GUIDE | Paros

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Paros: The heart of the Aegean

With its beautiful lacework coastline, wonderful architectural specimens, a vibrant gastronomy
scene, enchanting hinterland and traditional Cycladic character, this island caters to all visitors.

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BY FOTIS VALLATOS
PHOTOS: PERIKLES MERAKOS

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GUIDE | Paros

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PARIKIA
The islands capital and main port features small traditional houses,
stately mansions, fountains, bridges and alleyways that lend it a special
charm. Behind the bustle of the port is the old town, built around the islands Venetian castle. The tower was partially constructed with materials from an ancient Greek temple, while small churches and houses have
been built into the fortification walls. One of the main landmarks is Panagia Ekatontapyliani the Church of a Hundred Doors as well as the
Archaeological Museum of Paros, which showcases finds from the Neolithic, Archaic and Classical periods. The Byzantine Museum has a wonderful collection of icons, while the so-called Valley of the Butterflies, 5
kilometres south of Parikia, where tiger moths gather to mate, is a sight
to behold from mid-June through end-August.
At Aegean Deli (tel. 22840-24.974), you can tuck into delicious local
mezedes or simply pick up goodies produced on the islands. Interesting
fusion food can be had at Little Green Rocket (close to the Post Office,
tel. 22840-27.560), while just outside Parikia is one of the best restaurants in the Cyclades, Thea (Pounta, tel. 22840-91.220), serving authentic
Asia Minor cuisine and a good selection of fine wines.
Back in town, a good choice for coffee in a relaxed setting with soft music
is Evinos, while Sativa offers great margaritas and Idea serves energising breakfasts made using local products. For delicious pastries, homemade frozen yoghurt with sweet quince preserve and other Parian products, head to Tserki. Also check out Yria if youre looking for gifts or souvenirs such as jewellery, ceramics and other lovely decorative items.
NAOUSSA
Naoussa is best known for its little port, one of the most-photographed
spots on the island and among the prettiest in the Aegean, with its legendary sunsets.

/ Kolymbithres

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GUIDE | Paros
/ Parikia

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/ Fanouris Petropoulos, one of
the last bagpipe makers in Paros

Take some time to visit the Mycenaean Acropolis on Koukounari Hill

and the half-submerged Venetian Fortress at the old port.
For food, try Mario (tel. 22840-51.047), which serves traditional dishes with a modern twist, such as shrimp souvlaki with wild radish sauce.
Le Sud (tel. 22840-51.547) has a beautiful courtyard and specialises in
French-Mediterranean cuisine, Mediterraneo (tel. 22840-53176) is renowned for its squid ink risotto, Kargas (tel. 22840-53.503) arguably
serves the best souvlaki in the Aegean, and the juicy offerings at Mario
Burger (tel. 22840-52495) are made with top-notch local ingredients.
For coffee or drinks, Sommaripa Consolato serves superb cocktails accompanied by a wonderful view, while Agosta, Sante, Big Blue, Linardo
and Les Amis are pleasant, popular watering holes. The Arsenis Delicatessen sells select, locally produced cheeses and wines and quality fresh
nuts and dried herbs can be found at Sporus. For jewellery inspired by
traditional Byzantine craftsmanship, visit O Dromos Einai i Hara, while
Tonos specialises in decorative items. If its a pair of traditional Greek
leather sandals youre after, LAtelier is the place to find them.
There are several pretty coves to stop for a dip off the road to Ampelas,

GUIDE | Paros

/ The entrance to the Cave of Antiparos

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Chryssi Akti (Gold Coast)

/ Lefkes

the loveliest of which is Lefkos Gremos (White Cliff). When you reach
the village, stop for a seafood meal at Tholari, where the fish come direct from the family boat. You can also explore the countryside on horseback with Thanasis (tel. 6998-413.813), who has a farm and riding centre
on the Ampelas road.
THE ENCHANTING NORTH
Just outside Naoussa you will find Kolymbithres beach, known for its
granite rock formations and underwater caves. For a lunch break, head to
Vigla (tel. 22840-51.710) and try the roast pork and chick pea stew. The
road continues past the boatyard and the Monastery of Ai-Yiannis Detis to
end at the stunning beach of Monastiri with its turquoise waters, as well
as the beginning of the path leading down to the lovely beaches of Perikopetra and Tourkou Ammos.
The pebbly stretch at Xifara on the northeastern coast is also home
to Siparos (tel. 22840-52.785), an excellent seafood restaurant which
serves dishes such as Paros shrimp, fish tartare marinated in lime juice,
and linguine with clams. Just after Xifara, a left turn on the road will lead
you to the peaceful Langeri (popular with nudists), while going straight
ahead will bring you to the two beaches of Santa Maria, with golden sand
dunes and shady cedars.

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HINTERLAND VILLAGES
Often described as the most beautiful village on the island, right in its centre, Lefkes is a veritable gallery of Cycladic folk architecture and pretty
cobbled alleyways.

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GUIDE | Paros
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Visit the Church of Agia Triada, which has a beautiful marble templon
screen, as well as the main square, where Maria Panteleon (tel. 2284041.658), one of the islands few remaining traditional weavers, makes
beautiful textiles, rugs and other items. Also lovely are the villages of
Marmara, Marpissa and Prodromos, with whitewashed alleyways shaded
by explosions of bougainvillea, pretty courtyards, beautiful houses from
the 16th and 17th centuries and old churches. At Prodromos village make
a stop at Tsitsanis (tel. 22840-41.375) for delicious rustic fare or at Ta
Volta for a refreshment. Authentic Neapolitan cuisine is served at BuonVento (Marpissa, tel. 22840-42.694), where the speciality is spaghetti alla Nerano. The Italian proprietors have a traditional country house which
they have turned into a small folk art museum.
EAST COAST
Chryssi Akti (Gold Coast) is a big sandy beach and a surfers paradise, with
attractive cafs near the shore, best of which is the Golden Beach Hotel
bar. The next beach, Tsardakia, is also popular with surfers. Nearby are
Logaras and Pounta, the latter known for its lively beach bar. The best
beaches near Marpissa are Molos (it is out of the wind and can be reached
by an easy footpath) and Kalogeros, where you can indulge in a bit of DIY
skin care using the clay deposits in the rocks. Further south, at Drios, gastropub Green Project (tel. 22840-41.388) serves snacks and cocktails in
idyllic surroundings. Then there are the beautiful beaches of Farangas
and Tripiti (out of the wind with crystalline waters and abundant shade),
as well as Lolantonis, which is shaded by tamarisk trees and has turquoise
waters. There is a very good taverna here, also named Lolantonis (tel.
22840-42.6790).

GUIDE | Paros

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/ Marpissa

/ Molos

ANTIPAROS
The small island southwest of Paros has found a wonderful balance between the alternative, hippie lifestyle that made it famous and the cosmopolitan crowds it has been drawing over the past few years. The islands
best beaches are Soros, Apantima, the islet of Despotiko, the rugged Faneromeni and the impressive Megala Monastria.
For food and cocktails in lovely bohemian surroundings, head to Beach
House (Apantima, tel. 22840-64.000). Pavlos (tel. 22840-61.420) makes
great fish and has a pretty courtyard. Excellent meat dishes and pies are
served at Peramataki (Soros, tel. 22840-61.211), while Lollos at the port
(tel. 22840-61.215, 6981-968.699) has superb pizza and homemade lasagne. For tasty fresh fish, head for Captain Pipinos in Ai-Giorgis (tel.
22840-21.823), while Oikogeniako has delicious souvlaki. Breakfast at
Margaritas is a must, while Vickys makes homemade Italian ice cream
and gelato. Elia on the port is a modern caf serving snacks and cocktails,
while the most popular watering holes in the centre are the Boogaloo
cocktail bar, wine bar Tabula Rasa, the funky Cicada and Yam, a lovely
bar-restaurant that also has a great playground for children. Legendary
old-school disco La Luna has an open-air dance floor. Looking for gifts or
souvenirs? Ifadi sells traditional handwoven textiles. Mariliza sales handmade leather sandals, bags and accessories. Alargino has beautiful gold
and silver jewellery featuring semiprecious stones.