1.

Formal Shirt Operation Breakdown with SMV Details

2. Casual Shirt
3. Formal Trouser
4. Casual Trouser
5. Formal Jacket
6. Casual Jackets
7. Womens Top
8. Denim

Operation Breakdown and SAM of the Full Sleeve Formal Mens Shirt
Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar
2031

Prior to defining SAM of the garment, detailed operation breakdown is made by engineer. Both manual and machine operations are included in the operation
list. Then a skilled operator is given to do operations one by one. 5 to 10 samples are studied. All
operations are studied by GSD expert for motion analysis. At the same time all operations are
videoed for future reference. Calculated SAM of the operations for a Formal Shirt has been
shown in the following table. This has been defined by a GSD practitioner of a large size Indian
garment export company using GSD software. The following SAM of each individual operation
will help to understand how a shirts SAM reach up to a certain value. The SAM of the operation
may vary according to the changes styling of the shirts, seam length, attachment and work aids
used, motion sequence used by the operator and machine type.

Product: Full Sleeve Mens Formal Shirt. Brand: Arrow

Total Garment SAM: 22.32 minutes.
Sl.
No.
1

Operation List

SAM

Pinning to profile

0.234

Run stitch collar

0.219

Trim collar

0.285

Clip and turn collar

0.223

Crease collar

0.381

Top stitch collar

0.42

Run stitch (R/s) collar band

0.291

Crease collar band

0.317

Insert collar in neck band

0.799

10

Turn and crease collar

0.452

11

Attach bias piece to cuff

0.874

12

Crease cuff

0.458

13

Hem cuff

0.501

14

R/s cuff

0.565

15

Trim cuff

0.36

16

Turn cuff

0.527

17

Crease cuff bottom

0.566

18

Attach placket to sleeve

0.795

19

Lock and make diamond

1.026

20

Sew pleats (4 no.)

0.389

21

Hem right front

0.494

22

Attach front placket

0.603

23

Crease pocket

0.542

24

Hem pocket mouth

0.28

25

Attach pocket to front

0.861

26

Attach brand label and tack loop

0.589

27

Crease patch pieces

0.236

28

Attach patch piece

0.333

29

Sew pleats

0.278

30

Attach yoke to back

0.475

31

Top stitch back yoke

0.365

32

Join shoulder

0.64

33

Top stitch shoulder

0.656

34

Attach collar

0.535

35

Close collar with size label

1.01

36

Sleeve attach

0.862

37

Top stitch armhole

0.678

38

Top stitch side seam

1.036

39

Attach & close cuff

0.696

40

Top stitch cuff

0.524

41

Hem bottom

0.947

Total SAM

22.322

Operation Breakdown and SMV of a Trouser

Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar
2729
The operation breakdown of a trouser with two front pocket and two back pocket has been given
in the following table. SMVs mentioned here against each operation are just for your reference.
It may vary according to machine types, workstation layout and equipment used. Operations
needed to make a trouser have been listed section wise. Machines that are used for the operations
have been also mentioned in the table.

Trouser

Table 1: Operation Breakdown Chart

Operation Breakdown and SMV of a Trouser
Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar
2729

The operation breakdown of a trouser with two front pocket and two back pocket has been given
in the following table. SMVs mentioned here against each operation are just for your reference.
It may vary according to machine types, workstation layout and equipment used. Operations
needed to make a trouser have been listed section wise. Machines that are used for the operations
have been also mentioned in the table.
Trouser
Table 1: Operation Breakdown Chart
Table 2: Abbreviation of machine name

Table 2: Abbreviation of machine name

Operation Breakdown and SMVs of a Basic Jeans

Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar
2339
Operation breakdown of a 5 Pocket Basic Jeans is listed in this article. SMVs mentioned here
against each operation are just for your reference. SMVs may vary according to machine types,
workstation layout and equipment used.
Some of operations are done by automatic machines, like auto pocket hemming (APH), auto
pocket attaching (APS) etc. Machines that are used for the operations have been mentioned in
third column (M/c type) of the following table.
This Operation Breakdown has been taken from a Jeans manufacturing company in Vietnam.

5-Pocket Basic Jeans

Table 1: Operation Breakdown Chart
Sl.
no.

Operations

M/C Type

SMV

Back
1

pocket hemming

APH

0.07

pocket o/l

3T O/L

0.3

pocket creasing

ADPC

0.4

pocket attaching

APS

0.74

second stitch @ back pocket

SNLS

0.65

back yoke attach

FOA

0.41

back rise join

FOA

0.24

size label attach

SNLS

0.2

coin pocket hemming

APH

0.015

10

coin pocket attach @ jet piece (right)

SNLS

0.2

11

pocket bag attach with jet piece

5T F/L

0.42

12

o/l @ pocket bag

3T O/L

0.68

Front Section

13

top stitch @ pocket bag

SNLS

0.4

14

o/l @ zipper fly

4T O/L

0.3

15

o/l front panels @ crotch

3T O/L

0.26

16

zipper attach @ left fly

DNLS

0.32

17

SNLS

0.34

18

left fly attach @ front panel (inseam &

top stitch)
J-stitch @ left fly

APJ

0.58

19

front pocket mouth hemming

DNFPH

0.3

20

pocket bag stitch to front panel @side

& top (wt w/c label@lt.)

SNLS

0.46

21

right fly attach with zipper & crotch join

SNLS

0.25

Assembly

22

loop preparation

3T F/L

0.15

23

main label attach @ waist band, & w/b

joining in chain
top stitch @ inseam

SNLS

0.3

FOA

0.55

5T O/L

0.65

26

side seam join (attach front & back

panels)
top stitch @ side seam

SNLS

0.38

27

waist band stitch

WBAM

0.38

28

waist band corners finish

SNLS

0.72

29

loop attach

ABLA

0.65

30

bottom hemming

BHM

0.33

24
25

Total
11.65

Full form of sewing machine name

APH - Automatic pocket hemming machine
ADPc - Automatic pockect creasin gmachine
APc - Auto pocket stitching machine
SNLS - Single needle lock stitch
FOA - Feed of the arm
3TO/L - 3 thread overlock (overedge)

5TF/L - 5 thread flat lock (cover stitch)

4TO/L - 4 thread over lock
5TO/L - 5 thread over lock
DNLS - Double neeedle lock stitch
3TF/L - 3 thread flat lock (cover stitch)
APJ - Auto J-stitch making
DNFPH - Double needle front pocket hemming
WBAM - Waistband attach machine
ABLA - Auto loop attach
BHM - Bottom hemming machine
(Note: Some of the machine names are short form of machine used for the specific operation
used by a company. Other companies may name it different way)

Sewing Process Flow Chart for Crew neck T-Shirt

Topics: Apparel Production By: Prasanta Sarkar
3241

It is always easier to understand a picture than just description. How to make a T-shirt can be
explained many times but students learnt it completely when they see it in the production floor. A
process flow chart gives them the logic how operations follow sequence one after another.
A sewing process flow chart has been depicted in the following figure to guide learners how a T
shirt is being made in a bulk production system. It is assumed that T shirt has neck tape (self bias
tape). The process flow is also showing the sequence of operations that is generally being
followed. Some factory may have a slightly varied sequence.
A crew neck T shirt has six components Front, Back, Neck rib or Collar, Neck tape and two
sleeves. In the figure, on the top four sections of the garment component have been shown. The
arrows show the flow of operations and inside the red circles operation sequence number and
name of the operations has been written.
Figure:Sewing Process flow for T-Shirt

Operation Breakdown, Sewing Thread and SMV Calculation of a Polo Shirt

Calculation of SAM/SMV:
Step 1: Select one operation for which you want to calculate SAM.
Step 2: Capture cycle time for that operation by stop watch standing beside of the operator.
(cycle time: total time taken to do all works needed to complete one operation). Do time study
for consecutive five cycles. Calculate average of the 5 cycles. Time we get from time study is
called cycle time.
Basic Time = Cycle Time X Performance rating
* Performance rating: Performance rating means at what performance level operator doing the
job, considering his movement and work speed. Suppose that operator performance rating is
80%. Suppose cycle time is 0.60 minutes. Basic time = (0.60 X 80%) = 0.48 minutes
Step 3: Standard allowed minutes (SAM) = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + machine and
personal allowances). Add bundle allowances (10%) and machine and personal allowances
(20%) to basic time. Now we get Standard Minute value (SMV) or SAM. SAM=
(0.48+0.048+0.096) = 0.624 minutes.
OPERATION BREAKDOWN AND SMV

Name of Operation
Placket Iron
Placket Join Position Mark
Placket Join
Placket Front Middle Cut
Rib Placket Servicing
Lower Placket 2 Part Join
Lower Placket O/L
Lower Placket Join & Top
Stitch
Nose Tack
Back & Front Part Matching
Shoulder Joint & Trim
Collar Servicing & Mark
Collar Tack to Neck
Collar Join
Collar Piping
Collar Top Stitch
Placket Close & 1/16 T/S
Placket Inner Tack
Placket Corner Cut
Placket Box Make
Cuff Servicing
Cuff Join
Sleeve Matching
Sleeve Join
Arm Hole Top Stitch
Cuff Opening Tack
Sticker Remove+ Body Turn
Side Seam
Cuff Top Tack
Bottom Hem
Button Hole
Button attach With Mark
Label Make & Bottom
Security Tack
Total
Sewing Thread Consumption:

M/C
name
IRON
TABLE
1N2TLS
TABLE
O/L
1N2TLS
2N4TOL

SMV

Manpower

0.40

2
1
2
1
1
1
1
2

0.30
0.32
0.28
0.25
0.30
0.28

1N2TLS

0.32

1N2TLS
TABLE
2N4TOL
O/L
1N2TLS
2N4TOL
1N2TFL
1N2TLS
1N2TLS
1N2TLS
TABLE
1N2TLS
O/L
2N4TOL
TABLE
2N4TOL
2N3TFL
1N2TLS
TABLE
2N4TOL
1N2TLS
2N3TFL
1N2TB
H
1N2TBA

0.35

1N2TLS

0.43

0.30
0.33
0.30
0.40
0.32
0.30
0.60
0.71
0.35
0.25
0.50
0.25
0.40
0.30
0.43
0.45
0.30
0.20
0.50
0.22
0.24
0.25
0.40

11.53

1
1
1
1
2
1
1
2
3
1
1
2
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
2
44

Sewing thread requirement 3.44 M for machine code 1N2TLS means to Stitch 1 Meter of Seam,
3.44 meter sewing thread is used.
Here we need to consider operational allowance 3+3=6 cm (starting point+ ending point) for
each operation for Lock Stitch and 3.5+3.5= 7 cm for chain stitch , 5+5=10 cm for Flat lock ,
6+6=12 cm for over lock with the length of each operation.
Also we need to consider 10-15% wastage on the calculated sewing thread consumption.
SEWING THREAD CONSUMPTION
M/C Name

CODE

Required
Thread(M/M)
Single Needle Lock Stitch
1N2TLS
3.44
Single Needle 2 Thread Flat Lock 1N2TFL
4.8
Double Needle 3 Thread Flat Lock 2N3TFL
13.2
Double Needle 4 Thread Over lock 2N4TO
19.8
L
Without Needle Over lock M/C
O/L
0
Button Attach
1N2TB
0.3
A
Button Hole
1N2TB
0.95
H
Posted by Noor Hossain at 9:12 AM

Sample Operation Breakdown of a Jacket

Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar
3116

Question: Can I have one sample operation breakdown for a

jacket with production layout? ... asked by Aweke Zewdu

Answer:
A sample operation breakdown with SAM of each operation has been shown below. In this
article, only operation breakdown and operation SMVs are posted. Production layout will be
posted in a separate article.
Standard time shown in the below chart is determined from Time Study. List of operations and
SAM of operations may vary based on style and construction. This Operation breakdown has
been sourced from a graduation project report of a NIFT student. This Project was done in Silver
Sparks Apparel Limited, Bangalore.

Operation Breakdown and Machine Layout for Bra Manufacturing

Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar
1412

Question: Please post an article on operation breakdown & machine layout of a

standard bra. I was unable to find anything on the Internet. ... asked by Isuru.

The following operation breakdown of a bra is refer to a particular style. Note that,
SAM values of the operations may vary according to the style, seam length,
attachment and work aids used and machine type. Prior to use below mentioned
SAMs and operation sequence discuss it with your engineers. As per your request I
have also attached machine layout of bra making in assembly line. To improve
machine utilization few operations are clubbed together.

Operation Breakdown: Bra

OP #

SEWING PROCESS

SAM

MACHINE

Join Cups

0.57

SNLS

Attach Tape to Cups

0.73

DNLS

attach Elastic to side cups

0.44

3SZZ

Set support Panels

0.39

SNLS

Serge support panels

0.62

3TOL

Join support panels, cup

and front

1.52

SNLS

Attach coverstitch tape to

front

0.61

DNLS

Join backs to cups

0.55

SNLS

Attach coverstitch tape to

sides

0.47

DNLS

10

Attach lace and tape to

cups

0.76

DNLS

11

Attach elastic to band

0.90

ZZ

12

Attach upper elastic &

0.91

3SZZ

straps
13

Cover support panels edges 0.54

3TOL

14

Attach hooks and eyes to

straps

1.39

SNLS

15

Set eye to back

0.36

ZZ

16

Set hook to back

0.50

SNLS

17

Attach trimming to front

0.25

SNLS

18

Trim thread and inspect

1.00

MAN

Total SAM

12.51

Machine Layout for Bra making

In the machine layout figure operation numbers and machine name have been
mentioned.