Woodcraft Magazine - May 2014 USA PDF

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Projects, Techniques, and Products
Easy-to-Build
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MORE PROJECTS
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BONUS PROJECT:
LAZY SUSAN p.
LESSONS & PRODUCTS

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VOL. 10/NO. 58 APRIL/MAY 14
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Whats The Secret To Flawless Edge

Proles With NO REWORK?
Freuds Quadra-Cut
4 Cutter Design
Router
Bits
Freuds
Exclusive
4 Cutter
Design
Other
Router Bit
2 Cutter
Design
SCAN WITH MOBILE DEVICE
Watch Demo Now!
For A Smooth Sanded Finish...

...Without The Rework!
U.S. Patent No. 8,899,252
Now Quadra-Cut 4 Cutter Design is Available in 1/4" Shanks

13 different 1/4" shank router bits available in the
most popular proles.
Beading
Round Over
Roman Ogee
Classical Cove & Bead
Ideal for Any Project that

Requires a Flawless Finish!
For more information visit: www.freudtools.com/Quadra-Cut
Red router bits are a registered trademark of Freud America, Inc. (US) 1-800-472-7307
30TH ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL EDITION

14" DELUXE BANDSAW
Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V,
single-phase, TEFC
Precision-ground cast
iron table size: 14" sq.
Table tilt: 45 R, 10 L
Cutting capacity/throat: 1312"
Max. cutting height: 6"
Blade size: 9212"9312" L (18"34" W)
Blade speeds: 1800 & 3100 FPM
Approx. shipping weight: 247 lbs.
30TH ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL

EDITION 17" BANDSAW
Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase, TEFC

INCLUDES DELUXE
EXTRUDED ALUMINUM
Blade size: 13112" L (18"1" W)
FENCE, MITER GAUGE &
1
2" BLADE
Quick-release blade tension lever
MADE IN TAIWAN
CAST
IRON
WHEELS
MADE IN TAIWAN
99
79
shipping
shipping
177335
lower 48 states
lower 48 states
ULTIMATE 14" BANDSAW

Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V,
MADE
single-phase, TEFC
Blade size: 9212"9312" L (18"34" W)
Deluxe heavy-duty stand
Upper & lower ball bearing blade guides
All ball bearing construction
Includes 38 blade
17" 2 HP HEAVY-DUTY BANDSAW
IN TAIWAN
Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, singlephase, TEFC

INCLUDES DELUXE EXTRUDED
MITER GAUGE &
iron table size: 17" sq. ALUMINUM FENCE,
1
2" BLADE
1
Cutting capacity/throat: 16 4"
MADE IN TAIWAN
Blade size: 13112" L (18"1" W)
Quick-release blade
tension lever
Approx. shipping weight:
346 lbs.
252923
79
SALE $ 87500
shipping
lower 48 states
252923
ONLY
G0514XF W/ FOOT BRAKE
142500
99
shipping
lower 48 states
INCLUDES BOTH REGULAR

& DADO BLADE INSERTS
G0715P ONLY $79500
14WOODC
16272
with Riving Knife

Motor: 112 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase
Precision-ground cast iron table with wings
Table size: 2514" x 40" Arbor: 58"
Arbor speed: 4000 RPM
Capacity: 318" @ 90, 214" @ 45
Rip capacity: 30" R, 12" L
Encapsulated blade for
FREE 10"
improved dust collection
CARBIDE Camlock fence with
TIPPED BLADE
micro-adjust
Fence scales on left and right side of blade
175370
99
SALE $ 65000
shipping
lower 48 states
Motor: 3 HP or 5 HP, 240V, single-phase

Precision-ground cast iron table
size with wings: 27" x 48"
Arbor: 58"
Cutting capacity: 2558" R, 8" L
Max. depth of cut: 3" @ 90, 218" @ 45
Approx. shipping weight:
550 lbs.
MADE IN TAIWAN
177335
99
shipping
lower 48 states
150
shipping
lower 48 states
VIEW VIDEOS AT
grizzly.com
MADE IN TAIWAN
with Riving Knife & Cast Iron Router Table
BEAUTIFUL
WHITE COLOR!
232857
shipping
lower 48 states
10" LEFT-TILTING TABLE SAWS
10" HYBRID TABLE SAW
Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase

with wings measures: 27" x 40"
Arbor: 5 8 " Arbor speed: 3850 RPM
Capacity: 3 1 8 " @ 90, 2 3 16 " @ 45
Rip capacity: 30" R, 12" L
Quick-change riving knife
Cast iron trunnions
99
10" LEFT-TILTING CONTRACTOR-STYLE TABLE SAW
19" HEAVY-DUTY BANDSAWS

Motor: 3 HP, 220V,
single-phase, TEFC
DELUXE RESAW FENCE
iron table size: 2634" x 19"
INCLUDED
MADE IN TAIWAN
Blade size: 143" L (18"114" W)
ALSO AVAILABLE
3 GREAT SHOWROOMS!
BELLINGHAM, WA MUNCY, PA SPRINGFIELD, MO
TECHNICAL SERVICE:
570-546-9663
FAX: 800-438-5901
SUMMER SALE
FREE CATALOG
760 PAGES OF HIGH
QUALITY TOOLS AND
MACHINERY AT
INCREDIBLE PRICES
March 31 - July 31
Visit Grizzly.com to view all sale prices
W
with Riving Knife & Extension Rails
OO
Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase

Table size with extension: 27" x 7434"
Arbor: 58" Arbor speed: 4300 RPM
Max. depth of cut: 318" @ 90, 2316" @ 45
Max. rip capacity: 50" R, 12" L
Max. dado width: 1316"
D MAGAZI
PPR
8" JOINTERS
10" CABINET TABLE SAW
D
OVE
FREE 10"
CARBIDETIPPED BLADE
3 HP LEESON
MOTOR!
150
150
152500
shipping
lower 48 states
shipping
lower 48 states
WITH SPIRAL CUTTERHEAD
SALE $229500
OO
D MAGAZI
PPR
OVE
150
Motor: 3 HP, 220V, singlephase

CHOOSE EITHER 3
Precision-ground cast iron KNIFE OR SPIRAL
CUTTERHEAD
table size: 15" x 20"
MODEL
Min. stock thickness: 316"
Min. stock length: 8"
1
Max. cutting depth: 8"
Feed rate: 16 & 30 FPM
Cutterhead speed:
4800 RPM
Approx. shipping
$
208624
150
weight: 660 lbs.
shipping
lower 48 states
shipping
SALE $109500
SALE $169500
lower 48 states
ALSO AVAILABLE IN GRIZZLY GREEN
20" PLANER
VARIABLE SPEED PLANER/

MOULDER

Maximum cutting width: 20"
Maximum cutting height: 8"
208624
Minimum stock thickness: 316"
Minimum stock length: 8"
Maximum cutting depth: 18"
POUND FOR
Feed rate: 16 FPM and 20 FPM
POUND,
Cutterhead diameter: 318"
THE BEST 20"
Cutterhead speed: 4800 RPM
PLANER VALUE
Feed rolls: solid serrated steel IN THE WORLD!
Table size: 20" x 2534" (20" x 5512" with extension)
Overall dimensions: 5512"L x 3912"W x 4578"H
Approximate shipping weight: 920 lbs.
SALE $79500
shipping
lower 48 states
shipping
lower 48 states
2 HP DUST COLLECTOR with Aluminum Impeller

Motor: 2HP, 240V, single-phase, 3450 RPM
Motor amp draw: 9 Amps
Air suction capacity: 1550 CFM
Static pressure: 11"
6" inlet has removable "Y" fitting with two 4" openings
Impeller: 1234" balanced cast aluminum
Bag capacity: 5.7 cubic feet
Standard bag filtration: 2.5 micron
247570
Portable base size: 2114" x 3312"
Bag size (dia. x depth): 1912" x 33"
MADE
IN
TAIWAN
Powder coated paint
Height with bags inflated: 78"
W1049 2 STAGE
CYCLONE SEPARATOR
OO
ONLY
6512"
TALL!
MADE IN ISO 9001 FACTORY!
D MAGAZI
shipping
lower 48 states
99
179
CYCLONE DUST COLLECTOR
79
Motor: 112 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase,

TEFC, 3450 RPM
MADE IN TAIWAN
Air suction capacity: 775 CFM
Static pressure at rated CFM: 1.80"
Intake port: 6" with included
5" optional port
Impeller: 1312"
BEAUTIFUL
WHITE
Height: 6512"
COLOR!
Built-in remote
control switch
FULLY MOBILE
Approx. shipping
WITH BUILT-IN
weight: 210 lbs.
CASTERS
$
Motor: 2 HP, 240V, single-phase, 12 Amps

Precision-ground cast iron table and wings
Maximum cutting width: 7"
Maximum planing height: 712"
Maximum planing depth: 18"
177335
Maximum moulding depth: 34"
Feed rate: Variable Cutterhead type: Square
Knife size: 718" x 112" x 14" HSS
Cutterhead speed: 7000 RPM 4" dust port
Rubberized steel feed rollers Powder-coated paint
MADE IN TAIWAN
SALE $165000
SALE $255000
PLEATED FILTER IS
PROTECTED BY A
STEEL CAGE
FREE SAFETY
PUSH
BLOCKS
15" PLANERS
12" JOINTER/PLANER COMBINATION MACHINES
NEW END-MOUNTED
FENCE
Jointer table size: 14" x 5912"
1
Cutterhead dia.: 3 8"
Max. jointer depth of cut: 18"
Max. width of cut: 12"
MADE IN TAIWAN
Planer feed rate: 22 FPM
Max. planer depth of cut: 18"
CARBIDE
Max. planer cutting height: 8" INSERT SPIRAL
Planer table size: 1214" x 2318"
CUTTERHEAD!
CHOOSE EITHER
4 HSS KNIVES
OR SPIRAL
CUTTERHEAD
MODEL
4 KNIFE CUTTERHEAD
232857
Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase, TEFC

Precision-ground cast iron
table size: 9" x 7212"
Max. depth of cut: 18"
Max. rabbeting depth: 12"
Cutterhead dia.: 3"
208624
Cuts per minute: 20,000 (G0656P),
21,400 (G0656PX)
PPR
OVE
FREE WITH PURCHASE
SALE 32500
$
79
shipping
lower 48 states
FOLLOW US:
OVER 15,000 PRODUCTS ONLINE!
Contents: Projects
April/May 2014
24

Picture Frame
Display a favorite photo in style with

this lap joint design. Its signature

36
62
Octagonal
Picnic Table
Seat up to eight diners at this party-in-theround project. Simple cuts and joinery
Mobile
Assembly Cart
Build this hardworking organizer

from a sheet of plywood, and
bring order to your next build.
67
,<
Take a stab at knife making using hardwood scrap,

epoxy, and a kit from Sarge.
44
Hardworking Lazy Susan
Complement the octagonal picnic table or other

4
woodcraftmagazine.com
April/May 2014
Cover photo: Jim Osborn
$1,097
Go to your Woodcraft dealer today to see why

everyone is raving about the 14|Twelve bandsaw
115 Volt, 1HP
Oversized Cast Trunnion
Laguna Ceramic Guides
World Class Fit & Finish
Worm Gear Rack & Pinion
Dynamically Balanced Cast Wheels
Enclosed Stand, Hi/Low Rip Fence
Optional Wheel System & Blades
LAGUNATOOLS.COM
SHOWN WITH OPTIONAL INDUSTRIAL FLOOD LIGHT
Contents: Tools & Techniques
29
Photographing
Your Projects
46
Clear Outdoor
Finishes
You dont have to be a professional

photographer to take great shots of
your work that you can share with the
world. All you need are some basic
equipment and a bit of know-how.
51
Discover the secrets for

when making frame-and-panel

Check our your choices, then

pick the best product to protect
your next project from Mother
Natures worst.
56
Departments
08 /
18
12 Mailbox
74
14 Hot New Tools
Tips & Tricks
WoodRiver Silicone
D
Wd
Wax Polish
See whats out there in the world of

mechanical drawer slides before designing
and building your next cabinet. Find help in
70
Well-Stocked
Shop: Lubricants
Whether greasing the worm gear

tables of your shop machines to

the job in this diverse roundup.
D
Drawer Slides:
The Inside Story
WoodSense: Ipe
JessEm Clear-Cut
Precision Stock
Guide
Frame-andPanel Finesse
April/May 2014
Upgrade For Free!

When you buy a SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw
Make Your Selection

Choose A Free Accessory
Overarm Dust Collection

$199 Value
ice
o
h
c
r
u
o
Get y
ory!
s
s
e
c
c
a
of Free
OR
)NTEGRATED-OBILE"ASE
$199 Value
Build yours today!
Did You Know

You can build and price your ideal
SawStop at sawstop.com/build
Buy a Professional Cabinet Saw between March 1 and April 30, 2014,ANDWELLOERYOUTHE
UPGRADEOPTIONOFYOURCHOICE)NTEGRATED-OBILE"ASEOR/VERARM$UST#OLLECTION
FREE!
7HILESUPPLIESLAST6ISITYOURLOCALDEALERORSEEWEBSITEFORDETAILS
*Overarm Dust Collection requires a DC Blade Guard, which is included with the 3.0HP Professional Cabinet Saw but must be purchased for the 1.75HP model.
SAWSTOPCOMUPGRADE
Cutting In
Shop-Smart
^^
Getting organized in the shop requires
having a lot of specialty storage on hand
for everything that makes a shop work,
from tools to accessories. Once your shop

and time savings increase tenfold. In

mobile assembly cart on page 62. It offers
dedicated storage for glues, assembly
screws, dowels, biscuits, nailers, a drill,
and a driver. Just roll it up to your
assembly table, and youre ready
to fasten project parts together.
This project, however, is just
the tip of the iceberg in what
we have to offer in the way of
workshop storage. Working
with Schiffer Publishing,
LTD, we gathered our very
best shop storage projects
from past issues of Woodcraft
Magazine and placed them in our
most recent book in the Home
Woodworker Series. Titled Home
Workshop Storage, this comprehensive volume includes 21
projects for storing anything from your favorite hand tools
and portable power tools to clamps, lumber, sheet goods, and a
variety of power tool accessories. There are even step-by-step
plans to make base and wall shop cabinets in three styles.
Home Workshop Storage is a companion to our previous book
introduced in 2013, Home Workshop Setup: the Complete Guide.
It is here where we provide woodworkers with a shop planner

So, if you love your shop and you want to love it more with
various improvements and dedicated shop storage, nows your
chance. Order either of the two books by visiting the Woodcraft store
nearest you or www.woodcraft.com, or by calling (800) 535-4482.
April/May 2014
April/May 2014
s/
/
^
Jim Harrold
Paul Anthony
Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
Art Director
'
Chad McClung
Shayne Hiles
W
Sharon Hambrick

W
John Blackford, Ken Burton, Marlen Kemmet,
Tom Kreger, Bill Sands, Pete Stephano
W
Gary Lombard
^D
Vic Lombard
^
Kim McLaughlin

Kiah Harpool

Circulation Specialists, Inc.
^
U.S. and Canada, $19.97 for one year
Single copy, $5.99
(800) 542-9125
h
tD
4420 Emerson Avenue, Suite A
P.O. Box 7020
Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020
(800) 542-9125 Fax: (304) 420-9840
Email:
Online:
tD (ISSN:1553.2461, USPS 024-953)
is published in January, March, May, July, September
and November and printed in the United States by
Woodcraft Supply, LLC, 4420 Emerson Ave., Suite A,
Parkersburg, WV 26104. Tel: (304) 485-2647. Periodical
Postage paid at Parkersburg, WV, and at additional
mailing offices. Copyright 2014 by Woodcraft
Supply, LLC. All rights reserved. POSTMASTER: Send
address changes to tD, P.O. Box
7020, Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020. Canada Post:
Publications Mail Agreement #40612608
Canada Returns to be sent to Pitney Bowes,
P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2
Printed in the USA
^& Working wood can be dangerous.

your machine owners manuals, using appropriate
guards and safety devices, and maintaining all your
tools properly. Use adequate sight and hearing
W

may be removed from tools shown in photographs
For more information call (855) 923-7326,

visit www.woodcraftfranchise.com,
or email: WoodcraftFranchise@woodcraft.com
When I think about owning my

own business
When woodworking is your passion, and
owning your own business is your goal,
Woodcraft can help you take your skill
and expertise to the retail level.
I think of Woodcraft
Carve a niche for yourself in woodworking with a

Woodcraft retail store. It is difcult to overstate the
importance of a brand name with a reputation for
quality. The Woodcraft name is a tremendous asset.
If you are a woodworker, you already know what
we mean.
Now, after more than 80 years, the Woodcraft name
is even more recognizable than at any other time in
our history. Are you seriously looking for a franchise
opportunity? Are you passionate about woodworking? Would you like to consider opening a store in
your area?
Open the door

to your own
business!
Contact us today to nd out how to

open the door to your Woodcraft
Retail Store!
David & Aaron Sapp
Nashville, TN Franchise Owners
We're building a business that transcends generations.
Having a Woodcraft franchise has helped us grow as a
family while preparing our next generation for success.
F14WD05P
Woodcraft Franchise, LLC

1177 Rosemar Road, P.O. Box 245
Parkersburg, WV 26102-0245
RETAIL FRANCHISE OPPORTUNITIES
Robert Sorby
a cut above
The Robert Sorby
TurnMaster is the first tool in
the world to combine three
cutting edge technologies in
one flexible tool.
Cutters are available in
tungsten carbide, titanium
nitride (TiN) and high speed
steel (HSS) providing
unsurpassed range to
woodturners at every level.
MY CHOICE OF
SHARPENER.
Benefits:
All cutters interchangeable with one tool

Unique* indexable cutting head for three scraping options
Interchangeable cutter head no need to buy whole new tool
Flat underside for stability
High tensile torx screw / key for quick cutter release
With Tormek, I can finally teach

students to efficiently sharpen
their tools. Anyone can learn
how to achieve a superb
cutting edge in 10 seconds!
Fantastic system.
*Patent pending
Professional Woodturner
County Carlow, Ireland
CARBIDE: TITANIUM: HSS

Proudly made in Sheffield, England
Robert Sorby,
Athol Road, Sheffield S8 0PA, England.
Tel: 44+ 114 225 0700
Fax: 44+ 114 225 0710
E-mail: sales@robert-sorby.co.uk
Web site: www.robert-sorby.co.uk
10
April/May 2014
See the video from Glenns workshop at www.tormek.com !
Lifetime
Warranty
V-DrillGuides
Drill Straight - Every Time!
Can be used on flat surfaces,

round parts and corners.
www.BigGatorTools.com
913-377-2444
NEW FROM FORREST!
Ply Veneer Worker Blade
Designed Specically for Cutting Plywood and Plywood Veneers

This commercial-quality blade is ideal
for rip and cross cutting two-sided
plywood, whether nished or unnished. It is also perfect for cross
cutting solid woods. In fact, theres
no comparable blade on the market
today.
It lasts up to 300% longer between

sharpenings. The PVW is made of
super-strong C-4 micrograin carbide
for extra durability. Like other Forrest blades, it is hand-straightened to
ensure perfect atness and has a side
runout of +/- .001.
The Ply Veneer Worker (PVW) uses

the same high-precision technology
thats behind our popular Woodworker
II blade. Designed for cutting wood
products only
The PVW is superbly engineered. It

features a 10 hook, 70 teeth, and a
high alternate top bevel grind. You
can count on this exceptional product
to give you vibration-free performance
and long life.
The PVWs list price is $23 less

than our Duraline Hi-A/T.
It delivers awless cuts without
splintering or fuzz. You never have
to worry about chip-outs on top or
bottom surfaces. No scoring blade is
needed.
All Forrest blades, including the new

PVW, are made in the U.S.A. and have
a 30-day, money-back guarantee. So www.ForrestBlades.com
order today from your Forrest dealer or 1-800-733-7111
retailer, by going on-line, or by calling (In NJ, call 973-473-5236)
us directly.
2014 Forrest Manufacturing
April/May 2014
Code WC
11
Mailbox
A real keeper
Back in the Oct/Nov 2008
issue, you featured a
pendulum baby cradle. At
the time my daughter was
still in college, but I thought
the cradle was so nice I
should cut the plan out and
save it for someday. Well,
that someday has come,
and I wanted to share with

It was a wonderful design
that resulted in a family
heirloom destined to
outlive me for generations.
Thank you for giving me
the plan for that legacy.
Joe Snyder,
Louisa, Virginia
Long live
your lightbulbs
Regarding the Light Right
story in the Feb/March 2014
issue, I would like to add that
halogen bulbs should not be
touched by bare human hands.
The oil on your skin will leave
a residue on the bulb causing
a hot spot. Over time, this will
reduce the bulbs lifespan.
The solution: when changing
a halogen bulb, wear gloves,
or grab it with a clean cloth.
Andy Barton,
Camarillo, California
Go against the
grain and nd
your groove
Own your own business
Let your passion for wood lead you into
a new business with Furniture Medic, the
worlds largest furniture and wood repair
and restoration franchise.
s Extensive training
s Low initial investment
s Financing available
800-230-2360
furnituremedicfranchise.com
2013 Furniture Medic Limited Partnership. All rights reserved.
12
April/May 2014
Errata
t
Ive always used free wood I
picked up from some place for
projects. Recently, I bought two
special pieces of wood that were
coated with wax. How do I deal
with removing the wax? I saw
one suggestion about sanding it
off. Simple enough, but do you
have any other suggestions?
Ken Earle, San Carlos, California
Ken, freshly-sawn exotic
hardwoodssuch as ebony and
rosewoodtypically have moisture
levels that range anywhere from
14% to 35% (compared to the
6% to 8% moisture content of
kiln-dried hardwood). Wax is a
simple means of slowing down
the drying process after rough
Wax
milling and during shipping to

prevent splitting and checking.
Wax can affect glues and

skin deep. If youre dealing with a
turning blank, the most effective
way to remove the wax is to shave
it off at the lathe. If youre using
the board for some other type of
project, simply saw or plane off
the coating. (To save wood, you
can scrape off the wax with a card
scraper or hand plane it to expose
bare wood.) Some woodworkers
also use acetone to wipe away
any remaining wax residue.
Jim Harrold, editor-in-chief
errors

/

visit
Chime in
Have comments about the

tD readers?
^
t
Magazine, PO Box 7020,
Parkersburg, WV 26102.
96
pages
From the editors of
Woodcraft Magazine
Everything you need to

develop an organized and
highly efcient workshop.
Call today 1-800-225-1153

or go online at
www.woodcraft.com
April/May 2014
13
Hot New Tools

router tables
JessEm Clear-Cut
Precision Stock Guide
By necessity, most woodworkers own an
arsenal of guards and featherboards for their
router tables. The reason for such sizeable

some compromise. Better control often means

JessEms latest accessory combines safety
and control while providing a clear view of your

1
4" T-slot, the one-way feed rollers mount at a
5 inward angle so that they hold stock down
against the table and pull it toward the fence as

its fed past the bit. The rollers have a 234" total

9
16" below the center of the horizontal T-slot
in your fence. Considering its ability to assist
with everything from grooves, to dadoes, to
raised panels, once you attach the jig to your
fence, you might wind up keeping it there.
#158903,
Tester: Peter Collins
&t^

bulls-eye
D'
For those spring and summer
projects that are too big to schlep
to the drill press, heres a jig that
can help you drill perpendicular
drill holes precisely where

in the palm of your hand. This

(ranging in size from 18 to 12")
14
April/May 2014
housed within an ergonomic

base thats designed to grip onto

stock. To use, simply line up the
centering lines on the sides of
the guide with the crosshairs on
your stock, hold the jig, and drill.
#158941,
Tester: Peter Collins
JessEm photo: Manufacturer; DrillBlock photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert
Hot New Tools

^
WoodRiver Silicone Bench Mats
For those who burn through
rolls of kraft paper when gluing

reusable solution. Flexible and
564

pads and installed

Tester: Kent Harpool

&t^
Vision Is Everything
LANCELOT
Cuts In Any Direction
22 Tooth / 14 Tooth
Three Center Hole Sizes
Tandem Disc Combos
Fits 4 1/2 Angle Grinders
HOLEY GALAHAD
A Window To Your Work
Round Profile / Flat Profile

Coarse, Medium, Fine Grits
Durable Tungsten Carbide
JeffroUitto.com
800-942-1300 katools.com
16
April/May 2014
Z
Bora ProtecTool, 100ml
Those who use wax on their hand
tools and machine tables appreciate
the way that the coating reduces
friction but accept the fact that
wax doesnt do much to stave off
rust. ProtecTool offers the same
slip but also contains corrosion
inhibitors that provide an extra
chemical barrier against corrosion.
Due to its creamy consistency,
the product goes on like other
waxes; simply wipe it on, wait,
then buff. According to the manufacturer, the
wax hardens upon exposure to air to create

by-side tests, tools treated with ProtecTool

better than those treated with regular wax.
#158701,
Tester: Kent Harpool
TM
THE WOODTURNING SYSTEM

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April/May 2014
17
Tips & Tricks

TOP TIP

Locating light precisely where its needed
at the bench makes doing detail work
much easier, whether its laying out joints,
cutting dovetails, or simply reading wood
grain. This sliding bracket lets me position
my articulating-arm lamp anywhere
along the length of my workbench. The
bracket was designed to grip the edge
of a recessed tool tray, but it can be

the vertical block a tad longer than the
height of your benchs back rail to ensure

and bottom blocks on the tablesaw, initially
work with stock thats oversized in length
for safety. Alternatively, create the lipped
areas by gluing on separate strips of wood.
Dont glue the bottom block as youll want to
remove the bracket when necessary, such as
when laying large panels on your benchtop.
Andy Rae, Asheville, North Carolina
Lip catches top side

of bench tray.
Lip catches
underside of
bench tray.
Trim-head screw
2 2"
1
6"
Drill hole
for lamp
stem.
4"
2"
Share a Slick Tip.

Win Cash or a Prize!
Heres your chance to help someone become a

ETop Tip will receive a t
'. Runners-up will receive
for an non-illustrated
one. Winning entries become the property of
tD. Send your original ideas to:
Tips & Tricks, tDWK
Wtsor email
.
Important: Please include
your phone number,
as an editor will need
to call you if your

18
April/May 2014
4"
4-20 hanger
bolt
4-20 knob
Plane body
The American Woodshop
2
magnet
with Scott & Suzy Phillips
Glue blade slot

Stock block
Shop-made

Over the years, I have replaced many of the thin
stock blades in my vintage hand planes with
modern aftermarket blades. Looking for a way to
put an old blade to good use, I combined it with a

handy tool for various trimming chores and for
removing dried glue at intersecting project parts.
To make a plane like this, begin with a block of
wood about 1" thick, exactly as wide as the blade,
and about 12" shorter. Bevel the front half of the
block down to about 38" for a good grip, and ease
the edges for comfort. Shape a bit of hardwood to

plug in place to the underside of the body, and then

epoxying a 12

the surface of the block to hold the blade in place.
Alejandro Balbis, Longueuil, Quebec
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& Hand Skill Solutions
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Season 21 shares woodworking tips
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Picture this jig

Have you ever pulled out a jig that you havent
used in a while and realized that you dont entirely
remember how to set it up or use it? Me, too. To
prevent that, Ive added a new tool to my shopan
inexpensive digital camera. After setting up a
jig and any attendant tools, I take a few
relevant snapshots, print them out, and
tape them to the jig and/or stash the images
in a jig setup folder for future reference.
This approach works well as long as I can
remember where I keep the camera.
Robert Lopez, Los Angeles, California
/D
April/May 2014
19
Tips & Tricks

Featherboard
Panel-raising guard
Success at raising panels on the router

The two router table accessories that

throughout the cuts, ensuring a smooth

38
12
20
April/May 2014
,
guard extends out
over the bit in front
of the featherboard.

The 38

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April/May 2014
21
Tips & d

d

W
Baseboard
Ball-drilling jig
For a recent project, I needed to
drill accurately centered holes
into some wooden balls I had
purchased, so I came up with
this jig to hold them securely on
the drill press. To make the jig,

board from a short piece of stock
whose thickness approaches the
radius of the ball to be drilled.
Cut a 14" slot in it, and screw it to
a baseboard thats long enough
to span your drill press table.
Then drill a hole through the
upper board using a holesaw.
(I used a Vermont American
#18401 adjustable-diameter
holesaw, which allows slight
22
upsizing to accommodate the

typical variance of wooden balls
from their nominal diameters.)

drill press with a standard twist
bit whose diameter matches
that of your holesaws pilot bit.
Lower the bit into the pilot hole
in the baseboard to center the
jig under the drill chuck. After
clamping the baseboard to the
table in this position, switch out
the bit with the one youll use
to drill the ball, and pinch a ball
in the jig by clamping across
the slot. Now youre ready to
drill a perfectly centered hole.
John Hutchinson, Delaware, Ohio
April/May 2014
The perfect way to cut

logs the traditional way.
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April/May 2014
23
Arts & Crafts

Picture Frame
Keep a loved one close at hand
with this wall hanging or stand.
his frame, with its lap

joint construction, features
several signature elements
from the Arts & Crafts era.
They include the overhanging
beveled cap, tapered stiles,
decorative square buttons,
and quartersawn white oak.
Sized for a 57" photo or piece
of art, you can build it to stand
on its own or hang on a wall.
By Marlen Kemmet
Start with the

frame members
1 Cut the stiles (A), bottom

rail (B), and top rail (C) to the
sizes listed in the Cut List.
Lay out the 14"-deep rabbets
and dadoes on the back face
of each stile (A), using the
dimensions in Figure 1. Install
a dado set in your tablesaw,
along with a miter gauge,
auxiliary fence, and stop. Raise
the dado set 14", and make a test
cut in 34"-thick scrap to verify
the depth. Now, cut rabbets
and dadoes in the stiles, setting
the stop as needed. Cut the
mating 14"-deep rabbets on
the front faces of the top and

lap joints. The back surfaces
of the mating parts should be

Glue and clamp the
rails (B, C) to the stiles (A),
checking for square. Wipe off
any glue squeeze-out with
a clean, moistened rag.
Overall dimensions: 838"w 178"d 1038"h

24
April/May 2014
Figure 1: Frame Exploded View
4"
Side View
30
112"
8"
4"-deep rabbets
>
sawtooth
hanger here.
d
8" rabbet, 14" deep

on back edge
of opening
Install turn
Hardboard
Glass
2"
4"-deep
dado
Protrude

by 18".
4"
8"
2"
1
4 14 12
w/116" bevels at one end
4"
2"
4 4 8" deep
4 At the router table using a

rabbeting bit, rout a 38" rabbet
" deep along the back inside
edge of the frame, as shown in
Photo A. This is for housing the
glass pane, photo, and backing.
Rout the rabbet in two passes to
minimize chip-out. The rabbeted
opening is sized 18" larger
than a 57" photo. Square the
rabbeted corners with a chisel.
Mark the locations of the
button mortises. Then, at the
drill press, drill a 316" hole 38"
deep at each hole center. For an
equal protrusion of the buttons
later, keep the mortised depths
consistent by using the tools
depth stop. Square the round
openings with a chisel (Photo B).
1
4
A
Rout a rabbet along the back face of the frame, moving
Opening photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Project photos: William Hopkins
April/May 2014
25
prepare it for a 30 cut. With the

blade raised and angled at 30
from vertical, slide the fence
over 14" from it. Make Cut 1
and Cut 2, shown in Figure 2,

safety. Tilt the blade to vertical,
adjust the fence 178" from it, and
rip the cap to width (Cut 3).
Cut a 18"-thick hardboard

the rabbeted opening.
Drill four 116" pilot holes in the
back of the frame for mounting
the turn buttons around the
rabbeted opening. (I located
the holes 38" from the rabbet.)
Sand the frame (A/B/C)
and cap (D) through 220 grit.
Center, glue, and clamp the cap
to the top edge of the frame

To use the frame for tabletop
display, cut the support (E). Start
with a 12 6 612" workpiece for
safety. Install a zero-clearance
insert, and angle your tablesaw
blade 30 from vertical. Adjust
2
3
B
Use a 14
6 Referring to Figure 1, mark

the tapered outside edges of the
frame, and cut the taper using
a bandsaw. Cut just outside
the line, and then sand to the
line to remove saw marks.
Add the cap, support,

1 At the tablesaw, cut a "-thick

3
5
8
oak workpiece to 6 9 "

for the cap (D). Install a
zero-clearance insert, and
Figure 2: ^^
Cap
(Begin w/34 6 958
Cut 3: Rip cap to width.
Cut 2: Chamfer edge at 30.
^
(Begin w/1 6 61
Cut 1: Chamfer
4"
ends at 30.
Cut 3: Miter
Cut 2: Bevel-rip
Cut 1: Chamfer
edge at 30.
8"
26
April/May 2014
the fence 18" from the blade.

With the workpiece on edge and

pushblock to chamfer the
support (Cut 1 in Figure 2).
Angle the blade 20 from vertical.
Move the fence 214" from it, and,
W

table, bevel-rip the supports
opposite edge (Cut 2). (See
Side View in
Figure 1.) Miter-cut the ends
of the support at 10 (Cut 3).
Carefully locate and glue
the support (E) in place so the
frame leans down at 20. (I used
masking tape to hold the piece in

place.) For a wall-mounted frame,
C
fasten in place a sawtooth picture

h
Center it on the top rail (C).

Finish-sand and stain the
frame. (I used General Finishes
to stand proud of the frame

Black Cherry thinned 30% with
up a stop for consistent button
surface 18". Add the turn buttons
water. I then applied three coats
lengths.) Glue the buttons in
to the back of the frame. Insert
of Watco Lacquer, Satin, Spray.)
place. The buttons are sized
the glass, picture, and back.
To create the buttons (G), rip
a strip of walnut to 14 14 8".
Picture Frame Cut List

Part
Thickness Width Length
Qty. Matl
3
ends in the square mortises.
4"
A*
^
2"
958"
2
QWO
1
1
3
Lightly bevel-sand four 45
2"
B*

1 2"
8 4"
1
QWO
1
chamfers on the ends of the
2"
C
Top rail
114"
838"
1
QWO
3
strip, as shown in Photo C.
4"
D*
Cap
178"
958"
1
QWO
1
Crosscut a 12"-long button
2"
E*
Support
218"
6"
1
QWO
1
1
1
from each end of the strip, and
8"
F
Back
5 2"
7 2"
1
HBD
1
1
1
repeat for all six buttons. (I used
4"
4"
2"
6
W
G*

the Olson 35-231 saw and mini/
miter box set, but any miter box
Materials: QWO = Quartersawn White Oak, HDB = Hardboard, W = Walnut
Hardware/Supplies: (1) Sawtooth picture frame hanger, picture frame glass.
About Our Author

A founding member of the
San Diego Woodworking
D<
career in woodworking and

He likes building furniture and
home accents in the Greene
'
/
/DW
Convenience-PLUS BUYING GUIDE

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April/May 2014
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Photographing
Your Projects
Show your work at its best.
By John Blackford and Paul Anthony
art of the satisfaction of

working wood is showing off
your projects. In this Internet
age of social media, that often
means photographing your work
and posting it on Facebook,
Google Plus, Flickr, or your own
photo blog. If youre an aspiring
professional, good photos can
also serve as exhibit entries or
strong portfolio material to help
sell your work. So if you count
a camera among your tools,
why not put it to its best use?
If youve felt that your photos

dont measure up to the quality
of your woodworking, or if you
have even avoided the attempt
entirely, take heart. Good
photos result from suitable
lighting and composition
more than costly gear.
Armed with your camera,
some relatively inexpensive
lighting equipment, and the

here, you can produce photos
that do your projects proud.
The investment? Well, aside from

your camera, a basic selection
of decent gear can be aquired

respectable shop machine. You
can get started for less, as well
discuss, but you have to invest
a few bucks to get good shots.
A rudimentary starter setup

April/May 2014
29
The Necessary Gear
Use a camera tripod for steady

&

D
^

d/

Camera and tripod

enormous selection of strobe

units (Photo B

Photo C
Hot lightingusing bulbs as
strong as 500 wattsis less

Photo D

much light, those with at least

(Photo E

Photo C
You can use any camera to shoot

your work, ranging from a DSLR

like the one shown in Photo A,

Z

30
>
&>

April/May 2014
>^
One light and a
board
One light
Poster
board
Project
Project
The most basic setup

consists of a single light

the project. This has limited

Umbrella
Camera

consists of a single light aided by

Umbrella
Camera
Two lights
Two lights and a

board
Poster
board
Project
One of the best
setups uses two

and intensity
allows greater
Camera
Project
Two lights plus a

many challenging
arrangements

the two main lights
fail to reach.
Camera
Umbrella
Umbrella
Umbrella
For best results, place a light on

each side of the camera, aiming
each toward the project at about
90 to the other light. Initially,
set one strobe twice as bright
as the other. (If using hot lights,
use a 250-watt bulb in one
light and a 500-watt bulb in the
other.) This will create enough
shadow to give the project
some depth while avoiding

You can move the lights
around and adjust brightness
to emphasize important details
such as joinery in the workor

Photos: John Blackford, Paul Anthony
illuminate either the background

or areas that are too dark. Other
options include combining a
single light with secondary
illumination bounced off a white

Another reason to use

avoid the harsh, unattractive
shadows produced by a very
small light source such as the
bulb itself. By bouncing the

(See photo, page 32), shooting
through a white translucent
umbrella, or using a soft box,
you effectively increase the size
Umbrella
of the light source and soften

shadows in the process. A soft
box holds the lamp within dark

material and faced with diffusion
fabric. (See photos above.)
Note that the size of a light is
relative to its distance from the
subject. Just as moving a light
forward boosts illumination,
it also increases the effective
size of the light. Use this to
your advantage. For example,
to alleviate harsh shadows,
try moving the lights closer
even a small light can cast
soft shadows when close in.
April/May 2014
31
W

and light control
At an aperture of f4, the depth of

which you may or may not want.

>
Light size affects the type of

shadow. A small light produces
sharp shadows and an abrupt
transition from light to dark.
(See the photo below left).
A larger light produces soft
shadows and a smoother
transition (below right).
As shown in the diagram at

equal to the square of its
distance; therefore, doubling the
distance yields only a quarter
of the light (two f-stops).
April/May 2014

Y
in 116

Lamp
8' (4Y)
4' (2Y)
2' (Y)
/
(X)
Proper
d

32
The size of the lens opening

(the aperture) affects both

control. Smaller apertures
(higher numbers) produce

36" from a 50mm lens at f4 is
1.89", while at f11 its 5.38".

admits twice as much light.
/
(14 X)
f22
f16
f11
/
(116 X)
f8
f5.6
f4
f2.8
d
d

d

White balance
work well enough. When shooting

RAW format (which captures all

color adjustments must be made
during computer processing
afterward. That's because the
camera's white balance settings
are bypassed in RAW format.

Accurately capturing in photos

the warm, inviting colors of the
woods you use in your projects
can be a challenge. When
shooting JPEG images, setting
your camera's white balance for
whatever light youre using (such
Exposure
&>

Tip Alert
h

&>

Exposure refers to the amount

of light the camera records. A
properly exposed photowhich
will yield similar tones to the
subjectresults from capturing

the correct amount of light. You
can adjust exposure by changing
the intensity of your lights, their
distance from the project, the

or the size of the aperture. With
hot lights, you can also vary the

Underexposure. The photo

Proper Exposure.d

Overexposure.d

April/May 2014
33
^^d
Use the cameras

histogram to ensure

histogram is located center-right.
Successful photography depends
on following an organized
approacheven though you
may end up varying the
plan as you proceed. Follow
these general guidelines to
produce a nicely composed,
well-exposed photo, such as
the one of this small table.
Check the focus by zooming in

on your cameras LCD screen to

near and far edges. If blurry, use
smaller f-stops such as f11 or f16.
34
&

yielding a clear, well-lit photo
t
1 Pull your seamless paper down 4 Take a test shot with the
onto your staging to create a
very gradual roll-off at its rear
edge. Place your project near the
center and well away from the
paper wall. Then position the
piece and camera in tandem for
best composition. In the case of
a rectilinear piece like this table,
angle it to indicate its depth, and
raise the camera enough to show
the table top without featuring it.
2 Position the main light to
illuminate the broadest forward
surface of the project, and

shadows cast by the main light.
3 Adjust the main light to
illuminate the main surfaces
without washing out detail. If
necessary, reposition it to create

on the bead at the bottom of this

light to between half and threequarters of the main's intensity.
April/May 2014
camera set at f8 and ISO 100 to

inset in Photo A indicates proper
exposure. But we can do better.
(The widest, tallest section of
the histogram represents the
most prominent visual data.) If
the image is too dark, open the
camera aperture one stop (from
f8 to f5.6) to double the amount
of light recorded. If the image is
too light, close the aperture one
stop to f11. As you change the
d
&

match in size in both eyes.
Detail Shots
E

&

^

aperture, the peak portion of the

histogram will shift left or right.
Adjust exposure to shift the bulk
of the histogram about two-thirds
to the right without any clipping
against the edges. When using
strobes, shutter speed changes
won't help; just leave the shutter
set to the synchronization speed
shown in your camera manual.
5 Initially focus about one-third
of the way into the depth of your
project. Placing the center point
of your autofocus system on
that spot will generally produce
the best overall sharpness.
After taking a shot, zoom in on
the spot using the LCD panel

if necessary. Check the front
and back edges of the table for
/

/

sharpness (see the photo at far

left, opposite), and reduce the
aperture (to a higher number) if

6 Take another test shot, and
tweak the light balance, focus,
and composition as needed. If
shadows crawl up the vertical
part of the background, do
one of the following: Raise the
lights, move the project closer

light to wash out the shadow.
7 If the project itself still
has undesirably dim areas,

however necessary to bounce
light into those spaces.
8 At this point, you should be
pretty close to home. Take one
Sources
z
d,
W
<,

&
K
t

it for focus, composition,

proper exposure, and any
odd shadows or highlights
that may need correction. (To
really scrutinize the picture,
temporarily slip the memory
card into a computer for
viewing on a larger screen.)
Photo B shows the completed
photograph of our example. The
table is attractively positioned,
in focus, accurately exposed,
and well lit with nice contrast
and no undesirable shadows
or distracting elements.
About Our Authors

:

,

E
^W

,

April/May 2014
35
Octagonal
Picnic Table

By Bill Sands
amily members and friends

will enjoy the good times around
this accommodating outdoor
project that seats up to eight
happy diners. Theres nothing
tricky about the construction.
Plugged exterior-grade screws
and waterproof glue bond the
2-by parts together, guaranteeing
years of use. A hole at the

tabletops center allows you
to insert an umbrella to shield
diners from intense sunlight.
The chevron-shaped benches
attached to the cross supports
allow for easy-access seating,
unlike standard picnic table
designs, which force you to climb
over the seats to sit down. For

plans for the complementary
lazy Susan, see page 44.
Note: To protect against rot
and insects, I used western
red cedar. Other outdoor wood
choices include redwood, cypress,
and pressure-treated pine.
Overall dimensions: 9134"w 29"h

36
April/May 2014
Figure 1: Wds
112
rounded over
8
Round over edge.
#8 212"
ext. screw
Notch Detail

>
holes 34" in
from edges.
#20 biscuits
#8 3" ext. screw

#8 212" ext.

Notch (to match

412"

#8 3" ext. screw
134"
Round over edge.

#8 3" ext. screws

ends at 6712.
Align leg to front
edge of base.
Figure 2: Ws
#8 3" ext. screws
6712
6712
67 2
1
6712
^
6"
20"
6712
6712
60
60
67 2
1
45
W:K/D
45
45
45
April/May 2014
37
Base line
Use a backsaw to cut the notch shoulders, guiding

Build the cross frames

Note: Before building, take a
minute to inspect your stock
and select the best boards for
each section. Any chips, knots,
or bad spots should be kept
on the underside faces or cut
out when laying out parts. Any
crowned faces should face up
once fastened in place to better
shed water. The most visible
parts, or those that will be in
contact with arms and legs, must
be smooth and splinter free.
Now, working with either
dimensional lumber or thicker
h
stock that you joint and plane

to the part thicknesses in the
Cut List, crosscut the left and
right seat frame parts (A) and
left and right tabletop frame
parts (B) to length. Also, cut
the eight spacers (C) to size.
(See Figure 1 for reference.)
Lay out the centered notches
on both faces of the seat frame
parts (A) and tabletop frame parts
(B), where shown in the Detail
in Figure 1. (Here, measure
the thickness of the combined
frame parts and spacer [C]
when sandwiched together for
the notch widths. The mating

the shoulder cuts as shown in
Photo A. Then make multiple cuts
between the shoulder cuts to the
baseline of the notch. Cut out the
waste with a chisel and mallet.
Repeat for the other notches.
At the mitersaw, bevel-cut
the ends of the left and right
seat frame parts (A) and left
and right tabletop frame parts
(B) at 6712, referring to Figure 1
for the bevel orientations.

as a workbench, group the left
and right frame parts (A) and the
left and right frame parts (B),
Tip Alert
^
^

C
d
D
38
April/May 2014
As seen in Photo C, I cut a

/
drilled two 116
h
/
/

didnt contact each other.
s

to bench
^
d
t

orienting each group with their
notches up. Align the part ends,
and clamp them together and
to the workbench. Clean up the
notches, as shown in Photo B.
On a level surface, testassemble the interlocking seat
(A) and table (B) cross frames,

in Figure 2 and as shown
in Photo C. Disassemble.
Use exterior glue in all of the
joints. Reassemble the frame
parts. Mark the screw-hole
locations, and drill counterbored
pilot holes. Starting at the mating
notch joints, drive four exteriorgrade 3" screws vertically to join
the seat and table frame pieces (A
and B). Drive 3" screws through
the frame sides and into spacers
(C). Repeat for all spacer joints.

d
on the table leg. This will come

into play in Step 4 and again
when attaching the seat cross
frame later. Similarly, strike lines
on the remaining legs. Continue
the lines across the edges and
opposite faces of the table legs.
As shown in Photo E, fasten
a seat base (E) to two seat legs
(F) using three 3" screws per
leg driven into counterbored
holes. Note that the seat legs

of the seat bases, as shown
in Figure 1. Repeat for all
four seat base assemblies.
Cut the parts and

assemble the seat bases
4 Make a pair of angled

seat base spacers, as shown in
Figure 2. Next, clamp a table
leg (D) in your bench vise with
the top end down, aligning the
reference lines with the surface
of your benchtop. Now, using the
spacers, fasten a seat base/seat
legs assembly (E/F) to the bottom
end of the leg with 3" screws and
exterior glue, as shown in Photo F.
Mark and counterbore three
centered holes in the joining
parts and drive the screws.
Repeat to make the remaining
three base assemblies (D/E/F).
1 Using 1 "-thick 5 "1
wide stock, cut the table legs

(D), seat bases (E), and seat
legs (F) to length and at the
angles shown in Figure 2.
Place a seat leg (F) on a table
leg (D) aligning the bottom ends
using a backstop, as shown in
Photo D. Strike a reference line
F

April/May 2014
39
Alignment stop
Alignment stop
Set aside the base assembly with its alignment

stops while spreading glue on the hard-to

placing a straightedge across the top ends of the
seat legs and top edges of the seat frames.
5 Cut eight seat cleats (G) to size, 2 Clamp a pair of scrap
3 Slide the base assembly (D/E/
and glue and screw them with

212" screws to the inside faces of
the seat legs (F). Extend them 78"
beyond the outside edges of the
legs, and make their top edges
F/G) into place, as shown in

Photo H. Once all the key parts
align, drill counterbored holes
for 3" screws. Repeat the process
for attaching the remaining
base assemblies to the seat
frames cross assembly (A/C).
Add the base assemblies

to the seat cross frames
Strike lines 1334" to strike

in from the ends across the
top edges of the seat cross
frames assembly (A/C). This
line tells where the table legs
(F) intersect the top edges of
the seat frames assembly.
alignment stops along the top of

the reference lines on the sides

of the base assembly (D/E/F/G)
in place between the seat frames
(A), aligning the reference lines
and resting the stops on the
top edges of the frames. Next,
mark the screw locations on the
outside face of one seat frame.
(As before, I made and used a
plywood marking jig for this.)
Slide the base assembly out of the
way, and apply glue in the base
assembly/seat frames mating
area, as shown in Photo G.
Figure 3: Biscuit Slot Marking Jig

Fence
5
8 58 10"
glued or screwed in place
Form the tabletop

perimeter frames
1 Set up your mitersaw to

2212 (once cut, the miter angle
of the board will be 6712).
Verify the angle with a test
cut. Using a stop to establish
consistent lengths, angle-cut the
top perimeter boards (H) and
the bottom perimeter boards
(I) to length. See Figure 2.
Using a square, or with a shopmade marking jig as shown in
Figure 3 and Photo I, mark the
biscuit locations on the ends of
the perimeter boards (H, I). Note:
All top perimeter boards receive
biscuit slots; only the mating
ends of the bottom perimeter
board pairs receive slots.
Adhere a 38"-thick spacer to
your biscuit jointer with doublefaced tape, and cut biscuit
slots that are centered on the
thickness of the top and bottom
Base
8 314 10"
40
April/May 2014
Centered slot
8" thick spacer
Biscuit slot
marking jig
Hold the biscuit marking jig fence along the

outside edge of the perimeter boards to mark
consistent biscuit slot centers with a pencil.
perimeter boards (H, I). Align
the centerline of the tool with
the marks made in Step 2. Cut
the slots, as shown in Photo J.
Build the perimeter frames
assembly jig in Figure 4 using
scrap plywood and solid stock.
Drill pocket holes on
the bottom faces of the top
perimeter boards (H) at the
ends to fortify the biscuit joints
and to snug up the pieces during
assembly. Position the holes at
least 34" in from the edges. Be
sure the hole locations do not
cause the screws to exit the
edges of the perimeter boards.

surface, apply glue in the slots,
insert the biscuits, and place
two top perimeter pieces bottom
faces up in the assembly jig.
Drive the pocket screws to snug
the joint. Move the assembly
and fasten another perimeter
board, as shown in Photo K. Fit
t
place, align the biscuit joiner centerline with
the mark, and plunge-cut the slot.
a spacer under the cantilevered

end of the assembly to keep
it level. Add a fourth board to
make one-half of the octagonal
top perimeter frame. Build the
other half. Let the glue set up.
Drill two pocket holes on the
bottom faces of the non-mating
ends of the bottom perimeter
boards making up the four
chevron-like frame sets. Use
the assembly jig to glue up the
sets. Set the four frame sets
aside to let the glue cure.
Next, glue and screw the two
half frames together to make
the octagonal top perimeter

frame. (I used a strap clamp
to help tighten one half frame
against the other.) After the
glue sets up, remove the strap.

1 With the octagonal perimeter

frame (H) top face down on a
large assembly surface, place the
tabletop cross frames assembly
(B/C) on the octagons bottom
face. Insert and clamp scrap
112"-thick leg spacers between
the tabletop frame parts to
2" thick spacer
d

packing tape or coat of wax
to the jig to keep the parts
Perimeter frames
t
clamped to its fence, glue and screw the top perimeter boards end to end.
April/May 2014
41
Figure 4: Perimeter Frames Assembly Jig

Fence
112 112 1534"
Base
1
2 13 30"
2212

38

1

#8 12

Photo L

Photo M1

Cut and install the

tabletop boards
1

Cut ListFigure 2

Add the base and seats
1

Leg spacer
112"-thick
leg spacer
Check the distance from the octagons corners to

the ends of the tabletop cross frames to center
z
42
April/May 2014
t

top cross frames assembly and octagon.
the center of the tabletop cross

frames opening on the bottom
face of the center tabletop
board (L). Drill a small pilot hole
through the board. Next, saw a
112 112 36" piece of scrap.
Apply glue on the inside faces
of the ends of the table frames
(B/C). Carefully lift the base
assembly, turn it upside down,

the (B) members of table
frames. Insert the 112"-square
piece into the center openings
of the frames to align the seat
frames over the table frames.
Remove the 112" piece. Now,
counterbore holes, and drive 3"
screws to secure the base to the
tabletop, as shown in Photo N.

octagonal picnic table right side

Using a 112
the umbrella hole, guiding on the
pilot hole drilled in Step 1.
Lay out the seat parts (M, N)
to the sizes in the Cut List
Convenience-PLUS
BUYING GUIDE
1.
#153577
$2.75
D

2.
#142693
$8.99
W,W
3.
4.
#85O13
Drill counterbored pilot holes through the table frames and into

plane or sand them even.
Sand the octagonal picnic
table to 180 grit. Using a 14"radius round-over bit in a
handheld router, round over the
umbrella opening and all exposed
seat and table edges. Wipe the

sprayed on Sikkens Cetol SRD.)
and as shown in Figure 2. Cut

same spacing for the tabletop
boards, fasten the seat parts

G), using glue and 212" screws
in counterbored holes.
Cut plugs from cedar scrap.
Then, glue the plugs in place
to cover up the hardware.
Octagonal Picnic Table Cut List

Part
Thickness
Width Length
Qty. Matl
>
112"
312"
88316"
>
1 2"
3 2"
48"
Frame spacers
1 2"
3 2"
3 2"
Table legs
112"
512"
3318"
Seat bases
1 2"
5 2"
24"
Seat legs
1 2"
5 2"
14"
Seat cleats
112"
112"
9"
$5.29
Top perimeter boards
112"
512"
21516"
Router Fence Dust

&12"

1 2"
5 2"
16 8"
#148483
J*
Outside tabletop boards
112"
512"
2812"
K*
Outside adjacent tabletop

boards
112"
512"
391516"
Center tabletop boards
112"
512"
4012"
K
boards
112"
512"
26"
/
112"
512"
2358"
$20.99
<K^
#8 212
t
woodcraft.com
Prices subject to change without notice.
4.
E
$54.99
^^Z
d
Above item is available at amazon.com. Price
subject to change without notice.
/^
Materials: C = Cedar
Hardware/Supplies: #8 212" and #8 3" exterior-grade screws;
''
April/May 2014
43
Hardworking
Lazy Susan
Give your outdoor dining table a new spin.
By Bill Sands
assing the ketchup and

mustard around the picnic
table just got a whole lot easier
with this table topper. Glue
and splines hold the perimeter
of the table frame together. A
lazy Susan bearing hidden in
a channel underneath allows
for the rotation, while a hole
in the center of the assembly
accommodates an umbrella
shaft. With the stock and
bearing on hand, you can build
the piece in an afternoon.
Make the perimeter frame
1 Starting with an 8'-long
cedar 26 or a piece of 6/4

cedar of similar length and
width, mill the wood to 114"
44
thick by 312" wide for the

perimeter frame pieces (A).
Install a 34"-wide dado set in
your tablesaw, and raise it 34"
above the table. Adjust the fence
1" from the dado set, and begin
cutting a 178"-wide channel, 34"
deep, on one face of the board.
Adjust the fence as necessary to
achieve the channels full width.
(This will be the bottom face;
the edge in contact with the
fence will be the outside edge.)
Using a 14" dado set and a

it, cut a 14" rabbet, 34" deep along
the top face and inside edge of the
board, where shown in Figure 1.
Adjust your mitersaw to
the right to cut at 6712 (or
April/May 2014
2212, depending on your saws

settings). Set up a 4"-wide
stopblock on the right side of the
blade for an 8"-long cut to create
the trapezoids making up the
perimeter frame. Now, make a
test cut on a 312"-wide piece of
scrap. Swing the blade to 6712
to the left. Slide the test piece
against the stop and make the
cut. Verify the angles and length.
Next, set the blade to 6712 right,

right end of the perimeter board
stock. Set the blade to 6712 to
the left, slide the mitered end of
the board to the stop, and cut the

Repeat the procedure to cut the
remaining seven frame pieces.
Using an exterior-grade glue

up the perimeter frame pieces
(A) to form an octagon, clamping
with a strap clamp. Let the glue
set up and remove the strap.
Make the slot-cutting jig in
Figure 2 for your tablesaw using
scrap 34" MDF or plywood. Shape
a pair of add-on fences to suit
the octagonal frame, and adhere
them to the jigs tall fence using
double-faced tape. Install a saw

bottomed kerf, and raise the blade
to cut 34"-deep into the corners of
the octagonal frame. Adjust the
saw fence to center the slot cuts
in the edge of the frame. Now,
place the frame on the jig, clamp

slot. Similarly, cut the remaining
slots at each perimeter joint.
Resaw enough 1"-wide spline

(I used walnut for contrast.)
Cut the pieces to length, work
glue into the slots with a thin
applicator, and tap the splines in
place. After the glue sets, trim

edges of the octagonal frame.
Add the tabletop boards,

stabilizer, and bearing
Figure 1: >^s
1 Cut enough "-thick stock

3
1
8
to 3 " wide for the outside

tabletop boards (B) and
inside tabletop boards (C).

of the outside tabletop boards (B)
at 6712
snugly against the inside edges of
the octagonal frame. Fit the pieces
in place, as shown in Figure 1.
Measure the distance between
the outside tabletop boards
(B). Subtract from this number
the combined widths of the
two inside tabletop boards (C).
Divide the remainder by three
for the spacing between the
tabletop boards once in place.
Cut the inside tabletop
boards (C) to length. Using the
established spacing, set the
boards on the octagonal frame
opening parallel to the outside
tabletop boards (B), and mark

corners of the tabletop boards,

and pin (or clamp) all the pieces
in place in the frames rabbet.
Cut the octagonal stabilizer (D)
to the size in the Cut List. Center
and glue it in place, orienting the
grain at a 45 angle to the grain
direction of the tabletop boards.
Drill a centered 112" hole for
an umbrella shaft in the lazy
Susan assembly (A/B/C/D).
With a 14" radius round-over
bit in a router table or handheld
router, round over the edges of
the lazy Susan and the 112" hole.
Avoid letting the bearing dip
into the gap between the boards.
Sand the assembly through 220

(I used Sikkens Cetol SRD.)
Center the bearing in the
channel in part A, and screw
it in place. The rubber feet
extend below the assembly.
112
4
434
834
1 8 4
114
Figure 2: ^:
^
3
4

&
4
'
31213

414
6
7
2212
ED
Lazy Susan Cut List

Part
W
K
/
K
A
B
C
D
Thickness
114"
3
4"
3
4"
3
4"
Width
312"
18"
18"
12"
Length
8"
1134"
13"
512"
Qty.
8
2
2
1
Matl
C
C
C
C
Materials:
Hardware/Supplies:14''
,>^1316516
twoodcraft.com
W
K>,>/D
April/May 2014
45
Clear Outdoor
Finishes
Weather will eventually win,
but heres how to play good defense.
By Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
46
April/May 2014
n truth, the great outdoors isnt

that great for wood. Sunlight
(UV radiation), moisture, plus
a host of insects and microbes
are all dead-set on turning your
project back into the dirt from
whence it came. Paint provides
the best defense; unfortunately,
the pigments that protect also
cover up the woods grain and
your workmanship. If you want
the woodand your workto shine

days isnt as clear as it once was.
In addition to a host of familiar
offerings, advanced chemistry

restrictions) has created a bunch of
new options. Choice can be a good
thing, but with so many products
silently sitting side-by-side on the
store shelf, its easy to get confused.
To help you make sense of your
options, Ive divided outdoor clear

and provided examples to illustrate
the range of products within each
group. Additionally, Ive included
two outside of the box products
that deserve consideration.

next project, start by comparing
the major differences, such as
application ease and service
life, and select a category. Next,
check the attributes within each
subcategory, and pick a winner.
(To make quick sense of the facts,
skip ahead to the chart on p. 50.)
This shouldnt come as a surprise,
but eventually, weather will win.
That said, if you choose the right
product and do what it takes to keep
up its defenses, you can help your
project hold out for many years.
Varnishes
Pros:
>
K
hs

Cons:
^

/
Whether the can says spar

(varnishes are a traditional

safe to assume that the product

enough to withstand outdoor
conditions and to protect against
moisture and UV radiation.
Varnishes are intended to be
built up to create thick physical

Alkyd
(Oil-Based) Varnishes
Traditional oil-based varnishes
lead the pack in durability. Most
can hold their own for 2 to 3
years before they look chalky.

involves scuff-sanding the
topcoat and applying a fresh coat.

maintenance. If damage makes

need to completely strip the
project and start from scratch.
With a top-quality natural

does take time. Factoring in the
drying times and the requisite

and a few more days before
the project is ready for use.
Acrylic
(Water-Based) Varnishes
As with most water-based

not raise the grain. In terms

varnishes are whiter than

neither had the color-sapping

acrylics. The color clarity also
allows you the ability to use
this varnish as a protective
topcoat on painted projects.

no further. Acrylics cure
considerably faster than oilbased varnishes and quicker than

I could apply a smooth coat of

acrylic in roughly half the time
it took to brush out and tip off

The biggest surprise was how
much easier acrylics were to

corn up when scuff-sanding

that you sand a lot to correct

be the reason to try acrylic.
Whether acrylics resist

better than alkyds remains
KWW>,>

plenty of reasons why you
should give acrylics a try.
April/May 2014
47
Oils
Pros:
&
No sanding required between coats
Finish will not chip or peel
Cons:
d

hs
Most oils cannot be built up

&

and easy to apply and provide the most natural feel and
appearance. Unfortunately, in comparison to varnishes, these

Mother Nature. And because most oils cure so soft, you cant
expect multiple coats to create a thicker, more durable defense.
As a group, oils are the most easily misunderstood because
the products have completely different makeups. To understand
your choices, it helps to divide this category into subgroups:
hardening, oil/varnish blends, and polymerized oils.
Hardening Oils
Tung oil is one of the few
naturally-hardening oils that
is suitable for outdoor use. To
use, simply wipe it on, wait, and
then wipe off, and wait (each
coat requires a day or two to

tung oil offers a decent defense
against moisture; however,
because it lacks UV inhibitors,
projects exposed to sunlight
will eventually turn grey.
Made from a blend of natural
oils (including linseed), Odies Oxi
Oil is solvent-free and nontoxic.
Oil/Varnish Blends
In theory, oil/varnish blends
combine the best of both worlds.

to apply (with a brush, rag, or
garden sprayer) than heavierbodied varnishes. The resins

offer additional protection
against moisture and abrasion.
However, while blends offer

barrier still doesnt do much to
block moisture or vapor. And
while most blends contain UV
inhibitors, not much defense
can be packed into a clear coat
thats only a few microns thick.
If the piece spends most of its
days outdoors, you should plan
48
on making regular inspections

as soon as the wood appears dull
(about every year). The good
news is that oil/varnish blends

project might only require a light
scrubbing or powerwashing before its
ready for recoating.
Furthermore,
April/May 2014
In contrast to slow-curing tung

oil, Odies looks good after only
one coat and dries in only 72
hours. To use, simply apply with
a rag or abrasive pad, give the
oil 30 minutes to sink into the
wood, and then buff off the excess.
Because it contains natural
waxes and UV inhibitors, Odies
has an edge over tung oil when it
comes to combating moisture and
sunlight, but the barrier is still
thin. To keep defenses up, youll
need to monitor your project
and apply a fresh coat when the
surface starts to appear dry.
repairs are easy. If the wood

starts to stain or turn grey,
you can usually get away
with spot-sanding and then
applying a few touch-up
coats to the problem spot.
Polymerized Oils
Although not evident from the
label, Tru-Oil is different enough
to deserve a special category. This
polymerized (polymerization
refers to a cooking
process in an oxygen-free
environment) product is
essentially partiallycured. Once exposed
to oxygen, the oil
cures harder, faster,
and glossier than
tung oil and most oil/
varnish blends. With
multiple coats, its
possible to build up

that can hold its own
against the elements.
Looking at Linseed Oil? Look elsewhere.

^

/
The downside to the

polymerization process is that the
curing clock is already ticking.
Compared to other oils and
blends, Tru-Oil tacks up quickly
and may develop tiny cracks if
its applied too thick. For these
reasons, it should be reserved
for smaller, more manageable

scales and gun stocks.
Safety Alert
d

One-Time And Woodlife Classic

When shopping for clear wood
/

/

OneTime Wood Protector
d

K
Kd

hs

Kd

Kd

Woodlife Classic
/

t

t

d

E
hs
Online Extra
&ttt
DD'K
April/May 2014
49
Outdoor Clear Finishes Comparison Chart

Product
Type
Cost
Recd
coats
Water
Resistance
(Moisture/
Vapor)
UV
Mildew
Resistance resistance
FilmCleanup
Building
Drying
(hours)
Notes
Tung Oil
Oil
$20.99/qt.
Rag, brush
Y/N
Mineral
spirits
24
t
excess or

gummy.
Odies
Oxi Oil
Oil
$27.99/9 oz.
Rag, brush
1-2
Y/N
Mineral 72
spirits or
D-Limonene
Wax provides

moisture
resistance.
General
Finishes
Outdoor Oil
Oil/Varnish
$17/qt.
Rag, brush
Y/N
Mineral
spirits
10
Darkens
slightly
Watco
Teak Oil
Oil/Varnish
$18/qt.
Rag, brush
Y/N
Mineral
spirits
10
Recommened for
hardwoods
(mahogany,
teak, ipe).
Watco
Exterior
Wood
Oil/Varnish
$16/qt.
Rag, brush
Y/N
Mineral
spirits
10
Recommended for
Slight yellow
Tru-Oil
Polymerized Oil
$17/8 oz.
Rag, spray
5
(aerosol can)
Y/Y
Mineral
spirits
24
Apply in
thin layers to
avoid cracks.
Does not
yellow
with age.
System 3
Spar
Oil
$40/qt.
Brush
9-12
Y/Y
Mineral
spirits
24-48
Can be
applied
over epoxy.
Darkens
Varathane
Spar
Oil
$19/qt.
Brush
Y/N
Mineral
spirits
72
Darkens
Behlens
Oil
WW
Z
Varnish
$23/qt.
Brush
Y/N
Mineral
Spirits
24-48
Nearly colorless. Darkens

less than
other oils.
Waterlox
(Sealer and
Marine
Finish)
Oil
$32/qt.
$43/qt.
Brush, rag
3
Y/Y
1 sealer/
2 top
Mineral
spirits
72-96
Sanding
not required
for adhesion
of next coat.
Darkens
Varathane
Acrylic
$16/qt.
Brush, roller,
sprayer
Y/Y
Soap and 24
water
Can be
sanded in
2 hours.
GF Exterior
450
Acrylic
$23/qt.
Brush, roller,
sprayer
Y/Y
Soap and 24
water
Can be
sanded in 2
hours. Works
as topcoat on
GF paints. Not
recommended
for ipe or teak.
OneTime
Acrylate
Resin
$35/qt.
Brush, roller,
sprayer
Y/N
Mineral
spirits
or
Simple
Green
100% solid;
requires UV
to cure. No
Woodlife
Wood
Preserva
Acrylic
$12/qt.
Brush, roller,
sprayer, dip
Y/Y
Soap and 24
water
50
April/May 2014
24-48
Sealer
and primer.
Aboveground
use only.
EPA
registered
mildewcide.
Frame-and-Panel Finesse
Looks and longevity are in the details.
By Paul Anthony
rame-and-panel construction
has been used for centuries to
build cabinet doors, case sides,
and other assemblies. It is so
attractive you might think it was
designed that way just for looks.
But it was actually devised as an
elegant solution to the perennial
problem of wood movement.
The problem is that a simple
solid wood panel expands and
contracts across its width in
response to seasonal changes in
humidity. So if such a single-slab
panel was used as a cabinet door,
for example, it might swell shut

during high summer humidity
and shrink enough to show
unsightly gaps during winters
low humidity. With frame-and
unglued inside a frame where its
allowed to expand and contract
while the frame maintains a
consistent overall size. Brilliant.
Of course, panels can also
be made from plywood, MDF,
and other stable man-made
materials. This approach offers
the beauty of frame-and-panel
construction without the

wood movement problems.
Whatever style you choose, its
not hard to build frame-andpanel assemblies, especially
with the stile-and-rail router
bit sets available these days
for the frame joinery. However,
designing and making assemblies
well requires some nuance and
a basic understanding of wood
movement. Here, Ive compiled
a handful of tips and techniques

your frame-and-panel work.
April/May 2014
51
How it works
Door Anatomy
Top rail
Tongue
Bevel
Z
Solid
wood
panel sits
unglued
in frame
grooves.

No expansion
gap needed in
rail grooves.
Wood Movement
No movement
Solid wood expands
and contracts only
across the grain.
No movement
52
April/May 2014
Wood is hygroscopic; that is, it absorbs moisture

from the air. And when it does, the moisture
swells the cell walls, causing the wood to expand
across its grain. Conversely, when moisture in
the air decreases, the wood will shrink across
its grain. This response to changing seasonal
humidity must be factored into the design
of a piece of furniture if its to last. Frameand-panel construction is a solution that
allows a wide solid wood panel to expand and
contract freely within grooves in the frame.
The frame consists of stiles (the vertical
members) and rails (the horizontal members)
that are relatively narrow, so they wont
substantially change dimension over the
seasons. This dimensionally stable construction
houses the panel within the frame grooves. A
tongue at the panel perimeter tucks into the

between the two even as the
panel changes width.

into its frame, leave a gap
between the panel sides and
the stile grooves to allow for
wood movement. (Because
the panel wont change length,

between its rail grooves.) A
Expansion gap

that the fully expanded panel
Dowel or other
wont muscle the frame joints
pin through
rear face keeps
apart. Likewise, you dont want
panel centered.
a fully contracted panel to pull
entirely away from its grooves.
In the case of man-made
materials (e.g., plywood
and MDF), the frame serves
to restrain the panel from
warping and to hide any ugly

from the aesthetics borrowed
Negligible
from traditional frame-andmovement across
grain of narrow
panel design. And because

a plywood panel is stable, it
can be glued into the frame
grooves, making for a virtually
indestructible assembly.
&
&
d

that suits the application and your tooling. Keep in

>

^
^
d

W
Although most panels can
simply be categorized as either

in small shops today are cut on

WW/:,

thickness. The simplest approach
is to make the panel as thick as

a thicker panel to center it across

the panel. I usually do the latter
dZ

April/May 2014
53
Composing panels
Ideally, a solid-wood panel within
a frame should be made from a
single board with uninterrupted
grain. However, wide boards can
be hard to come by, requiring
you to glue up large panels from
narrower boards. Following a
few simple design principles
can yield panels with gracefully
composed grain that makes
your furniture stand proud.
When laying out, use long
boards, sliding them against each
other to create a good match at

the boards in whatever way is
necessary to create the most
uninterrupted, continuous
grain pattern and consistent
color. When working with
boards that exhibit arched
cathedral grain, its a good
idea to use a full-width board
at the center of the panel, and
then join narrower straightgrained pieces to its edges
to create the wider panel. As
a general rule, orient the arch
of cathedral grain upward for
a more uplifting feel. (When
cutting panels from plywood
sheets, select sections of the

closely as practically possible.)
Z
Unless you own a shaper, raising
panels is best done on a router
table. Youll want a strong
(minimum 2 hp, preferably
variable speed) router to spin
a typical panel-raising bit.
These hefty bits take a big bite,
so make sure to remove stock
by taking a series of shallow,
sequentially deeper passes. For
clean, accurate cuts, always
use a featherboard to keep the

table at the bit location. Also,
use a guard to protect your
hands from that vicious bit.
When rabbeting the edges

grooves, its important that the
tongue be a consistent thickness.
Otherwise, you invite gaps or
Use a panel-raising bit in your router table to bevel panel edges. The
guard in the background (see page 20) has been removed for clarity.
54
April/May 2014
Grain clashes on
panel of poorly
composed edgejoined boards.

t
visually distorts
frame and may
indicate warpprone wood.
Straight grain on

makes for stability

framed panel.
Centered cathedral
grain with upward
arch creates
a balanced,

its grooves. For accuracy, I

suggest creating the tongue by
making two intersecting cuts

table. Then make the second cut
with the panel held vertically
against the fence as shown in
the photo below. Orienting the
tongue between the blade and
the fence like this ensures it
will be a consistent thickness.
D

by a featherboard to ensure a
tongue of consistent thickness.
&
Most seasoned woodworkers
have learned by experience
how much room to allow in stile
grooves to accommodate wood
movement of a solid wood panel,
basing their decision on the
type of wood and the relative
humidity in the air. However,
for this approach to work, its
critical that youre working
with properly seasoned wood,
and to be certain of that, youll
need to read the moisture
content with a moisture meter.
Precise calculation of wood
movement can get complicated,
but as a ballpark reference,
remember that most seasoned
Tip Alert
Type Wood movement charts
into your web browser for more

movement to expect from a
plainsawn domestic woods

move between 18" and 14" per
foot of width from the driest
time of year to the wettest.
Many exotic species move a bit
less, and all quartersawn wood
moves less than plainsawn.
Overall, the exact amount of
movement depends on the type
of species and where you live.
With those parameters in
mind, factor in the season and
your locale. For example, if
youre building in the dead of
a northeast winter, a 1'-wide
panel has probably shrunk
as much as its going to, so
youll want to leave at least
1
8" between each edge and its
adjacent stile groove bottom
for the wood to expand during
the humid summer. Conversely,
in deep summertime, you
can seat a panel almost fully
in its stile grooves, leaving
perhaps a 116" clearance on
each side as insurance.
A moisture meter like this

Wagner model MMC 220 will
accurately tell you the moisture
content of your stock.
Fingers are actually

a safe distance
To remove enough wood to

allow for expansion, simply
run a panels long-grain edges
Tip Alert

the panel shrinks inward away from the stiles.
To prevent buckling when gluing up a frame,
use parallel jaw clamps. When using pipe

diameter matches the frame thickness.
Use a dowel or brad to pin a solidwood panel in place through the back
of the rails to ensure the panel stays
centered as it expands and contracts.
Because wood movement is not an
issue with plywood panels, they can be
glued into their frame grooves, which
reinforces the overall construction.
If you dont have parallel jaw clamps like the one in

the foreground, use proper size dowels against pipe
clamp jaws to prevent the assembly from buckling.
April/May 2014
55
Drawer Slides:
The Inside Story
How to choose which ones to use
By Ken Burton
hen it comes to smoothrunning, trouble-free drawers,

you just cant beat the action
you get from a set of properly
installed drawer slides. While
some purists may scoff at their
use in handmade furniture,
mechanical slides are a mainstay
of the kitchen cabinet industry
and take a lot of the hassle out
of installing drawers in cabinets
and furniture alike. So rather
than debate whether drawer
56
slides belong in your next project,

the real question becomes:
How do you choose from all the
options available? In this handy
guide, Ill help you pick the right
slides for the application at hand
and save time that you might
otherwise spend on research.
Whats out there

When purchasing slides, you have
two choices to make: how far
out you want your drawer(s) to
April/May 2014
extend (Photos A, B, C) and how

you want to mount the slides to
the drawer (and the case). Here,
you see side-mount slidesthose
that are mounted between the
sides of the drawer and the sides
of the case. Other options include
center-mount (Photo D)
and under-mount (Photo E).
You may also come across some

the drawer as well (Photo F).
A
At the low end of the scale are
three-quarter extension slides.
They allow a drawer to extend
so that about three quarters
of it is exposed and easily
accessible. The primary
advantage of these slides is

their economical cost. Also,
they are readily available
at local hardware stores
and home centers and are
B
Full-extension slides allow

They come in a range of

much weight you intend to put
in your drawer. They cost about
twice as much as the threequarter extension slides shown
in Photo A. They are becoming
more widely available, but for

probably have to order from
a woodworking supplier such
t/
d
style of slide is available from
a number of manufacturers.
(Those shown are the
Accuride 3732 series.)
C
K
access, allowing a drawer to
slide approximately 112" out
past the face of the cabinet.
d
as overhanging countertops
from being in the way. Overtravel slides tend to be both
more expensive and have a

drawer access, these Accuride

greater weight capacity than a
comparable full-extension slide.
Center-mount slides are one of

the least obtrusive slide types, but

many drawers just require a single
slide, the cost is about half that
of side-mounted slides. As shown

/

,
made from 18" plywood helped
make the spacing work out for
this Accuride Series 1029 slide.
Photos: Ken Burton
Shim
April/May 2014
57
E
Z

d>hDd^

/

F
>
^
d
K

Wooden Drawer Slides

/
d

Z
t
z

58
April/May 2014
t

Tip Alert

d

/

Slide and drawer sizes

Most drawer slides are
available in even lengths
ranging from 10" to 28" with
a couple odd lengths (15"
and 21") thrown in. They
also carry weight ratings.
To choose the right length,
measure both the depth of your
cabinet and the length (front
to back) of your drawer(s).
Undermount slides are designed
to match the drawer length.
With the other slides, you
typically get slides that are
approximately 1" shorter than
the depth of your cabinet.
As for the weight ratings,
consider what you are going to
put in the drawers and purchase
slides up to the challenge.

will require heavier duty slides
than clothing and linens.
Possibly more important than
drawer length is drawer width,
particularly with side-mounted
slides. Most slides require 12"
of space per slide, which
means you need to make your
drawers 1" narrower than the

Most drawer slides require the drawer box to be narrower than the opening
d
Materials
Other factors to consider include

Most slides are made from steel,
but for outdoor applications, a
few models come in stainless.

(silver) is the most common,
although some manufacturers
include white, off-white, brown,
and black in their offerings.

Still other options include
drawer-motion engineering.
Some slides are available with a
self-closing feature. With these, a
pair of springs take over for the
last couple of inches as you push
the drawer closed, retracting
the drawer into its opening

without allowing it to slam. Some
slides offer a push-to-open
feature. With these, a gentle
push on the drawer face causes
the drawer to pop out of the
cabinet a few inches, eliminating
the need for drawer pulls.
Designing for
Drawer Slides
As mentioned earlier, most
drawer slides take up 12" of space
on either side of a drawer. In
order to conceal these spaces,
youll need to plan on making
your drawer fronts wider than
the boxes. This is accomplished
by making the drawer face a
separate element from the drawer
box itself, as shown in Photo G.
About Our Author

<

z<
EdW
out his website at www.wrwoodworks.com.
April/May 2014
59
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We Design & Fabricate

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Marker Armor Kits

The Marker Armor Kits are designed to hold one marker or highlighter pen and keep its color fresh with every use.
Three different sizes of Sharpie Marker/Highlighter Pens Fine, Extra Fine and Ultra-Fine will t in this handy holder.
Each Marker Armor comes with two different size nib sections, one for the Sharpie Fine and the other to be used with the
Sharpie Extra Fine and Sharpie Ultra-Fine Markers and Highlighters.
158730
158731
158732
158733
Chrome (A)
Woodcraft Gold (B)
Bushings
Replacement Tubes
(B)
(A)
Turning blank sold separately. Markers and highlighters not included.
To Find Your Local Woodcraft Store Or For A Free Catalog, Visit woodcraft.com Or Call 1-800-225-1153. 14WD05H
60
April/May 2014
PEN MAKING
Accessories
TruFit vs. Standard

Shown With Brass Tubes Inserted
Get The Right Fit
MADE
IN USA
TAKE OUR CHALLENGE...

STEP 1: Use a caliper to measure the outside diameter of your brass tube.
STEP 2: Measure the outside diameter of your current drill bit.
STEP 3: Compare to a Whiteside TruFit Drill Bit.
Whiteside Pen Makers Bits - 154023 - 154031

s$ESIGNED3PECIlCALLY&OR7OODCRAFT+ITS
s4IP$ESIGNED4O!LLOW&OR"ETTER!LIGNMENTAnd Clean Exit Hole
s 20-#ONTINUOUS&EED&OROptimum Performance
s0ROVIDES"ETTER&IT!DHESION"ETWEEN"RASS!ND"LANK
s-ADE)N4HE53!&ROM0REMIUM-(IGH 3PEED3TEEL
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154025MM27"
154026MM)
154027 38" (.372")
ULTIMATE
Trim Bits
The ULTIMATE Trim series brings
industrial engineered bits, previously
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154028 32"
154029 31"
154030 33"
154031LETTERh/v
Whiteside Pro Pen Mandrel #2MT - 157776

s.EW$ESIGN!LLOWSFOR&AST%ASY-ANDREL!DJUSTMENT
s&ITS-ORSE4APER!ND0ROMOTES!"ETTER,OCK4O,ATHE
s 0IECE$ESIGN)NCLUDES#HUCK#OLLET.UT-ANDREL!ND"RASS.UT
Available At Woodcraft! For A Free Catalog Or To Find Your Local
Woodcraft Store, Visit woodcraft.com Or Call 800-225-1153.
(A)
(B)
(C)
154275 (A) Flush Trim

154276 (B) Pattern/Plunge
154274 (C) Combination
Mobile
Assembly Cart
Keep drills, nailers, glues,
and hardware close at hand.
Opposite (hardware) side

62
April/May 2014
ood stock and seamless

joinery are important
components in a successful
woodworking project, but
nails, screws, and glues are
the real power players. These
simple items may not warrant
the same fanfare, but without
them, most projects would
fall apart at the seams.
If you have ever wasted an
afternoon hunting for a bottle
of glue or rummaging through
old coffee cans for a handful of
114" pocket screws, then this
cart is for you. Despite its small
footprint, this convenient carryall can store a shops worth of
hardware and adhesives. Whats
more, the sides offer additional
storage space for nailers, drills,
and drivers. And thanks to a
set of 212" casters, you can roll
this assembly assistant into
service when and where its
needed and park it out of the
way when the job is done.
The project requires a
sheet of 34" plywood and a
few strips of 12" plywood or
hardwood and can be built
using portable power tools.
The shelves have been tailored

As an alternative, you can
easily build your own custom
compartments by following
the sidebar on page 65.
Note: This cart is based on
a project that was submitted
to us by Rodney Milen, a
woodworker in Ocoee, Tennessee.
I tweaked his design to make
the cart from a single sheet of
plywood and to accommodate
WoodRiver storage bins.
Opening photos: Chad McClung
Figure 1: Assembly Cart Exploded View
Side Detail
4
44
64

holes to
Slatwall
4
supports
d
together before
laying out shape.
Storage bin
Z
grooves before
shaping sides.
Z^
Tip Alert

screw
If a curve doesnt need to be a

Z

Ws
as handy tracing templates.

Online Extra

d
W'/:
or go toK
W>,>/&Z///
April/May 2014
63
Edge guide

Start of
t

t
d
Build the case
Referring to the Cut

List, and plywood Cutting
Diagram on page 66, cut the
sides (A), top (B), bottom (C),
and center divider (D) from a
sheet of 34" plywood. Cut the
sides to length, but leave the
other parts long for now.
Stack the two sides (A)
together, inside faces out, and
tack them together along the
outer edges with a few 114" brads.
Referring to the Side Detail,

page 63, lay out the edges of the
sides (A) and the dado for the
center divider (D) on one face.
Using a handheld router
equipped with a 2332" plywood
dado bit (you may also take two
passes with a 12" straight bit)
and edge guide, rout the 14"-deep
dado along one face (Photo A)

end and rout the second side.
5 Lay the sides (A) on a piece of

rigid foam. Using a rail-guided
saw or panel-cutting guide, cut
the straight edges (Photo B).
Repeat the cut on the opposite

with a jigsaw. Finally, smooth the
curve as needed using a sanding
block or oscillating spindle sander.
(To see an alternative method
for cutting the sides, check out
the sidebar below.) Drill pocket
Tablesaw Stop Cuts

D

&

d

d
/18" in front
E

Et

t

64
April/May 2014
^
Start of
holes along the top edge, where

shown in the Side Detail.
Measure the height of the
sides (A), subtract the thickness
of the plywood, and trim the
center divider (D) to length. Now,

center divider between the two
sides, and join the parts together
using 212" production screws,
where shown in Figure 1.
Measure the width of the
partially assembled cart, and
then trim the top (B) and bottom

screw holes along both ends of
the bottom. Now attach both
pieces to the sides (A) using
glue and 114" pocket screws.
8 Using a shelf-pin drilling

jig, drill shelf pin holes
where shown in Figure 1
and as shown in Photo C.
Cut the shelves (E, F) to

pin supports on hand when

supports wont affect shelf
length, but bracket-style
Tip Alert
Pin nails do not have enough

together. To correct a minor gap,

a clamp, and then drive the pins.
Simple, Shop-Made Compartments
C
D
arrows ensures that opposing holes
D
Cut 18
Shop-made divided boxes

Divided Boxes

compartments to suit and to
1
8" dado,
Back
1
5
make use of small scraps. To
2 312 2034"
16" deep

then cut a strip of 12
d

surface as shown,
d
compartments, I set one end of
Front
1
the rule mark on one edge and
2 2 2034"
the far end on the 20" mark, and
Assemble with glue
Side

made marks at 4" increments.) Use
3
4 412 1934" 12 2 412"
and 1" pin nails.

To cut matching dadoes in the
Shelf width

Front
and back
gauge. Raise the blade 516", cut
into the fence, and mark the kerf
<
h
Stop
divider lines to set the stop, cut the
&

sides, trim the front and back to
size, and assemble the box with
glue and pin nails. Make dividers
d
from 18
April/May 2014
65
WDiagram
4 48 96" Birch Plywood
^
D
Plywood pads keep the screws

Three lags per caster is plenty.
supports will require you to
trim the shelves by about 18".)
Cut the shelf edging (G) and
bottom edging (H) from 12"-thick
plywood or hardwood strips.
Attach the strips to the shelves
(E, F) using glue and pin nails.
10
Finishing up
Mobile Assembly Cart Cut List

Part
Thickness
Width Length
Qty. Matl
Sides
4"
15"
48"
HP
B*
Top
4"
11"
2214"
HP
C*
4"
15"
20 4"
HP
Center divider
4"
2114"
4714"
HP
Wide shelves
4"
512"
2034"
HP
4"
4 4"
20 4"
HP
2"
2"
2214"
HP
2"
312"
2214"
HP
2"
2 4"
3"
HP
1 Cut the caster pads (I) to size,
Narrow shelves
and then attach them with glue

and pin nails. Next, drill pilot
holes and install the casters
with washers and 516" 1" lag
screws, as shown in Photo D.
Ease all sharp edges with
150 grit paper, and sand all
exposed surfaces through
220 grit. If you choose to do
so, nows the time to apply a

Finally, load up your cart
with adhesives, fasteners, and
fastening tools. (To make your
own compartments, see Simple,
Shop-Made Compartments,
page 65.) You can design your
own tool holders, but I found
slatwall hooks in my home
center that served as perfect
hangers for my cordless drivers
and pneumatic nailers.
Shelf edging

Caster pads
66
Materials: HP=Hardwood Plywood

/^

1.
Whiteside Plywood Dado Bit, 2332"D, 1"L, 14"SH
#24K19
$21.49
2.
WoodRiver 15-hole, 1" Spacing, Shelf Pin Jig
#150721
$20.99
3.
WoodRiver 14" Drill Bit for Shelf Pin Jig
#150722
$17.89
4.
WoodRiver 2 2" Swivel Caster with 4-hole

DW
#152836
$12.99
5.
4^,^^
#27I16
$5.29
6.
tZ^
#158227
$9.99
twoodcraft.com
W
Hardware/Supplies:1214
516516^18
April/May 2014
Super-Simple Projects
Cut-Above Hunting Knife

Customize a sharp handle for a super sharp blade.
By Tom Kreger
very successful hunter

deserves a respectable knife
for skinning, cutting tent
line, slicing jerky, and for the
countless other tasks that they
may encounter in the great
outdoors. To have one with an
eye-grabbing handle that you
fashioned in the shopnow
thats special. Starting with
this popular hunting knife kit,
Ill show you how to cut the
wooden scales that make up the

blades tang using epoxy and
Drop Point Knife Kit

d^
includes: 1) a leather sheath;
2
2) a steel tang that measures
838" long with a 334" blade;
3
3) aluminum assembly pins.
(Ill only use two pins in the

Besides that, you need epoxy to weld the scales to the tang.)

the scales for a dazzling look.

fast, easy on the wallet, and
Opening photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Project photos: Sandy Andrews
personally rewarding. Besides the

kit, all youll need is a small piece

and a few basic tools and supplies.
April/May 2014
67
Prep the materials
1 For safe handling, wrap
Shape and apply

the scales
the blade portion with a few

layers of paper towel and
electrical tape (Photo A).
Resaw and plane a 1 112
12" piece of hardwood into
two 38"-thick strips. Crosscut
the matching ends of the strips
at 412" for the scale blanks.
scale blanks you want facing

to the outside. Mark one left
and the other right. Make sure
the inside faces of the blanks

Lay the tang on the inside
face of a scale blank, and clamp
1 Decide which side of the
it in place with a small clamp or

locking vise-grip pliers, centering
the jaws between the holes on the
tang. Next, trace the tangs outline
on the wood (Photo B).
(For spot-on alignment, drill
the holes in one scale blank
as described in Step 3 before
outlining and drilling holes in
the remaining scale blank.)
Using a drill press and a 532"
bit, drill through the scale blank,
guiding off the two outside holes
in the tang (Photo C). (I like to
steady the tang and scale blank on
a drilling block to ensure the bit
enters the wood at 90.) Repeat
the outlining/drilling sequence
with the remaining scale blank.

scales to shape, cutting just
outside the lines (Photo D).
When cutting the scales, use
a notched pushstick to keep

12" beyond the
pin hole thats closest to the
blade on both scales. Using this
line as a guide, round over the
front ends of both scale blanks.

this area without marring the

through 400 grit sandpaper.
Clean or scuff-sand the handle
portion of the tang to establish
good bonding surfaces. Now,
insert two pins in the holes drilled
in one of the scales. Mix up a
batch of epoxy, and coat the inside
Figure 1: Knife Exploded View

8" 440C stainless
steel tang
334" blade
32" hole
Scale
8 1 412"
Aluminum pins
68
April/May 2014
E
face of one scale, working some
onto the pins. Place the handle
portion of the tang onto the pins
and scale. Coat the inside face
of the remaining scale, and add
it to the knife handle assembly
(Photo E). Now clamp the aligned

small pair of C-clamps (Photo F).
Let the epoxy cure overnight.
^
1 Saw off any protruding pin

with the surrounding wood.
Clamp the blade end of the
knife in a metalworking bench
vise. (I used scrap pieces of
leather to protect the blade from
marring.) Using a random-orbit
sander with an 80 grit disc, shape
the knife handle (Photo G). Round
over the edges evenly all around
until it feels right in the hand, and

Reposition the knife, and
then use a rotary carving tool
and 1"-diameter sanding

drum to sand the concave

(Photo H). Keep the drum
moving constantly to prevent
burning and gouging the tang.
Finish-sand the scales through
400 grit and then rub down the
wood with #0000 steel wool.
Apply a stain and protective

apply Rustoleum Wood Stain
Ultimate, Wheat, to make the
grain pop [Photo I].) I then used
#0000 steel wool to knock down
any raised grain (being careful
^W<<
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twoodcraft.com
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d>&tandyleatherfactory.com
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PLUS hz/E''h/
not to remove the stain) and

of Tru-Oil Gun Stock Finish.
Remove the tape and
paper towel from the
blade. Youre done.
&>
/
&K^&
d
www.tandyleatherfactory.com
About Our

d
<>
^

,

April/May 2014
69
Well-Stocked Shop
>
Products you need to stay unstuck

n woodworking, running like

a well-oiled machine is more

we all know, rust, sawdust, and
nameless gunk threaten to seize

moment solution, but the wrong

WWK

tight cracks and under rust to

70
April/May 2014

much oil can act as a magnet,
White Lithium Grease

These heavy-bodied lubricants
stick and stay stuck, making them
the go-to lubes for components
that sustain medium- to highloads, including gears, axles,
springs, and shafts. For easily
accessible areas, use the tube:
apply a thin coat of grease with
a small brush. Use the spray to
get the spots that you cant reach
without major disassembly.
Although it sticks around

longer than other types of
lubricants, grease isnt a
cure-all. Besides being messy

lubricants tacky nature makes
it notorious for collecting
debris. Once a part becomes
caked up with sawdust, youll
need to clean off the crud with
a degreaser and re-lubricate.
Dry Lubricants
Most so-called dry lubes
actually go on wet; however, once
the solvent evaporates, they leave

doesnt attract dust. Because
dry lubes stay where theyre
sprayed and dont stain wood or

machine tops and saw blades. (To
control overspray, use the stick
lube on scrollsaw and bandsaw
blades.) By reducing friction and
repelling pitch, these lubricants
can extend blade and bit life and

help produce smoother cuts.
Compared to other lubricants,
most dry lubes are lightweights.
Although they dont stand up to
loads as well as other products,
theyre easy to reapply when
workpieces start to stick.
By themselves, dry lubes repel
moisture but dont resist rust.
Some manufacturers spike their
products with anti-corrosion
additives. Check the can.
Slippery Specialists
Some products are just too slick

Adding one or both of these

might help you free yourself from

^

and is safe for incidental food
contact. Developed in the 1940s

established healthy track records

Photos: Larry-Hamel Lambert
sashes. Listed as a thixotropic gel

^

>

A newcomer to the woodworking
W'

equally suited for the workshop.

W'

/

h
the heat-resistant
lubricant can also be

for drilling metals.
April/May 2014
71
Well-Stocked Shop
At-a-Glance
>
Guide
Machinery
Apply dry lube to miter
slots to keep gauges
sliding
smoothly.
Spray a couple of coats of

dry lube to the metal tops

defend them from rust.
Apply a fresh coat when
the stock starts to drag.
Use this visual guide to

quickly determine whether
you have what it takes to
keep your shop humming or

Work grease into the worm gears

or try a high-wear dry lube. Use
an aerosol for tough-to-reach

trunnions. Steer clear of belts.

,d
+
h
rust-encrusted threads

apply a drop or two of a
general-purpose oil.
Apply a few drops of

a high-temp dry lube
to keep bearings from
seizing and seal out
damaging moisture.
Z

t
slickness plus corrosion

up to a dry lube.
72
April/May 2014
Helping You Put It All Together
Featuring hands-on
classes for all skill
levels taught
by nationally
known craftsmen
including
Phil Lowe
Will Neptune
Steve Latta
Peter Galbert
and more!
T-88
This structural epoxy adhesive
with extended working time makes
assembling components easy.
Use on wood, metal and most plastics
for a bond to last for generations.
Find a dealer near you at: systemthree.com

Or call 800.333.5514
2014 System Three Resins, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
N
EW
FOLDER KITS also available
DESK KNIFE/
LETTER OPENER KIT
LINER-LOCK
FOLDER BLADE KIT
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April/May 2014
73
WoodSense
Spotlight on Ipe
d
By Pete Stephano
Technical consultant: Larry Osborn
lthough its often

frustrating to woodworkers,
the worlds lumber marketers
of imported stock try to
make wood choices easier for
customers by creating a trade
name with a familiar ring

common name. Take the subject
of this piece, ipe (pronounced

Tabebuia subspecies (spp),
which may also include
Handroanthus spp, applies
to a few other woods with
nearly indistinguishable
characteristics. These include
lapacho, Brazilian walnut,
and guayacan. Ipe, pau lope,
ironwood, and Brazilian walnut
make up the trade names.
Due to ipes toughness and long
life outdoors, the popularity of
this attractive and dark olivebrown wood continues to rise
along with its availability. Its
use in construction, however,
dates back decades. The Coney
Island Boardwalk, which
opened in 1923, was made of
ipe. It has supported the foot

the weight of garbage trucks
and rescue vehicles. In 1960,
it survived hurricane Donna
relatively unscathed while
nearby concrete was mangled.
74
History in woodworking
Durable and very hard, ipe has
been and still is employed for
everything from bridges to
boardwalks, decks to docks,

ipe veneer, which resembles a
dark Ceylon satinwood,
becomes highly expensive
doors and other millwork.
Among the heaviest and
most dense of commercial
hardwoods, ipe also has a

given to iron and steel!
In North America,
woodworkers principally
employ the beautiful wood
in decks, railings, outdoor

Because of its weight and

complex joints, such as dovetail
and mortise-and-tenon. You

sites that sell lines of simply
constructed ipe furniture
for use both in the home and
outside on the deck and patio.
Its a fact that

Ipe weighs 69-80 lbs./
cubic foot. Its so dense
that it sinks in water.
April/May 2014
Where the wood

comes from
Where it grows best, in the
Amazon region of South
America, ipe is king of the
jungle, towering 140' or more
with trunk diameters to 6'. Logs
are normally available in 100'
lengths. Although Amazongrown ipe is larger, the tree
naturally grows throughout
Brazil and has been planted
in plantations there and in
adjoining countries, as well as
Central America and Mexico.
This commercially valuable
tree grows in many types of
landformsfrom marshes to
riverbanks and ridge topsand
in such abundance that it is
not an endangered species.
What youll pay

You probably wont see ipe at
smaller lumberyards and home

selection of boards and milled
parts at stores specializing

products and at online sites.
Ipe lumber has few grades,
with Select & Better (S&B) the
best. Three-quarter inch thick
nominal boards in widths to
10" surfaced two sides (S2S)

Decking is offered in two grade
categories: clear heart, the best,

and rustic (with knots and color
variations) at about 35% less.
All decking material is sold by
the lineal foot, with 34" S4S 14s

for architectural applications, is
available online. Here, youll

depending on the degree
44 post
4/4 surfaced
deck board
How to select
the best stock
Ipe is generally straight and
close grained, although you
some mottle and lace

the interlocked grain, coupled
with the woods hardness,
will make the boards

Heartwood color varies from
reddish brown to yellowish olive
brown to a dark blackish brown,
and contrasting stripes are not
unusual. However, the wood
obtained from other trees in the
genus or from differing growing
conditions can offer stock that
ranges from tan to a dark grey!
So the best advice here is that
when buying ipe in quantity,
make sure it all comes from
the same imported shipment to
ensure similar color and grain.
Also note that ipe, a jungle wood,
doesnt fare well in hot, arid
climates, or indoors, where it
can dry out and crack. Air-dried
ipe with a moisture content
of 14% to 18% has proven
more stable than kiln-dried.
Working ipe in the shop

Ipe may be one of the most

hardness and density resists
sawing, planing, jointing, and
Ipe samples photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert
24
routing. So if you want to do

more than minimal machining,
go to high quality carbide cutters
and high-speed drill bits. Predrill pilot holes to avoid splitting.

sawing and light passes to
remove material at the jointer or
thickness planer. The interlocked
grain can tear out when planing,
so do it at a slight angle.

glue up. Preparing mating
surfaces with a swipe of strong
solvent such as lacquer thinner
will remove extractives. Then
use an adhesive with a long
open time so that it may absorb
properly in the dense wood.
(Note: In its traditional outdoor
use, mechanical fasteners
are the norm, not glue.)
Ipe sands relatively easily for
such a hard wood and doesnt
splinter, but the resulting dust
may cause an allergic reaction.
Always wear a dust mask and
long sleeves when sanding, and
be sure to wash up afterwards.
Most ipe projects (decks)

to sunlight will lighten ipe to a
pleasing grey, but color can be
refurbished with a high-pressure
wash. To reestablish the original

color, you can also use ipe oil.
The sawn ends of ipe boards
can check if left unsealed. Here,
consider a wax-based sealer,
and reapply as needed.
Ipe Quick Take

Cost
Moderate
Weight
More than a third

heavier than red oak
Hardness
Twice as hard as

harder than teak
Stability
High
Strength
High
Durability High
Toxicity
W
Tool Type
Power tools with

Common
Uses
Flooring, outdoor
structures and
furniture, tool
handles and
other turned
objects, veneer
April/May 2014
75
Ad Index
PRODUCT
Adhesives
Website
Page
Nexabond
www.nexabond.com
21
Satellite City
www.caglue.com
23
Titebond
www.titebond.com/InstantBond
BC

Berea Hardwoods
Easy Wood Tools
Ring Master Lathe
www.woodcraft.com
www.easywoodtools.com
www.ringmasterlathe.com
Freud
www.freudtools.com/Quadra-Cut
PS Wood
www.pswood.com
78
Whiteside Machine
www.woodcraft.com
61
t^
www.katools.com
16
www.forrestblades.com
11
IFC

King Arthurs Tools

American Fabric Filter
Oneida
www.americanfabricfilter.com
www.oneida-air.com
60
20 & 76
,d
Thomas Flinn & Co.
www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk
23
DD
Lignomat
Wagner Meters
www.wood-moisture.com
www.wagnermeters.com
22
11
Wd
Kreg
www.kregtool.com
19
www.general.ca
www.grizzly.com
www.lagunatools.com
www.rikontools.com
www.sawstop.com/upgrade
www.teknatool.com
15
2-3
5
IBC
7
21
Wd
General International
Grizzly
Laguna Tools
Rikon
Sawstop
Nova
School//
CT Valley School of WW www.schoolofwoodworking.com
Furniture Medic
www.furnituremedicfranchise.com
The American Woodshop www.wbgu.org/americanwoodshop
76
73
12
19
60
17
78
ts
Cook Woods
Northwest Bamboo
West Penn Hardwoods
Woodfinder
Forrest Mfg.
10 Square
d^
Aqua Coat
Big Gator Tools
Blokkz
Brand-First
Brusso
Camp Danbee
Create-A-Bed
DMT
Earlex
Fortune
Grex
Fred Wissen Designs
General Tools
Howard Products
National Hardware
Radarcarve
Robert Sorby
RoyalWood Ltd.
Sarge
System Three
Tarter Woodworking
Tormek
Touchstone Home Products
Touch-Up Solutions
Watco
Woodcraft Franchise
Woodcraft Magazine
Woodcraft Supply
D
www.cookwoods.com
www.nwbamboo.com
www.westpennhardwoods.com
www.woodfinder.com
www.aquacoat.com
www.biggatortools.com
www.blokkz.com
www.brand-first.com
www.brusso.com
www.campdanbee.com
www.wallbed.com
www.dmtsharp.com
www.earlex.com
www.woodcraft.com
www.grextools.com
www.ptownstubbie.com
www.woodcraft.com/generaltools
www.howardproducts.com
www.natman.com
www.radarcarve.net
www.robert-sorby.co.uk
www.royalwoodltd.com
www.woodcraft.com
www.systemthree.com
www.tarterwoodworking.com
www.tormek.com
www.touchstonehomeproducts.com
wecare@touchupsolutions.com
www.rustoleum.com
www.woodcraftfranchise.com
www.woodcraft.com
www.woodcraft.com
14
78
76
78
78 & 79
11
79
78
10
79
79
23
1
28
22
78
21
60
79
79
10
79
73
73
79
10
78
78
13
9
13
77 & 80
Foot
Project
Packs Available...
Domestics & Exotics
Purpleheart,
Zebrawood,
Paduak, Bocote,
Curly Soft Maple...
and many other species
including Bubinga
and Canarywood!
1
8", 14", 38" and 34" thickness
by random widths (3-8") wide
and random lengths (18-36").
www.westpennhardwoods.com
230 S. Clinton Street
Olean NY 14760
Phone: 716-373-6434
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QUALITY WOODWORKING TOOLSs

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Getting started turning pen kits has never been simpler. Make your selection from our four styles
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Kits are packaged with two pen kits one gold and one chrome, the proper drill bit, bushings and
replacement tubes. Once you have turned both kits, the organizer tray makes a great pen parts
storage container. Keep your pen kits, bushings or any small parts organized and secure.
158356 Wall Street II Pen Kit (Shown)

158357 Cigar Pen Kit
158358 7mm Slimline Pen Kit

158359 European Pen Kit
For A Free Catalog Or To Find Your Local Woodcraft Store, Visit woodcraft.com Or Call 800-225-1153. 14WD05P2
For Information On Woodcraft Retail Franchise Opportunities, Visit woodcraftfranchise.com
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April/May 2014
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Order Via Our Website at:
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dThe Market
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NAILS, TACKS & BRADS

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Wood Carving Duplicators
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April/May 2014
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Since 1928, Woodcraft has been committed to providing quality tools, supplies and advice
to our customers. From providing in-store classes and demonstrations to funding educational woodworking programming, Woodcraft has remained steadfast in our commitment
to the beginner, intermediate and experienced woodworker for over 80 years running.
R
OB
COSMAN
The American
Woodshop
YOUR HAND TOOL COACH
www.wbgu.org/americanwoodshop
www.thomasjmacdonald.com
Woodcraft is pleased to continue sponsorship

of The American Woodshop with Scott and Suzy
Phillips, now in its 21st season on PBS.
We are also proud to provide major funding for

the two-time Daytime Emmy Award-nominated
public television series and recipient of four Telly
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Season 21 The American Originals Freeform

Designs and Hand Skill Solutions will feature 13
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Techniques include:
turning, joinery,
tool tune-ups,
making jigs,
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Season four projects include a Bent Lamination

Chair (season opener), Pine Chest (17th century
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Bookstand, Birdhouse (three actually), Baseball
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Photo
Pub Table, Kitchen
Anthony Tieuli
for WGBH
Scraps, and
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Garden
Foundation
Bench.
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Woodcraft is privileged to partner with Rob
Cosman,Your Hand Tool Coach, featured on
the educational handtoolworkshop.com.
Rob Cosmans daily online episodes teach the
proper use of hand tools and power tools in a
motivational and educational way. Hand-tool
demonstrations are Tuesdays and Thursdays,
and power tools are demonstrated Mondays,
Wednesdays and Fridays.
Purchase any WoodRiver Hand Plane,
and receive a one-month FREE
subscription to Robs online
workshop.
Get your tools out!
Woodcraft Stores In Your Area:

Alabama
Birmingham/Pelham:
205-988-3600
Arizona
Phoenix/Chandler:
480-539-9663
Tucson:
520-742-9663
California
Orange County/
Fountain Valley:
714-899-1422
Sacramento:
916-362-9664
San Francisco Bay
Area:
Dublin:
925-875-9988
San Carlos:
650-631-9663
Ventura:
805-658-9663
Colorado
Colorado Springs:
719-266-9889
Denver:
303-290-0007
Loveland:
970-292-5940
Connecticut
Hartford/Manchester:
860-647-0303
Norwalk:
Woodworker's Club
203-847-9663
Delaware
Wilmington/New Castle:
302-323-0400
Florida
Jacksonville:
904-721-9796
Orlando:
407-260-5002
Tampa/Clearwater:
727-532-6888
Georgia
Atlanta:
770-587-3372
Hawaii
Honolulu:
808-841-9876
Idaho
Boise:
208-338-1190
Illinois
Woodridge:
630-435-9663
Indiana
Indianapolis:
317-578-3400
Kansas
Kansas City/Lenexa:
913-599-2800
Kentucky
Lexington:
859-231-9663
Louisville:
502-671-0900
Maryland
Rockville:
Woodworker's Club
301-984-9033
Massachusetts
Boston/Woburn:
781-935-6414
Boston Walpole:
508-668-2413
West Springeld:
413-827-0244
Michigan
Detroit Area:
Canton:
734-981-6808
Sterling Heights:
586-268-1919
Grand Rapids:
616-957-9663
Saginaw:
989-249-6662
Minnesota
Minneapolis/
Bloomington:
952-884-3634
Missouri
St. Louis/
Maryland Heights:
314-993-0413
New Hampshire
Portsmouth/Newington:
603-433-6116
New York
Rochester:
585-292-9690
North Carolina
Charlotte/Matthews:
704-847-8300
Raleigh:
919-781-1911
Ohio
Cincinnati:
513-407-8371
Cleveland/Oakwood:
440-232-7979
Columbus:
614-273-0488
Dayton:
937-438-1282
Toledo:
419-389-0560
Oklahoma
Oklahoma City:
405-748-8844
Tulsa:
918-384-0100
Oregon
Eugene:
541-685-0677
Portland/Tigard:
503-684-1428
Pennsylvania
Allentown:
610-351-2966
Harrisburg:
717-939-6770
Philadelphia/
Downingtown:
610-873-5660
South Carolina
Greenville:
864-627-8760
Tennessee
Knoxville:
865-539-9330
Nashville:
615-599-9638
Texas
Austin:
512-407-8787
Dallas/Addison:
972-422-2732
Fort Worth:
682-334-1025
Houston:
281-880-0045
South West Houston:
281-988-9449
San Antonio:
210-545-5885
Utah
Salt Lake City/
South Jordan:
801-566-5652
Virginia
Leesburg:
703-737-7880
Norfolk:
757-466-1166
Richmond:
804-355-3945
Roanoke:
540-366-7144
Springeld:
703-912-6727
Washington
Seattle:
206-767-6394
Spokane:
509-892-9663
West Virginia
Parkersburg:
304-485-4050
Wisconsin
Appleton/Fox Cities:
920-730-9663
Madison:
608-273-8868
Milwaukee/New Berlin:
262-785-6770
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For A Free Catalog Or To Find Your Local Woodcraft Store, Visit woodcraft.com Or Call 800-225-1153. 14WD05P
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K& p

Projects, Techniques, and Products

LESSONS & PRODUCTS

VOL. 10/NO. 58 APRIL/MAY 14

Whats The Secret To Flawless Edge

SCAN WITH MOBILE DEVICE

Watch Demo Now!

For A Smooth Sanded Finish...

U.S. Patent No. 8,899,252

Now Quadra-Cut 4 Cutter Design is Available in 1/4" Shanks

Classical Cove & Bead

Ideal for Any Project that

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MADE IN ISO 9001 FACTORY!

CYCLONE DUST COLLECTOR

Motor: 112 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase,

Motor: 2 HP, 240V, single-phase, 12 Amps

12" JOINTER/PLANER COMBINATION MACHINES

Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase, TEFC

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Build this hardworking organizer

Take a stab at knife making using hardwood scrap,

Hardworking Lazy Susan

Complement the octagonal picnic table or other

Cover photo: Jim Osborn

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