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    Woodsmith Magazine - 111

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
    Flag for inappropriate content
    492 views36 pages

    Woodsmith - 111

    Uploaded by

    rsotoqp
    Woodsmith Magazine - 111

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
    Flag for inappropriate content
    of 36
    Garden Arbor * Step Stool * Low-speed Grinder * Hollow Grinding * Flip-top Tool Stand © Vol. 19] No. 111 Woodsmith June, 1997 Publisher Donald B. Peschke Baker TerryJ,Srohmin Associate Faitors Jon Gartison Viner Anca xt Director ‘Senior Mlustrators Graphic Designer Mike Mittenneier (CREATIVE RESOURCES ‘eae ier Telefe espe ex Make + Sctojt Degrr Rent Wes «Poet Degnrs Te Tense Kev Pay Sko Monger Cuts» Sip Crone ln «Parga Lak Satie + Snir Peeper Cap eg BOOKS Bene ater Deus Hid» Art Deora + Sealer Grape Design Chis Glowacl cIRCULATION Dire Se Newsies Dor CORPORATE SERVICES, Ye Pesto lensing aud Barc Jou cary Courter: tian» Se Aco asta Ts ‘dete Pee Mary FSi « Paden De Geo (Gini Prodan Seah «ron ‘Ra Duka Laer De a aes Pre iss age Spec! Ty Crh New Mette Menage {Secon Gane» He Ste drt Dirt ane Perso * her Adan AlRarsoxe Sport sont hss arin e Pf Declopment Di Joye More * 1 Asta Kistner ain sna ens Jearae ain, Sri Ribey «Being Mit! Boe Goth WOODSMINA NAN. ORDER petit bike ees Mg Ma Nats * Cone Sre Ne rt Bae» Nat Sal i Ket A Buechner SipeNeney len yer Linens Tena! Sree Rip: Matt Toute Oper se ‘army Aldi «Tent eaer rae + Cit Sr ‘em Aoraoe arn Por Pay Teachentel Nancy Dene Adan Best, Debora Rh » ona Chae Garton Siac Lay rae woopsminisroRE Mens: bas Lact » Ata Manager Yl Scheie Seles Sta ar tnery Teer ere rill dig Barnet, ety Sah oe Jobin he Mensa Saco ea amet a a Bones trea ‘Ret hr aon turns Rg Senior ‘io aaa Comes A St "ina da sant ie rere ee Eine mena ‘init Wie anthcom PrrtainSA 2 EDITO COLUMN SAWDUST a bit lengthy. Which, for the most part, is okay with me. After all, when ‘shop building a project. thing. So when the snow finally melts and spring arrives, I'm ready Now don’t get me wrong, | still want to build projects. Tim just featured on page 6 provided just the outside. And it offered an interesting challenge as well — a chance to try my hand at building a larye project. (The garden arbor stands about ight feet tall, almost six feet wide, anc four feet deep) ‘While this is the largest project be built in small sections, none of which are complicated to build. In fact, there is very little joinery the only project in this issue that falls gory. The other is the low-speed grinder featured on page 20. Woodamith project started off the same many of our shop projects do— with a wish lst of features. Firs, to prevent overheating the tool, the grinder had to run a alow speed. Secon, we wanted to elimi nate she expense of buying a special motor. Third, the grinder couldn't ince up much epace inthe shop. And finally, it had to include « tool rest system that allows you to quiekly and easily get aperfectholiow grind. The solution was to use the table sat We connected a pulley and belt 10 the saw arbor t© produce a low speed grinder without buying a sepa rate motor. And since the grinder sitson top ofthe table saw, it doesn't reeuire a stand that takes up extra floor space. Finally, the base of the sgrinder made a perfect platform for adding, @ tool rest with @ miero- adjustment feature, Now (have to adit that what we came up with is a bit unusual looking. (sill remember the look on everyone's face when they sav the first proolype) But you can't anque with the results — this tool prouces an most perfect hollow round edge, Hollow grinding the bevel gets the tool sharp. But to get itr sharp, ou' need to hone the bevel, Fortunately, his is easy 10 do and doesn't take much time. For more information oa ereating a razor sharp edge, bo sure to check out the sharpening article on page 8. No.1 A LOOK INSIDE Garden Arbor Woodworking on a grand scale. This graceful, clo project stands nearly eight feet wall and incorporates several woodworking techniques. The beams are connected to the posts with mortise and tenon joinery. And the lattice side panels use basic half-lap joints. Step Stool . This sturdy weekend project is constructed with through mortise cand tenon joinery. Plus a handy pull-out step features a unique hidden stop system chat prevents it from being pulled out too far. Low-speed Grinder. ‘Our unique shop-built grinder allows you convert your table saw: into a sharpening station. And it’s designed with an adjustable tool holder that makes grmdmg chisels and plan irons a snap. Hollow Grinding... From flatening the back of the tool to the final honing of the beveled edge, this article will eake you through all the steps to cre- cating a perfect, razor-sharp hollow ground edee. Flip-top Tool Stand 32 This easy-to-buald project is a great space saver. The tp on this stand spins allowing you 10 mount ewo tools on top of each other. And when you're done, it rolls out of the way. Departments Tips & Techniques . Shop Notes .. Talking Shop Sources. Nout ‘Woodsmith Low-speed Grinder page 0 FROM FELLOW WOODWORKERS Tips & TECHNIQUES " Extension Dog recently dried aseriesof dog holes inthe top of my ‘workbench and mounted a woodworking vise fo the front in order to clamp workpieces down on the ‘op ofmy bench ‘The only problem Ihave is trying to clamp up work pieces thatare shorter than the distance between the firstdog hole and the ede cf my workbench. Instead of driling more holes in my bench, came upwithadiffereatsokaton, T made an ‘extension” bench dogout ofa piece of serapand some dowels. pair ofholes ae drilled in the dog to match the spacing of the dog holesin iy bench, Then a couple extension ofdowels are gined intothe holes and secured with nails, see Fig. 1. (The sec- ‘ond dowel allows the bench dog to span two dog holes, making itmore stable.) Since this dog reaches nearly to the edge of the bench, it can bold very short pieces, see Fig. 1a. And by turning the dog around, | can hold slightly longer workpieces. Php Jacl S. Paul, Mares Screwdriver Extension Recently, [was installing a small cabinet and found there wasn’: enough room, to get my hand in the cal ret opening to install the ‘mounting screws. Since didr’thavealong- handled screwalriver, 1 Jooked through my toolbox. to improvise a substitute. Cutting Leather {built the box featured in Issue #107 of Woodsmith. Bat when it came time to cutthe leatherto ftin the bottom ofthe box, Fused adiierent wchnique. Before cutting the leather to size, Iglueditto apiece ofpostesboard with spray adhesive. (It helps tort seuftthe surfce of theprsterboard wih sand I grabbed my socket set apd found a socket size that fitsnug over the end of my screwdriver handle (a tweelvepoint socket works best), Then I simply used my ratchet to tighten the screws, see Fig, | Jin Howick Bdmends, Washington ‘paper togivethe adhesive something to grab.) With the leather fixed to the posterboard, Iwasabl= to cutitto exactsize with- ‘out worrying about it stretching. Thea I just alued the leather and the pposterboard dowa to the bottom of the box. Par Selon Hadhon, Masachuses No. 111 Y Stop Block Normally when I have to cut severalpiccesthe same Jength, [use a stop block. ‘on my miter gauge, or I clamp a block of wood to the rip fence of my table sawto use asa stop. But recently I as male ing a project that called for several short pieces. Because oftheir smal size, Thad tocome up withabet ter (and safer) method for cutting these pieces. So wliat 1 did was to make an altogether ditfer- ent kind of stop block. My stop blekcisadjustableand hssarunnerthatfitsin the miter gauge slot of my saw, see photo at right. huttyour workpiece upto center of the runner fora _ To prevent the screw The blocks made up of whenusing the stop lock machine screw. from spinaing in the hole two pieces of "thick Therunner construction Amachine screw,awast —winen tightening the knob, stock A couple Y/!thick is similar to that of the er, and a plastic knob are I epoxied a wire brad spacersaregliedbetween block, exceptthatitssized alltha’e needled to secure the screw head, The brad the two pieces to ereate 4 tofitinthe mitergaugesiot the stop block. By ighten- fits inthe slotofthe runner slotforabolt,see Fig.1. of your table saw. Andthe ing the knob the machine and locks the serew in ‘Then leuts0? bevelson spacersare only 4" thick. screw spreads the runner place, see Fig. La one end ofthe block. This Thena%fe'-dia.counter- apart slightly, locking it in ‘lle W. Smith creates a blunt “point” to sunk hole is drilled in the the miter gauge lot. Holle, Masachocts Making Cut-out Hearts [ike to add small, hearts where I want the heart to shaped cutouts to some of be centered. Then using a the projects I build. The — Forstner bit] drilltwo over- trouble Tvehad in he past lapping holes — each one isgetting allthe hearts the an equal distance fromthe ‘same size and shape. centerline, see Fig. 1. Recently however, I ToSnish the heat, just came up with 2 quiek snd cut out the Vshaped piece easy method for making at the bottom, see Fig. 2. heart cutouts hn Lee Tstartby laying outa line Healy QUICK TIPS BUT eC ail Ifyou would lke to share an arignal shoptested tip, send it to: Waodsmith, Tips and Techniques, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Maines, Iowa 50812. Orifi’s eas- Je, FAX itto us at: 515-282-6741, Or use our E-Mal: ‘woodsmith@woodsuih.com Ifpublished, you'll receive $30 to $150, depending ‘on the published length. Include a brief explanation and sketch or photo. And don't worry, well rewrite the tip and redraw the art, ifnecessary. Alko, please include a daytime phone number BLAST GATE TIP DRILL BIT TIP ‘The last gates on my dust collee- Ihave a hard time reading the torhavea tendency orale losed. —sanped sizes on dnilits. So dip So tohold the gates open, just the endoftheitin paint, then wipe clamp on an ordinary cothespin. _offthe excess. The paint illsin the giued sandpaper to thejaws of recesses of the numbers, making the pinto giveitabetter grip) them easier toread. Davi Zier Themas Paces Shakopee, Miemesoaa Vira Beach, Via No. 111 ‘Woodsmith 5 OuTnoc PROJECT GARDEN ARBOR This arbor presents a few challenges — the biggest being its size. But don't let that scare you. It’s designed to be built and assembled m small sections. Arrears seg building an outdoor project, and Td probably rattle off a quick list: the differentkinds of woods yo might use, theneed for exterior rade hardware and glue, as wellas the dit ferent finishing options. But none of these differences realy affect the woodworking part ofthe project. How: the pievesare cut and put together: Bat this outdoor project is differ ent for another reason — its size Standing almost Sfeet tall, this gar- den arbor is easily the biggest wood ‘working project I've ever tackles. Anal even though there was plenty of woodworking involvedin building the arbor, it aso allowed me to get ut of my usital woodworking *rou- fine.” After al, whon building a pro- jectof thisscale, youjust can'talways, approach things the same way. Forinstance, cuting @ tenon isust- ally simple matier on the able saw. Unless the piece happens to be an & footlong ‘st post. But inthis case, T otin litle practice with atoll dont often get to use: a hand saw. Antlifit’s been awhile since youve eda hand saw, don’t worry. The pieces don'thavettoitlike a glove, In fact, having alittlo“‘play” inthe fit is whatyou'reafter. tallow the arbor to go together easier ater on, ‘OWTDOOR MATERIALS. Ofcourse, build- to rust and glue that’s going tohold tions, so you can break it down and ing-a project that encs up outdoors So chase exterior grace hardware. reessemble it easily does require some diferent materials. Andi when gluing pieces together, | __ And when the arbor is ready to be As for the wood, [built my arbor out used a strong, “weatherproof” adhe installed, you also get to be con- ofredvood. But there are anumber sive: polyurethane glue. (For more siruction worker fora day. (was the of other woods that could be used on this giue, sce page 4) foreman, ofcourse.) Our arbor is set with great results, inckiding cedar, OWTDOORINSTALATION. Finally this on concrete pads and secured with White oak, and Douglas fir arbor also lets you get outside abit, expandable anchors and L-brackets, Anclan outdoor project alsohas to. too. But youwon't needalargecrew see the right detail on page 7. (And Dputup with extremes in weather. This to putit together. Its designed to be _turnto rage 15fora camplete descrip means using screwsthat areu'tgoinig built and assenibled in smaller sec- tion of our installation procedure.) Woodsmith No.1 OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 91° x 75-°W x 47°D No.1 Side Assemblies ‘To build the arbor, Istarted with the side assemblies, see drawing at ight. Thisincludes both the posts, aswell as the latice screens that connect the posts at the sides ofthe arbor POSTS began with the posts (A), see drawing. These are designed to ‘be cut from SYong 4x4s G12" x34"). Butit's more importantthat the posts are straight. So if you have a hard time finding straight dts at thelum- beryard, youcan glue upthe posts in three pieces, see page 1 Note: Ifyou gle un the posts, be suretouse a weatherproof"glue, For this project, I used polyurethane glue. ‘The first thing to do is to cut the poststo final length (5/9), see draw ing. My firs instinct was fo use the table saw. But then I realized that these pieces were too long. So Tut them to ength with a hand saw. ‘With the posts cut to length, the next step is tocut the tononoa the top ‘end ofeach, see drawing and detal'a” atright. Thesetenons wil ft nto the ‘beam assemblies later. And since the ‘mortises in the beams willequal the thickness of tevo-by” material, Icut these tenons 1/4" thick, Again, the posts are too long to be able to cut their tenons on the table avi So again, Lused a hand save For more on cutting tenons with a hand ‘saw or circular sa, see page 19. Allthat'leftto complete the posts isto rout stopped chamfer on each ‘edge, see drawing. LATTICE SCREENS. The next step is to take the lattice screens that join the posts, see drawing above. These screens are builtin two steps. First, made the dividers inside. Then 1 added the frame thet urrounésthem, see Figs. 1 and 2. SCREIN DIVIDERS, To make the sereens, I started with the vertical (B)ané horizontal dividers (©), see emer eboxon ose? Fig. 1. And to join these dividers, 1 Used simple half laps. ‘You might think that cutting all ‘those half laps (and geting them to Tine up) would be a hassle. But not really The secretisto ay aut and cut aseriesof notches in 2x8 blanks and Woodsmith then rip the stips from the blanks, sce the box below. This way, all the half laps line up perfectly “After the notches were cuton the bianksforthese pieces I ripped them 5, wide (thick). Then I assembled the dividers putting a tiny spotof ue ‘on each half lap to bold the pieces together. (I used the polyurethane giue here, too.) ‘SCHEIN SOUS & ENDS. With the dividers assembled, the sides (D) and ends (@) of the sereen can he ated as a frame around the dividers, see Fig. 2, These frame pieces are notched just lkethe dividers, butthese aren't truc half laps — the notches simply fitover the dividers Thuilt the sides first, starting with ‘an oversize blank. But tis time, I aid ‘utthe pieces by setting them against the divider assembly and marking them fom the horizontal pieces. Then aiterthe notches are cut, rp them to ‘width so they match the thickness of the divider pieces (14. “The screen ends are a litle citfer- ‘ent from the other sereen pieces. In ‘addition to the ?4"-wide notches that hold the vertical dividers, the ends ‘also have 114"'wide rabbets to hold the screen ses, eee Figs. 2a and 2, Now before screwing the frames to the dividers drilla series of eoun- ‘ersunk shank holes inthe sides (D), see Figs. 2b and c. These allow you toattach the complied ltice screens to the poss, see Fig.3. (There's not ‘enouigh room to dothis after you've assembled the screens) OTE: To, make ¥e 1%" rorenes for {tdecand ond soe box below | hates ee deta J raxrecwin socket ara eeu it r Spacer conto. Secon onpost assemely, Now the sides and ends can be screwed to the dividers, see Fig 2c. Then the completed screens canbe screwed tothe posts, see Fig, 3.Todb this, Isetthesereenson spac- ‘ers fo center them on the posts, The ‘only problem is there's not enough room for a screwdriver. So Lused a ratchet anda sodket with aPhilips head driver bit, see margin photo. Drill counteresnk shan When there's no room for a screw. driver, Lue aruchet ond ah socket with a Philips head alive bit. ‘Step 1. fist, cuta blank tofnallength and Step 2. Cut a series of 3-wide dacoes Step 3. The last step isto rp then ay out the postion of thenoicheson across the blank, using the miter gauge the edge of the blank. No 111

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