Roll-Around Tool Cart » Storage Pedestal » Lap Desk Decorative Splined Miters Vol. 20/No. 118 OUT Mree() ee leuutstg cleric) * Make an updated esi i) classic lap desk Oo RET Ere) more (0) decorative splines to miter joints NRO aeWoodsmith No. 118 August, 1998 mat si leno pela oe es Seen fie Publisher Associate Editors Art Director ‘Senior Mustrtors ‘CREATIVE RESOURCES Guat Dict Tei Poet ero ea Man See Deon ent Wesh » Pres Deemer es Cones Sp Mapes Crt» Sey Groans mon Senor gape Cara ‘BOOKS rcv Eor, Dg. Hk + Sr upc Ess Somers sacra Eee aes Co nna eT cristo me i Moen = areata ol Picedis USA 2 EpITO! COUN) SAWDUST Qhesseeseanersct ates ‘designing a project is to pick the materials we're going to use, Typically ‘we try to use common materials that pene cola euro wtitebunes Tl Ctinet ‘on page 6. And Steve Johnson (our ‘Shop Craftsman) had gone to the lum- beryard to pick up materials, When he eee maple plywood, and it would be weeks before they received another shipment. So Steve brought back a new product Srebleki unreortoore isranrnow Newer wel ‘MDF (Medium-Density Fiberboard) in eee ae cpio serene thicker sheets ((A"and $,"-thick sheets ‘are commonly available). And we often use it to make jigs and fixtures. Even so, I was skeptical (some might ‘say stubborn) about using “plywood” Shnnsbeoreobanhetsan from what | was used to. It didn't have any plies. Justa solid dark brown core with a layer of veneer on the top and bottom. But the more we talked about it, [began to realize there were sever- ‘al benefits to using MDF-core plywood. tare isco tan ‘mapleis about 45 dollars, (That's thi ty-five percent less than a sheet of ‘veneer plywood here in Des Moines.) Woodsmith In addition, the sheets are very fat and tenlto stay thet way.So you don't haveto worry abouta large piece twist ing or bowing, Plus, since the core is soli you don't have to worry about dealing with the vids that traditional plywood oten has. Even though MDF core sounds lke theperfect matrialto replace plywood, itdoes have couple of drawbacks. eave First ofall is very heew. AW thick, 4x8 sheet of mDe-core ply- ‘wood weighs over a hundred pounds. So iting it out ofa truck can be quite chore. And you defintely wantto have some help ifyoutre cutting « fullcize shect on the table saw. THREE Another thing wenoticed isthe veneer on MDForescemsvery thin, So ifyou get carried away when sending, you could easily sand through the veneer tothe core. So while it may not be suitable for every project, MDF-core will definitely have a place in our shop. But don't worry if you ca find itin your area Traditional veneer core plywood will work ust as well INDEX We now have an updated index for Woodsmitc and ShopNotes magezines, (ShopNotes is our companion pubi- cation) This new index provides a com plete reference toall the woodworking. projects and techniques that have appeared in both Woodsmith and ‘ShopNotee. you'd like to purchase 2 copy of the new index, just give us a call at 100-444-7002, “Tay 2 No. 118A LOOK INSIDE CONTENTS Features Roll-Around Tool Cart .. 6 MDF-core plywood and a solid wood frame make this tool cart rigid and sturdy. And metal comers help protect it from dents and dings as you roll it around your shop or garage. Storage Pedestal .. Dentil molting a fluted column, and a marble op give ts pedestal a classic look, And the hidden storage compartment inside makes this a practical and useful project as well Lap Desk If you've gor a budding Rembrande or Picasso in your home, here's a project you'll wamt to build. The inside of tis desk holds a continuous roll of paper, so there's always a fresh “canvas.” And ‘a built-in handle makes it easy to carry the desk anywhere. Decorative Splined Miters ........... -30 Don’ le che name deceive you. Although splines are a great way to dress up a project, they also work well when it comes to sevengthening @ mite joint. And a splined miter joie is easy 0 ‘ale. Alli eles is simple jig and our step-by-step insmuctions Sharpening Jig ... A micro-adjusting feature and a gauge for setting up the bevel angle make this sharpening jig tmique. But surprisingly, it's made almost entirely out of common hardware items you can find at ‘most home centers. Departments Tips & Techniques .............00000000e 4 Shop Notes .. Talking Shop Sources .... No. 118 ‘WoodamithFROM FELLOW WOODWORKERS Tips & TECHNIQUES Fluted Columns Recently I was building a project that called for some uted rods, or columns. But ‘since Idon't own a lathe, I had to come up with another way to make the ‘luted dowels. ‘My solution was to use a table saw and a router table. | started by cutting several equare blanks. (I's important to make the ‘blanks as square as possi ‘Ble,) Thea I tilted my saw: ‘blade 45° and bevebripped all four corners of each blank to create octagonal Senate ‘ot faees hes ald deo bk ee 1% hardboard I ‘ana shelves in acta iy ‘workpieces, se detail'a” Tomake the ftes, Ii ply used a 3" core box bit and aroutertable, sce detail ‘b) The trick hereisto pre- ‘yen the blanks from rotai- Jing while you feed it past the rotter bit To do this, T made a simple jig that clamps to the router table and corrals the blank. ‘Thejigis usta couple of hardwood fences serewed toa ¥("thick hardboard base, see drawing below. A holeis drilled the center ofthe hase to allow clear- jay ee ance forthe router bit, and 1 couple pieces of hard- board are screwed to the top ofthe ig to act as hold- downs as the blank is fed through the jg. positioned thejig onthe ‘ourtrtible Tread Daniel Egan’stip for finishing shelves inthe last iseue of Woodemith and thought I would share my niethod. In order to nish both sides ofa shetfat one time, Ihanwthe shelves ver: tically on a simple rack. ‘To make the rack, Istart by drilling a series of 4" dia. holes about four inch- ‘esapart down the center of ascrap board. (used a Piece of 2xt stocks) Then pthe boardin two, cutting right through the holes. By tacking a couple of Drying Rack for Shelves router table by making test cuts on one of the blanks, Just shift the jig backward or forward untilthe futeis centered on a “corner” of the biank, see detail’: With the jig clamped in plece, [simply fedthe blanke through,rotaingitaneighth ofaturn between passes. Jin Shaver akon, OMohome ‘ross rails atthe top and bottom, you end up with a rack for holding the shelves sae draving. Shop Note: The length of the ‘rossrailsis determined by the width ofthe shelves. Now just partially drive ‘a small nail or screw into the sides ofeach shelfnear the back. With the rack leaning against a wal, the shelves can be hung vert cally while the irish dries, see detil‘a! RB Hines Vienna, Ow No. 118 wvec Drill Press Fence In the past, I used to just clamp a board to my drill press table whenever I needed a fence. But trying to position the fence was awkward So Icame up with asimple fence design that is easer to use-and incor poratesa stop block, ‘One end of the fence is attached to aplywaod base with « carriage bolt and a threaded knob, Thisallows you to swing the fence in rout The fee” end ofthe fence isthen secured tothe base with a small clamp, see drawing. ‘The fence ismade outof two pieces of 1/4"-thick stock. But before gluing them together, [ cut a roove and a rabbet along. one eige of each piece, see detail‘. Thiscrestes slat forthe stop block when the ‘to halves of the fence are slued together. ‘Thebase sjusta pice of S4!-thick plywood that is ‘monnied to the drill press table with carriage bolts, see detail'b, The stop block is also ‘made from 114'-thiek stock, see drawing. Rabbets cut along the top and bottom edge of the block create a tongue that rides in the slot on the fence, Then 2 hole is drilled through the block to allow for a toilet bolt, ‘washer, and wing nut, Start Carer Rocky Pane, Nohara DUST COLLECTOR Tused to have trouble ‘with small scraps lod- ing in the hose of my dust collector. ‘To prevent this, [fas teneda piece of'/"hard- ware cloth under my tablesaw,rightover the dust collector port. The hardware cloth screens ‘out the scraps. Daeid Moore Reger, Misia CHAMOIS CLOTH Lusealotofwipeon fin: ishes in my shop. But] {ind that paper or cloth ‘rags tend to shed lint, So instead, Tuse a ‘mall piece of leather ceutfrom an old chamois (the kind used to dry off your car). After wards, 1 wash the ‘chamois out in thinner Greg Ortc Gardiner, Now Yor SUBMIT YOUR TIPS ee of tf tick f ‘CROSS SECTION lamp fence npestion Clothespin Clamp Recently I was building a cabinet that had drawers with wood knobs. I wanted to sizin the knobs a differ- Gir homers feos le ish them separately fom oe To do this, I simply Geen soko tivarer: Teal chapels neue tec Pence te while applying the finish. Pail a Pocket Magnet Recently I was helping my ad do some work on our barn Butinstead oftrying to climb a ladder one- handed while holding onto afistil ofserews; [slipped a strong magnet into my front pats pocket, ‘The magnet holds the screws tothe outside of my pants pack, leaving both my hands free. ‘Nate Perry (12 years old) (Chagield, Mimesna ‘Woodsnith - Wing nut Wg xz0 Threed kod conto screw, ‘hon elomp. Inelothexpin Star frat 1 Fender washerSHOP Bao) 044 ROLL-AROUND TOOL CART Plywood panels, solid-wood frame members, and heavy-duty hardware make this tool cart tough enough to stand up to just about anything: time in his garage working on automobiles as I spend in my shop. (It’s a convenient arrangement — he fixes my car, andI build him a piece of furniture.) nice itwould be tohavea chest or cart that could be rolled around the shopjustwhere you needit. And that’swhere I got the inspiration for this tool cart. FEATURES. The desig up with incomporates alot ofthe same features that are included on commercially- made-chests —fulHlength drawer pull, heavy-duty cast- fers, and fulLextension, ball-bearing drawer slides, soo Woedsmith photo, But also added 2 few modifications to make the cart more of a“woodworke’s” tool chest For one, I used wood instead of steel for the structur: al elements of the cart. But to give the cart the look of metal, [reinforced the corners with aluminum angle. ‘Then tomake the drawers alle more usel, Imade ther deeper to accommodate diferent kinds of tools, Finaly, [added 2 cabinet on one side of the cart PLYW00D. There's one other feature ofthis chest worth mentioning, Most ofthe panels {used for the sides, bot- tom and top are made of plywood. But instead of ord nary veneer-core plywood, Tused a different type of miate- tial on this project. I's a plywood made with an MDF (amesihum-ensity Mherboard) core. For more on this type of plywood, see the box atthe bottom of page 9 No. 118r-thice, — ardbesrd Construction Details ‘ppgoard and ‘create a dureble. a> Sd bie co °C oy ‘OVERALL DIMENSIONS: Same ssrened, 36"H x 39°W x 23°D and simple aseribly tent Fret — ace sandy thik meta screw 2 Ka fromecan te but fpmnaranootor Bip Srtenoralorbnr — COntrapus (4° MOF-core 5 ‘eos = = bor = ‘Alurioum angle protects — aliminarn angle Fhsheet — aa) a i earn = ( Fhisheet Se ee, Sea eon auy i rine oe Tee, See rs pa ae drawer Adjustable Shelf. The rightsideof the tool Sliding Tray: A removable trey in the top cartcontains a storage compartment witha drawer provides an teal place for keeping “shelf for holding took or supplies. delicate measuring tooIs or smal ters Deep Drawers. Larger items are stored in one of te three loner cranes Al five of the dramers ride on full-extension slicks No. 118 Woodsmith 1Case I wanted this tool cart to be able to stand up t0 lots of abuse as it was rolled around the shop. SoTbuil the “skeleton ofthe cart ot of sold, 1 thick hard maple. (fyouwant some- {hing less expensive than maple, you could use dimensional “2by* lum: ber) Then I used plywood and hard board forthe “shin” ofthe cart— the sides, bottom, back and top. “This “skeleton” is really just two idenuical frames see draving at right. Fach frame's madeup of couple of rails (A) connected by three stiles (B). There's no fancy joinery here— the frames are held together with sere and butt ints But before you can assemble the frames, there area couple of details to tendo ages. Firs, youl need to cut a {jt-deep rabbet along one edge of the lower ral of each frame, se detail ‘e? (eat these with a dado blade) These rabbets will hold a bottom piece thats added later: Next, youll need to cuta I-deep, ‘provide rabbet on one edge four of the siles, see detal b These rab- bets willhold a couple of panedsthat ‘ill be used for mounting the draw. cer hardware. (The other tyo stiles are left unrabbeted.) the rabbets cu, the frames are ready to be assembled, The eas iestvay odo thisistolay each frame ‘outon topo lat surface used my workbench), see photo below. Then clamp the pieces together so the serew hole lecaions can by kid out. Andin orderto keep the middie ile ‘A To help center the stile and keep it from moving, | added spacer blocks to either side. Then I dried the shank and pilot holes and installed the woodscreus. tee ee | eS ae Fr neocren @ 7 4 ‘NOTE: Thats @~ anbottom valle only centered on the enath ofthe rails, [ made four spacer blocks to fit in panels are made out of S4"-thick between the stiles, see photo. -MDkcore plywood, see box on next SGRWS. Theis and stilesareheld page. (Vou could also use regular together by 314"Iong woodserews. _veneer-eare plywood.) Butto driveserewsthislongintohard The bottom panel (C) is cut 1! ‘maple, youll need to drillsome pilot Ionger than the famesso that over holes. I siarted by drilling counter- hangseach fame by 7" atboth ends, ssunkholesfor the shank andl head of see detail ‘c’on opposite pawe. Later, ‘each screw, see detail ‘a’ above. a dadowillbecutinthe end paneisto ‘Then drilled ¢-tia. pit hole ftaver the projecting ends ofthe bot forthe threaded portion of each tompanel, locking the pane!sin place, screw. Once all the screw holes are see detail ‘a on opposite paxe. This riled, the pieces can be fastened makes the cart more rigid together. Shop Note: Even with the _ With hebottomeuttosize youcan predilled holes, driving screws this determincthesizeoftheend panels Jong is tough. So I rubbed a little (D). To dothis stand the frames up beeswax onthethreadsofeach screw and set the bottom panel in place tohep "grease the skis.” between them. Thelength ofthe end BOTTOM & ENDS. With the frames paneleshouldmatch theheight ofthe ‘completed, you can begin working frames. But the panels are cut Yi" on the bottom and end panels that wider than the overall width of the ‘connect the frames, see drawing on frames and bottom. (I made my pan ‘Woodsmith No. 118€ls 20" wide) When the end panels a attached, this overhang wil cre ate an “opening” fora "thick back. With the end panels cuto size, [cut a deep dado near the inside, bot tom edge of each end panel, ee draw- ingThe width ofthese dadoesis ized to ftover the projecting ends ofthe botiom panel, see detaiis'and'. Aer the dadocs are cut, the pan cls can be attached tothe rames. The Dotiom panel is glued into Une rab- bets inthe frames, Then the end pan- elsare screwed onto the ends ofthe frames, trapping the bottom pane! in between. When attaching tbe enc pan- cls, just remember thet the panels shouldbe fushin front but overhang the Back ofthe cart by Baek, The back of the cart fs noth ing more than a piece of thick hardboard, ct to fit in Retween the two ene panels, se drawing nd detail ‘4’ This back panel (B) is simply screwed in place. ‘AUMINUM CORKERS. To strengthen the cart and prevent the comers from. geting damaged, [added a piece of aluminum angle tb each corner. 1 used ‘thick, 2" x 2" aluminum angle for my corners. (You should be abl to buy his at our hardware store, oF see page 35 for sources.) Since aluminum angle i typically sold in eightoct or lougerTengths, youl haveto cut the aluminum down tothe sizeyou need Thiscan be dane ‘with alacksaw Then any rough enés canbe smoothed with aie. In addition to cutting the alu ‘minun to length, youll also need to do a litle clean up work. The alu ‘eves. The veneer on the SREWS.One more thing Like MDE ‘benefits, there are good (A) side of MDF-coreply- all MDF products, MOFcore core ply “alsy a couple of oilier woods so thin itdoesnt take plywood doesnt hold wood- wood has some Doinsstoconsider.MDFrore muchto sand rightthroughit, screws as well as solic! wood distinct advantages overtra. —_plywondtendsto be abitheay- Now this isnt much different _ or veneer plywood. So Ilike to ditional, veneer-core plywood. _ierthan conventional plywood. from traditional plywood. But use sheet metal (sel-tapping) For one thing i’slessexpen- (This can bea blessing ora the troubles the core of MDF _serews. These are threaded sive (about 5% ess) Wsalso curse, depending on the pro- plywood is so much darker along theirentire length to pro- ‘more stable, which means it ject) And you also have to be than the veneer that itshhows vide more “grabbing” power, carefulwhenit comes tosand- dhrouzh all the more, So Ttry see photo in margin, Aluninun comer guar 1 verhan ~ Gothen) minum we bought still had grease ‘and dirt on it trom the factory, not ‘o mention a number of scuffs and scratches. (For more on working with aluminum, see page 14.) DRUL HOLES. The aluminum is mounted to each corner with fat ‘Woortsmith ing MDFeore plywood. re Franeot Ietalsrew head woodlscres, I drilled some countersunk holes in the aluminum A Sheet metal sews for these screws. (left) hold beter in Once all the holes are drilled, the MDF core plywood aluminum cen be mounted tothecart, than woodscreus, see detail jow you're ready 10 move on to making the drawers. Piet tae NL fokcepsanding tos minimum.10 Drawers To provide plenty of storage space, the cart has a bank of drawers on the lett side and a storage cabinet on the right side. I decided to make the drawers first. But before actually con- structing the drawers, I need ed to create fash, fat surfaces 25, compartment to mount the drawer hardware. So I cut a couple of drawer slide pan- els (P) out of Y2'thick MDF to fit inside the cart, see draw ing at right. These panels fit into the rabhets that were cut ‘on the stiles earion. Bat there's one slight problem. In ‘order for these panels to fit around the upper rails of the cart, you'll need to notch the top corners of the panels, see drawing. Once the notches are cat, you can ‘mount the drawer slides on each ‘panel, see Fig. Land 2,Then the pan- ‘ls can be glued and screwed to the cart, sce details 'a'andb’ above. ‘DRAWERS. The tool cart contains five drawers (wo small, sallow ones and three large.deever ones, see draw- {ng in margin on opposite page). At first glance, making the drawers ‘might look like a ot of work. Butsince the parts are identical (exceptforthe height), alot of this is really just a rater of repetition, I started by cut tingll the drawer fronts/backs (G, HD) and sides (, 5) 1 size from 2'- thick ND, see drawing on next page. ace panel Sng Bout iiestor bottom edge of “aroved Tor diy sex Freneot The joinery for the drawers is pretty straightforward. Tongues cut fon each end of the front and back pieces of the drawer it into dadoes cut near the ends of the side pieces, see detail 'b’ on opposite page. To make these joints, Idacloed the side pieces first and then cut the tongues on the ‘ont and back pieces to it Before assembling the drawers, I uenotches in pene’s fofeareund rai cata groove near the bottom ofeach ‘drawer piece to hold a Ythick hard board bottom, see detail ‘a on oppo- site page. After cuting out the five drawer bottoms (K), the drawers can be glued up and clamped. Next I mounted the drawer slides to the sdes ofthe drawersand paved the drawers inside the cabinet. This ‘way I could position the false fronts on. No. 118cach drawer so that there isan even ‘cap all arcund each drawer. FAISE FRONTS. The false fronts (L, ‘M) are made from "hick MDFcore plywood, see drawing in margin. Before attaching them to the draw- rs, Leut a shallow rabbet along the top edge of each false front, see detail ‘¢. This rabbet creates a recess for the drawer pall that gets added next (For more on cutting these wide rab- bets, see page 15) Once the rabbets are eut, the false fronts can be screwed tothe drawers, see detail ‘a’ To do this, { worked from the bottom drawer up, camer ing each false front to the drawer while attaching it. And I used some Ye! spacers to create an even gap all the way around each drawer, DRAWER PULLS. I could have used storebought pulls for this cabinet, but I wanted something that would match healuminum angle used on the ecrnersafthe cart. So Lmacle my ‘ow crawer pulls, tis time outof 11s" 1A! aluminum angie. ‘There's not much to making the pulls. They're simply five pieces of aluminum cutto kength, see drawing. After cleaning and buffing the alu- ‘minum, acountersunishote is drilled at each endfor the mounting screws, see detal‘c,‘Then the aluminum screwed to the drawer false fronts DRAWER 6RIFS. The aluminum angle byitselfdoest’t offer much of. grip foropening the drawers.Solereated alipby adding awood strip, or finger grip, to the underside of the ake ‘minum, see drawing. ‘These drawer A Once the pulls are serewed on, the drawer gris can be epoxied and clamped in place No. 118 er Sania ee FASS yt Bau DRE ey Sie @onaner aon yoo oe ie : Saas aa a SMALL DRAWER "75". { a slumnim onale TARGE DRAWER (eRoss SECTION, LY SS © sexr © Ph serew se grips (N) are just narrow pieces of W'thick stock, chamfered along the lower edges, see drawing, Then they are epoxied to the aluminum and. clamped in place, see pint. SUBING TRAY. For storing smallitems that might getlost, ladded a remor. OTe NOTE; Drawer pieces en Se Abra Seem teegees Sees iin eee Toe one (view | sw (erate a Bie ated oe able sliding tray to the top drawer. This tray is nothing more than a front, back, and two sides mace out of 4" me with a %4/shardboard bot tom, The tray rides on two" hard board runners that are glued to the sides of the drawer, see box below. started by cutting the front, ack and sides to size. ‘Then rabbetsare cut on the ends of the side pieces to t hold the front and back. Next arabbet is cutalonz the bottom edge ofall four pieves to hold the tay bot fom. Afierthe trayis glued up, the runners can be added, see detailAA simple hard- board template helps to ay cut the hol locations for the shelf pins. Shelf & Door ‘When designing the cart, I thought the storage area to the right of the drawers would be a good place for ‘keeping portable power tools or fin- ishing supplies. And to make the stor- ‘age compartment even more useful, Tmade a shelf to fit inside the com- partment and added a door to help ‘keep out the dust. SHELE. The shelt isa single piece of MDFore plywood with a hardwood edaing stip (o protect the veneer of the plywood from chipping as items are put back and forth on the shel). To make the shelf (S), [ began by cutting the plywood panel to size, see Fig: 3. Then I cut a couple of notches at the back of the shelf to allow it to ft around the stiles at the rear of the cart. Imade the edging strip (1) by just sipping a "wide piece off the edge ‘of a%!thick board, see Fig.3. Then after gluing the edzing strip to the ‘shetf,Itrimmed it lush with arouter ‘and a flushstrim bit. SHELESuPPORT HOLES The shelfis sup- ported by four brass spoon ypeshelf supports. These supports fitinto 1'- ia. holesdrilledin the end panel and raver guide panel, see drawing. To help ay out the holes, I made sim ple template see drawing in margin. ooR. With the shelf completed, the se sround ses next sep is to add a door Like the false fronts of the drawers, the door is also made of MDFcore plywood. Making the door (U) is simply a matter of cuting the plywood to ize and rebbeting one edlge forthe alt- ‘minum handle, see Fig. 4.To deter. mine the size ofthe door, measured theopeningin the cart and made the hight ofthe door 1" shorter than the opening to allow for a Ye" gap at thetop and boiom. Butwhenit came totite width, made the door 4" nar rower than the opening. Tis allows fora Ye’ gap on one side ofthe door, and an extra Yo! for the hinge. ( made my door 13th x 26%") ‘Once the door is cut to size, you ccan cut the rabbet and add the abe ‘minum pull and door grip (V). The procedure for this isthe same as that used on the drawer pulls, see Fig. 4b, “The door is attached with a con: tinuous (piano) hinge. Thisis simply ‘mounted to the right-hand edge of the door and then screwed tothe ight side of the door opening, see Fig. 4a. Finally, l added a couple of roller catches to the door, see Fig. 4c. ‘These catches will hold the door Cosed when you're wheeling the cart around in your shop. 2 he minum angle —"_~ Bh Woodsmith Ne. 118 €Top All that’s left to complete the cartis to make a top. Before doing this, how- ever, ladded four locking swivel cast- ers to the bottom of the cart, see rawing et ght ant detail Por more on these caters so page 35) ‘The casters are simply screwed to the bottom rails of the cart. With the casters attached to the cart-you ean sarton the to. (wat ect the top to be thick enough and tough enough to be use asa work orice, So (made a “eden using a layer of MDF plywood and a layer of 4" hardboard, see drawing. To do this, I simply cut a sub-top: OW) to size out of "thick plywood. ‘Then I glued the top panel (X) (an erie plece of ardboard to this subsop, using contact athesive ast, Tosser folen bstp ne uh wth the eubtop, To cover the edges of the top, I added some hardwood edging strips Y, 2), see drawing and detail ‘b.” ‘These are simply mitered to length andthen glued tothe edges of thetop. Before sttachingthe toptothe cart, Wx 2ie Frshost pe T routed an 4" chamfer on the top and bottom edges. Then I drilled countersunk shank holes inthe rails of the cart and screwed the top in place, see drawing and detail'b fuSH, When it came to selecting a finish for this too cart, 1 wanted tousesomething a bit tougher than my normal wipeon cil finish. So instead, | brushed ansicouple coats of a high-quality polyurethane fin. ropPanet (2 harcboard- AEE aT ish. This will pro- duce a layer of tough Protection to help the cart standup to the wear and tear of a shop environment. BY MATERIALS Whx3-34h Wax Bh-27 ply - 15% x35 End Panels (2) %4 ply ~ 20x 30 Back Panel (1) Yhdbd. - 30x 34% Dr. Slide Panels (2) Ys MOF x 1834 - 26% L. Dr. Fr/Back (6) Ye MOF - 5YA x 117% S. Dru. Fr/Back (4) ¥e MOF - 4x. 11% U Dir. Sides 6) Y MoF-5% x 18 S. Drove. Sides (@) Ye MOF-4 x 18 Drawer Botioms (5) Ya hdd. - 11% x 17% L False Fomts(3) 34 ply. - SYA x 13% MS. False Fronts (2) 3% ply = V4 x 13446 N Drawer Grips (6) 94x14 - 1346 © Tray FrontBack (2) MOF 1H x 10% Rails (4) Stiles (6) Bottom (1) PROS Eats one> CUTTING DIAGRAM & SUPPLIES {yf 48" x95" MOFcore mop plywood r= 40" x40" hardboord * QWhx202" Alm Ande @leoats) DWN De" Alum, Ange (length) Drawer Slides + Gpn 18" © (11 x20" Neel pated P Tray Sides (2) Mor 1149 Ceninoaus Hinge Q Tray Bottom (1) % hdbd. - 82 x 10% * Q) Roller Catches w/Strikes. R Tray Runners (2) Y hdbd. - 1% x17, LLL '* (4)%4"-dia. Shelf Supports Shelf (1) Dy. = 1A KITS oo * (@)4" Locking Snivel Casters T Shelf Edging (1) 94 x¥e- 175% > s)R6x4 Fh Ml Scews UW Door (1) A ply. - 13) x267e + GD gex1 MS MU Screws V Door Grip(!) %x'b- 261 (1) #14 xe Ph She MI. Serows WSub-Top (1) 4A ply. - 2114x3716 © (13).85% 1" hWoodscrovs X Top Panel (1) Ya hdbd. - 21% x 37% © (24) #B x 316" Fh Woodscrews Y¥ FrPback Edging (2) 4x 1-39 © Ute xZ¥e th she Mt, Sens Z Side Edaing@) x 1-23 Also needed! la"-48°x 48" hardboard for back No.3 Woodsmith 8eee cOu SHOP NOTES Working with Aluminum Asawondworker,Itend to «getalite intimidated atthe thought of working with metal. But fortunately, the aluminum angle used on thetoolcartdbesntimolve a whole lot of machining. Basically. allyoithave todo is cut the aluminum to Jength, “clean” up the sur faces, and érill and coun tersink the screw holes. The nice thing about working with aluminum is that it's relatively soft. So cutting it with an ordinary hacksaw isn't problem. Tn fact, aluminum is co soft you can even ext it on a table saw. Just make H the screwheads, I didn't use the same countersink that I normally use on my wood- working projects, Instead, I ‘used a countersink designed _especilly for metal. (The ones used aremade by a company. bby the name of Weldon.) ‘Traditional countersink bits are “fluted.” These flutes Because aluminum is such a remove material by “reaming” soft metal, I didn't have any out small chips. On wood, they trouble drilingholesin twith do.an adequate job of eutting. ‘edinary twist cri bits But on metals, they tend to However, when it came to “chatter”, leaving a counter- countersinkitig the holes for sink with a wavy ssire to wear safety glass- es and use your miter ‘gauge to support the ‘workpicce. And use only a carbidetooth saw blade. The aluminum we pur chased hada fewseraiches ‘and scuffs, not to mention the machining marks left from the mill. So after cut ting the pieces to length, the next step is toremove these marks and create a lean, smooth surface. The first step in doing this isto wet sand the alt= ‘minum with sion carbide (wet/dry) paper, see Fig. 1. I started with 100-grt paver and then continued | surf atumium nth abrarve pod Cea ee ea on with 150, 180, and 220- srits. Next, the aluminum is buffed with an abrasive pad, see Fig. 2 After getting the alu- minum all buffed out, 1 noticed something, Every fingerprint stood out ikea sore thumb (no pun intend: ed). So to keep the alu minum looking nice, 1 surface: These waves then pre: vent the head of the screw from fully seating. But instead of flutes, the Weldon bits have 2 hole through the middle, The cut ling edge of the bit s actualy formedby the edgeofthishole, “And Since there's only onecat ting edge, you get a contin us, curly chip rather than a letof shavings, seephoto at lft. The “ Woodsmith resultisa smooth countersink. ‘Weicion conniersinks come in various diameters for dit ferent screw sizes. And aithough they're designed to ceut metal, they work equally well when countersinking hholes in wood. (For sources, see page 35.) ‘wiped all the surfaces down ‘vith mineral pitts, Then] sprayed on a coat of dear lacquer, see Fig. 3. (Onee the lacquer is dry, you can drill and counter- sink the screw holes unusual about this, but I did use a special type of countersink No. 18 wyMortising for a Continuous Hinge When making a shallow mortise for a continuous (piano) hinge, I typically use a straight bit and a hand-held roater, But mak- ing the hinge mortise for the lap desk proved to bea bitmore of a challenge. For one thing, the back exlge ofthe deskcis beveled, ‘see photo and Fig, 1, So rather than try to hold the router at an angle while making the mortise, I decided to use a router tableinstead. With arouter table, the router remains flat while the desk is sim ply placed face down on the router tabletop, Using a router able in duces anew problem, Since the hinge doesn’t run the full width of the desl, the ‘mortise is stopped at both ends. But with the desk placed face down on the router table, you can't see the ends ofthe mortise as you're routing. So instead of routing the mor tise in one long, ‘continuouspass, [nibbled away the waste in a series of short passes by mov- the desk: back and forth, ‘ver the bit, see Fig. 2 The key here isto start and stop the mortise about V6! away from the ends, seo Fig, 2a. ([érew layout lines on fhe back of the desk to maric the end. points) Then the ends of themprtsecan be squared up with a sharp chisel Poet edge of deck betes Whenever Iusespoon-tyle shelf pins, I can usually count on the weight ofthe shel tohelp hold itn place. But the shelves used! with the storage pedestal are so ‘small and light, was con- cerned they might get knocked off the pins every time an item wes removed from the shel, So instead of simply set ting the shelf ontop ofthe shelf pins, routed stopped slots on the edges of the shelves to allow them to fit, over the pins, see drawing and detail‘. To do this, I clamped « stop block to the fence of my router table. Then, using an "straight it cen- tered on the thickness of the shelves, I routed a stopped slotonthe edges of cach, see details b’and'c. Shop Note: Some shelf pins may fitalite too snug inan Jaluvide slot. fthisis the case, you! need to file down the pins slightly until they ft. Cutting Wide Rabbets ‘The aluminum pulls we used on the tool cart are screwed into shallow, wide rabbets cut on the front of the drawers and door. But there are a couple of ways to make these rabbets. Onemethod isto cut the rabbets on a able saw. You ‘can make the shoulder cut first, then raise the blade to make the check cut, see No.8 Figs. 1 and 1a, “The second option fs to use a router table and 2 straight bit. Just raise the bit to match the depth of the rabbet (14!) and posi lion the fence to establish the shoulder, see Fig. 2, ‘Then rout the rabbet by making several passes, moving the fence as need- ed, sce Fig. 2a. OY WoodsmithVU: HCO) 081 STORAGE PEDESTAL ¢ What you see is a classic-looking pedestal with a marble top. What you don’t see is a door that opens to reveal a hidden storage compartment. frst lace, there seems tobe noth ng about this pedesialtha’s outof ‘the ordinary. Ithasallthe features that make fora classiclooking pedestaland ‘aninteresting project to build —a ted ‘case, dentil mokding, and even a piece ‘of marble tile on top. But there's more to this project than ‘what you can see. In fact, its whet you canttsee that makes itunique. On the inside, there's a secret storage com- partment designedto hold videos,com- endedup being pretty simple. The door pact dises, and the lik. pivots open and closed on two 1A"din, ‘The real trike when designing the _steelpins And toctset the pins enough “secret” compartment was coming up to allow the door to open, there’s a with way to et into it—an invisible” thicker post at each corner so the pin door. Buta door isn't an easy thing to could be located farther away from the hide. Youhave to make sure the hard _case'sides, se the’ Top Section View on ‘ware fs completely out of view. page 17 The thicker posts have anoth- ‘A brass knuckle, even a small one er benefit: The front right post also son a knife hinge, would have been serves as a handle for the door. a dead giveaway. And Truled out the OPTIONS. Besides the sccret com. Europeamstyle concealed hingesright _ partment, there are a couple of option away too. They/re completely hidden, alfeaturesyoumight want to consider ‘but they take up room inside the case Ifyou don't want to use onarble tile in anclcan getin the way. And wanted the the top, you can substitute a wood inside to look as “clean” possible. panel. And there's alo an optional CD Viladmitittookacouple ofattempts case thatfits inside, Formore on these to “hide” the door, but the solution options, sce page 23 CUTTING DIAGRAM 21 etx 96" Chowry U6.3 Ba Ft) A A 2 tlie x72" Cherry (1.4 Bd. Ft) We x 5a" x 96" Cherry (4.3 Bal Fe) AEH £96" Chey wo Boars 8.3.7 fe aC) Eevee [eye pay] | & ae 236" ‘Alte Needed: eT TS) oer x6" plecesor tick pod ST One ei nae" pee of thick harabonrd Woodamith No. 118OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 36" x 112" x 112" 2: 3 ond ‘enti MATERIALS & SUP! PeDEsTAL Orrions ‘A Dooifback (2) 44x6¥%a-30% Shelves (4) x5 % B Sides (2) YxGhic.-30% MCD Case Sides ©) 2x 4%4x 7% © Posts (@) 1x1-30% ——N Case Top/Bim.@) 4x ax 5% D Cove Molding ®) 34x2- 9/4 + (12) #8 x 24 Fh Woodscrews E Molding Panels (2) ¥% ply -6 x6 + 2) %" x 194" Steel Fins F Dentil Molding (8) ¥ex2%- 10% « () 3" id. 2%" od, Sieel Weshers G Top Molding) %4x1%-11% (1) g* x8" Marble Tie H Top Panel(1) Yerba. BY2x8% « (@) a8 x 1" Fh Woodscrews 1 Filer stips(1) — Yax 142-30 (@) #8 x 1H" Rh Woodscrons cade} %x2e- 11% —« (16)Y4" Spoonsstyle Sho'f Pins K Cleats (¢) %xV-10 ——« (1) Magnetic Catch wiScrew No. 118 ‘Woodsmith SIDE SECTION VIEW ‘TOP SECTION VIEW nore: Chet see pin Slows doorto dear Gasetahen openingPedestal Case ‘The pedestal ease consists of four thick futed panels with a "square Dost at each corner, see drawing at right. Three of these panels will be ‘ued to the back two posts so you end up with a U-shaped case assem- bi. Then the remaining pieces are ‘glued together to ereate the door in front. However, to make things as simple as possible, each ofthe pancis and posts start off exactly the same. ‘When designing and building the case, [ was a bit concerned thatthe door would cup badly. There's no frame to hold it square, and ifs not screwed to the top and bottom mold ing lke the other parts ofthe case. So instead of using a single board for creating the panels, I glued up the 5YA"ide panels ont of two pieces, being careful to select stock with ‘grain that was as straights possible. ‘aves. Al four ofthe panels canbe glued up this way. And ater the gue isdry,youcan cutthe door (A), back. (A) andsides (B) to final with (64°) and rough length G1), see drawing. Note: Theses willbe imme: 64" ‘wide later, but for now, i's easier to leave all the panels the same. ‘Aiter the pane's were sized, [cut the flutes. Lused a ia. straight bit in therouter table rtherthan a dado blade because I wanted smooth, fat: bottomed flutes, see Fig. 1. And at only 14"eep, each ute can be rout: din just one pass To do this, [laid out the fates on the end ofonly one ofthe panels, see drawing in margin. ‘Then Lined up the bit with the layout mark and cat the fates on all the panels. ‘ote thatthe fstes on the outside arealitle wider than 6" (ocreatea tongue late). So they require two passes. But ifyou stat atthe layout Tineand work out, you mightrun into ‘some chipout. So you'll want to start. with the outside pass first, see Figs. Land 1a. Then routto the layoutline onthe second pass. ‘With the huesroute the next step is to create a tongue on the edges of the panels, see Fig. 2. (These hold ‘the corner posts that are added later) ‘To create the tongue, [ routed arab- bet on the inside face of the panel. “The width ofthe tongue shoul be nore: Somiimise eaneoirem five pres +40 Bat as forthe thickness ofthe tongue, youTlwant sneak up on the height of the bit until the remaining tongue fits into alec leftby your saw blade, sce Fig. 2a. (Testthe fitby eut fing a test kerfin apiece of scrap.) FOSTS. At this point, you can set aside the panels and begin working on the four posts (C) for the corners, see drawing above, These pieces are planed and ripped 1" square and cut to the same rough length as the pan- cls, (Leut my posts 31"long,) Next, [cut!4""deep grooves on the inside faces of the posts, see Fis. 3. 8 Woodsmith g id 4 Eb Hl ZA No. 118“These grooves are to hold the tongues onthe panels. And they're positioned so that theinsidefuce ofthe ranels will be flush with the inside faces ofthe posts, refer to Fix. 4a. ‘The thing tokeep in mind isnotall four posts are exactly the same, The door osishave only one groove .each to hold the door panel, see Fig, 3a. However, each back post has treo grooves —one tohold the back pane! and one fora side panel, see Fig. 0. The fence position is the sane for both grooves buttocutthem cose to the inside corner of the post, youll ‘need to flip and rotate the pieces. ANGLE POS ASSEMBLY. At this point, the posts can be glued to each side of the doorand back pancls, see Figs + and 4a. When ding this, just make ‘ure thatthe inside faces ofthe posts and panels are fish. Dont worry too much about get ting the ends perfectly even during assembly. After the elu is dry, the next step isto trim a litle off each ‘end, cating the panel assembes (and ‘Side panels) to finished length G04, see drawing on page 18, Shop Note: These long workpieces are a bit unwieldy, so I attached an aunliary fence to my miter gauge to add some support. And I clamped a stop block tothe fence to make sure they all enced up the same length ‘Thereare sila few oddsandends left. On the sides, I trimmed off the tongue on the front edge of each pane, see Fig. 5. Then [ drilled two sets of heles on the inside of each side panel for the ¥é-dia, shelf pins thathotd the shelves. (Younightwant to create a hardboard template for driling these fa-deep holes) Finally, Trouted astopped 4" cham fer on the outside comer ofeach post, see Fig. 6. These chamiers stop 1'4" from the top and bottom of the post. And to do this, I simply marked start and stop lines on the router fence. ‘ASE ASSEMBLY. Now the case canbe assembled, see drawing below. The ‘wickewhen clamping up this Ushaped assembly is Keeping it square. So to Ino the sides square tothe bac Tout two spacers to match the inside ofthe case (6" x6"). Cut off the corners to prevent the spacers from being glued into the assembly. And when the glue is dry, don’t throw the spacers avay. ‘They'llcomein handy whenattaching the molding that’s added next.Dew, MOLDING} © Cove & Dentil Molding ‘With the pedestal case complete, to layers of mokling can beaded tothe top and bottom of the case. The top and bottom layers are identical, and they're notjust decorative. They trap the door with two steel pins that allow the door to swing open and shut. COVEMOLOING. The layer of molding Closest to the top and bottom of the cease are two thick frames with a ‘cove molding profierouted on all four sides, see drawing and detail’? To create the cove molding (D), I started with 2"-wide blanks and initered them so Id er up with two frames that were 914" square. (The ‘ramescverhanathe posts") Then toholdapane! Tout a centered groove ‘on their inside edges, see detail a” The thick plywood molding panels (E) that tin the grooyeswill form the top and bottom ofthe case interior So when creating the tongues, ‘postion them so the inside face ofthe panel is flash with the inside face of the frame. Then each frame ean be ‘glued together around the panel Now, before routing the cove on the molding pices I glued the frames together. (is hart glue the mitered pieces togetherifthe profiles already routed) Then when the gite was dry, routed 2 1" cove, see Fig. 7 DENTIL MOLDING, The next layers to add are the dentil molding, see draw- ing above. These ¥"thick frames are built he same way as the cove mold ing (but there’s no plywood panels) First, [mitered 2¥6"vide blanks to length to ereate two 10¥4"-square dentil molding (F) frames, see draw ing. allowed a 4" overhang.) ‘Then after the frames were glued up, [laid out the dentits on ane edge ‘of one of the frames, see Figs. Sand ‘a The dentilsare cut with a tA"-wide éado blade, using an auniliary miter gauge fence with a stop. With each stop block setting, cut one dentil on ‘ach edge ofbth frames. Then reset the sop block and repeat. When the dentilmoldingis cut, you canglue the cove and dentil molding: frames tether, see Fig: & But before screwing the molding assemblies to. the top and boitom of the case, I added the door. oo fein Ah No. 118Adding the Door ‘The door sandwiched between the two molding assemblies and pivots ‘onsteel pins. And to prevent the door from rubbing at the bottom against the molding, [placed thin washers between the door and the molding at both the top and boitom. ‘The first step isto clamp the door to the front of the case, see Fig. 9 Justmake sure that the pos infront ‘and back line up, sce Fig. Sb. Next, the molding assemblies can beset inplaceso they're centered at the topand bottom ofthe case. Here's here the spacers used earier real ly come in handy. I carpet taped one to the inside face of each assembly, see Figs. 9 and $e, When set in the ‘ease the spacer centersthe molding, and keeps itfrom shifting, ‘With the molding temporarily in place, [traced the left corner ofthe oor atthe top and bottom, see Fig. 10, By measuring ins, youll have the exact position ofthe pibt holes for the tec pins, sce Fig, Ua. Now lif the molding assemblies off the case and drill the holes. To ‘make sure they're straight, itsaxzood {dea touse the drill press, see Fig. 11. ‘And while you're att, you can also lay out and drill the countersunk shank holes for serowing the molding tothe case, see Fig. a With thepilotholes drilled, ifs me to rans" them the door. Tet the molding back on the case and used the pilot holes asa guide for driling into the door, see Figs 12 and 12a, There's stil one more thing to do before you can attach the molding and door. The door needs to be trimmed slightly so it doesn't rub against the molding, see Fig. 13.1 No. 118 ie. ole ‘nore: ( prifpioe =H notes hiborh top ard bottom tvimmed my door slightly less than ihe thickness of vo steel washers, ‘After the door was trimmed, 1 clamped it back to the case, making sure the gaps at the top and bottom ‘wore the same, Then [slipped awash erbetween the molding and the door atthe topand bottom and added ain tothe hole, see drawing and detal at below. (Thispin should ftprety snag, NOTE: Pin must Hetght mFole fordoor‘ pivot smoathy wre Boo pin Otherwise the fit of the door will be sloppy) Trim the pins flush with the outside of the molding. And don’t worry about gluing it— the top and base of the pedestal will rap the pin when they're added later. Finally, with the door captured between the molding, I screwed the ‘molding assemblies to the case and removed the spacers, see drawing. SIDE SECTION EW (Tim tee! in ash2 Top & Base (Once the molling is screwed in place, all that’s leftis toadd the topand base of the pedestal, see drawing. Toe FRAME The tops similar tothe cove molding slcady attached. Butit has a hardboard panel that supports apiece of 8'-square marble tile. (You can add a hardwood panel instead of the marble, see next page.) Marble tile isn't always exactly 8" square, so. you need to have your tle on hand before building the top. (For more on buying marble ile, see page 35) Isizedthe top molding (G) pieces 80 the finished frame wraps tight around the fle onthe inside and over hangs the dentil 54" on the outside, ‘see detail ‘a’ (My top frame pieces were 134" wide and 119" long.) ‘Then T cut a groove inside each frame piece and cut a Yi" hardboard top panel (H) to fit inside. Position the grooves so the marble tile will. stand slightly proud of the frame. Aiter gluing the frame around the hardboard, [routed a ¥3" cove. Then I glued some filer strips (I) under the hardboard and seewed the tonto the dentil molding with #8x 1" screws, St. Like the top, the base also has acove profile. But ithas a foot profile along the bottom too, see drawing. After the base (J) pieces are cut, to width 214", I glued a 1 #-wide cleat (K) to the inside edge of each Piece, flush with the top edge. Then mitered these pieoes to the same Tength as the top pieces (1114. ‘Next, I eid out and cut a fot pro- file on each withaband saw, se detail “d! After the base pieces have been slued intoa frame, [routed aiA"cave profile around the top edge. Nowthe base assembly can be screwed tothe bottom of the pedestal. MAGNETIC CATCH & SHELVES. To hoki the door closed, I added a magnetic catch at the center of the door post, see detail b: To avoid a gap between the door and case, countersink the hole so the catch is flash, For the ke. Plate, | used a brase-plated steel screw, Finally, cut four shelves (L) to fit inside the case. (Or add CD cases, see next page.) Lused spoon-style pins to. ‘support the shelves, buthid the pins in grooves, see page 15. =~ SecroN view or paves Jerse OCF e Marie ws ae ; wx s hae sito : a a : Se ma b. ea ae a ee || | | asst ®~ Ze 1 A woreon Feast locas ore mitered) ‘Woodsmith No. 118Optional CD Case ‘The inside of this pedestal is perfect for holding compact discs. But instead of buying plastic Cp holders, I made my own, see photo at right. Each case holds twelve dacs, and they're fede ioyoutan facts inside the pedestal. (They'll also sit on the shelf pins in case you want to use both shelves and CD cases.) ‘wes. The first thing to dois cut the two sides (MD for each case to size from %4"-thick stock, see drawing at right. (Mine were 494' x 7°A") These pieces ate aed to atk four high inside the case with no gap at the top. So it’s a good idea to make sure you can fit four sides inside your case. ‘Next, to make it easier to feed the co's the ease. the saw bile 45¢ and bevel the front edge of each piece, see Figs. 1 and la ‘The CD's fit into 7ie-wide dadoes cutin the sides. Tid outthese dadoes fn one of the pieces, starting at the center. At the ends, there will be A" left over forthe rabbets thathold the top and bottom. When the dadoes arclaid out, reise the dado blade to make a 4"“deep cut and usea stop block to maice sure all the dadoes align, see Fig. 2 After thedladoes were cat, [raised the blade and cut the iA"-deep rab- ‘bets on the ends, see Fig. 2a. 10? dois cuta top and bottom (N) to it in the rabbets, see drawing below right. These pieces match the width 30TTOM. Now all that’ eft to OPTIONAL WOOD TOP Although our pedestal holds apiece of amurble ital looks nice witha wood panel instead, see photo aright. Tsiarted by gliing up a blank and then ‘rimming the panel" wider and longer than the opening inthe frame. (The thick: ness of the blank should be the depth of the openinggin the top phis an’ oro, sec drawing at left) Ti g9palows IF panel exsand With the panel eutto sive, (rab- beted the bottom edge so the Panel would fit into the opening. ‘Toallowroomfor expansion, cut the rabbet wide enough to ere- No. 118 aica is! gapateach edge. Then Woodsmith of the sides (47A"). And their length should allow the assembled ease to slide into the pedestal without any aps on the sides. (Mine were 5" Tong.) Then the four pieces of each case can be glued together. 1 nore: Pedestal oil oi fourcaser sneak up on the depth ofthe rabbet so the tongue rests on the top frame. Finally, round over the top edge of tho ‘panel starting with the ends, and set (do ‘not glue) the panel into the opening. 2B24 AON PROJECT LAP DESK Here’s a lap desk for markers and crayons — or pencils and compasses. And you won't need to worry about running out of baper anytime soon. G osprosstossate toe arc lap top computers? Wel, kids forone, Atleast that’s what Todd, our art director, tells me, He has two daughters who go through crayons and paper faster than I go through sandpaper and glue. And this deskeis sized justright for them. Next, Todd pointed out that a lap deskishandy to have in the shop too. Andbe'sright There's never enough bench space to sketch up an idea for ajig or write a materials list. (And it thereis space on thebench, itusually hhas alayer or two of dust, anyway.) By this ime, Iwas eketching some design ideas. I wanted to keep the desk inexpensive and simple. So its built with pine, 14" plywood, and & small piece of plastic laminate, ‘Thocorners ofthe case are joined with miters, And I added splines across the joint These do more than add strength — they also add a dec- ‘orative touch. For more on adding: decorative splines, check outthe arti- le on page 30. While we were working out the design, Todd suggested an intrigu ing feature: create a compartment that would hold a 12"-wide roll of paper. The paper would feed out the back and be held down hy 2 couple ‘guides. This way, you never have to ‘worry about running out of paper. ‘And you don'thave to hold the paper inplace when drawing, Plus, there's sillplenty of room inside for pencils, triangles and compasses — or crayons, markersand coloring books. ‘Woodsmith A The guide ber does more than just hold the paber down. I's also a straigheedge cha helps ow end up witha dean, straight tear when. semeving your masterpece No. 118: + tine Construction Details ravcncovm note ld OVERALL DIMENSIONS: } pine: Bywood maple 17%" x 13%" x Fie" 1 Piola ‘od m a Guid ar nlde ‘oper down ‘nd hele when froring off paper, ‘Se photo below left IMitere corners are Strengthened with Gecofatvesplines, ‘seepage 30 NOTE: AM case pieces, Bre Ie" thick skeopt bottom MATERIALS & SUPPLIES CUTTING DIAGRAM | A Sides (2) Bex Perah.- 15% yr 57-48" Pine (1.859. Ft) B Back (1) x 3% rah. - 13% © Front(i) 36x Peron. - 13% A 4 | 5 D sottom (1) Yapy- 13 15% E Front Divider (1) 3@x 21h - 13 F Back Dyider(1) 38x 3igh - 13 ex 31e 48" Pe (1.254 Fe) G LidPanels(2) Ya py. 12% 12% = F EE H Handle (1) Yar x22 12% ee TATELIT Ae 1 Paper Guide (1) Yet x 1% 12% SiR —