INTRODUCTION

Lasting is a major operation of shoe making

process.
It changes a flat upper to a 3-dimensional shape.
This operation is further divided into 3 parts :

Lasting

Assembly

Lasting

Bottoming

LAST

Replica of human foot.

A foot model with almost same dimensions and
shape as that of foot.
Some extra material may be added to suit the
current style.
E.g. - Pointed toe

TYPES OF LAST
SOLID BLOCK LAST
STANDARD HINGED
LAST
SLIDE-O-MATIC LAST
SCOOP LAST

 TRADITIONAL LAST
Made of hardwoods.
Used to swell or
shrink acc. to
temperature.
Shoe was difficult to
delast.
Once distorted cannot
be used again.
Handmade without
distinction for left and
right.

MODERN LAST
Made of plastics.
Durable with respect
to the temperature.
Waxy finish, shoe can
be easily delasted.
100% recyclable high
density plastic.
Clearly distinguished
left and right foot last.

LASTING
The process of
stretching upper over
the last and securing
it to the insole with
the help of adhesive
is called lasting.

LASTING

DIRECT
ATTACHMENT
Stuck-on construction
Moulded construction

INDIRECT
ATTACHMENT
Goodyear welted
Stitched down

TYPES OF LASTING
LASTING UP
LASTING DOWN
FORCE LASTING
STRING LASTING

COMPONENTS

1.
2.
3.
4.

They play a major role in the proper

lasting of shoe.
Components include:
Grinderies
Adhesives
Toe puffs
Counter stiffeners.

METHODS OF LASTING

BY GRINDERIES

BY ADHESIVE

BY STRING

Grinderies -Tacks , nails and

staples

ADHESIVES

Pressure sensitive - neoprene

Hot melt adhesive - polyamide
Heat activated adhesive - polyurethane

TOE PUFFS AND STIFFNERS

A stiff material used to give shape to the forepart and

back part of the shoe.
Inserted between lining and upper.
Retains the shape of the last even after delasting.
May be flat or moulded.
Can be solvent based or thermoplastic.
Enhance the appearance of the shoe.

HAND LASTING PULLS

12 basic pulls to
contour upper to the
last.
Also known as
drafting.
Done with the help of
13mm and 8 mm
tacks.

Lasting principles
Topline should be reasonably tight and
snappy.
Outer quarter should be 2-3mm below the
height of the inside quarter.
Back height should be proper.
Upper should be centrally aligned.
No wrinkles on the forepart or back part
should be visible.

FAULTS

TOOLS

TOOLS

CONSTRUCTIONS
Some specific
operations done in
order to attach the
sole to the lasted
upper.
May be simple
sticking or use of
some immediate
components like
welt,etc.

CONSTRUCTIONS

CEMENTED
STUCK ON

STITCHED
SAN CRISPINO
GOODYEAR WELTED

MACKAY
MOCCASIN

MOULDED
DIP
DVP

CONSTRUCTIONS

INSOLE ATTACHING
Properly moulded
insole is attached to
the bottom of last, by
the mean of tacks or
latex.
Insole should be so
placed that it comes
in level with last
bottom ,just under the
featheredge.

UPPER PREPARATION
Insole attachment
Placing of toe puff
Placing of counter stiffener
Pasting of lining to the upper, leaving no
wrinkles or air pockets open.
Stitching of toe puff along with lining
+upper. (machine lasting)

SCOURING
Removes the grain surface of the upper
revealing the flesh portion, for adhesive
penetration.
Removes the excess leather from forepart
and back part.
Also done to shape the heels.
Abrasives are used for scouring.

TYPES OF ABRASIVES

Aluminium oxide
Reddish-brown

Silicon carbide
Black

GROUPS OF ABRASIVES

Course grit No. 24 60)

Leaves a rough finish.
Pleats in toe lasting

Medium grit No. 80 - 120)

Leaves a rough finish.
Shaping of heels.

Fine grit No. 150 240)

Leaves a very smooth finish.
Sole preparation prior to inking.

ABRASIVES
Made Up Of: Backing material
Adhesive bonding agent
Grit (abrasive particles)
Sizing agent (to hold grit in place)

ROUGHING
Raise the fibers of the scoured upper for proper
adhesion and solid bonding.
Wire brush is used for roughing.

TYPES OF SPIKE

STEEL

BRASS

Medium to heavier leather

Corrected grain leather

Soft and delicate leather

sheep/goat leather

Sole preparation

WIPING
To clean sole from dirt
for better adhesion.
Can be done with
MEK.
E.g.. PU , PVC soles

PRIMING
To chemically activate
the surface for proper
bonding.
Can be done only by
specific primers.
Egg.- TPR soles.

 Plasticity and Elasticity are inherent properties of

leather which helps it to convert from a flat skin to 3-D
shoe. To smoothly work on this property HEAT
SETTING is done.

Leather.
Suede, nubuck,pu coated.

Temperature.
Dry air at 120 130C

split, most grain leather.

PU patent, PVC coated.
Fabrics.

Dry air at 100C

HEAT SETTING
Done to relax the various lasting strains.
Helps upper to retain the shape of the last.
TYPES OF HEAT SETTER
Infra red setter
High velocity air setter
Dry heat setter

 INFRA RED SETTER

Infra red heat elements were used.
Disadvantage very directional form of heat,
certain parts did not receive proper heat
treatment.
DRY HEAT SETTER
Used only for synthetic material.
No moisture to soften the upper.

HIGH VELOCITY AIR SETTER

High air speed typically 12 14mt/sec.
2 sections in 1 cabinet.
1st section- hot moist air to soften upper.
2nd section- hot dry air to remove moisture
and set the shoe to last.
Over all flow of air.

SOLE PRESS

Traditional type
Enveloping bag
Of presses
presses
Dwell time 12 -15 sec.
Pressure - 5 bars depending on the sole
material .
Less for softer material TPR
More for harder material Leather

CARBON PAPER TEST

Lasted upper + sole is prepared
excluding adhesive.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Sole
Dotted rubber sheet
White paper
Carbon paper
White paper
Lasted upper