NO.

65

NOTES FROM THE SHOP

$3.50

\_

..... .
~

fttI;...

_-

..

.....
No. 65

EDITOR'S

October L989

Wrodsmith

Sawdust

Ed'tOt Donald 8. Peschke

D05l9ll OireCIor Ted Kralicek
Managing Ed~or Douglas L Hicks
AssiStlllllEd~orsDouglas M. LIdster
Kent A. Bucklon
Terry J. Strohman
PIOjeCt Designer Ken Munkel
TedVlioalllluSlralol'SDavid Kreyllng
Cary Christensen
RodStoakes
Chris Glowacki
Customer SeN~ Linda Morrow, Mgr.
Pat Koob
Lisa Thompson
PtojectSupplr LestieAnn Gearhart
C<Jn!roller Paul E. Gray
CompulerOperalions Ken Miner
AdmiruslrlltiveAss1s. Cheryl Scott
Sandy8aum
SourceboOkJean Carey
BUlkfong Mainlenance Archie Krause

W(x_')l)Sl\~ITfI STl)RES
GernualManager Ste~eKrohmer
Matketilll) Manager Steve Dozier
SIOte ManagefS'
Sl.loc.Jls,Me Jon Behrle

Beclce!ay, CA Michael DeHaven

Des Moioos, LA Kent Welsh
WOODSMITH (ISSN 01644114) ;$ pub
lished blmonlhJy (February, April, June.
August,
October,
Oecember)
b-y
WOOdsmlth PubQshlng eo., 2200 Grand
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Woodsmith is a registered trademarlt of
Woodsmilh Publishing Co.
,~'CoPyri9ht 1989 by Wocxfsmllh PUblish
ing Co. All Rights ReseNed.
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SAMPLE COPY: We will send a free sample COpy 01 Woodsmith to anyone. Jusl
sand us hIs/her nal'r\eand address.

COLUMN

on't show this issue to anyone under heading"ROUl1NG 1)!llfCl'ION."

the age of 10 ... unless you've got
~'e try our best 10 show woodworking
some shop time blocked out.
techniques tim! are both safe and yield the
I can't remember two projects that have besi results. But safety should alw<iY~come
had such agleclulrcsponse from ourcollec- first. Read the Owner's Manual thai comes
lion of Wood.mill! kids as the Rocking with thetootsyou'reusing. Fellowthe Safety
Horse and Ihe Toy Train in this issue.
Instructions,
The ROCkingHorsewasan instanthit. The
N~matterwhat you read in lVoodsmifil or
any
other magazine or book, or what someonly problem wasdealingwith thechorusof,
"It's my 111m,"'[be Toy Train was jusl as one says, {jOIl/UlV. todecidf! I(I/Ult'~,"/e/I)!'
much fun. I was only disaJlPointed that I YQII. Think about what you're dOing. If you
couldn't gel through my discussion of how ever fed any hesitation about doing somethe connectors are used to join the sections lhing, don'l do it.
of track. About halfway through my explanaNEWFAC~:!;.As we get more involved wilh
offering
Project Supplies through the mail.
lion. these Lege-wise kids already had the
customer service is becomingnlore importrack assembled.
\Vell, that's the whole idea behind this tant, In faci.the whole reason forthis departissue: gifts Iorthe.Chnsrmasseason that will men I is to provide the best service we can.
soon be upon us,
T" help accomplish uiat goal. I've asked
ROCKING- nORSE. The Rocking Horse Linda Morrow to manage our customer
turned ouuo be marc of a challenge to build service department. (Linda has actually
[han J expected, It's more sculpture than been working herewith Steve Krohmer and
cabinetry. and requires a sequence er as- th.e ,Voods! itlt .stotes tcr the past year)
serubly that I had to stumble my way
Now l've asked her 10 take charge of fulthrough the first time.
fillment of the Project Suppnes, This means
Fortunately, we golall the details worked she has to' get our new computer system up
out, and then decided to add more details. and running, train new staff. and work day
fir$l, we added a mane and tail, Then we and night to make Sure everything' runs
added a real leather saddle and a bridle, too. srneothly and all our custorners are happy.
Although the horse could be built with'oul
"No problem," she said. looking a tittle
mese extras, Ithink it added a lOt (rom my weary.lready. I iotd hersbe could takeaday
"adult' point of view. Kids will love it either of( next spring to' rest up.
By the
Sandy Baurn who used 10'
way.
TH~:'l1l>\JN.The fun part of the 'toy Train
Jnauage our customer service department
was making the track. The trackisdesigned
(when it was mostly subscription manageso it's easy to make-and so mere sections meoO is now workiog as illY assistant. She's
can beaddcd any time in the future. Oncewe helping me with the business side of things
designed it, Ute hardest pan was walking - circulation. renewals. direct mail. It's
through the office as new sections of track great 10have her hell).
found their way in more nmazing pauerns
F.DO'ORNIiEOBD. \Ve're 1000kingforatleast
and stretching 10 new pans.of the building.
one good editor to join our staff. 111CprobOYAL HOX. There are two reasons to build
lem bas beenfindlegscmeonewith the right
the Oval BOl< shown in tillS issue. First, it mix oftalents,
makes a oice.giit. But the real reason, is thaI
Most magazines require editors with
it uses a technique that's just plain {un from ediling and wriling skills, At lVooosm!tl(,
awoodworker's standpoint.
we're lOOking (or someone with a first-hand
The box is based On Ihe shape of a bev- knowledge of woodworking, and an interest
eled-edge oval mirror. It requires transfer- in passing that knowledge on to others.
ring the shape of {his mirror to a template.
If you're a woodworker and have some
Then tlte template is used with a router to experience with writil)g. or a[ least a sincere
rout out the recess in the lid for the mirror intercstin learning how towrite. mayoe this
and.a complementary recess in we base for is the job foryou, Please send your resume
jewelry.
to: Doug Hicks, Managing Edilor
'[be idea is the same no matter what the
Doug and [ will send you a package of
shape. If you find an intriguingl>allern ofany information abour the job and the responsishape, you can make a template from it and bilities involved.
rout outthalshape.
N~'TtSSllE. The next issue o[ WQext.mith
CAlIllC,)S. I want to point oul the note of (No. 66) will be mailed dueing the week of
caution we've Pul on thene.,[ page under the December 18, 1989.

way.

WoodSll1ith

No. 65

FRO

FELLOW

WOODWORKERS

Tips & Techniques

GLUING ON A HANDLE

DRUM SANDER VACUUM

How do you glue handle into"

hole without smearing glue 011
the end of the handle 8$ it goes
in the hole? (F:ditc.,.>aNo/e: W.
fflcocl II.i8 ''''Qbl~11t011 tlte

Mounting" drum sander on a

drill presS is a great way 10sand
the edge o( a workpiece, But it
produces very fine sawdust
that's a nuisance and unhealthy
to breathe. To cut
down on til e sawdust, I built a box
thai works wilh my
shop vacuum.
To make the
vacu 11m box, rip
enough
:Y4"thic!.<
stock to form an Hshaped frame. I cut
all the frame pieces
~\r2"wide (high).
The IWO cross
members are cut to length so
they're I !ft' tess than the depth
(tront to back) of your drill press
table. The front and back frame
pieces are cut to length so

I solved this-problem by cutting a trough (or the glue in the

center section of the handle. As
the dowel is turned in the hole.
the trough distributes the glue
Ita1ldlep",Ute Rockill(/ Hors around the ,,,side of the hole,
$1(C)IVU 1~,,,tJli.si:Jttlw.)
see drawing.
To make the glue
DRill SfRIES Of
trough. I drilled a
SMJ\L.l HOL1-~,
series of small overlJiEN ffll ntOUGH
WlTJ04 GLUE
lapping holes in the
dowel. The drill size
and hole depth are
relative
to the
diameter
of the
A,OTATEOOwtL TO
dowel
you
use.
III$<!
SPREAD GLUE
V4" holes V4" deep
MOUND INSIOE tlOL{
OIl a l"-din dowel.
If the glue is spread around
Fill the trough with glue.then
the inside of.the hole; the end ()f insert the dowel through the
the dowel gets smeared with hole (trough-side up). ilfter cenglue as it's inserted. If glue is tering the dowel on the workspread on the center section of piece. quiekly rotate i.t a few
the dowel, it's usuallyscrapedoff
times to smear the glue around
Us the dowel is pushed through
the hole.
the hole. Either way, it usually
Stanley S("ipi it'll
makes a mess.
St(/l1kbrWge.Ow'yi(1

Now assemble the box. First,

center the plywood bottom
under the front and back frame
pieces, Then, 10 provide a lip so
U\C box can be clamped 10 the

lfAVROOM
-FORCtAMPS

WHfNGlU1NG

drill press, glue the cross rnembers in about 2" (rom each end of
the plywood bottom. Finally,
glue the top down to the frame.
I also CUI a set of inserts 10Jit

~~~~tj;~~~;C
r
have.
The drums
inserts I
the various
are cut (rom :Y4'1~
thick plywood 10 fi(
the square hole in
the top of the box.
Then drill holes in
the center o( th~ ill'

HOlf

ROUTING DIRECTION
Iu ll'oQwwlilil No.. 64 we po~cd.Typically we don't show
showed a dmwing Qf how 10 the 1I11a,'d in Ole drawings so
rout a V,," round-over ()'r. a you <an sec the relaliQnshil' o(
chair slat (Fig. "0)1 page 21).
the bit to the wood. NevertheIwant to S,, this bluntly: less, when you make the cut,
tbis drawing could be misin- the guard should' always be $(.4
terpreted and could be very eurely mounted on (he muter
dangerous.
table to protect your fingers.
2. I'QI( ~i",~/(Ifeed (l(JC!ill.1
TIle origin~1 drdwinll (Ipfl.
below) shews a router table tile rotatio Nf ffl.!, bit. The
with a \I~"round-over bit. TIw arrow showing the direl,u<)n (II
chair slat is bein).'! pulled Ieed wasJe(\oulofthedl'l!\\1ng.
tllrough the hi! 10 round over Il may 1000klike the workpiece
the c:ds,te. Wel left out IWU im- i~
bcingjlushed (right to left in
ponaru details on Ulisdrawil1g. the drawing). The propvr
1. 'lit_ !f'Ulra 8/umld he in direction of'Jeed is leltloright,
Iliac. wlu"l/'ver Ihe bit .. ",. as in the new dmwing, below.
ROUND OVER

lDGES. KEEPING
RNGERS ClIAR

(HAIR

BACK SlAT

No. 65

VACUUM
-H05<

serrs V."larger than

the sanding drums,

This will leave extra
they're about twice as long as area for the dust to be pulled
your drill press table.
through andatlows'space so the
After the mime pieces are cut drum doesn't have to be perto size, CuI a hole in one of the fectly centered in the hole,
cross members to accept the
To use the box, clamp it to
hose from your shop vacuum. II your drill press and lower the
sanding drum so il's just inside
Should be" friction fit
Now ripapiece Or.,," plywood the hole. Then lock down the
10width toequal thedeptb (fronl quill and you're readyto sand.
to back) of the drill press table.
An tho II BOl'Sill i
This piece iscut into two lengths
Sf"t",.I.lmui, Now Y01'k
(orlhetop and bouom QfU1Cbox.
The bot10mis thesamelength as
SEND IN YOUR tIPS
the width of the drill press table.
1f you'd like to ~harc Ii tip
and the top ls cut to the length of
with others, send in your idea
the front and back frame pieces.
Before assem~liQg the bOX,I to \VoodSlllith, '!'ips & TechDiques. 22tJQGrand Ave., Des
cutasquarehole right in ihecenMoines. Iowa 5031.2.
tel' of the top to accept sanding
\Ve pay $15 for accepted
drum inserts. Then, to keep the
tips,
Please send an explanainserts from droppi)Jg thro~gh
tion and a sketch if needed
the hole, I added cleats under
(we'll draw a new one).
the hole at the sides.

Woodsmi[h

JUS

FOR

K 1D S

Rocking Horse
Remember when you were a kid and couldn't 1'esist
the pure delight of rocking at full speed?
This is a project that creates dlose great memories .

.
(

always amazed at tile interest and opinions

aJ!.,,/bshaveconcemingchiidren'stoys.l'vewanted
to make a rocking horse for a long lime, bui Il'ying 10
come up with a rocking horse thai ail the adults liked

Can be traced to the importance of making accurate

measurements and identical curs, but the Challenges
of Ihi$ pl1)ject are different. As I W1ISworking On the
horse, I realized that I didn't.have to be so concerned
""4$almost impossible,
about exaCl1neaSllremellts- rather exactfu..
~IATERJAt..I knew from the start, thai a rocking
Irs 001 SO important that parts match our measurehorse shouldn't look thin or spindly, so I made the mems exactly. Il's more important they fit together weU.
body and tl.elegs otthe horse out 01lW'thick stock.
After I had built the horse's body, t wanted it to look
The thick material gives the horse a natural appear' even more realistic so Iadded a fewextras -iwo glass
anee and makes the back wide enough to sil on com- eyes, ears, mane, and a tail. All Ute extras looked so
fortably,I used ponderosa pine lor the horse shown good, I couldn't resist adding a leather saddle and
above, but any pine construction lumberwill work,
bridle. ('tVeliked these extra parts so much wedecided
Normally much of the challenge ill woodworking 10 offer them as a kit, see page 24.)
alll

Woodsmith

No. 65

EXPLODED VIEW

.8 ...2"
WOOOSCFLWS

OVERAll
DIMENSIONS

.."-

---531f2"------l
MAIN BODY PATTERN
GRI:O DIVIDED INTO 1M$QUA-IUS

'""

MAIN
BODY

piUG

_8

x- 11"4'"-

w'OOOSCIUWS

PLUG

l.

_Jj

FRONT
LEGS

fRONT/BACK

LEG PAmRN
T~

-: :-4

j..1
...__--11..'--_.;!----,-;",---:~1

1-------24"~

fOOfPa:G HOI.!

MATERIALS
WOOD PARTS
A MClinBody (I)
1!<.1 x 11'/.-38
8 Le~Wedges(4)
~x7h-1O
C Fronl Legs (2)
See below'
D Reorl!l9s (2)
See below'
E S<des (2,)
1 Y'2 x 11 If.- Id
f HeodSidePcs.(2).x7!/.-11
G Nec~ Pieces (2) -1'. x ;; ~ - 7
H Roc1<elS(2)
0/. x 2Y.!-53'h
I CrOSSOOlS(S)
*)(3 -17
) Hondlebal (I)
I'-dio. -10'
K 'oolpegs(2)
r-dlo, -4'1'.'
, Cut 0 front ooc reor leg from 0
24',long biOn!<of:2 x 12.

No, 65

----.;

CUnlNG DIAGRAM
SUPPLIES
(2)2xI2's,72'long
(2) 1x 8'5. 72'-long
(I> I ~8,36'-long
20' piece Of 1.dowel
(32)%'wOOQscrewhQIeplugs
'8 x I!/.', 18 x 2' woodscre<'1$
smoll rencfng steples'
(I)SkelnA'PJybrownyom'
(2)2-x4'plecesoflect!>er(eors)'
(2) I'glasseyes'
SoHnPQlyulelhone. 1pinl
Thesa ilemsore fnck.Jded In
lhE>hordware kil, see psQe 24.

WQOdsm'jth

MAIN BODY
The first srep in
building the horse is
to make an Lshaped
blank for Ihe body

1
MAIN
r

(A) from a 38"Jong

BODY

.@

piece of2 x 12 (lW'

x 11V." actual size).
To do thts.square
up one

edge of the 2

x. 12 to a final width of 11 ". Then cut a IZOl

long piece off one end, and glue il to the

other piece to fonn an Lshape, see Fig. I.
Transfer the body shape from the grid
drawingon page 5,or send forthepattem, see
page 24. (Formorcon grid drawings, sec page
13.)111encutout the body andsand thcedges,

CUT HORSE

-SHAPE TO THE UNf.

THEN Fill AND SAND SMOOTH

LEGS
Alter the body (A) is
sanded, I began
working on the leg&.
To give the horse a
naturdl stance, I
added wedges behind each leg.
I.EC WEOCES.111.

leg wedge's (B) are

formed by gluinl;: five smaller wedges together, see Fig. 3.(For more on cutting
wedges. see page 13.)
lAY OUTntE lEGS.Alter the wedges (8)
are glued up, lay out the front leg (C) and
rearteg(D) on a piece of l!-2t'slock, see Fig.
4. Also mark;Ih~ screw and foolpeg holes,
Now rough)y CuI apart the two legs, see
Fig. 4. 111eo drill a Iootpeg hole in the fronl
leg with a I" forstner bit. Also drill holes (or
the mounting screws inboth legs, see Fig. 5.
cor IN 'two STEJ'S."he wedges (B) have

10 be cut 10 finalshape while auached to the

leg. BUI. because this creates a rather

awkward culting angle, Ihad to cut the legs
and wedgesin two steps.
First, draw a line across the pattern 10"
down from the top of the legs, see Fig. 6.
Now cut out Ibe lower part of each leg
(without the wedge attached), exiting th<:
boardat the 10"mark.
Next, attach the wedges to the i,,~uleof
the leg with carpet tape, see Fig. 7. Then
place the wedge-side down on the band saw
table,and cut the remaining shape. see Fig.8.
When one frO!)tleg (C) and one rear leg
(I) have been culoutand sanded, use UICOI
as patterns (0 layout and CUI the other two
legs. (Be sure the holes on this second set
mirror those On the first)
PosmON TILEU>GS.Next. you can posilion the leg&on the body (A).The problem
here is 10 determme 8 reference point to get

the legs at the correct angle (stance). Iused

Ihe joint line (from making the Lshaped

body, refer to Fig. 2) as a reference line.

1'0 do this, place a straightedge on the
joint line so it extends 18" beyond the
horse's belly, see Fig. 9. Now position the
rear leg (0) so the top of the leg isflush with
the horse's back and the hoof is l~"from
thestraightedge, see Fig.9.Then screw (but
don't glue) the leg and wedge 10UICbody.
With the rear leg in place, position the
frontleg (C)so the top ofthe I~isnush with
the horse's back. Now acijusl the front leg
until there's 22\.!.!"between the hooves and
6" between the top of the legs. see Fig. 9.
Then screw (but don't glue) the fronlleg
down to the main blldy.
TRL'L\IING TIlE WEpGES. \Vhen both legs
are mounted In one side, there's a section of
wedge under the horse that needs to be
trimmed, Tum the horse over and trace the

DRJU i- PEG HOLII

I ""OUP IN FRONT

18,(;'

!.fGONLY

WOODSCREWS

...

COUNTt--

i/tBOR.

.!
SCREW

LEG

HOLE
LAY OUTlGS

WEDGES

USING GRfD

(4 TOTAL)

1.1;-

lfG

DETAIL

"".-;;:;;;--.1 ~

PAmRN

SHANK HOl!

SANOOur ALl SAW

MAAKSwtfH_
DRUMSANOER

CUT LOWER.

PARTOFUG
rOSHAPE
UP TO THE
10"" MARK

W()odsmith

No. 65

LEGS

CONTINUED

horse's belly Onto each wedge. see Fig. to.

Now unscrew-the le~. pull offlhe wedges.
and cut to the.line.
RO\.lND OVERI.C5. To complete the legs.
I routed a W' roondover on lheolltsideedge

all the way around. (Note: Don't rout the

bottom onhe hool.) However. the rounding
on the i11silieedge stops auhe wedge. To do
(his, place the wedge in position on the leg
and mark where it meets the edges of the

leg. see Fig. 10.Then remove the wedge and

rout up to these marks,
Repeauhe same procedure for the legs on
theotherside. Then screw all four legstothe
horse's body,

AnACH t[GS TO
&COY WITH .8 )It 2WOOOSCREWS

fOOJPfG

HOLE

SECOND:

MARK LEGS
WHERt THEY
MEET "HE amy

1----22~"_-_-I

SIDES, HEAD, AND NECK

Ididn't wanta skinny
horse, so Iadded the
rwe sides (E).

they're Oush "'UI the main head. and (hen

clamp (but don't glue) them in place.
NECK. Nextcomes the neck. Forthe neck,
SAND TO rrr, To get a good fit. I cut the follOWthe same procedure as when making
MAJ<'EA PATI'RN.
To determine the sides oversize. and then sanded to tile lines. the sides (!O). see Fig. 15.Once theneck (G)
shape of the sides. I Once the sides fit. rout a Vi' round-over on pieces Iit, glue the head pieces and neck
made a paper pat- all (our outside edges. and glue the sides to pieces to the main body.
tern. Begin by un- the body, see Fig 13.
sour HEAD,IND NECK. \Vhen the gtue is
screwing the legs on
T1lACETll IlEAO.The next step is 10 cut dry. remove the 6'ont legs and rout a "'til
one side of the horse just enough to slip a the head's side pieces (1"). Start by tracing round-over on the outslde edges or the head
piece of paper under them, see Fig. It. Now each side of the main head onto a piece of and neck. see fig. 16. (Note: Don't rout the
trace tbe outline ofthe back, belly. and both 1x8stock. and drawthejaw line. see Fig. 14. neck where it meets the leg$.) Finally. glue
legs onto the paper. Cut out this shape and Now. cut out and sand these two pieces so anti screw the legs in place.
gl\l~ it to a piece 0(,1 \I!!"-thickstock, see Fig.
12. (Since the shape may vary, make a separate pattern (or each side.)

11

14

muOWCIUD
PAnRN10

TRAct

15

OUTUN

16

Of NE~,K
ONTO

MAK~JAW

ONE

R(MOVE fRom

LEGS

'AND ROUT lh"

RouNO-OVER

PAPER

,IT
\'

'"

TRACE'BOtH '~
SIDE-S Of H,EAO
0N10 1 x & STOCK

No. 65

PI(ES SO
JHtY'RE
FLUSH

""

WrrH
BODY

SUD' PAPER

.~DAE=j)~~:

GLUE HEAD

.~

SIDE PIecES

~"'\"*
.~
~.

AND NECK

PIECES INTO
PLACE

.~
~~

Wooosmith

ROCKERS AND CROSSBARS

two boles. the sise ora pencil.
ORAII'TItE CURVE. Next. place a 54''lQng
piece of l x 8 stock under the beam and ill'
sert a pencil through the holes to draw the
curves of the rockers (H). seeFig. 17.
Tocornplete the layout. draw a 2Vi' radius
at the end of each rocker, see Fig . .173.
a six- [001beam com~IAKJNGnIECROSSRARS.Aftercullingoul
pass to lay them-out. the rockers. next [ cut five crossbars (I),
MAlffiACOMPASS.
To make the beam corn- sec Fig. 18. Round over bolh the top edges
pass. start with a 78'long strip of wood and and ends with a I't' round-over bit.
nail down one end, seeflg. 17.NolYmeasure
To attach the crossbars to the rockers.
counterbore
mounting holes fOrNo.8 x Iv.."
down from the nail 69l'l" and 72". and drill

.=:>

Aftcl'lhe basic horse

is completed. work
can begin on the
rockers (11). Since
the curve of the
rockers Iollows a
large radius. r made

17

o.

woedscrews, ScI' fig. IS.

MOL~"mE CR(l$$Il,\IIS.To posiliun th e

from and rear crossbars ([j on the "" ....r-,

(1-1). mark the centerpoint of each rod,. r
Thenmeasorethe distance between theel'
rer olthefrom and rear hooves on lh"hol"c
Now screw LWO crossbars, (1) illlo the roc).;
ers so Ihey will be directly beneath the
hooves. see I'ig.19.
Anach the remaining three crossbar, <o
they're 1/4" apart and centered on the rockers. see Fig. 19.Then plug the screw bole>
and sand them flush.

18

NAIL BEAM
DOWN

lEAMCOMPASS
(MAKIFROM

".

C;UT21.,.,"
RADfUS ON 80TH

- COI1NTtlJ.&OIU

ENDS Of ROCKER
/'~ROUT ..""ROUND-OVO

STRiP OF
WOOD)

ON ALL TOP !=OGlS

SQU","" ROCKER
Bl,ANKAND
8AMWITHA,
fRAMING SQUARf:

\._

19

AnACH CROSSBARS
WlTH ,8

ROCKERS

'-1-- 7~"R

x- 11/4"

WOODSCREWS,
lHIH PLUG HOLES
AND SAND RU~H

P(N(ll

/'

HOLES

_I!

11C8

T
AftACHING

LEGS TO CROSSBARS

Now that all fivecrossbars (1) are screwed in

place, the horse's hooves have 10 he cut so
they'lI sit Oaton the two outside crossbars.
I3cgin by centering the horse's hooves,
O'Ollltobackand side to side. on the outside
crossbars. see Fig. 20.
SCRUlEntEcmUNE. Once the horse is in

positlen, scribe a CUtline around each ofthe

four hooves.
Note: If the horse sits unevenly or titts to

one side. place" small shim under one or

more of the hooves until it sits correctly. In
orderto scribe each hoof. the shim must not
stick oul (rom under the hoof.
1'0 scribe the hooves. first determine
which ofthe hooves has the great est amount
of space beneath it.Then. usiAgthescrilling
block technique described on page 12.mark
aline around each of the hooves. see fig. 21.
(This is where each of the hooves will be

eut.) Now use" fine tooth hand saw to trim

each hoof along the scribed line.

SCREW DOWN 1I0HSE. Wh.en the hooves
have been cut.and they sit flat, the norse can
beauached to the two outstdccrossbars, To
do this, mark the center oC each hoof on th~
bo ltonl 0f the crossbars, Then drill and countersink a :VII;" shank hole. USing one N<l.8 x
2" woodserewper hoof. screw lhe horse il110
place. see Fig. 22.

21

20
C(1oll1!R HOR$E

ON CROSS-GARS

ROCKER

.OCKERS

Woodsmith

1'lMPORARllY
SHIM HOOF I' NECESSARY

No. 65

HANDLEBAR AND FOOTPEGS

Once the horse is the VO';lit oflhespade bit breaks through the
screwed down to the other side. Then. back the bit out and drill
crossbars. I added from the other side
the handlebar (J)
Note: I used a Portalign on a hand-held
and the footpegs drill, see Fig. 23.
HANDI.IlIlAR. \\'ith the hole drilled, the
(I<) to keep little
hands and feet in handlebar (I) is Out 10" longirom a piece of
place.
1"-<loweJ.l'letorethe handlebar-can he glued
Ih"'1Ol.EllAR JIOU1. into place it has 10 be centered in the head
To locate the position of Ihe hole for [he and then markedso that equal amounts Slick
handlebar 0) refer to the grid drawing on OUI eliher side. see I'ig.24.
page 5. To prevent the wood from splinterNo!e: To glue the handlebario place Iused
ing, drill through one side of the head until the tip described on page 3.

23

SinceI didn't want the handlebar 10 move

afler it was glued, r also pinned it in place
with two 4d finish nails through the horse's
neck and into the handlebar, S(.'(! Fig. 24.
FOO11'F.(~~.
'To make the footpegs (K).cut
two 4%"-long pieces of I" dowel. Then glue
the IWOpegs into the boles drilled in lite
fronllegS (C). Also use 4d finiSh nails to pin
the pegs in place. see fig. 25.
All that's lefllo complete work on the
handlebar U) and the foolpegs (K). is 10
sand the ends or the dowels 10 a soft radius
and fill the nail holes with wood putty.

DRill
POIitTAt.fGN

~~_

--~
~
.~

HOll j:$tOM
80TH SID(S
TO AVOID

...
~

NOTl:

2S

, PIN'OOWIl wnH
,

4d FINISH NAIL

_ rAOM ~ACK 't

OF LEG

SpuNttRING

:1

'I'

H....

lOCATt HOts
FROM GRID

SlOE
PIEcr

DRAWING

<.

<,
I"SPADE '~\

Bll

"

\,

:x(;P'

"
tt

PIN IiANOlEBAR

WIlli TWO 4d
FINISH NAIt.S

t.:

/
I" DOW'll.

/.

FOOTPEG

1\1 \
, FRONT

UOI

EYES, EARS, MANE, AND 'AIL

'TIle wooden parts of Using the grid drawing as a reference, 1 enough. 'DICIt usiog 8 small fencing staple,
the horse
are drilled a I" hole. Vs"deep on either side of attach the yam in dumps of 15 pieces. StaJ1
complete

at this

point. Since this

horse is bound 10
lake some abuse, I
wanted the finish U>
be as durable 8S
possible. I used two
coats of satin polyurelhane. sanding lightly
between coats.
EYES.The finishing touches are the eyes.
ears, mane, and tail. The eyes I used are
called glasscraft eyes that are 1"in diameter.

26

,. HOJ,E,
'/I"DEEP

NOT:

placewith epoxy,sec Fig. 26.

AAMS.The ears are "lit from two small

pieces of 'Ill"-lhick leather. Tomakethe ears.
cui the leather into football-shaped pieces
that are 2"-wide and 4"loog. Then fold the
two pieces in halfleng1)lY,;se and nail them
to either side of the head, see fig. 26.
rus MANE. WI1al'sahorse withoul a Dowing mane?To make the man", cul4-ply yam
into Ill" lengths. There are over 200 strands

I" above the base of the neck and center the

staple over the midpoint of Ihe pieces of
yarn. see r~g.27. Note: To prevent a bald
spot at the top of the head. 1stapled in extra
clumps o( yarn.
'filE TAlL The

final step is LOadd the tail.

The tail i$ made Ihe same \yay as rile mane
except the yarn pieces are 28"~()n~ and
there are 34 pieces in each of the three
clumps, see Fig. 28.
[fyau w.. nLIOmake thesa(ldlc and bridle
of yarn ill Ute mane, so make sure LOmake shown in the photo.see Sources on page 24.

FOlD liAlloIER

EARSIN H~U:,
THEN Np,'L
IN PlAC!

lOCATION OFEYESAND EARS

DfTtRMINEO
ONGRJD

DRAWING

the head. Then I simply glued the eyes in

,p-

'

,:'

I' '.

(.J

IeJ);'O,l
.:;.:?

$TAPli 3

C-\.UM'S
CWYAI\N

,
\

t." APA,RT
15 StRANDS

Of l'''lONG

No. 65

YARN

Woodsmith

EVENING

ONE

PROJECT

Stamp Dispenser
W

hen. 1started working on this stamp dispenser. I tJ1Qughtil

would 00 a relatively simple project - something I could
knock out in one evening with no problem.
Bull discovered there was one especiallychaJlengingaspe.cl. The
stamp dispenser is basically Iwo pieces - all. outside rase and a
stamp holder tilat slides inside it, refer to Fig, 8. The challenge is
finiJlg the holder into the case-perfectly, A lillie loose and it slides
rightoul. A little tigot and you can 'I pull it out to add aroll o( stamps.
Ilhas to be nearly a perfect friction fit.
There arc two secrets to gelling this kind o[ fit. First, Ute case is
designed so the stamp holder iscut.directly out ofthe centersecuon
of the outside case. But even with Ibis design it still lakes a litlle
patient sanding. Don 'Ltry to speed alOng 100 f*SLUse a gentle hand
and a few trialfits to sand the holder down 10the right fil in the case.
Before you start. there's a decision to be made about the lype of
wood to use, Building a case this small presents an ideal opportuJ)ity
to use up some of the scraps around the shop. It's also a way to
experimentwith exotlc woods. wi!houtspending a fortune,
Thestamp holderwtllaccepla roll ofone hundred stamps (Whith
costs a lot more than when IWasa kid).

LAMINAnNG

THE CENTER BLANK

The cemer section of the case and the pull-

out stamp holder are made from one blank.

This blank has \0 be 1Ya" thick to accomodatearollof'stamps, ltcan be one solid block
or laminated (rom three pieces, see Fig. 1.
CENTER

B1..A1I'1<.To make a lami-

nate.! blank, rip a~4"thick centerpiece (A)

21-1l"wide and", least 3" long. (This is Ys"
wider than the final blank to allow for trimmingo Also. fOr easier handling, I recommend cutting Ulis piece 8" long. 111is will
yield two dispensers out olone blank.)

1
10p

~/4"

Next, resaw two side pieces (8) :!ti6'"

thick. (This thickness will product' a block
1!.tthick - \1i" more than the heJght of a
lO<k:OUJlt roll of postage stanrps.)
t"IMINATE. After the pieces are CUI. glue
and clamp ihe thin side pieces (B) to both
faces lhe center piece (A). see Fig. Ia.
Make sure there's uniform clamping pressure over the blank.

or

CI!f'IO$IZE. "'hen theglueisdry. trim the

blank down 102!' wide and cuto((a3"lenglh.

Shop Note: i3e(oregoillgon.llabelled the

front, back, top. and bottom to keel) track of

all the edges, see Fig. I.

A 1y."-dia. hole ts jusl the

right SiZCIOholdaroll oflOOstamps.layout
a centerpoint (or this hole on the side ofLhe
blank 7,jj"down from the top edge and %" in
(rom the back edge. see Fig. I.
Then drill out the hole on the drill press.
see Fig. 2. To keep from chipping out the
back side. flipthe piece over when the point
of the bit breaks through and complete by
drilling-(rom [he back side.
OI!lU. IlOI.

~SIDES
IRONY

Nom

Q.

DRill fROM
80TH SIO(S

TO PJtEVlNT
eMJPOUT

'0
1I'4"OIA.
FO~ER

OEl SPADE srr

_)
BACI(ING

TOP

BOAAO

"

.""

KEP EDGES F1.USH

WHEN ClAMPING
aOTTOM

10

Woodsmich

No. 65

CUnlNG

OUT THE STAMP HOLDER

Mer drilling the hole (or the roll otstamps,

I used the band saw to cut the stamp holder
out of tho center ofthe block.
St." UP FENce. Start by clamping the rip
fence (or a straight piece or plywood) 10the
top of the band saw table V," from the i118U18
or the blade.see Fig. 3a.
FIRST cur, There are actually three separate cuts thatproduce a "U" shape. To make

the first cut, set thetopdgeofthc laminared

blank against the fence and start the cut on
fhe fron; IIdgo, cutting until the blade just
breaks into the hole, sec fig. 3,
SECONDcor, Before making the second
and third cuts, mark stop lines 14" from the
back edge on both sides, see Fig, 1. Then
place the piece so the bottomedil. is against
the fence and make the second cut until the

a.

blade touches the stop line.

THIRDcor, To complete the "U," first tum
off the power and remove the fence, Then
feed the blade back through the lirstcut until
it's in Ute hole and next to the pencil line.
Turn on the power and cut along the pendl
line down to the second cut. and remove the
holder. see Fig, ,I. Once they're cut apart.
save both of the pieces.

4
REMOVE
STAMP HOLDER:

NOTE:

u,sHAI'[<>
pfleI
SICONO
CUT/fUJI

IICOMES

Jr---_I

~-:........ ..,.."

OtmllCIIS(

BlAH.

ova so
SOITOM

NOTE:SfOP

EDGE

IS AGAINSt -fENCE

POwat AfTtR CUnlNG,

THEN "BACK BLANK OUT

FINISHING THE DISPENSER

A(ter the two pieces are cut apart. uie ease is
ClJrOFF..'1D.Merlhe holder fits into the What you want is a friction fit between tlte
completed by gluing :VIS" -thick case sides case, sand the lop and bottom bandsawn holder and outside case. To gelthls, r pulled
(C) to the outside olthe "U".shaped case.
edges smooth.Then slide the holderall tilS eut thebolder and sanded lI1esides.ligilttg,
CIIfTO SIZE. Start by cutting tbe sides to '/(Jag in the case, and push it down so there's
'The best way to do this isto rub the stamp
the sante width (2") and length (3',) as the a slot for stames at the top. Now cut off the holder across apiece of sandpaperthars lay
case. (For these parts, Iused the same wood front of the assembled pieces. see Fig. 6.
ing on a Bat surface, see f'ig. 7, Keep check,
as the center piece on the case.)
CORNERRWIUS. Next. cut a Y$"radius off ing until the holder fits loose enough to pull
DRIll HOLE.To provide a finger recess (or the top back corner of the case and sand this out easily, but norso loose it falls out,
pulling out the stamp holder. r drilled a I" comer smooth, see Fill: 6.
ROUND EDGllS. Finally, round over the
dill. hole through both side pieces (C), see
FlUCI10NFIT.Now comes the tricky part. edges of the case, see Fig. 8.
fig. 5. (Later these holes will be
cuLin half, refer to Fig. 6.)
RISAWTWO PJECES
c:;tVEON SIDES. Now you can
5
6
~~THIC:K
glue and clamp Ute sides 10 the
case with Ote holes toward the
open end of the "U," see Fig. S.
Here's the flrst point where
CASE
NOTE: n~~~~
you have In be careful or the
STAMP
SIDES
stamp holder won't have a perBLOCK
MUST
feci fit in (he case. First, apply
Ge110KT
the glue sparingby. Any glue
AGAlttsr
ORll_t 1"!)IA.
INSIDE
squeeze-out inSide the case will
HOltrnOOYGH--.)
SOTTOMAND
prevent the holder from fitting.
60TH stDE .,IICES
8.ACK Of eMf
CUT-END OFF
And don't put too much pres8Ef.ORE CUITING
CASE ANOkOlDER
sure on the clamps.
REtNSERTROLDER.Once the
NOTE:
glue dries, remove the clamps
7
8
PLACEA ROll OF 100
and push the Stamp holder back
STAMPS INTO H()u)E~,
U5l t,ot ..
into the case. It will probably be
TH(N suee INTO cASE
ROUNOo
a very tight fiL !fil doesn't '1itall
OVER 8.IT
ON AU.
the way against the back of the
OU'rSl0E
case. check for any dried glue
EDGES
that might be in the way.lfitstiU
EXCEPT
",ONT
doesn't fit, you may have to
EDGES
$lightl,!/ sand the side of the
LIGHnY
stamp holder, see Fig, 7. Don't
SAND STAMP
DOfoI'T
HOlDtR FOR
sand too much - you want a
IRONTWGlS
fRtC'TION fff
very:tight fit at this point
EDGES

No. 65

W00<lsm ith

1I

TIP

SOME

FRO

OUR

S HOP

Shop Notes
SCRIBING
After scribing, cut the side of
the cabinet on the line and it
should nestle in againstlhewaJl.
,~ PROBLEM. While a compass
works well. there can be a problem. This occurs when you're
trying 10 scribe a small distance
(as when making the lemplale
for the Oval Box). \Yilh the point
and the pencil <0 ('10.""together.
you cant mark wittnhc tipO(lhc
pencil without pushing Ihe pivot
point away irom the side of the
obiect, sec FiJr. 2.

When Ibuilt the template tor the thatpassesthrough thecenterof

Oval Box on Pl'ge 20, [ had IQ the legs. This a(ijustilig rod al.crib~a
linenround the oval mir- lows the com pass to be set
ror. When you scribe a line, aU easily. 'The other benefitto using
you're really doing is tracing this type or compass is the legs
around an object. The trick is to won't move as you're scribing.
always keep the lracing an eq!tal
SCRI81NGA CABINcr. A lPical
distance from Ihe object,
example of scribing wilh a com'
CO~LPASS,The traditionaltec!
passwould be when filling acablor scribing a line is a compass. inet ro an uneven wall. see fiJr.
A compass can be setso the pen- I.To do this. setthc distance be.
cil point and the pivot polrn stay tween (he compass pointand the
a specific distance apart.
pencil <0 the pencil leaves a
Thecompass \hal [ like io use mark on the cabmet as you pull
lor SCribing.has a threaded rod the compassdown the wall,

POS"RllOARI>

SCRIBE.

To

solve this problem, I scribed

around the mirrorwith a piece of
posierboard and a pencil.
Starting with a 1" x I" square
or posterboard, 1 punched a
small hole al a desired distance.
(W' (or tile Oval Box) from one
edge. see Fig.3a. Then push the
lip or a pencil in the hole until it
just starts to come through the
other side.

Now. hold the posterboard

light against the ~ide of the mirror and move the pencil around
the oval. see Fig. 3.

3
a.

a.

!-tOLD

PENCIL

PENCIL

POI'"

VlllllCAL

JUST

CA81NIT

lHltOUGH
POSTEA60AAO ~

)V

UNEVEN
WAll.

c.>

...
-'" x 1POSTERBOAJtD _

(OMP~POrNT
PUSHOAWAY
FAOM SIDE-

SCRIBING BLOCK
Scribing the hooveson the R(,cking Horse was a problem that required a differenl solution, Since
there's a space beneath the
hooves, the poinl of a compass
will slide under it and make all
inaccurate scribe line.
To solve this problem, 1 ap.
plied the same technique t use
when leveling lejls on stools and
chairs. The idea is to scribe a line
on all four legs that's an equal
distance from the fleor, Then,
when the legs are cut on the
scribed lines, all the 109>;SI!Oal,

ers as explained on page S.)

$CRIBI;<C 81.0CK.
Ne1<1.
SHIM UP l.EC. Now, add a measure the distance beneath
shim under t he short leg (01' the bottom of the shortest leg
legs) unm thestool sits level. see (the one with the largest shim)
Fig. I. (Note: rr the shims suck and cut a small block equal to
out from under the legs, they'll that measurement, see Fig. lao
interfere.when you scribe.)
To scribe. place the side of a

(;,., .'
,

Horse, setthehorsecnthc

12

rock-

, ~

,
SHORT
lfG- ~

8lOCK

THtCKNtSS

srr StOOL
ON FLAT
SURfACE

WORK ON Ft,A1' SURFAce,

Begin by setting the stool on a

nat surface, TIle table saw is the
flattest surface in my shop.
('Vhen sen bing the Rocking

e,

pencil pqintligbtagainst the lop

of the block. Then move the pencil and block around each of the
legs. see lig.2.
All that's lC(llo level the stool
(or Horse) is to cut each leg on
the scribed line.

",..

...._

EQ,U/ll.$
DISTANCE
UNOE.R

SHOflTUG

NOTE:

lr-;::l~

HOLD PINCll TiGHT

SKIM

t..

SHORTST~

SCl.8E
BLOCK

LEGIS,

AGAINST SlOCK
ANO SC.R,SE'
AROUND

SHIM

SHlM CAN NOT

_STtCKOUT

AU. FOUR.
lfG$

66'tONDUG

Woodsmith

No. 65

TRANSFERRING A PAnERN
The problem with laying out a
proiect like the Rocking Horse
(page 4) is the lack of SQuare
edges. There's noLhing 10 dimension from. That's why we
use agrid to help with the layout,

There arc a fewtricks thatcan

make using a grid easier. (If you

don't want to usc a grid, get the

Then connect the marks. H
full-size plans for the Horse ant! ~legrid is small. I use a emming
trace them. see page 24.)
square t() lightly pencil in the
ACCURAT.; .'t,\..~URME!\'1"S. titles. If the gl"id is large, 1 use a
To make the grid. first mark s!Iight board ordrywan square,
~()inl,; l' apart around the outDRAWING TItE SHAPE. Once
sid~ edges of the board you're the grid tines are drawn, the
going to cut the horse out of
shape can 00 transferred to the

OQ ONt HORIZONTAL

_ -

FROM A GRID

OIVloFINTO

BAND AT A TiME

$MALLER

INCREMENTS
-I

:ttCH ':\

CUR'ltD lINES \
tnwt!fN

X
'" GRID
UNES

POINTS

...-

STRAIGHT
UNES

DON~FlOW

CUnlNG

grid. To keep from losing my

place. Ithink of the grid as a series of her izont at "bands."
Within each band there ate
points where Ute outline inler
seers the grid, trs these points
that are transferred from the pattent to the glid.
To locale these points, r mentally divide each l"lenglh of gAd
line into fourths. This way J can
estimate the intersection points
easier. see Pig. tao
After marking tbe points, ifsa
matter of-connecting them with
n curved line. To do thi s. look at
the shape. then sketch the curve
between the points. see Fig. 2.
The outline doesn't have to
match the pattern exactly. It's
more important ihauhe finished
shape looks and feels smooth.

WEDGES

The legs on the Hocking Horse

are splayed out with wide
wedges (see page 6). To make
these wedges this wide. Istarted
with narrow wedges and glued
them together,

make the
narrow wedges, start with 8
blank the same length as you
want the wedges to end up.
Sincei needed a 10Lof wedges
for the Rocking Horse. Iglued
cu:r1llE BlANK. 1'0

together pieces of I~"thick

stock to form a blank 10" tong
and 22" wide. (Note grain direclion in Fig. 3.) The extra widUt
allows you 10 support the piece
with the miler gauge.
SE'lIIS.~w.SeUingup the $~W
to cut the wedges

takes a num-

ber of steps. firSl, place a spacer

block between the rip fence and
the blade. Then lock down the
fence so the distance from (he

~'!.n

block to the blade equals the

RdjuSI Ihe miler gauge to (it tight

againstlheworkpiece, see rtg. 2.

Cl11TlN(;WEIlIIES. After the
back the block and damp it to saw is set up. make a pass 10 esthe fence injhm! oflhe blade.
tablish the angle.The cut-off
Then put a mark on one edge piece 6'001 this first CUI is waste,
of the workpiece lhal'S half of
Then flip the blank over and
the wide end (l/ts''). see Fig. 2.
make another pass. see Fig. 3.
Now, angle the workpiece.so The cut-off from this pass is the
the mark aligns with ibe i"'idl! correctly tapered wedge. To cut
of the blade and the adjacent more wedges, continue flipping
edge touches the block. Then the piece between cuts.
It"id" e)/d of the wedge ("~" for
the horse), sec Fig. I.Now move

srr MJnR GAVG(

TO AHGt. OF IOARD

AUXiLIARY

fENCE
5PACER

stOCK

r:

8ttWliNS~~~R
al.O<:K AND
INSIDE ~i

SECOND,
lOCK DOWN
Rff 'ENCE

\.J
~

i"~
..

aw>.

No.65

SEITO
INSfD[ 01
8J.A1)'

Woodsmirh

13

JUS

FOR

KIDS

Toy Train

All the cars for this miniature railroad system start with the same basic
chassis and a unique coupling system. Then you add top pieces to produce
individual cars. And don't forget to lay some track under the train.

tsigning a lOy like this train can quickly gel OUI

01hand. The questlon you're usually faced with
iswho are you designing it for: a child 10 play with or
an arlull to build? From my experience, kids want toys
that move around. but.don't break. And they want loys
that aUowthem 10 IISC their imagination.
Adults, on the other hand. want 10 build toys lhal
look authentic (often 10 the finestdetaiO. TIle problem
is thatextremely detailed toys are usually builttosit on
a shelf, Kids would destroyrhem.
In designing this train, we tried to compromise. It
has enough detail to be interesting and not look
clunky. But at the same time, it's buill rugged so even
the youngest kid can play witll il without breaking il.
tlNIF()lt\l CHi\.'SSIS. Building each of lI)e five cars
starts lhe same - YOubuild the chassis. Then it's a
matter ofaddillg pieces so it looks like a specificcar.
Since all of the chassis are builllhe same, and interconnect witb a unique couplinll' system (refer to the
j

00

14

opposite page). this system allows lhe cars 10 be arranged in any ordertoflt the needs of the engineer.
lR,\Cl\. Arter I finished buitdilllt the train, I declded
to make some track for the train to run on. The article
on pages 18 to 19 shows how to build both straighl and
curved sectlons.I think this is where the fun begins. (f
YO\I make enough track sections. kids can use their
imaginations to build all kinds of different layouts.
MATERlJIlS. I built Lhe train and track from hard
maple. (J1 hard maple is difficult to find in your area.
we'reofferingthewcod andthe other parts to build the
train and track, see page 24.) But you could make the
entire train QuIof pine or any otherwood.
FINlSIL 111e train and track will undoubtedly gel
banged upso itmay be best tosonen allthe edges and
to leave the wood unfinished.Uycu wan! [0 finish it. I
would recommend an oil finish that flows into the tight
spots. [ the train is to be used by very small children,
use a finish that's non-toxic. seepage 24.

0
0000_

WoodS01ith

No.65

THE CHASSIS

SHOP TIP

mounted the wheels using the and a tongue on the front (Steps
bosic chaxsis (A), see below,
lip in the box at right.)
4 to 6), Laying out and cutting
\\ IIrE,-" CUI the chassis 10
t::OUPUNG,The most chal- the couplings on the first car
sur. """ dn111he holes (or the lenging pari to make is the cou- takes a little lime, But after cutuk P JlS as shown in Step I, pling, Each chassis has a hole ling Ihe first chassis, Iused itas
Mler the car was complete. I near the back end (Stells2and 3) a template (orJaying OUIthe rest.

Wh.en mounting the wheels

10 the chassis, I use a.simple

AIl 6,,, t<U'S start with Ihe same

- "~2"'_'DtA.AAU PEG H()L($

_)

:::>

.........

..,

tcchniq1.le to keep from driving the axle pegs in LOO far,

$lip" cardboard spacer between the wheel and chassis
and drive the peg in tight.
After pulling out the spacer,
the gap lefl allow. the wheel
10 spin without bindinlt,
Note: To keep the wheels
from getling: in the way while
building the car, I mounted
them q.fl~I'the other pieces

were glued to the chassis,

TAP AXI.PG
DOWHTIGKT,
THEHAEMOvt

CAA080ARD
SPA(ut

COUPLING DETAIL

,I,," DlA. X '116'"

rHl(K WHEELS

,
NOtCH
SPACER TO fIT

lACK OF CAR

AROUND AXLE
PEG

l3," OvtRAU. LtNGtH

x 1~2"
TH1Ctc A.XlE PEGS

I...... ~J8LOCKS

_.--/

PsttvlHT

OPPOSfTt

PEG FROM BEING DIt~V[N

IN

OACK (NO0'

(~SSIS8IANK

lACKING
80ARD

NOTE:
etHYlIt HOLE ON
THICKNESS OF C~ASS'S

;1f/ercILtting tne clwsllis to size, d,'UI

IIole8 JOI' aXle pegs ccnl<n'ed 011 the
'IIkknc8$, To make
the COT sits level,
J: I'e" tile toIiJace agail151Jlmeejol' (IIl/tO{.8,
,

8"".

Begin WIM,i1tg thefemale part oJtire

Next, mellli'U'. '1fJ."fl'om the
2
3
cOltpltllg Irq d.,.jJ/illfl a {I~'-dia,how
saw into hole.
cOl<plillq
CQIlWl'ea 112from. lite {lack end, Cenierth 1<, "ivot (In 011)'Ve8,(;,,1 welfge-sh/JpI,d sseCOlII."

Mut

hole on the width ofrhl! ch(t~$i8blank,

1'00.11010

tiOllS of/thelmll II/lit ?'lJl"utlwle entl'(J.llce,

LAY OUf ANGUD UN!

~O~llPaiSS
FNeE

fROM FlOUS TO

EACH lOGE ,, ____

DIME
(APPaox. :\'....DIA.
JUST fOUC'''O,$ JRONT
Of BOTH HOU5

SET f(NeE- ~."

fROM CENTER OF

afT

To 11Iket4emlese~tioll
4 plb/fl,
start try d"illill{!

o/tluicO't,
tll/O ,j/s'-dia,

,',~ I'/roy" tlie front !It,d Of 1/1 C'IIt88~

" Ik,CClItel'tilelwles 9/16'jroY/l each ed{I.,

~\). 65

template so tlwl
ToJinis"IOII!lI!e,clItj,,"t01L($teli)/e
5 itPO$itionl.dim.easa
6 with IJcbl1milsalO(YI'copillg Then
tl)uche$ the jrontedgiJ,of thsholes
(I,1I,ddrat~ arolt"d Ute tibne. Theil draw
Satll,

a nglelf lines doumfrom. holes to tlM edges,

Woodsmith

file

(I" (/'$/<lut1IP

to (he Iin. check iII.{Jt/'IJUJw

cQup/illg fit e(lsily i(){J6U",ru'1Ir,l"ivol',

15

ENGINE
Since the engine pulls the rest of the train, I
built it first. i11~chassis (A) for the engine
requires a few modifications. First, cur the
tongueoffUlcu'ontend .see Fig. 2.Then drill
anotherset of holes for the tandem wheels.
LOWEll BLOCK. Slartadding top pieces by
cutting a lower block (B) from :,,"-ul(ck
stock that's the same width as the chassis.
Then trim an lS' bevel off the fronl end and
glue lhe bl<lckto the chassis. see Fig. S.

BOILR.Next, the boiler is buill up ftom

two 1V2''-widepieces. Cutthe Io'l"thickcenter section (C) to length so the fronl end
aligns with the bevel on the lower block (B).
TIlCn cullhe>.,"thicktop section (0) 3"
long. and rou nd over the from end and sides.
see Fig. 5. Now drill holes (or the smokestack, filler caps, and headlighls. sec Figs. 1
and 5.Then glue down.the boiler parts.
CAll. Next, make the cab (E) out of a small

"'--"_5: SMOKfSTACK

rectangle of :Y4"(hickstock and drill holes

for the windows, see Fig. 4.
ROOF. The roof (1') fQr the engine, the
passenger car. and Olecaboose are all made
the same, so 1cut a blank long enough (13")
(or aU three. sec Fig. 6. To ma,kc the roof
SIOIIC,tilt Ule blade (15') and lock (he rip
fence V.I" (rom the blade. Then rip bevels off
both edges. For the engine. cut off a piece
2I<,"!ong aodglue itto the top of the cab.
SPACEM1DDl WHEt'll.-l:"

CHASSIS)

....j

FROM. (:HAS54S

~I--

<, ---

TOP BOILER

ROUND FRONt TO

ISEE fIG. Sl

SMOOlHARC

~-I

CENTER BOILER
(11')" )( ll,," JC. 41;,")

CAB
(SEt fiG. 4)

DRill ANOTH~R1..1~'"

A.XI.E NOLI ON BO'rn __.,

EDGl'S fOR TANDEM WHlEt.S

~-KN08

LOWER BLOCK

TAIMOFF

1,." ccwa,
1'" LONG

,,"

POsmON
lOWfRBlOGK

r~."It '~4"X4~:'l

.. 11lI,"ROUNQ-.OViR 8rT

3----l
1/.1."
t--'A"~
'It"

--THROUGH
aLOCK fROM

Af\lOOOWN
TO CHASSIS

BOlK sroES

ROOF BLANK

'I," HAPUGHT
HOl!

TOGElH.e~

I",.. BACK fROM

fRONT OF
CHASSIS

LOWER BLOCK ./

DIUU. :l1~
HOltS

GLUE PIEceS

~1-4-";".
RIP
.. NCE

11&"

SHOULDR

'..i,'"

THROUGH

HOLES

If,'

rnr BlADE

THROUGH

TO 1S

HOLE

SECOND: TRIM01'1'
ROOF SEalON FOR tNGtNE

COAL CAR
The coal car is the easlesuo build (and the
most fun to play with since it can be loaded
with alllYllCSof carga).It's just a box glued
to the top ofIhe ehassts (A).

,
crrr PIECllS 1'0 SIZE. Begin by resewing a and the (WO end walls (H) 10 fit between the

13"longblank !Iil'thickfor Olewalls. Then

rip this blank 1"wide.
Next. cui the Iwo side walls(G) ~Y.'''tong
END WAllS

side walls. see 1',g.7.

.'\SSE~tln.Y.Now. glue the box together.
and glue it down to the chassis. see Fig. 7.

IA" THIel(

-----

16

Woodsmith

4~~4"

---- .....
~l""-.,
No. 65

PASSENGER CAR
~ 1!l3k,' th, passenger CRr.rip :Y4'(hick long and the window block 0) 3=1'4" long.
through Ihe window block, see Fig. 9.
nmu. WINI)OW HOLES, To offer the pasROO!'. finally, cut off a 4'," length of tile
~I rthcbottomblock(l)andwindow
bIO<"k (J) 10 the same width as the chassis sengers an outstanding' view of ule passing roof stock Oeftfrom the engine. refer 10 rig.
I I "11en. ('\II the bottom bl~ck (I) 4lY.I" scenery, I drilled live %" window holes 6) and glue all tile pieces together.
COT 4-\~"\ONG
OOOf laOM BLANK

WINDOW BLOCK

MADE FOR ENGINE

WINDOW
-BLOCK

1---' (SH IIG. 91

GLUE DOWN
1~'"
FROM

-FAONJOF

CHA$5IS

DRIll. \'i"l)tA. HOLES

THROUGH BI.()(K
FROM 80TH Slo.,ES

BARREL CAR
, xi, Ibuiltabarrclcar.

Irs designed to hold

rned w(>o(!enbarrels. (See page 2'1 for
urces 01the barrels.)
R\Clt To make the barrel rack (1<), cut a
- BARRELRACKS

pieceoilIA"'lhick stock l~" wideand "I!VII;"

A.')5EMIl~Y. Now. glue the pieces to the
long. see Fig. tt, Next. drill four V'-dia.holes chassis so ihey're parallel to each other and
centered on the width.And then(ut%'wide
0/8" apart. This allows the ribs on the barrels
strips off both edges of the blank.
to rest between tha racks.
'tr'.nwt(N
INSIOIE OF RACKS

11

BARRELRACK BLANK

l/....-THICK

WASTE

STOCK

__.J

GLUEOOWN
1J.." fROM

-FRONT OF
CHASS1S

CABOOSE
\Vhal WOuldIlle end of a train be without a
.:aboose? All the parts fOI' Ihe caboose are
similar-to pieces made for the other cars,
U(I'ITO~I BLOCK.Startby cutting a bottom
hlock(L) the same size es onthe passenger
car and glue it to the chassis. see Flg.12.
\\l:<i)()w~EcnON.The window section
(M) on the caboose is a little narrower (Ill.!"
wide) and longer (4:Va" long) than 011 the
passenger car. And there are only four windows on the caboose, sec Fig. 12a.
<All. Next, CUl the cab (N) and drill the
..indow holes in it. All the dimensions are
thesame as (he cab on theengine except this
enh i~
only I'll" wide 10 match the window
...'CIion.
ROOF. r"nally,cutthree rootsectionsfrom
the roofblank (F) madeforthecogine (refer
10 Fig. 6), and glue them on top of the
caboose. see Fig. J 2.

'".65

12

CAB@

f~"'''X 11,'1- x

11,,\".

CUTTWO [ .. LONG
-ROOF

PICis

..-- WINDOW SECTION

(~4")t 11n'! x 4);t")

WINDOW DETAIL

BOTTOM BLOCK
(~'
.." "- 1~." X4~;4")

\Voodsmith

17

Train Track
A good way to start is to make ~ight
straight sections ~'I.)and eight curved secThe train can operate On its own, or you Can tions (B). (EighrcuI'Vesare needed to make
make a track for it. By making both curved a complete circle.) This makes a good size
WIdstraightsectionsoftrack, YOIlcan create layout, and you can add more sections later
a wide variety of interesting layouts.
<as long as the government approves your

PREP_RING STOCK

CURVED TllACK

2
ClAMP~NGLtOf22'n)
SToP BlOCK TO
AUXILIARY

'ENC(~

NOTE:
All StOCK
I,,!" THICK

CUnlNG

THE CURVES

After the miters are Cut on the ends ufaH the

curve blanks (B). you can set up to cut the
inside and outside arcs.
PIVOT JIG. To accurately cut the outside
arcs, I made a pivot jig that sits on top of the
band saw. Begin making the jig by cutting.
14" x 18" pivot board from a piece of V."
plywood or Masonite.see Fig. 3,

merger with another railroad line),

cvr IUANKS. Begin making the track by
culling blanks from 1'2" stock for the
straights (A) and curves (8), $ee Fig. I.
~llTER CURVES.Before cutting the curve
pieces (8) to their rounded shape. I mitered
the ends ofthe blanks. see Fig. 2.
To do this, attach an auxiliary
fencte to the miter gauge and set
the miter liduge at 22Vl. Then
miter (me end of all the blanks,
To set up tocut the other end,
tum one of the blanks end-forend and clampastop block to tile
auxiliary fence, see Fig. 2.Adjust
Ihe stop to trim oft the blank so
it's l07/i1"long on the shortslde,
\
SfT MlltA
see Fig.!. Then cut all the curve
GAUOE AT 2:2:"".
blanks (B) to lhis length.

Next. drill. I-ll" pivot hole centered on the

width of tile board and I" [rom the end. To
help position the blanks on the jig. nail a
I071fj"longtenceto thejig so thejin'edge of
the fence is 12v.."from the pivot hole.
Now set one of the curve blanks on I,Qpo{
the jig and align the ends-of the blank with
tile fence, seeFig, 4. Drive small nails atboth
ends 9f the blank to
holdit in place.
USING 11tEJIG, To
cut the outside
curve. I set the jig on
top of my circle jig
(see Woor(!1!iIIlNo.
51). Or,just clamp a
piece of:v.."plywood

you use the plywood base board. drive a nail

through the hole in the pivot board and into
the baseboard. (BesureloaJign thenailwith
the front edge of the blade.)
\Vith a Curve blank in place On the jig,
swing the pivotboard through the blade and
cut o(flhe outside arc of the curve, see fig.
4. (Save the waste piece from the end of the
pivot board, It's used On the next step.)
c;lltINS1D); ARt'S. After cuttinglhe outside
arcs on all the curved pieces and sanding of(
the tooth marks, you can cmt the inside arc s,
To do this I used the curved waste piece
(that was cut o(f the end of the pivot board)
as a fence. sec Fig, 5. Posidon the curved
piece 2%" from the inside ofthe blade. (This
will cut a curve section VIS"oversize. After
to your band saw sanding, the curves should end IIp~\e same
table. S('e fig. 4.
width as the straights- 2:tt6".)
If you're using-the
Go ahead and cut all the curve sections to
circle jig. position width.Then sand theinsldeedge (removing
the pivot poinl16"
at least V16'~so the curved sections match
[rom the blade, If the width of the straightsecuons,

rRACKa~K

CUT INSIDE ~~
I

ctAMP CUAVEO
FENCE 2.~."
fRQMlLAD

CtAMP ~... PlYWOOD BASe

CJRCLJIG TO aAND SAW

18

W@0<.1snlith

No. 65

RABBEnlNG

EDGES AND ENDS

To pro'idc:-. path for Ihe train's wheels to

track. refer to photo below.

~1lI. rabbets are cut on both edges of ihe
To set up (or culling these rabbets. first
lr.ICk. To do this. raise a ~" rabbet bit ~" mount a IlVJ6"wide dado blade on the saw
..bc,vr the router table. Then rout the top and auach an auxiliary fence to therip fence,
~.,.oiall
track pieces. see Fig. 6.
see FiEt, 7a. Then bury the blade into the
P.II RA8Kf:l'S.Next, to join thesectionsof
auxiliary fence so 0/4' is exposed,
II'I><'It together. connectors are made that fit
Now raise the blade up to cut a rabbet
exactly
deep enough to align with the botWl<f<orrabbets that are cut in the ends o( the

10m of the rabbets on tile edges, see Fig. 7.

After the saw was SCIup, I rabbeted both
ends oitlle straight track W USinga miter
gauge to support the workpiece.
On the curved track (B), I backed up the
workpiece with curved push blocks. see Fig.
8. (To. make the blocks. trace the shape of
the curved track onto plywood.)

8
....00

BlAD.

D
(UTtO

MATCH
CU$tVE -e'_.-"
ON
TRACK

CONVEX
PUSH ILOCK

'T-n--;

CON'-AV1
PUSH BLOCK

CONNECTORS
Join the pieces of track together. small
",n,,<,!01'Sare made. These connectors are
'wll rectangles ot Masonit~ thai fit under
t", end rabbets in the track, see photo at
;!ilLThere arc two dowels in each connecor 10 fit in holes in the track.
UJI-N.EcroRs. Stan making the connector'S (C) by cutting small rectangles of 11.1"
ick Masonite the same width as tile track
1:' 1""). see Fig. 9. As (or the length of the
onnecrors. they're trimmed down so
"1're Vt6"less than the distance between
., rabbets on the ends ofthe track pieces.
111, makes it easier for small fingers tQ as"''I!Ible the track pieces.
~E'rt'p H'R ORILUNG. Next, set up the drill
, -ess to drill :Va" holes in the connectors and
~"traCk. To dothis, make a holding fence
b) nailing two stop blocks 10a piece of2x4.
Position the blocks so the connector fits
nugly between the stops, see Fig. 10,
'\fowclamp the 2x4to the drill press table
" 3 fence, Position the fence so the bit is

CONNECTOR

.I.- HOLE..
), ... OEtP

[),

),." OOWtt.
\," LONG

centered between the stol> blocks, and the

fence is %" from the point of the bit.
ORlLLTliECO)''NECI'ORS.Now drill %"dia.
holes, ~6' decpon both edgesoftheconnectors (C), see Pig. 10. When drilling, push the
connector tight against the fence.
ORlL.LTIIE TRACK.To drill the ni.tehing
holes in the track. usc the same set-up, except you have to add a 4"thick spacer to iii
under the rabbet in the end of the track, sec
Fig. 11. The trick here is to cut the spacer
1i6" wide (which is VI~" wider than the
length ofthe rabbet Onthe end of the track).
Wben thetrack is pushed against the spacer.
(he hole will be positioned to create a gap
between the ends o( the track. (Again, this is
to make iteasier to assemble.)
DOWELPII'o'S.The last step in making the
connectors is tocut W'long dowels and glue
them into the holes in the connectors, see
Fig. 9.
TRACKSllAPES.
The track can be layed out
in a variety of shapes, especially if more

_,

10

pieces are added. However, one layou;

mighl cause a problem. Ifyou make a sharp
"5"shape, the irain'scars will probably bind
when going through lhe "double-twist"
curve. To prevent binding, add a straight
section as a transition between the two C
cl<ruesthat tum in opposite directions,

11

./

SAME
DRfLLPRfSS

((Nit.
>lOW
ON

SmlNGAS
fiG. 10

WlOTH

TACK STOP
8\ocl(S
TOffNCE
;t~6
APARt

-.

~," fROM

POINT Of! elT

TO FtNC

TAAC1<

SKTfON

PUSH

SHOUl.D(R

0, RAaen UP

liGHt

65

Woodsmitb

ro SPACER

19

G 1F T

PROJECT

Oval Box
The beauty of this oval box is the beveled,eclge mirror
that inspired it. The challenge was to figure out a way co make
the box fit the exact shape of the mirror.

vals are ple'asing shapes - bUI very

difficult to draw. When Idecided 10
make an oval box. I bad rwo choices.! could
get all oval template from all art Sl()re. Or. I
could trace something that already had an
oval shape.
The choice was easy when I ran across a
source (or a beauti(ul beveled-edge oval mirror. seesoerceson ]lIlll~24. Wilh the mirror
in hand.I made an oval box that matched its
shape. 'lnis involves making a template to
cuta recess in the lid for the mirror. While I
was at it.I used the same template to rout a
malching oval recess ill the base.
Design Note: If you don't want to use (he
mirror. but still want to make a box with an
oval recessinthe base.just gel an oval templaiefrom an artstore and trace the shape On
a piece or ~I"Masonite. Then cut it out and
sand it as shown in Slep 8 on the next page,
There's another option. too. You can
make a rectangular box On the outside and

20

only rout the oval inside the base.Thisgives

~I!\RK~IIRROR.Now you can uSClhefolds
yOUa few more options (or adding a !:Dlving in the paper to mark the points where the
or inlay to the lid or the box.'
. axis lines meet the edge of the mirror. see

MAKING THE TEMPLATE

Okay, back to the mirror and template. Til
make atemplate to rout a recess for themirror, the first step is to trace the shape or the
mirror on a piece o( paper, see Step 1.
FOW ON AXES. In order to align the oval
shape on a template.you have to determine
the two axes of the oval.There's a neat trick
to do this, JUSt hold the paper up to a light.
sec Step 2. '11'l~Iighl allows you to see the
oval curve on both Sides or the paper, Adjust
the paperuntil the curves align, and (old the
sheet in half.
The (old linc indicates one axisofthe oval.
Fold thesheetin halflheothel'way to get the
other axis, (Ihese axis lilies are particularly
important tor aligning the oval in a reetangular box.)
Woot.1smirh

Step 3.
tAy OlIT TEMPI_lJE .... Jter marking' the
axis lines en tbe mirror. the template can be
cut (rolll a piece of 14" Masonite. (The template shown in Step 4 is sized to accept the
ovalrnirror.)
After <,utting the template to size. mark
two cross lines. see Step 4. Now align the
marks on the edge o( the mirror with the
cross lines on the template, see Step 5. To
hold the mirror steady, use" pieceotdoublesided carpet tape to attach uto the template.
GUIDE BUSHING

The idea or alllhis is 10usc the oval shape of

the mirror to make a guide template ror a
router. This template is then used ,villl a
guide bl~.hillgthat's mounted to the base o(
the router, see Step 6.

No. 65

Almost all router manufacturers offer a

guide bushing (or template guide) that fits
on the base.of their router. This guide bushing extends below the base of the router so
it can nib againsttheedge of a template. The
idea is for the guide bushing to follow uie
shape or the t~mplatc while the router bit
(that fits inside the guide bushing) actually
does the cutting.
There's one consideration here, The
router bit cuts a path that's i,(si<le the edge
of the bushing. 1 used a standard bushing
wilh an outer diameter ofIl16".Thls bushing
fits around a ~" straight bit. Thus. the bit
will cut :;~:?:" from the outside (ldge of the

bushing, see Detail ill Stept;.

(f you want an ."(lct fit. make the template
~"Iargerth.n
the mlrror.However.l made
the template !/s" larger than the mirror. This
creates a I>:rl' space areund the edge 01 the
mirror to allow for expansion of lhe wood
around the mirror. see SICP 7.
Shop Note: I used a piece of cardboard to
trace the line va" outside the perimeter of
the mirror. See $hbp Notes On page 12 for
more on this technique.
cm-ro SIIAPE. To complete the template,
cut out the inside to rough shape with either
sabre saw or a coping saw, Then sand the
edges smooth right up to the marked line

with a dl1l111 sander mounted iu your drill

press, see Step 8.
INDEX HOI.ES. This template will be
mounted to the lid, and then to the base to
routouttheoval shape. Toalign thetemplate
on both pleces.l drilled tWOIG" index holes.
seeStep9. These holes are also used taterto
locate and drill holes in the lid and base for
indc~ pins to keep the lid from slidingoffthe
base. refer to Fil!. 14.
FlNtSH.lfinished (he lid andtheoutsideof
the oval box with General l~nish~' TwoStep Sealacell system. After finishing, 1
added a piece of felt to UI., inside bottom of
tile box.

NOTE:
HOlD

MI O.
ON

'UT

np

FOLD
PAP~
INTO
QUARTIRS

~'N

TRACING
PAPER

TRACE

AUGN

AROUND

MIRROR

PERIMETER
OF MIRROR.

wmtTAACEO

OllTUNE

("qatl! tll I,Q/Wra tl(/I'('(I/ign mirro:

To civlel'm,iJleIII.t"OIUI'. 0111" (11111/.
01)tiudl'QClldllllllillr.
Thru lI~raJN,1
hold poPCo"'pto II ti{lM (",il ulig>l Iltl!
llap .. .Then tmce ((1'OlIllIlIlw 1)/1>'i",ele>'of (unes, Tltt" fold 1)("I~ri/I half to flBI olle til) p~1Ito mark: wl,ere tl!(J a:r.is lilies I(mrl!

1'0 "wk" /I t~1II.p11"I!/OI'(UI 1)""/ mil"

ror. IffY th mirror nl' (I :,!,e-et tV

the ))firro;'loith

(l

$)~(1i'Ppenci],

(I.ri s, Fold it t/teollwl'

IVlI

yf<wlheolltel'lI.ci s.

III~ edgeoflhc minol.

1,."

DQUII.!
$(O[D

"leo"0.0.
GUIDE
aUSJ.lING"

STRAIGH't

tIT

(AlPEr
TAPE

1>-P~=K/

oJ),"
OFFSET

~,'

BIT

ALIGN MARKS
ON MlRRO.-

V4-THtCK
M,A,SONITE

WITM CENTtR UNES

is madeouui] pieceof
To (,Iign the min'!),' <In tile template,
Tlte template hO$ to lie sized to take
4 ThfUllllp/aie
5
6
VI' MlUionUe. Cl(t it to ~iz6(6V~"10>19
>Iwj,clllile ?>1((i'ks IIw edge oj'the
'>1M
'li.ITel'enre between
by -I Vt' wi,ui tmd u.e a 8qllO 1'6to
cen011

dl~lI(1

terline in IlOtli direction.

min'O" to We eenterlines: Hold IIw mit'I'O"

<loumwithll7)iece ofdoublelriifed tape.

,'

(Let-O!IIII tne

the Ollt.ide din >IIet61'<Iffile /m.,11 i>lg IlIIa lite

o"l.id~ <li{l/)I~tel'f)ftlu' bit (.y~,.).
o

FINISN SANDING

D."

UP TO UNE WITH
.. UM .SA

TlACr
AROllND
PERIMETtR
OF MIRROR

DRill lWO ;1."

INDEXrNG HOLES

USB
7 li>lB

II PWC4

<If C(/J'dboo,'dto frClCB a

f/~"o,Wn,u Ihe perimeter

of the

minor. (1f,~'f\ilo",S"I.n" fa>, tli b1Lskin9

pl'tts V$<~l"a)'Ou"lut mirrorfor eX'l'(' 1l.s1ml..)

No. 65

Gllt (I.)'Ol<Iultlw ';milll' f)iJ.imeUlr of

To ltllthe (,(mt.plat~,dJ'ili -Y'8-dia.

lIIith a sab"e sow QI'
index hol.es OI./lOlk lind. of the lOllY
clf)ing .~(tW.Tnen. sa,,,,l cQTefi'Uy '''P to the a~is.
Gente)' the i1ldl1>.hole. "1,."1>'0'" the
edge oj'tlle<nlClI hole.
line with (La"I'''' 8(L1I<l6).

8 ttie temp/ate

Woodsmith

Zl

r
PREPARE THE BLANKS
I slatted building the box by cutting a blank
for the lid (1\) from ~" stock to match the
size oC the template, see Fig, 1, The base is
made by gluing ijp two pieces a :v.1"thid<
base (B), and a ~"t:hick bottom (C).
Shop Note: [fyoucan find 6/4 stock (that
is 1!V16" thick), you can cut the base out of a
solid piece ratherthan laminating twopieces
together, (See Sources, page 24,)
lAMINATE. If you have to laminate two
pieces to get the thick base. cut both pieces
a little oversize, Then glue them together.
WheD me glue is dry, trim the edges down
to final size,
MMIl< PIECf,s, BeCOreproceeding. I sandwiched the template between the lid and the
base blank, see Fig. 2. Then] drew a carpenter's triangle onthe end ofthis assembly.
This triangle helps align the pieces when
drilling the holes for Ille alignment pins.
refer to Figs, 3 and 4.

,("1
~,!,

BAse

ALIGN lOGES
OFAUP1K6'

MAAK END WrTH

CAJtPfNltA'S
TRIANGU

BJ.ANK
'A"

@~.

NOTE:

BOTTOM,
BJ.ANK ....

Gl.Ut AND ClAMP

aonoM TO &ASE

DRILL INDEX HOLES

The next step is to drill holes in the lid and
base Ior the indexing pins.
HOLES '1'1 uo. Start by lifting the lid and
template off the base, Then Bip these two
pieces over so the templale is facing' up and
lape them together. see Fig, 3.
Now with :.6"-dia. bil, drill holes I'.'l"
deep into the lid at.each end USingthe holes
in the template as a guide.
HOl.ES IN BASE. Repeal this procedure on
the base.Justptace the template On the base
so the sides of the carpenter's triangle ali!,,,"
properly, SL>C Pig, <I.

ltMPLArE

"

OR....
3,-'0" ttOU!

USE
MASkiNG TAPE'
fO KElP PflCl,$
ALIGNEP WHll
DRaWNG HOLES

A14GN Slots

OF TftlANGl.I

I." DO'

lRJANG~
INUPWAlto
POsmON

TtMPLATl

ROUT RECESS
The index holes are used first to align the
template to the lid to rout a recess Cor the
mirror, see Fig, 5, Tap index dowels ~t6'"
dia) into the holes, butdon'tglue them in.
ROllI'UD RCf.$, To rout out the recess
in the tid, use a 11.1"straight bit and R 1/,0;"
guide bushing, Set the bit deep enough so

1NDEXING
PJNSMUSl

SETBilOW
TOP OF

will be 6ush with the

edge of the lid (about a :VJ2"deeprecess).
Remove the waste by plunging the router
into the center of the lid and moving it in a
clockwise pattern until you reach UlC perimeter ofthc template. see fig,S.
When you're done, there should be 3%2"
the (ace of the mirror

wide lip inside the edge of the template. see

Fig. 6, The mirror should fit inside lhis lip

with about 10:32"
space all around.
ROllf S,ISF.,Next rout out the base of the
box the same way, but to a depth of 1".1 did
this by making a series of passes about V.,"
deep each lime, see fig. 7.

a(c-ss
INllO
~~l"'WU>E
UP -

TEMPLATE

NOTE:
TO-CUT FUll
OPTHMAK
S'EVERAl PASS{.S

22

Woodsmith

No. 65

SHAPE OUTSIDE OF OVAL

Allhi~ polm, the inside of the box is
complete. The next step is to shape the outside of the box to an oval shape as well.
"fR.,\CEOVAL.
Theprocedureisto layoutan
oval ,.bape on the outside of the box a little
latglir than the inside oval, To 00 this, Iused
a compass to trace the shape of Ihe oval on
the lid. Set the compass points !Y$" apart.

Then place tile point of Ihe compass in Ihe

recessed oval in the lid and trace the shape.
see Fig. S.
C1.1I'UD 1"0 SlltlPF.. Now CUI the lid 10
rough shape on a band saw and sand it carefully right up 10 the line with a drum sander
or on a bell sander,
cur Il~S.1"OSHAPE.Afler 'landing the lid

10shape. place ilon the base using the index

pins to align the lWOpieces, see Fig. 9. Now
usethe lid asa templateto trace tlre oval onto
the base. and Cui it out 10 rough shape on a
band saw,
S."NIITOUNE. To gel the base 10 the same
shape as the lid. sand them together with a
drum sander oren a bell sander. see Fig. to.

10

9
SIT

POINTS

~,

APAftr

(
SETUD
ONA

ONTO
AtlGN "X" MA~j(S
ON UD AND SASE

STArJONARY
&ElT SANDEa

lIAS'

SHADOW LINE AND EDGE PROFILES

111e oval box is complete ar thls point excepI for rouLing profiles on the LOPedge of
the Iid and the bouorn edge of the base.
SHAI}OWLINE. However. before I did that.
I added a shadow line between the lid and
the base. IfeiLherpiccc warps. this line adds
enough depth So the crack between the tid
and base is nOlSOvisible.
AUXIUARVFENCE.T" rouL this shadow
line. mount a itl" slrajllht blt to the router
table and set the bit h2" high. see rig. na.
Then Iclamped an auxiliary fence (a piece of
:v.t" plywood) (0 thefront of the router table's
regular fence.
Now 111m01\ tile router-and slide the auxiliary fenceinto the bit to rout an opening the
width of the bit.
To reut theshadow line, tum the routerou
and adjust the fence so the bit extends h2"
out. see Fig. lla. Then roul a rabbet on the
tol' out8ide .dge of the base only to produce
the shadow line. refer loYig. 14a.
~OUNO OVllR 1111510
00. After rOulin!!
the shadow line. 1 switched to a \/,j" roundover bit and rounded the inside edge of the
base, see Fig. 12.
OImJUF.I'ROAt.S.11lC outside edges of
the base.and the lid can be routed to several
shapes. [ used a 1At" round-over bit. to
achieve a simple and graceful look. (Before
USing other bits, check rhat their profiles
won't curinto Ihe holes for the index pins.)
INDEl<PINS. Mer Ule edges are routed, I
cut rwo new index Pi.os to fit Ute holes in the
base. see Fig. t 4a.
GLUE ~UI1ROR..Before finishing the box.
mount the mirror into the recess in the lid
using a silicone sealant.I also added a piece
offeillo the.inside bottom ortlle box and felt
dots 10the outside bottom of the box.

No.6;

11

a.
AUX.

fENCE __

~,,,

12

If."

ROUN,O
OV~Ran

~
STRAIGHT
BIT

13
ROUT PItO'ILf

ONlOP O~UD
ANt> ao'nOM
OF eASt

.-

14

.
~

.....

_~a.

CROSS SECTION
CHAMftR TOP
roGEOF PfNS

StUCONE
SAlANT

fLT

GLUt ~."

lNTO

OOWlLS

lASt HOltS AS

INDEX PJN,S

~(LT
I?AO

-~
\,
Woodsmith

23

SUPPLIES

PROJECT

(]

Sources
ROCKING HORSE

~Voodsmith Proleet Supplies

is offering a full-size pattern and
the hardware needed 10 build
tile Rockiog Horse shown in this
issue. 'l'h~pattern provides cutting diagrams for all wood and
leather parts including instructlons on (onningthe leatherinlO
the saddle and addi'!l(tllt) bridle.
765-150 ROCkingHorse
Pattern
$7.95
.765-100 Rocking Horse pattern \'V. Hardware KiL.,...$-19.95
(I) Full Size Pattern
(25) I" Nails (Ovalhead. Stainless Steel. Spiral-Shank)
(25) :1'4" Staples to attach the
mane and tail
(2) Craft Glass Eyes (brown),
24mm dia, (approx, t")
(1 Skein) 4-Ply Yarn (brown)
(20) #8 xlv.." Screws
(16) #8 x 2"~ews
(:l2) %" Wopd PI ugs (or
Screw Holes
(1) Pre-Cul Leather Saddle
(2) Pre-Cut Leather Ears
(I) I" x 18" leather Cinch

Strap
(t) ~l"x 7'2" Leather Bridle

Stl'llP
(2) I" di a. Nickle-plated
O-rings For Bridle
(2) I" x 10" Dowels
Other suppliers (or the
leather-and craft. glass eyes are
listed below. Look for code Rl!
following their address.

TOY TRAIN
\Voodsmilb Project Supplies

is offering the materials and finish on the Toy Train and

hardware needed to build the Track project. Ordinarily. I like
flve-car'Toy'Traln and Track rea- to use a salad bowl finish OJlIOY
projects, bru (or the train I di:;tured in this issue.
Other suppliers who carry toy covered this finish was just 100
train partsare listed belQw.Look thick 10 se~f!in and around all
(or the code 7'1' (ollowing the the small parts of the train. Insupplier's name.
stead. we used a finish called
.765-200 Flve-CarTraln,
Preserve NULOil and found illO
Parts Only
$6.95
bean ideal Iinishforfhe train set.
The kil above includes all the
Preserve is a blend of natural
parts (bill no lumber) needed 10 oils (rom exotic nut meats and
build five train cars:
provides an excellent. non-toxic
(22) I !!.til x 7/16" Wheels
finish (or toys as well as bowls
(24) II." Wlleel Axle Pegs
81ld wooden kitchen utenslls.
(1) %" x I 1ft' Smoke Stack
There are other finishes ~lal
will
also provide a non-toxic fin(tenon filS v.," hole)
ish and are still thin enough to
(1) 11.1" Dia. Dowel. 6" long
(4) Oil Barrels
now over the small train parts.
.765225 Five-CarTrain,
TwoOflhese-Generall'inishes'
Parts & Lumber
$18.95 Two-Step Sealaeell System and
11lis kit contains all the parts \ValCo's Danish Oil - arc both
listed above. plus the lumber non-toxic when "<'tired: (Accord
(maple) to make five cars:
ing to their manufacturers, this
(1 pc.) 3~." x 17"::!f.j"lhick
can take from IWO 10 (ourwceks.)
(2,pt"$.)3iY.,1I x 17": ~".thick
Non-toxic finishes for the toy
(I pc.) I'r.!" x lll": 1I."lhick
train project are available (rom
.765-250Train Track Part,
\Voodsmith ProjectSupplies.
.& Lumber
$39.95 orfrom the SOurces listed below.
This ki t contai llS enough
Look (or me code NT (oliowillJ(
maple to produce eight curved thesupplier'sname.
and eight straight track sections. 0765-275 Preserve NUl Oi.1
(81)<'5.) :WIG" x 12'; 'r.!"-thick
Flnish, 8-oz
$8.95
(8 pcs.) 4" x 15"; II.!"-lhick
51j!..203Generall'inish",,'
(16 pcs.) ~16"xlYI6" Ma- Two-Step System
$10.95
l>'l Pint Step Ifl (Sealer)
sonae; 114"-\hick
(2) :Vs" x 12" Dowels
~ Pint Step "2 (Finish Coal)

ORDER INFORMATION
BT MAIL
To order by mail. U$~I"" form
on the protective cover of $ current issue or write your order
on a piece of paper. and send il
with your check or money
order. (Please include $1.50
shipping charge with each
order.) IA residents add 4%
Sales la-x. Sendorder Ill:
Woodsmith ProjectSupplies
P.O. Box 10350
Des Moines, IA 5'0806

24

NONtOXIC FINISHES
You will want to use a non-toxic

ALTERNATE CATALOG SOURCES

BY PHONE
For faster: service use our"1'911

Free order line, Phone orders

can be placedMonday through
Friday. 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM

csr.

Before you call. have your

VISA or Master Card ready.

1800.4447002
AIJow,~

OVAL BOX
The materials needed 10 build
the Oval Box am available (rom
\Voodsmith ProjeetSupplies.
The oval mirror and silicone
sealantcan be ordered using the
numbers below'. (We recommend using Dow's silicone sealant to attach the mirrors since
some other silicones may damage the silvered backs)
765300 (1) 3" x 5" Beveled
Oval Min'Or
$5.115
0765-305 (3-0z.tube) Dow
Silicone Sealant (enough to altach 8() to 100 mirrors) ... $3.29
Also available are lumber kits
in your choice of several differenc hardwood .species, Each kit
includes the followingilcOls:
(1 pc.) 4~" x 6I;'i'; "'l"thick
lumber (to make the lid)
(1pc.) 4~"x 61'2"; t'Vu;"thick
lumber (to make the base)
(l) :VI6" Dowel. 4" long
'765310 Oval6Qx. Kit of
Lumber - Oak
$7_95
765320 Oval Box. Kit of
I,.umber- Wainul .........$8.95
765-330 Oval Box. Kit 01
Lumber- Cherry ......... 58.95
0765-340 Oval Box. Kit of
Lumber- Padauk ......,.$12.95
(Padauk is an exotic, redorange hardwood that turns
deep maroon on exposure to
sunlight, Padauk's sawdust can
be irritaling. so using a dustmask is advised.)

(Q Ii looeJ,:t1/oJ'(if'/foo'71.
;Vri/.f>: 1-"'4'ct!J *~(bier.tto cJla.1!g(!
"jl.,' 9/90.

Simiim/w1'(J.wa.'II a>ld SIIp/JUes nuty bejm,.td

in lite j'ol/m/li?IU catlliogs. Htnseuer st!lies a11dllizes ?)W,IIvary.

PIdJ.se,-e!el'to eackc(J.ia/t:lufol' orde"i"U ;>lfn)'mati.m~

Van Dyke's Restorers
Cherry Tree Toys, Inc.
P.O. Box 278
Woonsccket, SO 57385 ....... Rli

P.O. Box 369

Belmont, OR 43718 ....... T'T, NT
Tandy Leather
\Voodcrafl Supply
1'.0. Box 791
P.O. Box 1686
Fort \Vorrn. TX76101 ...." .... 8H Parkersburg. \VV26102.T1. NT
Sbopmith, Inc.
Bridge City Toot Works
393lltnage Drive
1104 N.E. 28th. Ave.
Dayton. OH 45414..........T1~ NT Portland. OR 97232
NT

Woodsmith

No. 65