, ieee | Mae Bookenc Dress ue ny pil Publication of August Home PublishingNo. 145 February, 2003 DomaldB. Pescike ‘Terry J Strohman Jon Garbison TedRaife Phil Huber Todd Lambirth David Kreyling Dirk Ver Steeg Harlan V, Clark ‘Nathan Robertson Publisher Editor Senior Editor Assistant Editors Art Director ‘Senior Illustrators Graphic Intern ‘CREATIVE RESOURCES: tie Dimclr Tet Keech» Se Pret Deseers Ken ‘Monkes Kent Welsh, Ryan Minick, Chric Fick © Shop Cratamon: steve Curis, Seve Johason * Se Poographe ‘Crylatngand SPECIAL PUBLICATIONS om. We: Doug Hicks «Art Detar Devas 8 it © ‘Sonor Grape Ds: Clo Gea Ser Edt: Crate Rosueruerr Ass for Jol Hess» Graple Dig i Noe londh Ets = BA! iter Cnty Trmcrt erRCULATION. See Series ir Sy Ba «Ne aes Ce, Mr ‘Wee King = Mathmods retin Monae ris et ah Vie Re Ny ae aes ‘ing Coens Maxeger: Rebecca Cumingumn Moneing dues Ke Schermer Pa M. DeNales Grp Deo ar Hayes ola Pend ‘CORPORATE SERVICES Pot Finasce: Mart R Shee © Conrail, Roti. K. Huthinson « ¢ Acrant Laura) Thomas Aes yale J Sots © dete Recseobe Margo Ptrc'» Prodion Dict “Ging Chnetar Hectic Pb. Di: Doula ML ‘Son sinter Contac PME Tek Bat (Goa Peps Inge Sei Woy A Cla, Mae Jolson ® New aa Mp: Goreon G Gappe * 1 Sit Art Dir: Gene Petersen» Wet Serer dmon Carol Schepgler » We Content lg: Deid fgg, Sue. Moe» W0 Dasget Kak Blosinr © Resaiet Clondmalor Nick Ince +Pr: Develofment Die Michal Sigel» HR. Ast: Kirsten Kole ® ‘Offer Mee: Nat Larrle =Faits Nar: Kurt Jotaeon = Bort are ober «Me eo Debra Neto \WOODSMITH MAIL ORDER Operations Direc Bb Bake * Ge. Sea Jose os ‘irnae Sipe Nancy Jonson» Bio Lids fones» Adi, ‘Asi ay Done # Se Gat Serpe ars rok, ‘Sa Cap Reel Deb fh » Cat Sr: Ro ae i: Rin ain Haase Sy Cag WOODSMITH STORE Moe: Duo Lacon» Novehendi Morketig Mer Jebo Stark ‘st Manager nn Thelen «Sls Saf Wentel Sone, ary Morten, Mik John, Cogoey Kool, Dian Mesa = es Ng Vek Bards aes aA Peteatale er [Sites eaemadieacata Peer Sioa ee ee ee ea ‘Rnd ide Webster ta Pinan SA. SNe as COLUM SAWDUST tured a bedside chest. Since then, ‘we've received a number of requests, asking for plans fo furniture pieces to fill out the set. In this issue, we have two projects that fit the il BLANKET CHEST. We started with the blanket chest shown on page 26. It shares many of the same features a5 the bedside chest — bracket fet, tre ditional frame and panel construction, and routed drawer fronts. Allin all, its arather straightforward project afar asthe pinery goes. For the mostpart, itsjust stub tenons and grooves. ‘Well, we ended up witha greatpre- ect for the foot of the bed. So we decided to design 2 woodworking project forthe head of the bed aswel. HEADSOARD. I thought it might be nice to try and create an arch-top frame and panel hezdboard — one that would incorporate some of the detalsinciuded in the blanket chest. Making a curved rail may sound like a complicated procedure. But its really prety simple. All you need isa band saw, a drum sander, and a little handwork with a file and sandpaper. ‘As for joining the ral to the stiles of the frame, a curved top rail could mean some rather tricky cutting and fitting — if you're using traditional ‘mortise and tenon joinery. But with this project we took a dif ferent approach. The entire frame is hheld together with splines and grooves. Not only does this make assembling the frame easier, it also ‘gave us an opportunity to do some- thing different with the panels Instead of using traditional panels that fit nto grooves, the headboard panels “float” on top of the frame and are held in place with splines, If you would like to learn more about this technique, check out the article that starts on page 6. Ta SAFETY CONCERN ‘As we were putting the finishing touches oa this issue, Trecsived an email from a reader who warned us about the dangers of children getting trapped in chests. (Thanks, Denis.) Please, if you plan on building the blanket chest, I would sirongly sug- gest that you drill some air holes in the upper rail in the back ofthe chest. Also, since this project wasn't designed for children, there is no pro- vision for keeping the lid from érop- ping down. So as an added precat- tion, ifchildren are around, | would recommend that you keep the chest locked and put the key ina safe place. Woodsmith Readers’ Gallery ‘Visit ether Woodsrnith subseribers workshops, photos ofthe projctstheyve but. Itsallontine new Readers’ Galery on the Woodsmith web site: ‘www-Woodsmith.com, “We want you to be part ofthe Readers’ Gallery!"To submit photos of your favorite Vioodsith projects or views of your shop, follow theinsirucions youl find at the Reader's Gallery. Woodsmit No.5va Boley Features Arch-Top Headboard . This heirloom-quality project feist a molding ane matching cold wood panels But dont wom, wel show you the simple steps used to build it Straight-Top Headboard................ 15 We've simplijied the design ofthe arch-top headboard for a clasic- looking seaight-wop version with all she same fine eval Arched Molding . 16 If you choughe making curved molding meanc nhs years of ‘experience and industrial-siced equipment, take alook at the straightforward technique we came up with. Arch-Top Bookends ...................-. 18 These simple bookends allow you to try out some of the same tech- ‘niques used on the arch-top headboard. And with some scrap hardwood and MDF you can build them in a weekend. 5 Quick Pro Paint Tips . nee Hie ar feefat ena seni um bene meson fra opes ect with spray pat, Plus, check out two “canned” faux finishes, Installing a Half-Mortise Lock 24 Adding the right hardware, like a half-montise lock, can turn an ‘ordinary project into an heirloom. And we'll show you how. Paneled Blanket Chest..................26 A paneled front, dovetailed drawers that stand proud and bracket feet give this blanket chest an impressive look. Departments Tips & Techniques. Shop Notes . Sources... ~ Paneled Blanket Chest page 2 No.145 Woodsmith 3FROM FELLOW Woopworkers Sorting Thavealotofbinsfilled with tom is made from °/" ply- screws, nuts, bolts, and wood with a wide, shallow. FREE other odds and ends. rabbet cut on one end, as FREE | | sorting through the bins shown in Fig. 1. The sides Online Ties | for just the right part can aro made with '4"-thick lfyoirdikeeven | be a messy ordeal. Soto hardwood and are glued more woodwor- ) keepthings under control, _ to the sides of the tray bot- ingtips.there’sa) | built this sorting tray. ‘tom, (Fig. 1b). simple colon, | The tray is nothing The pouring channel is more than a shallow, simply a piece of 114" LD. Wis eeavey | threesided box. As you PYC ppeeutinhalflengti- [ree ipviaemal | cam see in the photo, wisecn the bandsaw. The the tray. Its long enough Finally, Tadded a screw “every week. what's unique is that the channel is attached to the to extend over the PVC eye to the back sol could maposionincon | oenside oftheboxhasa rabbet in the tray with slightly. This way, the hang the tray on the wall PYC pouring channel. ‘countersunk screws. parts youve sorted cant above my bench. ‘There's not much to Icuta piece of!4"hard- slide back into the tray, as Jolin Frederick building the tray. The bot board to make aliner for shownin Fig 2 Ape iaion, Aone Attach YC under rardboard overhang \ ) Groat a weno Hee NOTE: Yay bottom i Mane made from Me plywood Finishing Buster Onfinishingjobs,Ineeded graduations on the side, a way to mix precise as you can see in the amounts of finish to get photo below, just the right color, ‘This method isalso less So Thought aninexpen- messy than trying to pour sive turkey baster at the finish from a can, srocery store. Be sure fo Geoffiey Caron get one that has Yi oz. Mancos, Cobrado SUBMIT YOUR TIPS If you have an original shop tip, we would like to hnear from you and consider publishing your ip in fone or more of our publications. Just write down your tip and mil it to: Woodsmith, Tips and Techniques, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, lowa 50812, Please include your name, address, and daytime phone number in case we have any questions. If you would lke, PAK it © us at S15- 28L6741 or send us an email message at: wood smith@woodsmith.com, We will pay up to $200 if ve publish your tip. 4 ‘WoodsmithHole Saw Sander On a recent project 1 needed to sand a curved ‘workpiece, but didn'thave ‘a drum sander in the right size. So T came up with an inexpensive solution. 1 wrapped a hole saw with some adhesivebacked sandpaper, as you can see in the photo to the right. ‘Then to keep the teeth of the hole saw from mar ring the workpiece, 1 made an ausiliary table that clamps to my drill press table. Its simply @ piece of plywood with a U- shaped cutout that wraps around the “hole saw sander.” as shown in the drawing below. Note: This technique ‘only works on materials that are 1" thick or less, MarkJarailo Balen, New Mexico Composite Fence Having a gond, straight ence ‘simportantforrouter work, ‘While an plastcis deal, its hard to find and expen- sive. found a good subst- tute at the home center: composite decking (Tre) Whats so great about this material is that it does- xt warp — it stays flat and straight, And ie Cuts easily on the table saw with a car ide blade. You can even plan . Once the surface texture is planed smocth, compos- ite decking works great for the sliding faces of a router table, asin Fig. 1 Or you can make a sim- ple fence that clamps to a router table, as shown in Fig. 2. To eliminate flexing, ‘screw two pieces together in an Lshape. Then cut an ‘opening in each fence piece fortherouter bit. Stank Keasovic Honesdale, Pennsylvania ‘A Cut and plane composite decking ju lie veal wood Zero—Clearance Cards ‘While cuting thinparts on it could dislodge the blade from the lower guides. J found a simple solu- tion to the problem in my wallet, Imade «handy zero-clearance opening See-Through Keeping an assortment of scratch remover pens on hands greatvvay to make touchups during finishing or for repair work. However, picking the best itch between my colle: tion ofpens and an existing finish has always been a trial and error process. Opening up the pens so many times risks heving them dry out, Tve come up with 2 eas jer way to select the right pen. Make large-sized No. 145 ‘with come spare business cards. I taped two cards ‘on the table of the saw on either side of the blade, as you can see in Fig. 1. Best ofall, the cards are so thin they don’t interfere with the operation ofthe fence. ‘Cary Christensen Ankeny, lowe. inish Repair color samples on a sheet of acetate (the kind of plastic film used for over: head presentations), 1 grouped the colors by pen manufacturers. Next to each sample, write the name of the color, as you ‘can see in the phot. By holding the set of color patches next 10 @ reject, I can easily make the best repair choice ‘without removing cap. Lasry Morse Framingham, Massachsets Woodsmithfs mich oe out ised — ig, the curved panels, znd the sturdy posts —but what I red elec hou pv bull Bren gh he eer Ele esto be Gpialiae exaust) fen ste BN does trovesan sings a Ste tea jst doneln sal se Theta tnanyor mat tink forone Wn tl in tg ona cope | e wort Winey hile the blanks ee soon cel eat ate 16. that ‘want ota plans her to avoid can complete the bedroom for this project (the blanket ch&Construction Details (OVERALL DIMENSIONS: Groove cut Upper sail 1 itfengds of and mating SSW AE/ ROAD ° post, then plugged Start out 35 “ath filers splines ein enya SIDE SECTION VIEW onlin a Rails and stiies ne joined with ee eae suas sd ee aes ne | rae cmp ae ea aptou aan i Ey Forinare on makin oro TR ley arched | * and 1"-thick sides sues et ‘ie I nin feieee as ee ear No. 45A The bed posts acon’ sob They've ued up from four pieces that ee joined swith rabbets. A Long poss require alot of clamps, true you cam work round this. Once section is pulled tight, you can secuae it with cape and then reposition che clamp. Posts Ateach end ofthe headboard, there are sturdy 3!4"'square posts that will ‘supportthe frame and panels. Instead ‘of gluing up thick stock to create solid posts that would be heauy and have alot of joint lines, I assernbled each post from four pieces, as shown in the photo at left and in Fig. 1 20SH FAGS & SiS. What's a bit unusual about these posts is that ‘the pieces arenotall the same thick- ness, as you ean see in Figs. 1 and Ta The four post faces (A) infront and beck are cut oversized in length, and width from "thick stock. But for the post sides (B), { used 5/4 stock 20 14!-deep grooves could be cut for some splines that will be used to connect the frame later. (he four side pieces can be cut to final width and rough length) Design Note: You will need quite a Dit of 5/4 stock fer this project, and while it can often be milled to 1a" thick, [planed my stock down toan even 1" thick to remove any cupping and clean up the faces. You can leave your 5/4 pieces thicker, but the dimensions for the posts here are based on I!thick stock To ‘wrap around” the sides, the face pieces need %4'-deep rabbets cut along each edge (Fig. 12). But 1 ‘waa concerned that the face pieces might tip as these wide rabbets ‘were being cut. So instead, I actually cut two grooves, as shown in Fig. 2 (This will work because the feces start cut extra wide.) Then I:ipped the faces over and trimmed enough off each edge so the rabbets matched the thickness ofthe sides (V9, as you can see in Fig. 2b. Next, the grooves for the splines can be cut on one ofthe side pieces y faces start ide 7), ai pieces Startout ‘ofeach post asin Fig. 1a. To do this, it’s easiest to use the table saw, and by flipping the piece end for end between passes, these grooves will be centered automatically. ASSEMBLY. At this point, the posts are ready to be glued together. Of course, with pieces that are nearly five feet long, it would take a whole Jot of clamps to pullthe rabbets tight along the entire length of the posts. But I did two things to get around this problem. First, I only glued the {wo faces to one side piece at atime. ‘That way, instead of trying to make sure all four joiat lines were tight, 1 only hal to concentrate on two. (The other side piece was used as a spacer to keep everything square) The other thing I did was to use tape to help spot clamp the posts. Wherever you find a gap, simply close it up with one of the clamps, then wrapit tightwith some tape, as shown in the margin photo at left. like to use masking or packing tape fortis) The tapes plenty strong to hold the pieces together alter they've been pulled tight by the clamp, and with the tape in place, yo can reposition the clamp to ‘lose up another gap. za” END VIEW (= END VIEW , Woedsmith No. 145FINAL LENGTH, Once the two posts are assembled, they ean be cut to final length, Ifyou have a miter sw, this shoulin't be much of a prob- Jem, though with some smaller saws ‘you may have to cat the postsin two ‘steps, rotatingthem between passes. you have to rely on your table savy, crosscutting the long posts sa bitttickier. You wil need to atach a long auxiliary fence to the miter gauge andadd a stop block. And the crosseut will definitely have to be ‘made in two passes. ‘With the posts cut to length, there are just two details to work on before you can work on the trim pilates that cap the posts First, to fill in the grooves at the topané bottom ofthe poss, Ladéed {filler strips (C), as you can see in Fig. 1. [like tostart with the strips a hair proud so they can be sanded perfecily flush, asin Fig, Ye. This ‘would be nearly impossible to do if you waited to fil the erooves until after the headboard is assembled) Finally, you can rout a stopped chamfer on each edge of the posts, as shown in Fig.3. Todo this, drew stop lines end routed upto the lines. Then to even out the ends of the cchamfers, [did alittle sanding, but ‘more on that on page 23. TRIM PLATES. The top and bottom of the posts are capped with several layers of tyim plates, as you can see in Fig. 4. Fach plate is cut from thick stock and has a routed profile. No. 145 ars auLiNose TRIM PLATE 9220s Fh ‘Woodscrews First, six ogee trim plates (D) are cat 51 square (three for each post ‘The only thing you'l need to dowith these is rout a Roman ogee profile on the edges, asindicated in Fig. 4c. Routing a profile like this across ‘ead grain tends to ereate some chip- out. So Trout the ends first, using the fence and a push block to guide TWO QUICK ASSEMBLY TIPS Woodsmith the workpiece. That way, when the edges are routed, any chipout will be dleaned up by the bit ‘The second plates to make are the bullnose trim plates (). You'll only need two ofthese foreach post, and they're slightly larger (5%6") than the other plates. To rout this profile, used a 16" round-over bit and raised it $4" above the table, as ‘you can see in Fig. 4¢, ‘When all the plates have been routed and sanded smooth, you can begin to attach them to the post. Start by gluing up four pairs, center- ing one ogee plate on each bullnose plate. Then screw these pairs to the ends ofthe posts. At this point, you should still have two ogee plates left over. These will g0 on top of the posts to cover up the screws in the bullnose trim plates. But the trouble is keeping each plate centered and clamping it to the top of a post that’s nearly five feet tall To see a couple of tricks for getting around these problems, check out the box at lft.‘A To hold this head ard together, ratching ercoves «we cut on each piece. Then they’re connected with loose spines. Frame With the posts com- plete, you're ready to work on the frame, as shown in Fig. 5. Here, the too rail with its arched molding is prettyimpressive, but don't overlook the frameitself. As you can se in the photo, all the rails, stiles, and posts Ihave been assembled with grooves and loose splines. A slot cutter bitis allthat’s needed for this construction, which meansyou don't haveto wres tle with large pieces at your dill press o dail mortises) or your table saw o cuttenons). Allin all, ita pretty easy way to create alge frame, even ifthe joinery isn't exactly traitional TOP RAIL The fist part of the frame to work on is the arched top rail (@), asin Fig, 5.To eut the eurve in this piece, you'll need to start out with a 5/4 blank that’s 12" wide. (f you need to glue up two pieces to ‘get this with, you'll want to match the grain as closely as possible so the joint Ene doesn’t stand out.) While cutting the top rail to rough \width and final length, you might as well cut the bottom rail (G) to size at the seme time. (It’s the same length.) Thea you can set this rail aside while you work on the curves and add the molding to the top rail. CUTING CURVES. The curves shape of the top rail and molding isnt all that difficult to create. The first ‘thing youll need is a full-sized halt pattern (page . You can either draw one yourself, a8 I did on page 23, of you can purchase one from the Online Extras section on our web site. formed the curve on the sore ee ae grees Post. a ee eee ye (ia stack ‘a, Tor SECTION VIEW Post botiom edge oftherail using a band saw, drum saider, and a file, as deseribed in the box on page 16 Once you've cut the lower curve on the ral, the next step is to rout _rooves forthe spines that hold the frame together. I did this witha siot cutter bitin a handheld routes, ain Fig. 6. This way, the base of the router will follow the board even if there's some bowing, so the groove ‘ends up consistent width. ‘Gluesplies to nds aes wore: For mote on makin the areh-top rai a ‘moliina, see page 16 As you're routing the grooves, thereare three things toremenber Fics, the grooves on the rai’s ends are stopped so the splines won'tend up visbleon top ofthe rail. Second, the width of the grooves shoul match the grooves on the posts, To help with this, I made test spline that fit the post grooves. ‘The last thing to note is that these _grooves are centered onthe edge of the rail. I did this like I would ¢ FRONT SECTION VIEW ‘Woodsmithgroove on the table sav, by flipping the piece over between passes. Just sneak up on the size of the grooves ‘until they match the test spline. ‘CURVED MOLDING. After routing the grooves, you can add the blank for the curved molding (H), as in Figs. 5 and 5b. But ell this is described in detail in the article on page 16. STILES. With the top rail and mold- | inner stiles are ing complete, you can cut the outer LM ("thict stock stiles (I) to size, as in Fig. 5. The only thing to do here is rout grooves 6n all four edges. (These are ident- cal to those on the rail and posts.) ‘Then you can rout the sane groove ‘onthe upper edge of the bottom rail ‘The last step before assembly is tomake the splines (J) that connect the pieces. The stock here is planed to fit the grooves and then ripped Into V'-vide stips. Youll need quite few linear foot of splines, and you may aswell cntit all atonce, refer to the Materials List on page 14 ‘assemBlt. At this point, you can assemble the frame, as shown in Fig 7. 70 db this, [glued the splines to the onds of the stiles first (Fig. 7a). But note the splines are set in length so you can shape the top end 4" from the outside edge so there's to match the curve on the top rai. room later for the splines that con- To position the stile, ! measured nect the posts. Next you can clamp in 13" from the outside ofthe frame, the stiles between the rails and as in Fig. 8 Then Tset the stile in ‘make sure their edges and ends are _placeand marked its position on the flush and the frame is square. rails (Fig. 9). Now the edge of the wer sTiés. The next piecesto add rail can be traced on the stil. There are the inner stiles (K),as shown in isn't much of a carve here. In fact, I Fig. 8 They start out cut to rough foun¢ it easiest to make an angled SECOND: sue nner stiles place crosscut on the end of the stile and thea sand the top rail to match it, as. in Fig. 10. An easy way to help you see where to sand is to set the stile in place and mark the points where the rail touches, as in Fig. 10a. Be sure to sand lightly, checking the fit often. When these pieces fit tight, ou can tim the square end of each stile to final length and rout the grooves onall fouredges. “To attach the inner stiles to the frame, I glued short splines to the topand bottom rai, as you can see in Fig. 11. Then [ applied glueto the ‘splines and slid the stiles in place from the center out. You won't need to use clamps because the | sites wedge themselves in place. Finally, [added the poststo the frame, as shown in Fig. 11. The “2 problem here is that there’s noth ing t align these pieces — and they are heavy, So to align the grooves in the frame and posts, | raised the frame with some scrap blocks, asin Fig. 11a. And | added 1" spacers at the top of the posts and pulled the frame vp tightagainst them, ul& Unlike eadivional raised panels, the panels here don’t fir immo grooves in frame. Intead the panels lay on. op” of the frame and are screwed to the splines. Panels Now that the frame has been assem- bled, basically all that’s left is to add the three curved panels. As you can sevinthe photo here thepandls dont fit into grooves — they overlap the frame opening, with ordi- nary rabbets to help posi- tion them. To keep the panels in place, they're Simply serewed through some spines, as you can see in Fig. 16aon page 13. GLUE UP PANELS. The first thing to do is glue up three wide pancls from flick stock, as shown in Fig. 12. The panels are going to get alot of atten- tioa, so be sure to pay close attention to the sain pattern and color of the boards you're putting together: ‘You want each panel to end up look- ing like a single, wide board. ‘These panels should end up large ‘enough so they can be sized to over- hang the frame '4" on each edge. ‘The center panel (L) Istarted out with was over 24" wide and about 31!" tall (ong). The two outer panels (M) were over 11" wide and about 28" tall. (The exact length will depend on the curve ofthe top Ripaing the panelsto final widih s no problem. As for their length (height), at this point all you need to do is square up the bottom end. It was abil of astreich, bu I vas able to do this at my table saw. (Vou could also use a straightedge guide with a circular saw or with a hand- held router and a straight bit.) Once each pane! has been tim med on three edges fs tne tay out the top curves. Instead of trying Carey eet 7 gram ae Sr extepeatpas—/ BET PO, SEER NOTE: neh are cut to, ~~ Sage immed eure to use the half pattern I set the pan- els on the frame ane drew the curve off the mokding on the rail, as you can seein Fig. 19, First, four spacers were used to position the panels sidetoside. Then the bottom edges of the panels were fined up if" velow the frame openings, Now you can use @ compass to ‘race the shape of the curve. I set the point ofthe compass ageinst the square shoulder of the molding, as in Fig, 13. The important thing here isto make sure the line ends up 14" above the frame opening. With the top exiges of the panels drawn, they can be cut and sanded smooth. By now, youve shaped these curves enough tines that you ‘could almost do it blindfolded. And 2 He 0 fet bit ‘Woodsmith No.5there's no difference to the tech- nique here except that the panels are wider (and shorter) ROUTEDGES, With curveson the fop ‘of the panels cut, all thats left is to Youll need two ‘The 3" ogee fi- letbit thatyou used on the molding eatier anda" straight bt. GEE FILE. First, I routed the ogee ‘fillet profile on all he panels. As you ‘can 9ee in Fig. 14,1 did this using the bearing of the bit to guide the panel. Thats because you can't run the curved edges of the panels against the fence. And, you'l want to rout this profile In several light passes, sneaking up on the final height of the bit. Also, i's best to start with the ends ofthe panels. ABBE. The last thing to dois rout a shallow rabbet on the back side of each panel, These 'A"-dleep rabbets allow the panels to set into their frame openings. and thes're all 54!= wide so there's a 4" gap forthe pan- elsto expand freely (Fig. 16a) ‘This is all pretty straigatforward, Dut the trick with these rabbets is you can't use your router fence —at Teast not on the curved top edges. So to get around this, I used a straight bit with a rub arm, as shownin Fig. 15 and the box below. ‘The important thing & that the rub arm fis into the fillet (the square shoulder) thats rart of the profile, asin the drawing in the box below. FINISH PANELS & FRANE. Before the panels.can be mounted tothe frame, there are sill a couple things to do, First, you need fo glue some ‘more splines () into the grooves in the frame openings, as you can see shank hoe | in Fig, 16. And when drilling the shank holes for the screws, you'll want them oversized so the panels ccan expand and contract freely. Second, I applied finish to both the panels and the frame, (I used the same finish thats on the blanket chest, refer o page 34) By finishing the panels and frame separately, there won't be any unfinished edges of the frame that could get expose as the panels shrink later on. When finishing the panels, its important to finish both faces. Even. Cconterines RST. Giue splines 8 groove in frames though the back face will be cov- ered later (See page 14), the panels will be less likely to warp if there's a cost offinish on both faces. STALL PANELS. Whee the finish has dried, I screwed the panels to the splines with roundhead screws, as in Fig. 16. To make it easy to post tion these panels from the back, I ‘set them on "thick spacers, as ‘shown in Fig. 160. Ialso helps to draw centerlines on the back of each panel and frame opening so you can line everything up easly. PO aE Ue fence so the rub arm fi Pe shoulder of the profile. ‘When youneed toroutalong acurved END VIEW edge and can't use the bearing on the bit to guide the piece, you can build ‘a quick rub arm, ike the one shown here. Its rounded arm will guide straight and curved edges consis. tently. Forthe panels here, Isized the into the er stralghtble—— No. 45 WoodsmithBack Atthis point, the headboard is essen- tiay complete, But there are stil a couple od and ends to wrap up {Max To cover the fame openings in back, I added a 14" plywood back panel (N), as in Fig. 17. Like the frames earlier, it's sized to overhang the openings '" on each side. And to create the curve on top, I used the halfpattern that was wsed to draw the curve onthe toprail earlier. ‘ROUNT To BEDFRANE, Once the panel is screwed tothe frame, al that’sleft is to mount the headboard to a ‘metal bedlirame. As you can see in “To download tree Cuting Diagram for| Fig. 17b, I did this with threaded Hpeaueenszetcac:) inserts, hex head screws, and wash Miosteimth com | €'S: Have someone hold the head- board up and set the end of the frame against so you can mark the position ofthe mounting slots on the posts. Then you can lay the head- eat screw. ‘board down and install the inserts. ‘andwasner (Ladded two to each side) 51 MATERIALS & SUPPLIES A Post Faces (4) %x3%- 541. H Molding (1) 1x7310h - 56 B Post Sides (4) 1x2%4- 5419). 1 Outer Stiles (2) 1x3-24i> C Filler Strips YaxYe- 3210. 3 Splines ¥x1-32 hn tt D Ocee Trim Plates (6) %X5-5 _K Inver Stiles (2) 1x3%- 30 (ah. E Bullnose Trim Plates (4) 44x 5%-5% L CenterPanel(1) — 7%x24-31 19h. F Top Reil (1) 1x 12rgh -S6 MOuter Panels @) 4x 11 ~ 28 rah. G Bottom Rail (1) 1x8-56 N Back Panel (1) Yap. - 30x51 : ‘i | uf Hoxchead screw ‘na nasher sep Poe retie a io + (16) #8 x 214" Fh Woodscrews + (40) #8 x 1" Rh Woodscrews. (16) #6x 74" Rn Woodscrews (4) 4°-20 Threaded inserts (a) 4 (4) 1" Washers 202.1" Hex Head Screws a ae ety 1 ‘To modify this headboard for aking- size hed, I'stretched” the design so it's wider (and the curve slightiy taller) than the queensize version. But before you start, its a good idea ‘o measure your bedlframe to make sure itwillline wp with the posts. ‘The procedure here will be the same as before, but @ few dimen- rai | | ge | For sten-bystep | teeta for drawing flsized halfpatern, u See page 23 sions have changed. The blanks for the top and bottom rails (and mold- ing) Sart out the same wicth, but ‘now theyre 68 long. The curve is slightly different too. (Me halépat tern is provided below.) As for the panels, only the center panel is wiler. The two outer panelsare the Same as on the queen-size bed. | To One square = 7° [KINGSWED HALF PATTERN SS = ore iat age ‘Woodsmith ‘Te purchase ¢ tiled, ful-sized hallpettern for this headboard (gato: Nocdsrth com, No. 145STRAIGHT- Top HEADBOARD As elegant as the arched molding looks on the headboard, removing the curves from the top rail and molding really makes the construction straightforward. Reve the headboard the rail only needs to be 614"- with a straight top rail and _ wide to start off with. (I?ll end molding didn'ttake alot ofwork. up 6” wide.) And of course, However, when you stertto build there’s no curve to lay out and te headboard without the curalong thebouomedge. curves, you realize just how As for the molding, I til much this design modification started out with a fairly wide simplifies the procedure. blank (about 6"). This way, ‘Actually, the overall proce- after safely routing the ogee fi- dure doesn't really change that _ let profile on one edge, | could much. You sill start out by rip it 194" wide and sill use the can see in Fig. 1, the stiles can but with a straight top rail, cut building the two posts, and cut off piece to makethestiles. all be cut to the same length. _ ting the panels to finished size they're sized exactly the same Now the top rail and molding (They're still different widths, can be done much more as before (refer to page 8). can be glued together. (If you as before.) This means there’s quickly. Again, there aren't any With the posts built, the first don’t have enough clamps, you no custom fitting that needs to curves, and all three panels are thing todo on the frame is cat could make both blanks abit be done to the inner stiles. the same height dengtl). @ _ 82315 0 sve, as shown in witer ant then serew them Then when asvembiig the Even te4" plywood backs Fig. 1. The bottom rail (G) together through the waste frame, you can work with all more straightforward. Its sim doesn't change at al, but the section.) And when the glue is the rails and stiles st one time ply cut to overlap the frame top rail (F) certainly does. I dry, this rail assembly can be or glue itup in two stages. ‘opening and screwed in place, stil cut it oversized s0 the top ripped to nal width 6”). With the frame gluedup and As you can see, this head: ‘edge could be cleaned up after ‘To complete the frame, all the posts added, you're ready board is a bit easier 10 build the molding was added later. that’sleftis to add the outer @ to work on the panels. You still than the curved one —and it’s Bur for the straight top version, and inner stiles (K). Butas you have wide panels to glue up, _alllan impressive project. BACK easiest") Be in cal i moons Fak Tole meltig | ne ap i No. 145 Woodsmith ip, 15WOODWORKING TECHNIQUE ARCHED MOLDING If “straight and square” has become routine, here’s a new twist: Build a curved rail — and add some matching arched molding. lostof the time, the“goa!”in wood- walk you through the process used _ For the headboard, I started with working is to build a project as for the toprailon the headboard. To the toprailblank, as in Fig. L atright. straight and square as possible. So see how it’s applied w the book- It was cut co final length but was left ieanice change ofpace when you're ends, reler to page 20. Between the extra wide (12"). And before the able to build aproject thathascurves two projects. you'll ind all the tech- joinery could be cut, [ had to create aspartofits design. Arched molding niques you need forapplying arched _ the curve on its bottom edge. (ike the molding on the heatboard molding to your owa projects. ‘To create the large curve on this and the bookendsin this issue) sone OVERSIZED ALAWK. Ihe place tostart rail, you'll need a half pattern. It's use of curves that’s certainly eye- Is with the “base” piece the molding not hiard to draw this curve yourself catching —and its not asdifiicutto will be glued to, It may bea rail, 8 (refer to page 23), but yeu can also achieve as you might think, ‘on the beadboard, or a body, as on purchase a full-size half pattern on Even though the final results look the bookends. This piece should ourweb site (ee the box on page 7). of Eee etnete nt scenes oto asks the same question: “How did you ilo #2” You've gotto amit, the answer ist exactly obvious. Even though you know the top hasn't been literally beat into its curved shape, there aren't many clues Uhat might suggest how it’s done. One of the tricks is to work with oversized pieces Afier alte shaping, some molding pieces are mitered to wrap around the body (which is also oversized). Then you begin the process of ‘cutting and sanding the curve on the top. And to hide the evidence, a piece of veneer is simply glued to the top. It's a fairly straightforward process for creating a pretty impressive detail FINISHING OPTIONS. From the start, 1 decided to paint these bookends. And as you foe ‘can sce in the photos, soieek there's more than one ibe Banks way to do this. Your *) choice of paint may affect the materials ‘you use, 0 its a good Jdea to take a look at the finishing article on page 22 before get ting started. This project isa great Voor. Regardless of one for trying a faux the finish youuse, Pd finish, see page 22 aeoe 205 55 EPS WS So SOIOUS MATERIALS & SUPPLIES | A BosyBianks(10)" %ube-axs/aren. | B Bases @) tex Ale 8% © Curved Molding (4) Yas Ap rah oe D Straight Molding (2) Vex Ma-5 rah. oF ite ee + (2) 6x 114" Fh Woodscrews e OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 66H xa Wx 4%4°D (Q) Cherry Veneer (4is" x 5°) auat i (2)Nor Tape (4i4" x43") 18 ‘Woodsmith No. 45recommend 3" MDF for the body, as shown in Fig. 1. This isa't just because MDF is cheaper — it’s also @ rvore stare, Changes in humidity aren't going to cause it to expand and contract overtim> and workthe ‘molding joints loose, Pus, MDF pro- vides a good surface for paint ‘The body starts out as five body ‘blonks (A) that are glued together. Fig. 1 shows the finalize, but you'l ‘want the rough blanks a bit larger. (Mine were 4" 814") After the elue dries, the body can be ripped to width (%4"), but it should be left Jong (#) untilthe molding isadded. Trimming the body is easier sad than done. It too large for a single pass atthe table saw (and may even be too big to erosscut with some miter saws). So you'll need to make two passes, as shown in Fig. 2 at right. Then to remove any shoul ders or saw marks, you might want todo alittle sanding. I did this with some adhesive-backed sandpaper placed ona flat surface (ike a table ‘saw), a8 Shown in the margin photo. r ) ‘ROUT FLUTES. When the body is cut to size, all that’s lefts to rout some flutes on the front edge. I did this with a 5é"dia, core box bit at the router table, as in Fig. 3, You don't even need to get out your ruler to set the fence. Justcenter the biton a joint line and make two pasces, flip ping the body end for end between passes. Then reset the fence and rout the other pair of utes. BASE. At this point, the body is done, and you're ready ‘© work on the hase (Fig. 1). Mine is 14" thick. cherry, butif you're going to paint the entire bookend, then you can use almost any 14" hick hardwood. (a recommend you avoid “open grain” woods like oak and ash. You ‘an'tpaint over them as smoothly as, you can “fine grain” woods like ‘cherry, maple, and poplar) ‘The buse (B) is cat to extend past the body 14" on the froat and sides, Ifyou're not going to paint the base, you'll want to make note of its grain irection, as shown in Fig. 1.1 ori- ented the piece this way so it would ‘match the grain of the top veneer that’s added later. SOUTPROFILEThe base is routed on three sides. And I did this with a “Classical Cove & Beat!” bit (refer to page 3 for sources). But you could also use a Roman ogee bit, asshown in the margin at right. To orient the profile correctly, the base piece needs to stand on edge when rout- ing, asin Fig. 4. 1 tock light passes to avoid chipout, sneaking up on the final depth of the cut by adjusting the fence to expose more ofthe bit. Finally, you can screw the base to the body so the back edges are flush, as in Fig 5. But don't use any ‘glue. The bookends wil be easier to finish ityou c SIDE SECTION VIEW No. M5 ‘Woodsmith Adhesive-backed sandpaper on a table saw males afl surface for sanding the exls of the body blank BASE PROFILE OPTION roe A Youdon'thave to we the classical cove end bead pro- fil I hose forthe base end molaing ‘The profile shou here isa lle more ‘eomaron and will work just as wel 1& If you've making multiple sets of bookends, you ‘may wantto make 4 cardboard tem- late for acing the crewed profile ‘om the moldings. Molding & Veneer ‘Now that the body and base are built, you're ready toadd the molding and the veneer to the top. As you can see in Fig. 6, the molding starts out as three large pieces. They're mitered and glued to the body, and the whole assembly is cut to shape. ‘The veneer covers the joint lines and mr. And i actually one ofthe casier parts of the bookends. The grain is oriented so the veneer lays down ricely, And the trimming can be done with asanding block. ‘MOLDING tLAMIS. The fist thing to do is cut "shies blanks for the molding, e shown in Fig. 6. The curved molding (C) and straight molding (D) are oversized in both length and width. (Note that the curved pieces are 414" wide to start out. The straight piece is 41" wide.) ‘AUATE CURVES. The next thing to-do is lay out the curve on one of the curved molding blanks. To help with this, the pattern on the next page can be photocopied at 100% and cut out. But ifyou plan to build more than one set of bookends, you may want to make a more durable posterboard template, as you can seein the photo in the left margin. With one of the pieces laid out, I taped the two curved molding blanks together, using carpet tape, as in Fig. 7. This way, their profiles would end up exactly the same. Cutting the curves was a quick job with the band savr. Just stay to the waste side of the lay out line. Then the saw mers can be removed and the profile fine-tuned by doing a lit- tle sanding, (I used a drum sander.) Moti Soin wiokos Profile matches ‘base profile Veneer added ‘ater curve cutend sanded Yh crests nema ROUT PEOFIIE. Now the curves you just cut will get a routed profile, using the same bit that was used on the base. But as you can see in Fig. 8,this time the pieces have to lay fla ‘on the table so you can use the bear {ng on the bit to guide the curved ‘edges. And to make sure the bearing hhad something fo ride against, Heft thepiieces taped together (Fig. 8a) ‘The straight molding also gets this same profile. This time, though, T used my router table fence 10 guide the piece across the bit. nce the profiles are routed, you can miter the molding pieces so END viEW ‘lade ited me 0 Woodsmith No. M5they wrap around the body. For all the pieces, the blade is tilted 45° and Set compass an ausiliary fence and stop block “‘pereate provide support, 2s in Fig 9 oe started with the curved molding. ‘They end up mirrored images of each other, so you can't cut them oth the same way. The square edge of one piece (the left) simply resis against the auxiliary feace, as in Fig. 9. But the other piece (the right) will have to be lipped around so its curved edge is against the fence (Fig. 1). Soto keep this piece draw a parallel ine %4" up from the square to the fence, I taped it to a bottom edge, as shown in Fig. 12. hardboard sled first and then flipped ‘Then you can cat the curve on the itaround to make the cut. band saw (Fig. 13). But den't force When the two curved pieces wore the cut — this is a pretty thick ‘mitered, I clamped them in place so block, and you don't want the blade they lined up 3%4" from the bottom — to wander asit's cutting. of the body, as indicated in Fig. 11. Since the top face of the bookend ‘The top edigesof the moldingpieces is too large for a drum sander, and body may not line up, but that smoothing it takes a little elbow doesn’t matter — its going to get grease (but not much else), used a ccut away soon anyway. The impor- regular, lat sanding block to work tant thing is that the bottom edges _ on the outside curve, For the inside of all the pieces align. curve, you'll need a rounded sand- Now you can miter the straight ing block. The important thing is ASyowlay the veneer down, make molding t fit between the curved that you end up with a smooth, flat surcits grain runsfrom curved edge pieces, as you can see in Fig. 11. surfice for applying the veneer, _to curved edge (Fig. 1d). This way, (Remember that your focus should APPLY VENEER. As you can see in itllalmostform itselfto the carves. beon the bottom ¥f" ofthe molding.) Fig, 14, a small piece of veneer will ‘Trimming the veneer isn'ta prob- ‘Then with all the molding pieces hide the MDF and the joint lines on lem either. In fact, you could do the mitered to length, you can go ahead top of each bookend. I used solid- entire thing with a sanding block, and glue them to the bod wood veneer here (not pressure though I trimmed just the curved SHAPE TOP. At this point, you're sensitive or paper-backed). And to edges this way. For the straight ready io shape the top of the book- glue it down, Iused a geHformula ones, | used a sharp utility knife. end. It should match the curved contact cement. (Yellow or white ‘Then [finished the project (see the edge of the molding, which is easy glue can work its way through the tips on page 22) and added the non- ‘enough to do, Just set a compass to veneer and affect the finish) slip tape in the photo below. TEMPLATE FOR TOP CURVE Pr Peston pattem 1 fom eae nd of chrved molding ban SEpratwon gegen Position flat ‘nih backede a To prevent the bookends from sliding under a the weigh of books, | adled adhesive -asked NOTE Rrecsey SOIR: non-slip tape that’s made for sai treads No.5 ‘Woodsmith aFINISHING TECHNIQUE right? Just shake, point, ‘and spray. Butityouveever cended up with runs orace dentally sanded down to bare wood, you know that there's more to a smooth, corsistent spray firish than just pointing a can in the right direction. Here are five quick tps” to consider thenext time you're finish {ng with spray paint. 1. REMOVE PARTS. Wher fever you can, remove 4 part (ike a door or top) beiore you start to paint Fat surfaces are easier to cover evenly than inside comers. Just don't forget to cover any surfaces that need to be glued later. 2 youtinkie ‘came out of a can — a spray takes great _peintcan,They’re socasy you deal of artisic tal really should give them airy ent to do faux finishing, you Since the top was being might want to take a look at painted on these bookends, I these bookends Bothfinishes didn’t take the time to add On the bookends Iwas able to unscrew the base, ‘which meant one less area that needed to be masked 2. purty Hise. Don't be fooled into thinking a coat of paint is going to hide scratches or dents. The uniform color of paint on a fat, smooth surface wil actually “telegraph these blemishes. So don't rush the sanding process. I didn't end up with any scratches or dents on the bookends. [FT had, I would have used autometive glazing and spot putty — it doesnt shrink: ‘3. CHOOSE THE RIGHT PAINT, You have two choices when using spray paint aT Cet dae eV ‘Woodsmith veneer. Instea, Leuta dowel in half and plugged the open ings left by the cove bit, as shown in the drawing. (A fi ‘le putty can he used to fill in ‘any gaps in the opening.) After giving the bookends ‘couple coats of primer, the ‘aux finishes ean be applied (or sources, see page 35.) ‘The crackle finishat lefts the easiest You simply spray ona base coat and then a erackle ‘coat. The size ofthe crackle ‘can even be adjusted by how heavy a coat you spray on. ‘The stonetextured finish at right required a little modifi cationto get the best resus. A The wp and base ofthe boo endl were given a clear top coat and chen mesked off. But be stv to give the finish tHeney of time to dry befere applying he ape enamel and lacquer. Enamel is more durable, and Pll use it ifa project is going to be handled or sit outdoors. But enamel is Jess convenient to work with. You have to recoat within one hour or wait several days. For the bookends, I chose lacquer Decause I eould apply 2 lot of coats quickly 4, PROTECI TRE CORNERS. Anytime you're sancing primer or paint, try to Textured Stone. Keeping the textureof ths frish from being tooheay reqitedan evra step, After priming the bookend, | ‘ped off the body andpainted tho top and bottom black. Then {sprayed on a verylight coat of the black, textured finish. ‘Next, you can mask off the top and bottom and apply the gray, textured fis. avoid the comers ofa proj- ect. You can cut through 1 the wood a lot quicker slong an edge because it’s easy to “oll over” the cor ner and apply more pres- surealong that point. 55, APPLY A GEAR COAT. After T've applied several coats of paint, [like to fol low up with three or four layers of a clear coat. It simply adds to the protec- tion and can even provide dept to the finish, No. 145Tips FroM Our Sxop © Suopr NOTES Laying Out a Symmetrical Curve One ofthe challengesof the Arch Top Heaiboard (page ‘6islaving outalage.sym- ‘metrical curve and having: itlook just right. The easi- ‘estway todo thisistodraw lal pattern on paper fist. ‘The halfpattern malees get tinea symmetrical finished piece automatic. All you have to dois ip itover and trace a mirror image, To make the pattern, I Tid out a 1" grid on a piece of paper atleast half the sizeof the final curve. Then transfer the curve from the pattern on page? e@ tothe grid, The next thing todo is makea hardboard template. I mounted the hhalfpattern to a piece of hardboard with spray adhesive. Then it can be ‘cut out on the band saw, asin Fig 1. You'll want cu to the waste side so it can be sanded smooth on the drum sander. Now that the pattern’s ready, youcan layit out on the workpiece, asin Fig. 2. But before you start cut- ting, take a step back and lock at the entire curve. If ‘you notice any flat spots or angles, youll want to adjust the template. Once you're satisfied, you can begin cutting. 1 Plywood Shadow Line Ifyou don't plan on stain- ing the cherry Paneled Blanket Chest (page 26) you'll be able to see the inner veneers of the ply- ‘wood panel in the shadow line. These exposed plies are lighter and look unfin- ished, as in the let photo. To give it a “finished” look, Treated 2 darker, more distinct shadow line, as you see in the far right photo, This is easy to do Chamfer Clean-up ‘When you rout a stopped chan fer itsendisn’ symmetrical. you take @ look atthe left workpiece nthephoto, you can see that one Side ends up abit‘lat" Bat here's quick solution. Smply wrap sand- @ vaveraromnda aia. doweland carefully sand the end, as shown inFig.1. won't takemuch t get Doth sides looking the same, No. 145 with a brown permanent marker. But you'll need to do it before attaching the hardwood edging, By the way,you can't do this with stain (or a stain tic). The stain will wick up the edges of the ply- ‘wood and cause surface streaking. And even ifyou use a marker lla good idea to test it on a scrap piece of plywood first just to be safe, 0 3 A hoit-pettern mekesit cosy to El Se A An unfinished shadow A When the shadow line is line exposes the lighter stained dasker, the effect is more dramatic. Woodsmith |< Stopped chars ers lok “fla as inthe loft workpiece. S they need 10 sanded w even ‘ut the end, ike one in the rahe workpieceWOODWORKIN TECHNIQUE INSTALLING A HALF-MortIsE LOCK the blanket chest (paze 26), I real- ized there are a lot of options and models to choose from. But when it comes right down to pocket cut in the front edge of the chest. The trouble is they can be di ficult to install once the case is assembled. That’s why I chose a look for when choosing a lock is the location of the keyhole on the out- (Gop to bottom) on the top rail of the chest, (Most hardware suppliers list the distance from the top edge of the lock to the keyhole pin.) the height (depth) of the lock. If 4 The lock body is fere with the panel. Before building rmontsed into the any piece that requires a lock, its a inside ofthe chest. good idea to have the lock in hand. be any surprises. Pace LOCK PARTS. The lock set that I cchose is made up of two parts: the lock body and the lock link. The lock body is recessed in the inside edge of dhe case, while the link gets mortised into the lid. ‘As yon can see in the exploded view above, the lock is installed in a stepped mortise. There's a shallow mortise that wraps around the inside back edge for the plate uid Measure for a. ling eyo ese Link (back) and up over the top ofthe rail for the selvedge (top) of the lock. ‘Then there's a deeper mortise, which provides clearance for the cup (or body) of the lock, ‘The link gets mortised into the lid, Here, two tabs stick out from the link and are grabbed by the lock when the key s turned. ‘To complete the lock, a key its ‘through a small hole drilled in the ar rahe block to Z| “ronter fs ic | SSiase i ‘NOTE: Serchest ‘reat ‘a sehrege mortise leo ee spacers and cout themartise using a straight bit. Clean up the edges with a chisel Bs Tum the chest an its front and trace the — @@y Mark and rout a stepped mortise for the cup, again using spacers to support the routes. The mortise should be long ‘enough for the lock tosit lush with the top. Woodsmith Fip the chest upright and trace the out- ine ofthe top of the lock on the case. Clamp 2 rabbeted support biock to the top and rout the selvedge mortio. No. 145front of the case. And anescutcheon is mounted on the outside of the cchestto protect the keyhole ‘A half mortise lock installs in just afew steps. And all ittakes is carefl layout and a few common tools. 0ck BoD¥. The lock is mortised ‘lush to the inside ofthe chest. Start by marking a centerline on the top of the chest front. Then hold the lock in place with the keyhole on the centerline and trace the outline on the inside ofthe case. PLATE. To rout a stallow mortise for the plate of the lock, I firs: removed the id and flipped the chest onits front Shop Tip: On projects where Tl be removing and attaching the lid several times, Ive found that the soft brass screws stip out or break off. To avoid this, [use steel screws until the installation is complete and then replace the brass serews. To make a wide suriace for the router, Lattached some hardboard spacers to the rail Gtep 1). Then I routed the mortise with a 47 ‘aight bit, staying just inside the layout lines. For a tight ft, [cleaned up the edges with a chise ‘The next mortise youll rout for the cup. What you're looking for here s thatthe lock should sit fush with the top and back of the chest. So I routed the mortise a longer and deeper than the cup, as you can see in Step 2. SHLVEDGE. With the stepped mor- tises routed, you can cut the ‘rea sight S er fer ‘aught Press the lock into the mortseto ‘mark keyhole location (or meas- ture from top to center of the pin). Drill the hole from the inside. selvedge mortise. ToGo this, fp the chest upright and traee the outline of the top of the lock on the case. ‘Again, youll need to clamp a sup- port block to the top, 2s in Step 3. routed a smal rabbet in the block so the top molding would fit inside) CUTEHEON. At tis point, I turned my attention to drilling the keyhole and installing the escutcheon, To mark the keyhole on the chest, press the lock into the mortise, A pin sticking out from the keyhole in the lock marks where to dill. Ifthe pin doesn’t stick out past the cup, measure from the top ofthe lock to the pin, as shown in detail ‘ain the exploded viewat let, Fle 2 slot in the bottom of the Keyhole for the key bit. Drill pilot ‘holes for the pins but wait to attach the escutcheon until after finishing. To prevent tearout, clamp a piece ‘ofccrap to the frent of the chest and drill the hole from the inside, as in Step 4. Then file a slot for the bit of the key Step 5). I's a good idea to test the fit by screwing the lock in place and locking and unlocking it, adjusting thehole as necessary. Uk, Now you're ready to attach ‘the link to the lid The easiest way to ‘mark the link mortise isto secure it Jn the lock and close the lid. Small, tabs in the link dent the fi, allowing ‘you tolftthe id and trace the link, as in Step 7. After rout ing the mortise (Step 8), screw the link in place. All ‘that’sleftis to reattach the id. 1 Reattach the ld. Fasten the lik in the lock and press lid down. Pacement tabs will creete dents for marking and matusing the Fd. No. 145 ‘After removing the lid from the chest, set the link in the dents and trace the outline on the lid with a sharp pencil or marking knife ‘Woodsmith Drilla starter hole for the router it and rout the mortise, Then ‘clean up the mortse witha chiseland screw the link in place, A The esewechoon sides the ke and protects the Ieyhole from Boy. A The ink plae is mortised flies with the terface of the ld Botiom.Pals NmUON a NO)ceHN is all of the detail — the scu tion to this pancled bl aed i iso vipa ioe racket feet, the leyered molding at thebas, the chamfered corners, the balance of the molded panels and the ravers, and the bullnoselidwithits arrow shadow line. All these el ments combine to give this piece a ly impressive, graceful look. all the details intimi This project isn’t real difficult to build. The chest ed to partner with the be de chest in Woodsmith: No. 1 pretty straightiorwar lot of the interest to the look tricky, but they're just made with afew The only thing that could be nall challenge are the bracket feet. But don't worry if you've never niade bracket feet. You can find easy instructions in Woodsmith No. 13 or they can be downloaded for free. Or the “ogee” bese pictured on page Bt makes a gre ‘Woodsmith PANELED HLA oO cea Be rrgnere ihalaleaae ig CaneDicoree Sa ey but with two drawers ane a i deep well, i provides plenty of versatile stonage spaceConstruction Details Goin sees Gaiesien ar Nore foe frame e red wth su hd gracvee a NOTE Bae mang nat tides proc >, ino case Bracket feat are setproud of he base rome No. 14s chest eck ‘norised serene tongues and groves Bros mantis "ino is Spacer sips ore ‘aud and spewed ‘obotomdviser pose me is ge! ‘and srevied nerside of cose - Halling coveted Sewer \ | aacxer root TOP SIDE SECTION VIEW Bes ie Ws Roman ogee ‘profile — Woodemithwre fengue on front ane ck edges Case & Face Frames I sarted with the basics, a simple ply- ‘wood case, and then tacked the pan cled face frames. The case isjusttwo 344" plywood sides that are joined by a couple dividers. And I decided to put a tongue on the front and back edigesof the sidesto make iteasier to add the face frame later on (Figs. 1 and 4). The face frames are made to. hold 14" plywood panels, with open- ings in the front for drawers. PLYWOOD CASE. The first thing I did was cut the two case sides (A) to size trom %4" cherry plywood. Now as you can see in Fig. 1,there are a pair ‘ofdadoesin each side that hold the 34" plywood dividers. What I like to NOTE: Dales are sized pbarood Badoesin case sideshott aides NOTE: Drawer runners cnndenoe epliwocd ——_peare ease aberBled do when cutting dates for plywood fs to use a narrower dado bladle. (L used a S¢"wide blade here.) Then I can sneak up on the width of the cat to get aperiectfit (Fig. 2a). Next, I used the dado blade buried in an auxiliary fence to cat the centered '%'.wide tongues on the front and back edges of the sides, as shown in Figs 3 and 3a DIVIDERS. When the sides are com pleted, you can cut the two dividers (B)to size. They're cut tolength so that when the sides and dividers are put together the overall measure- ment is 43" Fig, 1b shows how they should ft front to back, Aastitory fence AA SLY SS Za Woodsmith Phastiester support rawortiser Tongue o Cased At this point the joinery has been cut, but before assembling the case, the bottom divider needs a litle ‘work. In Fig. you'll notice that the two drazer renners(C) are added to this divider. These runners will ‘work with guideson the drawer bot: toms) I set the runners in dadoes to ‘keep them aligned, which will save e@ you some work when fitting the drawers later Also, if you knodk a chamfer on the ends of the runners, the drawers will slide into the case more easy ig. 12). And before you assemble the case, youll need to drill the Ye! holes in the bottom divider for the stem bumpers that support the drawers. (Vou can't do this lter) ASSEMBLY. Now the plywood case is ready for glue and clamps. This should gopretty smeothiy-The only thing I watched for was that the dividers were fush along the sides ig. 1b). And then after applying the Camps, you probably want 10 take a quick cornerto- corner meas: turement t check for square PANILED FACE FRAMES, Once you have the plywood case assembled, you can go to work on the paneled ace frames, zs shown in Fig. 4. The ‘idea here is to size thove frames to fit the case. All this takes isa litle careful measuring. Ané since te @ {wo face frames are identical except for the draver openings, you've already got step upon his No.145‘NOTE: grooves dresed the FRONT FRAME. [started on the front frame by cutting the comer stiles ), rails (E), upper stiles (F) and the lower sile (G) to size from 4" stock. (The cornersstiles are wider) GROVES. After the frame pieces are cutto size, you can cut the cen- tered grooves sized to hold the 1" @} 924 panes, Just run your pieces through the table sav, fip- ping them endfor-end. You might wonder about the grooves in the drawer openings, but just go ahead and cut ulllength grooves onal tie pleces. Youll put in some llr strips later on. (But Tdi skip the grooves ‘om the front lower stile) TAIONS. Next [cut stub tenons on the rails and the inside stiles (Fig. 4a). To get a solid frame, these tenons should it snug in the ‘grooves, 9 just sncalcup on them. ‘UM FRAME. With all the tenons cut, I sized the 14" plywood panels GH, D and then just dry fit and clamped the whole frame. Separate “ofie” reference Tors for let and ‘ormersuien No.u45 NOTE sls Growse cut on shouderta shoulder "side face of weranaaie yy comer stles je ‘Al frame pieces are i" fick Stub tenor At this point [took advantage of the clamped up frame to ft the filler strips (K) around the drawer open: ings (Fig. 4). Just make sure the lower stile is Centered before you cut the long strips, but there's no need to giue them in yet ‘Then used the clamped frame to locate the grooves in the corner stles that will match the tongues on the case sides (Fig. 4b) If you just turn the ease on its back and lay the frame on top, you can use the tongues to mark where you want to cut the grooves, With the frame ayart, it's easy to complete this. ‘iameets. The last thing to do before gluing upthe frame is torout the stopped chamfers, as shown in Fig. 5a. When you look closely, you'll see that the top and bottom ‘end points of the chamiers are dif Woodsmith \ stub tenors ferent. Also, the left and right sides are mirror images. Don't worry, this Just means that you'll need to use a different act of “offset” reference marks on the fence for each stile (Fig. 5). After the chamfers are routed, the ends of the cuts need a little clean-up, s shown on page 23. ‘BkcK AE, The back frame is the same thingall over agein, except for the wo lower plywood panels Q) ‘ASE & FRAME ASSENBIT. When both frames are complete, they can be ‘ued to the case. Ladéed one frame at a time, starting with the front frame 20 I could camp through the drawer openings, as shown in Fig. 6 ‘Then when the back frame was in place, I glued in the filler strips andbulnose, @ ee | {SD worsen me ee ites 2, Ste Beck eet FRAME 3. Bie) "Ue sractes feet ore NOTE: Bae fame dluedand screwed Sra feet re hash iS base rome nth Back tence Base With the case completed, I turned my attention to the lower part of the Chest. This just involves making and installing some spacers, the base frame, and the bracket feet. SPACERS, The first thing you want to dois add the bottom spacers (L) that help support the base frame. They're cut from®thick stock and then glued and screwed to the bot tom divider as shown in Fig. 7b. BASE FRAME, Now the case is ready for the base frame. There's really not much to it. But as you can see in DEV Ta aa ta ‘The graceful bracket feet help give per to shape them, ‘ut the “ogee” base on page ou “Sassoon a END view ibbie away waste BASERAME Space! strips Grow ‘Theseare the same feet used thechestits really distinctivelok. for the “Bedside Chest” in And when youmaie them, you'll Woodsmaith No, 139. ‘This issue find it isn'tnearly as bard as you has stepby-step instructions on. mightthink Asthe figures below how to make bracket feet. Or if show, there's no carving involved. you have internet access, the Tjustused a table saw, aband saw, article can be downloaded. Ifyou a block plane, and some sandpa- want less of a challenge, check In multiple passes Semanstocured feet see page 5 ate glued and sees’. (B. wore: 3950 fame ov “snd ees NOTE: Front and back ‘racket foot Figs. 7 and 7b, it does provide a solid “foundation” for the feet and adds another nice layer of deta ‘To get started, [ripped blanks for the base frame front (M), sides (N), and bact (0) to finished width from 54 stock. Then the front and two sides get *bulinosed” using a ¥4" round-over bit set to cut only %" deep, as shown in Fig. 7a. Now all there isto do is miter the front and two sides to fit. Figs. 7 and 7b show what you want —a 1" over: hang oa the front and sides and a flush fit at the back. Once this was done, it worked well for me to just glue and screw the pieces to the ‘case one at a time, starting at the front. The back piece is added last BRACKET FEET, Now you can take on the “challenge” of the bracket feet. But you shoulda’t be intimidated, It’s not hard (see box below). When the feet are completed, ou just attach them with counterbored screws and gue. Fig. 7b shows how they ft —with the rounded part 34" proud of the base frame. For a limited lime, you can dowhioad’a fee pattern anda step-by-step aicle now to ake your own braciet fect at ‘woodsmih.com CuttO waste se ofline ‘Woodsmith No.5Moldings ‘With the base frame and feet added, the case is taking shape. Making and installing the moldings around the top. the boton, ard te ont panels will really dress it up. These mold- ings lok a bit completed, but all you need to make them are a couple of “special profile” router bits and alit- tle time at the outer table ‘AP ESE NOLING. T decied to work on the base molding (P) and the eap malding (Q) frst Since the only real difference between the two moldings is their width, 1 could take a little shortcut. As you can see tn Fig. 94, T made both moldings fee nae ae Ce ‘You can get started by cutting a 3Mawide piece of %4''-thick stock to the length that you'll need. Then it's just a matter of routing the profile on both aldes with sallow passes (Figs. 9 and Ga). To complete the moldings, just cut them to width on the table saw. (Note that it’s safer to -cutthe narrow molding first.) INSTALLATION. When I had the mold- ings in hand, 1 fit the base molding first. As Figs. 8 and 8a show, it’s just mitered to fit around the front and sides — flush with the back — and then giued and nailed in place. (I like to use a brad nailer for this.) Nex! eames te tap mcldlag “Take a look at Fig. 8 to soe how i fits — sitting on the top edge of the case and overhanging on both sides. Tf you just think back to the base frame, you'll get the idea on the instalion, When the pieces have bean cto adding thom one ta time makes it a pretty simple job. T just made sure the side pieces fit flush to the back edge of the case and all the pieces had an even ie" overhang on the inside (Fig. 8). ‘Ther’ ove lat hing, The op ech (fin betieen the sien over hanging only on the inside (Fig. 84). PANEL MOLDING. I added some panel molding to complement the drawer fais Wher joule ate tac ids Yoel Von cok aed make. But I took my time fitting it. It’s one of the focal points of the chest, so you want it to look good. ‘And ith jst gue to hold the tit needs tobe tight Cg. 8). Nous ‘Nal mclling Fis orn Inside of frame openings Shs 5 = ove Cap and base a eee, 1" Roman fom single blank. co __te tp edgeor ase butt pincat backer one @ mn P Gop moldings aed) moLoiNG OGEE PANEL MOLDING Se ep Feed ith waste t= | fe ITT tro Bver | fete ir we 6 | eT ‘once eno view | old ‘Set the bit low and hold sé Now by rang the bitin the blank uprightageinst dm steps, you can gradually roundovess of the molding. ng with shellovr passes. Finally cut the molding to width on the table the fence to rout the top routthefullface ofthemod- savy with the waste between the blade and the fence. Woodsmith 31prustisten back corners oferowe| Se Drawers ‘When the case was completed, | decided to work on the dravvers next. As you can see in Fig. 10, they're pretty standard, The only thing a lit te unique are the slotted guides atacled to the bottoms (Fig. 12) DOVETALS. To start on the drawers, first cut the drawer sides (T) and the fronts and backs (U) to size from ¥p" ‘maple. (I gave the drawers a Vis! clearance on all sides) ‘After Thad all the pieces cut to site, Iwent to work on the balEblind davetals with the dovetail Once the dovetails are routed, you can cut the grooves for the drawer bottoms, To keep the bot toms from rattling, 1 sized the grooves to the JA" plywood I was using. Also remember that you'll neath the bottoms (Fig. 12). Now I thought alittle bit ahead and drilled the mounting holes for the false fronts, At this pointall thats lettisto cut the bottoms (V3 to size and gic ‘GUIDES, The next step is to make and install the wood drawer guides. There's nothing difficult here, but you clo want to take a litle care with, thisso the drawers will slide easily started by eating the guide (W) blanks to width and length from Sf!" maple Fig. 12). Next, youll want to cut the centered groove carefilly. A Tong push block makes this job alot safer (Fig, 11). The goal is for the il ext Hie st ‘guides to slide casily on the runners Dut without too much play. With the guides made, you'll still ‘need to cut an oversized notch at the back of the drawers to make this ‘system’ work (Fig. 12a). And then before they're fit, [also lke to mark my drawers (left and right). Now you can use some carpet tape to hold the guides while you test the ft ofthe drawers in their openings. FRONTS. After the guides are fitand ‘ghied in place, there're just a couple things lef. The false fronts (0 need tobe added to the drawers. Butfirst they geta i" ogee fillet (Fig. 10a). Finally, add the stops (¥) and the stem bumpers (Fig. 10). The pulls are installed after the finish. msi OTE Tes fit dates betore = brawer @.__y ~ sick face ame 32 No.145Z rama idee soa ack orig iss a with back of case Sab twice ee oe —— fa Butnose on vrontand hides of rome Ca ae =) Fa a i ee es | i 5; Ae | Lid Building the lid will “top” offthechest. a 1/" centered groove to match the _ piece. Gust measure from botiom of Ir'sjusta, wood frame that cap- tongue on the lid panel. By this groove to bottom of groove.) tures a plywood panel with a simple point you know what to do here With the back piece cut to size, tongue and groove int. I'sgota cou @ 2 teratsoctnatesabattoseon the frame end a narrow shadow Fine around the parel Fig. 136). Panet. I sirted by cutting the cen- ter lid panel (Z) to size from %%" ply- ‘wood. All trequires isa few rabbets you can cut with a da¢o bade. First on the top face of the panel, cut the \Ndeep rabbet that creates the shaow line. And next you can ere- ate the centered 14" tongue. Just take a lookat Figs. 13a and 14a, and youll see whatyou need to do here. aM. The panel is now ready to be framed. First the lid frame front (AA), sides (BB), and back (CC? can be cut to size from 3/"-thick stock. (Fortis frame, they'reall the same width.) Next, the pieces need ig. 136). Agein, the important thing is to get a snug ft. When the grooves are cut the pieces could be fit around the panel. But I wanted to rout the bullnose on the front ané sides first. AS you can see in Fig. 13, its just ike the base frame, FITTING THE RANE, Fiting the frame to the panel in'thard. And with the tongue and grocve joint to support the frame, the ob isa lot easier. But you wantto do this carefully ‘The front and sides are pretty straightforward, [Just mitered them atthe front to fit around the panel Bat there’s alittle trick to fiting the stubtenoned back piece. The first thing you want to do is clamp the site pieces in place on the panel and measure for the length of the back you can fit the stub tenon in two steps. Start by sneaking up on the thickness of the tenon, leaving the length a little short. When it fits snug in the groove, you can sneak up on the length until you get a ‘ood tight it between the sides, GWEAP, Before you get ino the sluc up, there are a couple thingsto consider. The firstis whether or not to stain the shadow line (see paze 23). And the second is how to avoid having to clean glue squeeze-out from the shadow line, To prevent this Ijust put gluein the groove and only on the bottom of the tongue. HINGES. Now the mortises for the hhinges can be cut, asia Fig 15. And for some online tis for this proce- dure, see the box below right. No. 145 ‘Woodsmith To avold an accident, you may want to add ‘yer hates in ie back upper rail of the chest S00 Samdust on page 2 for more Information.)Hardware & Finish Now you're in the homestretch. ‘There are just a few more details. ‘ist 0ck. ter the lid wes hinged, could tthe brass cheat Ick, asin Fig. 16. To do this, you'll need to do «lite bit of mortising. Fig. 16a shows howthelock mechanism fits into the case. When the lock is in place, it can be used to position the “Tink” that’s ‘mortised into the lid. Adding the lock. is discussed in the article starting on page 24. At this point, I did all the ‘mortising, but | waited to install the Jockuntil after the finish wes applied. tuo Cuan. Theil chain isan inpor- fantitem Ithelpe protects your hard A A 3)h"colid brass work. Figs. 1Gand 16b show whereto chest lock isfit into position the chain brackets. he case and lid. STAIN. Now after some final sand- ing, you're ready to apply a finish, But before you get ahead ofyourself, you might want to think about using a ‘tain. Normally like the look of nat- ural cherry. With just aclear finish, it gradually darkens to @ nice, warm, redeish-brown color Butonmy chest, Idida't havea very goo! color match between the plywood and the sold ‘wood parts, So Idecided to use astain toblend everything together. I think itwas worth the extra effort. FINISH. Iused one of my favorite fin- ishes on the chest —Hope's Tung Oil Varnish. Hike this product because ‘even though youjustwipe iton, itil hhas a good “build” with anice sheen and provides plenty ofprotection. And itsvery easy to apply. Just wipe on a fullcoat and then wipeoffthe excess. Iletthe chest dry overnight, sanded lightly, and gave it a second coat. ‘Three coats are usually plenty. MATERIALS & SUPPLIES A Case Sides (2) B Case Dividers (2) Drawer Runners (2) D Comer Stiles (4) 2h py. ATA KAD py - 16x 42 Wax %- 16% 4x 154-175 E Bot/Mid/Upr. Rais (6) 44x 11-40% F Upper Stiles (4) 4x Vp-8% G Loveer stiles (2) Ux Wh 6% H Upr Small Panels(4) _%éply - 83% » 914 1 Upr Mid. Panels 2). % ply. -838 x 1934 J Lower Panels (2) Yaply.- 6/4x 193% K Filler Strip %4x 4-100 bin, L_ Bottom Spacer %x1- 120.10. M Bago Frame Fr. (1) Ux 2% AS N Base Frame Sides (2) 4x 294-19 (© Base Frame Back |1) _ %4x1%- 3915 P Base Moldng Q Cap Molding R Cop Beck (1) $ Panel Molding "Hex Je- 140 in T Drawer Sides (4) x 5%4- 164 U Drawer FrontsBacks 4) Yex 514-1874 V Drawer Bottoms (2) 4 ph. - 16% x 18% WDrawer Guides (2) Hex 12-15% X Drawer Fase fronts (2) %x 54 187% 4x Me- 90h. in YUXA%-3 bin xe AN Y Drawer Stops (4) 5x A-3 Z Lid Panel (1) I ply 1A x AO ‘AALid Frame Frt. (1) Wx 19-45 BB LidFrameSides(2) 34x 294-19 CClidFrameBack (1) %4244-40%4 + (1 set) Bracket Feet w/Braces + (1 pt) 3” Solid Brass Hinges w/Scews + (1) 3%" Chest Lock wiscutcheon + (1) 15” Brass Chest Chain + Q) 372" Bress Bail Pulls + @) Plastic Stem Bumpers + @8)#8 « 114" Fh Woodscews + @) #81" Rh Woodscrevs, + @)#8 Washers rotackle the bracket feet, the “ogee” base, pie~ tured at lf, ‘makes a nice alter native. Irs a ile simpler and sil thas a clasic look Ifyou decide not Woodsmith No.145SOURCES Paneled Blanket Chest Before I started building the chest, I found some high-quality brass hard- ware. I bought mine by mail order, but you mightfind some offtlocally. GHEST LOCK & ESCUTCHEON. The 314" chestlock might be the most difficult item to come by. Iboughtmine from Lee Valley (00P27.35), but VanDyke's Redtorers carresapretty similar lock. ‘The escuicheon (OLA1910) was ordered seperately from Lee Valley HINGES, PULS, HAM & BUMPERS, The ‘brass hinges, brass bail pulls, chain, ‘and stem bumpers are all pretty stan- dard items and are more commonly avaiable. Several ofthe sources listed carry the same or similar items, but Lordered the pulls from Rockler (G5402) to match those [used on the bedside chest in Woodsmith No.139. BRACKET Feet I'you want to include ‘bracket feet on your chest but don't a ‘want to make them, there are a cot plesources forready made feet. Both Roeleler and Van Dyke's carry bracket feet similar tothose pictured in cherry anda couple other woods. EDSIDE CHEST PLANS. [f you'd like to order the bedside chest plans from issue No. 139, they can be purchased ‘onourweb cite, cee box below. Router Bits Allthree ofthe projets in this issue require at least one “special profile” router bit that you might not own. ‘The bits that I used were made by Amani Tools, buta number of other manufacturers make with the same ar similar profiles. Ifyou can't find these bits locally, some mail order sources are listed, Some ofthese bit ‘can be pretty expensive, so you might Suoparounda litle before you buy. BLINKETCHIST @ HEADBOARD. To build the blanket chest, J used three dif ferent profile bits. The cap and base molding were made with a" Roman ‘ogee bit (Aman #49206). (And the ‘same bitis used for the caps and feet of the archtop headboard) On the panel molding] used a classical cove and bead bit (Arana #54130). And finally for the drawer frontsyou'll nsed a Vi" ogee filet (Amana #54114). Again thisbit did double duty on the headboard molding and the panels. BOOKENDS. For the Lookend mold- ings Luseda sighily smaller dassical cove and bead bit (Amana #54122). Bookends With afew scrapsof wood, some" MDF, and a piece of veneer, you're bout set to goon the bookends. But did need a couple other items. ‘AUX FINISH. The special inishes that used on the bookends area product called American Accents made by Rust-Olewm. vcames ina variety of Afferent colors and “effects.” -INTLSUP TAPE T used. selFathesive non-slip tape made by 31M on the bot- No. 5 tomes of the bookends. You can find the noni tape andthe Rust-Olewn finishes at hardware stores Woodsmith Online Extras you don'thave internetaccess, you can have acopy ofthisissue's Online Exirasmailed to you, justoend acelt addressed, stamped #10 envelope to: Woodsmnith No. 145 Online Extras P.O. Box 842 Des Moines, 18 504 Please specify whether you'd lke thearticle and pattern for the bracket feet orthe optional “ogee” base. OF + Ove 100 Woodworking Tos Online + VisitOur Realere PreectPhoio Gallery * Projct Plans YouCanDovnlosd + Cato of Project Kits Tools, Jigs, & Plans + Forums or Woodworking Tod, & Classifeds + Links to Other Woodworking Sites | st * Onder Waits & ShopNoesBacktasues | www.woodsmith.com MAIL ORDER SOURCES Similar project Gurplas ey be from the following ‘companies Amana Too 900.445.0077 amanitoolcom Renters. Lee Valley [800871-8158 Ieee Beas bal us Bras hinges, Chet chain, Cnt Brcaeon& im, ‘Sembunpers Rockler soo279.aaa1 rockiercom Bracket fe, Brassil ule, Rower bs, Sembramper, Van Dyke's Restores '200.558-1224 vandyescom ‘Brut fe, Dees ral Bras hinges, Cheat ac, Bute & pie Viner '800-835-508¢ Rowers Woodworkers Supply 800.645.8292 wodworkencon Bras bail pul Bras ines, Rosters,A LAST Li FINAL DETAILS ° Arch-Top Bookends. > ‘The cares onthee bookends tasform 4 simple project one that's striking, and they're nothardto creat. You'll find decal intrucions on page 18. orm VAY, “< Arch-Top Headboard. Whit this head- beards anshing bu orn, su fired thats elegane arch top molding raised panels ave sunpisinaly svaiheforvead to build. Bas-2 ell instructions begin on age 6. And the technique forthe archtop smog tars on page 16. Blonket Chest. > ‘The constriction of this heirloom chess pretty basic, but deta lite the Bracket feet, the panel ‘molding ae a half-morise ck wally seit apart, Complete pans begin on page 26.Woodsmith ARCH-Topr HEADBOARD MATERIALS A rea ee a iit B Post Sides (4) 1x2%- 54 tah. ‘J. Splines x 1-32 In. ft. C filler Strips ox Ye- 32 igh. K Inner Stiles (2) 1x 3-30 gh. © ope Maras Ris | CEeseedhy, 6 soho Pe alee «= ween «=| eetianse F TopRail(1) 1x12 igh. - 56 N Back Panel (1), Yap. - 30x51 G Bottom Rail (1) 1x8-56 1H Molding (1) 1x79 gh. - 56 CUTTING DIAGRAM polipieneeenitee : ——7 : Wy), Sen Tir 26" Chery (no Boords@ 54 Fe ech) Se ee ‘We x6 = 95" Chery (To Boards @ 43 Bd. Ft Each) ” ™ Tx 7% = 96° Cherry 75 Bd. Ft) ” TES Gen EMI felelele[olo[o[o]olo x6" 0" Chewy (no Boards @ 2.12 Ba Fe Each) Fox Bi = 60" Chery (a2 Fe) « SUPPLIES + (16) #8 x24" Fh Woodicrene + (QO) #8 x 1" Rh Woodscrews + (16) #6 x 15" Rh Woodscrews + (@) 4-20 Threaded insets + (@)4"-20.«1" Hex Head Screws + (9) Washers Woodemith No. MS Loft I Spins a ir Hom thssection ane (©2006 August Tome Piblshing, Allrghts reserved,ONLINE EXTRAS racket fet hve jist the rghtcon binstionof srenath and elegance. The thick blocks provide plenty of suppor fora pojectike the blanket cchestin Woodsmith No.145, Bat the ‘raceftcontours ofthe faces and the carves ofthe salloped profiles kee thefeetfrom looking too heavy. Allin all, theyre prety inpressve On the otherhand fyouive never rail bracket feet, i's easy to be a bit intimidated by all these curves Don't be. They don't require nearly as much Kandwork as you might = | expect — most of the shaping done al the table sa and band saw. ROM ROUGH To READY. Bracket fees start out ag 1A%thice blanks. Bat 28 you can see in the margin, I gue ‘two %4'-thick pieces together, sol Roughing Out the Face Profile dov't haveto buy f"thick sock —Withiheblanksinhand, youreready your table saw, And cutting th: cove ‘The blanks are then cut oversized to create the Shaped profile on the ie done in multiple passes, “nib- (@e"x 16), «0 the two halves of faceofesch blank Altherough work. bling” away only Yj" of material cach footean be cut fromone bank or thsis done atthetabl saw, sta with each pass Seep3). ‘Allorthework ofshaping theface ing witha simple cove (Steps 19). ‘To find the correct angle of the roils done while the blanks are CVE SHEAR. Acoveis ent by push fences, [frst mark the entry and ‘oversized, Then the’llbe ct in ha ing aboard across the table saw at exit yoinls of the blade when its and mitered, and the curved scallop an angle, guided by a pur of wood raised to its fll height, which is 56" willbe cut (See the pattera on the fences. If you've never cut a cove forth cove Gtep ).Thent makea next page). Finally the halves of before, don't worry Steps 1 and 2 posterboard “frame” (with 1%) cach font oot willbe giued together ill show you exactly how to set up wide opening an a" border) and aise Biadeteath Raise ‘ou Lan iad tooth entry were ee aes vie on taal of See To begin, raise the blade to the Next, make a template with 9 #Y Vithboth forces h poca set he final depth ofthe cove 56"). Then la. 134" inside window (the cove's WD bade ke high and make a pass. sing tape, mark where the teeth of fnalvdth). Then angle the template Raise blade in Yh" increments and the Dlade enter anc exr the table. <0 the lang edges touch the marks. repeat until cove & % deep. From Wooésmith Magazine 1 (©2008 August Hore Publishing, Allrights reserved,angle it unl it touches the entry With your template in hand, set it to adjust both the angle and the and exit points (Step 2). Now the onthe ends ofeach blankandalign it height ofthe blade, but there aren't firstfence cin be clamped in place, with the cove: Then tacearound the any hard and fast dimensions 10 “To positon the second fence, sim- tomplete, as shown in the photo work with here. The best way to set ‘ly clamp itto the table wit one of below. Now you've gota good guile up the saw is to crouch behind the the blanks sandwiched in between, for what the profile willlook ike and saw and eye down the saw blade (The blank should slide smoothly) where toremovethe wast. (ith the blank behind the blade so ‘GT GOVE, At this point, you're FINSHED WIOH. The next step is to you ean see the profile) ready tocutthecoves (tep3).Start begin removing the waste by trim- Dor’ attempt to cut right to the with the blade set ‘As" above the ming the edges of the blanks (Step _ line. The idea is just to get close ‘table, and don’ remove any more 4. With te profile ready draymon enough so the final shaping doesn't than Ve in one pass. Stop when the the ends,allyou nood todo iscetthe take alot of time (or effor). And be cove isatits full height 4"). fence so the blade aligrs with the ready to make several passes, reset- MAKE TPUTE, Now before you do proflelines. (Youilend up wimming ting the fence and the angle of the ‘anymore shaping, i's agoodidea to about "or sofrom each edge) _blade with each pass. make atemplate. (Be you can sec in CONPLEE COME. Now you're ready to ROUNDOVER, After the cove is com. the photo below, I made mine out of elongate one edge of the cove. You pleted, the roundover located on the hhardbowrd,) The pattern below is could dothiswit arasp oraiile, but top, outside corner can be roughed the only one you need for the eet, I removed most ofthe waste much out. Again I used the table saw 10 ‘The curve on the end will help you quicker with a 1éfwide stacked remove much ofthe waste but this create the face profile. (The scal- dado set, as you can see in Step 5. time, lused a regular saw blade tit- oped profile willbe cut later) ‘To remove the waste, youll need ed 45% as shown in Step 6. al a serena pms fl oe ences aS cw With the profil laid out on the Next. extend shape of cove by ge Now the top, outside comer of ‘ends of each blank (Gee photo sd removing waste with dach lade QD exch lank canbe rimmed. To do below), rp ther to final with (4), set atangle. Aust apfence and deco ths tit arequlr saw blade 45° Then ttimmirg waste fom each edge. ‘bade between passes asneeded. sneak upon the final layout fine. Bracket Foot Pattern = kb * + Ne ae : a Hardboard makes a good, reusable template for the bracket fet profes, see pater at left.‘ pasion the template on the Blank, just Be up ‘withthe cove you've already cut. NOTE: Se ul sie pattem on last page of this ari 0008 August Heme Publhing. Al right cored Prom Woodsmith MagazineFace Profile: Clean-Up ‘Up this point all the work atthe table sa hes been to get the face of the blanks to reugh shape. Nov its time to clean vp all the unwanted shoulder nes and saw marks let by the sawblade sothatyou end up ith smooth curveon the face orofle. This is where the handwork of ‘making bracket feet comes in, and youl find theres realy not much to it Bach blank only has alitle mate- tial leftto remove, and the prafiles draw on the ends will guide you. Butdos'tbetoocritcal The bracket feetend up far enough apart sothat ro one will netce if the profiles aren' exactly identical, OUTSIDE GURVI. The areas that rnced the most shaping are the out side (conves) curves atthe topand botiom ofthe feet. I shaped them witha block plane set to take a thin shaving, as shown in Step 7. (But Miter & Spline Joint Nowthat te profile ofeach blanks ‘complet, they can be cut into ind vidual pieces and one end of each ‘row oot piece canbe mitered. UBEL BLANKS. But before you get started, if good idea to abel the picees, as shown in the drawing below. For each front fot you want to glue the ends you cut apart back together — this time joining them with spined miters, ‘There ae two reasons for doing it this wa. For one thing, the grain on the faces ofthehalves will match up and “wrap around? the foot. Plus, See From Woodsmith Magazine ‘On the blank’s outside curves, plane any hard tines, removing ‘enough waste to rene a gente curve that matches the layout onthe ends you can also get the job done with a rasp or aSurformtype plane, which Inoks like a block plane but works like a rasp) Start by smoothing out the noticeable shoulders, Then sim ply keep taking thin shavings, fol Ibwing the profile rawnon the end. since you have already done the {inal shaping, thls teclinique will ensure the profile of the pieces match as closely as possible. (You ‘may sfllneed to do some light sand- ing ater theyre glued together) AER FRONT PIECES. With the paris hnbeted and cut apart, the next step is tomiter one end ofeach front foot piece, as shown in Sep 9. The nice thing here is you don't have to worry ahout an exact length, That will be taken care of when you ere- ate the scallop profile later. But I still added a stop block to the auxiliary (Once the ridges have been planed any smeoth out the ave using apiece of sancipaper wropped eround short length of plumbing insulation INSIDE CURVES. The inside curves are even easier. All you need to dois ‘sand or scrape them (Step §). T ‘wrapped sandaper around a length ‘of plumbing insulation. It provides just enough support and flexibility tosand the curve efficiently miter gauge fence so the piece wouldn't shift a6 i was being ‘pushed across the bla. ‘After mitering the pieces, I low- ‘red the blade and regostioned the stop block to cuta kerf for a spine (Gtep 10). These splines are added mostly to keep the pieces aligned ‘whenyou glue them together, BACK FT. Eecause a project like the blanket chestis usually against ‘bed or wall only the front feet are niitered. The back feet are simply supported with 2 small triangular Dracein back (reer to Step 17. pes 7 With the profile complete, cut all the blanks in hatt. (See crewing at left) Then miter the four pieces ‘that il be used for the front feet. 02 ech mitered end for aspine tohepaign the pieces Then cuta Ts" hraroboard spine 10 itn the ker. 3 (€2008 Auqus Home Pebishing,Allights reserved.Scalloped Profile Belreyoucan shethc Ret ogee, theraill ere more prof et ee cut on the end of the blank (instead ffon he face), and the works done at the band saw ad dil prose Gosteod fhe eee), Beret thing to dois lay out the prefile. ‘AY OUT PROFILES. You've already: et ere ine he ltr thi care, es ae refer to the pattern on page 2. But tints thetoatndacklegs are I] Yate scalopedporeof be ap laut satpon exch slightly different. The font feet are pattern onto back side of the foot blank so it will end uo 7" long overall (Step 11), while the mitered pieces Position the template 612" ong. Fp template for second back feet are only 614" (Step 12). 50 the fect will end up 7*ong. foot s0 back pieces are minored For both feet, Lad outa line across the back sie ofeach blank and then aligned the template wit ths ine. With the back fect, the thing to ‘keep in mind isthatther're wotiden- tical. With their contoured faces, they're mirrored images of each other, co mike sureyou end up with both a right anda left back fot. PE PROFLE. These profiles are [SX easier to create than the face pro- sys files. roughed out the pofies the era Reet (ae i [4 as much as possible with a drum ‘both the front and back feet ‘each foot, sand thescaloped sander (Step 14) before finishing using the band savy staying to the profit thefayoutines usng acrum thea with alte hand sanding, waste side ofthe ayout ine. sander in the dil press Foot Assembly [Now that the profs are complete, make sure could remove them eas- bend ofthe hide glue. Then the font thefectarerealy tybeassembled. iy, ued plywood forthe blocks canbe serped clean, andthe wplte RONTFEETojointhehalves ofthe and liquid hide slueto attach them, cen be trimmed fish, front feet, [wanted to use clamps, as shown inthe margin photo. The BACK EE. To provide pleat cf sup- Dutttere’sno goodplae topostion plywood can be spi fairly easily por forthe back fet, cut smal them. So I glued small camping between the bottom (wo pics, and angular braces and ghied and ‘locks tothe top and bottom edges thenby applvinga litle bot water to screwed them to the back of the parallel with themitered end. And to the plywood, you can loosen the feet, as shownin Step 17 below. OS RSA ace taba Bleiacarnees® “spine rt say arte Lb Senet 6 eres 7 eaten reece ng blocks to the pieces par pry anayat bottom ply. Then «and dill counterbored shank ale 0 the mitered ends See margin). ioosen give with hot water pare avay holes (Use handscrew to hold brace) ‘Then gue hates togetter plywith chisel and sandsmcoth. Then glue and screw to foot (62m August Home Publshicg. Allright reserved 4 From Woodemith MagazineBracket Foot Pattern Woodsmith No. 139 - Bedside Chest No. 145 - Paneled Blanket Chest CCopyigh 2003, August Home Pubishirg Company A Rigs Reseed WASTE | be cote(ainsi: Woodsmith PANELED BLANKET CHEST MATERIALS A Case Sides 2) Yoo A74X17H P Base Molding 44x "fe 90 nin B Cac Dividers (2) Siphy - 161542 © CapMoling §——-¥4x154- 90 nin C DrawerRurners(2) fax Y= 16% R Cap Back(1) UX ip- 46 D Comer stiles (4 IK Vie 17h 8 PanelModing "6x2 140i. E BotMMil/Upr. Rails(6) %x 1/2-40% 1 Diower Ses 4) YexStor 10% F Upper Stiles (4) 4x 1h-B% U Drawer FrontyBacks 8) %5x5lA- 18% G Loner Stiles 2) 4x5 6% V Drawer Bottoms 2) py - 15/6 18% H Upr Srrall Fanes (4) Yaph «8% x95 W Drawer Guides (2) Sex 15-15% 1 Upr Mid, Panels (2). Yepiy.- 874 1934 X Drawer False fronts (2) ¥4x5%4- 10% J Lower Fans (Yi nly- ex 193% Y Drawer Stops(4) x53 K filler tip ex 4-100 in Z LisPanel(t) Ye ph = 18Yax 4014 L BotiomSpacer 4x 1- 120h.in ‘AL Frame Frt (1) 6x 2-15 Mbese emer (1) %ex2%-a8 BB Le Fame Sices (2) 24x2%4-19 N Base Frame Sides (2) %sx234-18 CC Ld Fame Back") Yax234- 40% © Base Frame Back (1) 44x 144-394 HARDWOOD CUTTING DIAGRAM 7°96 Chay 7 td) = XT = 96 Ceery Hr bet) uv vu Uti 272 htple 0 9 0) Woodroith No. 16 tof? 2000 August Howe Publishing, Allighs rexrvedLYWOOD CUTTING DIAGRAM 96" plywood SUPPLIES + (1st) Bracket Feet wBraces + (1 pr) 3” Solid Brass Hinges w/Screws + (1) 34" Chest Lock wscutcheon + (1) 45" Brass Chest Chain + @ 31s" Brass Bail Puls + (@ Plastic Stem Bumpers + (33) #8 114" Fh Woodscrews + (@ #8x 1" Rh Woodscrews + (@ #8Weshers (©2008 August Heme Publning. Alvights reserved. 26f2 From Woodsmith MagazineONLINE E Optional Base ‘The bracket fet tat I puton the blanket chest, are realydstnetiv, but this simple, ogee" base rmekesa great alerrative Ids just mitered frame {hat stn from the edges of the bullnose ‘ase frame. (The ogee base shoul line upwith the base molding above) ‘Mier the pieces are mitered, I xt ‘cfs and splines that wil enforce the jot Then the pre shorn in Fig. lacanbecat and smooihed nis i hard, but work earhuly 9 you ‘end up with lean, smoothlins. Before etacing the frame, youll need oad some mounting cleats the front and sis ofthe base fame ‘And two tranglr brace blocks ein force the base frame at thebadk. Mortising Chest Hinges ‘There's no big secret to mori ‘butt hinges. F've found thatall ittakes. isa lite know-how and a dose of patience. And like any job, I like to use any shortcuts that are available. layout. For the blanket chest in issue No. M5, started iththecase. “The fret step here isto lay oxt the mortise. Once you've marked the ‘position of the hinge, just setit inplace and score aroune with a sharp tie ity, arin Fig. The sary cuts are easy to see and wil sive 7ou a head sart when t’s time toclezn out themertise. Remember that the ba relof tho hingo shoul et proud ef ‘the case, as shown in Fig. 2a.) OUTER SHORTCUT. Now you could start chopping ou the mortise with ‘sharp chi but keto se asa hhandtheld router with 2 straight bit to rough out the mortise. (used a 5a. bit) This method gives you a semeothbottamand aconsstent depth and just makes the ob littl easier. Buttherearea couple simple ticks to ths method, First yor need to set therouterbito cto the right depth, Fig. 2a. shows whatvou'e afterhere —the same degth mortse inthe Fd and the case. [just measured the thickness ofthe hing: barrel and then splitthe difference, subsracting alit- te (4) so Td end up wih clearence between the ld andthe case. Next toaafely use a outer onthe narrow edge ofthe case. yow'l need “lie help. As you can see ia Fiz. 2, sed ae bloc camped lsh with the top cage ofthe case to give the router base more surface to ride on. (A rabbet inthe block just provides ‘dearance to tar: thecut) Onceyoure setup jst ket slow. First test the depth of the cut, and ‘when you're satsied sneak up close to the scored lines with the bit. ‘amar, Ater you're roughed out the mortise, a sharp chisel will eom- tletethejob. Just deepenthe scored lines you made earlier with the wil tyknifeand then carefully pare away the waste, as shonin in Fig.3. LUD MORTISS, Now the case morts- «3 can be used to locate the mortis- ‘in the bd But this fie, you won't reed the support block. And finaly, ‘trytomakesure the plot holesfor the screws are centered so they don't move the hingesin the mortises 52 Srre sink, rsrdzesen J] | Secono: mars awoywaste Woodemith No, 145 Online Extras © 2008 August Home Publishing CompanyARCH-Top HEADBOARD PATTERN: KING Printing Notes Please note the following printer settings before you print: 1.DO NOT check the box labeled SHRINK or EXPAND pages. 2. If available, set PAGE SCALING to NONE. After all sections are taped together, the KING PATTERN should measure approximately 34"<—____ INIsHED HALF PATTERN LENGTH = 54" excnoNt ercnone I GETING. [= SECTIONS: NOTE: CUT OUT THE FIVE SECTIONS AND TAPE TOGETHER TO FORM HALF PATTERN SECTION 1 PEAT WHOSE RAE PACER ONLINE EXTRAS | ARCHED-TOP HEADBOARD: KING-SIZED HALF PATTERN 1-5, ‘SUPPLEMENT - COPYRIGHT 2003, AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING COMPANY. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.<—___ FinieHe HALF PATTERN LENGTH = 84" secnioNt SECON SECTIONS, pee oe 8 a NOTE: CUT OUT THE FIVE = SECTIONS AND TAPE TOGETHER Lee TO FORM HALF PATTERN ONLINE EXTRAS | ARCHED-TOP HEADBOARD: KING=SIZED HALF PATTERN 2-5 ‘SUPPLEMENT - COPYRIGHT 2003, AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING COMPANY, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED,—— FINISHED HALF PATTERN LENGTH = 34"——______p! secrion2 SECTIONS me eee 6 NOTE: CUT OUT THE FIVE SECTIONS AND TAPE TOGETHER TO FORM HALF PATTERN SECTION 3 EARNER TROOSSMETC RAE ONLINE EXTRAS | ARCHED=TOP HEADBOARD: KING-SIZED HALF PATTERN FABER 3-5 SUPPLEMENT - GOPYRIGHT 2003, AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING COMPANY. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED,\¢ FING HED Har parreRN LeNGtH =34"—___p] ion excons oe cena) eens oe Mn NOTE: CUT OUT THE FIVE SECTIONS AND TAPE TOGETHER TO FORM HALF PATTERN DEPARTMENT [DORSET AE PACERO. ONLINE EXTRAS | ARCHED=TOP HEADBOARD: KING=SIZED HALF PATTERN a5 SUPPLEMENT - GOPYRIGHT 2003, AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING COMPANY. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED,{Fist a ren ena = 64+ >} secnons secnons SECIONS. NOTE: CUT OUT THE FIVE SECTIONS AND TAPE TOGETHER TO FORM HALF PATTERN \e a EDITOR'S NOTE: ‘The following dimension was left out of the Headboard article. Please vite t issue 0 page 8, Fig. 1 EET ONLINE EXTRAS: WORMS ARCHED-TOP HEADBOARD: KING=SIZED HALF PATTERN ‘SUPPLEMENT - GOPYRIGHT 2003, AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING COMPANY. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED,ARCH-ToP HEADBOARD PATTERN: QUEEN Printing Notes Please note the following printer settings before you print: 1. DO NOT check the box labeled SHRINK or EXPAND pages. 2. If available, set PAGE SCALING to NONE. After all sections are taped together, the QUEEN PATTERN should measure approximately 28"FING HED HALE Parmer LENG = 298 SECTION + SECTION 2 SECTIONS | SECTION 4 eet \s _ a NOTE: CUT OUT THE FOUR SEGTIONS AND TAPE TOGETHER TO FORM HALF PATTERN, SECTION 1 ONLINE EXTRAS | ARCHED-TOP HEADBOARD: QUEEN-SIZED HALF PATTERN tod ‘SUPPLEMENT - COPYRIGHT 2003, AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING COMPANY ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.¢__________ FINIGHED HaLe ParreRN LENGTH = 26° ———___» a NOTE: CUT OUTTHE FOUR SECTIONS AND TAPE TOGETHER ‘TO FORM HALF PATTERN SECTION 2 DEPARTMENT WOOSSMEA RAE ONLINE EXTRAS: ARCHED-TOP HEADBOARD: QUEEN-SIZED HALF PATTERN TAGERO? 2-4 ‘SUPPLEMENT - COPYRIGHT 2003, AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING COMPANY. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.Fine ate parreeaiuenand = 26% —____» roman: _ NorEscur our He Fou SECTIONS AND TAFE TOGETHER ‘TO FORM HALF FATTERN TERAREVENT TROOBSMITTT AAS ONLINE EXTRAS + ARCHED-TOP HEADBOARD: QUEEN-SIZED HALF PATTERN PAGER B-4 ‘SUPPLEMEN T- COPYRIGHT 2003, AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING CONPANY, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.FING HED aL Parmer LENGTH = 298 ———____» eECrION | ercrion 2 excnons. ll les 4 __ NOTE: CUT OUTTHE FOUR SECTIONS AND TAPE TOGETHER ‘TO FORM HALF PATTERN torroR’s NoTt: ‘The following dimension was left out of the Headboard article. Please write this in your issue on page 8, Fig. 1 Say appeces ONLINE EXTRAS | ARCHED-TOP HEADBOARD: QUEEN-SIZED HALF PATTERN ae ‘SUPPLEMENT - COPYRIGHT 2003, AUGUST HOME PUBLISHING COMPANY. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.