NO.

67

NOTES FROM THE SHOP

$3.95

cArmoire
KID'S l-IIGHCHAIR

SHOP,MADE
MORTISING TABLE
ARC' lED MOLDINGS
MORTISE & SPLINE
JOINERY

No. 67

February, 1990

EDITOR'S

COLUMN

Savvdust
Editor

Donald B. Peschke

D"sign lJirCC\1Ir TL-d t<r.die.k

~'tanaAlnR
fAlitor D~,ul(1~",
1_ Ilickto
1\.~~lrtJlt
Ec.litorS DouWa:l 1\1.Lidster
Kc.ntA. Bu(,ktun
TOn)' J. Strohmnn

l'roJectD",ignor Ken Munkcl

i"echl\ica11Ilu!drl'!!onl

Om-id Kn,,},1i11i!
Col')' Chri_...ten~n
Red Su,uk""
Chrl.! Glowacki

Cu~t.omerSct'Vict" Undn 1tlormw.l'tt)fJ'.

UsaThotn~n
PrDj ec1SuPpll;>, t.c.U"Ann G<>-d.rluu1
Centrnller PIJul E. Gray
Coml)ulcrOJ)('nltions Ken !\fin('r

J\dlllitllslmUvtAs~t:-.. Ch"'l'),'1 Seeu

Sandy Baum
Sourct'bc.Hlk

Jean Ulrey

Shop ~IJtollAi.t
Steve Curti~

Building..j\1aiDlcn:tnct'

i\.n::lli(' KnlUS(!

WOODSM1Tl-J STORES
Store MannSte",~
SLl.<luis, MO Jon Ildlrle
[krkell'Y. CA 1\1ichnrl DeHI'vl~n

PesMoml"", IA Kent Wol""

WOUDSMml (ISS:>IOIl>I-jlIl) is published bimonthly (FcbnHll'Y, April. Juno.
Augl,ll'!, October, J)(:c('mlwr\ by Wood""l,tb
I'IlblMllngc.." 22011Gmul Ave., I)",".in,,,,IA503J2.
\Vc>Od$milll te a rtgis\cr(t-d erneft.-Inark of
WoodSlOithl'ubli"bingCo.
,( Coll)'light I \)9() by Woodsmllh I'IlblL'ihinR
COlnpan) . .1\11tll.thl~resen'l."fl.
Suh.oriptions: On. year (0 il;$"''') $15.95,
rwo Y<'l!'> (12 b.u",,' $Z7.95. (;:,,,.<luitnd For

"ill1': adrJ$'.lOOl)l.'Tycar,U.s. l~nrJ'('nJy.Singi.

cop)' prj..". 8:),9';,

Second CIus...I'(.. ~

Pnidm Pes Moin, ... I"

offic<..,..
PO~HSI(!r:Send chullRe 01 addr('s!'
ttl

and

~t"dditiollal

Wood6mith.Box491,MLMonis.n.610Sf.
SubSCriptionQu_o ....? C.I 800-435-0715
In. ""'idents: 1IIJCl..892-0753)7:30 AM to 8:30
PM. CST. WL"kddY'
Sampl. CoP)': W,willsend n fn:e sampl,:~opy
Qf 'V(JodJSl~I't}1 to onYQn\-".Just <:<nd us hirv'hrr

s soon

;15

tJlis issue arrived. YOlI prob-

ably noticed
some changes.
Wood.~liiJlnowcomeswrappcd in a bio-degradable poly-bag, TIICold protective cover
is gone_There's a ~Vo0d8mith Store calalog
included along with the issue. And the big
gestchuDJ(e 01all-s-we'veadded eiRhl more
pages to chis issue.
I want 10 talk a liule about all of these
changes. Twelve years ago, the very fin;!
issueof 1VOO(/l'Iltilirwasj)ublishcd with only
eight pages. Duriagfhe next thrccyears, we
gradually increased the si?.e to 24 pages. It'S
been at that sir", (~r the past eight years, ..
until now,
Asyou can imagine, rve been looking (orward tv these extra page~ fora long lim", II
meansthat we'refinallyable to present more
iuformation and get involved with bigger,
more complex projects.
In the past, we had tough decisions 10
make about large Pro.itocLS
like the Armoire
that's in Ihis issue, Shollid we design it with
all the nice details like an arched lOp and
raised-panel doors. even inl takcsup haiftht!
issue 10 show how 10 do it? Or, should we
simplify il so il can be put on fewer pages?
Even ifwe did show the full-blown version.
we certainly wouldn't have room 10 add II
companion article, like the one showing how
to make the arched molding for the topotthe
Armoire, Now we can get imo all these design details,
CONTENTS PAGE. Wilh the added pages,
We were able to make some other change s,

and better ups.the payment goes up 10$100

il we devote an entire page to the tip. Naturally, we're looking (or go"d ideas thai will
help other woodworkers. So if you've gOI
some good ideas. send them in.
DETAns. 111C last page of I!'O"Mlliit/! i.
now called !,inal Details, Up 10 now, we've
only had enough room It>show one picture
of each project. BUI there arc usually some
details that deserve a closer look.
Thut's whaJ this new I'af.{~is for. \Ve can
show some oflh. detail. Ihnt make the projects in this issue interesting.
1'01.\-'1<\(;. Okay, all those additions to
1''')(Id~IfIII''are great, bUI why did you decideto mail it ina plastic bag? \oI/halabout the
envirol1ll1cnt?Why"laBlle!
Believe me, it wasn't an easydeclsion.l'm
concerned about the use 01 plastic, and it's
e-ffe<.1. on our environment, But I'm also eoncerned about protecting each issue on its
way through the mail.

Most of the p<'Oplewho get IV"I>C')flllilll,

save the issues. So they wanuoreceive them
in good shape. AJlythin$C Illude of paper can
~ily get damaged, tum, soiled. or bern, So

we have. standard policy to replace any

issue that's damaged in the mail.
But I decided thal the bell way to protect
th .. issue ill t1w Iirst place was 10 put 11in a
plastic bag ... a bio-ilcgrudab/< pol)'.bag.
IV(lori3mitl. is published in IOW'J. which is
famous for 01l~other pr<rduct - com, The
governer of QUr stale is encoural,'ing Iowa
businesses 10usc polybags made with corn
First, we've added a Cements page. This starch. (Thai'S whal thot symbol on the out~hould make it. easier 10 find articles il you side of the pol>bagis all about.) l3y adding
wam to refer back to them in the future.
corn starch to the plastic, il supposedly
TIPS & T1!CHNIQUES. One of the most
makes the bag blo-degradable.
popular pages in l'Voodi<lIIith is Tops and
Thejury is'$lill out on all o(this. But it's the
Techniques, which for yean; was Ih~ JiI1\I besllechnology available today,
article intach i~,c. It's still fltSl. but we've
TIlE WOODSMITlI STORE('ATALOG. Along
shifted illO the spread aftr UlC Contents wilh Ihis issue of TV()(}(L~mith.wC've enpage-and it'sbeencxpanded to two pages, closed 3 copy of the new WOOl/smith Stor.
You gel more tips ... and more UPllOrtunity calalOj(,
to selld in your id~as,
I've nlO 011101 roOm 10 talk very muoh
As we were making the othcrchnnges. we "bollt this calaloj(. excepl to say thaI Ihe
dedd~dto chang" the payment policy for basic idea is 10 Ilrescnt more information
tips sent in by rcaden;. The amounl paid for aboul II'oodsml(h Back I~sues .Uld Project
eaeh tip is dClennioed by the amount of Supplies. inUte past, wecoUld only show the
space given to the tip. TIle bettcr the tip. the covers of back issues. TI,e new catalog formore the ~ount of space it gelS, and the mal allows us to show individual project ..
more mQncy you gel.
NE.'ooT
ISStIE.'nle next issue 011,(,,011
"milll
The minimum amounl paid fora till that's (No. 68) ",ill be mailed during Ihe week 01
publi~hed is $15. Bul 10 encourage bigger April 9, 1990, _-_

name and addrcs!i.

Woodsmith

No.6i

r:

LOOK

INSIDE

ntents
Ti s & Techn'
""""""""'
......~~;..;.,;

es 4
.. ..:..II

__ ~-.;;.,;;.j

Si~ qrea; Ups /1'0 In feUolU wood,

ioorkers: 1. A tenon cutting jig, 2,

Clantping to a drill press. ;I, Edge-giuing

trick, I., Dovetail layottt, 5. Shnple
bUl-nishel', 6. Polishing Plexiqlo.

_.-:mjiliciia41 f61
A'II{jled legs dc'll '/ nec~ssal'iI i! '!teal'
~
a co'tple.l' pl'oJect, S1?J'tpleJOUlel'Y

and knoek-doum fasteners make quick

wOl'ko/Ihi$ Shl,?'dymaple Highchair,

page 6

This I;(lble lruJ,Ych~tnge the wall y01l

Mortising Table [1;J
1MI epproach. 11.100dwOl'king,It holds a
"OILtel' horizontally 80cuttingan accurate

mortise is a suap.

[ Mortise &. Snlinel

-

r:

[141 AlothUbrid_joint
,til:,t doeen'! "equire a
of tedious jittlng,

Sh .p N tes 1'121 Tips

'--

0-L__ O_ .... ~

/1'011t

inside the WOOdS11tith

Shop: 1. Burnishing a lnitel'. 2. Rats-

ingn orched.pamel;8, Secul'ingpanelsin

frames. ,I. Working 'with warp,

I-....
------

11s1
A graceful cUl'lIed top asui '!'aised
.....
=--...- pameidoors create astutely heirloom

Arm.oirej

project.

Arched Molding)

[261 haue
Making an,al'ched molding doe~)1'1
to bed'i/fic:u.lt,Here aredeuiiled
imtructi01!S for euent step oftlte job,

Talking Shop~ IJi'I A

~

router and the right type 0/ bit a're

what "eally ,nake the M01't"ising

Table uiork.

"-------------"-

No, 67

Sources} (31) The place ,to look for

the harduare
and s7'!'pp17es
needed/0)' all the p1'0jects in this issue.

page 26
3

FRO

WOODWORKERS

FELLOW

Tips & Techniques

TENON CUnlNG

JIG

CLAMP TO DRILL PRESS TABLE

After I built the tenon cutting

jig shown In IVOOlI~mitl,No. 63.
1added a fcw features that make
ileven more functional.
First. I made il easier l() re-

To mount the clamp, drill a

hole through uie jig slightly
largerthan thepipe.Position the
hole so the pipe will be set back
about~" (roo, the Irontcdgc of
the slop. This is to
allow the workpiece
to iii flush against
Ole stop. (When replacing th .. Stop, I
justcut a notch in Ule
(ront edge of the
new stop so it fit
around the pipe.)
Now push the
pipe through the
hole and add the
stiding clamp jaw to
the side of the jig
with the Slop.
Then add the
screw head on the
other end o( the
pipe. To keep the
screw head in position, I drilled a hole through the
flange on the damp head and
fastened ilto thejig with a screw,
To usethisclampsetup, make
sure the bottom end of the workpiece is O~Ion the saw's tabte,

Whenever 1 want 10 clamp a

workpiece 10my drill press with
Cctamps, the ribs thai.nre cast
imo the underside of the table
arc always in the way.
11,.. ribs are spaced so they're
always right where I want the
clamp to be. Alld tJu,y're so nar-

WORKPIECE-

TENON JIG
RTS OV(Jl flNCE

place the vertical stop. After

using tile jig (or awhile, the bOI
10mI(nd o( the SLOP!,'C1l; torn up
and needs te. be replaced.
11,e idea I had was LOcut a
shallow (l--lI"-deep)dado down
th~ face o( the jig.
Thlsway all I had 10 WOIIKPlECf
,

do was

CUl

a new

stop to lit in the

dado and It would I'>..
automatically
be I': o'\.
square 10 the table.
Aner rip IIInil I be
CUT
stop, Iscrewed it in
DJU)O
-=:
place. (& sure lite

screwsareabcve the

rOll STOP

Dau.L
OvttSIZ.tD

Fi" .

< J:

- scarw
(lAMPHiAD

J.

lOJIO

.ij

tl:1
,

~
~~~

""

AOD;;'- .LOOWELJ:OR

pruboftlw blade.)
,
HANOLE
My second idea HOU lH*OU()H ,
to.
involved. clamping JIG A,ND STOP
system to hold the
workpiece light againsllhe face and the back edge against the
o( the jig. If the piece isn't held stop. Then you only need oue
tiltht. it can till out (rom the jig hand on the jig 10 push it along
and creates a tapered cut on the the table saw renee,
One last tip, To make it -asler
end uf the len on.
The clamping system I came to tighten the clamp head, I
up wilh isjusta small pipe clamp glued. V,!"-dia.dowel over the
that fits overa \l4"I.D. pipe. (The end o( the clamp hand Ie.
Em mett fI"Ogo(l
nne Iused Is 3 Iorgenson Pony
clamp No. 54.)

block. between the ribs, (You

can also use double-sided carpet
WI'" to mount the blocks.)
To remove the blocks, insert a
small punch through the slot
and tap them out orpIY them off
with a screwdriver.
Tm1lo.wter

Corpn C/,ri.ti, Teso

rowthat ifyou try to clampto the

edge of one, the

clamp slips right off
as it's tighlened.
To solve this problem. I cut and glued
some scrap blocks to
fit between the ribs.
Because

I oc-

casionally use the

slots in the table, I
didn't want to permanently
fix the
blocks to the table.
So I just PUI a few
drop" of glue (rom a
hot glue gun on each
scrap, then stuck the

GLUE CHI
tAP( 'LOCt(

,.

UNOlJtTABLt

WOOD
al.OCK

GLUING WITH INNER TUBES

Whenever I clamp boards to- bicycle inner lubes instead o(
gether with pipe clanws, I put waxed paper. Icut the Inner tube
waxed paper between the pille into 2" lengths, then slice them
and the glue joint. [( you don't, down their lengths. TI1Cy'Ucurl
the iron pipe will react with the right around the pipe damp and
glue and create a black stain on stay in place.
the wand.
l'lace one ofthese lube pieces
The only problem with using over the pipe at each glue joint.
waxed paper is that it's hard to Also. to keep the boards level,
keep it in place while trying to place one at each end of the pipe,
jockey the boards and clamps near each clamp head.
C/Ii'i.,GI()w(lcki
inlo position.
Recently I started using old
De8_j'foi'le.~,Iowa

Ey()UL.A1inllc8<)ta

Woodsmith

No. 67

3D DOVETAIL LAYOUT
.AIler reading about dovetails
in II'QI>d.",itll No. 66, here's
another method for designing
and laying out "through"
doveclil joints,
One 01 the toughest jobs in
I"ying outdovetai Is is visual izins:
how they will look on the actual
workpieces. 1'01' example, to
httpvislllilize how Ole dovetails

will look on the corner of a

drawer.I draw them out on a 3 x
5 index card.
Cut the card the same height
as the drawer, see FIg. 1. TItl!JI
draw a line down the center of
the card. This represents the
comer 01the drawer. Label one
side of the line "FltOl>T' and the
other side "SID~:."

Next draw base lines to the

right and lell of the centerline
equal to the thickness of the
drawer front and side.
Now IllY out the pins and tails.
o also shade In the sections that
will be end grain on Ihe boards.)
Afterlhe pins and tails are laid
out, erase the extra base lines
and fold th.. card in half. To see

what thejoim will look like, hold

thecard against tile corner of'the

drawer. see Fig.2.

Once you like the layout, fold
the card over on ilS~JIand hold Ii
00 the workpleces to make
starter marks for the tails and
pins. see Fig. 3.
RI!t' .tlayk A COlYW

.'lhnl'V!I,liel(/, j\Ii.}l,llfJ..~otn

PINS

TAILS
FOtO
CAJtOIiOARD

(
HI1GIiT OF SlOts

THICKNISS

O.SIOCK

Ediloi. Note. 17,;A ualt,

bl,ri,ishm'u'O"k8 well. For more
i rifo,?"at(QJl 011IWI(' 10 tfJI( rpe
ttlt~1i(Ht' n srrclper, "ffR?' to

\Voodsmilh .Vo.,~9.

DOwn
I

TttAH

v4l.vr

No.6?

SlIM

CLEAR EDGE PLEXIGLAS

When using the burnisher .

grab the dowel with one IHUtd
and the flauencd head or the
vaive wiU, the other. This lets
you really apply pressure to the
scraper blade makin!lthe job of
"rolting" th~ burr much easier.
CI",,'es A. ROl/dil/eUi
~'nyetl..uil!, N0l1h Carol;""

,"DIA. WOOD

DRlUHOLl
SAM[ S1Zf OR
SUGHTlY SMAWR

LAYOUT MAJtKS_
ro WQlUCPUCE

AND STAND UP TO
VIM POUllU JOiNt --

VALVE SCRAPER BURNISHER

Instead of buying. hardened
steel burnisher todraw and (Qrm
the cutting burr on cabinet
serapers.I useanold automobile
enginevalve.(1 get allthevalves
Ineed (rom a local mecbanicjuSl
foraskins:.)
To make this valve burnisher
easier to usc. I added a small
handle that's cut (rom" piece 01
J"-diameter dowel. Alter CULling
lite small length of dowel. drill a
hole in the-end ofit. 'Then push it
over the end olth. valve stern )
serve as a handle.

fRANS',.

AJ.ONG C(N'f(AUNf

dab on a clean while cloth and

rub it alonlllhe edgea few times.
Theajust wipeoffthe tootilpasll'
and look down Into the edge of
Ole Plexig~1s.
If the ~>dgeisn't clear after the
first attempt. JUSL repeat the
the edge, I tightened" fine file process until it is. Then rinse off
flat inthe vise. Then Irubbed the the piece and dry it with ;1 soil
edges of the Plexiglas over the cloth.
Gil Strl,bel
file and removed the burrs.
Nag",..tl}/lJll.
Ma,y/and
After filing olf the burrs. I
sanded the edges with 240, and
SEND IN YOUR nps
then 4()()grit weI/dry sandpaper. (1'0 keep the edges flat.
Ifyou would lIk(' to share a
lay the sandpaper-down flat,and
tip. or haye a better way 01
rub the edge of the Plexiglas
doing something in your
over the sandpaper.)
.hOI). send In your idea to
Sanding leaves UH' edges
Wood.thill,. Tips and Tech"cloudy." To get a clear edge. I niques. 2200 Croud Ave.. nes
Momo.;, Iowa 50312.
use a buffing wheel. But if you
don't have a buffing wheel. use
W~ will pa)' upon publleathe next best tbing lion S15 to SI00 (dependins:
toothpaste. Toothpaste is a very
Oil th e published ICI1Jllhofthe
line abrasive and works the
lipl. Plea.!.' include all exsame way on Plexiglas as it does
planation and a sketch or
photo (we11draw a new one).
On your teeth.
To use toothpaste, put a small

.Aiter

cutting the Plexiglas

windscreen on my Classic Roadster (shown in ~VootlRmitl' No.
5]). J sun had to get the edges
smooth and clear.
To do this. I used three steps,
First. to remove the bum; along

Wood&nllth

FEATURE

PROJECT

Highchair
How do you make a highchair chac' s easy coassemble today,
and easy to disassemble tommorow? Use mortise and sj)line joints to join
the legs, and hold the j)arts together with knock,down ConfitTnaL screws.

\'t' always had a f.......complaints about

metal and plasuc hiSlhchairs. First. many

of them are wobbly and poorly constructed.
Second, once the child h,." outgrown the
need for a tray. the hight'hair is no longer
ut;C[ul.And finally.they're dimeul! to store.
VHRSATtLJ.: To extend II... usable life of
this highchair. I buill it so it could also be
used as a "youth chair." With the tray removed. the child can climb up the two front
stepsandmtotheseat. Thenthe chair can be
pushed up to the table.
KM)CKDOWN FASTh\EAS. To overcome
{he problem of storaae, I assembled it with
knock-down Confonnnt fn~{"ners. This .1
low. the entire chair lu be disassembled.
Then it can be stored (or shipped to a (riend
or relative) and rea ssembled in minutes,
1F.CIL'1QllES.ilesidt"l bt~ngpractical and
functional. there's another reason I liked
building this project. l got {O do some prob1,m..,.,lving",ith acouple o( n.w techniques.
One problem involved cutting a recess in
the tray. Any lime you use two differenl
router bits to make a recess, it's difficult to
I(t'llh,-m to cut ttt exacuy the same depth, I
,0lvc<1theproblem by mnkinglhe perimeter
of the tray recess slighUy deeper than the
center section. This solves the depth problem and give; the tray. "milk moat"forextra
protection again" ,pill"

"'ii'

Another problem
joining the angled
rails to the legs of the hiJlhchnir. The solulI"n was a mortise and spllne joint. It's~implc
to make. especially If YOII lise the Mortising
Table shown on pages 12 and 13.
MATElUALSAND tlNISII. Ibuilt the highchair out of :V.-thick hanl maple. II'.very
light grained (not\lllint,,,,,) and willtake a 101
01abuse (holdsupwdl toteething), Then lor
added protecuon and dumbility I applied
three COOlSof polyuTCthanp.
ItARflWAAE.Fill:L1ly.a word about the troy
hnrdware and the saf~ty straps. I used a tray
catch Ihal allows Ih" tra>'to lift off (or deaningor bang 10one side !SO the kids can ea:.ily
be put in or taken OUI. 1also added a nylon
safely strap 10 hold them in once you 6naJly
manage 10gel them Into thechair, (Bolh thl;
hardware and the ,Mely 'trap are available
through ~Voodg,,,,tJ, l>rojl'C1Supplies. set'
page 31. You supply Ilw kid.)

WOO<.bmith

No. 67

EXPLODED VIEW
,"lADIUS ON

TRAY

TRAY RECESSTEMPLATE

'

....
-@

'-
SEAT

UPPER
STEP

RAIL

'I .,.'
1\
/

...

UPPER RAIL

BACK

TOP COItNRS

SPUNE

'."x

I~x 1~"

-4

LOWER
STEP

...I.
Ir.

I.'

'\,

''''

ORiU. l'<I)"OtA.
HOUATEACH

LOWER
RAIL

CORNEl

LEG

-"'
1

j_.~.--------------------~
;-------"",,-------'
SPLINE DEtAIL

CONIIRMAT

1~DIU$ON

scuw

aO'nOM CORNERS'---

CONNECtOR DEtAIL

EDGING DEtAIL

40mm

I" RADIUS
ON CORNERS

-I..,/",/-_

'f..
-r

._. -t

@
2'.'1"

MAtERIALS
WOOD
A Upper llo~S(2)
8 Seal RoilS (2)
C lpv/er IlOlI.(2)

No,67

'-SPUNl

II.."

I(

1.1," x

I,_.

1"'."

I~."

.,

"

>t'

t-COUNTEItSINK

AND SUPPLIES
:VA x

'i)' SHANK
HOI.!

t,"
ROUND-OVlI

elT

CUnlNG

DIAGRAM

SUPPUES

PARTS

'1'. x 2'n x 7'Ia

f-_J

\"

2111x 61\tr6
:VA X2", x 13a
o legs (4)
'lI..X 2~ x 32'
E Upper Step (1) :VA X3~ x 16
F lowe,Slep(l) ~'X3'I'lX 171~
G seot(l)
'!-.x IOhx 16'
H Bock(!)
:VAX 12b' X IS'
I Troy(1)
",.xI4'x21'I,I'
, The se are
dmen5<O<lS

,aug"

....

.~

IUUNOSl_

_SCREW

LIO

l' 'a"

,_

>:~.
PILOT HOLE

COHFIRMAT

II Board Feet ",,',Ihick hard

mople

~."thlC:kMosonlte IQrsplines
(lo)Conflrmorsclem
(2)
H'A'fhwoodscrem

'6.

~ Plnl at ootln POlYurethane

For mora Inlormollon on Ihe
swlve, trcv hardwore ond Ihe
sorerv strop. see Sources on

page 31

Wooosm;rh

E
I A I II I

o~

&

I.

I
:1.. I
8

Ii

wm

tiz, ZZ~
I " !~;J'~
izZiZZ

b:Irr= .. s.

lZl
7

LEG RAILS
IVhile the angled
legs on this highchair make it very
sta ble, angles can
be confusing
to
werkwith. To lessen
the confusion,
I
worked with only
one angled part of
the highchair at a lime. I found it easiest to
start with the leg rails first.
Cl1I1lNG TIIERAlJ.S. To make the six rails,
startbyculling:Y4"-thickstockforth~upper

i'"l

MmR

NOn::
MAKf

F1RST

-lACHfND

1,.

.11_j_

":::\

NOn::
ALl$TOCK

~.-THICK

~'~'

'I

.5CRlW

AUXlUARY
'[NCE TO
MITI~GAUGf

srr MJ1tJl
GAUOt
TO r

0' MOIlTLSE

-L~~
'
I.'

__

-r -1_,-

-~

STOP

MARK l()Cj\TION

__

CUlWlntOUT
SlOP &lOCK

AT7'

1--7

justable mangle from an art supply store to

set the miter gauge 00 the table saw.
MORTISE LOCATION.TIle ralls arejoined to
the legs with a mortise and spline joint. So
the next step is to lay outlhe position ofthe
mortises on the en~s of the rails. (For a
complete article on mortise and spline join'
cry, see page 14.)
The mortises are centered on the thickness of each rail. But for now just mark a
pencil line l'.!' in from Ole top and bottom
edges on both ends of eacb rail, see Fig. 3.
The actual mortises will be cut later.

,...-

=="~.

LEG RAILS

(A), seat (B), and tower mils (C) to a

finished width of2\.'l'. see fig. I.
Once tile stock has been cut to width, tile
next step is to cui each pair of rails 10their
finisbed lengtl~Hcre's where you're faced
with the first angles toeut.
First. cut a 7' anglo off one end of all the
rails. Then to keep each pairclrallsthesame
h",l!I.h, I screwed an auxDiary fence on my
miter gauge and used astepblock 10trim the
other ends 10length, see Fig. 2.
Shop Note: It's important that the angles
be exactly T, SO I bought a draftsman's ad-

"

UNlS90'

rolMlSOFltMS

a.
I

L
1,2"

--.--

--

LEGS

t: 't1
~

.'.

.::.>:;

::;...-

After r finished cutLillg the rails and

marking the mortise
locations, I started
working on the highchair's lep (D).
CUT Tn E t.EGS.

Since all four legs

(1 are the same
size, I slJIrted by cutting :Y~"thickstock imo
four manageble blanks. Each blank is ripped
to a finished width of2~" and cut.to a rough
length of33".
Then.the legs (0) arecuuo their finished
length Of31"bymitering the top and bottom
end of each leg at 7', see F'1g. 4.
DADOES. Once .11 four legs are cut to
length. the back legs are complete and can
be temporarily set aside. But the front legs
still need 'lt4"widedadoescul on their ilUlidc
faces to accept the two trontsteps, Since the
legsangle frcnuo backcncl side-to-side.you
have to cut the dadoes at a compound angle
to keel>the steps parallel 10the floor.
SETTI1E BlADE. To cut the dadoes for the
steps. start by tilting the dado blade to 7' and
setting the miter gauge at 'r.Theo, using a
rest piece, adjuslthe depth of cut until the
s}wUo"'I'$1part of the dado b '4" deep, see

'"

Fig.Sa.

Here's where
things can get a lit~e confusing. 111e front
l..;\Y OUT Tltt:: OADOES.

legs have to be a ",i>'l'om set, 'This means

they have 10be clll on theillsidefaceor each
leg so they're parallelto the bottom oHl1elcg
alul the shallow part of the dado is nearest
the bottom of the leg. refer 10 Fig. 6,
DADOnt LEGS.To do this, I marked the
POSitionof both dadoes 011 each leg. Then I

attached an auxiliary fence to the miter

gauge so it would support the upper end or
the leg while cutting Ute dadoes. see Fig. 5.
Cut two dadoes paraUelto each other ill
oneofthc(rontlegs (D).Then tum therniter
gauge to 7' in the O'pposi/.,dircclion.and CUt
matching dadoes in the other leg.

Mno 10TH ENDS ""

OF-ifG AT 7' .,........,

I

I.,"
-. ".",..~
,

!..

"

, Gc::J

LEG
(4 PItaS,

'\

':

.tI -f;::~-'~
TI,

"

lli,

cer OADOtS iN
ONt LlO, l'HfN CUT
DADOES IN O~lR
UCJ AT 7 iN

OPPOsm DIRECTION

~n::
cur~'&"

UGSONlY
IN"ONT
(5(1"0. 61

""'\
lOTTOM
<ND

OF 110

WocxJsmirh

II
~

llO$ AS
MIIlRORlO SiT

d;!~

I>-'DOlS

7".!......J

Non::
CUfFRONT

CUT OAOOts

ON lNSIDE-

0' fRONT lIGS ONLY

No. 67

LEG FRAME ASSEMBLY

TIle next step is to detcrmincthe locations of position the lower rail (C). I placed a 2W'
the mortises on the edges of the legs. The wide spacer along the straightedge. and
problem is If) make sure these mortises will pushed the lower rail against this spacer.
align with the rnortises on the ralls (A. B. C).
Atlhc top end. position the upper rail (A)
OR" ASSEMRI.Y. To do this, I dry asbetween the legs so it's flush with the ends of
sembled the legs and runs 10 form two leg the legs, Now clamp these two rails in place.
frames. Ttl keep the bottom ends of'the legs
The seat rail (B) is positioned by sliding it
flush. push them against a stralghtedge
between the legs untll it's snug. see "Ill. 7.
damped 10 the bench. sec Fig. 7. Then. 10
MORnSE LOCATIONS. With all three mil"

between the legs. transfer the locations of

the mortises (rom theendsofthe mils to the
[ace of the le.<,,,,.see Fig. 7a,
ASSE~tBLE ntA.MES. Now CUI 3t4"-deep
mortises in the edge 01 the lew>and in the
ends of the rails. see Fig. 8.0 used the Mortising Table ShOW'lOIl pages 12 and 13.)
Thencutsplincs to fillllC mortises (seepage
15) :UIIIglue the legs and rails together,

FLUSH TOP

WITH top Of l(G$

C(N11a All.
MOlt'T1.SES ON
THK:KN[SSQf

STOCK AND

BlTWt(N

MARKS

CONNECTORS
After tlw leg frames

for the back. This hole is located near 0,, top

Ihf'l' fasteners to work, (jv~ slig'ttly oversized end ofU,e bark legs only. see Fig 11
rounded the comers shank holes have to be drilled into each leg
HOLESFORSTEPS.There are two shank
of the leg. to a 1" frame. see Fig. 9.
holes to drill in the front legs to attach the
radius, refer to ExTo locate the two holes in the seat rail (B), steps. To locate these holes, extend a line
ploded View. page 7. start by laying out a line centered on the Irotn the topcdgeofeachdado around tothe
The leg frames are width of the rail. see Pig. Ill. Along this cen- outside face ofthe leg (0), see Fig. 12.Then
joined 10 the other terline. mark point, al each end I" in from measure down:va" from thls line and drill a
parts of the high- where the centerline meets Ihe joint be- shank hole centered on the .. idth of'the leg.
chair with Confirmat screws. These arc tween the seal rail and the leg. Then drill see Fig. 12.
deep-threaded screws with all untapered
~"dia. holes arthese points, see till'. 10.
COtINT'ERSINK. Afle,all five shank holes
root that allows the join' to be easily put toNler the holes In Il,e seat rail have been life drilled in boll' leg frames, countersink
gether and taken apart.
drilled. locate and drill a shank hole to attach each hole Vul' deep. see Fig. IS.
WPI""P

assembled. I

......, .... 'us,

I---

,,
NOn:

...__

,.

/ ~'I
.

oaru. 9,.;t,"

~.

SHAHlCHOU
to AnACH

t-SHANK
JiOlS
FOJ: StAT.
HOU-~\"
fROM

12

,
-

fOP 01'

._ 5HAHKHOW
AN.D lOWlR mps .
5("10.12

b=

$fAT IIAII.

.~,.

SHANK
HOU

0""0

roR UPPtR

;-

OAl>O
1-RADIUS

NI1.67

\_,

FOR
ST{P

11

NOtE LOCATION
FO.. aACK

(ONNlCfOR

_1IAlL

CENTta

HOlt ON
WfD1HOfUOS

\XIoodsmi ih

-~~
.......-\

,,",
,

\, ,~
\ .,-

1'/..

IHAHI(

HOII

,- ~-

SEAT

"
SR FJG. 10

.,

ORAW UN: ctNTtRtD

ON WJOT~OF ltAlL

uo

VIM

sfr ,tG. ,t

COUNlIRSINK
SHAHK MOllS
rOR CONRItMAT
SCII(WS

10

SHANK
HOW
fOR. IACIC,

AU .42"

SEE Dn-A1LIN
txPlODED

1I0UlS FOR SEATAND RACK. In order

uo

13

COUNTtR$INK

~),"

&IT

SHANK
HOLl

COU""RS'NK

I'---.~

AU. SHANK

HOlS

ltI ... DflP

-Of

outSIDE JAC'E
LEO
fRAME

STEPS, SEAT, AND BACK

After building th e
leg frames. the next
.t~l) is to make the
upPtr and lower

14

.,I.~ -

TO'

.~

17

7' IlVlL ON 10TH

INDS Of! StAT

,tell' {E, F}, seat

(G), and back (H).
~'TEPS.First. rip

the -ieps to a width

of 31'.:", sec Fig. 14b.
'111<'ncui the upper step (E) to a length of
16" nnd the lower step (1') to a length of
171/11".I chamfered off the sharp comers at
both ends Qf the SIC"", >;('(' ~ig.I>lb.
SEAr.Next. Iglued upa hlank for the seat
(C) In order to cut Uti, blank to <ize. first
drydamp the step> (E,~) in place between
tho leg frames. (Since th~ top-rep isshorter
thnn the boUom 011<'. the frames will be
angled aL1'.) Now trim one end of the seat
blank at T.see Fig. 1.ln
Before trimming tlw other end, I ripped
twocleats 1J!i"wideand temperarilyclarnped
them Ilushwith the bouom of the seat mils .
..... Figs. 15and 16.This pesttions the seat
'WI h's cemered on Ih~....at nib (B).
Now graduallytrim offthcothcrend ofthe
>;('01at T until the seat flrs between the lell
Immes when restinll Oil top of the cleats.
rtl.ar noLES. IVhell lite seat 6ts between
the I(g frames. center It front to back and
damp it in position Tht'n drill 7r.n" pilol
hQI., lor the Confinnal..,n'Yi'S into the end,
of !he seal using the hoi," in !he searralls as
aguide._Fig.16.
\Vhile the drill" set up. dn'll pilot hole>;
into the ends ofll.e stl'J)Sas well.
~lnally, I screwed the ConfirmaL screws
through the leg Iramesand into thesieps (E,
I') and the seal (G)
TIlE1lACK.To mak.. the bock (H). sUtrtby
Kluing up a l',thick blank. see fig. 17
Then bevel the bouomedgcat?' .Totrlm tho
,ides 10 61 between the k-g frames, set the
mil,'I'gaugeat T.CUIoU("'rul first. and then

e.

10' ,.

L....._L--....,. -.

,,'

SlAT

to)

SEAT

I----_,_..t.

<D

LOWER

NOTE:

STEP

~olsT

IUUHOSI
ONAUIOOU

16

0It1lL '');,.

SlOPCOUAa
."....

MorHOLI
....
_ 1'..-

i \
'. \,

~.

~~
~

~;~

.-

c....... -...
nMPOUlY

','

CUAr nuSH
wnHlOTTOM

i
sneak up on the other end until it fits,
Now layoul the arcs (or thr hllnd hole and
al"O at the top and bOUC)IIl ends ()f the back.
sec Fig. 17. (A pattern for Inyingoul the arcs
is available. see pagt' 31.)
The back can bemounted between !hcit'll
frames by drilling pilot holl'S for the Confir
mal screws. see rig. IS. Then fasten the bot-

Of KAT tAIl

torn l'<lge of the back 10 till' seal with two

WOodscrews. see I'ig. 18n.
1(0111'TIlE lIDGES.\Vhile the highchair is
assembled, mark where Ille top edge of the
kg frame meets the back. "'l' Fig. 18.Then
I routed a bullnoseprofil"on all theexposcd
,'dg., of the back. Icg fram.,," -eai, and

steps. see Edging Detail on pagc 7.

18

IS'
1-,01", HOt(

SlOt Wl'

_T

.!K
,

3'

'i.

CUT'IOm

10

uo

,
J

I
( .1tQHT

...

~J

TIlVIlOH
IIOTTOM Of &ACIt

...,

MAT

WOII,bmlth

CONIllMAf
sctIW

No. 67

TRAY
The 13$1 Lhing II)

build is the lTHy(I).

However, the procedure {or making the
tray is tile opposite
of what you mighl

19

ROVfER

a.

SUPPORT
PIE(!

TRIM
11,,'"
Of'--SUPPORT PIKE

expect - I started
by routing the
recess. then Icut out

lbe tray. This way you don 'I have to center

the recess on an irregular-shaped piece.
TI;'lIPl,ATF..To rout the recess, I made a
template by laying out the shape on a piece
of 1-'1" plywood. (See pattern on page 7.) Cut
out the center of the template with a sabre
saw and sand the edges smooth, Also, keep
the piece from the center. II's used 10 SUI>'
port dIe router. sec Fig. 19.
TKAYBlANK.After the template i"CUI,glue
up. :V.'Ltllickblank for the tray.Then attach
the template 10 the blank with double-sided
carpel tape. see Fig. 19.

f --I

NOTE:
UNGTHOF

BUSHING
NE[DS TO BE

1.($5 THAN
THICKNESS
OF TEMPLATE

.,

20
ROUT IN

To suppoJi the router while routing the

perimeter groove. trim I~" off the outside
edges of the cut-out center section, Then S<.'-

cure iUo the cenrerofthe template'sopenlng

with more carpel tape.
(:lnI>t: HIlSHlNG. To rout the groove.
mount a %" guide bushing along with a 1'1"
core box bit in the router, see Fig. 19a. The
g.,1idchushingrubs "!I.insl lh. "Oil''' of Ihl'
template whlle the router bil (that filSinside
the bushing) does the cutting.
Note: If your bushing extends more than
W' below the base ofthe router. youll have
10 lise thicker male rial for the template,
FOU.()W1NG11IE TEMPlATE.

Now

you're

'no
eORE.OX
ROUTER III

DfRECTION

GUlD<
BUSHING

OF ARROW
I

~-Y

'lPLAft

KtlP IIUSH',..O
nGKr AGAINST
SlOt OF l(MPLATr

ROUTtR
SUPPORT

l ,,,.
CORE
BOX

en

TRAY

a.

BLANK

REMOVE tRAY

21

TtMPlATt
AND

ready 10 make the firstcul. Set the core box

bit so il extends~" below the bottom of the
tem1'/(I/e, see Fig. 20a. Make a plunge CUI.
and then with the guide bushing rubbing
against the trny template, roUl around the
template moving in n clockwise direction.

ROurER
SUPPO'"

see I~g.~O.
ROIJ!'OIJ!'TRECTh'TER.After the perirneter groove ls routed, remove the template
and the center support piece. Then remove
the guide bushing and replace Ihe core box
bil with a straight bit. see Fig. 2lJ1. (lused 3
:V."straight bil.)
Now to rout OUI the waste inside the perImeter of the groove, set the billO make a
V."decp CUI. Rout from side-to-side while
supporting tbe rouleron the center (un-cut)
portion of the recess. see Fig. 21.
tlJ!'TO SHAPE. The last step is to CuI the
trny to its finished shape. I used a compass.
to scribe a border J" from the edge of the
groove, see Fig. 22. Then cut along the
scribed lin" with a saber saw. Complete the
tray by rouling the same bullnose profile as
00 all the other piec.. s. see Fig. 2?...a.
FINISH.All that's leit is 10 apply finish and
mount thc tray 10)the Ictr.iwith special hardware, sec Sources, page 31.

No. 67

BLANK

REMOVE BUS'HING
AND~UNr

a.

STRAHlHT BTl

22

USE COMPASS TO LAY OUT

1ftWIDE: IOR-O(R '<,

a.

COMPASS
POI.NT AT

fOOl Of
RECESS

WArn

CUfTO UNf

THEN ROUT

SUUHOSE
AROUHD

I----,;_--_J

iOOEOFTRAY

SEt EOOING DfTAIL ON PAGE 7

Woodsmirn

II

SHOP
PROJECT
~-----------------------------------~--------------------------;~

~()rtisitlg 1lalble
T

1',,,

SIIOI' vAc.l(yuu'r(' using a shop-vat, cut a

hoi...in one of Ihl' slde ~i('C('S (e) 10 accept
the end orthe hose lfyou' n- nat going 10use
a vacuum.lcawouuhccenterdivider sc you
can clean oUIthe snwdust by hand,
DAOOI;'<;, Alter Ih(' bll..: pieces are cui 10
<i7.c, cut V4"d,ell dadoes in the lOP CA) and
bottom (B) to accept the sides (C). 'Then
dado the ,id.",10 n<'C<'pt thecCIltcrdivider (D),
111~:TOP.To "ompl"lc the lop (A) fin;t cut
a mil,'r gaug,' ,1011 u fit >'our miter gauge. (I
used the min-r g3UIlf' (mm my table saw.)
Then, rabbtt the back rdllf' 10 act as a sa wdU'1 relid,,...., 1'-111.1
a,
TOI'01'1;."";' Hnally.l'UI' I'-wide notch
on the back edge of the 101'CA) 10provide an
opening (or sawdust and chips 10 fall
Ihroullh, -ee ~ig.Ib.
IlAl'K 1'11"',,-,_Now all thaI', lefl (0 make is
the bock panel (E), 'The back panel proBASE FIlAMI
vides II v,rtlrnl surfnce 10 auach the router,
To fllllk,' th, bast frnme.start by cutting the and a f~nr",'()rtlll'wol'kpicc"I()ride ajlain.L
lOp (A) lind bottom (8) 111.1.!"wide and
1'0 make till' bllck panel, fin;! CUIa piece
I~'I'I" 101111out (.,=\11"plywood, see rlg,.L
IOYl" wide and 1!;''}I.'' long OUIof :}!.j" ply,
wood.
Then cut n slol in tht> middle of the
Aller clillinllllll' lOP and bottom, cut two
,ides (C) H'." wid~ by 11II.!" lang. Then I panel for the router bil To do this. drill twe
added a center divider (D) 10 form an en- I "-diamclcr holes, 2" apart and complete the
closed box -o I could use a shop-vac 10 re- slot by cUllinlCthe waste Oul between Ihe
move rhi!". ",,,'I';g, I.
hoi...., "!t' ~;JI,~,

"i' fIIonisinR I1lbk i. something

b,,'n working on for some time. In
fact. Ole fir.;lpr!ltotypc was built a year ago,
Wrli. when 1)(01Cl'ady 1(,make the morfor till' lIillhch,II' lind the Armoire. I
bh'w Ih, tiusl "rr IIw ,lroLol)'J)(! UIIdROIserious about a morti~i,,)( t..1bk,
11'.' 'r,\u.J-:. "The 111()rti~ingtable is basirally a plywood box with 3 high back panel.
Then a rouu-r b mounted 10 the back so the
router bil 'Iick.throullh 10cui a mortise.
It's a ,impl,' ide" that solves the problems
cften involved wilh cUlting mortises on a
roun-r table or drill pn'~"First. the workpiece lays Rat. mull" than on edIle, Second.
the mortise cran bt,cullofulldeplh in a series
of p.1' -ees without 113\il1,J{ to change the position of tl bit. (For more (In how 10 use the
table, se IXI!!l.,.\.I and 15,)

I".,,,

11>~"\IJ,l1IRFJ\IlU) "SERl'S. WillI the slot

<'OI11I)k''''d,the n~XISI~Pis to install four \/."

U). IIlrenclt-d I"""rb in Ih~ back panel (E),

see Fill, 2a. Two ollhel<l' Inserts are located
on IIw fronllnc,' lUi'1111'
IIl1ard adjuSmJeOl
knobs, and IWoan-on the buck face to allow
the rOUI"r10 be "dju'I,'d up and down.
Note: It',importantthnt Ilw centers of'the
two bole-con Ih,' back are exactly !}'\I~"apart,
IIlhcy'", not.the router piait' won't fiL
\.....
'l '1Bl\.AJII'rlh,'lhrt'adrd inserts an:
in:-.talI,-d.l1lu. up .Ulh,' pit-ce" (or the base
frame Then drill and counrersink eighl

shank hole, inte th,' back panel (E) and

sete" it to the ba,,', see FiR, ,
ROunR BASI PLAn
After COlllpl..-lillllthe base frame. I made a
new base plau-for Illy router This base plate
provides a InriI('surface 10hold the route, 10
the tall vertical hack panel (E),
(.'1rrl~) SII:r, To make Ih(' base plate (F).
I staned with II V4"thick piece ot Masonite
and cut it TV.- wltl~and 11:V"'long.see fig. ,.....
:1. (\Ve're "I,.) ufl"rinl{ n pre-cut Phenolic
\
ptasuc baw plate Ihrough IVrj(~/,.",il"Project SuppU," ,,,. J)Uj(,. :11.)

Alkr th., b",<, plate is Cui 10 size, driJi a

rh"-dia. hall' in th...",'m,'r (or the routerbil

II .... ,
,.
....
:tit'
'O"l''-- -'"

2 I:.-

SUDnAlla_

IS~.

41,
.......

,.

IIl'DIlAll!

.~

,,~)
CENltR
DIVtDER

101'

CUllO
SHOP-VA'
HOH

_AU

NOlt:

NOlt:
OU_,.

--... .,

I ..
'.'

SAWOUST
OW(1

"

@BOTTOM

SAWDUST OPENING
I

.....

.WASJI ,

iI',"

SA_

'OP~

".1'.WOOOKOtW
CROSS SECTION

12

vwooo

IllPOSID 100 ..

b.

,,
',

DI..
, OIA,

NOLI

"

,.....

-'
0 I:"'15..

'\

MOLIi'O.

US( t ........

AlLOADOU

..

,n

..
a,

.. 4',

.
..,
...1
(y BACK PANEL IF.ONTVIEW)

11' .."-lONO

t ..-

"'

7'."

TOP

71 ..

IHIIIADID

IHShT1

tT'

DIlAlLl

".-

-'-

!, IlACK PANEL IIAO(V1IWl

ra.--

r'

..)';

lAO(

......

l ..-I.D.

n.llADlO
INS'_'-

TO

mlNsm

'~.

. ..

,-

>,.
T

~~"

No.6?

to finhrough. (Shop Note: The hole doesn't

have to be ~rf("'tly round, so if you don't
have 0 bolesawora IIll"Jlc drill bityou can cut
It with nsabre saw.)
Next, drill And countersink holes in this
plat~ so you CWI auach h to your router, To
lay OUI lhe hnks, remove the plastic base
from your router and u.... il as a template.
M()l).'11r.;(; IIOLE. To mount the plate 10
the vertical back panel. first drill. V.".<Jia
mounting hoi. 3" clown and I" in from the
right";de ohllt base plate, see Fig. 3.
AWLST'\t~'T ~1.0'T.Nter the mounting
hole j, drill,od.l1JIa $....idc.djuSlllleol slot
in Iht base plate .... '" fig. 3. This .101previdt,a ,,;mple and ac-cu rate ""yloadjuslthe
po,ilion 01 thO'router
I CUi Ihb arched slot on a drill press b)'
u,ing lilt' V." mounting 1101('3'a pivotpolnt,
see Fig. 1 To do thls, firsldriUn V~"-dia.hole
in a "Crap I)I"CC o( plywood and push a V."
dowel in (hb hole, Then sUlllhe mounting
hole In Ihe bn'lt' plato (F) over the dowel.
Next.mourn n :v."di".drill bitand position
ihe plywcJOdso the distance (rom the center
of the dowel to IIII' ,','nlt'r Ofthe bit i~
g:v,".
Then clam I' th,' ~rnp plywood piece 10Iht
drill press table.
:-lowdrill a "'rit, of o\'c-rlapping boles t.o

, ,I

c M.ASOHITQ

,._,.!.t ....

~_

","

the

$101

U'"
headbohsandwash-

ers in'tead of Ilttpl,,-,Iicknob, See Sources

on page 31 tor men- on the plastic knobs.
GUARD
All Iltm romain. lei complete the jig b a
guard.IJoIl'/Ip(It" tI'i~nlllll,1
off. It protects

wid.- b)' 7W ~,nll. (:>;ot'" If you can't find

~,'thick 1'k'il:LN. you can Rlue logether
two pieces o( ~"Iltick Pk.xigla",) Then I
sanded a W rudius on the two outside
com,''''' and lightly ..amll'il the fronl edges,
To mount lite Plexiglas 10 the
uprighl" drillcounlc rsunk bolcsoo the bottom sid., ullh. pial" and screw the plate tel
the block" s"I'Fig. 6.1.

yllur Ilng.'". and is needed to align the

bellining anti ~nd of YOUfcul s, sec Fig. 7.
IWRlta"". 'n, make lh. guard, cur two
upriJ!h'" (G) from V,"lhkk Masonile. and
ItE-F'~H
..:Ntt I.INI:S.\Vhcn tile ~":lrd is
then cur a IIi' wide slot in each uprighl (01' screwed log"llwr, posiuon II over the top of
the: <tdJI"tlllcnl knob s, sec Ag. 6. To attach the bie. Tlu-n U,;j' 311Xallo knife 10 scribe
lite guard plate. glue a V','lhick block (H) IWo line. on the bottom ullh .. plate 10align
10 the bottom end of each uprigh!.
with each ,id,' of 11ll'bit. see Fill. 7. Byusing
Gt ,\RD I'LAn .. to;(XI.Icui a guard plate the Ii",,, asa !.'lJid.-.1knowexactlywhere I'm
(I) from h'lhick l~cxigla, 10a size o(1I1:!' starting and ...1oJ,pil1K a CUl

-... ...-

1"TT

curour

Wllh

finisllt'<i, I mOlllll('d
thr base pial" (F) 10
the jig wilh IWo pla...
uc knobs and wa.1I
ers, '(,'(,."ig. 5.
~ole: You could
~"Ionll hex

..

IASl PlAT!

create (Ill arched

SIOI, >~~Fig. I
(CI~aJl out till' stet
wilh a filc.)

3"

lJ.

It:

~."

\-;)....
: r... ,

"t

,n

HILL HOlIS TO

II

".-,

.".
Nn,67

1 ....

tHf(J(

ClAMP PLYWOOD
lASt TO OlltLL

""STAIU

I." PIVOT
OOWtL

CHAMlllt
fOllCH04l

/
lACK

AnAC:H

...u,PI,At1

TO lACK WITH KNOtS OR 60lTS

.........

alAIANtI

~-

lACK

cur OUT

Lb1

, .,WlDI

saar

"

S"

MOL(

UPRIGHT@

I .,

BLOCK

t." MOUNTING

YOUIlIlOUTtI

. ..-i

'@

It',.,.j

~ r-

r--_

t,oo.
..... -..
otttU.

';"1"',

...~:

....

II,.'"

-';,)

'
""'" '''-..111)''

..c~0_.J '1.COUNTU

SINK!
SHANK

it ....
ClIU

.~
,"".71~
PlIXtOLAS

@.
1l0ClC

HOII

13

JOINERY

TECHNIQUE

-------11-.

Mortise & Spline

T

YI)iC(lIlY,when I have 10
build. trume, the joinl I
would choose fiNI is " mortise
and tenon. Allhtlugh mortise
and WIIOII joinl>l "0/(/'/ be used
lor tlw Irllmt'" 011 both the High
chnir and Ih~ Anno ire shown in

round ilcasierlocul them on the

MortlsinllTable shown on pages
12and 13. Wilh this table I can
cuI cleun, accurate mortises and
add II spline -1111 in a fraction 01
the lime II used [0 lake 1.0cui

this i~su('-I didn't.

lnstead, I used a "hybrid"
join I, " mnrti-e and ,p/i'lf, It
consist' 01 !WI) mortises joinl?d
by a connl'Clinl: pit'(:(' ealled a
spline, ~ v drawIll${ at right.

11IE nrrs. The whole idea 01

Ih. Mortising Table is to cut
mortises with a router that's
mounted horizontally. To do this
)'00 can U'" a reguJarSlr.tiglu bit
(tikI: a lwo-Oule earbide-ti(JllCd
sltaillhl bn), However. I would
highly recommend using a spOa littl e cteaner than plywood and the edges ral end mill biL These bils are Specifically
arc easier 10 round over, see Step 8 on the designed 10make plunge cuts and rout sideOPPOSilCpaRl'.(I use tempered Masonileto-side much easier than sLraighl bits. (For
LIlt:kind Ihnl'~ smooth on both sides.)
more lnfonnation on these bits, see Talking
DOWELS, Wouldn't it be easier 10 drill ShOI), page 30,)
holes and use dowels?
STEP BY 5T.P
I've never been very 10lldor dowels, First.
it's diffi,'ulllO drill holes in opposing pieces One!' you hnvethe MorlisingTablc and the
so Ilwy IIlign 1I,,,.,'itltll/. And second.
bits, It's a simple mauvr to cut U,C mortises.
dowels don't provide as much glue surface
Firs], udjus, Ih,' router so the bit is set to
as" spline. see photo below
the correct Iol;lIhl lor Ihe mortlses you want
IJ'SCI'rrJOINFRS.\\'halaboulusingonc01
10 Cui. see S111l2. One reason this joim can
the "new" biscuit joiners?
be made so quickly, isthatthemortisesalign
Bbcuil join.", work greal on some pro- automatically. Ju_' mark the face side 01
jects. Bul then"s Olle' big drawback. You both pieces and make sure the marked side
can't uS(' them 10join a frame ifth" rails are laces "I' wh('I1culling bolh pieces. Then
narrower than Il,- the biscuits are 100 durmg ."~mbly. keep the marked sides
long 10 fit in Ihe end oithe rail
facing the same direction.
That', where a mortise and spline has a
OEVnI OF'nrr, Ultr setting the height.
definile advantagc over a biscuit joint You adjust the d('J)\h or CUI,see Stl'P 2. !'IOIe:The
can make the mortise and the spline depth ot CUIis affected by bit length and lype
whatever size you need. In addition, a 01router, S<~'Talking Shop. page 30,
spline' glue surface is larger than that 01 a
AIlJI ~""IIt\I{II, TIll' guard I. RI1important
biscuit, sec the photos below.
part ollllis MOl'tisinICTnbl~.II prmects your
M(lImS~;ANI) SI'IJNF_ As you can prob- fingers,lUld III'ovid"$nreferencefor locating
ably tell, I'm excited aboutthisjcint. Youcan the ends or Ilw mortis ..!, Adjustlhe guard so
cut Ihe lllol1l~es on II drill pre:;s, bUI I've It's slighlly abovl'lhe workpif'cI!, see Slep 3,

\0\ \'T\(;r~. There

art> a
couple 01 advantage 10 u~ing
this joinl instead 01 a mortise and tenon c'PC'CialJyon the two 11r0j('ct.~in this issue.
First. since the (c:g$ on the Highchair are
angled, an angled tenon would be required.
This is 1101 only diffic"lIlo cut, bUI irs also
dilficult to flt,
Second, <'1ll1ingn tenon 011 the end 01 a
InfRI' l,i"t'I' like the arched lOP rail 01 the
Armoire i~ not only awkward, it can be
danUl'rous on a lable saw,
QI~~"'ONS.
Okay, once I decided 10 use"
mnrti,., and 'pli,1<' jolnt, there were some
question 10ask. How 13J'Reshould the mortise be? And whal', Ihe t>e,;1 material to use
ror'illinl.".
SlLEO~\IotmsE.Asa rule olthumb. mol"
Ii""" arc usually one third the thickness of
the <tock 10 be joined. For example, when
working ",th ~,"Ihkk "IOC<' I cull,!,-wide
mor1i"-t,
~IU'~"". A, (or the splines. I use either
~'i"lhick plywood or Masonite. Both or
these ll1all'ri.l~ are ideal because they are
'/'ylll/IIIl"s than 1t,".lhick -which means
they fillllll", mortises easily, with room for
a good 111111'
,"rrUfl'.
My "rc't.'rpllc~ I., 10 use Masonue, IIcuts

mortise and tenon joints,

MO.TISI AND SPUNE

0/ nil tilt jOllliA .hOl.m. lhis ~ tile >IIO!it Tili. 1'I'Inlil'~ly ''''III joi>ll to 1NU!1I nUlke, Tlw ('()>IIIcrti1/(1HII/ i1/(' oJti!illjoi II/ /)'I'Ouidea
Inlllil,n r, J/m"'I'rr,nliym'I~'11can be,ljffi blllll'~'qllirt'B (lip""It/ machille. And the a large g/ui,,{/ .ur/orf. Plus lhe trizcC(lltbe
rll/I a 1111Ihr,.,." IItl'Y fittl. olue /fur/ace.
8i~reiflile bi~r"iI8 /illlil~ Ihl!ir Ulie.
"(tried toft, malll/opll/icatiolts.
DOWILS

14

BISCUIT JOINT

Woudsmlch

'0

No. 67

B Y

S T E P
."OR11S.TIle last step before rnutmgis to USl'Q square to mark the limits ohlle
mortise across the j(lintline. see Step 4.
DIRP.cnONOFFE!'J'. Before you start cutling mortises there are n few IhinJr.' 10keep
in mind.The Iirst thing yeu have to bC3WllJ'C
MARK

STEP

the left side, and I naturally fed left to right.

IWOTEc\I~~QUES.
Bask-ally. then! aretwo
techniques for CUllingmortises on the Mol"
tising Table - one Cormaking mortise. on
the ,'lid of a piece. and another for mortising
the edge of a piece.

ENO ~10RT1SES.
To CUl f~/ldmortises, I U~
ofls I hedlrectionoffeed,J3,'CaUSC therouter
is mounted horizoutally, the stock must be a miter gauge to support the workpiece. see
fed from lert to right This is opposilRthe Stei 5. Finn, make full-depth plunge CUISto
direction you reed on a router table.
locale the ends of the mortise, To waste Out
This is a little awkward to lIel used to ;It the center, make several Hllalln ... passes,
first. It helped me to mount the MortiSing moving Uteworkpiece from I~fi to right Into
Tablealthe{~jl end Ofthe bench. see Step I. the bit. see-Step 6.

This way I worked in front of the table or on

EDGE MORTlSl!S.

To cut mortises on the

ClAMP MORtiSING
TOlltKH

'Of'
Spirul end mill bits u'<ll'k beJ)t.Adjust

,",,/1.,1 2
1 To Ita"f sul oJ t/,p1(/ 1110/1'1711
I/w llit
.11(1I1i"i"U

of the mortise, see Step 8. Then cut the

splines to length so they're 1,1," shorter than
the combined depth of the mortises.
To glue up the joint, "butter" the inside or
the mortises with a small artist's brush.
Then, apply a thin film of glue to the spline.
That's all there is 10 lr.a stronll, simple joint
with a minimum of fuss.

uxuu, TJ',4'n.adjflld tllf! router lip ur dotow

tlte Ple;x;iglu~
3
Ii/itl. ~oit' lightly (.aoll' tit.
piece.0111180 1/18sCI'ilH!d llne tile pia.tf

unlil th,' bit i.aLiitermTect/uJiU/It.

are di reel tv (IbOll<)1/16TO" ter bit

aC(I!'lH

(fi'fd)
T<tbl!'
CIIlIlll'i1 (0 tilt' "'[I rf)f'fl~rvJOI< III'/Icli. I,,
.Il"1!t1Hh(III~I'(tr II,IIRe7/((J

tween each pass.see Step 7.

SPUNES.AlIthat's left is to rip the material
(or the splines \.\!" narrower Ulan the length

IJIC~
PANn
_J

TABlf S[CUR[LY

edge of a workpiece. J make a series of shallow cuts (left to right) between the layout
lines. pulling Ihe piece away from the bit be-

Itt)ie cut ilf

tt, sid.

(I) I,md

lice lI.f dl"lltil "Ie lit YIJII

Tiglttl'" dOl/III

fllla,,{
I!'ork

j>l

'IRSD
cur FUll. DfPIlI

OIV A$SEMel.(
ANDMAJlK
MORli51-I.OCAnON
ON 60TH PltcES

itT UOININQ ANt

lHDOf_

O"ide
Ottt'ge.
To complete the wuwtise. make
To 11/(1,1<1/,. limi4roJbotl! 1/10,1;.,..,
6
4
5
I,old II,. plC~e$in Ih.i'.{inal porilion
(Ife"d ofu>O'I'lipiecci.(loI'gled. allg/e
(al dgM a 'Wi" to raeh oilier),
miter ua"9~.) Then make two j"ll-<itJpll. lit.1''OI'kpiecejrortllcjl. 10noitt.uud plll/illg
luorkpii'CC 11,('(1,Iniier

~O:l!cr(tl Sll<ll/(Jlq Cl(ts uIJ~,lf 1)(Olli1lY

and dml('

(I

lilies /f('/'Q.", ',ol/,/,,"t4<.

MAKf sE'VEllAL
SHAlLOW PASSES

II,. wl)'rk"icCf (lWIIYilr.tllif.ell

II/ '<fI9" eut to (lej1". "lids 0/ mOlti~e.

})"8r8.

' .."uss

THAN UNGTH
OF MORnSE
I

(-..

.OUND

ovrR_lS,

<,

,.

1lfiN CUT
TOL(NGTH

l.," USS THAN COMatNIiD

oCPTHOf MOAnsts

ADJUST pt((u
UNttlTHFMtf'lUSH,
THENnOHlIN ClAMP

~plill'm~lRl'illl into #rip. 'I.'

11'''.11 cllft'"on. ",urti"IJ/f.lh~edyvaf
9 Fillolly, a,'pllltne
7 left
1/",,, lrllutll (>f JIlO'/i1<e.
baD t(/, milk, .IIl"IOII cuts, m<)l'ki1I{1 8
illg ill place make
t ,i!lilt. U~. "un'klf
to Ro",,-,/ ol'e/edges. CUls/)ib,e. to/elloth
('fli
1111,.,.0/"1'1'

II

/'Y/')I

011{lllllrd

$((111mId 8(011Oll the IIIy""I/i,,

...

I"". thu

tiStfSQlld(ill

I/S"

If

cvmbilfed depth

I)Jm/)di.se.~.

Woodsmith

ylllt

int boOt

11101'-

8plill~. Be/o''i'clu'tJlp'-'

'It1'C (h~ I'd"e.

alld/aces

0/lheadjoi1lflto pirces 0.1'<' fllI"iI.

15

OUR

=-5...:O::......:..:.M.:.._..=E_T.:..___:I_:P:........=_S_
F ROM

1--

S II 0

Shop Notes
BURNISHING A MITER
.As I was buildillJ! the Armoire,

I ran into" problem III one

corner o( II\(' base - Ih~ miter
joinl had nslighl gap!n h.
Should ! Rlnrl over and cut
ncwpiecesio make ilperlecl?Or
1~lht..re an ea~,'way to fix it?
There'< a nl'al !illl~ trick (or
closing outside miters that's

used on base moldings In

houses. You jusl "bun1lsh" Ilw

are pushed LOgcUter.they usually Slay that way.

corners 1Cl close lilt gnp.
III1HNISHlNC. To bumish Ille
\Vb"n the gap on nn outsid., miter on Ihe base.Iusedascrewmiter is V't6'" or less you Carl roll driver. (A nail SCI wilh a tapetl~1
both sides "flhe joinl Over 10fill point works better on intricate
the gap. \Vhat YOII'n- really molding . ) Hold the screwdoing is crushing II", wood driver at avery slight angle 10the
fibers slightly. One... Ih. flbers workpiece. see Fix. Ia. Then
press down hard to BE FOR E: Afl" a llibll/.
bend the fiber,
lUI"IC/./IIt'Jc
thrre''K a slight gap
slighll)'
as you clllJf~ f"(tlt;M(OMlt'"oJ~amiler.
stroke down the

a.

,I
WIll
I "".,
CIIU'H'0

PR(55 HAlO
ANDMAKl
ONE SMOOtH

I~

ClOSI GAP

joinL

\\'on'l this leave 3

rounded corner?
Yes. but that's okay

in

mOtel DOWN

010St

situations.

corn e"
u$ually
end "I)
slighlly rounded
after they're sanded.
Mitered

EACH 'Act

HOLO
SC.lWOItIV'1t
"fSUOH'

And. a sharp corner

on 3 base is the fi.-.t

AHOUlO

partthargetsdinged
up anyway.

WORKPIICI

AFTf:R: To rlo,,'III~ (laP,bUT"i,I, 0011,/(IC" tosiighlly mal!

tlu1ilH.,-, ''''Jdh.-r,

RUB ARM FOR RAISED PANELS

Bow do you cut the profile on
an arelu d rai....'CI p.1n(']~Usually
it's done with .hapl'r CUtI~'" or
expensive ($75 and UI raised
panel router bit s, These bits
have bearings that (allow the
'hape o( the arch 10mnintaln a
couslstent width nn thc bevel,
IIUWI'Vt'r, on the Armoire I
tried a fl'" ,.pensive bit (IInder
$25) 10CUItilt' (,.Ii",d panel, sec

page 31 It cui, a bl-vd wi!h "

shoulder, bUI it dOl'Sn'l have a

positioned over the top o( th... line on lOP of Ihe rub arm. see
raised panel bit, see Fig. I.
~lg,l. Theil, 10maintain a coobearing.
To make the nib ann. CUI a sist<'11 width on Ole profile. move
Tousethis bit, YOIIh8\'('IOu8<' point on 00(' end o( a piece of I,f," illC wurkpit'Ce so the edge is pera fence or a nib ann. For Ihe plywood or Masonite, Theil pendieular 10 thnl line, sec FIg. 2.

,;traigbl5eCl;ons of Ihe panels. I screw this ann 10a cleat, Now

used the routertable renee, rdcr clamp the cleat to your router
to Fig, 25, pa!:c 25.
table [once so the arm sits Just
RU81-\N~t.But you can't lise a above the bil. see Fig. lao
straijehl fence (or the arched lOP
USISC 111 ARM. To roul thl'
edge, So hen: l added n rub arm beveled edge. draw a reference

O.

,-_

I ....THl(IC.

AIlM,.

..ANnan

16

._1It
IWSID

., series or pnsses, moving the

point o( thr ann away (rom the

bit slislhtly between passes until
you reach the widlh you wanl (or
the bevded edge,

......
N01II __

R,.IUO

Cut the rnlsed panel profile ill

ClAMP CllAtf
TO ROIITI1t
1AllUFtNa

ItAlStD

CUM Of lit

PANEL

W oodsmirh

No. 67

FLOATING PANELS
When nasl'mbling a solid
wood panel Into " frame, the
panel must bt' fre" toexpand and
COlIIl'8cl with ,.asonal changes
In humidity. That's why you
shouldn't IIlue a solid wood
panel inlo the groovcsofa frame.
Okay, bUIuthe panel isfrec LO
move around, what keeps il
centered in the Irame? The

HAILOHlY Al

(tH'TD Of

'ANn

weight of the panel will pull It

down, and lfit's toose.lt can shift
to the right or len.
Ph'! IN PI.ACF.. One solution is
to turn the frame ov~r and pin
the panel with brads, see FIg. I.
Before nailinJl, check that the
panel is centered in the (rame.
After the panel iscentered, drive
a "ingl. brad centered anne top

a.

m '.N'SHINO

MIl.

.
.

PANIl. MU5TI.

panel is "'OUR: within the frame.

see fiR 2a

a,
snLl .......

,.._

.riJ
~

Aill TO
VtPANO AND CONTUCT

WORKING

up layers in the slots until the

,.u.

,
Il:romJ

centered, and when the panel expands, Ow rnam compresses,

I've (ound foam weatherstripIl"'ll tape with an adhesive back
works gre.t. II's available at
hardware stores in 1,1." widths
(perfect (or the 1,1.' slots). Build

- I-.AO AND
HOU

..C

and bottom of each panel. The

brud should 110 through the
tongue and inLOthe rail, see rill.
ta, By using one brad Ihe panel
can expand/contract in both
directions (rom the center.
FOAllI TAPE. A second method
is 10 use foam rubber in the slots.
see Filt. 2. Pullins: foam on all
four sides keeps the panel

IUJlD UP LAYfRS
OF 'OAM

(_ lRAD SHOUI.O GO
- tHROUOH TONOUE
AND INtO 'RAM'

TO HOLD PANEL

ClHTIRID IN FlAMS:

.:

WITH WARP

I'm o(\l>n asked where I find

DOOR smzs, Whenil'" tim"
1
perleclly qraighl. fiat wood (or LOselect the wood (or the door
use in projecls. The answe r is .tile. (especially the inside
simple - I don't Since wood stiles. part. AA), .iaht down the
NOTE:
comes (rom trees and trees coo- length o( each piece and look for
tain water, all wood will have a any bow (warp). There" sure to
IXAOO'... no
'OIIcumY
tendency 10 warp as it takes on or be a liule bit over 51'! feet.
lets out moisture.
Now, position tbe slil,' SO the
The trick is being aware of the high peint O( the bow will (act'
warp and u.lng it &0 It doesn't out (away trom the cabinet), Sl'e
'AC' ,OW ON
seriously ef(L'C1 the appearance Fig. 1. Then, when the door i~ OOOR
STIll OUT
closed, Ihe lOp nnd bottom will
or (unction ef the project.
\
ARMOI Kh IIOORS. Slightly touch the cabinet (acinll fil"ll."O
warped pieces can work 10 your pull the bowed cenu-r olthe door
advantage. Take, for example, in tighl, l located the door catch
the lall doors on the Armoire on the cabinet ncar the center of
CATCH PUUS
000. tH T1GHT
(shown on pag,'18).
the door's heigh],
A'ctNTU
When I buill th~ Armoire I
CIA'U'ING WARI'. Another exselected all the wood for the ample where I usc 3 warped
doors fiN. Co1)throullh thewood board to m)' advantage is whcn
pile and <elect enough rea- damping down (oct' (r.lme~ In a
cabinet. Sometime-,it', difficult
'lOnably nat, 'traigblgraine.d
STIlI SHOUlD I(
wood and .et it aside (or the to position 3clamp <;0 thl're "ill
T10HT AT TOP
doors. (Note: To allow the mois- be pressure in the center of a
AHDIOTTOM
ture in Ihe wood to reach a long facing piece. In Ihi' situabalance with your shop's en- tion face the board so the bow
vironment, 'lore the wood on faces ill. see rig. 2. 'Olen, when
tldge with some space between you clamp the ends down tillht,
the pie<"'s.)
the center will be tilthl as well.

2
~

w,...

No. 67

Wooosmith

'A('INO !'t'C(5

SHOULD 'OW IN

..
C(NT Of

.ACINOWlU
'IT TIGHT

TOC.I.NO

ClAMI"_
DOWNn'>I"

......
I

17

HEIRLOOM

PRO

ECT

Armoire
The graceful arched cop and the raised-panel doors
of this cherry armoire make it a classIc, It's sure to become a family
heirloom to be handed down iroln generation to generation,

his <"h~nyarmoire i, one of the lar!!est "rojl"'"

we've ever fc 3Itlrf:<1 in \\ 'oodsn: ith, But it'~nell thv
size, it's Ihl' details tluu really make lt intercsllnj(,
,\KCUEI)TOI',Tlu- m"sl striking realurt is the arched
crown ",okliull on Ih., lap of the cabinet-a dctailthal
looks very difJkllh 10build, 110you have 10 1"'0(1<.,,,,
the molding? 1>0you I",,," 10 U'" a ,haPt'r whh hllK'
cutter 10,hape the muldin.!?
Actually it'<,.."i,r than itlooks, It's all done b)' building up and ,Ilaping pj''''''S ul :v~-thlck'\lock with Ih,
t

helpof a template.n rouh'r. and two common bits,

Since this is technique thaI can be used on olh"r
projectsaswvll (lik,grandlnlhcrc]ocks). wv decided to

,,(h. own, " ... pages 2610 2''),

RAtSlillI'i\Nl't.~,'l1l1other big ch.llcnge was m:tkinll
the arched-ton dual", On the flrst version of lhi~ nrmolrc.I used \I...-thick clll'nyplywood for the panels in
'he doors, BUIitlook.'r( 100 lint.
"'hat I rcallywanh'd \\a< thtrndilionallookof rai"-~I
panels made from solid stock - a 101more work. bUI
tho>< panel-, -.ute ruake th.: doers look gn-al.
Okay. bul how doy ..u CUIthe hewl on tbt'CI'I'\',"<i lop
,c ..:tion of the top p.nd) The solution, al!llin. wa,
<imple, It involve ~n inexpensive panel-raisinz bil anrl
a simpl .... I,Up on a router lable, (This 1''l:hlli'III(' is
explained in Sholl !'iOIt, on 1);1l!~16,)
DETAll.s,A, with any projcrllhis size.fhere urVIllIs
o( details to work 0111. Anti il would be easy 10he intimidated by alilhi, work, (luI by COllqu.rinll' om- rl.'lallal
a time, Uti. armoin- 11In",d 011110be 3 good eh.lhng('
and a 101of Iun
11000. On,' la- Ihing I'd liketo mention, To build Ihe
armoire shown here, I u-ed it c..'"t)mbin~ti.~nIlf ~,Iid
Cherry and cherry I'ly"ood, There's a 101of il. \Iy lulal
bill forth~ plywood .lOdsolid stock was about :>150,

give it an anicll'

SUPPLIES

----------------,

LUMBER
21-:.Sheet$ .' Ittlc:k cherry plYwood
I Sheet
'hick cheuy plywood
59 5 BoOtd Joel ~.' 1"'Ck IOIId che<Ty

HARDWARE AND FINISH

(see IJOge 31 '0( inlon"1Qtlon obout llOrCIwo'o
(3) PQ.r~' oroo5 oIfsel hi'IgeS

kif )

(7) Bross.n0b5 wit" dOCOtotIV" t><= bock pIol ...

(2) B<ossod)lAlObIeboldOO<

COIcr>es

Shott WPOO<I1 (4 par >1>011)

(2Qvorn)lunllol

18

WO<1<hmllh

No,67

MATERIALS

EXPLODED VIEW
OVERAll DIMENSIONS:
84" H x S l'/t2.'W x 22'1 0

-r

CASE
A SIdes(2)
B OMder(l)
C TOp(l)
o Bollom(l)
E Bock(l)
F 51119.(2)
G BotiomRoII(I)
H A,ch(!dTopRo 1(1)
I DividerCop (I)

'II. ply x 19w~ 73

'II. plyx 19y.67,>.
.,.plyx"b'~19
,.plyx~~-19',.
V.plyxd7-73
4x3- 14rgh.
.,.x4'n~dll,.:,

~.x13'''''gn 4111.1

',x 11I.-69rg"
J Ogee Fn.MOld. (I) .y. x 2% . 49

K Ogee SideMold (2) .y. x~. -2GIt.

l Cove Frt Mold, (I) % x% - SOIt.

,
,@

M CoveSideMold.(2l %lC% 21'1$

\

BASE
N Bullnose Fronl (1)

'1'. X2",. - 51'12

o BuIInoseSdes(2) '111 x 2. 22
P KlCkbOOrdfr./8lc.(2) '1'. x 4V. 50',0:
Q 1<icI<l;loordSiOes(2)

R Bock RIlElIStrip (1)

cv

" I

.,.It
41t. 21'12
'114 X I 'I. ~

CROWN MOLDING

.'\
I

S
T
U
V

Bose(Fro'll) (I)
Bose(SlcIe$)(2)

Trlm(Fronl)(ll
Trim(Sldes)(2)

'1'. x 31(.- 51\<2,gh.

:V4x3Y.-22rgh
4X IIt.-51'~lgh
.
:)I. x 1'/.-22 rgh

SHELVESAND ROD
W
X
Y
Z

Shaives(n
Sheil edging (7)
Clomes Rod (1)
RQdSupport$(2)

'II. ply X 18'12-22l1.!

'1'. ply x 1 22'12
l' dowel x ~\.1!
'\'4.2 -19

DOORS

AA I(\~de$jij9$ (2)
It.x 3 - 68~
BB OUtside St~9$(2)
x 3 64rgh
CC Top (Arch) Rolls (2) :v.x3lA'It

"A

(0)

00
EE
FF
GG

Middle Rolls(2)
BotlomRolIs(2)
Top Ponels.(2)

BoHomPonels(2)

'II. x4\<2 14%

'114x314%
AX 15V.-36rgh
:V.x 15'/.-24e

CUnlNG DIAGRAM

\41 x 714 96 C4.'U.

'-t,!

GO

I",.~I1,.mJ

AlSO aQUIRfDl
2Jtt SH10S{4' x "J Of~" PlYWOOD

1 SHErr(.' x "J Of 14.. PLYWOOD

No. 67

Woodsmith

19

Ibegan building the

armoire by cut ling

the parts for the case

from :.." plywood.
Plywood is stable
and not as likely to
warp as solid stock
so it's a good choice
for the large pieces,
Start by making the two side
pieces (A), see Fig. 1. Although the sides
are iusuwc pieces of:V."plywood,eachside
bas a dado to accept Ule bottom (0) and a
rabbet to accept the lop (C) olthe cabinetand these dadoes and rabbets must be per.
fectly aligned. 111etrick is to rout one dado
anel one rabbet across a wide blank or ply
wood. 111encut the blank in half to get two
identical side pieces.
To make the sides (Al. 6rst cut a large
blank to a finished length of 73" and rough
width of 41", see the Plyw()od Cutting' Diagram in Pig. L
OI\DO POR OOTl'OM.After cuuing the
blank lu a finished length, I routed a dado
across the blank 10 accept the bottom piece
(D). see Fig. 2. To roul the dado. clamp a

straightedge fence across the blank SO a II."

straight bit in the router will be postioned 4"
up (rom the bottom end. see Fig. 1.
AABUJrr "'OR TOP. After routing the dado.
the next step is to rout a 114"-<leeprabbet
along the top end of the blank (on the same
face as the dado) to accept the lop piece (C).
see Fig. 3. I did this by mounting an edge
guide and a W' straight bit in the router. and
then made two passes.
em CASESIDES. Now. to get the two case
sides (AJ. I ripped the plywood blank into
two 19l'il.wide pieces,
Ui\CK PANEl-RABOin'. After the side pieces
are cut.apart. rout a 114" x I'.!" rabbet On the
back edge of each piece to attach the case
back. see Fig. 3. (Note: 13esure 10 cut the
back rabbet so you will end up with a mirrored set of side pieces)
DMDER. Next. I cut a divider (13) from
." plywood, see Fig. J. Since Ule cabinet
backfits behind it, cut the divider14" le.s8 in
width than the side pieces (l9V." "ide).
To determine the length of the divider.
measure the distance between thedado and
the rabbet on the side pieces (68'ry and subtract \1.4" (to allow (or the longue thai will be

PLYWOOD
CUmNG DIAGRAM

Sn

culon the ends of the bottom piece). [n my

cssc.Lcut.the divider (B) 67:jf." long.
TOP AND IJOTTOM.The last pieces Of'll4"
plywood to cut (or the case are the top (C)
and bottom (D). see Fig. I. To determine
the wi(llh of the top piece (C), measure the
side pieces and subtract V'.!".1n my case this
made the top piece 19" wide.
The bottom piece (D) has a 114" tongue on
the (ront edge 10 later accept a hardwood
(adng rail. so I cut it V.I'wider (19\(.1'')than
the top piece. After the top and bottom
pieces are CUI to width. cut both pieces to a
uniform length 0!46W'.
TONGUES. The final step before assembly
is 10 CUlV.".thick tongues on the front edges
of the side pieces lA). divider (8). and botlorn piece (0). see ~ig.4.These tongues are
used to attach hardwood (acing. referto ~lg.
6. AI the same time. I also cut identical
tongues on the end o( the bottom piece (D)
10 fit into ihe dadoes in the side pieces (AJ.
To make the tongues, rout V.1"wide rabbets on the top and bottom edges with a
router bit and edge guide. Increase the
depth of cut until the tongue between the
rabbets fits thedadoesin theside pieces (JI).

I
[','

-j

IOl1OM

5'"

SIDE

~
~
~

,'il
DrvfDER

67-l'.

'.-,,1,,
DADO

5.lWfoa
_va

'IGURt3

,;;.
~

....

'&\

,"y

SIDE

\:

13'
.... DADO

st(

FIGURE2

SAVI_
SHIlVlS

..

TOP

BOTTOM

'
uac

l\

DMOIII

I>lVWOOO

~
~

TONGUE DETAIL

It<

NOTE:

fIOUR 4

1\

20

Woodsonith

TONOU(

MUST,.IT
GROOV/
DADO

No. 67

CASE ASSEMBLY
MeraU the tongues arc fonned, thccasecan
be assembled. see rig. S, Sian by sian ding
the divider (B) on its (TC)Ot edge (with the
tongue (8cin~ down) nnd screwing it between the top (C) and the bottom (0).
N~.~
add the side pieces W. Glue the
tongue on the bottom (D) into the dado in
~,esides (A). see I-Ig. 5a. Then screw the
side pieces into the top (Cl, (These screws
will be covered later by a motding strip.)
IlAC)( P&'<EL. To square up the case, I cut
a plywood back (E) to fit between the rabbets and flush with the top and bottom ends
o( the side pieces, and screwed it in place.

a.

OWrONGut

ON8onOM
INTO DADO
IN SIDE

fACE

TONGUES
DOWN

FACE FRAME

Now that the basic

plywood case is
assembled.
the
front edges can be
trimmed with :Y.',
Ihick hardwood race
frame pieces,
STItES. Start by
~
cuulng- two stiles
(F) ton width of3'116"and L"long.rthon the
side pieces (74"), (Nole:Aiter assembly, the
stiles are trimmed flush with the side or Ute
case and to length to (ollow the arch at the
top, see Fig. 8.1,)
Nex~cui a groove on the inside face of
each stile to fit over the tongue on the side
pieces W. sec Fig, 7. Pcsition the tongue
0/16" (rom the o"'";rlr~dgc o[th~ sule. (This
leaves a 1116"overhang for trimming.)
After cutting the grooves, Irouted a .I",
wide mortise centered on the IItsid,' edge of
each stil. at the top, see Fig, 8, This mortise
will accept a spline t(l Join the stile 10the end
of the arched top rail Oil. (Note: I cut the
mortiseswhh th~ Monising1'ableshown on

ones in thestiles.1ben brush glue into all the face of ~IC cap to 61 over the tongue On the
mortises and fit the top rail between the divider (B), sec Fig. 7.
stiles. Filially, slide splines into the mortises
(rom the open lop end, see Figs. 6 and 8,
Once the glue dries. extend the curve
(rom the lop mil onto the stiles with a pencil,
and then cut il with a sabre saw, see Fig, &,.
l)MPER Ci\P. The 10$tfacing piece ls the
dividercap (I). lt'scut to a width of 1V.I~and
10 length 10 fit tight between the top and bot10m rails. Thea cut a grC)ove on the inside

No,67

divider cap
Is glued in place, you can trim the stiles (f')
flush with the out.ide o[ the side pieces lA)
and the bottom rail (C) flush WiU, the toll of
the bottom piece (0), To do Ibis I used a
router and flush trim bit. (Note: On the (01)
o( the bottom rail, the router bit won't cut
square all the wayinto the inside comers. So
I had to clean these up with a chisel.)

$PRIAD GWl IN Mor:tnSl$.

THEN POSfTION RAILS .rrw((N

STtLlS AND IN.sERT SPUNES

71 e

OVlRHANG

STILES

.
~ 1..-

10'0,'

I,'

..L

,....

.~

--

","-Oo ~""

3'.1'1.- -

(i) DIVIDER CAP

DMOla

LPfOMOtR

LI
~..A"

-.,

.'@1)(

Ilage~ 12to 15,)

Before you can glue the Stiles in place,

there's one more little step. To make room
for the stiles, you have to trim baok 2V." of
the tongue on the from of the bouom piece
(D).seel'ig.6.
sorroa RAIL With the stiles glued in
place, measure the distance between them
10 determine the length of the bottom rail
(G). Then cutlhc bottom rail to this length
and 4!YJ6"wide. at's trimmed 10 4lf.!"Iater.)
Next. cuta groove 10fit over tile tongue on
the bottom piece (0). (Ibis looks Just like
the stile, see rig. 7.) Then glue the bottom
rail in place.
TO)' RAIl..The mosldifficullpicce to make
is the arched top rail (11). It's cui (rom a
13lf.!"wide edge-glued blank, Since the
steps are (airly complex, it's all in a special
article on pages 2610 27,
Ailer!ho arched lop rail was cut to shape.
I routed mortlses on both ends 10match the

'nu~1 FACIl'OGFLUSJI, ACterthe

tv

CtN'frR

GROOY(
1 ..")(1

1t,.";--

.....

r.~
"
-", SPUN~ffi.'
Trt;; Motmsn,
~" DEW

't

DIVIDER

CAP

. "'~

~'"

fOP ItAIL

r~

(0':,.... WIDE.
IOnOM

@)

<,
TOP
ItAll.

GWESnU
fWSHWJTH
aOnOMfND

6~."

..!I

mil

CUT flUst-t
WrJH It.AIL

,,

,,
,,
,

,,

7.....

'-. snu

Of SIDEPIEef

SPUNf-

WocxJsmith

21

BASE
After adding the face (22") than the depth of the plywood case.
frame to the case, r
Before gluing the bullnose pieces tobegan work on me gethcr, I drilled a series of countersunk
base. The base is a screw holes through them. see Cross Seebullnose frame glued lion in Fig. 10. 111CSC screws are used to
on top of a kickboard mount the bullnose frame down to the kickboard frame and up to the bottom of the ply.
frame. see rill.9.
TOP PRAME. To wood cabinet, see Fig. I Ia.
make the bullnose
Nnw glue the miters together to form me
frame, rip afront (N) and two sides (0) to a three-sided frame. (Hold the pieces on a Ilat
width of24". see Fig. 9. Then rough cut the surface until the glue sets.)
fronl53" long and the sides 23" long.
IOCKHOARD:lbe rest of the base consists
Before cutting the pieces to Jioallengtb.
of a kiekboard front, back. and twosides, Rip
rout bullnose edge on the pieces. First. thesepieces to a width of 4~". see Fig. 9.
rout a W' round-over on the top edge. see
Then miter both ends of the kickboard
Step 1 in Fig. 10. Then. to rout the bottom front and back (P) so the length of each
edge, switch In a 'I," round-over. see Slep 2. piece is 1" shorter than the bullnose frame
After me pieces are routed, miter both (:;Ql<'l'').Next. miter both ends ofeach kickends 01the front piece (N) 4" longer (51I<'i~ board side (Q) so Ihe length is 1-1!" shorter
than the width of the plywood case. Then than the bullnose frame sides (21W).
miter the front end of each side piece (0)
KERf ANDSPUNE. To help keep the miters
and cut the back end squareso it's2" longer aligned.cut.a kerf in each miter, see rill, 9a,

Thencut a splineto fit the kerfs.

BASE ASSE~mI.Y. After the joints are CUL,
glue the kickboard frame together. Then
drill pilot holes for Ihe screws-and glue and
screw the bullnose frame 10 the lOp of the
kickboard lrame. sec FIg. 9.
FlUl>RSTRIP. One flnalstepcnthe base is
to CUl filler strip (R) lO fit on top of the
kickbnard back. see Fig. 9b. Before gluing
thefiller strip in place. cut arabberalong the
lOP edge of the strip to accept the cabinet
back.refer to Hg. 12.
8i\SE TO CASE.After the base is complete,
itcan be attached lOthe case. see Fig, I L To
do this. I laid the case down on us back.
Nowcenterthe base on thecaseand align
both sections flush across the back, see Fig.

12.When they're in positicn. drill pilolholes

through the shank holes in the bullnose
frameand into the bottom of the case, see

Fig. Ua. 111"[\ screw the sections together

and the back 10 the Iiller strip. see Fig. 12.

10

STRIP

fENce

FILLER
BULl.NOSE
StDE

(S(E ffG. 9b,

CUTUNOTH TO FIT)

,.- .orrOM'AC[

KICKBOARD
BACK

CHtCK

COlIN.. S
rOR

SQUAU

FRONT
BULLNOSE

NOTE:

tI2" ROUNOOvtR sn

ROUt 8UI..LHOSI
IDGBFORE

1.

r.

Hlm'UNO

ftN(_f

OIllU~
Pft,Ol HOllS

'N lOP

0'

KJCKIOA,lD FRAMI

BULl.NOSE CROSS SECTION

a.

KtCKBOARD
SIDE

....

t<;tCKBOARD
FRONT

Non:

In"

BULlNOSE fRAMJ
OYl"RlAPS ki(KIOARD
ON FRONT ANO SIDES ONLY

11

OIA.-'
HOW

12
Plywooo

tACK

la.,. ,

'i" fit
WOOD

tENTtR BASt
UNDfRCASE
ANIl ""ON
IJACI(S nUSH

22

scalWS

Woodsmith

AWRSTlHP-

,6

Jf~"''' fh
WOODSCItEWS

KI(KISOARD
lACK

No.67

MOLDING
;:<~l' ~

While the case was

still laying on its
back. I added molding around the base.

13.Then screw the side moldings to the side

of the cablnetfrom the inside, see Fig. l3b.
ClIAIIff'EIt There's one more little detail on
the case. Irouted %" stopped chamfers 011

the front comers of the cabiaet starting and

stoppingaboutS"from the crown moldingat
the top and theogeemolding atthe base.see
Figs. 13and 13c.

OG..~ ~101.0ING.

Firsi, I cut enough

2-'i1l"wide molding
. ,
to fitaround tile front
and sides of the cabi~
net.Then routa Roman ogee on the lOPedge
of each piece, Miter. front piece (J) to at
across tile front of the cabinet and screw it in
place from behind. see Fig. l3d.
Now. miter the front ends of the side
pieces (K). and then CUI all the back ends
Bush with tile back of the case. Screw these
pieces in place as well. see Fig. 13.
COl'!!MOWtl'OG.Next.I added cove molding (L.M) in front o( the ogee molding. To
make these strips. raul a I'z" cove on the
edges of a ll'.!"widestrip OfW,Ulick stock.
Then trim the Wwidc molding off the outside edges. Now miter the molding to fil
around the case and glue lhe strips in place.
CROWN MOl.OING. After gluing the molding around tlle base. I started work on the
crOWD molding at the top. The crown molding is made from two pieces of :v.,"thick

13

SIDleROWN
MOLDING

" .. 11/4Fh WOOl).

HOLlS S'ACtO
, .. APART

SCRrw

OIUE COW
MOLDING
IN PlACE'

d.

stock laminated together,

OGll

fRONT
MOlDING

'1110front arch strips (base piece Sand

trim piece U) are both cui from ~ 12"-wide
blank. (For more on this, see pages 28 and
29.) Aftermiloring the arched front molding
to fil the cabinet. Iscrewed ilto the front of
the lop ra1I (Ii). see Flg. 13a.
The straight side molding strips (T.V)
have the same profiles as the arched front
strips. After the pieces are glued together,
miter the !ront ends and cut U,eback cod off
square with the back of the cabinet. see Fig.

OOIRONT
MOtDING$

2;"."' .. 2S," 49"

.1",,1.,,"
fh
WOODSCIttW

Non:

CUT SlOE MOlDINGS

RUSH wtTH lACK
Of CASt

SHELVES
After all 011,molding> were attached. J made
the~1I plywoodshelvc$ C'V).see Fig. 14.
CUTlO SIZE. To determine the size of the
shelves, measure the inside of the case. To
allow for edging, J CUIthe shelves to width
1-2" less than the depth of my case. Then CUI
the shelves W less than the distance between the divider and the cabinet side.
TONGUES.Mtcrcuttioglhesltelvesiosize.
the next step is 10rout tongues on the from
for the edj,~ng strips. see F~. L,1.(For more
on ~'<IgingplywoOd.see Wood",>!W, No, 62.)
EDGING. Now cui the J"wide shelf oog.
ing (X) from !V1"-thickstock. Next cut <)ffcenter grooves In each Slril) to Iit over the
tongues on the shelves. And then glue the
edging;n place.
SlIt'I'OAT ROLS. To hold the shelves, 1
used brass !lin supports. Orillll," holes (or
pin supports in the cabinet sides (A) and the
divider (8). To position the holes. I CUl a

No. 67

drilling template to 6l between the bottom wid.. and 19" long. Ne.xt.drill I" holes. Qllly
and top of the cabinet as shown in Fig. 13.
deep centered on each piece. Theil rout
curmes ROO,If you want to use the ar- an "escape" area for the rod 10 be removed
moire to hang clothes, you will have to add a above one of the holes, see Fig. lSa.
clothes rod (Y), see fig. 15.1supported the
Now drill holes and mount V," dowel pins
rod wilh two rod supports 00. The SUI)' on the backside ofeach supponto align with
ports in tum arc held in place with two pins the holes in the cabinet. Finally. fit tile supthal iii lnto the ~helfsupporl holes.
ports into lhecabinetand cut a I"o()ia.dowel
CUi the supports (rom ~"-thick stock 2" 10lengtil so il wedges between thesupports.

v.

14

15

I'

t.

SHELF
EDGING--

Woo<hmirh

CLOT~ESROD

.(

1 OOWtt., 2.l' ..-LONO

lit" DOWEL piNS MU$t

AUQN WfTH $UPPOR'~
HOUS IN CAIlN"

23

DOOR FRAMES
The last step in
@
building the armoire 16
TOP (ARCH I RAIL
is to makeand inslall
0
the doors. I started
with Ihe frames.
~~
[ 0 ~- ~~
srnzs, Since the
doors have an
arched top, the in14\""
,
side stiles (M) will
beloo.gcr than Ihe outside stiles (BB), see
All RAIlS AND
mlfS ~ THlCK
Fig.
Begin by cUlting all the stiles 10 a
width of3" and the twooutsidestiles (BB)to
@
@
a rough length of 64", (The top ends will be
OUTSIDE
INSIDE
trimmed down after the arched rail is CII!.)
STILE
STILE
To determine the length of the inside
stiles (AA),measure the height of the door
'-..
openings al their highest point (67W' in my 64case).Then, since thedoorsoverlapihecase
<W
68'1W"
ROUOH
by V4", add l'llO this measurement.
MIDOLf RAIL
MUS. Next, I cut the rails. Firs!. glue-up
IWO :V.'lthick blanks (or the lop rails (CC)
[
and rip them 9" wide, we FiJ.!. l7. rille arch
shapewhl be cutlater.) Then ripthe middle
mils (~O) '1\1!" wide and the bottom mils
(EE) 3" wide, see Fig.lS,
NOTE: Cut 5PlINIS
The lormula lor the length ofthe rails is to
TO FIT MORTISES
measure across the door opening (20111')
TRAN$rot Me,",S(
and subtract the combined width of the two
261."
19
FROM RAILS
stiles (6"),Then add Vi' for the overlap.
TOsnW
MQRTtSIlS. The frames are assembled
@
withmortise and splinejoints, Start bylaying
BOTTOM RAIL
out the locations or the mortises OD all the
rails, see Figll.17and 18.
ijo
J
To transferthe locationsofthe mortises 10
the stiles (see Fig. 19l, I laid all of the pieces
~ "'I
down exacOy as tlley will appear in the assembled door, see Fig. 16.Then. mark and
cut the mortises in both the stiles and rails.
(Nole: The V4"widemortises arc offset 011 20
21
the thickness to align with grooves cut later
(orthe raised panels. see Figs, 17and 18,)
TRANsna
SHAPE OFNow.curspllnes to fit the mertisesand dry
DOOR OPENING
assemble the door frames.
ONTO lOP DOOR
CAIID'
(;Lm1NG TIlEARclI.111e next step is 10 cut 10.\00
RAIL AND snus
Ole lOPdoor rails (CC) 10theirarched shape. mo.PlATII
To lay OUI this shape, I made a template by
tracingthearched dooropenlng ontoa piece
TtMPLA'fE AND TOP IND
of cardboard, see Fig. 20, Then cut the temOf INSIDE STlLl MUST Ie RUSH
plate to shape and transfer il 10the lOP door
rail (CC)and outside stile (BB).see Fig. 21.
Afttr cutting tile lOPedge of the rails and
2 o.
topend ofthe outside stiles to shape, cutthe
bottom edge of the arched rails using the
bandsawanddrumsandcrtechniqucshown
,
DON'T ROllT
on page 28.
<, BEYOND
snu
1',\.'1EI.CROOV1!S.111e laststep on the door
'NO
frames is 10 rout grooves Around the inside
or the stiles and rails lor the raised panels,
see Fig. 22. I CUI the grooves with a ~" slot
cutter on the router table.
.OUT GROOVlS ON tJOTH./
(DOS 01 MIDOLE RAIL
To do this, raise the bil umil lt's aligned
with the mortises, Then. rout the grooves
along !lIe inside edges or the rails. On the
inside edges of the stiles. don't rout beyond
the mortises. sec Fig. 22a,

,NSIOE
STill 'NO

1,.--.............~ ~...;

LI4.,-_..J

24

ofi
-. 3-~- \..-14!>1"

MEASUJ[M1NTS

3.1--

RAil

No.67

DOOR PANELS
After the grooves were routed in the frame
pieces. J dry assembled theframes so I could
rout stopped chamfers around the inside of
the frames and take the measurements for
the panels. see Fig. 26.
CIIAMFF.RS.To rouubechamfers, mount a
chamfering bit in the router and lower i;:Ia"
below the base. see Fig. 24a, Then. il yOIl
place a W."wide block in each comer. the
bearing will hit the block and Slop the
cbamfcr fill" (rom the inside comer.
PANElS. After routing the chamfers. work
can begin on the raised panels. Start byedgegluing enough ."-thick stock 10 make two
top panel (FF) blanks roughly 16" x 36".
Then !rlue up the bottom panel (CC)
blanks to a rough size of 16x 26".
cur TO SIZE. To determine the finished
size of the panels. measure the openings in
the frames and add %" 10the height and
width. This allows for a "'Is'-Iong longue on
thepanels to filinto thcgrooves. see Fig. 27.
After you know the size of the panels. cut
the bottom panels to size. But the arched top

23

HINGE

L'

4';,"

liON

i.I

panels (FF). take a liule more work.

in the ~" slot in the door frame.
First.cuuhe panel towidth (%" more than
Note; 11,. panel is cut to fit only iY,s" into
the opening). Now center the panel on the the siOI. but a %" rabbet is cut On the back.
width ofthe opening and trace the arch onto This leaves a ifill" gap so the panel can exthe panel.Then cut along the curved line.
pand with changes in humidity,
To determine where to cut the bouom
FlNISR PANElS. Before assembling the
edge. measure the height of the opening at door. it'S a good Idea to finish the panels. !{
the highest point. Then transfer this you don't, and the panels shrink. the uomeasurement to the panel and add %".
finished tongue could be exposed,
IWSINCnlF. PM'J!lS. After the panels arc
ASSElIIJJLY. Now the doors can be ascut 10 size.the next step is to rout UlC raised sembled. Glue up the mortise and spline
panel profile on the front face 01each panel. joints. but don't put any glue on the panelsor
Since I used araised panel bit whhoura bear- in the slots. (The panel has 10 be able 10
ing on the router table, I had rouse the router expand and coruract, see page 17.)
table fence to gulde the edge of the panel.
ROUND-OVER
AND RARRET.There are two
(Note: To routthe archcd section. I clamped more step" on the doors. Round over the
a nib ann on the fence, see paRe 16.)
front edges with a 111"round-over bit, see
Start by raising the bit %" above the table, Step 1 in Fig. 26 a, Then rout a :VS"-deeprabsee Fig. 25. Then, rour (he profile in a series bel in the back edges, see Step 2.
01passes so ies l"wide. sceStcps 1 and 2.
t1NISH AND HARIlWARE.The only IhiOR
RABRIIT. Next. tum the panels over and
that'slcft lstofinish thecabinet, Then mount
rout a rabbet in the back. see Step 3 in Fig. thedoors with offsethin~
see Figs. ZI and
25. Make the cutin a series of passes sneak- 27. Finally. screw the catches and knobs in
ing upon the height until the LOnguejust fits place. see the Exploded View on page 19.

-.

,7
f--'
<IT>

TOP

.r

PANn

f--.' 15",'

~-14'\_.

....

'~.

.9<

U.

CHAMfERING

36'
..OUGH
,

Non:

.
...

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III

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to AllOW

FOR TONGU(:S,
CUT PANIJ.$
$i." WIDiR
AND

' ....N

OPfNINGS
IN DOOR

ON

'RAM'

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Snll

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.",.
t

-T

BOTTOM
PANIL

"-

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HINOI

3
I

,I

ON

o.

'ASltNINO .ANILS
DOOIt

No. 67

l!ROUNO.
Ovtj

27
lIT

~
.

.7
~-.~

'ACKfACl-

5t1W/UIU/

~,

..
MearrON

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:, ' -

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1.. " ROUND.

OV(RON

fRONT FAct

g
~.....II
:2

rr

CROSS SECTION

1.__.r<

RAB8ET

1t.

RAIIB"
BIT

Woodsmith

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HING.

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BIT

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1

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25

WOODWORKING

TECHNIQUE

Arched Molding
P

robably the most interesting feature of the Armoire

shown on pages 1810 25 is the
arched top melding. Thiscurved
top is Cypicalo[ armoires, but it
call also be found on the top of
grandfather docks and even
above house windows.

nique. The molding is actually

three separate pieces (If :4"'
thic~ stock glued logelher. Tbis
gives the appearance o( one
thick piece.
To get all three pieces the
exact same shape, I started by
malting a templale that defined
thecurve on the lop (seebelow).
Then I cui the pieces 10 match
the templnte, and routed a pro-

TRADITIONAL Tt:CIINIQOES.

Since most arches are made

from very thick wood, there are
IWOmethods that have traditionally been used to make an
arched lOP - carving with
chisels by hand. or usinR a
shaperwith molding cutlers.
111e problems with carving by
hand are obvious. It lakes time, the correct
tools, and most of all considerable sklll 10
carve lite COV('$and convex parts of such a
curved molding.
Ashapercould beused, burlt'snot a piece
of equipment found in many home shops.

CUnlNG

Finally. I Cut the bottom edgcs

and assembled all three pieces
so the top edges were Oush.
PROFILES. This technique
combined with all of the router
And, with a shaper, you're limited to the pro- bit profiles available gives you the ability 10
files made by the available cutlers. The pro- make an inOnitc variety of thick, curved
fiI(: on the Armoire would require a very
moldings. (On the Armelre. we only used
deep (and expensive) cutter,
lWO common router bits to form the entire
aUII. liP 111~ MOUlINC. For the arched
profile shown in the photo above - a V4"
molding shown here. I used a diffcrcnUI!Ch- Roman ogce bitand a It.l" round-over bit.)

THE ARCH

The easiest technique lor making all or the

pieces ror a built>up. curved molding is 10
start by making a template. Then, this ternplate can be used as a guide for marking,
cuttilig (with a sabre saw or band saw). and
trimming (with a flush trim router bil) all of
the pieces so the (01)edge of each piece fol
lows the exact same shape.

Armoire measurements are given here, bUl

YOIIcould change the measurements (0 use
To make the template for U,CArmoire, I this technique lor an arched lop ofany size.)
used V."-Ulick Masonite, Begin by cutling
RFER~:r.'CE UNES. I made the template
the Masonite ISVi' wide and 51Vt' long, sec into a "slOry slick" by laying out vertical refStep I in in mg. I.This makes the template erence lines wilhmcasurolUcms taken (rom
long enough 10use on both molding pieces the Armoire cabinet,
(S, U) as well as the top roil (N), (Nolc:Thc
To do this. first mark a centerline on the

THE TEMPLATE

PtNdt.- ....

1 T
13""'

file oJI f,,'11Ili(.'re wuh a router.

STEP 1

I I

.,...~

BLANK

1"0' MASONlTl)

TtMPLATt

STEP 3

ClNTUUNi"(_

Ler srne

WlDlH OF CAlINtJ
51 \.,.

r.
STRIKtlWO

.,

WIDTH

..

T>~/

,",Your

STEP 2 '"

r-r-t
I

26

--

<,

,.

I, I

l-- -t--

P~TtoN\IVOTPOINl
OtIlfAM COMPASS

PrvOT POINT

/; ""i
- ~'!
,.1

,.'" RADIUS

TlMPLAT[

1'-1 ,

~.
- \'''__

TO TOUCH 80TH 14"

SffOp.M.AOe
alAM COMPASS

ARCS ANI) TtfN

'

ARCS WITH PWOT POINTS

AIOVI

r-

BLANK

PIVOTPO'':

STRIKE U" RADIUS ARC

...

J.6"

.TWEEN

- PENCIL POINT AND

ti

P'SVOT POINT

PlNCIL ---""

WooJsmith

NOTE:
FASTEN TlMPLATf TO PLYWOOD

OR TABU WHIU LA'tlNG OUT ARCS

No. 67

length of the 'empL,te blank. see Step 1in Fig.

1.Then mark vertical reference lines at both
ends of the template to indicate the overall
width of Ole cabinet (471'.l"in my case).
Next mark a second set of vertical lines 1.0
indicate the outside of the door opening s. To
determine thlsmeasurement.I measured in
from the firsl set 0( lines the width of Ute
stiles (3" in my case).
Finally, mnrk horizontallinesat both ends
7" up from the bottom to indicate where the
arched curve meets the end of the template.
I1IIU::EARCS. Now the arched curve can be
laid out by drawing three arcs. First. two
smallarcsare laid out from above the lefland
right comers of the template. see Step 2 in
Fig. I. Then a large connecting arc is laid out
with its centerpoim.betow the bottom edge
atlhe template. sec Step 3.
To mark these arcs. I made simple beam
compasses from strips of Masonite with a
pivot hole (ora nail near one end and a pencil
hole near the other end. For the shorter
beam compass. locate Ute pencil hole 14"
from the pivol hole. see Step2. On the longer
beam compass. locale the pencil hole 36"
from iliepivol bole. see Step 3.
Next. fasten the template blank down on a
sheet of plywood or a large table, (I held it
with double-sided carpertape.)
To drawthe two smaller ares. position the
pivot paint olthe beam cornpass in line with
the outside vertical reference lines and 14"
above the horizontal reference Hnes. see

Step 2 in fig. 1. Then draw the arcs.

To drawthe36"mdius center arc. position

the pivot point of the longer beam compass
directly below the centerline On the ternplate. see Step 3. Then align tile pencil point
to ill~ttotl~h
the two 14"-radius ares.Atter
locating the pivot paint. strike the large are.
Cl]I'TO l;RAPli'. Now cut the arched lOP of
the template a little oversize with a sabre saw
or band saw and sand right to the line.
TOP RAIL

Nowyou can use the template tocut the arch

on the top rail Ior the Armoire.
RAILB~\NK. Begin making the top rail by
edg.,.glumg a blank from :VO" stock. (Shop
Note: To hide the joint line. try to match
grain pattern and color between pieces.)
For the Armoire. I cut the top rail blank to
a width of 131-'2" and to length to fit between
tile cablnetstiles (4)1-'2" in mycase). see Fig.
2. Then mark a centerline on the bottom
edgeoCtheblank.
MARKANO CtTJ'OUTARClL
Afterthe centerline is marked. lay the template on top o( the
rail blank and align the bottom edges and
centerllnes, Then draw the outline of the
arch on the blank. see Fig. 2.
Now remove the template fora minuteand
cut out the shape, s~,ying about 1-8" OIL/side
the pencil line, see Fig. 2a, (Shop Note: Since
this workpiece i..'\ so large, T found it easiest
to use the sabre saw for lhis cut)
FLUSH TRIM SMOO'NI. No.... here's the

trick (or making the lOPrail the exae: same

shape as the template (and the other two
molding pieces you will make later),
First, screw die template to the blank.
aligning the bottom edges and centerlines,
see Fig. 3. (NolC: The screw holes will be
covered later by the moldings uyou position
them t:Y." down from the arched edge.)
NexL tum the blank and template upside
down and clamp them dOYo'1'110
your bench.
sec fig. 4. Then mount a flush trim bit in
your router and lower the bit $0 the bearing
rides against the template, see fig. 4a,
Now when you run the router bearing
along the template, the bit will trim the edge
of the blank smooth and 10 the exact shape
otthe template.

After the arched top

edge is trimmed to shape, the bottom edge
has to be cut parallelto the top. Even though
the edges are parallel. the radii (or the bOl
tom edge are diffcremlrom tbose On Utetop,
so you can't use the same template,
To mark the bottom edge of the rail exacUy parallel to the top edge. I used a scribingstick. Thisscribing stick isjust an8"long
piece of Masonite with two nails driven in at
one end. see Fig. Sa. Afler driving the nails,
drill a pencil hole 67-11"(rom the.nails,
Now. with both nails riding along the top
of the archand a pencil in thehole, scribe the
bottom edge on the blank. see Fig. 5. Then
cut the bottom edge to shape slightly outside the line and sand up to the line.
CIlJ' OFF BOITOM.

sotlW

TEMPU.Tt

10 Il.ANK wITH
II>

ORAW OUJUN
0' AJt04
ONllANK
CUT 1,,-

TfMPLATI

OUTSIDE

"Nen.

UNl

AUON&olTOM
tDGtSAND
CIHTtRUNI$

llMPlATE

toP RAll

o.
ClAMP
TO

,
TtMPlATE

No. 67

SCRlBtNG
STICK

TIGHT AGAINST
lQP lOGI 0' BlANK

27

ARCHED MOLDING
The process (or cutting the top
edge of each piece is exactly the same as on
the top rail. Iused the same template as with
the top rail and marked and Cui the lOPedge
slightly oversize, refer back 10 Fig. 2. Next
screw the template to the blank (Fill. 3) and
trim the piece nush with the router (fig. 4).
(lO'rroM DG. To cut the bottom edge,
you could use the same process ason the top
rail. (Mark with a s,:ribing stick as shown in
Fig. 5 and then cut with a sabre saw.) But I
tried something a litde different here. Since
both pieces are narrower. I used the band
saw to get a more uniform CuL
To do this. clamp a pointed guide block to

On the Armoire, the arched top rail (explained on the previous page) serves as a
foundation Ior the actual arched molding.
'(be molding itself is made from two pieces
glued together - a base piece (S) with a
Roman agee routed along the bottom edge
and a trimpiece (U) with a round-overon Lhe
bottom edge.
CtrrFROM ONE BlANK. aoth pieces can be
laid OOl and cui from one blank. see l'ig. 6.
For the Armoire, I started by edge-gluing a
blank 12" wide and 51 YIi" long.
After the glue dries, plane the blank flat
and draw vertical line centered on the
length. sec Fig. 6.
ARCHED
MOLDING BLANK-,

T(W EDG.

't

--~

BASE

...-- MOLDING

~--

_~TRIM

r-

OlDING

I"-

--.;_'

(1NItRUNE

--

--

11"

.~

$1 \;2*

the band saw table so the distance between

the blade and the block is about V,r." wider
than the finished width of the molding. sec
Fig.7. (The h6" will besanded oCflater.) For
the base molding (5) (111 the armoire, clamp
the block 3it6" rom the blade.
Now cut the bottom edge of Ihe molding
by running the lOP(routed) edge agalnstthe
guide block,
SECONDMOlJ)II'C.AIter cutting Ihe base
molding strip (S). you can follow Ihe whole
procedure over nl!llil1 for the trim molding
strip (U). \Vhan cutting the bouom edge of
this PIOC'e on Ute baud saw. clamp the guid~
block l!l6" from Ibe blade.
SiU<1) TO wunu, Ai this point, each molding piece should be fairly uniform In width,
but about !/Ifill oversize and have a rough
botlom edge from the band 5:1W cut. [
smoothed the boltom edge with a sanding
drum on the drill press. sec 1"11.8.
To do this. clarnpa curved (convex) guide
block to the drill P",SS table and feed the
molding stril> between the block and the
sanding drum. 111. convex curve on Ill!!
guide block should match the concavecurve
on the lOPedge of the molding. (Shop Note:
Iused a convex section ofthewaste left over
(rom cuuing the strips from the blal1kJ
Clamp the guide block so the sanding
drum will sand the molding strip 1'<'I'Y
lightlv.111en feed the strip with a ~tI'(((lU
movement froOllefll11 righl. (DOO'l S~lP or
you'll gel a divot in the molding strip.)
Take two or three passes at each setting.
then move the guide block s1ightly closer 10
the sandlng drum and repeat the procedure,
Once the bottom edge of the strip is smooth
over its entire length and the strip is the COrrect width (:~\f;I"and IV4" for the molding
strips on the ArmOire),Slopsanding.

ROU"t PROFILES AND ASSEMBLE

Before gluing Ute moldings together. I
routed profiles along the bouom edges.
(Note: The Armoire also has straight moldlngsonthcsides.parts'I'and

V. withprofiles

that match the arched moldings. It's easiest

to roulail Ute pi~ at.the same time.)

For the crown molding

base strips (S,T). I used the router table 10
rout a Roman ogee along the bouom edges,
see fig. 9. To prevent chi pout, rout in a series of passes until there's a \Is" shoulder at
the bottom o( lh~ CUI. see Pig. 9<,.
ROMAN OGRE.

ROUN1).OV6R. for Ute trim strips (U.V). I

routed a W' round-overwitha tk" shoulder,

sec Fig. 9a,

ASSEMBLY. After the profiles are routed.

the moldings can be glued logclh~r(align

the lOPedges and centerlines). sec Fig. 10.

10

USE

,.,

MOLDINO
Kl[P (NOS
AHDTOP
(DOE'LUSH
WHtN
ClAMPING

28

\VuodsmiLh

No. 67

MITERING THE ENDS

r>

Once you've glued the two arched molding

strips together you're faced with another in,
teresting challenge. How do you cut clean,
straight miters on the ends of a piece that's
I Vi' thick, 511-'2"long, and shaped like a boa
constrictor?
And, iflha~s 1I0tenough of aproblem. the
two miters have 10 be the correct distance
apart or the molding won't fit the cabinet.
MITh'RINC CARRIAGE, To solve all of this. I
approached the la.t problem first. Ifigured
if I could cut miters the correct distance
aparton the ends of 'mightboard, Icould
transfer this measurement 10 the arched
molding. That led 10 the idea of using a
simple carriage (cutto the correctlength) to
hold ihe arched molding while culling U,e
miters on both ends,
CARIUAGr;: RASE. To make the carriage,
stan by cutting d base from a piece of 11.1"
plywood or Masonite. Cuuhe base tea width
of II"and 4l!" long, sec Fig, II.
I'F.NCFS. 'men screw'l',"thick
fences on
lOPof the panel along the Iront and back
edges, see Fig. U a, Keep the screws at.least
2" frumeach end so you won'thil them when
cutting the carriage to length,
M1TF.R
O)'JEEND.Next, clamp your table
saw miter gauge 10 the back fence near one
end of the carriage and set the carriage on

top of the saw, see Fill. 12.Then tip your saw

blade 10 45' and trim just a little bit off one
end of the carriage, (Don't cut the molding
yet, jusl cut the carriage for now.)
Shop Note: You can also use tllis carriage
on a radial arm saw without a miter gauge.
Iusttip lhe blade 1045' and hold the carriage
tighl against the fence when cutting.
AIITERT() U,:N(;m. Thetrick comes in cutting UI~miter on the other end of the carringe 10 the correct length. To determine
the finished length of the molding, measure
lhe exact outside width of the cabinet. (In
rnycase.the Annoire measured 47Ii'l'.)
'111en, 10 cut the carriage to lhis length. I
unclamped the miter gauge and turned the
carriage around so the other fence is"gainS!
the miter gauge. Next, make a series ofcuts
sneaking up

on

the

final

11

a,

dimension

until

the

distance from l(lng poillttolong /)oillt of

the miters measures the same as the outside
width of the cabinet. see Flg.12a.
Wait a minute. I lhought you said you
were going 10 cut the carriage the same
length as the finished arched molding. To fit
the cabinet. wouldn't that be trOID "'0'1'1
poillt.tos/urrt [)Oint nf the miters?
This may seem a little confusing. But remember, you're going 10 be selting the
moldingon 1tY]J ofthecarriage forcutling. So

12

-1

(DIet

13

terline on thecarriage, see 1;'1&.

13,Andkeep
both "feel" of the arch (low points) tight
against one of the fences, (I used doublesided carpet uape 10 hold the molding In
place. but you could screw through from the
bottom of the carriage into the back of the
molding.)
MITER ONE END. Mer Ille molding Is
mounted InposItion, clamp ihe miter gauge
10the back fence so the saw bladealigns with
the miter cut on the end oftheearriage, see
I"g, 13.11'en trim one end offthe moldingal
.45' angle.
CUT10 LENl;nl. Next. tum the carriage
around and damp the miter gauge to the
other fence sothe blade alignswith Ihemlter
on tile other end. Then cut the molding to
the finished length. Now the shcrtpoints on
the molding-should justlit theoutside edges
of the cabinet,
fRIM !10TH (NDS Of CAltlttAGE AT

o.

~4r--

'T
_l

the long points on the top of the carriage

basewill actually become thcshon pointson
the back onne molding. see Fig. 12a,
MOUNT 11m WORJ{PIF.CF.. Once the carriage is cut 10the correct length, draw a line
across it.centered Onthe length. see Fig. 13,
Then YOIl can mount Ille arched molding on
top of the carriage.
To cut an even amount offbolll ends.align
thecenteriineson the molding with the cen-

11..02"

Non:

'"

(NDS Of CARIIAGE"
All Mom.IO UTlIt
(SEt ftG. 12)

FIRST:

SECOND:

MITER9Nl (ND noSH

WIT'" (NO OfCARRJAGE

TURN CAItRJAGE AItOUNO AND

Cl.AM.PMmR GAUGE10
fENCE

THIRD:
SECOND END RUSH
WJTH (NO Of CARRtA.Ol
MJTU_

AlJGN

ARCH TOP MOlDING

CARIlIAGI

MITIR GAUGE TO CAIlRIAOI

No. 67

\Vooosmith

29

COMMENTS

AND

QUESTIONS

Talking Shop
MORTISING: ROUTERS AND BITS
shank. 'The thicker shank gives sistance and burning.
PRA11JRES. These bits are
specifically designed 10 do one the bit extra stability.
As an alternarive to high
Ihing-nll mortises, They have
and using a machine is speed.
However. there is one draw- speed steel bits. several mail
In the past, I've cut mortises tile plunng ability of a drill bit back. Thecutter length ona V." order companies offer solid carwith a drill press. This involves cornblned with a spiral cutting diameter bit with a l1!\1 shank is bide spiral end mill bits. see
drilling a series of holes, and edge that cuts side-to-side like a only I" long. see bit on Ille left in Sources on the next page.
then cleaning litem out with a router bit,
thephoto. Soyou can'tcuta morThe main difference between
chisel. (For more on this techTIle spiral on these bits have tise deeper than I" with this bit, solid carbide bits and high speed
nique, see ~Vood8mitl,Nc>.64.) an "UIXUI"design. Upcutrefers
Larger diameter bits have steel bits is the same as the
'Vhnethis mcthod works fine. 10 direction of the spiral, and longer cutter length. 10 make difference between standard
saw blades and carbide-tipped
an even Caslermethod is to rout means thai the chips are pulled deeper mortises.
MATIlRIAI.. Once you've deter- blades. Carbide stays sharp for a
OUI the mortise with a router, upeutofthe mortise to eliminate
build-up
and
clogging.
mined
the size of bils you need. long time. This means you can
But. to rout mortises you need
Okay, bUIwhy can't l just use you still bave achoiceonhe type cutalot ofclean mortises.
three things: a router. the cora
carbide-lipped
straight bil? of materialthe bit is made [rom,
CONCUlSION. So what kind of
rect bit, andsome means of at'CU'
The spiral bhs most readily bits should you have? ''Veil, ir I
rately aligning the cuts,
You call, but it's not the best
choice.
Straight
router
bits
have
available
are made (rom high really needed to make large
TIle Mc>rtising Table shown
on pages 12 and 13isaneasyway
mortises. and I had a router that
one or two 8t''aigitt cutting' speed steel.
10 align mortises and cut them edges which run in-line with the
Wail a minute. my first router accepted bits with a lIi' shank,
wiih a router. But ... what kind shank. Because the cullers are blts were high speed steel and I'd buy high speed steel spiral
of router is best 10 use on this nOI designed to plunge (drill) , they started burning the first end mill bits.
BUI,if 1 were to buy jusl one
table, and what kind of bit?
you have 10 force the workpiece time Iused them. Won'uhesedo
into the biLAnd there isn't a pro- the same thing?
bit, it would be a V'''-dia. solid
ROUTER
vision for pulling Ule chips up
NOl necessarily. Because of carbide end mill. (Note: Ill"
I've been using a Porter-Cable out of the mortise. which can the spiral design. only a small shank solid carbide bits are
N690 router, It bas a couple of cause overheatlngand chatter,
portion of lhe cutting edge available. butexpensive.) I think
features Illat work well with the
arrsizs.Ancr Jdecided louse rnakesccmaciwith the material. the smoothness of cut and its
design ofthc MorUsingTablc.
spiral end mill bits, I still had to This reduces the amount of re- longlifearewonh thecxtracost,
Note.The Porter Cable router decide the bit size. .--------------------------i
has certain advantages for the
DlI~'ffiTElI. Spiral
STATEMENTOFO\VNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT AND CIRCll1.A110N
Mortising Table. but you 0011 't end mill blrs are
(,llequiredby39U$.C, 3685)
.Ieed thisspecific router. It's nice available in a variety
I. TiLW of PublicOlliou~ Woocl'!l.tnlUl la. eu,bliClalion No.: 0164-41111, :to Olle of f11tnsr. ScplC.1flbtr
10 have a router with these fea- of sizes. To deterXI, t_1
r requtmey ofi-..sut!:Bimonthly. 3.:1.-I\u,oti.v.ue51JIlbll-liht'd In,hllLlly:G(.o,'be). 3~. AnnUAl
tures, but.almost any router \\ill mine the size of bit
~btcriplion pri': $12.!J5. 4, COI'llp4cU:~
nl.liliftjl:IId~~ ofknown ofti()t'iQl publicalionl,22()OCrand
A\'en\k', Des ~ioint"t. (Polk- County). Juwa SOOI2-4306. S. COntp~'1r mrulillg-l.ddn"lt....of IlW!
you need, first dework.
ht."ldq\lartm\CH~crnJ butlm(:8.t.o((ic:t:!;
orlh, p,lbUVler.Z200CnmdA\'rouc, D~ ~1,"nC'$.I()\\'a
ROllTER FEA11JRES. One fea- tennine the thick,
5031U3Oti. 6. 'Fullnnnllti and compit'tt'lIwling-addtetSof 1!\lblishc:r,lili10f'.and mltJlngill,gf!dimr.
ture l likenbout the Porter Cable ness of stock you
PubUd.t:r Md Editor: DCIMldR~,Pdcllke. 22'00 Gnnd A\7tftuC'.Oct ~1(llnt:t.loWli500J 2; ~illln~
router is that Ute collet can be mortise most often,
i:ng Editc;>r:l>n4~1l1.. Ifi(u.2200GrMd A\'en~ l)(!It.~loill(".t4WD 5tl312.7. C)"'ller. \VoodlO1\lh
COrpOraMu. ZZOOGnuld A\i\'~nllc.Des ~io1n~t loWl! 50012: Donald 8. Peeehkt', 2200 (.i.n.od
lowered flush with the base. U In my case. that's
Avtf!u....,IA.~
Molnl"!l,JtPWJt:;OO l2.8. Known bcnldholMJ'!.. ~I!o
..and blhtr~ritY
hol,den
the collet SlOpS higher. il can usually
!i4"olhick
oWlling Ipereem or JfJ4reof totallln,(I(lUlofbond'- mo~or
Olliff .securities: Nene. g, (~
limit the depth of cut since some stock.
not IlPPIy.) 10. F..xJrfll ""d nature ()(i.ircuut.,n::
of Ule bit's cutting edge will $UII
Since. the width
Adualno,QlP~
."'~
no, copic..c; o. Jinglelssub
be above the router base.
of the mortise is
tlCh issut durln.g
pubi$hed Jle-Me!It
Another feature that makes typically one third
l)t'(!C~pg 12month.
10 filing d:itt'
litis router easy to work with is lite thickness of the
A. Totnl no. ('C)pid printed (Det pn!SI rul;)
m.974
295,800
thatthemotcrcan becompletety stock, Iuse a V~'- B. Pa\d andl or ~UCSlt:d drrubtiQn:
{,6,';4
1, Silks through d('lIIlt.f'!.~el
\endO,...w.d COWII~r~
".4J"
removed (rom tbe base. This din. bit mosl often.
2.
Mail
",bscriptlo

(paOJ
and/or
requ
....
,,)
....
.
,.
~.o
13
25-1,334
means you can mount the Two other bits I use
:!Stj,\lt!8
C, Total pnld Md/orn.:qutsttd
cirouin!ian ...
,
270.-427
router's base 10 Ule Moni$iDg occasionally are !Ii"
O. Free di1lributJon by' nwl. COUTkrat olht!r rneani!:,!cWnple1l.
Table but still remove the motor and !fi'diameter.
complilMntuy ....ld ulherfrttQ)pk~ . , .~..
,.. 124
o
E. To",1 di$tribullon ..
.. Z1Q,S.'H
258.9&1
to change bils easily.
SIIANK, All of
F. c:o~"'"""I djlliJibulcd
these bit sizes are
1.OfQce u.&e. td't oVtr, wa.;Iccounttd. llpoiledw..printlli8 . 17.095
SPIRAL END MIU BITS
available with a l1!"
2. Rc:Cums.(rotn n('Ws '''Renl' y, ,',...
.328
A1Ulougbtherearescveral types shank. In most sitr..TQblI ,," ., ....
.
287.974
of bits that can cut mortises. I uations, I prefer a
prefer spiral end mill bils,
1'2" shank over a V4"
The only real difference IJ<)tween culling mortises by hand

30

WoodSll'Iith

No.6?

SUPPLIES

PROJECT

Sources

r:

eludes JUSI the hardware. (You Supplies (or from some of the
provide the plywood.)
catalogs llsted below).
Morti,;ing Table Hardware
Solid C'rbide End Mill
767225 MortisingTablc
.767250 V," Mortising Bil,
Hardware Package ........$3<1.95
SoUdCarbide. 'lf4" Cutting
(I) 7'lr4" x tn,," Phenolic PlasLength, V," Shank. ........$ L9.95
tic Router Base
(I) Transparent Orangi'Safely
High Speed Steel End Millo
Guard
278658 V4" BiL :y,1"
Cutting
(4) 1V."Dla. Knob, with 'lf4"
Length. I-'l' Shonk .........$12.95
Long, V4'"ZOThreads
278664 :VH" Bit. 1 V," CUI
(4) V." I.D.'nlrcaded lnserts
ling Length, V.!" Shank. $1<1.115
(4) lV4" 0.0 .V." I.D."'ashers
278-007 1-'2"Bil. I 'I.!" Colling
(8) 111.1"
I'll Drywall Screw"
Length, 1-2"Shank ........$15.95
MORTISING TABLE,
ARMOIRE
COMPLETE KIT
A package of the hard ware
There is also a complete ready- needed for the Armoire is availato-assemble kil that includes
ble from \Voodsmith Project
everything listed above plus the Supplies (or from some of the
pre-cutplywood,
catalogs listed below).
TIle plywood is Baluc Birch
Annoi..., Hardware
(13 ply. lY\s"!bick) w~UI the 767-300 Armoire Hardware
threaded inserts already inPackage ....................._. $34.95
stalled. AU you have to do is cut
(3pr.) $" Brass Plated Hinges
a slot (or l/olLr miter gauge and
(2) Pierced Cast Brass Plales
an optional hole to fit yo",. shop(2) Solid Brass Knobs
vac hose. Then glue and screw
(2) 13mss 13.11Door Catches
the pans logelher and mount
(28) Pin TypcShelfSullJX)rts
lhe reuter 10 the phenolic base,
RAISED PANEL BIT
Ready-To-Assemble
MortisingTablc .Kit
The raised panel bit (V4" shank)
767.200 Complete Mortisneeded 10 make the dooraon the
MORTISING TABLE:
firmat Knock-Down Screws
ingTable Kii .................. $14.95 Arnloir.., is available from
HARDWAH
(2) Tray Latches with Mount
Woodsmith Project Supplies
MORTISING
BITS
lng Screws and Catch Rods
AUtile hardware needed for the
(or from the Scars catalog).
(7) #8 x 'W' Pan Head Screws
Mortising Table i~
available as a The spiral end millruuterbitsfer
Raised Panel Bit
(3) Finish Washers
pack'lJlI!from \Voodsmith Pro- the Mortising Table are availa- 767325 RlIiscd Panel
(2) I Vi" Drywall Serews
[ect Supplies, This package in ble from Woodsmith Project
Carbide-TIpped llit .......S22.95

HIGHCHAIR. PAtTERN
Full-size pauerns for the high
chairs seal back and for a ternplate 10 rout the [ray recess are
available from \Yoodbmith
Pmject Supplie. s, Note: These
parterns are Indl! for the seat
back and tray. They do not Indude the IeI!'!ornuy etber 1=.
Hill/lcbair Patterns
767-125 Highchair Seal
BacKrrray Pauems ........$3.50
HIGHCHAIR:
HARDWARE PACKAGE
A hardware package for the
Highchair is also available. The
package includes nil hardware
needed 10 build the highchair.
plus 3 thre ...piece safety strap.
andthe hardware used to mount
the tray (springlonded latches
that swivel tile tray out of the
way. see the photo on page 32).
Highcbair Hardware
767-100 Highcbair Hard
ware Package .....$19.95
(I) FuU-5ize Palll!ms of Ihe
seat back and template for
rouung the tray recess
(1) Nylon $a(etyStrdp
(10) lVi'-I.ong (40mml Con-

ROUTER BITS
The carbide-tipped router bits
needed LO rout out the highchair's tray are available (rom
\Yoodlimith PmjectSupplies.
(See olhcrStlllplicrs below.)
Router Bits
271-7211;',1, Corebox Bit
(with VI" shank) ...........$21.95
271-7301-2" Corcbox Bit
(with Vi' shank) ...........$25.95
764-2001-2" Roundover Bil
(wilh V," shank) ...........$26.95
764-2501-2" Roundover Bil
(with 1-2"shank) ..,........ $28.95
.7671404(0" Slraight Bil
(with \!.til shank) ........... $14.95
767150 :y,," Straighl Bit
(with V2" shank) ...........$16.95
,;1tlOl fJltSlllNG. WIlen routing tile tray recess. you will need
a guide bushing (or template
)!uide) to fil Ille base of your
router. A1mosl all roU[('" manufacturers offer a guide bushing
as an accessory. Check with
your local dealer.
A universal base plate and
guide bushingsct thai will fil any
router is also available from
some of UtCcatalogs below.

ORDER INFORMATION
ay MAIL
Tn order by mail, use the term
nclosed with 0 current issue
or write your order on a pil'<"e
IIr paper, and -end it with your
clw\"l( ormoney order. (l~ea'e
lnclude $3.50 handlinz and
~hipllinl! charlie with each
erder.) lA residents add 4--.
sales tax, Scn~ order til:
WoodsmithProjeetSupplics
P.O. Bo" 10850
Des M oines.lA 60306

No. 67

ALTERNATE CATALOG SOURCES

SYPHONE
For faSll'r ~crviC1:II~uur"llll
Free order lin..:.l'hollC erders
can be placed Monday through
Friday, 8;00 AM to 5:00 PM
Central Standard TIme.
Bdore calling. have your
VlS!\ Of Master Card ready.

1800-444-7002
Alluk''s to tl It .... kftJord,rlitll*r!/.
,\nll" Ilfl(~8
Jtl4h;rc114 e/(tI)fgr

n{t,.. Stpl,'w6t:r, l!i9(l,

Similar hardware and suppli es moy he(nwLdilLthe followiltf!

calQ./ogs,Houseuer 81ylesond sizes may va",. Please refer /()
roth catalog (ororderiflginformation.

Garrett Wade
161Avenue or the Americas
New York. NY 10013
[{()I,(e" Bit. JI101ti8illg Bits
Woodcraft Supply
P.O. Box 1686
Parkersburg. \VV26102
Rout", Bits, .1/<lI1iifi1t1lBi/$

WooJsmirh

Woodworker's Supply
5604 Alameda, N E
Albuquerque. NM 871J3
Router Bits. Mhltisillg

Bits

The Woodworkers' Store

21801 Industrial Blvd.
Rogers, MN 55314

High ellai1', /Wilier Bits

3J

LAS

LOOK

Final Details
Armoire

Ii> All (tN'/"lI/l)l'

diJur11ti,ftJrtr

th

groc.Jut aN'II oJthe

top InQlllmg, Offset

braas hi"gM "'I'(lP

completely Q>'OUlIt/
to tile illside oJtlte
tipped (Wor,

Ii> Sulid ca.t IIl'u$"

ot'<!l pull. alOll1/
will!

tile stender. ekc

o1'lltive blYll$ back

"late "'" C'<11/ered 011

thr .tilc~ of the doors,

AA >I lllml slI;(ety .tmp i.a ""ilable Jor t/le

HightilUir. ;lIse) Iwailttbie i.~rial
}llI"t
111(1,'0that: lets tne I",?/ .'villa oul ojtbe

woy

32

mid

/tollg olJmgsiek IIntil """d.c</i.

A ~VitJI""t[( door.oplm 11011

"all really 8ee alL tile 8IQ1'G{f6p_i.
lIilitie. ill Oli$ 8ew>'foolt.allArmoi, .., Addauothercloset 11)(/ to
create mo"c ltanging 8p1ICf1, Or, i/!lo1t p~./trr,yOIl can place ad.jU8tabic shelves 0" both ride. of tllC cllbillel.

ATM. ~ItOpblliU llfo,ti$ing Table,,"~kc8 A You get, I1II IIIIOOSt1'lICted

vWwojtile c,,1.$ yo,,'re
1T"ick I/)ork out O/CUltillg aeccllmlc mor1II0},,;1I9. Pilla/Mgllllrd keeps
tises. Pari ofilli. arCILT(l.cy istne 'limptc
neigill (It/jl<.t1>'''lJt plate .1101/)11
a./'Ol'il,
your fi'llu''''''' wall friml tile hit.

Woodsmitn

No.67