FRIED

CHICKEN
SANDWICH
FTW!

HOW
BROOKLYN
GOBBLED
THE WORLD

P.61

P.98

AVOCADO +
CHOCOLATE
...WAIT, WHAT?

THE NEXT
CULT
SUPERFOOD

HOW TO
EAT LIKE
YEEZY

P.97

P.66

P.70

115
RE C I PE S
T I PS &
T R I C KS

The
Issue
HOW DID
WE ALL GET SO
FOOD
OBSESSED?

PICTUREPERFECT
MARGHERITA
AT ROBERTAS
IN NYC

Blow Up
Your Feed!
10 LAWS OF
INSTAGRAM
P.76

B O N A P P T I T VO LU M E 6 1 N U M B E R 3
THE CULTURE ISSUE

march
Quick!
Gram that pizza
while its hot!

F E AT U R E

59101

T h e C u l t u re I s s ue
Its official: The worlds gone food crazy
Chicken sandwiches are eating burgers lunchBuilding a better salad lunch is easy
The Broad City ladies give us the munchies

Edibles get artisanal

Coconuts in everythingRappers are rhyming escargot

Corporate dropouts are launching food careersAmerica is truly a melting potIndependent

just keep on comin...

food journals

Ben Schott writes a Dictionary of Allergies and DietsInstagramming your food is an art

formWaiting in line for hours is totally normalThese ingredients can

save the worldThis generation

spends all its money on foodLuxury giants are fighting over crumbsEvery city has its own small-batch hooch
Celebs are opening natural wine barsThese seven people are changing the future of food
festivals are the new food festivalsThere is an actually

4 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

Music

delicious vegan dessertBrooklyn is everywhere

PHOTOGRAPH BY PEDEN + MUNK. FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON. ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN. PHOTOGRAPHED AT ROBERTAS PIZZA, NYC.
NAIL POLISH: OPI, RICH GIRLS & PO-BOYS (TOP); ESSIE, SPLASH OF GRENADINE (BOTTOM). FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

P. 76

B O N A P P E T I T.C O M

THE CULTURE ISSUE

march
STA RT E R S

T H E B A K I TC H E N

C O LU M N S

17
THE LOOK

31
THE PARTY

12
R.S.V.P.

Our favorite
restaurants are giving
their walls and
floors a makeover
one tile at a time.

Take a Roman holiday

and celebrate
Easter, Italian style.

Reader requests
andeven more
intense reader
requests.

20
CHEFS PICK
You already know
that a squeeze
of lemon elevates
almost every
dish. Just imagine
what all that
other citrus can do.

22
THE BA
CHECKLIST
Jewel-like candy
from the Rockies.

Edible nail polish,

in-season seaweed,
and more of this
months musts.

P. 63

24
LOVE LETTER
A man with
a pan obsession.
BY RUSSELL MOORE

26
THE 360
Rye whiskey is
the new bourbon.
BY BRAD THOMAS
PARSONS

39
FAST, EASY,
FRESH
Sweet and spicy
pork chops, crunchy
winter slaw, and
other recipes that
will help you forget
its still cold out.
RECIPES BY
CLAIRE SAFFITZ

44
THE NEW
HEALTHY
The best-tasting
medicine
youve ever had.
BY BELLE CUSHING

50
NAVIGATOR
Vancouver is the
underdog of the
Pacific Northwest.
BY AMIEL STANEK

107
PREP SCHOOL
The perfect fried
chicken dredge,
how to use all that
gochujang, and
other new ideas.

114
BACK OF
THE NAPKIN
Comedian Chelsea
Handler on the
art of the boozy
dinner party.
BY SARAH Z. WEXLER

IN EVERY ISSUE
10 editors letter
112 recipe index
112 sourcebook
ON THE COVER

Margherita pizza
at Robertas.
Photograph by
Peden + Munk.
Food styling by
Rebecca Jurkevich.
Prop styling by
Amy Wilson.
Illustrations by Oscar
Bolton Green. Ring
by In God We Trust.
Nail polish: Essie,
Splash of Grenadine
(top); OPI, Rich Girls
& Po-Boys (bottom).

HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? E-mail us at askba@bonappetit.com, or contact the editorial ofices: Bon Apptit, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.
FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.) or e-mail subscriptions@bonappetit.com. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

PHOTOGRAPH BY BENJAMIN RASMUSSEN. FOOD STYLING BY ERIC LESKOVAR.

BY SARI LEHRER

RECIPES BY RITA SODI

AND JODY WILLIAMS

THE REAL RULE IS YOU

SHO ULD NT D O I T AT ALL . B UT
IF YOURE GOING TO DO IT
ANY WAY, YOU B ROK E THE RU L E ,
SO GO FOR IT! PEOPLE ALREADY
HAT E YOU. M I GHT AS WE L L
MAKE YOUR FOOD LOOK AS
GOOD AS POSSIBLE .

Editor in Chief

ADAM RAPOPORT

Creative Director ALEX GROSSMAN

Executive Editor CHRISTINE MUHLKE Deputy Editor ANDREW KNOWLTON
Food Director CARLA LALLI MUSIC
Features Editor KURT SOLLER
Senior Editors JULIA KRAMER, MERYL ROTHSTEIN
Assistant Editors BELLE CUSHING, AMIEL STANEK
Art Director KRISTIN EDDINGTON
Senior Designer ALAINA SULLIVAN
Designer ALEX TATUSIAN
Junior Designer ROSIE NABEREZNY

Photo Director ALEX POLLACK

Photo Editor JULIA DUQUETTE PORTER
Associate Photo Editors EMILY EISEN, ELIZABETH JAIME OSCOFF
Staf Photographer ALEX LAU

W H AT A R E
YO U R R U L E S
F O R TA K I N G
PHOTOS
AT D I N N E R ?

Recipe Editor LIESEL DAVIS

Senior Food Editors ANDY BARAGHANI, CHRIS MOROCCO
Senior Associate Food Editor CLAIRE SAFFITZ
Associate Food Editor, Digital RICK MARTINEZ
Test Kitchen Manager BRAD LEONE
Production Director CRISTINA MARTINEZ
Assistant Production Manager ALEX DELANY
Associate Managing Editor FAYE CHIU MOSLEY
Copy Chief GREG ROBERTSON
Research Director CHRISTINE PENBERTHY
Special Projects Associate LILLI SHERMAN
Editorial Business Assistant JOSHUA OCAMPO
Assistant to the Editor in Chief EMMA WARTZMAN
Integrated Editorial Assistant JOSIE ADAMS

Editor, Bonappetit.com CAREY POLIS

Senior Editor, Web ALEX BEGGS
Senior Associate Web Editor ROCHELLE BILOW Associate Web Editor ELYSSA GOLDBERG
Assistant Web Editor CHRISTINA CHAEY Digital Recipe Editor JILL BAUGHMAN
Head of Product ERIC GILLIN Product Manager BRENDAN BRYANT
Senior Software Engineer DANYLO BERKO
Software Engineers JUAN MIGUEL JAVIER, ALAN SIEGLER
Contributors REBECCA JURKEVICH, DAVID LYNCH, YOTAM OTTOLENGHI,
MICKEY RAPKIN, JENNY ROSENSTRACH, BEN SCHOTT, ANDY WARD;
LILY FREEDMAN, AMELIA RAMPE (TEST KITCHEN); JUDY DEYOUNG, BAO ONG (RESEARCH);
BEN VINA (TABLET); MALLORY STUCHIN (WEB);
BRIAN CARROLL, CLARE OSHEA, MARISA RYAN, ROB STAEGER (COPY)
Executive Director, Public Relations FREDERIKA BROOKFIELD
Associate Director, Public Relations DAN ALDWORTH

IF YOURE WITH
C O M PA N Y, N O E L A B O R AT E
P RE ME AL GRAMMI NG
YOURE HOLDING UP YOUR
FELLOW (HUNGRY!) DINERS.
IF DINING SOLO, FILTER
THE S * * T OU T OF THAT
GRAI N B OWL .

Publisher, Chief Revenue Oficer

PAMELA DRUCKER MANN

Associate Publisher, Head of Marketing ERIC JOHNSON
Head of Revenue CRAIG KOSTELIC
National Directors, Advertising & Brand Partnerships JULIA HAWKINS, JORDANA PRANSKY
Executive Director, Finance & Business Operations JENNA ADIKES
Executive Director, Insights & Strategy COURTNEY WARCO VERDIER
Executive Director, Marketing & Creative Strategy BREE MCKENNEY
ADVERTISING NEW YORK
ITS ALL ABOUT
Executive Director, Finance & New England MELISSA GOOLNICK
Executive Director STEFANIE BERGER
N ATUR AL L IGH T. IVE
Account Director, Beauty & Luxury JEANNIE LIVESAY
BE E N K N OW N TO SN EA K
Account Director JULIE GRAYBILL
A D I S H O R T WO OV E R
Account Director DEBORAH KNUDSEN
TO A W IN DOW.
Associate Planning Director MARY BETH DWYER
Digital Account Managers MIA KLEIN, ISABEL KIERENCEW
Associate Business Managers JACQUI SNYDER, STEPHANIE SONG
Executive Assistant to the Publisher DANI ROSEN
Advertising Coordinator SARAH ROBERTSON
Sales Assistants JEHOSHUA BROWN, GISELLE CONTRERAS, NATALIA KUDRYK,
KATHLEEN MALONEY, DEVON MCCALLUM, SUSIE STOKLOSA, CATHERINE TOUHILL
INTEGRATED MARKETING & CREATIVE DEVELOPMENT
Senior Integrated Marketing Director RACHEL BOYSCHAU
Branded Content Director KAT POPIEL
Integrated Marketing Directors DINA BIBLARZ, HAYLEY RUSSMAN
Marketing Director HILLARY SMITH
Senior Managers, Integrated Marketing CHRISTIN DEMARIA, ALEX HOPSON, TARA MELVIN
Integrated Marketing Managers STEVEN MARINOS, NINA BOLKA, ADAM BROCK
Senior Manager, Digital Activation KATHERINE TOWNSEND
Digital Project Managers KRISTIE YEUNG, NATALIE MERIN
Marketing Coordinator KELLY QUACKENBUSH
Creative Director SARAH SALVATORIELLO
Art Director MELISSA WALTERS
Special Events Director NIKKI REISS
Senior Special Events Manager JAMIE RUDOLPH
Senior Special Events Coordinator JENNIFER CASSEL
Marketing Coordinator HANNAH MICLEY
THE BON APPTIT CULINARY STUDIO
Executive Chef MARY NOLAN

MY RULES CAN BE SUMMED

UP IN THE LYRICS OF BUBBA
SPARXXX: GET IT RIPE .
GE T IT R IGH T. GE T IT TIGH T.

BRANCH OFFICES
Detroit ANNE GREEN, DIRECTOR
Los Angeles MELISSA LEE, DIRECTOR Midwest JENNA ERNSTER, DIRECTOR
Midwest PAMELA QUANDT, DIRECTOR Northwest KATHRYN SOTER, DIRECTOR
Southeast PETER ZUCKERMAN, Z-MEDIA, INC. Southwest LEWIS STAFFORD COMPANY
Hawaii LOREN MALENCHEK, MALENCHEK & ASSOCIATES Mexico ALCHEMIA

Artistic Director

ANNA WINTOUR

PUBLISHED BY COND NAST

Chairman Emeritus S.I. NEWHOUSE, JR.
Chairman CHARLES H. TOWNSEND
President & Chief Executive Oficer ROBERT A. SAUERBERG,

JR.

Chief Financial Oficer DAVID E. GEITHNER

Chief Marketing Oficer & PresidentCond Nast Media Group EDWARD J. MENICHESCHI
Chief Administrative Oficer JILL BRIGHT
EVPChief Digital Oficer FRED SANTARPIA
EVPConsumer Marketing MONICA RAY
EVPHuman Resources JOANN MURRAY
EVPCorporate Communications CAMERON BLANCHARD
SVPOperations & Strategic Sourcing DAVID ORLIN
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SVPManaging Director23 Stories JOSH STINCHCOMB
SVPDigital Sales, CN & Chief Revenue Oficer, CN LISA VALENTINO
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SVPStrategy23 Stories PADRAIG CONNOLLY
SVPAd Products & Monetization DAVID ADAMS
COND NAST ENTERTAINMENT
President DAWN OSTROFF
EVP/General ManagerDigital Video JOY MARCUS, EVPChief Operating Oficer SAHAR ELHABASHI
EVPMotion Pictures JEREMY STECKLER, EVPProgramming & Content StrategyDigital Channels MICHAEL KLEIN
EVPAlternative TV JOE LABRACIO, SVPMarketing & Partner Management TEAL NEWLAND
COND NAST INTERNATIONAL
Chairman & Chief Executive JONATHAN NEWHOUSE
President NICHOLAS COLERIDGE
Cond Nast is a global media company producing premium content for more than 263 million consumers in 30 markets.
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8 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

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editors letter
FOLLOW ADAM
ON TWITTER,
INSTAGRAM, AND
SNAPCHAT AT
@RAPO4

Adam getting
schooled
by musicianturned-foodwriter Questlove
at a BA party

Five years ago, when we relaunched Bon Apptit, we wanted

to put together a food magazine that was about more than just
whats for dinner.
Why? Because something was starting to happen. Food was
becoming a thing. It wasnt just for certiied foodies anymore
everybody was getting into it.
So we built a staf of editors with a range of backgrounds.
Executive editor Christine Muhlke, whos absurdly knowledgeable about both food and fashion, came from T: The New York
Times Style Magazine. Our visually gifted creative director,
Alex Grossman, arrived from a high-gloss branding agency. And
while Andrew Knowlton remains our longest-tenured stafer, he
is someone whos just as likely to go on about his annual list of
our best new restaurants as he is his latest Grateful Dead download (current favorite: Live at Fillmore East2/13/70).
The reality is, we as a nation of eaters have evolved. Weve
transitioned away from a world of food TV and celebrity chefs
where you had to be a card-carrying foodie to talk about food
with any authorityto one where everyone has a stake in the
game. Food has gone wideit has become, of all things, cool.
Which is how we have arrived here, at our irst-ever Culture
Issue. On the following pages, we tap into the intersection of
food and music and entertainment and politics and more. We
poke just a bit of fun at how obsessed millennials are with eating
1 0 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

(can you imagine saving up your hard-earned drinking money

when you were 23 to go to a Scandinavian pop-up dinner?). And
we break down the iner points of Instagramming (natural light
only! directly overhead preferred!). Because if you dont snap
and share a photo of your meal, it never happened, right?
And while this new generation still loves Martha and Ina,
we now have a roster of food fans out there to call our own
musicians like Beyonc (with her Yale-lettered KALE sweatshirt)
and Questlove, whose book Something to Food About: Exploring
Creativity with Innovative Chefs hits stores next month. Even
our president has gotten in on the fervor, joining the throngs
lined up outside Roses Luxury for D.C.s inest meal (okay, maybe
hes the one person who was allowed to cut the legendary line).
The fact is, food culture isnt niche anymore. And as it has
changed, Bon Apptit has changed with it. Nowadays, everyone
is invited to the table, and we love that. It makes for a far more
interesting dinner table conversation and, I like to think, a far
more dynamic magazine.

ADAM RAPOPORT
EDITOR IN CHIEF

PHOTOGRAPH BY RYAN MCCUNE/PATRICK MCMULLAN COMPANY

WA I T, W H E N D I D
F O O D G E T S O C O O L?

r. s.v.p.
Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you?
E-mail us at rsvp@bonappetit.com*

Not everything is
black and whitelike
the photos of these
dishes in full-color
glory at bonappetit
.com/rsvp

DEAR BON APPTIT,

IVE GONE THROUGH AN
ENTIRE CONTAINER OF
GOCHUJANG TRYING TO
RE-CREATE THE ADDICTIVE
BRAISED CHICKEN FROM
OIJI IN NYC, AND I CANT GET
CLOSE TO THE ORIGINALS
UMAMI-PACKED SPICE.
YOURE MY LAST HOPE.
BRAD ALLEN, Walpole, MA

GOCHUJANG-BRAISED
CHICKEN AND CRISPY RICE
4 SERVINGS Now that you have an entire
container of gochujang, its time to
learn more ways to use it on page 107.
1 small onion, finely chopped
8 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 2" piece ginger, peeled,
finely grated
cup gochujang (Korean hot
pepper paste)
cup soy sauce
2 Tbsp. sugar
1 Tbsp. mirin
1 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper,
plus more
3 cups cooked short-grain rice
1 tsp. ground cumin
tsp. garlic powder

Ask the Test

Kitchen
Q: I loved seeing your office
kitchens in the pages of the
magazine [April 2015], but you
never told us who does the
dishes! SARAH OVERINGTON,
Whitehorse, the Yukon
1 2 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

tsp. mustard powder

8 chicken drumsticks, patted dry
Kosher salt
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
6 scallions, white and pale-green
parts only, cut into 1" pieces
Mix onion, garlic, ginger, gochujang,
soy sauce, sugar, mirin, sesame oil,
and 1 tsp. pepper in a medium bowl
to combine; set sauce aside.
Toss rice, cumin, garlic powder, and
mustard powder in a medium bowl to
combine; spread out on a parchmentlined rimmed baking sheet and chill
until cold, about 1 hour.
Meanwhile, season chicken generously
with salt. Heat butter and vegetable
oil in a medium heavy pot over medium.

As soon as foaming subsides, add

chicken and cook, turning occasionally,
until lightly browned, about 5 minutes.
Add reserved sauce and bring to a
simmer; cook until sauce appears to thin
out, about 3 minutes. Add broth and
bring to a boil. Reduce heat, partially cover
pot, and simmer, turning occasionally,
until chicken is very tender, 4555 minutes.
Divide rice into 4 portions; form into
"-thick disks (moisten hands with water
to prevent sticking). Heat a large nonstick
skillet over medium. Working in 2 batches,
cook rice cakes, turning halfway through,
until crisp, pufed, and golden, about
10 minutes. Transfer to plates.
Add scallions to chicken and cook
until tender, about 3 minutes. Season
with salt and pepper. Top each cake
with 2 chicken legs and a few scallions;
spoon plenty of sauce over.

Meet: AMELIA RAMPE , test kitchen assistant Cooking for: Ten years
Before BA: Cooked at ABC Kitchen and Nougatine at Jean-Georges
A: I do a lot of dishes as test kitchen assistant. I also cross-test recipes
and make sure everything is in its place. A food editor needs a specific
ingredient or tool? I know where it is. It may not be the most glamorous
job, but it comes with a pretty good view from our offices at 1 World Trade
Center. Plus, I can tell my teenage daughter to do the dishes at home.

* S U B M I SS I O N S B EC O M E T H E P RO P E RT Y O F B O N A P P T I T .

THE CHEF SAYS:

DEAR BON APPTIT,

COFAX IN L.A. IS
MY GO-TO COFFEE SHOP.
I WOULD LOVE TO KNOW
HOW THE GENIUSES THERE
MANAGED TO COMBINE
THREE OF MY FAVORITE
BEVERAGESCOLD BREW,
HORCHATA, AND A LATTE
INTO ONE MAGICAL ELIXIR.
I NEED THIS IN MY
LIFE ON A DAILY BASIS.

Feel free to add more

coffee for a stronger drink,
or even steam it to make a hot
latte. The important part is
not to rush: Let the horchata
mixture sit in the fridge to
really meld all the flavors.
NICOLE RUCKER,
chef, Cofax

Re:
Desperation
We get lots of
requests in the
R.S.V.P. in-box, but
some e-mails take
Please help! to
the next level. Here,
ten needy subject
lines that demanded
our attention.

Scone crisis!

ANNIKA FINNE, L.A.

ICED HORCHATA LATTE

4 SERVINGS If you feel like
experimenting, try using cashews
or pecans in place of the almonds.

ILLUSTRATIONS: LARRY JOST (CHICKEN AND RICE, LATTE); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (PORTRAIT, MUG, ENVELOPE).
FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

cup brown rice

Tbsp. cofee beans
cup raw almonds
cinnamon stick, crushed
cup sugar
Pinch of kosher salt

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A spice mill

or cofee grinder
Using spice mill or cofee grinder,
coarsely grind rice and transfer to a 2-qt.
airtight container. Coarsely grind cofee
beans and place in same container
as rice. Add almonds, cinnamon stick,
and 4 cups water. Cover and let soak
in refrigerator overnight.
Bring sugar and cup water to a
boil in a small saucepan, swirling pan
occasionally to dissolve sugar, about
3 minutes. Transfer simple syrup to
a heatproof container; cover and chill
until cool, at least 30 minutes.
Transfer rice mixture to a blender
and blend until very smooth. Strain
through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium
bowl, pressing on solids to extract
as much liquid as possible. Sweeten latte
to taste with simple syrup and add salt.
Serve over ice.
DO AHEAD: Latte can be made 3 days
ahead. Cover and chill.

Pregnant and
a pancake
predicament

Maybe I am
being greedy?

A truly
impossible
challenge

Blue crab OMG

beignets

The arepa
that changed
my life

Chocolate chip
cookies worth
befriending your
enemies for

I mean

I left my heart in
Jackson Hole

Yes, its the

coffee cake
stalker AGAIN

M A RC H 2 0 1 6 1 3

W H E R E G R E AT TA S T E B E G I N S

Are you
getting the urge
to renovate? Find
buying info for the
tiles on this page
in Sourcebook,
page 112.

Were
Floored
by all the
beautiful tile
were spotting at
restaurants. Read
our tips for taking
the trend home
by
SARI LEHRER
photographs by
TED CAVANAUGH

M A RC H 2 0 1 6 1 7

The Look

Penny
Tile
The LBD of tile:
simple, classic,
and never goes
out of style. The
quintessential
look for brasseries,
bistros, and oyster
bars, these ittybitty rounds are
being used on
floors in basic
patterns or to spell
out a restaurants
name (as at Kindred
in Davidson, NC).

BEST FOR

The affordable
tile is great for
kitchen floors at
home, says Wendy
Haworth, the
designer behind
L.A.s Gracias
Madre. Just make
sure to choose
a darker grout
penny tiles
numerous edges
can stain easily.
S P OT T E D AT

Le Sel, Nashville;
Denver Union
Station, Denver
BUY IT

Ann Sacks Savoy

Mosaic line offers
multiple colors.
annsacks.com

Hawaiian-influenced restaurant Liholiho Yacht

Club in San Francisco issues a warm welcome.

1
Patterned
Tile
Marrakech.
Mexico City. Havana.
Patterned tile is the
design equivalent of
landing somewhere
exotic. From sharp,
modern graphics to
traditional Moroccan,
patterns grab the
eye, creating a focal
point for a room.
PRO TIP

Use judiciously!
Though bravado
need not be limited
to commercial
use, at home youre
best off laying this
tile on a patio or in
a small space like
an entryway for
a jewel-box effect.
Have fun with the
pattern, but youd
be wise to think of
it like a tattoo: You
should still want
to look at it a year
from now. Aim
for timeless and
unplaceable,
says Dolores Suarez
of New Yorks
Dekar Design.
1 8 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

At Gracias Madre in
L.A., tiles sourced from
Oaxaca line the bar.

S P OT T E D AT

Juniper, Austin;
Ironside Fish &
Oyster, San Diego
BUY IT

Cl carries both
Moroccan and
modern. cletile.com

3
Subway
2.0
With all due
respect to Balthazars
Keith McNally, theres
more than one way
to lay a subway tile.
Bold colors, tweaked
dimensions, and fresh
layouts are redefining
this favorite. At San
Franciscos Liholiho
Yacht Club, its done
big and bright with
canary-yellow 4x4s;
Chicagos Swift &
Sons lays sagegreen tiles vertically;
and at Farmshop
in Larkspur, CA,
there are entire walls
of textured tiles in
a range of greens.
GO FOR A SPIN

Take a cue from

Murice in Portland,
OR, and The Mill
in SF and put a
twist on the classic
designliterally:
A herringbone-like
pattern doesnt look
like something youve
seen a million times.
BUY IT

Fireclay has vivid

colors and
multiple shapes.
fireclaytile.com

Hand-glazed
Heath tiles
stretch to the
ceiling for a
dramatic look
at Farmshop
in Larkspur, CA.

For advice
from the experts
at Heath Ceramics
(hint: The grout
matters too), go
to bonappetit
.com/tile.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ERIC WOLFINGER (GRACIAS MADRE); MOSES AIPA (LIHOLIHO); MARIKO REED, COURTESY COMMUNE DESIGN (FARMSHOP)

And they look

fabulous
beneath a bar.

Peel & Eat

Want some more
interesting citrus in your
life? Check specialty
grocers, or visit Rising C
Ranches at ripetoyou.com
for mail-order options.

Chef s Pick

6
1

Bright Spots
Todays chefs are
doing way more than
adding a squeeze of
lemon to food. Take
a peek at the modern
chefs acid arsenal

Pomelo

Blood Orange

Satsuma

Sour Orange

Kumquats

Meyer Lemon

Yuzu

Think grapefruit
with less
bitterness and
more rind. We
rip it apart cell by
cell, says Beverly
Kim of Chicagos
Parachute. It
gives nice texture
to fish dishes.
(You can just eat
it in segments.)

Molly Mitchell
of Roses Fine
Food in Detroit
candies the
ruby-hued fruit
(with hints of
berry flavor),
great for chopping
up and serving
atop breakfast,
like on Roses
French toast.

Alon Shaya
of New Orleans
Shaya adds
the super-sweet
juice to butternut
squash thats
been sauted
with black-garlic
butter. It cuts
through the
richness of the
butter, he says.

It has the
fruitiness of an
orange but the
acidity of a lime,
says Jose Salazar
of the puckerinducing citrus.
At Cincinnatis
Salazar, he
squeezes it over
scallops; at home it
goes in margaritas.

The team at
Revival Market
makes marmalade
using the
grape-size
kumquats grown
by its Houston
neighbors.
Chef Ryan Pera
then uses it
to fill kolache,
a Czech pastry.

Ori Menashe
of Bestia in
L.A. preserves
Meyer lemons
thin-skinned
varieties with
some of oranges
sweetness
then chops
them up and
adds them to
salsa verde.

The bumpy citrus

doesnt yield
much juice, but
pros love the
fragrant zest.
At Bar Goto in
NYC, Kenta Goto
uses yuzu bitters
(made by infusing
shochu with zest)
to give drinks
a beautiful aroma.

2 0 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU

FOOD STYLING BY ALI NARDI

by MERYL ROTHSTEIN

Seaweed Season Is Upon Us

Yes, there is such a thingand for Ironbound Island
Seaweed, which harvests by hand on the Schoodic
Peninsula of Maine, it begins in spring. Theres no better
time to familiarize yourself with natures vitamin-andmineral all-star. From $25 per lb.; ironboundisland.com
Atla ntic wa ka me
Calcium-loaded darkgreen leaves Try it:
in a cucumber salad

Atla ntic komb u

The deepest-growing
edible seaweed Try
it: in chicken stock

At l ant i c ke l p
Quick-cooking fronds
Try it: added to
bean cooking liquid

C
H
E
C
K
L
I
S
T

EGGSENTIAL!
Just when we
thought there were
no new ways to
cook an egg, along
came these adorable
porcelain vessels
that yield soft-boiled
meals in a cup.
BAs food director,
Carla Lalli Music,
loves the Swedish
ggcddlers
($21; aggcoddler.com)
so much she insisted
we share her recipe:

What to eat,
drink, and
coddle this
month

by
JULIA
KRAMER

BA MOVIE
N I G H T: C I T Y O F
GOLD, OUT
THIS MONTH
I dont know
any Korean that
knows more about
Korean food than
Jonathan Gold.
David C hang,
in the documentary
a b o u t t h e P u l i t ze r
P r i ze w i nni ng
re s t aurant cr i t i c

SHOTS OF
B L A C K D E AT H ,
A N YO N E ?
Better known
for vodka and,
um, mineral water,
Iceland has an
unoficial national
spirit thats gaining
distribution here:
Brennivn. Despite its
foreboding nickname,
Black Death,
the caraway-infused
beverage of Bjrks
homeland tastes like
a gentler aquavit.
Try it in a Bloody
Mary. brennivin.com
for stores
2 2 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

Zak
the Baker

S AY YO U H AV E O N E N I G H T I N M I A M I
5 p.m. Wrap up your visit to the stunning Prez Art Museum with a spritz (and a view) at Verde. 7 p.m.
Dinner at Alter, for a spin on the local catch in an art gallerylike space. 10 p.m. Did someone say cocktails in
gold pineapple glasses? Thats why youre ending with a drinkand if youre lucky, a bedat Ian Schragers
Miami Beach Edition. The morning after: Brave the toast line at Zak the Baker (FYIclosed Saturdays).

Coddled Egg
Place 2 tsp. heavy
cream and a big
pinch each of finely
chopped cooked
ham and chives in
a buttered coddler;
season with salt
and pepper. Add
1 large egg. Top with
2 tsp. heavy cream
and more ham and
chives; season.
Seal; cook 8 minutes
in simmering water.
Serve with buttered
toast. 1 serving

NAIL-BITER
Child-friendly Kid
Licks nail polish
($14; kidlicks.com)
is marketed as
organic, edible,
and made from
food, so...we ate
it. Tasting notes:

Sour Carrot
Tart with faint
whifs of compost

Beet Red
Pleasantly sweet
(and beautifully
plum-colored)

Barley
Grass Green
Grainy mouthfeel,
with the aroma
of a fermenting
juice bar

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX LAU (SEAWEED, GGCDDLER, KID LICKS); TED CAVANAUGH (BRENNIVN, CODDLED EGGS);
PATRICK CHIN (ZAK THE BAKER). FOR MORE DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

T
H
E

A breakfast
as cute as it
is delicious

Love Letter

Iron Man
For Camino
chef Russell
Moore, a friends
flea-market find
turned into a
lifelong love afair
with vintage
cast-iron pans

O N E DAY AT C H E Z PA N I S S E ,

my friend Tony Brush pushed

eight cast-iron Griswold and
Wagner skillets toward me and
said, Here are some pans for
you. We both rode bikes and
liked punk rock, and he was
the line cook we all looked up
to. Suzanne Goin and Michael
Tusk worked there at the time,
but Tony was the guy.
He loved an excuse to buy
old cast iron at flea markets.
They were disasters when he
brought them in, but Tony
would bury them in the coals
in the wood oven for a whole
day and then season them with
lard. He would gift a smooth,

shiny stack to anyone getting

married or having a kid. I got
mine because we were friends
and I probably didnt have a lot
of money at the time. I was 22.
Im 52 now, and I still use
them at Camino, my Oakland
restaurant. They were all I
cooked with when we opened
in 2008. My first cooks were
bad at cast-iron maintenance,
so I gave a lecture: My friend
Tony gave me these. Youve
got to treat them right. How
can you live with yourself?
Cast-iron pans retain heat
well and evenly, and once
theyre seasoned, they have
a fairly nonstick surface. Ive
always been anti-Teflon. Wagner
and Griswold pans are lighter
than Lodges, so theyre easier
to handle, but the companies
are no longer around.
I split one of the pans
cracking shell-on macadamia
nuts, but I still have the rest.
Half are at the restaurant,
where I use them for frittatas
or pakora-style vegetables,
and half are at home, where I
fry eggs and rice in them. Well
never need to buy new pans.
I mean, I dont plan on trying
to crack a macadamia nut again.
AS TOLD TO JULIA BAINBRIDGE

Get thee to eBay

(search for Wagner
or Griswold skillet).
Or head to a flea
market.

To really
cook like Moore,
try out the castiron recipes
in his cookbook
This Is Camino.

24 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

P H OTO G R A P H B Y T E D C AVA N AU G H

PROP STYLING BY MARTIN BOURNE. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

Want
your own?

The 360
DECODE THE LABEL

Proof

So-called
straight
rye has been
aged at least
two years,
with no added
flavor, color,
or additional
spirit.

Its Rye Time

Everything you need
to know about bourbons
cooler cousin
by BRAD THOMAS PARSONS

WHAT A DIFFERENCE A FEW

C E N T U R I E S M A K E . Once

considered a weed, rye is now the

main grain in one of Americas most
sought-after spirits: rye whiskey.
Its bold profile has bartenders finally
moving beyond bourbon. Just
like in bread, rye adds a distinct
spiciness to whiskey, says
Julian Goglia of The Mercury in
Atlanta. That depth makes it a great
match for modern cocktails
(or, of course, for drinking neat).

OG Distiller
Sam Adams may
get the attention
as Americas
patriot brewer,
but George
Washington
distilled rye at
Mount Vernon.
When he died
in 1799, he was
producing 11,000
gallons a year,
making him
Americas largest
whiskey distiller.

S O YO U WA N T TO C A L L YO U R S E L F A N A M E R I C A N RY E . . .

Unlike bourbon, rye whiskey can be made outside of the United States.
To be considered an American rye, the mash bill (blend of grains) must contain
no less than 51 percent rye, making it more peppery and not as sweet as bourbon,
which must be made from 51 percent corn.

Rye must be
aged in new
oak barrels,
but there are
no rules about
how long. If the
bottle doesnt
tell you how old
it is, that means
its been aged at
least four years.

USE IT IN A
C O C K TA I L

Small-

batch,
Double the
handmade,
alcohol by
craft
volume and
youll get the
Often just
proofthe
marketing,
strength of
these words
the alcohol
arent regulated,
at bottling.
rendering them
American rye
meaningless.
must be at least Theyre the all80 proof and
natural of the
at most 160.
booze world.

The Rattlesnake
Vigorously shake 1 large
egg white,* 2 oz. rye
whiskey, 1 oz. lemon
juice, and oz. simple
syrup in a cocktail
shaker until just frothy.
Fill shaker with ice; shake
until outside is frosty,
about 20 seconds. Strain
through a fine-mesh
sieve into a frozen coupe
glass rinsed with Pernod.

BOTTLE SERVICE

What should you be drinking?

A few suggestions:

Hochstadters New York Old Overholt,

Vatted
Distilling
$17
Straight Rye Companys Theres no need
Whiskey, Ragtime Rye, to go boutique.
$35
$48
Old Overholt
and Rittenhouse
The first rye
This neware industry
to use a vatted
school pick
favorites
designation
uses a blend of
for delivering
(meaning a
72 percent rye,
the classic
blend), this mix
a non-GMO
rye profile at
of five straight
variety grown
an afordable
rye whiskeys
in the Finger
price.
sourced from
Lakes region.
distilleries
across North
America is aged
and bottled in
Philadelphia,
where the
distillery was
founded in 1884.

ASK A BARTENDER

A lot of bartenders today are

using more amaro and other
strong, flavorful ingredients in
cocktails, and rye holds up
well to them. It really comes
through and makes itself known.
Peter Novotny, Armoury D.E., Dallas

26 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

P H OTO G R A P H S B Y T E D C AVA N AU G H

FOOD STYLING BY ALI NARDI. PROP STYLING BY MARTIN BOURNE. ILLUSTRATIONS BY CLAIRE MCCRACKEN. FOR MORE DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
*RAW EGG IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR THE ELDERLY, PREGNANT WOMEN, CHILDREN UNDER 4, AND PEOPLE WITH WEAKENED IMMUNE SYSTEMS.

Age
statement

BA
> R EC I P E S, T I P S, A N D M E N U I D E AS F RO M O U R E X P E RTS

Believe it:
Easter is
in March
t his ye a r!

T H E PA R T Y

easter,
italian
style

No one takes Easter more seriously than the Italians.

Just ask Jody Williams and Rita Sodi, the chefs behind Via
Carota, the completely charming trattoria in New Yorks
West Village. The Easter menu that the duo created
artichokes, braised lamb, chocolate semifreddomirrors
the restaurants rustic, timeless, fuss-free approach.
To start the meal, Williams and Sodi set out a platter of

gorgeous raw vegetables. The un-recipe: Find the prettiest

produce that March can pony up (such as slender carrots
and haricots verts, small heads of lettuce, breakfast
radishes, and asparagus). Wash and trim (halving
whatever needs to be halved), then arrange on a platter.
Squeeze lemon juice over everything, sprinkle with flaky
sea salt, and serve with your best olive oil for dipping.

R EC I P E S BY R I TA S O D I A N D J O DY W I L L I A M S P H O T O G R A P H S B Y E V A K O L E N K O

M A RC H 2 0 1 6 3 1

THE
PA R T Y
> easter
sunday
These artichokes
take a little
effort. Learn
how to trim
them in Prep
School, page 111.

THE PLAN
I N O R D E R TO P U L L O F F T H I S
A M B I T I O U S M E N U,
Y O U H AV E T O S T R AT E G I Z E

UP TO THREE
DAYS AHEAD
Make the chocolate
semifreddo
and freeze. Cook
the cannellini
beans; let cool
in liquid, then
cover and chill.
1 DAY AHEAD
Stuff and tie
the lamb breast.
Braise artichokes;
let cool and chill.
Prepare all the
raw vegetables;
store in
resealable plastic
bags and chill.

Braised Artichokes with

Tomatoes and Mint
8 SERVINGS Pick artichokes with tightly
packed, squeaky-firm green leaves
and a fresh-looking cut on the stem end.
1 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes,
preferably Italian San Marzano,
drained
1 cups dry white wine
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
1 cup olive oil, divided
12 salt-packed anchovy fillets,
rinsed, patted dry
8 garlic cloves
1 cup (lightly packed) mint leaves
6 medium artichokes
2 lemons, halved
3 2 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

Place tomatoes in a large Dutch oven

or other heavy pot, crushing with your
hands; add wine, red pepper flakes, 2 tsp.
salt, cup oil, and 2 cups water; set aside.
Pulse anchovies and garlic in a food
processor until finely chopped. Add mint
and pulse until coarsely chopped. With
the motor running, stream in remaining
cup oil; process until a coarse paste
forms. Set pesto aside.
Remove several layers of dark-green
outer leaves from artichokes (keep going
until you get to the tender light-green
leaves). Using a serrated knife, cut of top
1" of artichokes and trim stem ends. Rub
cut ends with lemon halves to prevent
browning. Working with 1 artichoke at
a time, use a paring knife or vegetable
peeler to remove tough outer green layer

THE MORNING OF
Braise the lamb
breast and make
the potatoes.
JUST BEFORE
GUESTS ARRIVE
Whip the
cream for the
semifreddo,
saut spinach
with beans,
muddle the
cocktail base,
and put out the
raw vegetable
platter. Reheat
lamb, potatoes,
and artichokes.
Claire Saffitz

from base and stem to reveal pale-green

underneath; rub all over with lemon.
Halve through stem and rub cut sides with
more lemon. Use a spoon to scoop out
choke, then pull out spiky inner leaves;
rub insides with lemon. Rub reserved
pesto all over artichoke halves and place
artichokes in a single layer inside reserved
pot, submerging in tomato mixture.
Bring to a simmer over medium-low
and cook, turning artichokes
occasionally, until hearts are fork-tender,
5565 minutes. Transfer artichokes to
a platter and tent with foil to keep warm.
Increase heat to medium, bring
sauce to a boil, and cook until slightly
thickened, 1015 minutes. Taste and
season with more salt if needed. Spoon
over artichokes.

THE
PA R T Y
> easter
sunday

THE DRINK
S PA R K L I N G L E M O N C O C K TA I L
> Muddle 2 thinly sliced Meyer or regular
lemons, 8 sugar cubes, and 1 tsp.
Angostura bitters in a large measuring
glass until lemons are softened and sugar
is crushed. Divide among 8 wine glasses;
slowly pour in chilled dry Prosecco
or other sparkling wine to fill glasses.

Cannellini Beans with Spinach

8 SERVINGS If there is a lot of liquid
in the pan when the spinach is done,
drain it before adding the beans.
1 cups dried cannellini (white kidney)
beans, soaked overnight, drained
1 head of garlic, halved crosswise;
plus 2 garlic cloves, crushed
3 sage leaves
6 Tbsp. olive oil, divided, plus more
for serving
Kosher salt
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
2 bunches mature spinach, trimmed
1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Bring beans, head of garlic, sage, 3 Tbsp.
oil, and 6 cups water to a boil in a large
saucepan over medium heat. Reduce
heat, add several generous pinches of
salt and simmer gently until beans are

ADD SOME
S PA R K L E
These wines
are affordable
enough to use
in this drink
and delicious
on their own:

creamy all the way through but skins are

still intact, 3545 minutes. Let cool.
Heat 3 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over
medium. Cook crushed garlic and red
pepper flakes, stirring, just until garlic
is golden, about 1 minute. Working
in batches, add spinach, letting it wilt
slightly before adding more, and cook,
tossing often, until leaves are just wilted,
about 5 minutes; season with salt.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer beans
to skillet with spinach and cook, tossing
gently, until beans are warmed through.
Add lemon zest, lemon juice, and cup
bean cooking liquid and toss, adding
more cooking liquid if needed, until
coated (mixture should be saucy but
not submerged in liquid; dont cook too
long or beans will get mushy). Taste and
season with salt. Serve drizzled with oil.
DO AHEAD: Beans can be cooked
3 days ahead. Keep in cooking liquid;
cover and chill.

Humble
be ans and
potatoes
become star
side dishes.

1 Giol Prosecco Sur Lie, $15

This Prosecco has just enough
complexity for a simple sparkler.
2 Bisson Glera Vino Frizzante, $20
Super dry and citrusy.
3 Primaterra Prosecco Frizzante, $12
At this price, spritzes for everyone!

Cacio e Pepe Potatoes

8 SERVINGS The classic Pecorino
and black pepper combination
is delicious on way more than pasta.
Try it on veg and rice, too.
3 lb. new potatoes or baby
Yukon Gold potatoes
Kosher salt
cup olive oil
4 oz. Pecorino, finely grated,
divided
2 Tbsp. coarsely ground black
pepper, divided
Cook potatoes in a large pot of boiling
salted water until tender, 1520 minutes.
Drain potatoes and transfer back to
pot. Add oil, 1 cup Pecorino, and 1 Tbsp.
pepper and toss until cheese is melted
and potatoes are coated; season with salt.
Transfer potatoes to a platter; top with
remaining Pecorino and 1 Tbsp. pepper.

B U Y E RS
GUIDE:
LAMB BREAST

FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINKSI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.
FOR MORE DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

Stuffed Lamb Breast with

Lemon, Ricotta, and Oregano
8 SERVINGS Straining the ricotta
will tighten the filling, making it easier
to roll. Let it hang out in a sieve while
youre measuring everything else out.
L A M B A N D ST U F F I N G

2
2
1
2

4
1
6
6

tsp. dried oregano

tsp. fennel seeds
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
boneless lamb breasts
(11 lb. each), fat trimmed
Kosher salt
garlic cloves, finely grated
large egg yolk
oz. Pecorino or Parmesan,
finely grated
oz. ricotta, drained
cup pitted oil-cured olives,
coarsely chopped
cup coarsely chopped parsley
Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
ASS E M B LY

3 Tbsp. olive oil

Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1 large onion, chopped
1 large carrot, peeled, chopped
2 shallots, chopped

> Lamb breast is

a cut from between
the shoulder and
belly that has a
good amount of
tasty intramuscular
fat, making it a
perfect candidate

4
1
1
4

garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

cup dry white wine
lemon, quartered
sprigs parsley, plus cup leaves
with tender stems
2 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
1 tsp. black peppercorns

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A spice mill or

a mortar and pestle

L A M B A N D ST U F F I N G Finely grind
oregano, fennel, and red pepper flakes
in spice mill or with mortar and pestle.
Place lamb breasts on a work surface, fat
side down, and season with salt. Sprinkle
spice mixture over top, then rub garlic
into meat, working over entire surface.
Mix egg yolk, Pecorino, ricotta, olives,
parsley, and lemon juice in a small bowl
to combine and spread evenly over both
lamb breasts. Working with 1 breast at
a time and starting from a short end, roll
up so lamb is resting seam side down.
Starting at the center, tie each roll with
kitchen twine at even intervals.
DO AHEAD: Lamb can be stufed 1 day
ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to room
temperature before cooking.

for braising. It
is not, however,
something you
can expect to find
shrink-wrapped at
the grocery store.
Order it in advance
from your butcher,

and specify that

youd like the rib
bones removed.
If you cant find
lamb breast, use
a single butterflied
boneless lamb
shoulder instead.

ASS EM BLY Preheat oven to 300. Heat

oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy

pot over medium-high. Season lamb
all over with salt and pepper and cook,
turning occasionally, until browned on all
sides, 1215 minutes. Transfer to a plate.
Add onion, carrot, shallots, and garlic
to same pot; season with salt and
pepper. Cook, stirring often, until
vegetables are browned around edges,
810 minutes. Add wine, scraping
up browned bits. Bring to a boil and
cook until liquid is almost completely
evaporated, about 4 minutes. Add
lemon, parsley sprigs, thyme sprigs, bay
leaves, peppercorns, and 4 cups cold
water. Add lamb back to pot and bring
to a simmer; cover and transfer to
oven. Cook, turning once, until lamb
is tender but not quite falling apart,
22 hours. Transfer lamb to a plate
and tent with foil to keep warm.
Bring braising liquid to a boil over
medium-high heat and cook until
reduced by half, 1520 minutes. Taste
and season with more salt, if desired.
Remove kitchen twine from lamb and
slice " thick. Transfer to a platter and
strain braising liquid through a fine-mesh
sieve over lamb. Top with parsley leaves.
M A RC H 2 0 1 6 3 5

THE
PA R T Y
> easter
sunday

Dark Chocolate Semifreddo

8 SERVINGS The texture of this airy
semifreddo is somewhere between
frozen chocolate mousse and gelato.
In other words: Youre going to love it.
6 oz. bittersweet or semisweet
chocolate, chopped
2 tsp. vanilla extract
tsp. kosher salt, plus more
2 cups heavy cream, divided
3 large egg whites, room
temperature
cup sugar
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A candy

thermometer
Combine chocolate, vanilla, and tsp.
salt in a medium heatproof bowl.
Heat 1 cups cream in a small
saucepan over medium until barely
simmering. Pour hot cream over
chocolate mixture and let sit until
chocolate is melted, about 5 minutes.
Whisk chocolate mixture until
combined and smooth. Chill, stirring
occasionally, until cold, about 1 hour.
3 6 M A RC H 20 1 6

GET THE
VIBE:
MODERN
E AST E R

> Goldin moderation

adds elegance. We love
this brushed-gold cutlery
($138 for five-piece set;
michelevarian.com)
and Tom Dixon teapot
($200; tomdixon.net).

Beat egg whites and a pinch of salt

on high speed in the bowl of a stand
mixer fitted with whisk attachment until
soft peaks form.
Meanwhile, cook sugar and cup
water in a small saucepan over
medium-low heat, stirring, until sugar is
dissolved. Clip thermometer to the side
of saucepan; increase heat to medium.
Bring to a boil without stirring and
cook until thermometer registers 250.
Working quickly and with motor
running, pour syrup into egg whites in a
steady stream, avoiding whisk so syrup
doesnt splatter. Beat until glossy, stif
peaks form (be careful not to overbeat).
Using an electric mixer, beat chilled
chocolate mixture until soft peaks
form. Gently fold in meringue, leaving
a few streaks. Scrape into a large
loaf pan and cover. Freeze until solid,
at least 3 hours and up to 3 days.
Just before serving, let semifreddo
sit at room temperature 15 minutes.
Beat remaining 1 cup cream in a small
bowl until soft peaks form. Serve
scoops of semifreddo in small bowls
with whipped cream.

k
fast, easy,
fresh
When theres not a glimmer
of spring produce, make
the best of what youve got
by which we mean a crunchy
slaw, citrusy cake, and more

Twice Is
Nicer

by C l a i re S a f f i t z

The trick to
crispy, creamy,
never cloying sweet
potatoes? Roast,
tear, and roast
again. To serve
4, poke holes all
over 3 medium
sweet potatoes;
wrap each in foil.
Roast on a foil-lined
rimmed baking
sheet in a 350
oven until tender,
6070 minutes.
Unwrap and let cool
slightly. Increase
oven temperature
to 450. Combine
1 thinly sliced
Fresno chile, cup
honey, and 4 Tbsp.
unsalted butter
in a small saucepan;
season with salt.
Bring to a simmer
over low heat,
stirring to combine.
Remove from heat
and stir in 2 Tbsp.
apple cider vinegar.
Smash potatoes
with your palm, then
tear into irregular
bite-size pieces.
Toss in a large bowl
with half of hot
honey, leaving chile
behind; season with
salt. Arrange pieces,
skin side down, on
an unlined rimmed
baking sheet and
roast until browned
and crisp around
edges, 2025
minutes. Drizzle
with remaining hot
honey with chile.
TWICEROASTED
SWEET
POTATOES
WITH HOT
HONEY

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU

M A RC H 2 0 1 6 3 9

FA S T, E A S Y,
FRESH

Hit This Sauce

Why make your own hoisin?
Because the addictively sweet-salty
condiment will wake up just about
everything youre making this week

Hoisin-Glazed Pork Chops

ACTIVE 40 MIN - TOTAL 1 HR 20 MIN
(INCLUDES MARINATING TIME)
4 SERVINGS
2
3

3
2
2
2

Tbsp. vegetable oil

garlic cloves, finely chopped
cup soy sauce
Tbsp. honey
Tbsp. distilled white vinegar
Tbsp. tahini
tsp. Sriracha
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
2 1"-thick bone-in pork rib chops
(about 1 lb. each), patted dry

M O R E WAY S T O
USEHOISIN
This homemade
hoisin comes
together with just
a few pantry
staples and tastes
surprisingly like the

stuff you get at a

Chinese restaurant,
onlydare we
say?better.
Youll want to use it
again and again, so
here are some ways
to do just that:

Heat oil in a medium saucepan over

medium. Cook garlic, stirring often,
until golden brown, about 2 minutes.
Add soy sauce, honey, vinegar, tahini,
and Sriracha and whisk until smooth.
Cook, whisking occasionally, until
mixture is thick and smooth, about
5 minutes. Season hoisin sauce with
salt and pepper; let cool.
Season pork chops all over with salt
and pepper. Place in a large resealable
plastic bag and add half of hoisin sauce
(reserve remaining sauce). Seal bag,
pressing out air, and turn to coat pork.
Chill at least 30 minutes. Set remaining
sauce aside.
Preheat a large skillet, preferably cast
iron, or grill pan over medium. Remove
pork from bag, shaking of excess
marinade. Cook pork chops until bottom
side is golden brown, about 1 minute.
Turn and cook on other side about

Spoon over
pork chops.

Dress up a
bowl of rice.

1 Toss into a pork

and mushroom stirfry and spread on
flour tortillas for
easy moo-shu pork.

3 Drizzle over
steamed vegetables
like bok choy,
asparagus, or
winter squash.

2 Serve alongside
roast chicken.

4 Stir into grains

or a rice bowl.

1 minute, then turn again. Continue

to cook, turning about every minute,
until chops are deep golden brown and
charred in spots and an instant-read
thermometer inserted into the thickest
part registers 135, 1518 minutes
(cooking time will depend on thickness
of chops). Transfer to a cutting board
and let rest at least 10 minutes (pork
will come to 145 as it sits). Serve with
reserved hoisin sauce spooned over.
DO AHEAD: Hoisin sauce can be made
4 days ahead; cover and chill. Thin with
water if needed before using. Pork can
be marinated 1 day ahead; keep chilled.

Turn simple
ste amed
veg into a
fun side.

DONT
U N D E R E S T I M AT E
D A I KO N
> Breakfast radishes
get all the
attention. What
about the hearty
daikon? We love

its peppery-butnot-too-peppery
flavor and snappybut-not-too-snappy
textureplus its
easier to shave
into salads than
its smaller cousins.

Slaw Power
Hope you like your salads bracing
because we piled all the crunchy
veg we could find into this bright,
fresh side dish

Crunchy Winter Slaw with Asian

Pear and Manchego
ACTIVE 25 MIN - TOTAL 25 MIN
4 SERVINGS
cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
1 tsp. plus cup olive oil
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
2 tsp. pure maple syrup
4 cups very thinly sliced green
cabbage and/or fennel
1 cups matchsticks Asian pear
(from about large)
1 cups matchsticks peeled celery
root (from about small) or celery
1 cups matchsticks peeled daikon
(from about medium)
3 oz. Manchego cheese,
shaved, divided
Preheat oven to 350. Toss pumpkin
seeds and 1 tsp. oil on a rimmed baking
sheet; season with salt and pepper.
Bake until golden brown and pufed,
about 5 minutes; let cool. Finely chop
2 Tbsp. pumpkin seeds.
Whisk chopped pumpkin seeds,
lemon juice, mustard, maple syrup, and
remaining cup oil in a medium bowl;
season dressing with salt and pepper.
Combine cabbage and/or fennel, Asian
pear, celery root, daikon, most of the
Manchego, and remaining pumpkin seeds
in a large bowl. Drizzle dressing over top
and toss to combine; season with salt and
pepper. Top with remaining Manchego.

No Asian
pe ar ? Sub
in a green
apple.

M A RC H 2 0 1 6 41

Cake for Breakfast?

It has grapefruit and yogurt, so
its practically a parfait! We wont
judge if you eat this in the a.m.

GrapefruitPoppy Seed Loaf Cake

with Yogurt Glaze
ACTIVE 30 MIN - TOTAL 2 HR 30 MIN
(INCLUDES COOLING AND SETTING TIMES)
MAKES ONE 8X4" LOAF

1
2

1
1
2

Nonstick vegetable oil spray

cups all-purpose flour
tsp. baking powder
tsp. kosher salt, plus more
Tbsp. finely grated grapefruit zest
cup granulated sugar
large eggs, room temperature
cup vegetable oil
tsp. vanilla extract
cup plus 1 Tbsp. plain Greek yogurt

4 2 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

OIL > BUTTER

Waiting around
for cold, hard
butter to soften
is antithetical to
spur-of-themoment baking.
The best solution

8 Tbsp. fresh grapefruit juice,

divided
1 Tbsp. poppy seeds, plus more
for sprinkling
cup powdered sugar
Preheat oven to 350. Line an 8x4" loaf
pan, preferably metal, with parchment
paper, leaving overhang on the long
sides, and lightly coat with nonstick
spray. Whisk flour, baking powder, and
tsp. salt in a medium bowl.
Using your fingers, work grapefruit
zest into granulated sugar in a large bowl
until sugar starts to clump and mixture
is very fragrant, about 1 minute. Add
eggs, oil, and vanilla and beat with an
electric mixer on high speed until light
and thick, about 4 minutes. Reduce
speed to low and mix in half of dry
ingredients, then mix in cup yogurt.
Mix in remaining dry ingredients

i s a ve g e t a b l e
o il b a sed b a tter
instead. Not only
do you always have
oil around, but it
makes baked goods
(ahem, like this loaf
cake) super moist.

followed by 5 Tbsp. grapefruit juice and

1 Tbsp. poppy seeds. Scrape batter into
prepared pan and smooth top.
Bake cake until top is golden brown
and a tester inserted into the center
comes out clean, 5060 minutes.
Transfer pan to a wire rack. Poke holes
in top of cake and brush remaining
3 Tbsp. grapefruit juice over top. Let sit
15 minutes, then run a knife around sides
to loosen and use parchment paper to
lift cake out of pan and onto rack. Remove
parchment and let cool completely.
Whisk powdered sugar, remaining
1 Tbsp. yogurt, 1 tsp. water, and a pinch
of salt in a medium bowl until smooth
and drizzle over cake. Sprinkle with
poppy seeds and let sit until glaze is set,
about 30 minutes.
DO AHEAD: Loaf can be baked and
glazed 3 days ahead. Store airtight at
room temperature.

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY ELIZABETH JAIME. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.

FA S T, E A S Y,
FRESH

THE NEW
H E A LT H Y

big bowl of
goodness
When Cold-Eeze cant cut it,
the people of Providence, RI,
turn to an unprovenbut
inarguably deliciouscure:
a memorable Cambodian soup
by B el l e C u s h in g

This shrimpand-noodle
number is
the real soup
for the soul.

Everyone in Providence, Rhode Island, knows the

powers of medicine soup. The brothy noodles at Angkor
Restaurant are powered by the spices typical of Cambodian
cuisinethe kind that seem to actually give off warmth.
The flavor is an exercise in extremes: meaty and funky,
sweet and sour, fiery to the point of sinus relief.
Three years ago, I moved from Providence to New York
City, where the winters are ostensibly milder but somehow
harder to bear. I might blame the snow that turns
immediately to sludge, but the real problem is that I cant
just plod down the street to Angkor and pay $5 to get set
straight by a bowl of soup. Ive been looking for something
equivalent among the restorative broths of the world, from
4 4 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

bone to miso to a colleagues recipe for spicy kimchi stew.

Nothing comes close. I even called the restaurant, invoking
the powers of this magazine to try to coax the method
out of them, except that no, the recipe was secret, and they
couldnt possibly give it out. Thanks for calling, though.
So I hopped a train to Providence. Only this time, I took
a recipe developer with me. When our soup arrived, we
didnt so much eat as study it. We took detailed notes, and
then she returned to our test kitchen and tried to re-create
it, from the spice-fueled broth to the ramen noodles to the
cascade of cilantro. Finally, we hit upon something that
no one could stop slurping. This recipe isnt exactly Angkors
secret soup. But its the best medicine I can hope to find.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU

THE NEW
H E A LT H Y
> medicine
soup

It may not be FDA-approved,

but Im convinced a few spoonfuls of
this spicy broth can cure anything.
Belle Cushing

4 SERVINGS A highly seasoned broth

and robust cashew pure add layered
flavor to this warming soup.
BROTH

6
6
4
3
2
2
1
3
5
2

1
12
1

whole cloves
green cardamom pods
star anise pods
dried chiles de rbol
3" cinnamon sticks
tsp. black peppercorns
bunch cilantro
medium shallots, halved
through root ends
garlic cloves, smashed
6" pieces lemongrass, tough
outer layer removed,
lightly smashed
4" piece ginger, peeled,
sliced " thick
cups low-sodium chicken broth
Tbsp. fish sauce
Kosher salt; freshly ground pepper
PASTE

1
1
1
1
1
1
2

cup cashews
medium shallot, chopped
Fresno chile, chopped
3" piece lemongrass, tough outer
layer removed, finely chopped
1" piece ginger, peeled,
finely chopped
Tbsp. dark brown sugar
Tbsp. shrimp paste with bean oil
Tbsp. vegetable oil
ASSE M B LY

4
1
8
4

12-oz. packages ramen noodles

lb. shrimp, peeled and deveined
oz. mung bean sprouts
scallions, thinly sliced
on a diagonal
Fresh tender herbs (such as
Thai basil, cilantro, and/or mint)
Freshly ground black pepper
Chili oil and lime wedges
(for serving)

4 6 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

BROTH Toast cloves, cardamom,

star anise, chiles, cinnamon, and

peppercorns in a large pot over
medium heat, tossing often, until
fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add
cilantro, shallots, garlic, lemongrass,
ginger, broth, and fish sauce and
bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer
until flavors meld, 11 hours.
Strain into a large bowl, pressing on
solids. Return broth to pot; season
with salt and pepper.
PASTE Pulse cashews in a food

processor until very finely ground.

Add shallot, chile, lemongrass,
ginger, brown sugar, and shrimp
paste; process until smooth. Heat oil
in a small skillet over medium and
cook paste, stirring, until beginning
to brown, about 2 minutes.
ASSE MBLY Cook noodles according

to package directions. Drain; rinse

under cold water. Bring broth to a
simmer, add shrimp, and cook until
cooked through, about 2 minutes.
Divide noodles among bowls. Add 2
Tbsp. paste to each and ladle broth
over; stir to incorporate paste. Top
with shrimp, sprouts, scallions, and
herbs; season with pepper. Serve with
chili oil and lime wedges alongside.

You know that

guy at the party
whos always
talking about
his homemade
chili oil? That
could be you.
Go to bonappetit
.com/chilioil.

RECIPE BY LILY FREEDMAN. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY ELIZABETH JAIME. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

Aromatic Shrimp
and Noodle Medicine Soup

> C I T Y G U I D E / va n c o u ve r

navigator

FOR THE
ADDRESSES
OF THE
S P OTS I N T H I S
S T O R Y, S E E
SOURCEBOOK
O N PA G E 1 1 2 .

Alexandra
Glass of
The Birds
& the Beets
starts the
day right.

north by northwest
Seattles cool. Portlands got indie cred. But right
now, Vancouver tops our best-of-the-West list
Nothing represents the fantasies
of food-obsessed Americans quite like
the Pacific Northwest. Its an unspoiled
wonderland where the fish is always fresh, the
produce pedigreed, and the people (somewhat
eerily) enthusiastic. But our fascination with
Portland and Seattle obscures a thrilling truth:
The grass is even greener (and fresher, and
tastier, and cheaper) on the other side of the

49th parallel. Vancouver is the real deal,

a temperate paradise with an exploding food
scene that takes advantage of pristine Pacific
seafood and interior British Columbias bounty,
diverse immigrant traditions, and of-themoment culinary trends alike. By Sea, Land,
and Air We Prosper reads the citys motto.
And after a few days eating our way across the
city, were inclined to agree. Amiel Stanek

C ontinued on page 54
5 0 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KAMIL BIALOUS

N AV I G AT O R
> va n c o u ve r

DO

Rent a bike and take a spin around picturesque Stanley Park. Itll be a bit
of a workoutthat is, if you can resist the urge to get of your bike every
few feet to snap photos of the glimmering bay and soaring mountains.

Clockwise from above: The fizzy house-bottled Spritz at

Ask for Luigi; an employee at The Birds & the Beets tends to the
cafs display of flowers for sale; meatballs at Ask for Luigi.

Eastern
Promises

Downtown Vancouvers fine

and good, but its Gastown,
the buzzy neighborhood
east of the citys center, where youll witness
a restaurant renaissance in full swing.
These are the must-visits.

THE BIRDS &

THE BEETS Housemade kombucha
on tap. House-made
filmjlk yogurt on
top of house-made
whole grain granola.
House-made local
fruit soda chaser to
go alongside a locally
roasted Bows &
Arrows espresso. This
sunny tropical-plantfilled counter-service
caf is the perfect

place to linger while

planning a day of
serious eating. (Did
we mention that they
sell fresh flowers,
too? How freaking
cute is that?)

LABAT TOIR
A seat at the spotlit
bar is the move at
this swanky Frenchinflected spot.
Snag one of their
next-level cocktails
(the herbaceous

Avocado Gimlet is 100

times better than it
sounds), slurp a few
tender baked Pacific
oysters bathed in
trufled garlic butter,
and puzzle over
how they keep the
glassware straight on
the slanted shelves
behind the bar.

ASK FOR LUIGI

The citys most talked
about new-school/
old-school Italian
joint deserves the
hype, with bottled
Aperol spritzes,
juicy meatballs, and
hauntingly satisfying
house-made pasta
(order any noodle
made with squid ink).
Plus theres that

golden-hour light.
Whats not to like?
Pro tip: Arrive at least
a half hour before
this no-reservations
restaurant opens
to snag a table.
Theres always a line.

ALIBI ROOM
This decade-old
tavern is the place to
be for specialty suds
in Vancouver. The
super-knowledgeable
staf is more than
happy to guide you
through the 50
local and imported
drafts, but any of
the inventive oddball
brews from the
hometown heroes at
Brassneck Brewery
are a must-order.

TA S T E
THE TERROIR

Want to know what

BC farm-to-table
is all about? Get thee
to The Farmers
Apprentice. Highly
Instagrammable
tasting menus
(available in both
Herbivore and
Omnivore formats)
showcase the best
that the far PacNW
has to offer, from
stunning shellfish
to earthy mushrooms,
served to the tune of
early Stones (on vinyl,
duh). For a bit more
casual vibe, drop
by the restaurants
next-door natural
wine and cocktail bar,
Grapes & Soda, for
small plates like
seared albacore tuna.

3
SEAFOOD
S A N S G U I LT

Restaurants all
over the city proudly
post the Vancouver
Aquariums Ocean
Wise logo on menus
to denote sustainable
(and delicious)
seafood options.
Here are a few of
our favorites.

54 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

LINGCOD

SABLEFISH

OY S T E R S

DUNGENESS CRAB

Crispy eight-spice lingcod

served in a caramelized
tamarind and palm-sugar
sauce at Maenam.

Delicate steamed sablefish

fillet with mushrooms
and BBQ duck dashi at
The Farmers Apprentice.

Cold briny oysters on

the half shell from all over
British Columbia at
stalwart Blue Water Cafe.

Sweet, meaty, and

refreshingly unpretentious
steamed-to-order crab
at Rodneys Oyster House.

S TAY

Insane water and mountain views, free (BMW!) bike use, and
deep soaking tubs make the Fairmont Pacific Rimopened
in time for the 2010 Winter Olympicsworth the splurge.

5
ISLAND LIFE

Tofu pudding with sweet

black rice and other
comforts at Excellent
Tofu and Snacks.

Richmond
Riches

Richmond, a 20-minute drive

from downtown, is home to
the most authentic Chinese
food this side of the Pacific. With immigrants
from Asia making up close to 60 percent
of the population, its a paradise of dim
sum halls and wild shopping malls hawking
everything from pastry to Peking duck.
Check out these spots.
F I S H E R M A NS
T E R R AC E

Enter the unassuming

Aberdeen Centre
shopping mall and
youre two escalators
away from the dim
sum that dreams
are made of. The
standards are all
flawlessly executed,
but the Shredded
Chicken Cold
Platea tumble of
succulent meat, crisp
Chinese celery, fried
noodles, and tangy
vinaigrettesealed
the deal for us.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY CLAIRE MCCRACKEN

D I N E ST Y
DUMPLING HOUSE

If you have room

postdim sum (or
even if you dont),
venture one level
down to Dinesty.
The decor may leave
something to be
desired, but eight
kinds of juicy soup
dumplingsXO sauce
and pork!more
than make up for it.

O T R AY N O O D L E

Cross the street to

President Plaza
and go up one flight
to the food court for
O Trays tian jin
jianbing. The savory
mung bean crepe
is topped with egg,
scallions, soy paste,
and flaky fried
pastry before being
folded into a tidy
packetprobably
the tastiest $4.75
youll ever spend.

If Granville
Islandthe
shopping district
a short walk from
downtown
Vancouverseems
like a tourist trap,
youre not doing
it right. Its Railspur
District is where
youre going to find
locally brewed
sake from Artisan
SakeMaker,
flights of distilledon-site spirits at
Liberty Distillery,
and a host of
boutiques hawking
handicrafts. And
dont leave
without slurping
a half-dozen
Royal Miyagis at
unassuming Tonys
Fish & Oyster
Cafeas cold and
fresh as youll find
anywhere in town.

B E A U C O U P B A K E R Y & C A F may be
home to Vancouvers best croissant
(we dont disagree), but its the crispy cardamom
kouign-amann, peanut-butter sandwich cookies,
and expertly pulled shots of 49th Parallel Cofee
Roasters espresso that could keep us here all day.

Y E S , Y O U L L H AV E F I S H A N D C H I P S

It is British Columbia after all. While places like

Go Fish are superb for their on-the-water
vibes, our pick is the landlocked Fish Counter.
Opened by one of the founders of the Ocean
Wise program, all the fish is responsibly
sourced, impeccably fresh, and delicately fried.

L I D O R E STAU R A N T

If you order one

thing from this
bustling Hong Kong
style caf, make it a
pineapple bunthe
fruitless Cantonese
tea cake with an
irresistible sandy
topping of sugar,
egg, flour, and lard.
Order it with butter
(just do it) and
theyll split the warm
bun and stick a huge
salty slab in there.
E XC E L L E N T TO F U
A N D S N AC KS

Warm, soothing
homemade soy milk
is the only thing
you need after a
marathon of eating.
(Okay, order a silky
tofu pudding, too.)

The handwritten
menu at Dock Lunch.

8
H O M E AWAY
FROM HOME

A midday meal
at American-born
Elizabeth Bryans
Dock Lunch, the
impossibly homey
living room-

Jackie Kai
Ellis,
Beaucoup
Bakerys
owner and
pastry chef.

turned-caf in
the Mount Pleasant
neighborhood,
may quietly be the
toughest get in the
city. The handful
of satisfying soulful
plates on ofer each
daythink crunchy,
juicy fried chicken,
ultraflaky biscuits,
and strawberry
cobbleroften sell
out faster than
she can post them
to her Instagram.

THE CULTURE ISSUE

...

...

...

...

...

...

...

...

...

...

...

...

...

...

...

...

ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN

...

If youre
like us, you take
pictures of everything
you eat. Which is why
we shot all of the original
photography on the
following pages
with an iPhone.
Seriously.

59

A RECENT
HISTORY
OF THE FRIED
CHICKEN
SANDWICH
(FCS)

WHICH
CAME FIRST?

Atlanta restaurateur
S. Truett Cathy puts
breaded chicken breasts
on hamburger buns
andat least according
to Chick-fil-A legend
invents the modern
FCS.

1960s

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.
RING (THUMB) BY VRAI & ORO. NAIL POLISH BY DOLCE & GABBANA, AQUA 720.
FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

Dredge it
rig h t! Se e
Prep School,
p ag e 1 07.

N O.

McDonalds
introduces the
McChicken sandwich
andit fails miserably.
Eight years later, it
will be resurrected.

1980

Sandwich
of the Year
2005

Blue-wigged
Aussie Alison
Barakat creates an
FCS topped with
vinegary coleslaw for
Bakesale Betty in
Oakland, CA.

The Commodore
introduces Brooklyn
to the Hot Breast,
its addictively spicy
sandwich take on
Nashvilles venerable
hot chicken.

APRIL 2010

B Y M I C H A E L Y. P A R K
RECIPE BY CL AIRE SAFFITZ

Chefs across the

country are racing to see
who will rule the crunchy,
ju icy, g o l d en ag e of t h e
f r i e d c h i c ke n s a n d w i c h .
Our entry into the
co m p et it io n : t h e u l t imat e
m ake-at -h o me ver s io n

1
1

1
2

cups all-purpose flour

cup cornstarch
Tbsp. garlic powder
Tbsp. onion powder

ASS EMB LY

garlic clove, finely grated

Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
cup mayonnaise
Tbsp. finely chopped chives
tsp. celery seeds
tsp. freshly ground black pepper
Kosher salt

S EASO NE D MAYO N N AIS E

1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal

or 2 tsp. Morton kosher salt
1 tsp. light brown sugar
1 tsp. baking powder
4 skin-on or skinless,
boneless chicken thighs

C H ICK EN

T hi s s an dw ic h is
engineered for maximum
i mpa ct . Ea ch e le me nt
i s awe s o m e , b u t i t s t h e
way they come together
that puts it over the top.
M mmm m, ye a h.

MAKES 4

BAs Best Fried

Chicken Sandwich

ASSEMBLY Whisk flour, cornstarch, garlic

powder, onion powder, paprika, cayenne,

and lemon juice in a medium bowl; let sit

10 minutes. Mix in mayonnaise, chives,
celery seeds, and pepper; season with salt.

S EAS O NE D M AYONNAIS E Combine garlic

powder in a small bowl. Season chicken

all over with salt mixture (you wont need
all of it). Chill uncovered on a wire rack
set inside a rimmed baking sheet, at least
2 hours and up to 1 day.

C H ICK E N Mix salt, sugar, and baking

thermometer

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A deep-fry

Tbsp. paprika
tsp. cayenne pepper
Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more
large egg, beaten to blend
cup buttermilk
Tbsp. bourbon (optional)
Tbsp. hot sauce (such as Franks);
plus more for serving (optional)
Peanut or vegetable oil
(for frying; about 8 cups)
4 soft seeded hamburger buns
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
Bread-and-butter pickles (for
serving), plus 1 Tbsp. brine
4 cups thinly sliced iceberg lettuce
Freshly ground black pepper

1
2
2
1
1
2
3
and 2 Tbsp. salt in a medium bowl.
Whisk egg, buttermilk, bourbon (if using),
and 3 Tbsp. hot sauce in another medium
bowl. Working with 1 piece at a time,
dredge chicken in flour mixture, turning to
coat and packing into crevices. Shake to
remove excess; return to rack. Pour 3 Tbsp.
buttermilk mixture into flour mixture and
work in with your fingers. Dip chicken into
remaining buttermilk mixture, allow excess
to drip of, then pack moistened flour
mixture firmly onto chicken. Gently shake
of excess; return to rack. Chill at least
30 minutes and up to 12 hours.
Pour oil into a large heavy pot fitted with
thermometer to come halfway up sides.
Heat over medium-high until thermometer
registers 350. Working in 2 batches, fry
chicken, turning often and adjusting heat
to maintain temperature, until deep golden
brown, 58 minutes per batch. Transfer to
a wire rack set over paper towels to drain.
Heat a dry large skillet, preferably cast
iron, over medium. Brush cut sides of buns
with butter and, working in batches, cook,
cut side down, until deep golden brown,
about 2 minutes per batch.
Mix 1 Tbsp. pickle brine into 2 Tbsp.
seasoned mayonnaise in a medium bowl.
Add lettuce, season with salt and pepper,
and toss to coat. Spread some seasoned
mayonnaise over cut sides of buns. Build
sandwiches with pickles, fried chicken,
slaw, and more hot sauce, if desired.

2011

Pandemonium
breaks out over
Shake Shacks
limited-edition FCS.
Six months later,
it debuts on menus
nationwide.

J U LY 7, 2 0 1 5

David Chang
opens Fuku in his
original Momofuku
Noodle Bar location as
the first in a planned
FCS empire.

J U N E 1 0, 2 0 1 5

Leghornan
aspiring FCS chain
opens its first location
in Chicago, promising
to donate 2% of its
revenue to gay rights
organizations.

2014

Jon Shook and

Vinny Dotolos L.A.
seafood spot Son of
a Gun garners a cult
following for its FCS,
which lands on the
cover of BA two
years later.

N O.

2
Soggy Salad
Is a Shameful
Thing

Quaneesha
Allen prepping
cauliflower
in an NYC
outpost.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN. FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

AS HIP , wholesome, fast-casual

canteens like Sweetgreen
the choose-your-own-adventure
salad spot with 40 locations
take over city blocks nationwide,
our midday meal options have
become healthier, tastier, and
more varied. But such freedom of
choice presents one issue: If, by
the companys calculations, you
have at least 284 million possible
permutations, how do you know
if youre, you know, being a good
chef? We asked Quaneesha Allen
and Alexis Patterson, two of
Sweetgreens pros, for tricks to
make your green lunch a whole
lot sweeter. AMIEL STANEK

SALAD
HACKS

62

The menus on the

wall and the lines
long, so brush off
the performance
anxiety and order
like an auctioneer:
kale-caesar-noonions-plus-chickenheavy-dressing.

When it comes to
the seven green
and grain bases that
Sweetgreen ofers,
dont be basicmix a
few for varied flavor
or texture, like, say,
peppery arugula and
nutty wild rice.

Dont. Forget.
The. Crunchies.
Toasted nuts, spicy
sunflower seeds,
and tortilla chips
come at the end,
and most folks
foolishly skip em
without noticing.

Soggy salad is
a shameful thing.
If youre not eating
your lunch right
away, either (a) start
with sturdy romaine
or kale, or (b) order
your dressing
on the side.

Sweetgreen sources
bread from local
bakeries for each
location. It also
stocks avocados.
So youre on your
way to an off-menu
avocado toast.
Mic, dropped.

Wana
Edibles
Jewels

PHOTOGRAPH BY BENJAMIN RASMUSSEN. FOOD STYLING BY ERIC LESKOVAR.

ILLUSTRATION BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.

NectarBee
Raspberry
Fruit Rings

In a legal state
and want to DIY?
Get our butter
recipefor baking
or drizzling over
popcorn at
bonappetit.com
/thghee

Dude, These
Gummi
Bears Taste
Amaaazing
LAUGH ALL YOU WANT, but for
a lot of people, buying pot-laced
edibles has become as pedestrian
as picking up a bottle of vino.
Marijuanawhile still a federally
controlled substance is
medically available in almost
half the country, sold for
recreational use in four states
(Alaska, Colorado, Oregon, and
Washington), and seven more
states are bringing the issue to
a vote this year. Some financial
analysts project annual revenues
to reach $35 billion by 2020
about $3 billion more than
Americans spend on coffee.
A chunk of that is due, of course,
to packaged pot treats; last year
there were 4.8 million purchases
in Colorado alone. Edibles are
portable, dont carry the risks
or smells associated with
smoking, and are regulated
and labeled so at least you know
exactly what youre ingesting.
If you stroll into any retail
dispensary, youll find gummies,
infused chocolates, herbed nuts,
wacky lemonade, and all manner
of bite-size cookies and crackers.
They look adorable! Some taste
pretty good! Here, a sampling of
the far-out candies sold in Denver.
CARLA LALLI MUSIC

# YO LO

Wana
Edibles Sour
Gummies

A NOTE FROM THE WOMEN OF

Careful with

N O.

You can get

real wacky
on edibles.

Ilana
Gl azer

As their Comedy
Cen tra l sh ow
begins it s third
season, belove d
Broad City st o n e r s
Il a n a a n d A b b i
skip the gummies
(bu t l eave ro om
f o r t h e m u n c h i e s)
INTERVIEW BY PETER MARTIN

64

BROAD CITY

Theres a whole new

world of edibles
[see previous page].
Are you into any
of the fancy ones?
ABBI JACOBSON:

I used to not be
into the fancy ones.
I used to eat goo
balls all the time.
Goo balls?
AJ: From when
I used to go to a lot of
jam-band concerts.

Its kind of like a ball

of cereal and some
sort of nut butter
and weed. Its like a
different kind of pot
cookie. Its so much
more of an intense
high, and I cant
do it with how busy
we are. Its more
like tripping to me.
ILANA GLAZER:

I agree. Its too

intense for me. My

roommate and I used

to make firecrackers
like we do on the
show: peanut butter
or Nutella with weed
smooshed into it,
between crackers
or graham crackers.
Its fully debilitating.
Too many question
marks, you know?
You dont know how
long its going to last,
how hard its going

to feel. It freaks me
out. You can get real
wacky on edibles.
Its easy to not
realize how much
youve eaten until
it kicks in, and then
youre in trouble.
IG: Im surprised
when people
who dont usually
smoke weed are
into edibles.
I cant believe that.

Those
Ab b i
Jacobson

PHOTOGRAPHS BY SUNNY SHOKRAE. MAKEUP BY KIM BOWER.

HAIR BY PETER BUTLER. WARDROBE STYLING BY RACHEL WIRKUS.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.

Cereal when
high is always a
great option.
I dont even have
cereal for that
reason.

Maybe because
it cuts out the
smoking part?
IG: Yeah, people think,
Well, I eat all the time,
so this is a comfortable
conduit for me to get
high. But [when they
try edibles for the
first time] theyre like,
Its too crazy, and
then they dont want
to get high again.
It makes me sad.

You consider this

sort of an outreach
to those people?
IG: That is how

I want to use
this platform.
What about the
best food for
the munchies?
IG: Depends where
youre going. Like,
if you want to King
Louis gorge yourself
and die, those coffee-

cake Entenmanns
doughnuts.
AJ: A box of them?
IG: A box of them.
Im talking ideal,
I live in heaven,
and my stomach
is bottomless.
You can get through
the whole box?
AJ: I would need
milk, I think.
IG: Thats more of
a dream. I usually

try to just have more

nutritious stuff in
my house for that.
Like, snacking on
kale when stoned?
IG: Yeah.
Honestly. Ill
prepare something
beforehand and
then get high and
then I have this
thing available for
me. Also, a warm
drink in the fall

and winter. Like tea.

Its just lovely.
Im impressed with
the forethought.
IG: I dont enjoy
cooking when Im
high. And I dont
want to be eating
garbage because
then Ill feel gross.
So, cooking while
youre high
you think thats
a bad idea?

AJ: Its like, just

give me the cereal.
Cereal when high
is always a great
option. I dont
even have cereal
for that reason.

In case you got

high and ate the
entire thing?
AJ: Yeah. I dont want
that around, for
me to get high and
get into. No way.

#WINNING

I S

66 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

T H E

N E W

Q U I N O A
Q U I N O A

GUTTER

re c ipes by C H R I S M O R O C C O - photographs by G E N T L & H Y E RS

N O.

Aromatic
Wilted
Greens with
Coconut Milk
P. 68

Vaguely
healthy and
totally delicious,
coconut is the
latest ingredient
we cant get
enough ofin any
of its countless
forms. Heres how
were eating it all
day, every day

WA I T, T H E R ES
A S H O RTAG E ?

Three years ago, the U.S.

reportedly experienced
a coconut water shortage,
and its fans freaked.
Did we really drink all
of it? NoTyphoon Haiyan
was partly to blame.
Today, production is
pretty stable and Western
demandup 28 percent
over the past several
yearsdoesnt pose a
real problem. Phew.

Coconut
Chicken
Curry with
Turmeric and
Lemongrass
P. 68

JULIA BAINBRIDGE

67

4 SERVINGS This isnt a super-saucy

curry; the aromatics will brown and
fry in the pan, yielding lots of yummy
crisp bits. Serve with steamed rice.

2
1
4
1
1
1
1
4

4
1
4
2
1
1

lemongrass stalks
large shallot, chopped
garlic cloves
2" piece ginger, peeled,
thinly sliced
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
tsp. ground turmeric
Tbsp. vegetable oil
chicken legs, drumsticks
and thighs separated
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
kafir lime leaves (optional)
3" cinnamon stick
cardamom pods, cracked
star anise pods
15-oz. can unsweetened
coconut milk
tsp. coconut sugar or
light brown sugar
cup unsweetened shredded
coconut
Chopped cilantro and chives
(for serving)

Remove tough outer layers from

lemongrass. Finely grate bottom third
of 1 stalk and set aside; discard the rest
of the stalk. Trim and discard top third
of remaining stalk, then bruise stalk by
giving it a few whacks against a cutting
board (this helps release the essential
oils). Tie it in a loose knot; set aside.
Pulse reserved grated lemongrass
with shallot, garlic, ginger, red pepper
flakes, turmeric, and 2 Tbsp. water in
a food processor, adding a splash or two
of water if needed, until a paste forms.
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium.
Season chicken with salt and pepper
and cook, skin side down, until skin is
lightly browned and crisp, 810 minutes.
Transfer to a plate.
Cook spice paste in same skillet,
stirring, until very fragrant, about
5 minutes (it will begin to darken slightly
as the water evaporates and the
paste begins to fry in the fat left behind).
Add kaffir lime leaves (if using),
cinnamon, cardamom, star anise,
coconut milk, coconut sugar, and
reserved knotted lemongrass to skillet.
Bring to a simmer, add chicken, and
cook, turning pieces occasionally and
scraping bottom of skillet often, until
68

chicken is falling-apart tender and

coconut milk has broken (the fat will
separate from the liquid and start to
brown the chicken and other aromatics),
about 1 hours.
Toast shredded coconut in a dry
small skillet over medium heat, tossing
occasionally, until golden brown,
about 5 minutes. Let cool.
Arrange chicken on a platter and
spoon any braising liquid over. Top with
cilantro, chives, and toasted coconut.

Aromatic Wilted Greens

with Coconut Milk
4 SERVINGS Finishing this dish with
coconut milk retains its sweet flavor.

2
4
2
1
1
1

1
1

Tbsp. virgin coconut oil

garlic cloves, lightly crushed
small shallots, chopped
red chile (such as Fresno),
thinly sliced
1" piece ginger, peeled, thinly
sliced into matchsticks
bunch scallions, thinly sliced,
divided
Kosher salt
small bunch kale, ribs and
stems removed, leaves torn
small bunch collard greens,
ribs and stems removed,
leaves sliced 1" thick
cup unsweetened coconut
milk, divided
Lime wedges (for serving)

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium.

Cook garlic, stirring, until golden brown,
about 3 minutes. Add shallots, chile,
ginger, and two-thirds of scallions.
Season with salt; cook, stirring often, until
softened, about 5 minutes. Add kale and
collard greens a handful at a time, letting
them wilt slightly before adding more.
Cook, tossing occasionally, until greens
are crisp-tender, 68 minutes. Add half
of coconut milk and toss to coat.
Transfer greens to a serving bowl and
top with remaining coconut milk and
scallions. Serve with lime wedges.

Coconut-Date Power
Breakfast Bars
8 SERVINGS Five different types of
coconut go into our quintuple-threat
breakfast (or snack) bars. Nutrient-dense
and sweet enough to satisfy even the
youngest members of your household.

Nonstick vegetable oil spray

6 oz. Medjool dates (about 12),
pits removed
cup whole wheat flour
cup old-fashioned oats
(not quick-cooking)
1 tsp. kosher salt
tsp. baking powder
1 cups almonds, divided
cup room-temperature virgin
coconut oil
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter,
room temperature
cup coconut sugar
2 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. agave nectar
or honey
1 cup sweetened shredded
coconut
tsp. finely grated lime zest
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
cup unsweetened coconut flakes
cup unsweetened shredded
coconut
Preheat oven to 350. Lightly coat an
8x8" baking dish with nonstick spray, then
line with 2 sheets of parchment, leaving
overhang on all sides. Bring dates and
1 cup water to a boil in a small saucepan.
Reduce heat and simmer until liquid is
almost completely evaporated. Let cool.
Meanwhile, pulse whole wheat flour,
oats, salt, baking powder, and 1 cup
almonds in a food processor until
almonds are very finely ground, about
1 minute. Add oil, butter, coconut sugar,
and 2 Tbsp. agave and pulse to combine.
Pulse in sweetened shredded coconut.
Transfer coconut-oat mixture to
baking dish and pack evenly across
bottom of dish, tamping and smoothing
with the bottom of a dry measuring
cup (the more compact it is, the better
it will hold together when baked).
Pulse dates, lime zest, and lime juice
in food processor, scraping down sides
as needed, until smooth. Spread date
pure evenly over coconut-oat mixture,
leaving a " border around edges.
Chop remaining cup almonds and
mix in a small bowl with unsweetened
coconut flakes, unsweetened shredded
coconut, and remaining 2 tsp. agave.
Scatter evenly over date pure and press
in lightly with your hands. Bake until
top and bottom are browned and edges
are very firm, 4045 minutes. Let cool
before cutting into eight rectangles.
DO AHEAD: Bars can be baked
3 days ahead. Store airtight at room
temperature.

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.

Coconut Chicken Curry with

Turmeric and Lemongrass

GO NUTS

So you bought all

the coconut products
in sight. Heres what
to do with them.
Find more coconut
pantry items in Prep
School, page 110.
V I RG I N
COCONUT OIL

Toss vegetables in
it before sauting
or roasting. Itll add
a clean, coconut-y
aroma (but not
overpowering lavor).
COCONUT MILK

Only made it halfway

through a can?
Combine equal parts
coconut milk and
water as a sub for
milk in a dairy-free
rice pudding.
U N SW E E T E N E D
COCONUT FLAKES

CoconutDate Power
Breakfast
Bars

Toast them in big

batches at 300,
then sprinkle all
week long on peanut
butter toast, fresh
fruit, soups, sauted
greens, and curries.
SW E E T E N E D
SHREDDED
COCONUT

Add a stealthy dose to

virtually any baking
recipe ( cup wont
impact most recipes).
C O C O N U T SU GA R

The alt-sugar
reportedly has a lower
glycemic index
than regular sugar,
plus a molasses-like
edge. Use it in
oatmeal or cofee.
CHRIS MOROCCO
U P N E XT

What ingredient will

inherit coconuts crown?
If we were a betting
magazine, wed put our
money on kelp. The
seaweed has moved from
traditional Japanese
cuisine to health food
stores and now to
restaurants (see: the
seaweed pickleback at
L.A.s Plan Check Kitchen
+ Bar). The move to home
kitchens should be on
the way. See our favorite
brand on page 22.

DINING OUT, THE YEEZY WAY

HIP-HOP STARS ARE THE BEST TEACHERS . Work advice? Thank Rick Ross. Love advice? Credit Common.
Its how we learned to aspire to parties at Bungalow 8 and wardrobes by Tom Ford and Margiela.
Meals are no exception (dinner at Raos, anyone?). So, with the help of Genius Rap Stats site,
we traced whats blown up over the years, according to those who ate it first. ELYSSA GOLDBERG

NO.

OUI!
R I C K ROSS

C H A M PAG N E TAST E S

SAYS
ROS
150+
TIMES

than anyone
else in 2015.

2015

2010

1995

DRAKE

RHYMED
MORE
ABOUT
FOOD

2000

YES!

2005

Currently, the most popular

brands in order are: Dom,
Cristal, then Krug. Cristal was
on top until the mid-2000s.

in his songs.
(No wonder his
nickname is
Ricky Rozay.)
In particular,
hes fond of
Luc Belaire Ros.

D O M V S . C R I S TA L V S . K R U G

Baby let me get you some lobster / Matter of fact let

me get you seafood, rice, and lobster / Let me get you
some red velvet cake / Baby its Miami Finga Lickin

Restaurants
Jay Z has
referenced:
Raos
Four Seasons
Restaurant
Shark Bar
Sushi restaurant
McDonalds
Mercer Kitchen
Mr. Chow
Tao

In a French-ass
restaurant /
Hurry up
with my damn
croissants
KANYE WEST,
I AM A GOD

Most commonly used

food term to describe money:
DOUGH (not cheddar,
chedda, cheese, lettuce, etc.)

DJ KHALED, PLUGGING HIS MIAMI RESTAURANT,

FINGA LICKIN, ON THE SONG GOLD SLUGS

PAT R N
VS.
CROC

Chick-fil-A
Roscoes
McDonalds
Taco Bell
Pizza Hut

2015

2010

2005

2000

Most beloved
fast food

C H E E S E VS. D O U G H VS. C H E D DA

VS.

SUSHI IN RAP CORRESPONDS

WITH ITS POPULARITY IN THE
U.S.; THERE ARE FEW MENTIONS
BEFORE 1988.

BACA R D I
VS.
GREY GOOSE

IN THE PAST DECADE: TIE FOR GOOSE AND

PATRN IN HIP-HOP SONGS THAT HAVE MADE
IT TO NO. 1 ON BILLBOARDS HOT 100 CHART

Wheres Fargo?
(Timbaland,
Timothy Where
You Been)

JAY Z,
MAYBACH MUSIC II
(THE LOST VERSE)

YUM!

HERB
VS.
A S PA R A G U S
VS.
B L U E B E R RY Y U M

2015

2010

Healthy-sounding
pot slang is rising
as herb falls.
2005

Let the
Cristal flow
(Ganghis Khan,
Dumbfoundead)

Aliz and vodka

UP IN
SMOKE

1995

My car go
(Notorious B.I.G.,
Hypnotize)

Six deuce
every time,
I never had
the Heinz /
Fifty-seven
cant catch up
to mines

2000

Lines
rhymed with
escargot:

Cocktails
weve learned to
make (inspired
by Kendrick
Lamars
The Recipe):

Got the lamb

rack, panroasted, laced it
with fennel /
Little yogurt
that been
drizzled over
might be a
winner / Come
and see me,
Nonna handmakes the
fettuccine
ACTION
BRONSON,
NORDIC WIND

RIHANNA

SAYS
CAKE
142
TIMES
in Birthday
Cake (Remix)
with Chris Brown.

151 rum,
pineapple
juice, Malibu
Gin and juice
Malibu and
Grey Goose
Olde English
and orange juice
Lemonade,
Croc, and
Welchs
Grape Juice
Bacardi Dark,
Bacardi Light,
triple sec,
grenadine,
pineapple juice
in a water bottle

MOST P OPUL AR FANCY COOKING TECHNIQUE: FRICASSEE

PHOTOGRAPHS: GEORGE PIMENTEL/WIREIMAGE (DRAKE); ILYA S. SAVENOK/GETTY IMAGES (RICK ROSS); DOMINIQUE CHARRIAU/WIREIMAGE
(KANYE WEST); JB LACROIX/GETTY IMAGES (RIHANNA); MICHAEL STEWART/WIREIMAGE (JAY Z). ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.

2015

2010

VS.

2005

1995

H E N N E S SY

2000

Rappers arent popping bottles of big-name LIQUOR like

they used to. Maybe theyve moved on to craft distilleries too.

1995

CAV I A R P E A K E D I N 1 99 5. N OW I TS A B O U T LO B ST E R .

CHOCOL ATE

Heather Johnston
Pediatrician to
Veruca Chocolates

The women I worked

with never saw their kids.
One night, my husband
and I were carrying
1,000 chocolates to a
party, and he goes, This
is not a hobby anymore.
Time to make a life
choice. Now I see my
kids every dayexcept
in December.

T his bra nd
be g a n
with just
$3 ,0 0 0. Now,
production
t ops 40 0,0 0 0
b ot t l e s a
month.

I Quit My
Boring Job
So I Could
Make...
N O.

7
KOMBUCHA

COFFEE

INTERVIEWS BY CHRISTINA CHAEY. PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.

Grady Laird
Publishing to
Gradys Cold Brew

I worked at GQ in 2010,
and I took in batches
for my coworkers. I got
calls from editors at
Wired and Vogue who
wanted some too. The
day I quit was the day
GQ published a blog post
about me. I was like,
Finally! I can leave.

KIMCHI

Kheedim Oh
DJ to Mama Os
Premium Kimchi

In 2010, my band
wanted to move to L.A.
Instead, I bought a
bodega in Queens and
turned the stockroom
into my factory. I was
there seven days a
weekme and the
sandwich guy. Nowadays,
food companies start
with, like, funding.
#HUMBLEBRAG

Daina
Slekys Trout
Pharmaceuticals
to Health-Ade
Kombucha

When I
started in
pharmaceuticals,
I wanted to
be CEO. But it
felt like it would
take 30 years.
So five years in,
my husband,
my best friend,
and I decided to
start a business.
I had gotten
into brewing
kombucha in
grad school.
When I served
some at one of
our meetings, my
friend said, Why
dont we just sell
this? After we
sold out at one
farmers market
in 20 minutes,
I knew wed hit
on something.

71

N O.

Americas
Melting Pot
Has Never
Tasted Better

Call it fusion.
O r what ever
else you want.
But even Donald
Tr ump would
endor se a di sh
t hi s deli ci ous
B Y A N D R E W K N O W LT O N

PHOTOGRAPH BY RUSH JAGOE.

ILLUSTRATION BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.
FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

HERE ARE A FEW THINGS I ATE

last week: pho ga, xiao long bao

(a.k.a. soup dumplings), migas
tacos, and a falafel sandwich.
I wasnt even jet-setting around
the globeit was just another
average week of great meals
right here in the U.S.A.
How many other places on the
planet can you eat this diversely?
Zero. And you know whom
you have to thank? Not Betty
Crocker or Colonel Sanders. Its
immigrants, their children, and
their grandchildren. Without
them, this son of the South would
be writingcredit
about pimiento cheese
goesand
heretuna surprise
sandwiches
over and over.
Increasingly, American food
is world food; its fusion cooking.
I havent used that word since
I last ordered wasabi mashed
potatoes in the late 90s, but how
else do you describe dishes like
kimchi quesadillas and kung
pao pastrami? Or take the food
at MoPho in New Orleans, where
chef Michael Gulotta seamlessly
combines global influences.
Yes, its fusionbut its also
American. Have you tried to
find an edible burrito in Norway
or decent sushi in China? I have.
It hardly exists.
So to those going on about
protecting our borders, my
only response is: Really? You
dont like chicken tikka masala?
Or khao soi? Or hummus?
America is already great, and
I want to make it even greater
(i.e., more delicious). And as any
sensible cook will tell you, you
cant do that without diversity.

MoPhos spicy
wok-fried
ramen with blue
crab, chiles,
and mint relies
on Japanese,
Mediterranean,
Creole, and
Thai flavors.

73

Here at BA, we
like to think were
as indie-minded as
everyone else in
the food world. But
when you work in the
tallest skyscraper in
America, its hard to
argue youre keeping
it real. Fortunately,
small journals are
unearthing the ways
craftier people are
getting down with
food. Heres how we
catch up without
leaving our cubicles.

Read
Em and
Eat

CHERRY
BOMBE

N O.

9
LUCKY
PEACH

FOOL

David Changs kinda

drunken, always
amusing Momofuku
worldalbeit a version
with zany ramen
illustrations and issues
dedicated to plants and
breakfast. The latest:
a new website.

Talented Swedes
Lotta and Per-Anders
Jrgensen highlight
pros like Magnus Nilsson
and Massimo Bottura.
Meanwhile, Fools
fantastic Spotify
account goes into
the ears of chefs.

B RU TA L
MAGAZINE

THE
GOURMAND

GAT H E R
JOURNAL

It caters to people into

avant-garde fashion and
food with simple recipes
and shoots of gorgeous
shoes and/or fresh fruit.
Good parties, too, at
places like BA fave
El Rey, so heres hoping
we get the next invite.

This London mag

skews more art book than
scrappy zine. Vintage
photos of Liberace
cooking (!) complement
smart long-form writing,
while its on screen
site publishes
interactive galleries.

Seasonal recipes
built around artistic
themes like magic,
cocoon, or the latest,
origin. A useful app
compiles all the recipes
(and saves that nice
paper stock from
grease splatters).

74

Find these
mags online
or wherever
handmade
ceramic spoons
are sold.

#NEVERSTOPEXPLORING

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.

Yahoo Food editor

Kerry Diamonds take
on stylish women chefs,
along with the lady
stars who love them.
Some presentations
from Jubilee, CBs
April conference, will
be on its podcast.

N O.

10

THE OMNIBORES DILEMMA

Theres a world of difference between medical dietary restrictions and frivolous culinary fads.
B E N S C H OT T indexes the more irksome fashions afflicting modern food culture

M I C RO B I OT I C

D E TOXY M O RO N

One who endeavors to

compensate for unhealthy
overindulgence with
unhealthy under-indulgence.
K .W. F.

Kosher While Flying

Non-Jews who request the
in-flight kosher option
because the food is better.
In prison this is known as
K .W. I . Kosher While
Incarcerated

The complex calorie calculus by which exercise justifies eating.

EXERCISE

One who simply has to

fork a bite of every dish.

JUSTIFIES

Thinking about going to the gym

croissant
chocolate croissant
5-minute warm-up with a yoga ball
the third beer
15 minutes on a recumbent bike
cheeseburger and fries
Elaborate posing with free weights
tasting menu with wine pairing
30-minute jog in the park

G LU T E N AU G H T

One who disdains gluten

not for any medical reason,
but because its considered
to be A Bad Thing in General.
BENEVIOLENCE

Ordering for the table

dishes only you want to eat.
Not to be confused with
MENUNOMICS

H I P ST E R V EGA N

GY M AT H T I C S

F.O. M .O.VA R I A N

Consuming an absurdly
large portion by painstakingly
dividing it into seemingly
insignificant nano-bites.

Tactical ordering to
obtain a subtle advantage
when splitting the check.

E .W. F.

ramen with blue

crab, chiles,
Deploying incessant
DR. NO-MA
and mint relies
banter about food to distract
on
Japanese,
One who dined at Noma once
from the fact that you never
and never fails to remind you.Mediterranean,
actually eat anything.
Creole, and
Thai flavors.
G R E E N BAC K J U I C E R
SPIRALIZER

An urbanite who bravely

(if vocally) subsists
on limited-edition kale
burgers and vegetarian
chicharrones.

The financial penalty paid

by nondrinkers when splitting
the bill with boozehounds.
S M O R A L I Z I N G

CLEANSE SUCCESS

Similar to
T E E TOTO L L

perception

One who insists on carving

carb-free noodles out
of vegetables. A subspecies is
the ZO O D L I S T who
favors the zucchini noodle.

reality
JUICE PRICE

F I C K L E- P I C K L E R

One for whom the success

of a cleanse is correlated
with the price of the juice.

S CA RS DA L I A N

One who remains doggedly

loyal to diets from the dim
and distant past (e.g., Atkins,
Cabbage Soup, South Beach,
Blood Type, Zone, etc.).

Serenely declining dessert

before taking a spoon
to everyone elses Pavlova.

OMNIBORE

BLEAKEND

One who is so proud of eating

absolutely everything she
becomes as dull as those who
eat absolutely nothing.

An intermittent fast
where you eat like a beast
for five days before
starving yourself for two.

B O N E B ROT H E R

One who imagines he is the

very first to discover soup.
C L A FO U T I STO C R AT

ILLUSTRATIONS
GUTTER
BY BRUCE HUTCHISON

V E N T R I LO Q U I S I N E

Eating While Famous

When emaciated celebrities
pose with gluttonous foods
in an attempt to portray MoPhos spicy
wok-fried
themselves as normal.

One whose dietary whims

mutate with every meal.
S I D EO P H I L E

One who believes that

dressings contain
fewer calories if ordered
on the side.
Not to be confused with
SIDEOPHOBE

One who insists the pastries

are far superior in France.

PAC - M A N G E U R

One who ostentatiously

orders an indulgent dish
only to shovel it off onto
the plates of fellow diners.

One whose diet involves

substituting fries with salad.
Not to be confused with

%
shared

%
eaten

F L E X I TA R I A N

PAT T Y VO R E

I never eat steak . . . except

when Im at Peter Lugers.

One who orders the burger

but doesnt eat the bun.

73

@whatforbreakfast,
307K followers

I try to use
colors that
make my meal
kind of pop
up. Oh, and
fried eggs!

11

N O.

@bonappetitmag

1hr
1hr

You Got the

Gram, Right?

@bonnietsang,
78K followers

Sweets and
little treats
appeal to
the widest
audience.
Who doesnt
get excited
when they
see ice
cream?

BY JULIA KRAMER

W h en ever y
taco is just a pic
wa i ti n g to h ap p en ,
w h at yo u e at r e a l l y
m atter s . We p o lled
Insta-star s for
advice proven to
b low u p yo u r feed

#BLESSED

For the
recipe for these
like-baiting Tex-Mex
Breakfast Waffle
Nachos, go to
bonappetit.com
/nachos

@linda_lomelino,
655K followers

People
really like
foods that
drip, like
caramel,
maple
syrup, and
chocolate.

PHOTOGRAPH BY PEDEN + MUNK.

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA
JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY
AMY WILSON. ILLUSTRATIONS BY
OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.

VIII.

VI.

X.

IV.

II.

V.

III.

I.

IX.

VII.

Thou shalt worship

Thou shalt not make unto thee any images taken from a
no other god besides natural light
.
angle. For the most flattering perspective, shoot only from directly above. For foods with height
Thou shalt not take thy photo editing
(like
or milkshakes), thou shalt shoot directly from the side.
in vain. Use the VSCO app, download the extra filter packs, then sharpen, bump up the contrast, and
Remember the holy rule: Post no more than once a day.
cool the temperature. But not too much!
Thou shalt not allow an to melt while holding
This commandment still applies while on vacation
.
Thou shalt not ask thy friends to reach their hands into the table and
it up against a brick wall.
Thou shalt
pretend to be natural to get thy birds-eye shot. Everyone will know this is posed .
not gram a dark photo just to broadcast what restaurant thou visited. Even without pics, it did happen.
Thou shalt not steal other peoples overused hashtags (e.g., #dailycortado).
Thou shalt
not bear false witness, e.g., pretend that thy copy of Fool and thy pair of Warby Parker
magically
Thou shalt not covet others likes. Quality over quantity!
landed next to thy avocado toast.

1,684,302 likes
@bonappetitmag BAs 10 Instagram Commandments

77

@nutritionstripped,
194K followers

A bit of
imperfection
is beautiful.
Embrace
that!

@sundaysuppers,
264K followers

Foods that are

universally
popular and that
people really
want to eat
always do well.

12

What Are We

YOUR GRANDPARENTS might have

walked three miles in the snow to
school, but do they even know what
its like to wait six hours for brisket?
From the epic masses at Franklin
Barbecue in Austin to the swell outside
San Franciscos State Bird Provisions
to the specifically timed list at
Pizzeria Beddia in Philly, people will
wait head-shakingly long for food.
Is it worth it? Do these people have
jobs? How long is too long? To find out,
we went to Roses Luxury in
Washington, D.C., which we named
our Best New Restaurant in America
in 2014 and has become notorious
for its lines. We arrived on Saturday,
November 14, at 3 p.m.two hours
before it openedto brave it with 100
other superfans vying for the first
seating. So, what were these people
thinking? L I L L I S H E R M A N

WA I T I N G
SINCE:
4 : 1 5 P. M .

The longest I would

wait in line is probably
till I collapse, but
that could be fairly
soon at my age.
M a r t y, 7 9 , r e t i r e d

WAITING
SINCE:
5 : 1 0 P. M .

I wouldnt pay for someone

to wait in line for methats
cheating. You have to put
in the time for the dinner.
Matt Castaldo, 41,
HR director

78

We had a hot toddy down the street

and got into line. There will be a lot of
drinking while waiting; we think it will
improve the meal. We tried to bring a
flask, but we are not that organized.
M a x M a l l o r y, 2 6 , c o n s u l t a n t

PHOTOGRAPHS BY CAIT OPPERMANN. ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.

N O.

For?
I brought a chair to be
comfortable, just like Gretchen
down therewe are both with
TaskRabbit; I see her all the time.

We have waited in line at

amusement parks for rides,
but never for a restaurant.

WAITING
SINCE:
3 : 3 0 P. M .

I dont know what

makes a line worth it,
but Ive got nothing
better to do at
3:30 on a Saturday.

Adam, 29

I flew to D.C. from

Clearwater, Florida,
to eat here.
Tc h a l l a G r e e n e , 3 6 ,
strategy consultant

WAITING
SINCE:
3 : 4 5 P. M .

Jonathan Lapierre,
4 6 , Ta s k Ra b b i t - e e r

Ke n D r o d d y, 3 1 , e n g i n e e r

The first time, I waited alone

in the line while it was pouring rain
for three hours. Even in the rain,
the line was still this long. And
dammit, it really was worth it.
Jason Kingman,
2 7, t e a c h e r

# F R O M W H E R E I S TA N D

E AT S M A R T

N O.

13

From GMOs to fraught

fish decisions, navigating
the grocery store can feel
like deciphering tax policy:
inscrutable, polarizing, and
apt to make you lose your
appetite. So we asked Dan
Barber for help. Whether
meticulously plating parsnips
at Blue Hill at Stone Barns
in Pocantico Hills, NY, or
serving up scraps at last
years buzzy pop-up, wastED,
Barber is at the forefront of
the future in food. To this
chef, the response to a flawed
system isnt just buying the
right heirlooms. Its a radical
restructuring of how we think
about dinner, one that calls
for new breeds of vegetables,
repurposed roots and peels,
and more seaweed than steak.
The revolution is starting
in restaurants, which means
that saving the world is
going to be delicious.

THE

by B E L L E C U S H I N G - photographs by M A RC US N I L S S O N

MOSTLY
GRAINS

INVERT
T H E P L AT E

The meat-and-three
plate is the American
dinnertime ideal. But as
Barber explained in his
game-changing book, The
Third Plate, a hunk of prime
beef is a mark of unrealistic
dining expectations in
the 21st century. The
protein-centric plate of
food is disastrous, he says.
Instead, make meat
a supporting character
(all the cool chefs are doing
it). Skipping that eightounce steak in favor of two
ounces in a braise leaves
more room for the alt-grains
and colorful vegetables that
are having such a moment.

SOME
VEG

A LITTLE
BIT OF
MEAT

THE PLATE
OF THE
FUTURE
COOK LIKE YOUR
GREAT- GREATGRANDMA

The great dishes of

the world emerged
from peasants working
with what they had
available: pot au feu,
ribollita, Barber says.
Even bouillabaisse
began as fishermen
boiling seafood scraps
on the docks. Limitation
breeds creativity.

81

S E AW E E D

SHELLFISH
FOR THE WIN

Bivalves are
magical. They
actually help to make
the environment
better. Bivalves filter
the water they live
in, create entire
habitats through
some self-made reefs,
and, when farmed,
require no expensive
or destructive feed.
Another dozen
bluepoints, please.
SQUID

CLAMS

A N C H OV I E S

E AT LOW
( C A L LY )

Seems like just when

youve found a fish thats
safe to eat, that one, too,
is on the verge of extinction,
leaving you frantically
navigating the Monterey Bay
Aquarium Seafood Watch
app while the line gets
longer behind you. Heres
some advice from Barber:
Eat smaller. That means
shellfish, sardines, seaweed,
even phytoplanktonall the
seafood toward the bottom
of the food chain (this is
called low-trophic), and
ideally from your region.
Think of tuna and cod as the
corn-fed steaks of the sea:
Take the bait, instead.

OYST E RS

P L A N K TO N

TINY
SHRIMP

ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN

T RY A
NEW BREED

Butternut, meet the

Honeynut. With twice the
flavor and nutrients at
half the size, this new
squash variety, developed
by Cornell plant breeder
Michael Mazourek with help
from Barber himself, is not
only adorable, its the future
of produce. Heirlooms
taste great but can be costly.
Scientists are teaming
up with chefs to develop
breeds that are more
eficientand taste better,
too. Look for the Honeynut
on restaurant menus and in
some grocery stores and at
farmers markets. Up next?
The even tinier 898 squash.

WA I T, A R E N T G M O S B A D ?

Theres a big difference between this

little squash and GMO corn. While
genetic engineering involves the
manipulation of DNA, plant breeding
is an accelerated version of processes
that farmers have followed since
the first field of wheat. Taking
something that couldnt happen in
nature and making it sothats
the kind of stuff that scares the hell
out of me, Barber says.

The Honeynut
is estimated
to pack
double the
beta-carotene
of its hefty
counterpart;
plus, its so
sweet, theres
no need to
add sugar or
maple syrup.

The 898
is only
4 tall.

COMING
AT TRACTIONS

PIRACICABA

Think multiheaded
broccoli. Its thinner stalks
can withstand high
heat and are mild enough
to snack on raw.

MOUNTAIN
MAGIC TOMATO

KOSSAK
KOHLRABI

HABANADA
PEPPERS

It looks normal but

packs ten times the
flavor, plus more
disease resistance.

The alien veg gets

more alien in this
thick-skinned, soccer
ballsize variety.

Another Mazourek
original. Imagine a
habanero pepper, but
all sweet and no heat.

Waited
in line for
more than
an hour to
eat ramen.
Tagged her
photo
#overrated.

14

N O.

She is the 99%.

Also the 42%
of millennials
who posted
on social
media about
the (probably
biodynamic)
wine they
enjoyed last
month.

She last
fought with her
boyfriend after she
painted her nails on
top of a Lucky Peach.
He was saving it for
his archive, and she
KNEW that.

Really likes
what that
local distillery
has been
making lately.
Also, Fireball.

She still
cant
believe her
building
super put
dairy in the
compost
bin.

BY A N N A P E E L E
I L L U S T R AT I O N S BY L AU R A
CA L L AG H A N

Check out her Instagram for

#AvocadoToastTuesdays;
last weeks had 200 likes.

Anatomy of
a Millennial

Millennials are
hungry: They outspend
ot h er g en erat io n s o n
restaurant s and are
forking over $96 billion
a ye ar on food. Here,
a less-than-scientific
look at their purchases

Basically goes
camping just
for the tins
of imported
sardines.

She doesnt
own a vacuum
cleaner, but she does
own a SodaStream (the
Yves Bhar-designed
one, of course). Which
reminds her, she needs
to change the CO2
cartridge.

The bottom
shelf of her
refrigerator
holds a
sourdough
starter, a
kombucha
mother, and a
discontinued
flavor of
Dunkaroos
( for irony).

Hasnt made her own bitters since 2013.

Shes really just much more into shrubs these days.

She simply has more

energy in the afternoons
when she drinks
bulletproof coffee.

Shes not
sure what you
mean by
well liquor,
but can
she please
see the craft
beer list?

RESEARCH BY JULIE MA

She spent
three hours and
$45 tracking down
cardamom pods and
corn flour to make
corn cookiesmore
than it would have
cost to buy a dozen
at Milk Bar.

#SQUADGOALS

She named her

Siberian husky
Teff because
theyre both
ancient breeds.

Shes
spending
14 times
as much on
food as
the average
middleclass
family.
Grass-fed
bresaola
doesnt
come
cheap.

N O.

Pastries
Are So Hot
Right Now

A YOUNG SHOPPERS entry to luxury

fashion used to be perfume. But
execs at LVMH and Prada must have
noticed millennials habit of blowing
their paycheck on food, because
both companies recently battled over
two of Milans most historic cafs.
Instead of launching their own
restaurants (Ralph Laurens Polo Bar),
opening an in-store franchise (Rose Bakery
in Dover Street Market), or collaborating
on pop-ups with a mega chef (Noma
+ Club Monaco), the luxury firms bought
up centuries-old institutions near their
boutiques around Via Monte Napoleone.

Cova, 199 years old and now owned

by LVMH, maintains its gilded aura,
while Pradas Pasticceria Marchesi,
built in 1824, has been given a Miucciaesque makeovercomplete with eyecatching packagingfor its second
location. Wes Anderson recently designed
the Bar Luce in the nearby Fondazione
Pradaanother dream collision of food
and fashionso imagine what he could do
for the rumored Dubai Marchesi. As the
late Louis Vuitton president Yves Carcelle
once said, Ive nothing against Starbucks,
but I think it makes more sense to have a
Cova next door. ALICE CAVANAGH

The
Prada-fied
Pasticceria
Marchesi
in Milan.

# I H AV E T H I S T H I N G W I T H F L O O R S

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF PRADA. ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

15

AQ UAV I T B L E N D # 1
Venus Spirits, Santa Cruz, CA
APPLE DU NORD SPICED APPLE
Du Nord Craft Spirits, Minneapolis
BOSTON RUM
Bully Boy Distillers, Roxbury, MA

VO D K A
Old Fourth Distillery, Atlanta

The brothers
behind Bully Boy
were inspired by the
vault of 1920s liquor
they discovered
in the basement of
their childhood
home.

E B B + F L O W VO D K A
Sound Spirits Distillery, Seattle

D O U B L E RY E !
High West Distillery, Park City, UT
B L U E C OAT A M E R I C A N D RY G I N
Philadelphia Distilling, Philadelphia
EUPHROSINE GIN #9
Atelier Vie, New Orleans

O R GA N I C G I N E V E R
Wigle Whiskey, Pittsburgh
CORN WHISKEY
Louthan Distilling, Baltimore
BLUEBIRD ALPINE LIQUEUR
Thomas & Sons Distillery, Portland, OR

SOUTHERN AMARO LIQUEUR

High Wire Distilling Co., Charleston, SC

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU. ILLUSTRATION BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.

New York
Citys oldest
operating whiskey
distillery.
(It was founded
in 2010.)

G R E E N H AT G I N
New Columbia Distillers, Washington, D.C.

D O G PAT C H W H I S K E Y
Seven Stills, San Francisco
JASMINE LIQUEUR
Koval Distillery, Chicago
P E AT E D B O U R B O N
Kings County Distillery, Brooklyn

The
first to open
in notoriously
dry Utah
since 1870.

BIG CITIES, SMALL DISTILLERIES

NO.

THERE WAS A TIME WHEN D.I.Y. DISTILLERS were backcountry outlaws. These days its
urban hipsters, not hillbillies, who are bottling the countrys best small-batch hooch.
In the past ten years, the number of craft distilleries in the U.S. has exploded from around
35 to more than 750. Much of this boozy boom has been made possible by the loosening
of draconian state and local laws that hadnt been touched since Prohibition, spurred both
by opportunistic, seen-the-light legislatorsthe taxes! the tourism dollars!and dogged
young liquor makers willing to lobby the government to secure their inalienable right
to party. Above, the bottles wed race the Duke boys for. A M I E L STA N E K

87

From left:
James Murphy,
Christina Topse,
Justin Chearno,
and Randy Moon.

N O.

17

W A L K

I N T O

rec ipes by N I C K C U R T O L A - photographs by M I C H A E L G R AY D O N + N I KO L E H E R R I OT T

o
u
r
F
Fo u r

B A R . . .

Musician James
Murphys idea
of a solo career
was to open a
restaurant with
his family and
friends. The
result is that rare
celebrity-driven
spot that just
feels right. Dont
believe us? Let
these recipes show
you the way

Roasted
Carrots with
Stracciatella
and Buckwheat
P. 90

Beets with
Pecorino, Pecans,
and Shishito
Peppers
P. 93

P
P
PUT THIS IN YOUR FACE .

Its 11 p.m., and James Murphy

is sliding glasses of Burgundy
down the bar of his latest project,
a 37-seat Brooklyn spot called The
Four Horsemen. The front man
for the recently reunited LCD
Soundsystem clinks glasses with
Justin Chearno, the Horsemens
wine guru, and a wine nerd from
San Francisco. Behind them a
date-night couple swipes crusty
bread through a bowl of insanely
flavorful shrimp pasta.
Welcome to the new wine bar.
Opened last June, The Four
Horsemen is Murphy & Co.s entry
into a club of culty wine-driven
restaurants like 10 William
Street (Sydney), Ahiru Store
(Tokyo), and Manfreds & Vin
(Copenhagen). It shares a love of
natural wine, a low-key vibe, and
tiny size. Chef Nick Curtola turns
out everything from that bread
to a full-on Wagyu bavette steak.
But with a 300-bottle cellar
built to make your Delectable
followers jealous, classifying
4H proved tricky. Call it a
restaurant, and people wont
realize how special the wine is,
Murphy says. Call it a wine bar,
and people wont realize how
special the food is.
In the end, they leave the
distinction up to the guests.
We made a place we wanted
to go, says Christina Topse,
a Horsemen partner (and
Murphys wife). Somewhere
you can come in solo for an
afternoon glass of wine or have a
blowout birthday meal.
Just one thing: Dont call this a
vanity platform for the Grammynominated co-owner. Murphy
explains: Whenever someone
comes in thinking, Lets go to the
LCD wine bar!, within a couple
seconds they realize, Uh-oh, thats
not what this is at all.
SCOTT DESIMON

Roasted Carrots with

Stracciatella and Buckwheat
4 SERVINGS The little sprinkle of
buckwheat delivers a much-needed
crunch factor. If you dont have any,
add some chopped toasted almonds
or homemade breadcrumbs.

1 lb. small carrots, any color,

scrubbed, tops trimmed,
halved lengthwise
1 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more
for drizzling
Kosher salt
2 tsp. buckwheat groats
tsp. nigella seeds (optional)
1 tsp. Champagne vinegar
1 Tbsp. fresh carrot juice
(optional)
8 oz. stracciatella di bufala,
burrata, or fresh mozzarella,
torn into large pieces
1 cup (packed) mixed tender
herb leaves (such as dill, basil,
cilantro, and/or mint)

B O N I TO B U T T E R

cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

cup bonito flakes
ASS EM BLY

2 tsp. dried shrimp

12 oz. fresh or dried capellini,
tagliatelle, or fettuccine,
preferably egg-enriched
Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 red chile (such as Holland
or Fresno), seeds removed,
finely chopped
2 wide strips lemon zest,
thinly sliced
lb. rock shrimp or other small
shrimp, peeled and deveined,
cut into small pieces
1 Tbsp. finely chopped tarragon
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 scallions, green parts only,
thinly sliced
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A spice mill

or mortar and pestle

INGREDIENT INFO: Nigella seeds, a

pungent peppery seed also known

as kolonji or black onion seeds, can
be found at Indian markets and some
supermarkets, or online.
Preheat oven to 425. Toss carrots
with 1 Tbsp. oil on a rimmed baking
sheet; season with salt. Roast, tossing
occasionally, until golden brown
and tender, 1520 minutes. Let cool.
Meanwhile, toast buckwheat in
a dry small skillet over medium-high
heat, tossing often, until fragrant,
about 3 minutes. Transfer to a small
bowl and stir in nigella seeds, if using.
Place vinegar in a medium bowl and
mix in carrot juice, if using. Add carrots
and toss to coat. Season with salt.
Place stracciatella on a platter.
Arrange carrots over cheese, top with
herbs and buckwheat mixture, and
drizzle with oil.
DO AHEAD: Carrots can be roasted
6 hours ahead. Let cool; cover and
chill. Bring to room temperature before
tossing with vinaigrette.

Pasta with Rock Shrimp,

Chile, and Lemon
This recipe makes more
bonito butter than you need. Use
the smoky, slightly salty mixture to top
your next steak, or to saut greens.
4 SERVINGS

B O N I TO B U T T E R Melt butter in a

small saucepan over medium-low heat,

then add bonito flakes; swirl butter
to combine. Remove from heat and let
sit 10 minutes to infuse.
Strain butter through a fine-mesh
sieve into a small bowl, pressing
on solids; discard bonito flakes. Cover
and chill butter until ready to use.
DO AHEAD: Bonito butter can be made
3 days ahead. Keep chilled.
ASS EM BLY Finely grind dried shrimp

in spice mill or with mortar and pestle;

set aside for serving.
Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling
salted water, stirring occasionally, until
very al dente, about 3 minutes if using
fresh pasta, longer if dried. Drain pasta,
reserving 1 cups pasta cooking liquid.
Meanwhile, heat oil in a large skillet
over medium. Add chile and lemon zest
and cook, stirring, 20 seconds. Add
rock shrimp and cook, tossing, 1 minute.
Add tarragon, lemon juice, pasta,
cup pasta cooking liquid, and 3 Tbsp.
bonito butter and toss to coat. Cook,
tossing and adding more pasta cooking
liquid as needed, until sauce is glossy
and coats pasta and shrimp are cooked
through, about 3 minutes. Season with
salt if needed.
Divide pasta among bowls and top
with scallions and reserved dried shrimp.

Pasta with Rock

Shrimp, Chile,
and Lemon

THEY CANT
ALL BE JIMMY
BUFFETT

A look back at
some not-so-great
celeb restaurants
1994 1999

DIVE!
S t eve n S p i e l b e r g

This submarine-shaped
jointwhere every
30 minutes a siren
blared and a voice
yelled DIVE!was too
much for Vegas and L.A.
1995

PASTA M A N I A!
Hu lk Hogan

Hulkaroni & Cheese

didnt speak to diners
in the Mall of America.
19951998

FAS H I O N CA F
Claudia
S c h i f f e r, C h r i s t y
Tu rlington, E lle
Macp herson , and
Naomi Campbell

Who knew people dont

like being served Oreo
cheesecake by models?
2002

NYLA
B r i t n ey S p e a r s

A post-Justin Brit broke

up with the Cajunthemed Nyla after six
months. She was
20 when it opened.
2011

F L AVS F R I E D
CHICKEN
Flavor Flav

The rapper-fronted
shack in Clinton, Iowa,
lasted three months.
2014

SHE BY MORTONS
Eva Longo ria

Mirrored dessert
menus (for reapplying
lipstick) and gendered
portions (He-Cuts,
She-Cuts, and We-Cuts)
couldnt save it
from numerous health
code violations.
JOSIE ADAMS

Seared Steak
with Cipolline
Onions and
Radicchio

Fried Potatoes
with TomatoChipotle Sauce
and Aioli

Beets with Pecorino, Pecans,

and Shishito Peppers
4 SERVINGS If using different types of
beets, separate them when roasting and
tossing to keep the colors from bleeding.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX LAU (STEAK, CARROTS, BEETS). FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

2 lb. mixed small or medium beets

(such as Chioggia, red,
and/or golden), scrubbed
4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided,
plus more for drizzling
Kosher salt
4 sprigs thyme
cup red wine vinegar
8 shishito peppers
cup pecans
small red onion, very thinly sliced
Hot chili sesame oil and grated
Pecorino (for serving)
Preheat oven to 400. Toss beets with
2 Tbsp. oil in a 13x9" baking dish; season
with salt. Add thyme and cup water.
Cover with foil and roast beets until a
paring knife slips easily through flesh,
6075 minutes. Let cool slightly, then rub
skins from beets with paper towels; cut
into 1" pieces. Toss in a large bowl with
vinegar and 2 Tbsp. oil; season with salt.
Meanwhile, place peppers on one side
of a rimmed baking sheet and pecans
on the other side and roast, tossing nuts
once, until peppers start to blister and
pecans are slightly darkened and fragrant,
68 minutes. Let cool; coarsely chop.
Toss peppers, pecans, and onion
with beets; season with salt. Drizzle with
chili oil and top with Pecorino.
DO AHEAD: Beets can be roasted
3 days ahead. Cover and chill.

Fried Potatoes with TomatoChipotle Sauce and Aioli

4 SERVINGS Four Horsemens glorious
take on patatas bravas requires cooking
the potatoes three times (once blanched,
twice fried). We wouldnt make you
go through all that if it wasnt worth it.
SAUC E

tsp. fennel seeds

2 Tbsp. olive oil
medium onion, finely chopped
Kosher salt
2 chipotle chiles
1 large pasilla, New Mexico, or
guajillo chile, seeds removed
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
tsp. ground coriander
1 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes

P OTATO E S A N D ASS E M B LY

1 lb. russet potatoes, scrubbed,

cut into 1" pieces
Kosher salt
1 large egg yolk
1 garlic clove, finely grated
1 tsp. red wine vinegar
cup grapeseed oil
Vegetable oil (for frying;
about 8 cups)
tsp. paprika
tsp. ground cumin
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A spice mill or mortar

and pestle; a deep-fry thermometer

SAUC E Grind fennel seeds in spice mill

or mortar and pestle; set aside. Heat oil

in a large skillet over medium. Add onion,
season with salt, and cook, stirring often,
until golden and soft, 810 minutes.
Add chiles, garlic, coriander, and reserved
fennel and cook, stirring, 1 minute.
Add tomatoes, crushing with your hands
as you go, and juices; reduce heat
and gently simmer, stirring occasionally
at first and more frequently as sauce
thickens, until sauce is thickened and
jammy, 5060 minutes. Let cool; discard
chiles. Pulse sauce in a food processor
to a coarse pure.
DO AHEAD: Tomato sauce can be made
4 days ahead; cover and chill. Bring to
room temperature before serving.
P OTATO E S A N D ASS E M B LY While tomato
sauce is cooking, rinse potatoes in a
colander under cold water until water
runs clear. Transfer to a large pot and
pour in cold water to cover by 1". Season
with salt and bring to a gentle simmer;
cook until potatoes are just tender, 2025
minutes. Drain and transfer potatoes to a
kitchen towellined rimmed baking sheet.
Chill (uncovered) until cold, about 1 hour.
Meanwhile, whisk egg yolk, garlic,
and vinegar in a small bowl to combine.
Whisking constantly, gradually drizzle
in grapeseed oil and continue to whisk
until aioli is thickened and emulsified.
Season with salt; stir in 1 tsp. water.
Fit a large pot with thermometer and
pour in vegetable oil to measure 3". Heat
over medium-high until thermometer
registers 325. Working in batches, fry
potatoes until skins begin to slightly
bubble around edges but do not brown,
about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon,
transfer potatoes to paper towels to drain.
Reheat oil until thermometer registers
375. Working in batches, refry potatoes

until golden brown and very crisp,

about 3 minutes per batch. Transfer
to fresh paper towels to drain.
Toss potatoes, paprika, and cumin
in a large bowl; season with salt. Serve
potatoes with tomato sauce and aioli.
DO AHEAD: Potatoes can be blanched
1 day ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.

Seared Steak with Cipolline

Onions and Radicchio
4 SERVINGS The bavette cut is a wellmarbled piece from the end of the
sirloin, prized for its flavor. Your butcher
might know it as flap steak; if not,
go with sirloin, hanger, or flank instead.

1 lb. bavette (or flap) steak, cut into

4 pieces, or one 22"-thick
boneless sirloin (about 2 lb.)
1 lb. cipolline onions
1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. olive oil;
plus more for drizzling
Kosher salt
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 cups torn radicchio (such as
Castelfranco, Chioggia,
and/or Treviso)
2 tsp. red wine vinegar
Preheat oven to 350. Let steaks sit at
room temperature 1 hour (this will help
them cook more quickly and evenly).
Meanwhile, toss onions on a rimmed
baking sheet with 1 Tbsp. oil; season with
salt. Roast, turning halfway through, until
deeply caramelized and tender, 2530
minutes. Keep warm.
Heat a cast-iron or ovenproof skillet
over medium-high. Rub steaks with
2 tsp. oil (you want just enough to coat
them); season with salt. Cook steaks
2530 seconds. Turn and cook another
2530 seconds. Continue process
of cooking and turning steaks until
both sides are deeply browned and
an instant-read thermometer inserted
into the thickest part registers 130,
810 minutes.
Add butter to skillet and cook,
tilting pan and spooning melted butter
over meat, until steaks look glossy
on top. Transfer to a cutting board and
let rest 10 minutes before slicing against
the grain.
While steaks are resting, toss radicchio
and vinegar in a large bowl to combine.
Drizzle with oil and season with salt;
toss to coat.
Serve steak with onions and radicchio.
93

T H E T E C H N O L O G I ST

N O.

18

Behold!
The
Future
of Food
None of these seve n
p e o p l e a r e c h ef s . B u t yo u l l
want to remember their names .
Bec ause by 2020 they will have
ra d i c a l l y c h a n g e d t h e way we e at

94

DANIELLE GOULD
CEO and founder, Food + Tech Connect

B Y BELLE CUSHING

Can technology fix the meat industry? Gould gets

answers to questions like this at the hackathons she
hosts for food-tech disruptors. Up next: With up to
5,000 people in food-tech companies and investments,
Goulds calling NYC the Silicon Valley of food.

T H E ACA D E M I C

T H E R E STAU R AT EU R

WILLIAM ROSENZWEIG
Dean and co-founder, Food Business School at the CIA

KIMBAL MUSK
Co-founder, The Kitchen restaurants and The Kitchen Community

When the Culinary Institute of America wanted

to launch a business division, it tapped Rosenzweig.
The savviest M.B.A. in food will teach courses like
Scale Up Your (Authentic) Food Business.
Up next: A graduate-level certificate program.

The other Musk brother mixes business knowhow with a culinary degree to launch restaurants
that source local food efficiently. His partner
.
nonprofit builds gardens in schools
. Up next:
Three restaurants in Memphis; 66 school gardens.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY LAURA CALLAGHAN

T H E L O CA L F I S H M O N G E R

T H E AC T I V I ST

SEAN BARRETT
Founder, Dock to Dish

F L AV I A C A B R A L
Activist, Fight for $15

The CSA model applied to seafood, with weekly

hauls of undervalued options like butterfish
delivered straight from boats to restaurants like
Le Bernardin in NYC and Providence in L.A.
Up next: Expansion to Vancouver and Costa Rica.

When Cabral isnt at one of her two jobs, one

at a Manhattan McDonalds, she briefs politicians and
coordinates strikes. Thanks to her and other activists,
New York became the first state to approve a $15 fastfood minimum wage. Up next: A push to unionize.

THE COOKBOOK PUBLISHER

T H E C O N G R E SSWO M A N

AARON WEHNER
SVP, Clarkson Potter, Ten Speed Press, and Harmony Books

CHELLIE PINGREE
U.S. Rep., Maines 1st District

His transformation of Ten Speed from an offthe-radar publisher into the house of coveted deals
(Ottolenghi!) led him to take on Clarkson Potter, too.
Ina Gartens sales can now back Korean-food comic
books. Up next: Daniel Humm; Chrissy Teigen.

The representative advocates for small farmers,

fishermen, and chefs. Her latest bill on food
waste calls for a rewrite of sell-by dates and new
tax credits to redirect unsold produce.
Up next: Negotiations on the 2018 Farm Bill.

THREE DAYS OF MUSIC,

110 GALLONS OF QUESO

ChiLantro kimchi fries

DO YOU REMEMBER what you used to eat at music festivals? We dontbecause it was so
unremarkable. Now amped-up tacos and artisanal ice pops are as much of a draw as the
headliners. After all, youve gotta give the people what they wantand the people want
tasty food. We caught the crowd at Austins Fun Fun Fun Fest digging in. EMMA WARTZMAN

Food is
critical. If Im going
to be at a festival for
three days, Id hope
to have access to
pretty great food.
Anthony
Mathieu

You need
food if you
want to party.
D a n ny
Vac o n

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAYMON GARDNER. ILLUSTRATION BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.

We dont have a
lot of food trucks in
Canada. People probably
thought we were weirdos
because we were so
happy to have tacos.

Slab BBQs ribs and slaw

Franks hot dog with beer cheese

Reb ecc a
White

I love
wasting money
on good food.
Jo rdan H.
B ake r, l e f t

ON THE
LINEUP

3,20 0

1,50 0

900

698

674

11 0

Kimchi
fries at
ChiLantro

Cucumber-kale
agua frescas
at JuiceLand

Fried brussels
sprout salads at
East Side King

Frozen peanut-butterand-Oreo-dipped
bananas at Bananarchy

Notorious P.I.G.
sandwiches
at Slab BBQ

Gallons
of queso
at Frank

#BUCKETLIST

A Dessert That
Everyone
Can Agree On
N O.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GENTL & HYERS. FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.
ILLUSTRATION BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN.

The
avo c ad o s a d d
creaminess
a n d b od y
without dairy
or eg g .

20

Its vegan.* Its

supe rfood-y. It
even has avoc ado
in it. Maybe thats
w hy t h e b e a u t i f u l
peo pl e at BA Hot
10 winner Gjusta
in Ven ic e, CA ,
c ant get enough
of th is ( n o -co o k ! )
b ow l of c h o co l at e
amazingness

*Vegans
can
sk ip the
whip pe d
crea m.

Chocolate-Avocado Pudding
Scoop flesh from 2 large avocados into a blender and scrape in seeds from 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise; discard pod.
Add cup unsweetened cocoa powder, cup pure maple syrup, cup agave nectar, cup fresh orange juice, and
tsp. kosher salt and blend to a coarse pure. With motor running, gradually stream in cup hot (but not boiling) water;
blend, adding more orange juice as needed, until smooth and creamy. Divide pudding among eight 46 oz. ramekins or
small bowls and chill at least 2 hours and up to 3 days (cover once set). To serve, whip 1 cups heavy cream in a medium bowl
to soft peaks and spoon over pudding, if desired; top with cup cocoa nibs and/or chopped hazelnuts. 6 servings
97

N O.

21

Jonathan
Brooks, chef
and owner
of BA Hot 10
winner
Milktooth in
Indianapolis.

by J O H N B I R D S A L L - photograph by M A T T H A A S

Artisanal
pickles, handthrown ceramics,
and pour-over
coffee helped turn
the New York City
borough into a
name brand. But
what happens now
that those things
exist more or less
everywhere? A visit
to Indianapolis
(yes, Indianapolis)
to learn what
locally made
means for the locals

B R O O K
B R O O K L
B R O O K
B R O O K L
B R O O K
B R O O K L
B R O O K
B R O O K L
B R O O K
B R O O K L
B R O O K
B R O O K L
B R O O K
B R O O K L
IS

L Y N
Y N
L Y N
Y N
L Y N
Y N
L Y N
Y N
L Y N
Y N
L Y N
Y N
L Y N
Y N

THE LOCAL BEER IS CRAF T.

It costs $8 for a small plastic cup of stout

that tastes like chocolate porridge. I set
it on the bar and watch the liquid heave
and crater from waves of feral folk-rock
thrashing the packed room, coming from
a bandannad blond kid onstage with a
guitar, hair pasted to his pink face by
righteous sweat.
Band stickers cover random surfaces
of this old building like scales on a halfscraped salmon. Upstairs its open studio
night, and women in wool beanies and
art bros in Woolrich snowlake pullovers
hustle past the galleries, cocking their
heads to ponder installations referencing Star Wars circa 77.
Its my irst time in this place. Maybe
like you, though, Ive been here before
anyone whos walked through Williamsburg or seen an episode of Girls has. Its
a landscape of under-35s, bristling with
locally brewed IPAs, restaurant pop-ups,
and new kinds of mustard. And everybodyliterally everybodyis flaunting
freestyle forearm ink.
But tonight Im not in Williamsburg.
Im in Indianapolis. And whats playing
in Indy, on this raw December night in
Fountain Square, is a speciic language
of food, style, and cultural appreciation
now spoken all over America and, damn,
all over the world.
Go to Roma Norte in Mexico City,
where youll stroll past guys with waxed
mustaches and women in 80s jumpsuits,
nibbling expensive paletas from a mod
turquoise cart. In Old Town Bangkok,
around the corner from an illicit cockight on the street, theres a young Thai
dude who set up a tiny Third Wave cofee
bar. If you ask, hell tell you its modeled
after San Franciscos Blue Bottle. North,
in Chiang Mai, a couple of Thai hipsters
preside over the kind of barbershop
100

thats the anchor tenant of any Brooklyn

Its best to sit at the counter at Milkblockin the chair, you can throw back tooth, kitty-corner from chef and owner
a shot of whiskey.
Jonathan Brooks as he works the saut
It was less than a decade ago that urban pans. The restaurant does brunch daily
America irst got into this revived notion opens at seven for cofee, passes out
of homesteading, raising Ameraucana menus at nine, and closes at three
chickens and wearing overalls to take all- inside a rehabbed garage. Its bright and
day butchering classes or make things in open; looks like it was decorated by a
their tiny home kitchens (so many mason thrifter with a good eye.
jars full of so many pickles). The Brooklyn
Brooks is 31, though he could pass for
Flea launched in 2008 with its mix of food younger, wearing an apron with strings
and vintage, and by the next year an editor that pinch his back. He has a rooster tatof Edible Brooklyn described a new tooed on his hand, a pigs skull on his
demographic to the New York Times: Its neck, and something on his upper arm
that guy in the band with the big plastic that resembles a fat ear of shucked corn.
glasses whos already asking for grass-fed
For the next 40 minutes, he hands me
steak and knows about nibs.
plates from the line: a warm, delicately
In Oakland, California, where I live, crumbly biscuit made with wild-rice
neighborhoods like Temescal are lour, topped with a thick, cool disk of
mourning braiding salons and African- persimmon butter that tastes like raw
American fried-ish shacks. You can buy Christmas-cookie dough; a Dutch baby
vegan Earl Grey ice cream, or a terrarium pancake with craggy bits of oatmealof succulents, then head to the boutique dukka streusel, dabbed with spheres of
for $129 hand-dyed shirts that arent so pured parsnip so smooth its like the
diferent from those at Le Bon March, whipped butter at IHOP; a grilled cheese
the Paris department store, during last sandwich of Indiana raclette. The bread
is blackBrooks took it astonishingly far
years Brooklyn Rive Gauche pop-up.
None of these objects is deinitively in the panand its perfect that way.
A cocktail arrives: Del Maguey mezcal
Brooklyn, but the sum total nudges cerand poppy-seed liqueur,
tain enclavesChicagos
shaken along with some
Wicker Park, Los Angeegg white. It has tannins
less Silver Lake, and
that ilter up through
Stockholms SoFo or
the mousse-y cloud
cities like Austin and
like smoke through a
Portland (Oregon and
bongs difuser, its been
Maine) into places where
Brooks hands
de-harshed. Its the best
a near-spiritual reverme a Dutch
egg-white drink Ive
ence for anything local
baby pancake
ever had.
and a resolutely dialeddabbed with
in personal style can tip
Everything I taste
spheres of
into caricature. One that,
that day at Milktooth
pured parsnip
astonishingly, looks and
shows of tight techniso smooth
feels the same no matter
cal skills and an easy,
its like the
where you are.
loping conidence. The
whipped butter
food is brilliant.
You see it even in
at IHOP.
Then I begin to ask
smaller cities like Tulsa
him how a kid in Indiaand Indianapolis, where
napolis has the life expeIm pushing through the
crowd at The HI-FI before I head out to rience to produce food at this level, then
taste Indiana-distilled Backbone Bourbon wonder to myself whether Id be asking
at another bar. Its late when I start to think the same of a 31-year-old chef in L.A. or
about whether this city can hit all those Chicago. I must look like a total snob,
Brooklyn notes and still feel distinctively because as I hustle into my coat, making
like Indianapolis. In other words, once you plans to meet up with Brooks later that
look beyond the throwback cocktails and night, I stop to tell the cook who made the
cheesemongers, can our seemingly univer- cocktail how perfect it was.
He says thanks and asks where Im
sal food codes act as a shortcut for cities to
hit on their real potential? Thats what I from. New York?
California, I say.
came to Indianapolis to ind out.
Heres what I always wanted to
know, he asks: When a magazine tells
J U S T U P V I R G I N I A AV E N U E is a
car-strafed condo strip called Fletcher you theyre sending you to Indianapolis,
are you like, Damn, really? Indy?
Place. Thats where Milktooth is.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY OSCAR BOLTON GREEN. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

L AT E R

T H AT

E V E N I N G,

Jonathan Brooks interrupts

himself and points behind me.
I think thats Sleater-Kinney!
I turn to see the backs of two women
leaving the restaurant, Bluebeard. Its
attached to Amelias bakery, which produces very good fennel seedsprinkled
semolina bread.
A smiling man is looming above our
table. If any one person bears responsibility for the Brooklynization of Indy, its
probably this guy, Tom Battista.
Battista, who looks like hes settled
softly into his 60s, used to manage tours
for big acts. He got his start on the road
with David Bowies Diamond Dogs tour
in 1974, and now hes into seeing that
other kinds of young artistsBrooks and
Bluebeard chef Abbi Merriss, to name
twoare giving his city an identity
beyond pork tenderloin sandwiches and
the Indy 500.
He acquires evocative old buildings,
then rehabs and leases them to young restaurateurs who promise to do something
interesting. Thats one huge diference
with Brooklyn: There, restaurant owners
struggle to make rent. In Indy, Tom Battista plays benevolent papa.
Thats what happened with Amelias
too, and with Black Market, where I ate
delicious hunks of roasted beef heart, and
with Calvin Fletchers Cofee Company, a
chilled-out caf nearby. Battista bought
the old garage where Milktooth sits, then
got in touch with Brooks to tell him he
had a place he should check out.
Over drinks and a plate of Parmesanloaded spaghetti, Brooks tells me he used
to hate Indianapolis. He followed his older
brother, a college professor, to Missoula,
Montana, a place he liked for its hunting,
ishing, and lack of bullshit. Hed sometimes drive the eight hours to Portland or
Seattle just to eat in solid restaurants.
Cookings call was too loud to keep
Brooks in Missoula, so he moved to Chicago, staged around for a while till he was
broke, then did the thing he swore he
wouldnt: He came back to Indianapolis.
That sort of migration helps explain
why things that once deined Brooklyn
pottery studios, mead distilleries, or millennials selling their craftshave turned
up all over. Folks like Brooks read about
them online, or got into them while traveling or while living in Brooklyn proper,
then decided there was no reason their
hometowns shouldnt have them too. It
helps that a greater percentage of young
people are moving to cities than ever
before. And why would they choose

The moment I knew something was

Brooklyn itself, where the average onebedroom apartment rents for more than going on, Brooks says, was when I
$2,500 monthly? That doesnt even looked and saw there were more people
include a garden for growing stuf.
ordering chicken livers than waffles.
Brooks and I move on to Pioneer, where
we swab toast through a smooth pink puck
F R O M T H E B AC KS E AT, my Uber
of chicken liver mousse. The bartender is driver is just this wall of long auburn hair.
saying something quietly to Brooks, who I havent been in this part of Indy in a
nods. What did he say? I ask. Brooks long time, she says. Its changed.
explains theyre talking about SleaterChris and Ally Benedyk opened their
Kinney being in Fountain Square, but only sandwich spot, Love Handle, less than six
two of them, without Carrie Brownstein, months ago. Its inside a former Subway
the one from Portlandia. Its never the franchise, complete with fake wood-grain
famous ones who show up, he jokes.
tiles and bolted-down benches. The
Our last stop is Marrow, where John Benedyks grew up in Indy, left for MilAdams, who used to be at Bluebeard, is the waukee for a while, and now theyre back
executive chef. Its after
with their own place,
ten on a weeknight, and
pioneering on the Near
we down old-fashioneds
Eastside, which looks
made with bone marlike it has a way to go
rowinfused rye whiskey
despite the food co-op.
as Adams delivers chitI order the Darger, a
lins fried crisp, delicate
roast pork belly sandThese young
as curls of sloughed-of
wich: pale, tender slices
people
snakeskin, in a shallow
of meat, with chips of
distilling gin
bowl with red chile mash.
rose-colored turnip that
and smoking
Its fantastic, if a bit
have been pickled in
elkfor
overwrought.
pink lemonade. It comes
a lot of them,
At some point, I tell
with popcorn dusty with
Brooklyn
Brooks how Im in Indianutritional yeast mixed
is the Disney
napolis to ind Brooklyn,
with pork fat and fennel
version of
and to see how Americas
butter. Darger, Chris
dominant food trends
tells me, is a reference
their lives.
play out in a place with
to Henry Darger, an outan emerging restaurant
sider artist whose work
scene. I see his face drop, like Ive deliv- was discovered after he died. Chris likes
ered the ultimate insult, regarding these to name his sandwiches for misunderyoung chefs as cartoon characters.
stood geniuses, he says.
I worry hes going to get up and bail.
As I inish the sandwich, Im curious if
Instead he tells me, basically, that I the rawness of a place like Love Handle
havent looked hard enough.
the energy of young chefs, the grand narWe have people who come into Milk- rative built from little pieces of this and
tooth and say, This feels like New York, thatis how actual Brooklyn used to feel
Brooks says. Im like, its not f *#%ing before Paris pop-ups and million-dollar
Brooklyn. Its Indianapolis.
condos. What if it isnt so much IndianapAs I try to smooth things over, telling olis trying to be Brooklyn, as Brooklyn
him I think what he and chefs like Adams wanting to capture something of Indiaare doing is amazing, I feel like the lamest napolis? I think of the kid I saw onstage at
guy in the room. These young people dis- The HI-FI, who told me that it was his irst
tilling gin and smoking elkfor a lot of paid gig. Maybe someday, if everything
them, Brooklyn is the Disney version of falls right, hell be playing Brooklyn.
their lives. Its a gesture, but not substanThen I recall my night at Marrow,
tial. Few of them have their sights on where a young bar-back hovered just out
moving to the coasts, because the real of speaking range before coming up to
achievement isnt getting out of the place Brooks with obvious deference, his head a
where you were born to build a new iden- little bowed. Dude, he managed above
tity for yourself. Its better to stay put and the music, I have to say: I love your trilochange the culturegenuinely trans- bite tattoo.
formwhere you are. And while its easy
Its on the back of Brookss arm, the
for visitors like me to grouse that all these one I thought was a chubby ear of corn.
restaurants in all these cities feel similar,
Trilobite? I asked.
the fact that you can eat this well in IndiaEh, Brooks said. Its kind of a
napolis is alone worth celebrating.
Midwest thing.
101

prep school
TECHNIQUES, TIPS, AND MORE FROM THE BON APPTIT TEST KITCHEN

FROM P. 12

Go-to
Gochujang
The spicy
fermented
Korean pepper
paste is more
than just one
of our favorite
condiments in the
BA Test Kitchen.
Thanks to its
various levels
of heat, the fiery
red soybeanbased paste also
provides a stellar
bottom note to
sauces, a kick to
Mexican salsas,
a boost to miso in
a simple soup or
stewit can even
serve as an allin-one marinade
for proteins
or vegetables.
And its sugars
caramelize when
they come into
contact with
direct heat,
making it an ideal
candidate for
grilling or searing
in cast iron. So
the next time
you need to add
fast flavor and
complexity, reach
for the big tub
you bought for
our GochujangBraised Chicken
and Crispy Rice
recipe. Theres a
reason its not sold
in tiny quantities!

FROM P. 61

KEY MOMENT: FRIED CHICKEN DREDGE

In pursuit of engineering the ultimate fried chicken sandwich, we ate a lot of versions around town.
All the best had craggy, super-crunchy breading. To achieve this at home, all you have to do is add
a little seasoned buttermilk to the flour mixture before the second dredging. This yields clumps of
flour that not only create more surface area, but fry into crispy, golden nuggets. C L A I R E SA F F I TZ

L I LY F R E E D M A N

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU

1.

2.

3.

Dip chicken pieces

into flour mixture, making
sure it gets into every
nook and cranny; dust
off excess. Place chicken
on a wire rack.

Add 3 Tbsp. buttermilk

mixture to the remaining
flour mixture and work
it in with your fingertips
until youve formed lots
of little clumps.

Dip 1 piece of chicken in

buttermilk; let excess drip of,
then transfer to bowl with
moistened flour mixture. Pack
lour around chicken, pressing
firmly to adhere; shake of excess.

M A RC H 2 0 1 6 1 07

PREP SCHOOL

FROM P.61

GRIDDLE
ME THIS
Every breakfast-loving
home cook worth her
flapjacks knows a wellseasoned two-burner
cast-iron griddle is the
key to proper dinerstyle chow. Its a glossy
blank slate, awaiting all
manner of eggs and pork
products. Ours gets just
as much play after work
as it does in the a.m.
Its long, evenly heating
surface is perfect for
getting a hard sear on
quick-cooking meats
(its the length of a whole
skirt steak!), charring
veg, and crisping thick
slabs of bread. If you
want to sound extra fancy,
go ahead and call it a
plancha. Here are
just some of the things
were using it for.

L E A R N H OW TO
BONE OUT A
CHICKEN THIGH
Skinless, boneless chicken is
definitely convenient, but if
you consider fried chicken with
no skin a sacrilege, youll buy
skin-on, bone-in thighs and bone
them yourself. Heres how.
C.S.

1.

Place chicken thigh skin side

down on work surface. Using
a small sharp knife, slice
lengthwise along bone to expose it.

A M I E L STA N E K

Making tons of tortillas

for taco night...
...and searing all
that steak and chicken
for fajita night.
You can fit a lot
of grilled cheese
sandwiches on there.
Griddling whole sides
of salmon and trout
they never fit in a pan.
Lodge Pro-Grid
Iron Reversible
Grill/Griddle.
$75; lodgemfg.com

Sauting sausage
with onions and peppers
like a line cook.

2.

Stand thigh upright and cut

around the end of the bone thats
sticking up just under the joint.

FROM P. 26

The Time Is Rye

Ryes bold, spicy malt flavor is great in cocktails, but its also
delicious in food. We use it to deglaze pans, flavor sauces, and add
depth to desserts. A splash of rye (we like Rittenhouse and Bulleit)
adds richness while heightening the umami factor of sauted or
browned foods like seared meats, caramelized onions, and stir-fried
vegetables. As for how to drink it, thats up to you. R I C K M A RT I N E Z

1 08 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

3.

Place knife perpendicular to bone

and, starting from the top, scrape
downward around all sides.
Cut around bottom joint to release
bone. Save those bones for stock!

FROM P.66

The New
Coconut
Pantry
Coconut oil? So last
year. These days the
cult of coconut is
taking over everything
from flour to vinegar
without making
everything it touches
taste like a macaroon.
Products made from
the flesh (flour, butter)
have a mild flavor, while
anything derived from
the sap (sugar, nectar,
vinegar) has all the
health benefits with
none of the pia colada
tones. Heres to never
eating a non-coconutbased pantry item
again. B E L L E C U S H I N G

SU GA R

F LO U R

BUTTER

N ECTA R

V I N EGA R

Health nuts love

it for its lower
glycemic index;
were into it for
the caramel color,
brown sugarlike
texture, and
slightly earthy
undertones. Sub
in anywhere
youd use regular
granulated (if
baking, consider
powdered).

Dried coconut
meat is ground
into a dense
powder thats
rich in protein
and fiber. It cant
be swapped at
a 1:1 ratio for
all-purpose but
would be welcome
in a gluten-free
baking blend.
We seecoconutbanana bread.

Like nut butter,

this luscious
spread wants
to be smeared
on toast, added
to smoothies,
or just spooned
straight from
the jar. Making
it at home is as
easy as whizzing
coconut flakes in
a Vitamix until
creamy.

This viscous
liquid sweetener
is made from
the sap of
coconut palm
trees. Theres no
coconut flavor,
so it makes a
great alt for
agave or simple
syrup. Guess
what? Your next
cocktail just got a
little bit healthier.

Made from
fermented
coconut sap, this
vinegar is milder
than apple cider
but with all the
nutritional vim
and vigor. A shot
in the morning
might boost your
digestion, or
drizzle on salads
and into sauces to
mix up your acid.

FROM P. 00

ILLO TK

FOOD STYLING BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ. ILLUSTRATIONS BY BRUCE HUTCHISON (DREDGE, THIGHS);

CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (GOCHUJANG, RYE, COCONUT PANTRY).

PREP SCHOOL

FROM P.34

WILL IT CACIO E PEPE?

Pecorino. Black pepper. Two humble ingredients that, when combined
with noodles and pasta water, make for an Italian classic. And Via
Carotas Cacio e Pepe Potatoes rif got us wondering: What wouldnt
benefit from a shower of salty cheese and kicky pepper? A .S.

Fold into warm, just-lufed long-grain rice.

Use to finish broccoli rabe thats been blanched and sauted.
Cover cooked hardy greens like escarole or baby kale.
Blanket roasted baby carrots.
Toss with a tangle of pan-fried spaghetti squash.

FROM P.32

1.

2.

3.

How to...Turn
an Artichoke

Remove several layers of

dark-green outer leaves (until
you get to the light-green
leaves). Using a serrated knife,
cut off top 1" and trim stem
ends. Rub cut ends with lemon.

Working with 1 artichoke at

a time, use a paring knife or
vegetable peeler to trim base
and stem, removing tough
outer layer to reveal pale green;
rub all over with lemon.

Halve artichoke through

the stem and rub cut sides with
more lemon. Use a spoon
to scoop out choke and then
pull out spiky inner leaves;
rub insides with lemon.

Those tender beauties didnt wake

up that way. Heres how to get to the
tasty heart of the matter. C.S.

recipe index MARCH 2016

sourcebook

APPETIZER

SHOPPING LIST

Italian Crudits p.31

BEVERAGES
Iced Horchata Latte p.13
The Rattlesnake p.26
Sparkling Lemon
Cocktail p.34

BREAKFAST
Coconut-Date Power
Breakfast Bars p.68
Coddled Egg p.22

SANDWICH
BAs Best Fried Chicken
Sandwich p.61

SOUP
Aromatic Shrimp and
Noodle Medicine Soup
p.46

MAIN COURSES
MEAT
Hoisin-Glazed Pork
Chops p.40
Seared Steak with
Cipolline Onions and
Red Chicory p.93
Stuffed Lamb Breast
with Lemon, Ricotta,
and Oregano p.35
PASTA
Pasta with Rock
Shrimp, Chile, and
Lemon p.90
POULTRY
Coconut Chicken
Curry with Turmeric
and Lemongrass
p.68
Gochujang-Braised
Chicken and Crispy
Rice p.12

VEGETABLES,
SIDE DISHES
Aromatic Wilted Greens
with Coconut Milk
p.68
Beets with Pecorino,
Pecans, and Shishito
Peppers p.93
Braised Artichokes with
Tomatoes and Mint p.32
Cacio e Pepe Potatoes
p.34
Cannellini Beans with
Spinach p.34
Crunchy Winter Slaw
with Asian Pear and
Manchego p.41
Fried Potatoes with
Tomato-Chipotle
Sauce and Aioli p.93
Roasted Carrots
with Stracciatella and
Buckwheat p.90
Twice-Roasted
Sweet Potatoes with
Hot Honey p.39

DESSERTS
Chocolate-Avocado
Pudding p.97
Dark Chocolate
Semifreddo p.36
GrapefruitPoppy
Seed Loaf Cake with
Yogurt Glaze p.42
FOR NUTRITIONAL
INFO FOR THE
RECIPES IN THIS
ISSUE, GO TO
BONAPPETIT.COM
/RECIPES

BON APPTIT IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE

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1 1 2 M A RC H 2 0 1 6

THE LOOK p. 17
From left to right, top to bottom:
GRANADA LA ROCHELLE TILE $18 per sq. ft.;
granadatile.com
ANN SACKS EASTERN PROMISE GATSBY TILE
$27 per sq. ft.; annsacks.com
GRANADA COPENHAGEN TILE $18 per sq. ft.;
granadatile.com
CLE HEX TRY ANGLE TILE $6 per tile; cletile.com
ANN SACKS EASTERN PROMISE FEZ TILE $27 per sq. ft.;
annsacks.com
ANN SACKS EASTERN PROMISE MAMOUNIA TILE
$27 per sq. ft.; annsacks.com
VILLA LAGOON LISBON TILE $7 per tile;
villalagoontile.com
VILLA LAGOON TANGIER TILE $9 per tile;
villalagoontile.com
KISMET JUNIPER TILE $29 per sq. ft.; kismettile.com
CLE BIG AL TILE $7 per tile; cletile.com
VILLA LAGOON KISMET TILE $7 per tile;
villalagoontile.com
CLE LONDON APOTHECARY TILE $7 per tile; cletile.com
BIG CITIES, SMALL DISTILLERIES p. 87
For information on where to buy, visit the websites.
ATELIER VIE EUPHROSINE GIN #9 BARREL-FINISHED
RESERVE ateliervie.com
BULLY BOY DISTILLERS BOSTON RUM
bullyboydistillers.com
DU NORD CRAFT SPIRITS APPLE DU NORD SPICED
APPLE SPIRIT dunordcraftspirits.com
HIGH WEST DISTILLERY DOUBLE RYE! highwest.com
HIGH WIRE DISTILLING CO. SOUTHERN AMARO
LIQUEUR highwiredistilling.squarespace.com
KINGS COUNTY DISTILLERY PEATED BOURBON
kingscountydistillery.com
KOVAL DISTILLERY JASMINE LIQUEUR
koval-distillery.com
LOUTHAN DISTILLING CORN WHISKEY
louthandistilling.com
NEW COLUMBIA DISTILLERS GREEN HAT GIN
greenhatgin.com
OLD FOURTH DISTILLERY VODKA o4d.com
PHILADELPHIA DISTILLING BLUECOAT AMERICAN
DRY GIN philadelphiadistilling.com
SEVEN STILLS DOGPATCH WHISKEY sevenstillsofsf.com
SOUND SPIRITS DISTILLERY EBB+FLOW VODKA
drinksoundspirits.com
THOMAS & SONS DISTILLERY BLUEBIRD ALPINE
LIQUEUR thomasandsonsdistillery.com
VENUS SPIRITS AQUAVIT BLEND #1 venusspirits.com
WIGLE WHISKEY ORGANIC GINEVER wiglewhiskey.com

TRAVEL PLANNER
COVER
ROBERTAS 261 Moore St., Brooklyn, NY; 718-417-1118;
robertaspizza.com
R.S.V.P. pp. 1213
COFAX 440 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A.; 323-424-7485;
cofaxcoffee.com
OIJI 119 First Ave., NYC; 646-767-9050; oijinyc.com
CHECKLIST p. 22
THE MIAMI BEACH EDITION 2901 Collins Ave., Miami
Beach; 786-257-4500; editionhotels.com/miami-beach
VERDE AT THE PREZ ART MUSEUM MIAMI
1103 Biscayne Blvd., Miami; 786-345-5697;
pamm.org/dining
LOVE LETTER p. 24
CAMINO 3917 Grand Ave., Oakland, CA;
caminorestaurant.com
THE 360 p. 26
ARMOURY D.E. 2714 Elm St., Dallas; armouryde.com
THE MERCURY 675 Ponce de Leon Ave. NE, Atlanta
THE PARTY pp. 3136
VIA CAROTA 51 Grove St., NYC; viacarota.com
THE NEW HEALTHY pp. 4446
ANGKOR RESTAURANT 10 Traverse St., Providence;
angkorrestaurant.com

NAVIGATOR: VANCOUVER pp. 5055

ALIBI ROOM 157 Alexander St.; 604-623-3383; alibi.ca
ASK FOR LUIGI 305 Alexander St.; 604-428-2544;
askforluigi.com
BEAUCOUP BAKERY & CAF 2150 Fir St.; 604-732-4222;
beaucoupbakery.com
THE BIRDS & THE BEETS 55 Powell St.; 604-893-7832;
birdsandbeets.ca
BLUE WATER CAFE 1095 Hamilton St.; 604-688-8078;
bluewatercafe.net
DINESTY DUMPLING HOUSE 4151 Hazelbridge Way;
604-303-9998; dinesty.ca
DOCK LUNCH 152 E. 11th Ave.; 604-879-3625
EXCELLENT TOFU AND SNACKS 4231 Hazelbridge Way;
604-232-0268; excellenttofu.com
FAIRMONT PACIFIC RIM 1038 Canada Pl.;
604-695-5300; fairmont.com
THE FARMERS APPRENTICE 1535 W. Sixth Ave.;
604-620-2070; farmersapprentice.ca
THE FISH COUNTER 3825 Main St.; 604-876-3474;
thefishcounter.com
FISHERMANS TERRACE 4151 Hazelbridge Way;
604-303-9739
GO FISH 1505 W. First Ave.; 604-730-5040
LABATTOIR 217 Carrall St.; 604-568-1701; labattoir.ca
LIDO RESTAURANT 4231 Hazelbridge Way;
604-231-0055
MAENAM 1938 W. Fourth Ave.; 604-730-5579; maenam.ca
O TRAY NOODLE 2285-8181 Cambie Rd.; 778-829-7519
RODNEYS OYSTER HOUSE 52 Powell St.;
604-609-0080; rohvan.com
TONYS FISH & OYSTER CAFE 1511 Anderson St., Granville
Island; 604-683-7127; tonysfishandoystercafe.com
THE CULTURE ISSUE pp. 59101
FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH pp. 6061
BAKESALE BETTY 5098 Telegraph Ave., Oakland, CA;
510-985-1213; bakesalebetty.com
CHICK-FIL-A chick-fil-a.com
THE COMMODORE 366 Metropolitan Ave., Brooklyn;
718-218-7632
FUKU 163 First Ave., NYC; fuku.momofuku.com
LEGHORN CHICKEN 959 N. Western Ave., Chicago;
773-394-4444; leghornchicken.com
SHAKE SHACK shakeshack.com
SON OF A GUN 8370 W. Third St., L.A.; 323-782-9033;
sonofagunrestaurant.com
SOGGY SALAD IS A SHAMEFUL THING p. 62
SWEETGREEN sweetgreen.com
AMERICAS MELTING POT pp. 7273
MOPHO 514 City Park Ave., New Orleans;
504-482-6845; mophonola.com
PASTRIES ARE SO HOT RIGHT NOW p. 86
PASTICCERIA COVA 8 via Monte Napoleone, Milan;
+39-02-7600-5599; pasticceriacova.it
PASTICCERIA MARCHESI 9 via Monte Napoleone, Milan;
+39-02-7600-8238; pasticceriamarchesi.it
FOUR HORSEMEN WALK INTO A BAR...
pp. 8893
THE FOUR HORSEMEN 295 Grand St., Brooklyn, NY;

718-599-4900; fourhorsemenbk.com
BROOKLYN IS WHERE YOU MAKE IT pp. 98101
AMELIAS 653 Virginia Ave., Indianapolis;
317-686-1580; ameliasbread.com
BLACK MARKET 922 Massachusetts Ave., Indianapolis;
317-822-6757; blackmarketindy.net
BLUEBEARD 653 Virginia Ave., Indianapolis;
317-686-1580; bluebeardindy.com
CALVIN FLETCHERS COFFEE COMPANY
647 Virginia Ave., Indianapolis; 317-423-9697;
cfcoffeecompany.com
THE HI-FI 1043 Virginia Ave., Indianapolis;
317-493-1209; hifiindy.com
LOVE HANDLE 2829 E. Tenth St., Indianapolis;
317-430-5004
MARROW 1106 Prospect St., Indianapolis;
317-986-6752; marrowindy.com
MILKTOOTH 534 Virginia Ave., Indianapolis;
317-986-5131; milktoothindy.com
PIONEER 1110 Shelby St., Indianapolis;
317-986-6761; pioneerindy.com

b.o.t .n .
BACK OF THE NAPKIN

PART Y P L A N N E R

Chelsea Handlers one must-have for a great dinner party will

surprise no one who knows anything about the vodka-loving
comedian: Obviously, alcohol is necessary. The former talk show
host has entertained at her Bel Air home for years, mixing what
she calls her eclectic group of friendsthe gardener and someone
whos in a movie coming out that week. Thats the premise of her
new Netflix docuseries, Chelsea Does, in which she gathers
strangers for a dinner party to discuss the exact topics were normally
told to avoid among strangers: racism, infidelity, and drugs. If
guests feel shy at first, Handlers strategy is to just open up about
myself and be honest and unguarded, and people respond in kind,
she says. Also, alcohol. When in doubt, there are always Handlers
surefire icebreakers (see the napkin). SARAH Z. WEXLER

Conversation
starters care
of Handler,
written in Los
Angeles on
November 20,
2015
FOOD STYLING BY ALI NARDI. PROP STYLING BY ANGELA CAMPOS.
ILLUSTRATION BY JOE WILSON.

CHELSEA HANDLER

Id rather eat
cleanlike oysters,
which I loveand
be able to drink.

PHOTOGRAPH BY JOSH DICKINSON

FOOD STYLING BY ALI NARDI. PROP STYLING BY ANGELA CAMPOS.

ILLUSTRATION BY JOE WILSON.

b.o.t .n .
BACK OF THE NAPKIN