EDITOR’S COLUMN En Sup Joie Murty, selon, San. en ans ‘naan Chet Lo SHIPPING DEPARTMENT Jay Carn Supers Scan, ‘entie Mele, Chuck Cron Sa Cae ‘WoonsMInE STORE Dave aon Manage Wendel Son, Ve Domini amen Steve okinon Woodsmithe ox ast Tiaarterattne Set eee eee eee SB RA ham ne Hee Sd dang at We Bat se Se -50:85-5 80a Sawdust ave you ever tried to sneak up on a cut and found out you “over suck" by usta hai? Ihave. Many tes. Anditean be frustrating, Whether is justa Tite mistake ora majpe setback, tcan ruin aproject—nottomentionagood afternoon jntheshop. Tye always thought the sign of skilled craflsman sone who can carefully correct hismistakes Or adm vhenitstimetstart ‘fom sertch and make something ver 1n thinking about this 1 decided to ask sone of the folks here at Wondamith to share their goofs — and how they fxed them. As you might quees they eeemed to be more wiling to share the Ses than the foubups. Anyway, the result isan article bout“Quick Fixes" en page 26. ‘A STORY. Sometimes, though, I nut ght no anys be tebe so tion Time for another story. ‘About ten years ago Iwas turing 1 diameter walnut plate on. the lathe. The plate Blank was ghiedto a piece of plywood, dna the plywood was screwed tothe face lat ofthelathe. thought a getfancy and tum the plate as thin as possible. Everything was going along fine whea | decided to tur the center usta litle bit thinner. That was a wrong decision. The lathe tot cut right through the want and intothe plywood. Ttvwas one of those“eritical” moments in the shop, Should [tear off dhe lathe and fing iat the firewood pile inthe comer? Or ty torepairie ‘No this mistake was way beyond repair. ‘But didnt have the hear to see it as kine dling for aire the next winter. So .instead, decided to shut off the lights snd go watch Columbo. Probably the best decision could havemade. Tent bac tothe shop the next morning ‘withamuch better perspective onthewhole thing. figured out a way to cut (tur) a ‘AM dlamelerhole cut ofthe centeroithe wal aut plate. Thea I turned a cherry disc that ‘couldbe ged into thehole fra perfect i 1 stilhavetheplateand getcommentson how the ila cherryisance design touch {ithey only knew the “hole story) ‘The point ofthis is that sometimes you ‘anrush to throwaway apiece because ofa mistake, when it may be best to sit back awhile and think about the bigwer picture. ‘You might be able to fizure outa solution youl be more satisfied with intheend. ‘NOW DEPARTMENT. Thearticieon “Quick Foxes isthe fratotanew d we're calling “In-The Woademith Shop." won't alvaysbe fixes [getloteofletiersasking for explanations on why we do things the way ‘wedoinourshop. Welusethis space ry lo giveyou someanswers ‘Think of itas though you're visting our shop every two months (without the noise ‘orsawdus}). We want olet youknow about some of the techniques we use offer seme notes on project design, and talk about ‘some of ou favorite tools and jgs. NEW FACES, NEW PLACES, Those of you who have been with Woodemith or awhile know thatfrom imeto time luse this space totalk about new folks who have joined us. Werecenty hired Joyce Moore io head up oar Information Services Department. (A fancy name for computer department) Joyce has ownedaconsuling company and we've used her services in the past to eval tate our growing computer needs. ‘We've also shifted around afew people One of our editors, Gordon Gaippe, has joined with graphic arist Bob Whitmer and ilustrator Mark Higdon to form a group were calling Publishing Services They be working on a variety of bookets assembly sheets for our project supplies kits, and ther special projets. Tve asked Jon Garbison to fill Gordon's spot as asisiant editor Joa has spent the lest year as our technical support person answering phone calls and letters from readers. HeSalso former English teacher, sohe's already at work on my grammar. Finally, Jeff Janes, one of our customer service representatives, has stepped for ‘ward to Jon's shoes in the technical sup- port position. HELP WANTED, It seems like 28 we grow swe continue to look for qualifed people to joins Rightnow wee looking fo another fulltime, irhouse editor. “This person should have some magazine editing or writing experience, and, of ‘course be 2 woodworker. Ifyou have these ‘qualifcations, send us letter telling a ithe ‘Bitabout yourself and your experiences. Send your leer to Doug Hicks, Manag ing Ector, 2200 Grand Ave, Des Moines, 1A 96312. Hell getbackto you. 1” ‘Woodsmith No. 8+B] Seven great tips. 1) Trimming ! Dovetails Flush. 2) Shim Saver. 3) Switch Extender. 4) Custom Fitting Dadoes. Plus Quick Tips. TG | This Oak Rocking Chair is made L from quariersawn white oak. It's asolid, handsome heirloom. Ta] Use this jig on the router table when you need to cut angled tenons (as for the Rocking Chair). FO] 1 Gluing an Octagon. 2) Fitting Legs to Rockers. 3) Sizing Splines. 4) Using an Adjustable Triangle. 5) Modifying a Bit. J] Me frame for this Oval Mirroris shaped using a router —so is the complex profile. We show you how. (2| Drawing an oval is one tiring, but cutting oneis something else. Build this jig for use with your router. [26] Five fixes from the Woodsmith Shop. 1) Loose Tenons. 2) Open Miters. 3) Lifted Veneer. 4) Router Chipout. 5) Cracks & Splits A shop-made fence to convert your router table into an edge Jointer or azero-clearance fence. [50] Have youever tried todiga broken or damaged screw out ofa project? Hereare two ways to help ease the pain. Bi] Hardware and supplies needed for =| the projects in this issue. Oak: Rocking Chair page 6 Removing Screws page 30 No.8¢ WoodsmithFROM FELLOW WOODWORKERS Tips & Techniques TRIMMING DOVETAILS FLUSH When I build a box using router anda ush tim bit, dovetails itseasiesttomakethe The only problem with this pinsand tailsabitlong.Aterthe _technique'sthatwhen trimming box is assembled, | trim them the pins off the first side of flush withthe ses ofthe box. corner. the tlis on the ajacent This can be done by carefully side get in the way. There isn'ta paring off the ends of the pins flat surface for the routerto ride and tals with chisel, and then on. To create «fat surface, Tuse ‘sanding flush. But I found 2 a piece of ¥-thick Masonite fasterand easier way —using a ‘To do this first cut a piece of ‘Masonite tot between the pro- ‘trading tails, sce Fig. 1. Then at tach It to the box with double sided carpet tape, or ciamp it if ‘the clamp won't getin the way. Now setthedepth ofthebit so the bearing rides below the pro- truding pins, sec Fig. 2a. Then trim the pins lush in a series of light passes, sce Fig.2. ‘When the pins are fish, re- move the Masonite and tim the lends of the tails, see Fig. 2b. Since the pine are now flush, they won'tgetin the way. Soyou ‘won'tnced to use the Mssonite. ‘Note: This is also a good way totrim finger and box joints. Robert S. Bursom Florissant, Missouri ‘Straeeostans SHIM SAVER I bought some brass shims adjustment the width of cut. ‘rom woodworking mailorder But soon discovered aprob- catalog to put between the lem. The shimsare o thin they blades of my stack dado set. fall into the threads ofthe arbor ‘They allow meto makevery ine on my table saw. And then the shims bind or get chewed up when I tighten the bot Fortunately, theresa very simple solution. Put a Couple of small dots stareaeorVaseine Fig. L. This makes the shim stick tothe blade andpreventsit {om falling into the threadsof the arbor. ‘Alan Scavart: Gainesville, Fonda WThe on/off switch on a table saw should be easy to locate, even if you cant see it But the toggle switch onmy contractor's ‘saw is under the saw table, and itstoosmalltoSdvithoutlean ingback o ake slock “Forse tisprolem, Imad 4 simple switch extender. see Fig. To do ths bore eboke ‘oft thesmich iver inthe end of a2" length of dowel see Figs “iien glue the devel onthe cad of thevwithleserth pons, hotmelt ge, o another ind ef ‘gapfilling glue, Row the togcle switch is easier to the, whether Tan neon Hicks Chord ti Brevard, NC 4 ‘Woodsmith No. 84CUSTOM FITTING DADOES Wlere’s a neat technique for routing datloes to exact size. All ittakesisa router with astraight bit, and two guides, see photo. “To start, make the guides by gluing a hardwood fence to an oversize base of ¥4" Masonite, seeFigs. Land la. Theatrim the ‘excess width off the base on one side ofthe fence, see Fig. 13. ‘Note: Since bits are often nat centered inthe base plate ofthe router. hoidthe same side of the router against the feace when trimming the guidesand routing thedadoes. ‘Toroutadad, firetlay outone side of the dado on the work- piece. Then clamp one of the ‘muides along tat line. “The trick fo getting the dado to exact size isto use the piece that wil tin thedadoasaspacer when positioning the second guide, (Or use a scrap piece of the same thickness.) Position the spacer against the frst guide. Then place the ‘second guide against the spacer and clamp the second guide to the workpiece, see Fig.2 Rout the dado by running the router along one guide and back along the other, see Fig. 3. Brett Anthony San Jose, California ] Ra Wit often seems nearly im- ‘possible to remove screws from ‘old furniture. I have found that the bond between the screw and the wood is more easily broken i the screw is first figktoned 2 tiny bit, and then backed out. Jerome A, Jahnke Milwaukee, Wisconsin Water-based polyurethanes are easy to useand clean-up. But ‘once opened, oxygen gets inthe ‘can. When the canis resealed, it starts rusting almost immed ately. Then when the can is re- ‘opened, rust falls into the finish. To avoid the problem, store the unused portion ina plastic bottleorjarwithaplaticlid. And ENLARGING PLANS When building a project from Woodsmitt take the magazine to a copy center and have the plans copied. At the same time. have them enlarged to 11" 10" ‘This makes the plans easier to read, and I-don't risk damaging the magazine ia my shop. Talsomark changes Imake on the copies, so the magazine Biitor’s Note: For some ways use the smalest size possible. _ stays ints original condition. to remave broken teoodsereus, Cary D. Lawrence Wallace Korvasch sve the article on page 20. Orland Hilts, Iisnois Milwaukee, Wisconsin No. 84 Woodsmith 5— Oak Rocking Chair To rock smoothly HEIRLOOM PROJECT the curved rockers have to be identical The secret is to cut and sand one curved piece smooth. Then use it as a template to make the second one match the first. ( Nurved parts, That's what makes « Rocking Chair different rom anordinary chair, And cutting curved parts accurately can ‘seem intimidating. Butt doesn't have to be if _you follow a certain procedure. SXACTDUPLICATES. The usual way ofmaking curved pieces graceful and smooth isto star with a grid pattern, then reuse the pattern on all the matching pieces a this chair I did comething different. Be cause there have o beezact duplicates ofmany ofthe curved pats, dida’tre-use the patterns. 1K doesn't matter ifthe duplicate pieces aren’ ‘exactly like the original pattern. Only that they're exact duplicates of each other. ‘The secret is to concentrate on the first piece. After eutfingitto rough shape, I sanded until ithad aconsistently smooth curve. Then, tolay out the matching pieces, I used the first piece asa pattem. Not the original patter, (CUTTING ANGLED TENONS. There are also a couple pieces in this project that join at an angle. To make cutting these as easy as possible, Ibullta special jg for the router table Formore on this jg, sce page 14 ‘WOOD & FINISH. To give the Rocking Chair the look of an antique, I used quartersawn white oak throughout. Thea I stained it with Minwax Special Walnut, and applied two coats of Minwax Polyurethane ta protect the oak Woodsmith No. 84EXPLODED VIEW MATERIALS OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 42°H x 38"D x 25"W BACK ASSEMBLY A Bocklegs@ © 1¥2x6-40.00n) B BockSiis (6) 14x2-17 © Upper ock Rail) 194x3- 1959 D Lower Back Rol(1) 1342/4 199% E Bock Seat 2a!) 43-19% FRONT ASSEMBLY F frontlegs@ ax lin-23¥2 G Front Sect Rai()) 343-214 Hi Front stetcner(l) 32x 14-204 SIDE ASSEMBLY 1 Side Seat Rats) Y4x3-17 1 Amerock) Yx2"5-r0 K AmRess@) — Yuxdle-2i4 L Rockers) 2¥4x7/4-38r0n) ‘SEAT ASSEMBLY M Seat Cleats (4) 4x%-16 IN SectPonal(i) 2 ply-17x22¢h) SUPPLIES “HARDWARE © (28) 48x 117 Woodscrews = @#i2x2/z Woodscrews DAB» le FRWoodecrewe © Wood plugs(orshor dowetroc) FINISH * Mirwox Speco Walnut stan, MirwaxSath Poiyurethone Top Coct UPHOLSTERY + ()17"x2 (ghypece 2 ean ++ (25 x30" plece fabric (orleathen) iat x6" tor WO ROARDS@ 2.584. C80) 4 urs a8" (7 Ba) fone Set ee ect x Sura 7iat 00 6 Bs No. 8+BACK LEGS ‘The Oak Rocking Chairhas two mainsub-as- semblies,abackand afront Ibeganby build- ing the vertical parts of the back assembly the back legs and slat, Lic LANKS. Even though they're nicely curved, the back legs ofthis chairaren’t deli ‘cate — they're made from 147thick stock. started by cutting two oversize blanks {one for each eg) to rough dimensions, see the patiern at right. Lay our SHAPE. Now transfer the leg pat temto one of the blanks. (Enlarge the grid paitern to actual size,or fora set of fullsize pattems, see Sourceson page 31) Lax OUT MORTISES. Before cutting theleg, to shape, i's easiest to first lay out all the mortises, Then drill the mortise in the edge forthe sideseat rail (while the opposite edge is stl straight), see deta on the leg pattem and also Fig. FIRSTLEG. Afterthemortiseisdriled,Lcut the firstback leg (A)io shapein two stages, Firs, Ihandsawealthe curveto within 16" of the pencillines. Then sanded uptothe pen- cillines to smooth out the curves. SECOND LE6. Now transfer the shape of the first le to the blank forthe second leg used the legitself, not the pattern) Also transfer the location ofall the mor- tises, Then dill out the mortise forthe side rail, see Fig. 1. Now the second leg can be bandsawn 1 rough shape and sanded to match the first. ‘DRILLNOKMSES. When both back legsare sanded to the same shape, the remaining three mortises can be dled on the side of ‘each leg, see Fig. 2. ds od gg oe ig of ® Bi Ha = = to . Ea - Beer i fs | oe. va : aw "| BACK SLATS ‘The five back slats have the same curve as the upper partof the beck legs. TAY OUT SHAPE. Start by cutting oversize blanks from 124"-thiek stock, see Fig. 3. (Threeblanksareneeded—two slatscan be cut from each, giving you one extra slat.) “Then transier the curve of the top of the back leg —froncedge only — to this blank. ‘RANDSAW. Now bandsaw to within V4" of ‘the pencil mark,thensand the carve smooth ‘upto the pencil mark To eut each ofthe five back slats (B) othe same shape and thick ress, [used a pointed rub block on the band saw table, sex Fig. 4. To use the rub black, first clamp it 9s" {rom the side of the biade, Then, push the ‘workpiece through the saw with the curved front cdge of the workpiece sliding across the point ofthe rub block. Tisslices off one ‘ofthe back slats like a slab of bacon, THICKNESS SAND. When all the slats ave ‘been cut out, sand them to finished thick ness (1), see Fig.5.Then routala"round. ‘over onall four edges. Woodsmith No. 84BACK RAILS ‘The back legs of the Rocking Chair are held together by three rails. Thetoptwo rails also hood the vertical back slatsin place. The bot- tom rail supports the back of the seat. OVERSIZE BLANKS. I began all three back nals by cutting a piece for each to finished ‘width and length. Note: The railsare all cut tothe samelength, see Fig.6.Butthey'renot allthe same with or thickness. Theupper back rail (C)andlower back rail (D) are 114" thick so they can later he | cutwoacurved shape. Since the hack seat +: | curved, itcan be cut from () is not hick stock. CUTTENONS Is easiest to cut the tenons ‘on the ends of all the pieces before cutting the top two rallsto their final curved shape. ‘Note: The tenons on the upper back ral and lower back ral (the two thicker pieces) are cut the same — theyre offie om the thickness af the workpiece, see Fig. 62. But ‘on the back seat rail (), the tenons are ‘entered on the thiekness. ‘Alterthetenonsarecut onall three pieces, setaside the back seat ral (E) until the chair hack isassembled, LAYOUTARCS. Now the other two pieces cean be bandsewn to an are. To ly out this are first cuta template (Lused poster board) witha 607 radius ae, see Fig. 7. ‘Then place the template om the ‘edge ofthe workpiece to drawtheinside arc aside Move the tempiate to the outside edge (0 draw tho outside arc, see Fig, 8 ‘Alter the two ras are sawn tothe curved shape, sand them to finished thickness 64°) using rum sander in the dil press. ‘DRILL MORNSES. To hold the back slats in place. a series of matching mortises is Arilled inthe upper back railand lower back rall.seeFig. 9. Not Themortisesaredriled ‘on the facing edges of each piece — the parts can be assembled. Istarted by assem lower edge of the upper ral, and the upper bling (but not gluing) the back slats in be ‘edge of the lower ral ack rails Tokeepall the mortisesan equal distance (and the back from the edge of the rail, used a platform —seatrail) between the back legs, refer tothe with aguide pin on the drill presstable, see drawingin the upper left comer ofthe facing Mortising Tip atrightbelow. page. Glue all the tenons in the mo ASSEMBLE CHAIR BACK. Now all the back then clamp across each of the three rails 7 8 A short dowel in a plyecod base acta a8 a ‘uide pin when boring mortises on a curved luorkpice. Slide the workpizce along the pin Sor mortises an equal distance from the edge. | No. 84 T Woodsmith 9FRONT ASSEMBLY AAs the glue was drying on the back as- sembly, Ibegan workon the chaifront This ‘consists oftwo legscounevted by a seat rail andastretcher. LEG BLANKS, The frontlegsareas sofas the curved back legs. That's because they're also 1¥0"thick, see Fig. 10. ‘After cutting cach front leg (F)to finished dimensions, mark the top inside edge of ‘each leg. Thiswill help orient the legs when laying out the mortises on the sides. (Note: ‘Youbave to make a“mirrored” set of legs) RAIL & STRETCHER MounIsES. Each leg has four mortises, see Fig. 10. One mortise ‘on the inside is for a tenon on the front seat rail, A second, shorter mortise below the firstis or the fort stretcher ‘A third mortise is located on the back of c2ch leg (adjacent to the first two mortise ‘This is fora tenon on the side seat ral. ‘After these three mortises are laid out on theleg, bore them the same depth (4), ‘Shop Note:luseda 4" mortising bitin the Thenextsiepisioconnectthefrontand back assemblies nd create a chair AILBLANK First cul tyoside rails (Ito finished width from ¥4.thick stock, see Fig. 12, Then, cutthem to length with a3" miter omeach end, see Figs. 12 and 12a. TAY OUT TENONS. To lay out the tenons, first make marke" from the long point of ach end, see Fig. 12a, Then, draw a line at sill press to bore all ree mortises. Then I ‘squared up the ends of each mortise with a chisel. Youcould round over the ends ofthe tenons, instead.) [ARM SUPPORT MORTISES. The last mortise oneachlegisalongone that’s openatthetop ‘end, see Fig. 10. Thisaccepts a tenon on the arm bracket (), refer to Fig. 133, Note: I used a 1" mortising bit and bored this mor- tise to depth of 1" by making along row of overlapping holes, see detain Fig. 10. RAIL RSTRETCHER After the mortises are Arilled, rip one piece of 34"hick stock to 3° to this mark for the shoulder ofthe tenon. Now drawtwo parallel ‘thickness of the tenon, see F the shoulder mark, extend these linesata 3 angle tothe end ofthe ral CUTTENONS. The angled tenon can be cut by hand with a tenon saw, then cleaned up swith a chisel. Or, use the Angled Tenon Jig nthe router table as shown on page 14. ‘SIDE RAN @ finished width for the front seat rail (G), anv one forthe front stretcher (H). Then ‘cut both pieces to the same length @114"), see Fig. 11 ‘CUT TENONS. Next, cut a tenon on both ‘ends of the front seat rail and the front streicher, see Fig. L1a. To do this, [used a dato blade in the table saw. Soeak up onthe ‘the thickness unt it fits the mortise smugly. ASSEMBLY. After cutting the tenons, glue the rail and stretcher in the mortises be- tween the front legs. Then setthe assembly aside until the side rails are complete. Peta ‘The Rocking Chairhastoomainassem- lies: back and a front. After these are completed, the two side rails are glued ‘ondclamped inbetweento makea chair. Woodsmith No. 84Whenthebackand font assembliesare com nected, the project saimost a chair. But it ‘wouldnt beavery comfortablechairwithout Spar of armrests ‘ARM BEACKETS. Tp support cach am rest atthetront, Ladded anarm bracket. Thearm brackets G) cach start outasarecangular ‘lank of Y'-thck stock, se Fig. 1. TENONS. The next step is to cut a tenon slongone siteand onc en of the Blank, see Fig. 1a (The tenons are more ike tongues = they don't have vey wide shoulders) Tsed a dado blade in the table sto cut ‘ach tenon, Firsiposiion theripfence othe desiredtenon ength. Therimake two passes over the dado blade, flipping the piece be tween passes. Sneak up on the height ofthe ado blade unl the tenon Sts the mortise in the frontleg ee Fig. 133. Then cui allfour tenons to this thickness. DECORATE ARC. Complete the arm brackets by cuting a decorative art on the outside edge sce Fig. 1. ‘Next rim back the tenon on the top oud- side corner and also the bottom inside corner ofeachbracket, see Figs. and 138 ‘This ereatesa shoulder that hides the joint Tinebetwreen the tenon and the mortise ‘ARMREST. When the amu brackets were compete, Ihgan work oa the two arm rests (09) Fsteutthebiankstorecangular shape, tee Fig 14 Next, make an angled cut to re move te back outside comer af each blank. [ARM REST NOTCH. When each blank has been cutto stage, cuta small notch in the back inside corner, see Fig. 1. Thisallows the arm restto “wrap around” the back leg, refer Fig. 18 RACKLEGLEDGE. The back ofthearm rest issupported by sal riangular“Tedge"cut intheback leg see Fig. 15 To ecate the posiion of his Keg, rest the front ofthe arm res on the front leg and support the back ofthe arm res on 3 10 Jong temporary spacer, see Fig. 15. Now draw apencil ine aroundall the edges ofthe fmm rest, see Figs. 15 and 15a, Then chisel ‘between theselinestoform he ledge. FRONTMORTISE. When the edges recut, the arm brackets can be ied into the mor. tises in the front legs, see Fig. 13a, Then place thearm est in postion inthe ledge Nowreach under theron ofthearm rest and trace around the tenon atthe tp ofthe ann bracket see Figs Gare 1a This stows ‘where to dria mortise on the underside of the arm rest Drill the 98"deep mortise (0 match the thickness ofthe tenon (1). PINs SCREWS. Finally, thearm restscan be attached to the chair. To keep the tenon inplace ia the mortise give te joint and drovea dowelinto the tenon through s hole inthe edge ofthearm rest see Fig. 7. ‘Secure the backot the armrest witha wood- screw an pligitwith dowel see Fig 18 No. 84At this point the project has evolved into an ‘armchair. By adding a pair ofcurved rockers tothe bottom ofthe legs. it becomesa rock: ing chair (without a seat). BUILT-UP BLANKS. Both rockers are cut from a blank that's made from three pieces of thick stock glued together. see Fig. 19. This forms a 2¥¢"4thick blank. (Another way to make the rockers would be to start with thio, wide strips, then laminate themin a bending jig. For more on this technique, refer to Woodsmith No, 72) "TRANSFER FATTERN. When the glue has dried on the oversize rocker bianks, transfer the shape from the grid pattern (above) to ‘When I was stisied thatthe rockers were shapedidentical,Ipeepared ioattachther tothe legso the chair ‘Thetront and bacclegewere bili acouple inches longer than nesded. Thiswas doneso the legs ean be cu to length to match the curve ofthe rocker. ‘MARK FRONT L8G. To locate the point on the legs where the rockers attach, frst ‘measure down from the side seat rail and ‘make amark to indicate where the frow leg ‘pct off ce Fig. 21 ‘MARK BACK L8G. For the most accurate mcasurementon the curved bailey, used the side ofone of the blanks, see Fig. 19. ‘Saw a SAND, Now sjusta matter afband- ‘sawing the rocker (L) to within Vie" of the pattem line. Then sand upto the pencil ine tosmooth out the curves. Now use the completed first rocker as a ATTACHING THE ROCKERS atwo step procedure Fist Imadeamarkon the edge othe back legto indicate the bot. tomedge ofthe side ral see Fig-21. Thea | used asraight edge to measure 81" down ‘rom this mark, and mada second mar at thispoiat on the inside edge ofthe bac eg ‘Nove. The procedure for measuring down fromthe sideralisnot aseriticalas following the same procedure on toh backlegs. 'POSMION ROCKERS. Now position the rocker across theless the to edge ofthe rocker aligns tothe marks on the legs, see Fig. 21, There should bea 1" overtang at the fron see Fig. 2a Drawaline crossthe pattem to lay out the second, see Fig. 20. ‘Then repeat the saw and sand procedure Note: It's important that both rockers be shaped exactly the same. Otherwise, when the Rocking Chair is assembled, instead of just rocking, the chair could alco walk, legsusing the rocker asa guide forthepenci. CUT OFFLEG BOTTOMS. Now the legs can be cut off atthe pencil line. To get a clean, straight cut, [used a small block clamped 10, the leg as a saw guide. Then, I sanded the bottoms of the legs for a perfect fit with the rockers, see Shop Noteson page 16. [ATIACHROCKERS. To fastentherockersto the chair legs, I used woodscrews plugged ‘with short lengths of dowel, see Fig. 223. A ‘barclamp between the top oftheside railand the bottom ofthe rocker holds the rocker in place while drilingapilot hole for the screw anda counterbore for the plug, see Fig. 22a. 21] Woodsmith No. 84CHAIR SEAT The seat isustaplywood platform that rests on four cleats inside the chair opening. The platiorm isupholstered with fabricwrapped foam, see Fig. 2. ‘CLEATS. To make the cleats, start by rip. ping four strips of 4" stock to Snished width (G4). Thon cut all four seat cleats (M) to the same length (157). Before installing the cleats, drill six coun- tersank shank holes in each cleat (four for the screws into the rails, two for the screws into the platiorm), refer to Fig. 23b and the Exploded View on page 7. Then glue and screw the cleats tothe in- side of the seat opening. Note: Center the cleats eft right on each railAlso, postion them ¥2" down from the top edge of each rail,see Fig. 28, StarPaxeL. Now the seat panel (N) can ‘be cut to it on the cleats. To do this, start with an oversize piece of54” plywood. Then makeatspercutalong each side ofthe blank. othe platforms 15" smallerinbothdimen- sions than the opening, see Fig. 233. ‘Also, in order for the pane! to fit around thelegs,a small notch must be cut inall four 2a paneltothe chair, upholstered itwith fabric ‘over a cushion of foam, see box below. To keep the foam from shifing around on the PoaM 4 ranaic. Before screwing the seat _panel,. mounted itwith spray adhesive, Butyou might prefer to stop after cuting the panel. Thea you could just take the seat toa proiessional upholsterer. Sownowtaowe 1 ‘Firat cut piece of thick high-density foam 'tothesamesizeas the plywood panel. (C wsed the band saw.) Also cut a small rnotehin each corner to match the platform. (Cut a chamfer around the bottom edges of Attach the foam to the plywood with spray the plyneood and the top edges ofthe foam. adhesive. Then cui the fabric" larger than ‘These let youstretch he fabricmore easily, the plywood. Center the foam on the fabric: ‘and give the soatamore finished look. and cut a square out of each commer. feursoes or raae. ‘Start with ome side ofthe fabric. fold itover the pyooot a ‘tin the mle. Go inibe ppt sid srg the fab tight before stoping. Staple al four sides No. 84 Complete stapling arowndthe seatbotiom, Now work on the ears atthe corners. Fold leaving the corner flaps open. Before driv” the edge ofthe fabric to make a plea, then ing each staple, strech the fabric tight, pull up tightly through the corner notch Ing careful to void dimplea inthe foam. Foldthe pleat verand etapleinto the panel ‘Woodsmith BJiGs & FIXTURES Angled Tenon Jig Then you want to use a rmorise and tenon joint to join two pieces at an angle, ‘you have a choice to make: cut an angled tenon or bore an ‘angled mortise. | would always ‘choose theangled tenon. ‘The challenge is Sguring out the best way tocut the tenons at anidential angle atbotk ends of the workpiece — withthe least amount of fuss, So 1 eame up with ajig for the router table. Forthe OakRockingChairon page 6 the tenonsat each end of the side rails have to be cut at a 3° angle. The problem is the angled tenonsat each end must, be parallel. and so must the shoulders, see the inset photo. But with this router table jig, angled ‘tenons up to about 1” ong can be cut with just a straight bit And by following a fairly ‘imple procedure the shouldersand tenons, are cut parallel. Anda the exact same angle. ‘The igcan te used for other projects too, because it’s adjustable or diferentangles. MAKING THE JIG The Angled Tenoa Jig consiets of two main assemblies: a base assembly and a runner assembly. The base assembly has a base piece that lies lat on the router table. and a pivoting face that holds the sanding work. Piece at anangle, see Fig. ‘The runner assembly is attached to the fend of the base assembly. It consists of a runner that slides along the front of the router table tokeepthebasea fired distance from the router bit ‘Attached tothe runner are pair of guide ‘blocks that hold the base perpendicular to the frontedge ofthe table. ‘Note: To make the jz more comfortable touse, rounded over the edgesof the guide blocks, see Fig. 1. Also, [sanded a radius on each comer ofthe runner assembly pieces, andtheoutsidecomersofthe base. Routand ‘sand these picces before assembly. ‘ASSEMBLY. Toassemblethe parts, start by attaching the guide blocksto the runner. In Stall the serews from the hottom of the run- ner, using the base as a spacer to keep the ‘locks the comeetcistance spart, see Fig 2. ‘Then hinge the pivoting face tothe inside ‘end of the base, see Fig. 2. used a pair of 2-long butt hinges.) Now,attach the base to the runner with a 2"long carriage belt Ay aNoLe This angled tenon jig holds the workpiece at any angie (up to ‘bout 45°) from vertical, see photo of jig above. Then, as the jig is run along the front edge of the router table, a perfect angled tenon can be routed on the workpiece with just one pass in each direction. (See Using the Jig on the facing page for the steps involved in making anangled tenon) ‘ADJUSTABLE THICKNESS. Be- sides being adjustable to cut tenons at different angle: there's another feature thi makes this jg useful. Itean also be used to cut tenons of just about ary thickness, on almost any size stock ‘What makes this possible isa carriage bolt in a siot, and a ‘wing aut. These old the two main paris ofthe fig together and allow the working end of the jg (the pivoting face) to be positioned at citlerent dis tances from the router bit MATERIALS. I made the i ‘roma couple short iengths of serap hardwood plus a hand- fulofhardware. pair of butthinges perm the jg to tt, and a pivot arm made from ‘Masonite securely holds the pivoting face at ‘an angle while the tenon is being routed, 14 No. 84through aholein the runner andaslotin the base, see Figs. 1 and2 PIVOTARM. To suppor the pivoting foce at ‘an angle. I cut a pivot arm trom a piece of thick Mascnite, see Fig.3. The arm has apivotholeinoneend and an adjustment slot inthe other end Cut (or sand) a radius onthe lower end of the pivot arm, then atach it to the base and pivoting face with machine serews. FENCE. Finally, cut and screw a short fence to the front of the pivoting face, see Fig. 4. This holds the workpiece securely to the ggas the tenon is being routed. ‘As long as the fence is attached at 2 90° angle otheroutertable the shouldersofthe tenon willbe square t the end of the tenon, Safety Note: Attach the fence tothe pivot- ing face with the screws positioned at least 3 up rom the bottom ofthe fence. Thisway. therouterbitwon' cutinto the serewsasthe Jigisbeing used. ‘Ona tenon longer than 94, the router bit ‘en cut into the lower ends ofthe fence and pivoting face. That’ allright because these ‘can be replaced later ifnecessary — just re- ‘move them from the hinges on the inside. ween SS — wososeeew stays camped on the front. Most anaed tenons can be cut in just two passes over « a" strxight bitin the router cut the ends ofthe workpicceal the correct the workpiece the fand outer bit ed to table. The first pass cuts one cheek of the angle. Then draw the outline ofthetenon at beadusted, sce Steps 1 thru 3below. Note: tenon. Then the tenoniscompleted inasee- the desired angle onthe edge ofthe work Don'raise the router bit higher than 1" — ‘ond pass, Only the position of the jig is piece at each end moved between passes — the workpiece Lay OUFTENON, Before using the fig, rst The layout marks should indicate the angle, length, and thickness ofthe tenon. SET UP-i6, When the tenons lad out on ican cut into the hinge screws. And to pre- ‘vent tearout along the shoulder, stick a piece of masking tapeto the ice, see Step seep pice cur ay oeseco NGLE To Se OF be Miter a piece of scrap to wxe as 1 guide for setting tenon angle. Then tighten dhe wing wuton the endofpieotarm. @ Clamp workpiece to jig v0 the edge is the workpiece should beflatonroutertable fight to the upright fence. The end of Slide the body of the jig 90 the bit ‘aligns to the outside’ cheek mark Raiae te it ioalign tothe shoulder mark. [ROM OFEEATOR'S LY TO RIOMT 4 Cut the outside of the tenon by hold- To complete the tenon, adjust the jig 5 To rout the invide check, you have to 6 ‘ing the runner tight ‘othe frontof the 20 the bit aligns tothe inside cheek slide the jig in the opposite déretion | tablecnd sliding the jig from righttolef. mark. Donot change the height of the bit. (from letioright) to avoid hiekback. No. 84 Woodsmith 6SOME TIPS FROM OUR SHOP Shop Notes GLUING AN OCTAGON When cutting miters for an ‘ightsided fame (euch as the ‘Oval Mirror on page 18), there's always 3 good chance for ror. Each of the pieces requires two miters (onc oneachend) for a total of 16 cuts. If the miter ‘gauge is off jus. 4", the com- bined gap would be’ about 14" ‘when the pieces are assembled. ‘There's a trick to creating {ight joints all around the frame. ‘The trick involves assembling two “halfframes.” then the ends ofeach half frame to fit together tightly, see Fig.l. HALE FRAMES, Start by cutting alleight frame pieces. Then glue ‘upfour pieces (haifthe frame), ‘Shop Note: When assem- ling, Tdon't use clamps — just hhand pressure. Apply glue tothe ‘mating surfacesand press them {together for about 30 seconds. PLAWOOD CARRIER. After the hhalfframes are dry, Iuse'a piece cutting of plywood as a cutoff table for the half frames, see Fig. 2. ‘Tocut the plywood, sei upthe fence on the saw a Tittle wider than the glued-up haltframe and ripthe plywood so the edgesare parallel. Now the halfframe is taped to the plywood with double-sided carpet tape. Here's the key to the tech: nique. Ifthe miters were all cut perfectly, the two ends would align fush with the edge of the plywood. Butsincetheends may ‘be off position the half frame so the two long comers extend be- yond the edge of the plywood and the two short comers are flush othe edge, see Fig 2. ‘MAKING THE CUTS. Next, rn the plywood carrier through the table Saw. trimming off the long cornersoithe halt frame. Repeat the procedure on the other halt frame, Now the two halves can be glued together without a gap. FITTING LEGS TO ROCKERS Aer cuting the legs of the (Oak Rocking Chair (shown on page 6), | tumed the chair over and settherockerson the legs. But there was a problem. fier cuting the botiom ofthe legs square. they needed to be sanded toa sight are to match thecurve af ierockers To preveatoversanding, | vwsed the rockerstike giant sad ing blocks, This way, the les canbesandediopertectly match the curve ofthe rockers. TT do this, attach athesive backed sanépaper to each rocker where the legs wil join the rocker, see Fig. 1. ‘Now place one of the rockers on its corresponding legs and sgenily sand the legs unil they atch the are, see Fig? 1 16 No. 84To cut accurate angles with the miter gauge, I don't rely on ‘ts degreemarkings — the lines are too thick lo setit very accu. rately. Instead, I use an a¢- justable triangle. Its hairine markings are much finer and more accurate than those on most miter gauges. ‘ADJUSTABLE TRIANGLE. This clear plastic tiangie is made of to picces: a right-angle base andanadjustablearm, see Fig 1 ‘The arm can be set al any point ADJUSTABLE TRIANGLE between 0° and 90" in half degrees. Each hairline marks worelativeangles (forexample, 30"/60', 20°/70") which makes setting angles much easier. SETTING MITERGAUGE. To use thetriangle, the arms locked at thedesired angieby tightening locking nut see Fig. 1 ‘Then place theadjustablearm against the left side of the saw blade, see Fig. 2. (Note: Make ‘sure the arm rests between the teeth, The set of the teeth can ‘change the angle) Then align angle at this number. For ex- themiter gauge with the base of ample, if you want this angle to thetriangleand lockitdown. be 120',setthe tiangieat 30 ANGLES OVER 90°. At times Now place the Zave ofthe tr- you have to make a cut so the angle against right side of the angle between the miter gauge bled, move the miter gauge to andthe bladeisgreater than 7, the right slot. and align, see Fig. see Fig.3. But you cant set the 4, Then move the miter gauge to triangle greater than Here, the left lotand make the cut. you have todo some math. Adjustable triangles are avail First, subtract 99 from the ableatmostartsupply stores. Or angle needed and lock the tri see page $1 for other sources. MODIFYING A BIT For the Oval Mirror profile, I ‘wanted to rout bead inthe cen- ter of the frame. To do this, ‘needed 2 round-over bit without pilot bearing. But most round. over bitsaredesigned torout the ‘edge, sothey have a bearing. AL least one source has a Vi" carbide-tipped round-over bit without a bearing (see page 3), A less expensive option is to buy a high speed steel bit (26309) and arbor set (2589) fromSears. This bit hasaremor- able rub pilot, but there's a prob- Jem when using the bit this way. “Theendwherethepiloticuss: ally screwed in isnt made to cut wood. As it spins, this flat end ‘burns the workpiece, see photo. To prevent the ‘baring, I ground a concave shape on thebit using agrind- ingwheel,seeFig. 1. Justhold the bitwith locking grinding wheel. Grind from the con. ter outwards, being careful not to nick thecutting edge. BEFORE: The bit with the lat APTER: With the end ofthe bit end is difficult to push through hotiowed out, the cut is much the workpiece, and the friction amoother, and the workpiece itproduees turnsthewond. shows noxigns of burning, ‘Woodsmith, WERATURE PROJECT Oval Mirror How do you make an oval frame for a mirror? First, cut a number of short pieces and glue them together to form an octagon. Then rout the octagon into an oval. I ‘he dea of building an Oval Mirror has always Intrigued me. But without some kind of fig to ‘cut the ovalshaped frame and rout the complex profiles, i's virtually imposeibleto makea consistent ‘val. Soafteralot ofthought (there'smore to an oval than a circle), | came up with a jig that made it ‘possible, (For more on the fig, see page 22.) ‘PROFILE. The mostinteresting aspects ofthis pro- Jectarehow the profil is created and how the frame iscutto size, ‘Tocutaprofile tke thisnormally requiresa shaper andan expensive cutter. But! molded this profleand ‘ut the oval to size with arouter (mountedin the i) and three router bits, “Torout the profile shown here and cut the frame, youTlneed a4" roundover bit (without a bearing), 4.44 core box bit, and a 4" straight bit. Joinery, The frame is made from eight pieces jpined together with splined joints. I used Ys" thick Masonite forthe splines because it's very stable and lesslikely to cause the ointstomove during changes inhumidity (areal concern ina project like this), ‘W000 4 FINISH. Toallow enoughthicknessfor the profile, you'llneed Yastock (Lie actualthickness) Tctually marke two mirrors. The one shown here is cherry and the one on the back cover is walnut For the finish I applied two coats of General Fim. ‘shes’ Royal Finish (Satin). MIKROK & HAKDWAKE. The mirror isstandard 4 thick mirror. Locally it cost $42. And that price in- cluded a special cutting fe forthe oval shape. To hang hemirror, lusedaheavy braided picture ‘ame wireand brass hinged hangers. For sources of the hardware and router bits, se page3I. SUPPLIES CUTTING DIAGRAM i Overall Dimensions: 37Hx25°Wx Wie ‘A Enc) TWhoxs- 122 B Sidos() Tax 15 ©) 19' x214 x10 Mosontte for spines) + (D8 x25’ x37" Oval Miro ©) atx 32° x0 Stondard ++ 00147 Giceng Push Points Ue aed ++ @ 5x12 Mh Wooascrews = ()20b Bred We 10' rah. ¢ @7 RupperBumpen 5 | @ilewolrengeyuth ook : ftom fare) Nae! a 3 xprize. re) © MasonileSpines (6) Yex%e-2/2 | ‘Woodsmith No. 84BUILDING THE BLANK ‘The oval frame actually stars out as an octagonal bank, see Fig. 1. Four of the pieces are identical ends (A), and the other four are identical sides (B). To cut all eight Pieces, youl need to set the saw for three fereatangles (SeeShiop Noteson page 17 forinformation on cutting accurate angles) "ENDS a SIDES, To cu the ends (A) and sides (B), first rip al eight pces fromm 54 Stock (116 actual thickness) to a finished width of see Fig 1. Now miter one end of ach piece at 2218 Then cut each end (A) to final length with 30" miter atthe other end, see Fig: And Cutthesides (Balti longer with theother end mitered a 15° ‘Once althe piecesarecutto size, the next step sto rout grooves for splines. ORGANIZING PIECES. One thing that's im- portant with spline and groove joinery is taking sure ihe grooves align. So before routing the workpieces, frst organize them as theyre going to appear in the blank, see Fig 1, Then draw an" cn the face ofeach Dice so they be artented the same way. ROUTING GkoovES. Normally, a spline is centered onthethicknessof aboard But or this project, a centered spline would be ex- posed once the profile was routed. So 10 svoid this, | placed the splines offcenter (Qe trom the back) on the thickness of the frame pieces, see Fig. 2. ‘The grooves alsohaveto bestopped short 0 they won't be seen on the outside of the frame. To rout the stopped grooves, first rout one end of each workpiece in the nor ‘mal, right oleft manner stoppingatacenter- Jine drawn on both the router table and the workpiece, see Fig. 3. (Note: Pace the “X" ‘eway from the router table fence ) ‘Then to rout the other end of each piece ‘sothe stoppedgroovesareon the sameside, keep the "X"facing out and plunge the work ‘piece on the bt atthe centerline and rout in the normal direction, see Fig. 4. GUIE UP BLANK. Now cut splines from ¥tthick Masonite and glue up the pieces. (For more on this, see page 16.) 2 Front tee ] MOUNTING BLANK TO Oncethegluedries thenextstepistomount theframe blankon the Oval Cutting Jig. (For ‘more on the jg, sce page 22) To ensure the profile is routed in the center ofthe blank, the blank must be positioned correctly on thei ‘Todo this, drstdsill holesfor woodscrews that are used to hold the blank to the large plywood base, see Fig. 5. Safety Note: To ‘ensurethe router its clear the screws, place the holes atthe center of each piece, within Vi ofthe inside edge. Then stick small pieces of doubiesided ‘carpet tape centered on the bottom of the blank, seeFig.5.Thetape willhold the rame to the plywood once its cut from the blank. MOUNT BLANK Now slip the blank over the carriage and align itt the layout lines, seeFig. 5. Thenserewittotheplywood hase, No. 8$ROUTING THE PROFILE With the blank ‘mounted on the Oval CCatting Jig, the pro- ile and shape of the frame canbe routed. ROUTER BITS. A shaper cutter can ‘mold the profile shown in the photo above, Butyoucanalsoroutit with three router bits: 84" roundover bit (without a bearing). a Yi" core box bit, and a V4" straight bit. more on he's" round-aver bi. eepages 17 and 31) FIRST PASS. The profile is routed in nine separate steps, see below. And each stepis Positioned at 2 different locstion on the blank. To determine winere the frst pass begins, locate the ‘center of one of the ‘ends (A) and draw a ‘centerline, seedraw- ingatright ‘Next, mount the Ve round over bit {he router. And then. set the depth of the Ditto rout 1" deep. Now adjust the router carriage so the outside edge of the bitis on the inside ofthe conterine After the router carriage is adjusted, foe low the step-by-step procedures below ‘changing the bitsand adjusting the carriage ‘a8 you go. Note: When performing the fol- lowing steps, always remember (0 start a Tittle wide from where you want to end up, then sneak upon the final measurement. With « 14" round-over bit in the router, position the router carriage sotheautaideedge ofbitisonthe centerline, Now rout inside halfof Ve"acide bond. Q Rect radjuttretercarvioge othe inside erge of bit is approximately Y6" aicay from the centerline. Then sneak uponcenterline to complete Ve acide bead. Switch to.a %* core hor bit. Adjust ‘carriage soinsicie edge ofits about ¥%4Saway from outside edge of bead, Sneak upon bend to ereate Vs"avide shoulder. Qi Nets reposition carriage vo outside edgeofbitisapprazimately /i"away from inside edge of the bead. Then, sneak ‘up on bead tocreate a Vs" cide shoulder, ‘Now install a %* straight bit. Then ‘adjust carriage 40 the inside edge of bit ie about 72° aueny from the centerline Neat, sneak up to leave ¥e"widecote. ‘Reinstall¥,"round-over bit. Thenre- position carriage so inside edge of bit inabout "any fromoutside edge of cove Now sneak np to leave Yewide nhoudder. wesmasnT — gsaaKue = J Nez reposition carrie ve the out Side edge ofthe round-over bit is ap- proximately Ya" avy from the bead. Sneak np to leave 15"0ide cone. Now reinstall %' straight bit. Then ‘dust carriage so bit ts about Vie" ideedge of from outside rowud-over. Sneak up on ‘onnnd-over tout the oulside edge of oval Q Beat iil cig of oat, readnat ‘carnage so straight bit is about Ve" ‘oway from inside rowrul-over. Now sneak upon roundover and eut through blank. 20 Woodsmith No. 84INSTALLING THE MIRROR After the peofle bas been routed, gently re- movetheframe from the plywood bese. [the 6 double-sided carpet tape won't release the frame, dissolve the adhesive on the tape by Alowingasmall amount of denatured alcohol under the frame. 'ROUTINGRABBET. The final stepin making the frame is to rout a34!-wide rabbet along, the back inside edge forthe mirror: Todo this, Lused ahand-held rowter with a rabbeting bit, see Fig 8 But, because the back of the frame isa't very wide, I carpet tapeda small lock of wood to thebase ofthe ‘outer for atonal super. Then when routing the rabbet, move the router in a FINISH, With the frame complete, the next step is to lightly sand the profile and then appiy the finish RACKING BOARD & MIRROR. To protectthe silver coating on the back oftherairror, leat 4 standard mat board to use as a backing board, see Fig. 7. (also brought this tothe lass shop so they could use it asa template ‘whencutting the mirror.) ‘Then to complete the projec, install the ‘mirror and backing board with 19 push points spaced evenly around theinsideedge ofthe frame, see Fig.8 HANGING THE MIRROR [Normally frame i hung with one wire run ning across the back. But the braided wire used to hang this mirror sirung_in such @ way that itpulls the frame in towards the center ofthe mirror —releving some ofthe ‘pressure the weightofthe mirrorhason the Doitom joints. ‘One nice thing about this systems that it works for both horizontal and vertical mountings, see Figs. 9 and 10. STRINGING WIRE. The first step to instal Ting the hanging system is t screw four ‘hinged hangers othe back ofthe frame, see Figs. 9 and 10. Then string braided wire ‘through the hangers starting atthe bottom Tanger, see Fig. 90. "Now thread the wire through the top ‘hanger, lefthanger, and right hanger. Then ferminate the me back throug the top ‘hanger, and tc it of just as you did atthe bottom hanger, see Fig. ‘Note: When stinging the wire, make sure it’s ight. There should be about 1" slack in the section of wirethat hooks on the wall. Woodsmith aJIGS & FIXTURES Oval Cutting Jig Rowing tic a ino apertec oval (lips) requires a trammel But ‘ot the type you might normally expec. Mos trammels wing on one anchor point, allowing you to rout circle. But to rout an ‘val you needa amma hai sings onto anchor points ‘This Oval Cuting ig does justthat.Iteon sists ofa traramel platform that supports large vamnmelarm Attheend ofthearm sa frame that hols. router securely in place, see Exploded View ‘asthe am rotates around the platform, the two anchor points are working together tocontraltheoritofthe router. One anchor point controls the length ofthe ova (the Jonger distance across the ova), the other anchor point controls the width ofthe oval (the shorter distance across the oval) HOW TH 1G WORKS. Aa the router orbits the platform, the two anchor points chase ‘each other in a circular path. And while this is going on, they're ako sliding back and forthin seperate tracks that are perpendicu- larto each other, see photos above. OVAL REDEES. Thisjigallowsyoutodotwo things. You can rout the inside and outside edges ofan oval frame with the width ofthe frame being equal all the way around. Also, the jigs good for routing a complex profile fn the face ofthe frame (euch as a round- ‘ver or groove as show on page 20) 2G FEATURES. If you've ever routed a ‘moldingthat hasan ornate profile, ouknow that you have to change bits frequently. To make that easy with this jig the router is ‘mounted ona baseplate that swings upand down to allow easier access o the router's collet, tals lets you gradualy lower the bit into the workpiece atthe start ofeach pass. MATERIALS. Because many ofthe pieces on the jg either rotate or sige, used hard maple for mos ofthe part. The exceptions are the base and tramme piatform G4" ply \wood) and some V4" Masonite forthe ting base pate and a pair of shims Gor routing workpieces of diferent thickness). For sourees othardware, seepage 3 MATERIALS PARTS LIST TRAMMEL ‘A Pratform (1) Yeply- ex 11%, B Baseci) Saoy-36x48 © Gude Blocks (2) Sax Iaxd D sims Vax 2x2 TRAMMEL ARM. E frome éncs(2) Sax Yax Ole F Frome Sdesc) ax YaxB¥e G iting Bose Plato (1)* lax 834 x Bl2 H Tiling Boxe Ends 2) Sax ¥ax8i2 PwotBiocks(@) Hex 2x8 * Ure We thick Masonite REQUIRED SUPPLIES @ \e'x36"TrroadedtRods @)e20x ve Wing Nuts 20x Ve Nuts Qa) Ve Woshers @) Ne x212* Contoge Bots @ Ve lock Nuts (20)#8x 134 Fh Woouscrews No. 84TRAMMEL PLATFORM Whea designing this jig, a major considera tion waste size ofthe frameto be routed. ‘The tramme! platform has to be small enough to fit inside a gluedup blank. see ‘photos on oppositepage. Buttalsohasiobe large enough so there will be plenty of track forthe guide blocks (C) to travel ia, refer to Exploded :. (The following measure- ments are for the Oval Mirror on page 18 ‘They will also work for similar sized frames.) PLATFORM. The trammel platform (A) is cut from a piece of ¥i"thick plywood, see Fig. After the blankiscat to size, the next sep isto cut the track forthe guid blots. Here. took shghly diferent approach. Instead! of eutng the track in a“X" across the blank, I fist cut a 34" rabbet on all four edges oftheblank, see Fig. la. Then Lcut the ‘lank nto four squares, see Fig.2 ‘Now comes the difference I turned the four squares so the rabbets faced in- The rabbeted edges then create the tracks. ALIGNMENT BLOCKS. To help align the ‘squares on a base (B), first cut a 12"Jong rabbeted blank, see Fig. 3. (Later this blank will become the guide blocks.) Then cut the blank into two alignment block, see Fig. MOUNTING. To mount the platform, first cata base (B) from 34" thick plywood, and raw alignment marks onthe base, see Fig 4 Now postion a square on the alignment ‘marks and screw it in place, see Fig. 5. ext, butt the shorter alignment block up i the square and screw snother ‘square tothe base with the block snag be tneeen the squares, see Fig 5 ‘Tocomplete the platform, screwdown the last squaresin the same manner, see Fig. 6. GUIDE BLOCKS & SHINS. To make the guide blocks (C),cuttie9’-Jong alignment Block into two along pieces, see Fig. 7. "Note: Ifthe guide blocks are too tightin the track, lightly sand them. Then drill a counterbored hole through each guide block fora carriage bolt, see Fig. 7a. ‘When routing a frame thicker than 54", you'l need to shim up the tramume! arm so i Fidesflaton the workpiece being: the Oval Mirror I placed ¥4'hick shims (D) onthe guide blocks, see Figs. 7and&. No. 84TRAMMEL ARM ‘After the tram! platform is complete the ‘ext part to start werking ons the tramimel arm. This arm consists of a router carriage and two pivot blocks connected by threaded rods, see Fig. 13, The carriage supports the ‘router, the pivot blocks determinethe shape ‘ofthe ora. stated on the cariaze. camunce, When routing sn oval fame witha detaledproie, router btsneedtobe ‘hanged frequently. To make this @ quick rocess, the cariage is desgmed £0 that it anbetited yp—mahingitalotcasertoget ‘thecal ‘The carriage is actually a frame with a tilt- ing base to Hold the router. To build the fame, star by cating wo ends (E) and wo sides (F) fom /ehick sock se Fig. © Nexto accept the Uieaded ros, dil" holes near the ends ofeach frame end (5). Also dil countersunk hokes forthe wood Screw that hold the frame together TILTING BASE Afr the ame fs screwed together, tilting base plate (G)can becut trom Vihick Masonite see Fig. 10. To support the base plate within the frame, cut twotilting hase ends (H) tosize, see Fig. 10. Then aril aie. hoke fora threaded rod near one end of each pice. (Note: The hoe is located 4 up from the $ottom ofthe base end = ifs not centered onthe thickness.) There's one more step before the base ‘ends can be glued to the plate. To keep the ‘bottom of the plate flush with the bottom of the cariage ame, rout a W-deep rabbet slong two edges of the pate, sce Fig 10 Then ie the bse ends tothe ple SIP NOUNTING HOLES. Now remove the plastic base rom Your router, anduse asa {emplatetolocate the bitand screw holesfor ‘mounting your router tothe. see Fig 11 NoveH THE nase. After the holes are riled inthebase lato, there's nett tep on the tiking base before it's complete. To allow it to sit down on the threaded rod (see Fig. 13), notches have to be cut at one end of the base ends). To do this, ous rabbet onthe edge o9- roritethe Ve holes seeFig. 12, Note Vout Temove some of the Masonite base pate ‘when doing this That'sokay,) PIVOT ROCKS. The ast parts to make for the trammel arm are the pivet blocks (D), see Figs. 9and 3. ‘Aer cttng he Blacks tose dia dia hole inthecenterandtwo helesthrough the sides ofboth blocks, see Fig. 9.Note: The holes in the sides must align with the holes in the frame ends (E). ASSEMBLY. Finally, assemble all the wood parts, hardware. and tireaded rod for the ‘rammed arm, sce Fig. 1. Once the arm is completely assembled, attach the pivot blocks to the guide blocks with washers and Ioek nts 24 Woodsmith No. 84| Wan setting the rodins differ- SETTING UP THE JIG ‘One thing Hike about this Oval Cuting Jig is that tcan be used to cut ovals of different ‘Shapes and sizes. The same jig can be used to cut several combinations of tall, hort, ‘wide, or narrow ovals.Itall dependson how youset itup. When setting up the jig for 2 particular shape, keep in mind that the distance be- tween the frontpivotblock and therouterbit (shown as 1242" in Fig. 4) determines the aeidth across the oval. And the distance be- tween the back pivot block and the bit (shown as 1819" in Fig. 4) determines the engiteacross the oval ‘AN EXAMPLE, The key setup measure. ‘ments for the it are obtained from the d- ‘mensions of the oval frame you want to ‘make. Inthe case ofthe Oval Mirror shown ‘on page 18, the overall dimensions of the frame are 25" wide and 7" long. “The first step isto calculate the shape of the oval. To do this, fist divide both the with and length by two. This gives you the ‘minor and major radi ofthe oval, For the Oval Mirror, the minor radi ie i212" and themaior radius is 1812") Then subiractthe smaller number irom the larger number to come up with the radius differential. ln this caseit's6") ‘Now ajustthe pivot blocks sothey're the same distance apartastheradivsdifiereatil G6), see Fig. and Adjusting The Tram mel below. ‘Thelast epistoachus the jig for thevize ofthe ova. To do this, rove te router car- Fiage co the distance between the inside lege of the router bit andthe center ofthe front pivot block equals the radius of the ‘width (1242). (Measure from the center of the carriage bot inthe front pivot Block) DIFFERENT FRAMES. If you're designing aan oval frame that's cignifcantly different from the Oval Mirror, keep in mind the imi tations ofa jig built with the dimensions shown here. can only cut acertain shape and size frame. “The shape ofthe ova is limited to radius Aifereatial of4" to 6, see Fig. 15 Ifthe radius differentials less than 4” the guide blocks willrun into each other. And if the radius differential is greater than 6" the guide blocks willrun out of rack. "The sizeof the ovals linited by the size of the base and the length ofthe threaded rods. Build a larger jg and its possible to out a 40-oot frame. But you'd also need 40- foot long threaded rods. ad ential, mae sure you're using thedistance between the contors of thecormage tolts. Once the radius differential is ‘et, measure the distance be- thozen the pivot blocks to make sure they're parallel. Routing an oval frame with a complex profile requires that the ‘rowler carriage be moved back and forth along the threaded rods. ‘fer each adjustment, alweye check o make eure the carvioge ‘and front pivot block are parallel to each cher. No. 84 ‘Woodsmith 6IN THE WOODSMITH SHOP Quick Fixes Every woodworker will make mistakes from time to time, and the Woodsmith staff is no exception. The trick is coming up with solutions that work. LOOSE TENONS Por te best joint a tenon shontd fitamor- fiselikeahandinaglove. Butihat can you do ifthe tenon fits little loose? OPEN MITERS a Sometimes a miter joint doesn't close completely oritopens upafterthe project's been assembled. Is there any way tofir it? LIFTED VENEER doesn’ take a big problem to make a pro- Ject look bad. A piece of lifted weneer-can rnakea project look like it's falling apart. {WHere's a solution to the problem of loose tenons that works wellfor me. What Ido is enlarge the tenon with thin pieces ofvencer sliced fromapiece ofscrap.Igiue the veneer onto the cheeks ofthe tenon and shave or sand the enon to fithe mortise. ‘There's another way of doing the same thing. Ifthe tenon will be hidden ater as- sembly, leut e piece of brown paper froma ‘grocery bag to fit the tenon. Then Imoisten the paper with glue and wrap it around the tenon, Sometimes | use multiple layers of paper on an extrasloppy joint. Kon Munket Design Director WMiterscan be one afte trckiestjoatsto work with The troubles, i's easy to be off justalite bit whencuting amiter Orifthe Mier igeutrght there cansillbea gapatthe corneriftheframeisit assembled square. ‘As long as the mitered pieces fittogether welltobegin with, cloxethegap by bumish- ing (roling over the tip, see drawing. This ‘way the miters donithaveto berecut. But if the ater are to far out of align: ment.there'snotrmuchchoicebuttobreak™ the joint and start over by recating the sieces orassemblingrthe frame square. Ted Kraliok Crate Divan Tp repair lifted veneer ora cracked joint, use a “pressure gluing” technique. First I place a dab of glue atthe opening, then T ‘hoot the glue under the veneer with an air ‘compressor. This propels glue all the way under the veneer or into a deep crack. Inshallow cracks, | blow through a straw toforeethe glueunder the veneer, see draw- ing. After the area under a piece of veneer (orthe crackin anopenjoint) hasbeen illed with glue, itcan be clamped back in place whilethe giue dries. Jan Seo Designer Tighten « lowe fitting mortise and tenon, Joint by enlarging the ton. Cue craps af ‘wood tothe cheeks, then trim fr a goo ft ‘Open miters have many causes but one _good solution. Use the shank of a serew- ‘driver to “burnish” the miter tips closed. To get a piece of lifted veneer to lay down ‘and stay down means regluing. Blow a shotof glue under the crack witha straw. 26 Woodsmith No. 84ROUTER CHIPOUT Have you mer been routing the edge of @ ‘workpiece and heard an awful “crack?” Thats the sound of chipowt. There's two things you can do when you get chipout. you're lucky, youcan nd the broken-offchipand glue itbackinplace. But ‘fien the chip gets tom up too much or sucked up by the vacuum. “Then my colution is ike the trick used by old greens keepers onanasty dvot — frst enlarge the bad pet unt you're boc toun- damaged territory. Now patch te area with anew piece cut ot the hole, sce drawings ‘careflly select the filler piece for color and grain direction, so you can harcly tll that apiece chipped ott. Dowg Hicks Managing Editor Lv) Le 2 | Roun ‘us srr 10" waseer \ Achipped outedgecan berepaired by rout ‘ing way the damage and replacing it with ‘new wood. The key isacarefuleolor match. frm manner A straight bitin the router table can be used like a dentists drill torepair a chipped piece of wood. Enlarge the feavity” to remove damaged maueriatand provideastraigtedgetoaccepta fling.” Now glue an oversize filler strip into the routed edge. Sand or plane the top surface flush, then come back with the router and ‘repeat the original profile ee the drawing atthe top ofthis page. CRACKS & SPLITS Sometimes a crack will develop on a glue Joint after the project is complete. Wood filerian't the answer — theres a beter way Ml¢’snot unusual to see an edge glued table top —or any project —split apart because of wood movement caused by changes i hhunsdity. Here's how Ihandle the problem. First 1 cut the split panel apart right through the crack. This relieves any built-up. stress on the crack line. Then T glue the pieees back together and clamp them tight. ‘T would not use wood patty ina situation like this — putty wont expand or contract like the wood, And ifthe wood does expand Inter the pity can be forced out ofthe joint. ‘Steve Curtis ‘Shop Manager ‘Alorack or eplitshouldn' be patched with ‘prty, Instead, continue the erack with a ‘machine cut. Then re-glue the twoedges. ‘There are two ways to repairacrack, [the panel is a manageable vze, Stove wove the (able saw torip through the split joint line Onalnperpinas ahead tote a straight bit works just as well. To min. {mize the loss of material, use the smallest ‘onter bit possible. Then re-giueand clamp the boards back together. Ifthe panel hasto Ddethe sxe width, addawood “iller"strip. No. 84 Woodsmith aTOOLS, H« many times have you started to work on a router table and wondered which way to feed the ‘woriepiece? Or how fast to feed i? When Tm about to use the router table, | stop and think about these two questions. FEED DIRECTION. The most important thing inusing arouter tableisto always have control of the workpiece, And the way 10 do this when routing an edge is. to feed the workpiece into the rotation of the see Fig. 1 Since the bit is spinning counterelock ‘wise. feeding the workpiece from righttoleft (into the rotation) causes the bit to pull the ‘workpiece ngainst the fence, see Fig. la you're notusing a fence, and the bit has | a bearing oni, feeding the workpiece from right to left hus the same effect — the bit plls the workpiece against the bearing. BACKROUTING. Feeding the workpiece from let to right, called backrouting,can be disastrous, see Fig. 2. When backroutingthe bit ean grab the workpiece, push it away | rom the fence or bearing, and out of your — not with the rotation, TECHNIQUES hhands. Or, if you're still hanging onto the ‘woricpiece, pull your fngersinto the bit. ANOTHER DANGER Another technique that's just as dangerous is placing the work. jece betwen the bit and the fence, see Fig. you're routing from right to let, the bit will grab the workpiece and pulit (and your Singers if they're sil holding on) right on through the bit and send it fying out the other side ofthe router table. SUOTS & GROOVES. One thing Ilike about usinga router tableisiteuts acleaner slot or ‘groove than a table saw. But when routing.a slotoragroove, theres one thing you must always keep in mind — if you widen the & Jigs Router Table Tips sroove,alwaysmakessarethe bit is cutting on the edge of the sxroowe closest to you. see Fig 4a, Thisway, the bl issafely pull ingthe workpieceintothe fence. Iyourout dhe other edge, he ‘same thing will occur as when placing the workpiece between, the bit and the fence, the work: piece (oF your hands) will get pulled through thebit. FEED RATE. A normal ten. dency when using a router table is to be cautious and feed the workpicce slowly. But, ifthe workpiece is {ee too slowly the wood can burn, The best way to determine ifthe wood is ‘going to burn isto rout a piece of the same type of wood before you rout your actual workpiece. (L use a piece of scrap irom my project.) Then, once you've got an idea what feed rate it wil take to get a clean eut, rout the workpieceat the same rte LIGHT PASSES. Another technique to re- duce buming (and increase control is to rout the profile in two or three passes, rais- ing the bit or moving the fence slightly be- tween passes. This technique helps reduce ‘chipoutas well 2 Woodsmith No. 84AUXILIARY FENCE ‘When using aroter table, tean be dificult to predic just where and whea chipou wll coeur. IPS most likely to be a problem in wood having imegular grain suchas around _tknotor where the grain makesa sharptum towards the edge ofa boar. Buc Tve seen a chip break off even when the gran seemed fay straight. 1E'm faced with a chipout problem that cantbeeliminated byadinsting the feed rate ‘routing in multiple passes, then attach zero cearancenmtsilarytencetomyrouter table fence, see Fi. BACKING BOARD. The Key tothe zero- clearance fence is ¢ disposable backing ‘ard that sight around the bit see Figs Sand 6. Whe the router bit cuts with the zero-clearanee fence in place, the wood fibers along the routed edge are supported by the backing board, This way. the fers shear ff cleanly — they don't chip out. MINIJOINTER To make the jig even more versatile, Ladded another feature that turns ‘your table intoa “min jointer,"sce Fig. 7-Byadding anadjustable ctfeedsidetothe ssuiliary fence, lean use a traight bit ojoint (Gtaighten and smooth) the edges of sal boards. When cdgejointing, Mleaveotthe tacking board) BUILDING THE FENCE ‘Theauailiar fence is made from "shiek stood and ict Monod, eo 5 removab board aad the inside edges ofthe Masonitefaces aecutat complementary 45° angles, see Fig. 9. This allows the backing board to abide in place land “lock” behind the faces. Because each backing boardis used only ence, make ex trasas fm making the frst one} The infeed (righthand) half of the Max sonite face is giued onto the plywood, see Fig.5,Dutthe adjustable outed faceforthe tdkge inter shel in place by four machine screws in threaded isserts, Whea the ig is used 28.2 2erociearance fence, the screws are tightened allthe way down. seTuP To set up the zeroclearance fence, first clamp it to your router table fence without the backing board), se Fig. 6 Then adjust the fence and bitto cut the heightand width youwant. Once the profile i set. the next stepis to install the backing board, ‘TERO.CLEARANCE OPENING. The dis: ‘posable backing boards are customized for ‘each routerbit. Todo this, turnoathe router and plunge the backing board down on the spinning bit, see Fig. 6a. (To make the plunge possible itmay be necessary for you {tonotch out the center ofthe backing board for any bit with a bearing or a large bit) As the backing board is plunged down, the router bit will automatically cut the zero- clearance opening. Ifyou readjust the router table fence (or the router ti) theclearance betweenthebit and the backing board may change. If this ‘occurs, just insert anew board Safety Note: Beforeturning on the router, ‘always slide the backing board up and out of the way ofthe bit. Because ofthe 2ero clear ‘ance, the cutter on the bit may jam against the edge ofthe backing board. Once the backing board is in place, rout the workpiece from right to left, cross the bitin the usual manner JOUNTER sti. To convert the zero-clear ance fence into an edge joiner, frst loosen the screws andinserta thin shimbehind the outfced side of the V4" Masonite face, see Fig. 7. (Luse poster board for ashim.) Once the shim is in position, tighten down the ‘screws to keep tin place, Now adjust the router table fence so the ‘outside edge ofthe straight bits tush with the outfeed face of the auxiliary fence, seo Fig. 7a Ifyouwantto make a deepercutwith cach pass, insert additional shims. But remem- ber, readjusttherouter table fence. SS The koy tothe zero-cloarancefenee isa disposable backing board. The tacking board is plunged on the bil to create a perfect ft cermendtheeutters.Asthe workpiece is routed, the wood fibers are ‘sheared off leant aguinst the backing boon — without chipout To convert a router table into a *mini” edge jointer first insert a shim behind the outfeed face ofthe auriliary fence. Then adjust the fences the faceis lush withthe outside edge ofthe straight bit To makea deeper cul, aid another shimand readjust the fence. No. 84 ‘Woodsmith 29SPECIALTY TOOLS Removing Screws The easiest way to remove a broken or damaged screw is to use a screw extractor. ne of the most frustrating problens you're likely (0 faceasa woodworker sn' really woodworking at all — it's ng broken screws. Fortunately, there isa way 10 remove serews that can make the job a fot less frustrating — using a screw extractor. There are wo kinds ofextrac- tors: spiral fute extractors and hollow bit extractors. Each of these tools works differently. Spiral flute extractors can be ised to remore a screw with a damaged (Gtripped) slot, as well as 2 screw with a ‘brokenoif head. They get their name from thespirallluteon thetaperedend, seephoto. ‘These extractors work by driving the end into a hole drilled in the damaged screw. ‘Then the extractor is backed out — taking: the screw withit, see drawings below. UNDAMAGED SCREW HOLE. The advan- tage to using « spiral ute extractor is that ‘you can get the screw out without damaging the screw hole. So you can immediately re place the screw with 2 new one. DRAWBACKS. Unfortunately, these extrac tors can only be used on No. 8 and larger ‘crews. Tislimits their usefunessin wood- SPIRAL FLUTE EXTRACTORS Using a spiral flute extractor is 0 teo- ‘step process. First, drili a pilot hole inlothe damaged or broken serew Next, hammer the extractor into the pila hole. Then ‘grasp the extractor twith a wrench and turn it counter. clockwise, Since it’s tapered, the spiral flutes quickly jam ‘inthe pilot hole. As you continue to turn the extractor, it ‘hacks out the screw. working where smaller screws are com- monly used. (Each extractor removes just (ne size screw. They're usually sold 2s a set of diferent sizes, see Sources, page 31.) Another possible drawback isthe need to della pilot hole. Ifthe head of a screw is, broken off, tcanibe hard tostarta plot hole Asc, many screws on the market today are made of hardened steel. I's nearly im- possible to drill a hoe in a hardened steel Screw, such as 2 drywall sorew. So, in this ‘ase, there's another system you can use. HOLLOW BIT ‘This other system doesn't require a pilot hole. The extractor isa hollow dil bit that ‘The hollow bit es- tractor removes orows into wey. I the broken screw fits inaide the bit, ‘then the extractor drillsacore withthe ‘serew inside. Buc ifthe broken ‘sorew is to0 large fitinside the hollow ‘it, then the teeth on the bit engage the [ ‘sorew. Since the bit is driven in reverse, ‘the broken screw is backed out of the wood a2 the bit ‘orate itand turns. works almostlikean apple corer. It looks like a short ste! tube with teeth at both ends, see Dhoto. (When the teeth on one ‘end wear out, you can use the other end.) ‘WORKS “IN REVERSE." The holiow bit extractor is used in a portable drill that can be reversed: it cant be used in. a drill press. I's driven in reverse down aver the end of a broken screw, see drawings below. ‘The hollow bit removes serews ia ane of two ways de- pending on the diameter of the broken screw. ifthe shank is small enough tofitinside the hollowrbit,then the extractor drills out a core with the broken screw in- Side, (The holeis filled with a dowel) But ifthe broken screw is too large to ft inside the holowbit,thenthe teeth ofthe bit engage the screw. Since the bit is driven in reverse the headless screw isbacked out of the wood as the bit grabs itand tums. [REMOVES SMALL & LARGE SCREWS. These hollow bit extractors are available in three (outside) diameters, ¥4', Ye, and 9", see page 21. So they can remove the sizes of Screws most commonly used by wood workers. The hole made by the bit needs to be plugged with a dowel. HOLLOW BIT EXTRACTORS 30 ‘Woodsmith, No. 84PROJECT SUPPLIES Sources ROCKING CHAIR Woodsmith Project Supplies is offering a set of fullsize pat terns for the Rocking Chair shown on page 6. Included are pattems for the back legs, hack Tails, rockers, angled side rails, ‘arms, arm supports, and seat. W8005-220Rocking Chair Patter on 195 To drill the mortises for the Rocking Chair, we used special mortsing bitson the drill press. ‘These bits are similar to For siner bits. but they have a long flute to pallall the chips out ofa mortise Woodsmith Project Sup- plies is offering three sizes of thesebits. (You need a 4" and bits forthe Rocking Chair.) Weteamoferinesetcttres Special hurdvare wo bull: After building the frame, we had Jocal glass shop cut an ¥8"thick oval shaped mirror to fit the rab- betinthe back side. (Note: Have the shop cut the mirror about ‘We undersizeallaround tomake sure it will ft and allow for any ‘expansion andcontractionin the ‘wood ) We paid $42.00 for the ‘va ror. ‘Woodsmith Project Sup- plies is offering a kit of harc- ‘ware jomountand hang the mir ror as shown on page 2. W784-100 Oval Mirror Hanging it... $899 *(16) No.7 Push (4) Self Adhesive Bumpers, Yr Square *(4) Brass Hinged Hangers, 116" long, with ¥2" Screws (2) Brass Wall Hooks w/Fins. OVAL CUTTING JIG To make the Oval Cutting Jig shown on page 22, ygull need a variety of hardware that's com monly available at most home ‘centers and hartiware stores. Woodsmith Project Sup- plies has also put together a kit ‘of all the hardware needed to builelthe Oval Cutting ig. (Not ‘The wood isnotincluded.) W784.200 Oval Cutting Jig Hardware Kit $099 #2) Vi'-20.56" Threaded Rods #2) Va" x 207 Carriage Botts = (14) Vat Washers: #2) V4 Lock Nuts #8) Y4tNats #4) ve Wing Nuts +20) No. 8 x 1M" Fh Wood- screws sane .TI07 BY PHONE our Toll On page 17, we talked about using an adjustable tiangle to accurately set up a miter gauge oma table saw. Adjustable tian ‘lescan be purchased stlocalart and drafting supply stores for about $15 to $26. Or from the sources below. On page 30 we talked about t¥o different types of screw extrac- tors. The spiral type is available from many hardware stores, Sears also as a five-piece set in aplastic case (No. 67322) avalls- ble at their retail stores. The Sears Tool Catalog aso offers a tenpiece set (No. 20616) thatin- cludes both serew extractors ‘and matching drills. ‘The hollow bit serew extrac. tors are availabe in three sizes G4", Yio", and 54) from Trend- Lines, see below. Woodsmith Project Supplies is offering these extractors in Vi"and 3. W1101-325 1" Fellow Bit Screw Extractor: $1295 W1101-327 54" Hollow Bit Screw Bxtractor anean.- $14.95 Carbidesipped router bits used tobuild the projects in thisiseue are available (rom Woodsmith Project Supplies. Order the shank size to ityour router. WI514-605 Wsraich Bit G4"shank) Wisiaed8 wSinieht it 4" shank) W1512.665 14 Straight Bit Ge stank), $12.95 W1514-643 18) Straight Bit 4 Sha en $1389 W1512.676 12 Straight Bit Bit shank... $2395 W1512-821 Yi? Round Over Bit G2" shank 95 (W1514-400 ting Bit 4" shank... $24.95 W1512-450 4 Rabbeting Bit 2" shank) $2695 W1514-72454' Core Box Bit ei shank). $2285 W1512-733 54 Core Box Bit (shank)... $20.85 ‘Wg ROUND-OvER Tomake the profile shown on page 24 for the Oval Mirror. you'll need a special router bit. It’s 2 Vi" round-over without a bearing. ‘On page 17, we've shown how toremoveabearing froma high speed steel Sears router bit (No, 25908), and reshape the bit soit ‘can belowered into the work. Another option is to purchase abit made for this purpose. Cas- cade Tools (see below) offers carbidetioped 4" roundover bitswithouta bearing thatcan be lowered onto a workpiece. ‘The ‘order aumbers are C1319 i" sshank) and C1323 (42" shank). MAIL ORDER SOURCES Similar harteare and supplies may be found in the following ‘catalogs Please call each compans fora catalog or information. To order by mail, wsethe form For fastest enclosed Teh Gio clcrent ‘Teese | Cmca Tot ne “re Wongnomar’ Sere Garret Wade eceatie| peter meee eke ped ces ie eee Tee y, 7:00 AM to Plunging Ronn cr eH Before cating. camsmaionterte HENS wostrting tej wit Aisa oD | pease, Ee Cee Heri" pti aries Wooden Poke (feo Aare toe Mei GM, ae i eee Woodert a ince TR S006 Note: Prices subject to change | ic! Rendtowes: ‘RZE>-1153 — after February 1993. Peco Pronetienges gro BiRender SO? No. 84 Woodsmith 31A LAST LOOE Final Details Oval Mirror A The oval frame around this mirror starts out as eight short pieces of walnut joined with splined miters. The oval ‘shape, and.alsothe decorative profile,are cut witha router. A Quartersawn white oak givos thie Rocking Chair the look (fan antique. The arm rests are strengthened by a bracket that's tenomed into both the front lag and tho arm rest iteelf. Zero-Clearance Insert A The cizeofthe ovalie controlled by adjusting the position ofthe router base along a pair of threaded rods. The shape ofthe oval ia determined by the elidingrunnerain the center. Router Table Jointing z = AA router bit is less likely to cause chipout if it has a customeshaped throat opening. Here, « piece of Masonite awith beveled edges slides tightly intoanauriliary fence. 32 Woodsmith 4 By mounting a split fence to the router tabe, it can be sed with « straight bit asan edge jointer. The ulfeed side ofthe fenceis shimmed so1ts flush with the edge of the bit. No. 8+