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AsmanyfleeSyriawar,thoseleftbehindfind

lifestrangeandghostly
ByLosAngelesTimes,adaptedbyNewselastaff
10.29.15

Childre
n rest after their arrival on a ferry from the northeastern Greek island of Lesbos to Athens'
port of Piraeus, Oct. 29, 2015. Greece is the main entry point for people from the Middle East
and Africa seeking a better future in Europe. Well over half a million have arrived so far this
year. Photo: AP/Thanassis Stavrakis

HOMS,SyriaTalalBaraziisgovernorofHomsprovince,alargeregionofSyria.Heisseated
inahotelrestaurantintheprovince'smaincity,alsocalledHoms.
Thehotelisheavilyguarded.Asforthecity,thereisnotalotofitleft.Muchofithasbeen
destroyedbySyriassavagecivilwar.Forthepastfiveyears,forcesloyaltothegovernmentof
PresidentBasharAssadhavebeenfightingvariousrebelgroupsthatareseekingtogaincontrolof
thecountry.
MuchofthecityofHomsisnowinruins.Itislike"BerlinafterWorldWarII,Barazisays.
SomeofHomswillberebuilt,butsomewillhavetobetorndowncompletely,"Barazisays.
"Wecantjustlookatalltheruinsandfeelsad.
A Sea Of Refugees And Rubble
Muchoftheprovincesprewarpopulationof2millionhasfled,eithertosaferpartsofSyriaorto
othercountries.Forthosestillherebychoiceornecessity,lifehastakenonastrangeandghostly
air.
Syriaasawholeisfullbombedoutbuildings,rubblestrewnstreetsandrefugeesonthemove.

ThegreatmajorityofSyriansstillliveinzonescontrolledbythegovernment.Inthosepartsofthe
countrysomethingsomewhatresemblingnormallifestillcontinues.Variousrebelgroupsnow
controlbigsectionsofthecountry,butmuchofthoseareasisdesertwithfewpeople.
Morethan4millionpeoplehaveleftSyriasincethecivilwarbegan.Another8millionwere
pushedoutoftheirhomesandforcedtomoveelsewhereinthecountry.
Still,Syriansaretryinghardtomaintaintieswithfamilyandfriends.
Friends, Families Scatter Around World
DailyconversationsonSkypeorWhatsApphelppeoplestayintouchwiththosescatteredaround
theworld.
EverynightwespendatleastanhouronWhatsApptryingtocatchup,EliaSammansays.He
nowlivesinDamascus,Syria'scapitalcity,butSammangrewupinHoms.
OfnineHomsfamilieshisfamilywascloseto,hesays,onlythreeremaininSyria.Theresthave
leftforSweden,Germany,Egypt,PersianGulfnationsorotherdestinations.
OneofhisclosefriendshadbuilthisfamilydreamhouseinHoms.Hecompleteditjustbefore
thewarbrokeout.
Hewasonlyabletolivethereforabout20days;thentheconflictcame,Sammansays.The
houseisnowinthehandsofarebelgroup,hesays.
Syriatodayisfullofcontradictions.InDamascus,theHamidiyacoveredmarketisstillfullof
seeminglycarefreeshoppers.ThefamousicecreamstoreBakdashdoesabriskbusiness,selling
fresh,Arabicstyleicecreamtoppedwithpistachioflakes.
Justafewmilesawaythingsareverydifferent,however.Hereoneseesblockafterblockof
bulletriddledapartmentbuildingsandblownopenshops.Theechoofgunfirecanbeheardinthe
distance.Motoristspassingthroughareadvisednottostop.
City Split Into Army, Rebel Zones
Aleppo,Syria'slargestcity,isnowdividedintogovernmentcontrolledandrebelheldzones.
Rebelscontinuallylaunchshellsandrocketsacrossanomanslandintothegovernmentzone.
Thearmy,inturn,poundstherebelsidewithheavygunfireandbombs.Thefightingkillsmostly
ordinarycitizens,whileaddingtotherubblepiles.
Atfirstglance,theUniversityofAlepposeemsasifitcouldbeaschoolanywhereintheworld.
Studentsonbenchesreadbooksandscribblenotes,whileothersscurrytoandfromclassrooms.
Lookcloser,though,andonenoticescratersandfencedoffareasmarkingsiteswhereshellsand
rocketshavefallen.Scoresofstudents,teachersandpassersbyhavebeenkilled.
AlepposOldCityisfullofcharredstorefronts,bombedoutbuildings,andhiddenrebelgunmen.
Nonetheless,MahmoudBadawistillkeepshissmallshopopen.Almostallhiscustomersare
Syriansoldierswholineuptopurchasesnacks,cigarettesandsoftdrinks.

Gonearethedayswhentouristsandwindowshoppersstrolledalongthewindingalleys.Back
thentheOldCitywaslivelyandbustling,andfullofsmallbusinesses.Todayonlyafewholdouts
remain,includingBadawi,whocannotimaginelivinganywhereelse.
WhywouldIleave?Badawiasks.Aleppoismyhome.

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