Mantle Clock * Firewood Carrier * Coat Rack ° Spice Rack * Lap Dovetail Joinery 20 /No. 119 (LLG IMLS apOo ALLO MANTLE(CLOCK, ae Eire Projects: Se Hr git 1H TE TUES [eH | Cy a Dress up Your Od TL Our Classic Spice Rack LORS CG) Making Lap PUESNo. 119 October, 1998 Publisher Donald B Peschke Terry). Srokman Vincent Ancona ‘Todd lambirth Dirk Ver steeg Mike Miverscier Associate Bditors Art Director (CREATIVE RESOURCES Cree Dc Te Nk » Projet eco Rena * S-Phe senor: Kent West, Kein © Be Sp ‘Masao Seve Cars » Sp Cian Shon» Sor ‘Ptah Cra ged “Sinicr Grae Desener. Chis Gh Gros intr: VoNeen * Eto Inter Josep rin ‘ARCULATION Sie Ses Dior Say Bas No Panes Dire: Gon Bath i: Rn ol = 1 te Sn or: Pa pr tase «dae Crp Da +S. Gupic age Chayll Sees CORPORATE SERVICES. * Soles Saft Pat Lowry erone Herr, Wendell tone, Si Barett, Ray Sih, John Johnson Ofer Menage Vics ade See, SCH eters emia aor ae re Sere = oeaieae ox 2, Des, Eeeeaaicss oa. fe sre EpITor’s COLUMN SAWDUST Aerenee ee call asking me to judge a wood- ee ‘wasn’t an accomplished woodcarver. (ve taken astab at chip carving a few times and done a little relief carving.) But they said itwas okay because they oped spective.” And since the other judges oe ee cautiously agreed. A cts dy te judging, I was amazed at the number and variety of projects that had been entered. They ranged in size from large. eae And the workmanship and attention to. -dcteil was certainly inspiring. Segoe ee Sa cee ‘ested in whowon or lost. But they were. truly interested in what they needed to do to improve their carving. ee oon ‘one before. Perhaps this meant exper- menting with anew tool or technique. Ortryinga different approach to work Ce Either way the goal was simple — to “stretch” their skills. Maybe that’s why I enjoyed myselfso much. Aiter all, it's the challenge of continually improv- ing my skills that’s one of the things I Tike best about woodworking. 1 guess that’s part of the appeal of ec eee ‘Woodsmith vies a great opportunity to expand ‘your woodworking skills MUNTEE CoG. Take the Mantle Clock ‘on page 6 for example. Here, he ctal- Tenge is to create three molded mor- tise and tenon frames. (Twa for the ‘ies and oneforthe door) Butbecause the pices are relatively mall, errors tendto be very obrious, soitbecomes ‘even more important io make accurate cuts and fit the joints carefully. Once you've mastered this technique on the clock, you can apply it to larger pro- jects aswell. SPKERAG. Another project that gives yout an opportunity to stretch your ‘woodworking skills is the Spice Rock featured on page 28. At first glance, there doesn't really seem to be much, tothis project. After all, itsjust twelve pieces of thin sock and a ew Shaker ‘pegs But what makes this projectinter- esting isthe lap dovetail joinery. And don’t worry if you've never cut a lap dovetail joint before — we've inckided an article on page 32 that takes you through the process step by step. en AMNATON. Finally, ifyou'd Eke to try something completely different, check outthe Firewood Carrier (page 14) and Coat Rack (page22). Both pro- sects incorporate pieces of wood that are “bent” by laminating thin strips together: Bent laminationisn'tnearly as ‘complicated as it might seem first. In fact, think youll nd it’s true ofmost “new techniques. Once you decide to give ita try, ks really pretty simple. No. 119 weA LOOK INSIDE CONTENTS Features Mantle Clock .. Teste ble profile, espa a lok alte met buile-up moldings and a handful of erdimary router bits. (You probably kave most of them in your shop alread.) Firewood Carrier 14 This firewood carrier is extremely strong and durable eae lightweight. The secretis in the bent lamination construction, which wakes advancage of the nacural srengih of the wood. Bent Lamination .... 18 ou don’ het ie Storrnn talbend ereh A pincctis shop-made bending form, some clamps and a bottle of glue. The secret isto siart with thin, flexible smips of wood. Coat Rack Looking for a place to hang your hat? Ty ths nifty coat tack on for size. It features simple, curved “hooks,” which are a great opportunity to try your hand at bent lamination Spice Rack Although it doesn't take much time or wood, this spice rack involves a variety of techniques — from resawing to cutting lap dovetails. And you'll never have to hunt for spice jars again. Lap Dovetails sO estcccec arene 32 Lap dovetails are a little bit different than your ordinary dovetail joint. They're a good choice for joining a rail with a frame or leg, and they look great as well. Resawing Lumber Need some thin stock for your next project? You don’t need to own thickness Planes to get tt. We'll show yous how to use you table saw to safely resaw lumber into thin stock. Departments Tips & Techniques .... Shop Notes ........ : Z SOM COS hc teen sm neta tye 35 No. 119 WoodgmithFROM FELLOW AN YOYe Weld cats Tips & TECHNIQUES Chamfer Tip Tm always worried about tearout when routing cham- fers on a workpiece, espe- cially on the end grain. To avoid this problem, Isand the chamfers instead, using a sanding disk mountedin my table saw. [simply tlt the sanding disc to a45" angie. Thento provide a bearing surface for the workpiece, I camp a block of wood to my rip fence, just above the height of the disk, see drawing and detail ‘a? To sand a chamfer, sim- ply feed the workpiece into the rotating sanding dise and push it forward. You can vary the size of the chamfer by moving the fence in orout. Henry Fischer Hrsting-on Hudson, New York Attaching Glass Stops When attaching wood glass stops to @ frame or door Tike to predrill holes for the brads or screws to of ferpterceto = sovearbeanng z — Mier peuge “ae inode ton push focord a. 7] END VIEW my i a i wares ar Show att ff there's not enough clear CORKS ance for my drill “To getaround this prob- Put a Cork in It Jem, [keep a narrow strip ‘The top of my work- ‘The corks provide of glass handy. The strip bench has a row of soli, lat surface. And allows me to position the round holes for beach when T need to use a lass stop but still have dogs Inorderto prevent hole, Tsimply push the small parts from fing cork through with the through theholes Iphig bench dog. them with corks from Don Kenesy empty wine battles. WescPeth, Ausoale New Life for Broken Blades ios stats espace ‘losssteo Forcutting ight curves, like to use an YAlsvide blade in my band saw. But because these blades are so narrow, they have atendency to Instead ofsimpy ss- ing out the broken blades, Tut them up aad reuse them in my serall saw The anes: sive cutting action of these blades makes them greet for roughing ‘out work. Robert Rotman Palos Hels, nos No. 119Knock-Down Clamping Table Trying to glue up large Tspaced thenetches for panels or frames on a theckmps cbout 12" apart small workbench can be And to avoid a "knuckle difficult. Usually Lend up buster” situation, I made working in the midde of sure the notches for the the gerage floor. So sawhorse weren't posi instead, Tcame up with tioned directly under one this idea for aknodedown of the clamp notches. clamping table To use the table, simply The “table” is really place the rails over the nothing more than a cou —sawhorses end then set the ple of2x4 rls that are sup- clamps into the Venotches. ported by a pair of The rails can be placed sawhorses, see drawing. A closer or further apart to Yp'-deeo notch is cut in accommodate different both ends of each rail to lengths of pipe clamps. allow them to fit over the And when you're all done, sawhorses Anda series of therails simply Ii offand ‘Vanoiches along the top of can be stored in a corner. each rail holds the pipe Cre Hetue lamps, see detal a” Norenok, Tinos Table Saw Switch Extension never cared for the loca thefloor anges tothe saw. tion of the switch on my Thread one end of the nip- contractor's saw. Tucked ple into the flange. Then underneath the tabletop on add the second flange to the front of the saw, the theother end ofthe nipple. ‘witch wasdificultto locate The power cord can bo without taking my eyes fished throughs the center away frommy work (adan- of the flanges and the nip- ‘gerous situation). pleand wired to the switch, Tomake the switch eas- see detail‘ below. iertofind, [extended tout Shop Note: Depending fromthe saw.Allittakesis on the type of switch your a couple of pipe floor saw has, you may need to flanges andaniron pipe nip- house the switch in zn elee- ple, seedrawing atright trical box. Simply remove the switch and mount one of Paul Kincaid Laurence, Kenses ALT OD my If you would like to share an original shop-tested set ‘tc: Woodemith, Tips and’Techniques, Grand Avenue, Des Moines, lowa 60312. Or if t's easier, PAK it to us at: 515-2820741, Or use ur E-Mail address: woodsmith@voodsmith.com. ‘and sketch oF photo, If your ip is published, you'l receive $30 to $150, ‘depending on the published length. And don't ‘worry, welll rewrite the tip and redraw the art, if necessary Also, please include a daytime phone ‘SIDE VIEW NOTE: Notch for sawhorse offset from Verotches Sizenotch to | HE over seahorse < Common iron Dipe ieings can be used to ‘extend a table saw switch ay Food power | cord firoagh \ ‘orger sn | Back of Batch ; WoodsmithHEIRLOOM Oe ) MANTLE CLOCK Initially, your eye is drawn to the handsome, molded top of this clock. But a second look through the glass sides reveal an intricate clock movement. held a certain fascination for me. I think mechanism is hidden inside a case. To me, that's like looking at an automobile without being able to open the hood. ‘Sides are glass so you can see right in to the ‘brass clock movement inside. And a glass Breese avon te lock end adjust the hands. Butaside irom the glass panels, there were other details about this clock that got me ‘excited about building one. Take the top of the ‘elock, forexample. It looks like a thi ed on the edges. But in reali ‘Of three separate pieces. And the profile is Se etter tnsrone ube ‘aid some commonly available router bits. ‘QUARTZ MOVENENT. Of course, not everyone Shares my fascination for clocks. So we also = tlesigned this mantle clock to accept a bat terypowered, quartz movement. Aside from being ess expensive, you dont-have toworry about winding this clock. And since there isn'tmuch tolook at with a quart movement, ‘we substituted wainut plywood panetsforthe slassin the sides. (See the box on page 13) ‘HARDWARE, One more thing. We had a some- ‘what difficult time loceting the exact hard- ware, movement znd clock dal that we were Jooking for. Although we eventually found eve#ything we wanted, wehad to go to acow- Pee of different sources. To make things eas- Jet, weve put together a very limited m ber ofkits which include a mechanical move ‘ment, dial and all the hardware. For more on this, aswell as information on kits with quartz Movements, see sources on page 35. No. 119NOTE: Molded Construction ee Deaale st OVERALL DIMENSIONS: Gis sges 18°HX 118° Wx7%6"D erga, trechonism Magnetic ‘catch lock ia! fob “oe orton Silt are mitered ear and Ste conseacted with modes Imortbeane tenon jon ‘CROSS SECTION MATERIALS A Side Rais (@) — %4x2-3% —_* (1) 4A” Antique Brass Handle B Fri /Bk. Stiles (A) 3%Aax1%-9% + (1) %"-dia. Antique Brass Knob © Fre /Bi. Panels (2) Yap 874x%% + [1 pr) 1" x1" Antique Brass Hinges D TopPonal(1) 3x 6%-11%4 + (1) MiniBrass Knob E Base Ft/8k.@) %x1%-11% — - [1)5%0" dia, Magnetic Catch F Base Sides(2) 24x 1%-7% = (4)%4" Brass Tumbuttons G Base Panel(1) 94x 6%-10% + (8) #8 X14" Fh Woodscrews H Filler Panels 2) Yaply.-cuttofit + (4)#8 x 114" Fh Woodsaews, 1 LowerCap(1) %x5%-10/ + (4)#4 x56" Rh Brass Woodscrews J Upper Cap(1) 34x4-8% = (4) #2 x4" Ro Brass Woodscrews K DoorRails(2) %x1%=9 «= (1) Trple-Chime Movement and Dial L DoorSties 2) 34x 1%4-97 + (32) #1836" Wire Brads M Glass Stop Ya xh 56in. + (2)%6" Glass Pancls Wa" x256" 6/4") NN Support Block (1) ¥2x3-3 + (1)¥6" Glass Panel (a! x7" -776") CUTTING DIAGRAM Ye x7* 49" Walnut (2.33 BF) ay [x] . « I 7-48" Welt (2.33 86 F) [aa ees alAlala Also Needed: 24° » 24" shoat of Ma" walt plywood No. 119 ‘Woodsmith 7AA simple jig holds the stiles upright while the molded deo is rimmed, se page 26 for ‘more formation. Sides Tultihis cock rom the center ot. In other words, started wit the sides and front and back, and then sand- wiched these pieces between the top and bottom panel, ‘Thesidesofthe clock are made up ‘of rails and stiles joined by ordinary ‘mortise and tenon joints. Nothing faicy. But the inside edge of each piece is moided to create a “frame” around the glass. This means that youll have to do alittle trimming and fitting to get the pieces to fit tozeth- er. But that comes later. To start with, Icut the blanks for the rails (A) and stiles (B) o width from ‘A!thick stock, leaving the blanks longer than needed for th time being, see drawing and éetal “Then the molded edges created on therouter table witha” roundover Bit. see Figs, 1and ta, To make therabbet for the glass, I ‘switched tothe table saw, see Figs. 2 md2a,Adado blade buried inane iiary fence cuts anice, clean rabbet. ‘montis. With Gieroundovers and rabbets completed, you can trim the rails and stiles to finished length, see rawing. Before you can start work: ingon the mortise and tenon joints, however, there's one other detail to tend to. In order to allow the rails to fittighily against the stiles, youIhave to timoffpartof themoldededgeat the ends of each stile. This can be ‘done with table sew and a simple = ae tries eee Pee ve jig that holds the workpiece upright, see photo in margin. (For more on this, see page 26) Then I drilled out the waste for each mortise and squaredup the ends and sides with a chisel, see Figs. 3 and Sa TENONS. With the mortises made, you can cutthe tenons onthe ends of eRONT sme ore: make Bul ols A seepage ‘NOTE: Tenons Bre centered on ‘hieinos of ale the rails tofit, see Figs. 4 and 4a. On these pieces, you don'thave to worry about trimming back the molded edge sinceit’sremoved when youcut the tenon, see Figs. 5 and 5a. There is some trimming to be done before the mortise and tenon joints can actually be fitted together, Be Aaach sunny ance or fence No. 119however. The ends of the molied edges must be mitered at 45° to allow the rails and stiles to fit togeth- ct To miter these edges, I made a simple Jg, see photo in margin, (or ‘more on this jig, see page 26) ‘The time you spend iting the mor- tise and tenon joints will pay offinthe next step — gluing the side pieces up to create two “frames” Once this is done, you can start making the ‘grooves forthe front and beckpanels that will eonnect the two sides. A.groove near the front edge of ‘each frame holds a/"-thick plywood panel, see Fig. 6a. And a rabbet cut along the back edge of ezch frame will hold aplywood back, see Fig. 6 HINGE MORTSES. Althouzh the docr ‘will be one ofthe last parts added to the clock, it’s a lot easier 10 eut the prises for the door hinges at this stage, Defore the sides are sand: ‘wiched between the top and bottom, ‘To do this, [simply clampedone ofthe sites ina woodworking vise and used one of the hinges as a template for laying outthe mortises. Then T care. fully chiseled out each mortise. FRONT & BACK PANELS ‘The side frames are connected by two plywood panels (C), see draw- ing. Both panels are identical in size, Dut the front panel has several holes drilled in it to accommodate the hhand shaft and winding arbors for the clock movement. Laying out these holes is simply a ‘matter of centering the clock dial on the plywood panel, screwing it in place, and marking out the hole loc tions, see detal'a' at ight, Then with the dialremoved, drillthe holes slighi- ly oversize. (This allows for some adjustment when the movement is installed later on.) ‘To make the slot on the right side ofthe dal for the chime selector lever, I simply drilled a series of overiap- ping holes, see drawing, ASSEMBLY, To assemble these pieces, glue the front panel into the grooves ‘ut on the side frames. The back panel doesn't get ued tothe sides, but did set tin placejust to keep everything ‘square. A couple of band clamps will hold the pieces while the glue dries. No. 119 A The ends of the melded edges ore iered o allow the rails and stles to fit ogeher. i NOTE. Ct groove and robbet ES) termten thdines of le pomood ee Nore: attach Slicer ane tf euthcles Then remove “dato ae hots, ‘of morte should mate barrel of hingeSIDE VIEW Top & Base ‘The sides and front and back panels make up the “middle” of the clock. ‘This assembly is then sandwiched pene ie To? The tepaf the dcklookstike ieee beens ota using @ massive molding cutter. But its actually built up out of three sep- arate ayers —a wid top panel ae two-piece cap.And the profile is nade witha series ofrouter bits uta ive inalD. To start with, Imade cit t fi the top panel and base assembly, since they're attached tothe sides of the clock. Later, Iadded the cap. ‘The top panel (D) is justa piece ‘of 9thick stock with a%e" ogee routed on all four edges, see draw- ing at right and detail‘. The chal- lenge here isto routthe edges with- ‘out any chipout. And to help with his, its best to start by routing the ends ‘of the panel first. also used a router to create the rounded lip above the ogee. But instead of routing the workpiece, 1 ‘used a if-ia. core box bit to make a sanding block. Then Isimply 15 rounded over the lip with sandpa- per, see Figs.7 and 72. Once thatwas done, I screwed the top panel ta the sides ofthe clock, see drawingin mar- agin and detail et at right. DASE, Like the top panel, the base panel isalso apiece of thick stock. Butthis panel issupported by a frame ‘made up of fourpieces. Together, the frame and base panel create araised “platform? fr the clock Istarted by making the base frame. ‘Tnebase front/back (E) and base sides (F) are cut froma single long Diank. The blank is sipped to width ‘and then one edge is rounded over, eavinga As’ shoulder, see detall'c” Fete. nee De SB ‘Next, the individual base pieces are mitered to length and glued up in a frame, see drawing. ‘The base panel (G) isjust "= thik les esto. Took te panel into the base frame, a rabbet is cut on all four bottom edges, see detail ‘d.’ ee ig eee ose ‘Then a li" cove is routed on the top edge, see Figs. 8 and 8a. After the panel is glued to the frame, the base FUER PANS. Before moving on to making thetop caps Igluedin ¢cou- pleoffiller panels (H) to the insideof the clock at the top and bottom, see drawing, These panels are sim piy two pieces of" plywood cut to fitthe inside of theclock. They serve fas stops for the backpanel. ‘@, All that remains to complete the case ofthe clocks toad the cap to the top of the clock. The cap is made up oftvo "thick pieces, each witha different profile routed on the ‘edge. Theprofeslock abit complex, but actually I used only a couple of different bits on each cap piece. I made the lower cap (D) first. ‘The profile on this piece consists of a! roundover above a shallow cove. To make this profile, cut the roundover firs, see Figs. 9 and £2. Tnorder todo this, youTThave to stand the workpiece on edie on the router table. In order to provide alittie more ‘support and to prevent the workpiece from titing, I used the fence on my router table — even though the rouuidover bit has abeariag, After cutting the roundover, Trout: ed the cove using a1" core box bit, see Figs. 10 and 10a, This time you can place the workpiece down fat, Bat you'll stil need to use the fence as abearing surface. PER ce. The steps for rowing the profileon the upper cap (J) arcsim- ilar, but the router bits are different sizes. Firs, 2°’ cove isrouted along all the edges, see Figs. Il and lla, ‘Then a 1" roundover is routed on the topedze, again holding the worke piece on edge, see Figs. 12-and 12a. “The overall thickness ofthe top of the clocks nearly 2/4" Conger than most drill bits), Because of this, 1 ‘decided to drillthe holes forthe han dle ofthe clock before giuingthe cap inplace. I simply drilled a pair ofhokes inthe upper cap and then transferred ‘NOTE: oril centered sco, ‘holes ncap sndtop is ‘panel, then use reseed ts rom Rinaie talon pcos the hole locations to the lower cap and then to the top ofthe cock, see drawing above, assimny. Assembling the caps is simply amatter of gluing them to the topofthe clock, centering them from side-to-side and fronite-back. But there's acouple of tricks to achieving a good rest. Before starting to glue the pieces togethes, stack them up and check the ft I'you can see gaps around the edges, the pieces aren't flat. To flatten them out, I placed a sheet of sandbaper on top of my table ‘saw and lightly sanded both sides of each cap (ust like you would lap the sole of a hand plane). ‘When it came time to glue the pieces together [used some small brads to helppreventthe pisces from slipping under the pressure of the clamps Just drive a few brads par- tially into the top ofthe oppancland the lower cap Then snipofthe heads so that bout "ofeach brad remains, see drawing above. a. ‘SIDE VIEW be 54 —-Door & Hardware Atthis point, the case of the clock is finished —allthat lefts tobuild the door and add the glass, hardware, and lock movement. ‘Theeonstructonofthe dooris sine ilar to the construction ofthe skles ofthe clock. The door rails (KK) and stiles (L) all have a molded profile routed on the inside edge. And the rails are mortised into the stiles. But there are a couple of differences. For one thing, the melded prafile is slightly different. Instead of a roundover, I routed an ogee on the edge ofeach door piece after cutting them to width, seedetal‘a" ‘Then after cutting the rabbet for the glass, the door pieces can be cut to length, see drawing. Shop Note: [ sized the door pieces to fit the open- ing of the clock exactly. Later, after the oor is assembled, the top and Dpottom edges canbe trimmedto cre ate a Ya!" desrance gap. ‘The cher difference isin the mor tise and tenon joints. Because the door will be subjected to more twist ing and racking than the sides of the clock, Imade the tenonsa bit longer, see detail’3’ Otherwise, the mortise and tenon joints are made in the same ‘manacr. And ike the als and sles ‘on the sides, you'lhevetomiterthe molded edges on the door pieces. ‘When the joinery is finished, the door can be glued up. (Make sure to check the door for square when clamping it together.) GUSSSTORS. While the hue is drying, yyoucan make the glass stop (M) for the glass panelsin the door and sides of the clock. This stop is x" wide ‘and %! thick. After the pieces are cent to length, they are simply nailed in place behind the glass, see Figs. 13 and 14, But since the pieces are ‘NOTE: Door Pasar sles re at rom hice stock so small and there isnt: much room to work inside the lock, Ipre-drilled holes in the glass stop for the brads. ‘WANGING THE DOOR. With the glassin place, you're just about ready to ang the door. But there are a couple of things to take care of first. To start ‘ith, you'll need to trim the top and,bottom of the door to create a slight Go") gap between the door and the Hee of the clock, ue Second, you!lincedto drillacouple of countersunk screwholes for the doorknoband the strike plate ofthe catch, see Fig. 13b on the opposite page. Once this is done, you can y* x1" ‘mount the hinges on the door and %”9e the side ofthe lock and then install the rest ofthe hardware — the door ‘knob, magnetic catch and handle, ISTALUNG THE MOVEREM. Installing the ‘lock movementisa matter ofscrew- Ing the dial to one side of the front paneland themovementtothe other side, see drawing. When positioning the movement, just check to see that the handshati and windingarborsare centered in the dialholes, With the movement in place, you ean set the chime rods inside the lock to determine their position. In order to raise the chime rods just dilledacouple ofcountersunk serew —_BkakThe back of the clock also gets below the evel ofthe hammers, thai holeson the underside of the block for some hardware, First, a small, “mini tomakea chime rod supportblock the mounting screws. Withthe chime _ knob is arlded to the back to make it (N). My blocs wasjust apiece of}4'- rods screwed to the block, I then easier to take on and off, see draw- thick stockcut to match thesize ofthe _ screwed the block to the bottom of ing. Then. fourbrass turnbuttons are chime rod base Tightly chamfere| the clock case from underneath the _aléedto the sides ofthe clock to hold the top edges of the block and thea clock, see drawing in margin, the back panel in place. IW Cl Vara Ut maka ¢ Ilyoutrepaming onusingaquartz And since there's not much to forthe “chimes” And in order to ‘movement inthis clock, there are look at with a quartz movement, alow the soundremthe peakerto couple otthingsyoustould now the glass panelsonthesides tthe “escape” dill anumberofsmall before you start building. clock can be replaced with ¥/"“thick _ (/4"-dia.) holesin the back panel of Foronething, since quartz move- plywood panels. These are simply the clock. Then I mounted the ‘ments don’t need winding, you'll glued into the openings. speaker to the back panel using the only need tomake one bole the SPEAKER The quartz movement _serewsard retzining ring suplied front panel (forthe hand chait). that Iused has a separate speaker with the movement, ‘Woodamith Pr onoecraw CROSS SECTION 10“ BENDING PROJECT FIREWOOD CARRIER Light and strong, this carrier is a handy project for a cold winter evening. And you'll be surprised at how easy it is to bend the wood “ribs.” A -aboy, stepping outside ona wine ter evening waslike sterping into a different world, The air was crisp, the stars clear, and T almost didn’t mind having to hug e small cardboard box fill of firewood into the house. Ofcourse, it wasn't realy achore, We used ourfireplace more to make pop- corn than for warmth, Tmstill the one that cartiesin the firewood. But! recently tradedin my box for this firewood carrier. With 2 box, there's always at least one log that’s aninch or so too long. Sowhen sketching ideas for this car rier, Iwanted an open desiga. But more important, it had to be light enough to be caried ezsily and strong enough to bold afew good-sized logs. ‘The solution to all these concerns ‘was bent lamination. With bent lam- ination, a bunch of thin strips are ‘glued together around a curved form. ‘What this means is that the grain in the strips bendstoo, which produces avery strongassembly. So where the ‘cardboard had to be replaced fre- ‘quently, £m sure this carrier wll last ‘generation or two. BENT LAMINATION. Bending thin trips isa'tdifficalt. Is certainly not some- thing reserved forthe “master crafts man.” The first thing you need is a ‘bending form you can make yourscif Thisis easy 1 make, see the step-- step instructions on page 17. Besides that, all you need is a table saw for ripping thin strips and some clamps. Woodsmith ‘(Check out the article on bent lami- nation that starts on page 18.) RIPPING THIN STRIPS. With the ben ing form made, the next step isto rip thethin strips that make up the ribs (A), see Fig: 1. Cused ash) [started with a piece of 4/4 (“four-quarter”) stock that was 48" long. 4/4 stock is actually “Ae tick, and [usuallyplane ittoan even’, But his time, I wait cd unil ater the strips were glued together before planingit down. (You canstart with S'thicksstock — your ribs will just end upa little thinner) ‘The bends in the ribs of this carr. et are pretty tight, so the strips are ripped 'As" thick, see Fig. 1a. And you'll need avout twelve of these stripsio create each -thick ib, see No. 119Fig.tb. (The exact number you'l end ‘up needing will depend on the thick: ness of your strip Safety Note: Ripping thin strips on the table sawisa common procedure, but there's also 2 good chance for Kickback. So to avoid this, Iused a spedalauxilary ence and push block, see Fig. 1 and page 26, ‘SOAKSTHIPS. Ben at 4" thick, Iwas afraid the strips would breakcasthey ‘were bent around the form. So to ‘make the wood more pliable (and to ‘make it easier to muscle the strips against the form), I soaked them in water for an hour or so. Of course, the strips were oo longo ft in asink, but the bathtub worked well. RE-BENDINS, With the wood more pliable, I clamped the strip into the form — without applying any glue. This “pre-bending” sirciches the Wood fibers so they'IIbendlater with- ‘out breaking. And italso allows you to see just how to apply the clamps (and in what order) so all the lami- nations are pulled tight. ‘When clamping, I started at the center of the form and worked my way out. (This “ary” assembyy is good prac- tice for when it’s time to gue thelaminations together, see photo) ‘GLUE STRIPS. After the wood dried, 1 took the pieces out of the form and then glued them together. Iused polyurethane glue and ran a small bead on one side ofeach piece, refer to the article on page 18, Gluing up the pieces is much easier with the ‘wood pre-bent, butits stlla bit messy. After the glue had dried, I removed theassemblyfrom the form. (Letitset overnight or longer,ifpossible.) Then I giued the second rib. Note: While working on the second rib, clamp spacer in the firs ib to help Keep its shape, see photo below. (The lani- tations tend to straighten outa litle as the ghuedries) With both ribs givedup, the excess slue can be scraped off and the edges A To remavlany gobs, the clanps are oriented dieay across the laminations. & ‘rimmed fish. Tohold theassembly during this process, Iputthe rib back into the form and screwed the oater forms in place. Then Iscranedofithe stiueand planed the edges flush with block plane see Fig. 2. ‘There'sone lastthingtodobefore ‘removing therib from the form, mats the ends of the rib from the cut off lines on the form, see Fig. 2a Then you can cut off the waste on the ends ‘with a hand saw or band sew. ‘A Tohelp the lamination keep iss shape, Iclamped a spacer Z block into the assembly.Assembly When the ribs have been cleaned up and their ends have been trimmed to final length, you're just about done. All tua’ tett to do is add thehandles, feet and slats, see drawing atright. ‘HANDLES & FEET. The nicething about the handles (B) and feet (C)is that they're identical. Both are cut from ‘Wiithick stock toa finished size (1/" x BY), see Fig. 3 ‘The handles and fect hold the ribs parallel, see drawing at right. To do ‘his Ieutanotchonthe ends ofeach, see Figs. 3 and 3a. The height and width of these notches will depend on the final height and width of the ribs. (Mine were 34" x $A". but it's a good idea to sneak upon the fit) After the notches on the ends have been cut, the next thing to do is eut gentle curve on each handle and foot plece, see Fig. 3 Lay out the curve on the edge opposite the rabbets. ‘Then cut out the curve with a sabre saw or band sawand sand itsmooth, ‘To complete the handles and feet, T routed a 44" roundover along their edges, see Fig. 3b. To dothis, used a" round over bit in the router table, and I backed up the cuts onthe ends with a push block to prevent chipout. Note: Routalltheedges ofthe handles and feet except the edges where the notches have been cut, see Fig. 3b. Now the handles and feet can be glued and screwed to the ribs. The ‘handles willbe uch with the ends of the ribs, cee detal'a' above. The fect are set in 31, see detail b? (Use a ‘square to make this easy to measure) Even though the handles and feet are in place, there's still one more thing todo. Theendsof theribs need tobe sanded to match the roundover on the handles, see detail ‘2' above. nore: ‘tach end and Center sat frst SIAT, With the handles and feet attached, the elats (D) along the bot tomand sides can beadded, see draw- ing above. [first cut these "hick plecesto size (LYf'x14'A"), see Figs. 4 and 4a. Then I rounded over the edges around the top face of each, see Fig. 4b. Now the slats are realy to be screwed to the ribs. ‘WaMDLE /E00T —“cutcure and <2" \damocth 144 NOTE: Sat, = Qrerang ibs Sem each end Dail countersurk "shank hole 16 WoodsmithRIB FORMS ge Before workingontheribsofthefire CUT FORMS To SHAPE. [ ‘wood carrier you need tobuildthe eu out the forms with « forms for bending the thin strips. sabresaw, staingtothe ‘These bending formsare made wp of waste side of the layout three parts: the curved inner and lines. Then Iearried the ‘outer forms will sandwich the thin forms over to the drill tips, and arectangular base sup- press and used a drum ports these pieces, see drawing at sander to sand the curved edges tel right Note: Formoreonmakingand smooth. This procediure is easy, but fom ee using bending forms, see thearticle do takecare.The better the inner and ‘beginning on page 18. outer forms match your layout, the Finally, (MOF BLANK. The first thing to do is betteryoulllbeableto camp thelam- cut the outer make the Inner and outer forms, _inatons together later. form into three ‘These are cut from asingle biank of Cutting the curves isnt the only pieces, see Fig. 2, This way, you will “Weshick MDF (5/4'x23}/, seeFig. work to do on these forms. Lalso he able to work from the center out. 1. laid out both forms on this blank drilled a numberof holesto hold the ADD BASE. Now the base.can be cut witha “channel” between them. This heads oftheclamps curingassembiy, to finished size — 1746" x 24”. see ‘Sf-vide channel is cut out to make sve Fig. 2. Plus, !eut several angles drawing above. glued theinnerform room for the A" wide stripe. This way, andnotches along the outside edges to the base. Then { “finished” the the inner and outer forms will sand- of the forms. These allowed me to formswith e heavy coat ofwax so the ‘wich the sips perfectlyand prevent direct theclampsso thepressure was wood strips would be glued into ‘ary gaps in the laminations. rectly across the thin sips. the forms permanently. A Ribs (24) Wex ta - 48 © Feet 2), 4x18 - 138 B Handles @2) Wx Vh- 13h D Slats (11) Yexth- 14% + (8) #8 114" Fh Woodscrews, No. 119 ‘Woodsmith wvWOODWORKING TECHNIQUE BENT LAMINATION hhenever I show someone a project that involves bending wood, I usually get the same response: “It looks great, but I don’t think P'¢ have the timetto tackle it” Somehow, ing wood looks time-consuming and a Dit difficuk. Butlooks here are deceiving — especially with the bent lamination used to buildthe firewood carrier and coat rackin this {scue. In fact, these projects would be ‘week: end projects except that you have to give the glue achance to dry. ‘The process we used to build the firewood carrier and coat rack is one of the casiest ‘ways o bend wood. To putit simply, apiece Jsripped into thin strips and then glued back together as the strips are bent around 2 curved form. Thin strips are very flexible so ‘you can bend tight curves with them, and the glue “locks” the bend in the laminations. Why goto all this work? Why not simply. ext out each curved piece froma single blank. like you could with the hooks on the coat rack?’The problem isthat somewherealong the curve the grain wil runacross the hook, and this point will be weak, see photo below. ‘By laminating each hook fromseveral pieces, the grain essentially “wraps” around the ccurve, creating a much stronger piece. Besidesbeing strong, [alsa ike bent lam Bending wood with thin strips creates graceful curves that are surprisingly strong. And the process takes less time than you might expect. ination because it doesn't require any spe- ‘ial tools. The thin stripscan be ripped onthe ‘ablesaw. And the bending forms can be built ‘quickly, using plywood or MDF. Allyou need are a dozen or so clamps and some glue. (Quite abit of glue, actually) (MAKING THE FORMS ‘The first thing to do with any bending pro- jectis to build the forms They distibutethe ‘clamping pressure along the strips so you don'tend up with any gaps. Besically, abendl ing form is made up of three picces: « bese, an inner form, andone or more outer forms, see the photo atthe top ofthe next page. The inner form isattached to the base. Then the ‘outer forms are used to camp the wood strips around the inner form. ‘SHEET GOODS. All three pieces can be made from either plywood or MDF. For the pro- jects in ths issue, each form was buiit with less than aquarter sheet of /'thick MDF. (kt ‘was a litte less expensive than plywood.) Note: Iryou choose a low-grade plywood, ‘watch cut for large voids, They can weaken the form or create rough eiges. ‘You want the formstobeapproximately as thick asthe wood strips youre going tobend. ‘Thisway, the clamping pressure is distributed ‘A The hook om the left was cut cut ofa single board. Ic broke where the Woodsmith ‘gain ran across the hook. The right hook, made with a number of thin strips, is much stronger — the grain “bends” around the curves. No. 119exenly across the thickness of the stock, and you're lesslikely toend up ‘with gaps on the outside edges. Bat for the projects in this issue, any forms were slightly shorter CAs!) than the thickness ofthe strips. This ‘wasnt a problem, but fyou're using thicker stock, you can build up the forms by gluing two pieces of MDF together before cuting them to shape. LATING OUTTHE FORMS, When creat- ing the inner and outer forms, the _goalis to geta itthat’s tight andcon- sistent along the entire length of the strips. If the forms don’t fit well, there's. good chance you'll end up with small gepsin your laminations, Sotomekesure theinner and outer forms match, layout both ofthem on the same blank. And when doingthis, ‘youl ned to allow forthe thin srips ‘that will be sanéwiched between the forms, see Fig. 1 (For the log cari there was" between the inner and Outer forms. For the cot rack,!#".) ALLOWING FOR CANS. With the inside ‘curves laid out, you also have to fig- ure out how to clamp the inner ané outer forms together For the heads of the clamps (usu: ally on the inner forms), 1 drill a setiesof files parallel tothe curved edge after the forms are cutout, see Insteac Fig. 2, (Gze the holes large enough I drill them ‘tohold the head ofyour clamps) about a" from the ‘Then on both forms, you'll proba- curved edge. And don’t blyhaveo do someworkonthe out- space them too close together side edges too. The clamps should which could weaken the form apply pressure straight across the _ATIACHING FORMS TO BASE. With the AA bonding strips.as muchaspossible, see Fig.2. forms cut to shapeand the hls for form i singly ‘Thismeanslaying outanglesand ce the camps drilled, attach the inner bese (A) with ‘ing shoulders on the ormsnear the form to the base. The tase is Sized on inner jorm (B) areas where the strips bend tosupport both the inner and outer ged tit, and With the layout ofthe forms com- forms when the strips are clamped an outer form (C) plete, they can becut outwith asabre inplace, Itshould be alittle oversize that sanduiches saw (or band saw),see Fig. 1 Stayon —butnottoomich, Otherwise, youll the wood againse thewastesideofthelayoutline.Then find yourself serapingyourkmickles the inner form. sand the edges smooth with a drum asthe clamps are being tightened. sanderinthe drillpress Ialsocutthe After the base is cut to size, the ‘cuter form into separate pieces soit's inner form can be glued to it, Note: ceasierto work with, ‘The coat rack formis screwed to the Finally,Lcrillthe holesfortheclamp base —not glued, see page 29. heads.(Myclamps required 14"-dia, GLUE BARWIE. The forms arent com holes) I don't bother to ay them out. plete quite yet: You're going to need a harrier between the forms and the strips so they’re not glued together permanently. To do this, Lused wae to"finish” my forms, see photobdow. ‘Then when the sirips were glued together, Iwas able to carefully pry them out of the form. Note: For a more effective barrier and a longer lasting form, you can apoly a coat or two of polyurethane or varnish and then a coat of wax. Keep the wax handy. After cach use, you'll need to serape away the excess glue and apply another coat ofwax t the forms, ‘A To prevent gluing the strips wo the fom, I brushed om heavy coat of wer. (Teas softened with terpensine Note: Do nocheat the wax — it's flammable.) No, 119 Woodsmith 1920 Making the Laminations Though you haven't technically started working on the project yet, don'tworrs. From here on out things progress pretty quickly and you'l be ‘wrapping glucdup strips around the ‘ending form in no time. RIPPING THE STRIPS ‘With the forms bul, you're ready to rip the thin strips, see Step 1. Just about any hardwood can be used — 4 as long as the grain is reasonably a straight and there are no knots. ‘Whats more important isthe thick nessof the strips. Ilike to work with as few strips as possible. $o 1 try to keepthemasthickasI can, Butwith first, see Step 2. Thisisa lot ike dry Sol didn’t have to le the wood com- tighter curves, you'll need thinner assembling « project—only the wood _ pletely dry before gluingit up. strips (and more of them). is wet, which allowsiits fibers to _ Note: Regardless of what type of TEST STRIP. I start by cutting a test sireich.To do this I soaked thestrips glue youchoose, be sure to have pln: strip. Ifit breaks when bent around in the bathtub for zn hour or two. yon hand. You don't want torun out the form, Icutathinner stip andtry Then Iclamped the trips around the in the middle of an assombly. again. Andremember, Yo" can make formandletthem dry overnight. GLUING THE STRIPS. Gluing up the big difference. Note:Idon' rip strips Shop Tip: Before taking the pre stipsis.a rather messy affair — all any thinner than Ae". If Ye’ strips bent strips out ofthe form, Imarked _ thosestrips require a otof glue that break, I"prebend’ them, seebelow. the centerline oftheformacross the squeezes outall over. Istarted by lay- RIPPING THINSTRIPS SAFELY. Whenrip- rips. Then when gluing them togeth- _ ingone piece down and then running ping thin strips, having therrp fence ex, youl be able to get thematigned a bead of ghie onit, see Step 3. Then close tothe blade isan opportunity for _uickly inthe i. set the next piece on top and run Kickback. So to avoid this, Ise a POLYURETHANEGIUE.Whilepre-bend- another bead. Continue until the ast shopmade auxiliary enceand push ingallows for ighter curves, you do strips set ontop (but dont ue block. And as an added prevention, end upwith wet wood. This ean bea one). Now you can set the assembly use a table insert with a splitter in problem with water-based ghics like into the form and apply the clamps. beck. Geepage27 for more onthis) yellowand white glue unless you let Whenrapplying the Camps, the goal the wood.dry completely. Howerer if Js to remove any gaps between the PRE-BENDING & GLUING yous apoiywrethane glue, theextra strips. With the firewood carrier, I Withthe tight curves onthe firewood moistureisnt aproblem—itsaben- worked from te center out, see Steps ‘carrier and coat hooks even As-thick eft That's because polyurethane glue _ 4 and 5. But for the coat hooks, I strips would crack as [pulled them reacts ith themoisturein the wood. worked from one end to the other. around the form—the bend wasjust I fact, the instructions tellyeu to wet You'll soon see that as the strips too tight. So ‘prebent” the wood the wood before applying the glue. are being clamped, they tend to side 2 = Whe With the forms built the thin stps for bending can be ripped. Their thick ‘ness vill depend on the curve— the tighter the curve, the thinner the tps. To do this safely, lused an auxiliary fence anda stop block, see page 27. Next, Isoaked a set ofthe strips in water to make them plabl. To dlue the stro together start by running a bead aiong one Then to “pre-bend” the strips, I damped them in the form. side of one strip, Set anotherstro on top ard repeat. When the Atersetting overnight, mark the centerline and remove the strips. _[aststripis set on top, place the assembly nto the form. Woodsmith No. 119alte. Sos you're adding clamps. it’s a good idea to use a hammer and a ‘scrap block to pound them flush, see drawing in margin. (The closer they areto being flush now, the ss clean up work there will be later.) LET GLUE ORY. When the clamps are all in place, you can step back and take a deep breath, The important thing now isto let the glue dr. It’s hard ta say exactly how long you should wait before removingthe clamps. But since there's only one edge exposed, itshould be quite «bit longer than you usually let glue dry. ‘With the polyurethane glue, Iletthe assembly stay clamped up at least. ight hours (overnight if possible). After the ghiedries, gently prythe assembly oatof the form, Then before gluing up the next assembiy, scrape offthe glue and wax the form again. Shop Tip: When removing the assembly, the curves will tend to straighten out just slightly. So o help it keep the right shape, I clamped a ‘spacer into the assembly until I was ready to clean up the edges, see the photo atthe botiom of page 15, CLEANING UP THE LAMINATIONS At this point, the assembly isn't a pry sight, There's dried giue caked everywhere, and the edges of the stripsarentt even. So the jobnow isto clean up the assembly. The trick was figuring out how to hold the assembly secure while T ‘squared the edges. I couldn't hold it by hand very easily, and T-couldn't clamp ittothe bench without having toreposition the clamps, To clamp up the ribs for the frewood carer (page 14) | started at the center of the forms and worked my way out. As you're tightening the clamps, make sure the strips stay as lush as possible, see margin. ‘After the rb is camped at the center work on the outer forms on the sides. Startby clamping across the two bends on each side. Thon add the ‘The solution ended up being pret- ty simple. I set the assembly back in the form. Then [secured itby screw- ing the outer forms to the base, see ‘Step6. This really held theassembiy ‘secure and left the entire edge free. (Note: Ifyour assembly is flush with the inner and outer forms, you can setitonthin strips to saise it sight) The next step is to scrape off the ser clamps, adjusting them until all he laminations are tight with ro gaps. ‘excess gue, luseda paint scraper) Then to even oat the edges, | used a shagp block plane, see Step 7 ‘When one edge was even, Ifiped the assembly over and repeated the procedure onthe cpposte edge. Then Took a final step to make sure the edges were fat. 1 placed adhesive backed sandpaper on my table saw ‘and sanded the assembly. While the serpe are being clamped, they endo slide, so use a haramer ‘and serap block wo pound them flush Cn Se eee ’After the excess glue had bean removed with a paint scraper, snd the edges made flish, Te hold each assembly while doing thi, Iplaced itn the form and screwed the outer fers to the base. No. 119 Woodsmith J evened out the edges of the assombly, using a sharp block. plane. When smooth, lp the assembly over and repest this proces. aBENDING PROJECT LAMINATED COAT RACK Start with a shop-made form and some thin strips. Then add glue and clamps. The result is a simple project that's a great place to hang your hat. csitant about bending wood? Then thisis the perfect projec to start with, The form is easy to build; the hooks are small and quite manageable, and you don't need a wall all of clamps — sixis ait takes, Pus, there's cven astepby-step article that will walkyou through the bending process, see page 18. FORN TOR BENDING HOOKS. Before beginning, ‘york onthe hooks, you need to build the form ‘or bending the hooks, In a way, the form is like a jig —its not part ofthe projectitsel, bit i's sill essential to getting the project {ve deceribed how to build iton page 25) ‘WIN sTas, After hed completed the form. I Degani work oa making the thin trips that are Bent around the form. The safest way trip hin strips isto set the fence so the strips fall waste side ofthe blade. Butthe problemis, Tyou have toresetthe fence with each pess and Br ‘being hassle, the stripsdon'tend up. / “-Acconsistent thickness either: | Insiead, Iripped the piece with the thin stp M betcenthe blade and the fence. This way, the nce could be left in one position. But I did o take some precautions to prevent kick First, to keep my hands avay from the Lsed a push block that rede on top of f auxiliary fence, see Fig. 1. Pus, Tused a jearance insert that had a builtinspltter Woodsmith: in the back. (For more on making the fence, push block and insert, see page 27) This spi ter reduces the chance of kickback by pre- venting the wood from pinching the blade. ‘When ripping the strip, { started with 24'- Jong pieces that had reativelysiraight gran, see Fig. 1. (Note: I used 4/4 ash — "0" actual thickness, see Fig. 1b. planed and sanded it ‘o after the strips were glued together) ‘Technically, to create each ¥2-thick hook, youllneed eight Yihick strips, see Fig 1b. But the actual number of strips you'll use depends onwhetheryourstripeareexacly Vs" or litlethicker or thinner. Just getas close t0 4 as.you can so the formssftas tight as pose sible and you don't end up with any gaps. RESEND ¢ GIUESTRPS, While { was determin- ing the thickness ofthe sips (refer tothe bend ingartice),evenat /As"thick my test piece still splits itwes bent around the form. So to make thestrips more pliable, [soaked them in water foranhouror so. Then damped them around thebending form (without glue), see Fig. 2. To do his, start with the shor: end ofthe hook, positioning the pieces ush with theend ofthe ‘outer form. (his gives you at east 3 of waste on each end just to be safe) Then when the shortend is sandviched between theouterand inner forms, add the other outer form. No 119etthe stips dry overnight Then [ran a small bead of polyurethane _tlue on each and clamped them back into the form. (Note: Ifyou plan on usingyellow or white glue, its best to let the hooks dry out longer, since the moisture in the wood will slow down the curing process.) Let the glue dry at least overnight before removing the assembly — the lnger the better since the pieces are exposed on only one edge. ‘Once the giue hes dried, you can remove it from the form and set it aside uni theotherhooks have been alued up. (You'll need five in all) Be sure to waxtthe form atte each hook (A) is ghted up so the next one isn't fglued permanenily into the form, ‘LEANING THE HOOKS. By now, vou know that laminating wood is messy business. And at this point it’ time to clean up all the hooks. The first thing did wasto mark the endsofthe hhooks from the form andlcue them to final length with a hand saw, Next, I put the hook back in the form and screwed the outer form to the base to hold it tight. This way. I didnt haveto hold the piece steady as Ivvorked on its edge. (Ifthe edge of the hook isntt above the surface of the form, simply shim it with small blocks until itis) I started by scraping away most of ‘the glue with a paint scraper, Then because the laminations weren't per- fectly flash, [planed the edges with asharp block plane. | cleaned up one edge ofeach hook. ‘Then I fipned the hooks over to work on the opposite edge, Bt since the ‘hooks aren't symmetrical Thad to flip ‘the inner and outer forms as well. (Thisiswhy theinnerformis simply serewed to the base, see page 25) ‘Keepin mind that a thispointthe assemblies are fat but they may not bean identical thickness. Sp to avoid having to cut each dado in the back strip a different size, I made all the hooks the same thickness. Todo this, measured cach hook {ofind the one that was the thinnest. ‘Then I cuta dado in a serap piece to hold this hook. Now getting the oth- ers to fitwas ust a matter of sanding orplaning them until they fitthe dado. Tocreate teor-aroo nein sal locke ‘re added after ooks are laminated SHAPE ENDS. AL this point, the hooks are about complete. Allthars lttis 0 add the tear-shaped curves at the ends. (These don’ serve any practi- cal purpose — they're decorative.) To aild the curves, it's easiest to start with square blocs. [glued small YW l-thidk blocks to the outside fuces of each, sce Fig. 3. Then I drew en areat each end, see Figs. 3a and 3b. ‘Most ofthe waste can be trimmed off with a band saw or hand saw. Then youtcan sand tothe line with a drum ‘sander, see photo below. TARST Cut hook ende {final length Woodsmith, & A To create the tear-drop ends om the hooks, [added small Hocks ‘and laid oue the curves. Then they'te cut and sanded smooth. si for hooks 2Rack Assembly aiex se ‘Withallfive hooks complete, the hard ‘Go or) works done. Allthats lets tote” sexarm © them together. Ididthis with twosim = "°°@S"™—/ ple backing strips, see drawing. OVIRSZE BLANK. I started by cutting single Yithick oversize blank. This ‘lank: can be cutto inal length (20), but Ileft it wide enough so both 7A" Wide back stips could berigped ftom it left my blank 2¥2"wide.) UT DADOKS. The first ting todo to theblankfor thebackstrpsiseutthe yore: Yit-deep dadoesthat hold thehooks, Seth backstop. aFlathead see Fig.4. The width ofthe dadoesis _ovessize blank ae determined by the thickness of the hhooks. And to keep the spacing con- sistent, [added an auniliary fence t0 the miter gauge and useda stop block toposition the blank, fipping the piece between passes, sce Fig. 4 ROUND OVER EDGES. With the cadoes cut, the next thing to do is rout a roundover on the ends af the strips Tused ai/' roundover bitto do this, 2 Fig. Sa And to prevent chipout, I backed up the cut with a push block. Now, die two back strips (B) can beripped to final waith (s") fromthe blank, see Figs. 5 and 5b. ATTACH HOOKS, Here’s where things really come together. Each ofthe five hooks is glued and screwed to the strips. Of course, it tookme a while tofigure outhow to get thehooks to them apart so they lined up with the _the rac, the ideal situation would be line up evealy. But the solution turned _dadoes, see photo below left, Next,I_t0 screw intotwo wallstuds However, out to be right under my nose. clamped the two back strips togeth- its lkely thet youwan'tbe able 1 do First, I stood each of the hooks er with a few 44" spacers between this. Screwing into at least one wall against therip fence on my table saw, them. Each ofthe dadoes on the back siud would be acceptable, but wall using one of theback strips tospace strips got a small drop of glue. Then anchors would be a good idea too, Isetthe backstrips on the hocksand _Tleftmy screw heads exposed, but ‘screwed them together. ifyou prefer,you cancoverthemwith FINSH.To finish the hooks, Istained button phags. Simply drill $4" coun- them a golden amber color, Then I_terbores in the back strips But don't applied a few coats ofan oll finish. glue the plugs in place. You may want ANGING THE RACK. When hanging to move the coat rack later. ‘A Daring assembly, 1 aligned the hooks by buitng ther ‘aginst the ip fence on my table saw. The back strips are held parallel with spacers clamped between them, oy Woodsmith No 119CoAT RACK FORMS Like pouring concrete, the firs thing ‘you need to do when bending wood is build the forms. There are two forms here —an inner form that the pieces are bent around and an outer form that sandwiches the pieces, 2qe-THCKMOF. To make the form, all ‘you needs some scrap %thide MDP (or piywood) and a sabresaw or band sav. Usually, Imake the forms atleast as thick ae the strips that are being bent. But the coat rack hooks here are an exception. | used 24" MDF even though the strips startott Ae. used 4/4 tock, which typically comes "a" thick) This extra Ve" cid not create a probe Jem (the laminations still ended up tight), andit saved mefromhaving to laminate two pieces of MDF together tobuild upthe forms. ‘To build the form, I started with a single piece of MDF cut 916x246, see Fig. 1. Then Ilaid out the curves for both the inner and outer forms. Because the final thickness of the strips will be 14", there's a 38" gap between these two layout ines that willbe cutaway as wsste, SHAPEFORNS, When cutting outthe Inner and outer forms, Istayedon the ‘waste ste of theline, Then I tookthe formsto the drum sander on my dri press and sanded them up tothe lines, Be as careful as you can here. The better the two forms sandwich the strips, theless chance there wil befor any gaps between the laminations. ‘Though the two formsare cut epart and sanded smooth, they both need. litle work yet.On the inner form 1 drilled 1/4"-diameter holes 1#' from the edge for clamps, see Fig. 2. On the outer form, the first thing todo is trim two of the outside cor- ners, see Fig. 2. These angled edges: allow the clamps to apply pressure. directly across the strips. Then with the comerseutthe outer frm canbe cut into two pieces —a shortone for the short end ofthe hook and a longer one forthe long end. This lets you work on one bend ata time. BAS, Al that’s left now isto make the base, see margin drawing above right ls cut to ical size end shape, and its corners are angled like the outer forms —butfora liferentree son. Ifthe base ticks out past the ater form co much, youl skin your aucls when ightening the clamps, Instead of gluing the inner form to the base, I screwed it in place. This allowed re to fp overwhen clean ing up the edges ofthe laminations, WAX FORMS. Now before you begin. bending with the forms, you need to mark the location ofthe ends ofthe hooks on the forms, see Fig, 2. And finaly, apply aheavy coat ofwax. This A To glue up each ofthe hooks for this coat rack, all you ‘way, your laminations won't be per- need are zight ‘ia"-thick sti, a simple shop-made manently glued to the forms. BY form, sixclamps — and plenty of gue. ‘tank ror nner and Ke No, 119 Woodsmith 25afore cutting the smomises on the clock stiles, oll ned to remove part of the bull in molding, Tips FROM Our SHor Trimming Molded Edges Both the side and door frames on the mantle clock feature mortise and tenon construction with bui molding, see page 6. Bu ‘beforeyou can cut the mor tises, part of the b ‘molding will have to be removed, see margin. T could've done this by making multiple passes ‘with a dado blade, but this ‘would've left score lines. Mitering Molded Edges Bven after you've cut the mortisesand tenons forthe mantle clock sides (and door), these pieces won't fit together. That's because the builtin mole ing along the inside edge needs to be mitered, see drawing below. ‘The secret to doing this simple, shopmade ig, see Fig. 1. It fits over the pieces and guides your chisel as youmnizerthe ends ofthe molding. ‘The jig is easy to make — there's just three parts, see Fig. la. First,a spacer isglued between twoguide ralls This forms a pocket So to get clean shoulder, Lused atenon jig, standing the pieces on end, see photo above. ‘The tenon jig used here consists oftwo face pieces and two erosspieces. for your pieces to fit into, “Then the gis mitered on one end. And about the only thing critical for thejig is that the spacer matches the thickness of the pieces you're trimming. ‘Touse the jg to miter the moked edges, simply set itover a frame piece and used MDF.) The cross- pieces are sized so the jig slides easily along the fence without any slop, see Fig. 1. (leutdatoes in the face pieces to make it easy to assemble the jig.) Then I added a vertical stop along the back edge to support the workpiece and keep it square to the table. Usually, when cutting tenons, I place the face of the workpiece against the face of the jig. But to cut away the builtin molding, you'll need to set the ou side edge of the piece against the face of the jg. And when setting the rip fence, it’s a good idea to sneak up on the cut so you doa'tleave any saw marks onthe workpiece. OM clamp it in place, see Fig. 1, Then secure the jig in your bench vise. Now you can pare the molding witha chisel. The ‘goals for the rails and stiles toittogethertight. Andis ‘good idea to sneale up on the cut so youdon'tend up with a gap, When rals end stiles feancre builtin. rmoldirg, they won't fic together ttl fier the molding has been mitered. No.119Ripping Thin Strips ‘When ripping single thi strip, I'l set the rip fen so the stipends upon the ‘waste side of the blade. But ‘when [needa bunchofthin strips, asl did with the fre: ‘wood carrier and coat rack, Tut the strips between the Fipfenceand the blade. To do this eafely, I use an insert with a splitter (sce box below) plus a simple auniliary fence and push block that keeps my hand outofthe way, see Fig. 1 ‘The trickis thatthe push block and fence are cut RE fi LS Carpet 6 Secures euxlary fepceto tovle Whea I sip thin strips, 1 like to use a shopmade table saw insert that has a splitier. It helps to keep the wood from binding on the back ofthe blade. (Mine is a zeco-clearance insert) To make the new insert, ‘youl needa blank thet match= ‘es the thickness of your old. insert. (Lused {A" MDE. Itwas, alitle thin, but later I shimmed it with tape until it was flush with the ton of the saw.) Next, tracethe outline ofthe original insert onto the blank and rough cut it 10 within Yio! of the pencil line, see Fig. 1. No. 119 from the same piece so they're the same width. And to more the piece through the blade, a small “heel” is glued to the edge ofthe block near the back, see Fig. 2. (The heel start- ed out as 1A"-thick hard board and is trimmed to final thickness after the fence is set.) Finally, 1 added a handle to make the lock easy to push. ‘To position the awiliary. fence, I first set the rip fence so there would be Yo! between the blade and Push trai iter see —bor below ye Fe J i ‘A This shore, wie ausiiey fence ard stop block combi- nation eps your hands away from blade while wpging thin strips from bot lng and shore Banks. the auxilary fence, see Fig. Ja ‘Then, I carpettaped the auxiliary fence face down tothe table, see Fig. L Toripthe strips, starthy feeding the stock by hand. ‘Then when you'renear the end of the piece, set the stop block in place and complete the cut. Gut from same piece as fence) Tottim the blanko thesame shape as the original insert, I first carpettaped them togeth- ex Then mounted afash trim bitin the router table and, with the bearing riding along the original insert, trimmed the new one to shape, see Fig. Ia To ip the blade slot in the new insert, carellly align the fexcewith theedgeot he orig- inal insert, see Fig. 2. Then rip the siot, turning off the saw when you're 3" from theend, ‘To make the spliter, rip a piecetothe exact thickness of the kerf, 1" high and 3" long, sce Fig. 3, Sand the end closest tothe blade toa point and glue > ‘original insert the splitter ino the ker ‘Woodsmith ar* COND) PROJECT How do you “spice” up a practical project like this rack? Just add a few hand-cut lap dovetails and some graceful curves. But sometimes, Im a bit hesitant to “experiment” on a project when Ive already invested a lot of time and money. a joint that you might not have had the opportunity to try desing it with some solid woodworking features. Take the joinery for example. Most spice racks I've seen are simply afew narrow strips of wood that have been stapled or glued together. But we used dado joints to support the shelves * notches and dovetails. This iesallthe elements of the spice ck together to create a strong frac, : SIDES a “This spice racks really justtwo sie pisces that are joined bythree shelves and to sets ofrals—one atthe font and ‘oneatthe back. Since most of thejoints are cuton the side iieces, I decided to make them first. THM TOOK The frst challenge in making the sides isin © getting the stock down othe correct thickness. Inorder to licep the spice rack irom becoming too heavy when loaded ‘up with spice jars, Tused 9thick sock for the sides and CUTTING DIAGRAM ce" 26° chery (75 Sa) A Sides (2) x De 10% B Shelves (3) YaxDe- 1% © Upper Back Rail(1) Ya 3%4- 12 D Lower Back Rail(1) Vax 2%4- 12 E Middle Bk. Rails(2) Yax 1-12 F Front Rails (3) Yax 1-12 + (3) Miniature Birch Shaker Pegs V/) ir 3* = 36" Cherry (25 5.) 5 8 6 = gr 6" = 30° Cherry (1.25 59.Ft) ® + (2) #8 x2” Fh Brass WoodscrewsY)tick stock for all the other pieces. You may not be able to find thin stockat yourlumberyard. Int, youll have to make your own out of 94'- thick stock. One way to do thisis with surface planer. But thisis abit waste- ful, So instead, [created the thin stock needed for this projectby resawing the boards, (For more om this tech- nique, see the article on page 34.) ‘After thicknessing the stock, you. ‘can cut the two sides (A) to width and length, Then you can start work ‘on the jolnery. First, you'll need to ‘cuta series of three dadoes on each sitle for the shelves, see Fig. 1. ‘There are two things to watch for when cutting dadoes. First, you want all the dadoes to be the same width, ‘The best way to ensure this sto use a! dado blade to cut the dadoes. Next, you want to make sure that the dadoes are positioned exactly the ‘same on each side piece so they will line up when the spice rackisassem- bled. To do this, used my rip fence as.a stop block, see Fig. 1. But don't ‘worry — since you aren't cutting all the way through the piece, thereisn't a danger oft kicking back. NOTCHES. Once the dadoes are ext, the next step isto make the notehes albng the back edge ofeachside piece for the back rails, see drawingabove. Imai thesenotches by makingmul- tiple passes with a dado blade, see Fig. 2. To set the heizht ofthe dado blade, make sometest cutsina scrap piace of woed. Then to position the notches, use the fence asa stop again, justle you did with the shelf dadoes, ‘And to make sure everything lines up at assembly time, I cut the notch- es in both sides at once, see Fig. 2. ‘The only joints left to make on the sides are the dovetail sockets for the ‘font rails. Butsince these havetobe ‘cut match the dovetails on the rails, waited to cut these. For now, you ‘an simply inish up the sides by lay- ‘ng out the curve at the top and bot- tom ofeach piece, see pattern atright. ‘This is simply a matter of drawing ‘the curves on the workpieces. Then ‘each curve can be cut on a band saw or sabre saw and sanded smooth with a drum sander.4 Lapdoveils on the front rail ofthe spice rack help ce che sides together. Shelves & Rails With the sides completed, you can begin making the pieces that tie everything together — the shelves ‘and the back and front rails. ‘sani. The first pisces to make are the shelves (B). The ony tricky thin about these is the thickness. They should be sized to ft nto the dadoes you cut earlier in the sides. (Imade ‘mine Yi" thick) Once you've got the stock forthe shelves down to the correct thick- ness, youcan cut each shelf tits final ‘width and length, see drawing aright. DBAcKRaLs. The next pievesto make ‘are the four back ralls. To do this, 1 started by making Y-thick blanks ‘or the upper back rail (O), lower back rail (D), and the two narrow middle back rails (E). Here agein, the important thing is that the rails fitintothe joint cut the side pieces. But this time, the thickness should maich the depih of the notches. ‘After cutting them to width and length, you can set aside the middle rails, ee drawing. But the upper and Jbwer ra sillned litle mare work, Usinga template a graceful curve is hhid out on each tiece, see Fig. 3 and pattern below. The important thing to remember when laying out these curves is that the endpoints of each curve should be Mush with te ends ofthe sides (A). To check this, [sim- ply placed the upper and lower back rails inthe notches cut in the sides and made a mark on each rail atthe topand bottom of each side piece. BACK RAIL CURVE PATTERN After laying out the curves, they can he cut and sanded smooth, just 2s ‘you did with theside pieces. Then to finish off the lower back rail, ay out and drill three %"ia. holes for the pegs that will be added later. FRONTRALS, With the backcrailscom- plete, all that remains are the three front rails (F). These rails are just three }j"-thick blanks cut to width Wordsmith andlength (1"x 12"). Once youhave the rails cut o size, vou can startmake ing the lap dovetail UP BOVETALS, One of the trickiest thingsabout making and fting dove- tail joints is getting the spacing of each row of pins” to line up with the spacing of each row of “tails.” Fortunately, you don't have to worry about spacing with this project. No. 119‘There's only one devetnilon the end of each rail. So each dovetail fis into its own “socket” cutin the edge ofthe side pieces, sce Fig. 4, Although you don'thave to worry about spacing, you still need to be concerned with the tof the dovetails —particularly if you're cutting them by hand. Since youll be individually Sitting each dovetail to its own sock: et, you need « way to keep the tails and sockets organized. I did this by lettering the ends ofall the rails and the location of the sockets before Starting to make any cuts, see Fig. 4. ‘When it came to cutting the joints [ started by laving cut and cutting al the tails first. see Fig. 4a ‘Then [ MO ee used the finished tails fo ly out the larder spice rock sockets on the edges of the sides. I sorige back as tapi cut away moat of the waste from the sockets with a saw and then trimmed the ends with achisel until the clamps, see drawing. These the dovetail ft snug. (For stepby- boards help to hold the back rails step instructions on making hanc- in place while the glue sets up. cut lap dovetails, see page 32) Sinceit' dffultto send orremove asstmaty, When all the dovetail any alue from the stice rack afer it joints are cut and fitted, you can dry dries, try to avoid alt of squeeze-out assemble the picces to see how well by using a sparing amount of glue I the entire spice reck fits together. _ghued the back rails in place first then When youtre satisfied with the fi, the shelves and finally the front rails the rack can be glued up. SHAKER FSS, Altha’s le to add to Because of al the pieces involved, complete the spice rack are the tluing up the spice rack can make miniature Shaker pegs Iran into a you feel like a juggler spinning small problem here. The only pees plates So its alot easier if vou work I could find in this size were made Dutt a procedure before you start out of birch. Soin order fr the pegs applying any glue. I started by lay. to match the rest of the rack, I ing out my clamps and placing a stained them with a cherry stain couple of support boards on top of Alter the stain had dried, [ glued Seepage 32 Label Ip dovetails Sockets No. 19 Woodsiaith them into the holes in the lower back rail. Then [wiped oon three coats of an oil finish. MOUNTING THE SPICE RACK. ‘There's notmuch fomounting the spice rack— it’s simply screwed to the wall through one of the back rails, see details’ and photo below. I positioned the screw holes so they ‘would be hidden by the spice bottles. (Located my holes 1" rom theinside face ofthe side pieces) One other thing. Since the spice rack is only 12" wide and most wall studsare placed 16? apart, i's good idea to use wall anchors. Or at least make sure that one ofthe mounting screws is driven into a stud. 6 A Using alee! t position the spice radk, secure ito the wall with « couple of bass woodserews. at2 JOINERY WBosnyrees LAP DOVETAILS Lap dovetail joints not only add strength to a project, they look great, too. And they’re not all that difficult to make once you know how. joints as good only for joining corners, ike on a drawer of a box. Buta (ap dovetails great forjoining aral tp the side or edge of a work piece. It provides a lot of mechani cal strength aad it looks nice. And because lap dovetails are often used alone (rather than in rows) they're a lot easier to make. In fact, even. ‘hough you can make lap doveiails on a router table (See box on opposite page), it’s often just as ‘Quick to cut them by hand. Tails Since the tilsare the most visible part of the joint, I start with them first and then cutthe second partof ‘the joint (the socket) to fit To lay out each joint, | establish the baseline, o bottom, of each tall first. In some instances, (lke the spice rack on page 28) the tal laps the entire edge (or width) of the socket piece. this i the ease, Isim- ply use the socket piece to lay out the baseline, asin Step ‘Next I mark te sles of the dove- tall,see Step 2, You dont really need toworryaboutthe exact angle ofthe Sides ofthe tal, usttryto createa tail thatis visually appealing, Butifyou're making more than one joint, make sure t lay ther all out consistently. ‘To make the cuts, like to use a finctoothed back saw (or a Jepanese dovetail saw). Carefully cut down along the lines, staying just to the waste side of each layout line, see Step 3. In addition to following the line, check to see that yon are hold- ing the saw perpendicularto the face Start by laying out the baseline of the tail, either by using the socket piece 25 @ guide or by mea suring down fom the end of the wil, Layout the sides of the tall with 2 straightedge or siding bevel gauge. The tall should be slighty rar- ower than the width of te stock With the werkpiece clamped in vise, usea fine-toothed saw to ‘utdown along the layout lines, stay ing to the waste side ofthe fines. Woodsmith Remove the waste with a sharp chisel. A guide board clamped along the baseline of the ta helos to support the chisel for square cuts No. 119‘ofthe workpiece as well ‘Afior making the cuts, the waste ‘can be cut offwith a saw or chopped ‘out witha chisel. The nice thing about using achiselisthat youcan clampa ‘scrap board along the baseline ofthe workpiece to serve 2s a guide, see ‘Step 4. Ths willhelp keep the shoul- ders ofthe tail aligned, SOCKETS Witha nicely-shapcd tain hand, you ‘can Sarton the socket The goal here Isto get close it without any gaps. To do this, its necessary to lay out ‘eachsocket to match a specific dove tail, see Step 5, And in order to keep the tailsand sockets organized, [like toletterthe piecesasI go along. With the outline ofthe tail scribed on the cocket pioce, transfer the lay ‘out lines down both sides of the workpiece. Thea mark the depth of the socketto match the thickness of the tail, see Step 6, The next step is to remove the ‘waste from the socket. Sart by mal- ing a cut at each end of the socket, again staying to the waste side ofthe layout lines, see Step 7. Then with a ‘coping saw, make acut from one end ofthe socket to the other, just above the bottom layout line, see Step 8. With most of the waste removed, the only thing left to do is trimupthe bottom and sides of the socket to fit the dovetail, see Sten 9. The tril here isto have a sharp chisel and asteady hhand, Jast remove the waste in thin slivers, testing theft of the tilas you -goalong, see Step 10, Rout Tails Using adoveralbit ‘block support the workpieces. No. 119 Lay Out Sockets. Using a tal ‘rout the tals in two passes. A asa template, lay out the sock- ‘miter gauge fence and stop ets. Tarsfer the lines dow the face ofthe workpiece (Use the tal tolay our the socket. An X-Acto knife makes a nice, sharp line and also severs the vrood fibers to ensure a clean shouider. Transfer the layout lines down both faces of the workpiece. Then mark the bottom of the socket to equal the thickness of the tall. ‘Using a fine-toothed savy, make A coping saw allows you to the end cuts, again staying to the quickly remove the bulk of the waste side of the layout lines. Cut all socket waste. if you prefer the waste the way down to the baseline. can ako be chiseled out. AY) INS ), cute SS a ~ f rete Tinwaste Socket ine K Wath te waste removed xe WE Check tht ofthe socket the ends and the botiom of the with the tail. the joints too socket fish with the lyout nes. A tight pare amayitlemateialfrom sep of wood helps guide the chisel, the socket only, not the til aU Baer Ch Woodsmith socket waste can be removed ‘on a routertable (wth a sraight i or ona table saw. Trim Ends. The ends of the socket can be trimmed off with a sharp chisel, Test the fit with one of the tals | A The wil shoul slide imo the sock- et with lohe pressure ard swithoue gapeWOODWORKING BIOs niel0)s RESAWING STOCK When itcame time to make the pice to support the workpieces. two passesatthis setting, fipping the rackon page28 Ineeded afewpieces _Resawing apiece with a table saw _ pisce over between passes. (Keep the of thin stock —%" and Wé'-thick. So may take one pass or several—itall same face against the rip fence.) T decided to resaw some %A!-thick depends on how widethe stock is If _Note-Ifyour piece is wider than 4" Stock to sizeusing my table saw. the piece is less than 2", Hke most of i'sagoodidea to make muiiple pass Rosewing is simply cutting thick — the pieces on the spice rack, you can in "increments. boardsinto thinner ones: When doing simply raise the blade slightly high: fence solend this on the table saw (in effect, rip er than the width of the stock and up with workpieces that are slightly ping on edge), it's bestto take a few resawthe piece in onepass. (Besure thicker than what | need. That's precautions. Toreducethe chanceof to use push stick.) because when resawingyou canend kickback, Iusean insert with aspit- _ However, with pieces wider than up with saw marks and burn marks ter, see Fig. 1andpage27.(Thespit- 2 you'llwantto take more than one thatwillncedto becleaned up, (also terkeepsthewood frompinchingthe pass, see Fi. 1. Thebackofthespice _startwith exiralons blanks and trim back of the blade.) Plus if you're rack is 314" wide. So [started with them to finished length later) resawing wide stock (A! to 6 the blade raised just over half the Fornarrowerpiecos, youcan dean gpod idcatoadd atallauxilaryfence width of the picce (1%4") and made up the faces by sanding them with a drum sander, see box below. eae ae Butyou can also clean upthe pieces ee eee ‘onthe table saw with a combination blade. (This time, usea featherboard P= cee ee re u tohold them against the fence.) Ss = tnatmore than 2) Raise the blade Yi" higher than the midpointof each iece so that the sesre a finish cuts can be completed in two fer for passes. And when making these cuts, push the piece through with steady pressure and without hesitating, This will help prevent burning andleavea smoother finish on the face, 1 BOCES RR a tty ‘Tocnsurethe drummakescontact _usingthis technique, maintain asteady ‘with the full width ofthe strip, thas eed rateand make light prses bout to be lowered slightly below the sur- the thickness ofa playing card). Also, facepfthetable.Thisrequiresan aux- ‘oprevent tie wood romburning, its iliary table with aholecutinit tha’s a good idea to periodically clean the sightlylarger thanthe sanding drum, drum with a rubber belt cleaner. ‘To sand eachpiece. feedit between the drum and the fenee from right to Jefe @gainst the drum’s rotation), see drawing at right. If you feed it irom After resawinga workpiess intwo,the left to right, the spinning dram will face of each needs be cleaned up. grab the piece, pull t through, and ‘To do this, you can use a drill press _stioct it off the table, And to be sate, with afenceand alargedrum sander, use a push stick, (A spinning érum seephoto above. (et thespeed tono can take off skin as well as wood.) more than 2,000 RPM's) For the smoothest results when Woodsmith No.119~ SOURCES Wooddsmith Project Supplies otter ing hardware kits and shop drawings for some ofthe projects featured in this issue. Similar supplies for these projects are also available at local woodworking stores orthe mailorder sources listed at right. MANTLE CLOCK [Before builling the mantle clock on page 6, youll need to decile whether you want to use a mechanical move ‘ment and build the clock with glass Whitington, ani St. Michael's, see left photo below. This movement strikes outthe hours on eight chime rods and also features a silencer. Besidesthe clock movement, we also used a 7/A"-dia. punched dial with raised numbers and spandrels (cor ; ners), and 3"ong serpentine hands. For a limited time, Woodsmnith Project Supplies 's offering a ‘mechanical movement and hardware kkitfor the mantle clock. Besides the ‘movement, dial and hands, this kit Note: No single source atrighthas all the hardware supplies we used to build this clock. This means you'll have to go to more than one source to find the identical hardware. ‘QUARTZ MOVEMENT. You can Iso ‘choose to build this clock using a quartz movement instead of a ‘mechanical one, see right photo. Woodsmith Project Supplies is also offering a kit that includes the ‘quartz movement as well as all the hardware. The movement includes side panels or a quartz movement also incudesallthe other hardware smal, separately wired speaker. 39 with plywood side panels. youtneel to bill the clock — exept the chimes (Westminster and “Bim- -NEGHANICAL MOVEMENT The clock we the glass forthe sides. ‘bam’) arereally authentic sounding. sedisaHernilekeywoundmechan- + MantleCockMechasical Movement. * Mantle Clock Quartz Movement & ical movementthatfeatures three dif & Hardware Kit Hardware Kit ferentchime melodies Wesminsier, 7119100 ‘$229.98 7119-20 $119.95 e SHOP DRAWINGS. We are currently offering the shop drawings we used tobuild the mantle cock. These are “biueprintstle” scale drawings prin ed on 18" x 20" sheets. * Mantie Clock Shop Drawings 719-250 $8.95 SPICE RACK Before building the spice rack, it's ‘200d idea to have your spice jars in Mechanical Clock. Thisktincues Quartz Clock. The quar: movement hane.The ony other items youl need 4 mechanical movement, repunched _in thi ki has a speaker for cutheric- are three 1%4"long (overall size) dial, nd chimerols. Ie also containsall sounding chimes. The kit als includes wooden pegs. For these items, see thehardware(notshown) expe glass. altho hardware needed except the glass. the mailorder sourees at ight see at Wood Nt wow on rue west ‘To order hardware kits or shop drawings from Wood- ‘smith Projeci Supplies, pease use ourTol Free order | © Over 100 Woedworking’Tips Online line,see below.itsopen Monday through Fiday.from | Project Plans You Can Download BAM 5 PM Central Time. Before calling, please | « Rorumsfor Woodworking, Toals& Classifieds tuveyour VISA, MasterCard, orDiscover Card ready. |» Catalog of Project Kits, Tools & Jigs you would like to mail in your order, cll the |__ © Power Tool Reviews untber below or moreiniormalion conccming ship: | © Liaks to Other Woodworking Sites ping changes as well as any applicable sales tax. 1 Woodsnith/Stop Notes Back Issue Index 1-800-444-7527 He ee ‘When ordering, please use Kay W119 http: //www.woodsmith.com Note: Price: subject to change ater December 1998. No.119 ‘Then select the “WoodNet” option from the men. ‘Woodsmith. R SOURCES Similar project supplies and hardivare may be ordered: the following companies Conatetine’s 100:223-8087 Pasoretiae cts, Wood pe locks 1900555:2548 Lee Valley 00871-8158 Woxt pas Spice rs S.LaKose, Ine. Merkin & Wooderst 300.225-1153 Partie gee, Woes pss Woodaith Store 1800895608 Patti ale, Rockler Weodvorking (Woodworkers Sire) 300279-4441 Marte oc hoivare, Paipreanegise, Woodworker's Sepp "500.645.0202 Pairthaneiae, Woespss 35Mantle Clock. The lass sides of this lack ellow 3 to xtc a fascinating npc ito the workings ofthe mechanical movement ini. Irene {for be clock start on page 6 A Spice Rack. This handy spice ack will give you a chance 0 ry cue an inerestng joint — lap dowtil. Plans stare on page 28. A Bent Lamination. Tobend hin ip, ll souneed i @shop-made form, gue, and afew camps. We'll walk you drcugh ths process in the article begin on page 18. 2 Fhewood Carier.Ligucgheand stung, be {free-flowing design ofthis carrier is created swith bent lamination. Detailed plans begin on paze 14.