Vol. 24 / No. 142 Te net ONC yy a eit Lg ‘A Publication of August Home PublishingWoodsmith No. 142 August, 2002 Publisher Donald B.Peschke Editor Terry]. Sirohman Senior Editor Jon Garbison Assistant Editor Brian McCallum Art Director Todd Lambirth Senior Mlustrators David Kreyling, Dirk Ver Steer arian V. Clarke Graphic Intern Nathan Robertson’ (TIVE RESOURCES nar Tel Pe or Kn ail» Se Pet Doiguen: Kat Wels, Kyan Mimele» Pot Deg Seve foason * sericea tnt aor. ‘atte «Gagne ee Bri nies CIRCULATION, ete te Den rl a ees Gir Ne Pose ae Wa wc age eas Bing Cate Mager ce Cuming © Gi, Mei ies ete de ie arg Gna Deans a ina BOP CORPORATE SERVICES Woy Piavce: Mary R. Scheve * Conte Roti, Ke Hacitcn Se Aca ar). Toes ts ee Mary iugo aras * Praveon Di SHE ae tetera ene anes a teeter, Seer ‘Pertedicals pai oi ‘pelea ee eee ee Ri ora ee re Ee terrae te eee ootnUsk SATO (ena SAWDUST t's face it Outdoor projects really takeabeating. They/re exoosedto. driving rain, baking sun, and freezing cold — conditions that would destroy ay pieces ofindoor f Now that’s not to say that you can't have furniture outside. It's just that when it comes to building outdoor furniture, you need to think a bit dif: ferently than with indoor furniture. For starters, it’s important to be selective about the type of material ‘you use, For all the outdoor projects in this isoue (the Patio Table on pare e Bench on page 14, and the Tray Fable on page 26) we chose cedar. One nice thing about cedar is itresists decay, so it stands up well to b ‘outdoors, And it’s commonly avail able, (We found all the material we needed ata local home center) Ofcourse, there's more to building aan outdoor project than the type of ‘wood you use, The project itself has to be built to last. We designed the prot cects in this issue with thick, beefy parts. (We used “two-by” material and 5/4 decking boards for almost all the ‘workpieces in our projects.) Combine that with mortise and tenon joints and splined miters, and you have sturdy projects that will lst for years. But don't worry that allthis heavy- duty construction will result heavyweight project. In addition to Woodsmith Readers’ Gallery Vist ther Hooda subscribers workshops. and see ‘line in the new Readers’ Gallery on the Woodsmith web ste. photos of the proieets they've bul He ‘wow Woodsmith.com ‘We want you to be part ofthe Readers’ Gallery! To submit photos of vour favorite ects or views of your shop, Viooadsnith px follow the instructions you'l ind atthe Reader's Gallery. ‘Woodsmith being dursble, cedar has another advantage — it’s lightweight. So even though these projects look solid, they/re easy to pick up and move, Ofcourse, once you've built an out door projeet, you'll want it to look ‘2001 for as long as possible, So we've included a short artiele on the type of ‘outdoor finishes we like to use. WOODSMUTH TOURS ‘The first Woodsmith Tour this past May was a great success. Everyone on board rated it as “Excellent,” and we heard such comments as “The pre- sentations were even better than I expected’ and “Each day was better than the one befor So we're hitting the road again in October, We'l be visiting the shops of some of America’s premier wood- ® workers, sawmills, and tool factories in the southeastern United States, ‘And to top it off, the fall colors in the ‘mountains should be absolutely spec- tacular that time of year. For more information call Jim, our tour coordi- nator, at 877-895-0913, Or visit our ‘web site: www. WoodsmithTours.com. No. 142A Look CONTENTS Features Patio Table This table will becom: ‘any patio or deck. les round top and sturdy base are the perfect combination of strength. And with our step-by-step instructions, its tion won't throw you any curves Wrap-Around Benches .... Designed to complement the table, these benches have 1 challenge — working with odd angles. But don't worry. There are ‘ois of tips and simple jigs to make building them straightforward, Mortise & Tenon Solutions ............ 22 Here are our favorite shop-tested solutions for making mortise and tenon joints — plus a few shoricuts that will let you cut them faster, easier, anda lidle more accurately. Tray Table . : oqo! The side table, but there's more ‘ith a handle opening at each end, ly lifes off the base to become a serving tray Wall Storage System... Want to maximize every inch of your shop or garage? Here's a unique, lo le system that is easy to rearrange (or aid on to later). And you can have it built in almest-no time. Outdoor Finishes «0.60.00 34 Here's « quick look ac wo popular outtoor finishes: exterior polyurethanes and penetreting oils. Learn howw to decide which fn Ish is right for sour next outdoor project: Departments Tips & Techniques. Shop Notes ......... Sources No. 142 WoodsmithFROM FELL WooDworkERS Adjustable Fence reading yourarticle counterbored into the he ‘Saw Tune-Up irom fence, see Fig. 1b. issue No. 138, I decided it nally, you can set the eto checkemy saw fence to 90° with an Allen But after cleaning and wrench and a square. tuning the entire saw, I ‘You can see how the set realized that my rip fence screws are adjusted in the could not be adjusted to photo at ight. 90° to the saw top. James Safrarek What [ended up doing Moni, Tennese was making a fully adjustable auxiliary fence to attach to the rip fence, FREE Online Tips lryou'e tke even cre wooowork- gtips, HeSO-| As you can see in Fig. 1, Honig SMP] irs a just a piece of MDF stvistusat our But what allows it to be adjusted are some set screws, These can be ai = NOTE: Head of adjusted to make sure the nie ating tes are —— fence is pemendicula to fio topet tao, Building the fence nothing more than drilling a few sete of holes, The back of the fence receives ‘T-nuts that hold the set Bee To attach the auxiliary e-deen fence to my rip fence, 1 | | counterbore used a pair of long imctioe ec fe tise Spring Clamp Smallfamescan beabeer photo below, I ground the use my shop vacuum for age Koosio fits right onto toclamp up sometimes tips ofthe clamp to points, dust collection on a few of a vacuum hose, All you So Tcame up with this These points bite ito Une my smaller machines. But have to do is enlarge the ‘quick modification to an wood and hold the miter finding adapterscan some small hole on the bottom ‘ordinary spring clamp to tightwhilethe giue dries, timesbe hitor miss. to itthe dust port, help simplify things, Pate Brach Well it just co happens Ronald Charon AAs you can see in Yaumevoun, Ohio that a foam rubber bever- retin, Miso ‘web sie aresign up to receive a. free tip via email ‘every weak. seensondsmtheon ‘ole in bottom ie enlarged for dust port Foam rubber "hooey 4 Woodsmith No. 142fiiendionae e a eee Scalloped Corner Jig SE eee Not that long ago while To ct the arc on each place the pin on the jig, To routthe pece, frst ee e making some plaques, I corner, I use my hand: but youcan also make the clamp it down with a pair’ ™ came wpwithaduickisfor held routes It pivots on a arcs smaller by position of toggle clamps. Then I A To creat dco. making some decorative smullpin, esshowninFlg. Ing scrap spacer blocks miake two or thee passes rane caloped scalloped erges, like the 1a. (This pin isjust a mail against the clas, jst ike to cutalltheway through. comer ona ne, one you seein the margin withthe head cut oft) yousee in Fig. 2b. InFig.Za.you'inotce! —allyou needs photo on the right. ‘To allow the router to But before you use this start in the lower corner evower and Theiigisiustaptywood ft over the sivot pin, technique onaworkpiece, and rout in a clockwise a simpejig base with a pair of wool allldidwasioremoveone youllwantiomake airy direction, o ett right. cleats set at 60% lke you of the screws from the run? on a scrap pices. Once the are i cut, I we in Fig. 1, These deats base plate, Then the pin This allows you to see can then rout a decorative rosition the workpiece so fis into the screwhole, where the bitwill eu, and dea llthe way around. the seallopcutin each cor. The size ofthe are will ialso gives you a tating Kas Sine nerendsupidentecal, deyead on where you and stopping point. hick, Alka Aluminum Angle Spacer When buildingthetoolcart To use these spacers, use the spacers along fromissueNo. 118 [found all you need to do s place with some doublesided a another use for the alu. a small piece in cach tape to temporarily attach ‘Hf yout have an original shop tip, we rminumanglesock Tohelp lower corner. Not only the drawer fronts Then | | Would lke t ear from you and ¢on- align the drawer fronts, 1 does this raise the drawer screw it in permanently. ler publishing your tip in one or usedthecutoffsessnacers, front, but it also centers Tim Lavner -MOFE Of our publications, Just write asinthedrawing below. the piece in the opening. Vuadke ineret down your tip and mail it to: Woodsmith, Tips and Techniques, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, Towa 50912, Please include your name, address, and daytime phone number in case we have any questions. If you would like, FAX it to us at 515.282.6741 ‘or send us an email message at. wood- smith@woodsmith.com. We will pay up to $200 if we publish your tip. SUBMIT YOUR TIPS No.142 Woodsmith 5Ourpoor PROJECT Here's an outdoor py oject that’s built with the same care and craftsmanshit fine, indoor furniture. as ( omparedto other types offurnitu are really put to the test, x mean that the project has to be lotof abuse. This outdoor table yet its design isas ‘ase, To mike the base of the table as strong as possi ble, it’s built asa thick frame that ith half and through mortise and tenons. No surprises here. Whet i base can go together with a fe ‘OCTAGONAL ToP, But the real aitraction ofthis table (and the part that has to withstand most ofthe abuse) top. This is an eight-sided frame thal ‘outdoor projects to the ultraviolet at and humidity ed to withstand 2 lenge — prising is how a imple tips Woodsmith D You can buy set of chars for this table shown in the main photo}, or you can bu matching benches, Plans start om pu of narrow slats. To make the miters of the top frame as as the base that supportsit, I added a thick spli toeach end. (The slats are supported by simple cle: added to the inside edges of the Ifbuilding a big frame 5 ing, don't worry. Youtl get plenty of h your miter gauge accurate (with a sin d clamp and a handful of routing the circle with an easy-to-build OUTDOOR FISH, The Tas i and rain isthe fi jere, lus ish, Unlike a deck stain that needs to be year, this type of finish is more durable. For more on e34 stro from setting bling the frau da spar urethane fi coated every odsing outdoor finishes, see No. 142Consiruction @ Details arene OVERALL DIMENSIONS: S2"W x 52"D _— Slats mitered a5* x29"H nore: Table bul wih ed 2x65 3 decking, arc i is see page 35 abet for atteching base Totbe Rabbetin top fame ie Conn of a recereun ort Coat for ae sttening st ise to trame Wehround MATERIALS & SUPPLIES ‘A Frame Segments(8) 172 512-23 oh Lower os tare outs ength ssuppertals B Splines) Wex3-2 © Cleats (6) Yax %-19 19h. ‘eiae D Center iat (1) 145-42 | conerrof al joined | | ror E Shas (4) 1x2%6~42 | ibwersalsare halt ops i) F Slats (2) 127% - 44 rah Hartera G Slats (2) 1X 2%p + 38 rah. H Sais (2) 1x 2%5-31 10h 1 Slats (2) 1x 25/6 - 25 rah. J Upper Reils (2) Wax A 46% K Lower Rails (2) Vex Mh - 46% gh. L Feet (4) 1x4h- ah M Legs (4) 2Yon3-27 1] = 28/4514 thyveodscrews ++ (24) #8 x 156" Fh Woodscrews: +» (8) #8 x2" Fh Woodscrews * (8) #8 x 3" Fh Woodscrews (For assembly). Legsjoined tats with ror ~thvelgh mortises and tenons WoodsinithNoth for ‘Tobuild this outdoor table, I started with the top. For now, the goal is to build alarge, octagonal fame, as you cean see in Fig, 1 above. Later, you'l rout this frame into a circular shape with a shop-made trammel. ‘Ut TO ROUGH SIZE.‘The top starts ‘out as eight identical frame seg- ‘ments (A) that are cut to rough size from cedar 2x6s, (( cut my blanks 54" 29!) Depending on the condi- tion ofyour limber, you may want to Joint and plane it so the frame ends vp flat and its edges are ash. But note that this will affect the thick- ness ofthe cleats that will be added later to hold the slats (Fg. 1b). ‘nme ews, The first thing to do to these segmentsis to miter the ends, as shown in Fig. 2. For an eight- sided frame, you'll need to rotate your miter gauge 224° degrees. (f Foran cightssided frame, you need to cut an accu- rate 224? miter, and here's a quick way to ‘check your setup, First ‘iter aserap piecein hall ‘Then dry assemble the pieces next to the rip fence, as shown here. Now a 45° triangle will quickly show you how accurate your setups, / Slatis added oR aaa rh footer you have & power miter saw, it may havea preset stop for this angle.) ‘You'll want the miter gauge set as accurately as possible — itll mean Jess fine tuning when you ge the frame blanks together. And for a quick test ofthe setup, all you need are a scrap plece and a 45° tiangle, as shown in the box at left, When you're confident that the miter gauge is set accurately, you cean add an auxikiary fence and miter ‘one en ofeach segment. Butbefore you miter the other end, add a stop block to the auniliary fence, as shown in Fig. 2. This way, all the pieces end up exactly the same Jenath (which is just es important as ‘getting the angle correct), ‘UT SLOT FOR SPLINES. To make this frame as strong as possible, I decid- ced to add !thiek splines between the segments, The I'-deep slot you need to cut fr this is too much fora Woodsmith SECTION VIEW. Woste '&° tourdovers nay tut wer —“6 Hd. (alti © Firzat lbteutter bt col used a dado baile inthe table saw. And to support the workpiece, Imade a quick sliding carriage, which e how on page 2. ALE Sunes, Nex, you can cut the splines that fit into these slots. “There's more to this than just get- ting the dimensions right, To end up with the strongest joint possible, ‘You want the grain on the spline to run across the jointline ofthe two pieces you're gluing together, as, ‘show in the margin photo atright ‘Thereare two waysto make these splines You couid plane some stock down to thick and then crosseut them into 2-long pieces. Or if you don't have a planer, you can cut them from the end of a serap piece. (ii show you how on page 21.) ASSEMBLE FRAME, At this point, the frame is ready to be assembled — and this process will be a Iot less hheetic than you might expeet. That's No. 142because | glued up the frame just two pieces ata time, asin Fig. 3 @D _Pembetheseaments you | are going fo want t0 use a glue that’smadefor outdoor use. d chose polyurethane glue. You can find ‘more information about this glue on our web ste, see right margin) To tiold each pair of segments together, I first dry assembled them using a band clamp, But the ou corner tended to open wp. So Leata notch near one end of each piece, using a band saw. Then I ran a screw across the jointine of each assembly, as in Figs, 3 and 3a. (The notch is part of the waste section that willbe routed away later) One more note: To avoid having to trim the splines later on, 1 pushed the splines in so they were flush with the inside corner ofeach joint, (he small geps this leaves will be covered by the sats later) Aker you have four pairs of seg- ments glued up, you ean use this same technique t0 glue the pairs into two halves. But before giuing W vx naves together youll vant to dry assemble them to check their fi. (As you ean see in Fig. 4, long pipe clamp here works just fine for pulling the pieces together.) Ifyou end up with a litte gap, like cleats so the slats will end up flush, the one shown in Fig. 4a, hen you'll with the top of the frame, as shown ‘want to plane the ends with « hand in Fig. 1b. (I used 6/4 decking for pane so they'l fit tight. (Remember the slats, which is about 1" thick, to make the splines smallertoo.) __see page 35) Then to get the cleats GEMS. With the frame assembled, to fit into the frame without gaps, | itt time to add the */"-wide cleats mitered the ends at 22'4° (Fig. 5) (C) that will support the slats, as in and attached them flush with the Fig. 1. Youonly need siz cleats inal bottom of the frame, as in Fig. 6. (Go segments don’t need the ‘caNTER Sat. When the cleats were and you'll want to thickness the glued and screwed to the frame, | added the conter slat (D). As I men- tioned earlier, its made from 5/4 decking, and it’s cut to length (0 Gt into the frame (Fig. 1). Then before attaching it to the frame, a 14" roundover can be routed around its top face ad along the inside of the frame, (Remember to move the router clockwise around the inside of the frame). Now just center the slat and screw itn place (Fig, 7). A. For the strongest miter jine possible, the grain om the spline should en perpendicular ro the jointing No. 42 ‘WoodsmithTop Frame & Slats With the frame assembled and the nter slat centered in its opening, _youre ready torout the circle around the outside edge of the table. Then the rest ofthe slats will be added to the frame, as shown in Fig. 8. ROUTER TRAMNEL, But before you can rout the frame, you'll ned a fir ly lange trammel— one that wil cut a 26% radius, If you don’t have a gst Dil Thole fo ater bit andmount dowel, as shown below. Bit postions — router on base ‘Use bit to postion ‘outer on trammel Stedetall a above Lo SECOND: Drill 144" Upeut spiral Yh ol” Ee saree, 10 \ prin, bole ~in cantersist to accept Biotpointof wamme! Btn n ‘Ifyou don’t have a large tram- mel for routing circles, you can ‘build one ina few minutes with a piece of 1A" hardboard and ee nese (@ secrowvaw enisoer ae SIAT stars 7 ‘ Tey ae °°? “eer | ie