A Publication of August Home PublishingWoodsmith No. 143, October, 2002 0 Ror cain SAWDUST Senior Editor Jon Garbison Contrib. Editors Bryan Nelson Vince Ancona se 's Isat downto write this section, my this project was to take a rather large cup MUDIEGOE Toddambid Arsene pay iis on eer Beeversecs long-time subscriber. He wanted to build as possible. So what we came up Dire Sie inorhoreceecoatck aha nest oe Pe ceca acca eine Of course we've been using com- aasotncae puters for years to help design pro}. ty ia el ee» 9 Po Palen fen ects for the magazine. But we were TSI See tid nee ideafea eeaed ing them like electronic drawing ‘openings. Then we designed the drawers to fit the openings, ‘As the actual construction got eae oe Baris —todrawines chic you underway each draner was checked eles ‘would with paper and pencil All at oeby‘one to make sure it stdin and iy, Doug stb rt inl Dave A.» Changed about eighteen months ago, outsmoothly and thatthe gap arcund ms dia sna oe however, when we went from two- the drawer front was consistent. Sure, imensional drawings to threedimen- there was a little sanding or planing sional compater models. that needed to be done. But all in all, Now we can actually “build” an each drawer fit lke a glove. Just like it entire project on the computer. Bach did on the computer. individual part is made, and then the Ta fact, the drawers fit so well that parts are joined together, just lke we rninte something unexpected — building blocks For example, to add air pressure. As yon pushed one cove molding around a cabinet, the another would pop out, like designer starts with a workpiece. the buttons onan old car radio. ‘Then the curved profile is “cut” inthe The solution was simple enough edge of the piece, Next, the piece iS We drilled some holes in the back of “mitered” to the correct length. And the cabinet to allow the air to escepe finally, is “glued” to the cabinet. In as you close the drawers. But it just many ways, i's similar to building a _goesto show you, that even with high- project down in the shop. tech sofware, there's no substitute Of course this means there's never formaking sawdust. f problem once we start building, right? Well, not exactly. Take the Bedroom Armoire in this issue for instance, The idea behind Woops stoke ab ala ie Tike Set Hei ts ea tk Nonete rab ecteaoem See ect a te Woodsrsith Readers Sahery Se ae ie Wynter wah dco gee Seay en Manne eaen weave bil: dalieme ite ReceEt CT lowe Cue on te Hoorn ee eee : Se ama Sorensen ‘We want you to be part of the Readers! SERS aati real tn es Saar tet Co Gallery To submit photos of your favorite o : inemalicwrstyecish Weodamnith projecss or views of your shop, q ‘NAW Webs ef Sodaencom follow the instructions youll find tthe PrnwdinSA, Reader's Gallery. 2 Woodsmith No. 143Features Bedroom Armoire .. ae Whether ids storing a set of clothes or holding a TV and VCR, this aanmoire is sure to command atiention. Our detailed conseruction plans wail you through the buildine process step by step. Plus, we carme up with an optional top and base, Water-Based Aniline Dyes ..............17 Add dramatic color to a project without covering the natteral beauty of the wood grain. Leam what you need to know about water-based aniline dye to ge great results on your next project Tabletop Display Case ................. 20 ‘With glass panels and distinctive “raised” moldings, friends may spend as much time admiring this case as its contents, show you everything you need to build this heirloom-quality piece. Shop-Tested Plywood Tips .............26 Plywood is a great material for projects. But working with it can be tricky. We share our shop-tested tips for getting top-notch results when cutting, routing, edging, and asserabling plywood. Picture/Framessitotiessntasnths asco: 30 Even though you can build it in an ajterncon, this is more than Just a simple frame. For one thing, the frame is joined with mitered half laps. Plus, we'll show you how to use contrasting woods and veneers to give it any number of custom looks. Mitered Half Laps Here's a joint that combines the elegant lock of a miter joint with the strength of a half lap. And our detailed instructions will ensure you're able to make this unique joint with confidence. Departments Tips & Techniques...... Shop Notes Sources ...... A 18 mee) No.3 WoodsinithOe u nO WOODWORKERS Air Hose Caddy Tuse one of those yellow just the right coiled air hoses on my hose to coil up into, as you portable compressor for can see in the phot. mybradnallerandairnoz To mount the pipe to ale, This type of hose ie the compressor, start by compactanc lightweight. drilling a pair of holes on But ifyouveever used athe motor platform of your hhose like this, you know compressor, see Figs. 1 that they can have @ mind anid La. Safety Note: Make of their own, especially sure you don't aecidental- when you're trying to ly drill nto the air tank of slow them outof the way. the compressor. hose clamp through each the pipe to hold the cou: My solution was to The next step is to eye boll to hokd the PVC _pler fitting on the end of attach a length of 4" PYC mount a couple of eye pipe (Fig. 12). thehose (Fig. 2). pipe to the side of my bolts in the holes you just The last step is to make William Blone 4" a small notch in the end of PoreChatlote, Frida compressor. The pipe is drilled. Then thre =p ones tu } oyebat . cums | OF be eo ebier sirtoo! “Kool-Aid” Stain Small Clamp Holder Recently, Iwas building vors and mixed the pow: I used to keep my small As you can see in the some small, wooden toys. ders in various strengths spring clamps and bar drawing below, [just hung Iwantedtomakesome co to get the shade wanted, clamps on a shelf, Butit a couple of pieces of Yi! ‘orful accents but didn't The drink mix stained the seemed that every time I plywood from the rafters vanttohaveto buyawhole wood just ikea water dye, wanted tousethemfdhave of my basement shop. By sei of wood dyes to do it. Qustmake sure touse the tositthroughatangled pile clipping the clamps to the Sol tried something else. small packets — the ones tofindthesize Ineeled. So plywood, Ican keep them [used powdered drink without sugar) came upwith aquicksolu- organized and handy. mix (Kool-Aid). | experi- MarkMePherion tionto keepthemall organ- Stowe Bessndae mented with lfferentfla- ‘Hutchinson, Kansas . (Oromacio, New Brunswick 4 Woodsmith,Router Stand One of the things I don't like about using a hand- hele router shaving to wait for the bitto stop spinning before setting the router down on my workbench, To solve this problem, I Y This stand allows you to set your router down. cexen before the bit stops, mace this smal stand that allows me to set the router ; doy without having walt =~ SECTION ViEW forthe bitto comet acom- = plete stop first. ‘To make the stand, 1 started by cutting a pair of 8" squares out of 4" ply- ‘wood. Then Ieuta hole in one of these pieces to match the diameter of the base of my router, as you see Fig. 1a, Then the spac router and keep it raised ¢ ‘can see in Fig. 1. ers get sandwiched in up sothe bit doesn’t touch Next, Icut four spacers between the two pieces of anything, This way, I can from some 1'/"\thick plywood, see Fig. 1b. ‘sot the router down even stock. Imade the spacers. Touse the stand, allyou before the bit has finished big enough so that they havetodoissetthe router winding down toa stop. extend pastthe opening in in the opening in the top. Car Sohie the top layer of the stand, ‘The spacers support the Bate, Washington Disc Alignment Tool ‘The dust collection on my and then into the holes in ‘The next step isto cut a iscsanderworksgreat— the sanding pad. couple of short pieces of but only if you have the Tomakethetool, start dowel to fit into the holes. holes in the sanding dise ed by cutting ablock rom Before gluing the dowels Jined up with the holes in some®%/sthick stock. The i place, I chamfered the the pad onthesander. And exactsize ofthe block isn't end of each one (Fig. 1a). fetting them lined up isnt’ too important. (1 made This wil make it easier to alvays.ascasy asitlovks, mine" squareandabout fit the sandpaper dises PE Tips Techni To make alignment of as long as the diameter over the dowel pins. ssid Pewee ay the holes automatic, I ofthe sanding dises) To use the tool, simply Towa 80812, 7 came up with this simple T used one of the sand: put a sanding disc over a al As shown in Fig. 1, ing dises to lay out the the dowel pins. Then just really just a sinall location of ihe dowel align the dowel pins with block of wood with a pair holes in the block. After the vacuum holes in the of dowels glied in it The marking out the loca- sanding pad (Fig,2). dowels fit through the tions, you can dill t E.. Devenpot holes in the sanding dise holes for the dowels. Weynewil, North Cerna SECTION VIEW cgi \ Glue dewel into hale No. 143 ‘WoodsmithSo oANNU Project BEDROOM ARMOIRE This is woodworking on a grand scale. But we’ ve streamlined the construction so you'll end up with a project that’s sure to impress. to build. It's just a large plywood box with ply- ‘A The 44" plywood door panels look as good on the inside as ch cuside, To see how this i dome, eum to page 12. Woodsmith No. 143,Construction Details EEE OVERALL DIMENSIONS: eoposedendaran es a Stopped mortise < Alsi dividers Forease ral ss ore identical insetcersia eno sedating ‘Greeaies ninges oor panels are ‘ie plympod set back t back sprees | poss a Bat J} sxe tans, / - to base throug { Saisee, Bea Set? ‘nour [ AC SBE All plywood panels are SiRE Mebepel nse tempered” lone iy with morta.) ‘and tern jones — a ieeires The concealed hinges used here ere easy 0 install and adjust (as described in the box on page 13). And since they open 170°, the doors will never be in the way. No. 143, Woodsmith 7‘A Here's quick yt sxpborva ‘router base when criming elsng fash Fer mone plywood tips, am to page 26. Case With this armoire, the case isthe obvious place to star. And it's pretty easy to see whats goingon. Thepywood sides are joined by six dividers — the top and bot tom panels forming the top and bottom of the case and the other fur ereating the doorand drawer openings. ‘What's a little easier to miss is the hardwood rail at the top of the case. This piece stiffens the case so it ‘wont beas ikely to rack, But more on that in a minate. ‘SIDES & DIVIDERS. The first thing to do is to work on the ides (A) and dividers (B), asin Fig. 1. There are three things to do with each of these plywood panels. First, they need to be cut to final size. (A plywood cut- fing diagram has been included on page 15) Second, you need to glue an oversized strip of '/4'-thick edging (C) to the front edge ‘of each panel, as shown in Fig. 1b, Finally, the edging needs tobe trimmed flush with the faces and ends of the panel, as you can see in the margin photo at left. All three of these steps are common challenges when you're working with plywood, and you'll find a number of solutions for each one in the tip ari beginning on page 25 Dapoes. With all the edging trimmed flush, I did some work on the sides. To hold the dividers, Sst a series af dadoes needs to be cut ceiny® Digan lo ‘cen teal across the sides, And since these panels are too big to handle safely and accurately at the table saw, 1 decided to rout them, asin Fig. 2 ‘The important thing here is to end up with “pairs” of dadoes that a 2 eee DvorR vill ine up across from each other, And to do this, [clamped the side panels together froat edlge to front ‘edge. This way, each pair of dadoes ‘could be routed at the came time, yea MA" straight bit and the edge Ege ‘Woodsmithguide shown, (To make this guide, check out the box on page 27,) 'MORTISES. When the dadoes for the dividers have been routed, there's one more thing to rout. This is a stopped mortise forthe ral that wil bbe added later, as in Fig. 2. You can do this with the same edge guide and router bit you used earlier. But this short mortise only goes from the dado for the top divider to alay- out line. And you'll need to square up the end witha chisel RABIETS. The next thing to do to the sides isto rabbet their back edges to hold 4" plywood backs (Fig. 12). time, i's exsy enough to make the cut a the table saw, with a dado blade buried in an auxiliary fence, TONGUES. Now it’s time to do a tte ‘work on the dividers. All that needs to be done here isto create tongues to fit the dadioes in the side panels. And as you can see in Fig. 4, this is done by cutting some rabbets, ‘ASE Ral, All the panels are com- plete at this point, but before you can assemble the éase, you need to sake the rail (D), asin Fig. 1. This “Mlthick brace is eut the same length as the dividers (34°). It pre- ‘ents the case from racking and will alsoact asa stop forthe doors, Once the rail is cut to size, you ‘can work on the stub tenon on each end. I did this with the piece laying No. 43 own, making multiple passes over a regular blade, es in Fig. 5. Sneak ‘upon the size ofthe tenons so they fitinto the stopped dadoes in the case sides, Just remember that there's no shoulder on top of the rail, asyoucan sec in Fig, Le. ASSEMBLY. With the rail piece com- plete, you're ready to assemble the cease (Fg. 6). Aswith any large case, this is easily the most challenging part of the project, but [have a few pointers that should help al glued toider ond upper divider ‘Woodsnith First unless you have a large, fat Dench, the first thing to dois create ‘temporary worksurface. This can ‘be as simple as a pair of saivhorses and some 2xts, (ry to get them as level as possible) Tlaid one side on the 2x4 and then set the dividers and rail in place. Check tht all the panels are flush along the front edge. Then you canal the second side. (It’s best to havea helper for this step) ‘To apply consistent pressure ‘across the width of the sides, | added crowned cauls, as you can seein Fig. 6. But there's more about this and another assembly tip I used in the plywood article on page 26, Before you apply ary gite, check: tha the dividers aren't sticking past the rabbet in the back, as in Fig, 6b. Also, now's good time to check the case with a square. It’s not square, try repositioning the clampsor rack: ing the cese slightly unt you have it as square as possible. 1 actually ghted up the case in three steps. Firs I glued the rll to the top divider (Fig. €a). Then I glued the side pane! “on top” to the dividers and rail, checking the assembly for square again. Finally, when the giue was dey, [fipped the «sembly over and glued the other side panel in place.Base, Buck, & Top Now that the case is complete, it’s time toworkon the base. Asyou can ‘seein Fig. 7 thisbase isjustfourlexs ‘and rls thatare assembled and then serewed to the bottom of the case through corner blocks. To highlight the base, I darkened it with aniline dye, This isn't at all complicated to do. Plus, there's an article on page 17 to help you oat. Aso, I came up with an optional base that has a slightly diferent look (and different construction), 50 if you'd like to consider this option, turn opage 16 uss. To bulld the base, I staried with the legs (EE), a8 in Fig. 7, Since these legs are short, 1 was able to get all four out of a 2square turning blank Go Jong). But you could also laminate three, "thick blanks together: Regardless, wiat you want to end up with are leg pieces that have been planed down to 154" sqjuare and have been cut 7" ong. With the legs cut to size, the next thing to do is make mortises for the rails, as shown ia Fig. 7e. ike to do this by drilling overlapping holes at the dill press and then cleaning them up with a sharp chisel ‘The only other thing to do is 10 rout 4!'chaters on the ond ofthe legs, I routed all four bottom edges ofeach leg but only the two outside edges on the top end (the ones ‘opposite the mortises). alts. Now its time for the front (P), back (F), and side rails (G) that connect the legs (Fig. 7). ‘They're sized so the legs will stand proud of the case 4, a in Fig. 9b, ‘And tenons are cut on the rails to fit the mortises in the legs (Fig 7a) ‘The only thing lef is to cut the shallow arc on the front ral. I traced the are using a strip of ¥4" hard- board and a couple scrap blocks, as shown in Fig, 7b. Then I cut it out at the band saw and sanded it smooth. ike the legs, the outside edges of the rails are also chamfered (top and bottom), But these chamfers are a little smaller — only ‘hd! instead of "as in Fig. 7. Fhwvoocscrew (intoose) Gomer block Rush with base (eq, SECTION VIEWASSEMBLY. At this point, the logs and rails can be glued together, But there's stil no easy way to connect, the hase to the case— thats the job ‘ofthe corner blocks in Fig. 9 CORNER BLOCKS. To cut the commer ‘locks (H) to size, 1made miter cuts ina 3!/!¥wide blanks, es shown in the left margin. Then I cut a notch to fit around the leg, as shown in Fig. 8, ‘This is easy enough to do by male ing two passes, using an auxiliary miter gauge fence and a stop block to support the pieve, ‘With the notches cut, the only thing left to do is drill countersunk shank holes for attaching the base to the case, asin Figs, 9a and 9. ‘Toaitach each block, I clamped it flush with the top edges ofthe base, ‘Then 1 drilled pilot holes through the block and into the rails, Be ‘careful that you don’t drill through the nals) After applying glue to the edges of the block, it can be clamped back to the base and screwed in place, asin Fig. 9a Screwing the base to the case is a le more awkward than you might think. First, you will need to careful ly turn the case upside down. Then the base can be centered on top of it and screwed down, But if youre planning on staining the base differ No. 143, cent than the case, you'll want to wait to do this until after the finish is dry DIVIDER & BAGS. The next thing | did. was to add a horizontal divider and the upper and lower backs, as ‘you ean see in Fig, 10, ‘The horizontal divider (1) isjust 2%" plywood panel with 14" edging FRONT SECTION VIEW. Tete chamier— sued to the front edge, It serves to reinforce the divider (ifa TV is set on i) and also acts a stop for the doors Because ofthis, i's sized to set back from the front edge of the case “4, as shown in Fig. 10a, ‘The upper (J) and lewer backs (8) are 1" plywood panels cut to fit in the rabbets in the back, As you can see in Fig. 10, Lalo drilled holes inthe lower backso the drawers will be easier to open and shut. ‘The backs will be screwed in place (Figs. 105 and 10c), but like the base, you may want to wait until the drawers have been built and the fine ish has heen applied. oP, Now you're ready to add the top of the case. This is realy just three pieces of molding that wrap ‘around the front and sides. And ike the base, there's also an optional design to consider that will be described on page 16 ‘The only thing to do with the top framt (E) aud sides (M) is to miter them to length so they overhang the case 1/6", asin Fig. 1b, Then routa Ye" chamfer around the outside eciges. But ike the base, youl want tw wall to screw the pieces in place until after the finishing is complete. u2 Doors & Shelves With the base and top in place, the next stepsare to build the doors and then add the adjustable shelf, as you can see in Figs. 12 and 16. Inset doors can be a real challenge. Building them isn’t the problem — they're jst frame and panel assem: blics. What's tricky is hang: ing the doors so there's a consistent gap on each edge (and between the doors). For these inset doors, | decided to use concealed hinges (the European-style ‘ones you ofien see in kitchen cabinets). What makes these. hinges especially nice to work with is that they're fully adjustable, so the installation ismucheaser. Pas, the ones chose open 170%, s0 if you 4o put a TV inside, the doars ‘wonit be inthe way. ‘DOOR PANELS. Since these doors could spend much of their time wide open, I wanted them to. Jook as good on the inside as they. do on the outside, So instead of a single 14 plywood panel, cut two oversized door panels (N) and glued them backeto-back, as indicated in Figs. 12 and 12a. This way, the pan- els ended up with two good faces. 0 center phestetwen | pase Ralls & sTits. With the panels ‘glued together, I sized the door ‘mails (O) and stiles (P),as in Pig. 12. ‘The dimensions given here allow fora 4c! gap on the outsile edges of (but not between) the doors, However, you may want to build them to match the case opening. ‘Thea the doors can be trimmed Frew Cuttenon to ftgroove a ie aa — Tater to create con is especially important if your ease ‘opening isa’ perfectly square.) ‘When the ras and stiles are cut to size, thenext thingtodo is cut the ‘grooves to hold the plywood panels you ghted up cartier, asin Even though you've glued the two 14)" panels together, their combined thickness will be less than 1", so -you'l van‘ to sneak up on the exact width of the grooves until the panel ‘ts snug, And by flipping the pi between passes, the grooves will be centered aunlomaticall, When the grooves are cut, the next steps to cut stub tenons on the ends ofthe rails, as shown in Fig. 14, Again, you'll want to sneak up on the ‘it until the tenons fit the grooves Now that the rails and stiles are complete, you ean dry assemble them and trim the door panels to size s0 they fit into the grooves. ‘Then the doors can be glued up, Shelves, While the glue on the doors was drying, I decided to work con the adlustable shelt, But before cutting it to size, a series of holes will need tobe drilled for the spoon- style pins that the shelfrests on. No. 143Asyou can see in Fig. 15, I driled the holes with the help of a shop- made drilling jig. This a6 wide piece of 14" hardboard with a series of holes drilled 2" apart. Since these holes are centered, the fig ‘works at both the back and front of the case, And the only thing: you have to be careful of is not drilling through the plywood. (The holes should be about %" deep) With the holes drilled, next | eut the adjustable shelf (Q) to size, as shiown in Fig, 16, Like the horizontal divider panel you added to the case ‘eater, this shelf is just a 2" ply wood pane! with 14" edging on the front, and it should be sized to set back from the front of the case 1” and to have 4" gap at each side. ‘MOUNT DOORS. At this point, voulre idy to mount the doors, and the first step is to level the case with shims, (Even a case this big rack some) Then you can sot the doors in the case and check the fit penny at cach bottom corner create a Yi! gap under the door) It also @ good idea to check the aps around the doors. Iithey're not Concealed or Buropeansivie hinges look complicated, but they're really ‘eagytoinstal, And once in place, they can be arfisted in three directions: and out, up and down, and side to side, All with just a screwdriver, ‘These hinges actually come in two parts (which you may need to ‘order separately, as deserihed on page 35). The actual hinge (Shown above) will be attached to the deor 1 snaps onto a mounting plate that ville attached tothe case. ‘The first siep is to mount the ‘Ming half to the door. To do this, No. 14a consistent, youll need to mark them and then sand or trim the edges. Don't worry about the gap between the deorsunti both have been hung, Mounting the hinges is pretty straightforward, and this is covered in the box below. When both doors you'll need a 35mm (1%4") Forstner bit, as in Fig. 1. Lay out the position of the hole ‘carefully and drill a !4"-deep: >, hole (Fig, la). Then you can %//' set the cup of the hinge into y the hole, square it up, and serew itin place. For the mounting plate, simply ‘set the door in place and then reach: in and mark the locations of the mounting holes, as shown in Fig, 2. ‘Then you can remove the plate and screw tin place, again making sure it's square to the edges of the case, Asyou shut the door, you'll proba bly find that you need to make a few adjustments to position the door. ‘There are three screws for making these adjustments — each one mov ing the door in a difierent direction. And asI mentioned, all you need for thisis screwdriver. Woodsmith Ree Ta ty can work on creating the gap betwen the two doors, The hinges are self-closing, so you won't need door catches, just add fit dots ¢o the doors close qu efly (as in the photo on page). Then dri the holes forthe pulls (Pig. 20).A. Unlile the door, there's no fancy hardware for these drawers. They slide in and out ‘on nslon glide tape. Drawers Allthat'sleftto complete the armoire is to build the drawers. As you can ¢ in Fig. 17 above, there are two Szesof drawers here, and they/re all Joined with a locking rabbit joint, as shown in Fig. 17a. ‘IE DRAWER PARTS, The firs thing to dois cut the drawer parts to x (ig. 17). L ade the small fronts and backs (#2) and large fronts ancl backs (1) from *A"thick stock, siz- ing them to match the openings with a "Ae" gap on each edge, (like to use maple for drawer backs and sides because it contrasts nicely, but you can also use cherry or ¢ less ‘expensive wood like poplar) Forthe smal sides (S) and targe sides (U), 1 used Ytthick maple. “The width of the sides will match the front and back pieces, but the length is a litle harder to figure. I simply cut mine 22%" long. This left ‘gap in the back ofthe drawer, which allows room for a couple of drawer stops, as shown in Fig, 17c. tocke Raster Joint. As T men tioned, the drawers are joined with a locking rabbet. Its a fairly strong in that’s cut in three steps. “The first thing to do is cut a slot ‘across the ends of the front and back pieces, as in Fig. 18, The hheight ofthis slot should match the thickness of the sides (1A"). The trick here is holding the long pieces ‘on end as you push them across the dado blade. To help with this, 1 added a tall auxiliary fence. Plus, a backer board will prevent any chipout a the end of the cut ‘The next step is to lay the pieces down and ereate a short tongue, as shown in Fig. 19. To do this, just sneak up on the fence setting until the tongue is i" long (Fig. 19a).‘The last step is to cut the dado on the side pieces (Fig. 20). Here's where you want to use a test picce, But be careful. Ifthe fit is too tight, the small tongue can break Ifyou force the side onto the front, Beiore assembling the drawers, you will need to cut grooves for the 4" plywood bottoms (V), as shown, in Fig. 17, Then when these panels are cut to size (they're all identical), ‘you can glue up the drawers, ‘There are just a few odds and ends left. First, the holes for the pulls can be drilled. (Youll want to ‘wait to add the pulls until ater the finish has been applied.) Then | added nylon glide tape to the case so the drawers woul slide smooth, ly (Pig. 178), And finally, I added a pair of stops (W) behind each draw er Pig, 170). These ae sized so the front of each drawer ends up flush with the case when shut 1 MATERIALS, SUPPLIES & CUTTING DIAGRAM A Sides (2) 4 ply. «23% 64% Lop Front (1) 4x 315-38 B Dividers (6) %4 pl. x 2372-34 M Top Sides (2) ax 3p 25 © Edging %x%- 36 In ft. N Door Panels (4) % ply x 11%5- 27% D Rail (i) 34x3-34 O Door Rais (4) Ux3- 1c E Base Legs (4) 1%XV%-7 P DoorStiies (4) U3 - DH F FronvBack Rails (2) %4x3%e-34 Q Adj. Shelf (1) %4 py x221- 33% G Side Rails (2) Wx Hp-73 H Comer Blocks (4) %x3%-7 + (15) #8x 114" Fh Woodscrews 1 Horiz. Divider (1)34 ply x 2234 33% + (36) #6 x 46" Fh Woodscrews, 4 Upper Back (1) Yapty x 34% - 33/2 + (8) #8 x 115" Fh Woodscrews K Lower Back (1) % pty x 34% -30% uw fs gen QIM ot e6* 96" Maple (459. Ft) * (10) 114* Wood Pulls w/screws: © a ees Cher R it 8* 72" Maple (aad. Fe) ‘Woodemith eue Ieee R Sm, Dwr, Fr/k. (4) 44x 5%- 334% S Sm. Dwr, Sides(4) fox 57-22% T Lg Dwr FriBe. (4) 34x 734 33% U lg. Dwr: Sides (4) 2x 7%- 22% V Dwr. Bottoms (4) Ya ply. x22 - 32% ‘W Drawer Stops (8) UX 3 * (2 pair) 170° Self-Closing Hinges +) %a" Shelf Pins + (1) Nylon Glide Tape (32 In, ft.) + (@) Dia. Felt Dots 5 eerie eeOPTIONAL Top & BASE ‘When building a project, always finishing process is done. But since ce to have afew options, This way, you'll want fo glue (aswell 28 screw) ‘youcan choose those details thatwill the pieces in place, Jook best in your home, And some. to the expoved areas. times, these options inspire you to When it was time to attach the come up with afew ofyourawnideas. pieces, I simply glued and screwed With thatin mind, here are a cou- them in place one ata time (Fig. 1a). ple of design options you might ASE, Unlike the top, the proce- want to consider for the top and dure for the optional base is quite a base of the bedroom armoire, Dit different than the origin. Tor. Asyoucan seein the photoat Instead of legs and rails, there are Jeit, the optional top has more ofa front and side aprons that wrap traditional, builtup look, This is around a plywood panel, asin Fig. 2 done by adding two layers of mokd- You'll want to start with the ing instead offustione, asin Fig. 1. aprons. They're mitered to length The first layer of molding is so the base stands proud ofthe ease mitered to overhang the ease 94'on 3! on the front and sides. Then a the front and sides, as in Fig. 1a, rabbetis cut on each inside edge to (The sides are squared off flush hold a" plywood panel, and a 34" with the back.) Then I routed a 14" _roundover is routed on each outside cove profile on each piece. edge, leaving, af" square shoulder ‘The procedure fortheupperlayer (Fig. 2a).’The last thing to do is lay sthesame—the deals out and cut the curves (Fig. 2). are just slightly different (Fig. 1a). Next, the plywood panel can be For starters, the blanks are wider cut to fitinto the rabbets. Then a and overhang the first layer only back piece is cut to it under the 1/", And instead of a cove, the top panel and between the sides. layer gets a ‘When gluing up the base, I decid: Ifyou are planning on finishing ed to add ‘square blocks to the top and base darker than the strengthen the corners. And like the se, ats shown here, youll want to tog, 1 applied the finish before wait to attach the toppicces untilthe screwing the base to the case. OY NOTE: Fine = ae win before gang, rant comme and'xroveng to te Pmitered just apply finish