NO.

60

NOTES FROM THE SHOP

$3.50

w,x

III

.t

Sawdust

ABoU"r'I1DSISS1l& Hls(J>ry repeats itself,

So fro', we'.e added the supplies fOI'
01' so they say. 1 hadn't really thought
three of these "ast projects. First is the
much about that in terms of WOOI/8lnitlt clock movement !either brass keywind or
EditOf Donald B. Peschke
quart1Jb"I(~Ij'), dial, door glass (which is
until we started work 011 this issue.
Des1gn Oiroct'" Ted Kralicek
IVoodsmith actually got started in July stenciled as Shown in the iSsue) .00 the
ManagingEdllO(OOuglas L HickS
1978 when I began wOlokon the first issue, hardware for the Regulalol' Clock shown
in Wood.mill. No. 36.
As it tarns-out, ninety-nine years earlier,
AsSiS1an1
EdIIOtSOOuglas M. Lidster
As 3 rel)ult of a number of .requests, we
in May 18'1ll, my gI'eat gomdfather, Emil
Kent A. Bucklon
are
of\.rillg more Choices for the Cradle
Peschke,
started
hL~0"'11company
-.
ProjectDesigner Ken Munkel
'Why am I 'mentioning this now? The shown in Wt)Qd8",ilit No. 48. The cradle
TecIJricaImUSltalorsDavid Kreyling
company Emil started was a "Manufac- was o!iginally shown in oak. We new ofi;er
Cary Christensen
the spindles (and the buttons) ill oak.
turer of aU kinds of Mouldings, Picture
RodStoakes
Frames and Curtain Poles." (I'm lucky cherry arid walnut,
Chris Glowacki
enougll to bave one of U,e business forms
If you wanted to build the Eu''Opean
Workbench
shown in Woodsmill, No. 50,
he used back then, We incorporated it into
Cu~omefService Sandy Baum, Mgr.
YOIl may have had trouble getting the
Jackie Stroud
the COVel' photo of this issue.)
Pat Koob
So, ills coming full cycle, and I'm tilWJ;y- vises. It was 1Iot the faul~ of \Voodcran.
Supply (the mail-Ol-der source we lisled).
Usa Thompson
getting' around to making the picture
They
did an admirable job of trying ro get
frames that seem to be part of my heii
Project Supplies leslie Ann Gearhart
lag e. or course, the moldings we're show- and keep the vises in stock. The problem
Terry J. Strohman
ing in this issue ate not nearly as ornate
was with Ole manufacturer.
Computer0_10""
Ken Mine,
We have talked directly with the manas t],ose Emil made 100 years ago. Bul
AdminiSlrallve
AssIS. Cheryl Scolt
ufac1;w'e"
and have received. shipment of
styles change.
Jean Carey
PICTUllE fRAMES. What was so much the vises for the workbench. You ClUIstill
order from Woodc,'lIft. SUpply, and we are
run},
tllOUgll, was ~nling up \vith a variety
EktlldlngMalnlonatlC8Archie Krause
of frames using a Hmited amount of also b"ing to Keep some on band.
lJlGO JT6M.S.One of U,e things I didn't
machinery. We decided to limit the work
The Woodsmith Store
to using a router table to form the profiles. mention was the .ddition of the "logo"
This
meant we had to make all the profiles. items, :l,Ve new have a l5hOI)apron, a coffee
Opet.lions Steve Krohmer
mug. and 8 corduroy cap - all \\ith the
with router bits. Is this too limiting?
Mrukeling Manager Steve Oozier
Woodsllwh logo On them.
At first, I thought i~ would be. But, then
To be honest about, all this, I resisted
Store Managers:
[ began looking at the dozens of router bit
Stlouis. MO Jon Behrle
profiles available. '1'here were actually too oO'eriug this tYlle of thing for many ye,,':!.
EkHI<eIey, CA Michael DeHaven
many choiees. So, we look anothel' ap- But what triggered it was a simple need.
DosM91nos,IA Kent Welsh
preach. All of the pl'Ofiles are made by I wanted a good shop M)I'On.
The typical blue denim ones I've seen in
using only three standard router bit 1'1'0some
catalogs and stores just weren't the
6Ies
(sn'aig'ht,
round-over,
ane!
cora
box).
WOODSMITH (ISSN 0164-4114) is pubquality
I wanted. And worse. the pockets
Using
<liffC\'ent
sizes
of
these
bits,
we
lished bimonlhly (February. April.June. Auwere
too
small and in the wrong places.
were able to come up with several dozen
gust. October, December) JelyWoodsmilh
profiles. 'Then it became a matter of ehoos- So, we- designed our own, Aetually, Terry
PUtilishlng Co., 2200 Grand Ave . Des
Strohmro, desi~l
it ....
ing which ones to show ill this issue.
Moilles. IA50312.
NEW
FACES.
'l'erry
joined OUI'PI'Oject
IVe
settled
on
10
pl'ofiles.
Some
are
very
Woodsmith is a registered trademark of
SUpply
team
this
post
fall. He worked in
simple, some are complex. The key to the
Woodsmilh PubUSIlingCo.
the IVoodlmtilh Stlll'C here in Des Molnos
~Copyright 1988 bY Woodsmlth Publis~ing complex ones is that t~y '8'" ,-eaUyjust
for about a year. Then we recruited him
combinations
of
the
simple
ones.
That
is,
Co. AllRigl\ts li1eservl9d.
to help \\ith the "front end' work for the
the
complex
mo!<lings
we're
showing
don't
Subscriptions: One year (6 issues) $12.95.
Two Years (12 issues) $22.95. Canada and have t.o be one strip of wood that's formed projecL supplies.
In ,ujdifion to desigJling the shop apron
Foreign: add $2 per year. U.s. fu~ onlY. by a very complex bit.
and
gettl"g the other Jogo items lilled up,
Instead,
make
several
strips
with
just
Single copy price, $3.50.
Terry
has been working on all the details
one
pl'Ofile
on
each
snip.
Then
join
(hem
Second Glass Postage Paid at ees
you
never
think about . . . INtting teletogether. Combinations like this are alMoines, Iowa
Postmaster: Send change 01 address to most endless. All that, has to be done is to phone ti~ in for lhe SOOnumber, design.
find new ways of arranging the strips to ing the forms needed to. take orders and
WOOdsmilh,BOx4~1, Mt.Morrls.IL 61054.
create
new profiles. It's just a matter of to ship them, and b:ying to think of wsys
SUBSCRIPTION QUESTIONS? Call toll
to make the entire process more efficienlc
free 800-435-0715 (IllinoisI'QSidentscall 800 using YOlU' imagination.
PROJECT SU'ppLJ.$. In the last issue, [ He has had several head,"'hes.
8920753). HGurs: 7;30 AM 10 8:30 PM,
But things are p,'Ogres.;ing. And with
talked
about ~he project supplies for the
Centra! Time. weekdays only.
Ten-y's
help, we hope to orre,' a "idel'
projects
sho\\tn
in
\Vood.smillt.
We
are
BACK ISSUES: Fora Iree booklet deseri"'range
of
se,'Vice for allll'ood~mit1t. project
ing allo[the baIlk]ssues. send 10Woodsmith, beginning to go back t.o p''Ojeets shown in
Pllst issues and b.'j?ng to find SOIlrolS for supplies.
2200 <>randAve., Des Mornes,lA 50312.
NEXTMAILING.The .ext issue of Wood
those supplies. (For some of these post
SAMPLE COPY: We willSend a free sampla
.mith
will be mail~ during \he week of
projects.
\Ve
sometimes
listed
a
source
oopy 01Woodsmith to anyone. Just send us
February
27, 1989.
that has since stopped carrying the items.)
his/her,name and address.
Numbet60

December, 1988

\VOOOSMITH

2
. c

I~

I~

T_i~s & Technigu_e_s__

__

FRAMING A 45' ANGLE

When I 8Ct up the table sa w ror cutting

miters, I use a tittle geometry to adjust
the mi~r gauge ror 15-,
To get. n 45 angle. I use a framing

square and (orm (U1 iso.lce/",' binngle. (All

isosceles triangle ha.. two equal sides, and
Iwo 45- Imgleg.)

flAMING

SOU~AI

...

steek b~ long. Now. to dctennine where to

drill hoies for the different I'ized dowels,
marl< a centerline :~ong the thiclmess of
the block.
Next mnke murk. on this centerline I"
and :>." (loom.",,11 end of the block. '",en
drill the four dowel holes (W', %" ~.
and 'Ke") compleLely t.h,oough the block.
(Drilling 111I'olll1hIhe block allows the
dowel to be pushe(1 th.oough 1'0 one end i.
.11.,1 the fen<'<lwhen culling.)
In addition to clltting different diameter
dowels, I ,,1..0 ,"unted Ihe jig to cut the
dowels to differcntlcngthll. To do this, lay
tOO block down on the balld saw (so tOO
hole. are horizontal) and cut 2'h"-long
saw kerf>! at
inter"nI.~ on both ends of
tOO block.

I,.

a coping saw or a back saw,

To pinth the blade tight in the kerf, I
use a y~"-dia. n\llC:hincscrew and nut, Drill
a y,,-<lia. hole, centered on the width af
the handle 1(," from the I."ding edge.
Now bevel the front eds:es of the handle

SOmore bll"le can be 1I~<1.

U$f 1,,- 'It I","

MACtilNE SGRtw
AND NUl

LAY our
COHTout
10m

llANO

WHIH lOtH

SI)6 Of
SOUM( AlE fOUAL AJ
~lUt G.t.UGf_SLOr.
THC c.wGt tS sa Al 45""

~ged
raton< have II .",.,I1 hole in
the center or the b~ule that needs to be
enlarged to aecel)t the machine strew.
Since the metal in the razor blade is very
brittle I ju.t u8<!<1" palr of needle-nose
pliers to SJ1i,) out a Inr~1' center hole.
Insert Ule 1';,17..ur into the 88\\' kerf from
the side so the back of the blade i~
flush
with the bottom of (he snw kerf. (Be
careful II(lt to push the .llIu,) edge or the
blad. ) Then tighten 11011'11
the blade ".th

To set the miter gnuge to a true 45

angle, set th. fnuning square on the top
or the tabte MIV. Now align lbe same
measurements on beth arms or the [nuning squ"''e riStht ngninst the edge of the
miter gnugc ~Iot.
Nex~ loosen the miter gauge locking
knob und gently Bnllg the 1,"Hugeup against
the fromillg square. "1w miter gauge is
1I0W set at exnctly 4r,. Then, tighten down
the locking knob nnd you're ready to cut"

To 11>10 the jig, align the tenee so the

blade fil.ll into the k.. 'f slot. Insert the
~. miter,
dowel stock into the correct diameter hole
until the end of the dowel is against the
8ric Schlleitimiller
Lompoc, Califon,ia renee. Now hokl the jig and dowel and cut
through the dowel. Slowly back the jig
out,
and p""h the tini~ dowel out the
edilor'. Note: Til;', lip
It'Otk rtly if
1M *,w blad. ;. pnroJle( .MIII fhe miter edge or the jig u.<ing the uncut dowel stock.
gouge 3(01. If tht blndt iii "", pnrolJel. Repeat the procedure to get the same
Ilre Il"gl'~ a re aIK...Y' !/Oi'lIJ 10 be off 110 length dewels,
metter /'0,(1 txclCI thl' miter gauge has
Harold Swldet'
beeP. sci. AI.", c/tk 10 mak, ...... lI.al
St"w College, P.nlt$ylt>tJ.>lia

the machine screw l).0<1nut,

\'/heJl us.ing the l'Wl":'pcr, ju.-rt push or
pull the scraper to serape the workpiece

Carl Faiz

ChtrrU ffill, New Jersey

",Il

!JOl(r [rtJ,nil'!J iSqlWrc ;8 Irllly sqrtTe.

CHEAP SCRAPER

RIGHT LENGTH ON SHORT DOWELS

SPOUT CAP

If yoe're alway. I"';ng the small spout.

caps from contail~rs or small cans, treL
help from clocUicial",.
I keep a varil'ly of the ",nail diameter
electrician's twist-on wire eonnecters
(sometimes called wire nUL,) in the shop.
When l lose a cap ~ooma can or glu. bettie,
SOIIl(!

Here's a technique that I've been using for

J just

I lise quito II few short dowels ror gluing

joints together. An<1J -ve had more Ulan

some linl! now with g1'eat success, It's

called doctor ~I"dinl( and I lise it for a

"tire connectors.

just a lew problems cutting V3J;OUS s110r1.

lengths fiOOIII raw dowel steek. The lengths

variety of pUIJlOI<CS. My main IJS(! though

is to remove ~Utyglue that. shows up while
staining, ""I",cinlly along the edge seams
on glued boards 0" in tight comers.
The doctor bL'lde L<!Isingle-edged razor
blade mounted in a h:uulle. The handle is

are uHually in<:on~~tent, and sometimes,

wnen cutting the dowels on the. band saw,

they would be caught between the blade
and the rip fence. Thl, not only ruined the
dowel but be<:lme a safety hazard as weU.
I ......
Ived the.<e problems by making a
very simple jig rrom 2 x 4 stocl< that can
cut four difTereJlt ~izcddo"'el dia:meters on
the band sa.... The jig (as shown in tOO
drawing in the middle column) will also cut
off dowels in ~. increments up to 2' long.
To milk. this jig. st.aJ1.by cutting the
WOODSMITH

made from n 1/,'"- thick piece of scrap

measuring 11'." wkle by 6" long.

To milk. the handle fit comfortably in

your hand. draw a h"ad contour on til<!
serap u.rxlcut. it out on the band S8.\V. Then
cut a o/lIo-d~Pband ~'\"' ktrf in one end
to hold t he blade. (Th. band saw cuts
about a V..'_"idc kerf.) You can also use

SCJ'C\V

on one of these n"ift)I",ri:itron

Freel Wm1zoll
Do "jen CO)ltlecticlti
I

1----------------1
SINO IN YOU. 10lAS

1----------------1
"you'd Ok. 10shate 8 _WOIlOng
1lp... 111
other
readers of WOOdsm,th, send your idea to:
Woot/5mith. Tops & Tecru,;ques. 2200 Grand
Av ... Des Moones. towa 50312
We pay 8 mnmum of $10 "" aps, and S15o.
""". for spedallochnlques (ilia. are accepted
to< pul)foea_). PI.... gIVe compIo.... ptana.
tlon 01your ode. 11 skolch " _.
send
along: .... 11draw 8 now OM.

____

S_t_e~Stool
A STEPIN THE RIGHT DIRECTION

Life is too short. For a four-year-old, tIl.t

means you .-J a stool because you're too
short to reach the sink to brush your teeth,
For an adult. it means you're still using
the same stool to reach all the way back
on the top shelf oC the kitcllen cabinets.
For thls project. we used basie approach. The step stool is made of <ommon
pine, which is another way of saying it has
a "<OIlntry look." The joinery is equally
basie-I<>ngue and groo\ejoinl.1!.
EDGE.oGlU( THE SIDES

I began by making the two side (leg)

pieees, The trick to making two mirrored
pieces is to start with o,,~blank, see ~'ig.
). Then aJkr all tile grooves ore routed,
i!.'s cut in half to create the two pieces.
GLUE-UP.To make the blank, t<lOrt by
edge-gtulng three pieces of IxG pine I<>
create a blank that's roughly 16~"\\;<1.
and 29' long.
CUTTO SJZ. AJlCJ' the glll~ dries, Illnno
or belt-sand the bllmk OaL 'I'hen cut iL to
a width of 14" and 28" long, see l'ig. 1.
LAY OUT LINES

A!tel' the blank is cut eo si,.0, two dadoea,

a groove, and a rabbet are rollted to join
the other pieces of the stool, sec I'ig. I.
DA.DOES. Start by laying out a V."-wlde
dado Cor the bottom step 6%" Crom .nch
end. This ls a sl<>pped dado, so nUlrk the
stop line 0/.0" from the front edge.
GROOVE. Next. lny out a \o~"-wide
groove to hold the riser. It's 10000ted&y."
[rom the front edge of the blank and
conneeI.1! the two dadoes.
BACK RABBET. Finally. layout.
rabbet.
along the back edge Cor the back p'meJ.
The width oC the rabbet should equal t.he
thickness oC your stock (0/.0,,).

MAnRIAl.S LIST
Owtoll Dimensions:: 19" w )( 14\'-" d x 14'" h
A SId.. 12)
8 RI_ (I)
C Slop (I)
o .... ",.,.1 (1)
E UcI (1)
...,.,..

0/.)( 14 -

13V.

0/. 6'/.. -

160/.
V. 12% - 1M'.
v... 7 - 160/.

Y.x91~-19

CunlNG DIAGRAM

/'.

s',,-

72"
A

v.'"

1t

5'1.- _
A

rr

v."

1(

1'1.-

72"

I. 'E=E
c

I?j

@
510 B!Am

ROUTlR GUIDE JIG

After the layout is done, you can begin

routing. To help align the cut.s on the lines,
I made a simple guide jig Cor the router.
BUIUlJ)C. The jig is jll1!l Cenee nailed
to an 8"-wide base oC 1'1' Masonite or
plywood, see Fig. 2. Rip a st.raillht Cenee
and nail it to the base 90 the back edJtC is
2" from one edge, see Fig. 2. (The 2" lip is
used to elamp the jig to tile werkpiece.)
cur OFF BDGE.The nice part. about tho
jig is tI1al you can use it to get perfect.
alignment with your layout tines. The koy
is that the bit cuts on t~e edge of the jig.
To accomplish this, mOUllt a 110" straight
bit in the router. Then damll the jig down
and run the router ntong Lhe fence SOthe
bit cuts tile waste otTthe front edge. Now

Non,
SOTH $IOES CUT
fROM ONE 8LAHK

ggoove DETAil

RABBET PETAIL

WOOOSM1TH

the

c:ut edge is exactly in line with the path

of the bit. see Fig. 2.

ROUTING

Alter the jig is complete, it can be used to

rout the two dadoes, the groove, and the
.-abbe~on the blank.
ROUT DADOJl.S. Before routing, I
clamped the side blank (A) on top of a
couple of sawhorses, see Fig. 8. 1lhen T
clamped the jig in place so its edge is
aligned with the left edge of the lett dado
line, see Soop 1, Fig. 4.
Set the depth of the router bit so it cuts
a Y,"-deepgroove in the blank- taking into
consideration the thickness of the jig's
base. (Sinee the base of my jig was v..thick, I set the del)th of cut at ~".)
Now set the router against the fence of
the jig and cut the groove, moving D'Om
the back edge of the blank toward the
front edge, see Soop J in Fig. 4.
ShOI)Note: Sint-ethe router bit is turning clockwise, routing this direction actually pushes the router base tight agains~
the fence,
STOP THE DADO. This dado is stopped
o/./' from the fr'Ontedge to keep it from
showing on the fr'Ontedge of the stool.
Waleh the layout lines and stop when the
bit touches the stop line.
seCOND DADO. Next, move the. jig
down to the dado 0.1 the other end and
followthe same procedure, see Step 2.
GROOVE. After these t\VO dadoes are
routed, turn the jig 90' and clampit sothe
edge aligns with the layout line fo.' the
groove for the riser, see Step 3. This
groove starts in the dado on the left and
stops in the dado on the right,
Shop Note: Instead of trying to plunge
the bit exactly in the left dado, I plunged
the router bit a little ahead (to the right)
of the dado. Theil I held the router firmly
and moved it backwards until it broke into
the dado.
BACK RABBET. The last thing is to rout
the rabbet for the back panel, Since this
rabbet. is ,.I wide, and the bit.is JhN wide,
it has to be routed in two steps.
First, align the edge of the jig with the
inside layout line and rout a ~N,\'ide
groove, see Step 4. Then move the jig
toward you about y,;" and make another
pass to clean out the remaining waste, see
Fig, 5,
CUT BLANK IN HALF

ClAMP JK;
TO WORKI'tECf

NOlE'~8AC~K~~~
ROUT IN
iDGE:
QllltfcnoN
OF ARROW
RGURf ..

GUIDI'
JIG

GU'DE

STEP 1

.JIG

$TEP 2

ROUT lff.T SIDE

BOTJOM DADO

ROUT RtGHT $101:

&OTTOM OAIIO

"-

$TEP 3

STep 4

ROUT GROOVE fOR RI~1t

ROUT RAB8fT fOR BACK P,o.NR

t:1

GUIDE JIG

OJ., .C)
u

t_j

GUlOE JtG

[ :>

1r
flGURE-$
1/..DADO

Alter the routing is complete, you call cut

the blank in half to create two mirrored
side pieces. 'I'D do this, start by rougl'
cutting the blank in half with ~he miw'
gauge on the table saw,
To get the two side pieces .to =tly the
same finished length, set the rip fence
1314' from the blade, see FJg. 6, Theil
cut each piece with the bouom. edge
against the rip fence.
WOODSMITH

FlGURI 7

..

,,

fIG. 11

-'

0'

sloe

y.

"

J_

.L.

"

1'."

.f_

....,_.
tonCIM
.,."

\!

INSID( )

CU1S1Dl

lOGlS 01 fin
AHD IftONT fOG(

-_

FIGURE
toUGH

"EASU~NJ-l'j

.
BACK PANel

\.

COMPLETE 'TIlE SIDES

IIULIHOS& OllIS""
IOG( 0Hi." SO

IWO) " ..

(i)

~_oot-

--------

RIGHT

RISER

Now that the two side pie<.'<!S

are to length,
the fiMl profiles can be cut. I bandsawed
the profile on one or the side p~
nnd
then used that piece to mark the other.
PROFILES. Begin by laying out the arc
00 the boLtom to ereate the legs, see ~'ig.
7. Then layout the two ,...1dii on the top
front edge (above the stAlp). see Fig. 7.
BULLNOSE PROFLI.. After both llide
pieces are cut to shape, rout 3 buIJnooc
profile on all of the edges exeept the top
edges 3nd the i...uk of the bad< edge (the
one with the back rabbet), see BuI"""'"
Detail in Fig. 7. (Shop NotA!:To keep the
bearing on the bit from going into the
rabbet on the bad< outSOO edge, use the
rouIa' table fence for this cu!.)
SCREW HOLES. The stool i8 held together with glue and counterbored "....
Even though it's assembled tater. it's C3&iest to driB the %' eeunterberes and the
'1",,' shank holes now for lhe serews in the
side pieces, see Cross SeeLion in Fig. 7.

",'3.

INSIDE PANELS

,,'
ClNf'alO
TONour ON

With the side pieces complete. work can

begin on the three inside pj_~:
the riser
(8). the step (C), and the back panel (D).

STEP. I started
by edge-gluing two
pieces of 'v." stock to fonn
fil'l!l step
(C). After ill. dry and planed or ."nded
flat, mit it to a final width of 12%'. see
Fig. 8. (Ills cut to final length Iater.)
RISER AND BACK PANEl. Next, cut lhe
front riser (B) to width tIC) it l11ateheJIthe
length of the vertical groove in the ~idc
piece (ln my case, 6Vi' wide). Then cut
the back panel (0) to rough width of
m'. (This will be cut to fini$hed width
later, rerer to Fig. II.)
Now cut all three panels (B. C, D) to a
uniform length of 16 :y.'.
TONGUES. The sIAlp (C) and front rU!c>r
(8) are joined to the sid"" by cutting
rabbets on the ends to form tongues that
lit the dadoes 3nd grooves in the side
pieces. (I used tongues here for. cleaner
appearance. Any variation.< in the tongue
tIUckoess are hidden inside the join!.)
To cut the rabbets. mount a 1'<' dado

U,.

STEP

lOrn (NOS

1
DETAIL

blade on the saw and raise iL ~. above

STEP 3

the table, 800 Fig. 9.

Before cutting the ~.
ched< the saw
set-up by cutting rabbets on the cnd of a
piece of scrap thats the same thicknc.;s.
After the tongue on the t.est board fiUlthe
~. groove, cut to~
on both ends of
the front riser (8) and step (C).
TRIM BACK TONGUK. The tongue on tho
front edge of lbe step (C) h.. to be
Irimmed back to fit the stopped dado.
I trimmed the tongue in two 8l.eps, see
Fig. 10. First. cut the tongue V'- from the
front edge stopping short of O'e .houlder.
see Step 1. Then chisel down 011 the front
edge to remove the waste, see Step 2.
WOODSMITH

The final operation on the step is to

bullnose the front edge (1;00 Step S) using
the same procedure as on the side panels.
aOT'rOM END OF RABBE'I'. There are
two more steps before assembly. The bottom end of the rabbet has to be chiseled
out so the back panel (0) will align with
the bottom of the step (C), see Fig. 12.
Alter the rabbet-is cleaned out, trim the
back panel so the top edge aligns with tbe
top of the sides, see Fig. 11.

flGUR 11

,,~

DOwa
J'tUG

BACK PANEL

@
sr'IE

ASSEMBLY

Once all of the pieces are cut to fit, assembly can begin.
DRILL PILOT HOLES.Start by clamping
W. pieces togethe" without glue. 1put a
pipe damp across the top and another
between the arc!l in the bottom. (Check
that the step 6ts tight against the back
panel.) Then drill pilo! holes through We
shank holes for No. 8 .x 1 V," woodscrews.
GLUE AND SCREW. Take the pieces
apart and put some glue in the dado,
groove, rabbet, and between the riser and
step. Then clamp it back together and
tighten down We screws. Alter the glue
dried, I plugged the screw boles with "'"
dowels and trinnned the dowels off -Ilush,

ROUtE 12

FIGURE 13

.A""

uo

.... 1

LID

The only thing left is to make the lid (E).

Start by edge-gluing two pieces of '1(."
pin_together. Then cut the lid 10/.0" wider
than the distance from the front edge of
the riser (8) to the back-edge of the back
panel (0), S\!(! Fig. 14. Finally, ell~it lV,'
longer than the width or the stool (19").
HINGE MORTISES. The lid is held to the
stool with butt hinges, see Fig. 13.
To mount the hinges, I outlined each
hinge in the top of the back panel. Then I
routed out the mlliolity .of the waste and
cleaned up to the line with a chisel.
Now sere",' the hinges into the mortises
so the front of the hinge aligns with, the
inside.edge of the back panel. Then center
the lid on the top of the stool and mark
the location of the hinges on the back edge
of the lid, see Overhang Detail in Fig. 14.
Outline this mortise with a chisel ao iti.
1%' from the bact. edge, see Fig. 13.
(This allows the lid to overhang '>fI" off the
back, see D.etail in Fig. 14.)
After the hinge mortises are cut, rout
the bullnose profile-on all four edges of the
lid. Then l;CI'CW the hinges in place.
CHAIN.To keep the lid from falling back
when it's open, r screwed anll'long brass
chain to the bettom of th.lid, see Fig. 14.
CATCH.J found that I always tilted the
stool on the edges of tho lid, put it swung
down because the f"ont edge wasn't air
tached. So I mounted an elbow catch on
the bottom of the lid and a strike plate on
the riser, see Catch Detail in Fig. 14.
FtNJSH. r finished the step stool with
two coats of satin polyuretli'ane varnish.
WOODSMITH

o
CHiSEl OUT

RABBET so SACK
PANt\.WJU. IE
WfJtI BOllO,",
OF STtP

FlUSH+'--+--

OVERHANG

DETAil

_-t''1
UD

CUT

LlO:::::::::::::::::::::::::~~:!

1 vI' WIDER THAN

u.

TOP OF STOOl

.,
,

1';'"1

CATCH
DETAil

UD

Yo" ~-

STlIln
PlATE

___

D_is~lay,_E_a_s_e_l

SHOW YOUR ART EASILY

Granted, this easel is very basic in
design. But it incorporates a variety of
different techniques that make it more
inteteSiing to build than tl!e finished
product might suggest.
The most unique and challenging
techniques wet" creating round tenons
on the ends of the dowels, and drilling
nniformlyspaeed holes to hold the gal.
lery Spilldles, reIer to Fig. 5. The fun
part. was making the jigs that made
both of these operations easy.

V!' hole. Once the jig is set, you can

011 the stretCher dowels,

TENNONING JIG

start. work

Befol'e I started to make the easel, I

made a small jig to cut round tenons on
the ends of the stretcher dowels. The
jig holds the dowel vertically SOa 'round

tenon can be cut on a Touter table.,

To make the jig, all you need is a
piece of 2.x4 scrap, some 'hI! ?tlasoJute
and a %' straight router bit. Start. by
ripping a bW.Jongpiece of 2x4 down to
2" wide and turn it on edge. Then drill
a hole the size of the stretcher dowel
(%.) toward one end of the block and
centered on its willlh, See Fig. 1.
AiWr the hole is drilled through, tack
a piece of v.' Masonite 011 ihe bottom
of the block. This serves as a base plate
for the jig. (Keep the tacks away from
the hole.)
S&'I.'I'ING
1lJ'. Now, to make a tenon.
mou.nt a %" stnUght bit in the l'OUter
table. P!:ice the block agaillS' tJ,~fence
of the router table and adjust the fence
so the bit is C6.1lettd on the end of the
block, refer to J"ig. I. Then rail;e the bit
until its heigbt above the table equals the
length of the tenon yOI1 want ("An, plus
the thickness of the \1<" Masonite.
After the router table i. se~ up, push
the jig along the fence moving from right
to lett until tbe bit cuts abou~halfw.y into
the :y,;' hole. Now it's just matter of
fine-tuning to get the OOI1'ectsi?.e tenon.
SUtrl by tunting off the !'outer and look
FlGURf 1

the end of the dowel stops aj,>ainstthe

Masonite base. Then oo1'if!<lly pull the
dowel out,
MAICE A GAUGE. To check the size of
the tenon, make a gauge by drilling a
!Ie" -dia. hole in a piece of 8C:l"'.:1p.Then
try to push the -tenon into the hole. (Ib
may be too hig to fit.)
If the tenon is too big, move the jig
slightly to the left, (so more of the bib
shows in the hole) then reclarnp it.
Repeat the procedure, until it fits the

Dltll1.

1 CIA.

STRETCHER DOWELS

To build the easel. 1 started by cutting

stretcher dowels from %' birch
dowel rods. The four dowels (A) for the
upright Ji'Qnt ti'ame are IT' long, and
the two dowels (B,) for the support
frame are J5-Y$"long, see Fig. 3.
CUTTNONS. Then I used the jig to
cut round tenons on both ends Of all six
dowels. '1'18 tenons should be a little
longer than the thickness of the frame
uprights. (This meant ~. long in my
case, see Detail in Fjg. 3.) I trimmed
the tenons flush with tne frame pieces
after assembly.
LOCKING PIN KEn.'. A1Wr the tenons
are cut on both ends of all the &t,,,tcl,el'
,",,~01dowels, 1 cut a shallow kerf around one
. ",,'.1 of the 17.long dowels. (The bottom
",
stretcher dowel that is attached to the
front uprights, l1lfer to Fig. 17.). This
;.....;... __
~ -_-'
kerf helps secure a lOCkingbar m place,
down into the hoIe, Adjust the jig until the
refer to Fig. 11 on page 10.
bit. is barely vi$ible on the left edge of the
'To make the kerf, 1 marked the center
hole. 1'hen clamp the jig to the (ence with of the length on the dowel, see Fig. 3.
a C-elamp, see Pig. 2.
Then, adjust the table saw rip fence so tbe
TST ClJ'I'.'1'0 teSt the set-up T used a
blade is centered on this mark, see Fig. 4.
scrap piotte of 0/," dowel. Turn on the
To qut the kerf, hold the dowel fumly
router mid Slowly push the dowel down against the miter gauge and push one end
into the hole rotating' it in counterclockagainst the renee. Then slowly roll the
wise direction, see J"ig. 2. Continue to dowel to cut a \4>'.doo kei f all the way
push and turn using even pressure until aJ'Ound the stretcher dowel,

S"'

V':

HOLE

Tlloo_

21'4 8lOCK

TWIST DOWEl.
COUNTERCLOCICWtSE
WHILE RfotNG
DOWNWAAO

STRAIGHT BIT

WOODSMITH

CENTER "' .. om ICtlf ON ONE

Uf'IllGtiT STREtCHEROQwa

RGUJlf 3

GALLERY RAIL

Two of the 17'long stretcher dowels are

used to make a decorative rail at the top
of the easel. These two dowels are held
LOgether with 12 decorative "gallery"
spindles (Cl. refer LOFig. 8. (See Sourees,
page 2,1.)
DRILL.INGJIG. Drilling the holc~ ror
these spindles wilS unother ehallengo. To
'hill these holes. r mode a simple <:entering
jig with a couple pieces of 'Y.' plywood,
see Pig 5.
First. eu~two V"'wide <b<Joe,; on the
inside feee of each plywood piece, see
Detail in Fig. 5. Then to hold the two
pieces of plywood tog\lther, drill a series
of holes fol' 2vJong screws, see Cro~
Section in Fig. 5.
Now insert the top two stretcher dowels
(Al into the jig. ('!'he end grain of the
dowels should be vertical. This ball to do
\lith the wedges that are added later to
the ends of the dowels, refer to Fig. 15.)
Stand the jig on end to make sure the
ends of both dowelil arc Ouh with the end
of the jig. Then gently tighten down all of
the screws to secure both dowels in the
dadoes between the two plywood pieces.
LAY 011l'BOLES.To make sure the hole..
are spaced evenly. I marked reference
lines Iv..' apart on the top of the jig, see
I~g.5. Use n square to continue these
referenee lines on the side and bottom of
the jig so the holes in the bottom dowel
are aligned the same _ Fig. 5.
RBP'ERENCEUNES. ADer 1Il3l'iting all of
the reference line-so draw a centerline
down the length of the dowel This can be
difficult,so I w;OO little centering trick.
Set the end of n combination square so
it', inlellUo>",lly just short of the middle
of the dowel and make a reference mark.
Then nip the combination square over
against the other .ide of the jig and make
second reference mlui<, see Fig. 6. Now
it's easy to spot the centerpoint halfv:ay
between these two reference marks.
OIUl.L ROLES. To dl,1I the hol03 into the
dowels, I used u o/...-dia, brad-point drill
bit. (The brad poil1t keeps the bit from
walking off the .ide of the dowe!.)
AOer mounting the bit in the drill press,
Ialso marked the centerpoint of the bit on
the fenee. Thi., mark is used as an hldex
line for the marks on the jig, see Pig. 7.
Shop Note: If you don't have II drill
press fence, clamp" Sb,ught piece of 2.4
on the drill pre.!S table, then mark an
ind...x line.
Now driII the holes, ~ .. deep a1 each
centerpoint aligning the index line 011 the
fence with the reference lines on the jig,
After drilling the lop dowel, nip the jig
over and drill tho bottom dowel.
ASSEMI)LV. AOer drilling, I assembled
the gallery rail by gluing the spindl~ into
both of the dowels. refer to Fig. 8.
WOODSMITH

NOTE: PRESSDOwn
AGAINST FEN(:E

( _ .... ,

SUPPORT

STRETCHER
OOWEL
""""_I

mEN ROU INTO

UPRIGHT

_.

STRETCHER
OOWEL
_fOUIl

eo,...

n""L

LAY 0U1 ." .....

UNts ()t.l
TOf'

Jo!IUOl

AND lorrOM

ill

.Yf}!
':

DOWElS

2'

~'''-.
.. '"
--!.:'..
-

1'1.

/
17'

gos~S(!;UON
(tNO Vltw)

1~....

NOTE,

,..,.

ENOSOF nHONSANCt .no MU$l

aE RUSH

~
1 ~..-

NOff,

RGUItI' 7

MAlt!( toni $IDES WfTH

SQUAll, ClN'TtItf'OlN1
IS e.nwtfN MA.US

,,

_.

ctNTfJl

SlRefCtlER

oow ... !tAILS

'..
.

z woce

.
I

SCitFN

ONOllutn

DECORATIVE STRETCHER
OOWEl RAil

NOTE:

SI'INOt,I.S At! AVAIlAILE,

SlE

souaas

ON PAGE 24

CROSS

secnos

AGUaf 9

,."t ON Tor !ND OF RONT

Uf'UGHTS (SEE D!TAll,

.P..ElAII.

AtONT UNIGKl IOnOM (NO

.,;. THtouGH HO,,"S

-Gf" or.

IV.

..L~.__

After the round tenons are cut on the ends

of the stretcher dowels. work can begin on

the long upright pieces Cor the easel frame.

--/

1-.' ..

THE FRAME UPRIGHTS

fRONT ....-/

UPRlGHTS

,".-

To make the front uprights (I). I ripped

4/4 stock (',.' actual thickne ) IV,'
DETAIL
wide by 66" long, see Fig. 9.
GAUfRY HOlE
DRILL HOLl!S. These uprilL pieces are
joined together to the stretcher dowels by
drilling four y,'-dJa. holes in each uprighL
Two of the dowel holes are centered and
I' from each end, see Detail in Fig. 9.
Another hole is located 24'" from the top
end of each upright.
There is one more bole near the top of
.owtlt HOIi
AUGH Tor S1'tfTOQ
each upright for the bottom do"el oC the
DOWB. WITH tof> HOtf
gallery rail. To locate this hole, measure
the distance between the tenons on the
assembled gallery rail, see Detail in Fig.
9. Now drill the eight holes on both front
uprights, see Fig. 9.
PEG HOLS. The picture/art Crame.
placed OD the easel are supported by "tie
pegs." (See Sources, page 24.) Drill 3
series of holes on the front edge of the
.P..ElAII.
front uprighl>; for these pegs, I!C<l ~'ig.9.
TOP[NO OF ucs
44<4SUPPORT PIlMf.&. 11.e same b..,,;c pro." THROUGM MotES
/
cedure is foUowed U) make the two ICglI
(E) for the suppo~ Ih.mc, The"" two legs
OJ'" cut lV,' wide by oWV." long, see f.'ig.
l v.~
10. Then mark the centerpoiJ1Ls for tho
J----'~44-j- holes at the ends.
There's one change though. 'I'lte holes
ab the top ends of these leg'll arc 'y,"
diameter (the full diamewr of the dowel)
instead of .e' diameter. This way the
BAR
llNGTH Ofmiddle dowel can slide all the way through
LOOf BAR IS CUT
this hole, so the tenon fits Into tho front
OVlltSllfD
upright, refer to Detail in Fig. 17.
After the 0/.,'-dia. Lop holes are drilled,
drill the remaining four Mo'-dia, holes for
the other two dowels, see Fig. 10.

TOLAY
0UT~C.t::tt~~~

NOTE:

OIILL \... - PlG HCUS

- DRP. aNTt:tEO ON
THIICI',NS$ Of UCH WltlGHt

"""",'0

SUPPORT
FRAME
LEGS

l ....
,.OH
aonOM ENOS

V. ~-

RGUaf 11

(<!>LOCK

'f.-

t'l."

DOWll

1-.

.....

CROSS SECllON

LOCI( BAR

OOw.~.~~~_
..

These two frames are connected with a

lock bar (Fl, see Fig. 11. The length oC the

NOTE:
DO HOt GlUl Yoo'"
oowu. MO fIU.Cl
AT n..s TIMt

_.2

00 NOt GfT
GWf INTO tCDf.'
UP'IOtl'

LOCK BAR

DETAIl
(-YIfWl

(WAST'

lock bar is the key to the angle of the easel

During the design phase, we determined the length to get an II" angle Cor
the easel. This length aloo detAtnnilll>dthe
position of the middle stretdler dowel on
the support frame. <,Vben the easel is
rolded down. the lock bar fiLs over the
middle dowel, see Fig. 12.)
Since this distance has already been
determined, the reverse proc:edure is used
to cut the lock bar U) 1ength. That is, cut
the lock bar to a rough length of 23", t<OO
Fig. 11. 'lllen drill a o/.,'-dia. bole centered
I" from one end, see Detail in Fig. 11.
Now, insert the boetom dowel (the one
with the lock bar kerf) through this hole.
To keep the Jock bar from loo/kit/g, I
drilled a W-dis. hole in the top edge.
Later a '4' locking pin dowel is inserted
through this hole and into the kerf cut in
the bottom dowel.
WOOOSMITH

10

('

Temporarily assemble
the easel. as shown in ~'ig.12. Then marl<
the position of the notA:hIlO it will fit over
the middle dowel. Aller these marks are
made, cut off the end oC the lock bar W'
beyond the mark, see DeWI in ~~g.
12.
ROUND ENDS. Before actually outting
the notclt, r "",nded the ends of the lock
bar. Thi$ is also done on both ends of tbe
uprighL' (0) and leg>;(E). Mark a radius
of 1%" on bolh ends of all five pieces.
Then out the radius to shape on a bsndsaw.
ROUND EDGES. Next, round over the
edges of all Jive pieces. [ did this with a
..... round-over bit set 0/0. high to create
modiJied bullnose look. see I~g.13.
CUT NOTCH.Now the notA:bcan be out
out. see DeW! in Fig. 12.
MARK NOTCH.

BULLNOSE

DETAlt

GWI TlHON
~,__

---_

tH1'O HOU

DIIIV~ Otl
TINON WEDGe

<,

~.SAHOAW.Y
txrIA ILNGlK

WEDGED"NON

All of these pieces are asse mbled by gluing

the round tenons in the holes of (be
uprights. To strengthen this jOint, I cut
ke,fs on the ends of the tenons WId tapped
in wedges, see Fig. 15.
KERF JIG. To eut tho kerfs, r made a
simple jig. Drill a W'-din, hole at one end
of. piece of scrap, see Fig. 14. Then cut
a 4long kerf down tho length of the scrap.
(This creates "pincher" (HeeI. on the end
of the sersp.) Now cut kerf into the jig
MI'088 Ill. middle of the hole.
CUT KERFS.Place n round tenon in the
hole in the jig and clamp tllOjig in a vise,
sec I'ig. 14. Then saw 11W'.decp kerf in
the end or tbe tenon.
CUT WEDGES. Now the wedges can be
made. Set the rip rence on the table saw
to cu~a strip equal to the t.hidmess of the
kerf in the end or the round ~1lO1lS.see
Step I in Fig. 16.
Then reset the fence to rip strips \4"
wide (the diameter of th. round tenons),
sec Step 2. Next, cut 'I(,".longpieces off
these strips and sand the end. to a point,
11<..., Oetail in Fig. 16.

INTO ICERf

OH_
TtNOH
URII16

FINCt

10 CUT STlI'r_,..,,1

Of_

[QUAl TO

,_US

o(COIATlVl

OAUl."

"".

IlETM

(an AWAY VIEW)

MIDOI.f
---

STtEToc.tlt
DOWB.

..",-<~_

"0

ASSEMBLY

fIDaUy, tho frames can be ,,!;sembled. I

started with the support frame. Glue the
middle and bottom dowelt! between Ille
two support legs (E). Then slide the u>p
dowel throUgll the top holeR.
The front Cram. i. assembled by first
IIliding tbe lock bar (F) over the bottom
.tretcher dowel. Theil glue in the Il."
locking Pin. see CI'O&! Section in Fig. 11.
Now glue the end. or the bottom dowel as
well as the middle and the top galle'1' rail
between the two front uprights (0).
When the frames are glued wgether,
UKe a toolllpick to put Il litUe glue in lhe
kerfs, and push the wedges in 1'1_. Let
the glue dry, then cut tho ends off and
sand them flush with the surfaee.
FINISH.When everything is a! !mbled.
I sanded the easel frame smooth and
applied two eoats of Wnlt oil """""h.
WOOOSMITH

""""
wmGE

NOTE: A$SfM6.LE iU~T

fMM[

ANO

STlllQiR OOWDS to ON! U".IO!'fJ

"lei,

THIN AnAOf

Ci) loo(

OTHER U'ItIOHT

8AII

"IN I..OCIC

"'liN

PLAC.
L

I[

Picture Frame Molding,_s _

HOW TO MAKE TEN CLASSIC PROFILES
Making a picture frame ought to be
one of the easiest projects in woodwooong. It's just four strips of wood
joined with miters. But there are a
few eensiderations,
First, of course, is the profile of the
molded pieces. The easiest way to cut
(he profiles is on a router table using
standard router bits, At first, we
thought. this would limit the variety
of profiles we could produce. Wrong.
\'ery quickly we came up with
about three dozen profiles using jU$t
eight standard router bits. (See
Sources, page 24.) There are dOZOllS
of other options once you ge~ into it.
On the following pages, are ten
profiles thllt are just a sampling of the
profiles you can create. It starts with
a very basic molding tJl.~s made by rounding the li.'Qntedges of strips of stock. Then
we added variations. When you get down
to it, all of these moldings are just variations of Simple TOuter cuts,

thick), a mat (if needed), t,he I)hoto Or

print itself, and the backing material.
(If you need a deeper rabbet for an oil
painting or a piece of needlepoint
tJlat's mounted to a stretcher frame,
see the alteruarive method ill Talking

Shop, page .22.)

F~

handling. I usually add a fell' inches to

aUow for the snipe (divot) that occurs at
the ~l11ing and end of cuts.
HOI.J) DOWN. Alter the sbips are cut,
the profiles COl" be routed, Th~ key he ..,
is
to keep uniform pressure on the strips
CHOOSING THE WOOD
so Ute prnflles are always consistent.
Although any wood <an b. used to make
One of the easiest ways to get even
a frame, we generaUy took three criteria
pressure is to use a grout trowel, see
into account, First'J the grain of the '\'00<1 drawing below. (These are rubber botshould be somewhat subtle so it doesn't
tomed trowels used to smooth grout when
compete with the picture it's framing. installing ceramic tile. They're available at
Second, the wood should machine well hardware stores and home cente rs, )
(with a minimum of cl,ipping and burning).
The trowel is also a gooa idea because
And third, the stock must be straigltl.
it keeps yow' fingers well away from the
Walnut and che"ry are good choices.
bit when routing small strips.
Poplar is a good choice if you plan to psint
the frame, (poplar accepts paint well.) Oak
is okay on narrow strips, but the grain
may be too wild on wider sbips.
CUTTING THE PROFILES

For all the moldings, the first step is to

cut the stock III initial ebe. This step is
critical, The strips must be straight and of
uniform width arid thickness. If not, when
the profiles are routed there will be uneven contours, and the profiles will not
matA:hat the mitered comers,
LENGTH$.Before routing any profile,
cut t,he strips to size. The basic width and
thickness of the stock used for each profile
is show" on the following pages.
On several of these moldings, at least
one strip ls shown as 10/14,l" tih.ick.This is
the standard thickness for hardwood lumber. However, all of these profiles will
work the same if the stock ts somewhere
between :y,. and lo/ttf.
As for length, you just need manageable
lengths that are long enough for the
finished frame pieces plus enough for easy

12

ROOTING Tlfl'l PROFfl,E. When the

strips are pusl,ec'througb the router bit,
use a constant rate of feed and be prepared
so you don't have to stop at any time. A
pause eancreate. dimple 0.' burn mark in
the prome.
If" profile is. deep one, I usually make
one Or two roughing cuts. Then for the
final cut, I make a very light pass to elean
up the surface.
RAllll&TS. All of the profiles include a
rabbet on the back side to hold the picture.
This rabbet should be at least 11.0" deep to
allow for a piece of glass (usually %to

GlITI'lNC RABBElS. Rabbets can be

cut a variety o[ ways. WeJre showing
them being cut on a router table with
a straight bit. 'I'his works fine, except
for chipout.
When a straight bit is used, the two
sides of the rabbet are cut in one pass.
The side that's cut by -the top of the
bit tends to chip out. ThiS 'Wouldn't be
a problem except this is usually the
.... corner that fares the picture and is
..visible from the front of the frame.
1'0 avoid this ehipout, there's a trick to
cutting rabbets on the router table. Make
a light.first pass 1xu;J,.,..",ds, see Step 3 at
the top of the next page. Set up the router
table to cut a narrow .rabbet (full depth,
but only about VI~'wide). Then push the
strip through the bit working 5'Qm left to
rigbt (rather than the usual procedure of
right to left).
When using this method, the bit has
tendency to grab the workpiece and pull it
forward, so keep your hands out o~ the
way and use the grout trowel. This backward cut will produce a clean shoulder.
Then complete the rabbet by making
another pass at full width.
GROOVESAND INLAY$.One more tip.
Some of the pl'Qules have inlay snips set
into grooves to add to the l)roliJe. It's very
difficult to get an exact iit of the strip into
the groove, (&th the strip and the groove
would have to be cut pe..recUy.)
To get around this problem, cut !;he
groove ..s normal, but cut the strip just a
tiny bit wider than the groove, (It should
fit in, but very snugly.) Then very gently
taper the sides of tile strip so it wedges
into the groove. This taper can be made
with one or two passes with a block plane
or a hand scraper.
The tapered sides of lhe strip will wedge
light against the edges of the groove .. Just
don't make it too tight or it will split the
molding. And, you want it to "bottom out"
in the groove so it doesn't have "waves."
THE MOLDINCS. On the next five pages
\ve're showing a variety of profiles. The
firs~page shows a simple rounded profile
with two options. Then there are four
profiles suitable for larger frames, And
finally, three profiles that could be used
with 5x7 or 8,,10 photos.

WOODSMITH

This
frame a popular
look. It's also a good starting

~ROSS SEcnQN

design because of it's basic, uncluttered

ror many variations. In this
example, the molding begins as a strip of stock '0/,,' square.
But it can be ,f Square, or 14'"square for verN small frames.
The profile is made by rounding over l,\VO edges willl a Y.'1"
round-over bit, Steps 1 and 2. Then a rabbet is cut to hold the
picture and glnss. To prevent chipout, cut the rabbet in two
passes, First, make a bacl.~oord. cut (refer to text at 1.1t) only
11. e'" wide, Then make a full cut V-t" wide to complete the l"'abbet.
VARIATION. We also made a wider version with t\VO '4"
grooves (Steps 5 and 6) and inserted contrasting strips of wood.
is

ClIt srock to size. Rolmd 0'"

edge loitl, ~ ... rtYU11d-over bit.

ROUT
OPf'OSffE
EOG~

The" ''Ol,>Id outer frollt edge

Ivilh

*'"

"o'f.'/taoV67'

bit,

Pi,'$!,pass for mbbel i8 a ligilt

"backwards" cut (S "':tt).

C()mpleJ.6 rab6et by .'OUting to

ji,ll1Ui(UJ! ,.Uil, s/,mig/a bit.

CROSS SEcnON

'',,~

ri.J..

j_"'---'---!-I~

Variation:

Sa.'~6a8 freme

Oross Section: Srock i. ctu:

wider a>ulinlay. are added.

abave except. wider 'Ifill< ;1Ilo.y.

CROSS SECTION

C.. t first stnip 1'h,' high.

ROll"d, edges and

WOODSMlTH

Cllt

rabbet.

Ct,t scc(md Sfl";ll to fit raiJiJet

and Mmd (In. edge.

R01tt

ship

III' g?'OOlJe iu: seao'lld

to accept third strip.

Cut third st.,.;pu"tl TlI:l",d

edge. TMI< tn,n to v,: wUW.

13

Although
it 1oo1<$ complex. this molding is relatively easy to
milk. and yields a dramatic frdllle. It starts out as a strip Io/.{
wide by
(or ly.") thick (we USIldcherry), see Cress Section
at right. Then ~' and 'h' grooves are routed Ior haIfround
inlay stripe, Stepe I and 2. Alter the grooves are routed, use a
,,{ core box bit to cut wide cove, making multiple passes to
extend it out to the edge of the strip, Step 3. To complete the
profile, switch to a W' core box bit On the inside edge, Step 4.
Before lidding the inlay stripe, out" rabbet to bold the artwork
and glass, Step 5. Then cut two .'tripe (we USIldwalnut), round
the edges, and cut orr to form the haIfround inlay strips.

CROSS SE_CTlON

'v.,'

,
'.1; 110

~~--~--~~i-

Ir---II.-

. ,
.:

--_"r"~

COIIf

.ox

III

c..t

.took UJ size. Ro,d 1/,".

g1'O(1Ve

fin' lwJ[-ro..nd itlloy.

Ilo,,,t .~ groov6 for seco"d

inlay. Note depth Of groove.

ROUND

Make repeated passes .6ith

core IxM; bit to eta awe to edge.

AU. fDGfiS

IlOUN.

Complete profil" IIY routillg

11,' COt~ on edge of .tock.

All EOGES

v.~.
IfADi.O
INLAY

1'1{'-

.J.

~1.~

to\.

,
'10-

IIADD

R'OUNOOV(I

INlAY

an

Cut rabbet with .tmight bit to

ru:cept picture alld glas s.

rup j,,/oll .trip to siz and

",,",d 0116)' both. ",IU'.'

Large strip is made tlu: same

way Oil Ihe router lable.

C,a a Iwl/'TUI",dstrip off both

edgeJI 'lIld gt,.. inlo groolJC8.

If

CROSS_~~gIO_"

you WlUlt to add color to a frame, paint one of the strips. We

painted the inside strip on this molding with gOld leaf paint to
hij(l1lillht the inside edge.
This mokling is mild. by joining two strips. The outside .trip
starI8 out
(or -Y.") thick by 1'11i(wide. OVe USIld w1IInut
for this strip.) Then the edges are rounded with a W' reend-ovee
bit, (St.<:pI). and a rabbet is cut to hold tbe second strip, Step 2For the second strip we USIldpop1ar (wbieb aorepts paint well).
This strip iii out square t<) lit the rabbe~ en the .first strip. Then
a Y{ eave is out on one comer. Step 3. Finally. a rabbet is out
in it to hold the picture and glass. Step 4.

'v.,'

Rou.ut .ver both edgCfJof strip

with ~. round-over bit.

14

C.,I rabbel "" first strip In

Mild .""",d slrip ilt plc~.

Second strip is out

ItI.18 '..1."

I !

--..\. ,._

,.,_.y....__..

, .....

t;QV6

'A.'

SqIU'$ 011(1

on ous corner.

Rabbet i$ Cld 10 IIoid picture.

TI.. " slrip i. IlIJ.j)lttdgold.
WOOOSMITH

U wally frdl1les have a profile thnL tapers down to the picture

on the inside edge. Th;' one takes the opposite approach. The

t:ROSS SECTION

r
''''11"
'Tf---

profile sOOI'"up from the outside edge to create something like"

shadow-box. Agnil1. thill molding is 111<)(le
with two strips.
The outside strip starts with 0/1' flute, Step 1. Then II 0/.'
round-ever bit is 1L'Ied to create an ogee curve with a shoulder,
Step 2. To mount the second piece a groove is cut (Step 3), and
then the outside edge is cut off to create a rabbet, Step 4.
The ...,.,00 strip starts with a W' nute, Step 5. Then use a
~'l'Ound-<>verto make the ogre profile (Step 6) and round over
the top edge, Step 7. Firuilly, trim the strip to fit the rabbet.

'INCe

rf

",'

L---'-r'-'_.t_

1". ... -

ROUT GROOVE

IN TWO'A$$S

.. '.

,7
__

."

I(NO!

111M 10

""'"

_".

ST.AIGHT

CORi80X

c..t 0. -Ii,' flsit

SAW SIADt!

.,1

elT

alo/lg Ih_

Then use a

.tj"fIf

ro,,1Ukwer bit

o"l~j""edge of Ik. ji ...t .trip. to cmlte an agee profile.

U8e a straight bit 10 Tf)l(1 0

to /told s=nd strip.

C"I off UtO adgc 0/ .Irip to

To comp~tethe ._"d .trip.

TO,wd OtICr th~ IQp edge.

F;1I41Iy. trim strip

create ml>belot. '/I$id, edge.

gr60IX

TlOMTO

.......

WilTH

,..''

ROUNOOYtIt
lit

S<rd strip sian. with (} ,,,.

J1l1t~on tne edge of 81ri".

Tlum a 14- rof("d-OlJ(r:r bit i8

,<Sed to creue an age" ,rroflle.

gQSS sgIOJ~

\vny to c.'Cut.c.a smooth conten'I)OI'8ty look is to round

over all the e>dge8 t.o let the pieces now together. This frame is
really a variation of the frame shown at the top of page 13, except
One

with a eoved piece added to widen the whole frsme .. The extru
width is niter for ~r
prints or artwork.
Once again. this molding starts by rounding over both edges
of the strip, Step I. Then cut a 'Vo,' (or
rabbet to aeeept
the second strip, Step 2. To make the wide cove in the second
strip, use a .!" c..'OI'C box bit and make 8u(.'(.,'()f:Sivepasses to widen
the cove out to the edge of the strip, Stell 3. P;1llllly, rout a ra bbet
to accept Ill. picture nnd gllI..<s, StAll>4.

.",."

%.,

dol,., to fit

rebbet, otld glue itl. place.

'\

J_L--f~~'~_~vJl-:i'

1.-"1"--

ROUIIH

..

stVtW PASSlS

..~~
COQIOX
lit

Rout both edgea

of f".1 .trip

witlt ~ .. round-ot.-n- bi.t.

WOODS~UTH

Tit-en CILt a I,," (or ~ ..)

robOet to <=Ct f(((IIrd strip.

Second ttrip has wide cere

.,Uldt wilh .,~

~.

Seeoud strip i. <o"'pitled

cutti>tg robbet for ~

by

.." .

15

CBOSS SCIJON

The
three rro""", shown on this page are designed for small
frtlmes ($x 10 or ~ma1Jer). The first one starts out as a square
strip. ('IV.ro showing '.y.,( square, but it could 00 %" or even
smaller ror .mall photos.) Use a !/So" round-over bit to round both
edl(e'\ Ie.\\'ing a ~" shoulder, Step I. To create the double round
effect, make another"",", on both edges with the '4" round-over
bit, Steps 2 and 3. Then cut the rabber for the photo. Step 4.
VARIA110N. The same basic frame takes on " \'etj. traditional
look by oukling a burl veneer to one edge of the strip (which adds
about Yu" to the heiJlht or the strip), Then round the edges with
Mo" round-ovcr bit, lca,oing a Yo," >illoulder, Step 5.

""

MaS
INCE

',.'

,.'

Round oogeJJ ",ith ';." ,owtd.

over, leaVi11!J 'hOI slwuldtr.

.....

Rolate strip 900 u"d ro""d

r;lIollJdcr U/I'IJ, saffle hit.

(Jl'tr

roU1ld over other sh.oldder.

Cut ra.llbel
Q<:C1Ipt

ADO VlHlR

STa1P 'fOal
ROUTING

RoIale sbip 10oilier edge altd

0" ba(k cdge 1<)

plwto alld gla$$.

C!!.OSSSEgOI!!

. h,.,..,.,..,....,-rl
,
IN""
ItOONOOVlR,
lIlT

J
Vi.-

SHOUlOlt

Variation: Add /n"t vcoeer US" 'I/' ro""dou"r on bol/,

.dges. leauillli ,/,/' .hOIl/dol.
to .trip and rtilUtd oogC$.

Complek>strip by Y(fU!.i1ly""b
bet 011 back edge.

Cross Section: Burl. ve/leer

adds about 'h," 10 tllicklle88.
CROSS SECTlQf!!

Even on small I'rnlllCII you can add a second strip that's painted
or .. made !'rom a eontrastlng wood. In this case, the first strip
is only

1(," wide. ReO Cross Section at right. Then both top edges
are rounded with a 'It round-over bit, Step 1. To add the second
strip. a groove L, routed with a Y," strnight bit, Step 2.
To make the second strip. rip a strip y," thick by about I"
wide, Step 3. """n use 'Ii' eore box bit to rout a small rove on
the edge, k:a\ing a ttl' shoulder above the CQ\e. FinaU~r. trim
this strip down toW wide <Step ~). and glue iL into the groove
in the first strip. The second strip will automatica1ly create a
nbbet ror the photo and gIa..<s, see Cross Section at right.

"..

, J

-~. .... l.1--f.

,.

"'0

RNISHH)

-..

WID'"

'

... SA.WIlAOf

Cut .trip 'I," wide Wid rowtd

over boU, lop edges.

16

/)il

0''00"'

willi. 'h" straight

to lIo/d tlw ."eolld strip.

ellt

C.d ,,,"-tJdtk

8eCOlul

strip and

caLL cove lui-fit, 1/'1/' S/14ft-lller.

Rip _ltd .'rill -Y/, wi<k (!ltd

g(lW ill groove 10 (.'I'CO./" rn/)/Jcl.

WOODSMITH

Desk Frame
GIVE IT YOUR BESTSHOT
process.) And glue the frame pieces

We W8ntOOto build. selfslMding

frame - without. uNihg one or those
cardboard back. with the hinged
flap. Aftera ~UI~experimenting,
we came up with a \\'&y to mount. the
ftrune to a s mall angled base.
T11Ctrick is

t-o

together.
GROOV&. When the frame is dry,

rout """wide groeve centered on

the bottom edge for the key. I cut
this groove on the router table u$ing
.tol>" on We fence to limit tbelength
of the groove, see Fig. 3. (The
groove should stop Vo' from the
outside edgtlS o[ the frame.)
Rout. in successlvely deeper
passes until the bit cuts through we
groove on the inside edge of the
frame. (Ket>p this set-up for routing
the matehing groove in the base.)
THE IlASB.To make the base, I
~imply ClIt a 10' bevel on a block of
wood . see Fig. 4. (Note: For safety.
start with a block about l2" long.
and cut it to final lengtll after the
bevel i. eut.)
Next. I cut a groove to match the
one in the bottom of the frame. U""
the same set-up (with the stop
blocks) on the router table to rout a

CUI.n groove in the

bottom of the frame and a matching

groove in the i>as4>. Then join the
two "ith a key. refer 10Fig. 1.
This groove-and-key trick solves

the problem

of supporting the

frame. and it also provides a wIlYto

slide the photo and gIa..<s in and out
of the bottom of the frame.
MAKING THE FRAME

To make this frame. you have to eut,

the molding strips ~ttlediIl'erently
than those shown on the previous
~.
The molding for this n-ame
starts
a strip Mo" thick by ' Yo'"
(or 0/.") wide, see rig. 2. (It can be
even wider if you want a diIl'enlnt
proliJe on the molding.)
GROOV&. Then, Instead of cutting' a
rabbet in the molding strips, 1\ gl'OOve is
routOO down the inside edge to hold the
picture and glass. The width of the groove
is determined by adding the thickness of
the gllls.< (%."), tho pheto (Mot,,), and the
b;lCking (V",,). fol' u total of 0/.

I'"

fIGU"

NOTe:

IlW.EN$IONS
GIVEN ARE

PROt'lLe P.DGES.After the groove is

Oil the edges. III this

cut, rout the profile

ease, we used a 'I... round-over bit to

round over all rour edges. see Fijr. 2.
~trrBR PRA.ME.Now

miter these mold-

ins: stril>" to length to lit around t.he photo.

(See the article on page 20 for tip. 011 wis

v......deep

,......

ROUTEa

U8(l

V.

f 1

t:::.5 ,'1,.-----1

groove, see Fig. 5. Then

I0I0"round .. ve r bit to ease the edges.

THE KEY. Now. to join the frame to the
base. rip a key Yo' (to fit the width of the
l.'I'OOv ) by
(to mateh (l,e total depw
of beth grooves.) Then round the ends to
match the groov es,
ItOUT 1.INrI. &It
CUTS INfO tNSlOe
GROOvr

~~

RNa

fOIl.'

"eTUt rs

PETAII

aNlB GltOOYf
ON THIQCHE$$
OF srodc

IIA$'

...

ISCUY

Tom

GROOVES

\VOODSMITH

17

Miter Jig

TAKING THE PAIN OUT OF CUTIING MITERS

In order to cut molding pieces to
make 0 frome, there are two
basic criteria. f'irst, the ends of
all picces must be mitered at
eXllctly 4,,. And, like pieces of
lb. fram. (lb. toplbottom, and
the two sides) must be exnelly
lb. same length.
The clI8iest way to accomplish
bolb tasks is to buDd a miter jig.
The jig I use """ two fences for
cutting the miters at 45, and an
ad,iust.ab1estop block for cutting
the pieces to exacI. lengths.
THE BASE

To make the jig. begin by cutting

a base out of .. cabinet grade
plywood. 'lJ1' x 24.
Timjig cuUI ~5""'lion 011 IIl1J1ding ~rip8lor For 1M 8tJ1td eut, 118<0~
Itflce. pU3i!i'lil
The jig is guided on the table picture frames. The jint Cld it made on (lU (he fim .IId ogai"03! lit< 3top block to 3d tengfh.
saw with a guide runner. To pie8 with the 1I!oldj"9 (l{f<IillJt IIw top ItnaJ.
The" ,,<iter til_ other ettd of 1M pi.eB.
mount. this runner, cut. a dado
about 6" &om one edge, see Fig. 1. (De- down to l'It tlqunrc. and cut it to a lengtb this jig;', to align lbe fi...t-eut fence exactly
pending on your saw, position it so lbe of 8", see Fig. 2.
90" to the second-cut fenoo, and also to
right edge of the plywood extends beyond
SECONOO\Tl'..:NO. The second-cut
make sure both rene.. are 4&to lbe right
the right side of the blnde, see Fig. 1.)
fence is made from two Wil'" of ."-thick edge of the b:lJIC(lbe path of tile blade).
C(1ll)E RUNNER.A~r cutting lbe dado,
stock with two 81"ICO)' blocks between
PRAMINO SQUAIIB. 'ro align the two
cui a guide runner from hardwood to fit in them. 'fhCl\Cspacers fonn a %" slot used fences, I used n fnulling square. Lay the
the dado. I made it about I longer than to mount the stop block, see Fig. 2.
square on !lIe b,18O 110 the 12"mark (on the
lbe plywood base 80 ii'. easy to see and
To make the
resaw a piece of inner edge of the fIotuningsquare) is on the
posiilon in the 81o~on the table saw.
."lbick stock down to %" thick. Then bottom right-hand comer, see Fig. a.
T1UM 00&. Now the right edge of the
cut all' spacer blocks 6" long and J Yo" long,
Then place the other 12" inside mark on
base tall be trimmed off, see Detail in Fig. and glue them between the two strips.
lb. right edge of th. base. This gives the
L Cut this edge wilb the saw blade you'll
STOP, BIA)CK PENCI(. The stop-block
aligDJnellt you need. 80th IIl'mS are 90" to
use to cut the miters so the edge or the fence ;" made the same way as the oocond- each other, and they're 45 to the right
plywood is e,ulclly in tine with the blade.
rut fence bet. it's longer. and both spacers edge or the baRe.
are only II!. long. see Fig. 2.
MOIM!' PENCt:S.To a"""" the first"",t
FENCES
SQUARI(UP PENCt:S.'Vben the glue is fence (Al, slide it 8g1linst the framing
The jig""" three fences: a first"",t f...,.
dry on the oetOnd""'l fence and stop-bIock
square so one end is at the 6' mark. see
(A), a scrond"",t fence (8), and a stop- fence, square up lhe front and bad< edges
Fig. 3. Then glue it in place.
block fence (C). (First.rut and second-cut on a jointer, or by ripping a new edge.
Next. position the second-en rence (8)
refers to lhe <IItling sequence of cutting
ag:Unst the other inner edge of tbe framing
ASSEMBLEJIG
square. (Make sure the end wilb lbe short
the miters Oil the Ii-.une pieces.)
FIRST.(;\TI' FENCE.To make lbe firskllt
Now the fenlS can be mounted to the spacer is in the inside Corner of the
fenoo (A), I used 2.4 stoek, Trim the stock
plywood boISe.'I'h. critical part of malting
sq\l8l"Cl.)'I'h.n glue it in place,

.pllO.....

ffiR~~mR~'~~--------------------------'
HAlIOWOOO
RUNN(A

DI:TAlL

'Vl' SQUARE
SflAC!RS,
~ .. fHICk

FIRST CUT

FtNCE

\... -I 'h" SQUARE

STOCK

18

WOODSMlTH

STOpBLOCKPENCE.There's on. more

fence to attach. Use a ~tfaightedge to align
the stop-block fence (C) with the S!!OOnd
cut fenee, see Fig. 4. Allow a $V. space
between the two fences to create a gap for
the molding pieces, refer to photo.
TlUM ENDS. 'Vhen the fences are positioned, 1 added screws to secure them in
place. Then place the jig 'on the saw and
cut off the ends that, are hanging over the
rigbt edge.
STOP BLOCK At this PQint the fences
IU" aligned to cut perfect 45" angles. MI
that's needed is a stop blQCk.I made the
stop block (0) from a piece of %"thick
stock cut to width to match the height of
the fences, see Fig. 5.
CIJ'l' CIlAMPERS. After cutting the stop
block to size, cut 45 chamfer's on the ends,
see Fig. 5. These chamfers hold the end
of the workpiece with the iil'St miter as
the second miter is cut, refer to photo. I
also cut a small notch on the heel of each
chamfer to act as a sawdust relief.
To hold the stop block against the fence,
I drilled a counterbored bole for a 0/".
carnage bolt. (Xle sure the hole is aligned
with the slot on the sto[),block fenee.)
BLADECUAR.I).'rhe last slep is to attach
a blade guard (E) along the light edge of
the jig, see Fig 6. Cut. piece of stock with
45 miters on both ends and glue it to the
base, flush with the right edge.
TIl'S. For some tipa on USing this miter
jig, see tbe article On page 20.

FlGUR3

AUGN WITH
SECOND
CUT KNeE

)
@FlRSlCUT

!<NOt

flGV.ItE S

STOP BLOCK

@)

HEIGHT SAME

stcrne
"",e

AS

ARM MITER JIG

The sam" problems, exist on a radial ann
saw as on-a table saw. You have to cut 4[j'
miters, and like pieces have to belhe same
lengtb. One of the biggest llroblenlJl is
aligning the radial arm to exactly 45". The
solution is to build a jig without moving
parts and make straigh~ cuts with the saw.
To build 'the jig, I cut the 16"x 24" base
from o/,j' plywood, see. Fig. 1.
FENCES. Then there are two fences, a
righlrhand fent.. (Used to make the ill'St
mitel' cut) and a. Ieft-halld fence (used to
make tbe $CeOlJd-eul). Both fences are cut
2"-wi<leby ~8'long.
RG<J., ,
LAYOUT

Then draw a line down the outside of glue dries, screw tlll' fences to the base.
the triangle for the leJl;,hand fence. .Flip
MOUNTJIG. To prevent the jig from
the triangle over to make another 45 line shifting position, r drilled holes and sefor the ,ight.-halld fence.
cured if to the table with hex bolts. i';ou
ALIGN !'ENG$. To make sure the.fences
could also clamp the jIg to the table,
stay at 90" to each other, [ set a framing
USINGTHE JIG. To use tJ,e jig, cuL the
square along the reference lines with the firs miter on one end of all pieees with the
corner on the ,-erei"nee point, and clamped stock tight against the right.-hand fence.
it to the base,
Then clamp a stop block to the letlrhand
To position the fences, place the enda of. fence. Now position Ufe fil'$t mite" c~l
each fenee aL the 2" marks on the outside tight into the chamfered end of the stop
of the framing square. Then glue and block, and cut all pi~
to the correct
clamp the fen..,. to the base. When the length. see IJ'ig. 2.

~,_;:--c=----r---::::::;::

ANGLES

I'Jl,et cutting the fences, I laid

them out on fbebase. To do th~,

first draw a renter line on the
base, see Fig. J. Then measure
down 3" from tbe top of the base
and. mark a centerpoint. ('),'h~ is
a reference point for laying out
the angle of the anns.)
IJSE 1'RIANG(.E. Now, to position the fences, lay a 46' irIangle
On' the base with the 48' angle
carner seL on ~he reference
point, $ee Fig. L
WOO1)SMITH

90'

RIGHT HA~

,.-

fft(cE

NOTE,
OONT CUT TOO

FAR tNTO JiG

19

Frame Details
TIPS AND TECHNIQUES FOR A PERFECTFRAME
Making the molded pieces for ~ picture frame is only bnlf the fun, The
other bnlf is cutting the four frartle
pieces with perfect miters. The challenge, of course", is to create a frame
with no gnps at the comers, Okay,
then why do gaps always seem to
appear in the miters?
Gaps in the mitered comers of a
frame can be a result of four things:
1) the miters may not be cut at
extU:Uy 45"; 2) the oPP<>llitepieces in
the frame aren't =tJ.y the same
length; 3) the pieces wer-en'b
"_lampe<! witb the miters held tight
in the first place; or 4) the. frame
piec... have expanded or contracted
(with changes in humidity),
The lirst two problems can be
solved by following a good cutting
procedure and using a miter cutting
jig (such as the one shown on pages ~g.19),
The clamping problem can be solved with
one of the frame clamps shown on pages
22-23, The fourth problem is just a matter
of age - and no one has resolved that
problem. (See Talking. Shop on page 22,)
SmlNG

UP THE SAW

to cut miters is
pretty easy. The first thing to consider is
the saw blade, When cutting miters, I use
a carbide-tipped crosscut blade. Combination blades are nice most of the time. But
I use a crosscut blade with 60 or 80 teeth
(such as the Freud thin kerf LU88M or
LU85M) to cut miters. These blades make
nice smooth cuts that are easier to glue.
ST BLAD&' Even with a OI'fect blade,
you can still have problems. Wl)en the
blade is mounted, check it with a try
square to make sure it's exactly 00' to ~he
top of the table.
The procedure we use

CunlNG THE MITERS

When the saw is set up, work can begin

on mitering. the frame pieces to length.

But this is 'lIJ~just a matter of cutting 45'

MlTR JlC. 'rhe basic _procedUl-e

is to cut a 45 miter on
of
au pieces [Jl:S(' Then tbe otl,el' end
is mitered to fum! length.
You have several ways to go
here. The. miters can be made with
the miter gauge on a table saw or

0"" ."d

on a radial ann saw, Either way,

miters, There are Iwo critical measuremeats he..." The miters must be 45', 'q"d
~he opposite pieces of the frame (t'he two
sides, and the_topibottom) must be exactly
the same length.
The procedure I follow has a lot to do
with this second criteri a, Often too much
attention is paid to the 45' angle, But if
opposite pieces 31." not. emcllll the same
length you have effectively changed the
join~ angle, and there will be gaps even if
the miters are cut at exactly 45'.
ROVGH LENGTH. J start by cutting aU
the molding stock to rough length. Working with shorter pieces is always easier,

'1'0 determine

the rough

length,

measure the outside dimensions of the

photogtaph or pmnt you're framing, AlsO

measure the widllt of the molding stock,
Now 3(ld t\vice the width or the molding
stock to the dimensiollj; of the picture, and
add at least I" extra to give yourself some

room to work.

TS1' l'I'A1\1, Afte, all of the pieces are

cut to rough length, you can cut the miters.

However, it's always best to start with

some S<o1-ap pieces to make a test frame.

you can have problems because the

markings On miter gauges and
radial arms an' notoriously inaeeurate. I've fOW1{l that it!s worth it to
build a 'miLer jig, see page 18,
FIRST CUT. tf you're using Ute
table saw jig, the first cut is made
by 'holding the inside edge of the
molding against the '''first;cut'' fence
of the miter jig, see Fig, 1. Hold it
with a flrm grip so the piece doesn't
slid. dwing the cut, and pull the jig
back before releasing your gill>.
If you're using a miter gauge, hold the
inside edge of the molding against the face
of tile gauge. The cut is made SO the long
point of the miter leads through the saw
blade, just as in Fig. L
FeD RA'J'E..A slow, steady rate of feed
works best. If you go too fast, there's a
greater chance that the workpiece will
slip. JuSt hold it steady and let the teeth
do the cutting.
After making each cut, don't let the
strap pieces collect near
saw blade, I
clear them away with long stick.
SOOND MlT&1l. After the first miter is
cut on the ends of all the pieces, the second
mite!' can be marked. This determines the
final length of each piece
However, it's not the overall length of
each piece that counts, itls the length of
the rabbet on the inside edge of eacll piece.
The-second miter must be cut so the photo
01' print (or mat) fits between the inside
edges of the '.'Ubl>el$,
To mark this length, lay a ruler in the
rabbet of one frame piece, see Fig. 2. The
second miter is marked off on the inside
edge of the rabbet so the measurement

tl,.

fIGURE'

STOPtll~

lEHGTHOf

PICtU~E:_)
PlUS v,.'"

A1JGN PNCI~

MARkwnH
SAWTOOJ'H

20

WOODSMlTH

equals Olesize of the picture you're fram- joint. Keep it at least 00" away from the because nailing can break the glue jOint.
ing plus Yi~"extra,
e(1ge$ so it won't 007..e out, onto the faces
Deciding U)Mre to nail is a. "no-win"
The most common problem here is to of the molding.
situation. ITyou nail through the top and
makemarks on all Cour pieces and then try
CLAlIIPING UP. After the glue is applied,
bottom of the frame and then bang the
to cut exactly on the marks. This is almost quickly clamp up the four sides of the frame on the wall, you won't see the nau'
impossible to do.
frame. There's a tendency to overtighten from the sides, But I usually .."iiI on the
The miter jig is designed to eliminate here. Whatever clamping method you use, side of lhe frame (81,<1 fill the nail holes
this problem by using a stop block so two apply just enough pressure to get- the
with putty). Then. When the picture is
pieces can be eut, to exactly the same
miters to close up.
hung on the wall, there's more scppcrr fo)"
length. If you're using-a miter gauge, add
NAllS AND SPLINES
the joint.
a auxiliary fence to it so you C"dJ1 clamp on
When nailing, 1 use as small a brad as
a stop block.
Once the frame is gtued up, does it need possible (Small gauge, not small length).
CUT SECOND MlTEIto To set up ror the
any additional strength? That depends. On large frames that require larger nail_,
second cut, hold the moldiugstrip so the On small frames (8xJO and smaller), [ predrill the hoies, It'" less like~v \0 Sl,lit
out'lide edge of the mol!lingis against, the usually don't add any additional support the wood or break. the joint.
"second-cut" renee en the jig, or facing the
a.i'b;l' gluing. However, on larger, heavier
SPLlNES. Splines (scmebimes called
miter gauge.
frames, there's more weight and stress on Ieathe rs ) can abo add sb-ellgth when inMove the molding up to the saw blade the joint. Nailing (or adding 8 spline) helps sertcd into a groove cut .","<ISS the corner.
so the pencil mark aligns with one tooth bold the frame together if the glue joint
For 8 discussionof how to add a spline to
of the saw blade. (J1~is done with the should break.
a miter joint, see WO!Id$milh No. 3(i.
saw turned o/f.) Rotate the blade so a
Also, you might want to add e,Xt1"8 CLEANING UP. There are a few finn!
toolh is nlSting right on the pencil mark. support to a frame made from wide mold- steps when lhe .glue is dry on the frame.
'Vbi!e 1\01di\1gtbe molding in place, ing. In a wide piece of wood there's more 1 clean up aU the eornera with a chisel,
tighten the stop block so it's tight agninst movement with changes in'humidity. This Clll.-efuJJy
ehipping off any ghle that has
th~ mitered end, see Fig. 3.
can break a glue joint. (See Talking Shop oozed out of the miters. If the contours of
Once the stop block is tightened down, on page 22.)
the moldings don't COmetogether exactly,
turn on the saw and make the second cut
NAlLIl>IG.IT you decide to nail the frame
teatber them w,til they meet right at the
on both pieces of the frame. If you're togetJH!.1,
there are a couple or choices, joint line.
building a rectangular frame, you will with some clamp.', you can' nail it while
If there are any slight g~ps in the
have to _<\iust the stop block for tlie it's in the clamps. r like to wait until tbe
miters, I don't us'!'llly nil them with wood
other two pi~es.
glue sets and then clamp each C0111er
down putty. 'this will jus~ emphasize the gap
When this cut is made, the small waste to a bench or holdit in a vise when nailing. instead of hiding it. To mount the picture.
scraps will sometimes be ca\lght by the Whichever method, 00 sure it's secure,
1 use the procedure explained below.
blade and thrown ouL Feed slowly and 1------------------------------;
always stand to the lett of the blade.
DRYASSE.mu;. AlUlr the secon<lmiter
ts.eut on all four pieces, dry "''lSembl.the 1------------------------------;
li:rune and cheek f6r g-.ps. If the miUirs AfteJ b~ilding a fo:ame,the ne~t step is to it dustp_f. (A brown grocery bag works
don't 6t together tigi,t now, they won't mount the gla.'lS,picture. mat (if <J1eee". line.). Cut the paper a little smaller than
when they're glued either. When the sary), and bjlcking into the raooo1>o
the back of the frame, 'I'hen run a tbin
joints 'fit tJght on the serap I)ieces,the real
,NAIL IN PLACE. I use 'I,' bratl. behind
bead of yellow glue around the back edge
molding pieces can 00 cut.
the hackipg to hold everyO)ingin tigl,t. If of the frame and press the paper down.
the u=e is made ,vilh soft wood, you call
Next use a Spl"3:\t mister or damp sponge
ASSEMBLY
PI""" the brl\ds ill with needle-nosepliers. to moisten the paper weD. Keep the frame
After the miters are cut, a..'8emblcan With harder woods, it's easi.. to use a back-sideup unm the paper and glue dry.
begin. Tilere 81-e a wide vruiety of frame ~peciaJ 1001called a Brad Point Nailer. (A hail" dryw 'speeds it along), 'When jt'!.!.
clamps and m,ethods (see page 22). No (About $10 in most mail orde. ca~Qgs.)
dry, the papel"shrinks up drum tight.
matter whichclampyou use. it's important
.:).nothermethod for pressing the brads
HANGIT UP.Tbe only thing left is to
that all,four corners be glued at IJ'e same info place \ISe5 Clumnel-(,oclt pliCl"S, see hang up the frame. For a heavy
I
time.
art belo\v.'1'0 prev~nl m..mnl!' the f.=e,
use two picture hangers and wrap picture
you try to glue one $Orner at a tim~ place a piece of cardboard on the outside wire. ,through tile loops, see drawing
and then work around the frame, there edge of the u-ame. Then set the ,vidth of below. It puts IIijlSsl.J'e$son the joints to
hang a frame this way thai) from the lop.
will undoubtedly be a gap by the time you Ihe pliers and squ... .e th~ b-ad in place.
Filuilly, [ glue rubber bumpers at the
get to the last comer. By gluing them all
8ACI,mG. When eveeyOllngis in place.
at the same time, the gap will 00 spread I CClver
the hack with bl"OWl1l)Oper
to""ake bottom to keep the llictw" from shifting.
out even1y on all four COl-net'S
GLUING. J use yellow (aliphatic) glue
(such as Titebond) when joining frames. If
there's a problem ,vitl1 yellow glue, ieg
that it dries quickly, especially 011 the end
grain of miters.
The procedure ( use is to apply the glue
in little dots or lines. Don't spread it out
thin (as when gluing tl()gegrain) or it will
SO;Ut down into the end grdin and ell")'
almost immediately. Since t"e glu. is
going on a little heavier in the lines or
dots, put the glue on only one side of each

MOUNTING

1'1""',,',

WOODSMlTH

21

T_a_~_m_gSho~

SOME TIPSFROM OUR SHOP

SWEL1.ING.For Ihe same reason, if the

DEEPER RABBETS

Since we used 4/4 stock (,- to V.....

actual thickness) to make the fmme.
shown on pages 13- 16. we w ere somewhat
linrited on the <I.llth of the nlbbet on the
hack of the I'rame. !The dee.,..t rabbet on
any of the moldings i:; ~'.) In lIlOOl. 01...:-:1.
that's all you need to mount the gla.ss,
picture. and hacking.
RABBETS fOR STIIETCIIEll FRAMeS.

The rabbet may not be deep enough.

Illoo.gh, if you're planning to mount an oil
painting or needlework that', al rea dy
wrapped around a stretcher frame. A
stretcher frame il!!elr tan be .,.. thick.
You also have to add the thickn""" or the
fabric and allow room ror
to hold the
stretcher frame in place.

,.uh<

ADD BACK FRAME. To

FRAMe

~erAlt N."
"';_..h,~"L
STltITCHe.
I,'
'.A.MI'N

.... ce

When building the hack frume I cut the

pieces to width and l.nRlh so the back
frame is inset y,' from all or the .d~. or
the main I'rame. I also taper the ouu.id.
edges or the hack I'rame in toWlll"ds the
center. This dresses the rr.une up lind
shows beuer if someone looks at it rrom
the side.
OPEN MITERS

Why do mitenl on a pi<tllre (hlme ..,metimes open up after a period or time? And
why do they usually open up on an i".,dt
corner. not the oul$id.? The answ .... have
to do with the way wood ~hrinks and
swells Over time.
SHRINKAGE.IU the individunl
of
a frame dry out, most or the shrinkage
occurs across the "idth and very littl.
along the length. This means that es the
two pieces in a miter joint Sl.~rl to dry and
shrink in "idth. the angle of lhe miters
change and a gap opens up on the i".,idc
corner of the joint, see dnl\ving.

P""""'

22

--

SWtWNG

1101\'. Il'", preb-

lem, you call create a deeper rabbet by

building. second rrame (without " rabbet)
and sere,\, it to the. buck of the rn~linfhJmc.

MA'N

two pieees .hould klI.>J1I (sueh as on a humid

(lay), the inslC'lecomer "ill remain tight,
but gnp tan open up on the o,""ide
corner, see drawing. (This is less likely
though. Moro frnmes seem to dry out
when th<:heat is turned on in the winter.)

SPECIALPLIERS.Oponing up the rings

is a trick. They're so strong that you need
special tool that works lik. a pair or
snap-ring' pIi.... to "proad th. ring open.
And the tool is expensive - about $10.
To save this expense. you can make the
pIi.... out or some sera p wood. rour seeews,
a bolt. and spring. see photo. (Note:
We're offering the rings as well "" the
hardware and pIan., ror making the pliers,
see Sou rees, page 24.)

WIIAT CAN 8B DONe? Is there any \\'ay

to prevent a gal) fi"Omdeveloping? First
or aU, be. aware that the wider a frame is,
the more it can swell 01' shrink. J have 8r..ame that I built about 16years ago {tOm
some :!'.\\ride pine tnolding. When 1 builtthe Ih'IIle. the miters were light" Ove r the
yenrs, gal10lof '/ur have opened up.
Not only waa my pine molding wide. it
\Vl,,~n't very dry when r eut, the Irame
pieees, It'. best to .tart out wilh wood that
has been (hied down to under 9% moistu(e
content. {If you specify kltn-dried 113l"dwQO(I. it'l' lL"uaUy under 9%.)
f'inally. .,. mentioned in the articl. on
pagcs 20-21, you may want to add extra
support (nails or splin",,) to wide frame.
This can help rosi.'<lmovement to a certain
extent. but if there's a lot or.tuinkage, it
can bend or pull out a nail.
MlnR

SPRING ClAMPS

A PROBLEM. AllhOugh Ih ese !'ing

clamps are on. of my r.vo,il<, methods f,U'
holding mite ..., there's one problem with
them. The rings lire SO powerful they leave
slight indentatlons in the ~i(lcij or the
frame. These can be filled with a liltle
putty. 01",if you're nailing the frame nlWr
the glue dries, you can delve the n:ul~ill
at these points.
FOUR-CORNER CLAMP

Once it'~
set to the correct size, one or the
easiest Cr.uning clamps to use is a fourcorner clamp. This clamp has four corner
blocks thaI are connected by threaded rods
and thumb nuts. The rods run around the
outside or the frame and fit into thread<'II
holes in the blocks.

Every time I gel woodworking catalog

in the muil there's some new kind of
clamping system rOt frames, While work
inK on the framing art:icles ror this issue.
we decided to take look at throe popular

rrame clamps on the m.meL <See sources

ror ~
clamps on the next, page.)
Someti~
the :;implest ideas are the
best, That'. the case with miter spring
clamps. They're simply pieces or spring
.teel rod shaped into 'C-ob.pod" rings
with pointed ends. !The rings remind me
of. ring in a buD's nose.)
ROW THEY WORK. When lhe ring is
mounted on a comer of a frame, it grabs
hoth pteees and apl)lies pressure .;<aetJy
where you want il - across the middle or
the miter.

The basic clamp will hold r..ames UI) to

24" by 24', but you can buy a 1"'1-~' ""t
thaI includes more rods ami couplers to
clamp up to 48" square.
WOODSMITH

t)1

The
advantage of this clamp t. that once the
clamp is set up fol' the frame YOIl'r(!gluing,
the pieces are e.'lSYto set. into the corners.
Oue disadvantage is that, the clamp
doesn't apply the pressure toward the
cellte,. oHhe frome - that'~ the best kind of
pressure when gluing up all four comers
at the same time.
ADVANTAGE.

DISADVANTAGE.

BAND ClAMPS

Band (or web) clamps can be used to apply

even pressure around frames or just about.
any size as well as irregularly-shaped
frames and projects.
Traditional band clamps (on left in
photo) are made of nylon webbing and
usually include meta) 900 corners (01'
cL'Inlping up frames. (The corners can dent
the frame .if they're tigbtened too much.)

SHOP-MADE FRAME CLAMP

We develo~d the [111m.clamp shown here
all' an alternative to eommetl:)al clamps.
It'. made from fcur-blocks CO,",ect;ed with
thr..ade<)1'0(1. ~You can buy \II. hal'dware
locally. We'". also of(eling the hnrdware
and blocks iu l<it fonn, see page ~1.)
CUT aIANKS- 1'0 make the four corner
bloeks, $talt. by cutting three ;y.;"thici;<
blanks to wi!lth of 3y,,' and length of
)';". Next. cut a "'hili (Iado, Vi' <loop down
the centel' of Ohl) of the blanks. Then eut
off rou)' ,!".Iong pieces O'OnI ~'ch blank.
~UlU)u~
Ot..GCI\5. Since the threaded

AS$KMlll.Y.Now 8Ssem~le the fixtW'l!

by Hlippil\g ~ 36"long piece or V,"
threaded ..od through the oadoe.. Then
add wing nuts 011 belth ensL'"
U$I!GTIlE Fll\llIRE. To use the fixture,
I always start. by w,,"xing the to)) of the
blocks to keep the fl'3!lle (rom sticking if
any glue oozes out (If the miter. Then Jay
the bJoo.ksdown on n Da~'swfaee so the
threaded rods Ct08S each ot.her in an 4IX.J'!,
(Nole: Unless the frame is square, the

holding a frame (refer to !iig. 4). the

dadoes on tlVo'of thll"hl~ks can't align with
the dadoes on the othe~ two blocks. $0
when 1 built up the corner btecks, 1 built
two diff.~nl ""Is of blocks, see Fig. J.
To make the
blocks labelled "A",
glue three pie<.'<lswgether so Lbo piece
with tlte dado is in
center, Md the dado
faces up. see ~'ig. 1. 4. the two blocks
labelled "6", glue Ule dadoo<1piece On lop
wiU. the dado facing down.
ORaL BOLES.'I'he eornel's of tbe frame
are held in place between two 'f.i' X 4"
dowel pegs on top of tbe &Iocks.'1'0 ll\al<~
Um fixture '"' it holdS belth large and small
fnunO$, drill two holes etose togetne. and
two more holes f81ther """Lt. See Fig. :I.
IfUBIN'G. Next, 1 Cllt 1".10I1gpieces of
plastic tubing and sUpped \110mover the
dowels, "'0 Fig. 2. The tubing protects the
frame pteces when pressure is' applied. If
the tubing is moved l\igh on the IJOg. it
P)'CS.'!IlS
against the lop of tllo
to
offset the lIteSSI1l. applied b./ou' the
D'lIIl10.by the tbr~ad!!d red,

It takes SOme JOCkeying 1U'OWtd. [ found

tha~ cutling a piece of scrap plywood the
same ~i7A)as the frame hEllI)<; iIlilihlly nlign
the bloclql, see Fig. 3.

tJ,.

FRAMf ClAMP SOURCES

ttl 9<r,)

"'ilb this fixrods have- to cross in the center when ~ul'C. the piOOC$don't automatically align.

I.".

Recently the re have been a number of

hand clamps intrcdueed that "'>9 a steel
strap (like the ''Merle'' clampon th. light)
or heavy web that's threaded through
large metal or plastic corners and then
tightened down with a' SCJ.'Ilw handle. (The
excess strapping or web is held in a device
that ... minds me of a fishing reel.)
ADVAN'l:AGE, ISADYANTAG. The
advantage of 1111
of the band clamps ill the
unifonn pressure ~Oll can bring to bear 011
all four- comers of ttle rr..me. As long as
the miters are aU CU& to 45", tlle band
automatically pulls the joints cI~ as it
tightens lind forteS the cornel'S 5qUID"e.
MO!;tof the prolilems I've hall with band
clamps have to do with 011the e.'ce!;$ band
y,ou have. \\1hen \\'ol'king on a s:maU frame.
The excess band, and the screw hlllldles
and lal'gC contel'S on the newer st-yles, elln
get in the w.y, especially if you... assem
bling a small from .

rods won't cross

f,,,,,,.

St.... Ill' WITH PLYWOOP.

Once the blocks lit tigl1l around (he

plywood, toosen the wing nuts $Ughtl)<
(olli> turn ea<:h) and lilt out the plywQod.
Then toesen One wing' nut until it's backed
off about 1(," from Lb. block. see Fig. 4.
G~UE UP 'RAM!;;.Now '!Pply glue to the
miters on two of the frame pieces. Then
set this come.. in pillce so it1~(>PJ)l>8ii. the
teosened block. N..xt glue the l"emaininIJ
three corners an set the pieces in place,
NOWslide tbe "loose" block in aJ>(!tigh~n
all the wjng nuts.
Ar"". everything is in place, cl1eck each
corner Of the Crame (0 be SlII'e (he joints
~ t'~t\ Don't overtighten. Just b.1ng
lheni tog~tIJe,. qntil the j~int closes up.
One more thing. We found thnt this
clamp works best Ior squlU'C frames 0,.
tboRe thaL aI'I! close to sqlla.'(! (5x'7 and
Ss 10). (~s harder to hold lOng. reetanguJal'
or odd$haped r,..,,,(!S tig)" ih this <iliunl).

FIGURE 1

POsmOH Of OAOOS
f1GU11f"3

sew

USE
Pra: Of
PlYWOOD TO tNITlAUY
AlIGN 8loclcS

All of the frame cIan'ps listed .bove .re

sold by:
GA1IR>''TT WADE COMPANY.

INC" 161

AveDue of t.be Americas. New York, NY

10013-1205;800.2212942.
WOOOCRAt'T.41 Atlantic Ave . Box
4009, Wobw,., MA 01888; 800-2251153.
The Merle Corner Clamp is sold by:
'IWS. ~TD, P. O. 53, Rydal, PA 19046:

8005339298.

WOODSMITM

cUtsaAr TO
SAME sttE ASflIAME

23

Sources
0/,.

STEP STOOL

Wood.milll. is offering all of the hardware

needed to build th-e step stool.
Step Stool Hardware, Order No.
760-110, $6.95, This Irncksgeincludes:
(l pair) Solid Brass Hinges, 1'I,"
long, 2' open width, with screws.
(1) Brass Chain, 12" long, with Lwo
No. 3 x !!(" roundhead brass SCl-eWS.
(1) Brass-Plated Elbow Cateh and
Strike Plate, screws, nail included.
DISPLAY EASEL

Woodsmilh is also offering the hardware

needed to build the displ;ly easel,
pisplay
Easel Hardware,
Order
No. 760-210, 88.95. Thls package includes:
(12) Birch Gallery Spindles, 2%"
ove n..n length.
(2) Birch TIe Rack Pegs, 2>',,' long,
fit 0/,," hole.
(1) r Brass Turn Button with No. 3
x v.," Ph Brass Woodscrew.
ROIITtR BITS FOR MOLDINGS

All of the picture fi-ame moldings shown

On pages 13-16 are made with only eight
router bits. We are offering these t>its

individually or as a set with either y.."

shanks or v,,' shanks. (We recommend

v.," shank bits jf your router collet will
accept them.)
All of the bits a", heavy-duty, earbidetipped steel. We use these same bits in the
Wood$!ifh shop.
0;." &traight Bit, '10.. cutting length,
single Oute (VI' shank only).

y," Shank, No, 271-003, $9.95.

Y-l' Straight Bit, two flutes.
\II' Shank, 1" cutting length, No.
271-625, $10.95.

v,"

Shank, :y,;" cutting' length. No.

2'7,1-005,$12.95.

';." Straight Bi4 two flutes.

y,." Shank, I" cutting length,

No.

271-613,~12.95.

v.,"

Shank, l' cutting

271676, $12.95.
'/$It Round-Over

length,

No.

Bit (sometimes

called a comer-rounding bit).

v." Shank, No. 2'71-811, $23.95.
'It Shank, No. 271-821, $26.95.

';'" Round-Over Bit.

'.4" Shank, No. 2'71-814, $23.95.
'f.Shank, No. 2'71-823, $24.95:

0/. '.4"Round-Over
Shank,
271817, $24.95.
Bit.

No.
Shank, No. 2'71-826, $25.95.
y," Core Bo" Bit (sometimes called a
roundnose bit).
'.4' Shank, No. 271-721, $21.95.
Yo' Shank, No. ZUW, $25.95.

'10'

24

Core Box Bit.

'.4" Shank, No. 2'71-724, $22.9,.
'h' Shank, No. 2'71733, $29.95.
Set of Eight Bita (listed above).
'!.o' Shank, No. '/60-300. Total price
if -the bits are purchased separately:
$.tI;I.60. Price for the se~ of all eighb
bits: $134.95
v,' Shank, Order No. 760-400. (Note:

JAi" Stl tlight

o

Bit. \vill have '/4"

shank.) Total price if the bits are

purchased separately: $169.60. Price

for the set of all eighL bits: ~149.95.
CROSSCUT BLADE

In the article on making picture n-ames,

we mentioned the importance of having a
good crosscut blade fol' c-uttingmiters. The
one we use is a thin kerf Freud LU88M.
You can find this blade at many woodworking stores and in mail order catalogs,

or you can order it through Wood8milh:

Freud LU88M Saw Blade, thin kerf
(.!J90 inch), 10:' dia,, 60 teeth, '1'(' bore,
Order No. 226-115, 889.90.
fRAME CLAMPING JIG

On page 23, we-showed plans lfor a shopmade jigIOI' clamping picture frames. Most
of this is standard hardware; but if you
caD't find it locally we are offering all or
the hardware as a kit. Another kit .is
available thnt includes the hardware and
pre-drilled maple blocks.
Frame
Clamping
Jig Hardware.,
Order No. 760-610, .$9.95. Includes:
(2) Threaded Rods, W' x 36'.
(4) ;1,' Wing Nuts.
'At" Dowel Red, 36" long.
M," LD. Plastic Tubing, 8" long.
Frame Clamping
Jig, Wood and
Hardware, Order No. 760-620, $24.95.
This package includes;
All of the hardware listed in No.

760-610 (above).
Four Hardwood Blo.cks measuring
2Y.i" x 8M," x 4'. Blocks are predrilled fpr threaded, rods and dowels.
MITER SPRING CLAMPS

On palle 22, we mentioned that miter

spling clamps ru-e a good way to clamp
miter joints. W.e're of)'emig a set with
three sizes of miter spl'ng clamps (lings).
These thi .... sizes are all you need to clamp
the moldings shown in this issue,
We're also offeling the special pliers
needed to install them or plans and hardware to ,build .a set of pliers out of wood.
Miter Spring Clamp Set, Order No.
760-710, $19.95. This includes:
(4) Small Rings for moldings Yo' to
1" wide.

(4) Medium Rings for moldings 1" to

1M," wide.
(4) Large Rings for moldings IM,"'
to 2V,,'" wide
Metal Spring Clamp Plier Tool,
Order No. 611-404, $39.95.
Shop-Made WoodeD Spring Clamp
Plier Tool, (Includes plans and hardware,
you provide the wood.) Order No. 760720, $4.95.
PICTURE HANGING SUPPLIES

Once you finish building a 6-ame, the best

way to hrulg it on the wall is with hinged
hangel'S and picture frame wire, see ihe
box on page 21. W<!re offering three kits
th.~ include brass-plated .hangers, picture
frame wii:e, hooks, and rubber bumpers to
keel) the picture from shifting on the wall.
Lightweilht Picture Frame Hanging Kit, (for SxlO n-ames and smaller)
Order No. 760-810, $5.95.
Includes
enough material for six frames:
(12) Hinged Hangers, 1'4" long,
with Vf;Nlong SCl"'e\VS.
(10 ft.) Braided Picture F'riune Wire,
(12) nubbe, Bumpers, self-adhesive.
(6) Lightweight Wall Books.
a~vyPicture Fnune Hanging Kit,
Order No. 760-820, $9.95. Includes
enough material for six frames;
(12) Heavy Hinged Hangers, 1%'
long with, ~"'-Jong screws.
(15 fl..) Braided Picture Fl-ame \Vire.
(12) Rubber Bumpers, self-adbesiv e.
(6) \VaII Hooks.

Extra Heavy Frame Hanging Kit,

Order No. 760880, $12.95. Includes
enough material for -six ftllmes:
(12) Exb:a Heavy Hinged Hangers,
Jo/,(' long, with %"-Iong screws.
(25 11:.) Braided Pitt",-e Frame IVil-e.
(12) Rubber Bumpers, self-adhesive,
(6) E~trs Heavy Wall Hooks.

I--------------j
ORDERING INFORMATION

r---------------i
To order tile project SUpplies, mail in the
ol'll"r Co,'m on the protective cover of this
issue, oi' call the toUill.... number listed
below. If ordering by mail, send your
order and payment to:
Woodsmith Proje<:t Supplies
P.O. Box 10350
Des Moines, 1A 50006
Phone Orders: 8004447002. Customer sel-vi!)Cis.avaiJable from 8:3(] AM to
4:30 PM Cel)~ TIme, weekdays only. Wi;.
aeeeps M<lSterCard and VISA Cl-ecUte;)l'(Is.
Allow 4-6 weeks for deliv"IOY.Add $1.50
shipping charge to order. ((owa resideVts,
add 4% tax.) Prices good thMlgh 6-30-89.
WOOOSMITH

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