted
colossal,
in a sketchy manner, calculated for the height and distance of
from the spectator, which, however,
their position
veniently high and distant; but here they
still
incon-
is
hang
like rich
oranges on the bough where they originally budded.
At
glory,
Bartolme Esteban Murillo
Seville
and a
giant, like Antseus,
on
April
were sent
and baptized Januaay
Both were
in 1810, to
off,
Murillo,
1618, where he died,
1,
was of more masculine and
true alike in form
and color
intellectual subjects.
to Spanish nature
both were genuine, national, and idiosyncratic.

three styles
the pictures in
calido, or
his coloring
his
his out-
His third
was the
Vapor oso, or misty, vaporous, and blending.

el
these were
was improved, while
well denned and marked.
partly because Herrera
Of
His second manner was
San Francisco.
warm, when
still
Murillo had
the Frio, his earliest, being based on Ribera and
Caravaggio, was dark, with a decided outline.
was
finest
1682, was the painter of female and infantine grace,
3,
as Velazquez
line
His
" Commissioner."
Cadiz, and thus escaped from the

Seville,
to be seen in all his
his native soil.
pictures, painted for the Capuchinos,
born at
is
Mozo had made
style
This he adopted
it
the fashion, and
partly because, being stinted for time from the increased orders,
he could not
his
finish so highly.
Thus, to get more quickly over
work, he sacrificed a somewhat of his previous conscien-
tious drawing.
MUSEUM.
The Museo
in Spain,
is
of Seville, which
is
by
far the first provincial
the creation of accident and individuals.
one
Among
ZURBARAN AND MURILLO.
297
the finest pictures observe the Apotheosis of Thomas" Aquinas,

the master-piece of Francisco Zurbaran, and painted in 1625;
"removed" to Paris by Soult,

at Waterloo; the
Don Augustin
Head
was recovered by Wellington
it
Domingo
of Santo
is
the portrait of
de Escobar; the drapery, velvet, armor,
combined with much more
offer a blaze of splendor
etc.,
stuff
and
substance than in the ornamental brocades of P. Veronese
Zurbaran
is
called the Spanish Caravaggio, but he
more Titian esque, more elevated
in
is
much
Among
mind and manner.
the other Zurbarans observe " San Henrique de Sufon" and

"
San Luis Bertran," and the
first-rate pictures
II.," " the
"
Padre Eterno;"
from the Cartuja
"
also the three
San Bruno before Urban
Virgin protecting the Monks," and " San
Hugo
in
the Refectory:" although unfortunately injured by over-cleaning,
they are magnificent.
Xo
one ever painted fleecy-hosiery
Carthusian monks like Zurbaran; he was, however, apt to draw

too
much from
lay figures, which gives a hard outline.
studier of style will notice
the peculiar pinky tone
The
of this
master, especially in female cheeks: they seem fed on roses, as
-was said of Parrhasius and Baroccio; but the prevalent use

of rouge at that time
influenced his eye, as
it
did that of
Velazquez.
The Murillos are placed

a diadem.
The
finest
is
like
gems
came from the Capuchin convent,
which they were painted at

light
Sala de Murillo,
in the
his best period.
in
for
Although the
better than that of their original positions, yet they lose
something by the change, as Murillo,
in designing
them,
cal-
culated exactly for each locality, and painted up to the actual

light
and point of view
who seemed
and we miss the Capuchino
cicerone,
to have stepped out of one of the pictures to tell us
where Murillo went
for a model,
and how true was
13*
his portrait
:;
293
the Santo Tomas de Villa nueva was called by the painter sw

cuadro, his
own
The beggars
picture.
are beyond price
none
could represent them and Franciscans like Murillo, and simply
because he painted them the most, and only what he saw

actually in the
Macarena and
remember them
will admit.
at every convent gate, as
His was a
who
all
faithful transcript of
Spanish mendicant and monastic nature, neither more nor
The San
Felix de Cantalicio
is
less.
the perfection of the vapor oso
the delicate young flesh of the child, the Corregiesque morbidezza, contrasts with the greys of the saint.
Spaniards,
painted con
is
leche
This, say the
y sangre, or with milk and blood.
The Santas Justa y Rufina is in his calido style, forcible, and

" The Nativity
yet tender.
f " The Adoration of Shepherds f
San Leandro and San Buenaventurarobserve the peeping boy
Correggio, not that Murillo ever studied from him, he
like
San
looked rather to the children of Roelas.

con
el
tordero ;
"The Yirgin and
San Juan
Jose;
La
Child," called
Serviletta,
because said to have been painted on a dinner-napkin

child almost struggles out of his mother's arms,
and out of the
seen Murillo's great power of drawing.
is
and Angels with the Dead Christ
San Antonio
is
finer
"
on
book
San
The Annunciation."
Child/' from
San
is
The
picture than that in the cathedral
Felix, half-length.
There
Capuchinos.
:"
"The Yirgin
observe the monks expression looking on the child that

his
the
" St. Francis embracing the Crucified Saviour
picture-frame.
here
also
is
seated
All these came from the
an early Murillo, a "Yirgin and
The
rest of
the collection, some hundred pictures, are by different
artists,
and of
different
Jose,
and two of San Agustin.
degrees of merit.
the pearls of greatest price.

Concepcion
by
Murillo, once
The above
At last,
a gem of
not
least,
selected are
observe
La
the Capuchin convent.
CORTEGE AND CANDLES.
There
299
another of this popular Seville subject, but not so
is
Murillo, from his excellence in painting this " mystery,"

called
was
pintor de las concepciones.
el
MACULATE CONCEPTION.
The dogma
of original
is
that the Virgin
was born
free
from
all
taint
In 1613, a Dominican monk of Seville having
sin.
contended that the Deipara was

ties
fine
their rival mendicants,
of original sin,
and penal-
liable to the pains
the Franciscans,
affirmed that she was exempt, whereupon the whole population,
with the
sinless
Mary,
set
upon a
sort of standard, called a sin
Picado, surmounted by a cross, paraded the city singing praises
and the hymns of the
to the Immaculate Conception,
They
take place during the holy week and the winter
still
and are very picturesque.
season,
of men,
women, and
through the narrow

tees,
who
rosary.
children,
streets
At
nightfall the long lines
two and two, are seen twinkling
the procession
is
headed by devo-
The
carry richly chased lamps on staves.
priest follows, bearing the glittering
parish
banner of gold and velvet
as soon as the cortege passes by, the candles in the balconies
are put out
behind
is
thus, while all before
dark, and
it
seems as
if
was one glare of
the banner of the Virgin cast
glory and effulgence before her, like the
ceded
light, all
fire-pillar
which pre-
the Israelites in the desert.
Formerly no one entered a house or company without giving

the watchword of Seville, Ave
Maria purisima,
to which the
inmates responded by the countersign sin pecado concebida :

the
first
portion
is
now
generally the indication of a visit from a
mendicant.
Seville
having taken the lead in the dispute,
it
is
natural
300
that some of the most perfect conceptions of Murillo and Alonzo
Cano should have been devoted

poreal mystery
and never has
cence of mind, unruffled by
embodying
to the
composure and inno-
dignified
human
this incor-
guilt or passion,
pure un-
sexual unconsciousness of sin or shame, heavenly beatitude past

utterance, or the unconquerable majesty and " hidden strength
of chastity," been
7
more
She appears
exquisitely portrayed.
in
a state of extatic beatitude, and borne aloft in a golden aether

to heaven, to which her beauteous eyes are turned,
of angels, which none could color like him.
loveliness of the blessed
Mary seems
so silently on her, that she

fascination.
The
is
to
The
by a group
retiring virgin
have stolen so gently,
unaware of her own power and
Inquisition required the Yirgin to be painted
as about fifteen years old, very beautiful, with those regular

.
features which the Greek
artists selected to express the perfect
passionless serenity of the immortal gods,

frailties,
devoid of
human
"the unpolluted temple of the mind;" that her
atti-
tude should be
"
Her graceful arms in meekness bending

Across her gently budding breast "
that she should be clad in a spotless robe of blue and white
She
because she appeared in those colors to Beatriz de Silva.

should bruise with her heel the serpent's head
on the author of original
sin.
thus trampling
She should stand on a moon
crescent shape, and encircled with stars, because she

"
woman
clothed with the sun, and the
and upon her head a crown of twelve
She
is
moon under
stars."
is
her
(Rev.
in
the
feet,
xii. 1.)
often surrounded with smaller pictures, which represent
her different attributes
the draperies of the Yirgin must be
very long, and her feet never shown.
MANUFACTURE OF TOBACCO.
The mystery
rial
of the incarnation
is
301
shadowed out
in the
armo-
bearings of the Virgin, the vase with lily-branches, jarro con
agucenas, which
to be seen sculptured in Spanish cathedrals,
is
most of which are dedicated to
her,
and not to the Father or
Son.
In the middle ages an idea was prevalent that any
female
who
ate the
lily
would become pregnant
Lucina
sine
concubitu.
RAMBLE ABOUT TOWN.

While we were at
Seville
we remained
at the Hotel of
Europe, enjoying the society of two agreeable English
whose company we afterwards engaged
One
tains to Gibraltar.
inn,
which was
Seville,
in
officers,
a ride over the moun-
day, after a pleasant dinner at this
built after the
common
style of the houses in
having a central court-yard and fountain ornamented
with a garden, we strolled about the
city,
and taking the
tion of the gate of Saint Ferdinand, accidentally
the whole gang of the cigar girls
who were
fell
direc-
in with
returning after the
labors of the day, from the grand manufactory of tobacco,
ated in this quarter.

females
situ-
This establishment employs over 5,000
and we were obliged to face the whole number of
this
formidable body of work-women, a task from which a modest
man
like ourselves
would naturally
shrink.
We
should have
been better sustained under the emergency, had there been a

pretty face
among
the innumerable
number
of black, piercing
and one has no
eyes arrayed against us.
Where beauty
fails,
knowledge of the gentler
sex, excepting
from a passing obser-
vation,
it is
impossible to
awaken any
further interest in them,
than that which would be excited by the contemplation of any

other object of pleasurable emotion.
302
In spite of our early dreams of dark, lustrous Spanish
we
confess
we were disappointed with the
cian beauties.
know,
They
Andalu-
possess grace without doubt, as
we had an opportunity
for
style of the
to admire
it
eyes,
we
well
even in the winning
manners and personal naivete of our washerwoman's daughter

Notwithstanding the renommee of the Spanish
at the hotel.
ladies,
and
their world-spread reputation, they did not satisfy
They
our idea of the beautiful.
certainly
had noble
gaits,
and
They
the chief attraction lay in the expression of their eyes.
always appeared to us like children of nature, but lacking in

education and refinement.
in favor of the
beauty; and
fascinating
if
made an exception
If I
Duchess of Montpensier, who

all
little
the Andalucian ladies were like her,
what
is
and enchanting creatures they would be
when
was
the
Duke /"
quite late in the afternoon, as proper
went out to Tablada to
Alcazar, I thought,
Continuing our walk
Tauromachian
see the ganado, or
what
travelers,
cattle the bulls
were, which were to figure in the next sport of the arena
on the ground we found
all
was
and while I stood watching,
as she vanished behind the door of the

lucky fellow
seeing her alight from her carriage
to enter the gates of her palace
What a
would be
a perfect
particularly fortunate
"
it
the fancy
men
and
or bull jockeys, can-
vassing the merits of the different animals previous to making

their bets
wagered
home from
enjoying the glorious view of the distant

its
connoisseurs
we
to the breed of the Jarama, but were
better pleased on our return
gilding
As
on the quality of the blood.
in preference
the bull-farm, while
city, as
towers and pinnacles with gold.
another path from that by which

into the walks of the old
we had
the sunset was
Passing round by
sallied out,
we
struck
Alemeda, and then crossing over to
that side of the Guadalquivir, where the tower of gold sur-
303
BULL-FIGHT AT SEVILLE.
mounts
its
bank, rested awhile under the shades of the garden
groves that line the approach to the Gate of Xeres, by which
we
re-entered the city.
PLAZA DE TOROS.
Tauroinachian travelers will remember the day before the
Tablada to see the ganado, or what cattle
fight to ride out to
the bulls are, and go early the next day to witness the encierro
be sure also at the show to secure a

con de yiedra,
i.
boletin de
sowbra
in
bal-
a good seat in the shade.
e.,
The preparations being complete,

passage through which the bull
is
eyes are turned to the
all
to enter.
He
has been for
about twelve hours shut up in total darkness, with heavy

weights upon his neck, the loose parts of his skin about the neck
gathered up in
is
folds, perforated,
and
He
tied with red ribbon.
inflamed to madness by these tortures, and the
moment he
is
liberated he rushes into the arena with the fury of a wild beast.
He
comes on so rapidly that he passes by the picadors and chu-
los
drawn up on
either
side,
He
without noticing them.
advances to the centre of the arena, glaring with his bloodshot

eyes
upon the
side,
and
is
circle
of spectators
rendered
still
more
which suddenly bursts upon him.
who hem him
furious
He
is
in
on every
by the glare
of light
a noble animal
his
limbs are symmetrical and clean, his body light, his neck and
shoulders broad and obviously of immense strength, his head
beautifully shaped,
dors
now
of the
and
his horns long
and curved.
The
pica-
begin to move from their stations, following the sides
arena,
and passing round so as to meet him
The moment he
in front.
discovers his enemy, he dashes at him.
waits for no assault.
The picador whom he has
He
singled out has
304
but just time to turn
his horse's
draw him up near one
On
him.
of the passages,
he bounds at
when he throws
his
head a
full
little
outward, and to
when
the bull attacks
speed, until he
whole strength into a single impulse, and
He
dashes his horns into the horse's flank.

picador's spear in his shoulder, but
With
and
it
his rider clear off the
The horse
the rider
is
instantly
side,
he raises him
ground, and pitches them both against
the wooden breastwork of the arena.

the earth.
has received the
has not even checked him.
horns plunged deep into the horse's
his
within reach,
is
They come together
to
regains his feet, horribly lacerated, and
upon
his
The poor
back again.
pain lends him strength for a moment, and he
flies
animal's
across the
arena, in spite of the efforts of his rider, dragging his entrails
upon the ground, and trampling on them with
The
his
hind
feet.
instant the bull has overturned his antagonist, one of the
chulos advances, unfurling a red scarf and flourishing

face.
The animal rushes
at him,
and
it
in his
as the latter glides out of
the arena through one of the passages, vents his rage
upon the
boards which separate him from the object of his pursuit.
he expends only a moment upon
He
this idle warfare.
But
sees
another picador drawn up to receive him, and he attacks him
with the same fury as he did the

little
first.
The
picador's
arm
is
stronger than the other's, or he wields his spear with more
dexterity,
and the
bull
is
partially foiled.
But he returns
to
the charge in an instant, tears open the horse's flank by a successful thrust,
and hurls him and
his rider to the ground.
The
chulos are again upon him, clashing their long scarfs into his
face,
and he turns upon them, leaving the
rider to regain their feet.
He is now
in a warfare with the chulos.
upon the
As
ill-fated
engaged
for
horse and
some moments
he turns upon one, or rather
scarf he carries, another assails
him on the opposite
BULL
side,
always turning him
off
from
305
STRUGGLES.
and gradually wast-
his object,
But the picadors have only a
ing his strength.
He
TERRIFIC
brief respite.
and he seems glad to exchange the bewil-
discovers a third,
dering attacks of the scarf-bearers for a contest with a more
He
tangible enemy.
rushes on with renewed fury, the spear of
and then
the picador enters his shoulder,
The
the rider's hand.

sition
by
infuriated animal breaks
The horse and
his prodigious force.
fate of the
two
first.
The
shockingly gored.
and there
The
rider
The
bull,
effort of strength,
arena
now
we
and
his horns,
is
Had we
full
up,
aside
shi-
by the
and actually
lets
him
fall
it
The
incredible.
of brutality as the
most
The horse just
over-
gasp on the ground, and the two others are
streaming with blood, his tongue

is
is
not witnessed this wonderful
dragging their entrails about the arena.
and he
him
should have considered
presents a scene as
at his last
oppo-
whole frame
his
and then
ardent lover of the bull-fight could desire.
turned
all
rider share the
who has been turned
him several paces on
heavily to the ground.
down
latter runs into the centre of the arena,
chulos, discovers him, dashes at him, takes

carries
powerless from
thrown and the horse
is
stands, his bowels torn out,
vering with pain.
falls
The
bull's
neck
is
protruded from his mouth,
is
standing a moment, regardless of the chulos,
who
are
besetting him, collecting his waning strength for another contest
with his enemies,
he instantly attacks him.

loss of blood,
and by the
fourth picador approaches him, and
But he
by the
spear.
He
to
have
it
is
is
but the
a slight one, and the picador leads
coarsely sewed up, and then brings
again for another contest.
His
more than once turned aside
succeeds in wounding the horse
rent in the horse's flank
him out
obviously weakened by
he has already made.
efforts
attacks are less vigorous, and he
is
The
bull
is
now
him back
nearly exhausted,
306
and the banderilleros come

fireworks,
in
with barbed darts covered with
in,
which they thrust into him, and he
smoke and
This
flame.
and
flag,
In
enters.
hand he
his left
He
right a straight sword.
in his
the last stage of torture.
is
trumpet sounds, and the matador

holds a red
soon enveloped
is
is
dressed even more expensively than the picadors and chulos, in
a richly embroidered jacket, with white breeches and

It
ings.
in Spain,
is
the celebrated Montez, the most expert bull-killer
and he
He
spectators.
as
rily,
onist
if
greeted with thundering plaudits by the
is
advances towards the
bull,
who
eyes him wa-
he were aware that a new and more dangerous antag-
had taken the
only a moment.
field
against him.
Gathering
all his
But
the animal hesitates
with his right the fatal sword at the

staggers and
falls.
left side,
The sword has entered the
barous
scene
pointing
The
bull's neck.
spine,
bull
and the
Thus ends
blood pours in streams from his nose and mouth.

first
upon the
strength, he rushes
red flag which the matador holds out on his
the
silk stock-
a scene loathsome, disgusting, brutal, and bar-
a scene only
fit
managed with some
dexterity,
cle of chivalric bearing,
and to create them
to gratify assassins
it
and under
is
true,
but without a partia stain upon
all its aspects,
The moment the
the humanity and civilization of the age.
has received his mortal wound, one of the gates
bull
thrown open,
is
and three mules, harnessed abreast, and adorned with flaunting

ribbons, are driven in to drag
him
drawing out the dead horse and the

strength to stand.
tainment.
But
Seven other
this
is
out.
others follow,
half-living one,
only the
bulls are
Two
first
who has not
scene in the enter-
successively brought
undergo the same tortures, and to encounter the same

Before they are
all
killed, eleven horses are
or dying, from the arena.
dragged
The matadors, the
out,
in
to
fate.
dead
picadors, the
REFLECTION ON CRUELTY.
and the
banderilleros,
clmlos, all escape uninjured, or, at the
Though
most, with some slight sprains.

less applause,
aud
301
there was, perhaps,
apparent gratification among the great
less
body of the spectators than we had expected,

disguised that
it
were females.
Of
had met
present
is
a favorite
About
amusement.
not to be
one-third
these, one
was an Englishwoman whom we
in our travels, the
only lady of Anglo-Saxon origin
but before the
the arena,
is
it
filled
bull
first
was
she rose and
killed,
with horror and disgust.
Of
left
the tendency of
these brutal spectacles to blunt the sensibilities, and to prepare
the mind to dwell with indifference upon scenes of bloodshed
and
cruelty, there
can be no rational doubt.
We believe
be neither a harsh nor an erroneous judgment to

people with
whom
the bull-fight
is
say, that
to
no
a national amusement, can
They may
ever attain a high rank in the scale of civilization.
have their peculiar virtues
it
but humanity towards their fellows,
or towards the brutes which Providence has placed in their
hands, to be governed and used in kindness and in mercy, will
not
be
one.
The
with
cruelty
which the
Spain have been waged of late years
the
are
all
a hero and a favorite, and
is,
hands cut
off,
of
the
the legitimate offspring of the
lessons of barbarity taught in the arena.

is
wars
modes too wanton and
eyes put out, the horrible maimings, in
loathsome to be named
civil
as
it
Where
the matador
were, incorporated into
the social mass by the force of opinion, the assassin and the
bandit
may
At
events, they will not be wanting.
all
claim, with
and philosophy
the bull-fight
some color of
title,
in the closing stanza of
a place there also.
There
is
equal truth
Byron's description of
308
" Such the ungentle sport that
oft incites
The Spanish maid, and cheers the Spanish swain.
Nurtured in blood betimes,
his heart delights
In vengeance, gloating on another's pain.
What
private feuds the troubled village stain
Though now one phalanxed host should meet the

Enough, alas in humble homes remain,
foe,
To meditate 'gainst friends the secret blow,

For some slight cause of wrath, whence
must
life's
warm stream
flow."
Childe Harold, Canto
I.
80.
INNER VIEWS.
The
Plaza
Calle de la Surge, the

del
street of Seville leads to the
Duque, where the great Dukes of Medina Sidona had

This central square
their palace.
is
planted, and forms the
is
promenade during the summer months,
fashionable nocturnal
and which
Bond
so southern
and
slocking.
Continuing from the Plaza, past the Church of San Yicente,

to the old and deserted Alemeda, where the fountain of the
archbishop casts
excellent water, there remain
its
awhile to
observe the residence of the horse-dealers and jockeys, whose

dealing in cattle
meda
is
are kept up with

tival
is
is
constantly going on.
the scene of vigils and wakes
much
activity
on
In June
this
Ale-
these nocturnal services
St. John's day,
and the
fes-
proverbially merry.
" La de San Juan en
Sevilla
Es alegre a maravilla
" The way Saint John's day
Is
gay enough, I'm sure,
is
!"
kept in Seville,
for the Devil."
This St. John's, our midsummer eve,
is
devoutly dedicated
MANTILLAS AND FLIRTATIONS.
to flirtation
by both
sexes,
who go
break to gather vervain, coger
309
go out at day-
or ought to
la verbena,
which represents in
Spain the magical fern-seed of our English forefathers.
The
Spanish ladies make use of their mantillas in
and
join the skillful
management
This article of dress
is
the fan in
coquetry.
their
in a state of perpetual motion, ever
used by them and yet without

in coquetting, for
of
flirtations,
much
use to refresh them, except
they flourish them with a movement similar
to the wings of a fluttering bird,
making them serve the double
purpose of conveying their thoughts, and of concealing their
At
emotions.
this feast bonfires are lighted in sign of rejoic-
the bcn-feu of the
ings, like
British
Guy Eawkes
through which the lower classes leap
all this
over
is
the exact
manner by which the ancients celebrated the entrance

sun into the summer
To
the left of the fountain del Arzobispo
that order
tion.
The
more
of the character
tains no record of its
A fair
majas
is
was a convent
is
of the
first
and
to the Inquisi-
velvet, while students
than of the
dungeons and torture rooms
in all respect a
seen in
proprietors,
Dismantled by the populace,
held every Thursday in
may be
of Jesuits,
rather cheerful than forbidding, partakes
horror of the second.
hastening to ruin,
a barrack of
is
was suppressed, was given up
eclifice r
of the
solstice.
tattered invalids, which once
when
and
all
fit
La
abode for
Feria,
its
it
con-
but, fast
inmates.
where majos and
the brilliant costume of tinsel and
walk the
streets,
chanting like the old
troubadours, not for charity merely, but shaking their tambourines in concert with their
thrummed
guitars in order to earn
the means for their education at the University.
The scene
juma
is
of Cairo.
Oriental,
The
and reminding you of the Sock
street in
which
it
occurs leads to the
310
Plaza
de la Encarnacion
now the
market-place, to construct
which the French jplled down a convent, dedicated to the
You
Incarnation.
fish
and game are
excellent, as
by the autumnal
and
find fish, flesh, fruits,
will
acorn,
the
is
also the pork,
when
fattened
teaches these
Instinct
lellota.
the
fowls,
beasts to fatten themselves on the good things which a bountiful
The meats which
nature provides.
and the attention of man, are very
made
two-ounce
of the
stricken
olla,
which generates
caloric, is
meat
of
seem as parsimonious as
in this
The purchases
far inferior.
"joints"
must be remembered that
require artificial care,
for
poverty
the
in the time of Justin.
burning clime
It
anamel food,
less
necessary than in the cold north.
Notwithstanding the Spanish proverb considers the
man who
dines in Seville as especially favored by heaven, "
A quien Dios
my
readers will
quiere lien,
think
en
Sevilla
le
da
comer," few
of
so.
Don
Pedro's bust in a neighboring street was placed there in
memorial of
"friend"
his
having stabbed a man.
Don Juan was
His and Lord Byron's
a Sevillian map, and a true hidalgo at
that.
marble tablet
thus inscribed, near the aperture
is
charitable donations, in the foundling hospital of
"
Quoniam pater meus
autem assumpsit."
et
mater mea deliquerant
(Psalms xxvii. 10.)
La
left for
Cuna.
me Dominus
wicket door
is
pierced in the wall, which opens on being tapped to receive the

sinless children of sin,
in.
whom
a nurse
sits
up at night to take
This, formerly little better than a charnel house, has been
taken in charge by some benevolent

ters of Charity,
and
is
ladies, assisted
admirably conducted
by the
Sis-
a duty of a real
being levied on every bushel of corn sold in the market.
CONVENT
A RIDE
ORANGE GROVES.
ROUND SEVILLE.
"
My
311
kingdom
horse! a horse
for a horse
!"
Shakspere, Richard
III.
Quite early in the morning of a balmy August day, our party
was mounted on Andalucian steeds ready to

around the walls of the
and the
of
circuit
its
city.
Seville
is
start
on a ride
surrounded by suburbs,
well preserved Moorish
w alls contains
T
We commenced going out from
.many objects of great interest.
the Calle Gallegos by the Royal Gate, through which St. Ferdi-
nand entered
Emerging from a dip
in triumph.
San Laureano, behind which
the College of
to the right,
is
are the ruins of the
house of Fernando, son of the great Columbus, we soon reached the suburbs of Los Humeros.
Moorish Dock-yards
site
sies,
of the
Roman
and
it
is
tunnels
supposed to have
and
been the
now tenanted by gipby Barrow, who are ever ready to
naval arsenal.
the zincali spoken of
Here were the

It
is
get up a funcionj or gipsy dance for the stranger's dinero or
money.
Turning to the
right,
between the
river
banks and the
walls,
a raised rampart and planted walk suggests the frequent inundations to which this side of the city
its
is
exposed, while opposite
orange-groves the remains of the old
Cartuja Convent,
stand in bold relief before the distant towers of Italica and

the purple
hills
of the Siera Morena.
In the Chozas opposite the gate of San Juan, wr here the

ferry boats ply, ichthyophiles
go to eat shad.
Huevos and
Savolo, fresh shad and eggs are the correct thing for the epicure,
although this
fish is
rather unwholesome in summer.
312
Here
also
El
Sollo,
the sturgeon,
caught, one of which the
is
cathedral chapter used to send to the royal table, reserving
many
The
others for their own.
Half a mile outside

from
called,
is
turn to the right.
the once noble convent of St. Jerome,
pleasant views,
its
now
walls
La
buena
The
vista.
Patio, in
Doric and Ionic worthy of Herrera, was designed by two
monks.
It
is
now
a glass manufactory.
his last farewell of Seville,
when
St.
Here Axataf took
Ferdinand entered.
turning by gardens hedged with aloes and

canes,
The
San
is
interior
is
Lazaro, the Leper Hospital, founded in 1254.

miserable, as the funds of this true Lazar-house
are converted by the trustees chiefly to their

will
own
which
common
is
in
leg,
Barbary, and not rare in Andalucia, and
extended by the charity- imploring patient in the way
of the passenger, whose eye
is
startled
and pained by what at
seems a huge cankered boa-constrictor.
"lepers were put out of the
These hospitals
among
camp." (Numb. v.
were always placed outside the
cities;
so,
the Jews,
The word Leper o,
at Mexico,
is
The
2.)
plague-stricken were compelled to dwell alone. (Ley.
is
Here
use.
be seen cases of elephantiasis, the hideous swelled
disease
first
tall
Re-
whispering
xiii.
equivalent to " beggar."
46.)
He
the Lazzarone of Naples, that Paradise of idlers.
A Moorish
causeway, raised in order to be a
inundations, leads to
La
Marcarena, the huge
pital rising to the right; this is the
agricultural laborers.
zens of
du
all
climat, as in
all
tattered
against
Sangre Hos-
suburb of the poor and
and party-colored
deni-
ages and sexes, the children often stark naked, vetus
Barbary, and like bronze Cupids, cluster outside
their hovels in the sun.
are
The
La
dam
pictures;
Their carts, implements, and animals
everything seems naturally to
painter's group, a tableau vivant,
fall
into
and particularly as regards
SUBJECTS FOR ARTISTS.
certain " small deer," caza menor, for

is
313
which a regular battue
always going on in the thick preserves of the womens' hair.
Here
was that Murillo came
it
for subject
and
color; here are
the rich yellows and browns in which he revelled;

beggars,
imps,
and urchins, who, with
here are
their parents,
when
simply transcribed by his faithful hand, seemed to walk out of

the frames, for their
Continuing the
life
and
reality carries every spectator
turn
ride,
left,
away.
to the enormous Hospital de
la Sangre, or de las cinco Llagas, the five bleeding
wounds of
our Saviour, which are sculptured like bunches
of grapes.
Blood
is
an ominous name for this house of Sangrado, whose
lancet, like the Spanish knife, gives little quarter.
tion of the foundress, Catalina de Ribera,
The
inten-
was more perfect
than the performance of her successors; after her death the

funds
were misapplied, and the building remains, and may
remain, unfinished, although a pious person
has
the purpose.
left legacies for
The south and
named Andueza,
principal fagade, 600 feet long, presents a
noble architectural appearance of the classical Ionic and Doric
The
style.
portal
The
Seville.
is
one of the good architectural bits in
interior Patio
occupies the centre
cross,
with Ionic
was designed by Maeda,

whose pictures
in
it
striking; the
handsome chapel
on the front are sculptured medallions of
Faith, Hope, and Charity,
Latin
is
by Pedro Machuca: the chapel
pillars; tine- Ret alio of
in 1600,
and
gilt
is
the high altar
by Alonso Vazquez,
have suffered from neglect and repainting.
Observe the " Crucifixion," with the "Magdalen," and eight

Virgins,
events,
by Zurbaran, of no great
were not
merit.
restored in this hospital, as
Pictures,
at
all
many have been
used as floor-cloths and scrubbing-towels.
The
interior
management
of this hospital,
14
now
the principal
31-1
one of
Seville, is
hardly yet a thing of which Medical Spain can
be proud, although recently somewhat improved.
Returning to the city

can,
walls, observe la
BarhacanaJ the Barbi-
Arabice Bab-el-cana, the gate of the mount: the circum-
way
vallation all the
served:
to the gate of Osario
is
built of tapia, with square towers
it is
admirably pre-
and battlements,
or alamenas, which girdle Seville with a lace-like fringe.

side of
suffered
Seville
This
somewhat from the bombardment
in
July, 1843.
At
the gate of
The long
Carmona the
scene becomes more
Los Canos de Carmona, now
lines of the aqueduct,
run picturesquely up to the Cruz

April that
all
del
Campo.
is
It
here in
The next gate
To
so called because leading to the shambles.
the suburb
is
the world goes, or used to go, to behold the
Majos return from the Feria de Mairena.
Came,
alive.
San
is
la
the left
Bernardo, which must be visited; the mounds
of earth are composed of the collected heaps of Seville dustholes;
a planted walk leads to the Fundicion, the artillery
foundry erected by Charles
III.,
who employed one
Maritz, a
Swiss, to cast his cannon; once one of the finest in Europe,
now
it
is
one of the worst: power of motion
is
obtained by
mules or rude maquinas de sangre, engines of blood, not steam,
and murderous
is
the waste of animal labor.
this establishment.
Here were
Soult reorganized
cast those mortars with which
Yictor did not take Cadiz, while one of them ornaments St.
James's Park.
Soult,
before he
legacy, the foundry to be

failed.
The
fled,
ordered, as
a parting
blown up, but the mine accidentally
furnaces were then
filled
with
cannon which he could not remove;
iron,
and with those
but the amalgamated
masses were subsequently got out by the Spaniards, and remain

as evidence of his cuisine
Franchise.
The
relic is
called la
315
darker crime was
or French
Francesa,
torta
TAUROMACHIAN COLLEGE.
planned and perpetrated; a
when
powder-mill, which,
and
by
thus,
Duncan and
In
this
omelette.
was placed
flint
in the
wheel of a
set in motion, struck against a steel,
cowardly and fiendish contrivance, Colonel
this
men were blown
other
to atoms.
suburb was the celebrated Porta Cell (Cceli), founded
1450; here was printed the Bula de Crusada, so called
in
because granted by Innocent III., to keep the Spanish crusaders in fighting condition,
in
by
them eat meat
letting
Lent when they could get them.
rations
This, the bull, la Bula,
is
announced with grand ceremony every January, when a new

one
is
taken out by
science,
and
all
who wish
for the small
sum
meat with a
to eat
safe con-
The
of dos reales, sixpence.
sale of
these bulls produces about 200,000; the breaking one fast dur-
command-
ing Lent, inspires more horror than breaking any two
ments; and few genuine Spaniards can, in spite of their high

breeding, disguise the disgust with which they see Protestants
eating meat breakfasts during Lent.
them by
saying "
robbed the
till,
It
sometimes disarms
The French
Tengo mi hula para todo."
burnt the printing-presses, and converted every-
thing into a ruin.
The Parroquia
San Bernardo
de
contains a superb " Last
Judgment," by the dashing Herrera

per/
and a statue of the "Tutelar," by
Here
the matadero the slaughter-house, and
also
is
by Ferdinand VII. founded
These
localities
favorite
and
are
his
Tauromachian University.
frequented by the
of the Callum.
IS.
callos
See Pliny, 'N. H.

B.
Drink
fancy,
Seville
a sort of tripe,
classical dishes of
are here eaten in perfection.

merits
Yiejo; a "Last Sup-
by Yarela, 1622;
Montanes.
close
el
whose
y menudos,
viii.
51, as to
manzanilla wine with
these peppery condiments; they are highly provocative, and,
316
like
Salsa de
hunger, la
cooked
sunny
San Bernardo,
appropriately
The
Spanish appetite.
in the parish of this tutelar of
flats
are
under the old Moorish walls, which extend between
the gates of
Carmona and La Carne,
Barateros, and gamesters.
are the haunts of idlers,
The lower
classes of Spaniards are
constantly gambling at cards: groups are to be seen playing

all
day long
for wine, love, or coppers, in the sun, or
under their
vine-trellises.
The space near the Plaza

which
is
Carne on Sabado Santo,
de la
Monday,
equivalent to our Easter
is
where the Pas-
chal lambs are sold, or corderos de Pascua, as Easter

in
Spanish.
The
netted rope-work
bleating
animals
are
confined in pens
on every side the work of slaughter
termed
is
is
of
going
on; gipsies erect temporary shambles on this occasion; groups

of children are everywhere leading
decorated with ribbons and flowers.
away pet lambs, which

The amateur
are
will see in
them, and in their attitudes, the living originals from which

Murillo faithfully copied his St. Johns and the infant Saviour,
el
divino Pastor.
This buying and selling continues from the
Saturday until the end of Monday.
The huge mounds
of rubbish opposite, are
accumulated dungholes of
those
who have
Seville,
composed of the
and under them are buried
died of plagues, which these Immondezzaios
are enough to render endemic.
Returning to the walls are the cavalry barracks,

horses and saddles are occasionally wanting.
Now
in
which
the Alcazar
towers above the battlemented girdle of walls to the right.
The
classical gate,
San Fernando, was
built in
was that the Virgin miraculously introduced
St.
1760; here
it
Ferdinand into
Seville during the siege.
To
the
left is
the Fabrica de Tabacos. where tobacco
is
made
3H
SNUFF AND CIGAR FACTORY.
and
into snuff
The
cigars.
edifice
has twenty-eight interior
and the enormous space covers a quadrangle of 662
patios,
by 524.
It
was
by one Vandem-
built in vile taste in 1157,
beer, a fantastic
Dutchman.
destined to prevent
men
It
getting
is
in,
feet
guarded by a moat, not

but cigars being smuggled
out.
There are sometimes as many as eight thousand pairs of

hands employed
in
making
good workwoman can do

atados, each of
in
which contain
busier than their fingers,
Few
cigars,
and principally female:
a day from ten to twelve bundles,

fifty cigars;
but their tongues are
and more mischief
made than
is
cigars.
them are good-looking, yet these cigarreras are among
of
the lions of Seville, and, like the grisettes of Paris, form a class
They
of themselves.
chaste
are reputed to be
more impertinent than
they wear a particular mantilla de
tira,
which
always
is
crossed over the face and bosom, allowing the upper part only
of most roguish-looking features to peep out.
fioor a fine
rappee snuff
is
In the under-
made, called tobacco de fraile :
it is
colored with red almagra, an earth brought from the neighbor-
hood of Cartagena.
On
the
Sebastian,
plain outside the walls, called
flat
El Prado
San
de
was the Quemadero, or the burning-place of the
Inquisition: here the last act of tragedy of the auto-de-fe
performed by the
civil
power.
The spot
of fire
is
was
marked by
the foundations of a square platform on which the faggots were

piled.
Here,
taking upon
in
1180, a beata, or female saint, was burnt, for
Townsend, however,
ing,
and had a
(ii.
successful
The Spaniards
madero
the heretical
herself
are
office
of
hatching
eggs.
342,) says that she was very bewitch-
monomania
still
for seducing clergymen.
very shy of talking about the Que-
sons of burnt fathers, they dread the
fire.
Con
el
Rey
318
la Inquisition, chiton
finger
on
chiton
Hush
hush
King and
the image of Silence, with
lip, like
say they with
Inquisi-
tion.
It
is
as well, therefore, here as elsewhere, to avoid jesting or
on
criticism
matter;
this
Con
ojo
el
y la
fe,
nunca me burlare.
Spaniards, who, like Moslems, allow themselves a wide latitude

in laughing at their priests, are very touchy
connected with their creed:

heresy,
but
is
and
their
it
on every subject
a remnant of the loathing of
is
dread of a tribunal which they think sleepeth,
not dead, scotched rather than
and chances of Spain
it
never forgets nor forgives,

of the Inquisition
is
still
may
be
it will
alive,
stitution ever permits, in Spain,
In the changes
killed.
re-established,
surely revenge,
for
no king,
and,
as
and the
cortes,
it
spirit
or con-
any approach to any religious
toleration.
was the head-quarters of these bright
Seville
fires.
The
great claim put forth in 162? for the beatification of St. Fer-
dinand was, that he had carried faggots himself to burn here-
But
tics.
was then
the spirit of the age
fanatically ferocious.
Philip le Bel, a monster of cruelty and perfidy, his cousin, and
son of Saint Louis, tortured and burnt the templers by a slow

fire
The
near his royal garden.
established at Seville in 1481,
of Ferdinand,
He
revenge.
who used
assigned to
Torquemada was the

authorities,
first
was
first
by Sixtus IV., at the
fixedly
petition
as an engine of finance, police,

it
the citadel of Triana.
and
Tomas de
According to the best
first high-priest.
from 1481 to 1808, the Holy Tribunal of Spain
burnt 34,612 persons
288,109
it
holy tribunal
alive,
18,048
in
effigy,
and imprisoned
the goods and chattels of every one of
duly confiscated.
In addition to these victims
them being
it
entailed
to poor, uncommercial, indolent Spain, the expulsion of her
CATACOMB SYSTEM.
and her most industrious
wealthy Jews,
The dangerous
Moors.
was exhausted,
319
agriculturists, the
when the supply
engine,
recoiled on the nation,
and
of victims
fitted it for that
yoke, heavy and grievous, under which, for three centuries,
has done penance
the works of Llorente have fully revealed
The
the secrets of priestcraft in power.

Auto-de-fe
is
the
Madrid
lished at
and given
in
best account of an
report of Jose del Olmo, 4to.,
official
pub-
1680.
in
Near the Quemadero

vent,
it
is
San Diego, a suppressed Jesuit con-
1784 to Mr. Wetherell, who was tempted
by Spanish promises to exchange the climate of Snow

Holborn, for torrid Andalucia.
Hill,
This intelligent gentleman,
having established a tannery, and introduced steam-machinery
and workmen into Spain, was ruined by the bad
faith of the
government, which failed in both payments and promises.

property has
who
now passed by a Spanish
The
trick into other hands,
bribed the court of appeal to allow a false deed or Escri-
Mr. Wetherell
tura.
lies
those of his countrymen

in pace
On
San
buried in his garden surrounded by
who have
requiescant
the other side of the plain
adopted
the great city cemetery of
The catacomb system
allowed to enter.
is
is
Into this Romanist Necropolis no heretic,
Sebastian.
dead,
died in -Seville
a niche
is
is
here
granted for six or seven years, and the
A large
term can be renewed (prorogado) by a new payment.

grave or ditch
is
if
opened every day, into which the bodies of
the poor are cast like dogs, after being often
stripped
first
by
the sextons even of their rags.
Returning from San Sebastian to

death at the Puerto, de Xerez
flower.
The new walk was
is
Seville, the
striking
laid out
here
change from
all
by Arjona,
is
in
life
and
honor of
320
young bride
Christina, then the

is
El Salon
Of an
a raised central saloon, with stone seats around.
afternoon
the "rank and fashion" assemble to promenade
all
Beyond, along the bank of the
here.
At
Delicias,
the botanical garden.
the land side of the walk
is
the churrigueresque nautical
San Telmo, the patron
the storm
is
and
when
of Spanish sailors, as,
going to be over, he appears at the mast-head with
a lambent flame.
dies
Las
is
college of
bus,
river are
Here
charming ride and walk.
was founded by Fernando, son
It
1682 by Antonio Rodriguez.
built in
of Colum-
Here the mid-
were taught navigation from a small model of a three-decker.
The Puerta
me
Ferdinand VII.
of.
ediftcb,
de Xerez, said to be built
was
ante,)
by Hercules (Hercules
at all events rebuilt
by the
The
infidel.
Moorish walls hang over the reedy Tagarete, and once were
Up
painted in fresco.
1821 they connected the Alcazar
to
La
with the outpost tower, called

distinguish
lies
it
La
from
built of
Oro, " of gold," to
Torre de Plata, that " of silver," which
These
nearer the mint.
both being
tor re del
Moorish
names are scarcely
fine
sterling,
The former one absurdly
tapia.
who
ascribed to Julius Caesar, was raised by the Almohades,

called
Borjw d-dahab, " the tower of gold," because
it
treasure
was kept
in it
was used by Don Pedro

his mistresses.
now
el
it
is
their
only gilded by sunsets.
It
Cruel as a prison for his enemies and
The Spaniards have
built a
trumpery modern
sentry-box on the top of this Moorish tower, where their red
and yellow
flag occasionally
Passing on
is
inside are
the river-shore
is
hoisted.
Aduana
the
queer dealings, which

del Aceite
is
lies
or Custom-house, a hot-bed of
between the Postigos de Carbon and
some pretty old houses
a solitary crane,
to unload the scanty
commerce
el i?igenio,
for the artist
which now
of fallen Seville.
on
suffices
321
DRIED CODFISH.
Close by are " the Atarazanas," the Dar-san'-ah, or house
whence the Genoa term darsena,
of construction of the Moors,
and our word
by Alonso
el
The present establishment was founded
arsenal.
Sabio, and his Gotho-Latin inscription
mains imbedded
in the wall
near the Caridad.
re-
still
Observe the
blue azulejos said to be from designs by Murillo,
who painted
the glorious pictures for the interior.
Near
this
is
the
modern
provided, and never
is
or salted codfish.
article
required
the quarter of the dealers of hacalao
is
You may
nose them in the lobby."
religious corporations,
this, for
unknown,
fresh-water fish
shrivelled dried-up cod-fish
along the tierra
is
caliente or
Exposed to the scorching
the
it,
It
warm
as
it
it
sun,
when on
is
sea-fish
almost
of the Peninsula.
conveyed on muleback
much consumed
still
all
zone of Spain, Alicante being
this
is
for the south portions
salt-fish
is
anything but
a journey are cautioned not to
of
a non-digesting stomach
at all
ought to be put many hours al remojo, to soak
water, which takes out the salt and softens
In
and
only creates an insatiable thirst, to say nothing of
unavailing remorse
events
This
fast-days, necessarily
rare,
easily
is
the port for the south-east, as Seville
sweet, and our readers
and
central parameras
great
in the
into uncarriageable recesses.
eat
miserably
long formed a most important item in national food.
The numerous
The
is
worth inspection.
Adjoining the arsenal

"
which generally
arsenal,
this piscatose corner of Seville,
on the Oriental cold

flounders, whiting,
fried fish,
and small
eggs, called familiarly
irr
it.
poverty delights to feed
and especially
slices of
large
bits of hacalao fried in yolk of
Scldaos de Pavia, because yellow was
the uniform of that regiment.
Next observe
the heraldic gate, del Arena!, of the Strand,

14*

322
and a
sort of
Temple Bar
the contiguous streets have long
been inhabited by denizens of indifferent reputation
Don Quixote was educated here Certhe school of Monopodio, who in his Rinconete y
Hole-and-corner man and cut-purse," gave the
rogue of a Ventero in
vantes placed
Cordadillo,
"
The open space
idea of Fagin to Boz.
Baratillo the " little chepe,"

for the sale of
de
Toros,
which
is
Seville,
is
and
Near
also
this is the
which at least
when the
last bull dies,
unwillingly
retire
el
and place
a fine amphitheatre, although
Moorish tower as the
fez nondum lassata
called la
is
rag-fair,
marine stores or stolen goods.
the Giralda and completes the picture,
This Plaza
resort
from being a
unfinished, especially on the cathedral side,
gild the
in front
and carters
Carreteria, because here carts
Plaza
here the
still
lets in
setting sunrays
and the populace

"Gatherings.")
(see
under the superintendence of the Maestranza of
whose uniform
is
scarlet.
Leaving the Plaza we now approached

Strand, where a petty
and goods brought up
Rio, the River
carried on of fruit, mattings,
traffic is
in
el
barges
a rude boat-bridge here for
ages stemmed the Guadalquivir, and was at once inconvenient
passage and expensive in repair
in
until
11,
Yusuf abu Yacub
first
formerly
it
was a
threw across some barges, October
1111, by which the city was provisioned from the
Ajar ofe; the destruction
ferry,
of this communication
nand
led to the surrender of Seville.
been
for ages
by
fertile
St. Ferdi-
This bridge of boats has
who have
a source of profit to the commissioners,
received funds sufficient to have built one of marble
recently
a suspension-bridge has been erected, after the designs,

believe, of
we
Mr. Clark.
Next observe
el
Triunfo, a
monument common
in Spanish
towns, and raised in honor of the triumph obtained by the
:
;
CRADLE OF THE FOURTH FURY.
advocates of the Immaculate Conception
323
a statue of the Vir-
gin and local tutelars arc usually placed on the erection
Doric gate which here leads into the town

de Triana, because facing that suburb
and
is
state prison
a Newgate
it
The upper
attributed to Herrera.
is
the
called la Puerto,
was erected
story
in 1588,
was used
as a
here the Conde del Aguila, the Mae-
cenas of Seville, was murdered by the patriots, urged on by the

Catiline Tilli (see Schep.
The
plain
i.
269, and Doblado's Letters, p. 439.)
beyond was formerly
Pemeo, or the pig-market
el
during the cholera, in 1833, the unclean animals were removed

to the
meadows
behind
San
now
of the virgin patronesses Justa
Agustin, and the space
re-entering
made
by the Puerta Real the
and Rufina,
into an esplanade
circuit is concluded.
TRIANA AND ITALICA.
made on
pleasant excursion could also be
the right bank
of the Guadalquivir, crossing over the boat-bridge to the sub-
urb Triana, the Moorish Tarayanah, a name supposed to be a

corruption from Trajana Trajan having been born near
}
Italica.
It
is
Transtevere
the
of Seville,
and the
it,
at
favorite
residence of gipsies, bull-fighters, smugglers, robbers, and other
picturesque rascals
hence
it is
much
frequented by the
by fancy men and Majos, who love low company;

place to behold a funcion de gitanos, got up in
To
Gaditanian dancing, jaleos y aranas.
all
dficion,
this is the
the glory of
the right, on crossing
the bridge, are some remains of the once formidable Moorish

castle,
which was made the
first
residence of the Inquisition,
the cradle of that fourth Fury.
blushed at the
swept away
fires,
The Guadalquivir, which
and curdled with the blood shed, almost
this edifice in
1626, as
if
indignant at the crimes
TRACES OF THE ROHAN AND MOOR.
324
committed on
its
bank.
The
tribunal
was then moved to the
Calk San Marcos, and afterwards to the Alameda

ruined castle was afterwards taken down, and the
The
Vieja.
site
converted
into the present market.
The
parish church, Santa Ana, was built

of the "
1276: the image
in
altar,
and
brought out
etiquette
of
its
in public
calamities,
Sabio,
high
but as a matter of
never crosses the bridge, which would be going out
it
parochial jurisdiction.
Visit the church, Naestra Senora del
here christened with this vowel.

azwlejo
and
loza,
earthenware, are
Castilla
The
are worth notice.
gardens,
O; many females are
Great quantities of course

still
made here
The
Santas Justa and Rufina.
of
el
of the Virgin," in the
a Virgen aparecida, or a divinely revealed palladium,
is
is
Mother
by Alonso
as in the days
nara?ijales J
principal street
orange-
or
is
called de
here the soap-makers lived, whence our term Castile
soap.
Following the banks of a stream we reach the miserable

Ponce, a corruption from the
village of Santi
Geronico,
its
Gothic bishop,
Pozo, the "holy well:"

birthplace of the
was founded
by
It
it
or,
of
San
according to others, of Santo
was the once ancient
Italica, the
Emperors Trajan, Adrian, and Theodosius;
IT. C.
54 T, on the
site of
home
was adorned by Adrian with sumptuous

medals are found and offered
it
the Iberian town Sancios,
Scipio Africanus, and destined as a
Many
name
for his veterans.
edifices.
for sale to foreigners
by
the peasants, who, with a view of recommending their wares,

polish
and
them
bright,
and rub
off the precious
aerugo, the sacred rust of twice ten
The amphitheatre
ruins peep
lies
bloom, the patina
hundred years.
outside the old town.
amid the weeds and
On
the
way
olive-groves, like the grey bones
LIKE GREENWICH FAIR.
of dead giants.
The amphitheatre,
325
was used by the
in 1714,
corporation of Seville for river dikes, and for making the road
See the details of an eye-witness, " Viaje desde
to Badajoz.
Granada a Lisboa"
The form
duo. 1774, p. 70.
The
however,
The scene
yet to be traced, and the broken tiers of seats.
sad and lonely: a few gipsies usually lurk
is,
among
is
the vaults.
scramble over the broken seats of once easy access,
visitors
frightening the glittering lizards, or Lagartos, which hurry into
Behind, in a small valley, a limpid
the rustling brambles.
stream
as
once did the
it
from a
trickles
still
mob
font,
and tempts the
of Italica,
thirsty traveler,
when heated w ith games

T
of
blood.
The Feria
de Santi Ponce
the Greenwich fair of Seville:
is
then booths are erected in the ancient bed of the
becomes a scene of Majeza and their Jakes.

in
folk,
Carretas
filled
with
The holiday
return at nightfall in
finery,
Gitanas y
which
while
Corraleras,
los
majos
de la aficion (fancy) vuelven a caballo, con sus queriditas
los
Crowds
en ancas.
out
Andalucian
their
all
river,
of the better classes
and
to see this procession,
Castillo,,
which resounds with
exhibitions
of small
Cornudo paciente of
horns
sit
or used to
on chairs
requiebros,
made
come
and
in the
is
Seville; civilization, alas!
Calle de
enlivened with
type of the
the
of barro,
come
is
effacing these
nationalities; already the females are quitting their
charming
costume for bonnets a la Franqaise and Manchester cottons;

then with their dark faces, white gowns, and gaudy ribbons,
they put one in mind of May-day chimney-sweeps.
The
route
traveler
may
return from Italica to Seville
keeping under the slopes of the
the summit to the right,

the
view
is
fine
is
hills
different
opposite Seville, on
Castileja de la Cuesta,
and extensive.
by a
from whence
Here Fernan Cortes died
326
December
like
2,
Ximenez, Columbus, Gonzalo de Cordova, and others, of
He
and country's ingratitude.
his king's
San
1541, aged sixty-three, a broken-hearted victim,
was
first
buried in
Isidoro at Italica, until his bones, like those of Columbus,
after
infinite
movings and
changings of
sepulture,
reached the scene of his glories and crimes during
at
last
life.
ORANGES.
Honey, oh
oranges, honey
Who'll buy the sweet oranges
The panoramas
side
of the river
is
the
hitter
truly, " is
fine
worth riding
is
is
the opposite
city,
" Seville," says
to.
famous
for oranges
sorts of the former, the sweet
(Arabice Naranga, unde JVaranja),
marmalade
Cries,
Naranjal, or orange-grove of
a pleasant
There are two
women."
On
of Seville are charming.
the house of Beck, which
Byron, and
London
?"
made, and Dutch Curagoa
and
and the
of which Scotch
is
flavored.
The
trees begin to bear fruit about the sixth year after they are
planted,
and the quality continues to improve
twenty years, after

gets thick, and
it
for sixteen to
which the orange degenerates, the rind
becomes
unfit for the foreign market,
The
always takes the best.
trees flower in
which
March, and perfume
the air of Seville with the almost sickening odor, which retains
its
Arabic name Azahar; from the blossoms sweetmeats are
made, and delicious orange-flower water; buy
Plasa San
Vicente; nice
the
new blossom
at Aquilar's,
sweetmeats are made of them by the
nuns; to eat the orange in perfection,

until
it
appears.
it
should not be gathered
The oranges begin
to turn
yellow in October, and are then picked, as they never increase

in size after
changing
color,
they are wrapped in Catalan paper,
OLIVES AND OIL.
and packed
in chests,
32T
which contain from TOO to 1000 each,
and may be worth to the exporter from
25s. to 30s.
They
ripen
on the voyage, but the rind gets tough, and the freshness of
the newly-gathered fruit
is lost.
The
natives are very fanciful
about eating them: they do not think them good before March,
and poison
them
as
if
mas
eaten after sunset.
dulces que almibar, sweeter
"Honey, oh! oranges honey"

The
village
The venders
below the
in the street cry
than syrup,
of the Cairo chapmen.

of Alfarache being
hill
like the
exempt from
the odious Derecho de puertas, and being a pleasant walk,
frequented on holidays by the Sevillians,
who
is
love cheap drink,
Those who remember what preceded the birth of El Picaro
etc.
Guzman de Alfarache a novel so well translated by Le Sage

may rest assured that matters are not much changed. Gelves,
Gelduba, lies lower down the river. This village gives the title
of Count to the descendants of Columbus: the family sepulchre

is left
in disgraceful neglect.
EXCURSION TO AN OLIVE-PARK.
The
olives
still
The
districts
to
oil
of Baetica were celebrated in antiquity,
form a staple and increasing commodity of Andalucia.
and
are
and
among
between
Seville
and Alcala, and
in the Ajarafe,
the richest in Spain: an excursion should be
some large Hacienda,
in
made
order to examine the progress of
the culture and the manufacture, which are almost identical
with those described by Yarro, Columella, and Pliny.
For-
merly Seville was surrounded with splendid Haciendas, which
combined at once a country-house, a
village,
tory; the fiestas convites de campo, kept

tors,
were here celebrated.
and oil-manufac-
by the wealthy
The French
troops,
proprie-
by destroying
328
dealt a heavy
everything,
blow to
this prosperity
and happi-
and few of the ruined proprietors have been able to
ness,
restore their ravaged establishments.
San
Bartolome, a farm belonging' to the Paterno family,
specimen of a
fine
first-rate
Hacienda;
contains about 20,000
it
each of which will yield from two to three bushels of
trees,
whole produce averages 5000 arrobas (twenty-five
olives; the
pounds), which vary in price from two to
however
olive-tree,
classical,
very un picturesque:
is
The
five dollars.
its
ashy
on a pollarded trunk reminds one of a second-rate willow-
leaf
tree,
while
The
it
affords neither shade, shelter, nor color.
trees are usually planted in formal
from the parent in January; the end

into
is
which a stone
watered
for
two
is
years,
placed;
and
as
it
is
is
a branch
opened into four
is
cut
slits,
then planted, banked, and
grows
it
rows
pruned into four or
is
upright branches: they begin to pay the expense about the
five
tenth year, but do not attain their prime before the thirtieth.
Whole plantations were burned down by the French, while the

Duke issued strict orders forbidding it among his troops.
The berry is picked in the autumn, when it is purple-colored
and shining:
then the scene
peasant, clad in sheep-skins,
beating
wife
off
and
the
fruit,
sisters
is
is
on
up
to
and taken to the
the
trees like a satyr,
in the
drive the laden donkeys to the
mill.
The
on a circular hollowed stone, over which
moved by a mule
shoveled
is
busy and picturesque;
while his children pick them up, and his
berries are then placed
another
is
the crushed mass, horugo borujo,
round mats,
press,
el
trwjol,
capitches,
which
is
made
forced
of
esparto,
down by
very long and weighty beam, composed of six or seven pinetrees, like a ship's bowsprit, over which, in order to resist the
strain,
a heavy tower of masonry
is
built;
a score of
frails
of
329
PROCESS OF MAKING OLIVES.
the borujo
which
is
is
is
placed under the screw, moistened with hoi water,
make
apt to
the
oil
The
rancid.
liquor as
it
flows out
passed into a reservoir below; the residuum comes forth like
a damson-cheese, and
as
oil
is
used for fuel and for fattening pigs
on the water
it rises
skimmed
is
bellied earthen jars, tinajas,
and poured into
off,
and then removed into
which are sunk into the ground.
the
big-
still
larger,
These amphorae, made
chiefly
at Coria, near Seville, recall the jars of the forty thieves; some
from 200 to 300 arrobas,
will hold
i.
e.
from 800 to 1200
gallons.
The
oil, aceite
(Arabice azzait),
is
strong,
and not equal to
the purer, finer produce of Lucca, but the Spaniards, from

habit, think the Italian oil insipid.
coarse, thick,
The
second-class oils are
and green-colored, and are exported
for soap-
Candles are rare in Spain, where
making, or used for lamps.
the ancient lamp, en velon or candil (Arabice handed), prevail,
and are exactly such as are found at Pompeii.
colony; the laborers are fed by the proprietor
little
allowed bread, garlic,

they
The farm
make
into migas
salt,
is
they are
vinegar, and pi?nientos, which
oil,
and Oriental gazpacho (Arabice, soaked
bread), without which, in the burning summers, their " souls
would be dried away." (Xumbers

There are many kinds of
las
Reynas, las Padronas.
which only grow

berry
is
The
finest are
five
gathered before quite
ripe,
it is
of water,
this the olive
The middling,
las
olives: the
a circuit of
green color:
made
xi. 6.)
in
class
are called
made from
the gonial,
first
leagues round Seville: the

in order
to preserve the
pickled for six days in a Salmuera, or brine,

salt,
thyme, bay-laurel, and garlic; without
would putrefy, as
it
throws out a mould, nata.
or second classes, are called las Medianus, also
Moradas, from
their purple color; these are often
mixed
in
330
a strong pickle, and are then called Alinadas: the worst sort
are the Rebusco, Recasts, or the refuse; these, begarlicked and
bepickled,
olive
form a staple
nutritious,
is
article
The
of food for the poor.
but heating; the better classes eat them
sparingly, although a few are usually placed in saucers at their

dinners.
STEAM ON THE GUADALQUIVIR.

At
eight o'clock, while the sun
Gold, and
its
tafia form
was darkened by the shadows of the
trees planted on the banks,
ing river
barked
was gilding the Tower of
and near the spot where the wind-
skirts the pleasant public
walks of
Seville,
we em-
for Cadiz.
The smoke
of the steamer
and the worrying examination of
our baggage, dispelled the poetry and illusion of the far-famed
and much over-rated Guadalquivir of fabulous and

"Thou, Bcetes," sing the native
romance.
with flowers and
"crowned
and girdled by beauteous nymphs,
olives,
thy liquid crystal to the west, in a placid, amorous
waftest
current."
But the Andalucians seldom spare
speaking of themselves or their country

reality,
poets,
classical
is
here
as dull
words,
when
river, in
sober
fine
and the
and dirty as the Thames, and
its
" Elysian Fields " are as unpicturesque as those at Hoboken, or
the " Isle of Coney."
through an alluvial
The turbid stream slowly
level,
which
is
eats
its
way
given up to herds of cattle
and aquatic fowls; nothing could be more dreary; no white

sails
enlivened the silent waters, no villages cheered the desert
steppes; here
sun.
and there a hut
This reverain tract
swamps
fevers
is
offered refuge
called
from the noontide
La Marisma, and
and ague are perpetual.
These
fertile
in its
plains,
MIRAGE.
331
favorable to animal and vegetable
are fatal to
life,
man
the
miserable peasantry, like those on the Pontine marshes, yellow

skeletons
when compared
of summer, the mirage of the desert
On
thirsty sportsman.
Here, in the glare
to their fat kine.

is
complete, and mocks the
the left hand, in the distance, rose the
mountains of Ronda.
The Guadalquivir
is
the " great river," the Wada-1-Kebir of
the Moors, and traverses Andalucia from east to west.
Spanish
Zincali, or
We,
river.
like
also call
gipsies,
It rises in
Sen Baro, the great
it
Humboldt, suspect the proper etymology to be
the Punic Lebitsin, the lakes or

tion.
The
swamps
La Mancha. Under
of the Bceti's termina-
Moors
the
was navigable
it
to Cordova, thus forming a portavena to that district, which
overflows with
oil,
ment these advantages were

reach Seville with
The
La
islands,
cultivated
difficulty
below
river
Isla
Under the Spanish govern-
corn and wine.
this city
lost,
and now small
from the
sea.
branched
Major and Menor.
off,
The
forming two unequal
generally
up and down
At
moored
in barges,
here,
river
and
were saved.
Foreign ves-
their cargoes are
Romans
made.
still
These
tinejas
is
oil
conveyed
facilitated.
for bricks
the enormous earthenware jars in which

are
improving
Ccrtadura, by
whereby smuggling
Coria, famous under the
for
La
the navigation, and a canal was cut through
sels are
was somewhat
latter
by a company, who formed a project
which nine miles of the winding
craft alone
and
are the precise
and pottery,
olive are kept,
amphora of the
ancients.
Passing beside the deserted wastes of Algaida,

locks,
clothed with
sandy
dreary pines,
we overlooked the marisma, with

a fit home for birds and beast
sands
wild grapes,
shifting
aromatic brushwood,
its
its
hil-
and
swamps and
of prey, robbers
332
and custom-house
officers
and
Saint Lucar, celebrated for

zanilla wine, of
its
dropping down, swiftly past

delicate pale straw-color
Man-
which Andalucians and dyspeptics are so fond,
we soon ran round
the point of Cipicora, where in ancient times
the great Phoenician lighthouse indicated the entrance to the
Guadalquivir at
after
Cap Eon,
rounding the point
"Rock of the
by sea, we entered
the
Sun."
Shortly
the bay, where
" fair Cadiz, rising o'er the dark blue sea," appeared like a line
of ivory palaces.
LION AND LIE OF ANTIQUITY.
333
CADIZ.
" But Cadiz, rising on the distant
" Cadiz
beauty of
ness of
sweet Cadiz
inhabitants.
women
finest
in
Spain
witches of their land."

his
mother
in
1809
is
the
and mansions
its streets
its
It
It
is
coast,
though ignoble praise."
Calls forth a sweeter,
spot in creation.
The
only excelled by the
liveli-
first
is
a complete Cythera,
of the
full
the Cadiz belles being the Lancashire
Thus wrote Lord Byron,
and what was true then
applicable at the present day.
is
in a letter to
not a whit
less
Fair Cadiz, looking like the
newest, cleanest town in Spain, although one of the oldest in
Europe, with
its
beautiful houses on the marina,
on a gore of land stretching
its
neck out to the
and
its
sea,
location
looked to
us like an ivory barge floating at anchor in the middle of the
ocean.
guitars
Celebrated not only for
and mattings of a
lighted and paved as

to a silver dish.
sula,
some ten to
it
fanciful oriental pattern,
is
Shaped
fifty feet
pretty women, but for
its
a ham,
above the
as well
The Spanish compare
well built.
like
it is
its
it rises
sea,
it
on a rocky penin-
which
girts it around,
a narrow isthmus alone connecting the main land.

This town, the Yenice or Paris of the ancients, was the great
lie
and
lion of antiquity,
and the Gades of the Romans.
The
Gaditanae were celebrated in the satires of Jurenal, when Italy
imported the improber Gaditana, whose lascivious dances of
ori-
334
ental origin
The
exist in the
still
prosperity of
Gades
Romalis of the Andalucian
gipsies.
with that of Rome, to both of
fell
which the foundation of Constantinople dealt the
blow.
first
Destroyed by the Goth, and captured as Kadis from the Moors,
by Alonso
Sabio,
el
Urban IY.
the loss of
its
which alone can
exist
by commerce
trans-atlantic colonies has
blow was given
Spanish
been
pros-
and now
Its
its ruin.
when Cadiz was sacked by Lord

Elizabeth, who repaid the visit of the
in 1596,
Essex under the order of

invincible
was almost doubted under
The discovery of the new world revived the
perity of a place
final
existence
its
Armada
The booty
with interest.
that
of
conquest was enormous, and Spain has never fully recovered
from the bankruptcy entailed by that

Notwithstanding Cadiz
is
terrible disaster.
" the end of the world,"
small attraction to the scholar or
man
being commercial, and poverty has
damped
ple, so
are
that
still
ners.
love,
it
hardly
is
its
the gaiety of
the jocosa Gades of the past, the
offers
society
peo-
its
women
charming, and fascinate alike by their forms and man-
Now,
that
it is
rather the city of Yenus, the mother of
than of the chaste Diana, foreigners have introduced their
vices into the inland
As
of pleasure,
and
a residence,
it is
towns of temperate and decent Spain.
but a sea prison,
its
water bad, and climate
during summer detestable, being visited by the yellow fever.

It
was only by ascending the Torre
de la
Vigia, that
obtained a panorama over this smokeless, whitened

miradores azoteas,
its
city,
look-out towers and flat roofs, from
with
we
its
whence
the merchants formerly signalized the arrival of their galleons.
The
sea-ramparts, which encircle the city, extending for
more
than four miles round, are on one side of the cathedral, another
tower, the most remarkable
here the rocks rise the highest,
and the battering of the Atlantic
is
the greatest, as the waters
SWIMMING
The maintenance
gain on the land.
335
GAIT.
of these protections
Here
constant source of expense and anxiety.

gling
all
day
is
idlers set an-
for red mullet, with the proverbial patience
and
luck of fishermen, reaching their long poles over the sea walls.
Following the
the alemeda.
break-water,
lines of this
we turned towards
This charming w alk was provided with trees,

r
benches, fountain, and a miserable statue of Hercules, the foun-
der of Cadiz, and whose
grappling with two
effigy,
lions,
the city
bears for arms, with the motto, " Gadis fundator dominatorque"
Every Spanish towrn has a

pleasure of
similar public
Tomar
all classes.
joy of these southern latitudes
el
;
walk
for the
fresco, to take the
cheap
coo], is
the
and none but those who have
lived in the tropics can estimate the delights of the sea breeze
which springs up after the scorching sun has sunk beneath the
western wave.
which
is
There
no
is
fairer sight
than an evening scene
nightly to be enjoyed on the square of the
Minta at
Cadiz.
The sun and the
may have
the music and the whispering groves,
tides,
well been, and they are to-day, the marvel and admi-
ration of olden times
but this
is
the spot to study the dark
glancing descendants of those " Gaditanae,"

ancient heads than even the sun.
theme of the old

rity
they
ballads,
have retained
turned more
" Ladies of Cadiz/ 7 the

all their
have cared neither for time nor
therefore, particularly in this
El
The
who
former celeb-
tide.
Observe,
Alameda, the Gaditanian walk,
piafar, about which every one has heard so
much
it
has
been distinguished by Mrs. Romer, a competent judge, from the

" affected wriggle of the French
stride of
the English, as
charm
that
is
it
is
cated daughters of
women, and the grenadier
a graceful swimming gait."
The
natural; and in being the true unsophisti-
Eve and
nature, the Spanish
women have
336
few
As
rivals.
pas so Castellano
el
steeds of Spain, so her pace
At
of Cadiz.
is
the boast of the ambling
is
the pride of the Gaditana, or girl
the same time some very nice and
first
rate
judges have pronounced her gracia, or elegance, to be less

tinguished, menos fina, than that of the
Her
lana.
to be the
meiieo,
however,
is
more high-bred
dis-
Sevil-
considered by grave antiquarians
By
unchanged crissatura of Martial.
the way, aire
is
the term to be used in polite parlance for this undulating, serpentine action
the
word meneo
mouth
only'permissible in the
is
of a Mayo.
Barring these living objects of undeniable antiquarian and

present interest, there
to be seen on this
Thence pass to the Puerto,
Cadiz.
color,
is little else
and grouping
every variety of
fish
is
del
the spot for an
Mar, which
and
of
for costume,
will
be seen
and female, from the mantilliad Senora, to
the brisk Muchacha in her gay panuelo.

supplied,
Here
artist.
Alameda
The market
especially with the finny tribe.
is
well
The ichthyophile
should examine the curious varieties, which also struck the

naturalists
fish of
and gourmands of antiquity. (Strabo,
the storm-vexed Atlantic
is
The best
guid Mediterranean.
hi.
214.)
The
superior to that of the lan-
are the
San
Pedro, or John
Dory, our corruption from the Italian Janitore, so called because

it is
the fish which the Porter of
bute-money in
its
monete; prawns,
mouth
Bonito ;
the sole, Lenguado
the
tri-
red mullet, Sal-
Camarones ; grey mullet, Baila ; the horse-
mackerel, Cavalla; skait,

tunny,
Heaven caught with
whiting,
Raia;
scuttle-fish,
Pescadilla;
Gibia ; a sort of
gurnet,
Rubro ; hake,
Pescada, and others not to be found in English kitchens or dictionaries

ter ranks
e.
g. the Juvel, the Savalo,
among
carnero, en la
fish as
mar
el
the sheep
mero.
and the Mero, which
among
But El
lat-
animals, en la tier r a
el
dorado, the lunated gilt
DISH FOR A CARDINAL.
head, so called from
golden eyes and
its
33
tomato sauce, and lubricated with golden sherry,
The
for a cardinal.
omnivorous lower
eaten with
tints, if
is
a dish
fit
a delicacy of the
dog-fish, pintarojo, is
classes.
There are few things to be seen

This walk around the
in this garrison town, or in
Rampart, except a few good pictures of
Zurbarran in the new museo, and an unfinished work of Murillo,
who
died from the effects of a
in Spain, that little interest
its
Would
women.
its
while he was painting the
There are so few things that alter
marriage of St. Catharine.
Cadiz, however, has
fall
can be looked for in a century.
" sea-girt walls," and peculiar charms in
we
that
could say as
is
is
prehending,
man
not a
much
" Adieu,
in the country
less of
fair Cadiz
who
"I
is
capable of com-
conducting any great concern."

!
yea, a long adieu
First to be free, and last to be subdued
!"
Childe Harold, Canto

crossing the
bay of Cadiz
in
to reach the residence of
I.
a small steamer that
three times a day to the Port of Saint Mary's,
who
in
really believe
Who may forget how long thy walls have stood

When all were changing, thou alone wert true,
By
The
Every day
wanting to the body.
confirms the truth of the Duke's remark

that there
men.
for its
and vigorous arms, but, as
people, indeed, have honest hearts
the eastern fable, a head
much
85
plies
we w ere enabled
r
Mr. Campbell, the British Consul,
resided here in preference to Cadiz.
After a pleasant
chat under his hospitable roof, and a tea-drinking at his social

board, which reminded us of true
hospitable cheer,
we
English comfort and
started off for the Opera.
Gemmia
its
di
Virgy was the piece performed that evening, the actors were
excellent, the music unusally well executed
15
by the orchestra
338
and choruses
and the whole entertainment afforded us much
pleasure, excepting the fact that the hero of the stage
Moor "as black as the ace of spades." In one

near us, we were gratified to look on the faces
Spanish
girls,
was a
of the boxes
of some fair
the Misses Carrio, the nieces of Peter
Harmony,
New-York (since dead), whose sherry wines, the Amontillado and Harmony, were no less courted in Manhattan than the
of
reputation of his immense wealth.

thus reminded of America by the
It
was very agreeable to be
medium
of sherries and bright
lustrous Spanish eyes.
The
vies
Puerto,
is
one of the great towns of wine export, and
with Xeres and San Lucar in extent of
its
bodegas, or
wine-stores.
Consul Campbell was very polite to us during our stay, and
on the following morning
his
van and servant were placed at
our disposal, in order to convey us to Xeres.
road thither was
indifferent, the drive
view from the intervening ridge
was
La Buena
superb panorama of the bay of Cadiz.
Although the
pleasant,
and the
Vista embraced a
After a few hours
we
arrived at our journey's end, and, having put up at a miserable
inn in the village, set out on a visit to the remarkable objects

in the place.
Xeres, or Jeres,
termed
Sherish
Filistin
because allotted to a tribe of Philistines,

slopes,
rises
by the Moors,
amid vine-clad
studded with cottages and farm horses, with
its
white-
washed Moorish towers, blue-domed Collegiate and huge Bodegas, or wine-stores, looking like pent-houses for men-of-war at
the Navy-yard.
This straggling and
ill-built
Moorish
city,
with
a population of about 34,000, retains parts of the walls and

gates of the original old town.
The
suburbs,
more regularly
constructed, contain the houses of the wealthy wine-merchants,
SHERRIS OF FALSTAFF.
whose
hospitality
339
as generous as their wines.
is
Its
Moorish
alcazar near the public walk offers a good specimen of these
and walled
turreted
palatial palaces, while the facade of the
Church of San Miguel
is
elegant in the character of
Xeres, once renowned for
details.
brated for
majos
its
its
the rare and done-brown
finer feather
seen in
August, and
is
jokes, rather too practical.
salt,
those of
says, "
more
all
boisterous,
His repartees
are,
his jaleos (jest)
and
supposed to make these
is
and occasionally more
other Andalucians
comes of Sherris.
and
May and
Burlas de manos, burlas de Xerezanos.
quality of wine they drink
valiantes
majo
The Major Xerezano
also a great bull-fighter.
however, flavored with Ahdalwcian
The
cele-
the
glory at the much-frequented fairs of
all his
now
fancy-fellow of Seville, a descrip-
tion of a genteel loafer as old as Martial.

is
is
Gothic
but these fancy-boys are considered raw
and crude, compared with a bird of a

fino
legends,
its
ferocious,
than
" for all this valor/ as Falstaff

7
They
are great sportsmen, and the
shooting in the Marisma, especially of deer, wild-fowl, woodcocks,
is first
rate.
The growth
ally
this
of wine amounts to some 500,000 arrobas annu-
Moorish name and measure contains a quarter of a
hundred weight; thirty go to a bota or butt, of which 32,698

were made here
fine.
in 1846,
This wine was
Henry VII.
It
first
running from 8000 to 10,000 really
known
in
England about the time of
became popular under Elizabeth, when those
who, under Essex, sacked Cadiz, brought home the fashion of
good "sherris sack."

old English
tion to the
seek,
wine, and
is still
the French
sweet
sherry beyond
It
its
sec,
mafroisis.
called seco here,
is
the
a word used in contradistinc-
The Spaniards
immediate vicinity
made and drunk by
which
it is,
foreigners
scarcely
in fact,
know
a foreign
nor do Spaniards
340
like its strength,
Granada,
one glass only
generoso,"
is
The
and
worth from
when
less its
is
fifty
high price.
At
first class is
Thus, even at
Seville, in the best houses,
handed round at dinner
as the golpe medico,
called " Vino
oloroso
seco, fino,
very dear, costing half a dollar a bottle on the
Pure genuine
spot.
still
sold as a liqueur.
it is
or chasse.
and
from ten to twelve years
sherry,
old,
to eighty guineas per butt, in the bodega,
freight, insurance, duty,
and charges are added,
will
is
and
stand
the importer 100 to 130 guineas in his cellar.
A butt will run
from 108 to 112 gallons, and the duty
6d. per gallon.
Such a butt
The
and
about fifty-two dozen.
will bottle
excellence of sherry wines
scientific
owing to the extreme care
is
methods introduced by
French and Scotch.
5s.
is
foreigners,
The great houses
(whose London house
is
Buskin,
who
are chiefly
are Pedro
Billiter
Square,)
Pemartin, Gordon, Garvey, Bermudez, Beigbeder.
Domecq,
Haurie,
The house
John David Gordon, English
of Beigbeder belongs to Mr.
Yice-Consul, a gentleman whose high character, hospitality,
and wines have long won him golden
Roman
opinions.
horrea, the wine-store or apotheca,
always above ground.
The
interior
is
is,
A Bodega,
the
unlike our cellars,
deliciously cool
and sub-
dued, as the heat and glare outside are carefully excluded
here thousands of butts are piled up during the rearing and
maturing processes.
many
Sherry,
when
perfect,
different butts: the "entire"
Xerez grapes, but of many
sorts
made up from
in truth, the result of
is,
and
is
Thus
varieties of flavor.
one barrel corrects another, by addition or subtraction, until

the proposed standard aggregate
managed by
is
produced.
the Capitaz, or head man,
tanes from the Asturian mountains,
master of his nominal masters,
who
is
All this
usually a
Mon-
and often becomes the
whom
is
real
he cheats, as well as the
MADRE BUTTS OF SHERRY.
He
grower.
passes this
life
34 1
of probation in tasting
round the butts, marking each according to

recting and improving at every successive
The
jundura ought
callida
its
and
spirituosity,
durability.
he goes
character, cor-
visit.
to unite fullness of body, a nutty
and aorma, dryness, absence from
flavor
Yery
little
acidity,
brandy
is
strength,
necessary
the vivifying power of the unstinted sun of Andalucia imparting

sufficient alcohol,
which ranges from 20 to 23 per
cent, in fine
and champagnes.
Fine, pure
and only 12
sherries,
old sherry
is
in clarets
of a rich
brown
The new raw wines are
color.
paler; in order to flatter the tastes of some English, "pale

old sherry" must be had, and the color
is
chemically discharged
The
at the expense of the delicate aroma.
amontillado
called from a peculiar, bitter-almond, dry flavor,
the wines of Montilla, near Cordova
and
dear, as
is
There
vino,
is
it is
it is
somewhat
much sought
so
like
after,
used in enriching poorer and sweetish wines.
always a venerable butt that contains some Madre
or rich wine,
mother's milk.
named
is
after
visitor is just
by which young butts are reared
The contents
sip,
and heroes.
The
by way of bonne bouche.
The
The
sweet wines of the sherry grape are delicious.
Moscadel, the Padro
by
are very precious, and the barrels
Nelsons, Wellingtons, kings,
allowed a
as
Ximenez, so called from a
best are the
German
vine-
grower, and Pajarete; this term has nothing to do with the

pajaros, or birds which pick the
is
the
name
of the village where
The great Bodegas
most lucious grapes, but simply
was
it
finest
has some pictures, but his best gallery
is
all
the varieties of grape and
soil
those of P. Do-
the former gentleman

that of butts of sherry.
There the whole process of making sherry

while
made.
Xerez
are the Lions of
mecq, or John D. Gordon, are the
first
will
be explained,
are carefully described.
342
RIDE TO GIBRALTAR.
After spending two days at Xeres,
we engaged one Ramon
way
across the mountains of
as a guide to conduct us on our
Ronda
to Gibraltar.
two English
I shall never forget the courtesy of the
who accompanied me on
officers
this occasion,
cease to be grateful to the gallant Captain Dennis,

his servant at
my
disposal, causing
him to procure
suitable saddle horse for the ride, that
undertake together.
who
for
nor
placed
me
we were then about
a
to
His friend and companion, Lieutenant
Cannon, contributed no
company by
to enliven the
less
his
pleasant stories and entertaining chat, while the animals were
being saddled for our use.

hostess of the posada,
announced that
all
At
nine
we took
and shortly
after
leave of the jolly
the guide having
things were ready for a start,
of the court-yard of the inn, and
by a
the road in the direction of the
brilliant
Cartuja.
we
sallied out
moonlight took
Below Cariuja,
once very rich in excellent vineyards and possessing the celebrated breeding grounds of Andalucian horses, the Guadalete rolls
in its
onward course to the
on
banks give
its
the
it
the classic
Romans borrowed from
Moors
The golden grape which grows
sea.
name
of Chrysos,
and that which
the Greek, was changed by the
into the fair title of " the river of delight."
With our
energies fully aroused and sustained by the novelty of our journey,
we
continued to ride the whole of the night, and until ten
o'clock on the following morning,
when we reached
dated walls of Medina Sidonia.
Slowly ascending the moun-
tain on which
it
the dilapi-
stands, for our horses wearily clambered over
the rocky foot-path the side of which was lined by clumps of

cactus and rubbles of mouldy stones,
the top of the
hill,
where
this
city of
we
at length arrived at
Sidon sparkled in the
RIDE ACROSS TO TARTFA.
343
bright sunshine of the morning like an ingot of silver on a
The
nugget of gold.
painful to the eyes
sight of
and
still
brilliant limestone walls
its
more
distressing to the heart, as
mourned over the whited sepulchre which was then
We
decay.
was
were obliged to remain here
it
so full of
in order to rest our
horses and repose our limbs, which, after ten hours hard riding,
were
in rather
a straitened condition.
After an excellent
we had a
breakfast at the inn near the market-place, where
good view of the various costumes and strange

most gipsy
and
slept
set of people in
away the remainder
However humble the

gave the Ducal
whom
all
title
Spain,
aspect of this ruined town appeared,
to the descendants of
Guzman
The
Here the
mistress of the chivalrous
city
again,
Don
of Spanish
it
Leonora de
fascinating
Alonzo XI.,
fled
from the
Don
Pedro.
Pedro, in 1361, imprisoned and put to death
his ill-fated wife, Blanche,
chastity
Buen, to
was one of the
vengeance of Alonzo's widow, and her cruel son
art
el
it
the lands between the Guadalete and Guadairo, were
strongholds of the family.
Here
rooms
retired to our
of the forenoon.
granted for his defence of Tarifa.
Guzman,
we
faces of the
ballads
of Bourbon.
She
is
the
Mary
Stu-
beautiful and, like her, of suspected
her cruel execution cost Pedro his
life
and crown, as
furnished to France an ostensible reason for invading Spain,
and placing the anti-English Henry of Frastamara, on the

throne.
Shidunah
So Medinatu
by some to be the
site
of the
the city of Sidon, thought
Phoenician Asidon, although
entered as a ruin was contemplated with a feeling of romance.
Leaving Medina Sidonia, at
five o'clock in
traveled far into the night before
the afternoon,
we gained an entrance
Casavieja, which, at that hour seemed so dark
we
preferred to continue on horseback
all
we
into
and gloomy that
night, rather than to
344
lodge within the precincts of so inhospitable a looking place.
By
keeping the elevated land-mark of Medinia Sidonia, in a
southerly direction behind us, and retaining the points of the
compass
light to
we were enabled by
in our mind's eye,
manage our wanderings during the
we came near
way on
losing our
we were almost tempted
way
in the
us.
But apprehension guided
our
dark better than he
we concluded
folly,
he having
to
faithfully
we continued
it
done
during the most
difficult
we
could feel our
whom we had
hired to conduct
to judgment,
and laughing at
Ramon
have
his
own way,
duty up to that hour.
and retraced our
to wander,
sure,
of our guide,
skill
him, that
tell
best to let
his
To be
night.
several occasions during this
ramble, and once or twice so doubted the

that
the aid of star-
In
fact,
steps several times
part of our journey, but
kept on,
still
encouraging each other by talking and singing as we rode

Nevertheless,
along.
until
dawn; when,
to fatigue,
all
these efforts failed us successively
fortunately, just as
disappointment, and
we were about
despair, our guide
yielding
espied a
group of scrawny shade trees within an enclosure of scattered

rocks.
there,
Ramon
soon led us within the space discovered, and
having dismounted, we tied our horses to the branches of
the trees by their halters
we took
them on the ground
for pillows, laid
We slept
there one hour
in Spain.
so determined before
we had
and placing
off their saddles,
down
first
by our watch.
down;
lain
to our
for
bivouac
We
when
had
daylight
appeared we were rested and ready to start forward for Farifa
and a breakfast.
Soon
after
we had
arisen
we
learned from a
peasant that Fascine was the town to our right; and this infor-
mation was
sufficient to indicate the
exact position of the party.
Again we proceeded on our way, with the guide now

on the leader's back
for relief,
and
resting
after having crossed the
OLEANDER
we soon
entered a pass in the Algecisasian moun-
this point
our journey became exceedingly pleas-
plain of Fascine
From
tains.
345
SCARLET FLOWERS.
ant and interesting, the road being bounded by groves of olive
and skirting along by the
trees,
by
and
successive dips
rises
side of the
mountain ranges, led
through a valley which was redo-
lent with the scarlet flowers of the rich oleander,

in the luxuriousness of its native beauty,
growing here
and vieing with the
lovely blue of heaven, and the laughter of the mountain
give
loveliness
life,
to
and grace to one of the most beautiful scenes
south of Spain.
in the
The country now became mostly

tivated, presenting
The
sterility.
rich
to the wild plant
There
is
rill
is
lonely, unpeopled,
and uncul-
a true picture of Spanish wilderness and

soil,
under a vivifying sun,
and
insect
is
now
given up
earth and air teem with
life.
a melancholy grandeur in these solitudes where nature
busy at her mighty work of creation heedless of the absence
or presence of the larger insect man.
A mile inland
Africa,
The
711,
action
is
the lake, near which Faric, landing from
encountered Roderick, the last of the
was decided near Xeres.
Spain to the Moslem

the
civil dissensions
Goths.
This one battle gave
the secret of whose easy conquest lay in
among
obtained from the Jews,
the Goths, and the aid the invaders
who were
persecuted by the Gothic
clergy.
At
the
Yenta de
Taibilla, a picturesque
gorge studded with
fragments of former Moslem bridges and causeways, led to the

seashore.
At
the tower
La
PeJia del Cierro, Stag Rock, the
Highar Eggel of the Moors, the magnificent African coast

opened, showing
Jabalis,
its
bold outlines from Cape Spartel to
the Hill of the apes.
Our
ride thence
always in sight or within hearing of the ocean, as

15*
Mount
was almost
it
broke in
346
white caps of foam against the rocks of the Spanish shore.
After a brisk trot we arrived before the gates of TarifFa, and
Here
put up at the Posada, outside the walls.
let
us
rest
awhile for repose, and gaze on the magnificent panorama.
A SKETCH.
It
geologically
is
Hercules,
once united.
that
certain
(i. e.
cut a canal between them, as
the
two continents were
the Phoenicians,)
is
said to have
is
now contemplated
at the Isth-
mus of Panama. The Moors have a tradition that it was the

work of Alexander, and that he built a bridge across the opening
all
it
was then very narrow, and has gradually widened
until
was stopped by the high lands on each
side.
farther increase
The Moors
row sea
white
called this Strait
The length from Cape Spartel
and from Trafalgar
wind.
e.
the nar-
Europa Point
is
to Ceuta in Africa,
in Spain, is
Tarifa.
about twelve
A constant
current
from the Atlantic at the rate of two and a half miles
per hour, and

;
to
The narrowest point
leagues.
Cat
i.
the Mediterranean being termed, Aahr-el-ahiad, the
sea.
sets in
Bahr-z-zohak
hence
is
it
perceptible 150 miles
is
down
to the
Cape of the
scarcely possible to beat out in a north-west
Some have supposed
the existence of an under-current
to relieve the Mediterranean from this accession of water, in

addition to
all
the waters from the
Ebro
to the Nile.
Dr.
Halley, however, has calculated that the quantity evaporated
and licked up by the
sun,
is
greater than the supply, and
certainly the Mediterranean has receded to the east of the
Peninsula.
HEROIC SACRIFICE.
Worthy
F A.
of Froissart are the
accounts of an
eye-witness,
cannon made at Damascus, which were used
telling of the
the
ARI
84t
for
time in Europe at the bloody battle of the Salado,
first
when
the chivalrous Alonzo overthrew the united forces of the
King
of
Granada and the King
of Fez,
who made a
last
desperate attempt to re-invade and re-conquer Spain.
way
victory paved the
the
triumph of the Cross, as
Moors never recovered the blow.
Between Tarifa and the
of the Stag,
of that fearful
Tarifa, the
its castle
lies
the plain which was steeped in the blood
strife.
most Moorish town
in
Andalucia, bears for arms
on waves, with a key at the window, and the motto,
" Sed fuertes in la guerra," be gallant in fight.
was once a
in
it
frontier
key of great importance.
1292; Alonzo Perez, when
all
Like Calais,
Sancho
el
it
Bravo,
others declined, offered
The Moors beleaguered
to hold this post of danger for a year.

it,
This
for the final
Rock
took
and
aided by the Infante Juan, a traitor brother of Sancho's, to
whom
Alonzo's eldest son, aged nine, had been entrusted pre-
Juan now brought the boy under the
viously as a page.
and threatened to
Alonzo drew
prefer
retired,
his
kill
him
if
his father
dagger and threw
it
would not surrender.

down, exclaiming, "I
honor without a son, to a son with dishonor."
and the Prince caused the
A cry of
He
child to be put to death.
horror ran through the Spanish battlements.
rushed forth, beheld his son's body, and

less
walls,
Alonzo
returning to his child-
mother, calmly observed, " I feared that the Infidel had
gained the city."
The king likened him
to
Abraham, from
this
parental sacrifice, and honored him with the " canting " name,
348
"El Bueno,"
the
He
Good (Guzman, Gut Man, Good Man).
became the founder of the princely Dukes of Medina Sidonia,
now merged by marriage
in the Yillafrancas.
Quadrangular Tarifa with

is
enclosed
by
Moorish
its
narrow and tortuous
its
The Alemeda runs
walls.
town and the
southerly direction between the
slaves toil in the Alcazar, a genuine
murdered
child,
Moorish
No monument
east of the ramparts.
streets,
and
sea;
in
galley-
the
castle, lying at
marks the scene of the
but the modern tower of Guzman, and the
window from which the dagger was thrown, has been bricked
up.
The
fenas,
true
"Lions"
of Tarifa are the
women, or
whose graceful walk and piercing glances,
They continue
concealing
all
wear the mantilla
to
Next
in
still
attract.
in the Oriental fashion,
the face but one eye, but that,
rally a piercer.
las Tari-
true, is gene-
it is
danger to the tapadas, or
brilliant
eye-shots,
were the bulls which used to be
streets, to
the delight of the people at the windows, and horror
of those
who met
The crumbling
let
loose in the
the enraged animals in the streets.

walls of the city might be battered with
its
oranges, which, although the smallest, are beyond comparison
the sweetest in Spain, but defended- by brave men, they have

defied the ball
and bomb.
in the rocky island
a fortress
is
The
which projects into the

There
building.
high, visible for ten leagues,

castle
real strength of Tarifa consists
commands the
is
sea,
and on which
a good lighthouse,
135
and a small sheltered bay.
Straits under
which do not hoist
The
some circumstances, when
ships are obliged to pass within range of the batteries,

vessels
feet
colors, are at
once fired
into.
and
This
happens frequently with merchantmen, and especially those
coming from Gibraltar.
Tarifa
is
counterbalance the loss of the Rock.
destined by Spaniards to
SUPERB COAST VIEW.
The
fortress
is
being built out of a tax levied on persons
and things passing from Spain
made
lish are
to
pay
for their
into Gibraltar: thus the
own annoyance.
swarmed with gun-boats and
time,
349
Eng-
Tarifa, in
"They
privateers.
war
in-
says Southey, "greater loss on the trade of Great
flicted,"
Britain, than all the fleets of the enemy,
becalmed
in these capricious waters."
by cutting
off ships
A good frigate
steamer
at Gibraltar, in case of another war, will abate that nuisance.
The
walls are unfinished, the works destined for the building
and supplies having to pass through Algeciras; hence the
command
rals,
is
Here discontented gene-
the best thing in Spain.
and unpaid regiments, are sent to refresh themselves.
governor receives the dues, and a

while
little will
The
stick to his fingers
everybody does a handsome business in facilitating the
smuggling which they are ostensibly sent to prevent.
Before
you can examine the Castle of Guzman, or draw
is
it, it
first
necessary to obtain the permission from the governor, since the

vicinity of Gibraltar,
which has been made the hot-bed of revo-
lutionists of all kinds,
has rendered every Spanish garrison near
it,
almost as sensitive as the Phoenicians,
stranger
who
who welcomed
every
pried about the Straits by throwing him into
the sea.
Having remained
we had
fully
at the snug
and
cottage-like posada, until
recovered our strength and refreshed our horses,
we resumed our journey by
passing along a mule tract which
led over the mountains, thus leaving the
town
of Tarifa far
beneath us to the right.

This country road, as
it
may be
termed, led us to the crest
by a rugged pathway, worn out by the beaten

travel, and the ride from Tarifa to Algesiras was
of the mountain
course of
glorious, as
it
afforded us superb views along the whole line of
350
the coasts of
two Continents.
we were alternately changing

wound round the ridge in its
as every half mile
While continuing our
course,
the face of our landskips, as
and serpentine
circuitous
onward brought within our
we
turns,
sight views of
splendid effects in the wildness and sublimity of the scenery.
The wild
was worthy of Salvator Rosa, while immense
leaped,
mammouth
of
through which the Guadalmeil boiled and
forests
cork
shadowy arms
and aged
trees,
olive
to shield us from the sun.
trees,
The
forests
lent
their
accidental loss
of two horse shoes, slackened our pace, and caused us to be
detained at an inn, which crowned the last ridge of this chain

of mountains,
and
and there we caught our
first
view of Gibraltar
beautiful bay, seen through the leafy vistas,
its
and the
bleeding branches of the stripped cork-trees, fringed with a
most delicate
war loomed
del of
adrift
How
fern.
sublimely solemn that bristling cita-
though a mountain had been
forth, as
from the continent,
it
seemed connected only by a thin
ribband of sand with the mainland.

like the
British
set
The grand Rock crouches
Lion, the sentinel and master of the Medi-
terranean.
ALGECIRAS.
Towards dark we found we had advanced
ciras
here
we concluded
as far as Alge-
to pass the night, that
we might
enter Gibraltar in the morning.

Algeciras, with its
nook, and with
its
alameda and
bull-pit, lies in
a pleasant
modern rectangular, common-place appear-
ance, has risen like a phcenix, having been rebuilt in
Charles III., to be a hornet's nest for Gibraltar
now
is,
swarming with privateers
and preventive-service cutters
in war,
in peace.
1760 by
and such
it
and with coast-guards
A MOST NOTED
remnant of
It retains but a
351
SIEGE.
former importance, when,
its
being the Moor's key to Spain, the king of Spain was also king
of Algeciras.
was taken by the gallant Alonzo XI.
It
in
1344, after a siege of twenty months, in which crusaders from

all
Christendom participated.
of the age
It
was the most noticeable
siege
and forty years afterwards, Chaucer, describing a
true knight, mentions his having been at " Algecir," as in our
time one might be described as a Waterloo or a Trafalgar man.
The
chivalrous
assist
of
Edward
III. contemplated
Alonzo, a monarch after his
Alonzo give Froissart
own
coming
in person to
The
heart.
chronicles
details of the gallant behavior of the
English under the Earls of Derby and Salisbury, and the
misconduct of the French under Gaston de Foix,
selfish
who kept
moment when they were most needed.

which every one in the Spanish camp was reduced,
aloof at the critical
The want
to
gives occasion for some terrific drawing.
Moorish town and

There
is
very
and Gibraltar
whence the
fortifications.
little
inter-communication between Algeciras
the former
latter
is
watched
is
the naval and military position
and the foreigner s possession of

}
Gibraltar rankles deeply, as well
memory
of Spain
Alonzo destroyed the
it
is
may.
it
hardly yet a
fait
In the tenacious
accomple.
Here are
the head quarters of the Spanish revenue cutters, which prowl
about the bay, and often cut out smugglers even from under
the guns of the batteries.
Daring the summer, the cool stone houses of Algeciras are

infinitely better suited to the climate
than the
stuffy dwellings
on the arid rock.
The
ride or
distance thence to Gibraltar

sail.
The bay
round by land.
is
about
is
merely a pleasant hour's
five miles across
by
sea,
and ten
352
GIBRALTAR.
Quite early the next morning we rode over the coast road,
which
On
intersected
is
by the
Quadaranque and Palmones.
rivers
crossing the former, the eminence of El Rocadilla appeared,
where there
is
now
a farm, and corn grows where once was the
ancient Carteia.
At
every step in advance Spain recedes
parties of reckless
subalterns gallop over the sands on crop-tailed hacks, halloo-
ing to terriers, and cracking hunting-whips
ments,
animals, instru-
and occupations utterly unknown to
Iberia.
Then
appear red-faced slouching pedestrians in short black gaiters,
walking " into Spain," as they

yellow ones are
worn
call
where none but long and
then the nursery-maids, men, women, and
everything, vividly recall
England and the English.
and England reappears
vanishes,
it,
the frontier boundaries are
Spain
after passing the " Lines/' as
called.
The
civil
and military
establishments of Spain, everywhere rather out of elbows, are
nowhere more so than

comparisons.
bribe-taking
here,
where they provoke the most odious
The miserable hovels

officials,
who
exist
are the
lair of
hungry
of " the
Rock,"
fit
on the crumbs
one broadside from which would sweep everything from the face
of the earth.
Philip
These " Lines" were once most formidable, as
Y. erected
of ruins
here, in
1130, two superb
one was called after his tutelar
forts,
saint,
now heaps
Felipe, the
other after Santa Barbara, the patroness of Spanish artillery;
SCARECROW SENTINELS.
353
they were so strong, that when the French advanced
in the last
war, the modern Spaniards, unable even to destroy them, called

in the aid of our engineers
this
is
at least a fait accompli,
and they never ought to be allowed to be

raise
works before a
as Buonaparte's
fortress
since to
rebuilt,
a declaration of war
is
and
announced intention was to take Gibraltar,
Campbell was perfectly
Sir Colin
whom
under Colonel Harding, by
they were effectually dismantled
clearing
in
justified
them
away, even without the Spaniards' permission.
Beyond
these lines are rows of sentry boxes, which enkennel
the gaunt Spanish sentinels,
who guard
espanta lobos, or scarecrow principle.
narrow
sand called the " neutral ground," separates the
mainland
hence, seen from a distance,
The
undoubtedly once was.
mass
no
is
unfit
it
strip of
Bock from
the
it
barren, cinder-looking, sunburnt
sample of tawny Spain, while the rope-of-sand
a symbol of the disunion, long the inherent weak-
is
ness of the
unamalgamating component items of
Crossing, however, that strip, and all

into
flat
seems an island, as
connection
magic,
on the
their frontier
the
preparation,
order,
wealth, honor and power of the United
bluffly,
and
bristles
changed, as
organization,
Kingdom
the Pallas, the armed wisdom of Europe.
Gibraltar rises
is
Iberia.
with
if
by
discipline,
of Britannia,
The north
artillery: the
side of
dotted
port holes of the batteries, excavated in the rock, are called by

the Spaniards
old Cerberus.
As we
west.
way
is
il
los dientes de la
The town
is
vieja" the grinders of this stern
situated on a shelving ledge to the
approach, the defences are multiplied
carried over a
marsh
be instanteously laid under water

another
called " the inundation,"

;
every bastion
is
the cause-
which can
defended by
a ready-shotted gun stands out from each embrasure,
pregnant with death,
prospect not altogether pleasant to
354
who
the stranger,
At
hurries on for fear of an accident.
every
turn a well-appointed, well-fed sentinel indicates a watchfulness
which
We
defies surprise.
passed on through a barrack teem-
ing with soldiers' wives and children, a perfect rabbit warren
when compared
to
the
conventual
celibacy
of
Spanish
" quartel."
The inundation
a slow
we
trot,
at last found our
at " Griffith's."
The
ments
is
way
hospitality of the
perhaps, the endless dinnering
hungry and
and the draw-bridge passed on
cleverly over,
Rock
is
I put
unbounded, and,
there are generally five regi-
in garrison, the messes are
on a grand
scale.
But death
and a tendency to fever and inflammation
in the pot,
up
the greatest change from the
is
As
thirsty Spain.
into the city.
is
induced by carrying the domestics and gastronomies of cool
damp England
is
one of the
to this arid
and torrid "Rock."
strictest in
the world, and therefore a capital
This garrison
school for young officers to learn their duty: everything
the alert
sunrise,
on
the gates are shut at sunset and not opened until
and
after midnight civilians are obliged to carry a lan-
These rules do not apply to
tern.
is
reside on the
Rock without some
officers.
No
foreigner can
consul or householder becom-
ing his surety and responsible for his conduct.
These precau-
tions are absolutely necessary, as this place can never be taken
except by treason, and
many
are those who, under a species of
cordial understanding, conceal a deadly arriere pensee of hatred.
Gibraltar
is
excessively displeasing to all
French
tourists
they
abuse the red jackets, guns, nursery maids, and even the mon-
keys
ever perfidious, they say,
England.
strong,
The
and can
The bay
is
truth simply
J
is,
is
the ambitious aggression of
that this key of their lake
be taken by their
fleets
is
too
and armies.
formed by two headlands, by Eurojpa Point on
PILLARS OF HERCULES.
the Rock, and by Cahrita in Spain.

east to west,
is
miles,
five
south about eight
width from
Its greatest
greatest length from north to
its
the depth in the centre exceeds one hun-
The anchorage
dred fathoms.
355
not, however, very good,
is
and
open and much exposed, especially to the south-west
the bay
is
winds
then the vessels tug at their cables like impatient
when they do break
horses, and,
mole
offers
a sort of protection to small craft

.
the commerce that
old
notwithstanding
carried on, there are few of
is
The
loose, get stranded.
its
appliances,
quays, wharfs, docks, and warehouses, for even the English
seem paralyzed
The
in this climate of Spain.
four feet.
The Rock
and marble
about
principally of grey limestone
consists
the highest point
tide rises
is
about 1,500
feet,
the circum-
ference about seven miles, the length from north to south about
It has been uplifted at a comparatively recent epoch, as
three.
a sea-beach exists 450 feet above the water's

well
known
to the ancients, but never inhabited.
cians called
it
It
level.
was
The Phoeni-
Calpe was the European, and Abyla
Alube.
(the rock of Abel, the "lofty") the African pillar of Hercules,
the ne plus ultra land and sea marks of jealous Phoenician
monopoly: here, in the words of Ariosto, was the goal beyond
which strangers never were permitted to navigate,

pose
Cabo
ai
Cape
of
Be
Knobs.
meta que
The Spanish name
primi naviganti Ercole invitto.
de Bullones,
la
the
name what
it
is
may,
the high rocky fronts of each continent remain the two pillars
of Hercules
what they
tion in Strabo's time
Gibraltar
It
is,
as
is
Burke
connection, of
(iii.
now a
said,
originally
were was an unsettled ques-
258), and
now may be
left in
peace.
bright pearl in the Ocean Queen's crown.
"a
post of power, a post of superiority, of
commerce
one which makes us invaluable to
our friends, and dreadful to our enemies."
Its importance, as a
356
depot
for coal,
is
increased since steam navigation.
quently to the storming of Acre,

erected to meet this
new mode
new
have been
batteries
of warfare.
Sir
Subse-
John Jones was
sent out in 1840, and under his direction tremendous bastions
have been made at Europa Point, Ragged
Alameda
and near the
Staff,
while heavier guns have been mounted on the mole
Nor need it be feared that the

Boyd will ever want an imitator in
and elsewhere.
bastions and
example of
sceculos
scecw-
lorum.
Having become
home
fully at
walk to the garrison library
at Gibraltar, let us take a
and
in the city,
there, seated in
an
easy chair, with the sweet bay and African headland before us,
read through a clever description of the "Rock."

Gibraltar
is
between 15,000 and 20,000
said to contain
inhabitants, exclusive of the military.
peopled than
it
really
is,
from the number of
and Spaniards who go out at
rade, held in this half-way house
man
his
own
language.
on shore,
differences of
a motley masque-
it is
between Europe, Asia, and
appears in his
Civilization
looks more
it
sailors
The
"gun-fire.
nations and costumes are very curious
Africa, where every
In daytime
own
and speaks
dress
and barbarism
clash.
The
Cockney, newly imported in a week, per steamer from London,
is
reading this
Handbook
'
alongside of a black date-mer-
chant from the borders of the deserts of Timbuctoo, and each
and despising
staring at
his nondescript
neighbor.
It
is
Babel of languages, and nothing can be more amusing than the

market-places.
doors,
are
Of
foreigners, the Jews,
the dirtiest
the
who
Moors the
are always out of
cleanest
and
behaved: the Ronda smuggler the most picturesque.

houses, the rent of which
Wapping
principle,
is
best
The
very dear, are built on the stuffy
with a Genoese exterior
all is
brick and
MONKEY& THE OLDEST INHABITANTS.

and wood-work, cribbed and
plaster
and
curtains
this
confined,
semi- African hotbed
enemy, heat, and are
they are calculated to
Rock
and comfortable on the sea-blown

are worthy of these nut-shell houses
street, ycleped " lanes,"
Spanish
e.
g. y
Rock
they
live cool
streets
they are, except the main
Bomb-house Lane and Horse-
genuine Moro-Peninsula towns have any
Calles,
and
calls things
here by their right names.
" Main, or Waterport Street," the aorto of Gibraltar,
the antithesis of a Spanish town.
proprietors
combine
strangely
Manuel Ximenez
signs,
in fact,
The narrow
cliffs.
Lions and Britannias dan-
names of whose
gle over innumerable pot-houses, the foreign
"
the
the honesty of England scorns the exaggerations of the
streets ;
is
let in
The monkeys,
are called.
are the oldest and wisest denizens of the
The
with
filled
only for salamanders and " scorpions,"
fit
as those born on the
Few
and
on purpose to breed vermin and fever in
carpets,
barrack Lane.
357
and
lodgings
with
in the surer signs of bloated
Queen's
the
and neat
In these
liquors."
faces,
we
English.
see with sorrow
that we have passed from a land of sobriety into a den of gin
and intemperance
no
quiet,
and
no repose
Mammon
is
every thing and body

;
all is
is
in
motion
hurry and scurry, for time
the god of Gib., as the
name
is
is
there
is
money,
vulgarized,
according to the practice of abbreviators and conquerors of

" Boney."
The
entire
commerce of the Peninsula seems con-
densed into this microcosmos, where
all
creeds and nations
meet.
Gibraltar
is
a free port in the
full
extent
of the
term.
There are no custom-houses, no odious searchings of luggage;

almost everything
is
alike free to
be imported or exported.
Accordingly, the barren Rock, which in
and consumes everything,
is
itself
produces nothing
admirably supplied.
This ready-
358
money market
infuses
Spanish
the
into
life
exists
by furnishing vegetables and other
tion:
the beef, which
Barbary.
Gibraltar
and labor of
who
consump-
articles of
not a thing of Spain, comes from
is
very dear, especially house-rent, wages,
is
kinds.
all
which
vicinity,
It
is
a dull place of residence to
are neither merchants nor military.
The
climate
is
peculiarly fatal to children during early dentition; otherwise
it
those
is
healthy.
It
is,
however, extremely disagreeable during the
when a misty vapor hangs
prevalence of the easterly winds,
over the sumit of the Rock, and the nerves of
man and
beast
are affected.
The Gibraltar
about which doctors have disagreed so
fever,
much, the patients dying
most probably endemic;
want of
It
is
in the meanwhile, como chinches,
it is
circulation of air
nurtured in
and
The average
The quarantine
fed
dirt,
by
sewers at low tide.
by some autumnal atmospherical
called into fatal activity
peculiarity.
offensive
Hebrew
is
visitation
is
about every twelve years.
regulations, especially as regards ships
coming
from the Havana and Alexandria, are severe: they are under
the control of the captain of the port.
civil
hospital here, arranged in 1815
Protestants,
Roman
Catholics,
There
is
an excellent
by General Don,
and Jews have
in
their
which
wards
separate, like their creeds.
made a free port by Queen Anne; and

sooner some change is made the better, for the "Rock,"
Gibraltar was
Algeria,
people
is
of
all
nations
Here
who
expatriate
themselves for
their
revolutions are plotted against friendly
Spain; here her revenue
by
like
a refuge for destitute scamps, and the asylum of
country's good.
ticularly
the
is
defrauded by smugglers, and par-
alien cigar-makers,
active manufacture of Spain.
who
thus interfere with the only
MONKEY WITH NO
Gibraltar
cottons,
is
359
TAILS.
the grand depot for English goods, especially
which are smuggled into Spain, along the whole coast
from Cadiz to Benidorme, to the great benefit of the Spanish

authorities, placed nominally to prevent
The south
than
it
is
of Spain
is
what they encourage.
many more wares
thus supplied with
enabled to purchase, nor would any treaty of com-
merce much increase the consumption.
The "Rock,"
in religious toleration, or rather indifference, is
Here
again the antithesis of Spain.
all
creeds are free, and
all
agree in exclusive money-worship.
The
He may
and the "Guards."

to the
The
surface of the Rock, bare
seeds into
The
begin at
"Land
Port," and walk
head of the Devil's Tongue Battery.
into verdure with the spring
crags.
of course, examine the defences
military traveler will,
life;
and tawny
and autumnal
more than 400 plants
summer, starts
in
rains,
which
on these
flourish
the
call
soilless
Patridges and rabbits abound and are never shot
at.
real lions of " Gib." are the apes, los monos, for which
Solomon sent to Tarshish (1 Kings
They haunt the
x. 22).
highest points, and are active as the chamois; like delicate

dandies, they are seldom seen except
when a Levanter,
wind, affecting their nerves, drives them
These exquisites have no

is
tails,
to
rob the gardens
is
and are very harmless.
sweet roots of the Palmita
for
colonization,
not intend to denationalize the
monkeys.
who
takes
can, otherwise they live on the
them
also there
gious toleration, aud they are never molested

principle of English
There
These monkeys
called the "town-major."
when they
west end.
the
generally one, a larger and the most respectable,
the command, and
or east
ne
quieta
aborigines,
is
mover e.
reli-
is
the
We
do
but such
whether men or
360
Monsieur Bory de
speculatiag con amore on
St. Vincent,
men also came from Africa

France.
Now, as far as Spain is
"ces singes," has a notion that
into
Spain, and hence into
con-
cerned, the
monkeys are confined
The extreme end
of the
here, under the Spaniards,
to this rock.
Rock
was a chapel dedicated to
lamp of whose shrine served
de Eurojpa, the
new Protestant
la Virgen
also as a
Yenus
to mariners; thus quite supplanting the
Now
"Europa Point ;"
called
is
beacon
of the ancients.
lighthouse and batteries
have been
erected: on the road thither are some charming glens, filled
with
villas
and gardens;
albeit these pretty
savor more of the Cockney then Hercules.

is
the cool
beetling
this the
summer
is
This side
solitude
and
to the east,
a cave tunnelled by the waves: beyond
Pock cannot be
of the sea.
here
is
Marte,
in
governor, nestled under
pavilion of the
below
cliffs;
Bures
Pound
passed, as the
an
is
cliffs rise
like walls
out
entire contrast to the other: all
inaccessibility,
and Nature has reared her
own impregnable bastions: an excursion round in a boat should

be made to Catalan Bay. Returning from this extreme point,
visit St. Michael's Cave, some half way up the Rock; here
affairs of
honor of the garrison
The
settled.
used to be, frequently
interior of this extraordinary cavern
greatest advantage
this, visit
are, or
when
is
seen to
illuminated with blue lights
the Moorish water-tanks, which have offered both a
model and example to
ourselves.
The naval commissioner's
house, on this slope, long the head-quarters of jobbing,

perfection of a Mediterranean villa.
of
this
after
Calpe,
or caved mountain,
Cave," above the
flats
of Europa.
marks national character, and
Among
is
the
many
is
the
caverns
that called " Beefsteak
Nomenclature assuredly
this savors
more of Monsieur
Foy's beef-fed Briton, than of the hungry, religious Spaniard,
-THE FOLLY.
whose
artillery
"Nuns'
tank at Brewer's barracks below,
is still
called
Well."
Another morning may be given

heights:
361
ascend to the
first,
Moorish buildings
in Spain,
to visiting the galleries
castle,
which
is
and
one of the oldest
having been erected in 125 (?) by
Abu Abul
Hajez, as the Arabic inscription over the south gate
records.
The Torre Mocha,
Torre de Omenaje,
or
with shot-marks, the honorable scars of
the siege:
is
riddled
near this the
" galleries " are entered, which are tunnelled in tiers along the
north front; the gold of England has been lavished to put iron
These batteries are more a show
into the bowels of the earth.
of terror than a reality: they are too high, and soon
smoke when the cannon are

magnificent saloons, that of
St.
fired
off;
fill
with
at the extremity are
" Hall of
Lord Cornwallis and the
George," where immortal Xelson was feasted.
Yisit next "Willis' Battery;" the flats which overhang the

precipice were once called
"Rock
then ascend to the
three points; the central
and
sunset,
is
el
fired
is
Salto del Lobo, the Wolf's Leap:
gun," placed on the north of the

the " signal-post :" here, at sunrise
a gun, which, "booming slow with sullen
roar," speaks a language perfectly understood on both sides of
the Straits.
The
signal-house,
under Spanish
called el
rule,
Hacho, the torch, because here were lighted the beacons in

case of danger: near
it
is
la Sliletta, the little chair, to
formerly a narrow path led from Catalan Bay:

stroyed to prevent surprises,
as
retaken by a party of Spaniards,
it
which
was de-
Gibraltar was once nearly
who
crept up
during the
night by this Senda del Pastor ; they failed from being un-
supported by their friends at the Lines,

the
moment
of danger;
who never
arrived at
and when the English scaled the
the assailants were unprovided even with ammunition.

16
hill,
The
362
Rock
south point of the
called O'Hara's Tower, or Folly,
is
having been built by that intelligent
movements
of the Spanish fleet at Cadiz;
wards struck by lightning, which completed

This view
magnificent;
is
it
is
to
officer,
it
watch the
was soon
after-
its inutility.
indeed the sentinel watch-
tower of the Mediterranean, the battle-sea of Europe, to
whose shores must
Johnson
says,
be the
first
object of
Descending zig-zag, admirably engineered roads,
travel.
the
ever, as
work
chiefly
of General Boyd, the views are delicious, while the
browsing wild goats form foregrounds
The sandy
strip,
for
fit
Claude Lorraine.
or neutral ground, has a cricket-ground and a
race-course, cosas de Inglctarra
ancient barbican,
Xone
visit
passing the Devil's Tower, an
an approach to Catalan Bay.
is
should omit to cross the Straits, and just set foot on
Africa; the contrast not
less striking
The excursion
to Calais.
into
than passing from Dover
Barbary
is
both easy and
in-
teresting.
The partridge shooting and wild-boar hunting, near
Tetuan are
excellent.
There
is
no danger or
The Spaniards
trip.
difficulty in
this
interesting African
despise the Moors: being utterly ignorant
of their real condition, they fancy Tetuan to be a wilderness of
monkeys; hence the proverb, Sefue a Tetuan para pillar monos.
The
old leaven of mutual hatred and ignorance remains,
there
is
no love
lost
on either
Having spent three
and
side.
entire clays at the
Rock, our time was
engrossed between the polite attentions of Captain Dennis and
Lieutenant Cannon.
engineers
We
dined alternately at the artillery and
the mess always
affording a better dinner and
agreeable society than the " Inn."

attention was bestowed upon us
more
During our stay every
by these agreeable officers,

whose conduct, throughout the whole period that I was with
EPIC POETRY IN STEAMSHIP.
363
them, was, towards me, rather that of brothers than stran-
On
gers.
the afternoon of the third day I took a boat from
and crossed over to the steamer which was
the sea-landing,
anchored on the other side of the bay near Algeciras.

vessel
was of the
tised to sail
We
line of the regular packets,
the port of Gibraltar about sunset, and the course of
left
long as the twilight lasted.
visible as
sight at night, to
;
and
watch the
as the light winds
the wreck of
lies
The magnificent
the government steamship Missouri.
ship
and had adver-
from Gibraltar to Malaga on the same evening.
the steamer was nearly over the spot where
was
This
sea coast
was a
It
brilliant
from the deck of the flying
stars
blew the plumes of violet-colored
flames from the smoke pipes of the " Gaditana," they seemed
like
tongues of
plowing
its
fire
mouth
issuing from the
way through
of a sea dragon,
Oh, Heaven
the deep.
it is
a splen-
did sight to feel the presence of Divinity upon the face of the
when
waters,
no thought
no pulse
the stars shine with
fills
is felt
all their constellations,
and
that solitude but the glory of His Majesty, and
own
but the throbs of your
heart and the heav-
ings of mighty engines.
Who
hath not thought, then, of God's great power in the
steam engine
the
sea Leviathan?
We
can never read Job
without feeling the force of the sublime analogy of the

chapter, from the fourteenth to the twenty-second
he maketh the deep to boil

a pot of ointment.
He
like
a pot
forty-first
For
verily
he maketh the sea
maketh a path to shine
after
him
like
one
would think the deep to be hoary.
At
one o'clock I retired to
rest,
fully inspired
with the
beauty of that splendid night, and in our dreams we enjoyed

visions only of the oleander fringed
mountain streams, those
"gentle rivers with willowed shore " of Percy, which would have
364
been torrents and rocky barriers, had we taken the land route,
and passed by the rocky bridle-path over the sandy
trochas
of Serrania.
There was a memory also of the fetid waters of the Hedionda
on the
to the nose
and
which we had escaped
coast,
and
a hygeian spring
offensive
palate, but pleasant to the stomach; the smell
taste of which, according to local legends,
were attributed
to the farewell sighs of a water-devil, who, on being expelled
by Santiago, evaporated,
like
a dying attorney, with a
sul-
phurous twang.
On
that night, there were also some sad recollections in the
ballads of Spain about the

river
"Rio Verde," on the banks of which
Alonzo de Aguilar, with the flower of the Andalucian
was waylaid and murdered by the
chivalry,
El Feri of
cruel
Their unburied bones bleaching the plain,
Benastapar.
or
bodies left as a prey to the vulture, might have harrowed our
minds or disturbed our slumbers, had we not recollected that

the Iberians believed that the souls of those whose bodies
were thus exposed were transported at once to heaven.
Nor
name
did Marbella's pretty town and pretty
sight, in
consequence of this sea
transit, rising
and gardens, backed by the verdant

Isabella
Marbella
is
said
is frail
hills
have exclaimed,
to
and
fair,
"
delight our
amidst
its
groves
of the Sierra Blanca,
Que mar tan
and, like Potiphar's wife,
is
bella /"
said to
steal raiment.
" Marbella
es bella, no entres en
Quien entra con capa, sale sin
U Marbella
Who
Here
is
ella;
pretty, don't enter in there
ella."
comes with a coat on, will part with
Caesar,
March
It,
it
there."
47 a.c, defeated the sons of Pom-
LAST OF BATTLES."
pey:
a
this,
the "last of battles/
and gave the world
rival,
Lucan, 'Phar.'
to one master (Floras,
The
four days (Suet, in Yit. 56.)
conveyed both to
actual
his
(Hirt.
arrival
H.'
the gods had
made
He makes
Austerlitz.
the number of the
and the bright
of the
The
cast.
victory, wavered,
ii.
a friend
of
which shone
sun,
which the conqueror con-
silence
to
for
came over the

the hazard
a moment despaired
(Suet, in Yit. 36.)

off his
He
flung himself
helmet that he might be known
804): the day was won, not by the
but by the general.
(Yell. Pat.
ii.
55.)
soldiers,
The conqueror then
remarked that previously he had always fought

but then for his very
brighten
with fourteen years of
flushed
and Caesar himself
and cast
(App. 'B. G!
his
of Caesar, which used
veterans,
from
his horse,
enemy by
who knew how important was
suicide.
coming was
a day for triumph, like Le Soleil
it
was overcast; a
and meditated
for
victory,
30,000 of the enemy were
life.
slain,
and a rampart of dead bodies was raised around Munda,
want of gabions. (App.
loc.
cit.)
Caesar then
forest for palisadoes, leaving a single
and record of
We
82;
in twenty-
the best of the event, and enumerates
The countenance
contending armies,
iv. 2,
the prisoners, and the captured stand-
slain,
at the trumpet-sound,
Hirtius,
29.)
ards, but Florus gives those details
cealed.
his
'B.
out as
news of
first
troops and to the
describes the plain,
if
Rome
own
Caesar's,
the conquerer without
left
Caesar arrived from
40.)
i.
365
cut
for
down a
palm standing, an omen
victory.
made up
for the loss of these interesting localities
the coast, by a fine

following morning
sail
on
throughout the night, and on the
gladly hailed the salubrious shores of the
approaching Malaga.
366
MALAGA.
Well may
the poet sing-
" Malaga
La
la hechicera,
del eternal primavera.
La que bana
dulce
el
mar
Entre jasmin y azahar.'*

" Malaga, the healing,
Ever spring
is
thy clime
The sea bathes thee, stealing
Through jessmin and
Those whose lungs are affected
Malaga
quite
lime.'
will
find
the
superior to any place in Italy or Spain.
unknown here
open to the south and the
sheltered from the north and east
the climate
is
almost tropical,
Winter
In summer
cotton plants, and
the sugar-cane thrive here, and the Xermes cochenilla
on the Cactus opuntea
is
sea, the city is
by the mountains.
coffee, cocoa,
climate of
is
reared
in the botanical gardens.
Malaga, the chief port of Granada,
is
admirable in
its
posi-
tion on the Guadalmedina, or " river of the city," which divides

it
from the suburbs of the Penchal (from the Perch of the
fishermen")
name
of
its
and
La
own,
torrent in winter.
is
Trinidad.
This
river,
which never had a
a mere brook in summer, but a devastating
At
once the bane and antidote of the
city,
the deposits block up the harbor, while, like a Hercules,

cleanses
away the accumulations
tants are strangely indifferent.
of
filth,
it
to which the inhabi-
ALEMEDA WITH FLOWERS.
Like Cadiz,
shown
in the
its
antiquity
361
immemorial, and the judgment
is
Malaga,
selection of the site of Phoenician
is
evidenced by a commercial existence and prosperity of 3000

years.
Malakah was a
city,
heart, that Basis describes
much
so
after the
as a paradise
it
on earth.
Being a purely commercial town, and

packing and sw eet wine,
r
except
its
it
has
little
Moor's own
its
business raisin-
to interest the stranger
views from the noble old Moorish castle on the "
of the Pharos,"
hill
and the Church of Santiago, the facade of
which stands between two towers
one incomplete, and the
other drawn out like a telescope, with a pepper-box dome.
The Alemeda,
or Public
look, the houses built
Here you may
Walk,
around
delicious,
is
it
being the best in Malaga.
see the Malaguenas,
The walk
very bewitching.
is full
having an Italian
who
are
of flowers
halaquenas,
and water.
The
figures,
somewhat too
at Genoa,
and given by
marble fountain, with groups of female

undressed for Spanish propriety, was
muy
that republic to Charles V.
On
the beach below the
San Andres,
Torrijos
shot by Moreno,
Carmen convent,
and some
December
fifty
in the
Playas de
of his confederates were
11, 1831, as rebels
and
traitors;
now, in the changes and chances of Spain, they are honored as

martyrs of liberty, and an obelisk has recently been erected in
a plaza, with their names and laurel crowns.
death without even the form of
a matter of course, the
just the
affair
trial.
They were put
to
This being in Spain quite
created
little
sensation beyond
immediate neighborhood, and would forthwith have
been forgotten among other treacheries, bloodsheddings, and

Gosas de Espana, had not an Englishman, Mr. Boyd, suffered
among them, w hich was taken up by the London press,

who reasoned remarkably well, barring the slight mistake of
T
S68
confounding Spanish law with English
his
was the
first
body
new Protestant burial-ground. The man of

Moreno, who began his career at the massacres of the
interred in the
blood,
French
lured Torrijos into the trap, cor-
in "Valencia, 1808,
responding with him under the name of Viriatus, and pretending also to be discontented
rewarded by being made Captain-
General of Granada by Ferdinand VII., he was disgraced by

Christina in 1832,
He
party.
by
she wished to
Kec
Urdax
Maroto
is
no law more
since the death of
by
just,
their
than that the inven-
own
invention.
Ferdinand VII., has been won-
changed and improved
it
is
now
a most flourishing
seaport, trading with every quarter of the globe,
and
is
adding
more
to the rich and certain produce of a bountiful nature the
doubtful wares of art.

iron-foundries,
The
at
lex est justior ulla, quarn necis artifices arte
tors of death should first perish
derfully
for herself a liberal
after the traitorous convention of
There
perire sua.
Malaga,
make
then became a Carlist, and was murdered at
his soldiers,
Vergara.
when
It
mining and factory
is
soap, fabrics,
chief impulse
mad
and cotton-mills are
was given by a
just
fast rising.
millionaire speculator
Manuel Augustin Heredia, who died August
14, 1846,
at the safe arrival of a richly-freighted argosy
the
now
tall
named
from joy
smoking
chimneys, transported from Manchester, look odd under this
The
azure sky.
wealth
lies in
fear
is
that the
Malagenians, whose true
the fruits of the earth's surface,
may
waste their
industry in pursuit of shadows.
There
is
terra-cotta
which
is
an art engaged
in at this port, of
making painted
images of majos, contrabandists, and local costumes,
peculiar.
Jose Cubero seems to have succeeded to the reputation of
Leon, who was quite an
artist in
the business, having
left
MALAGA CLAY FIGURES.
behind him no superior

images
little
easily
in clay, so
3$9
the manipulation of these pretty
in
very pliable in the native
soil
but not
broken when baked.
WINES AND FRUITS.

Wine and
fruit are the real staples,
The
not lead and iron.
sweet Muscatel wines are well known; they are the "mountains " of our ancestors,
and grow
which slope down to the
heights
Las Lagrimas, like
for leagues
The
sea.
on the vine-clad
richest are called
the Lachrymce Christi of Xaples, and are the
The
ruby tears which drop from the grape without pressure.
making the dry wines was
named Murphy
than the
vile
they are
San Lucar
first
introduced by an Englishman
much more
agreeable and wholesome
A butt
stuff.
is
worth <10.
About
40,000 are made, of which 30,000 are sent to America and
England,
exports are
and
raisins
are used,
down
jars,
pale
orange-peel for
oil, figs,
for the latter the
is
hills
are one vineyard
exported to England in
amphorae seen at Pompeii
in the exact
(vii.
Sam. xxv. 18
20.)
The
raisins, so
xxx. 12,) were
Phoenicians, and after a lapse of
the finest in Spain.
The other
Muscatel and Uva iarga grapes
The green grape
Ollares of Martial,
sherry."
making curacoa, almonds,
and these Bacchus-beloved
to Adra.
tine, (1
" genuine
and sold as
first
these are the
common in Palesmade here by the
many thousand
years are
million boxes are annually exported
those anxious to see the process
may
visit
the store of Mr.
Clements, one of the greatest of the merchants in this
They
are prepared
by cutting the
letting the grape dry in the sun.

catels,"
still
stalk partly through,
The
finest are the
and the next the " Blooms;" these are cured

16
"
line.
and
Mus-
in the
370
same way, being only
The commoner
varieties of grapes.
are called Lezias, from being dipped in a ley
The
vine-tendrils.
uvae" (Mart.
late grapes,
of.
burnt
quae de tardis servantur vitibus
44), are, as in Martial's time,
i.
made
sorts
hung up
in fes-
toons in the cottages of the peasants, and thence are called
The Spaniards have
Colgaderas.
Roman
99).
Uva passa
name, Pasa.
The vineyards
in the
when the grapes begin
unchanged
(Plaut. 'Pceii.'
pensilis
wine-making
seldom enclosed with any fence

passer-by
also preserved the
districts of
they are
2,
i.
Spain are
open to the
left
to ripen, in those fields near
a roadside, temporary sheds and awnings are run up, or huts

built with reeds
is
placed,
who
and boughs,
in
which the Vinadero, a watchman,
creeps in and out with his gun.
Job
Oriental " Booths which the keeper maketh,"
"lodges in a garden of cucumbers," Isaiah

rushes out like a fierce dog at
all
who
i.
These are the

xxvii. 18
8.
The guard
pick and steal, and
is
subject of vast abuse from the baffled wayfaring Spaniards,
swear that the grapes are sour, and he
is
the
the
who
a puniatero; nor
is
the guardian slow in returning his cornudos and other ancient
and
compliments
classical
but Ninas y vinos son malas de
guardar ; y miedo guar da la vina, y no el vinadero. Another

fruit abounds at Malaga, the Batata, or sweet potato, the Convolvulus Batastas of Linnaeus, which
S.
Americas
it
is
was introduced from the
used as a sweetmeat, and
is
sold ready
boiled in the streets.
About seven leagues
north-east of
mineral baths of Carratraca.

of the temperature of 14
and abundant.
They
September
The
20.
are
They
Malaga
are the celebrated
are sulphuretted hydrogen
Reaumur the source is constant

much frequented from June 20 to
;
large tanks, allercas, in which the patients
feathe, p,re, as usual, in
a neglected and dilapidated condition.
RAMON, THE GUIDE.
Near
this place
and Hardales
ing spars of which,
if
visited
371
a singular cavern, the
is
by
glitter-
produce a magic
torch-light,
effect.
The want of a
fine
sea-view was greatly
magnificent Hotel of the Alemeda, where
with fresh oranges and
fruits,
by us at the
felt
English comforts,
can be enjoyed under an Andalu-
cian climate.
Being somewhat pressed
and not wishing to leave
for time,
Andalucia without seeing the wonders of the Alhambra,
new
were compelled to quit the society of the
Inn, w^hich
we
was
then occupied by an American invalid, Mr. K. of Albany, the
American Consul from Tangiers, and a

ted Powers, the actor, and to
We were
Ramon, a
make a
relative of the lamen-
start for
Granada.
not long in making a contract with one Manuel
capital specimen of a guide
who proved
that was recommended, a fat and pleasant fellow,
ways
all
the better
and
of prohis
knowing the country and
its
and bota
well.
At
FOR GRANADA.
half past three o'clock on the following morning,
appeared at the gate with
In a few moments we both
and a well
his horses
sallied out
no other
galaxy of
stars shining over
city,
rode out to the
our heads.
passed the quays, and were wending our

protecting
basket.
lights to guide our feet but the
shipping-port, with
brilliant
filled
Ramon
from the court-yard, and
passing through the main street of the
cliffs
full
all
whereby
verbs, with a decided turn for the olla
master fared
to be
Malaga from the
east;
way round
We
had
the high
and having reached that
point of the road where the Atalaya tower frowns over the sea,
TRACES OF TRE ROMAN AND MOOR.
372
to the right of the vine-clad mountain,
when we were
from our reverie by the salute of the coast
Quien va
who
goes there
fellow-countryman
Spana
sentinal,
Que
pais
startled
who shouted
Paesano, a
This salutation having been fully answered
we were allowed to go on, which we did at a jogging trot, Ramon always preceding with the sumpter horse, carrying the
alforjas,
that were
hung
up and down against
across the saddle, and kept bouncing
shanks making the
his
resound with
air
the tinkling canisters they contained.
Continuing our
Ramon would
ride,
only stop his horse to
by the way-side, where he would get
alight at a small booth
a glass of aquadiente, or native brandy, and handing one to

me, would say, " Senor,
morning."
ing was
was very
It
still
it is
dark, the
good
refreshing, I assure
dawn not having
you
The morn-
we
yet appeared,
scarcely distinguish the stones lying in our pathway,
early that
we
make
could barely
gloomy
for the chills, this
it
could
was
so
out the glimmer of the sea, for
our road continued for a long while beside the sea shore, occasionally,
however,
it
branched
from the water
off
passed over some of the prominent

margin.
cliffs
>
and
line
that abutted on
its
"We passed large droves of mules laden with boxes
of raisins, on their
way
guided his leader on
to Malaga,
foot,
we were
and while each muleteer,

accosted severally by each
party with the ordinary salutation of " Que vaya Yd. con Dios."
God
bless
you
while our ears were greeted by an occasional
snatch of a song, as the muleteers varied the tone of their

voices from the musical strain they were singing, to the harsher
screams of arrah
and sa
they uttered to the animals.
two weary leagues we rode along most of the time

the beach, until at length
we
For
in sight of
struck off from the sea, taking a
northerly direction in-land, soon reached the region of the sugar-
CHARMING COAST RIDE.
cane,
where the melancholy palm trees bend under the
of perpetual spring,
when
face of the country
and
of undulating
hills
and
we came
Shortly
ences of the strong levant.
lesser
3T3
influ-
into the realms
the returning day-light gladdened the
lent varied views to the swelling forms

sierras of elevated
mountains in the fore-gound.
beauty endorsed the
All along the path
we
could overlook the distant watch-towers that stood in picturesque array along the sea shore, having a station for the guards
that inhabited them, while they gave us a note of the distance
we had gained
and when the sun arose
in majesty over the
tops of the snow clad mountains in the back-ground, gently
spreading
its
beams over the whole surface of the
glorious effects instilled
new
beauties in the landscape, and pro-
Farm-houses began to be
claimed the advent of the morn.

seen,
district, its
and groups of peasants gathered by the roadside, occa-
sionally a carbinero
would trudge along, or a smuggler cross our
path, in the rich domains of the grape-bearing
Beyond
hills.
the ranges of delightful vegOs or happy valleys at the foot of

the rocky barriers enternal
delicious at the spot
summer
reigns,
where Yelez Malaga
and the climate
rises
eminence, in the Bubito, where Flora and
over
its
Pomona
is
gentle
join in
bringing gifts for man's enjoyment.
VELEZ MALAGA.
It
was the busy season
of the raisin crop, the time of buying
and the highway was lined with gangs of muleteers

driving the laden donkeys, and hurrying the produce to the
merchant. It is in the heart of a land "flowing with milk and
raisins,
honey, or
oil
and wine."
Here
is
the palm, without the desert,
the sugar-cane without the slave.
The
spires
and convents
374
cluster
rise
round the ruins of a rock-built Moorish
Above
castle.
the lordly barren mountains of Tejada which look coldly
down on
The water-courses which
the industry of the plain.
have peeled the

leys of Yelez,
and
sierras deposit the soil,
detritus in the* val-
and the combination of moisture under a
The
sun produce the batata, indigo and sugar-cane.
tropical
latter
was
brought here from Sicily by the Carthaginians.
Yelez Malaga perched on

ruins
and antiquated
its
lofty hill with its old castle in
edifices clustering
around
it
on the bunch, was taken from the Moors by Ferdinand

lico in person,
who
himself killed a
was so pleased that he gave the

on horseback, spearing an
Malaga was
Velez
Mahy
friend of
("mas
man
den"
de
arms
city for its
and of
Valencia
Spaniards,
mastered
its
Duke
practice,
battles,
life
He
was
as a lecturer
the poor pedant, learned
and to
his "
ignorance in
ascribed his last feat, the loss of
but his defeats never made him. unpopular with
who admired
and patrictisimo,
holismo
figure
Maldonado) than any
history, Spanish included.
on the art of war
his profession," the
own
opposed to the Duke and
all
the son of a rebel Irish shop-keeper, and began
in theory, never
which he
he was the loser of more pitched
modern
in a military school
his
Cato-
the birth-place of Joaquin Blake, the
says his worthy eulogist
in ancient or
here, with
el
infidel.
Ballesteros,
the British alliance
Moor
grapes
like
his courage,
and
still
in preferring being
rather than permitting better
men because
more
routed
his
Espa-
himself
foreigners to lead
Spaniards to victory.
This "child in the art of war," was no relation of Robert
Blake, the great admiral of Cromwell,
who
at the age of fifty
passed from the army into naval command, and always was
torious
he was
the.
vic-
master and terror of the Mediterranean
PROCESS OF DRYING GRAPES.
He,
summoned
in 1654,
him a
the viceroy of
3*7 5
Malaga
whose instigation the mob had
priest at
to surrender to
risen
The governor
English sailors during a religious pageant.
trembled and complied.
Blake received the
upon some
culprit,
who
ex-
pected death, with great kindness, and sent him back with a
message that he would prevent

" but that
future,
misbehavior for the
his sailors'
no one should presume to punish Englishmen
except himself."
Kot
from
far
we had
this point
cess of drying grapes,
grapes are spread
occasion to observe the pro-
the manufacture
in
The
of raisins.
out on paseros or long wooden boxes or
trays exposed to the south, which are covered at night in order

to prevent
effects
ill
from the night dews.
which are common
plains
" Vegas,"
lie
in this
The
rich alluvial
neighborhood are termed
snugly on the bosom of their mountains' embrace,
where a luxuriant vegetation obtains throughout the whole

year.
Here we baited the
At
of the day.
The
animals, and remained during the heat
half past
two we passed on toward Yinuela.
two leagues to Yifiuela was of uninterrupted
ride of
pleasure and beauty, passing through a region of tropical

tility
with a nature as verdurous and fruity as any on earth;
position
to this
amid
home
its
own rugged
of Flora
chains nature
is
its
rocks lent an aspect of sublimity
and Pomana.
After passing the ruined
Zalea, the mountains became steep and barren.

sterile
fer-
Amid
these
ever grand, and the noTrie profiles of the
Tejada and Spajarra are ever in view.
The sun went down
we were clambering over the gloomy and basaltic ruggedness of these sierra, and we had to grope the rest of our way
over the mountains, until we reached the narrow gorge of the
while
Alhama
chain.
It
was
fully nine
before
Ramon knocked
at
376
the Casa de
los Caballeros,
a private house for the accommo-
dation of his friends, with clean rooms, but an empty larder.
ALHAMA
The number
of the baths which existed at the times of the
Romans and Moors gave
cleanly
Al-Hamman Alhama.
Alpine
hills,
its
this diminutive of
rise to
This town
the
is
Konda
perched on the edge of an awful rent in the
districts,
round which the river Marchan sweeps.
own
sea.
sierra, in
It
which the Tejada
rises
It
backed by
is
8,000 feet above the
was the land-key of Granada, and
its
romantic capture
by the Moors of Cadiz spread consternation
into the
and paved the way
Granada.
The well-known
Alhama
!"
"
Alas
for the final conquest of
The
its
traveler
over the
tujo,
commencing,
plaintive ballad,
for
my Alhama
baths
may
!"
now
it is
Alhambra,
"Ay!
de mi
expressed the national
In the Moorish period
lamentation of the Moors.

frequented for
of these
it
was much
a picture of decay.
look at the Aqueduct on the Plaza, peep
pass on to the church, with
its
single tower,
and
thence under an archway by the miserable prison, from whose

lofty grated
whose eye
oppression
windows the stranger
is
:
is
howled at by wretches
famine, and on whose countenance
they
let
down by long
staircase
many
and
files,
false keys,
Passing the arch at the head of a
which leads into the church
house in which
duced
for escape.
guilt
strings baskets to receive
rare donations of food, alms, and occasionally
and implements
is
in
is
a most
picturesque
varieties of architectural style are intro-
in juxtaposition.
There are the Gothic windows of the
fifteenth century, the peculiar " ball "
ornament so frequent
in
Toledo; there are the projecting ornaments such as occur at
MINERAL SPRINGS.
BATHS
377
Salamanca and Guadalajara, with an Arragonese character

of solidity,
combined
all
in this single facade;
many
of the
Alhama are casas solares, or the family mansions

granted to those who assisted at the conquest. The stone of
which they are built is much corroded. The armorial bearhouses of
ings over the portals contrast with the misery in-doors, pride
The population
coupled with poverty.
La Maucha,
that of
clad in brown, like
is
gay Andaluz Majo has
for the
disap-
peared.
The view
Below
striking.
ravines
of the
tajo
The whole scene
pinnacles.
painter; on the ledges of the beetling
tage at
and cascades.
its fair-time,
The road
to
made
September
river,
Alhama
is
seen to best advan-
8.
Continuing
and passing a picturesque
out
common
of a
to
dip in the
warm
hills,
in
Daubeny; considered
They
are
strongly im-
el
Bano
de la
to be beneficial for dyspepsia
the Pantheon at
Reyna
circular,
el
Bano
heat and strength of the waters, as

well preserved
is
new bath
it
like
and
its
is
probably was
from the
nearer their source,
and very picturesque, with
spiry clouds of steam.
it
fuerte, so called
it
The bath
to the sky,
Romans, by whom
The Moorish bath
and rheu-
with a dome over
Rome, a round opening
quite in the style of the

erected.
is
by Dr.
ascertained
first
matism, they are frequented in spring and autumn.

called
the
that sort of position so
volcanic springs.
pregnated with nitrogen gas, as was
mill, to
The waters
at a short distance, are the mineral baths.
issue
for the
are picturesque
Granada descends from Alhama.
up the bed of the

left,
cliffs
is
and hanging gardens, while below
houses, with trellised vines

boil water-mills
is
Marchan, winding through
tears the foaming
and rocky
San Diego
from the convent de
is
emerald pool and
for one person has recently
378
been constructed
into
it;
a parallelogram form, with steps to descend
placed between the two older ones.
it is
The road
in
to
Granada
carried us over the Sierras of
and by a deep gorge descending to the

is
placed at the bottom of a funnel.
we
Alhama,
village of Cacin,
From
which
this point ascending,
we reached the
La Mala. About two
crossed over a wild and sterile district, until
Vent a dc
Huelma and
miles further on
it
salt-works of
enters the
Yega
of
Granada, which
is
spread out like a green carpet before the towering Sierra
Nevada, now seen
in
past glories of the
Alhama
the
first
Alpine majesty.
all its
flitted
Yisions of the
before the inind's eye, at
sight of this interesting town, while
we
crossed over
the threshold of the mountain-pass from which Boabdil gave

his
last
lingering
remembered
last sigh
fires
look
as the "
at
plain,
home
of his fathers, a
Ultimo Suspiro de
of the Moors."
on the
the
The hot sun
los
Moros."
of noon spent
spot
"
The
all its
and we rode rapidly into Granada, eager
to enjoy the beauties
of that enchanted land, for there
fascination in the classic
name
of
Alhambra.
is
PEARLS SET iy EMERALD.
379
GRANADA
" Quien no ha
a Gra?iaa,
visto
JVo ha visto a naa."
Certainly art and nature have combined to render Granada,

with
its
Alps, plain, and Alhambra, one of those places which
realize all previous conceptions.
The town
on the spur of the mountains which
built
is
to the north-east to
in
Asia Minor,
The
has
it
its
Olympus,
and
this
Yega
valley,
and
about 2445
city overlooks the Vega, at
of the sea,
Like Broussa,
greatest altitude.
their
"a
is
rise
fortress palace.
feet
above the
spot," said the
level
Arabians,
" superior in extent and fertility to the Ghauttah, or the valley

of
Damascus
:"
who compared
the white villas and farm-houses
which sparkle amid the eternal verdure, to " Oriental pearls

set in a
cup of emeralds."
Granada
is
built
on and
at, the
base
of several hills; the portion of the Little Antequera hangs
over the Xenil.
The Alhambra
is
built
on a crowning height
that hangs over the Darro, which separates the Antequerela,
from the Albaicin.
made
above.
" canting"
have
arms
derived
town
lies
at the
The Granadinos
rat's hole
which
it.
of
Granada
Granada," stalked and proper

sense,
live
Alhambra, as a casa de r atones
indeed they have
kThe
best portion of the
none but the poor
base, while
despise the
The
are
pomegranate,
some, catching at sound, not
Granada from "Granatum," but
the
TRACES OF THE ROMAN AND- MOOR.
380
Moorish name was Karnattah, and they never would have

taken a Latin word had they wished to
granate," because the
They would have preferred

this
somewhat
are divided
hills
their
day a salad made of pomegranates
first
Pome-
like that fruit.
own word Rommaii, and
RomanaP It would be not less

Roman than to connect Karnattah
The
the town "
call
to
called " Ensalada
is
absurd to interpret this as

with a pomegranate.
object of course will be the
Alhambra; ascend
therefore the Calle de los Gomeles, and, passing under the gate
de las Granadas, enter the magical jurisdiction of
this fairy
Three, paths diverge; that to the right leads to the
palace.
Torres Bermejas, the "red towers," a sort of outwork, which

deserves a subsequent
This, the
visit.
Granada, existed when
Illiberis
most ancient portion of
was the
mentioned as " Kal-'at Al-hamra," "the red
Arabian poet so early as A. D. 864.
Medinah Al-hamra, "the red
The long
the curves
lines of walls
is
by an
castle,"
was afterwards
called
city."
and towers crown the
and dips of the ground
symmetry or anything
It
and
chief town,
there
hill,
is
and follow
no attempt at
straight; hence, as at Jaen, Xativa, etc.,
the elegance and picturesqueness of these Oriental fortifications
they are the antitheses of the commonplace
line
and
rule places
of Yauban, which are as worthless to the artist as admirable

to the engineer.
The Moorish towers

girdle of trees,
but
rise like
reddish cork models out of a
which contrasts with the stony
all is artificial,
sierras
above;
and the work of the water-enchanter Moor.
The centre walk leads to the public gardens; that to the

to the
Alhambra; the wooded
courses,
slopes are kept green
and tenanted by nightingales:
looks the
work of
nature,
it
is
left
by water-
although everything
the creation of man, as the
ROCK CHANGED INTO EDEN.
Moor changed
the barren rock into an Eden;
381
had the French
would have relapsed into barrenness,
intentions succeeded, all
from their destruction of the supply of water
came from England, and here being
it
much admired
rare, are as
as palms with us; on reaching the
barbican, and below
the elm-trees
height
is
a semicircular
a fountain, wrought in the coarse stone
of Elvira, in the Berruguete style.
It
was erected by the
Alcaide Mendoza, whose arms, with those of Charles Y., are

sculptured on
this
The
it.
monument has
river-gods are the Genii, Darro, etc.:
recently been barbarously repaired and
"restored."
Granada
drawn
the
is
a city of fountains.
off in canals
The Darro and Xenil
are
from high up near their sources, and thus
waters retain the original elevation above
town;
the
columns are accordingly thrown up from fountains in great
body and
height.
A sharp
Justicia,
turn conducts to the grand entrace,
the
which the king
7,) after
an ancient fashion, which
This gate was erected in 1308, by Yusuf
Abu-1-hajaj, a great decorator of the

it
quite
as
any modern Court of Chancery, either below the
or elsewhere.
called
Porte," at
was more rapid and cheap, and possibly
equitable, as
hill
viii.
Torre de
judgment, as in the East,
or his kaid dispensed
(Deut. xvi. 18; 1 Kings

at least
La
"gate of judgment," the "Sublime
tion over the inner
of the founder.
doorway records
It ends,
its
The Moors
Alhambra.
Babu-sh-sharPah, the "gate of the law."
The
imperishable actions of the just."
inscrip-
elevation and the
"May the Almighty make
a protecting bulwark, and write down
its
I.,
[erection]
name
this [gate]
among
the
The Moorish drapery has
been broken, to make a niche for a poor wooden image of the

Virgin.
382
Over the outer horse-shoe arch
is
seen an open hand, which
some consider an emblem of hospitality and generosity, the

redeeming qualities of the Oriental.
commandments
the five principal
keep the
ablution,
fast of
But the
the portal against the
women wore
like
classical phallic
Others refer
infidel."
true meaning of
it is
"
To
it
to the
a talisman over
much dreaded "Evil Eye,"

small bands of gold
the Neapolitans, and
symbol of defiance.
tica in 1525, forbad this usage.

is
to Mecca, almsgiving,
Orientals and Spaniards have always and do
their necks,
a type of
the hand of God, the Oriental symbol of power
and providence.
Morisco
it
of the creed of Islam
Ramadan, pilgrimage
and war against the
Hebrew jadh,
Others think
still
at which
The
tremble.
and
silver
round
a substitute for the
Charles Y., by a Pragma-
In the Sala de
los
Embajadores
an inscription to the same purport: "The best praise be
God
given to
I will remove
our master Yusuf,"
all
the effects of an
upon
evil eye
etc.
Over the inner arch
is
a sculptured
key, in
which some see
the Oriental symbol of power, (Isa. xxii. 22,) and others the
"key
is
of David." (Rev.
allusive to the "
iii.
T.)
Others, however, hold that
it
power of the keys," by which the true pro-
Then
phet opened the gates of heaven and
hell.
be simply a badge of honor,
keys worn by chamber-
lains
and
among
God
titled menials; the key,
the Sufis, denoting
" the
knowledge
It
castles, especially those built
the Almohades,
There
is
who
an
said to
however, was a symbolic sign
opens the heart of believers."
Andalucian
ners.
like the
it is
key by which
occurs
over
many
after the arrival of
bore this particular badge on their ban-
idle tale,
how
the
Moors boasted that
this
gate never would be opened to the Christians until the hand
took the
key.
GATE AND TOWER.
The entrance
is
383
carried through a double gate
between the two gates." (2 Sam.
xviii.
"
Here
24.)
David
is
sat
a guard-
room; and the passages are contrived so as to obstruct an
Xow,
entering enemy.
and
glittering
instead of the
w ell-appointed Mameluke
Moor, or iron-clad champion of Tendilla, a few
gaunt, bandit-looking invalids are huddled together.
Passing onwards, near a paltry altar screen,

inscription, coeval
and has
but
is
own
its
now
a Gothic
with the conquest, recording that event, and
the appointment of Inigo Lopez de

iurisdiction of the
is
Alhambra
is
The
as alcaide.
separate from that of Granada,
The
governor.
Mendoza
was one of high honor,
office
altogether second-rate.
The Virgin and

Luke, to which,
if
Child, in the Retablo,
was painted by Saint
any doubt, Mateo Ximenez
In
will swear.
our time no donkeys were allowed to go through this passage,
because some had grossly misbehaved themselves before the

painting.
Hence a narrow
open place, Plaza de
Ascend the
records, the
Torre de la
his brother.
Vela.
was
first
Here,
The panorama
Granada, belted w ith plantations;
Yega, about thirty miles
in length
as
by
The basin was once a
Xenil burst a way at Loja.
and
It
an inscription
is
glorious.
twenty-five in width,
lake,
The Yega
Below
beyond expands the
seventy in circumference, and guarded like an

of mountains.
the
hoisted by the Cardinal
lies
leads to
los Algibes.
Christian flag
Mendoza and
wall-enclosed lane
is
Eden by a
wall
through which the

studded with
villas
villages; every field has its battle, every rivulet its ballad.
is
a scene for painters to sketch, and for poets to describe.
To
the
of
Alhama, then the gorge of Loja
left, rise
the snowy Alpujarras, then the distant Sierra

in the distance, then the
round mountain of Parapanda, which
is
the barometer of the
384
Vega, as Soracte was to Horace;
netted with mists, so surely does rain

se
pone
Nearer Granada
is
fall
"
head
its
bon-
quisiera."
lo
the Sierra de Elvira, the site of old
To
and below the dark woods of the Soto de Roma.

is
is
Cuando Parapanda
Llueve aunque Dios no
Montera,
la
when
for
Illiberis,
the right
the rocky defile of Moclin, and the distant chains of Jaen:
the Torre de la Vela was gutted by the French.
It
is
so called,
because on this "watch-tower" hangs a silver-tongued

which, struck by the warder at certain times,
clock that gives notice to irrigators below.
still
night even at Loja, thirty miles
every January
2,
It
the primitive
is
This bell
off.
heard on a
is
also
rung
the anniversary of the surrender of Granada;
on that day the Alhambra
Few
is
bell,
is
visited
by crowds of peasantry.
maidens pass by without striking the
bell,
which ensures
a husband, and a good one in proportion as the noise made,

which,
The
it
fete
need not be
is
said,
is
continuous
altogether most national and picturesque.
sun
this torre just before the
sets,
to see
Then, as darkness comes on, the long
and stubble
in the
Yega, run and
battle flashes of infantry
el
his glory in
lines of
earth.
burning weeds
sparkle, crackling like the
Moor and
Christian.
Moro, the best of guides, conducted us to the
Cathedral and Capillo de

is
is
and, in the old warder's remark, recall
the last campaigns of the
Bensaken,
what
Ascend
when he crimsons heaven and
these southern latitudes,
which
and considerable.
a perfect
gem
Sagrario and Sacristia.
los Reyes,
the Chapel of the Kings,
of architecture, placed between the
MAGNIFICENT PANORAMA.
385
ALHAMBRA.
Starting very early one morning on horseback, with irregular
loitering,
and quite
sue, I finally
indifferent as to
made my way
what course I should pur-
up towards the
bra, and having passed through the narrow
hill
of the
Alham-
streets of the city,
found myself at length under the shadow of the Vermilion
Riding on through the woods, with their
Tower.
refreshing-
shades, cooling the approach to these glorious ruins, fsauntered
under the trees that threw their overhanging boughs over
lazily
the avenues and pathway, lending an air of seclusion to the
deep
and tangled copse of the more
dells
retired groves that
guard the pass, so well protected by the Massacuttin Tower,
by the Grate of Justice, which
I entered
with the symbolic devices.
omens of
of the
its
charm against
power
still
retains its
gateway
The hand without the porch

evil,
and the key within
is
still
significant
of the prophet to unlock the gates of paradise.
Passing on through another gateway, and leaving the ruined

pile of
Charles V. behind me, I came under another archway,
beneath a chamber under the wall above, which was owned by
an English gentleman, who could there admire the well preserved azulejo work on
De La
its
sides.
Beyond that was
the tow er
Vega, from the top of which a huge silver-toned bell
peals with
its
merry chimes, ringing at night only the hours and
the quarters, and sounding never by day, save as the alarm of
The view from the top is magnificent: ascend it,

and what a glorious panorama is presented. Below you lies
revolution.
the
town
of Granada, separated only from the
Albaicin by the fearful go*ge of the Darro.

old Moorish town,
now tenanted by gipsies and
these quarters, built on the summit of majestic

17
Hill of the
There was the

the poor.
hills,
Both
present the
386
they
cities as
easy succession on the waste amphitheatre
rise in
that surmounts the rich plain and the valley.

out
rolls
it is
verdure in rich
its
spreading, like a carpet, until
fields,
hemmed nf and bound by
That champagne
the fringes of the distant moun-
The bold and snow-clad Nevada looms over the wide
tains.
opening of the Suspiro gorge, and loses

tains of the Sun.
and the
city of
form in the moun-
its
Nearer to the town are the
Santa Fe, of broken
hills
of Elcira
where the Castilian
faith,
king sat te watch the battle on the plain, and to make treaties
and vows
made,
only to be broken.
scene the Parapanda towers, with

tive of rain
and beyond, on one
its
Overlooking
of the
fair,
in
this
mist-clouded head, indica-
side, are
the
and circumscribed by
Sun and Moon, and gleaming on those
of Loja,
hills
the mountains of Jaen, while beneath the eye
Granada, hemmed
all
its
and
the circuit of
is
own mountains
hills,
studded with
white houses, like pearls encircled by emeralds and ultra-
marine.
Opposite this tower are the ruins and portions of
the
Moorish wall, and below the parapets, under the
old
shelter of the
scattered debris, are the hanging gardens of
Charles V., and the boa-constrictor forms of the grape vines
which were originally planted by the Moors.

court
plies
is
In the outer
the original fountain of the Alhambra, which
pure water for the use of the
city,
still
sup-
and having crossed the
square of the fountain, you enter into the gorgeous palace of the
Alhambra, under the portals of a modern gateway.

is
How
great
the contrast there presented with the inferior and neglected
You now stand within the Alberca, or

fish-pond.
At your right is the mere shell
outer wall
tank or
the winter's palace, which was destroyed to
court of the
or front of
make room
for the
abominable and heavy architectural abortion of Charles V.

All
is
now
fairy-like
and
light within,
and
entirely unlike any-
GOLDEN FISH IN TANK.
387
thing that could have been anticipated from the gloomy appear-
ance of the external walls and towers.
In the tank of
court are the descendants of the
fish
The aspect
in its waters.
beautiful,
is
that ever
swam
of the double corridor to your right
and
graceful,
gold
first
this
light,
and
separated from the
is
lower story by latticed windows of the harem, or women's apartment.
The
opposite front of the palace, leading to the Hall
of the Ambassadors,
is
overtopped by the Tower of Comares.
Under the
This lacks, however, a double corridor.

of this entrance are several pretty
arabesque pendants.
little
alcoves, decorated with
stairway at the side of the Archives
The patio
leads to the entrance of the Mesquita, or mosk.

front presents a
charming
bit of architectural beauty,
the only remaining specimen of the original roof.

is
porticoes
in
and shows
Just opposite
the door of the Mesquita, with arches supported by slight
and slender columns that would almost seem to bend under

the superincumbent weight, were not that appearance relieved
by the fretted lace-work of the arch above.

the
mosk has been
its
former primitive characteristics.
so often retouched as to
The
have
much
been cut away on a
lost
much
of
The ante-room of the
Ambassador's Hall has a curious wagon-domed

of which retains
interior of
roof, the side
of the original stucco work, which has
line
above the reach of man's hand.
around the wainscoting of azulejo work

in checker of various colors
is
All
retained, constructed
and forms, changing
in composition
and disposition of patterns according to the fancy of the
archi-
and orange.
The
tect,
and consisting
chiefly of purple, green,
primitive red, blue, and gold, adorn the grounds of the Turkish
stucco,
and
tile
indentures of the
ceiling
sections of a truncated honey-comb.
than the
effects of its
varying beauties.
hanging
like
the
Nothing could be richer
388
Whilst passing thence by a long passage-way, we had a

glimpse of the women's apartments, and of that particular
chamber wherein the scene of the Zohayra's imprisonment was

laid.
This had been closed by an iron grating, though
possible to observe the graceful
and
to the
little
apartment
interest
and
Tocador "of Queen's

in
ruins,
associations,
was
slight stems of the pillars
supporting the arches of this secluded quarter.
came
it
We
at length
toilet-boudoir," a beautiful
but
retaining
little
of
its
former
but capable of inspiring some rays of
poetic feeling, as you look through the interstices of the delicate
columns that supported the roof
and had
it
been sunset, you
could have looked over the valley and the Yega-impending
mountains, upon a scene and landskip which would then have
been painted with
all
the gorgeous tones of an Italian sky, with
Claude Lorraine's perspective.
Having descended
into the court below,
the apartments of the baths, where
we soon reached
we obtained a
sight of
several underground passages which seemed to communicate
with different parts of the palace, affording the secret means

of escape in time of necessity.
By
retracing our steps, and
returning into the square of the " Berca,"

into the Court of " Lions."
No
we gained an
entrance
order of architectural beauty
could surpass the fairy-like proportions of this patio, surrounded
by a hundred graceful columns, which were disposed
in alter-
nate ranks of single pillars and couplets, so arranged as to

enclose in their centre a beautiful fountain of chaste marble,
supported on rather dubious
effigies
and graceful porches extended out

shelter of
of lions, while
two
light
into the court, under the
which groups of devout Musselmen were formerly
wont to assemble and talk the news before entering the Hall
of Justice, which
was within the
vestibule beyond.
The
inte-
LOCALE OF LOVE TALES.
389
several of the rooms under these porticos were richly
rior of
ornamented with ensculptured tablets and arabesque

presenting an aspect of
position,
aerial
and Oriental grace
which defied the faculty of a descriptive
scrolls,
in their
com-
tourist, offer-
ing no parallel unto which they could be likened or compared,
except in the marvelous illuminations of the Tales of the
Arabian Nights.
The Halls
the "
Two
of the Abencarrages
Sisters,"
suggested a most perfect beau-ideal of the
locale of Eastern love-tale,
most
brilliant
and Las Dos Hermanas, or
and peopled the fancy with the
images of those scenes in the Harems of the
East, where " dark-eyed beauties of raven hah'," and houris for
the prophat, appeared reclining and sleeping on golden couches,
amid the perfumes of sweet incense and the
soft notes of music,
while the ever- wakeful eunuch kept his vigils at the gate.
It
were useless to attempt a proper description of these miracles of

art, or of
that gorgeous coup-d'ceil
unique window of the Linderaja.
which may be had from the

There
is
nothing similar in
nature but those magnificent caves, where crystals of stalactitic
grace hang pendant from the walls, or flowers of sulphates form

in lines along the roofs of these brilliant caverns.
may be
name
seen the poetry of architecture.
of
in order to
spot,
widest part
the
it is
and must ever be
Alhambra the
to the mystical
suffered to remain there
be pregnant with inspiration.
The Alhambra
thick
the
Washington Irving has been wedded
muse of the
its
At
Here only
hill
is
about 2690 feet long by "30
feet in
the walls average thirty feet high and six feet
shaped
like a grand-piano,
Torre de la Vela:
it
is
with the point toward
entirely girdled with
walls
and
towers.
Leaving the Palace by a small door at the
hall
of Justice,
390
and following the outer wall to the

torio, so called
from
its
left, is
the
Casa
del Observa-
mirador, or Casa Sanchez, from having
been the dwelling of a poor but honest peasant of that name.

It
was once picturesque and beloved by every
artist,
but
it
was
ruined bv a barbarian in 1831.

4/
Continuing lower down

Pico,
the Moorish gate of the Torre del
is
which the French intended to blow up as a parting
legacy,
had not
been thwarted by the procrasti-
their intention
From
nation of the agent Farses.
this gate,
The grand mosque
the ravine, leads up to the Generalife.

the
Alhambra stood near;
III.,
and
is
it
was
a path, crossing
by
built in 1308,
thus described by Ibnu-1-Khattib
of
Mohammed
It
is
" orna-
mented with Mosaic work, and exquisite tracery of the most

and
beautiful
intricate patterns, intermixed with silver flowers
and graceful arches, supported by innumerable

finest polished
structure,
pillars of the
marble; indeed, what with the solidity of the
which the sultan inspected
in person,
the elegance
of the design, and *the beauty of the proportions, the building
has not
its like
in this country;
and I have frequently heard
our best architects say that they had never seen or heard of a
building which can be compared to
it."
This, continues
Gay-
angos, was in very good preservation until the ruthless occupation of the French,
when
it
Continuing to the right
was
is
entirely destroyed.
the corner tower, de la
Agua
here an aqueduct, spanning the most picturesque ravine, supplies the hill
with water.
The French blew up
this
and the
next tower; had they succeeded, as they wished, in destroying

the
aqueduct,
desert.
the
Alhambra would have become again a
Other towers, injured by these destroyers, now
in-
tervene between "Los Sietc Suelos," the seven stories, or the
former grand gate by which Boabdil went out, descending to
SOLID MASS OF FORTRESS.
Xenil by the Puerta de
los
Molinos : hence
walled up, as being a gate of bad omen.

talism.
So
shut,
shall not
it
(Ezek.
The
when
princes
came
be opened, no
man
likewise,
This
in,
saltpetre
what they once were;
testify
for* his
In order to
embroidery
quarter,
this
all
La Casa
Passing the Puerta
soldiers.
visit
the Generalife,
del Pico, to the right of the
de
las
circuit
we passed
and romantic ravine now divides the
the Generalife
tect," of
whom
1320.
Isma'il-Ibn-Faraj, the
of the
administrador.
out at the Puerta
villa,
now
and the
figs
sultan,
purchased the
belongs to the Marquis
He
and Azulejo work, with
sonado
is
Darro here empties
still
its
villa of
still
an
is
real owner, as usual,
This was the palace of Omar, and
This
and vines
garden of the archi-
traces of Moorish-Tarkish
roof.
Alham-
of the
hill
Grimaldi Gentili family.
absentee, living at Genoa,
by
completed.
is
Ascending amidst
Jennatu-Varif, the "
This mountain
of Campotejar,
Carril,
del
remains of the old Moorish Stables.
bra from the Sierra del Sol.
site in
it."
what can withstand
six towers, their
which carriages enter the Alhambra, the
is
be
was leveled by Sebastiani, to make an exercising
Viudas,
A deep
by
enter in
with the Moorish palace of the Mufti, and
ground
shall
Whatever escaped was by lucky
and now the ruins of
and porcelain,
a pure Orien-
is
"This gate
shall
walls were fourteen feet thick, but
accident,
was afterwards
it
All was wantonly blown up by the French.
xliv. 2.)
" villainous
391
is
the
retains
.the
artin-
waters; the canal of the
virgin stream;
it
boils
through the
evergreen glades under the arches of the court, while an open
colonnade overlooks the Alhambra, no longer looking

filagree
boudoir, but
a grand solid mass of
fortress.
like
The
view of Granada and the mountain prospect obtained from

the arches of this colonnade, was magnificent, while the shelter
892
of
its
cypresses rustling in the breeze, in soft cadence with the
bubbling of the Darro's fountains, gave an aspect to the scene
The
which was truly enchanting.
head of the
court, but the inmates
ble contrast with Moorish forms

cypresses,
livery-rooms are those at the
the
" trysting-place n
and furniture are
and
of
enormous, and as old as the Moors; the
Sultana,
frail
have been discovered under them with her

rage; but this
is
at these
which
Zoraya,
lover, the
are
said to
is
Abencer-
a calumny of the Romaneeros, and they are
witnesses, like the "
false
Look
color.
the
in misera-
Holm and Mastick"
of the chaste
Susanna.
At
the top of the
from which the view
hill is
the Moor's chair, la Silla del Moro,
splendid, that never can be defiled or
is
In the evening I went again to the tower, and
destroyed.
took a view of that magnificent panorama from the tower de la

Vela.
How
was the
glorious
light of that sunset
how
superb
the effect of the lingering rays which stole over mountain and
dell
gale,
it
and
as I listened to sounds of the wood-peopling nightin-
making the groves
was an easy task to
of the Albaicir vocal with their notes,
recall the light of the glories of those
golden nights, when Moorish beauties hung their
fair
forms
over the frames of these ancient balconies, and thence listened
from their mirodors, when they enjoyed the splendor of these

enchanting scenes, and waiting impatiently for the step of their
cherished lovers, vividly
awake
all
the while, either to the sound
of the distant lutes, or the carols of the joyous birds.
an hour the
At
such
heart's finest chords are touched with tones
of
deepest sympathy, and the recollection of Moorish grandeur,

of
Alhambra
splendor,
the chambers of
my
and
their maidens' joys rushed through
memory, revealing strong images of varied
and mingled emotions of sorrow
for the losses of the chieftain
MOORISH LIVERY OF SEISIX.
393
of Granada, of pity for the deep sighs which rose from the
throbbing bosom of the vanquished, for the tear shed by manly

eyes at the rupture of his warrior hopes, and his separation
from the Paradise of
No
his heart.
sentiments can be more
impressive than those which arise in the pregnant
womb
of eve,
there can be no better time for the earnest struggles of the
no better place to scene out the pleasures of the imagi-
heart,
nation,
upon which to depict the
abandoned wrecks of
Here, when sunset casts
joys.
throes of purple over the
visions of past glories,

its
and
last
of the passing day, as the soft
fall
winds sigh through the halls of the Moors, and the bright
towers of the Alhambra blaze with vivid touches of golden
light,
before night buries nature and fair art in a universal mantle of
Again we mounted
gloom and blackness.

coursers, rapidly
fleet
narrow lanes
as
to the
Alhambra, our
winds, galloping
the
through the
the Albaicen, and trampling almost upon the
of
beggars, gipsies, gamblers, and animals of this Jewry, until
we reached
the convent de
aqueduct
little
pretty,
is
it
barranco or ravine behind
los
Martiros.
The garden with
in close juxta-position
is
where
it,
its
with the
gipsies live in troglodyte
burrows, amid aloes and prickly pears.
The dark daughters
under their
vines, while
their
The Cualto
Peal,
one of the convent gardens, was once a royal Moorish
villa.
of
Moultan
elfin
sit
in
their rags
brats beg of the stranger an ackavico.
The approach
is
under a high embowered archway of bays and
enormous myrtles.
The
saloons and the Azulejo wear freshly
on their cunic inscriptions of green, white, and blue.
The
The
origi-
w hite
T
tiles
with golden
scrolls
occur nowhere
else.
nal deeds of this garden, afford a curious abstract of the titles

of this age.
The
" livery of Seisin,"
was thus
Don Alonzo
entered the garden pavilion; next he opened and shut the door,
17*
394
giving the
key to Macafreto, a well-known householder of
Granada, he then went into the garden, cut

with his
knife,
off
and dug up some earth with
a bit of a tree
Such
his spade.
was the practice of the Moorish conveyancers.
Not far from the Puerto, del Pescada, where a Moorish gateway displays three arches of elegant design, is the Cxtrrera del
Darro, or public walk, with planted
with the Alameda on the Xenil, and
trees,
is
which communicates
much frequented
in the
mornings of winter and evenings of summer.
The Darro
rises
from the
hill
of myrtles near Huetor, and
approaches Granada under the Monte Sacro ; so called from

the finding certain sacred bones and
buted the sweetness and
which are
attri-
fertilizing quality of the stream.
The
relics, to
walks on both sides of the swift arrowy Darro up

delicious: the
name
stream gambols down the
defile;
this hill are
hence
Arabic
its
Ilddaroh, from Hadar, " rapidity in flowing."
found in the bed
Gold
is
whence some, catching at the beloved sound,
have derived the name Darro, " quasi dat aurum;" and
in
1$26
a crown was given to Isabel, wife of Charles V., made from

grains found in this Pactolus.
Here amphibious
gold-fishers still
puddle in the eddies, earning a miserable livelihood in groping
The Romans
for the precious metal.
the gorge through which
it
called the river Salon
flows under the Generalife,
was the
Haxariz, or " Garden of Recreation," of the Moors, and was

studded with
villas.
The Darro,
after
washing the base of the
Alhambra, flows under the Plaza nueva, being arched over

and when swelled with
blowing up
rains, there is
this covering.
always much risk of
Such, -says the Seguidilla,
portion which Darro will bear to his bride the Xenil.
is
its
the
RIVERS DARRO AXD XENIL.
395
" Darro tUne prometido,

El casarse con Xenil
Y le ha
de llevar en dote.
Plaza nneva y Zacatin"
The Moorish Zacatin
Arabich
as antique as the Spanish
Plaza nueva
covered with an awning, a
it is
At
tenty look.
Zacca
toldo,
streets,
is
modern.
passages
In
which gives a cool and
the respaldas, the Prout-like houses and top-
every form and color of picturesque poverty
is
clamber up the
is
summer
pling balconies are so old that they seem only not to
Here
irregularities, while
fall.
vines
below naiads dabble, wash-
ing their red and yellow garments in the all-gilding glorious
The Darro reappears
sunbeams.
"Carrera," and then marries
itself to
career at the
its
This
the Xenil.
Romans, the Shingil of the Moor
Singiiis of the
the Sierra
at the end of
Nevada through a most Alpine country.
composed of melted snow, are unwholesome,
as,
the
flows from
The
waters,
indeed,
are
most of those of Granada, which have a purgative tendency.
The Moorish
poets,
who saw
in the
Xenil the life-blood of the
Yega, the element of wealth, compared
its
gold flowing between emerald banks."
"
waters to " melted
What
has Cairo to
boast of with her Nile, since Granada has a thousand Xiles ?"
The
letter she, sheen, has also the numerical value of a thousand.
The
artist will, of course, trace this
sources,
from
from whence
cities,
and
free
it
Xenil up to
its glacier
gushes, pure, cold, and chaste.
Far
from their drains and pollutions, the river
descends through a bosom of beauty, jealously detained at every

step
by some garden, which woos
affection.
The
which opposes
querula,
fickle
its
its
embrace, and drains
off its
impatient stream, fretted at every stone
escape,
enters
and passes El Salon, a
Granada under
The
fine walk.
the
Ante-
sculptural
390
decorations are, however, in the vilest art
never were pome-
granates worse carved than in this Granada, which teems with

real models,
and once was celebrated
beauty and fashion congregate on

stantly injured
below
it,
town of
infinite
mountain
tributaries,
is
and
unites,
The
conunite
sewers, are "san-
its
The Xenil
grado," or drained, for irrigation.
by
Alameda, which
this
The Xenil and Darro
by overfloodings.
and, after cleansing the
carvers.
for its
soon increased
is
a noble stream, with
the Guadalquivir, near Ecija.
While walking through the
streets of
Granada, the numerous
and varied glimpses which you get of the prominently impending
hills
delight
and towers of the Alhambra,
One never
and beauty.
is
a source of perpetual
appreciates so fully the truth
of the poet's taste, that a thing- of beauty
when passing through

are usually watered
the different
is
Alameda
a joy for ever, as
of this town, which
by limpid and rapid streams of water
flow-
and leaping along with
their
ing freshly from their native
hills,
joyous murmurings, seeming almost to laugh with delight as

they
frolic
away over the pebbled
beds, and, to rejoice at the
refreshing influences which they convey to the eye

of the desultory man.
In no place
is
and the sense
the recollection of such
joys and pleasurable emotions so vivid as
in
Granada, and
while passing along by the famous old square of the Viba-
rambia
the gate of river-^sq
celebrated in the ballads sung
Cahas and the balls of Gazul, one

with the happy effect which the blessing
for the
it
runs along, mingling
its
life
is
particularly struck
of water supplies, as
with the varied features which
are so often afforded in Spain, amidst the grotesque hpuses of

its
towns and
its
animated market groups, and enlivened by a
display of their various wares, delicious fruits,
and party-clad
people, as they are displayed at the booths
stalls
and
on some
GIL BLAS
AND ARCHBISHOP.
favorite market-day.
The
cially the grapes, figs,
and melons
fruits of
391
Spain are very
fine, espe-
the latter are piled up like
cannon-shot, and few of the arsenals of Spain can vie with the
display of the natural and vegetable artillery which
on the market-days at Granada.
palm over
all
other
fruit,
The
figs,
from the small,
is
supplied
however, bear the
delicious, early
to the little greengage-looking later fruit.
The
first,
Breba
however,
are attended with slight unpleasant circumstances, which some-
times deter the traveler from indulging in them

satisfactory account of this, I refer
Fish and
caderia,
the
fruit lie in close
as
must the ancient
offend the nose.
and
for a
more
ix. 10.
proximity on the quarter of the Pes-
where the old wooden balconies
artist,
you to Hosea,
will delight the eye of
fish-like smell of
the shambles
All which but sinks into insignificance in com-
parison with the classic recollections of the Archbishop's Palace
round the corner, to the north of
where Gil Bias was
this square,
simple enough to criticise the works of the archbishop.

palace, notwithstanding
palace in magnificence,
would term
it,
consequence,
Le Sage
is
describes
it
This
as rivaling a king's
nothing but a rat-box, as the Spanish
casa de rat ares; a disparity of opinion of
when we
reflect that
Le Sage was never
in Spain.
The Cathedral adjoining the archbishop's palace was
when
the Gothic style
think
it
was going out
a rival of Saint Peter's.
houses and streets.
It
of fashion.
is
modern
hpms, masks, and unfinished

.worth the painter's
artists,
three recesses divide
beginning
festoons, that
and reader's notice
Granadinos
for the style of the
the compartments of the entrance, and the facade

ized fey the attempts of
built
blocked up with mean
Three orders contest
tower, which lacks, as yet, a companion
little
it
is
is
it
so pagan-
with rams'
much
better
to study the groups in
the markets, than distort their attention by a sight at such
398
unseemly
what
We pass
realities.
truly agreeable within.
is
The
Cajpilla de los
Sacristia,
portal,
over the outside, in order to notice
and
is
Reyes
the
gem
placed between the Sagrario and
is
It
is
elaborately wrought with
The
heraldic pride and religious humility.

;
rich Gothic
having escaped the Bourbon whitewash, contrasts with
the glare around.
sive
The
of the cathedral.
silence reigns in this
emblems of
interior
impres-
is
chamber of the dead, and accords
with the tender sentiment which the solemn Gothic peculiarly

inspires.
This royal chapel, like that of St. Ferdinand, at Seville,
independent of the cathedral, and has or had

ter
and eighteen chaplains.
The Coro
alto is
It
is
its
separate chap-
divided into two portions.
adorned with the shields and badges of the
Catholic sovereigns.
The superb
made
Maestre Bartolome, whose name
in 1522,
by
is
el
Seja, of iron, partly gilt,

is
was
near
the keyhole.
On
each side of the high altar kneel carved
effigies
of the
king and queen, which are very remarkable, being exact representations of their faces, forms,
nand
is
and costumes
behind Ferdi-
the victorious banner of Castile, while the absorbing
policy for which both lived
and the conversion of the
and died-the conquest of the Moor

Infidel
in singular painted carvings,
are
embodied behind them
which have been attributed to
Felipe Yigarny, and are of the highest antiquarian interest.
In that which represents the surrender of the Alhambra, Isabella,
on a white palfrey, rides between Ferdinand and third
king, " the great cardinal "
Mendoza
he
mule, like Wolsey, and alone wears gloves

line face contrasts
He
is
;
on
his
his
trapped
pinched aqui-
with the chubbiness of the king and queen.
opens his hand to receive the key, which the dismounted
SEPULCHRE OF FERDINAND AND ISABELLA.
Boabdil presents, holding

ladies, knights,
Nothing of the kind
The other
The
the Infidel."
Behind him are
in
Spain can be more
basso-relievo records the " Conversion of
reluctant flock
by shorn monks.
wrappers of the
by the wards.
and haldberdiers, while captives come out from
the gates in pairs.

curious.
it
399
baptized in the wholesale
is
Observe the costumes
women
the mufflers and leg-
the Roman fasciaare
precisely those
still
worn
tals
do not change stockings or fashions, corroborate the truth
at
Tetuan by
who
their descendants,
thus, as Orien-
of these monuments.
In the centre of the chapel are two magnificent sepulchres,
wrought at Genoa by Peralta, so

ter
it
is
said, in delicate alabas-
on these are extended their marble
side, life's fitful fever o'er, in

;
and those of
Ferdinand and Isabella slumber
their next successors.
and happy union
figures,
side
by
the peaceful attitude of their long
they contrast, the ruling passion strong in
death, with the averted countenances of Juana, their
weak
daughter, and Philip, her handsome but worthless husband.
Observe carefully the details of these urnas and the ornaments:

in that of
Ferdinand and Isabella the four doctors of the church
are at the corners, and the twelve apostles at the sides
nand wears the Garter, Isabella the Cross

faces are portraits
is
their costume
the urna of Philip of
Jane.
of Santiago.
very simple.
Burgundy and Juana
They are both gorgeously
Fleece.
is
The decorations
attired
la
Ferdi-
Their
Analagous
Loca
crazy
he wears the Golden
are cinque-cento, and some of the
sculptured children are quite Raphaelesque.
These royal sepulchres are superb.

admirable
her smile
light sleeping
is
on snow
as cold
The
statue of Isabella
is
and her look as placid as moon

400

" In questa forma
Passa la bella donna
She died indeed
far
par che dorma."
from Granada, but desired to be buried
The sentiment
here, in the brightest pearl of her crown.
truly touching,
subject
is
and the
effect
aimed at
produced
fully
is
is
the
the Christian's death, who, stretched on the tomb, has
yet the hope of another and a better
She was the Eliza-
life.
beth of Spain, the brightest star of an age which produced
Ximenez, Columbus, and the Great Captain,
growth under her
all
of
whom
and withered at her death.
rose
She
to
full
is
one of the most faultless characters in history, one of the
purest sovereigns
" in
all
who
smile,
ever graced or dignified a throne, who,
her relations of queen or woman," was, in the words of
Lord Bacon,
" an honor to her sex,
and the corner-stone of the
greatness of Spain."
For the
Prescott's
human
"The
true character of the

excellent work, or
Catholic sovereigns consult
Shakspere, who, understanding
character by intuition, thus justly describes Ferdinand
wisest king that ever ruled in Spain
VIII.,
when
and makes Henry
describing the virtues of his ill-fated Katharine,
thus portray her mother Isabella
'
:"
If thy rare qualities, sweet gentleness
Thy meekness,
saint-like, wife-like
government,
Obeying in commanding, and thy parts

Sovereign and pious, else could speak thee out
The Queen of earthly Queens
Next descend
into their last resting-place
mind your head
/"
leads
Charles V. said, for so
a low door
down to the vault, a small space, as

much greatness. The royal coffins are
rude and misshapen, plain and iron-girt
but they are genuine,
GLORIES OF THE PAST.
and have never been
rifled
Leon and
The ashes
elsewhere.
by Gaul
401
or Ghoul, like those of
of the royal conqueror have
never been insulted, nor have the "dead been unplumbed to

furnish missiles of death against the living."-
The
that of Ferdinand.
injured
religio loci
The
letter "F
marks
and sepulchral character
is
by some modern churrigueresque stucco-work.
Thus the earthly remains of prudence,

moulder alongside of those of
These sad
relics of
imbecility,
vice,
departed majesty,
and piety
valor,
and
despair.
long
silent witnesses of
bygone days, connect the spectator with the busy period which,
heightened by the present decay of Spain, appears in the " dark
backward of time," to be rather some abstract dream

romance than a chapter of sober history: but these
the past and present real
nature alike
sierra,
mids
the
and everything
Alhambra, the
at
coffins
Granada,
make
art
battle-field vega, the
of
and
snowy
towering above, more lofty and enduring than the pyra-
form the common monuments
and the best
histories of
these, the true founders of their country's greatness.
Then
it
was, in the words of an eye-witness, "that Spain spread her
wings over a wider sweep of empire, and extended her name of

glory to the far antipodes."
which the sun never
set,
ror of Europe, while a
the dreams of avarice,
very
moment when
Then
it
was unfolded,
new
was
was that her

to the
flag,
wonder and
on
ter-
world, boundless, and richer than
cast into her lap, discovered at the
the old world
was becoming too confined
for
the outgrowth of the awakened intellect, enterprise, and ambition of
The
mankind.
interest of
Palace and a few
Granada, beyond the

articles
of rare value
illustrious ruins
and remote antiquity
or the sacristy of the Cathedral, stops with the
Alhambra and
its hills.
of her
Moors the
402
On
late
the last evening which
we
spent at Granada, I lingered
watching the quiet beauties of
ed portions of the
its
town, and in the seclud-
sought to find new interests and pleas-
city,
ant views along the banks of the bubbling Darra and the lively
Xenil.
sat
Shielded from the oblique rays of the declining sun, I
under the shade of the noble and venerable elms that
expanded
citizens,
their
arms
in natural
arches over the walks of the
and under that canopy of
and watched
trees waited
with longing and eager eyes, but with a disburdened heart
and glorious
associations, while the forms
walls floated over the distant
hills,
of the
seeming afar
the horizon, behind which the sun was sinking.
Alhambra
off to
mark
Beside me, the
ever-blooming flowers of the Acacia and the blushing clusters

of the rhododendron flung their graceful trellises of leaves
and
flowers, emitting
but a slight perfume, which was rather the
reflecting colors of odorous light, harmoniously blending with
the eve, than the perfume of pleasant scent, and by their roots
the play of fountains rushed in accordance with the running
streams mingling amid the beauties of the scenes like the workings of fancy
and fond thought amid the
Under such a
wedded
art
construction of
and nature,
it
loveliness
and grace, and of
were impossible not to
of transport which excites the poet and

inspired cast.
reveries of a dream.
feel the delirium
artist to
thoughts of an
Such an embodiment of beauty and of grace,
of natural effects and suggested association, seemed a
through which to view the glories of the past,
it
fit
frame
was calculated
to revive the history of the Moors, the almost fabulous accounts

of the Musselman's
life,
the pictures of the domestic comforts,
the beautiful constructions of their houses, and to restore in

fact the castles
ries,
and towers, bastions, gateways, gardens,
galle-
groves and pastures of that wonderful and warlike people.
403
MEDITATIVE FANCIES.
The sad
picture of the present Spanish
with
fully
town contrasted mourn-
even as the ruins of the Alhambra were
this picture,
Such
opposed to the former condition of perfection and order.
eventides disposed the rambler to earnest and solemn medita-
tion.
happy
train of sentiment survives the turns of thought
which course within that hour, and amid
all
the power of these
sad and mournful reflections which brood over the mind, there
is
an
less
effort
than
and a
ruins,
relief in the consolation,
have their beautiful
that
human
life,
no
reflections of sunshine, vary-
ing ever the opinions which checker our existence with their
light
and shady
flecks,
and opening to our waking and active
perceptions, prospects and fruits of brighter realms and perpet-
ual joy, amid the stern conflicts and harsh struggles of the
w orld, and
r
pointing
" Yet higher
still to lights' first
source aspire,
"With eyes that never blink, and wings that never tire."
Xothing can be more pleasing and

relish the simple beauties of nature,
interesting to those
who
than to walk by the side
of living streams, to see the light playing
and disappearing on
the water, the green boughs waving their long streamers on the
waves, the twigs and reeds bending and recovering themselves

again, the glassy reflections on the deep, while shrub
of varied shape
and
shade on the bank.
and to
foliage
Here
is
inspiration.
stream of
life.
How
How
enough to
fill
the tasteful mind,
draw from such sources holy
various the views on the side of the
dear to the heart the memory of the
streams and bubbles of our boyhood.
become when we stand by them

river.
trees
form a quivering and refreshing
invite the painter-poet to
and pure
and
in old
How meditative we
How like life is a
age.
404
The excursion
from inundations, has no
by
it
its
situated on the Xenil, about
from Granada, and
three leagues
on
Roma,
to Soto de
This property
bounded on
is
constant injuries
beyond that
intrinsic interest
Duke
owner, the late
illustrious
to
liable
the west
reflected
of Wellington.
by the
Sierra de
Elvira, which rises like a throne of stone over the carpeted
vega, through which a spring of water flows from the rock,
gushing with
balm of healing
its
It contains about
4000
but the value of this estate has
acres,
been greatly exaggerated
cutaneous complaints.
for
in Spain; first
of the Spaniards to romance
from the natural habit
then from a desire to exagge-
rate the national gift to the Duke, and lastly, from not always
knowing what they are talking about.
Duke had taken
Scarcely three days after the
"Soto"
of the
"the
Wood
of
possession of
Pomegranates"
before the
tenants petitioned to Madrid, impugning the right of the Cortes

to grant this property to a foreigner.
" Soto
is
worth at
least
a million," until in and out of Spain
was considered an El dorado.

land
is
poor,
and
Thus, said they, the
house
the
England would not pass
In sober
" palace,"
so-called
this
it
however, the
reality,
for a decent manor-farm.
in
The Duke
having received a better proportionate rent than the neighboring proprietors, the Dukes of Abrantes and San Lorenzo,
simply because he was not robbed, caused them, in envy, backed
by
avarice, to circulate
agent and manager.*

fortune,
belief in the lie
cry;
and
against O'Lawlor, his
as
is
making
the
El
loser
so,
the
lad r on piensa que todos
thief judges of others
O'Lawlor has been a
his
most Spanish administra-
which they coveted, would have done
was commensurate.
son de su condicion
truth,
evil report
"Esta atesorando," he
was the universal
dores in his place,
In
an
by the
by
himself.
situation,
which
405
SANTA FE OF COLUMBUS.
No
he held from pure love and respect to his great master.
Spanish government dared to promote him in the army or
make him
the Captain-General, while they feared his supposed
wealth and influence.
O'Lawlor, prudent for others, and eco-
nomical in his habits, by an early investment of part of his
most profitable lead-mines of Berja,
rich wife's fortune in the
has reaped the reward of order and wise speculation.
He,
like
contempt the floating calum-
his master, has long treated with
Esjpaha; but when they
nies of the "smaller deer," as Cosas de
were published by Lord Londonderry, whose chivalrous character
a sufficient guarantee that his ear had been poisoned
is
with incorrect accounts, he sent, through
the
Duke, who has
always known his man, such an unanswerable answer as became
When,
the soldier and the gentleman.
advanced age, he gave up

1846, was he
The rambling
seeing,
visitor, if
old
Simancas.
and
may
return
that
Granada.
signed,
was dated at
built
there
by Ferdinand and
The miserable spot was
and the
this
Here the
original
capitu-
deed
is
town of "sacred faith"
at
as
every stipulation
was from Santa Fe that Colum-
was subsequently broken.
It
bus started to discover the
New
had rewarded
is, if
The
Granada by the now decayed
to
mockery of the Punic perfidy with which
success
col-
Soto contains nothing
cross the Xenil
Santa Fe, the town
Granada was
It
his
shattered by an earthquake in 180*1.
lation of
in
1814
mansion at the
Isabella, while besieging
if
in
Alava,
the greengages in the garden excepted.
agricultural village
much
honorable charge, then only, in
his
promoted
on horseback,
be no flood
consequence of his
made a Lieutenant-General
league, having been
worth
in
World, and
also to find,
his toils, every pledge previously
upon scandalously disregarded.
when
agreed
406
ASCENT OF THE SIERRA NEVADA.

The
should by
lover of Alpine scenery
The highest peak
the Sierra Nevada.
the Mulahacen, so
is
The next
called from Boabdil's father.
means ascend
all
is
El Picacho
de la
Veleta, the " watch-point," which appears to be loftier, because
nearer to Granada, and of a conical, not a rounded shape.
This eternal rampant of the lovely vega
is
very impressive
sharp mother-o'-pearl outline cuts the blue sky;

defined, yet mysteriously distant,
are
its
The adventurous
characteristics.
and
clear
and sublimity
solitude,
size,
the
are inspired to scale
the heights and win the favors of this cold beauty, and she
about twenty miles, and
may be
The night passed on

air bites
good
for
The
be melted by such daring.
will
distance to this point
is
accomplished in nine hours.
these heights
is
"the
piercing cold
shrewdly;" but with a "provend" of blankets, and of
vino de
man and
Baza,
it
will kill
While beds are making
no one.
beast, the foragers
must be sent to
collect the
dry
plants and dead underwood, of which such a bonfire can be
made
as will
make
the Granadians below think the Picacho
going to be a volcano, probatum
Xo
est.
is
diamonds ever
sparkle like the stars on the deep firmament, seen from hence,
medium.
at midnight, through the rarified
begins the tug of war.

road, which
The
effects
may be
hour there
is
is
a sort of
ridden; the rest must be done on foot.
while
felt
muscular exertion
in
first
produced by he rarity tof the
body are not
when
For the
After the Prevesin
seated
air
on the lungs and
on a mule;
but
necessary, a greater strain
a denser atmosphere.
The
is
fish,
is
that
required than
equilibration of
supports the bones as water does the
now
air,
which
wanting, and
VIEW FROM THE PICACHO.
407
muscles have to bear the additional weight;
the
hence the
exhaustion.
The Picacho
Now
a small platform over a yawming precipice.
is
w e are raised above the

r
lies like
wrhich, wdth
earth,
an opened map at our
all its glories,
w hen the vapors ascend

T
feet
from the ocean, they are spread out beneath
like a sea, out of
w hich the black pinnacles of lower mountains emerge

T
when
islands;
the thunder-storms roll below your feet, you
down even on
look
Xow
the lightnings.
the eye travels over
the infinite space, swifter than by railroad, comprehending
On
at once.
the
faint
like
one hand
is
it all
the blue Mediterranean lake, wdth
even of Africa in the indistinct horizon.
outline
Inland, jagged sierras rise one over another, the barriers of the
The
central Castiles.
snows
is
fully felt
cold sublimity
of these
silent eternal
on the very pinnacle of the Alps, which
stands out in friendless state, isolated like a despot, and too

elevated to have anything in
this
common with aught
barren wind-blown height vegetation and
even the last lichen or pale
on the verge of
offers shelter
ruin,
w astes
which, blooming like beauty
its
a grave wdth
each in
its last
sweetness wherever a stone
little
its
warmth
of
soil-denuded heights the eagle builds

for
her
throne;
birds,
eyrie.
and
Here she
reigns
lofty as are these
On
have ceased,
from the snow; thousands of winged insects
frozen in this shroud,

itself
violet,
life
below.
life.
cell,
lie
having thawed
In the scarped and
she must have mountains
unmolested
on her stony
peaks above the earth, these
towering above, are mere specks in the blue heaven.
THE RETURN.
Early before sunrise we
left
Granada, taking the same road
408
as that
and
by which we had entered.
when
just
the
first
It
was on a lovely morning,
touches of the rosy-fingered Aurora
were penciling- the peaks of the Nevada with hues of flushing

beauty, and entoning the fleecy clouds of vapor that rolled
from
mountain
off the
tops, like puffs of
The opening dawn
sacrificial fires.
perfumed incense from
cast a pink veil over the
emerald green of the vega, and spreading
its
length beyond
borders, burnished the towers of the receding city,
burst with
splendor
full
its
and then
upon the vermilion tower of the
Alhambra.
After crossing the
seen,
and hence the
hill
La
of
spot, not far
Mala, Granada ceases to be
from
suspiro del Moro, for here Boabdil,
this, is called,
January
2,
El
ultimo
1492, sighed his
last farewell.
The banner
all
was
reign
king.
of
Santiago floated on his red towers, and
Behind was an Eden,
lost.
like the glories of his past
before, a desert, cheerless as the prospects of a dethroned
Then, as tears burst from his water-filled eyes, he was
reproached by 'Ayeshah, his mother, whose

"
the calamity.
Thou
dost well to
which thou hast not defended

dote was
Emperor, "for a tomb

in the Alpuj arras."
but not
for long.
into Africa,
losing his
D.
ii.
like
told to Charles Y., "
is
life
in the
weep
rivalries
like
a man."
She spake
Alhambra
is
had caused
woman
When
for that
this anec-
well," observed the
better than a palace
Thither, and to Purchena, Boabdil retired,
He
sickened in his
exile,
and, passing over
said to have been killed in a petty battle, thus
for another's quarrel.
Gayangos, however, (Moh.
390,) has ascertained that he lived at Fez until 1538, leav-
ing children.
His posterity was long to be traced
there, but re-
duced to the lowest poverty, existing as beggars on the charity

doled out at the mosque-doors
a sad reverse of fortune, and a
ROUND THE MARCHAN SWEEPS.
melancholy conclusion of the
409
Mahommedan
brilliant
dynasty
in Spain.
Do
not return to Granada by the same road; but, passing
through the pretty village of Otrusa, cross the rivulet Dilar

to Zubia, to which, during the siege, Isabella rode to
have
a view of the Alhambra
while she halted in the house with
Claude-like miradores, a Moorish sally

in
much
danger.
was made, and she was
In memory of her escape she erected a herwho appeared visibly for her protection,
mitage to the Virgin,
and
it still
remains amid
its cypresses.
Returning home, just
on entering the avenue of the Xenil, to the left, on its banks,
San
Sebastian, once a
Moorish Caaba, to which Ferdinand

and Isabella accompanied Boabdil on the day of Granada's
is
surrender.
Read the
The
inscription let into the wall.
ordinary Alamo, or tree, under which the
stood here, but was cut
first
extra-
mass was
down by some barbarians
said,
in 1160.
Nothing occurred to vary our return journey until within a

few miles of Alhama, except the never-failing varieties on the
mountain scenery, and we
visited with pleasure
we had omitted
spots near the baths which

out.
some pleasant
on our way
to see
I stopped an hour to bathe in the circular bath, which
runs with tepid water as in the time of the cleanly
The stream which
Moors.
fills
logical convulsions,
and
Romans and
these baths gushed from out
of one of these awful chasms in the

to this Alpine district,
still
hills
which are peculiar
affords fearful traces of strong geo-
and points of great
passed through the town of
scenic beauty.
Alhama by
Having
had now the
night, I
pleasure of remarking the prominent features of this curious

old city
the land-key of Granada.
turesque,
The place
is
wild and pic-
and perched on the edge of an awful rent
round w hich the Marchan sweeps.

r
18
The
situation
is
in the hills
fearful,
and
410
it
TRACES
broods over the abyss of the precipice upon which
securely, almost ready to

is
THE ROMAN AND MOOR.
)F
leans
it
There
tumble into the gulf beneath.
aqueduct in the square, and the sierras which back
fine
rise to the
height of 8000
feet.
At
we were
this point
joined
by a commercial party from Malaga, who had been engaged
making purchases
of
wheat
in the districts
around
it
in
this point,
and with them we returned back to Yelez Malaga, passing over

the picturesque and grand Sierras of Alhama, and the bold
chain of the Alpujarras.
We were
pleased in finding so
much
novelty and variety to
interest us while retracing our steps to this point.
Such are
the peculiar effects of light and position on landscape, and so
much have
circumstances and companionship to do with the
agreeableness of travel, that the attractions of natural scenery

are proportioned to the various dispositions and tempers of the
traveler, even in
going over a twice-trodden track.
So amid
these Salvator-Rosa like gorges which the waters have forced
through the mountain, where the rocks

like
terrific
Israelites,
rise
up on each
side
perpendicular walls, the traveler passes like the
with his
pillar of sunshine
and cloud
at times cross-
ing through lonely depths where the sun never enters, and again
emerging
We
in a
broad flood of
fiery sunshine in the wilderness.
had reached Yelez Malaga about nine
evening
o'clock in the
but what a dreadful night I spent at the old
inn,
on
the floor of the second story, and in horrible torment under the
attacks and inflictions of the gnats and musquitos that infested
my
chamber, scarcely having slept a wink during the whole
night.
Ramon
roused
me
in the
morning by daylight, and I was
glad to escape from this pest-house into the cool and refreshing
air of
the morning.
sea-side,
Our
early start soon brought us to the
and on our road to Malaga Proper.
Then, for the
MULES LADEN WITH RAISINS.
first
time, I obtained a fair view of the
411
charming sea-views that
enhance the ride along the coast, and render
The
the most delightful in Spain.
this
path one of
was very picturesque,
littoral
the eye embraces both the marine and inland prospects, and
the. entire
region abounds in objects of interest and study, which
are presented
by the culture of the
land, the characteristic of
the strata, the habits of the people, and the peculiar

the country.
traffic of
During the whole morning we were entertained
by troops of merry muleteers
whom we
passed on the way,
and as we listened to the wild choruses and
their fitful shouts
to the mules, which were laden with boxes of fresh

raisins,
we lacked no
Malaga
The
society on our return to the port.
narrow bridle-run which led over the
soon brought us
hills
within sight of our destination, and shortly after sunrise the
the delights of our journey were crowned by the picturesque
portion of
Malaga
the circuits of
the
its
resting
own
Alhama beyond.
on
native
its
hills,
how
hemmed
and
trot,
in
by
still
overcome by the
lingering under the
was to be
delightful evening in the society of
Mr. Carr,
refreshing and grateful
quietly settled at the inn of the
recital of his life
Alameda
!"
who amused
us in Mr. King's
and adventures
in Africa, I arose
our former Consul at Tripoli,
in the
lay
it
ravages of the insects,
room by a
it
and the bordering spurs of
After such a
fatigues of a hurried journey,
Having spent a
bay, as
morning and made preparations
for
my
departure by
the steamer.
September found me leaving the harbor of Malaga, with a

full
The weather was a little

Our vessel
the previous night.
view of the port and the town.
rough
after
the
storm of
steamed gallantly out to
sea,
but after taking her course
hugged the shore during the passage.
The
still
coast was kept

412
constantly in sight during the day, and gave us a clear view

of the magnificent borders of rocks which limit Spain on the
Owing
southern part of her territory.
head-wind we made
to the prevalence of a
progress during the
little
day, and
first
except the ever-varying outline of the magnificent mountains
on the coast, the experience of our
first
journal would have
been very monotonous.
We
scarcely touched at the
along on the second day.
Bay
of Almeria, as
Roman and
This port, under both
Moor, was the great port of
traffic
between Italy and the
East, and one of the richest manufacturing towns

its
Moorish independent
eulogist,
Italy.
It
Ibn Maymam,
it
but, under
was a
perfect
whose galleys ravaged the coasts of
Algiers, a pirate port,
France and
chief,
we steamed
is
"a land where
no longer, as once sang
if
its
Arabian
thou walkest, the stones are pearls,
the dust gold, and the gardens paradise."
Some
little
bustle
has been given to the decay by the arrival of the steamers as

they pass up and down the coast; and the walls of a picturesque Moorish castle which backs the town, repaired by
Charles V., running up and

of
interest
down
and revival to the
the declivities, lend an aspect
Passing the point of
port.
Almeria, the next point of attraction was the Cabo de Gatas

"
Cape Agate."
It
is
where amethysts sometimes are found.
agates,
will recollect the
landmark on
to the nautical adage,

hat."
a rock formed of crystals, spars, and
this
"At Cape
About noon we moored
wind cape,
The
since,
traveler
according
de Gat, take care of your
inside
of the wild
and dreary
" Point of the Eagles," a small place of two intersecting streets,
which nestled at the foot of a rock and a

in
some
silver,
castle,
where we took
the produce of the mines which were worked in
the Sierra of Almazarron, at some distance back of this town.
413
HARBOR OF CARTAGENA..
The mines were discovered by a poor weaver
named
of Cartagena,
Valentin, who, under the pretence of shooting, passed
days here, until near a ridge or dip he found specimens,
his
which, being assayed at Cordova, were found to be galena or
He
argentiferous lead.
named
last
imparted his secret to a townsman
Soler, as ignorant as himself of their true value.
At
poor Valentin died, and Soler formed a club to work them;
and having obtained a grant from the crown, with a competent

engineer, the shares soon after rose from 150 dollars to 60,000.
This sudden acquisition of wealth attracted thousands of com-
What
petitors.
is
seven years ago was a wild and dreary waste,
now studded with
laborers,
crowded with
buildings, traced into roads,
and nine smelting furnaces erected upon
it.
Although we reached the harbor of Cartagena about dark,
we were not permitted
to land until the next
morning at
who
This town, which nourished under the Romans,

it,
" Colonia Victrix Julia,"
is
now much
decayed.
ten.
called
Its admi-
rable port, scooped out by the mighty hand of nature, alone
remains the same; owing nothing to the care of man, nor

to be spoiled
by
his neglect
harborless coast, and
admiral of Philip
his safest
It
is
harbor
II.,
it is
the best on this eastern and
was ranked with July and August by the
when the monarch demanded which was
here even the navy of England might ride.
accurately described by Virgil,
secessu longo locus," etc.
render
The
it
The
hills
(JEn.
i.
163,)
" Est in
which fringe the bay
land-locked.
best street
is
the Calle Major.
Ruin, neglect, and
emptiness prevail everywhere, and the traveler
he walks round the
silent
is
pained while
quays and parade at the head of the
harbor, and beholds the fine marine school, a building better
than
its pupils.
The
fortifications, barracks, hospitals, arsenals,
414
extensive rope-walks, foundries, basins, and dock-yards are fine;

all
that
wanting
is
is life.
The view from
the water brackish.

is
The town
is
and the elements of hatred against
it is
La
Atalaya
man and water,
torpid
neighbor, Murcia
their
They have never forgotten
fiercely.
removal of the
On
and unhealthy, and
the heights of
However
superb and sweeps the port.
burns
dull
the
or forgiven
see.
leaving the province of Murcia, a metal-pregnant district,
as well to state here, that, although thinly populated
and
almost a desert in the parts which lack water, the Huertas
compensate by their prodigious

orange and carob
fertility,
producing the palm,
tree, silk, soda, bass-grass, red-peppers,
Its mines enabled the family of
rich wines.
war against Rome
Hannibal to make
Under the Moors, Mursiah became
itself.
El
one continuous garden, and hence was called

well as Misr, Egypt, to which
it
was compared.
lying in an out-of-the-way corner,
be the Bceotia of the south.

produced in
tural,
are
nomy
is
this
Dunciad.
alternately
African,
and
is
Few
Bostan, as
This province,
considered by Spaniards to
have ever been
illustrious
The lower
classes, chiefly agricul-
sluggish and laborious.
superstitious, litigious
Their physiog-
and revengeful; they
remark of themselves and province, that the earth and climate

are good, but
es
bueno
el
all
that
is
between them
is
El
bad.
cielo
y suelo
entre suelo malo.
Nightfall found us
on
the road-stead of
Alicante;
but
Spanish dilatoriness and their proverbial punctilio compelled

us to delay our entry into the town, until
upon by the
Alicante
castle,
and
we were waited
authorities of the port, on the following morning.
Arabice transparent
it
is
lies
under
its
rock-crowned
not seen until closely approached.
defended by a strong outwork,
el Castillo
It
is
de Fernando, by the
NO WINTER
advice
of
the
who
English,
almonds and coarse
415
ALL SUMMER.
paid for
with potash for the
raisin,
Ireland, form the commerce of
linens
The wines
this port.
wines,
Salt-fish,
it.
of
are rich,
with a rough taste combined with sweetness; they are used to
The "Huerta,"
doctor thin clarets for the British market.

garden,
is
very
The
fertile.
Here the
numerous and productive.

There
ceases.
olives are fine
and the carob-trecs
succession of crops never
no winter; one continual summer reigns
is
and Pomona
this paradise of Ceres
fevers
flies,
in
but the immediate envi-
swampy
rons are arid and unproductive, and the
Cartagena breeds plagues of
or
coast toward
and dysenteries, which
the immoderate use of the Sandia, or water-melon, encourages.

Its trade
is
no longer what
rose in consequence of
The
Algerine pirates,
worth
seeing.
We
castle,
its
castle
is
now
all
ii
from the
poor order, and not
in
We
day.
entered into
an elegant building, and found good
is
society in a reading-room,
where there was a
collection of
good
Their Colegiata, being dedicated
books, and a few newspapers.

to
which protected
remained here
the City Hall, which
This key of Valencia
was.
it
San Nicolas, brought back pleasing memories of the Knick-
erbockers and Manhattan.

Alicante, (as well as of
of poor
virgins,
Our
New
"
Old Nick/' the patron of
York,)
and a model of
or
is
fasters,
was the portioner

for,
according to
Ribadneyra, when a baby he never, during Lent, sucked before

the evening, and only once on Wednesdays and Fridays.
no doubt, accounts
for the
That,
custom of childrens' hanging their
stockings up on the night before Christmas, and for holidays
on Wednesdays, and hanging on Fridays

prettily situated
shelter of
The town was very
under the lee of the impending
its castle,
French, but
hills,
and the
which had been partially destroyed by the
we were
particularly
struck
with
the
singular
41
costume of the peasantry, which appeared to resemble that of
The
the Neapolitans.
small cap,
costume
low, button-tipped hat
worn hanging on one
and
Roman
upper
man
shirt
sleeves, while
sash, or
is
is
sandal,
or covered with stockings
origin,
are a substitute for breeches; the
clothed with a velvet or gaudy jacket, with open
is
their waists
The head and
faga.
like hair
plaid
hempen
the
Bragas, or large, loose and short linen drawers,
feet.
of classical
men wear
the
for
The male
The many-colored
are either naked,
their legs
without
side of the head.
antique and Asiatic.
is
cast over the right shoulder
changed
is
bound with a
silk
by a gay
are girdled
silken
their long, lanky, red, Indian-
handkerchief, which looks in the
distance like a turban.
This Valencia, although one of the smallest provinces in
The mountains
Spain, yields in fertility and delight to none.
abound
marbles and minerals.
in
Cinnabar
found in the
is
many places; marbles and jaspers at Cervera;

Zeldo.
To invalids and consumptive patients the
Crevicta; iron in
and lead at
climate
far
is
superior
to
delicious softness in the air,
undergoes no change.
that
of Italy;
which
there
is
a most
so dry withal, that salt
is
Frosts are almost unknown, whilst the
sea-breeze tempers the summer-heats, and the fresh mountains

offer
is
verdurous retreats.
by the Turia, or Guadalaviar
irrigated
This great vein

capital, it
The Huerta, most
is
is
so drained or bled, that
almost as dry.
truly the garden,
the
when
white
it
river.
reaches the
The Moors bequeathed
to the
Yalencians their hydraulic science, by which they exercised a
magic control of water; wielding at
do
all
but
irrigations.
We
call
their bidding, they could
clown the rains from heaven, that best of
The network of
artificial
have dwelt longer than usual on
canals
this
is
all
admirable.
head, because the
4H
PROCESS OF IRRIGATING LANDS.
Royal Canal on the Incar, and the whole water system deserves
the closest examination of our engineers and architects.
happy
artist will find
noria and the
subjects for his pencil in the picturesque
water-wheel,
large
descends into the well, and as
Thus
supplies all the smaller veins.
which basks
sun in calling into

is
man
The produce, even when the land
life.
almost incredible.
culture
knows no
never weary of sowing, nor the
is
Thus, in one year, four, nay,
Rice
crops are raised in succession.
The
irrigated, the rich, alluvial
in the never-failing irritating sun,
agricultural repose;
poor,
is
and
The province produces

and
and grapes.
staple,
wine,
The honey
is
The animal
in
boiling water; the process
is
}
figs,
another
is
is
then destroyed
silk, for
tissue,
mantillas
The profusion
of
fruit,
the
one with the painters of Valencia,
the
of the
color
as the rich
glass, just
was with Murillo
Valencia
and cereal productions; corn and
brought from the Castiles and Aragon.

18*
brown
Andalucia, or the
in
chorize tint with Morales in Estramadura.

cient in animal
oranges
wind out the golden
The Raso and black
makers of azalejos and stained

color of Seville
flax,
nasty; but as the peasants,
is
mulberries has rendered the purple
olla
and
equal to anything in Europe.
morado, a favorite
hemp,
dates,
Silk
delicious.
spins its cocoon,
seated under their vines and
and say as
barrilla, esparto,
covered with white mulberry, " food
worms."
perfect.
oil,
also
is
for
is
their
in
pullets in rice.
especially figs, almonds,
fruits,
and the Huerta
the picture
five
was introduced by the Moors, and the grain enters
polios con arrcz
cochineal,
is
the great cereal staple.
largely into the national cuisine of the Yalencians,

pilafs
jars,
discharges the contents
rises
it
armed with
which,
In the Huerta of Valencia, the main trunk
into a reservoir.
plain,
The
The
is
defi-
cattle are
over-irrigation
418
diminishes the flavor of the vegetables, which lose in quality
what they gain
Hence the proverb
in quantity.
and
la
things:
La came
mager nadaP
ethereal
es
This
yerba, la yerba agua,

is
allusive to the
Yalencian men, women,
aqueous, unsubstantial character of
el
homhre mujer,
a mere play upon words, for these
women, whose minds and bodies are supposed
to
much more than nothing, and the cuisine is

Those who eat the national u Polios con arroz" will
evaporate, are
excellent.
never talk more about the mere " idea of a dinner," facetious
travelers to the contrary notwithstanding; as for the
women,
they will speak for themselves.
The
sea-coast, like that of the west of the Peninsula, is the
terror of mariners.
The upper
classes are
the Yalencian has

literature.
Under
among
the most polished of Spain, and
always distinguished himself in art and
Moors
the
of theological science
this province
was the repository
under the Spaniards
it
boasts of
San
Vicente, whose miracles have employed the Yalencian artists;
and of the learned
who
mus.
lived
divine,
and learned
Yalencia
is
also
Juan Luis Yives, the Spanish Bacon,
in Oxford,
and was the
friend of Eras-
proud of her poet, Christobal Virues,
and of Guillon de Castro, the dramatist; while her Juanes,

Rlbalto, Ribera, Orrente and March, form a school of painters
second only to that of Seville.
The lower
classes are fond of pleasure, the song,
dance, their " roundabout" rondalla

called la fiera.
They dance
dulzana, a sort of
and
Moorish
well,
and the
the national dance
is
and to the tamboril and
clarionet,
requiring strong lungs
ears.
In darker shades of character the Valencians resemble both

their Celtiberian
and Carthaginian ancestors; they are cunning,
YALEXCIAX WOMEN.
and
perfidious, vindictive, sullen
Theirs
ous.
mistrustful, fickle
good
Devil's
and treacher-
a sort of tiger-monkey character, of cruelty
is
smooth, so gay, yet empty of
allied to frivolity; so blithe, so

all
419
nor can their pleasantry be trusted,
good humor,
it
like
for,
depends on their being pleased; at the
least rub, they pass, like the laughing hyena, into a snarl
bite:
nowhere
assassination
is
murder while they
the
more common; they
The infamous
smile.
and
smile,
Caesar Borgia
and
was a
true Valencian, as were his chosen sicarios and bravos: their

leader, Michalot de Prades, has
armed company of
bequeathed
his
name
to the
Migueletes.
Their physiognomy
The burning sun not only
African.
is
tans their complexions, but excites their nervous system; hence
they are highly
irritable,
imaginative and superstitious.
Their
great joys and relaxations are religious shows, pasos, pageants-,
and church
processions, cars, acted miracles
Miracles of
first
among
San
The
spectacles.
Vicente Ferrer, the tutelar of the city, ranks
these street festivals, in which
little
children play
a great part, dressed like angels, and really looking like those
creatures of which
grow up
Heaven
is
composed, although some of them
The Dia
to be devils incarnate.
cession of Christ present in the Sacrament,
de
is
Corpus, or pro-
the sight of Spain,
and accordingly has always been brought out to amuse the

princes,
whenever they chanced
occasion,
to be in
one
Fedinand VII., the beloved, having expressed a pious
curiosity, the incarnate
was paraded out
to
Deity, locally present, as they believe,
amuse such a mortal.
The Valencian women,
especially those of the middle
better classes in the capital, are
plexioned as their mates
among
On
Valencia.
by no means
singularly
so dark
well-formed,
the prettiest and most fascinating in
all
and
cora-
they are
Spain.
They
420
work
at
sit
open
in the
streets,
and
as they
wear nothing on
their heads but their hair, " their glory," they have rather a
Their ornaments are most classical
dressy look.
hair
gilt
is
pierced with a silver-gilt pin
the roll of
they wear also the
silver-
comb, and one of a singular triangular-shape, called la
and the
little
As
cross.
llase,
they are very superstitious, talismans and
horns and hands are carried about the person, the old
phallic antidote for the evil eye,
el
mal de
ojo,
which
is
as
much
dreaded here as among the Moors and Neapolitans.
One
of our companions,
and started
left us,
who had accompanied
us thus far,
for the interior in a peculiar-shaped vehicle
that resembled a covered butcher's cart, or an ungreased and
canopied Irish jaunting-car running on two wheels, and con-
ducted or drawn by one horse

locomotion
among
uncommonly
We
left
this
is
the preferred
mode
the middle classes of this province, and
of
it is
well suited to the roads.
Alicante about four o'clock in the afternoon, and
were towed out from the shore to the steamer, which lay tossing
about and exposed to the open sea in the roadstead, and early
on the following morning we arrived at the port of Valencia.
Having landed
vehicle,
is
hired a tartan a,
common Valencian
which resembles a dark-green covered cart
the Turkish Araha.
gondola on wheels, and,
It
may be compared
like
that,
often contains a deal of fun, like
funeral
the
is
over.
Mediterranean
The name
is
the type
to a Venetian
though forbidding-looking,
mourning coaches when the
taken from a sort of felucca, or
craft.
Riding away from the Grao
in this go-cart,
drawn through the Huerta, covered with shade

entered the city by the Gate of the Cid, which
the largest tobacco-factory of the place, having
was quickly
trees, until
is
we
situated near
first
crossed a
FIRST THING THE CID DID.
now dry
bridge suspended over the
my
421
As
Turia.
bad engaged
driver for the day, I struck a path immediately for the
Cathedral, determined to see the only and great lion of this
Now
Valencia del Cid.
the
first
thing which the Cid did, on
capturing Valencia, was to take his wife and daughters up to a
and show them
height,
the glories.
all
the Cathedral tower, which
which were
its bells,
first
hung on
isolated octagonal Gothic

stone,
162
enough:
is
belfry,
This
St. Michael's Feast.

is
me
Micalcte, because of
built with
a brownish
and disfigured by a modern
feet high,
panorama thence
El
called
is
Ascend, then, with
very striking, the bright sky
The
top.
itself is
wonder
a glimpse of the glory of heaven, an atmosphere of
it is
golden light which Murillo alone could paint, when wafting his
blessed Yirgin into paradise.
The
air is also so clear
See how the town
that distant objects appear as if quite close.

is
disposed in the
map
at your feet.
The
and dry
streets are so
narrow
that the openings scarcely appear amid the irregular
packed
roofs, of
which many are
flat
close-
with cane-cages for pigeons,
of which the Yalencians are great fanciers
and
No
shooters.
portion of Spain presents so fertile an aspect as the green
carpet of the Huerta surrounding the city on

stretching
rise
the
its
thickly
hills
amid blue and
of Marviedo,
white-tiled
domes
This view, in extent and beauty,

its
culture of the rice-fields,
verdure reminded
is
me
the great
cathedral has
is
to the north are
and
without parallel in
their rolls of vivid
of the great plains of

bell,
Alhambra, gives warning of
The
spires
studded with farm-houses and cottages thatched like
tents.
Michilate
and
and the mountains of Saguntum, the
is
sides,
The
velvet beauties even to the sea-shore.
Huerta
Europe
all
little
La
Lombardy.
Vela, which, like
In
that of the
irrigation periods.
to attract internally save
its
Corin-
422
thian pulpit of carved walnut, and some few paintings of the

celebrated masters.
Gothic has been marred by
Its original
the frequent attemps to modernize
low
its inside
and
interior roof spoils the effect of the naves.
cular end
is
out, while its
Behind the
cir-
the gay and gaudy chapel of Muestra Seiiora de los
Desamparados, the Yirgin of the unprotected, to w hom the

T
generals applied in times of danger, instead of putting their

shoulders to the wheel.
this
When
the French entered Yalencia,
image of the Yirgin wore three gold
The Marques de
the rank of Captain-General.
commander
mother
emblems of
los Palacios,
of the city, took no other steps of defence than
laying his baton at
round the
bars, the
its feet.
walls, the
It
was then carried
in procession
whole population exclaiming, " The divine
will protect us !"
Continuing our drive through some of the principal

>ve
found our way to the Calk de
The Yalencian houses are
street.
an
los Caballeros,
air of solid nobility.
streets,
the aristocratic
and have
substantially built,
large portal opens into the pateo,
with arched colonnades, which are frequently
elliptical
the
staircases are remarkable for their rich banisters,
and the win-
dows are
style,
either Gothic or formed in the
Ajimez
single slender shaft dividing the aperture
the long lines of
open arcades under the roofs give an Italian lightness.

ever a house
is
taken down,
view of widening the
it is
street.
rebuilt mansions are uniform
balconies.
Pedro Perez, has
gatherum of art and antiquity.

class,
filled his
The
although the geese here are
are at the top of the house
None
should omit
Plaza San Yicente.
visiting the collection del Peluguero,
hair-dresser,
When-
obliged to be set back, with a
The
and common-place, with rows of
with a
This
house with an omnium
pictures are not of a high

all
a Christ
swans.
The
least
bad
Teaching, Leonardo (?);
A LEARNED BARBER.
423
a Christ Scourged, Morales (?); a Christ and Soldiers, Velazquez (?); a Xeiio Dios and Saint John, MareOo (?).
The
Spanish and Celtiberian coins were good until the good peruquier polished off the venerable aerugo, lathering and shaving
them, as
it
were
sale to foreigners
common
fate in Spain,
when
offered for
by peasants, who, with a view to commending
their wares, polish
them
bright,
and rub
off the precious
bloom,
the patina and aerugo, the very thing which makes them valua-
the
sacred rust of twice ten hundred
ble to
the antiquary
years.
This numismatic Figaro
himself, however, like old
is
Tradescant, the most curious of his
rarities.
This Figaro of
taste has lately laid aside his razors, having been appointed
" Conserge " to the
Plaza
Academy
of
Koble Arts of San
Carlos,
some secondary objects of
de las Barcas, where are
and bad pictures with good names, and some
art,
portraits of the
poets from the monastery Murta.
personage in this land of Figaro.
Suchet, too, who shaved
Yalencia pretty well, began
life
In the Calle San Vicente
quier.
who has
also
some barbaric
barber, however,
is
as an apprentice to a perulives
pictures,
a hatter,
el
Sombrerero,
which he shows readily to
strangers.
We
were
knew two
similar characters in America, both of

in
celebrities
tailor, of Cincinnati,
main
streets,
their
respective towns.
whom
Piatt Evans, a
has built a bijoux of a house on one of the
and having
filled it
with objects of virtu and
art,
takes a pride in showing his gallery of paintings and curiosities

to any stranger
all his
who happens
to visit
him
in the
West.
Truly
geese have been turned into swans by his industry; and
his well
peopled aviary, on the top of his house,
is
a palace of
singing birds.
Every one
is
familiar with
the renown of the celebrated
424
Dowse, of Cambridgeport, another creditable instance of the

cultivation of letters
toil
and cares of
daily
Mr. Dowse, by dint of industry and good
mechanical labor.
fortune,
and art amid the
had not only succeeded
accumulating a small and
in
valuable gallery of water-colors, which had been painted for the
Academy, but
British
in obtaining the ownership of the best
By
part of Bishop Heber's library.
every elegant edition as
it
adding daily to his stock
issued from his booksellers, he
length procured a collection which
is
had at
second to few in this
To the honor of his sound and good judgment, it is

well known that he reads them.
The future possession of so rich and precious a treasure had
country.
necessarily led to
an inquiry as to
With due apology
demise.
its
probable fate after his
to this amiable gentleman
and
scholar for suggesting even a hint at his dissolution, I would

close this notice
by a current anecdote, which would be
likely
to allay any curiosity thus excited.
The
faculty of Harvard,
it
seems, once held this question of
made,
inheritance under discussion, a proposition having been

as reported, that the conferring of a high college
in a degree
Gore Hall.
compensate for the translation of
The high
honor would
this library into
sense of the dignity of the University
arose to prevent the grant of an application which savored
somewhat of the
taint of a bribe
at a loss to conceive
how
the
title
and the sages
in council
were
of L. L. D. could be properly
granted to one whose pretensions to learning were chiefly based
on
his peculiar skill in the dressing of
be done," said one professor
sheep skin.
"Non detur,"
president shook his head like Jove.
" It can not
spoke another.
"Ha!
The
ha!" exclaimed
the amiable Justice Story, rubbing his hands, and raising his
spectacles
"
;
Why
not,
gentlemen
Why
not in
all
equity
MISERERE ON FRIDAY.
give
him the L. L. D.
It
is
proper
425
you
don't
see that
it
stands for Literary Leather Dresser ?"
The learned Dowse
still lives
the stand-post sign, surmounted by a
on a
in front of the store, quite
second floor
wooden
sheep, remains
with the library on the
level
and Gore Hall yet
Cambridge, and
at the port of
survives, lifting its granite
towers upon the college green, and sullenly, solemnly and

silently
looms up toward the sky
an old feudal
like
castle in
the middle ages.
The
Colegio de Corpus, or del Patriarca,
He
Ilibaltas.
is
generally called "
been canonized in 179T.

college
was
built
del Rey, after,
the walls
again are
is
said, a
of the
plan of
"blacked through the smoke" of the
but the daylight was purposely excluded by desire
of the founder,
who wished
to give the impressiveness of
The
gious obscurity to the ceremonies.
morning
it
somewhat dark, the windows being very small
It
incense
El Santo Rihera^ having
The noble Corinthian chapel
by Anton
Herrera.
is
a museum of
is
is
miserere
reli-
on a Friday
one of the most impressive services of Spain
there at ten, as soon after the darkling chapel
is
be
rendered
darker by drawing blinds over the windows and shutting the

doors, to exclude also the idle trifler
the high altar
mourning
is
now covered with a
none stand near
it
the whole space above
purple
pall,
the color of
save the silent choristers
next
an aged priest approaches and prostrates himself; then
all
At
the
kneel on the ground, and the solemn chant begins.

first
verse the picture above the altar descends
unseen machinery, and the vacancy

with yellow stripes
and
discloses
is
supplied
as the chant proceeds this
by a
by a
is
noiseless
lilac
veil
withdrawn,
one of a faint gray, which, when removed disco-
vers another of deep black,
and then
after a lengthened pause
426
.
another and the
The imagination
last.
a breathless curiosity, which
thus worked up
is
into'
heightened by the tender feeling
is
breathed out in that most beautiful of penitential psalms.
Then
at once the last veil of the temple
is,
as
it
were, rent
asunder, and the Saviour appears dying on the cross

chral light
is
cast on the brow, on
a sepul-
w hich a sweat
T
agony
of
seems to mantle, while "the shadow of death hangs on the

eyelid."
is
(Job 16:16.)
It
is
the reality of the. Crucifixion, and
too harrowing to be long looked at
and the
of silvery voices strikes up,

spectacle which
ened
is
but soon a distant quire
pall
is
closed again over a
not to be profaned by irreverent or length-
curiosity.
The
sculptor should examine this crucifix as a
and by application to the
and a
rector,
managed.
nothing
The carving
known
is
of
closed to the
the
feet,
solemn scene-shifting
this
one of the
is
finest in
Spain, but
It belonged to the founder,
from the
his express order, as a relic,
number of miracles which

;
all
origin.
its
and was placed here by
wood
is
get a ladder and lights, and then will be revealed the
ropes and contrivances by which

is
of art
fee to the sacristan, it
can be seen in the afternoon, when the chapel

public
work
it
worked.
extremities,
The material
a dark
is
and anatomy are very
fine
observe the broad modeling of the forehead, and the lines
about the mouth, where character resides

represented,
the absence
of
life,
which
is
as death
is
here
so felt in painted
sculpture, does not offend.
The whole church deserves a

Ribalta
left is
is
as
here
in the first chapel to the
one of his masterpieces, and painted in a style between
Titian and
sick
properly to be estimated
careful inspection,
Vandyke
u
;
San Vicente de Ferrer,
bed by our Saviour and Saints
he
rises
on
visited
on
his
his pallet, his
SPAGN0LETT0 ARTIST.
421
expression of humble gratitude contrasts with the kindness and
sympathy exhibited
him
towards,,
the light
unfortunately
is
bad.
Since the suppression of the convents a national
museum has
been established in the former Carmen, where the great Yalencian school
may
really
be studied and appreciated
contains
it
600 or 700 pictures, of which the vast majority are worthless.
The
chief painters to be
Spanish Raphael
ish
then Francisco de Ribalta,
who
is
the Span-
He
Domenichino and Sebastian del Piombo combined.
San Yicente de
the painter of
local subject
Ferrer,
There
i.
e.,
is
cloisters,
with whose works
artists
it
so wor-
a picture, probably by Ribalta,
Magdalen Chapel, Oxford, although even
penetrated into those
was
a local painter of a
was of the Conception,
just as Murillo
shipped by Sevillians.
in
observed are Yicente Juanes, the
his
and the picture
name has not

is
ascribed to
has not even a remote resemblance.
Another great Yalencian, Josef Ribera, (Spagnoletto,) was

a pupil of Ribalta.
He
painted cruel martyr subjects in a
decided Caravaggio style of marked shadows and
Pedro
lights.
Orrente, the Bassano of Spain, and as monotonous and multiplied,
was born at Monte Alegre about 1560, and died
He
Toledo, 1644.
of Shepherds
subjects well
principally painted cattle
and Adorations
although he was a mannerist, he colored his low
he was the master of Pablo Pontons, whose
tures are seldom seen out of Yalencia,
a painter of battle-pieces,
who
died here in 1660
became
both these
These pastoral
tures are as tiresome as pastoral poetry, which then

:
was
Scripture was degraded by peasant forms

accessories to cattle
there
pic-
and of Esteban March,
imitated the Bassanos through Orrente.
fashion
at
may be
all
pic-
the
angels
the merit of truth
to ordinary nature, but divine subjects require a more epic
428
The
treatment.
Zarifienas are another Valencian family of
Yalencia has produced no great
painters of second-rate merit.

sculptor.
Among
Saviour
the best pictures by Juanes are three pictures of our
Santo Domingo, in a
observe especially that from
violet dress
a magnificent San Francisco de Paula, in a brown
on
dress leaning
his
from Los Minimos.
staff,
Remark, by
San Yicente Preaching, from Santo Domingo
Ribalta,
San
Francisco, from Los Capuchinos ; a Cardinal, by Espinosa
Holy Family
a St. Jerome
an Assumption, from
Santo
Domingo; a San Jose, from Los Agostinos ; by El Bosco

(Jerome Bosch of Bois
from Santo Domingo
and
at the Pillar,
Jaime
with
I.,
its
the
or
La
Crowning with Thorns, the Christ
Garden
in the
inquire for the altar of
singular old paintings.
San Juan
Visit the church of

cion,
Due), the three singular pictures
le
to see the celebrated Concep-
Parisima, which formerly was in the Compania,
having been painted for

circumstances
The
Jesuitas,
los
and under the following
Virgin appeared in person to the Jesuit
Martin de Alvaro, and desired him to have her painted exactly
He
as he 'then beheld her.

details of the vision
applied to Juanes, giving
many
the artist, after
failures,
all
the
by the
advice of Alvaro, confessed and went through a long religious

exercise,
was
and then produced
finished,
fied.
this picture
the Yirgin,
when
descended from heaven and expressed herself
Charles IY. wished to remove
it
to
it
satis-
Madrid when he
founded her order, but refrained from fears of a popular out-
The
break.
innocent
figure
is
colossal,
but the expression
is
on each side are emblems and mottoes
meek and
allusive to
her manifold perfections.
The
principal plaza, called
El Mercado,
is
in the heart of the
429
GOTHIC SILK HALL.
city,
and contains
well supplied,
Here
Here the Cid and
only fountain.
its
executed their prisoners without
trial
Sucliet
The market
or mercy.
is
and the costume of the peasants very picturesque.
the Lonja de Seda, the silk hall, a beautiful Gothic
is
The saloon
building of 1842.
spirally-fluted columns.
This
is
is
has a pretty court attached to
magnificent, and supported
by
the chamber of commerce, and
where the beautiful Gothic
it,
windows, medallions, with heads and coronet-like battlements,

are
much
to be admired.
Valencia abounds in pleasant walks; among which are the
Paseo de
it
into a
la Glorieta, laid out
and planted by
garden of Hesperus, a
and one that leads
locality
Elio,
made
who converted
by Suchet
desert
to the river, or rather the river-bed, for
it is
so drained for irrigation, that, excepting at the period of the

rains, it scarcely suffices for
bridge of
La
washerwomen.
Crossing over the
Trinidad, a massy construction, with strong piers,
which seems a
sinecure,
from the want of water underneath,
El Real, the royal residence of the viceroys, which was pulled down in the wars, and the space since
converted into a pleasant plantation. The river now divides
you reach the
site of
the Glorieta from the long avenues of the delightful Alameda,
whose shady over-arching branches continue

grades, or steps, to the sea.
This agreeable drive
of the natives,
who
The want
good seaport as an
is
of a
to
flock here in the
a great drawback to Valencia.
summer
El Grao,
is
is
much exposed
the lounge
for sea-bathing.
outlet for her productions,
Large sums of money have
been expended in the attempt to make a port of

roadstead, which
this
sandy
to gales from the south
southwest; but the French invasion arrested the work.
mole was to have been pushed forward
and batteries at each extremity.
the
in
two
piers,
and
The
with towers
The temporada, or season
430
of the baths,
a gay period.
is
The bathing-houses
are thatched
with rice straw.
The road
which convey
sexes to their immersion, hissing hot like
The Grao waters
horse-shoes.
and to cure confirmed
heart,
Knowing
boatman
of
all
then thronged with tartanas,
is
the
of the
are said to soften the female
sterility.
we had no dispute
Grao, who rowed us back
to settle with the
tariff,
to the steamer; for
Grao are the
the rascally tribe of watermen, those of the
all
most unconscionable, and having embarked on board the

in
vessel,
a few moments we passed out of the roadstead with a
stiff
gale ahead and heavy swell behind us.
The next morning's

which afforded
little
sail
bore us along an uninteresting coast,
to interest, until
we came
within a few
was
leagues of Barcelona, where the
first
the prominent headland of the
saw-headed mountain Mont-
serrat,
celebrated
so
among
image of the Yirgin, and
was made by
50,
by
the faithful for
its
sanctimonious virtues.
Luke, and brought to Barcelona
St.
St. Peter.
invading
its
object of attraction
In 717, the Goths hid
Moors, where
remained
it
until
it
miraculous
The image
in the
year
away from the
880,
when some
shepherds were attracted to the spot by heavenly lights and

singing angels
thereupon the bishop of Yigue came in person,
and being guided by a sweet

but
it
built
refused to be
smell,
found the image in a cave
moved; whereupon a small chapel was
on the spot, on which
it
remained 160 years.
A nunnery
was then founded, which in 976 was converted into a Benedictine convent.
It
in
is
its
rudely carved out of dark wood, and holds the child

lap;
the
dress
and wardrobe are most
splendid,
emperors and kings vied with the devout in pious
Night and day,
lights
as
offerings.
blazed before the graven image in
431
LEGEND OF THE VIRGIN^ CAVE.
seventy-four
precious
lamps,
by the
which were plundered
French.
The legend runs thus
towards the end of the ninth century,
the devil entered the body of Riquilda, daughter of Wifred

so the father sent her to
el velloso,
Juan Guarin, the hermit
The tempta-
the Virgin's cave, in order to have her exorcised.

tion
was too great
and
moment
in one
the exorciser canceled
The dread
a chastity of a century's duration.
his first crime led to the perpetration of
of discovery of
a second, and he next
cut the throat of his violated victim, and fled to
the pope ordered him to go back on
up
all fours,
Rome.
There
and never to look
Thus punished, he almost
pardoned by Heaven.
until
of
degenerated into a wild creature, and at length was found by
Wifred when out hunting; at the end of seven years a voice

from heaven told him to look up, he did
human form and
senses.
.miracle,
The
"Mons
and she became the
first
extraordinary mountain
ding-stone,
It rises
it
called
is
it
is,
moment
of
at the
chiefly of pud-
The
being some eight leagues in circumference.
consisting of cones,
More than 500
trees are
quasi
indeed, jagged as
was thus rent
magnificent
The
outline
is
most
pyramids, buttresses, nine-pins,
sugar-loaves, which are here jumbled
mood.
Monserrat,
an isolated grey mass,
pinnacles range about 3300 feet high.

fantastic,
with only a red rim
alive,
abbess of the convent.
Serratus," ITpiovmog, and
the crucifixion.
his
her virginity also was restored by a very great
The legends say that
saw.
and recovered
Guarin now led the count to the
mountain, where Riquilda reappeared
on her throat
so,
by nature
different plants
grow
in
a sportive
here.
The box-
from these the monks carved spoons,
which, stained with red, were sold to pilgrims to assist digestion,
and nothing eaten out of them ever disagreed.
On
the
432
Virgin's day, September
sometimes 3000 people went up to
8,
her shrine.
When
the heights are gained by land, the views become
Manresa and the Pyrenees.
extensive, sweeping over the sea to
Here and
there,
perched
like nests of the solitary eagle, are
the ruins of former hermitages, burnt by the French.

extensive convent
on a
The
ride
Fonda
in
a carriage will find at Colbato an
de Monserrat, where
to the convent
which flows
from Barcelona takes from ten to twelve
Those who come
hours.
The
placed under a tremendous rocky screen,
sort of esplanade, overlooking the Llobregat,
deep below.
inn,
is
you can
hire mules to ascend
the charge for each, up and down,
is
two
Formerly strangers were received by the monks, who
pesetas.
had a separate range of buildings
Now
tously.
to lodge pilgrims gratui-
reform has swept away both
although a sort of accommodation
is
monk and welcome,
to be had, being paid for,
from a person placed to show the present abomination of deso-
Bring your provend.
lation.
On
one side of the entrance patio
is
part of the old edifice,
and some crumbling sepulchres; the ruined
cloisters,
gardens,
walks, are overrun with nettles; as above these rise rocks of a

terrible perpendicular, a
mass was always said to the Virgin to
prevent their falling on the convent, which a portion once did,
and destroyed the infirmary: the chapel

crated.
site,
now
sadly dese-
The Retablo was carved by Esteban Jordan
magnificent Reja
this
is
see the
is
by Christobal de Salamanca, 1518.
mural inscription,
in
the
On
1522, Loyola watched
before the Virgin, previously to dedicating himself to her as
her knight, and the founding his order of Jesuits
sword on her
he laid his
altar.
The jagged Monserrat towers
in the distance,
from whence
LOYOLA, THE JESUIT.
433
the Virgin smiled continually at San Ignacio, while doing
penance in
his
cave at Manresa.
This neighborhood
mately connected with one of the greatest characters
whose
life
we
will
now
is inti-
in history;
briefly sketch.
Ignacio Loyola, born in Guipuzcoa in 1491, began
life
as a
and was wounded by the French during the siege of

Pamplona in 1521. He was cured by St. Peter, who came
soldier,
down from heaven on

lives
and legends of
and,
first,
During
purpose.
and determined on a
saints,
he read the
his illness
spiritual career,
did penance a year in a cave, the Yirgin having
Having dedicated himself
actually reconceived him.
Monserrat, he went to Paris, collected a few
proceeded to
Rome
to her at
disciples,
and
to ask for papal permission to found his
society, our Saviour " appearing to him in person, to promise his
Constituted by a bull in 1540, the order rapidly
assistance."
Loyola was the chief
extended.
He
July 31, 1556, aged 63.
March
12,
1622.
for fifteen years,
and died
was recognized by Gregory XT.,
It has been calculated that
the Jesuits'
property in Spain, under Charles III., was worth more than

three millions sterling.
mighty
21,
for kings
The
and popes
1173, by Ganganelli.
March
at
length became too
and the order was annulled July
They were expelled from Spain,
31, 1767, under circumstances of singular perfidy
cruelty.
detailed
No
Jesuits
How
by Blanco White, 'Doblado Letters/
artist
Roelas.
Aranda managed the blow with Charles
and
III.
is
pp. 445.
ever painted the stealthy grimalkin Jesuit like
Ribalta imitated Sebastian del Piombo, and took the
Schidoni look of these "
men
Loyola adopted
costume of his order the usual dress
worn
in
for the
in black
from under the ground."
Spain by the secular clergy, which consists of a black
gown and a huge
hat, a yard long, turned

19
up at the
sides
it ia
434
the dress of
Don
Ba'silio in
however, can understand the
the Marriage of Figario
as connected
fine arts of Spain,
with the Jesuits, without reading his authorized

Santo, Mereniberg/
Mad. 1636, 3rd
is
opens to view with

Catalonian towers.
It
is
or plain, girded by fresh
of walls
Vida
del
in
moun-
a graceful
terming pronionitory of
crowned by the Citadel.
its lines
'
interest, the
and follow the coast
succession of undulations until the
Montjuich, wT hich
life,
ed.
After passing these points of remarkable

tains assume a bolder outline,
none,
and
Barcelona soon
fortifications,
and
its
admirably situated on a rich "pla,"

hills,
and irrigated and
fertilised
by
The advantages
town being a plaza de armas. The
the Llohregat and the canals Condal y Real.

are counterbalanced
The
by the
garrison precautions impede free ingress and egress
place
is
exposed to
sieges,
and
its
proportions, limited
the
by the
outworks, cannot be extended to meet a growing prosperity

hence, in addition to their turbulent rebellious tendencies, the
Barcelonese have always been anxious to pull down their

French-erected fortifications, or strait-jackets
now,
may be
their Gallic predilections, they
whatever, just
have no wish to
imitate the re-Bastilement of Paris.
A fine sunset, lavishing its spendors over the
noble and bold
form of Monserrat and the other mountains on the
an
air of
before
effect,
coast, lent
grandeur and magnificence to the aspect of the port,
we came
to a mooring alongside the quay
a charming
which was rather heightened by the beautiful appearance
of numerous villas of the citizens which crowned the summit of
the environing
I
hills.
had no sooner landed than I went
the Rambla, where I enjoyed a very
Opera of Macbeth.
The Liceo
fair
to the
new
theatre on
representation of the
claims to be the largest edifice
SCENES BEYOND THE GATES.
of the kind in Europe,
La
435
and disputes the supremacy of
Scala in Milan, and San Carlos at Naples.
there
is
may
this
and there was but one
for the
They say that
arrangement of
be, the
and the disposition of the boxes, were

other,
with
scarcely an area of four feet in the difference between
However
them.
size
far preferable to the
the house
fault,
proper conveyance of the sound.
who
a brilliant array of beauty,
was too large
The palcos presented
displayed themselves in the
intervals
between the
ridors, or
when taking refreshments
promenading along the
acts, while
was gorgeously arranged on the
this building,
cor-
in the
grand saloon, which
first floor.
Verdi was as com-
posite as ever.
Having returned
to the vessel after the

fine
my
promenade made by
first
Alameda with
The
trees.
tume presented upon

Europe.
On
on
up the channel of a stream

and converting
city,
variety of
renders
it,
night,
walk was down the Rambla, a
filling
which once ran through the
Opera that
it
into
an
character and cos-
life,
attractions unequalled in
its
the side are most of the elegant houses in the city,
and the two fronts of the Santa Cruz and Lyceum Theatres.
I extended
my
steps outside the gates
and beyond the
walls, in
the environs observed several picturesque groups of the people
women
all
sitting in the
open
air
making
lace
peasants,
who
are
trowsers, and bakers carrying loaves of bread of Brobo-
kanago
dimensions,
some
weighing
peasants, snoring in their carts,
thirty
pounds.
Other
singing or drinking out of
poraones, which they hold up with both their hands, and let the
refreshing liquid
the
hill
fall in
of Montjuich,
rill
down
their throats.
I ascended
whence a glorious view may be had of
the town, the port, and
its
charming environs, and thence
descending passed again into the city by another gate, and
436
wandered through every

visiting the hospitals
Of
and
and quarter of the
was entered, with
will
peasantry wear.
houses,
have
its
elegant- Gothic
rich light that illuminates its inner
walk led me to the Plateria, where
where you
interior,
and military establishments and markets.
course, the Cathedral
cloister
street
find the
life
another
the jewelers reside, and
all
heavy and long earrings that the
Besides looking into a number of quaint old
and up to some rambling balconies which seemed to
strolled
out of the middle age of these antique tene-
ments, I followed the course of the narrowest streets and lanes

I could find, taking them just as I fancied, and not caring
whither they
led, until I
came out of the paths
Alameda, and thence returning to the

ing the whole day in viewing the
place, the
Spain.
first,
life
city,
of the
New
was occupied dur-
of this truly commercial
and almost the only port of importance
in
the rambla's bed.
437
BARCELONA.
Barcelona
is
one of the
facturing city of Spain.
which
is
It
is
the Manchester of Catalonia,
mighty hives of English industry and
city
Rarnbla divides the old city from the new;
and south.
It once
" Mall," which

Rarnbla,
river-bed,
in, like
is
was a
The
runs nearly north
it
The word
being dry in summer,
in Spain,
the Boulevard of Paris;
a charming walk planted with
properly means a
it
The channel was, on the extension
is
every-
beyond
than Madrid.
bounded the west wall of Barcelona.
which often
is
streamlet, la Rivera dew Malta, of the
Arabic, Rami, a sandy heap
at Berlin, and
skill,
It disputes even with capital, and
petty.
doubt a better placed and handsomer
a road.
Compared, how-
the Lancashire of the Peninsula.
is
ever, to the
thing
and certainly the most manu-
finest
now
it is
is
used as
of the city, taken
the great aorta, and
trees, like the
Unter den Linden
the fashionable promenade by day and night,
and the Corso of the renowned carvinal of Barcelona.

the traveler should lodge
here
is
On
it
the theatre, the post-office,
the diligence-office, and the bureau for passports, the best shops,
and most gape-seed.
^
Barcelona, according to local annalists, was a Laletanian
city,
It
and founded by Hercules, and 400 years before Rome.
was certainly refounded 235 B. C, by Amilcar Barca, father
of Hannibal,
and thence called Barcino.
thago Nova of the north
coast.
It
became the Car-
The Punic
city
was
small,
438
and only occupied the
In 206 B. C,
cathedral.
the site round the
was made a colonia by the Romans,
it
called " Faventia Julia
and
now
Timber,
hill
Augusta Pia BarcinoP
Roman
however, quite eclipsed by Tarragona, the
by Emporia, a busy Greek sea-mart.
by the Gothi-Alani, rose

the legend Barcelona:
in importance,
When
celona,
awed by the example,
Moors
was taken about 409
and coined money with
capitulated,
in
540 and
was kindly
treated,
many changes and
After
chances during the eighth and ninth centuries, in 818

ruled
by an independent Christian
Bar-
Tarragona,
utterly destroyed
and became a new metropolis.
and
capital,
two councils were held here
599.
the
It
It was,
chief of its
it
was
own, whose
of
Count of Barcelona,
on assuming that of King of Aragon.
During the middle
twelfth descendant dropped the
Carthage of
ages, like
old, it
title
was the lord and
and divided with Italy the
Mediterranean,
terror of the
enriching
com-
merce of the East, and' trade was never held to be a degra-
among
dation, as
tions are
much
the Castilians; accordingly, heraldic decora
less frequent
on the houses.
The
citizens
were
protected by municipal charters and fueros ; their commercial
code dates from 1219.

pride,
and
fiscal
The
Castilian connexion, with its wars,
absurdities,
hence their desire to shake
led to the decay of Barcelona,

off that
foreign yoke.
Thus, in
1640, they rose against the taxation and violation of their
usages by Philip IV., and threw themselves into the arms of
Erance.
Again, in the
War
of Succession, they espoused the
Austrian cause, and the citadel Monjuich was surprised, October

9,
of
1705, by Lord Peterborough, one of the most brilliant feats

that chivalrous commander, the
Don
Quixote of history,
and Barcelona surrendered on the 13th of September.
When
Marlborough was disgraced, Barcelona was
left
alone
FIRST CITY
to
KEY OF
439
SPAIN.
combat her two powerful neighbors.
Louis
XI V.,
then sent
Berwick with 40,000 men to aid Philip V., whilst an English

under Wishart, blockaded their former
fleet,
refused to yield unless

fore
its
stormed by the French;
the sword,
privileges guaranteed
fire,
and was
city
there-
11, a white flag
was
Berwick applied the torch himself;
hoisted, but in vain, for
and when
September
The
allies.
"fiver os" were secured,
and
lust
had done
their worst, all the
by France were abolished by Frenchmen.
Buonaparte, in our times, obtained Barcelona by perfidy;
he knew
its
importance, and called
it
the "first city" and key
of Spain; one which "could not be taken, in fair war, with less
In February, 1808, he sent Duhesme with
than 80,000 men."

11,000
men
in the character, of allies,
of confidence
and harmony," that
mount guard with
who
desired, as a
"proof
might alternately
his troops
the Spanish; this granted, on the 28th he
seized the citadel, having
drawn out
under the
his soldiers
pretence of a review; Ezpeleta, the Captain-General, at the
same giving up the
The
fortress of Monjuich.
Catalonians, in 182T, rose in favor of
ever since Barcelona has taken the lead in

against every established authority.
the ball by opposing Christina, in 1834
Don
all
Carlos,
and
insurrections
General Lauder opened

:
soon
after,
Barcelona
" pronounced" for Espartero in 1840, and against in 1841-2-3
the low populace, especially in the San Jaime quarters, (the
Saint Giles's,) being always ready to raise the banner of revolt.
Barcelona
is
the capital of
its
province, the see of a bishop,
the residence of the Captain-General and Jefe Politico, and the

It has a university, academies, and the
seat of an Audiencia.
usual
civil
120,000.
ments than
and military establishments.
The
is
city
possesses
Population
more European-like
above
establish-
usual in Spain, and they are well conducted.
440
Although, there are few things more repugnant to English

notions than
that concerns Justicia in Spain, a word at
all
which the natives tremble worse than we do at the thoughts

of Chancer}', Mr. Milford,
a ^Devonshire magistrate,
more European and
these matters at Barcelona to be on a
The Cared Nuevo,
better footing.
1838-40,
is
or
New
Prison, built in
spacious and well arranged; the younger culprits
are taught las primer as
letras,
to read
where the judge
de declaration,
grating, while the prisoner
is
dad, founded in 1799,
visit
the sola
unseen and behind a
confronted with the accuser,
At
the
Casa
who
de Cari-
more than 1000 poor men, women, and
The
are usefully employed.
detention for convicts,
and write
listens
alone knows the presence of the judge
children,
found
is
ferable to the hulks;
on a large
Presidio,
scale,
and
or place
certainly
is
of
pre-
the culprits, during the term of their
confinement, are instructed in different trades, and receive half

their earnings, part at once,
which they expend
in tobacco,
and
the remainder on leaving, by which means they are not forced

into
new
crimes by being cast without means or character on
the wide world

expenses.
the other half
There
is
is
retained to defray the general
very little attempt at moral reformation, and
not half are reclaimed; safe custody rather than philanthropy

is
the
principle
Spanish soldiers
they are tolerably
fed,
as well indeed
as
they sleep on the ground like pigs, on mats
in long corridors ; generally speaking, there
is
an open grating
at one end, at which sentinels are placed, who, in cases of out-
break, not unfrequently

sort of school for the
To understand
first
fire
young
in
with ball-cartridge.
There
is
offenders.
the localities of this
city,
the traveler should
ascend the cathedral tower, and then walk through the
beautiful
promenades with which Barcelona abounds;
first,
for
UNRIVALED RAMBLE.
the interior
the unrivaled
is
the Muralla de tierra, which
Bambla;
is
441
then, for the land side,
both a walk and a drive.
Com-
mencing at the Puerta de Santa Madrona, below are the
rich
gardens of San Beltran, with the road to Monjuich, and the

fresh fountains of Trobada, Satalia del Gat,
Madrid road
issues
gardens and "torres" extend to Sarria;

Angel, a noble walk,
The road
to Gratia.
outside to the
tine
with
made
to
in
at
named
France
del
from the Puerta Nueva;
issues
niches,
and a chapel built by a Floren-
Xear the Puerta
Ginessi.
The avenues
Lancaster.
seats commodious.
nose,
Puerta
1824, by Campo-sagrado, leads
JSueva, begins
Nuevo, or "PI Lancastrin" so called from
and
the
bevond the
a wide extent of densely-peopled garden
left, is
catacomb
its
Duque de
The
the right, the citadel, and beyond this the Cemen-
district, to
terio,
and Pesetas.
from the Puerta San Antonio
The
"del General,
founder, the
its
are shady, and the stone
nereids, tritons, royal busts, all chin
and sculpture, are poor

7'
El Paseo
at the other end,
The garden
as regards art.
was
laid out
by
Castafios, in
1816, with flower-beds, statues, ponds with swans, and aviaries.
The walk on the

la
Muralla
del
sea-board, on the mural terrace or rampart,
Mar,
is,
as at Palermo, the fashionable
and evening lounge, sunny

breeze in summer.
in winter,
morning
and freshened by the
The modern Plaza
del
Mar
sea-
opens to the
mole, to the Plaza de Toros, and Genoese-looking Barceloneta.
The Plaza
del Palacio, is the resort of the official, military,
commercial
classes.
The environs
The sea and town from the base

which
rise to
mean height
and
of Barcelona are delightful.
of a rich plain, girdled
by
hills,
of 700 feet, from whence the river
Pesos and the tributaries of the Llobregat descend; this "Pla"
studded with " Torres y Huertas," which extend from the

city walls to Garcia and Sarria, the Brighton and Astoria of
is
442
the merchants; vast multitudes go there on the holidays to eat
Among
and dance.
the
boxes,
cits'
el
Laberinto, and that of
Sefior Anglada, both near Horta, are the
The
streets in the older part of the
tortuous
The demolition
space; the well paved
Rue
new
of convents has afforded additional

streets are built in imitation of those
Rivoli at Paris, with arcades and shops, rather than
after the old
Catalan character.
many
In la Plateria, the form of

the peasants
is
of the ornaments
is
Observe the huge ear-rings of amethysts,
the " Arracadas," (a pure Arabic
word and
"Joyas" made with emeralds and colored

principal
worn by
and antique, although the work
quite classical
very rude and coarse.
The
town are narrow and
they are being gradually widened as repairs become
necessary.
in the
most charming.
Roman
antiquities
thing,)
and the
stones.
to be
are
found in the
oldest portion of the town; they are but fragments, having for
by Goth, Moor, and Spaniard.
fifteen centuries
been
In the Calk
Paradis are some columns
del
ill-treated
built
up by houses,
which are supposed to have been the termination of the aqueduct from Colcerolla, of which an arch remains in the Calle de
Capellans: there are six in one house; one
three in a room, and
two
in
antiquarian should mount.
an upper
seen in the Patio,
is
garret, to
which the
These have been called the tomb
of Hercules, Ataufus, etc.
In the church of San Miguel
is
a blue and white Mosaic
pavement, with tritons and marine subjects, and hence considered to have belonged to a temple of Neptune; others have
thought
it
the work of Greek artists of the thirteenth century.
In the Calle de
alas
los
Banos are some old Moorish
baths, now,
converted into a stable.
The churches
are very ancient; some are of singularly elegant

'
THE CATHEDRAL, SEU.
Gothic, and
many have
443
The
the square and polygonal belfry.
cathedral la Seu or Seo rises on the highest part of the old
town, and
is
on the
built
The
a previous pagan temple.
site of
chapter nestled around, in the excellent houses of the Calk
Paradis.
This cathedral
ture of Catalonia
its
is
del
a type of the ecclesiastical architec-
characteristics are the elevated flight of
steps at the approach, the belfry towers, the lofty roof, sup-
ported by slender elegant
painted glass, the
piers, the splendid
semicircular colonnade which girdles the high altar,

it
the chapel crypt, with
elliptical
its
a profusion of
arch;
Saracen's heads are used as bosses and corbels.

of a
is
Xorman
cannot be mistaken.
style
unfinished, with a bold front
The
and below
The
infusion
principal facade
painted in stucco, although
the chapter for three centuries have received a fee on every
marriage,
for
very
this
original cathedral
was
purpose
built
by
of
Ramon
completing
Berenguer
one older, and dedicated to the cross.
site of
one was begun in 1298.
The
coro
and
The
it.
I.,
on the
The present
pulpits are of a
good
Gothic; the organs are of sober-colored wood, with Saracen's
The Retallo Major
heads beneath.
stone,
pillars
w ith pointed
T
arches,
is
composed of a dark
and blue and gold ornaments; the
which cluster around
it,
forming an open semicircular
frame, instead of the usual solid walls, have a very light and
elegant
On
effect.
each side
is
supporting an angel with a torch

arches
is
delicate
churrigueresque,
over-gilding.
a spiral pillar of red marble,

:
the series of connecting gilt
and singular; the chapels round the
and
filled
altar are
with bad Rdablos, sculpture, and
In a chapel crypt below the high
sepulchre of St. Peter's at
Rome,
lies,
or
is
altar, like
said to
lie,
the
the
body of Santa Eulalia, the "well-speaking" Patrona of the

city.
444
" Esta
Be
The
silver
Eulalia, la de Barcelona,
es
la rica Ciudad, la joy a
ricaT
The sacred
lamps were plundered by the French.
plate of the cathedral
The
was very ancient and magnificent.
chapter paid to the invaders 40,000 libras Catalanas to preserve

it,
who took
the
money
gold or
gilt
Cnstodia in the Sacristia alone escaped, which
fine
all
first,
and the plate next,
On
lovers of old plate should examine.
vae victis! the
the base
repre-
is
sented the entry of Juan II. into Perpinan, October 28, 1473,
after
he had defeated the French besiegers.
The cathedral has two noble towers; the arched support

that with the clock deserves notice
the great bell was cast in
1393: the panorama from the summit
is
glorious; flocks of
by
pigeons, as at Valencia, fly about, being forced to do so
make them
proprietors on the house-tops, to
Near the door
of ascent
is
of
their
themselves.
air
the light Gothic cloister with
faded frescoes and pleasant court of oranges;
let in
its
the walls
are some curious sepulchral stones, dating from the twelfth to
Here was the canonical aviary
the fourteenth century.
which certain sacred geese were kept

capitol.
like
in
those of the Roinan
It afterwards became the palace of the Viceroy, and
then a convent and prison.

Second, and closely analogous to the cathedral,
church la Santa Maria

of the Goths.
del
Mar, erected on the
the fine
site of
a chapel
Inscriptions near the south door record the
date of the rebuilding,
1328;
it
was
style is very elegant, the piers airy
and
very rich, in greens, blues, and reds.

faces the overgrown, overdone organ.
framework of
is
pillars
finished in
lofty
The
1483.
The
the painted glass

gilded royal
pew
Observe the semicircular
that surrounds the high
altar,
which,
445
QUARRIES OF MOXJUICH.
unfortunately, has been modernized with red marbles, gilt capi-
and tawdry sculptured angels and the Virgin;
tals,
right
to the
a good statue of San Alejo, and in the Respaldo del
is
Coro, some pictures by Yiladomat, representing the passion of

Christ.
The ship-crowded port

spacious, but never
and
is
of Barcelona opposite this plaza
was very good,
subject to be choked
engineer,
in
1439, but
it
river.
was carried
sea; they then employed, in 1477, one Stack),
from
Egypt, whose work has
quarries
was improved
of Monjuich,
an
been strengthened
The breakwater, made
from time to time.

the
exposed to the south,
it is
up by deposits from the
mole was begun by the Spaniards
away by the
as
is
of stones
from
1802, by John
in
During the war, when the Medi-
Smith and Timothy Roch.
terranean became an English lake, the port, like that of Tarragona, being useless, was neglected by the French, and almost
ruined.
s
The port
fort
San
is
guarded to the
left
by the
The former was
Carlos.
" Ciudadela "
erected
under Philip Y., as a Bastile to terrorize the

military point of view
by Montjuich.
the town's folk;
city's
it is
it
an abomination
is
its
down.
the municipality, having
away a
way
citizens.
In a
commanded
in the eyes of
a bridle in their mouths, and prevents the
commercial growth: hence the
full
The
cortinas del Rey, y de la Reyna,
which face the town, were demolished
actually led the
by the French
of no great value, being
This citadel
increasing to
attempts to pull
it is
and the
first
in
October 1841, when
promised Zabala to protect
in the destruction, each
member
it,
carrying
stone in triumph.
In order to compensate for the

Y., the Marquis de la
Mina
district
built, in
destroyed by Philip
1755-75, the sub-marine
446
The
suburb called Barcelcneta.

the houses are low
builders, dealers in
streets
and painted
marine
red,
run in straight
lines;
and tenanted by
stores, fishermen
ship-
and washerwomen.
The eminence Monjuich defends and commands Barcelona

the right.
It
was the Mons
Jovis of the
to
Romans; the Mons
Judaicus of the middle ages; being the residence of the Jews;
and some strangely-inscribed tombstones are yet to be seen

underneath
The present name may be derived from
it.
of the former appellations.
fine
The reddish
hill
is
approached by
The superb
zigzag road constructed by Roncali.
either
fortifi-
cations are very strong, shaped in an irregular pentagon,
The panorama,
well provided with cisterns and casemates.
with the prostrate city at
was from the

"Lesseps"
its feet
and mercy,
batteries that Barcelona
insurrection,
1842;
is
magnificent.
was bombarded
and again
and
in
It
in the
the Pronunda-
miento of 1843.
Thus having concluded an

interest
embraced
celona, I returned
and
staid
weigh
on board
in the
inspection of all the objects of
present sketch and history of Bar-
by the way of the Marina to the steamer,

all night,
anxiously expecting to get under
in the morning.
TO FRANCE.
At
us,
eight o'cock on
Sunday morning, a
the steamer started out of port.
Our
fine breeze favoring
course,
carried us close to the coast-shore, which

several pretty villages,
Mataro.
among which
by steaming,
was dotted with
the most conspicuous was
This place was remarkable, from the fact that the
only railroad ever begun in Spain was completed at that point,
which
is
only eight miles from Barcelona.
44 7
'
LAST SIGHT OF SPAIN.
Shortly after passing the verdurous gardens of Mataro on
we came
the coast,
San Felice de
to the picturesque port of
Guixos, and sailing by the wind freshening in force we caught

sight of Forte Vendres,
which
is
the
French possession
first
Two moun-
beyond the bold promontory of Cabo de Creux.

tains,
scarcely a mile apart, rose high above the wild coast.
Each has a
castle.
The boundary
line of
Far
runs between these two outposts.

hills,
Spain and France
to the west of these
a magnificent outline of the Pyrenees was seen, but on
evening they were veiled in mist and uncertainty.
this overcast
Xot long
This was our last sight of Spain.
pearance we
The night was heavy and portended a

overcast in the morning as
we came
French
we
Our
crossed the Gulf of Lyons.
The wind had been
About
during the whole night.
fair,
coast.
The sky was
storm.
course was due north-east for Marseilles.

south-west,
after its disap-
lost sight of the headlands of the
eight o'clock
in sight of the bold hilly coast in the neighborhood
of the port,
and the wind changing about
ten,
we made a
fine
entrance into the harbor of Marseilles, just in time to escape

the brunt of a storm which was gathering in the heavens.
MARSEILLES.
This harbor, at the mouth of the Rhone,
singular, as well as the
is
most secure
is
one of the most

Its entrance
in the world.
about a hundred yards wide, but within there
1500
vessels.
The narrow opening
made almost impregnable by
is
bristling
is
space for
strongly guarded, and
rocks and
its
strong
fortifications.
But
Marseilles has few attractions.
quiet state than
when we had
It appeared in a
previously visited
it
more
on our way
448
In
to Spain.
fact, I
hardly thought of
my
being in French
territory, for such is the force of habit that I forgot for
my
time that I had escaped from
Spanish neighbors, and I
should have scarcely been reminded of
had I not been brought

grisettes,
little
my
to
wearing tidy
senses
little
some
my
absent-mindedness,
by the sight of numerous
bonnettes,
who were
flitting
across the streets, or busily occupied in arranging the goods in

their neat little shops.
To
pass from the port to Lyons, and thence to Paris by the
valley of the
work
Rhone, and by diligence and
of a few days.
much
think
was too glad
to get
of the intermediate space.
arrive in the capital,
how
I went to
rail-cars,
was the
back to Paris to
How
glad I was to
and what sights I saw, and what was
clone,
Franconi, was enchanted by the acting of
Rachel, diverted at Mabille, strolled on the Boulevards, ate

at the cafes, looked at the Barricades, admired the Gobelins,
listened at the Opera,
walked
in
"La
Chaise," laughed at the
Gymnase, smiled with Rose Cherie, grinned at Le Maitre,

purchased at the Ville de Paris, chatted with Rodolphe,
old valet de place, ran to Versailles, quizzed at the Ballet,
on
my
bankers, lodged at
looked at
le
"La
chat somerset,
my
drew
France," met with old friends,
was advised,
scyez sage, danced at
the Chateau Rouge, feasted the monkeys, breakfasted with
Don
Ribas, went to the minister's and got despatches, would
be only to relate what
American who
Our labor
visits
is
done and
Paris
will
be always done by every
and would only bore my
readers.
of love and these traces having been sufficiently
lengthened, our readers are doubtless no happier than ourselves
THE END OF THE TRACES.
that they are
now brought
Here we
to a close.
reflect over the joys of the past.
449
What
rest awhile to
thoughts of pleasant
hours spent in innocent enjoyment and profitable result rush
through the mind, painting with guileless images the whole
Our endeavor has always been
landskip of that retrospect.
instruct as well as to amuse.
Few
lines
to
have been written
which should ever cause the reader or writer to blush.
We
have striven to sustain a high standard of morality, and to present a better model for the elevation of a higher society
The
us.
cultivation of art
the handmaid of religion
Old World, has been earnestly commended on every

occasion.
among
in the
suitable
Refinement of manners, and that gentle courtesy
which can alone
arise
from the education of the heart, and the
development of Christian Grace, have been eminently urged as
worthy of our study and adoption,
subjects
principle there can
be no true
gentility.
Conceding the poetical accuracy of the

" The honest man
it
line,
nobility
on earth,
is
loftiest title of
that of the Christian gentleman.
While comparing the

this country, it
that
the noblest work of God,"
a pre-eminently grander truth, that the
is
and
is
for without religious
between Europe
differences existing
has always pleased
me
to conclude that in
the essential virtues necessary to a nation's prosperity, America
has decidedly the advantage.
In
civil
and
religious liberty,
the education of the masses, and the means of subsistence are
eminently superior, because these are more universally diffused
among
If
the people.
by the sentiments
offered in
my
works,
been made to appear dearer to her subjects
my
country has
if this
example
450
shall
have led others to a more careful cultivation of their
leisure
if
any heart has been made happier by any comfort
of reflection, or any poetry of thought herein
or one youth
beguiled from the wiles and snares of vice during the perusal
of these pages, such results will prove ample reward for our
humble endeavors.
that, "
In
Labor
fine,
ipse voluptas,"
I thank
which has enabled

perity
Beyond
God
me to
for
we have
thus experienced
for in all labor there
His unspeakable
is profit.
gift of health,
conclude this labor of love, in pros-
and happiness; and
tenance of His grace,
this,
my
sincerely pray, that in the counefforts
may
ever redound to His
honor and glory.
THE END OF
THE TRACES
OF THE
ROMAN AND MOOR
719
**
* /
\>
LIBRARY OF
CONGRESS
009 830 303
t I t \
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*
HH
MM
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HI
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KH

THE ROMAN AND MOOR

MY FATHER AND MOTHER,

Entered according to Act of Congress, in

LAMPORT, BLAKE MAN

of the District Court of the United

The Kingdom of the Spains,

Excursion from .Madrid,

The Royal Palace,

End of the Traces,

the magnificent nature of the scenery which

characterizes the whole chain of the Italian lakes,

eminently claims for

as well as from the noble specimens of

that charm the eye in the Lombardian and Spanish dominion,

conceived that no better

name than "La

Superba," could have been selected for the contents of this

But, laying aside mere verbal advantage, I have chosen,

the most simple

many names suggested

and the subject matter, and

carries the strongest conviction of its fitness, since it

a description of those splendid nations, who, overrunning in

both the northern part of Italy and Spain,

Roman and Moor.

Simply adding, that in the drawing of these sketches, I

tinguished travelers in Southern Europe, I

public, and, wishing

pray that Providence

them the same

prosperity and health that has enabled His servant to bring

from Venice was sudden.

that the railroad over the

Padua was then

was therefore cut

off in that direction.

entertained of the advantages of railroads in time

of war, then proved a fallacy

away from Venice

and we were forced to hurry

abrupt break in our traces caused us again to travel.

alternative but to escape

packed our trunks and locked our

quay near the

Whilst I was busy about the hire of a boat

who took them

Our counsel met us on Saint Mark's soon

and helped us to buy a good supply of

and Bologna sausages.

we had not met him before.

TRACES OF THE ROMAN AND MOOR.

and we had not the

tension and alarm had seized our minds,

must have been great cowards and very

"wicked, when no man pursued us" on

into one of the

of laughter, not far from twenty,

and a " lassie"

companion was greatly swol-

by the bundles of cotton goods which she had concealed

under the folds of her dress.

she afterwards amused us

by the removal of her surplus weight, our eyes were opened to