eR els Bookeasem ‘A Publication of August Home PublishingApril, 2002 Donald B. Pesciike ‘Terry J. Strohmen Jon Guibison Brian McCallum Craig Ruegsexner Todd Lambirth David Kreyling Dirk Ver Stee Harlan V. Clark Jonathan Bike ee Pali ag ehcrtnr ni Saree ea tse ae i ie te a sn se a Puen! Oe Ir erence tote Cr fects fence Not hon Brae prns Div D att some Sert NeTohe ee hun Aadete Alin Ast! Suey tae Tasty hn 5 Mor: Datatts chet Manse Tim Theles * Sale Stage Actes ine Mtn Si on es bese oe a eee ele ou 7a tg sain Canad — near SAWDUST ite often we think of woodwork: ing as a very traditional type of ‘activity. And Lagree it has a wore erful rich history. Butwhen you think about it, i’s really as much about ‘change as itis tracition, For centuries woodworkers have modified and changed the types of Joinery they use. Furniture styles have evolved and changed over the years. Not to mention the tools used. to build the projects, Even today, this idea of change rruns through every project we build here at Woodamith. We start with @ basic idea of what we want. Then we ‘male numerous changes to the proj ect before it appears in the magazine. But the process doesn't end there. Once you start building a project the change continues. You may cchange the type of wood or modify the siyle. You might decide on differ ent hardware or use a different type Cf jpint. In short; you build the project to suit your needs. And that's how it should be — its the tradition, ‘The trouble is sometimes you may think about changing a project, but you're not quite sure how it vill look. To make this process 1 bit easier, we're showing you how the feature project, the Sofa Table Bookcase, would look with a couple of different door options — glass and solid wood, ‘Woodsmith Were aso giving you sn online opportunity to oe how this proest would look if built ina different wood ate wth diferent Hardware. Just go to www.Woodsmith.com and check outhe Online Extras, DoA8o oF ADVS0RS, Desdes looking tomake beter projects, wee always investigating ways 10. Improve Woodsmith and make it more useful. Tp do this, were setting up an Online Board of Advisors vil be rad GU lady oot cio aul lve us their opinion of Woodsmath For mdré information en belag park of this group, see the box below. are interested in pyeoch to belag apart of a magazine, we're looking foranedtor ojcin ushere atAiguat Home Publishing. If you're enthusi- astic about woodworking or home iiaiepvenientand exiey erking’ ia part of a team, then we'd like to hear from you. Send a cover eter und a resume highlighting your experience to: M. Sigel, 2200 Grand Ave., Des. Moines, 1A 50812, Or snd an email tormsigel@augusthomecom., No. 140CONTENTS Features Sofa Table Bookcase Featuring solid-wood construction anu a dis long, low bookcase will fi great behind as ou see it with sime opti ould go just about any Frame & Raised Panels .. onstruction i one ofthe halla offine And with ewo shop-tesied methods for making you'll be rrning out perfect frame and panel assemblies in no ue. Adjustable Floor Lamp ...... .22 This one.of-a-kind floor lamp can be adjusted by loosening a small swoed knob and raising or lowering its center column, Its a unique 9D featare that doesn't requie ang tricky joinery or special hardseare. Trouble-Free Half Laps........ : 28 Half laps are strong, quick, anu versatile. In shor, they've a great wey to join two pieces or bu a frame. Here, we'll walk you through the acess from setup to assembly Frame & Panel Storage Tables ......... 30 With solid-wood frame and panel assemblies on all four sides, this accent table looks good from any angle. And under the lift-off lid, x soul find lows of practical storage space Aajvatible Floor Lamp Page. Departments Tips & Techniques................0..ccccs 4 Shop Notes Sources “Frasie 6 Paral Siorage Tables tage 30 No. 140 Woodsmith 3 ——__ reFrom FELLOW WOODWORKERS Tips & TECHNIQUES FREE Online Tips If you'd Ike ever ‘more woodwork- ing tpo, he sol- ‘ion is. simpbe. Juststusetour vee | Finishing Carousel Heetpuaoran) No matier how you seta ceived project when applying fn- ish, it seemsthere’sahvays part of it that can’t be reached. This finishing ‘carouselallows me to rotate a project so I can reach each side. And a set of pointed pegs lifts the work- piece so I can even get to the bottom surfaces. ‘As you can see in the draying, the carousel is just two pieces of plywood. with a coffee can lid in Moesobe sight OP ieher of test piece Detiveen them to serve as ‘a “bearing.” (My carousel is 18" in diameter, but ‘easy to make it any size you need.) A piece of pegboard on top of the plywood plat form serves as a template when drilling holes for the pegs. Plus it adds a bit of extra support to the pegs. ‘The base is just a square cut to fit inside the circle [cut offthe corners so wouldn't catch my fin- Stock Centerline Ta Woodemith 137, you had tip about using the drill press to find the center ofa ‘workpiece. Here's an even easier way that only requiresdiling wo holes. Just seribe a line across ‘ates piece that’s the same width as your workpiece (Gee drawing). Then place the test piece againet the fence and drill a hole on the line, Now fip the piece around and drill a second hole on the line, Where the holes interscet isthe centerline (etal'a). Dang Pier Calfpmia City, Caforia Woodsmith Machine srew— = © wore’ Give pegboard fe tena <0 Gren shope Dease for gers on them when I was turning the carousel, ‘The pieces are joined with a machine serew and nut [drilled a countersink: in the top of the pegboard for the head of the screw erst > countersink note / termine ret tee can ridservesos ‘Bey susan "bering? ‘and counterbored the ply- ‘wooil base for the rut The pegs are lengths of dowel sharpened in a pencil sharpen Ernest Becker Lacey, Washingen Flexible metal Dryer Duct Dust Pick-up Isnotabways easy to zeta dust collector pick-up where you want one, I found thata section offlex- ible metal dryer duct will fitperfectly ontothe flange around my blast gates. As youcan seein the drawing, the duct ean be positioned where its needed. Don Sends, Midlond, Mickigm No, 140Swing-Away Arm In my shop, there was just ho easy (and safe) way 10 set an exiension cord and a dust collection hook-up where I wanted them and then easily move them out, oft way when wasdone, ‘Then came up with the idea of hanging them from a hinged boom, That ‘way T could swing ther to my work area when 1 needed povrer oF dust cob lection and swing them back out ofthe way when the job wes finished, ‘As you can see in the drawing, the arm is made of 2ets with a plywood brace to reinforce the nee joint. A couple of Dutt hinges fasten the arm to mother 2x4 that is anchored to the wall, The extension cord and dust collection hose are attached to the arm with some zip ties threaded through eyelet screws, Since the cord and hose no longer lay on the floor, I don't trip over them — ‘and I don't have to bend ‘overto hook up atool. Dennis Rebertion Bremer, Washingon 1 our ory ie Zip tes through ‘Gele erens | Ue aT If you have an original shop tip, we would like to hear from you and con- sider publishing your tip in one or more of our publications, Just write down your tip and mail it to: Woodsith, Tips and Techniques, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, Towa £0312, Please include your name, address, and daytime phone number in case we have any questions. If you ‘would like, FAX it to us at 5152826741 Or send us an email message at: woort- ‘smith@woodsmitl.com. We will pay up to $200 if we publish your tip. No. 140. —_—— Under-Bench Paps Justlike in most shops, my workbench gets used for everything from layout to ste ups to finishing. But I don’t want each of these jobs leaving their mark on my bench. So T came up with an easy way to keepa disposable “tablecloth” right at my fingertips. [ound a roll of contrac tor’s paper at the home center and hung it under- neath my bench, as you can see inthe photo at left ‘The paper i suspended Hanger hanging bicycles up out of the way. The hooks are spaced just far enough apart to allow the roll of paper to turn freely, T put a dowel through the core of the contrac tor's paper 0 it would hang on the hooks like a roll ef paper towels Now whenever I get ready to do something messy, [just rollout some paper: When Tim done its easy to tear off the dirty paper and throw it away on a couple of large Cra Lee hooks, typically used for Aletancie, Vigna QUICK TIPS SANDING SLEEVES POURING SPOUT ‘ve ruined more thanone sand: ing sleeve and scraped more than one knuckletrying to sep. arate the sleeve from the drum, Tame up with a solution as close as the kitchen, Before sliding the drum onto the sleeve, I rub corn starch on the drum and inside the sleeve, When it’s time to change grits, the sleeve is slip-on copper cap seals the much easier to rempve. tube for storage. Joo Kijanczye Bil Jones Menor, Ohio Okotoks, Abeta, Canada ‘Woodamith ‘This spout helps water-based contact cement astlonger and makes it easier to use since you can pour itwhile the lid is stllon the can, To make the spout, Just remove the lid s0 you can dri a hole init. Then epoxy a piece of copper tubing in place. ANUON ba)Ie34 SOFA TABLE BOOKCASE _ A sofa table with built-in storage or a long, low bookcase? Any way you look at it, this is a great project to build. ees sete ee ue other items. But many of the sofa Se tables, The space under the top was ee ane oe =e ee lt: cuece maybe is a full six feet long). But now, you have much more room for storing books and other éisplay items. DESIGN OPTIONS. Of course, no reason this bookcase lias to sit behind a sofa. Il look great in a variety of settings. Infact, its @ pretty versaile project. And as you can see in the photos at right, its look really changes by adding doors. Or to make the bookease even more formal looking, you can build it out of cherry. (Well even give you a ‘sneak peak at what this would loole there's Woodsmith ‘on our'web site, referto the “On- line Extras” box om page 7.) STRAIGHTFORWARD CONSTRUCTION. If you're concerned aboutthe difficulty Of this project, you needa’t be. The joinery is all quite basic. The end assemblies are held together with stub tenon and groove joints. The face frames with half Taps. (And there are technique articles for both of these joints on pages 16 and 28) ‘And believe it or not, when i's time to assemble the case, youwon’tneed single long clamp, No, 40Construction Details aoe OVERALL DIMENSIONS: ee Top overhangs case 4 i or aise 72°W x 18°D x 30°H FACE FRAME End asombly ipanele are — “Sticke = \ == Divider assombly = fits into dco Bottom panel — Ec: shown on poge 14 a ct et oe sacs tated ier once cena casas / ace ues / hoe rises tae Eerie eaten a ease pete easel iene, errs eae oe oe meee ‘wood end with ferent harc- ‘ware? You can frig ou The woed- paneled doors here give the bookcase a solid, ‘abiner-lke fel. And they're easy to buald cand mowet to the case. Reade pass panels soften the loc and sive ahint of what's inside the bookcase. You'll find one how easy these doors are obi on jae 4, ‘Woodsmith 7mice | | eno view rain : Ae, ms Ge | ye ,g ROTE curve ct ater } ; hue wore 1J6 sub teronsand gros le . feme nd pmol ' are B tick eee End & Divider Assemblies Forthis bookcase, decided to build length, but the upper (8) and lower 1¢ and 1. (For some step-by-step the two end assemblies and the end ails (C) and the divider raids instructions on frameand panel con- divider assembly at the same time, (F) areal the same length (11%4"). _ struction, turn to page 16.) asyou can seein Fig. 1 The joinery SUS TENONS & GRODVES. With the $040 WooD Panet, With the stub isthesame,soyou can saveyourself frame pieces cut to size, you can tenons and groovescut, you can glue alot of setup time. But the dimen- work on the stub tenons and up the panels that ft inside these sionsofthedividerpivces are slightly grooves that join the frames This is _ frames. From the outside, these are different, so you have to keep the basi frame and panel construction, lat, inset panels, as you can see in pieces orianized and labeled clearly. The only thing to mention is that the margia photos atright. But did RAMS. The fist thing to dois eut since the panels are going to be not want to end up with large gaps the frame piecesto size, asin Fg. 1. solid wood (instead of" plywood), between the shelves and the in ‘The cud stiles (A) and divider the grooves (and tenons) can be cut of the case, 90 the '/ thick solid stiles (B) are different in width and full" wide, as indicated in Figs wood end panels (D) have a “raised peace fielo” on their inside faces (Fig, 1b). am, ‘And since the divider panel (G) a) bi] [ENOVEW) | needs to be tush with both faces of z ere | ae its frame, itis thick and has the Zs || vanes) \| | ‘raised feta” on both faces. s Hie et | rasntt, However, these aren't tra ORs t ditional raised panels. The “raised z field” is created by cutting rabbets, ZA le ie asin Fig. 2. These form the tongues Dado NOTE Rabbots cit on a that fit into the grooves in the frame ee ae pieces. (The rabbeis are actually axe A extra wide, s0 the panel ends up e Woodsmith No. 140with a 14" shadow line around its “raised field.”) And when it’s time to cut the rabbets on the "thick divider panel, double-check the height of the blade to make sure the tongues going to fi ia the grooves LOWER END RAIL, Before you beet gluing up the assemblies, there's ‘one snore thing to do — cut a curve ‘on the bottom edge of the lower end rails (ig. 1a). To lay out this curve, T bent a narrow strip of ¥4" hard- board and traced it onthe rail. Then the curve can be roughed out with a band saw or sabre saw and sanded smooth, (used! a drum sander) ASSEMBLY. These assemblies are really quite straightforward. But there are a couple of things to note. To “lock” the panel in place while still allowing it 10 expand and con- tract, I placed a small dab of glue in the groove at the center of each ‘Then with all three assemblies, I inserted 1/!thick spacers between the panel and frame, as shown in Fig. 3. This kept the “raised field” of the panel centered in the frame ‘opening until the glue dried, For the end assemblies, I focused ‘on the fop edges, making sure they were flush, Then as the glue was drying, I cut small filler strips (#1) to fill the grooves below the lower eee Tired tele" falls, as indicated in Figs. 3 and ab, You can either glue them in flush or leave them a little long and trim them with a handsaw and sand them flush with 2 sanding block: (0905 & 1Ns. There are afew ods and ends left to do before these assemblies are complete. First on the end assemblies, I routed Yi" chamfers on ail the edges (except for the top edges), asin Fig. 4. ne | OTE: ie u ‘semi wil fap eages tush Trim and sarc ther stip fash th ste Next, [cut "deep groovesalong, the front and back edges of the end assemblies. (I did this at the table saw, as in Fig. 5.) These grooves should be wide enough to hold the Em eelbick face trames later on. Finlly, lay out and drill the holes for the shelf pins, as 6 The holes in the end assembites are 94" deep. Butthe holesin the divider go allthe way through, A. From the ouside these Wok lie lt ow Nore vlesn sic trough holes P| 4 tthe ide My mae faces have been on rabheted so thae the frames and | pons are flch | { a inside the cave |e | no ele ode Heal e noe |e wee tBack foc fae nore: irs aut dential Alipecer to font frame. racername are thick ‘Goren nal ce nore tigmodtoterg |merem Je | 2 — tlngt ul e tovepenn ther eneoiect oh. ‘ee Face Frames At this point, the end and divider in Fig. 7b. The final length of the LOWER RAK CURVES. With the half assembliescanbe setaside while you center siiles will depend on the lapseut,you can create the curve on ‘work on the face frames that willbe curves youll eut in the lower rails, each lower rail just like the end santwiched betweentheassemblies butmakingthemallthe samelength assembly rails. Only this time, 1 ALS AND STS, The first thing; to now will save you an extra setup saved a small section ofthe cutoff dois cutthe frame pieces to size, as when working on the half laps next. piece. Then after assembly, you can in Fig, 7 above, You'll need two ALF IAPS. The half laps that join trace andl cut the curve on the cen- upper (D) and two lower rails (J). the face framesinclude end lapsand ter stile Fig. 9) and use the cutoff ‘And when cutting the end stiles (K) cross laps (Fig. ). Both can be cut to sand the stile fush (Fig. 9). ‘and center stiles (L) to size, Lmade quickly on the table sav, as shown When gluing up the t¥o face them ail the same length (2944!),as in Fig. 8 and the article on page 28, frames, I concentrated on the rails 4. AS woodworking joinss go, half laps are prey base Ree Buc cuing them Pe) or Tina hes ont bea callerge —oyasemtie 2 ‘ce irae Or hale imbadice 73 Tern wo page 28 for afew tips you can use when building these face frames. Sanding black fom curve cutort Wesand end stiles frst. Then you can alue the centerstilesin place, A sarr0m rane. Next degan ging up the bottom panel (11), as shown in Fig. 7. This is long panel, s0 to help Keep the pieces aligned, you may want to use splines or biscuits, ‘When cut to length, the panel should fit between the end assem- blies, and its best to dry assemble the case for this meesurement. (To see how I did this, turn to page 21) To find the pants width, first measure between the face frame srooves on an end assembly. Then cut the panel 9" widerso il into Yf-deep grooves that wil be eut in the face frames (Figs, Zand 1). ‘The last step forthe bottom panel is focuta centered dado 4" deep to hold the divider assembly. To do this, Tused the table sew with an anxiary miter gauge fence to sup- portthe pice, as shown in Fig 10. Now there are just two steps let before the case can be assembled, First, I eut a groove along each My ere altotod te botom pane, a3 you can see in Tig. 11. Then on the back face frame, I routed 54’. wide rabbets to hold the %4" ply- wood backs later, a in Fig. 12, ASE ASSEMELY. I put the case together in two stages, starting with te assembly on its back Firs, the hack face irame is clamped between the end assemblies, Then you ean add the boitom panel (without glue) and the upper face frame, Before the giue dried, I set the ‘case upright and started on the sec ond stage, as in Fig. 13. All you need to do here is add the divider assem- bly, but the dado in the bottom isthe are hops patton der aecombly only thing that positions the divider. So I used a square to make sure the divider was vertical. Then I secured itwith screws through the back and the bottom. (Use only a single, cen- tered screw in the bottom so the Dotiom can expand and contrac.) val sx2'm nore pean fede sero, Casita, ‘ack Bottom panel) No. 140 ‘Woodsmithsinge, NOTE; Bocks attached Want" Rh ih long boss no woedcrew Sfterfrishieappied Cle: are thick Grdwasher ser ee Forswcuring a Bottom panel > eee ee Backs, Top, & Shelves Unlessyou plan to build theoptionsl to the bookease. This way, you can panels aren't exactly the same. The doors (page 14), all that left to acd apply the finish from both the front bottom panel is trapped atthe front aretthe backs, top, and shelves. The and back of the case. and back by the grooves in the face ‘wo backs are 1" plywood. The ton GATS. Before working on the top frames, So the bottom cleat gets a ‘and shelves are%"solid wood panels. panel, decided toad some mount- single, centered mounting hole, BACK PANELS, The back panels fit ing cleats (Q), as shown in Fig. 14. On the other hand, the top pane! {nto the rabbets already cutin the These cleats are simply 1%'-wide just rests on top of the case. So to back face frame, (The rabbets had pieces cut tofitbeteenthetwoface secure this panel and help hold it to be routed before assembly framesinsie the case, lt, I drilled mounting holes at the ‘because the overlapping end panels made five cleats in a Three will ends of each cleat, as in Fig. 15b. prevent you ‘rom routing them after secure the top panel. (The center Just be sure that these holes are assembly. As youcan seein Fig. 14, cleat can be attached to either side oversized s0 the solid wood panel simply cut the belt pancle (N) to of the divider assembly) The other will tll be able to expand and con: fit into the rabbets two cleats add supportto the ends tract freely, (I drilled %d"la, ‘The backs will be atiached with ofthe bottom panel, asin Fig.14b. mounting holes here) 'Y)Mtong brads, as in Fig. 14a Buti’s ‘The only thing I need to mention TOP PANEL & SHEIVES. The last bit of a good idea to leave the panels off about these cleats is thatthe mount- wor io dois tomake the solid wood until after youve applied the finish ing holes for the top and bottom panels for the top (P) and the two MATERIALS & SUPPLIES A End Stiles (4) %x2Wz-29%4 M Bottom Fanel (1) Ux Ale 6615 B Upper End Rais (2) Ux2-11% N Back Panels Q) a py -31%6x21 © Lower End Rails (2) UX42-11% 0 Cleats (5) KV %e- 13% D End Panels (2) Yex10%-20%6 P Top Pane! (1) Wx 18-72 E Divider Stiles (2) YX 1¥%-22%4 Q Shelves (2) Wx A3e- 304% F Divider Rais (2) WK2- 1% G Divider Panel (1) x11 %- 19% + (11) #8 x2" Fh Woodscrews HH Filler Strips (4) Wax Ye- 24a 1ah, * (3) #8.x 1/2" Fh Woodscrews ‘NOTE: 1 Face Frame Upper Rails (2) %4x2-G7 = (8)'4" Spoonsstyie Shelf Pins. Materia and 4. Face Frame Lower Rails (2) x= 67 + B) HBX 114" Rh Woodscrews PSI K Face Frame End Stiles (4) x VWh- 29%» (8) #8 Flat Weshers: ‘we listed on L Face Frame Center Sties(2) 14x 134-294 = (1 pg) Ye"-Long Brads ;nore: ror Topcentered on Orhne. base ith 3 overhang on asides is ta Shankroie chamfer Tope shoves in ron a Top ane elves are iethick adleed after finkh sis wood ‘sopplcd shelves (Q), a8 you can see in Fig. ‘Theshelvessimplyrest on poon- apply the finish before you attach 15, Like the bottom panel, using syle shel pins (Fig. 152). The top ether the doors or te top. (simply kerfs orbiscuits to keep everything panel is screwed through the brushed on several thin coats of a aligned will probably save vou some mounting cleatsyou zlded earier, varnish, bat you could use a poly- planing or sanding later oa, And Butbefore adding eifher of ese urethane or walerbused finish (0) ‘when you have the panels flat and ta the case, youll want to build the In fat, the top willbe less likely to cuttofengthallthat lefts to routa doors, That's because doors are eas- warp ifyou apply the same number M 14e' chamfer on all their edges, as ierto mountifyou have access from of eonis to the underside of the indicated in Figs, 1baand 15b. the top. Pus, its generally best to pane! before srewingitin place CUTTING DIAGRAM 4ét x6" - 96" Hard Maple (4 Ba. Ft) = A A € Sie We 6-96" Hord Maple (486. Ft) Bre E 7 © @ @ ie oO So ° 4" $6" Hard Maple (Tro Boards @ 2.7 Bd. Fe Each) SLL 44! x5° 90° Hard Maple Pour Boards @ 3.3 8 Ft. Each) Z 3 5-6" Hard Nal arc 02.38 Eth) Z > 26 15°72" hard ple Tree Board @ 5B Fe Eas) Ms ALSO NEEDE ™ ores 1 15°72: Hard aple Tre Boards @ 2564 Exh) Bec I Q Q No. 140 Woodsmith B EEE ———————eeA These doors are easy to build whether you use ales (above) or wood (page 7) for the paves, The doors here feanwre 2 thick reeded ass thar was pur chased t a local lass shop wooo rane. ‘SPTiON. 4 Optional Doors With many projects, adding doorsincreasesthelevd ofcom plexity. The joinery i different ‘geting the doors mounted cor rectly can be tricky. Not here. These doors are built just like the end and divider assemblies you made ‘earlier, And when it’s time to mount them, you'l find that these overlay doors are rela tively easy toattach fo the case — bist more on thet later, FRAME Picts, To build the doors, the first thing to do is work on the frame. They're sized to overhang thecase 1! on each edge with ajc! ‘gap between the doors, asin Fig. 1b. (My doors were 15%4"'x 2044") ‘The length of the siiles (A) is easy iocome up with, Justald 4"to the height of the case opening. The ‘roils (B) ace @ bit more work. You have to take into account the widths (fall four stiles, the stub tenons on the rails, and the 1" that the door ‘overlaps the case. (At this point, I dida’t worry about the %e" sap between the doors. ike to trim the edges between doors after they've ‘been mounted to the case.) GROOVES & STUB TENONS. With the frame pieces cutto siz, the grooves and stub tenons can be cut, as in Fig 1a And as | mentioned earlier, this is identical to those you cut on the end assemblies, refer to page 8. PANES. Ifyoure building the Wood panel doors (hown on page 7), then now's the time to make the panels (C), (The dimensions for these are given in the margin at left) For ‘2ias5 doors, its best to order the glass after the frames have been assembled so you can have the pan- els cut to match the actual openings (minus 14"in cach direction). ASSEMBLY. At this point, the door framescan be assembled (and wood panels, if you're using them). But before installing the doors, you nced to cut rabbets on three edges Of the door to alow itto fit into the case, as in Fig. 2, (The center edges where the doors meet should be square.) It's probably good to note from the restof theproject, and © Note: Gonterstles med o Nore: Doorissced foavetion eileen each edge nore: Order gloss Sher fame. irxorflec foe pa ‘or focrees nce, reesuinging NOTE: Grooves cut nal frame pisces + Woodsmiththat these rabbets are oversized 80 Bo there's some “breathing room.” For ihe glass-pancled doors, you also need to rout a rabbet around the inside ofthe frames, as shown in 3 Fig. 3. This just removes the inside shoulder of the groove, so you can ff al the glass later (Fig. 3). MOUNTING DOORS, Now the doors |p arereatly o be mounted tothe case. |p As you can sce in Fig. 4, I set the |) case on its back so I coud just lay each door in place, Then I marked the center ofthe case opening. ‘After attaching the hinges to a door, set it on the case and make sure the gaps at the fop and bottom are the same, as in Fig. 4b. Then you can reach inside and mark the position ofthe hinges on the case. But before removing the door, talc a minute to lay out fow marks, First, you can transfer the center of the case to the door aie (top and bottom). This will help you create the sap between the doors later on. Second, i also a good idea to mark the position ofthe door on the case, wore: Famer soind rae tthmming center sole 10% oe ee ety sovcacaon back = Make gop" heresomne at topendbotom as in Fig. Ab. This way, ile easy to align the second door tothe frst. After you've trimmed the center stile ofeach door, you ean chamfer the edges of the doors (Fig. 4a). ‘A Nicket hinges are ‘Then the finish can be applied, and hard to come by, the hardware added. The magnetic $0 for tis booke catches are mounted toa small cleat ease, Fought (D) that’s ghd into the ease, as in brass hinges, ig. The assis held in place with scuffed them uith mall pieces of glass atop (B), a 400- git sandpaper, shown in Fig. 5, And finally, the and spray paved knobs can be added to the inside them silver. sles (Figs, 1 end 1b), 19 MATERIALS, SUPPLIES & CUTTING DIAGRAM A Door Stiles (@) 46x 2%4- 20% + (Apr) %4" Inset Free- Swinging Hinges (painted silver) B Door Rails 8) 4x 24-12 + (@) Satin Nickel Door Pulls © Door Panels (4)* Pax \Vie- 16% + (4) Magnetic Catches, Strikes, & Screws Door Catch Cleats (2) UX%-6 + (1.pkg.)1e’-Long Brads** E Glass Stop** Max Ja~ 260mm.» (4) ie” KI 176" - 1676" Reeded Gass Panels"* * Need for Wood-Panded Deoss ** Nec for Glss-Faneled Doors 6° - 96° Hac Maple (8 Fe) A A = == . ie 55° «60° Harel Maplo (2.1 Be. Ft) Dit 5" 60" Hard Maple (Fotr Roarse@ 21 Sa Ft Each) 8 eee 7 aes € yj No. M40 Woodsmith 15WooDWORK PUT NTOe: FRAME & RAISED PANELS Build professional-looking raised panels in your shop? You bet. The frame is simple, and there are two options for making the raised panels. ame and panel construction has always been one ofthe best solu. tions in a woodworker's “bag of tricks" Afterall, what beter way is there to deal with the problem of ‘wood movement? You cant stop a solikwood pane! from expanding and contracting, so you have t allow for this movement — otherwise, the joints will work loose ove time. DESIGN NOTES, The idea behind a fraine and panelissimple enough. A frame is built with grooves cut onits inside edges, as shown inthe photo at right and in Fig. 1 below. These srooves trap the beveled edges ofa solid-wood panel, The panel is cut slightly smaller than the depth between the grooves, leaving small part ofa box or case (like the stor: the hinged side of the frame, and szaps inside, asin Fig. 1a, This way, age tables on page 30), there isn't youmight wantto consider building thepanelis free to expand Gnd con- going to be a lot of stress on the fame that’s stronger. Refer tothe tract), while the overall assemably joints. So Tcut stub tenons tot the box on the next page.) remains stable and strong, ‘grooves. They’re plenty strong — PANEL. The other thing you need FRAME STRENGTH, OF course, there's and they're quick too, as youlllfind to consider is the style of raised abit more to it than that, For one _outon the next page. panel that you're after. Ifyou like thing, you have to decide how However, when you're building the look of a flat bevel (as shown in strong the frame shoukl be. When doors, it’s not quiteso cut and dried. the photo above), then you can do the assembly is going to become There can bealot more pressure on ll the work of creating the raised profile at the table saw. Or to really dress up the panel, you can buy a raised-panel bit with a curved pro- file and do the work at the router fable. (More on that on page 19.) NOTE: Grooves cut in ail frmepeces Stub tenons cut tofitgrootes FRAME When building 2 frame and panel assembly, generally like to tart with the rails and stiles ofthe frame. And often, Il build this frame with stub tenon and groove joints, GRODVES. After the frame pieces have been cut to size, the first thing todo is cut the grooves, 8 shown in Fig. 2 above right. ‘These grooves NOTE: Frame is'-enick, are centereil on the inside edges of anelcan be f2"0r %" tk all four frame pieces, (Centering the 16 Woodsmith No. 140,‘grooves makes the stub tenons eas! er to cut later) And when working TY _ with solidsvood panels, I cut these grooves so the stb tenons could be ccuta full 4" long. Maybe you've noticed by now that Teut the ¥itavide grooves with a regularblale Fig,2) Youccould use dado blade, but you'l spend more time centering it, Instead, I stare with the blade roughly centered on the piece,‘Then I cut each groove in {wo passes, flipping the piece end for-end before the second pass, This automatically centers the groave. Usually, I will have to bump the fence over and repeat this process to get the groove close to 1" wide But the width docsnt have to be exact. I's easy enough to sneak ap on the size ofthe stub tenon Iter, STUB TINDKS. When the grooves have been cit, the two siles ofeach frame can beset aside wile you cut the stub tenons on the ends ofthe rails, Ike to cut each shoulder in a ingle pass over a dodo blade, as Mp stownin Fig. 3. But you coud do this ina few passes over a regular blade. Fither way youll want to sup- port the pieces with an auxiliary fence screwed to the miter gauge To set up the cut, use one of the grooves I just cut. First the saw blade is raised to match the shoul- der ofthe groove, asin Fig, 3a. Then the fence ean be positioned so the length of the tenon will match the tush te groove | ‘thoulder Ausiiay = miter ga END VIEW Depth of groove full depth of the groove (Fig. 3b) Still you'll want to test your setup, In fact, youll probably need to adjust the height of the blade, 1 shoot for a friction fit, which means Haunch on tenon, fil groove nse No. 140 LS __ _ = _ RAISED PANEL DOORS: DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS ‘When you're building a door, you have t make sureits goingtocarry its own weight. You don't want to end up with adoor that falls apart. SMALL DOORS. Surall doors, like ‘he optional ones on the bookcase {page 6), are small enough that you can still use stub terion and ‘rove joinery. (The glue will he plenty strong to bold ittogether) LARGE DOORS, However, if the door is much larger (especialy if ‘ths a glass pane), then you're Detter off with a stronger frame. Td recommend a hauncied mor- Woodsmith the pieces nerd to be pressed together with hand pressure, But don't make the fit too tight, or the ‘tub tenons can end up breaking the shoulders of the grooves. {ise and tenon, as shown at leit. Here, the tenon has an extra shoulder (haunch) to fi the groove in the stile. Step-by-step. instructions for this joinery are ‘available on our web site. For eails turn to page 35) SAW BLADE. Since a frame's Join- ery may be seen at the top and ‘bottom of the door, there's one more thing to note. If you use a blade with beveled teeth, youll ‘enilup with Gay gapsatter assem- ‘bly, see margin. So Tuse a blade that cutsa latbottomed kerf THE Best BLADE | FOR THE JOB saw blade with beveled teeth wil cut 4 groove that ens up sith tiny gaps ater the stub tenon has been glued in place. E SES Assaw blade thar cuts 4 flacbowcmed herf sul give you the best fit when it’s time to ‘alu the stub tenon {nwo the groove. raA A flar-beveled, raised panel is easy to create with usta table saw and a simple, shop-made sed. NOTE: visusly ‘heck that astembly ‘sot end reposition camps iinecesiory B With the frame pieces complete, itstime to work on te panel. Before, the goal wasto end up with astrong frame. Now the focus ison the Ico of the panel Afterall, this pane! is ‘eoing to get athe attention, so when ‘gluing it up, you want to take care that the grain matches wel. PAIEL SIZE. That’s not to say the fit of the penel isnt important. [cut it to final size so it would fit between the grooves in the frame with a '4" ‘gap on each edge, as in Fig. 7a below. This way, the panel will have plenty of rom to expand. ‘TABLE SAW OR ROUTER TABLE. You can ‘create the raised field on either the table caw or the router table, With the table saw method, you probably have everything you need already, but you're limited to a flat bevel. To rout them, you'll ned arased-panel bit. Gee next page.) When using the table saw, [ like the raised field to be fush (or nearly flush) with the front of the frame (Pig. 7a). This Keeps the bevels 2s flat as possible 30 there will be less ‘of a chance the panel will wedge itself nto the groove as it expands. BanBET, With a thick panel, keeping the faces flush is no trou- ble. But with a "thick pane, ike the ones on the storage tables on page 80, [rabbet the back of the panels first, asin Fig. 4 Simply the rabbet to match the shoulder of the groovesin the frames (Fig. 4a). SHOULDER CUTS. After the rabbels have been eat, you're realy to bevel the front face. But as you can see in Fig. 5, the first thing I ike to do is MOTE: Centex panel in Fame oper reboot ‘front of papel vl eth with frame ‘NOTE: | boilngsies \ sen page 20 = make some scoring passes to estal- lish the shoulders ofthe raised field. ‘This helps create a nice square Shoulder and makes ita litle easier to set your blade forthe bevel cut. EVEL CUTS. The panel i beveled by running iton edge across the blade with the blade fied slightly cay from the rp fence, Soto support the piece, you'll need a tall auxiliary fence or asled. (Here, Lused a shop- made sled, see Fig. 6 and page 20) When setting up the cut, the blade should be a hair below the shoulder ofthe raised field. And you'll want to sneak up on the position of the rip fence until the panel fits into the grooves in the frame and you have the right-sized shoulder on the raised fetd (yi ly about iA", as in Fig, 6a). ‘When you're done, you may need to clean up the shoulder abit with a Sharp chisel, and the bevels will also likely have some saw marks that need to be sanded away. Woodsmith ASSEMBLY ‘There's nothing particulary dificult about gluing and clamping a frame and raised panel. But there are some {important things to note. First of all, i's always best if you can finish a solid-wood panel before the frame is assembled around it. ‘This way, there won't be any unin ished areas that could be exposed ‘when the panel shrinks later, Also, you don't want to glue the panel in place. It has to be able to expand and contract along its width. (The panels length won't change much.) But you do want to secure the pandl so it stays centered in the opening. Otherwise, it could shift doyn orside-toside. To secure the pane, ususlly put ‘drop of glue in the grooves atthe center ofeach rail, as noted in Fig, 7. ‘This allows the panel to expand znd contract out from the center. Just double-check that the raised field is centered before the glue dries. No. 140, ROUTING RAISED PANELS Atablesaw willcutaraised large horizontal bit in a your router table. That's panel with fat hevels, but router table, see the box because the panels are You can also rout panels below. And that can be routed on edge, instead of vithan elegant curved peo- downright scary. But now, ving facedown as they do file. Allyou need is abit, «you can get the job done with horizontal bit. (For ‘utertable andatallfence, much more safely with a more on making the tall a shown inthe drawing. vertical raised-penel bit. router fence that’s shown VERTICAL BITS. Not long In orderto use a verti- here, refer to page 21.) go, routing raised panels cal raise¢-panel bi, you'll Ifyou take a look at the ‘meant youthad to mount a need to add a tall fence to margin photos at right, its saw — > an 5 nore: iets is Formore on Co ujng fence, \ refer to page 21 i «| — —— 2 a aaa aee L Hotes La? | | ace Ac as endl: Searaer en) samaen ) eme m NOTE tet yeh ee Cl a é CEN) So ga. = rates FG suet | rar kow ee om fl First - | —Raised- [> Final “3 seapeth: ae 22% eee POET Tea tity Vertical-Style Bits Horizontal-Style Bits Vertical raised pane! bits don’t fence, asin the drawing above. Ahorizontalsiyle bit is proba- look michiikethersised-pand Sil a vertical raset-panel bly what you fstthinkcof when bits you may be used to see bit is almost always my first you picture a raised panel bit, ing, They're alot smaller, and choice. Youdon'tneed alarge And if you've ever seen one size ofthe bit there’sno bearing on top. But router or need to slow down spinningin arouter table,you opening in both styles of bits the router so these bits are a_know that they can be a bit your router Gut the same basic Jot safer touse. (All you need unnerving. In fact, to use one, table insert. profiles They just isarouterwitha!4" collet) youncedatleasta2uProute, For all of these reasons, ‘work differently. If there’s a drawback, it's andthespeed ofthe bit hasto ther With a vertical that thetop ofthe bittends to bestowed down 012,000 KEM horizontal bit. That's when L raisec-panel bit the create chipout. So | like to (either by using a variable- need to rout an arched or ~ e panel stands on scoretheshoulders,ustlike! speed router or a speed con- cathedral-shaped panel. Here, : edge, wiich means did with the table saw trol).Phis, withthelarger bits, the bearing of the bitis need You may need to increase the edto guide the workpiece, t youll need a tall method, see the right margin, No. 140 Woodsmith Pretty easy to sce that this Process ts similar to the table saw technique with ‘one difference — you don't need to rabbet the A Toavoid ack edge of the panel. chipert when ‘Thats because the router routing with Bit profile automatically tentica rbed ‘creates a tongue around pane! bits, 1 the edges of the panel, as ke t score in detail ‘eat Teft. (Even the shoulders the fatbevel raisedtpanel atthe table bits Te seen create this saw, refer tongue) This means you Fig. 5 at left don't have to worry about the panel wedging itself into the grooves. All you need to do is make sure it will fit into the grooves in the frame pieces Other than this dit ence, the procedure is pretty much the same. 1 4. The sated started by scoring the panel profile shoulders of the raised is youed mn field on the table saw, ewo or more Chis precaution helps passes with prevent chipoutnear the the help ofa top of the router bit) tall, shop-buil ‘Thenl simply sneakupon fence, see the final profile, taking drawing. light passes, until. the tongue isthe right size, e's only one time ’ll uso a 19SUD aOT Our SHOP In the past when I've cut raised panels on the table saw I simply added a tall auxiliary fence to the rip fence. But even with this added support, the panel was still just riding on its thin edges. Soforthe raised panels in this issue, 1 decided to make acled that ‘would provide the panel 2 litle more support, as fpxrm Eh crew ng | ee Taper Jig ‘The base ofthe adjustable amp on page 22has tapers ‘onevery side, as shown in the margin photo. Since this meant making eight taper cuts, I decided to build aj forthe table saw. This fig Is just a pair of eats glued to a" hard- board base. (Vou could use plywood here) Afer laying out a taper on one of the base pieces, I started by tracing A The base of the 1 lamp.on page 22 an outline of the work: fase ered piece onto the base ofthe sides, butone —_—_jig with thetaperline hush Guckjizenswes tothe edge, see Fig. 1. they're all eve. Next I glued a pair of 3ft-thiek cleats onto the base, using the layout Raised Panel Sled for Table Saw shown in the drawing below. This hehaped sled straddles the rip fence, so ‘when the pane! is clamped to the sled, they can both Depushedacross the blade, ‘sin the photo atright. FACE PIECE, As you can see in the drawing, there isn't much to this sled. ‘The face piece should be sized so youlll be able to Size cross piece 0 “hed set slong fence with no le to-ee lines as reference gu ‘as you can see in Fig. 2. USING THE 116. Now that js built, is time to cat some tapers, When cctting these tapers, you'll wantto leave the line, This, gives you a little extra material for sanding off ‘any marks left by the saw, I began by setting the ripfence alittle wider than. the fig and made the first ‘cut. Then T adjusted the fence as needed to sneak up on the line, see Fig: 3. Next I flipped and rotated each workpiece until all the tapers were cut. Then all that’s left is to sand avvay the saw marks. Woodsmith clamp the panel toiteasily. BACK & CROSS Plict. The izes of the other pieces need to be a little more precise and will depend [Face edge of fam Done at pe n taper ine rdvedge ofa (on your table saw. First, when cutting the back piece to size, you need to make sure its height (width) wil allow the sled to clear any bolts that are ‘on top of the fence, as in detail ‘a’ Likewise, the cross piece is also sized to ‘match your saw’ fence. It should allow the sled to slide smoothly without any sidetoside play. USING THE JIG, There's nothing to using this jig Once the panel is clamped to the faceand the blade is tilted, youre ready to get slacted. For more on this, see page 16. No. 40Raised Panel Bit Jig Routingarsised panel with supports. The only other WY a vertical raised panel bit thing to do to this base requires a different solu- piece is to cut a circular tionthan thetablesawtech- opening for the bit, as nigue thats shown at let. shown in detall"b’ below. This time, instead ofamov- Just be sure to size it to fit ing slec, | built @ ta, sta: your vertical raised panel onary fence that ge's bit. (used a sabre saw, clamped downto the router but a band saw or coping table, asyou can see inthe saw would also work.) photo at right. HENCt, Next, I cut the BASE. The first piece to fence to size. Like the cut to size is the base, as base, is exact dimensions shown in the drawing aren critical, But you do ‘below, It should be about want to make sure you the same length asthe top have plenty of support on ‘of your router table (so either side of the router you can clamp it down bit, And of course it easily) and wide enough should be tall enough to for some triangle-shaped support the panel OTE: Cus ctecton hood can be ‘Sieed after sem See margin Gitta afrouter ibe ‘nore ras con be nate hon pod Cross-Cutting Long Panels ‘Thetopand botiompanels my saw and is screwed in ‘on the bookcase were too place, see Fig, 1a. The sec- Targe to cut to length with ond is clamped to the acrosscutsledonthetable panel fush with the saw’s saw, and a circular saw edge, This pair of runners Blalemakesapretty rough stabilizes the panel as i's ‘u.SoTcameup witha dit pushed across the biade, ferenttechnique forcross- OUTRIGGER, Bat [still cutting a long, wide piece needed help supporting ‘on the table saw, the end of each panel as i RUNNERS. The first thing was being cut. So I @™M _1eid was add two tempo- clamped a scrap piece to a rary runners to the boi- sawhorse, making sure tom ofthe rane, The frst the top ofthis “outriazer” runner is sized to ride in was flush with the top of the miter gauge slot on thesaws table. OY No. 140, » Like the base, the only other thing to do to the fences cut an opening for the bias in deta SUPPORTS. Beiore attach. ing the fence to the base, ZS BS scrownd fo bottom you need a par of triangle shaped supports. The important thing hece is that they hoid the fence square tothe router table. After the fence has been sued and screwed togeth- enythetallfenceis ready to be clamped to your router table, and you're ready to rout the raised panels However, ifyou have a Iot of panels to rout, you might want to consider adding a dust collection hood to the back ofthe bit opening, as you can see in ‘the margin photo at right. (These bits do create their share of sayedust) 1 glued this hood together: using scraps of 14" board. Just size the hole to hold the hose on your vae- ‘uum or dust collector, I |Z temporary earner A Distance between miter gauge ot and aw bled, aM outrigger support camped ea nase Raised panel bts can create a smell dust stom, sou may want to ald a shop-made dust cellection hood to the back side ofthe fence.saan Ose i | sie ie | | No. 140Construction » Details OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 18°Wx 18°D x 69°H ‘Lamp socket Battched OF lamp red ‘Bectrical “rou iste yi fahtent to howd tn place é ™» ahaa, MATERIALS A Shaft (4) Ux 24 B filer Block (4) 4x %4-4% € Bottom Collar (1) Y4x3%2-3% Dilopcollar(t) —%4x3%-3 E Capit) WxD-T F Body Posis(4) 14x34-36 G Base (2) Ux4-18 +H Feet (4) ex e-he 1 Stop Washer() Yex t= 1% (1) 4-26 Threaded insert +(1) 4-20 Threaded Rod (1 lorg) +(1)1"-dia, Wood knob +(1) Lamp Socket +(1) Lamp Spacer +(1) Lamp Rod (1” jong) + (1) lectesl Cord wiPiug ™% +a) Lamp Harp and Shace + (4) ABx 174" Fh Woodscrews +(12)4#8 x 17 Rh Woodscrens + (12) %9"-dla, Wood Plugs \ sae gue ‘stop wether that res na pair of stopped Pabbets ae 5 witha Sate moves ‘pnd down HE nee irigp hae | 5aShaft Assembly began building the lamp from the inside out, starting with the most important part —the siding shat. ‘The shaft (A) isthe center point of the lamp, and all of the other parts will be built to ft around it Its made from four "square pieces that form an interlocking, cross shaped assembly. At the same time, the shaft creates the "channel for the electrical cord to pass through, ssyoucan see in Fig. 1c. To make sure the shaft would stay straight and move freely, [ paid extra aitention to stock selection, You don't want the long, narrow pieces warping. So try to pick out and use only straight grained wood. Now asyou can se in the margin ‘drawing, I made the pieces extra Jong. This allows me to ut the ends square, plus the extra lengths used {or the ler block (2), se Fig Ld. RAMETS, Once youlve cut the pieces square, each one is rabbeted ‘none edge. To make these rabbets [used the table saw with a dado blade buried in an auxiliary fence, ‘asseenin Fig. 1b. CAMPING, With the rabbets cut in cach piece, you can now glue the shait assembly together. As you can see in Fig, Le, the four parts “inter Jock." This helps make aligning and clamping them almost foolprook But to avoid any ghic squcezeout, ‘only apply 2 small bead of ge right into the comer ofthe rabbet. Now with the pieces glued and aligned properly, | simply used masking tape wrapped around the four pieces to hold them together, Nore: collars Gre mada in Biller block fits ineo bottom olor see photoat left. You want to do this atthe ends and all along the middle, Flue stock, With the shaft assem bly complete, you ean now trim the ends and cut the shaft to length. ‘And at the same time you can cut the filler block to size. ‘The filler lock is mainly used for alignment later during final assem- bly, And as you can see in Fig. 1d, tx 1%" Rh ‘woodserew now is a good time to fill the 1/!" ‘channel opening with a small “peg.” ‘THREADED INSERT. The next step for the shaft ig to install 2 threaded insert. This insert is just the first part ofthe adjusting mechanism. I started by drilling a hole slightly smaller than the insert Fig. 2). But to keep the shaft steady, try using a spacer block underneath. A The soft is easly clamped with masking tape.‘To install the insert, I used a bolt with the head cut off and added a (Mpa o hex cuts, se Fg 3s, Then it’s mounted in the drill press and slowly turned by hand, see Fig. 3. COLLARS [Now that the shaft is complete, itcan beused as agauge in makingthe col lars. The two-piece collars are made to itaround the shaft and filer block. MAKING THE NOTCHES. To make the collars, | began with four oversized blanks and laid out the stepped notches. Next the center, taller part ofthe noteh is made (Fig. 4), ‘The method | used was to makea cut and adjust the dado blade to sneak up on the height, see Fig. 4a. Now I adjust the stop block until the layout line is reached Then flip the piece around — this automat cally centers the notch, I found that this “cut and test” method worked best to sneak up on the fit. Finally, I repeated the method for the shorter “steps;"as shown in Fig, My {P. Nhet yuire looking for is both collars to fit around the shaft and just touch each other E FHMTING THETOF. Once the collars it round the shaft, the Bottam collar glued each pair together and cut to make the euts wit the blade tit (C)can be set aside, But the top col- them to final size, as seen in Fig.6. ing away from the fence, see Fi. 7. lar (D) has to allow the shaft to ‘The next step is the mounting Now when cutting the bevels, move freely up and down, holes (Fig. 6)-Startwith a" coun- what you're looking for is a nice This is done by placing the top terbore followed by a %e" shank —crispedge (Fig. 72) found the best collar pieces around the shaft and hole, The counterbores will get way to do this wes to sneak up on tracing a newline, see Fig.5. Then plugged, and the oversized shank the cut until there's no lat spot. vent back and trimmed that line all holes allow alte fine-tuning later. AP. The bevels in the exp (H) are the way around, as seen in Fig. Sa. NEVES. The last stepforthecollars cut at this time too (Fig. 1). This allowed just enough extra is to bevel theedges. Butto prevent Although the cep is smaller, it can oomfor the shaft to slide easily. trapping the workpieces between be drilled and beveled just like the Now with the collars notched, I the blade and the rip fence, be sure collarsas shown in Fig. 1a, No. 140 Woodsmith 5sovyrosss Body & Buse 4 Now thatthe sliding shaft is built, it's ry time to turn your attention tothe next ‘SH: ‘major component — the body. sh ‘The lamp body is made from four an | body posts (F) that surround the ti lt shaft like a cage. These posts are PPPS say, similar to the */'-square pieces that two pasts mike up the shaft — ony longer “The body also has the second part fo the adjusting mechanism. Nore: secre consist ofa shallow stopped rabbet, eae aa? see margin crawingatleit Thisrab BM ape 4 het guides a siop washer which 214 | helps hold the shaft in place — bat more oa that later fanart. To make the rabbets, I decided to clamp a pair of spacer biocks between two poss (Fig 9). “These spacers were used for sox. [| | eratresons First they act as stops and help make an even set of rab- bets Second, these allow the bit to cot only one edge ata time. And FEET leas | finaly they prevent tearout nea the Pinar ens ofthe rabbeis. Note: in order e | to-cutthe i" rabbet, Thad to change eS | the bearing on my rabbet bit. You [J z | might have to do the same Fig. 9a). 18 Z | NOTE: Feet ar onto Base ‘To make the Yf!-deep cuts, I used ¥ the same motion as if I were using ~ Spacer a = | the router fence — from right to left Fig. 9). After the first rabbet is cut, I 5 | simply rotated the workpiece and repeated the process roel eet BASE, The tase (G) is the last | Yeamaygeed to I tuajor part to be constructed. The e two pieces are joined by a halétap i ‘This joints very strong yet surpris- For more tips on making thisand tear-out will be removed by the | ingly simple to malve, thor halflap joinery, turn to the tapering operation, asin Fig, 11. To make this joint, I used the technique article on page 28. Now to make the tapers I once table saw with a dado blade along The next step in making the base again turned tothe table saw. But to ‘with an auxiliary fence on the miter is to bevel the ends (Fig. 8:). did cut an even taper on all the edges, I ‘gauge. I started by cutting to the thisbefore tapering for two reasons. madeaajig like the one shown in Fig. layout lines and then removed the First, indit safer and easier torout 11. To see how to build and use it, ‘waste in between, as seen in Fig. 10. with a wider edge. And second, any turn to Shop Notes on page 2 6 Woodsmith No. 140Et, Finally after the base is com- pleted and glued together, you can attach the fee (H). These ae just square pieces of Wick stock alued onto the base (Fig. 8). ASSEMBLY With all of the parts completed, i's time to put itall together — starting with the four posts. T began by positioning the posts around the filler block and tem. porarily placed the shaft between the posts as a epacer, as shown in Fig. 8. Then it's all held together with some band clamps, Note: Be sure the two posts with the rabbets are positioned correctly. Now the posts can be secured to the bottom collar with some screws, Note: Make sure to predrill the posts to prevent spliting, ‘When is time to attach the base to the body, offset the serews to avoid hitting the heads of the oth- cers, as shown in Figs, 8a and 8b, TOP COLLAR. Attaching the top coh lar Is one of the last steps, The goal here isto align the top collar and ‘body posts so the shaft moves freely ‘up and dowa without binding, ‘Toalign the top collarto the posts, I used the inside corner ofthe collar asaguide, asin Fig. 12b. The first step isto align the post flush with the corner. Then I tested the Ht by sling the shait up and down and looking for any tight spots. fits snug, could reposition the posts slightly because of the oversized shank holes (Fig. 12), To adjust the fit, just loosen the screws and pull the posts back a hair. After the posts are aligned propety, the holes ean be plugged CONTROLS. To complete the adjust ing mechanism, a wood knob and a rectangular washer are needed, The ‘nob is drilled for a short length of threaded rod that’s glued in place with epoxy, seo Fig. 126. ‘This knob threads into the insert that you installed in the shatt carer, Ani the Iflthick ston washer (D) is sized to fit the rabbets, I acts as a suide asides in the rabbets inthe body posts. Along with the knob, it helps hold the shaftin place. WIRING IT UP. The final siep is to wire the socket. But don’t worry, it’s not fancy or complicated. The hare- ware consists of a short piece of lamp rod, spacer, lamp socket, harp for the shade, and several feet of ‘electrical cond with a plug (Fig. 13). Istarted with threading and glu ing the lamp rod to the cap. The ‘harp and socket can go on next, see Fig. 13a, Then I'snaked the cord up ‘through the shaft and wired it to the socket. Finally the socket can be sapped into place. ‘The very lst step is to top off the Jamp with a shade of your choice. 1 A Tightening the shaft | only cakes a quick tuist of a knob Ealy, A Two face grain sufaces make these half aps strong encgh for any prowet. Ph, ua can have your Saw setup and ready in no sie, 28 VOODWORKING BBO nyeLe: eed to build a quick, strong frame? Then a half lap joint is exactly what you're look very quick — all you need is ono basic setup on the table saw for both halves ofthe joint, And i’svery strong, —all that fave arin to face grain con ally takes several frustrating min- For now, though, the focus is Plus, a half lap is prety versatile. utestying to setup the saw before going to be geting the dado blade Just fake a look at a couple of the realize the problem, So keep this inset at the right height. This means projects in this issue, On the book: mind when preparing yourstock. raising it exactly half the thickness case on page 6, the face frames are Also, it's a good idea to havea few of the stock. I stat by simply draw- all half laps. And for the floor lamp test pieces planed to this thickness ing a layout line centered on the on page 22, the two base pieces are so you can use them when setting thickness of one of the piecos. Then joined with across la. up the table saw, asin Fig, 1. I raise the blade so the teeth are STOCK THICKNESS, There’s nothing sLADE seTUP. Wil the stock thick fush with this ine fancy or tricky about aa lap. Half nessed and the pieces cut tolength, Of course, this isonlya start. The the Stock’s thickness is removed i's timeto setup the table saw. Here real testis cutting half laps on the from the pieces so they overlap and you need @ dado set. [like to set ends ofyour test pieces, asin Figs. 1 their faces endl up lush, Butforthis mine as wide as possible so there and La, There's no need to fuss with to work, the mating pieces have to are fewer passes to make. Also, the width of these half laps yet. Just be the exact same thickness. youll want tb attach an auxiliary concentrate on getting the height of No big deal, right? Well, Ive got fence to the miter gauge, as you can the blade right so the faces end up tea “tripped up’ before by forgetting sec in the photo above, This sup- flush, asin Fig, 1b, that my thickness planer often parts the workpieces and allows Most ofthe time, I find the faces ‘snipes’ the pieces, making them you toatld a stop block forestablisi- are off only a fraction, and the trick slightly thinner on the ends. Itusu- ing the shoulder ofeach halflap. is to adjust the blade exactly half iter gauge’ ‘er f iver fae Manna Pies Be race pieces a. shou be fash ep view Ausiry ea a Measure to far, || bade i soo o_ seer oles | | de ae a i aes eet ; Woodsmith No. 140the difference. Just be patient here. You may need to adjust the blade height a few tines before the faces end up perfectly fush. FENCE SETUP. Once the blade is set, alltha’s lefts to establish the width ‘ofthe half lap by clamping a stop to the auxiliary fence, The position of this stop will be determined by the width of the mating piece, asin Fig. 2, Just remember to measure fo the outside edge ofthe blade (Fig, 22) If the two workpieces are the same width, then one setup is all ‘you'll need to make. Itthey‘e differ ent widths, youll need to reposition the stop for each piece. Either way, ican be done pretty quickly. -MuLaPLE PAss88, Now you're ready to cut the half laps on the work- This will require making multiple passes, and I usually start with the piece pushed all the way against the stop, as shown in Fig 3. ‘LEANING THE CHEERS, With the half Japs cut, Tike to inspect the cheeks to make sure they're as smooth as possible, (It makes for a stronger sluejeint) Ii they?re not, youcan try sliding the workpiece back and ‘You can't heat a halflap when -youneedastrong, simple joint. But when the pieces get long (ke the ace ramerails onthe sofa table bookcase) there are ‘some unique challenges. GETTING A RIP, When cut- ting the half aps on the ends ‘of the rails, the first thing 1 ‘ad to figute out was how (0 rest. clamp secou: Sponph tote mes tole ‘Seulbon ight Shoots together forth across the blade, while you slowly push it forward, asin Fig. 4. ASSEMBLY. When all the half laps are ready, you can assemble the frame, as shown in Fig. 5. This is a ee aC ea at) two-step process. First, you want to draw the shoulders of the frame together with pipe clamps (or band clamps), Then you can add a sinall clamp to each corner lent screged to ausilany fence wore Ae at prevent piece fom Sipping hold these long workpieces, (Clamping them to the auxik ary miter guage fence would have meant re-camping them with each pass. Instead I ere ated a simple hold down by screwing a cleat to the front of the ausiliary fence, as you can see in Fig. 1 below. This hiold down Keeps the work piece from tipping up but sil Jeesme shit the plece without too much trouble, ‘CUTTING T0 ANE, When cut ting half Japs inthe center of the long rails, working with a stop just wasn't. practical (without making the auxiliary fence over six feet long). Instead I worked toa line, a Alii fayous tines bath marks on y So at tence eae Heo ide ‘on farce: C7 sneak “ip on wid ‘offal lp in Fig, 2. And to make it easy tp see what I was doing, Ilaid ‘out the half lap on both faces and drew lines on the auxi- fry feave to show where the dado blade was cutting, Then all you need to do is caretully sneale up om the final width of the half lap, testing the fit with the mating workpiece. Woodsmith ——————E—E—E———————eee 29STORAGE uO cer RAISED PANEL STORAGE a ae OSs initia vec piyecaie ey ACCOM OTe Kean Tao Reha Eten Uae Either way, you'll get doubleilucy from this elegant and practical project. attractive fine for the; it’s not the kind of thing you'd o display in the living room. This RAISED FANELS, By using raisedl panels on all four sides, a plain box can be turned into a storage table with siyle, In fact, you might lifts off to reveal the lange space inside (Gee the photo a PANEL OFTIONS. The panels bles she on the table sy to do this by just making a bevel cut on ‘edge of the panel, If you'd rather dress up the panel with something fancier than the flat surface of a bevel, you might want to try a raised-panel bitin the router table, There are a variety of bits that can cut a n the shoulder ‘e information about this option on page 19, aw, I's 4 Touc de the rab the storage sha liftoff the ll ce the lid, n and prevent ic the kd on che tal rom shifting oi No. 140.NOTE: id and bottom Denelsarepbwcod sph, Construction ce Details OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 21K"W x 21'2"D x 20"H abbas nwo nels accep Sdjacent panes ) ‘ase cleats hep S\ postin er PW sanesones_) sorroM aS tons metas e sen ean melon nara S08 FEST SUNN sme ‘wit Sound pink RET MATERIALS, SUPPLIES & CUTTING DIAGRAM 7 iebrtate XS A Stiles @) Ax 2le- 15h H Cove Molding (4) %x1%-20% Pape sora B Rails (8) Mx 2M 14% 1 Lid Panel (1) G ply. - 17 x17 bottom panels C Panels (4) %4x14-11'2 4 Lid Molding (4) XK 214- 21 lpeeonidecr zee D Boitom Panel(1) 2% py. 16x 16% K LidCleais(4) 44x 1- 16% raised panels and E Bottom Molding (4) 34 « 214 - 20% * (12) #8 x 2%" Fh Woodscrews: alternate profes F Base Cleats (4) GK 6- 19% G Risers (4) aK 2% - 20% NOTE: Materials listed are for one storage table isn Sst 70* Chery 0 toxrds@275 be Ft) a : ror section view er 2 # Also NEEDED: 44154! 72" Cre @ Bonds ©2756.) See geet ase ay) Raboot acopte ‘efacent se oundover acs ‘tener atcent Pong seed to SS illwrroem fet exparain No. 140 Woodsmith 31A Tiem to page 20:0 find how to buid cand use ds led NOTE: All stiles ‘eut2ie" wide foswrt Frames ‘The body of the table is a box made of four frame and panel assemblies that start out identical. After they're assembled, two of the sides get ‘rimmed to final width, But more about that later ALS & STIS, The first parts to work onare the eight stiles (A) and eight rails (B) shown in Fig. 1. Once they are cut to size, you can ‘start work on the tongue and ‘groove joinery. There's an article on page 16 that details how to do this. PANELS. Once the joinery has been cut, you can move on to gluing up the solid wood panels (C).After the ‘sluehas dried, the panels can beat ‘Note arain direction of panels Nore: All pacts made from ahick Stock to final cize, as shown in Fig. 1. The panels are sized to allow room for them to expand and contract inside the frames (Figs. 1a and 1b). Before the panels will fit in the grooves in the frame pieces, they each need a tongue around all four edges, The first step in creating the tongue isto cuta rabbet on the back ‘of the panel, Then I used a simple sled (Gee margin photo) to help cut a bevel on each edge. The bottom. line is that the tongue should end up just undor ¥" thiek at the edge. Note: You can create different profiles on the panel by using. spe- ciel raised-panel bits in the router en eine ve wi shostder b. SIDE SECTION VIEW melyeies { table. You can sce a sample ofthis in the photo on page 34 and get details about using these bits on page 19, FANS & ASSEMALY, When panels are ‘made from solid wood, its a good idea to apply the finish before assembling the frames. That way, there won't be any unfinished edges showing should the panel contract, (used a tung oil varnish, Now it’s time to glue up cach assembly. As you do this, check that the frames siay lat and square, {96ES, The next stop is to do some work on the edges of each assem- bly. A look at Fig. 1a shows thet the frames are connected to each other ‘NOTE: im only tora asserts MOTE: Raves one toietace 7 7 = ) view Woedsmithwith a rabbet joint To keep all four Sides of the table the same width, two assemblies nced to be trimmed. As Fig 2 shows, you'l need to trim equal amounts ofeach stile to leave an 18tide frame. “The two wider frames need some aiditional work. The frst thing 10 do is to rout a roundover with a shoul der on the edge of each stile, like you see in Fig 3. Ifyou look at Fig. Ja, you'l see that this roundover ‘creates anice accent at each corner. Next, you can cut the rabbet thet accepts the adjacent side panel. Fig, 4 shows how I set up a dado blade and an auxiliary fence to do ths. ‘Now the four frames can be glued together to form the box. Its impor tant that the box stays square and dosn't “twist” as it’s glued together. ‘So used the top of my table saw as perfectly fatassernbly table, BASE ‘With the box completed, Imovedon tothebasethatitstson. Aquickleok at Fig. 5 showsthat the base consists of two parts —a frame and panel assembly, and a riser I started with the frame and panel. FavWo0D, This frame and pane! is Aiferentirom the side panels, Here, the frame is mitered to hide the end sain. And the panel is piywocd so there won't be any expansion o contraetion forcing the miters apart. The bottom panel (D) is eat to size from '' plywood, ike you sce in ig. 5. look at Fg. 6 shows that tongue is ereated around the panel by cutting rabbets around each face. Next, cat the blanks forthe tor- tom molding (B) to fished width as shown in Fig . Then a centered \ Topo: rif honk les \I crew Botton essembly to box groove is eut on one edge of each ‘molding piece to fit the tongue on the bottom panel ig. 7). After the grooves are cut, the ‘molding is mitered to fit round the panel, and the pieces can be glued together. Then, like you see in Fig, 8, a roundover with a shoulder is routed around the assembly ‘GENTS, Before adding the riser, four base cleats (F) are added to the Jwer face of the bottom assembly flush with the inside edge of the ‘molding (Fig. 68). This provides a solid giving and clamping surface ‘when the riser fs added later. With the cleats attached, this is a ‘pod time to drill shank and pilot holes as indicated in Fig, 5. Then the base can he serewer! and glued en _ 16h pi 2 atc) [FIST Glue up pane! vwtth molaings FOURTH: Miter ritars to the box, centered from side to side and front to back. iste. The riser (G) is simply four pieces of 9A"thieke stock mitered to fit around the base cleats (Fig. 5) and glued in place (Fig. a). Bottom ascent) Beene Woodsmith 3lid ‘To access the storage space inside the table, the ld justli's off. To keep the ld in position, cleats on the bot tom of the lid form a square. This Squareisthen trapped by cove mold- ing strips around the top of the box, ‘MOLDING. I started by cutting the cove molding (E) to finished width and rough length. Then [ routed W"cove along one edge (Fig 10) ‘Once that’s done, you can miter the molding to length. What you want here is to leave a '/" shoulder between the outside face ofthe box and the cove, like you seein Fig, 9 ‘Then glue the molding in place. Ub, Construction ofthe id wil seem familiar. Its the same as the base panel. As you can see in Fig. 9, aply- Wood lid panel (L) is wrapped with solid wood lid molding (J). The tongue and groovejoineryisjust like ‘on the base panel (Fig: $b). One difference is thatthe bottom edge of the lids softened with 26" roundover, like you see in Fig. 1, (EATS The last thing todo istoadd the fd eleats (K). These are just" wide pieces mitered to fit between the cove molding. it's a zood idea to leave a litle bitofa gap between the cleats and the cove moldings so i’s easier to fitthe id onto the table (Fig, 9b). Leut my cleats ¥Y' shorter than the distance between the moldings. ‘Then the cleats are glued to the bottom face ofthe lid, centered side toside and front to back. Lid panels" lotherpicces ore nkksolié wood (fy, SIDE SECTION VIEW [NOTE: Leave sight op between Cast and ve nec P| fe OTE: Rout cave i _ several sallonpastes teavotd cnipout END VIEW cove bt a NOTE: Rout roundover On bottom edge only END VIEW Wt round-over bit FHMISH. Allthat’sleftto complete the tables to applya finish. (used three coats ofa tung oilvaraish,) Since the side panels received 2 finish earlier, 1 masked off their edges to preventany more from getting on them. ‘The cured shoulders ofthese me nels were cue with a raised panel bitin the router table. ‘Tiem to page 19 for details Woodsmith No. 140a SOURCES SOFA TABLE BOOKCASE ‘There's nota lot of hardware needed forthe sofa table bookcase on page B, Infact, ifyoutre building the open ve sion (without doors) then allyouneedl are a few woodscrews, washers, and some ia, shelf pins, NGS @ PULS. But ifyouire bulking, the doors, then there are some ald tional tems you have to get ahold of First [chose some small satin-nickel pulls (BWP7523) from Woodwork- er's Hardware (see listat righ). Next, you'll need 94" inset, free- swinging hinges (AO7697 3 from Woottworker’s Hardaeare). This pe ofhinge willbe readily available from ahardware store orhome center (or the sources at right), but don't be su prised if you can't find any with 2 nickel finish. Lendee up buying brass hinges, and then aftera light sanding, with 4€Ogrt sandpaper | simply soray painted them silver, ‘The only other hardware item youll need for the doors are magnetic catches, I used common surfece ‘mounted catches fand strike plates) However, you might also want to {ake a ook the cherry version that’s shown on our web site, see “Online Extras” below. features Craftaman- syle lls thatare available from the sources listed at rght, The hinges ‘Wout also need to be painted black.) REIDID GLASS. For the doors with slass panels, I went toa local glass shop and purchased" reeded-gtass panels, (You'll want to do this after the doors have been assembled so ‘you can give them the exact size of the rabbeted frame openings.) And ‘whether you decide to use reeded lass or standard 14" glass, Pd re ‘ommend that you order safety glass. Ws. Since very Title plywood was used on this project, the color of the ‘wood was pretty consistent, so didn't feel that the wood needed to be Stained. Instead, I simply wiped on several coats ofa tungoil varnish, ‘ADJUSTABLE FLOOR LAMP When building the lamp on page? you wont need much hardware al Resides a handful of woodworking screws, all ou need isa "4'-20 bra insert, a Pia, cherry wood knob (61655 from Rockler), and a short length of threaded rod, All ofthese items should be available at a home ‘center orawoodorking store, or the Insert and wood knob can be ordered through the sources listed at right The electrical supplies are also available locally at hardware stores ‘and lamp shops. In fects offen pack aged as a complete kit. However, there are adiional sources listed at right that offer lamp supplies. ‘Wiring a lamp is prety basic, and theinstruetons should be ineluded in your hardware kt, Stl, if you have ‘any reservations or questions, dont hesitate to find someone who can ‘guide you through the process, RAISED-PANEL BITS ‘The raised:panel storage tables lon't require any special hardware, Andif you like the look of a flat beveled raised panel, you can cut them on the table saw. But curved-profle raised panelscan also be builtin your shop. Allyouneedisa router table anda yer- tical raised pane bit, The one shown WOODSMITH PROJECT SUPPLIES if i puld like to ord on page 19 is made by Amann (64520) and can be ordered from the ‘mailorder sources atright. ‘This issue, there area few extras aval- able online, First, we're showing a rendlering of hat the sofa table would Woodsmith ook tke fit were built with eherry anc featured Craftsmanstye pulls. ‘Also, we're including some brie step by.siep instructions forcreating a door frame that uses a haunched mortise and tenon insted ofthe stub tenon and groove shown on page 17. Goto www: Woodsiith com and ook forthe “Online Extras” button, WY! * "Online Extras". Plans Patterns, & More + Over 100 Woodworking Tips Online # Visitur Readers Proeet Photo Galery # Project Pans You Cun Doymiood * Calo of Frect Kits, Tools, ies & Plans * Forums for Woedverling, Tools, & Classifeds + Links to Other Woodworking Sites * Onder Woodnnith & ShopNotiw Back Ieee, www.woodsmith.com ALL ORDER SOURCES Similar project eupplios and hardware may be ordered from the following ‘coimpaanies: Amana Tool Cor. 800-445-0077 ‘wvovamanaton.com Reuterbis Lae Vier 00871-8198, ‘wv leraly.com Pull Hinges, Wd IeolaCatohey Self i Lamp nape, Comes ule Roxkder Woodworking 800.279.4441 srreldeceee Hinges Wa ends, Rote bits, Pals, Shelf ina, Clean, Lamp op ‘us, Dover, ‘Crema lis Woodworkers Hardware 00:283010 woe vtiardare.com Hino Walks, Pills, Sh pin Wooten 800-228-1153 sm nodal. Hinge Wal bbs, ter bi, The Wondsmit Store H00-835:508| Wado, vet nari Shins acti ondnerkers Seppty ‘800.645.9202 _rorgmbarberom Wout ot toners, hos nar, LompwiptcnALAST Balog A Bookcase Options, This projec: is aad wih options. Yuecan build asa simple open boekcase or fara very diferent lok, a lasses. “Thore ce te option of ang soldaued penal doors, Complete step byte plan or the bookcase (cx the optional dors} bein. on Adjustable Floor Lamp. Bild «classe lok lor lamp that wil pc the igh a exact the right height — is easier han you chink Inseuctons b Raised Panel Storage Table. This small accent project offer alt of acical storage in an elesn“puckane. And well shote you te methods for building raise ponds like a ro. The table begins on page 30, The rated-panel described on page 16 procedtr