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    All the basics

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    All the basics

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
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    5K views277 pages

    M Rohr Patternmaking

    Uploaded by

    Penguin
    All the basics

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
    Flag for inappropriate content
    of 277
    (COAT ITH SHAWL COLLAR a ar NECK DART /counr| E ‘STAND ‘SHAWL COLLAR HLTH DARTS. TH BACK I tlustrstion, shoe oot larwith a 3 standin Backt The darts. in Pack cause the collar to. stind away. fron the necks “This is neces Bary Decause of “the igh stanas T angie Using, the emt founca~ tiondraft the shoul Gor dart in fronts 36 iWlustrated. iii and 1 ako trent, wider be- Yow waistline. and draw rolling. tines thes Erace neck and’center front. ' BACK OF COLLAR Ato 8-6". B ise > Sher © to 0 = Connect, BIDE - Equals ¢ to Bolus 1/45 9 to € - Drawa curv ea Tine, " Apply back of | collar tr Front as shown by dotted Tines. wt Draft front part of Goflar and'revers,us= patho sano ae shown for the Jacke shawl collar tpagoei). wn 7 WITH DARTS IN BACK Trate revers to complete,the front. Mark the position for dotted Tines. tr the darts, as shown by x Spread collar sections; then draw V-shaped lines fer darts, SHAME COLLAR WLTH SEPARATE COLLAR STAND I lustration share coat with neck” dart cin Front, and col far with a’ Separate stand. This collar ig cut. in tno. parts to allow the outer part to be" cut in furvand ‘the stang In material. This is to prevent skin irtl tation sone= tines “Caused by tur rubbing against the neck. XE ang it These diagrans show how to draft the neck dart. vit and x1 for separate collar Stands. cut through tolling “Tine; then. close’ "the darts ‘and trace stand in one piece. (COAT RAGLAN SLEEVES AGLAW SLEEVE LTH SHOULOER DART Using the coat foundation of the front, back and Sleeve,shift the ‘shoulder Sean forward 174". Also SRIF the’ shoulder notch on the sheave toward” the front, 1/4" a Draft the raglan arshole Tines ‘on the Front and pack, a8" shom ty 'dottee Mark ‘dots on front, and back part” of the "sleeve Cap to correspond with the ots on the arahale. ur hone of, "the. front age back, and oa rea to the “cap of the sieeve having. the sections. toue the “side” of. the sleave Sition, the space between the “sieeve “eap. and the shoulder sections. equals the shogl der extension on the engt.. for, exazple For a I'bfoager shoul der, make space batwoen sheave 699. and shoulder sections w TPaee, ete. Ww responding notches. TWO-PIECE RAGLAN SLEEVE Vand w The method of naking this Sleeve is to divide the dart steve in. two parte. 8 shown by dotted Nines: The alloxance under the arn maybe" given to an Sleeve which” ts'aade for the deeper achat. The amount. to be added at the “top'of the: nderars Sean depends-on the depth ofthe armole’ of gamonts For oxanp For 1* deeper armhole, Stiow 1+ “to’the underara Tenath of the stooves vse WINGSRratogs” Foret 38 Seaper arehote, a 11723 Allow seans and mark cor~ responding aotches. Gut avay the shoulder sec 8 SLEEVE. gap at 3 correspanding p>~ Allow seams and mark cor- 2-P1 EOE acaw SteevE DRAFT OF HOOD AND CAPE Hood has to to to te to te Sketch shows how to take ‘Head Heicht™ measurement. Other views, show Hood. faced with contr: at each side of neekedge Use'the back foundation, size 16, to draft the hood, Ho TO DRAFT THE HOOD PATTERN ein Teziturn back at top of front, and 2 pfeat 1 . Extend center back line up, 2° 35. Back of Neck) ‘ne’ FFon point © 10" et senhole, draw Equale 4" (Front of Nock). Seuare a Up fron Line Go; then cofinect.E*to D- Equale 14" {toad Hetant, plus 4*) BY faerose back Messurenent, plus 1"). 18 D = Connect. 1 to Hl Equals 2# (allovance for back of head). $01 = Equals 2" (extension for turn back): 48.1 = Equste in. Thon connect tron eto. J" to 1. = raw curved neckline for Hoad. 10 B= Connect. y ‘Aas ceane and ark pleat lines 2° tong. How TO DRAFT THE CAPE PATTERN MMustration shows cope with shoulder dart fitting ang with minimum 1 weep at lower ‘edge (60" sweep, and 42" length for size 16). Use the dress foundation as a guide to draft the cape. 1 Trace front and back sbovt 12% /aport; then mske shoulder dart. A'to'g = Sauare aline scroso fron center Back to arnhol. B to C = Emale 1/4 of ling ABs (allowance for ease over the arn) Die ~ Emuals line toc. un 42". (Length of Cane) | Extens center dack Vine down to 6. Fto.6 G fol - Equals 158 (174 of GO" swoep), Square this, |ine scross at G. B to C= Connect: then draw a curved tine tron shoylder to point ¢ H to (= Equars i/2-of Vine H-G. Sevare Tine to polne | fan Tine Ch ‘10 k= Equals #406; then logate point {and coaplete draft of front. nm Add seams and rake correcponding fetches. Make shoulder cart 2” shor ter. j 2-PIECE CIRCULAR CAPE 0 Illustrations below, show plain cular ape about 374 Tength, 40 Teck’ to" bottom, Draft cape, using the fitted front and back ofwaist a3 a guide, as follows: 2epiece cire From'back oF 1 A to 8 ~ Square tine across, fron center back tb araholer © to. - Draw line from aranole to center front, parallel to walstl ine. W Place front, and back so that shoulders neet at grnbolg, having the space betwocn'# and © haltMat A'to'B "funis space resrgsente™ the minimum apount for any Styis cape). Oraw slightly curved line between 8 and Cy m E to F - Represents, reayired cape length at center back (40" for this draft}. D to G - Equals & to Fe H -'~ Conter between 8 and C. I to J = Draw lige through H, making H to J equal A'to Fr F to G~ Draw circular line through J... (This Hing fe'paraliel to line A to 8 to # te't to Bye w for a cape less cireular at lover, edge, re- Guce-at Sts nothing at Hon front and’ back as shown on the inside dotted |ines. For additional fulnose in eape, add at J to nothing at shoulder point I, as’shown by the sutside dotted lines. CENTER FRONT x) I oo CENTER BACK INOS FINI CIRCULAR CAPE (SOUARE SHOULDER DESIGN) 82 Lslustrations below show cape with § shoulder tarts. The cape is about 32" Tongs The, pattern is so cut that It provides the extra fulness for the square shouldered effect. 1 Using the fitted waist, foundation, trace front and back, with shoulder to Shoulter, and neckline eveng tien shift + shoulder line forward 17/2" for nem shoulder Tine a3 shown by dotted tine Draft yoke 3* wide at center front, and 4-178" at Shoulder sean 1/2 at center back, Draft the dart fines as follows: First, draw a curved line between arsholes 3* below the joke ling; then draw, the dart tines [* apart at the yoke, And" I-I74% Spartiat'the lower curved (ine. ur Draw a squared line at the upper left corner. Then cut out front ang back In-ono piece (including the extended Section for the darts). Bofore placing front and back against the squared line, glash slong "Znguider Tine and. fnlo the’ “yokes then con” Tinue to'sfash down each ‘dart lines Place front and back carefully against the squared lines, making equal size spaces for ‘darts; then trace as. il- Tistrated Draw a circular line fro center back to center front “along Bust Tine, and. 4* below dart section at side, as Shown “by dotted Tine. This eirevlar Tine” serves aoa Guide line for drawing the lower edge cape lines W Diagram shows draft of cape 32% long with lover circular Hine parallel to the eireular guide Ine. For additional puff, add to top of darts:as shown wy dotted Tine. Instead of darts, cape may be made with pleats or shirring al shoulders For a cape with less fulness at bottom, reduce about 4* each side of side sean, 1 WAIST LENGTH GRADE! Flest cam center pack ha; thon 'anife pottern yont/ae from Ato 6 ane Yate the corer at point: rue oe ee PART OF ARWHOLE GRADE GRADING WIsses (Showing method of grading size 16 to 18) sizes 7 | GRADING is the art of Increasing or gecreseing 4 sample’ size pattern proportionately, secording to the Standard body measurement The method of grading a pattern from one size to. an other is by ahi fing’ the’ pattern piece fron point to point, traclag each step as you go along. The instructions for grading the pattern as shown on inis “page 1s merely’ fundamental, and should serve as, baste For graaing style pattorns: NOTE: Many manufacturers grade the width of front and ack only” S/s" “ingtoad Of 1/24, from center front or back to Side seas. In this caso,” they grade. only. 1/16" for the shoulder, and'/16* fron’ armhole to side sean HON TO GRADE THE BACK Tr BACK NECK GRADE Yj Next shift pattern out IB" keeping Senter back gf gattecns” parallel to x e A3s Then comer at polat C. trace Wr SIDE LENGTH GRADE Week THT SHOULDER SEAM GRADE Y Yy Li » i Shift pattern out 1/a* and. trace from C to 0: Then mark corner at polnt O 1 PART OF ARHMOLE GRADE Y y ypsose x x i i \ \ \ 1 ; i Shift pattera dow, 1/8" i tracing armhole from ' CTE ang ekira point Es ; Shout"! Sbovelbest Tine ! {VEE BACK WAISTLINE GRADE Shift, pettern ovt 1/4", and trace armhole. From E'to Fithen trace cornee at point F. ' 1 i i ' ' ' 1 i 1 1 eee HOW TO GRADE SIE pattern don, 1/9" and trate: fron F to Gi iten “race “corner ai point & THE FRONT ve and trace from G to Ayto Complete the grace. owing, were anu ow ich Datura’ was" grades Shit pattern Diagram also shows how tovgrade” waistline “of Battern that has await H fl 1 1 1 1 ' 1 ' art. Ts, Stage the frost, use Sanetnethod of sani ttin Pattern 9s stow for grade Ing the, Backy"txcept the Gh, ich Ts graded" ta Showing, where and how ituch pattern wae graded Disoram also. shows how to grade” waistline of pattern that has awalet Gar To,grade,ing cleaver use | Shoring, where ang tow Fane” nechod meh "Enot af seve"paeteeh Sakiocn tne’ Shown’ for 1 tas" grates Tae ef Set 18 racine the “Gack, ang | to 8 TeeBteweoumeng (507 | Ine ciboy dart renaina the sane for all Efres! I 1 “ i ifting | 1 ' L WITH SIDE DART 6 Spm Ws i Ye WAIST DART PP TECE BAK Ds ee VL a steve Ya cy The grade fros 96 to 33 ig very yeh the sane as tho grado fron I6 to, 10,the difference by ing an, extra grade in the front var the bist, from shoulder seam to waistline this grade 1s requires for the ladles! sizes only: Yother the front nas a side dart, shoulder dart or waist dart fitting, the extra grade of fat shouldbe” given as Shown in these dis orans. The ladies! "sizes represent the wature fig and therefore the Front pattern requires ti Gktra grade (1/5") Inthe dart foreach sites The underarm length of the waist and sleeve remains the sane for all ladies’ sizes. The grade’ in the armhole and in We ateeve cap is"sonedhat greater than in the miasme" sizes 9 The orade from 38 to 40 and fron @ to 42yete, isthe saao'as Tron 36. to" GRADE OF PATTERN WITH SIDE DART IN FRONT Ohart shows where and how much pattern is in creased fran 38. to 38. The extra grade of 1/8" over the bust in- 2 the size of the sige darts” This also les the “necessary” grade of 9/a*— from jer to waistline, there. being 1/10" at rouldar than the neck is raised. 1/164) at the armfold,and 1/8" at the bust! inde The sleeve grade at, tho wrist is half of the bicep grades For instance: The grade at vices is 1724; St" the wrist. I/4%,. This vrineiple al 50,appl ies to the grade of ‘sieeve! in th miss~ GRADE OF SHOULDER DART, WAIST DART, etc. Chart shows method of grading front patter With shoulder dart or walet dart. fitting. sake ing thes Increase. of S78. fron shoulder to wajstlineand: increasing the size of the dare Tet tor each size. Chart also shows where and hy wich the two= plece Back a increased from 26"t0 30 GRADE OF 4-PIECE PATTERN WITH 2-PIECE SLEEVE Apply the sare method In grading the 2-picce ffont asin grading the shoulder dart Fronts Ihe grade of the 2piece back is similar to Re Grade GF the ack “Sections th the. above The eatire 1/8* shoulder grado is applied to the Side’ section of front and back. The increase of the 2-piace sieve as onecpiece Sleeve shown in the ch GRADING SIZE 18 (misses!) to 98 (ladies! size) The grade fron 18 to 36 is very much the cane faa the grade from 36 to 2, the differencoy be- Tng.an extra tae grade in'the waist length, Thie'makes. the bath aboul 1/2" Tongor waisted ang. the front 8/8" longer fron shoulder to thether the front has a sige dart, shoulder dart of walsttdart feting,the ented grade of 78%, Shovld bo. given across. the bust,ge show inthe charts of ladies! grade 36 to". The ladies! size 96 ig the mature figuce and therefore reauires this. ektra grade over the bust. GRADE FROM. 16 to 36 Chart shows where and ho much pattern is (nereased from 16. to 38. The extra grade of U8" Inereases, the size of the sige darteThis, a'so provides the naceseary grad of 5/5" Trew Shoulder. tovnaist tne in thot front, thore faa. I/igt at"shoulder when, the neck, 13. Fal con1/ibe), S/Oe al the arshole, 1/8" at the Beet line,'and) 1/4# beaten the’ dart ana fhe waistling. Thesleeye grade. is very much the sane as. from 16.to Id, the difference boing 3/18 grade. in the cap height instead of 1/0. GRADING 16 (regular) to leh (half size) Tne difference between the regular and the faitisize. figures fe nainhy in tho height. the Tegular size figure neasurlag 5 tect 7" of 8° Tn@hetont, and tho halt size about feet 3 Garments designed for tho shortor yorgn (trade tera is half sizes) aco mado about 2» shorter than ‘the paraents for “the Standard regular plzeg; that Is |* shorter above the Waistline and 2# shorter Below the hip. The hip of the half size figure is atout | {o'2! Targer,and the waistline about (* 1a er, than the'cegular size figure. The arm about" |? shorter. GRADE FROM REGULAR TO HALF SIZE Chart shows where and how euch pattem is grad- ed fron regular te hall size. This agthod may be applied to grading patterns Tron T6-tor1Bhy 36 te'abhy or (3.0 182. “For Instango; If a'etyie ie. designes inthe regular sfasstslautes" of junzor aizoe, and'tno gare Sly lemiy be suitable tor giorter wonen va halt Site oattern, is) then’ wade by grading ffon the fegular to the half-size, aaking. the pattern Shorter provortionately,énd larger, in, fhe, hip Gnd’ waletiine, as shows’ tn this chart. “Once the hal size’ is established, the pattern may belaradee'te'the other required’ sites a5 101 For the aisses! half sizes,l4i, 164, 184, etc. For the ladies! half sizes, 964, 365,434,404 etc. For the juniors! halt sites, (38, ID8s1?8 ete: The method of grading the pattera from 164 to Teh "or Sb tel s8, "or 13% ta TOF, je the same ag. thel grade fran [eto 16, 36 toa or 13'to GRADING 13 to 15, (juntor sizes) AND 8 to 10 (girls! sizes) 88 GRADING OF JUNIOR ‘1765 junior sizes range fron Il to 17, of Id *if."Senotines Certain Junior stylée are node insizes 8 to lf or I to 19, ete hen gracing a pattern fron size 13 to 15, use sane “method of shifting pattern fros one’ point to" anotiier * as, “shown von the grading page Tor nfeses! cites 16 to 18. The grage from size 19 te Il is the sane as Fron 13°te 18. ‘ The,97898 ofA, Hite 9 is qret full orace Usbout’S74 of the grade from 1a to f ‘SHOWING GRADING POSITIGN ON PATTERN This chart shoes where and how much pattern is afaded fran 13" to" 15. for, 6 shapes sleeves grade length of sleeve In 2 places, gbove and below the elbow as shown on the misses! grading pave. center front or back’ to side sean.In this eace, the grage noule be 1/8" for the mock, 1/16" for the Shoulder and'3/16* from arahole. to Side sean. GRADING GIRLS* SIZES The plris'sizes range fron 7 to 12 or sonetines fron?" to 14, (75810-1214). | Styles for these sizes ere culteble for girls! || oF pubtie schoo! age: 4 sample is usually made in size 8. Sone manu factorers make thelr sonples Ia size Ibe Theaverage Inereose in height for giris' sizes | is about S* frow else 8 to lOyete.; the average | | waist length (fron neck to waistline) Increases: about 3/4¥ per size; the underara Steeve fength | about 3/4" per size. SHOWING GRADING POSITION ON PATTERN This chart shows where ang how auch pattern is Graéed tron size B't9 TO. Viren grading pattern from one size to, another, | Yat) date methow af” shifeingvpattern tran point | jo point as shown” on” grading page for: misses! sizes 6 fo 18 eer The, skirt grade from center front to center | back is the sane as the grade of the bodice. | The grade of the skirt length Is about Z* per The grade from size & to'7 eousls half of the atade fron elze 8 22°10. GRADING KIMOHO, RAGLAN ANO DOLMAN SLEEVES KIMONO SLEEVE “i ban ah RAGLAN SLEEVE DDOLMAN SLEEVE 16 to te a7 GRADING THE KIMONO SLEEVE Chart shows how pattern is graded fron size t6 fo'i8. When grading the front and ack 1/4" ongersin the waist, the increase ist beade near the top, as illustrated, This gives the sleeve’ 172" grade aerass the tops For* the ladies" sizes with side darts, use “the sane “method of grading’ thé darts as shown on the grade Fron 38 10°38. Waar of When grading a pattern for a toose fit Ying armen grade front and back 3/3 each “in"the’ width, ‘making’ only 1/8" Grade at the underata instead of 1/8, For junior sizes, use tho cae method a8 oéscribod bofew' forthe Dolman sleet. GRADING THE RAGLAN StFEVE Ghart shows the grade. fron 18 to 18 for the front, back and sleeve, When grading the raglan sleeve and the raglan grafole of the trent. and bach, [tis" Important to grade tho corre’ sponding ancunts at {he corresponding positions. The anount used for grading must tally with “the grade of 3" pattern with.» Fegular armhole ang set-in sleeves For instance: the total rage’ fram neck to weist'of 18 to 1a is S/4*, or Ii" at Shas lar Va" at the gap the ser, and 1/8 "above ana 1/8 below the elbows The width of the sleeve at the neck ré- eains the sane for all sizes.The uswal Grads in the'neck 1S given inthe frank, Bhd back only. GRADING THE DOLMAN SLEEVE Chart shows where and how nuch pattern 13"graded tron size 18ta Bs For the junfor sizes, fron 13 to 15, or 15'to'l7, ete., the grado ie. the Zane as shoan'in thé chart, the only differ ence being an extra grade of 1/4" be- {ween the armhole and the waistline ia Front and “back sections: “This. would account for the 1/3" grade in. tha waist Fength, between the’ neek and tho walet~ For ladies! sizes,see directions above for the kimono sieeve. SKIRT GRADING, SIZE 16 to 18 STYLE | eT STE 2 ta" te ie 26" te” Z Ig FRONT g a 5 g ta.” Sain i 2k s| 4g 3 te A We 7 sae % Se nme ones ie tia ib Zl 8 : a 8 STYLE 1 (2-PIECE SKIRT) The increase from 16 to is 2° arcund walet and hip, or | fro centar front to Genter back. Chart. shows where and how such pattern is Increased fron 16 To 18." The front. takes. the Hoh geade in one shit tyah ile the beck grade "T's divided 1 to two shifts, as ITlustrat~ et. sTvLe 2 Chart shows skirt pattern ie four sections and it also shone how such to-orade each Section “from one” size” to another. It is an established rule that the front ana beck Of 4 4-plece: skirt pattern te ta bel graded only 13" oath, and Sie for each’ side section: sive 3 Chart shows whore and how sue pattorn 13. graded Trow 16. to Mi “osing ther sang oringi ole as'the grade for Styie 2: Wren grading the yoke parts ofthe front ‘and! back, "they fist Ee graded to cnrréssend ith thes top part of the ad= Joining’ sige Section. STYLE 4 Chart shows 2-pieco ekirt Sith sido yoke, grades fron Te'to IB Use the cane method of aivid ing the grate as shown inthe grade of Style 3 It is advisable to keep the foner “edges of the yore of the graded sizes at the same angle as the sauple size. the Gate apglies’ to the ciant- ng. eages ot the Front. and bases STHLE 5 Ghart shows grage of skirt front whieh fein “2 parts. and’ skiet back wlth 2 farts: Chart also. shows where and how much pattern 15 Mereaes edyahich Totals I from cen= ter" tront to canter backs The 1/8" grade near the con Yer ‘Front ang bass, and tho Balance "at the cide ta in Keeping with the grade of the Aplece shirt. SIVtE 6 Chart shows grade of trousers or divided skirt “Fron size 18 to's The grade of the eroteh depth froawaigtline to the feo sean 15 3B" This glade is facde in tao shifts a8 “inate Gated. with arrons in front and back The waist and hip grade is the sane-as for thesskirt. GRADING JACKET AND COAT PATTERNS - SIZE 16 to 18 2-PIECE SLEEVE ye SMe a sTVte | Chart shows where and how much jacket gutter 18" Graded! From size ato ie The entire increase of the under arn grade is given at the side of fhe Front’ becavse the underaen span had been shifted toward the back about 2" The grede,gf the, piece, stone GiTaed' equally Between “the tpper and under sleeve, with the UBuR) eap grace In the upper sleere. The,collar takes the neck grade OF ahe Front ané back. STYLE 2 Chart. shows peplum jacket graded Fron'té'to 1B Replun doos not orado in, longthy Sat ahem grading tn widths eat” tera’mustebe shifted tn the ai fection af the shape of the vicars AS ingieated with arrows, The sam Applies to tho’ lower siveve sec~ tba. The upper sleeve thes the entire sleeve Tength grade. STYLE 3 Chart shows coat pattern From 16 to lee graded When grading the circular part Dt they front and bac, pattern fust be shifted. in the directien Ne indicated on the” chart with The horizontal and vertical must! correspond with the Blue eect ions. grade tipper The cuff rade sust correspond with the gfage of the lower part of the slecve. NOTE: Many manufacturers grade Thor front tod back oniy 3/6 ine Btead ‘of 1724, frow center front orothack ta the! tte seen, foe jor closer fitting garments, 1 728 grade is|oretecteds URDERGARWENT DRAFTING (Bra and Panties Foundation) es Pot HU SHOULDER STRAP —S center |? BACK PANTIES SELYEDGE usser BRA WITH TRIPLE BUST OARTS | PANTIES WITH GUSSET rm 99 The'bral hich Is an abbreviated rascfefer nas the uplift outi or the cup shape fitting, sul table for. tho misses and jumior si figures Thig “bra*style has aarts, The panties are cut. on the bias and have gusset sections at loner part of front and backs triple bust 1 Use the hid fenoth dress foundation (Size"Tg}"tas'a guide, Trace front and back to waiStliné only: than Trace" the hip sections vagoyt 2° Below warstiine. llrk Sections Rto'd,"as iilusteated. Reduce 1/2" at side to nothing at ips Reduce 1/2" at cmter back waistline tovnothing at neck, and to 1/4* at fine Draw Straight ‘shouldor. to Front and Back. For panties. continue tines down and shape tower edge, as" shown by'dotted Ines. line from center {op of Manet in 1 Draft the'ora” as indicated by dotted Tiness" then make shoulder Straps 1/2" wise. For panties, reduee front + at waistiine to nothing at hip, by losing! up rant ear, ths, sorbade jog, below nip. Weduce alt of daze gt back” waist! ine (leaving 2'3/4¥ dart) To nothing at nine Soreading. lower edge, as iI lus tated. Draft gusset, sections at center front “and= hack, a8 shown by aotted Tines. ur Cut out front and back of the brat sections; then bring A and'B for yether” and" and’ & together, a3 Frustrated. For shoulder strap, join and back seetions in 'one. For elastic. in back, cut off 2° fron center ‘back of section € for’ a d¥ strip of elastic, as shown in diagram 19, front. Ww For @ cup shaped fitting, slash Front between A-and G, and spread USE Breast oornt. For the bust darts, wake the first dart a Tong “and. '1/3 tha wideh OF the spraad at. lover edge. Make ehatning darts ax shown in'dlagran Allow geans and draw grain lines ‘on’ bra® sections. : a Make the onti ce panties patterns then ‘sack’ slash Tnes *3:173" long at ceater front and back’ for the gusset sections. Allow seas and make correspond ing totehes. | Mark positions for oanet seat a5 shown by dotted lines. 4H, B,C ana 8, and pleate Hark'SeBt ions sous mar ¥ - Gre ‘ Z » D> \Ney-| 7 y wa arent \llustration shows “bra” with front panel aa Use the'bra’ foundation (page 77, diagran *Preeding for the 2 pleats. = fae U Draw V-shaped lines, if darts are desired Ai ak ow for seams, mar k grain tine, 2" correspond ng no cheer ang SHOULDER STRAP BLasric om BRA FOUNDATION, ur i This style ‘bra’ has horizontal seae across Front seetions. Pattern is so cut, tho cup shape Fittings 1 Use the ‘brat foundation as described a~ bove for Style Te n center front into 2 equal parts, tit gives the’bra’ divide and side sean in 2 equal parts; then drae “horizontal sean fine, ae. shown by dotted Tine. Wark sections’ Ay Band C. ur Close up dart between 8 and Cc. w Alloy seams in upper and lower {rant see tions; then ‘mark grain lines and, make corresponding notenes. 1 & %, %, SEAM AT CENTER cP The panties and gussets are There are no cide soans. Eliminate’ the wart dart in back spread below hip, as IIlustrated. Round off corners along center front 1 and” back “at gussets, as. shown by Use the panties foundation (shown on dotted lin page 77, diagram Ht) as a guides For left sida opning draw a 6* fine Trace, front and back (including the at side. gussets) with side seans" together. Mark grain line, allow for seane and aid make Corresponding notches. UNDERGARMENT ORAFTING (Combination Style} (CENTER FRONT \lustration shows brassiere with bust’ grthers, ane panties with guesets This garwoat ie usually worn in placevof a stip under a dross of Reavier material and Is aboot. 2° Tonger than the regulation panties Fength. t Uso the,hip,Jength, dress. founda Tien Side? gee, Reduce 1/2" at side t0 nothing at ie Redice 2" at cantar back waistline Ie estalhe MafuscaMana" tot /ae cai Draw straight tine from center of Shaeraer" 8 top oF Gare" ta foes ee for ‘panties, continue. tines down End shage. Tower’ e8ge;'a2 Showa) Ea inal! 1 Draft, the brassiere as indicated by"dotted’ Ines: then rake shoul= der strans 1/3" widesdark. sections Whois (For cup shape fitting, stash de- tween’ A and C and sptead'(* at Breast point, as shown on page 77, aiagran Tv a1 Separate the beassiere sections, in Front and back; then eloge up the front dart between A'andB,” and continue lover, seam tine to’ side, as "shown by" dotted lines Bring sections E and F togethar tn conafete’ backs For panties, bring sections © and D together. ‘and Gand H together, above the hipline, spreading sec” Bons below hip'aé illustrated. Draft gusset, sections at center front and back,as shown by dotted w ake the entire brassiere and panties pattora; then mark slash tines at Tower edge of center front. and back’ for gusset Sections. Allow seans, mark grain Tines and ake" corresponding matches. UNDERGARMENT DRAFTING (2 Styles of Brassieres Suitable for Ladies Sizes) 93 ‘CENTER FRONT, 3Ove BIND FRONT STYLE | ‘ | Use the hin tonath dase foundstion (size 16) 26 9 guide: We, EBGutaP /SUONE SFSee Seg gan Ripe ae kad Sentes back waistline to nothing at neck and to 174" at hip. | Droy stealaht lines. fron center of shoulder to top of dart PeeF SRAM hack thas Boal rassl fen a8 sheen Bp dotted Maatctagbmscaa foes Arash? Ir | Separate the 3 front section, and 2 back sections a6 illstatat Cidsina upfront dart. between A and @ithen nark the position for the Pleats in section Be uit and av Sige aty lol ataee cis ontande' heat oebajev ina Slash along the 2 pleat tines; then close up waist dart, waistline, and fastens to” the foundation or Spreading evenly for’ the 2 pleats. Corset, ta fold the brassiere in position. Allow seams, mark grain lines and make corresoonding notches. 7 ‘SHOULDER STRAP Gow FRONT v7 eam Back’ qv ' SHOULDER STRAP ZS ‘i 5 ER CA nal ql tne sme e OFFER ONT owt a gL as 1 Use the dress foundation (size,16) to waistline only: then Feduce 1/2" at side sean, and 1/2at ceater back waistline to nothing at neck. Draw straight line froa center of shoulder te, top of dart in front and back, and. make shoylder strap |/2" wide. | Oraf drassiere ae shown ay dotted lines and hark sections A to G. E together, and F and G together, aé i! lustrat a and Iv 11 Close up front dart Retnoen A. and B, std bring goction © and at breast point; then draw V-shaped Lines. for dar cree Draw the horizontal sean line as shown by dotted line; then This style brassiere is suitable for ladies and Separate as shown In diagram 1¥, lesee Sises, and’ extends tov i172" above. the For,cup shape fitting, slash between, A and C and spread 1" ¥ Mark grain Vines, add seans and nake corresponding notches. STRAIGHT SLIP DRAFT {For Undergarnent Drafting, ‘GOT wove WIND : jee Pages 86 to 68) Illustrations show slip with oointed ge Straight upper edge’ ovt lines Front.has 2 side darts for fitting, over the busts engthwise darts in front and back the garment a closer Titting vaist- fine. Trace front and back dress foundat ions ther reduce I /2""at side to nothing at Nips Draw straight line from center of shouider to'top of dart "in front and sek Draw side dart Lines, as illustrated. 1 Draw lower neck and armhole lines, as Shown by dotted Ince, making’ shatldee strap 5* Tong in front and 6 long tn back. Slash along side, dart tines; thon Close up trent dart 0 straighten cone fer Front Tines ur Draw Voshaped ines, 3 long, for each side Wart. straight lines down to re quired Tenath and \shape’ Botton, “aa Shown by datted lines. For straight wpe alge outline, square ine across from exiter front and Backs making underarm sean a Iletie highek fs TTustrateds Allow seams on all edges but center Front and’ back. w Diagram below shows cutting layout, for'stralyht slide The bias strips are for underfacing the neck and arahale edges. FOLD OF MATERIAL PRINCESS SLIP DRAFT 95 STiusteation ehows princess slip,with hecki {ne about 6" lower at canter’ front and'?* Tower. at. conter back; armoie 71 2eepor than dress acahole, at OR 1 sing the dress (hip length) founda tionas's guide, trace front ‘and bac then “trace the’ darts. Draw straight line from center of Shoulder to°tap of cart in front and ack. "Bark sections A,8,C,0 and E. Reduce width of front and’ back 1/24 Biinust and waret to nothing at pip as shown Py dotted Ines. | n Woke neckline 8° towsr in front and FAowercin back, raw arahole 1-1 725 Jeepers Wake -snoulder steap 4* long from and 4 long. 10 dack~ Cut out front and back sections, and Separate! then ae shown in diagrai (11. Mate center front line straight by Weifoing” sectrons Aland B togethers Chabine Front and back part of shoul dor strap in one, mt Trace the 4 sections, Imaving enough Zpace for the. lower’ part of the si’ BNeique straight fines down to "ree hulred fengthi then shape totton, as Shown by dotted |ines. Draw arrows for grain lines by squaring from hiptine For a cyp shane {i Lting over the bust, Aig Peo front sect ont at breast point; than subtract 4% 3° below Breast potnt,as shown by dotted Vines. Shape upper vart of side front, about TBF" gonarce aruhole, as illustrated. GOT WOVE IND Complete pattern by-adding seans and aking corresponai ng notches. 6 Diagram below shows how to tay pattern on the’ goods. ho bias strips are for underfactne Aedktand armhole #8908. loner adge of slip way he finished wth nareaw Rome BIAS SLIP DRAFT SELVEDGE FRONT 96 A bias slip has several acvantagas, Sone of which arey It does not require a placket at the lett sidoyuhich efininates a sewing operation: ‘t molds better to the form aroune busty waist and hip, due to the mae PeeiaI"Being’on the'bias. 1 Trace frontiand back éress founda- fon" hip lenpeh}s then reduce at side and draw fines to shoulder in Yrant“and’ back, a6 Illustrated. in Draw lower neckline and armhole, as shown by dotted lines: then. divide Front and back in” 4 sections and ark then A, 8, Cand 0, Separate each section and close up front dart as shown in diagran itl Make shoulder strap in one parte Trace the 4 sections on ancther sheet OF paper, at towing enaugh room. for an entice tront and back, a "shown by. dotted Ines. Mack grain Lines and aake corres ponding notches. The bias strips are for lower edge binding. The upper front and.back sections may be ited. ‘SELVEDGE, The cutting diagrax above shows how to lay bias slip pattern on the goods. If piecings are required, they must be Taid on the sane lengthwise grain. DRAFT OF PAJAUA TOP CENTER| BACK FOLD WAIST UNE 7 Jacket is loose fitting, and features double Shoulder tucks In front. It may be worn tucked in, oF over the trousers. Arnhole is slightly deeper, and sleeve ic flat ath top of “cap, the seme ac tho mannish chet sleeves 1 Using the dress foundation as 2 guide, draw slash TTnes. for the tucks as indicated, Mark Sections Ay 8 ang C. ig Slash alone tuck lines and spread by closing up front “dart, and forming stralont center front Tne. Make Gne tuck 4" long and the other, $°3/4"- m Make shoulder 1/* longer, arnhole 1/4* deeper, and nake side wider ae Indicates Lengthen Jacket 1/2" below hipline at center Back and sige, to I* at canter fronts for front closing overlap, add 1* to center “iront; then lower the neck it at center fronts ‘curving the outline as indicated Ww Wark, positions for button and buttonhales, 4° apart. Draft pocket 4-1/2" X 4-1/2". For facings, in front and pack, draft as show by dotted’ ines. Add seams and hems; then mske corresponding sotches. ORAFT OF SLEEVE I Teace outline of jocket front, and mark soint A and'6 at side Seshae Ingleatea Locate soint ¢ on sige seam line by having A to eoeual TS oF Vine A= Bs then lotate yolnt Dt deepest art of arshola(about 2*from side soon); ‘then connect € to 0. : Trace lover part of armhole and upper part of side sean to Sososite efdevof fine C5 25° chown byrdotted Hfnessthen mark point Eas Indicates “ u Draft sleeve as foltons: NAF to G~ Equals everacm Jength. draw this line by continuing” chou te wrlete Sto ~ Envals 1/2 of wrist measure plus 21/2. H to E = Connect for underarm sean line. m Trace other hat of sleeve to opposite side of Tine FoC'as shown by datted tines 1 Make front part of sleeve cap 3/8" lover as In stented © nee THolteyre, dtl |ghtgrse in the sleeve cap, sag [erat each side of sieeve as shown oy "dotted faer Vine” “straight ‘Ade seams and hem; then make corresponding notches. CORRESPCNDING ARM MEASUREMENTS OVERARH (ENGHi| 2-174] 26-576 | 23 [2-3/8 |23-3/4! WRIST WEASURE| 6-1/4] 1/2 | @-374| 7 | 7-1/4] Misses sizes | 12 Jia [ie |g | ORAFT OF PAJAMA TROUSERS! PATTERN 98 Illustrations, show ankle _lenoth or short, trousers, 5 HatSIAG ke AI fel Feo dE, sin, eB, far of te Bras ction trace fot Fe efotc. goth in gajan trousers ually 1" ceener 4 (Be afegionos hole te bat Tne, Sleight actos than‘Tn Shasta or soon dear afore, ehareeste anges tance, "fran ta to E°in’ Siagran f+ "etuale efGteh dopth For ankle. Length trovsersy graft, according to the jun- sUostraset, plus G+ for Saal epaMMM Soot End HOTESEss Sea eT Sas! Ze Ts Tos] 7 ice [6 o -e S aes s72 7 | ERSTE BARTS TSRGTR Ato ¢ fis Wahis-W/era-ara] Ta) S W7ehieara] 14 la-a/a]_16_[t=1/al Ecuale crotch cepth (2 case’ tne! isea) 2 pl ine on dress foundation. € 2 af C to Es 7 6 72 of € fo F E 75 of E te Fh i fo'd, plus’2", raw this line fron # to Ky. touching Center back waistline of dress. foundat ion. K Braw st Tghtly curved line fron K to side" Seen, 1" gs at waistline,

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