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VOL.16—-—s NOTES FROM THE SHOP NO.92 ! W d ith i, P ms dtm sh Some great tips and jigs for making tight-fitting frames No. 92 feet 1994 EDITOR'S COLUMN Donald B. Peachie DougasI_ Hicks James M. Dolan Philp A Totten onathaa Garbisen Mark A Willams “Ted Kraiceh Rod Soakes David Kreving (Ginda Shambaush Dirk Ver Stee Mark igdoo Crayola Egan ChrsGiwacks Ken Munkel JanHaleSvec Kent Welsh Steve Curtis ‘Steve Johnsen Liz Breseson Phowgrapher Gmphics Desion Director Senior Designers ‘Shop Manager ‘Shop Asst/Faciities Circulation Director Sudy Baum ‘Subseription Manager (Cire. Planning Coord. Rod Cain Newsstand Sales Kert A. Bucklon PURLISHING SERVICES Savage Gone Gae .Grephic ric Rabrt HLWitinere cps srrat Chet Crmar (CORPORATE SERVICES. Contre Baie Hache Aca Line hae Baer) Gee» Prt Mg Caden © af Sore Mr: nce Mares Eset Put Coe Dougs Mier» Appt Spe Linda Mor owe Adon. duno Chery A Su, Jase ‘pes ese hms © Bus. Metai Ken rath ‘WOODSUITHE MAIL ORDER Marketing Dir Robert Mary rt Die-Ciy Sack fon Fulfillment ors Valerie Wese *Cxtlog Po Mor’ Bb ket Pg Stir ita Joes Teh Sepert Se anee Reet Cytie Rerma, (CUSTOMER SERVICE ‘Serf Fox Ct Sor Rep: Jenifer Mor ‘Bi. DoyJobeson, Sars Ka. Aven Cae Steps Tagen eae sce Tammy Al 'SHIPFING DEPARTMENT Spr Jery Caren ® Bulflinen! ‘Gin Shean, Donnie Mey ack Caren Sy Cany Aevaper Dae Laren * Asin Mavaper Pas Scheer Sate Staff Wendel Sone. Dorin asec © Ofce Mone Virkibaward en Eee 20 Tense inas) SK Canal oes Spl re Pee tes da le ie SSomecia ce Sawdust Wrens! oe oe wera ee eee ‘otice are the jigs and fixtures that may be around. Lots of times they're on a machine, Son eee sees eo boa core eece tedeayeecha wera eee Soe eS sece oe acme cone tail fixture. Or a else Ta atten pee ee eens ee T usually get an in- tay cy Sb @ project that was BS Sa see ae Tee Ste ee Say ante wriecnos et ano (kay, so why al the tak about jigs? Tgotto thinking about this shorty ater I bait az from some photos sent in by Harry DeFu- ria, one of our readers. The jig is used to Support a turning (athe) gouge when sharpening i, see page 30. The problem Tve aways had with sharpening the bevel on a gouge is. geting it consistently Smooit and tthe coreet angle — both at the same time. Harry's jis simple to bild and hols the gouge im a way that makes this easy ‘The fet time Tused it, Steve, ott shop manager, was watching When T tamed over the rouge to check the Bevel. he wes ‘so impressed he said, “That's one jig we're hanging right ove the grinder Teseems that Steve has this pecking or der for jigs The ones we use the most say right by the machines. (I think the miter sue Secup jig shows on page 23 Sy vila i niotiscagon) ‘nd those we dont use as much are put in the storage eloset. The oval cutting ji | used for cutting 2 mirror frame about a year ago ftsin this calegory. It was one of the mos interesting ies [ve ever bul But were not likely to use it every day (or year) Sot siting inthe closet gathering dustand wating forthe next oval projec. ‘We may never use that oval cating jig ayain, bat there’s same securty know. ing its bac there. Justincase. AWaALNUT STORY ‘There'salso an inter esting story behind the walnut | wxed in the Stand-up Desk shown on page 6. It all cane rom one huge re that wasn the front yard of 3 woman's house in Eastem lowa. She wanted towel the tre and called 2 ‘couple veneer compas to comme and bid ‘nit. Removing the re would have meant ‘isconnectingpewe lines and some tricky swork to Keep i rom fling on the house ‘None of the companies were interested. “Then che dropped the price and called a Jocal sawmill, The mill ower felled the tree and cut up with his portable saw st about the tine the wood was pulled cit ofthe kiln, we care along locking for Some vainutfor the Desk. he leces were perfect — 16 to 18! wide and no sapwood. "The boards were even stacked in order, ius as they came cut ofthe tree Most oft was about 1 thick, but there ‘were also some 2" thick blanks. Just what [ ‘needed to make some legs for the Desk. Sometimes, things work outright ‘ANEW FACE Mark Willams has joined us a8 an assis fant editor. He has u varied background, Dut most recently he was atechnical writer for the aerospace industry. Impressive. But to me, the important thing is that he's a longsime woodworker. Now he's looking forward to the opportunity to write about his experiences for Woodsmth and ‘ShopNotes. Welcome aboard, Mark. be | Woodsmich No. 92 ALD OOK IN SIDE Contents FEATURES Stand-Up Desk 6 This is more thana desk on tall lege. In onder for the project tofit well into today's homes, we improved on a century-old design when ive built this walract claseie, Dovetail Mortise & Tenon 14 Strength .. in many directions, That's the benefit of using a tenon shaped lke a dovetail. The best thing about the joint is the mating parts are cut on a router table, with just one bit, Picture Frames 17 These frames start out as one piece of wood glued up from 1uutiple parts. So there's fine detail without a lot of small pisces. Maleo makes them easier —and safer —to build, Miter Tips 22 A simple miter ian’t simple. 1 demande accurate setup. Here are some tips we foul helpful. Plus,a jig for quickly setting your miter gauge to cut at exactly 4 Oak Step Stool 24 While building thie stool we took a different approach to making the stair-stepped sides. But it’s not the approach you might expect — it actually eastes very little wood. Gouge Grinding Jig 30 Thi jig, submitted by subscriber Harry DeFuria, allows you to quickly and accurately sharpen any lathe gouge. DEPARTMENTS Tips & Techniques 4 Shop Notes 5 16 Talking Shop 28 Sources soem Picture Frames Oak: Step Stool ‘page 24 No. 92 Woodsmith FROM FELLOW WOODWORKERS Tips & Techniques On my table saw, there ian'ta Wt of distance between the Dla and the far side of the t= ble, This has caused two prob- Temswhen cutting argerpieces. First, lng boars havea ter- dency io fal ff the back ofthe ‘sav before the cut is complete, And second, @ small piece can falloff and jam the motor. ‘To avoid this, | made a %"- guide bar and the motor hous- thick plywood outiced tablethat ing (withthe bladettited to 45°). bolts tothe back of my saw, see To align the outfeed table Fig. 1. The table provides extra _with the table top, [ripped two support for boards and shields spacer blocks to width. These the motor from falling scrap. fillin the space between the ply- ‘The outfced table is mounted wood table and the L-brackets. to the saw with bolts and L- Then, before screwing the brackets. When positioning the plywood in place, cut two [brackets allow for the ip fence grooves forthe miter gauge, see Fig. 2. Note: When cutting the ‘grooves, it's not important that they fit the miter gauge per. fectly. All that really matters is that the are wide tnough and deep enough ore ceive the miter gauge bar asit's pushed beyond the table top. William Alien Brunswick, Georgia [2] Mican be difficult oringa full Sheet ofriywodl alone. Toavoid ‘Gragying a sheet across the shop, Imadeaninexpensive ply ‘wood “skateboard see Fi, 2. ‘My skateboard is made from PLYWOOD “SKATEBOARD” rod, see Fig. 1. A groovein the [3 2xd keeps the plywood in pace. ‘To prevent the skateboard from rolling around as the ply- wood is loaded, I positioned the axle sighily offcenter. a piece of 2x, two 3” utility Ea Lien ‘wheels andalenathofthreaded Vitoria, Britis Columbia 1 “oon Stee we Maer a ‘Yrwidesroove 4 Woodsmith No.92 SANDPAPER CUTTER WA pizza cutter can do more than cut pizza. It can also be used to cut sandpaper. {made a jig that works with an ordinary pizan cutter to cut sheets of sandpaper into smaller pieces Just place a sheet of sandpa- per in the jig. Then roll the cut fer across the sandpaper. A nar- row kerf guides the cutter in a straight line, eliminating the ragged edgestthat tearing or rip- ping can cause. Don Davis Port Orchani, Washington CENTER FINDE! Min Woodismith No. 99, you ‘Fecommended using a compase {for nding the center ofadowel. Thaveamethod that’seasier and mon dowels [use in my shop, ‘see drawing. “The jig is very simple to use. Just push the dowel in the cor rect hole and give it a slight twist, A screw in the ceater of theholeleavesanimpressionon the end of the dowel — indicat. ing the exactcenter, “To begin, frst cut a 1¥o"thick ‘mi can be difficult aligning a pencil mark to sawblade Soto increase the accuracy, [made a Scratch on the top of my table ‘saw that cocresponds to the ‘edge ofthe blade, set Fig. 1. ‘Now, Ijust position the pencil mark drawn oa the workpiece ‘over the scratch before making the cut, see Fig. 2, (Since I use two blades with diferent tooth sets, I made two scratches) ‘Kerry Hogan Belgrade, Montana block of wood to size allowing for the different dowels you want to mark. (I used a short length of 2x4 for this.) Now, using spade bits or Forstner bits that correspond ‘with your dowels, drill a 56" deep hole for each dowel. Here's the tick for making sare the screws are centered in the dowelholes. Use the center. points left behind by the spade ‘or Forsiner bits to locate the shank holes for the screws. Terry Foster Rockford, Mbinois 1] Seep ee oe No. 92 ‘Woodsmith, FEATURE Stand-Up Desk PROJECT The challenge in designing this traditional Desk was coming up with a size that would fit comfortably into a typical home | ve here's a short story behind the design of is Desk. On paper, it started out similar in size t one you might see in a museum of Early American furniture. Thedesign details looked good too — strung joinery and interesting angles. ‘Aller dry asserabling most of the parts forthe desk, I stood back to take a look. Other people wandered by to add their two cents’ worth. A lot of himmnms and chin scratching, Then somedhing ‘unusual happened — everyone agreed. Itsnotthat there was anything wrong with the design, the scale was just too big to fit comfort ably in most homes, Desks lke this were orig ‘ally mage tobe use reception are sion of Bob Cratchit wor Eve ng hard on Christmas rooge’s counting house) Fortunately, I had only dry assembled the Desk so it could come apart and be cut down in size. (Good thing it didn’ start out too small) 10.92 EXPLODED VIEW yore See Foge 13 fer Materials ist 270 Cittng Bag vena | BESS Avwiting desk should have a hard, smooth surface, To achieve this, we used varnish Note: For a perfecily smooth surface, ill the pores ofthe wood with paste wood filler before applying the varnish CLEAN AREA. After sanding to 180grit, 1 ‘moved the desk to aclean area for fishing. ‘Why? Since vamish dries so slowly i your finishing area is dean, there will be Jess dust floating in the ai to settle on the ‘desk The less dus, the smoother the finish. VARNISHES. | used two Ivpes of varnish, ‘Two coats of a high gloss to create a hard ‘surface, and one coat of egushell to lower the gloss. (For more on this, see page 31.) eteach coat cure overnight. (Langer is Detter) Between coats, [ sanded with 400- grit wet-ordry sandpaper After each sanding, take extra care to re move the dust, | used a clean rag followed by two tack cloths — one for the initial wipe down, another fora nal histing. RUBOUTFINISH. After the final coat was dy, T"rubbed oat the finish. [started with, ‘600-grt sandpaper and then moved to 0000 steel wool (Wipe the surface clean and use fresh sandpaper often ) Wodsmith “The legs ofa stané- up. desk must be ‘Sturdy. So Leut them from 194'“thick stock, see Fig. 1. First, rip the legs G.Byiomatchther thickness, see Fig. 1. ‘Then, cutall four to the finished length of ‘the back legs (B). ‘Therront legs wilbe ccutto length later) ORIENTATION. The legs are connected at ‘the top by a series of aprons and rails And theyre cbanected atthe botom by apa of stretchers, refer to Fig. 5 on the facing page. For the strongest connections, all these pieces are joined with mortises and tenons. LAYOUT MOKTISES. To keep track of the Jes — and the mortise locations — I first stood them up in their final assembled posi- tion, see Fig. 1, Then I drew two reference ‘marks on each leg tointicate the limits of a decorative cove, see Fig. 1. Now the mortises can be cut, see Ley Mortises below. LONG MORTISES. I used an end mil bitin the router tabletocutthe long mortises near thetop ofthe legs. Theseare or the aprons, refer to Fig. 5. Note: There's only one long ‘mortise on each front leg. SHORT MOKTISES. Then I switched to the dill press — using the same router bit — 1 2 for the remaining mortises. First, [drilled one short mortise toward the bottom of each leg for a base stretcher, see Fig 5. ‘The last mortises to cut are cut across the inside corners of the front legs only. These ‘mortises are a ile dierent — they run horizontally, see Fig 20, ‘Thea the ends of all the mortises can be squared up wih achisel After that, the top ofthe front legs (A) can Decatto length atan angle, see ig. 2. ‘COVES & CHAMFERS. The last thing to do is rout a decorative cove along the outside edge of cach leg, see Fig. 3. Finally, Irouted 2 "wide chamfer around the bottom end ofeach leg, sae Fig. The long mores on each le are eases to cut on the router table. Rout two on ‘each beck leg and one on exch from leg. The dil press is used agan fo the last por of morises toned the top ofthe fontlegs. | Dri carefuty between thelayout ines. | No.92 APRONS, RAILS & STRETCHERS ‘The legs are just four longsticks until they're connected together. That's the Job of a series of aprons, rls, and stretchers, see Fig. 5. Tegan by euting necting pieves 10 size. Then T cut ten- | ‘ons onthe ends. "APRONS. The Wid 3 pieces to cut are the wo side aprons (©and the back apron (D), see Fig. 3. atls, Next, | cut.a pair of drawer rails (&) tofnished size, see Fig. 5. STRETCHER. The base stretchers (F) thatconncet the legs toward the bottom are different from the aprons and rail. First, all the various con ( they're thicker (I" instead of $419. And they're longer than the side aprons (because they have longer tenons for added strength). ‘TENONS. Afterall the connecting pieces hhave been cut to finished dimensions, cut the tenons on the ends of the drawer rails @), see Fig. 6. HEVELED Star. Now cuta beveled strip, to match the shouider-to-shoulder length ofthe upperral. (Thisstrip so hide ‘agap that shows up between the ral and an- led top after the topis attached.) ‘Next dry assemble the frontieys with the rails in between, see Fig. 7. Then mark the ‘bevel angle on the end oi the beveled strip, ‘see Fig.7. And ip the bevelon the trip (G). MORE TENONS. Now (etons can be cuton the ends of the stretchers (F), see Fig. 8, “Then rabbets can becut on the ends ofall three aprons (C & D) to form tenons, see Addovelail can becuttoactlikea morte and tenon joint. With strength én senerat direc- tions, Anda pleasing eppearance 00. Fig. 9. After that, notch the botwom of the tenons to fit in the mortises. see Fig. 9. DOVETAILMORNSE, Tho last thing to do is rout a dovetail mortise in the middle of each of the stretchers. Note: Refer to page 1 for details on routing dovetail mortises. ioe earn SmETCHER Rae Roe ‘evel Feats x2 NOTE See Page 16 for ing Sore Mortee serra tenon fenered on wicknes of stotcer No. 92 BASE ASSEMBLY ‘There area couple more things todo before the base of the Desk is complete. CUTORE StDEAPKONS. First, the top of the side aprons must be cutoff at an angle ‘othe writing surface of the Desk can ope. “To do this first make a mark 6" trom the back edge ofthe back let inicate the fat area of the aprons, see Fi. 10. Then, ‘draw line from this mark to the froat leg. [Now remove the aprons from the assert biyand cutalong the angied marks, see Fig 11 Teut just outside the line with my band ‘aw, then hand planed up tthe ine. ‘ScREWHOLES. The writing surface of the Desk is atached 10 dhe base with sews {fom below. At the front, the serews come tupthrough holesin the drawer rail, sce Fig. 12, So next remove the upper drawer ral and drill 4 series of countersunk shank hoes, see Fig. 2a. ‘GKOSS STRETCHER. The last piece to cut ‘for the base assembly isthe I"-thick crass stretcher (H), sce Fig. 13. First ip this to the same width as the stretcher (F). Then ‘etitto length soit fits across the mortises ‘Neat, dovetail tenons can be cutto fit the dovetail morisesin the sietchers. (Reserto page 15 for cutting dovetail tenons) ASSEMBLY SEQUENCE. Now, the base of the Desk can begived together. started with thetwoside assemblies then glued the back apron and drawer rails between these. F- nally, I glued the cross stretcher in place. DRAWEI Alarge drawerin the base provides most of the siorage for the Desk. FRONTS BACK. | staried. building the drawer by measuring the drawer opening, ‘The drawer front (Pad back (J) are cut to fit this opening, minas ¥". (For a He? ‘gap all around) sipes. Net, cut the drawer sides (1. First they'reripped tothe samewidthasthe drawer front and back pieces. To figure the length of the drawer sides, first measure from the front edge of the bback leg to the front edge ofthe drawer ral —in my case 20", Now eubtract from this the combined thickness of the drawer front ‘and back 14"), then add the combined Jength of the dovetal pins G4’). Now cut the drawer sides (K) to this fi ished length, see Fig. I. JOINTS. Next, dovetail joints can be ‘outed on all the drawer parts. Shop Note: cused a dovetail jig with a ¥9" dovetail bit to cut the joints in the drawer parts. BOTTOM. Now,cuta groove on the lower inside face ofeach drawer part to hold a 4" plywood drawer bottom, see Figs 14 and Ma. Then the drawer bottom (L) can be Ccutto ft between the grooves, Now the drawer can be glued together ‘with the plywood bottom in place. Drawen BACK (8 id) 10 Woodsmith No. 92 Drawex GRoovES. The drawer slides on ‘maple drawer runners that fit ina groove on ther side of the drawer, refer Fig. 17. To cutthe grooves, used astraight bitin the router table, see Fig. 15. Note: Stop the ‘grooves 114! from the front, see Fig. Ma. RUNNERS. Now cut pair of drawer run ‘ners (Mf) 10 it the grooves in the drawer sides, see Figs. and 16a. The runnersare held in place with screws in counterbored oles. Then screw the runnersto the inside ‘of the side aprons, see Fig. 162 Tors. Finally, to keep the drawer from sliding too far into the opening, a pair of drawer stops can be added. These are sim ply two short blocks cut to ft between the Inside face of the back apron and the inside face of the back legs, see Fig. 16. 6) pees ‘17 TOP ASSEMBLY ‘The top of the Desk consists of two parts: ‘The back section is installed flat, and the srontresisatan angle that is comfortable Jor writing —either while standing up or sitting ona stool. currouexomt. I started the tops by gluing up several narrower boards for ‘each, Note: Use the best looking boards for theslant iop—itsthemostnoticeable piece ‘on the whole project. First, cut the flat top (N) and slant top (O)to the same finished length — "longer than the total width ofthe base, see Fig. 18 'BEVELRIP. I ripped the top pieces to fin- {shed width in two steps. First, [ripped a bevel witha 334° angle on the inside (com- ‘mon edge of each piece, see Fig. 18a ‘Thea ripthe backedge ofthe flat top (N) so the front edge aligns to the point where the side apron starts to slope downward. ‘The back edge should extend 1" beyond the back legs, see Fig. 153. ‘The slant top (Q) can then be ripped to finished wiih the same was, soe Fig, 183. ‘ugar, The next thing to do is cut five narrow cleats (P) for attaching the tops to the base assembly, see Fig. 18. Thea drill series of oversize countersunk shank holes, for the mounting screws. And glue the cleats tothe inside face of each apron. ‘Shop Note:[ attached the cleats litte be- Iowthe upper edge ol the aprons, This way, the tops can be screwed dowa tighily. PENCILREST. Before installing the tops. ccuta narrow pencil stop (Q), see Fig. 19. ‘Then sand a Y!-wide chamfer around the upper and lower edges ofthe top pieces (N, 0), see Fig 19. Also sand a chamfer along the top edges of the pencil stop. Finaly. the wo top pieces can be attached to the base with woodscrews from below. ‘Note: Glue the top pieces together, but don sive them to the aprons. (They must beable to move with changes in humidity) ‘Thenglue on thepencil rest, see Fig. 198. SLANE TOP No. 92 Woodsmith u COMPARTMENT BOX Acompartment box on top of the Desk does two things Fir, it adds storage space totlie Desk. It so helps to ongan- ize small supplice ‘within easy reach of the writing surface. ‘THIN STOCK. In oF der tokeep the com partment box from p ooking too massive, built all the parts from 1"thick stock, ‘Note: lfyoucan' find Vthick walnut plane down 34" thick stock from the same batch ‘used for the base. Start by cutting a case top and bottom (@) and case sides (S) to finished dimen. ious, see Fig. 20, hOOVES, RABRETS, DADOES. Next, to ae- cept a solid wood back (V), Teuta groove toward the back edge ofall our pieces, see Fig. 20a, Note: I sed a stright bi router {0 cital the jon in this case. ‘Then, to hold the top and bottom (R) pieces, uta pair ofrebbetcaeross the inside face ofeach side piece, see Fig. 21. ‘After that cat pair of stopped dadoeson the inside face of the lop/bottom pieces to accept the vertical case dividers, see Fig.22. DIVIDERS. Atthis point the four case parts ‘an be dry assembled and clamped to- gether. Then cur two case dividers (F) to finside the case, see Fig. 2 ‘MORE DADOES. Now the case sides (S) and dividers (1) canberemoved,andadado fatacross each tohold two drawer dividers, see Fig. 22. ‘DRAWER DIVIDERS & CASE ACK With all the dadoes complete, two drawer dividers (0) and a case back (V) can foal be cut {fit in the dadoes and grooves, se Fig. 23. ‘Then the case parts can all be ghied and clamped together. FALSE TOP. Now a false top CW) can be cut to fit on top of the compartment box ‘Note: This is also cut from ¥2"thick stock, ‘but cut it 1" larger in both dimensions than, the box, see Fig. 24 ‘Then, rout a decorative cove around all four sides, see Fig. 24a Finally, the false top can be glucd and clamped onto the compartment box with an, equal overhang all around. ‘Daawers. The last thing to do before at ‘aching the compartment boxto the Deskis, to build drawers to fit inthe openings, see 25, And lke the rest ofthe compartment, the drawers are mate from ¥2"4hick stock. 2 ——— ee Note: used walnut for the drawer fronts (), and hard maple for the drawer backs (9) and sides (2), see Fig. 25. ‘Also note that [cut the drawer fronts and backs 4s" smaller than the width of the Arawer openings. But they're cut to width to ‘match the height of the openings, This way the top edges of each drawer ccan be lightly sanded (or planed) to fit its ‘opening with equal-size gapsaround the top and sides, reer to the photo on page 3. ‘DOVETAIL JOINTS & GROOVE. With all the drawer parts cut to finished dimensions, 1 routed 14" dovetail jeints on the corners Next cuta grooveon each part oaccept a4" plywood drawer bottom, see Fig.29. ‘Then, a drawer bottom (AA) can be cut foreach drawer. And the drawers can be a= sembled and giued up. [ATTACHING TO DESK. Finally, attach the ‘compartment box to the Desi. For this 1 used woodscrews installed from below the desk top, see Figs. 26 and 26a, ‘Note: I completely nished the compart- ‘ment box — top, bottom, inside and out — before permanently screwing it down. (26) Jane | i pare eee CUTTING DIAGRAM MATERIALS A Front tess (2) axe 42% gh B. Back Leos 2) WAX Ae © SdeAerons@) Fax T= 19% D Back Apron(t) —-34x7%-27% E DranerRais(2) 34x 144-27" Base Suetchers(2) 1134-2014 © Beveled Sinp(t) 4x 17-26% H GrossStretcherit) 1x 1%4-28% 1 DranerFront (t) 34x395-26% J DrawerBack()) — 14x3%4-26% K Dranersdes2) 4x 34-19% L OrawerBotiom (1) V4 ply- 1914 x25%% M Drawer Runnes(2) %4x1-18% N Fat Too (1) xT 31 © Sant Top (1) xno 31 P Cleat %x ¥a- 80 rgh @ Ferci stop(1) x30 R CaseTepRott 2) 4x 6)5-29%4 $ CaseSides 2) %x6%4-5 1 CaseDvides(2)4x5% 4 U DronerDuiders(2) 14x 594- 94 Y CaseBack (1) Wx Aha 2914 W Fale Top) BxTe- 3 X CaseDrawerFr(é) V4 x1%4-81%4¢ Y CaseDrawerBk(3). 4x 1%- 8°46 1. Case Drawer Stes (@) 14x 144-5 ‘AA Case Drawer Bott (4) 4 ply-5x8%e SUPPLIES {2} 25mm Sold Brass Drewer Knobs (w s-ews) (4) 14mm Sold Brass Drawer Knods (wr screws) Wee xa x8" (1.2 8d Fe) Hard Maple 4° (25 Sq fe) Hard Mople 14K 5" 96° (6.7 Bl Fe) Walnut Lal Ll} (20) #8 x 114" Fh Woodscrews | (yas 114" Bh Woodscrews 16) 8 «17 Rn Woodscrews | {We x8" x 56° (5.3 Be Ft) Walrat ra ue Ae 16° x 96" (4.0.4. Ft) Walrut | OE | No. 92 B WOODWORKING TECHNIQUE Dovetail Mortise & Tenon ‘There must be forty ways 10 join two boards atarightangle. Acouple ofthe ‘strongest joints are a mortise and tenon and a dovetail. But as the de- ‘sign of the Standup Desk on page 6 ‘was underway, [knew there wasa dif ferent joint needed for connecting the croxsstretchertotheehase stretchers ‘The photo atrght shows the result, adovetal mortise and enon, The tenon part ofthe joint works ike an ordinary tenon, only beter: Because ofits dove- tailshape, the enon fis into the mortise Tike the couplers on a freight isin. So there's mechanical strength and addi tional strength after the joints glued. AUNCH. One of the most impor. tant parts ofthis dovetail mortise and tenon Joint is the “haunch" at the bottom of the tenon, see photo. It's what makes the joint different srom an ordinary sliding dovetail THE MORTISE {Leut both parts ofthe dovetail mortise and tenon joint on the router table. To rout the mortise, I use a two-piece guide. This is simply a piece of plywood with 3 runner ssrewed to the front, see photo at right SETUP. With the workpiece cut to fin Ishedlength and width, firs raise the router bit to the desired height (usually half the thickness of the workpiece), sce Step 1 Next, because the doveiail mortise (on the Stand-up Desk) iswider than a%4" dove. tail bit, the mortise must be cut in two passes. Also, forthe siretchers on the Desk, the mortise is centered on the workpiece ‘Todothis, fret mark hecenter ofthereuter bit on the guide. Then mark the center ofthe Vide Peat fuer ie hal te thhckness Of the workpee. Then mark center ofthe workpiece and center of the bit ‘The haunch is made by cutting off the bot- tom half ofthe tenon, This shoulder of the tenon thencan restona"shelatthebotiom workpiece, {he ig with the mks cfet ‘Step 1. Now attach the piece This setupis forthefirsteut. For the sec fond cut, the workpiece and the fig will be shifted by inserting a spacer strip) Before making the first cut, slide the workpiece and the ig up to the router bit and make one more mark — this time on the table — to indicate the desired length of the mortise, see Step. (Thisisa"stop" mark) SPACER STRIP. After making the first cut Ythick spacer strip is inserted between he router table and the runner on the j see Step?. This movesthe workpiece forthe second pass. So the mortise iseut wider, and ‘centered on the workpiece To center the mortze on the workpiece, the second cut is mace wih a Ye"-thick shim betusen the router fableand therunner ‘So why the haunch? One reason — to keep the tenon from sliding out the bbotiom of the mortise. This is espe Cially important for the stretcher on the base of the Stand-up Deck. If the sue were to fal ona througi siding dovetail joint, this stretcher could drop out irom between the rails. THE SEQUENCE. I follow the same | sequence for cutting a dovetail mor- | tiseandtenonjointasl doforaregular ‘mortise and tenon joint First I cut the ‘mortise, then I cut the fenon to fit the mortise perfectly. ‘TESTCUTS, As with any joint (espe- ally one that will be visible after i's asserubled), I don't star cutting on the actual warkpicce. Instead, L make a se- ‘es of test cuts on scrap wood first. This ‘way, the parts of the joint should ft together tighily and look good, to. Ths domealapet Mev Mop reer een el ofa pod guide workvece 3 Ae lrg te scord 2 sre oe the bottom of the mortse wih a chisel ald chal at an angie to ckan out the comers 14 ‘Woexismith, No. 92 THE TENON ‘The whole secret to cutinga perfect dove tal tenon isholding the workpiece straight tap and down while t passes over the router Di. And todo ths! se another ig. Thisone is two pieces of scrap screwed together at Fight angles, see Step “Thehorizontal part therunnen ofthe jx, rides on the router table fence, and the ver- Gcal part (the upright) supports the work- piece and prevents chipout. Note: The end of the workpiece must be perfec fat on the router table when it's clamped othe jig ROUTER IT, The router bit stays at the ‘same heights when cttingthe mortise. And to cutthe joint property the bit must be par tially buried inthe router fence, see Step 5. SSNEAKING UP. For the best fit in the mor- tise, | cut the tenon in several steps. (The best itiswhen the tenon lies partway into the mortise but needs to be tapped the rest ‘of the way in.) First, I cut the tenon a bit “fa.” Then, move the fence alittle away from the bit to Ajigand clamp hold the wonkpiccs while the | ‘sacak upon the exact thickness, ee Step 6 enon ist with the earne dovetail bit Q, Teja frcutng teteronrastwopars One rides ihe router table fence. The other holes workpiece square to the table, FITTING THE TENON ‘Thelastpart ofa dovetail mortiseandtenon, join is cutting the haunch. Buttherearen't any special jigs needed — just a pencil and back saw. FIF& MARK. In order to determine where tocut off the tenon, [firs slid the tenon into the mortise upside dau, see Step 7. When itt fully seated, draw a pencil ine across the end of te tenon. ‘Thencutacross the end of the tenon, just outside the mark (toward the waste side), ‘see Step 8, After that, make a second cut 15 J reer bit must be ued inthe Tort the second shouts st undo fence. Then the piece is amped to the ©) the workpiece and turn taround For the Jia. Side plece and gto out first shoulder. best fit move ferxe andirepeat steps Sand 6. along the shoulder ofthe tenon intersecting the first cut, see Step 9. (Again, make this ‘cut alte fa.) ‘TRIM & INSTALL. Finally, used a chisel to shave the sides of both saw cuts. Ths is the way to get the best fitinggjoint —irimatite, test theft, thea trima litle more. Finally, glue can be spread on the tenon. ‘Shop Note: To avoida mess, apply just a tle glue along the buried (inside) cheeks of the tenon, Then the joint can be lightly Aftera haimch hae heen cut on the tenon, tapped together, see photo. the joint can be glued and assernbled. = oe ‘Mote: Use cet ocean upc for bet insert the tenon — upside down — ‘completely in the mortse. Then draw 2 pene miark across the end ofthe tenon. No. 92 G Blom iiehaunch use hand saivio Tre second so cut completes the at on waste sie of the mark. Keep the F haunch. Finally for the best ft both cuts sau straght ipanddovnardstop at shculler may needto be ightyshaved with a chisel ‘Woodsmith, 15 SOME TIPS FROM OUR SHOP Shop Notes TRUING YOUR TRUNNION Vien you rip or erosseut on ‘table sav. the blade should be parallel with the miter gauge bt. Why? 4s wood moves through the cut, pressure irom a maligned blade tends to posh the wood to the side. The greater the misalignment the freater the pressure. This can throw off critical cuts lke the miters on page 22. ‘CHECK BLADE. To check that the blade is paral! to the sit, unplug the saw and raise the blade up all the way. With a felt tip marker, mark one of the teeth. Now rotate this tooth to the front of the insert plate and measure the distance from the tooth to the slot, see Fig. ‘Affer measuring the distance at the front, rotate the marked tooth to the rear of the insert plate and measure again, The distance should be the same. If ‘ol, it's time to adjust your saw. “TRUNNION, Toadjustthesaw, thetrunnion assembly has tobe shifted in relation to the table. (The trunnion is the heavy cast- ing mounted under the table that holds the blade.) Note: On ccabinettype saws, its the table ‘that has fo be shifted Unfortunately, there isn’t a quick or easy way 10 do this, First, loosen the mounting bolts, see Fig. 2. Next, you need to “convine” the trunnion 10 ‘move. Tusea block of wood and «hammer, se Fig. 3. tight take a few good whacks.) Nov, retighten the bolts and check if the blade and slo are parallel. Resightening the bolts may move the trunnion ‘back {0 where it started (almost lke it hhasa memory of ts own). lf this fs the case, “overshoot” the ad- jnsiment before resightening ‘This should compensate forthe ‘unwanted movement. Safety Note: Unplug saw before making these adjustments FENCE ADJUSTMENT Mow doyou knowifafenceon router table hasbeen moved a smidgen? Is hard to measure with a ruler. And guessing can end up becoming a game oftrial and error. So to get around this, | give myself a reference mark to eyeball off of when moving the fence a small amount, If the fence is going to be moved airay from the bit, draw «fine pencil mark on the router lable topright along the front of the fence, see Fig. fits going, to be moved tawards the bit, ‘drawthemark behind the fence. When the fenceis moved, the mark gives your eye a reference point indicating how much the fence has actually moved. CUTTING ANGLES Wit can be awkward cutting an angle across a glued up panel or a sheet of plywood on the table saw. So when I cut the sloped back oa the Oak Step Stool (page 24). I decided to use a ‘handheld router with aush rien bit rather than the table saw. ‘To cut the sloped back, first Jay out the eut fine. Then, using a sabre saw, cutto within a Vig! of the line, (This reduces the amount of work for the router). Next, clamp a straight edge on the layout ine, Then flip the panel over, see drawing: Now, with the flush trim bit set so the bearing rides against the straightedge, clean up the edge of the panel, sce detail Woodsmith No. 92 WEEKEND PROJECTS Picture Frames These picture frames don’t require a lot of tiny pieces. They start out as wide blanks, so they're easy and safe to build. I 'o my way of thinking, a small picture frame should be a quick, easy project tobuild.Butat fist glance, these two frames may not look that simple Both frames look Uke they were assem. bled with lois oftiny pieces or blacks, which might mean alot of imeconsurning Setups. But that's not how they're ma I Actually, both frames follow the same | general procedure, and it's fairly simple. | The difficult partis seeing just how the in- | itil workpieces become fnished picture} frames. Here's a quick overv Each frame is builtin three basic steps, see the photos below. First, pieces of differ. | types of wood are glued into a blank. Then frame pieces are ripped from the blank like strips of con. Finally, the pie are mitered and assembled into a frame Design Note: These picture frames are designed te accept ctandard photos with recut mats (See Sources, page 31). The langer Grid Work Frame, shown on page 18, willed an 810 matted photo, Teamaller Accent Strip Frame, on page 20, will hold a 5x7 matted photo, | "To highlight the details in cach frame, 1 chose woods with contrasting colors. One frame uses mostly cherry with maple rim. The other uses more maple than cherry. ae THREE BASIC STEPS Step 1. Both formes folow the same bask Step 2. After the blank has been glued up its Step 3, kon al tats lftistomiterboth ends Procedure, Fst a Wide, thick fame blank is Npped into thin sts. When Iyig fat. these of each of the ame pieces ard then assemble (led up from several thinner bosrc 'sttps become the peces ofthe frame, . No. 92 Woodsmith 7 GRID WORK PICTURE FRAME tiny squares on this frame look Hike in- vidual blocks. Actually, they're strips of ‘wood with evenly-spaced dadoes (called éentil molding). Lcut the dentil profile on the router table, using.a simple indexing (or box joint jig, see box on the next page. To build the frame, I prepared 2 single blank first. Later, the four picees of the frame will be ripped from this blank. This ‘way, al the pieces end up identical FRAME BLANK aminated the blank forthe frame from two piccesof ¥«"thick cherry and a thin stip of maple. But the two cherry pieces start out asoneextrawide piece, see Fig. 1 Thi way the dentil profile is cut on one piece only. ROUTDENTILS, After the piece fs cut to suze, thenext sep is tact the dent profile. {iere's where you" nced the indexing jg) Rout 34’ x ¥4" dentils on the cherry piece, see Fig. 1a. Then rip it into two halves. LAMINATE BLANKS. Next, plane and cuta ‘thick strip of maple to ‘iz, see Fig. 2 ‘Then giue it between the pieces of chery. Shop Tip: Avoid using too much gle — ‘you dont Want to clean upa lot of excess be- tween the tiny squares. To prevent this, I dabbed the glue on with a Qtip and applied ‘X10 the dentil molding only. KEY. To make sure the dent profiles were aligned when assembling the blank, 1 used a small alignment key cut from apiece of serap, see Fig. 2. This key should ft snug between the dentils and allow the cherry pieces to fully contact the maple strip. When the glue dries rip the blank into ¥ thick frame picces, see Fig. 3. (Cut five — there's an extra just 10 be safe.) ROUTGROOVES. Next o-add another ele- ment to the design, I decided to inact the dentils. To do this, { routed two grooves through the dentil molding, see Fig 4 First mounted 314" straight bit high inthe router table, se Fig.4. Thenl set the router table fence so the inside of the bit aligned withthe maple ip. ‘Now, rout the first groove. Then to rout the second, all you have to dois rotate the piece end forend because the maple stripis ‘entered between the two pieces of cherry, ‘Check the grooves. there are slivers of the cherry still visible on the maple, then iudge the fence and repeat the cuts, ‘TRIM OUTSIDE EDGE. There is one fin step to creating the design. | thought ‘would look best if the outside piece of cherry was a bit narrower. So [trimmed it to leave the face V4 wide, see Fig. 5 ‘CUTRABBETS. Before mitering, routed 2 Std!swiderabbet on theback. inside edgeof cach piece, see Fig. 6. This wil hold the glass, mat, and backing materials. The epth of the rabbet depends on the thick- ness of the materials you're goingrto use, FRAME ASSEMBLY Allthat’s leftisto assemble the frame. First, ‘cut a45° miter on one end of each piece. To endl up with a full opening at each corner, the miter should div the deatils exactly ‘Next, miter the second end tothe proper length, see Fig. 7. Design Note: To fit a ‘standard 11x14 mat into the rabbets in the frame, you may need to trimthe mat alite, ‘Note: For some tis on setting up to cut miters, se the artic on page 1 ery rt ‘Deni olang Nae Denti Mating profile 18 No. 92 | ASSEMBLE FRAME. Lassembled the frame in two steps. iret, I glued the pieces into two hares, using’ hand pressure. Then I joined the two halves with a band clamp. ‘Shop Tip: When ghiing end grain to-end ‘gran, T seal the wood first with an iit light layer of giue. When i’s dry. I apply ‘more glue and assemble the joint FaNsit I'sbesito finish the frame before adding any hardware. To do this Tapplied a ‘couple coats of wiping varnish (ike Royal Finish, see Sources, page 31). Shop Tip Ifyou havea large enough con- tainer (and plesty of wiping varnish). you «au soak dhe rae. Tis way, the fins gets inallthe litle square openings. Toallowthe varnish torunoff,hang the frameup to dry. ‘TurewmuTrONs. To keep the glass, mt, and backing materials in plice, | nailed ight tumbuttons to the back, sce Fig. 70. (For Sources, see page 31.) To prevent the wood from spiting. predrill the holes. 1 used a bead wath ts head cutoffasa dil bit. HANGER & PROF SFICK. Next, to hang the frame, centered a saw tooth hanger onthe back ofthe frame, se Fig. 7, Ifyou want io set the frame on adesk, cut ‘prop stick from a piece of scrap lke the ‘one show for the Accent Strip Frame. (Re fer to Fig. 11a, page 21.) For the prop stick tofit it should be Vix. 1 Borate i, fst camp 0 free to the miter gauge. Then rout ae" -high notch in the fence with a 4" straight bit 2) fen, cat an indexing pan 10 ft the notch, Sand edges so workpiece can bo seton and off easiy. Then glue pin in place. ap 1S NO move tne fence so the Bt s from the pin. (Use a spacer the same with 2s the pin) Then reclamp the fence. With the fence stil clamped in place, hil pilot holes and screw the fence to the miter gauge. Then raise the bit 14" high. 5 Bt cents oy the werkpiece face down, keeping t tight against the ferce and pin. Cut the frst dado (dent). Place the dedo (ust cui) on the index- ing pin and make another pass. Repeat this process along the length of the board. | J No.92 Woodsmith 19. ACCENT STRIP PICTURE FRAME This frame is like a club sandwich. Three pidoes of maple act as the bread around thin cherry accent pieces. Like tomatoes, these ‘accent piecescan slide around —especially when glue is added. So the challenge is keeping ever ythingaligned perfectly. To do this, Icut shallow dadoes and rabbetsin the pisces of maple to hold the cherry accents. ‘The frame is built from two blanks, One for the long sides (13" long). Another for the short sides (11° long). Each frame blanks {ghted up with three pieces of maple, plusthe Cherry accent pieces, refer to Fig. 7. MAPLE PIPCES. Start by planing or cut: ting each piece of maple to its proper thick- ‘ess, See Fig. 1. Then cut the piecesto width and length. Next, since all the pieces of the frame are symmetrical, L marked a center: line on each. (Many of the measurements will be marle from these marks), RoUTDADOES. Now, shallow dadoes can becuton the faces of the maple pieces. The easiest way to do this is with a dado biade. Butmost dato blades don't cut perfectly at bottomed dadoes. So instead. | used the router table and the miter gauge. Note: To make identical cuts easier, 1 added an auniliary fence to the miter gauge and used a stop block, see Fig. 2 ‘Each piece tas two Yy"deep dadoes cut near the center. see Fig. 2a. Because they're measured off the center of the workpiece, you only need toset the stop block once. AF ter routing the frst dado, simply rotate the ‘workpiece ond forend and repeat tho cut. ‘Note: Since the middle piece of maple in ‘ach blank is sandwiched between the ‘other two, rout dadoes (and rabbets) on ath faces of the middle pieces, see Fig. 1. ROUTRABBETS. When the dadoes have been cut in both sets of maple pieces, cut wide rabbets on the ends, see Fig.3, These rabbets are cul the same way as the dadoes, ‘except with a series of passes, see Fig. 3a. ‘cue pieces. With the pieceso/ maple ‘complete, Imade two ¥¢thick blanks forall the cherry accent pieces, see Fig. 4 ‘Shop Tip: Iran into abit ofa problem with the accents near the center, see Fig. 32. ‘They/re co small’ hard to tell whichis the faceand whichis he elge. Tohelp keep the faces always pointed in the same direction, {marked across the face ofeach Blank with a pencil see Fig 4 Keep the markson each accent pce face up during assembly To begin, cat the accent pieces 1 Bt the center dades, see Fig. 5. To do this aceu- rately. Tcutatea ice froma piece of scrap. ‘Whenitfitthedago,Lripped a sup offeach blank Then cut them te length 20 No. 92 With the lettover pieces of cherry, Ieut the sccent pices forthe rabbets, see Fig. 6. ASSEMBLE BLANKS. When all the accent pieces were cut, I glued up the two blanks for the fame, sve Fig. 7. But dont use too auch glue, It hard t remove the excess inthe tiny spaces around the accent pieves. Noto offset allthecherry accent pieces none side ofeach frame blank, see Fig. 7a. This way there's one straight edge 10 set aginst the fence when ripping, see Fig. 83. When the glue is dry, shave ene edge of cach frame blank on the table saw to get a nice, clean edge. see Fig. 8 ‘up FRAME pieces. Then rip each blank intothree 1h rame pieces, see Fig. 9. (lout three from each biank so there would be a couple extra pieces — justin ease) Next, before cutting the miters, routed a Ye-wide rebbet along the back, inside fedge ofeach piece to hold the gas, mat, and backing iteriis, see Fig. 10. The depth ofthe rabbet should match the thick- nets ofthe materials you're going to use. FRAME ASSEMBLY ‘The blanks are now ready tobe mitered into afame, see Fig. 11. These miter cuts arent typical oreasy. Since the pieces are symmet- rica, the euts must be measured from the ‘enter of each piece, see Fig. Nove: This frames designed tohold a precut 8x10 mat. ASSEMELE FRAME. To gle up the frame, first L assembled the pieces into two halves. just using hand pressure. Then [joined the hhalves with a band damp, Shop Tip: When gluing end grain to end sain, I use a doublegluing technique to seal the poresof the wood, First, apply ghue to both ends of each piece and fet it dry. ‘Then add more glueand assemble thejoint. PROPSHCK. The frame is almost com plete, butt nceds something to keep itfrom faling over. You nigh! beable to finda spe- ‘ial backing board. Buta prop stick made from scrap works just as well, see Fig. 11b. ‘Cut the stick to fit the opening between the ulrsneeeiecee, atten pei: lank. It's much safer wien ripping) FINSH. Now the picture frame is ready to bbe finished. For a natural wood look, Yap- plicd a couple of coats of wiping varnish {ike Roya Finish, See Sources, page 31). Shop Tip: To cover the tiny openings ‘evenly, you can soak te frame. To do this, Yyou'l need a large container and plenty of ‘wiping varnish. Hang the fame up to dry to allow the varnish o run off i TURNEUTTONS. Finally, tokeep the glass, ‘mat, and backing materiais in place, | nailed six tumbuttons to the back, see Fig, 1a (orSourees, see page 31.) Since the frame Pieces are narrow, Ipredrilled the holes to prevent the brads from splting the wood. No. 92 a TOOL TECHNIQUES Mitering Tips Aframe wih ight mitersiseasy to make — intheory. “hast cut a45"angle on both ends ofeach workpiece. And make sure opposite pieces re the same length.” But, cutting ex act 45"anglesand pieces precisely the sane fength ist quite so simple I suppose if had a power miter saw with positive stops, laser beams and whistles the Initer wouldn't be a problem. But my tr ble saw the uit requires accurate setups. “There are'a couple steps that are easy to ‘overlook. 1 always start with aclean, sharp saw blade. And the blade mast be parallel with the miter gauge slots and square to the table. (For more on this, ee page 16.) ‘That's just the begining. On these two pages, youll ind some ther ips! use o get both the exact angle and the right lenath. (One other thing. To eliminate alot ofthe ‘jig to set the miter gauge to 45° quickly and accurately. ‘Geethe boxatthebottom ofthenext page) MITER GAUGE TUNE-UP earned long ago that most miter gauges ‘canusea good tuneup toimprove accuracy. ‘When culling miters, its. necessity. MODIFYING THE RUNNER Istartby checkingifthe runneron ther ‘gauge fis the siot on the table saw, see Fig. Lif surprising how mich sideto-sideplay terecan be. And aloose fitcan change the angle, ruining the accuracy of the setup. “To widen the runner, [use a punch, see Fig. 2. The punch creates tiny dimples with raised areas. To fit the runner to the slot, dimple tina mumber of spots. Note: Ifit be comes too wide, file itdown abit. Another problem with miter gauges isthe face can be too small. t might not give ade- quate support as the workpiece is pushed through the saw blade. AUXILARY FENCE. For more support, { add an auxiliary fence, see Fig. 3. You can ‘use solid wood or plywood, but it must be ‘Straight and of consistent thickness. ‘The auxilary fence luseextends past the Diade, This way, reduces chipout. And the ‘kerf from the Biade can help when irinsgup ‘cut. One caution: Ifthe fave ofthe fence is ‘angled away from the blade, the cutoff ‘ece will be trappedl and can Kick back. ‘SANDPAPER With miters, the piece can side slightly along the angled fence as tie ‘cutis being made. This prevents a clean, ssquarecut. To helpsecuretthe piece, Tattach adhesivebacked sandpaper to the fence to “grab the piece, see Fig 3. ‘STOP BLOCK. [also secure the workpiece witha stop block, see Fig. 4. For the first mi ter, Tuse the square end of the biock. For the second miter, I flip the block around. ‘This end ismitered to 45% so iteontacts the entire edge ofthe piece and protectsthe tip, ‘of the miter, see Fig. 4a. n ‘Woodsmith, SETTING THE MITER GAUGE ‘After the miter gauge is tuned up, Iset the ‘angle. Unfortunately. thiscan involve ate abitof tral and error. SEFANGLE. To rviimize any hassle, 1 don'tuse the degree markingsoa the gage to set the angle — the lines are too thick. Instead, use an adjustable triangle with hurine markings see Fi. 5. (They'reavall- ableatart supply stores.) When using an ad- justable triangle, be sure is not resting against the teeth on the blade. This can ehange the angle significantly GHBCKANGLE, Afr theangleisset, don't assume thal tspertect. Test by mitening 2 couple of scraps and checking them for Scquare, see Fig. 6. (Note: The wider the test, piece, the easier itis to see any error.) ‘ou probably wort get a erie 45° angle thedrettime. Ard iguring out which way to adjustthe ner gauge requiressome me tal gymnastics. It’s easy to move it the ‘rong way and make the pap even wider. tkaorvr To deterne which way 1 Tolate the miter gauge. I mark the pieces where the jit i touching, ece dele Fig. 7. Then, Lads the mater pauge 90 either the toe or heel is trimmed, see Fig. 7. ‘Once the miter gauge is close to 45° it's very eaytooneradstandendup withthe opposite error. If the angle is just shy of be- Seperate eer gage in |, See photo box at right. ‘I said, setting the angierequiresa lot sftralanderrr To get around tis the next time, | built a simple setup jig, see below. the angle ofthe miter gaugea foe loon ore) ercee hee thoausiliary fence in place. Then slip Baying card between the fence and the miter gauge. Now retightn the screw. iz ‘a. me § + Box Te Eli ek Instead of resetting and readjusting the ‘iter gauge each time Iwanttocut miters, Tbuiltajig to setthe miter gauge to exactly 45° every time. The igi simple, Butit re- ‘quires very accurate construction. ‘cuear. The jg consists of a base and a ‘tiangular cleat, see Fig. 1. First, cut an 8" Now, set Your miter gauge to ezactiy 45%, a8 shown above, Then use the guage to cut the cleat to forma triangle _ BASE, Next, cut the plywood base and rip two grooves ia i, see Fig. 2. These should be just wide and deep enough to hold the runner on your miter gauge edge of the base against the fence. sseMmLY. Now, with the miter gauge sill set at 49°, set the miter gauge runes imone ofthe grooves, see Fig. 3. lamp the leat hush against the miter gauge. Then, screw the cleat tothe base. Because the corner ofthe cleat is 90°, ees ee a ee ne eee fea ues See eaeneee Wy 2} fog, cemenszessneme /} | 3 Fo otto ie) ey LI No.92 Woodsmith WEEKEND FPROJECW Oak Step Stool > One way to build the side panels for this stool is to glue up the panels first and then cut the stair-stepped profiles. | took a different approach. he biggest challenge to building this (Oak Step Stoo! was figuring outa way ‘odo it without ending up with alot of wast. My first thought was to lay out both side panels on one oversized, glued-up blank (withthe side panel profiles Hitting together two large paoces from «jigsaw puzzle). ‘Then T was going to rough out both side panels with a sabre saw. And cut the final profiles with a band caw. Afier thinking about this, I decided ‘agains it Itwould work. But i really wasa’t the best approach. It would be alarge bank to glue up and plane or sand fat. And T ‘wasn’ interested in wrestling with a work- piece this size on the band saw: Besides, it can be dificult following layout lines on such a large piece. So instead, I giued up two separate pan- cs, Each bult up from three boards of it ferent lengths — with most of the detail work already done. (Ieut an Sshaped pro- file oneach board before gluingthemup, re fer to Fig. 2 on the next page.) This elimi. nated the wrestling match. And it reduced the waste signilicantl. ‘After the side panels were glued up.itwas just a matter of trimming them to length, Cutting an arch to create feet, and angling the back edge of each panel so the back of the stool wouldn't bump into a wall ‘Once the sides were complete,all Thadto do was cut the treads, hand, and stretcher, MATERIALS A Tall side Feces 2) x92 rah. B Middle Side Peces(2).... %4x6-19 9h © Short Sle Reces 2) xB-10 moh D Hande(), x46 CUTTING DIAGRAM Tats Tine Steer (i) nixa-rie| | TEMPLATE (16) 90x11 Mviondsers ce Grain Phage 24 ‘Woodsmith, No. 92 ‘To build the stair-stepped sides, I began by cutting the three side pieces (A, B, C) for each panel to finished width and rough septic static for all the parts of this project) After cutting the pieces to rough length, Joie ee in the finished panel. PROFILE WORK. One interesting design cement along the front edge of the sides. I cut this profile in each side piece before gluing the meneame Se ee the same, I made a template from V4" Ma- sonite, see Template on previous page. ‘The easiest way to position the template isto draw alignment marks on cach board, see Fig. 1. Note: The location of the align- eens ie Neat, trace the profile on each piece, see Fig. 1a. Then cut and sand them smooth. eee ‘Only sand within 1" of the alignment mark, not below it, The edge of the board below the ine will become part of the joint line in eecrerale a tearee ‘not end up with a tight give joint. ee ese ready to be glued up. RRR a er tanpie the side panels— even though they look a lit- cone eee dium-ength and short-length side pieces to the alignment marks, see Fig. 2. ees prepa peeri ea ceed eens owes ! if “a rT ue soe = ich ° "ice ont Pree Ries n oe oe ee 10. rot ‘Atcrthepanelsharebeen allowed ody, cach pand, making the ancl mirror im ‘cutthemto finished length, cutting the bot. tom edge only. Then sand them smooth. ‘STRETCHER HOLES. The next s}-pisto ‘out and drill counterbored holes for a ‘stretcher that wil he added later, see Fig. 2 (and refer to Fig. 10 on page 27). I jd this ‘now while there was stilla ‘tw measure off of. (A sloped back iscut later along the back edge, see Fig, 3.) ‘Note: When driling the holes, the coun- terbores are drilled on the onteide face of sees ofeach oer, see Fig. 25 ‘Then ly cat algnment nex forthe stretcher, sce Fig 3 "ARCHED Perr € SLOPING RACK. Once the hols are dled, ay out and cat sma crete ect To doa Ina aban ‘okeepitleel | buted a exten Hinbbckupagtine the botomedgeotthe pan seo Fig. 3. ‘Now the sloping back a well as radios onthe opeorner canbe bid ot an ut. 2 ‘With the sidepanels complete thenextstep isto build ahandle-and two treads, All three pieces are similar. There are holes for ‘serews 80 each piece can be attached to the sile panels. And stopped dadoes to help leck all the parts together during assembly, Syma To ke he tends and treads (E) first cut three pieces o ‘stock to finished dimensions, see Fig. 4 “Then, cut asiot inthe handle. To do thi, [died a series of holes using 2 1i('dia. Forstner bit, see Fig. 5. (f you don'(owna 1¥4"4ia, Forstner bit, you could ‘cutout the slot with a sabre sw) Next, sand the slot smooth. | used a Ye dia. deumsander mounted inthe drillpress, (ater. | roundel over the edges) SToPPEDDADOES. To help lock all the paris ofthe stool together, Icuttwo stopped dadoes on the back side ofthe handle and the bottom side of each tread, see Fig. 6 ‘The dadoes are cut to width to match the thickness of the side panels. Since [already had an auxiliary fence on the del press, I decided to use the drill ‘ress and Forstner bit to cut the stopped dadoes as wel. Shop Note: You could use a 34"dia. Forstner bit here, but ater my panels were sanded, they coded up slightly ess than "4° thick, So Tused a ¥'-da, Forsinerbitclea- ing out each dado with two rows of holes. wiles tctecaan Sees eee for the screws. I drilled the holes in two ‘steps. Note: These holes are different dis- Sees ecceceeccs and bottom edges ofthe handle, see Fig.4a. First, drill counterbores for plugs, cen- oe ee ee ee me anata ieceseeete anemones Soreness, aneeromeeet leftin the counterbore to center the bit, RULLNOSE ENCES. Now a bullnose profile ‘can be routed on the treads and handle. To dothis, Lused therouter table with ¥4"-dia. ‘rouncover bit, see Figs. 7 and 7a. Note: Only three edges on each piece get routed. Mheback edge ofthe treads remains ‘Square so they can butt up tight against the sides. And the botiom edge of the handle ‘isn't routed either because I wanted it to look similar tothe treads. ‘Once the profilesarerouted, do the same ‘on the inside of the handle (using the same setup), see Fig. & o) No. 92 STRETCHER & ASSEMBLY The last part of the stool to make is the stretcher. Butbeforeit'scut to size, Lasers bled the other parts. This way, the stretcher can he cut oft the sto ASSEMBLY. There are a couple of impor tant things to check for when assembling the stool First, the backs of the treads must betight agains! the side panels. And second, the dadoes must be fully seated on the side panels, see Fig 9 To do this, you may want to jury-rig some kind of camping system to hold the pieces together while you're drilling and screwing: But it might be easier, and quicker, for you 1 find someone to give you a hand. (And I don’t mean a round of applanse.) ‘STRETCHER. After you've screwed the ‘reads (E) andhandle (D) to thesidepanels, the steolean be measured for the stretcher. The key to cutting the siretcher to the correct length is to measure between the side panels near the handle, see Fig. 10. Of you measire snywhere else and the sides aren't perfectly parallel, you will end upeut- tng te sretcher to the wrong length) ‘Ater the stretcher (F)iseut 0 7, rat a bullnose profie alo the top edge, refer io Fig. jan the previous page. “Then place the stretcher between the side panels. The piece must fe within the layout ines that were drawn eae. referto Fig 3a page 2, Once the setcher is positioned, add @ ‘clamp across the back of the stool to hold the stretcher in place, see Fig. 10. Recheck the otelcher’stlgament, just to be eure Then, cil and stew the sicher wo the panels ‘nally, to complete the project, plug all the screw holes with 4@"-dia. plugs, see box at right Thon vim the plugy flush. To do this, Luse a sharp chisel, working my way around each plug. Now the Gak Step Stool isreadyforafinish, se box below ea) Oo % A face grain plug (eft) wil be nearly ‘invisible once the project is stained. An end grain plug (right), will soak up more stain and look darker than the surrounding wood. (Ens Red cak Jooks good with a natural fish ‘Bat abo fike how it ooks with asian. STAINING, Before staining the stool, 1 sanded it with 180-grt sandpaper. Then, to bring out the gran, stained theentire soo! ‘with, two coats of Minwax Early American, ‘see Sources on pate 3 ‘Alte the frst coat is wiped on, allow itto ‘sitforabout 15 minutes. This givesthe sain a chance fo soak inio the wood. Then, with a clean rag lightly dampened with mineral Spins, redisirbute the stain from the darker areas othe lighter areas. After the first coat of stain dries ( allowed ‘tte dry 24 hours). wipe on the second coat in the same manner. isisHcoar Wik the second coat of stain thoroushiy dy, brushed on acoa of Polyurethane (Clear satin). The following day, | lightly sanded the entire stool with 600-grit sandpaper beiore brushing on an- other coat of polyurethane. Salty Nate: Whenceening this Oak Step Stoo avoid using furnitre polish or fur Avgtinn yon apply a. sain, wipe (or ‘tare wax. You don't want the treads to be brush) with the grain of the wood. And if slippery when you're standing on the stool. you want a richer colar, apply beo coats. No. 92 ‘Woodsmith a COMMENTS & QUESTIONS Talking Shop Tm planning 0 build the Se ‘ret Bix from issue No. 83 of Woodsmith, You say in the ar- ticle on building the project that there's only «for board feet of harivovod nesied. Since you don’t show a cutting dia- (gram, Twas wondering whats the best way to draw one. The parts ofthe boz are ¥', "and 44" thick. What's the most efficient way to get all “of these parts from one board? Jim Simon Omaa, Nebraska To create a cutting diagram from a lst of parts, you have to do some sorting and shuffing. (Like sorting a deck of cards by ‘suit) Ido it in three steps, (This is the procedure follow for any project, not just the Secret Box.) LST BY THICKNESS First, go through the Materials, List and make a separate lst of all the parts by thickness, see the chart below. Note: The first measurement sgvenin a Woodsmith Materials Lists the thickness. This is ‘ays followed by the width and then the length. Thane cola write down the same orletter designation — ‘ofthe thickest (4"thide) pars, and the number of each part needed. dntheexample shown, vyouneed two's) Tn a second column, record the W"thick parts, Then inthe ‘next columa the 9-thick pars, and soon uniall the parts (ex: ‘ept the Masonite) are listed. ‘SORT BY WIDTH When all the parts have been sorted by thickness, the next ‘stepis tolistthem again, but this JQ) %xexe K@) Ax lex5 A x%4x 8Q rere NO extend F@) Vex texte LQ) Montz MO Yaxdx6 GQ) exBn7 time by width (also write down the length). Note: This step “huis” the original Materials List by thickness of the pars, see below, le. This step makes it easier to lay out the eutting diagram and cut the pieces into groups of Siac pieces later Note start ‘withthe thickest pieces and lst these from widest to rarrowest. LAY OUTDIAGRAM ‘The lst thing to dois begin Adawing the pieces on an imag ‘ary board, See drawing below. “Todothis, rst draw arectan- ade that represents a 34ick Diege of wood. Then drawin tne thickest parts long one edgeand label them with the letter desis raion from your new Materials List. Do this for one thicknessat 4 time unt all parts are ac ‘counted for (orthe board ilu) The idea is to separate the ‘imaginary board (oF boards) into sections with common cut lines. So when you de begin cut. ting, t should take only acouple ‘ips and a couple crosscuts to separate the board into work able sections. And each section ‘vill contain pieces al the same desired thickness, ‘BEFORE CUTTING. There's a ‘couple more things to remem: ‘ber before you start cutting up any boards. First, draw the cut ‘ing diagram so the length ofthe ‘parts run the length of the board (with the grain). ‘And, before you begin cutting the actual piece of wood, draw te cating diagram on it oo. (1 ‘use apiece of white chalic) “This way, you can lay out the parts to avoid any defects in the ‘wood, such as knots, checks, or ‘sapwood youdon'twantto show ‘pin the project. eter apes nell ‘extra wood fora project (ast about 20% more), MAINTAINING OIL FINISHES In the past, Ive used oil fin- ishee on several of my furni- fnere projects. But now dey look worn and dull. And in ‘spots, it looks as if there is no finish on the wood at alt. What ‘can I do to restore or brighten. up the finiah? Benjamin A. McComb Rockford, Miinois ‘The real advantage of oil fin- ishes is they're easy to apply. ‘But the downside is they often require regular maintenance. ‘An oll fnish leaves a thinner layer of protection than most other finishes. That's not to say that ol niches don't protect he ‘wood at all. It just doesn't take ‘much to wear them down, MAINTENANCE. Fortunately, oils are easy 0 maintain, Just ad afresh coat. Youdon't ieed to strip or sand the old finish. ‘You don't even need the exact, same finish. Any “il” finish will 4. (Oil finishes inchide natural tile, such aslinseed or tung, oil/arnish blends, wiping var nishes, and polymerized cil) ‘CLEAN, First, give the pice a gentle cleaning with mineral Spits and fine steel wool, This not only takes care ofthe dir also removes any. wax oF furnk ture polishes on the wood. Ue there are any scratches, a fresh coat of of usualy hides them. The scratch i stil there. Its just blended in. Of course, dents and gouges will probably require @lite more attention. ADD FRESH COAT, After clean ing, wipe on a fresh coat of oil. Just brush or wipe a heavy coat ‘on the project Let it sit a few minutes, maiking sure the sur face stays wet. Then wipe offthe ‘excess.and let it cure overnight. ‘Add another coat (or coats) any time the fnish begins 10 look “dry” or worn, 28 ‘Woodsmith No.92 G.F.C.I. EXTENSION CORD Power tools aren't used only in the shop. Sometimes I need 10 take too! to another work ste Last summer, or instance, sev eral Woedsmith offices sutfered water damage from the foods, so there was clean-up work to do, ‘What I wanted was an exten- sion cord for a wet-iry vacuum and a power washer. A ground: fault protected cord would be safest. But an extension cord with «builtin GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) recep- tacle can be hard to find or ex- pensive to buy So | gathered all the parts to make my own GFCI extension ‘cord. Note: This is one of those projects that’s best io complete hefore i's needed, ‘WHATISAGFCr? First, let me take a minute to explain what a ground fault protected circuits, It's one that's able to detect dit ferences in current coming into ‘and going out of anelectrictool. the current into and out of the tool isn't the seme, it means there'sa short somewhere, This can be a dangerous situation if you're operating the tool on ‘damp floor — your body could become part of the circuit and carry the leaking (and possibly deadly) current fo the ground. “That's what's called @ ground fault. A GFCI protected circuit vill detect such afault and inter rrupt the flow of current hefore it can hurt you, ‘OUTDOOR EXTENSION CORD. ‘Tomakea GFCT extension cord, I started by gathering up al the parts from an electrical supply ‘tore. Note: Most of the parts are available from local haré- ‘ware stores, but | wanted to use ‘commercial grade parts for ex tra durability when used out doors. (Akogether I spent about $40 on the parts for this ‘cord. See page for more details) RECEPTACLES Bo ‘The sefety part ofthe | For fet extension cord is the GFCI receptacle. The one I used is rated for 120 volts at 15 amps. ‘The receptacle is mounted in an outioortype (aluminum) box, see photo. (Hard. plastic boxes arealso available) CORD. Besides the safety fea ture, what like best about this extension cord isthe heavy-uty cable. tsa 14-gauge, $condue- tor cable wrapped with a dura- ble, bright yellow jacket. This is tougher than the 143 cable you likely to find at a hard ‘ware store. Andit's more expen- sive, too. But for a short length ‘expecially when working around t0e conditions, this extension cord has a grown fault protected receptacle (he cord Lmadeis 16eet ong) t'sonly afew dollars mare. ‘CONNBCTOR &PLUG. On one ‘end of the cable is an aluminum ‘connector that joins the eable to the receptacle box. This grabs ‘onto the cord soitcaa'teasily be pulled out ofthe box It makesa ‘watertight connection, too ‘At the other end of the cable is the plug. Here again, I chose a heavy-duty component. It’s a three-prong plug with a connec- tor that prevents the cord from being pulled out ofthe plug, BUYING LUMBER THROUGH THE NEWSPAPER Occasionally, 1 ram acrose an ad in the classifieds for hardwood lumber, Usually its ‘oak or walnutthat'sbeen stored for a number of years in some~ ‘one's harn or shed. The thing i, only about a buek a board Ts this. a good deal? Randy Pierce Galveston, Teras A bara can be lke an old gold ‘mine. You either dig up gold or dirt, Twe found some benutifil wood through the classifieds. (lve used itto build some of the projects that have appeared in Woodsmith.) But there's a lotof “firewood” that’s avertised too, There aren't any guarantees. Either way, be prepared to spend more time andl energy than if you were to go to a um Deryard or woodworking store. Before making any tip. 1 would try to get as much infor mation as possible over the No. 92 phone, Hereare two questions ‘would start with, How has the wood been milled and dried? Actually, Tm not really con. ‘cerned with the specific tool ‘used to mill the wood. Or the specific method used to d ‘Asking these questions helps ‘me geta feel for how much care the sawyer took in milling and drying the wood. rot, ticker marks, split ends, or severe bowing and cupping. Also, ifthe wood hasbeen air- dried, you may need to stack ‘and store the wood in your house or garage until thedrying process is complete. Note: Later, if you do di tw go see the wood, take a mois suremeterith youtocheckthe ‘moisture content of the wood. (For sources ee page 31) The more you know about milling and drying the better off you'l be. Twohelpful booksare: Understanding "Wood, by Bruce Hoadley, and On’ Woo! and How to Dry Tt fom the Fine Woodworking On. series (For sources, see page 31.) Can T pick and choose just the boards T want? Lumber stored in someone's shed probably hasnt been sorted or graded professionally. There may be furniture-quality wood right next to boards you couldn't build a pallet with. So you need to make sure you're comparing “apples to ap- ples” when comparing this ium- ‘er to the lumber available at 3 reall store. The wood may not, Woodsmith be as much of a bargain as you think. Ifyou eble to pick and choose, vou can be your own “grader” Otherwise, you may cend up paying for firewood. ‘Then, if you get satisfactory answers to these questions, 60 and see for yourself. But re ‘member, “all that gliters. .” DEAR WOODSMITH._ Join the conversation — ‘tharswhat Talking Shopisall Avene, ‘512. (RAK 515-282-0741) 2 READER’S JIG When sharpening the bevel on my turning gouges, | generaly tise my bench grinder with an aluminum oxide whcel, And I Ddethetiscto admiuthathe ree hand technique Tve used is probably ess than idea Maintaining the bevel angle on a gouge, while robing the bevel across the whee, is just abputimpossible. Tin sure there hhwe been times when Tve round away too much mater, Oraltered a bevel or wo. when I received a photo of this jig fom Harry DePuria of Livingston, New Jersey, i looked like it mighi solve my problem, Harry's jig can accom modate most turning gouges —withoutwn- | intentionally altering the beve! angle | "This jigeanbe set up quickly But best of all.allows you to check your progress dur | ing the grinding process without having io worry about placing the gouge back on the ‘whet atthe proper ang. The jg automat ically maintains the angle THEPARTS. A support arm (A), with a | handle stop (B) and rest (C), are used 10 support the too aginst the wheel ee Fig 1-Aa arm guide (D), wih a groove cut on ove side, Holds the arm in place, And 0 mount the jzto the workbench, te guide (is screwed toa base (E) SET-UP, To setup thejig, | placediton the lefthand ‘side of my bench grinder since that’s where I keep the wheel used for sharpening my gouges, see photo. If your arrinderis set up differently. you may have tobuildamizror image ofthe jgshown here. When positioning he jg. it should be par- allel to the grinding wheel, see Fig.2. And the Vnotch in the handle stop must be ‘straight out from the face ofthe wheel. Next, with the grinder turned eff, pl the gouge on the handle rest. Then adja the support acm so the bevel rests flat against the wheel, Once the arm is in posi- . ighten the wing m Gouge Grinding Jig FEATURE YOUR JIG Ifyou've built an original jig and would like to see it fea- tured on this page, send your ea to Woodsmith, Reader's Jig, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, 1450312. we publishit, we will send you$100anda complete set of Vioodsnth back issues, with binders. CThis set retails for over $300.) Inchide a sketch (or photo) of your jig and an explanation of how @s used And please inchide a daytime phone number. USINGTHEIG. After the fg is set up, its just a matier of turning on the grinder and lowering the gouge onto the wheel. Once the bevel touches the grinding wheel, begin sweeping the bevel back and {orth across the whee, rlling towards the outside edges ofthe wheel between sweeps, ‘see Fig. 3. Note: As you're sweeping across thewheel, keep the gougerolling. It's kept in one place too long, you may end up heat ing up the gouge and taking the temper out ofthe metal Also, check your progress often. What you're trying to get isa smooth, consistent bevel all the way around the gouge. earns —~ fi ‘Anu guve ww AEE, © ieee ana ghar woe Weodsmith BE OPEC -s.0 PPLE S Sources nich and rubbed out the Gnish ‘with sandpaper and steel wool. However, I didn't use three ‘coats of the same type of var- tds, Tose both high gos and eggshell. see sources bel ‘There's a good reason for this, ‘The eggshell varnish has sol- ids that have been added to it. STAND-UP DESK For the Stand-up Desk, Wood- ‘amith Project Supplies is offer- ing akitthat includes the drawer knobs and woodscrews. The solid brass knobs are about "in diameter forthe larger drawers ‘and around ‘ie! for the smaller drawers. (Forsimilar knobs, see ‘These solids diffuse ight sothe Mail Order Sources below.) surface doesnt look so glossy. W92-792-100 Stand-up So why not apply three coats ‘of eggshell? There are « couple ‘ROUTER BITS, To Cit hie mor- reasons. Because the gloss var- tises in the legs ofthe Stand-up nish is purer, it cures harder. Desk, Tused a 14" spiral end A grourd-aut protected cord (age 29) can bo made with a GFCIre- Also, with three coats of exe mil it, (These router bits are Ceptace/A, 2 box B)coverplete ©, cable (O), cableconrector €] arid shell, the solidsadded tothe var- often called upcut spiral cutter 2plug f). Theyteavalabl at home centers and eectrcal sunolystores nish tend to make the finish look bits, see sources below.) To ‘loudy and hide the grain make the dovetail mortise and rRECUTMATS.Each frame is of the plugs will match your So instead, laplied two coats tenon joint, described on page designed to hold a standard. project better when staining. of gloss varnish fis to give ita H4,luseda 2" dovetailbit,_precut mat (available start sup- vives really hard surface. Then s third Woodsmith Project Suppties ply stores or framing shops). ‘coat using the eggshell to re- is oering asd cide ead For fo Grid Work Fre. me TheStsi Stal massac ih move sone ofthe ‘mill bit as well as « carbide- an Iixl4 mat. For the Accent Miwa’ ican. Then tipped dovetail bit Frame, use an x10 mat. (They Llygushedontwo coats ofaclear MOISTURE METER W92-1503-250 Spiral End mayneed to be trimmed) satin polyurethane. Both these Onpage20,wetalked about buy- Mill Bit (4" Shank) ..$19.95 Ry finishes are available atloeal re. ing home-dried wood. Anytime W92-1514-550 12" Doveiail, tail stores and also through the youbuy lumber itsalways good Bit (4! Shank) ooenS15.95 Thereisn'tany special hardware sources listed below. io know what the moisture level CTUREFRAMES %*%dfortheStepS.oolshown — ficTURE FRAMES. Both ofthe is. Moisture metersarevalable m on page 24, Face grain hard- picture frames were finished from the sources sted below. ‘To make the Picture Frames on wood plugs are availabe from with two, coals of a wiping var- Also, we would like to recom page 17, the only hardware the sources sted below. ‘nish —General Finishes’ Royal mend couplebooksfromTaun- youll need are turnbutions and rive curnexs. You can also Finish. This is available from ton Press (see phone number sawtooth hanger (fyouplanto cut your own face grain phigs Wondamith Project Supplies. below) abouthow wood's dried, hhang the frame). These supplies with a tapered plug cutier, ce W92-4003-602 Royal Finish ‘They are Understending Wood, are commonly available at hard+ sources below. By using a lug Top Coat Satin) $11.95 quart _ by Bruce Hoadley and On Woot ware storesas well asart supply cutter and scrap from your pro- STAND-UP DESK On the desk. and How to Dry It from the stores and framing shops. ject, the color and grain pattern I brushed on three coats of var. Fine Woodworking On... series. WOODSMITH PROJECT SUPPLIES MAIL ORDER SOURCES ‘ORDER BY MAIL ‘ORDER BY PHONE Similar hardwore ond eupplies may be found in the following ‘To order by mil, use the or For fastest service use our Toll der form that comes with the Free order line. Open Monday current se. The order Som through Fay, 7 AM to 7 PM includes information on sales Central Time. ine your VISA. MasterCard, or | ““RO3 seater Ifthe mail order form is not Discover Card ready. Rie neniGciris «Bey Atiertinestt Berd Cater availabe, please cal our Tol TotMcsoaester’ —$Spbul Cater le, Rec Poon Pup ‘Free number at the fight for 1-800-444-7527 | rowun rove Hifi Grrl ‘ee Mar tr more information on specific Pid ieee es Vanstone ant charges and any applicable Note: Prices subject to sales tax, change after June, 19% ——{ 0 eg ee oot No. 92 Woodsmith 31 ALLA T LOOK Final Details Stand-Up Desk | ‘K Dovetail ids, rane lobe, and shop-mada dh Taleresting details that go into building this Desk. Complete step- ‘yystep plana jor tualing the prgeet bean on page 6. ides. These are just K Buon the back of the signed to look goad. We vealrad to match the sides and front. Picture Frames Oak Step Stool i| I This Stop Stool ie strong ough to stand on, Yet light enough to corny arownd. Hs a great Droject for a. free weekend. Plans start on page 25. I Baginning on page 17 we shox howe to ake foo unique rid work: (foreground). picture frames. One with decorate ‘and a: smaller frame with accent strips (buckground). Woodsmith No. 92

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