NO.79 «NOTES FROM THE SHOP Bee ea “Woodsmith Feature Projects: DESK CLOG IN/OUT BOX © | Tool Review . SHOULDER PLANESEDITOR” COLUMN Sawdust hhat do you think about the new ook? This is our firet full-color issue of Woodsmith. Up to now, ‘Woodemitk has been printed in two colors (brown and black) on abui-colored paper. Te always wanted to be ableto show the projects in color but t seemed like a big change. One thing Tve found over the years isthat woodworkers usually have opinions, and area't reluctant to express them. So, Whenever someone would drop by the of fice fora tour, or Td be at a woodworking show, Pé ask, “What do you think about Woodsmith being printed in ful-color?” ‘The answer was almost alwaysthe same, wanted to see what acolor ver Printed some special epies of one ise in fullcolor and sect it to 1,000 readers for a Sidehyside comparison with the regular ‘woxoko version "Again, almost everyone agreed ... but this time they said they Hked the color ver sion better. infact, S15 said they preferred thefilleaforversonto the woealo) ‘Why this big changein attude? I think that fullcolor magazine caries with it certain percepions. White glossy paper. Advertising. And maybe increased costs Nobody wanted those things. "ustincase you're wondering we will not be increasing the cost of subscription be- ‘cause of this move to color. (I's more de- pendent om future increases in postage and aper costs) And we will definitely not cary any advertising in Woodsmith, (Al though wewill have some advertising inthe ‘Sourcebook that comes with your issue.) Tdidn'tmeanto spend. ot otime aking about thisnew color ook. butt iell the truth, [wish we had done ita long time ago. Trea ket see the projects in color. ‘OLD WAYS. Sometimes moving fo & new way of doing things good. Bat there are times when the old ways ar silthe best. 1 like our move to color to show off the pro- jects. But when it comes to working inthe ‘hop, [dor'twantto give up my hand planes. ‘With all the new tools on the market today (most with motors on thet), {stil think hand planes can’t be reptaced. We Ifyou haver't tried using one of these planes, its worth the time to experiment ‘with one, 1 can almost guarantee that it ‘wont be long before you get enthusiastic about working with planes, 1 doa't mean to sound too romantic, but ‘having good set ofhand planesand know ing how to use themisone ofthe real oysol ‘woodworking. ese We waniedto sartofTour 4th year with a great project. The Pedestal Desk is ‘one Tvebeen wanting to build for years. 1's ‘quite a project, and takes agood bitof time to.complete. ae ‘The interesting part of a major project like this is that it doesnt really require a tremendous amount of skill Eech step, ‘when broken down, is farty easy to accom plish. But what this project does require is Ccommitinent. There'salot of work hereand you justhave to keep ‘TECHNIQUE. Probably the most intrigu- ing technique in this issue is the one we used onthe In/Out Box to make the round- comered box joints. Ted figured out a way to make a true sounded corner on box joints, That i, the ‘comers rounded on the outside hat’ the easy part), but is also rounded on the in side (ee page 18). 'NEW FACES, [have to mention the color ‘hotosinthisisoue one more time. There: ‘Son is our new staf photographer. Crayola England. You've actually seen Crayols's ‘work for the past couple of years. (She's been working on a freelance basis with “Ted)) But ith the addition of ournew pub- Ication, ShopNotes, and the expansion of -the Sourcebook, we've asked her to join us full me. Everyone asks, so I have to say that Crayola her real name) ‘owns, With this issue, we begin cur th year of publishing Woodemith, Each year err required by the US. Post Office {oprintthe Publisher's Statement (sce page 2), Ae shows that we've grown quite & it during the pas year Lest year we averaged bout 22,600 circulation, and this year t's ‘up to about 952,000. It seems a lot more people ae getting interested in woodwork ing, We're glad tbe partof that gromh and thinkitwillcontinue inthe future NEXT MAILING. The next issue of Wood- hhave an article in this issue on shoulder _emith (No.0) will bemailed during the lact planes and their uses. ‘week in March I Woodsnith ' No.79A LOOK INSIDE Contents Fqueen) (B] Great tips from fellow wood [Tips & Techniques | |A) rrr. 1) Table Saw Jointing “rosseut Jig. 8) Putty Knife Scraper WGrinding Stop Gauge. 5) Two Quick Tips. 6) Scroll Saw Tips. This desk is a classic that has it Pedal Des I a: sotid onk frames with oak plywood panels, dovetail drawers, a large file drawer, and a top with in- laid walnut strips. There's even an optional vanity panel. z Gia] 1 Cutting a Coped Joint. 2) Shop- [Shop Notes = A OG) rade Drawer Pulls [JQ] Bor-joined corners onthisdesk box ee (1B cre roncied over on both the out. side and the inside to produce t of bent fingers. It’s an interesting tion on a basic joinery technique. e effec [SiguldcePlancgnn) [Da] These specialty hand planes can SSS IB) roctuce tight flting jotuts by pick ing up where machines leave off. We dis cuss how to set up a shoulder plane and then use it. And, some recommendations onwhich ones are best for your purposes. i ] 1) Hand Plane Numbering Sys- Talking Shop 2G) tems. 2) Tipe on Using Double Sided Carpet Tape in the Shop. 3) Router Bit Maintenance. [Desk Clock mn) (a) Hidden inthe baseofthis miniature Brarchitectural timepiece is a storage chamber for business cards or desk items. It'sa great weekend project [ST [Gil Hardware and project supplies CAN UY cia for tho projcta tn ta ose Pedestal Desk In/Out Box Desk Clock page 28 No. 79 WoodsmithFROM FELLOW WOODWORKERS Tips & Techniques TABLE SAW JOINTING Because dort havea iter Teould never eut a perfect ele on boards when edge-guing — un Teame up witha Cece aer el sharp saw blade. Tip the mating eiges ofthe Yards at the same time using the tble caw, see Fig. 1. This way, if the saw blade is not set ‘exactly at 90°, any deviation wil besplit between the two edges. Todo this, frstrough-cut the pieces to within 1 of final width, but cut the lengths over- sized. Then place the boards ‘edge-o-edge as you want them tobe arranged in the panel. Next, tack 2 cleat to the ends of each board so that they're held togethersightly.see Fig. 1a, Uf the wood is smooth, you could use double-sided carpet tape instead ofthe nails.) “Then, withthe blade ust high ‘enough to cut into the cleat, saw right through the joint, see Fig. 1, Ripping the two edges to ether enstres that both edges ‘illmatch up perfectly. Filly, remove tecleats and sue up the boards. Then, aller the glue fs dry, cut the pane to lengtinto remove the nail hoes. ‘Gaylord Anderson Carbondale, Kaneas 1 CROSSCUT JIG The ripping jig shown in Woodsmith No. 70 came in handy when Iwas ripping some crooked walnat recently. But 1 also needed an accurate way to cross-cut some of the longer pieces. (Idon' have aradial arm saw) Tosolve ths, used some ofthe ideas from the ripping fiz tomake a crosscutting ig. ‘The erosscuttingjig has hree parts, a%4".thick plywood sled, 2 plywood fence, and a hardwood runner, see Fig. 1. To hold longer pieces of tock on the jg, lusedtwo ofthehold downs were featured in Woodsrath No. 70, see Fig. 1a. But toggle claraps would work just as well, seeFig. Th, Imade the sled deep enough tohandle 4 12'wide board, see Fig. 1 And the length of the sled is long enough to support long workpieces, but the overall di mensions ensure that most of the sled’s weight remains se- curely on the saw table, “The 4¥7wide fence is cut to the same lengthas the sled. Leut thefence wide enovghto accom tmodlate the heal on the held. down clamps. ‘Now, insteadofwrestling with along board against a miter ‘gauge, Lcan push the sled and the workpiece through the saw blade together. BarnettC, Howard Siatera, Orogon No.79PUTTY KNIFE SCRAPER I prefer to finish my wood- working projects with a cabinet scraper rather than sandpaper. Buta cabinet scraper can be tr- ing to hold, especially when ‘working on a large project. To ‘getaround this problem, [made 4 cabinet scraper trom a putty knife, see Fig. 1 “The large handle of the putty Ieife makes ithe tring to hold the scraperand easierto control, ‘The only trick to using a putty knife as a scraper is to buy one with a heavy duty blade that ddgesa’ flex much, I sharpen the ledge at 45° and then turn over Gburnish) a cutting edge, see Fig. ta “The result I get with a putty knife scraper isjust os good as ‘et with a traditional scraper. Joseph W. Gibson TV Gaithersonrg, Maryland GRINDING STOP GAUGE WM lalwayshad troublemaintsin- After the tool estis set tothe ing the proper pressure against correct grinding angle, Camp a the grinding wheel while grind- smallCclamptothechisel shaft, ing chisels. And each time Lre- see Fig. 1a The C-clamp eliminates hhavingto gauge thecorrectpres- sure each time the chieel is placed onthewheel.Alll do now moved the chisel to dip it in water and then back to the srinder, I had trouble gauging where I let off grinding. But I discovered trick thathelps—I__is push the C-clamp up against use stopthat positions the cul- thetoolrestandlowerthechisel. ting edge againstthewheel each Robin Coggerhall time, see Fig Fouler, Minis aout oF purr ware ‘AiO ANGLE OF BLADE CREATE A "SCP Too QUICK TIPS Mor years I've used water- stones to hone my chisels. But the more [used them, the more they became “dished” down the center. Finally, the waterstones became useless, Rather than throw them out, Teame up with an easy way to flatten them so they can be reused. “To do this, | use my concrete garage floor, but any flat con Grete surface would werk. discovered that if1 place a ‘small amountoffine sand on the floor, and then gently rub the stone back and forth over the sand, it can be quickly ground fatonceagain. Lester Babeoek Rockford, Michigan MDUNG CONTAINERS Recently Ineeded to mixup a ‘small amount of epoxy glue. ‘While I was searching for some. thing to mix tin, I found an old plasticice cube tray thatmy wife ‘was about to throw away. ‘The individual cubicles in the tray are just the right size for sing small amounts of epoxy. When I'm finished with the epoxy, Tjust cutoff Une used cu- bicleand throw itaway. Also, when doweling or gluing small pieces, its easiest to pour some glue in a cubicle and dip the piece inthe gue. Vellow and white glue can be washed out and the cubiclereused. William Haran Lebanon, Oregon Recently, two reatlers wrote ‘and told ushow they've made it more enjoyable to use their scroll saws. Wayne Dragish of Limsood, Pennsylvania places a router pad under his scroll saw to help et down on the noise and vibration. These pads are sold at woodworking retail Stores and through most wood- ‘working mail order catalogs. ‘The pad also saves him time. Instead of clamping the scroll saw down to the workbench, he st places it on top of the pad. pad keeps the saw from ‘moving around the workbench. Ted Routson of Milwaukie, Oregon shared with us a tiphe discovered whenthe diaphragm that pumps air across his scrall ‘saw table stopped working. Instead of tearing his saw aparttogetattheolddiaphragm, he attached an aquarium pump tw the origina air hose. It dears ‘away just enough sawdust from the biade to provideaciear view ‘ofthe cutline—anareaabout 1" indiameter. No. 79 Woodsmith.HEIRLOOM PROJECT Pedestal Desk The symmetry of this desk makes the building process straight-forward — the pedestals are identical and so are the drawers. And an optional file drawer and vanity panel let you fit the desk to your need: baad already built this Pedestal Desk from working drawings, when Rod. our assistant art director owed me the Exploded View (on the opposite page) That's when I got worned. The Exploded View looks complicated —evea more complicated than the desk Td just bat But then { realized one of the great pedestal desks its symmetry. The pedestals are cal, the panels are identical, even the drawers are the same. Sobuildingapedestaldeskrequiresaletofrepet: tivecuts Its not basic construction that inspired me to mal this Pedestal Desk, its the classic design. This des looks like a pedestal desk of a hundred years ago. But some ofthe joinery techniques and materialsare new. JOINERY AND WOOD. For example, I used stub tenon and groove joinery to make the side and back frames. It locks ikethe frameand pane joinery ofahundred years ‘ago. And the oak veneer plywood for the panels wasnt ‘around tha longaago either. Butin combination withthe Sold oak base and frames, it has the traditional look, xer dimensional stabiliy. (ONS. One of the things you're as likely to need ‘asa century ago isa file drawer. So we show how tomake this desk with one (or as many 2s four) Another option iva vanity panel, ee photoon page encloses th ce between the pedestalson the back ofthe desk. While i may keep others from seeing your scuffed up shoes, its probably better for keepin ‘our legs warm ina drafty oom. Inany case, the varity panel also makes the desk seomlarger and more formal MATERIALS LIST. The Materials List and Cutting ‘gram are on page 15. And sourees forall the hardware are listed on page 31 Woodsmith No. 79EXPLODED VIEW OVERALL DIMENSIONS: ~ 3078" x 30"D x 61"W. PEDESTAL BASES [began work on the desk by making the ‘bases forthe pedestals, Bach base is made up of four pieces — 1"thick kickboard fronts/backs (A) and "stick kickboard sides (B), see Fig. 1. (Since the deck has two pedesials make four ofeach piece.) BADOES. The base pieces are joined with tongue and dado joins. The dadoes areaciu- ally saw kerfscut across the inside faceofthe ociboard fronts and backs (A). To do this, adjust the rip fence on the table saw so the distance from the outside ofthe bladeto the fence equals the thickness of the side pieces G4), Now set the bladeto cut Ya! deep, and (B), see Fig. a. Once the tongues are cut, thebbases canbe glued together, see Fig. 1 ‘ROUND CORNERS. A typical design feature ‘ona desilike this is large rounded comers. x To round the comers, start by drawing a 1" radius arc om the comers, se Fig. 1a. Then rough cut the comers on the band saw and ‘sand them smooth ROUT OGEE. The ast step in making the basesis to rout anogeeonthetopedges, see Fig. 1b. Todo this, mounta V4" Roman ogee bitin therouter table. Then withthetopedge ofthebasedown on the routertable, routthe ogee on the outside edges ofall four sides. Woodsmith 7PEDESTAL SIDES AND BACKS Once the pedestal ‘bases are complete, the next step is to make the frame and panel units for the pedestal sides and back. This is a sys- tematic process — each of the side and ‘back panel units ie made the same way, ina series of repetitive steps. RAILS, STILES & MUNTINS Begin the process by cutting eight picces of ¥¢ stock forthe side upper (D) and lower rails (E) to leagth, see Fig. 2. Thea cut the four pisces for the back upper (I) and ower rails (J) to length ‘The twelve stiles (C,H) forall the frames are the samelength (2744"),see Fig. 2. Bach ‘ofthe framesis divided by one ortwo vertical ‘muntins (F,K). Andallofthese muntinsare ‘also the same length (2154"), see Fig.2.So iecescutto finished length, the next step is to rip the pieces to finished width. All the ‘upper rails, muntins, and back panel stiles are ripped tothe same width (2¥2"), se Fig 2.Theside panel iles are ripped alte nar rower (2). And, finaly, the lower rails are ripped wider G¥2", GROOVES AND STUB TENONS ‘Afterall the frame pieces have been cut to finished size, they can be joined together with stub tenon and groove joints. (For a detailed explanation of stub tenon and ‘groove joinery, sce Woodemith No. 74.) CUTTING THE GROOVES. To begin the join- ‘ery first cut a ¥4"deep groove on the inside ‘edge ofall ofthe sles and rails. and onboth edgesofthe muntins, sec Figs 2,2b,and2. Centerthe grooveson the thickness ofthe workpiece, and cut the grooves the sathe ‘Width asthe thickness of the plywood that willbe used forthe panels (14" plywood is ‘esualy les than VA" thick). the table saw with the rip fence postioned ‘4 from the outside ofthe blade. To deter mine the height ofthe blade, T used a test Piece the samethicknessas te actual work Bleces, Sneak up onthe height, cuting on both sides ofthe test piece tnt the tenon jst fits the grooves ‘Once the tenon on the test piece fits, tenons can be eut on the ends of the mune tins (se Fig. 20) andthe rail (se Fig. 20) PLYWOOD PANELS. After the stub tenons and grooves have been cut on the frame ‘ices. thenextstepistocutthe 4" plywood panels (G and L) that Bt inside the frames, ‘The plywood panels are all eut the same length a the muntin. To determine the ‘width ofallthe panels Idryassembleda side frame and back frame, see Fig. 2. Then ‘measure the distance from groove to groove anid cutthe plywood panes tot. {ASSEMLY. With the plywood panes cut to size, the fame and pane! units can be ar sembled. Make sure the four side units are ‘Cutall he muntins to this length ‘STUBTENONS. Allthe stub tenons are cut identical in size, and that the wo back units RIPTO WibTH. With cllthe pedestal frame the same way and at the same time. Tused are identical as well, 2 ‘PEDESTAL BACK PEDESTAL SIDE (KE TWO) 1 a Woodsmith No.79CONTINUED ‘A tis point the major components ofthe desk, the base and panelnits, are complete Butbefore these unitscanbe assernbledinto the pedestals, joints need to be eut on each unt so they fi together and onto the base. RABUETS. The side and back units ft in- Side the top ofthe pedestal base by means of farabbet at the botiom of the units, refer to igs 3aand3e, and Fig. 6 onthenest page) Arabbet joints also used to join the sides to the backs, see Fig 3. Tocut the rabbeis,jused adado Blade on the table saw. (Note: Toavoidchipont, fst cat the shouiders with @ crosscut blade) ‘Startby cuttngtherabbets onthe loweroute side edge of each unt, see Fig. 3a and 3c. ‘Then movetherip fence and cutarabbeton theinside face ofthe back stiles, see Fig. 3b. ROUND. OVERS. To complete the work on the back units, rout a V2" round-over onthe side cage of the back sfles, see Fig. 3b. ‘Then the back units canbe set aside untits time for assembly. ‘DADOES. When the rabbets and round- are complete, dadoescan becuton the inside ofthe Sides forthe drawer runners. To cut these, fst setup a S4'-wide dado blade to cut 16" deep. Then lay out the ‘bets on the top edge ofthe drawer sides for the hanging file folders se Fig. 1a. ‘Next.cuta Yx’-thick spacer (AA) Va wide ‘and glie thisbetweentwodrawer fronts (U), ‘see Fig. 2. Then attach the false froat to the ‘Graver, and then insall the drawer in the ‘pedestal with the extension sles. No.79 WoodsmithWhoo a the drawers are built, yout preb- aby want to test themin the pedestals But don't expect them to fit properly the first time. Several agjusments hae to be mace Inorder for the drawers to slide casily —and also look good — they have to iti three directions — side to side, top to bottom, and frontte hack, see Fig 12 SIDE TOSIbE. To fica drawer side to side, check the gapbetween the Graver cidesand the drawer guides (Q). There should be 2 Slight gap on each sds — enough fo allow the drawer to move in ard out without bind- ing, sce Fig 14 ii there’ no gap. o ithe gaps too nar row, the guides need to be removed and Dlanedto ft. you dopiane the mudes pane fach guide an equal amount. Then screw them back in andtest the ftagain ‘Tor To BorToM. Now check the distance above each drawer frontwhen the drawer is in the closed position. It wil probably be about Vs To create a uriform Vis" gap hove and below the drawer font T stick Seltadesive nylon gid stip tothe ep of the runners, see Fig. 13. The strips do two things: theyeven atthe gap, andthey make thedraversside cas. TRONT TO ACK. When the drawer is closed the éraver Font shoulssick ut 38? fromthe face rune, see Fig. 14 Thismeans you can see the entire mad eg ofthe drawer front butthe doves aren vsbie To prevent the éraver from sliding in further, glued small top block (R) onto the runner behind the drawer, see Fig. 15. INSTALLING THE STOP MLO. To make k casero poniten the drawer whilnstaling the stop block. I made a simple L-shaped gauge Soe baxabove. ARCHED SUPPORTS To help position the drawers in the pedestals, I made a special gauge. The aug ist apiece of -ticcserap cto ‘an “L” shape. The “foot” of the gauge ex- ‘ends 9s" beyond the “body. ‘the gauge against the face frame while hold To position the drawer, hold the foot of ‘When the drawers have been Sted in Fay the pedestals, the Fey pedestals can be P24 hoinee This is done M by a pair of arched Stipports hat bre the opening be tweenthe pedestals. ete: I you make the optional vanity panel youl only need to male one suppor. CUTTING THE ACH. Begin making the arched supports (QQ) by first cutting two pieces of 34" stock to finished width and length, see Fig. 16. Then comes the tricky part — laying out the curve of the arch. To do this, firstmark the high point ofthe curve (@" up from the botiom eeige) centered acrossthe backofthe workpiece. Then drive ‘finishing nail into each of the bottom ‘corners, about V+" above the bottom edge. Next, spring a flexible wood strip (ike 2 yard stick) between the two nails until it reaches the high point of the curve. Now, ‘raw this curve on the workpiece. ‘SUPPORT BLOCKS. To attach the supports tothepedestals, added blocks (RR) to the back face, see Fig. 16. After cutting these, bore a Yis'-diameter hole through each block to accept a carriage bolt, see Fig. 16a. ‘Then glue the blocks to the supports. 12 Woodsnich No.79JOINING THE PEDESTALS © | xe isting the aed suport {weenie ple ya al. Sorat td nd en cave tots se fig 17, To cae thew holes they align with the holes in the support blocks, I temporarily clamped the pedestals Spee ecuereeece es Toe hep age teers chal belo epalthepedels Bate Sports soul eset fm the ot ‘Cat ele ees ee Pit Wt bilan tbestc plug he iol irda et gee Whee holes are drilled, bolt the pedestals together. ' ‘A vanity panel between the thekickboards,see Fig.2,___see Fig. 2. To make the kick: sertstoinstallthepanel between pedestals encloses the knee NOTCHES. The second difier- boards (HH), first cut a pair of the pedestals, see Fig. 3a To do holeatttebackofthedesk, || enceisacouplcotnoicies Once blanks sheen incor two this fist dilutes dough tbe “To build the vanily panel, theparelisbult,notches onthe longerthan thewidth ofthe van- pedestal sides for the screws. used frame and panel joinery bottom corners reduce the itypanel @5%4"), see Fiz. 1. ‘Next, temporarily clamp the ‘with stub tenons and grooves. panel's width so it ts between ‘Then cope the ends fo panel in place between the Is made the same way a8 the thepedestal bases, see Fig. 18. the shape of the pedestal kick- pedestals. Thea, using the holes pedestal sides, pees. ue Siege Soca eit epewganng ta Se ie peas eee aes ey Cee ee ‘LOWER RAIL, First, the lower 2"wideand 3" high. ‘Finally, glue the kickboardsto threaded insertson the« sof rail (EE)iswiderthanthelower KICKROARDS. A pair of kick- the vanity panel. the vanity panel. Finally, rails in the pedestals. This boards hide the notches on the INSTALLATION. | used ma the threaded inserts and screw 0 | eS eeTHE TOP With the pedestals finished, the final to build is the top. Itsalarge frame and panel assembiy ~ only in this case, thepanelsand frame are 1" thick. (built the panels by nating i plywood to 34 particleboard) FRAME. Start by cuiting the frame pieces (1, , Ki) to size, see Fi. 18. Next, cut a Wowide by W'dcep offset _groave oa the inside edge af the front and back pieces (ID andthe ends (J), see Detail Fig. 18. Then cut grooves on both edges of the dividers (KK. To finish the frames, cut tenons oft the grooves on both ends ofthe «nd pieces (J) and dividers (KR), BASE PANELS. Though the top panels are made ftwo layers, [found teases to bulld the frame sround the 34"thick particle board, and then add the 44-thick plywood (and inlay strips) after the frame was a3 sembled.refertoFig.21.Atthistime,cutthe {4 paticleboar base panels (LL, MM) 0 sae, see Fig. 18 OFFSETTONGIES. Nex! cut onguesonall fourerigesot the panels ofthe grooves in the frame, see Detail in Fig, 18, Note: The tongues aren't centered onthe thickness of the particleboard, but offset so the top panel are uch with the tp ofthe frame. Atter the frame plecesand panels are cut, youtcan assemble the tp, see Fig. 19. ROUT OGEE. Once the giue has dried, the next step is to rout a Roman ogee om the outsideeigesotthe ton, see Fig. 20.Irouted this freehand, using the same bit as didfor the base and drawer fronts see Fig 20a INLAY STRIPS AND PANELS. Now the recess on top afthe base panels can be filled with 4" oak plywood surrounded by thin inlay stipe (used walnut), seo Fig. 21 Start by cuttingtheinlay strips (PP) ¥4" thick and 14" wie. Then miter them to it smugly around the edges ofthe recesses. ‘Aer gluing the inlay strips in pace, the {inlay panels (NN, 00) can be cut to Mt inside the strips. (Note the grain direction) Fitting these is tricky. Start by cutting the panes slightly oversize. Then sneak up on theexactit. Finaly giuethepanelsin pace [NTIACHING THE TOP. Once the top is finished, Uatached itt the pedestals using “figure 8 desk top fasteners, see Fig. 22 ‘To mount the fasteners, Girt drill shallow mortiseson op ofthe pedestals and support blocks (FR) wath a Forster bit, se Fig-22. ‘Then screw nthefasteners, Now.centerhe top on the pedestals, and screw through the fasteners nto the top, see Fig. 223 FINISHING. To finish the dese, [used Min wax Fritwood stain, and two top coats of General Finishes’ Royal Faish (Satin) 14 No.79MATERIALS CUTTING DIAGRAMS | A Kick fee) 13-17% B Keio. Sides (a) 34x3-27/4 SIDES © Silee(@) Max2-276 D Upperrais(a) 94x2!2-23% E LoworRals 4) Yax3¥e-23%2 F Munins(®) | $4x232-21%8 @ Panelsi2) apy -6vex21%% BACKS Ho Stes) 3612-270 1 UpperRais (2) Sax2¥e- 128 1 LowarRals 2) Yax319-12¥6 K Muniins(2)——Sax2ia-2 18 L_ Panels) Vaply 53 21% FRONTS/DRAWER GUIDES M Front Stios(@) Sax TM: 26% IN Runners18) Sax 118-2658 © Ralsuppors() Sax Ila. 1358 P FontRals@) — Yaxve-1dle @ Gudes(t) ——-exde-26%e R Stops 6) Manwe-2 WRITING SUDES Panels) Bex 14-26% T Handles) © Max? 14 DRAWERS. U Fens Vania a V Sees (12) Vax54-23% Ww Bocis@) VaxSla-l4 X Bottors(6) ply 1314x2314 YY Fle Drw: F/B Yox 4-18 Fle Dew Seios (2) Ve 34-2550 ‘AA Fle Dw: Space: ex 7-14 BE Fie Drar Botiom Vaply-12/0x25i2 VANITY PANEL (OPTIONAL) CC Sitios Max 2i2-2910 DD Upper! Su 23-2114 EE Lowerfit Sax5i2-214 FE Muntns@) vax 202-2199 GG Pons (3) Yapiy 594x299 HH Wickboards@) — lax3-2610% Top MW Fromersex@ 1121-01 Wi Frome Eck @) 1421-25 KK Divien@) 1212-2 LL Sco Bose) Yapibd- 26» 1484 MM Centersose Sepia 26244 NN Sie inlay Ply) 00 Centerinicy®y vapiy-24¥4x23)2) PP hoy tips (12) Tex l4-cuttoft GQ Arch Supports 2) sax4- 75% RR Suppor Blocks (8) 1Yax2-3 Vaply-24¥4x 138] SUPPLIES > @Dower Pale = Nyon Drawer Sige stips ‘+ Fle Drawer Sica Harctware (Optional) "= (1463 1 Fn Woodscrews + @Yexs¥¢ Comogetots Nua wens (4) Vase Vé Machine Screws 8 Witrs = @ Wa Treadedinsers © @)Desk Top Fasteners ‘27-967 (fWO BOARDS 0-47 8a Foon) i ea cc x = Tr Wy x7 96" (WO BOMEDS 0 4.734 tock) « at © z # I 3 i a 6-96" FOUR BOAROS 84. toch) € E ¢ ze ™ = 7 ee] eusl # ites 2 1 7"- 96" TWO SOAKDS @-47 Be. och} tn Postar ‘nso nat V4" x 4°32’ conmmastive WOOD FoR ‘Rio reaver 113 SHOCK TOR SUPPORT BOERS RE) ror naar sms or) ‘ae 248" x 96° OAK PETWOOD (9000 TW 3085) o aa i wy. 60 e 6 © e @ @ t ea E S t fs $s v Z an a0" 4 40" PARTEBOAND ‘at 548" 9 72" BRE PLYWOOD x x x x x x uw a No.79 WoodsmithSOME TIPS FROM OUR SHOP Shop Notes CUTTING A COPED JOINT mWhen Iwas installing the van- ity panel on the Pedestal Desi fon page 6, | ran into a sitiaton often faced by house trim car- penters — joining two pieces of ‘ioldingat aniaside commer. The trickis geting a good, tight ft. ‘MATERS. Cant youjustjoin the two pieces with amiter joint? On the Desk Icouldn'tdo this, since the kickboard on the pedestal rruns through and beyond the vanity panel. But even on atypi- cal inside comer there are a couple of problems with using a ‘miter joint. ‘Onaninsidecorerit’s almost {impossible to nal or clamp the two mitered pieces together tightly. And, even ifyou could t them together fairly tight, there's a good chance a gap ‘would develop in the comer 2 ‘the wood shrinks and swell. Since you'll be looking down into the comer, any gap will be noticeable. And if the corner isn't perfectly square (and often itsno0 it's dificult to geta tight- ‘Sting miter joint ‘COPED JOINT. On acopedjcint ‘one of the maiing pieces is cut (Coped) to match the shape of ‘the other. The other piece hasa ‘square end tha’s hidden behind the copedpiece. Yetiromabove, TOP VIEW FRONT VIEW Bast: _ “om Smerece = (| [pct ares ‘The first step in making a ofthis miter isto show were to coped corner is to attach the cutaround themolded edge, see squareendpiece. (Onthe Desk, middle drawing above. thisis the pedestal base.) ‘CUT MITER. Now the mating First mark across the end to Indicatgthe inside limit of the placed the two pedestals on my bench overhanging the bench top. andthe pedestals separated bythe arched support piece ‘Next, cut a 43" miter ouside the pencil markacrosseachend ofthekickboard. [BEGIN COPING. Now the 2c tual coping can begin. For this | use a coping saw with a aew bade, Woucoulduseabandssw ‘with a narrow blade, or ascrol saw) The fist section o cope the straight section see Sep? Shop Note: If scasiest to see the cutting ine ifthe workpiece ispestionedsothere’sashadow ‘easton the mitered end ‘Whea you reach the molded ‘edge, stop. Then make asecond ‘ut this time cuting in from the nd ofthe pice to remove the waste block, see Sep? ‘COME MOLDED EDGE. Here's where the tricky part comes — ‘coping the molded edge. The secret isto take your time and ut with smooth strokes, sce Step3. Butdon'texpectapertect fit with the mating piece when youre done coping SAND 10 mtr. fier both ends of the kickboard have been coped, test the coped piece with the mating piece. To get & perfect ft — a tight joint ine — it still appears that both are piece (the vanity panel kick- miter,sM@eStep Ibelow.Tomake carefully sand across the coped mitered, see photo above. board) is mitered. The purpose this mark on the kickboard, 1 ends.see Step 4, eas cur ora euramores Ss onoee| First mark the distance between the pedestal ‘rises on the ends ofthe molding piece. Nowniter the ends. 2 Mate straighteucatong themiterlineand stp at the molied edge, Remave waste ieee before coping the tip, 3 Sut around the molded tege, supporting the tip with your finger to keep asharp point on the tip of the melding By Novtesttnepto tomate ing piece. Use a sanding atic to smooth the end so it fits tightly along the entire joint. 16 Woodsmith No. 79SHOP-MADE DRAWER PULLS mye tot sn eee rea one ee Oe a pulls | made for the Deskstarted ‘oul as pieces of drawer stock ‘that are cut tolength and width, then routed toshape. DOUBLE-ENDED 1G. To make goeeea See pa eee blank forrouting acoveforafin- _ MAKING THE 16. The jig is ‘ger slot. Then the workpiece is simply a pair of "thick picces Screwed to other end of the jig ofscrap cut tothe desired length for trimming the comers fush of the pulls (614° in my case), and rounding overtheedges. The pieces are then glued to- sether with an equal amount of ‘overhang at each end, see draw ingacleft The width o the over hhang matches the desired width cof your pls Gn my ease, 134°) “Two screw holes through the overhang hol he wortiece ‘while routing the edge. These Teave mouningholes nthe pal. ‘curs, In order io keep the blank in place while routing the cove forthe Ginger sit, screw a pair of Mi thick cleats to the Sides ofthejig seeSteo i below. ‘RADIUS. Ici radius on the front corners of the ig to serve ‘asa pattem for the plot bearing fon 2 flush trim reer Bit, see Step. Thea, ater rimming the blank io match the jg, switch a¥#'roundover bicandrout the Outside edges, see Sep 6 | Fi Gt he blah length a awidth. Then, toronta cove forthe fin- ger slot, alide owe blank into the jig. Te thould ft snugly between the wide cleats, (Clamp « pair of stops to the router tableanequal distance from thecen- ter of the bit. This distance determines the travel of the workpiece, andtheslot length. ‘Now audjust the bit to cut full-dept, ‘and slide the fence up to the outside ‘edge of the bearing. Make several Light ‘passes from right to left to roxt the stot. Use the other end the front of the pull. Fire, serew the law to the jig. Then cut off the “ears,” leaving Ys" that’s fluah trimmed next. the jig to shape Now, with a flush trim bitin the router, tim the corners and front eclge flush weith the ja, Do this on ail the drawer pulle before going to Step 6. With a 4° round-over bit in the router table, reine the bit to full eut- ting depih. Make several light passes to round over the front and ends ofthe pull. No. 79 ‘Woodsmith 7WEEKEND PROJECT In/Out Box Round comers aren't the only unique thing about this project. The sides of the box are the same thickness as the comers. And the fingers of the box joints seem to bend around the comers. Wreermesecpetyonin: Se orne ens tee ee re pepe peep laele ele een sare ed ecumer si ee aay hander eevee eae Se ee Sorter eae Seen eetiatd wee Senet s seamarastopeve sp accom tpt Momeaetme tere fre eee scrrerar ee ee eae ran ee eet aeons ier ee ena “plunge and nibble” routing technique. MAKING THE BOX ‘The in/out box starts out as a rectangular ‘box joined with standard V4"wide box joints Gemetimes called finger joinis). Begin by cculting the front (A), back (B), and sides (© tofinishedlength and rough width from Se'sthick stock, see Fig. 1. (Lused red oak.) cUTROXIOINIS. Nowtheboxjointscanbe ‘cut, seeFig. la Todo this Tsetupa 4" dado blade onthe table sawand tthe slots using box joint ig. (There's an article on making “| ajigand cutting boxjoinisin Woodemith No. 78. For information on ordering this issue and hardware to make the fig, ee page31.) TRIM TO WIDTH. After cutting all the box joint, trim the pieces to final width on the table saw. Setthe fence toleaveafullpin (for the front and back) orsiot (forthe sides). ‘CUT HAND OPENING. Is easiest to cut a hand opening in the front piece (A) before assembling the box. Todo this, firstcentera line on the length of the piece, see Fig.2. Thenmeasure1V\"fromthetopedge, and ‘make a mark on the centerline. Now scribe ‘an are with a" radiue that intersects this point. Next, cut along this are with a band ‘sw or sabre saw to form the hand opening. ASSEMBLE BOX. Finally, glue and clamp the box together and check for square. 18 a tae Wood:mithROUNDING THE CORNERS Alter the box is assembled, the corners can berounded. Thisisatwo-step process, First, there's a hele érilled on the inside of eac ‘comer. Then aradius is sanded on the out- side ofeach comer. INSIDE CORNER | érilled the inside corner holes witha Forstner! ‘The key is to position the box under the bit 0 eacit comer has sides of identical thick: nose, refer to Fig. 63. To do this, Imade a positioning “corner” on the drill press table witha fence and a stop block, refer to Fig. 6. “To postion the comer, use a spacer the ‘same thickness as the desired thickness of the box sides. (used 44" Masonite.) Place the spacer against the back edge ofthe bit, ‘see Fig. 4. Then position the fence against the spacer, and clamp the fence down. Next, place the 44" spacer against the right side of the bit, and set a stop block ‘against the spacer.see Fig. 9, Nowclampthe stop biock tothe fence. GUIDE BLOCK. To keep the bit from veer- ing offinto the box, I clamped a guide block tothe inside ofthe box, see Fig. 6. DRILLINSIDE HOLES, Now youcan drill the holes. Drill halvay theatgh from one side, ‘thenflipthe bor overand completetthe holes from the otherside. ‘ROUNDOUTSIDE CORNERS. Thelaststepis ‘to round the outside corners, see Fig. 7-To dothis, Imade a template and marked and sanded cach corner on a disk stader. ROUTING PLATFORM Now that the comers are rouneled, the next stepis to thin the sides ofthe box to match the thickness ofthe corners. To thin the sides, [used a router and 94 straight bit, Woueouldalsousea "straight Dit) But the problem was supporting the router base and keeping it from tipping daring the cut To get around this, Imadea routing platform that clamps to the work ‘bench. The platform consists ofa top, abase (Gee Fig. 8), and afence (see Fig. 9). ‘ToP. To make the plaiform, lfirstcutatop onthe drillpress. of 19 sceFig. 8. This should belongenovgh {to support the router at either comer of the ‘box, and wide enough tosllow the platform tobe clamped tothe bench, see Fig 9. 1ASE. The base provides a clamping sur faceforihein/out box. relertoFig.100n the next page. To make the base, rip 2x4 to a width of", and then glue and screw itto the front bottom edge ofthe top, see Fig. 8 FENCE. The lat sep isto makeafence to ‘guide the base of the router. First I cut a ‘Straight piece of wood to the same length 28 deill 4" shank holes at each end for No, 8 rroundhead woodscrews, see Fig. 9. LOCATE FENCE. To locate the fence, used ‘the same 44° spacer as 1 used om the drill ‘press setup, First, hold the spacer against the base ofthelaiform, see Fig. a. ‘Then, set your router om the platform so the edge ofa 12" or 4 straight bitis against the spacer, and position the fence against the base of herouter, Clamp this end of the fence in place, and locate the other end the sameway. Now, screw the fenceto the top of from’ plywood wawidihiof 11" andlenth the top. Then, to make the fence adjustable, the platform and remove the clamps. 3) wae SECOND: casa ce wesosceew: rounonnaamst geen iy (Cl Ol sito FIRST: a Wouo Ur seacen Ans keen SP ato race oor wo Srutaoanorsoacee No.79 ‘Woodsmith, 19THINNING THE SIDES After finishing the roating platform, the sides ofthe box canbe thinned to match the thickness ofthe comers ‘CLAMP BO To do this first clamp the box to the routing platform, se Fig. 10. The top ‘edge ofthe bor shouldbe fu with the op ‘Site ofthe rouingpatform. ADJUST FENCE. You've already set the fence oa the routing platform to leave ¥¢ thick sides Butiobe onthe saleside,audge the fence enword the box aha (which wll make the sides sightly thicker). Then you «aa readjust the fence later to sneak up on ‘the ira thickness. SET DEPTH OF CUT. Ise the router bit to make 2 114t-deep cat Gust over hall the witthofthe bon) That way, each sidecan be thinned by routing the tp frst snd then the bottom without having to reedust the bit. (Note: i'yourrouter bitwoat cut 114" deep, youTThave w make the cusin two passes) PLUNGE AND NIBBLE. But making that éeepacut presents problem. Routing with the rotation ofthe bit Qe torigh), you sk tearing out a long splinter. So instead, 1 seitled on a “plunge and bbl” technique. ‘ThismethodinvoWesmraking aseriesofsde plunge cuts, see Fig 0a. Each plunge cutis followed by 3 shor nibble or clean aut cut To thin the sideusing aplunge and nibble technique setthe router onthe platform top so the bits 2" 1054" tothe left ofthe right corner ofthe box. Then plunge the router toward the fence unil the feace stops the ADDING THE BOTTOM Now that allthe cides and corners are a uni form thickness, the last stepis to rout a ¥#"= ‘wide rabbet inthe bottom inside edge ofthe box fora ¥4" plywood bottom. Tut this rabbet on the router table using 244" straight itand arub block, see Figs. 11 and 12. The end of the rub block acts like a fence, keeping the rabbetaconsistent with ‘Tomake the nub block, glue apiece of A" plywood to a spacer made of Vi" Masonite and cut as shown ia Fig. 11. Then line the spacer with double-sided carpet tape to at- router base. Now nibble away any wood that’ left between the plunge cut and the fight corer by routing from eto ght. For the cond plunge cut, just move the routeranotherl4"to34" tothe eftofthe frst aut Note: The router bit sat cuting as the routeris advanced. Then plunge and sible again. Now re peat this sequence unt the top half ofthe Side is thinned. After the last plunge cut, rake a final pas to clean upany ridges, see Fig. 102. Shop Tip: To ensure consistent thickness always orient the rater the same rection wile outing. see box right. ‘Ate the top haifsrouted, flip the in/out baxover nd rot the bottom halt. Then thin the remaining three sides. ee | nex noen erances way ae ssc rneoioagl ‘SIDE TOWARD FENCE ‘On some routers the bit may not be ex actly centered on the base, So, tokeepthe ‘cut 0 uniform thickness shen using a ‘fence, keep ome point on the router Base | tach the rub block to the router table. POSITION KUBBLOCK. To position the rub ‘locke on the router table, First adjust the router bit to a height of 44", see Fig. 123. ‘Thencenterthe endofthe rub blockoverthe bit, eaving 40" (yg desired width ofthe rab- bef) exposed anMftess the blockinto place. ROUTRARRET. Withthe rub blockin place, you.can routthe rabbet. To reduce chipout, made several light passes. This works well forthe sides, butthecomnersareabittouchy. ‘To prevent chipping out one ofthe fnger nibble method again, But this time, T only ribbled away about Ve" ata time. ‘BOTTOM. After the rabbet is cut, use tas template to draw the bottom of the box ona piece of oak plywood. (rsactually alte Tess than 44" thick.) Then cut the bottom, and giue and clamp ttothebox. see Fig. 133. isi. Finally, I sanded the box and finished it with General Finishes’ Royal Fin- ish (satin). Once it was dry, Tadded a selt adhesive felt dot to each corner, see Fig. 13. 12)STACKED BOXES ‘The finished In/Out Box can stand by itself ‘on any desk, Butafter making all the stups {for the first box, it only takes a litle more time and material to build a second box. ‘Then, by making four support arms, you can stack the two boxesiin «typical in/out tray arrangement, see photo. SUPPORTARMS. The supportarmsare just pieces of 2" dowel rod (used rel ak) that ‘recut toalength of 14, see Fig. 1.Then, a barefaced or single-shouldered tenon is ‘cutoneachend. ‘The support arme work like this. The shoulder ofthe bottom tenon on each dowel rests onthe top edge ofthe lower box, refer to Fig. 17. And the shoulder of the upper tenoa holds the top boxin place. ‘But cutting these tenons on the ends ofa round dowel canbe a problem. For the faces ‘of both the top and bottom tenons to sit lat against the box, the tenons must be directly inline with each other, refer to Fig. 17 How do youcut two identical tenons on round dowel that has a tendency to rol? To do this, madea ig thathokds each dowel place while the face and-shoulder cuts are ‘made Since the dowel won't move in the ig, ‘the tro tenonshave to beiidentical JG. To make the ji, frstcuta V-notch in the end ofa scrap piece of plywood, see Fig. 14. (tilted the table saw blade to 45° and cut the notch in two passes) Thea, to held the dowel in place, line the V-noteh with double-sided carpet tape, and press one of the dowels into place, see Fig. 14a. FACE CUTS, After ‘making the jig, you ‘canuise the band saw tocutthefaces ofthe tenons, see Fig, 15 First clamp a fence ‘Ut from the blade, see Fig. 153, ‘Then, tomakethe faces of the tenons identical length (@¥4¢—just ess than the width of the box), clamp 2 ‘top block behind the front of the saw blade. Now lay the jig flat on the tableand make the face cuts on both ends of the dowel. Note: Don't remove the dowel from the jgyet To complete the two tenons, I cut the ‘shoulders using the miter gaugeon the table ‘saw, see Fig. 16, Firs, raise the blade just ‘below theface of the tenon, see Fig. 163. Next,usetheripfenceasastoptocutboth shoulders the same distance from the ends of the dowel, see Fig. 16a. To dothis. clamp stop block to the fence. Position the Blecic 240" fromthe outside of the blade. Nowlock ‘the rip fence and cat both shoulders. ‘After the shoulders at both ends of the dowel are cut, you can remove the dowel from the jig. Then follow the same proce- duretocuttenonsou the other threedowels, Finally, safien the ends slightly by sanding, and glue the completed support amis to the two boxes, seeFig. No.79 Woodsmith aTOOLS AND TECHNIQUES Shoulder Planes ecently Iwas fiting a panel into a sabbet onthe back of a cabinet. But thepanel wouldn't set in lush, Obviously, needed to do litle trimming, but how? There was nogoing back tothe table saw beeause the cabinet was already assembled. And setting up a router to.do the trimming would be tricky and time-consuming. ‘What | needed waso'ta power tool, ut hand tool—ashoulderplane, seephoto. Since its cutter is as wide as its body, a shoulder planeisthe perfect tool fortrim- ming rabbets as wells tenon shoulders, dadoes, and grooves. ‘Why not use a rabbet plane to Ox a rab> bet? You'l see shoulder planes listed as rabbetplanes (and the other way around) in catalogs. While their names are often interchangeable their primary uses are different. Rabbet planes are designed to text fabbets while shoulder planes are ‘meantto clean them up. ‘SHOULDERPLANE. So shoulder plane mainly a trimming tool — ideal for shaving end grain, ch as the shoulders ‘ofa tenon. But is also good for smoot ingthe bottom orsidesofarabbet, oreven ‘aizening the bottom ofa dado or groove. HOW THEY WORK. A shoulder plane is r- ally just a tool that holds a cutter square to the sides, and at alow angle to the surface being planed. To do this, the sides of the ‘shoulder planeare machined flatand square to the bottom. And the cutter “seat” is ma- chined to 12" see Fig. 1 CUTTING ANGLE. But the cutting angle ie actually 37° (most planes are 45°). That's figured byadding theangle ofthe cutterseat 12>) tothe angle of the bevel onthe cutter 5}. Thecatierisused bevel up, see Fig. 1 PARTS. Shoulder planes have very few parts, In the case of the Stanley No, 99 Shoulder plane shown in Fig. 1, there are ‘nly nine. The body of the plane isin two parts. The top has a long nose and is Shaped like ahandle atthe back. The bot tom is attached tothe top with a locking screw, and contains the cutter seat and the edjusting slide for raising and lower {ng the cuter. ‘CUTTERADIUSTMENT. The cuter sits on the seat and the adjusting sie, see Fig. ‘The slide itself sits on a short ramp. By slide (and the cutter) moves up or down the ramp, see Cross Section. Moving the ccutterdown the ramp exposesmore ofthe crtting edge below the plane bottom. ‘The cutter is held against the seat by the lever cap. Tightening the lever cap screw forces the cutter against the seat, see Cross Section. A tightly held cutter produces smooth cut. MOUTHADIUSTMENT. There's oaly one ‘more part, and this one is hard find unless you know it’s there —a set screw that controls the size of the mouth, see Cross Section. Tightesing the serew al lows a very narrow opening which is = sential for fine crosegrain trimming. Can't you avoid using a shoulder plane by justbeing more careful whencutting erab- betin the first place? Well, maybe. But even the most careful machine setup can give some unexpected results. And thats when these planes do their best work. Woodsmith No. 79PLANE SE -UP Anew shoulder plane will probably come in ‘cardboard box, wrapped in rust prevent paper. Curiously, one of the things it prob- ably woa't come with is instructions for use and care. And P'é be surprised fit came out ‘ofthe box ready to use. Fortunately, setting itupisnt that difficult. \WHAT'TO DO FIRST. One of the frst things Ido with a ew shoulder plane is check that the botiom and sides are flat and square ‘Also, on planes with two-piece bodies, check thatthe bottom surfaces of both pieces aren the same piae, see Fig. 2. Punintended.) Minor deviations can be corrected by ‘gently “grinding” the sole of the assembled ‘plane on fine grit silicon carbide sandpaper inst: ADJUSTING THE CUTTER mounted on a flat surface. But ifthe prob- Joms aren't miner, return the plane. ‘curren. Next, compare the width of the ‘cutter to the width of the plane body. The ‘cutter should be slightly wider — about Vio! to Ye" wider. Fits widerthaa tha, you can grind abitoff the sidesof the cutter’ But ifit's too narrow, the plane will never cut properly. So, again, return thecatter orthe Blane) for atew one. ‘The next stepis to rémove the cutter and hhone the cutting edge. The cutter looks more lke a fattened spoon than a typical plane iron. ‘The nearly square end has not ‘one, but three bevels. With luck, the cutting ‘edge bevel is ground to 25". If not, rerind and then hone itto thisangle. SETTING CUTTER DEPTH. Now, set the depthofihecuiter, seeFig.2.Formost work, youll want to sof the cutter to take 2 fine Shaving. To do this, set the cutting edge lightly below the bottom of the plane (the MOUTH OPENING, The size of the mouth opening is one of the Keys to accurate trim. A COLLECTION OF SHOULDER PLANES Here's a family photo of most of the metal shoulder planes being manufactured today These planes represeat the three major shoulder phne makers — Record, Staley, ‘and Cliton. The planes are madeofcastiron (he Stanleysarealso nickel plated) in Eng land, No ope needs all of these planes, but the rangeindicates there's shoulder plane | forevery ob, and (maybe) every budget. | the Grandad ofthe group is the Re cord No. 73. Its 8" long, 1" wide, and ‘weighs four pounds. The smallest isthe Clit ton 400. Is 4" long, 34" wide, and the only fone to use a wedge to hold the cutter in place. The rest vary in size and weight. For catalog information on purchasiag these and other shoulder planes, see Mail Order Sources. page 31 ming. For precise, delicate workit should be ‘open enough to let only paper thin shaving through, se Fig. 3a. Todo this adjusttheset screw located in the body top, See Fig. 3. For less precise work, the mouth can be ‘opened wider (and the cutter set deeper). ‘This lets in alarger shavingand you can re- move wood faster, To do this, loosen the locking screw. Then adjust the mouth open- ing and tighten the locking screw. There's ‘nonneed to readjust the set screw. Note: Some shoulder planes, such as those made by Clifton (except the 3110), ‘don't have adjustable mouth openings. No. 79 Woodsmith B