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    Woodsmith Magazine - 114

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
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    64 views36 pages

    Woodsmith - 114

    Uploaded by

    rsotoqp
    Woodsmith Magazine - 114

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
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    Buffet Server * Magazine Rack * Holiday Centerpiece * Desk Set * Installing Soss Hinges Vol. 19/ No. 114 Woodsmith No. 114 December, 1997 Publisher Donald B.Pesshlee Terry]. Stohman Ton Gardin Vincent Ancora ‘Todd Lambirth David Kresling Disk Ver Ste ‘Mike Mitermcier Art Director ‘Sonor Mlssirators ‘CREATIVE RESOURCES Cree Dit TeKoas Pet DsioperKe Mane * SrPje Der Ke Wel» Pj Deier Te Wong ir-Kesn ave Sip Mom Sete Cats # Sie (Grtana:Sceon » Hveqaply De Lark Src * Soe Pogaper Gant BOOKS Baca Bor Dawgs Hicks Art Dior inkaNermie + Sexbr Gopi Degner ChrisGlomac CIRCULATION Gea aes New acs Bec Reel ‘Mongo eos» Sta get Curgingtam ‘CORPORATE SERVICES * MatorkAdminbttrA Dares ° 1S Suppor Att hs arrgen* Hf Doee: ee Mone © ‘Aisin Kasten Kosles on: Accont aka ih © Reopen Jeane Kha ery Reet Sil tne lig Ken WOODSMITHE MATL ORDER enters Dvr biere Mark Matos Sater St ero Sr Ney ‘sen Baye: nda Jones «Tekan Sere en: Matt Tec’ Oper Asia? Tar Alga «Tea leader. Kara Pager » Cast, Sr Raj: ata Con, Margo Petras Term Truckenbrod, Naver Dowrey. ‘Ades Best, Debora Rh» Warde St Cay ‘Guy Coniel Teck Frank Jonson WoODSMITH STORE Dave Laon «Assan Mawar Dal Schueier aff Pas Lvs eran Here Wendell See, Jin Decne, Kay Sait Jel. Johsooe ¢ fee ‘Menazer-Vice kawards sus Seeseeeee pegs te? Kip tee Bib Conga mae ore pen je appreciate Reeiiniratetrhasterhdteatbte eS EENGNE IO on ‘NaetinvBA EDITOR'S [Oo Rei SAWDUST ne of the things look forward to every holiday season are the sim- ple traditions. Decorating a tree. Listening to Christmas carols. WOUDA CENTERPIECE, This year, I decided to turn these traditions into woodworking project —a tree that ‘can be used as a holiday centerpiece. ‘The “branches” ofthe tree are cut with a scroll saw. And they're deco- rated with small wood ornaments. Plus, we've included plans for an optional base that hokls a music box movement inside. This movement rotates the tree as it plays the tune of “White Christmas.” GF PROS. Another of my hob iday traditions is making gifts to share with family and friends. The Christmas tree would make a great gif. But so will two of the other pro- jects in this issue: a magazine rack and a desk set. Both are attractive projects that can be built quickly AUFFET SERVER. There’s one final project in this issue — an heirloom buffet server. However i's such a nice project that you're probably not going to wantto giveit away. Butitis related to my favorite holiday tradi- tion — the family dinner. And with this server, youll have plenty of room for even more of your favorite holiday dishes, eur wanteD, We're looking for an associate editor to join our staff here at August Home Publishing. ‘The Ideal candidate wll have both writing and woodworking experience If youre interested in this pos tion, Send a reswune and letter high lighting your experience to J. S. Moore, 2200 Grand Ave, Des Moines, 1A 50312 ‘STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIR MANAGEMENT AND CIRCULATION tRequred by 8 US. 389) ‘pc Td We, 2 bs No: SA {nen mee sates cer eae, fever es hes os Ber er Son tie sng Co, 280 Cad Sa eo Ke ac ate x Comey ons ue Cpe mag ee thea re aie te pe 2) Gace: a Naa 19a tt Meso, Des Mons oe 1,10 Oe As Das Mes ove S02 Dod Fe 2 de rb "gee a esse ate cabs a ap ee Tay Set, ae t Die stair 107 te Hace ee Te 1 Cone aa at Woodsmith No. 114 CONTENTS Features Buffet Server .. Te te ore cele ee lerne re ne very practical as well. Besides all its storage space, the twp of the bnujfet folds ou vo create a lange surface for serving. Soss Hinges -16 ‘You can’t see any hinges on the top of the buffet server — tail the wings have been folded out. That's because we used some special hardware, called Soss hinges. In this article, we show you how to accurately install chese hidden hinges step-by-step. Magazine Rack . ald This magazine rack doesn't require much time to build — we used ordinary mortise and tenon joints to hold it together. And you'll appreciate how its open design keeps your magazines right at hand. Holiday Centerpiece fae ‘This cheerful centerpiece will be « favorite for years to come. And ifyou want add to its appeal, we've included an optional base with a musical movement that plays a holiday melody as the mee rotates. Desk SEt irc tenmcimetiiante 30 Tis de at has op eee ASAE fg a cha holds those handy yellow note pads. And a taller box for pens, pencils, and letter openers. Both components feature square pegs and curved caps and can be buil in a weekend. Departments Tips & Techniques ... Shop Notes . Talking Shop Sources No.4 Woodsmith FROM FELLOW WooDWORKERS Shop-Mad: Sandi ig Block Ive always used a serap piece of wood for a sanding block. Its simple and doesn’t cost much. But there isaproblein ‘The sandpaper tends to shift around and tear ‘while Tm using the block. But recently T came up vith away to hold the peper in place using plastic tub- ing. Fist, Iused a Forsiner bit to create a couple of rounded channels across the top ofthe block. ‘Then [rounded thenose ‘ofthe bled on bat sander androuted afinger grip on each side, see detail’ ‘The sandpaper heldin place by two pieces of a. plastic tubing that are pressed into the channels, see phoio and drawing, To use the sanding block, simply secure the Woed peg ‘Whenever T use wood plugs, I generally like to ‘tain or finish ther before ‘adding them to my project. ‘The trouble is that since they'resosmallit’s difficult ‘to hold on to them, ‘To hold the plugs while ‘applying the finish, { use thumbtecks,Justtapearow ofthem down toa piece of scrap and use them to hold the plugs in place. ‘When the plugs aredry, remove them and pull up the tape, tacks and all. Susie Aen Obyepia, Wastingzon Woodsaith back end of the sandpaper with one of the plastic tubes. Then wrap the paper around the block and Varnish Squeez« Tuse varnish on alot of my projects. But instead of brushing the varnish straight from the can or pouring some into a sepa rate container, | came up with a different solution, T put the varnish in an ‘empty dish soap squeeze ‘secure the other endin the ‘sume fashion. Fugene R. Viney Granite Falls, Minnewta jottle Doitle, see photo. This way, Tan ust squeeze the var- nish onto my project and brash itout. Before closing the bot tle, Jean squeeze theair out to keep the varnish fresh. BobOden Rochester, New York No.1id Taper Trick Whenmakingtapered legs, ting all the tapers evenly. Toften use my jointer. I Ifsnot always easy to keep taper each side of the leg track ofthe mumberof pass: by making several passes es I make on each side of coverthe jointer knives. the workpiece. But the most difficult Sotomakesure that 'm part ofthe process is cut- removing thesameamount ‘of material from all four ofthe end of the leg. sides, find the centerpoint ‘Then when I'm cutting ‘onthe bot ofthelegand the tapers, I know to stop draw a circle with acom- onceTVvereached theedge pass, see Fig. Lbelow The ofthe circle, see Fig. 2. diameter of the circle is ‘equal to the desired width Thomes Pawsa Virginia Beech, Virginia Dawacrdein center of leg blank NOTE: Demeter of Gree eouas fend of tapered leg Drill Press Depth Stop Foralongtime, hedirou- vibration from the motor ble with the depth stop on cause: the stop nuts onthe ay drillpress.Itseems the collar to come loose, ‘To solve this problem, 1 placed a rubber O-ring between the nuts Thering absorbs the vibration, and the nuts stay put. Warren Weber Canons Gry, Cobo Fm always losing the cap up with an easy replace. tomy gebottle.Solcame ment. Just cut a tapered plug out of a plastic liquid detergent bottic. ‘The plugis easy to rip, and if T tose it, there's ‘Cutiepered | always plenty more. i EL Schefer Sands Poin, New York Cord Keeper When wrapping the cord around atool for storage, I like to thread the cord ‘between the prongs ofthe plug, Thento holdthe core in place, I just slip a nail through the prong holes. John Inmet Allyn, Weskingen No. 14 Custom Edging Sander Recently I was making a table top with plastic lan nate and solid wood edg- ing. In order to sand the ‘edging tush withthe sur face of the table without scratching the laminate, made a custom sanding block, see drawing. Simply cutarabbet along the erlge of the block the same width asthe edging, see detil'eThen attach a strip of sandpaper to the face of the rabbet. Dean Ces Scouse, Arona Te ae ‘fyou would like to share an original shoptested tip, ‘send it to; Woodomith, Tips and Techniques, 2200 Grand Avene, Des Moines Jowa50012, Orifitscas- ier; PAX t to us a: 5152826741, Or use our E-Mail address: wocdsithi@ woodsinih.com. Inchidea brief explanation and skeich or photo. If ‘your ips publisher, youl receive S30 to $150, depend. ing on the published length. And don't worry, well reunite the tipand redraw the art ifnecessary’ Ako, please include a daytime phone number. Woodsmih FEATURE PROJECT BUFFET SERVER This server features some particularly interesting challenges: from the mitered doors wrapped with bead edging to the flip-top surface. this buffet server can be. The top with the wings folded in, the server ly. The fon is divided into four parts folds out to create more room for _doesat take up much room and pro- The two insile pieces pivot out on, cishes.Sofor those large family eath- vides some handy storage space. hinges and are supported by the two ‘rings, youneverhave fo worry about FOIDING TOP. So how does the fold- outside picces, ee inset photo below. But what [reall lke is that when the opis folded in, you cant see any hardware. Thatsbecause used some special, “hidden” hinges — Soss hinges. For step-by-step instructions, see the article on page 16) v0ORS. The Soss hinges aren’ the only unique hinges in this project. ‘Theinset doorsare mounted on “ao- mortise” hinges, seepage 13.Unlike traditional butt hinges, these hinges are easy to install anc allow for quite abit of adjustment when is time to hhang the doors DRAWER. Although the top and doors use special hardware, tock. a different approach with the drawer. I thought metal drawer ‘uides would look out of place here, So [used wooden guides. ‘Theproblem with wide drawers is they tend to rack and bind as they're opened and closed. To avoid this, Tused runners at the Sides to support the weight ofthe raver. And Tused simple guides underneath soitwould open and close without racking. When the guests have gone home ‘and the dishes have been pu away, eu can singpy fold the wo wings ofthis server cased — with no hinges visible 6 Woodsmith No. ti4 erent ae Construction Details VERA DIMENSIONS 351g" x 35%2"W x 21D . Nore edie wih i Dic series ont and beck nore: tower cre open entre aejtabs shelf ‘and frame esced eoging ase \ Secired ty clase For bate profi ‘and supports potter, Seepage 10 No.114 Wondsmith 7 EEN, Case ‘There area lot of different parts to this buffet server but the place to start is wih the case. Most of the case is made with plywood that's edged front and back However, to create the opening forthe drawes there are twohard ‘wood stretchers as well SID, TOP & BoTTON. To begin, I cat the sides (A), top and bor tom (B) panels to size from 4" plywood, see craving and Figs. L and 2, Note: When sizing the pan- els, allowed for ¥'thick haré- ‘wood edging that willbe added to the front and back to hide and protect the plywood edges. But don't add the edging ust yet, OTF oy ang Aseries ofit-videdarloesneedio be bofemypines : ton thesdepanetsirst seFig. 1. Seeeiotend ‘A Whie wmming “These daloes will hold the top and the edging fush, bottom andthe tretchers. the router bit wil ‘The next thing to do iscreate V"- (‘¢. []) SHBESECTION VIEW, gouge the edging as _thicketongues on the top and bottom. _—@ man, the bearing “ips” panels that fit into the dadoes on the ‘nwo the groove on sides, see Fig. 2. These tongues are the panel. To pre- created by cutingrabbets on theends vent this, ladded of the panels, see Fig. 22 temporary plug. _PLEWOOD EDGING. At thispoint,allthe plywood panels are ready for some YAMthick edging (C), see drawing. al thing here is you nced to “plug” this technique, see page Todothis,Iglued extrawidestripsto the dadoes to provide a surface for Note: The edging doesat run the the panels and trimmed them with a the bearing oa the router bit, see entire length of the top and bottom, Mush timrouterbit The only unusu- photoin marginat let. (Formoreon panels. t stops lush with the rabbets y rl countersink 8 ‘Woodsmith No. 14 ontthe ends see detail‘ at lef ‘ast BACK Ater the edgingshas been trimmed flush on the top and bottom panels, the next piece to make is a 'ys'thick plywood back panel, This piece does more than just close off the back. Iralso strengthens the case and keepsit square. ‘To hold the back, [first cut a 3 deep groove along the back edges of the sides, top. and bottom panels see detail Bat left and Figs. 1 and 2b. ‘After the grooves forthe back have been cut, the case back (D) can be cout to size, see drawing, Todetermine itssize, ldry assembled the case and ‘measured the opening. Gust remem- ber to allow forthe grooves) STRETCHERS. The last two pieces of the case are the 34"thick hardwood stretchers (F), see drawing at left and Fig. 3. These pieces are ripped 2 ‘wide and are cut to the same length, ‘as the top and bottom panels (22). ‘The stretchersfitinthe grooves in the side panel jst ike the top panel witha tongue, see details’ and ‘d left Here again, all you have todo cut a rabbet on the ends to create thick tongue, see Figs 3aand 3b, ‘The only difference between the two stretchersis the onein front also requires a notch. This allows i to fit flush withthe front of the edging on the sides of the case see Fig, 3a and tear eatiefe ‘Todo this Haid asidepanel down and easy to cut; you can use the same fitthe panesandsireichersinto their fencesetting thatyouused tocutthe grooves Then ladded the otter side rabbets. All you need todos set the pane! on top stood the case upright stretcher onits front edge and lower andl clamped i together. This isnot a the bladesoitcutsanotch the same quick assembly, so be sure to dry thickness. the edging (A") assemble it to make sure everything, ASSEMBLY, At this point, the case goes together well and use & slow- could be assembled, but frst [took setting glue. (used white give) the opportunity to drill some holes SWB. With the caseassembled, you hileis easy to getattheinsde face canstepback and takeadeep breath. ‘ofthe pieces. On the case sides (AD, All ia’ eft withthe case now isto Triled holes for 4" shelf pins that adda shelfinsie.Trippe the piy- willholdashelthat’sadded late.see wood shelf (F) 173i wide and ext t Figs. 1nd 1e,"Then I drilled coun to lengtn so there was Ye! gap at tersunc pilot hoes in the top panel eacside, (Mine was 31%" long) The ©) seeFigs. 2and2a/Thesewillbe front of the shelf is edgod like the used to secure the top later on. case panels, except this time, used Now the case can be assembled. thick edging (@). PLYWOOD CUTTING DIAGRAM gs" x98°= 0" Chery yoo - ve ze are ‘AA FALSERRONT re 18x32 sax Sree s Bee or eerie ‘nsplepimaod ox the harwoad Eiteng diagram Seepage No.1 suraigh edge between profiles, attach scrap gue with double- sided tape and use aaflush wim be 10 jase With the case complete, l added the base next, sce the photo above, Its made up of three picees mitered to ‘wrap around the front and sides of the case. These pieces have an ogee profile on their top edges, and the ‘ont piece has a carved profile cut along its bottom edge, ‘UATS. But you cant simply add the base pieces to the case —you need something toaltach them to. So first, added frontand side cleats (H, 1) {othe bottom ofthe case, see Fig. 5. ‘The cleats are 1" tall and have two sets of countersunk pilot holes drilled in them. (One got is for screwing the cleats to the case, and the other is for attaching the base pieces to the cleats. ‘Thecleats setback "on. the front and sides of the case, see Fig. Sa. But they stop 3" short ofthe back edge. This ercates oom for two back supports (J)that can be added next. These arecut the ‘same eight as the base pieces ("). BASE PIES, Aiter the back suppor's. are ghied and screwed to the case, the base front (K) and sides (L) can be added, see Fig. 6, These /'- thick pieces are ripped 4" wide. But ‘before mitering them tolength, Irout- ‘ei the ogee profile along the top, out side edge of each, see Fig: 6a, Now the three base pieves ean be initered so they wrap around the case with an shoulder, starting with the ‘base front, see Fig. 6. And when the front comers are complete, the back ‘ends ofthe sides can be ext fish with the back ofthe case, Before attaching the base pivees, 1 laid out and cutthe curved profileon the front, see Fig. 6c. The straight section was shaped by roughing out the line with the band saw and then routing it straight with a fush trim bil and a straightedge, see margin photo. (Youll need to clean up the ‘corners with a chisel or sandpaper.) CORNER BLOCKS. When the base piieces have been glued and screwed to the supports, I glued short, s!- square corner blocks (M) into the frontand back corners ofthe baseto strengthen this joint, see Fig. 6 ‘Woodsinith No.114 Top Now the buffet can be set right side up so you can add the top. The top of the bufict is made up of two long, hardwood panels: 2 subtop and the folding top, see drawing at right. Sut-Tor The firs thing to dois ete up thick pan! forthe subtop (8), see Fig. 7, When cttng this panel to size, it ehould end up flush with the back edge of the case but overhang the front and each side 6", ‘sce detail ‘a’ at right and Fig. 7, (My ‘sub-top was 2054"x 34%4".) ‘With the panel cut to size, next I route «coe proieon the Fort and side edges, see Figs. 7 and 7a. ‘Then I drilled four countersunk pilot. ‘eles on each end. (Countersink the bottom face.) These are for securing the folding top to the sub+top later. FOLDMG Yor, Next, {started cn the folding top (O). Itstarts out as anoth- cerong, sick panel, sce Fig 11 first ripped the folding top 21" wideso it would overhang the front edge of ‘the subtop %4", sec detail ‘a’ above. ‘The folding top overhangs the sub- top 46" on the sides, too, But when initially cutting the panel to length, I added 34" to the final length t allow forthe thee saw keris that wil be made when cutting the pane ter. (My panel started off 35%" long.) Before cutting the panel, I routed ‘a profilealongits front and side edges. ‘Using a %4" round-over bit, the first thing to do is round over the bottom edge, see Step 1in Fig. 7b. Then flip the panel over to rout another roundover, But this ime, raise the bit tocreatea 16" shoulder along the top edge, sce Step 2in Fig, 7b. Now the folding topcan becatinto four pieces, see Fig. 8. To do this, 1 used my rip fence, cutting the long ppanelin haf frst and then cutting off the ‘Yong pieces on each end. TOP ASSEMBLY, Before the folding top can be altached to the sub top, the {wo halves of each folding top must be NOTE: Routprofile ‘ontop When securing fo freate center gap 0 match io of the hinges Jpined with Sosshinges."These hidden hhinges require come careful layout ‘and aceurate mortises. (For more on installing these hinges, see page 16) With the hinges mortised into the folding top, the short 4’-Hong end pieces can be glued and serewed to the ends ofthe substop, see drawing above. The hacks of these panels are ‘fush and the folding top is centered side-to-side. But the important thing here isthe gaps between the folding top halves should match the gaps here the halves arejoined with the ‘hinges, see detail above ‘With the folding top and substop screwed together, all that’s left isto screw them to the cise, making sure the tops overhang the cascthe same con each side, see detal a above. A. The folding top on this server uses “hidden’ Soss hinges. For step- step directions {forinstellaion, see page 16, No.114 n With the top on, the ease is complete So next I turned my attention to the | two doors, see drawing atright. These | doors are inset and their frames ] are joined with miter joints. But ‘what really stands out is the bead ‘edging that wraps around the door frame, see photo at left FRAME PIECES. To build the doors, [started with the frames. The stiles (P) and rails (Q) are cutto ‘width (24°) from 24"-thick hard ‘wood, see drawing on opposite page. Butbetore these pieces can becutto length, younced io make and ald the bead edging (R) to both edges, see box below. Ater the edging ison and has been Incase wih OES trimmed, the stiles and rails can be mitered to size, see drasringon next. The reason these doors can't be page. (When sizing the pieces, | trimmed mach isbecause othe bead allowed e!"'gaps around and between. molding that's epplied around the | the doors, see details’ and’b'above,) edges. Ifstoo thin o allow you to trim ‘Usually build an inset door to it much off without itbeing noticeable. its opening exactly. This way, I cen Sowhen mitering the rails and ses trim itso the gaps around the doors to length, you need to be as accurate are all the same, But this method as possible so any trimming will be | tied ‘Ee SPLINE & DOOR PANELS. With the door pieces cutto siz, the next thing 1 did was eut some I", Align the dowel jg with the fst layout line. Then using a %'-dia. brad-point bit, ori li'-deep hole. Drilall the end holes forall hinges before reachustng the ‘masking tape depth gauce. Ater dling the end holes in ll the pieces, repos- tion the tape depth stop to dil a V"-deep hole. Then hil cut the weste in the center of the mortises again sing the layout lines to align the dowel ig ‘Aiterdlingallthe holes, the mortse can beceancal up witha chisel. To prevent piitng te thin sidewall Of the mortise, amo e scrap piece tthe side of the workpiece for adcidonal suppor. No. 14 To install the mounting screws (W5 x 34%), place the hinge in the mortise end dil piot holes, using the hinge itself 2s a guide. Be careful not to overtighiten the ‘Sere or the threads wil strip out the end grain. ‘Woodsypith "1 are typically built neat and close at hand. But | also practical r not to wanted the design to be simple show off decor enough so the ra woods. And this rack isno different. completed over a weekend, Trvanted a place to keep magazines DESIGN FEATURES. But besidesaclean, ign and simpleconstruction also hhad a couple other f tamake therack: Forone thing, Iwanted the rack to bat mag: them withi 10 ames ofthis rack simply side To ack ether with haf lp joints. These half laps are cut coming to say on the table saw before the frames are assembled. shapedrack consists ines neat and right at i | interlocking frames, see the photo below left. Bach of these fram built with basic mortise and tenon joinery, which creates sturdy assem Diy that’s quicisto bul LEGS & RAILS ‘AsTjust mentioned, tofu t azine rack, you essentially make two identical frames, see drawing oa top ‘of next page, And each frame ‘outastwolegsconnected by Gs. I started by cutting th Jegs (A) w size from 9th cee drawing on next page, (The lees are Lif" wide and 2646! lo mentioned, the legs soe ost coe woot Teter tises first and then size the tenons to fit. So the first thing to do is lay outthe morta aac ege The ting tata odd here the ‘mortises on each leg aren't the same Sze. The reason for this is simp ‘The tenon on the top rail is offset, refer to the drawing above. This way, there wll be plenty cfroom to eutthe carve slong thetop edge ofthe me without exposing the tenon. Tooutthe morse, start by camp ing a fence to the drill press table. ‘Then drill a series of "dia., over- DP) saving hoes, see Fg. Shop Tix When dillng marises, Taka ete itt dite mortises ‘slightly deeper than the length ofthe tenons. (My mortises were drilled Ae! deep) This extra Yi! creates some room for excess gue. After the mortises are drilled, tere’ ite hand work todo, The Sides of the mortises need to be leaned up witha chisel, soe Fig. 2 And the ends ofthe mortisesneedto ference is the top rail starts offextra To make sure the shoulders of each ‘be squared up to acceptthe tenons. wide (3¥4"). Thisallows forthe curve tenon align, [clamped a short block Ralls, With the mortises onthe legs on the top edge. to the rip fence to act as a stop. complete, work can begin on the top Once the rails are cut to size, the The important thing is to size the | (B) and bottom rails (C), see draw- next stepis tocut the Jong tenons tenons on the rails to fitthe mortises ing above, Both are culo finished ontheenisofthe rails seFig.4T0 in thelegs.Amostallthe shoulders Tength (1616"), and the bottom railis do this, lused the table sawand made here are the same. (Mine were 14", ‘cut to finished width (2"). Theonly dif a series of passes over the saw blade, see Fig. 3a.) The only exception is the top shoulder on each top rail: To CUTTING DIAGRAM off hese shoulder, Tsnpy rased ‘XIV - 60" Ash (1.5 Bd. Fe) the saw blade 1%4" high, see Fig. 3b. MATERIALS A leas) ax 14-26% B Top Rais) 34x 3%4- 16 € Bim. Rails(2) ¥ax2-16% D Slats(10) ex %-9 Z Noid Woodsiith 19 Legs conven With the mortise and tenons cut on the legs and rails, the next step is to dry assemble the frames, see Fig. 4. Thad two goals in mind here. First. 1 ene ies ee eon ‘out the notches on the legs, ‘These angled notches are the key, to the two frames sliding together alter they're assembled. They allow the frames to interlock at the center and give the rack its X-shape. In UT nore Thave arta ee entice: fusing atfirst. Butwith the frame dry assembled, it’s easier to see where the notches should end up, see Fig. 4. ‘The top of each notch should be flush with the bottom edge ofthe bot tom rail, see Fig. 4a, If the notch is belo the bit ral therewlbea gap between the two frames when they're put together. Avery slight gap is okay, but if it’s too wide, then the magazines will slide through and end upon the floor. ‘Next, I laid out the bottom of the notch, as well 2s the angles on the pee ee oe) just rough guidelines. When it comes time to cut the notches, you'll want to. sneak up on the cut and make sure you get a good fit, ‘CUTTING THE NOTCHES. Now that the notches are laid out, you can dis- Se ee nice ir saw ready. There's not much to this. ‘The miter gauge is angled 20°, and 1 added an auxiliary fence that extends across the blade. This not only pro- vides better support. Italso reduces the chance that the back edge of the ial a ‘Alte’ toowistsetthe helt ee eee really just angled half laps, the height of the blade should equal half the width of the legs (4" in my case). ‘Shop Tip: If you accidentally cut the notches too deep, you can place eva eae, fae eae aya wronthe vibe To cut the notches, | started near the top layout line, sneaking up on. (but leaving) the: ‘Thea make multiple passes over the saw blade. oe 70° angle onlinseoat AG Layout noth onoutise of ‘until you approach the bottomlayout —theleg. seeFig. Ga Justmake sure the Tine, When yon get nearthisline, test bevel is cut in the opposite direction the fit of the pieces between passes asthe notch. Also, usea stop block so until the legs it together just snug. the legs end up the same length, BIVEL NDS. With the notches cut, Finally, to make sure the point of the next step isto bevel the end of the bevel won't snag and break off, cach leg soitsitsflai on thefloor,see flipped thelex over anc “knocked off” Fig. 6.7To do this, | tilled the blade the sharpup ofthe leg, creating a ¥4" 35° and trimmed off the bottom of chamfer, see Fig. 8. ‘Woodsmith No.4 Slats & Assembly Before you can assemble the frame, there's one last thing to do: add the slats between the rail, Then the frame can be gived together, and the curve can be cat on top. ut noRTS. The Ss step toading the latsis to ct the mortises in the topand bottomrails Asbefore, [used the drill ressand cleaned up the mor- tises with a chisel. But what'simpor- tanthereisthatall the mortisesalign. So, | laid them out on one rail and then transferred the lines with a square, see Fig. 7. ‘mane Stas. With the mortises cut, [made the slats (D), see drawing, aboveright. These pieces are thik and 14! wide. Thelength ofthe sis, depends onthe distance between the rails So I dry assembled a frame to measure the distance between the rails. This equals the shoulder-to- Shoulder length of the sits. Then I simply cutthem 1" longer forthe H' long tenons, (My las were 9 long.) ‘The next step isto cut tenons on both ends ofeach slat see Figs. Sand 8a, Here again, I used a stop block amped to the rip fence to establish the length ofthe tenons. BUTE ARGS. After the tenonsare ct, the frames can be giued together. ‘Then when the glue is dry, all that's left isto create the arc on the top of ‘each frame, see Fig. 9. To do this, idrove a brad on each sideof the frame. Thea Tbenta piece of "hardboard between the two nails so the rail was 3" wide at the center, see Fig. 9a. NOE: Te dtenine ‘rasa betaen (pik onda 1" Fer tenons With the ares lid out, I roughed ‘them ont with the band sav, saying 14e"onthe waste side ofthe ine. Then sanded up to the! Finally, before sliding the two Woortemth ‘frames together, [used a 46" round ‘aver bittoroutabilnase profil along the top edges, see Fig. 10 Beired pormament tiespeotaue * PUES IONE SHOP NOTES Cutting Circles with a Router generally use a band saw for cutting circles. But make ing the rings for the base ofthe centerpiece (see page 24) calls for cuting acircle ‘on the inside as well as the outside of a workpiece. To do this, Lused arouter table and a basic jg. The jig is just a piece of YMthick hardboard witha small nail driven through one side, The nail serves as a pivot point to gackoy guide the ring (i hrdboord) ae beaks > Double ~

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