safes" ee ed Ce od il er tol wes lOlne rirst Crusac Brea ete as) OPENING A BOXFUL OF HISTORY (MALAWI: FACES OF A QUIET LAND PT aL eS TP eda dLNATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SEPTEMBER 1989 The Shakers’ Brief Eternity x At their 19th-century crest, the Shakers numbered 4,000 bel 4 spiritual perfect ‘he purity of their faith mart ers inal life devoted to achiev ion. fh fewer than a en members remain, beauty of r work ipendure. Cathy grapher Sam Abell capture their spirit Retracing the First Crusade.» 1 of Pope Urban 1 to reclaim the secre dfrey of Bouillon ‘ope in 1096. Tim Severin travels g their route—gaining Heeding the infidels,” n northern s by horseback c new insights into the crivsadlérs' quest: Photographs by Peter Essick. A Bygone Century Comes to Light 15 bilia relating to the centennial of George Washington's first inauguratio after a hundred y ing contents that prove the of a preliminary Robert M. Poole reports, Malawi: Faces of a Quiet Land», Poul The: rice to find octogenari Banda keeping s operied racy throt Himalaya Sanctuary» ing beauty of Nepal, an innovative nature pre: ing the locul people Amid the breatht serve safeguards fragile environment, Invol thor-photographer € hey to its success, 5 Samurai Aphids: Survival Under Siege ws Within a placid and unobtrusive in: © Orient produce g. Their home: up, some aphid spe ste to defe their wThe boundary be 1 heave nd earth under a veil of mist that The Shakers’ By CATHY NEWMANBriet EternityISTER MILDRED BARKER, 92, of Sabbathday Lake, Maine, tells the story with an exasperation born of suf- fering too many fools: ‘The man, she recalls, whisked through the small muscum at the Shaker village, admiring the spare, ele gant furniture. “Too bad no Shakers are left,” he chucked. “t'm left,” she snapped. She is tiny, gray, fierce, with dark, piercing eyes behind wite~ rimmed giasses. She endures, with fewer than a dozen others in Maine and New Hampshire, as steward of a religious society founded some two centuries ago. In 1845 Shaker membership totaled nearly 4,000 in 18 communities from Maine to Kentucky. ‘The final amen has yet to be murmured; those left remind us that they are not dead yet. But nostalgia intrudes. We see them as if looking through a stereopticon from an attic trank_ ‘The reality is granite tough. Shakerism is religion, demanding, uncompromising. As a tenet of faith, Shakers are celibate; their fife, communal, Who would accept such sacrifice? Those whe had heard the trumpets of salvation. “I found perfect heaven," wrote one convert In aglorious, if impossible, quest the Shakers committed them- selves to perfection. Like other utopians, they wanted to create heaven on earth. But the dream dangled just beyond reach, a reminder that, like all mankind, they were only human, “In the spring of 1780, I heard of a strange people living above Albany, who said they served God day and night and did. net com- mitsin, ..." Soa contemporary named Thankful Barce wrote of her first encounter with the people known as Shakers, so-called ‘because they trembled from head to foot in religious transports; ‘Their leader was Mother Ann Lee, “Her countenance appeared bright and shining, an angel of glory,” Thankful Barce wrote. “As Tsat by the side of her, one of her hands, while in motion, frequently touched my arm; and at every touch, .. Tinstantly felt the power of God... ." A blacksmith's daughter born in Manchester, England, in 1736, one of eight children, Ann Lee could neither read nor write. She married a blacksmith, bore and lost four children, Tormented, she swung from despair to visions of glory, Joining a sect of religiaus reformers known as the Shaking Quakers, later to be known as Shakers, she became their leader. Tn her 30s she had a vision of Adam and Eve in intercourse. To her this was the original sin, ‘To be saved, humans must be celi- bate, recapture innocence, and emulate Christ's humble life, Only then could each soul experience its own Second Coming. Widely persecuted, she and eight believers set sail in 1774 for America and settled at Niskayuna, which they also called Water- vliet, eight miles northwest of Albany, New York Mother Ann believed she represented the second appearance of the Christ spirit; the sect's formal title is the United Society of Believers in Christ's Second Appearing. Haly Mother Wisdom was the female nature of God, The idea of a deity with dual aspects, male and female, placed women on equal footing with men With her flock she combed the spiritual pastures of New Photographer Sas ABELL has contributed to a dozen GrocRarHic articles, including “The World of Tolstoy” and another on wild rivers. 304 “SHE IS THE MOST PERFECT ‘Shaker I have known,” Sister Frances Carr, standing, says of ‘Sister Mildred Barker, seated. The two belong to the lust working Shaker community at Sabbathday Lake, Maine. In 1774 Shakerisin’s founder, Mother Ann Lee, leader of a splinter group) of English Protestants, fled persecution and'sailed to America with: eight followers. Settling at Niskayuna, New York, she trav eled around New England, preaching that salvation was open to all If the reward was (great, 50 was the cost. Shaker belief demanded a morally per~ fect life patternedt after Christ; including celibacy, obedience to elifers, and confession of sins, Says Sister Mildred: “Alt the Shaker does is done in the eye of eternity.” National Geographic, September 1080England, barvesting converts, But she died in 1784, without ever secing-a Shaker village established. In the following decavles Shak- ets made the step from scattered converts to settled communities, ‘By 1800, 11 communities had formed. Soon after, the Shakers pushed west, founding two communities in Kentucky, four in Ohio, and one in Indiana. The gospel was spreading. A plain marble stone marks Mother Ann’s grave. The Water- vliet Shaker Cemetery abuts a baseball stadium, built several years ‘ago over protests from surviving Shakers. Now the crack of ball against bat punctuates summer nights, “Tdan’t suppose the ball field does anyone-any harm,” Martha, Hulings sighed, looking-at the ranks of headstones. Martha, now a teacher in Kingsport, Tennessee, spent her childhood with the Watervliet Shakers. “I felt more secure here than anywhere else,”* she said. “It’s probably the only love I've known.” She is 74. Nearly 69 years have passed since the couple who had adopted her, but couldn't cope, left her with the Shakers. We ‘Tres OVAi. nox with its delicate swallowtail joints has become practically emblematic of Shaker design. These belong to Pleasant Hill. The carefully aligned tacks are made of cop: er, not iron that might rust anid mar the wood. Also the ‘work of Shaker hands and heart, a song in the apirit of faith sold for $450 at auction. ‘So too fine Shaker chair, with its stim, spare lines, may be worth tens of thausands of dale lars—to the dismay of living Shakers, who resent the focus om the material at the expense of the spiritual. “People don't see the chair aa consecration," said Sister Mildred. Thomes Merton, priest and Writer, was ore Who did. "The peculiar grace of a Shaher chair is due to the fact that it was crossed the road to the South Family property where she grew up. és ol Suddenly she wasa child. “That was my room on the third erecta floor,” she pointed. “remember staring out that window when T came and sit on it." was sent to bed early.” ‘When the Watervliet Shaker community closed in 1938, the South Family property was sold and the clapboard dwelling house cutup into apartments by the new owner. ‘The woman who lives in Martha's old room invited us in. “Ever see any Shaker ghosts?" I asked. “They say @ white spirit lives here," she replied. Martha paled. “Oh, my goodness, that must be Pauline." ‘The grapevine that hugged the side of the trustees’ house was uprooted years ago, but she remembers, “Lpicked a bunch of grapes for Pauline, the woman who cared for me,” she said. “I ran to lay them in her lap. “Don't you know these are not ours?” Pauline frowned. ‘They're the family's. To take them is to steal.” The Shakers’ Brief Eternity 309“Hands to work, and hearts toGod" Wink THE FOUNDING OF ‘Now Lebanon, Now York, in 1787, Shaker belief took form in-communities where members could work and pray. Believers were organized inte groups known as families. Membetship crested in 1845 at 4,000 or so, then declined a5 fewer joined. Apostasies also pared dawn numbers, After nearly adecade of contemplating Shaker life, 2 n EE w > sstingoen.D Cy Vi SHAKER COMMUNITIES fm Existing Community = Restored butidings or museum i REWLERANON, KEWoR Cirantes7 2 WATERULIET, KEW york (irenraae) m9, ENPRLE.ConnecTiCuT (rag 7) 4 HANCOCK MASSACHUSETTS. firwa-t9e} WS MAEWARD, MApRACMUSETTS: (yyatcei 0, OWTERDUAY. NEWHAMPSHaRE ((7R2 PRESENT) 7. TVRRIGHAM. MASSACHUSETTS (rraena7a) mon ALFRED, Maine (freee) mb. FARELD, MEW HAMARSHIRE: firs ai 10, SHHLEY, UASRADNUSET TS (ives toon 1, SABBATIND A Lal, MAINE tree rene) mie PLEASANT Im meNTUCIEY (aoe 181%) ‘Thomas Brown could not accept doctrine: “As f heard one of the brethren say, not long since: “The gospel Is just like a tunnel; the farther in, the narrower it grows,’ " Others; unable to: conform, were pushed out. From a Pleasant Hill journal: “Lucy Lemon was kindly invited to go to the world, She went!" Today fewer than a dozen Shakers remain in two villages, * Mother Robocca ‘Jacksan, ane of several black Shakers fed ‘emall group of followers in Philaclolhia during the second ied of q 15, UROONVELASE OHO (apg 302) WATERVLIET, Coto (ibosa01) SOUTH Union, KENTUCKY (sor rao ‘Gores AINE (oe-reri WEST UNION, mOKANA, | (nvette SAVY, MASSACHUSETTS (naa h dec 1848 Whirling Gi m8 ah tueliset, wi received divinely inspired au mie =m sof d Shaikers ned or ‘nOgTEWATER, oD bok in children (ieaer007) ‘SODUS-AAY. NEW YOR T eases) hi ‘GROWL AND, WEE OAK (ise) mb mH h as boys cared for in 19th ce 28 tury by Brother f Waterviier «). Most left before sign- nt. Elder Shakers Pot shove BE NARCODSSEE: FLORIDA (18-191) 1 VONTE AK GEORGIA (Th 1802) ipted this resigned, National Geographic, September 1989VILAGE MAPS were drawn asa matter of pictorial record keep- ing, such as this detail showing the Church Family property at Alfred, Maine, done in 1845 by Brother Jostuua Bussell. Tha 1896 round barn at Hancock (left) could house more than 50 head of dairy cattle, More tike a fine piece of machinery than a barn, it was efficient anu mod ern for its time, Ten wagons at a time could cart hay up @ ramip to the top level, then exit with- out backing up. The cattle oceu- pied stalls ringing the middle level, Trapdoors behinet statts allowed casy removal of manure, stored in a pit belaw ground level and tised to fer~ tilize fields. The Shakers’ Bricf Eternity I didn't mean to steal, 1 just wanted to bring them to you.’ ““That may be, but now you must sit on your chair and eat them all. So you won't forget.’ “Tobeyed,” Martha recalled, “Each was harder to swallow than the one before." It was a harsh lesson, given by love, Hadn't Mother Ann said, “The reproof of a friend, is better than the kiss ofan enemy"? HRIST SAID “Be ye therefore perfect’; the Shakers accepted the challenge af bringing heaven down to earth, In the otherworldly air of a Shaker village, the tesponsive soul found safe harbor, “I came upon vaca- tion at 16,” said the late Sister Lillian Phelps of Can- terbury, New Hampshire, ‘“E felt { was in the company of angels When it came time to go back to Boston, I said I wasn’t going.” But the fence around a Shaker village could not exclude human failing. A sister, now in her 90s, wide-eyed behind glasses, wearing: pink-flowered slippers three sizes too large, recalls: “Nothing worse than a graup of women, Such jealousiest They would tattle on each other to the eldress. They complained about me looking in the mirror, The eldress called me in, sat me down, and said 'T don't know why you spend so much time looking in the mirror. ‘There's nothing about you to admire.’ " ‘The challenge lay in excising imperfection. Community welfare dictated the pruning of individual vanity. If the individual couldn't, leaders would, ‘To tend body and soul, the village was divided inte several fam- ilies of as: many as 100 members. Each had its own house ‘Two elders and twe eldresses in each family monitored spi behavioral issues, Trustees handled business dealings with the out- side world, Ultimate jurisdiction rested with the parent ministry at New Lebanon (later renamed Mount Lebanon) in New York. Families were named for their geographic relation to the central Church Family, where the meetinghouse stood. There was typical- ly Notth, South, East, and West Family, New members entered agathering order, progressing to the church order, where they ned the covenant, Hecause the community was celibate, but cluded men, women, and children, the dwelling house was vided. Men and women entered separate doorways, used separate stairs, sat on opposite sides of the meeting room. N SPRING’S TENDER GREEN I journeyed to Canterbury, ona ribbon of road that unfurls past New Hampshire's maple groves and apple orchards, Shaker sisters live here, but it is more a museum now, a still life in white and green: meeting- house encircled by a picket fence, manicured herb garden, trim white shops and dwellings, clean-swept stone walks, “There is no dirt in heaven,” Mother Ann said, How beguiling this orderly blueprint of how to live, Many found the life congenial. Said Brother Robert Wilcox in 1849, "Tam per- fectly content. I have enough to eat and drink . , . good clothes to wear, a warm bed to sleep in, and just as much work as I like and no more.” Small wonder the villages attracted “winter Shakers,” who joined with the first snow and left with spring thaw. That drop-ins were tolerated is.a measure of Shaker charity It extended beyond village boundaries. In 1846, during the 313on Village se ant Hill ir fire hose attracted potato famine thousand bushels of Kentucky sent After the | one Ds, members came from the ranks of @ by Shakers from those who landed on Shaker doorsteps orphans, widows, families fallen. on hard times. Thus Shakes attracted t vers into the 20th cer A Can ‘bury sister explained her arrival: “My mother died. My father remarried, and my stepmother didn't like me 1€. To their dismay na small proportion of the chil After 1845 membership b Shakers couldn't ensure that e dren they reared would sign the covenant. “We gather in man children, but when they come to act for the 8 large portion of them choose the flowery path of nature rather dian the cross, fretted Bi Isaac Youngs in the 1850s. Of the 197 children raised at Mount Le from 1861 to 1900, only one joined, says Priscilla B ry Shaker communit wer, a historian of 19th-cen sé the decline? No. s would have ended id stumble. From a 19th-ce alias Nahum y—thinks there is not room Did celibacy ca As Brewer points out, if th ion. Some di Backstiding —Hanania at were so, Davi ve for the exp intellect? Suppose we should say list! Toa Shaker, celibacy is a given. Says Sister Frances Cart of Sabhathday Lake, Maine: “Celibacy frees us to be able to love and I'm speaking of Gospel love—to love tricted by pe lace community over self-interes hing to veryone and not be ‘onal love, was the more difficult mit your will toc piritual did not hun woman nity was knowe i sisters. To pr as uni of brethren ar convinced that politics was c did not vote ial issues. They spoke out on abalition, child wel ‘age, compulsory ¢ducation, labor ri Equality was not just x homily; it w I, There were b s part of Shaker life, Mem: cks like Mother Rebecca bership was open t Nati THR DA theparent mintst nt, in of fect ruling that no new Sh nterbury < thas changed members Sabbethelay Shake Arnold Hadd and Brother th (left), embody their community's c , Brother strong personalities o { their tawy er each sie esnt understand,” saya In truth, the wort Ithas anothe has ial Geographic, September 1989Jackson, who led a small group of Shakers in Philndelphia, Jews and American Indians were also welcomed paeifists, the Shakers, particularly those in Kentuck: scape the effects of the Civil War, South Union, Ken: losses of crops, stock, and buildings ‘Trade was disrupted there and at Pleasant Hill, The Shakers cared for and fed soldiers on both sides Said an officer tot “Madam, I fear yeu will kill us with good vittles,”” “Better that, than with a bullet." ‘The Civil War was a visible sign that the nation was changing But the sre f economic and geographic expansion had Hac ven carlier, After 1836 no new communities were suc sfully founded. Those who might have joined the Shakers had other options Faced with shrinking membership, communities dwindled, then closed. Tyringham, Massachusetts, in 1875. North Union, Ohio, in 1889, Groveland, New York, in 1892, Pleasant Hill, ntucky, in 1910, They were blotted up by a world that bolted past to an indus Thou; could not tucky suffered sev ister crac had ial, urban age Perhaps the ultimiate disposition of these shuttered villages s something about th Today two Shaker omimunit! e state prisons, +. of another lies under a municipal airport, and yet another is «housing development ‘Two short-liv munities — White Oak, € and Nar- coossee, Florida—are totally erased HE LAST ELDRESS of Canterbury sat in the kitchen the trustees’ house peeling broccoli with skil She has been blind for more than five years “T was the only one of six girls who decided to stay I watched as they left one by one for the world Bertha Lindsay, then 90. Catching a slight hesit the path not chesen “Oh, Lloved to keep hot utd would have loved to marry But I've never regretted my choice. I've been a happy woman,” She and 92-year-old Eldress Gertrude Soule, formerly « bathday Lake, are the last members of the parent mi which moved from New Lebanon to Hancock to Canterbury third sister, Ethel Hudson, also in her 90s, lives across the stre: sole occupant of a dwelling that once housed a hundred hands, id ncy in her voice, I say something about istry, “Eldress Bertha,” Task, “itis a She to seek perfec: tion, Is there anything less than perf ou? “Some would say I'm too independ ‘ in ahigh-collared If Eldress Gertrude glances up, A tiny wr sand Shaker net eap, she pulls he “T'll say ot surprised hnw few Shakers are left, amrod Bertha patiently, rophecy said our numbers would diminish, Still, we ki order. The hands drop off, but the work 3 The work falls to other hands as well. The South Family property of Mount Lebanon was purchased by a small congreg: tion of Sufis; 2 religious community with Islamic roots. I visited and was directed toa building that once housed the Shake 316 Natio na drying att at Sabbarhday Lake, which hos maintained an herb business since 1799. Shaker communities were primarily agrartan and, hanks to the care lavished on ps anul livestock, exempla of productivity. Dependence on nature nurtured a wry respect Aprit 1: Whip this morning, pring ia here at last. Friday 8: Snow ,... Whippoorwill mituie Frozen tap." With Sunday worship service from winter quarters in the brick dwelling house :to the 179: house Geographice attic at the H June Sprigg reache ock Shaker Vil up and twisted ard cireumscribing the room. A Shak- might well be such a pegboard; nearly very room had one. From irs and clocks hung out of the way. The peg"s hand-turned extra work for the crafts- an, ensured it would bear the weig! t pulling out Such hidden detail marks Sh; unstudied simplicity becomes a statement of belief. Shaker scholar Edward Deming Andrews called it Religion in Wood. What the eye worships is this: The chair that uses no more wood than need- hat could have been made across but gently curve, rungs that ever hit osts that soar. Examine hit of a small cupboard with r craftsman: p-lis elegant of ston ould 1 ed replacing. Solidity prevails. This is the work of people Wied to be al nel for a less at just work," explains Ed Nickels, director of collections “Tt's work with purpose,” Work wa of Shaker Perfection crossed from the spiritual to the temporal. “Do al your work a5 though you had a thousand years to live, and as you would if you knew o-morrow, Impressed by the excellence of the SI é wor became their customer, They sold, arn things, chairs, baskets, blankets, hats, hides, seeds, apples, pickles, candies, pre eves, herlvs, and brooms The passion for perfection extended to anything their hands touched en ‘ir soil was perfect,” Amy Bess Miller remem: bers. “Not a rock or a pebble in it Work was a consecration. “Put your hands your hearts to God," Mother Ann said. But the result was not meant to bean icon. A bench was to sit on. A table to eat on. Does heaven have chairs? ¥ THE TIME LOT aches the block, it is rai patter on the yellow-and-white tent muffles the auction: s staccato. “Let's start 009," says Will Hen: It is his sixth Shaker auction, held at the Mount which is now a school Henry is in, late 30s. His speech ac < with each lot, wering adjectives like “cl Ld I Revol ood, oak, origi I varnish finish, South Family, New Lebanon, N.Y. c.18 handsome: a high revolvin with slender legs and spindle back, mac mile from where it will be sold lible ‘om the front row: a young man with is stunned. There sts to set a pace. The high oper to scare off competition. It nearly. works. Henry starts to hammer down the chair when— ated number 180 shoots up from the bas d Klank, a University of Mary inig for television actor Bill C It belongs to30 YEARS he were in the divelling-hotixe attic at Canterbury (ahove) still lide out effortiessty, The pine used is “clear,"*or unflawed. ‘The Shakers did not have 4 rk was worship, the task, "A man can show his eligi ‘Ontong as The Shakers’ Brief Eternity “$35,002” asks Henry. He lonks at the first bidder, David Schorsch, who nods At $60,000. Bids lob b: his card stays ‘The lull worries Henry. A break in the rhythm can kill the action. He push 10,0007" ‘The crowd is silent. In this part of the country that kind of mon: ey buys asmall house. Henry looks.at Schorsch, whe quietly an eyebrow in assent Klank? He shiakes his head “Other bids?” Henry asks. A pause, then "Sold! The $80,600 chair sets a record for Shaker furniture sole tion. The buyer, 23-year-old David Schorsch, « New Vork Cit dealer, bought it, he said, because he'd always wanted one. (The cord has fallen more than once since then: Last March a candie- 0,000.) all the people that mone Sabbathday Lake wh Shaker chair. She shakes her head. “Tdon't want to be remembered as a chair,” Sister Mildred Barker grumbles when I ask her opinion. My welcome to Sabbath- day Lake is grudging, 1 call for an interview and am told too many steps up to $5,000 increments, $5$,000 cand forth. At$75,000 Klank waver But uld feed,” says Sister nicl of the $80,000 stories have been written already. “Frankly,” says Sister Mildred, “don’t recognize us in any of it.” She'll see me anyway. Set in the lake country of southwestern Maine, Sabbathday Lake is haven to nine believers, five women ranging in age from 60 to 92 and four younger, newer members A highway bisects the village. The rumble of trucks rudely shakes the windows of the brick dwelling house where Sister Mildred greets me. How da you want to be remembered? Task “Asa Shaker... who tried to live by the precepts,” she say: Sister Mildred came to the Shakers 86 years ago, Her father had died. Her mother, unable to support her ehildren, placed young Mildred in the care-of the Alited, Maine, Shake here was an older sister, Paulina called. “Toved her. She was taken ill was dying, she asked if the c n¢ in.” Mildred was last in line, When ker turn came, the failing sister said, “Mildred, promise me something, Pro you'll be a Shake “| promised her,” Sister Mildred said, “but it tooler pany years to fulfill the promise and t knew what that meant.” ger,” Sister Mildred suddenly, When she Sprir iren could ec Sister Mildred does not volunteer this. It com history recording made two decades ago At morning's end, Sister Mildred sgives me alight peck on the heek. “You're in," she says. The next day she rebuffs practically all questions to show Iam not really “in” after all Something gentle is embedded in the toughn tiet glow like the glimmer of a lantern at dusk. To those who know her, Sis ter Mildred epitomizes Shaker values: compassion, love, total ded: ication. No compromises here, She is rigorous, a drill the soul There is bituerness y Lake. It o, [tis the subtext in talk at directed at the world's obsessto Sabbathday under the pbathday the rancor is blunt, the hu able ey say Sabt nthe Bas{ to vate int dential red that it wou to do on election day ay rift, amor $ : Shaker schola ob Emmlen explained it thus: “If a ship i king, do y down ni t bailin Von? The going-down-t y's, Some time in the mic-1960s t] parent mi closec covenant vew member:The Shakers’ Brief Eternity the now closed enant. Noncovenanted a Shaker life, he says, but the parent ministry arly e of them doing so within existing Tis not Shaker-like to engage in authoritarian tation, he adds, so the ministry simply counseled Sabbath- sinst admitting new members, Nonetheless, it contin- It will not go gentle into that good night. The dispute turned so bitter that for a time in the early 19705 Canterbury cut off Sabbathday Lake’s income from the trust fund “They hoped t to our knees,” a Sabbathday Lake sister After discussion between lawyers for both sides, the funds were reinstated. These days, the r d, but little is forgiven. Communi: 5 binnited, Itis a canker that will not heal, adi being Shaker. The peaceable kingdo “They're scared and fadiry acts like it’s a big yard sale “They want everything but the crass,"" Sister Mildred say's a world that presumes to understand, but doesn’t We in the world miss a lot abs cans to be Shaker Hancock Village curator June Sprigg. “Perhaps it’s like heing color-blind. The At Canterbury in June of li way in her sleep. “Iam spre Shaker familie: confta day Lake ues to dos ncor may have ation rei action to the business of is anything bu ays an observer, “and the world ut what i are hues the rest of us can't see t year, Eldress Gertrude quietly ery tired,” she sighs before climb ing the stairs to retire. Will the coming year witness more suc ts? A close friend of the Shakers thinks so: “I holding their breath and waiting. They ean relax and Several hundred attend the eldri Hadd and Sister Frances come from S: out of duty than remorse. More out of t el go 5 funeral. Brother Arnold bbathday Lake Hessness th perhaps, a mourner discomfits them with Citing a prior commitment, Frances and Arnold leave early. There is no neutral terr Not even the grav In truth we want to bel en. To hear of the the elders hind an open line tot communities reminds us the chair cracks; the per- Yet, what must be remembs his: the body shook in & of our own imperfect fect ending proves elu: red e Was 4 joy so asy, RING-BLESSED SUNDAY at Sabbathday Lake the morning hush i of lambs. Soon Shakers will walk from the ling house across the road to their 1794 white ghouse. The interior Shaker ti inal, uniretouched sinee it was applied 2 They file in, two brothers and five sisters, sitting sides of the room, joined by eight guests fra Rising out of the silence, their voices—somehow t all but angelic—cher To b Gi sung in this room is to touch the hem of hea "Tis the gift to be simp! Tis the gift to be free meet trim is n Opposite n the world ansformed, ur “Simpl en a familiar hexrt son; And when we. sin the place just right and delight. Amen, oruin, hurch bears witness to the i the Byzantine Empire that preceded t of the First Crusaddealized in hi the perfect knight, God- frey leads crusaders in a [3th-century illustra- der th tion. L he brow of € Godfrey's castle in Bouillon, Belgium inthor, astride the heavy horse Carty, and hi companion, horse expert Sarah Dornon, take up the route Godfrey fol- lowed to the Holy LandAll roads lead to Jerusalem With a call to arms against Seljuk Turks pushing into Asia Minor, Pope Urban II launched a holy war to win bark Christendom's shrines. A metley vanguard called the peasants’ crusude set gut in the spring of 1096 behind the firebrand preacher Peter the Hermit but met disaster in Turkey. Other groups left after the harvest. Tens of thousands of knights, foot sat- diors, and pilgrims had converged on Constantinople bythe next year. An engraving (above right} depicts ‘one of the battles on the way to Jerusalem, which ‘was captured ini July 1099 and its Mustim and Jewish population put to death: Nine centuries Inter the aa- thor spent eight months riding the crusaders’ route, SOVIET UNION —— Aethor's route (97-1988) —— Goatray of Bewillon (096-407) and Peter the Hermit (1096) — of Toute (0098-1007) — Pabert of Noomandy (iove-i099) = Bohermoned of Taranto (1096-1087) —— histin of 97-1998) Balog ay ian toon Dashed fine icicaten ureattrin rout, te entury eaves in parentheses 334 National Geographic, September 1959NA RRIGHT May morn- ing to the sound of trum. pets we rode out of the castle and took the road for Jerusalem There were four of us: Sarah Dor- mon—Irish and 22—two horses, and 1 Before us lay a journey that would carry usmorethan 3,000 mileste the south and east across ten countries. Nine centuries earlier the same route had been followed by one of the most remarkable hosts in history—the warrior-pilgrims of the First Crusade. All my life I have been fascinated by those legendary knights and their fol- lowers, With the symbol of the cross stitched to their clothes, the crusaders marched until theit shoes were shred- ded, their tents rotten, and their horses too weak to carry riders, They com- pleted the only truly successful Crusade to the Holy Land. They endured three years of battles, starvation, and disease, and at the end they stormed the walls of Jerusalem and captured that holy city. ‘They left an indelible mark on the histo- ry of hoth Europe and the Middle East The kingdom that the crusaders ¢stablished was to Inst nearly a century before Saladin won it back, and in that time Europe and near Asia became locked in an embrace of culturesthat has no end to this day. At the start of the Crusade in 1096 dozens of aristocrats answered Pope Ur- ban TI's call to free the holy places from the control of the infidels of the East. ‘The medieval bards claimed that Duke Goilfrey of Bouillon was the crusader par excellence. Their own chronicles reveal that 338thirsty, and fanatic. Yet they risked their ury and suffering on earth, anda hope of f the © many them, Duke Godire r returne . He died in Jerusalem and wa jed near Christ’s tomb in the Churcl af the Holy Sepulchre ER THE VEARS I have te most of ther es. Butin 198 follow Duke € when E dec and not just any kind of ean Arden breed Tnee of heavy horse na if France: and Belgiur Cone cemetery of Worms, West Germany. He atleft) gardens with a friend. The cross a ting faiths led to tragedies. Israeli Ma ish population. Near the crusaders’ line of march in Bavaria, Maria Pfaller (abo sta to the area's enduring religiaus devation eavy horse was the main battle tank of struck terror into ny foo! soldier unlucky enough to stand in the arge In northern France I found and bought Carty—three-quartersof a ton of eth mimense nel cri a business in I rant. In my Courtmacsherry I enlisted the Tor SeyERIN hus tracked Ulyss u GROGRAE i f Sindbad ( 82), endan (Die- This is the second magazin Pere Essick, who photographed is psalms in the aders attacked the Jew-Cracking their whips as # drive their herd acro puszta, or plain, of eas ell, a distinctive feature pastureland, provi. baigy Nation:Sarah Dormon, manager of alocal gour- met restaurant, who had owned horses and ponies since the age when most chil- dren acquire their first bicycle. Satah had an uncanny ability to know what a horse would think or do five minutes be- fore the animal itself made up its: mind. Five feet two inches tall and elfin, Sarah possessed a wry sense of humo, proved able to pick up foreign languages asif through her skin, and didn’t care a Jot for medieval history, In Courtmac- sherry she agreed to help out with Carty “just for a few weeks.” A yearand a half later, as we trudged across the Middle East's Jordan Valley. in searing July heat, Sarah was still muttering that it was a mistake to talk to strange customers in a restaurant. Our ride began in the courtyard of Godfrey of Bouillon’s castle in Belgium, where our departure was hailed by the Jocal tourism office with a taperecording ofthe Irish national anthem, followed by acannon shot fromthe battlements. The Jatter sent Sarah's mount, a little bay mare acquired in Ireland and named ‘Mystery, skitteting off at a panicky gal- lop, Splendidly fit and supremely good- natured, the little mare lacked only one attribute—brains. Carty’s superabundance of brawn was no blessing either. In the first half mile I learned what he was-designed for—and it certainly wasn't riding! An animal so huge is the ideal load carrier; he can carry any amount at his pancer- ousand majestic pace, But Carty'sshat- tering plod was excruciating to a rider. He slammed each massive foot down with a bone-jarring thud that I felt right up through my spine. The knights of the First Crusade hadasecond, lighter horse known as a palfrey for everyday travel, and they saved the heavy horse for pack carrying and for battle Bruised and aching, I sympathized Retracing the First Crasade with those original innocents who joined the Crusade with little notion of what they faced and even less of how to equip ‘themselves. In # 12th-century chronicle Guibert of Nogent wrote; “The poor were soon inflamed with so burning a zeal that none stopped to consider the slenderness of his means, neither wheth- et itwas wise for him to leave his house, ‘his vines and his fields... . Truly aston. ishing things were to be seen, things which could not but provoke laughter: poor peaple shoeing their oxen as though they were horses, harnessing them to two-wheeled carts on which they piled their seanty provisions and their small children, and which they led along behind then.” HERE was no controlling such an explosion of fervor. The great lords began to muster two armies in France; another was raised in Ttaly; and Duke Godfrey assembled his forces from the Low Countries and Germany. The plan was to rendezvous at Constantinople, But many bandsof ordinary folk impatiently set out ahead of them, This unruly vanguard seethed across Europe, often acting no better than brigands and massacring Jews in the Rhineland. The largest group, led by a firebrand preacher named Peter the Hermit, was scathingly dubbed the “peasants’ cru- sade." Itsadvance guard was led by only tight knights. As Sarah and I soon learned, peasants marched faster than princes: Peter's motley fallowers aver- aged nearly 18 miles a day on their way across Europe, while Godfrey's army. managed only 15% miles. Sarah and I found it took us some three hours each morning to feed, groom, and inspect our horses properly, atid once under way we were limited by Carty’s numbingly slow gait. Even gentle Mystery was so a1irritated by his ball-and-chain effe che took an accasiénal nip at him to hur ty him along. But Carty simply igno her. Hispain nto believe the old talesof un jet that I fled hreshold wasso war-horses emerging from the fray tling with arrows like pincushions Noe route acn bo burg his army set foot on the Via Militaris, the ancient Roman road I e knows Duke ecise Godirey’s pi s modern. Belgium, Luxem: 2, and Germany. But at Regen: the banks af the Danube he and ing to Asia As best we could, Sarah and 1 followed the Roman tracks, while Carty adied substance to the crusaders’ rep tation for d ruction and pillage reat beast proved to be a one: He combined hi with an unquenchal result was d-span Bavarian vil to buy a loaf of bread for lunch ng Carty’s reins to Sarah, 1 ge bakery, Cart 0 the out Sarah and Mystery rehed ov huge strength fosity, and the ly mayhem, In a spick menace ge Sarah and T side wall. To rand thrust enormoushead inte the bin to invest eate ed, he simply raised his head, whereupon the bin tore out of the louc ncrete ng fike a nose 's muzzle; th H Foramome rom: ( the street and sprayin 8 cont und wide. Shamefaced, Sarahand Trode: quickly c wn with »think what would Duke Godfre heavy age, leaving the n Ishuddered have happence on an unsuspecting Lown timates of the crusaders’ total num: bers vary, from their own wildly ex: ds of thousands gerated figure of huni to elikely numberof 4,000 or 5,000 Retracing st Crusade punted knights and squires and $0, foot soldiers, plus countless civil Casualties én route were high, espe among the horses. Many of the y horses died from lack of food or harsh conditions from particularly heat. During our trek across Germany rly farmers would scramble down from their tractors to pat Carty and tell us of the days when they used heavy horses on their farms. But when they heard how far we intended to go with Carty, they looked skeptical. “He'll never get to Turkey," they warned And in the next country, Austria, a young livery-stable owner was so taken with our behemoth that hema offer: “If ye eda home for him. Wherever he is, I'l mean wer just Jet me know come and fetch him." Duke Godfrey's first the kingdom of hallenge wa: Hungary. The country was ruled by a king named Colomar rst-rate army that who commanded @ Prafoundly moved, pilgrims flock to Medjugorje, Yugostavia (above), wher several villagers claim daily visits feom the Virgin Mary. Similar visions inspired crusaders, In Serbia, which was crossed by Gadjrey, a mank devotes himself to chores at the Ljubostinja monastery.could block Godfrey's advanct 2 to Gyérey Gyirffy, historical ge dling Col man was uperstition ein Bu jon telling people not Profe t, "Coloman secuting witches, witeh And, of course,” he added, “Colo: man knew just how to handle the Cr red that Ge ulm, he insi: nt Baldwin, the 4 the pil i they were out of Hu Our own traverse of Hung nest cour in all Europe for et friend whe ry riding,” rganizes horse tours across Ve. Don’t lle paths. J ss course, H worry a comp horses, 21 ou can ive farms, robust Har t. when it cam ses, the Humi uting he il the Irish ule ] AVING FooLIsItLY ridden y from Belgium I decided That M-year-old hat had National Geogra ic, September 1989taught several tricks by the wrangler, and on command he would lie prone ¢ the ground oF walk on his knees. “That's all we need,” Sarah com “a performing horse. antics we were halfway to being acireus already at Teast, Yugoslavia w corning than Hungary. “T are no facilities for riders in Vugoslavia’ had the curt reply te my inquiry to Belgrade, “We suggest you abandon your trip.” But we persisted, and again the horses were our passports to hospi- tality and help. The Yugoslav country- folk welcomed us wherever we went In late July, almost three months into our journey, a heat wave struck south. very nearly lost ollapsed from the mented dryly, one point he heat, and Sarah and I frantically poured buekets of water over him to coo! bim down. After six hours he rallied, but I began to suspect that he would ne make it all the way to Jerusalem At the Bulgarian border we were ed by sizable reception committee 8 organized by Theodore Troev, a Bulgar- sts d for- Ament. It was letter ian member of my crew from voyage. A local hi ward, flourishing a modetn version of the welcomin that Alexi emperor of Constantinople, had sent to Duke Godfrey. An Eastern Christian, Alexiushad set the Crusade in motion by appealing to Pope Urban I for help agninst the Muslim Turks But hunger, not history, was Mys- n ste Comnenus, Byzantine riority, Our previous few days in Yuuoslavia had been lean go jamished. As the historian began his oration, Mystery spotted two Bulgarian girls in traditional costume holding welcoming bouquets of flowers and th Sidling over, she lunged for a Goral snack, Not to be outdone, Carty ambled, Retracing the First Crusade Dancer abounded on the crusaders’ campaign, cutting down many men before they reached Jeru- salem. In what is now Turkey, legend says, Godfrey survived a bear attack, illustrated in ipt a medieval manus (below). Near the author’s route through the Balkan Mountains, a friendlier bear dances to a tune from a Gypsy’s gadulka. 345Fresh fish netted in reaehed Cor Asia and rendezvous point for the ofhe finished hisrecitation, pinnedtothe tres, a chaplain with the crusaPeter himself escaped the slaughter. Beyond Istanbul and the Sea af Mar mara; Sarah andl | picked up the tracesof the Roman road through pine+forested mountains, Now and then we encoun- tered groups of woodcutters bringing down timber on slender but incredibly tough pack ponies, each animal a mav- ing mound of brushwood. It was here on a bleak day in October 1096 that Peter the Hermit’s peasant army had been ambushed and butch- ered. An account of the battle says that the Turks followed the panic-stricken peasants back to their camp, where, “going within the tents, they destroyed with the sword whomever they found, the weak and the feeble, clerics, monk old women, nursing children, persons of every age. Bypassing the massacre site, the cru~ saders and a contingent of Alexius’ forces besieged the fortified Turkish town of Nicaea, known today as Ienik Sarah and I camped for aday or two be- side the city and rode around the walls, justas Godfrey must have done to scout the defenders’ pe History recounts that during the siege a gigantic Turkish soldier raged up and down the battlements, hurling rocks at the bestegers with deadly effect. At Jength Godfrey himself took up a bow and with a single well picked off the giant After 45 days Nicaea fell, but not to assault. The defenders made a secret deal with Emperor Alexius' ambassador and handed the city over ta his troops, not to the crusaders. The hard-pressed pilgrims were bitterly disappointed. They needed gold and valuables to fi- nance their continued march to Jeruéa- Jem and had counted on Nicaea’s loot Alexius bribed the leaders with lavish itifts, but the rank and file were not even allowed inta the city except in small -aimed arrow Rotracing the First Crusade ry7 I, show respect, worshipers in Istanbul kiss the hand of the Ecumenical Patriarch of the Eastern Orthodox Church (left). In the same city dur- ing the First Crusade, Emperor Alexius extracted an oath of fealty from Godfrey of Bouil- lon (above, kneeling), binding him to deliver lands won in battle to the Byzantine Empire. 349First to fall, the Seljuk city of Ntcaca (modern iznik) was watled on all sides, protected by Lake Ascanius in the rear and defended by a fierce and skillful foe. The crusaders besieged the city, then hauled boats overland from the Sea of Marmara, launching them on the lake. Thus blockaded, the Turks surrendered. nton Carty's replacement was a mountain pack pony named Zippy, whe a third Carty'ssize. Zippy wor ual put in look that uld have him an Oscar among pack ponies. He ould give the impression that he was ove ‘hed, erloaded, and uncerfec ust at the moment he was ing makingarun forit ud flat-footed. Zippy w kick his leg J me, sh and the three horsesand I set off gain in A snowmel We um, where the footwa, een Szair pinned the ad a tarmac, and seve nes were crusher She curled up in agony, and as J rushe to pick her up, L received clear directions nere to locate the medicinal gin ir ddlebag retired Carty with full crusade. He had dom Turk miles as fier a the same fate as his forebears that had 4 f heatand e Jesert steppes, True to his p Austrian friend collected Carty and too! x him back to the Vienna W ion in Turkey’ f the Turks as they turned in Retricing the First Crusade 381I to Aleeiuis—on condition that the hePlaying ut war, el preserve the game of cirit, a galloping re of central Turkey exchange of blunt lances enjoyed by the Seljules around the time of the Cr Ine village near Kaysert, a tearful six- ald bay is showered with lira and words of encouragement to prepare him for the Muslim rite of circumcision jonent, whether Tu ingly faced the shatte red greatly ubbed bet i hands. ( fond wretchedly enough, ut we lost most of our horses, so that Why are jo answer was easy for Muslim ors to grasp: “We are making a hi he holycity of Jerusalem: Just beyond the town of Kayseri we The crusaders passed this way in atumn 1097. Winter was coming o no im Jerusalem, What dri diate pros the T Antaky elopement was Yabar ating undigested sceds pic Turkish —a_palow ininial dung, and pes hauling basker unr at Antnk ly used and s ified, @ mass of 00: ‘ously pot, bathed and nd open th They delayed more than a kish arm They laic th late, to reliew fortific : I zthe(enone of the on that the he Antioch, a Selju Turkish coast. The city had re: wen after the cr reinforcementssentfi old Roman road ( turned the tabi slip ov ah eltudel held out. relief army crusaders now trapped spes grew dim, en St he without sup plies. As claime party ad, a lance was Found. Thus inspired, the crusaders threw them. upon the Turkish enemy—and prevailed.Un decided to t lem e old ¢ ow of a crusader igh Jordan. ‘Theré rdanians and inl per vould about the ¢ Jordan Riv floors,” he ar 3ridge, Prom our ca History molelie The xt morning was stifli past group: pints, and eld h guarding the Israel he horse heck and antitank d we aseri mine forward positions. It was not so differ- moats andl aders bh ent, 1 thought, from the wate encountered When the p ‘usalem on the seventh of June imssighted the walls af 1099, y taust have been half crazed by the i Some stood with tears running down their faces, knelt and kissed the dusty read. Their zeal was great eno to launch the assault against hing their ga rise exertion of rez he infidels imm was lacking ext aly the equip Mountof Olives o attack without delay hermiton em “God is all powerful," the hermit “If He wills, He will storm the ven with one |; yn June 13 ers flung themselves into th eedlessly that they wo nt aside the declar wall th battle so tides jans who themselves had captured the city only the year before—but for a crucial shortage of Scaling ladders. The leading Christ knij fell back hand severed from his arm ] ORMORE THAN THREE WEEKS | the hest waited while two | giant siege towers were constructed. Duke Godfrey f initiated the successful break On July 15 the siege tower in which he th Beams were run out at rampart height to make a bridge, and the first knights charged ac E irs were shocked by the terrible massacre red and pushed to weakest point of Jerusalem's wall in their hard-bitte contempoi C that followed as the maddened crusaders rn wed through the city in a bloody catharsis for that appalling, three journey “No one hasever seen or heard of such jaughter of ” recalled one knight grimly was full of their dead bodies.” The tem ple where the Muslims maze their last ditch stand, he with their blood. pagan Almost the whole city was "streaming Uprooted by this century's clash aver the Holy Land, children of Palestinian refu- gees huddle next to their family’s eamel- hair tent in @ camp outside Amman, Jordan. Their homeland, sacred to Mus- lims, Christians, and Jews, has long been history's battlefield.Thoughts of John the Baptist sustained crusaders as they made trips for water from Jerusulem through the wilderness to the Jordan River, where the prophet conducted ministry. Severinand abewe, reached the Holy Land in stertimmier—as dict, Slowed by bickering among their leaders cand detours to plunder thehe siege ended when Godfrey and his knights overran the ramparts from a tower and stormed the city. The defenders and their wives and children were massacred with such ferocity that the victors “waded in blood up to their ankles.” 364 National Geographic, September 1080A plaque in Jerusalem's Qld City wall “Weeping for jay,” the crusaders secured the spot where Godfr his the shrine of the Holy Sepulchre (below od the Satacenderenies, N ;. thought to be the tamb of Jesus Christ Christendom hailed their triumph, ev piaigery, Bfie : « Mustims plotted to reconquer the Holy the Christian Kingdom of hat the were ultimately unable to held first heed wonA Bygone Century Comes to LightMALAWI: FACES OFA QUIET LANDHEN the Life President of Malawi, Dr. Hastings Kamuzu Banda, enters Kamuzui Stadium (on Kamuzu Highway) under the huge sign “Long Live Kamuzu,” he does so like a conquering hero, In fact one of his titles—and the name by which he is known in-all the villages—is Ngwari, Conqueror. His grand entrance is alway procession of one, and then he is mobbed by a thousand women dancers, deessed alike in Kamuzu-print cloth, who bear him forward along his lap of honor, while 60,000 Malawians in the stands look on in respectful silence This as though he has come from the last century in his formal black suit with a ‘ont and @ watch chain, a homburg hat, and—the one African accessory—a swirling fly whisk, which he flourishes likea whip, His style has not changed since Malawi's indepencence 25 years ago. He is 83 years old, and one of the longest- serving heads of state in the world His beliefs too are as old-fashioned and uncompromising as his clothes. He is puri- tanical in matters of na- tional dress—he sent out adecree that all hemlines in Malawi must come below the knees and that long hair on men is. an aberration. A staunch Presbyterian, he is an elder of the Church of Scotland. Although the dates are hazy, the events in Banda’s life are unusual, and in Malawi they have acquired an epie quality—how at the age of 13 he walked a thousand miles to South Africa for an education (working his way south menial in a hospital and a laborer and inter- preter in mine), Banda a as THE IMAGE of their leader, women dance around Bada duringa sed the money he had Mother's Day celebration. A ce whisk proclaims the absolute sawed to buy a ticket on a ity of the diminutive octogenarian. freighter to the United 374 tates, where he earned the degree of doctor of medicine from Meharry Medical College in Nashville, Ten nessee. But that was not the end of his medical studies. He crossed the Atlantic to Scotland and enrolled at Edinburgh University, and with his British qualification he practiced medicine—a family doctor greatly estecmed by his patients —first in the north of England and in the 19403 in London. He is also a classicist, “No man is truly educated who has not studied the ancient Greeks and Romans,” he bas said, When he discovered that no school in Malawi pable of teaching Latin and Greek, he founded Kamuzu Academy, known as “the Eton of Africa,” where such subjects are required. He is described as “Founder and Proprietor” of the academy, Along with Newari and Life President, was € another appropriate title for this tenacious autocrat would be “Founder and Propri- ctor of Malawi. Paut THERON, an American novelist and travel writer based in London, has written about rail Journeys across China and the Indian subcontinent for the GEoGRaPHIC. This ts prize- winning photographer Ett Reep's debut in the magazin National Geographic, September 1989I first set eyes and I was.a Malawi was still Nye le school outside Limbe. He been ere n the floor de above him. He litical di ssophy of the doctor who knows nade a speech, ittle wooden and T listened with the en an. I was was dressed like amo tism (his has always been t do-it-my-wa; best}, and the terror h the cabinet m one made Dr, Banda inc lescent with but what was most he gave his speech in English —he had lived away from his th aps his mother tongue wa: nd shrieked in Chichewa each time Banda pa: i Thad only r Howed to q en he was heared somewhere in his Rolls-Royce raffie and p : way for the Cc wspape bout—no one was the party quired that ned dormine: pompous, something jok Ce nly he a vision of what he wanted Malawi to become, but te me stich a vision seen unattai without an: ion —th: was, alter all, the 1960s T left Malawi in Qetob hat 0 days were num fewk at Sanfike Palace in Blane ed that Dr, Banda was still the same but th nsame ways, had Malawi. saw how his ‘anity than on a constructive use of power and was off a spit it of publi His hard work and clo with Malawians had been an [r spiration, His politi and Sou ic management had produced Malawians. It had tal my youth Thad n time to see that puritanical, The last tive and quiet-minded 1asen to go oon go to an atlas to find out where next to finger-shaped Ithad on It textbook Lake Nyasa (now Lake Malay paved road, a handful of doctor et Lan 475‘am, the cou example of an underdeveloped countr hyperbole. V al per capita in mortality on people. Onily five Malawians w adu medical doc ne of With a climate that could prod y, hookworm, = bitable endlie its pov hts, and frost, d people afflictec F sickness, and malaria, Malawi ought to hi But it was not. Its people we: stic I had ever met rty and its depend a the outside world, Di wi in power pi 1 was not one bors would aur from it, M ated assertion in Banda’s the so-called front was the first Afr try to estab Africa, a arecipient of South id at polit attached town of Limbe, chief staple. Sptsrred ty represented al in mud huts ar ble or chair, thei sent to Malawi, and I have always con: life in the way that wi—its low, rounded hills and h ts roads of red mud, and the w me—the “land ire.” Octe s0 the month of fir urn method of clearing g it for cultival at is practiced throughout southern Afr gave a smoky hazet they were p: larly dramatic; Whole ranges of f flame wri and and presideways to the summits, I thought of my students— of the great distances they walked barefoot to school; ¥ of their mud huts, and the way they studied at night by the light of greasy candles or oi lamps. I thought: “ays of their laughter, and the day we planted a litte mebavoa 1 tree in the school yard What had happened to it all—to the students, to the trees and roads, to the school itself? What of Dr. Banda? What happens, anyway, to developing countries years later? In Africa it often seemed as though more of them disintegrated than developed. T wished Malawi well, and Inever stopped wonder ing about it. The wonder was itself a sort of hope. $B hatugee setttament arms apie i om ‘¥ SEEMED TO ME on my return that Malawians were better dressed but that the woods were more ragged—the hills showed the effects of serious deforestation. There were more peo- ple in evidence: They crowded the roads, they jammed the buses, they had plowed and plant- ecl most of the visible hillsides, Malawi was no longer a'country of cyclists; it was.a wilder- ness of pedestrians. The population had dow- bled. It now stood at more than eight million, not including some 650,000 refugees from the guerrilla war in Mozambique. Per capita income had increased to $160, but buying power was about the same, or less. More people wore shoes, Some aspects of Malawi seemed eternal. The market traders still sold love potions and smoked fish and fried locusts, as well as elegant baskets and sturdy sandals made from rubber tires. Malawi's cash erops—peanuts, ter, coffee, sugarcane, and tobacco —were unchanged, though their value on the world market continued to fluctuate, ‘The aroma of woodsmoke still hung over the countryside, and except for the people in the few main towns, Malawians still lived in mud huts with grass roofs and worked as subsistence farmers, ‘The tractor was still not common in Malawi, nor was the television set, Censorship was fairly brisk and forbade the propagandistic China Reconstructs as well as the erotic Kama Sutva and the novels of Emile Zola and Vindimir Nabokov. The telephone directory for the entire country was not much thicker than this copy of NaTIONAL GEOGRAPHIC. After arriving as the liberator of Malawi, Dr. Banda was still president. ‘These days in his speeches he stresses the need for what he calls “the three essentials" — food, decent clothing, and a house with a roof that doesn't leak. It seems a modest proposal for a political program. Great importance is given in Malawi ta respectability—to looking decent and behaving politely, Four signs on the heights of Kamuzu Stadium are lettered Unity, Loyalty, Discipline, and Obedience. It is very much a churchgoing country, practically every religion and sect represented, from Islam, Roman Catholicism, and Hinduism, to Methodism, the Assemblies of God, and Jimtny Swagwart Ministries. The Jehovah's Witnesses were banned by the government and persecuted by the Malawi Young Pioneers, a paramilitary unit of Dr. Banda's Malawi Congress Par- ty, for their refusal to join the ruling party. ‘There is only one party, Dr. Banda is Malawi. Faces af a Quiet Land a7idence of AIDMoRNinG SHA Rift Valley syst pl jes aquariums around the world with unique species of tropical fish president for life, and parliament, for all its English wigs and knee breeches, is little more than a rubber stamp for lis policies and prograi “They call me @ dictator,” Banda bas said. “But if'so, then I am.a dictator by the people, for the people, and of the people." Wher I first heard that saying 23 ‘ago, I thought it was a joke. It has proved to be a political credo, and it seems to have worked. Even with all of Malawi's disadvantages of being landlocked, with little industry or raw materials and an essentially agricultural economy, the country has remained stable and orderly and good-tempered. RESIDENT BANDA’s biickground as 4 physician has given him insights into the medical problems that face the country. Leprosy has been just about elimi, nated, and what malnutrition exists is chiefly due to misunderstanding Malawi is able to feed itself. There is a large teaching hospital in Lilongwe called, unsurprisingly, Kamut Central Hospital—where on Banda’s initiative & scheme for training para- medics was started One of these clinical officers, as they are called, is Ben Kadzola, who received his second ary school education from Peace Corps volun- teers in the 19605 and. went on to complete a folur-year course at Kamuzu Central “T can pull teeth,” he says, “Tcan do appen- dectomies, Tean clean and stitch wounds, | can deliver babies and do many other medical jobs.” He runsa health center in Limbe, where nereal diseases are a problem: “Fift refreshes a fisherman at Lake Malawt. Part of the Great ad Africa’s third largest loke generates tourism and sup: five other health conte was been recog- nized as # serious problem in Malawi and is currently being studied by the World Health Organization (WHO), which recently tested a 20 percent sample af blood transfusions from high-risk patients and discovered one in five to be infected with the HIV virus. In February 1988 South Africa deported a thousand black migrant workers who were carrying the AIDS virus: The majority of these men were Mala- wians, At that time Malawi had not yet admitted the problem, Now there are AIDS posters in most public places, saying, “Have a Safe Journey—Don't Come Back with AIDS" and “Despite the Pleasure AIDS isa Killer.” Tasked Kadzola about AIDS. He told me he got two or three suspected AIDS casesa menth, but that he did not treat them—he referred them to the main Queen Elizabeth Hospital, The symptoms he looked for were similar in some ways ta those associated with tuberculosis—sudden weight loss, continuous fever, general malaise, and enlarged lymph glands, but without the chest pains and the cough, Ben Kadzola was typical of many former students of the Peace Corps I mét on my return visit. He considered that he'd had a good education, he was serious about h Nationai Geographic, September 1989he spoke Ex iho Malawi school system under way, and to p nations. Kadzola wa dren—and, ashe rem Population growth large families h: one can entirely explain , his wife i: one of Ma ¢ birthrate at more th Mal: wi's infant-mort birth. mpared with 7? per South Africa. So far only m: efforts hi prosperous with fewer children Jo have a high birthrate in Malawi," medical officer in the Ministry of Health. “We ace it by would like to re spacing births or by limit ing th It was Dr. Ntaba whe told meoft leprosy, but he sa both tub laria contin eats. Sere ust ning for tu ried out being stud cally by a multinational tulosis is being car emati- team of experts. One the great this coun S. Ambas e Trail I their prablems, they don't then. They face YOunGsare typical in another way: He taught him. He did not regard his Peace Corps ican foreign policy—they were people who re the students for t had ave till of childbearin: n3 000 for Zimbabwe id L ty rate, 2 to Malay cent @ year and 75 per 1 ince Mal: S.-trained Hi 00 for ofevery American 5.an aspect of work, to get the rucial exami nine chil awi's most Serious problems, but the pridein A statistic tha which is 150 per 1,00 cks in ted bassador Trail says that his ex¢ nee in Mala: the most satisfying of his career: “Malaw steful for the aid they get (some 25 million pllars from the U. S, annually], They don't waste it, they put it to good use, and why it keeps comin en housed inn have been integrated into existing villages, A Land medical atte antind nts fi auth of Lilongwe the Land warped and turned mbered hu c necessary than now And for this orderlin tra n Malawi and Mozambii ea, quadrupling ship Another counts antagonistic. No at resettlement centers ot nsus is taken regularly, and hosp im the United Nations and aic dd refugees ity Malawi uintries al position of land to the west of upland pieoy biquethe road isa foreign country, It is on this road, near the town of Ncheu, that one of the large settlement areas is situated —hill after hill of newly daubed mud huts “T will go home when it is safe to do so,” one Mozambican said to me. He was holding his small daughter, He said his wife and two other children had been killed by the antigovernment guerrillas, allegedly supported by South Africa. He did not deny that there were many refugees who still had vegetable gardens across the border and that they entered Mozambique to tend them, returning to Malawi to receive the flour and beans that are stacked in bags nearby —fifts of the United States and West Germany. ‘The tefugee settlement near Neheu did not have the temporary look L expected. It seemed like a poor, but not deprived, village. Several refugees complained that they were being confined there —that Malawi policemen rounded them up when they tried to leave to.seek work Officer Patrick Miungu (in Chichewa his ne Theans “white man") of the Maln- wi police told me that there was. ten o'clock curfew in-most of Mala- though it ot strictly enforced. e refugees, zungu said, “If we didn’t keep them in the camps, these people would travel throughou the country, taking jobs and staying forever Walking through the Neheu area, I marveled at the organization that ensured that these thou sands of refugees were fed, clothed, housed, and even taught. The food distribution was less im: pressive to me than the ight of about 70 young- vouched inside a large metal-roofed hut d school one sweltering day, all writing carefully on rithmetic lesson, but the class was as attentive and rever- ALONE ON THE WATCH, a youngster wards off the chill of dusk before head. ing home with his family's cattle, For most Malowians, childhood is the onset of a life of werk, providing little chance to atte scraps of paper. It was an ential as at a church service “The refugees have been a blessing in disguise,” an old student of mine, Wyse Mambo, told me. “Malawi was brought to the attention of the world and was seen as having a helpful and responsible attitude.” ALAWI was my first experience of the world outside America —but nothing in Malawi was related to home: It was not just the tea planters and the tobacco farmers, living on remote estates, or the mostly white clubs with their cricket pitches and billiard rooms and afternoon te Most of all it was the Africans. I had ne n people with so few possessions and such high hopes. My classes wert made up of skinny barefoot children who wanted to be doctors or lawyers. They had impressive audacity and ansbitio seemed to come from nowhere; like waifs through the mist on cald Mal ings, and they were claiming their place in the world. 382 National Geographic, September 1989‘The homework in their copybooks always smelled of woodsmoke and the mid- night oil of the lamps in their huts. They had beautiful handwriting—it was one of the legacies of the mission school system. They remained good-humored and atten- tive all day—it was very rare to have discipline problems. Their English was fine, and it improved and became Americanized in the two years that T taught them. ‘They were studious and hopeful. The very nature of Dr. Banda’s rule meant that they did not harbor any political ambitions, and, because of that, teaching them was joy. It was a country in which people were afflicted by tropical diseases and had a life expectancy of 38 years. I wanted my students to live long and healthy lives, and for them to be happ: Thad first met them in the rainy season of 1964, when they were barefoot children in their mid-teens, Boys and girls alike tended to shaye their heads, for the simplicity of baldness and because of lice. What a pleasure it was for me 23 years later to sce that they were still alive, still well and happy, and that they had families and jobs. Little spindly legged William Bvumbwe was now x heavysetman of 40, & purchasing officer with & Blantyre oil company and the father of three. Wyse Mambo worked for Portland Cement. Pretty Chrissie Nzumwa was a community-development officer with four children, Norah Malinki had. be- come a teacher, Golden Makata made orthopedic shoes, solemn Matthias Kaunjika worked in the Department of Informa- tion, and math whiz: Frank Kunje was in the Department of Income Tax. Itwasall good news. None of them had struck it rich, but they were all SWEST OFFERING of corn passes from child to mother as:they wait to see a doing well. Yet I wanted Sditional healer. In a nation proud of large famities, disease and malnu joheartt frown teen trition take the ves of 15 of every 100 children during infancy. William Byvumbwe spoke for them: “Weare better off than at the time of independence. Malawi is uni- fied and peaceful.” I was gladdened but not surprised to learn that one of my former teaching col- Jeagues, Sam Kakhobwe, had risen to the top, and after senior posts in the treasury and as ambassador to Zambia, Ethiopia, and West Germany he had become the highest civil servant im the country, secretary to the president and the cabinet “When Twas 12 years old," Sam said in his Blantyre office, "T used to stand out- side the tennis courts at the Blantyre Sports Club over there" —he pointed out of ‘the window. “I used to throw the balls back when they went over the fence, and 1 always hoped at the end of the day that I would find one to play with at home. Some days I watched rugby at Limbe, looking through the fence.” He could have spoken bitterness, because these were white clubs, white teams in a British protectorate controlled and dominated by « handful of white farmers and bureaucrats; instead, he was smiling out the window, with a fondness for the innocence of the happy memory. Malawi; Faces of a Quiet Land 383RIVING NORTH some days later, I could not help noticing again how bereft of trees Malawi was: empty hills, plowed valleys and plains. Some fruit trees remained, as did the groves of hardwoods that were always left around burying grounds. What happened to the trees? They are cut down for two reasons: for ftel and to make room for mort planting of corn (cormmeal flour is the staple ingredient in the Malawi dict). The effcet is dramatic — it seems as though the entire southern region of the country, where more than half the people live, has been deforested. Where once there were woods and forests, there are cornfields, Roads that used to hav rows-of trees running at the mangins have nothing but dusty shoulders, and even on the enormous slopes of Mount Mulanje, a great plateau 9,850 feet high, there are slutices and rocky ravines and eroded gullies instead of its former forests James Phiri, a farmer, pointed to @ hill outside Blantyre on which there was still a slope of trees remaining, and he said, “If the Forestry Department hadn't stopped them, the people would have taken those too.” ‘There is no oil in Ma- lawi, and there is so little coal (a few seams in the northern region) that it i seldom scen in the mat- kets, The only way a Malawian can cook his food is over a wood fire There is a program to plant trees, and laws have been passed to pro- tect the native trees of Malawi, the hardwoods, cedars, and acacias, & person without a special permit can be fined for felling trees or for pas- sessing logs or charcoal from freshly cut tre ‘One of the more ambi- CRADLING HIS DAUGHTER, aman recounts the death of his wife, five-year: tious schemes prior to old child, and mother-in-law, shot while fleeing Mozambique. Refugees independence was the have added some 650,000 to Malawi's population of eight millian. planting by ths Bocesiry Department of avast tract of trees in the Vipya Plateau in the north, so that the country would be a rich source of pulpwood. But after the trees matured and were ready to be harvested, such an enormous capital outlay for papermaking was required that. the puton hold by the government Today in the Vipya Plateau, in what is now called Vipya Plantations, an inge nious use has been devised for the trees that are felled as the forest is regularly thinned out and pruned: They are made into charcoal. The Malawi Charcoal Project manages six sites across the region A single site produces a thousand tons of charcoal a year,” # staff member told me, as the smoke swirled around us from the bechive-shaped charcoal ovens. It is an old grubby business, the making of charcoal, but the result is a surprisingly useful slow-hurning fuel, needed by tobacco growers for curing tobacco as well as by averaste hom in Malawi ere was “ely wants to cook food or keep warm; it can be very cold ff said th at even though the project now turns out 6,000 tons of charcoal 3 336 National Geographic, September 1089year, they cannot keep up with demand. The intention isto increase production to 15,000 tons a year by next year, It is sold with only the narrowest margin of profit, 80 kwacha ($30) a ton. ‘The workers were dressed in rags, plodding back and forth with logs or charcoal I was told they earned the basic wage for manual workers in Malawi— 18 kwacha a month, with bonuses that brought it to 30 kwacha. Hotel workers I spoke with earned about 45 kwacha, and this was near the aver- age monthly salary for peaple in the service industries. My former students earned a bit more than that, but even so, for a family of four, which is small by Malawian standards, 60 kwacha is barely enough to make ends meet THIS TRIP to the north I traveled through the Lifupa Game Camp in Kasungu National Park, past herds of elephant and zebra and bushbuck und fretful litle families of warthogs. (Malawi isa leader in wildlife conser- vation.) Some 30 miles east of the game camp is Mtunthama, the birthplace of Kamuzu Banda and now the site of what is perhaps Africa’s best high school, Kamuzu Academy. ‘The academy looks like a new English boarding school or a Christian seminary —the chapel is prominent on the cam pus, At Dr. Banda’s suggestion, Romanesque arches have been incor= porated into the redbrick buildings. And the founder and proprietor determined how the din- ing hall should be de- signed, that there would be two students in every APLAce For REFLECTION: Kamuzu Dam, built in 1968, increased the water bedroom, that the school ™pply of Lilongwe, which replaced Zomba as the capital in 1975, Poor in should have an atmo. fossil fuels, Malawi has begun tapping its enormous hydropower potential, sphere of cloistered calm, and that it should aim at being self-sufficient in food —with gardens and workshops and even tailor shops for the making of school uniforms. They make everything except the straw boaters the students wear on Founder's Day. The cornerstone was laid in 1978, and the first students were admitted in 1981 ‘The sclection process for the academy is unashamedly elitist, with two boys and ‘one girl chosen on the basis of a competitive examination each year from each of Malawi's 28 districts. The student bory is not large at 360, and with a teaching staff the students are well looked after, They also have the largest swimming pool in the country, a wonderful library, sports facilities, and an abundance of goodwill Phe staif quarters are like a little English suburb of pretty villas, with a staff club that has its own pool and grounds “This is the wrong place for the pute scientist,” Dr: Banda has said. "The em- phasis or bias here is on classical education, not scientific.” Still, exam marks in the sciences are high, and 118 Kamuzu Academy graduates have gone abroad to study medicine in Zimbabwe, forestry in Wales, and engineering in London. ‘The success 6 Malawi: Faces of a Quiet Land 387ults in the of this unusual school is je—it has produced demonstrable r form of intelligent and highly motivated graduate: Ina sense the school accurately reflects Malawi itself, for itis worthy, pt and highly subsidized, No one I spoke to at Kamuzu Academy could say € much it cost to run, but everyone ageced that the figure was very high—teachers salaries alone account for more than half million dollars a year. This amount tly reduced if the teachers were African and earned the ustial Malawi wage. But when this idea was proposed to Dr. Banda, he replied, “They. teachers} are not ready yet In great contrast to Kamuzu Academy is Soche Hill Secondary School outside Limbe, where I spent my Peace Corps years. The school operates with only the barest facilities, There are now 500 students and about a score of teachers. I saw just rican a handful of books in the library, and much of the equipment in the carpentry and rts. If Kamuzu Academy is Athenian in its outlook and curriculum, Soche Hill is Spartan. And yet each place charges nearly the same tuition fee about 200 kwacha ($70) boarde: In spite of scarcities morale is high at Soche Hill, and since 1 was first there, they have added several new classrooms, the workshops, and a dining hall that doubles as an auditorium. The machine shop was lying idle because of a lack of spare school is clearly hard- pressed for money, but I found it orderly and the students good-natured and conscientious. The schoo! bulletin board was-a good indica~ Doreen Makebs heads forclass ct tor of the school’s con- er England's public schvols, nis—the dress code tn cn atthe ee was clearly spelled out no min ings were given (“Avoid E; yho were involved in new verses of the school song praising Dr. Banda . No bell-bottem trousers, no hats) Partners"), and there were long lists clubs and ies, as well as Chorus: school's We thank you very much, Ngwazi For building schools, and bases And for improving our lives, Because of your leaders school," Miss Mwafulirwa, the home economic me, indicating that very little financial assistance was available from the gov- Headmaster Blair Khonje said the school had no problems that could not overcome by hard work on the part of students, but I felt he was putting on a brave face. His stoicism was characteristically Malawian "We are now a seli-hel 388 Nationo Geographic, September ¥I was encouraged not so much by what had been built but by what had remained intact—the old classrooms had survived the harsh climate, the place was tidy, and flowering shrubs had been planted along the school paths. Such lovely bushes are free in Malawi, and the soil is still very fertile. ‘The students, no longer harefoot, are better fed and physically bigger than stu. dents in my day. Many mote of them will go on to further studies, and their conf dence in the future is heartening, Perhaps this confidence is a result of the country's apparent stability—Dr. is the only leader they have ever known, and to them must Seem immortal and emblematic sible to be in Malawi and not feel isolated, but it is this very isolation s made the Malawian self- rugal. I found it oddly encouraging that Malawi had changed so little after all these years. How sad it would have been if T had found the wastefulness or jous modernity that seems to afflict so much of the rest of Africa. And change does not me placency —it may be a re- spect for tradition. I was d to see that the little mbawatree we had plant- in 1964 at the school now 30 feet high and I growing nore I left Mala- Wi, climbed the Mulanje plateau It is a bleak and remote place, I was sur- prised when a thin per- spiring man came panting down the track earrying several seven-foot planks slung across his back. He told me that he had cut them by hand from a eu calyptus log, and now he was lugging them down the hill to his home some EVESTHAYCANNoT sae find t four miles away in orc vol for blind and ie caulk 6 ebod Hoe 6 resources with others, Malaya still manages his hut, This exhausting teep track in the heart of Africa seemed highly civilized ight of loving care at the Montfort ldren near Blantyre. As it shai help frs own: job undertaken and humane That man and others T met inspired a simple thought—one that has stayed with te. In my Peace Corps years I had regarded Malawians as people who lived a frag- ile existence: They were victims of floods and droughts, of bad harvests, of world ation. Over more than two decades I thought about them, always in.a vaguely anxio Twas surpy turn fo find them living roughly the same lives they had iving all those years ago, Vet the people I spoke with told me that their lives were better now, though it was still very hard trying to make ends meet, Malawi re ns a subsistence economy, its people living hand to mouth. It is both a worry and a marvel to me that they are still there, still ut it, existing very lightly on the earth. Go well, father," I said in my rusty Chichewa to the man with his load of plank on the Mulanje plateau He replied, “Stay well, father." gO “ay sed on my bet Malawi: Faces of a Quiet Land 389oySculptured fields of millet and corn drape the high stapes above the Kali Gandaki valley, which forms the Western boundary of the new conser- vation area. One of the deepest valleys in the world, the Kali Ganduki lies between Dhaulagiri, the world’s Seventh highest mountain (back- ground, at right) and Annapurna I, the tenth highest.1 efforts worldwide. Itis an and-square-mile known as the Annapi Project, or ACAP, b rs in the ACAF ANGE 6 preserve In thi ¢ ment used pai funds fo and little money local | ts not on s grandstand view af the snow ped Annapurna Range to the north ical Pokhara Valley to the south, the meadow known as the Austrian Camp is a fitworite stop for large gramps hiking the 200-mile trail through the con servation area. A connecting trait leads to the Annapurna Sanctuary, which lies in the shadow of Machapuchare, at center, and Annapurna South, at left.‘Cleantiness ix healthiness” proclaims the banner ax a group of children from Ghandruk show support for the Anna- purna conservation project, which has brought a keen awareness of health and environmental issues to thei gion. ands. ‘Th nts value of ¢ trees for firewo Chuli formative st dicated ce Bunting, m of the World Wildlife Fund, and Hemanta Raj Mishra, director of Nepal's King Mahendra Nature Conserv p of Nepal ina hotel indu, the capital, and dre Annapurna Range ( Then th e first ne, Withil Annapurna project, = of Ghandruk and anctuary enone too d the Anna- lestruction of its smaller purna Range in 19 fragile he com eauly seme ing of the certain a! Until that uummer mons a ¢ region had beer 1 Twas among the first trekkers allowed in. I had expected to fi ress and was surpri untouched to tof the Hi ost U.S mi ey flo below the snow line this p: national parks, Every va was not only Inhabited but as well. Hillsides had and terraced for er September 1989Model for Conservation ING ABRUPTLY from R: rdant forests of rhoda- dendron, bougainvillea, and bamboo, the Annapurna Range forms a mainificent are of snow-mantled peaks, five bearing the name Annapurna By tradition the Nepalese believe these mountains are the home of the gods. For centuries both Buddhist and Hinclu faithful have made the pilgrimage to the sacred shrines at Muktinath. Today pilgrims of a different stripe are flocking te this area for trekking adventures: a three-to-four- week hike along the cireutt trail around the range or an %,500- foot climb up the Modi Khala valley into the Annapurna Sanctuary, Much more than a park, the thousane-squuare-mile Annapur- na Conservation Area Project (ACAP)—established in Septem ber 1986—incorporates some of the latest thinking in environ- mental management. Recog- hhizing that there can be na meaningful conservation with- out the active involvement of << National park the local population, ACAP's founders vested villagers with control over the natural re- sources of the region. Nearly alll 40,000 inhabitants live w in the intensive-use vone, where forest cover has been severely stripped in the last two decades ‘There the people are encouraged to use alternative energy sources and other conservation techniques to safeguard the environment, for wildlife, for visitors, and, most important, for themselves Annapurna: Sanctuary for the Himalaya 397the dangers that trekking and modern: ization pose to Himalayan « Te nis 5 worse, The native populat pura region is 0, and hop x a other Himalayan 1 There World Wildlif in the world ty, Tthas the 2 Annapurna for d foot summit of Anne. alleys, the Kali Gandaki. J toward the plain of the Ganges to the south les slope and bar the north.” At first many Annapurna villagers, farm 1 the idea ard of whi ppes merge into Ti fter forced relocat idents ever saw any tour- mey. A local leader ridiculed trekkers ur mountains, eat our fo it by our fires, but they do tand World Wild. al park: low the lenc Gyanendra Bir Bikram Shah, ch trust, who declared mnservatis neld, it involve and benefit the local people.” tive reaction turne In 1986 the ACAP was id, with a dedical The residents erated by the local people, e King Ma Tru World Wildlife Fur mors until entrance fees—set at 200 eight dollars) pe and the inhabitants se ar November mo 1 the Ant a rock to look F trekking area Here the Himalaya pause and step na Sane exposé an oval amphitheater threecomplain of in eir traditions. Buddhist village of Pisa: archap, an outdoo latrine (far left) I the trails. At Ghandi employee Devi Prasad Gurung (below) paints to rem Fesponiwide. Ri are Hine drape peaks over 21,000 feet hi ‘ar below the id streams roll ctuary ithe floor of the Se n, but I suspe The trail was cle worst just Smoke poured thi thatch roofs of several crude teahouses crammed with trekkers and porte ny wile, and her brother, Robert Cushman, first-titne visitor to Asia, were not far be. hind and I wanted them to see not trash walked the last hun apuchare Base Camp, the he Sanctuary, we found the A sign proclaimed "Cleanup We later learned that two groups, pansored by the Ki the ACAP, the olf ndruk,, had Sanc surrounded by h edb into Mi Mahendra Trust and zed by the vill watt t sidents and A decade a «yond Chomeor 124 lodges, some even with ers of visitor: Increasing num day packs and eat a a few dollars a day rity who hire Sherpa cn o.carry our for and gear, cook meals uf Each of our porters was paidabout two rsa day Chomrong we met Katsuyuki Hayask a4. old Japan ack driver who Is a legend in Nepal. The Nepalese Bijuli Japani—the Japanese Electricity Man le trekking in Nepal, da woman on the ve of death from a severe respiratory condition ry ecalled sad. y. “Afterward I wond have done, and itoccurred Squeezing maximum energy from her firewood, « lodge awner in Ghandruk (right) cooks on an ingenious hearth. Acrogs town aworker installs a similar ayatem (tap left), whieh transports water heated at the hearth to a storage drum Jar wse in bathing and cleaning. At ‘ACAP headquarters a salar hot-water heater demonstrates another energy source that Annapurna residents are tapping National Geographicelectricity and the proper equipment we could: have given her extra oxygen.” ‘The next year Hayashi returned and installed a'small wind-powered electric generator in the Annapurna region. But it was useless, “Not enough wind,” he told us with a sheepish grin. "So the next year I built a water-powered generator.” He swept a hand toward the majestic peaks around us. “Plenty of running water in Nepal,” Hayashi's generators—initially supplied ‘with his own money and later by donors— now power three lodges near the Sanctuary, Butthe King Mahendra Trust directed Haya- shito reroute an unsightly network of electric lines that spoiled what many-regard as the world’s most spectacular view. Certainly that view is breathtaking from ‘Chomrong. Here, where Himalayan life zones join abruptly, Machapuchare's icy spire (pages 390-91) rises out of subtropical jungle with bamboo, fern, rhododendron, ‘and more than a hundred species of orchids, According to Capt. Thaman Gurung, ‘Chomrong’s village chairman and owner of its biggest lodge, ACAP has broughtanew spirit of cooperation among the villagers. “We now have nurseries to grow wood for fue! and @ kerosene depot so that we can pto- hibit the use of fireweod in and around the Sanctuary. ACAP is helping us train forest guards, repair and clean trails, build latrines, and use electricity, not wood, for cooking and lighting wherever possible “Last July,” the captain continued, “ACAP's director, Mingma Norbu Sherpa, came here to help train lodge owners from the area. We learned about keeping custom- ors healthy and happy—proper food prepara- tion, sanitation, and the basic comforts, Happy people,” he added, grinning, “spend more money," “Are other villages as committed to the project?” Tasker “Go to Ghandruk and see for yourself." Ghandruk is one of the largest villages in the area. When Mingma Norbu Sherpa came to speak, 600 people turned out. They adopted rules similar to the ones in Chom- rong-and accepted ACAP's offer to contribute two tupees to every local rupee spent on community projects. In this pleasant hill town it was all too easy to forget the wildness of the surrounding 404 (On the beaten track to the Annapurna Sanctuary, the village of Chamrang has become the focus of intense effarts to rehabilitate the environment, Kerosene staves, tree nurseries, and a prohibition on wood burning in and around the Sanctuary are key elements in the max- ter plan—one that is working because the local people want-it to work. lands. As Barbara, Robert, and I set offon the final leg of our 25-day trek in T-shirts under.a hot sun, [recalled crossing the 17,769-foot-high pass known as Thorung La 17 days earlier. An unstasonable storm had dumped five feet of snow on the area, killing twe porters and turning back hundreds of unprepared trekkers. Now the danger of the heights was behind us as we pitched our last camp in a.quiet forest clearing. Suddenly a group of some 50 grim-looking villagers emetged from the foi and for a moment we thought we might be robbed. But the leader explained their mission. The night before, he-said, on this very hill, a woman had been killed by a leapard as she returned home, A few weeks earlier the leopard hart snatched a child from its mother’s arms.and devoured it. Now the villagers were deter- mined to find the leopard and kill it, ‘To me the situation was profoundly dis~ turbing. How can we expect local people to conserve rare wild animals that attack and kill women and children? Later I told Mingma about the incident. He merély shook his head. “YT doube that any law would have stopped them ftom going after that cat," he said. Thad to agree with Mingma's oft stated thesis that a Western-style national park system is not feasiblein an undeveloped country like Nepal. Whether the decision to kill « man-eating animal is made by park authorities or by a village committee, the result is the same. But the villagers would be breaking the law, while the authorities would be upholding it. The ACAP is a grand experiment in teach- ing local people to make their own decisions regarding their future. Often those decisions are difficult ones, balancing short-term bene- fits against long-term gains. The future of the ACAP depends on how the Nepalese people handlé those decisions. Knowing them as I do, I'dsay the project isin good hands. 1] National Geagraphic, September 1989Samurai Aphids SURVIVAL UNDER SLEGH ARTICLE AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARK W. MOFFETT ia aphids hang th a slender thre the aphid iew, Suddenly the ¥ setting the into a sp seconds the cling cariously t e being flung aphid species most fram the fallen aphid is doomed This drama unt nf bamboo ering clu tect ers into a tree jarge whit species of samurai aphidsoldiers were a revelation when first described by Japane scientist Shigeyuk: Aoki in 1977, He and his wife, Kurosu, are among the few scientists forging the way in aphid-soldier research, Psendovegmis aphids were one of the first. samurai species Aaki discovered. Here members of a colony cluster on a freshly sprouted bamboo shoot (left), extracting plant sap through elongated mouthparts in much the same way a mosquito suc blood, Exuding a snowy dusting of wax, they belong to & geoup known as woolly aphids Scattered among plimp winged and wingless aphids are soldiers. These slender females are actually nymphs (immature aphids) of unusual appearance Compared with other nymphs in the colony, which grow to adult hood after molting several times, aphid soldiers grow little if at all, Trapped in juvenile bodies, they cannot reproduce Although aphids are gregari ‘ous; colony mem bers in most species show ne social behavior. However, samurai species rable to termites ants, and some re compas aru © Wasyis and bees— Guster there isa division xt of labor, with er some individuals devoting their lives to protecting the colony, Scientists believe this cooperative behavior may be the result of ¢ the group. The soldi ism ranks samun phids among the most social of animals, Confronted thy pre aphids of other species try Zonlogit Mars W. Marretr "Life in a Nutshell” appeared in the June 1989 magazine Samurai Aphids: to flee enemy or smear it with sticky secretions. Many predators larger than the aphids are not or they may kick an deterred by such feeble actions. Perhaps the best of defense for most aphids is repro- duction — generating individuals so quickly that calonies grow and spread to new places, and predators simply cannot keep pace, Without soldiers the huge of Prewdoregma would he extremely attractive to predue tors. Piled one on top of the other in dense mats of tens of thousands, the aphids could be devoured at will. Yet the sol- dicrs successfully defend the colony from many predators Defense among samurai aphids is aggressive, T pluck a maggot, or larva, of the Allo grapsa flowerfly froma non- samiteai colony of aphids and Under Siege rit ton Pseudoregma col- ony. These maggots are ordi: narily able to move unhinie among their aphid prey, butt they are.unprepared for soldiers. Two climb onto the maggot — trans more than ten times their length and grasp it near its head with their forelegs. The soldiers butt it with their heads, puncturing its body with their needle-sharp horns (above) They jam in their horns again and again while rocking back and forth, The bleeding larva. gyrates frantically, then plam- tmx om the bamboo, still in oldiers tenacious grip Because they are masters at combating soldiers, a few insects successfully prey on samurai aphids. Fortunately for th predators, soldier defenses often are inept compared with the bites and stings of termites and unts se 409cycle of the samurai aphids is poarly known, but it is probably complex, like that of most woolly aphids. Typically an egg.is laid in autumn on a primary host—a tree or shrub 1). Hatching in the spring, the founder (2} of a new colony seeks a gnod feeding si reproduce wing which in some species produce more-of the same (4), These aphids, such as Ceratoplyphina bambusae (inset above), make their home inside a gall on the host, gradually formed when the insects inject saliva into the plant, altering its growth pattern. In spring or summer the colony prow duces wiriged “migrants Which fly to a secondary host and begins to plant, such as grassor herbs. Here a migrant gives birth (6) 10 wing aphids (7), which in turn may (S)asthe grows on the plant's n rare instances more nts may be produced (9) to spreail the colony to other seeand- plants. Psendaregma aphids (inset left), howeve: depend on wingless niewborns, whieh are light enough to be ear- ried by the wind; if ang happens to hind om bamboo, she may start anew colony, In autumn winged migtants (10) retutn to the paritaaty hosts and give birth (14) to dwarf males and femiales (12). They ‘mate, and the females each lay a single egg. They sao die and the eyele begins again. surface. gy imi, nce: enters Abr, nem af aus, Arf? eR,all aphidls are fer at reproduce by par thenogenesis—with sex. This resul in pring genetically identical to their mothers. Aphids lack the larval and pupal stage: insects, and for most of the year they also s 5 Hive birth Is a.com sight inan aphid colon Emerging Pseudorogm: down with p the egg stage each dle her off- mide butin fact she provides no parental care. Her next birth may be either a nor- mal aphid or anc how an offspring’ determined is not known. ct, the non-soldier embryos inside her body already contain ndchildren mother seems baménsae ta their nem ian pierce them. ‘T sldiers dev from nymphs who have mol and massive forele Scientists believe that the behavior of the Taiwa: aphid Asteg fige provides clues t soldiers This speci of urai aphids — lacks a.distinet soldier caste r, all of thes Howe ist that are Fighting a feedin hungry Astegopteryx aphic her horns to butt ano t drink ing plant sap. The aggressor is by her colony mate, who swings at her with her body (right) Cevate sents a more advanc samurai aphid evolutic tes also lacks s¢ yet whorn citn use its horns to a predator's eggs. By developing specialized sald i aphiels have taken on a far more dangerous una lanigera repre sami arge and essive predators. Still, umuriti aphids sometimes their origi ‘aver food. e evolved stent pathway tropical and tropical areas many species— including samt; ids have colonies that last for more than ase: For example, P: are found on bamboo nd, Yet Japanese biolo gists Seiki Vamane and Tsukasa discovered the per- protect th wingedAttack of the samurat aphids the pleasant business, Only about the | to be seen rain down and bite any -anning 0 tree with binoc 2h in th if the Cevatoglypis eal wrax suberifolia, commonly called snowbell ain a clos omeone two bile times their size, the soldit bite my knee as if they were i ite bloody form: three days perspec veuts down a | ent warded of soldiers. Slicing tcauliflower-tike Js a labyrinth of y heavy attack re the colony rash on my leg s, of which about A young gall with the wice its rs al justaperhaps fi even direc P' The maggots can now begi -eding almost immedintel after hatching During a November visit to: es change as the fluctuated. Surp phiel covered I hast elf so still that sis, wk ts of hone s{top). Thi luck dew from the why thr er needed nutr Te a droplet, th hind legs to tr honey b » the plant. Fallen nts phi elatives —the "mann Old Testa f the Forexa is only oe eirigerator witha money ack guarantee until the year 2000. Itisnot the one you have now. THE DEPENDABILITY PEOPLEFROM THE PRESIDENT A champion of research Cee eres ‘hh committee’s chairm emph some of the most ce When I first met Met in matters. TI brated scientists of our tool very eof this calls for new blood, new energy day: Jane Goodall man,” said Jane Goodall (with We'll Jacques-Yves Cousteau, L ne, ¢ left, in 1989) chairman. 8. B. Leakey, Dian Fosse whose study of wild chimpan- Dr. Barry C. Bishop, far Atcru in th Inuinched by careers, he edthe prom- gre appreciate th until he spent a few days NAFHIEND to re hat from.our new 0 say, has agreed to zee w nSociety pleas ginto accept this role. A geographer bas conducted research tic, the Antarctic the Himalaya, whe Mount Eve t,andT. —served.as vice ise of their work and 5 for funding their prc Chairman of the Society Committee for Ri hand Exploration for the past 14 scaled t, Barry has airman of the ‘art, Tight, bath mem- committee since 1984, I ed the high arth "88: Carmichael, Dale Ste hers of th enthusiasm for research pthe committee's apnual began early in his career. In Changing Geographic own tomorethan — 1934and 1 Perspectives. the field camps o1 c ide h Dakota, for me dedication and im on flights af to his work that Mel demon. plorer strated so well. And Mel, as the will organization in science _continue to give us the benefit of since his valuable ing to nee Il bring the He bn: both as Pr Rap 1 (1967-1978) the hista and Ch fthe Boardof Explorer Far 1987) and has “Our rey ceand 4 integrity on all our activities after 57 years of dedicated vice, Dr. Melvin M. Payne courage we can mt tepped down as the Society is pu challenging year: Alef Akessd- Trustees (19 s chairman cme Il the wisdom and cer in the aheadGive the magazine thats “without peer in magazine photography. National Geographic's photography — Share your pride by giving a gift of Society studio is literally the universe. membership to your friends. memberships, mail your che That's how the Americ of form today! Editors deseribed NATIONAL hy when they top Magazine Awards. srs ‘o order gift with thisGravity Of particular interest in your outstanding very difficult subject (May 1989) gravity’ simpacton spaceflight. The opportunity Thad to talk with the author anc photographer during their fight on the NASA KC-135 arldedto my enjoyment of the final product. As many ervant readers have probably noted, the pic- neon page $83 shows mestruggling with tooth- te, not jumping rope. This photograph aptures the exhilaration of being free of the carth’s pull as well as the difficulties that come with this freedom Kew REIGHTLEW, NASA Johnton Space Cen Houston, Texas sion of dozens of alert readers aug stip. Ta answerone who asked what happened afterward, the toothpaste, once squeezed, kept coming and when normal gravity resumed fell ta the floor ge $81 says that “gravity's pull is particularly strong” over the “Indian Ocean anomaly,” causing satellites to drop, Page 883 says “grav- ity is... noticeably: weaker in... the Indian CHERYL 51 me: Gravity is generally weak in the Indian Ocean, but north of Madagascar it is stronger, hence an anomaly, ‘The article overemphasized the possibility of a new fifth force. It should be stated fy the dependent research grou nat been able reproduce precisely the results attributed to he existence of a fifth force. Moreover, the experiments that have reported positive fifth- forte (sixth-force) results appear to disagree with each other. It is difficult to understand why the article would say the null results obtained in the Galileo experiment of Niebauer and Faller and the torsion balance experiments of Adelberzer and Stubbs, both of which have been repro~ duced, are "disappointing" or “empty.” Qi the contrary, these results placeinteresting limits on Einstein's general theory of relativity even if the fifth-force conjecture fade: De. T. M, Nrenaven Max Planck Institute Garching, West Germany | ple like you, 1 Toler, age six, and his Canine Companion SERVICE dog, Hardly, What a Difference a Dog Makes! Canine Companions for Independence is successfully training dogs to serve as arms, legs and ears for people who have physical disabilities, ‘With Handy’s assis tance and love, Tyler's life hi changed dramatically, At the heart of sto- ties like this are peo- Foe membership dollars are the key to pro- viding dogs like Handy for people like Ty Your Canine Companions for Indepe: membership includes our quarterly newsletter, the Courier, and a special Canine Companions lapel pin. Give a gift of friendship, love sd independiente. For information, 1 to Canine Companions for Independence, P.O. Box 446, Santa Rosa, CA 95402-0446, or call (707) 528-0830. CCT SERVICE dogs prl! wheet chara, rericve items, and nur‘You again demon oring and diffieu! dlarity. But Tm The deer th of gravity deereusc mendous plate: coule urface half the see th virt of these plateaus were almost 10 ti ree a tion ae Panam City, Flavie Rea an bush pilot tin ged by Uwe Gearge’s tepuis arti- was a rediscovery. The world’s hi are still places on the planet waterfall was,in fact, d explorer Ernesto Sanchez Ia Cruz told tom ther, Emeste Sanchez Story AGnes M. Story SancHez Naples, #t DODGE GRAND CARAVAN. dodse Grand Caravan is the giant-size version ‘of America’s first and only front-wheel drive minivan. With an extra 25 cubic feet inside, it's more than big enough for tune Joving families. And Grand Caravan han- dies it all with a car-iike feel, and available features like 2 3.0L fuel-injected V-6 and electronic 4-speed Ultradrive automatic, the mast advanced transmission you can buy. Plus, there's our exclusive 7 year or 70,000 mile Protection Plan* The 1989 Dodge Grand Caravan. A great way to increase your recreation room. OF DODGEAlthough author-photographer Uwe George may not have recognized the screams he heard in the labyrinth, I nm sure he encountered the source. It practically ran over him. Mountain lions emit one of the most hair-raising screams I have ever heard. Theirscreamand the eche reso- nating off the large wet rocks would sound like a. lion in a bathtub. So sleep better, Mr. George, and continue producing timeless masterpieces featured by my favorite source of information, and enlightenment. Jurrrey RvaN McCARTHY Snowmass Village, Colarndo, ‘The Explorers Club of Pittsburgh conducted expeditions to Auyan-tepui in 1968, 1971, and 1972. A 60-page report was published, including an original map of 100 square miles of the top of Auyan-tepui. The area is indeed wonderfully ‘exciting; I would enjoy returning with the men involved in our expeditions. Dr. TAN L. Jrmak Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania Baltic Asa Latvian American T thank you for yout sen- sitive, insightful article on the Baltic region. In choosing a journalist of Estonian origin with a good understanding ofthe area'shistorical back- ground, you gave a depth missing from much current press coverage of ethnic unrest. I wander myself if the Soviet loss to the mujalidin (A> ghanistan) was fiot an inspiration and a catalyst to the many diverse ethnic groups now under ‘Russian political domination whoalso donotfeet ‘historical ties with the Soviet Union DAGMARA BE, BASTTES Alamoyordo, New Mexico ‘Seven coithtries and three annexed states isa lot to handle in one story. No wonder the “secretive oblast of the Russian Republic” could not be dis- cussed. Vet this area deserves some mention. It was German for 700 years from Pomerania to East Prussia. Millions of Germans lived there, flourished, built cities like Stettin, Kolberg, Danzig, and Koenigsberg. Their culture and agriculture were the envy of the Baltic States, ‘Thearea was not; as thearticle put it, “trampled by some form of Germans on their way east." Toclay the fate of these Germans, dictated by Yalta and Potsdam, is virtually unknown in this country, They wereall forced to leave in 1945-45, Poland was moved west into their land while ‘Russia took over the larger part of East Prussia ‘Millions died in this forced evacuation, and the ‘rest of these disinherited refugees now live in East and West Germany. In bitterness they would read your article, which did not mention ‘the former Baltic province of East Prussia with ‘its capital Koenigsberg, where the philosopher Immunuel Kant taught the categorical impera- tive und its proud message for a better world, Kraus Hecx Aberdeen, New Jersey ‘Thank youfor pointing out that the Poles are his- torieally the most recent additions to the Baltic shoreline. The area was Germanic until after World War 1. But the name Baltic is derived from the Lithuanian baidés, ot white. DonatasZ. Ceatus London, Canada Swiss Deforestation ‘The report about the Swiss forest peril is synthe- sized very well, You only missed writing about the many ski resorts that still want to eut down more trees just to create new ski runs, ANDREAS AMRETN Minusio, Switzerland ‘The painting on pages 640-41 is excellent. What other magazine would include a couple of lav flying fighter jets, with ground shadows (lower left}, toshow realism. Keep up the good work Mrcnart Weis Santa Clara, California Braving the Northwest Passage “raving the Northwest Passage” is an example of sheer madness. The trip had no practical pur~ pose. Anything they did had been better done before. I realize people have a right to destroy themselves if they wish, but can imagine the call for help to the Coast Guard of Canada or any other reseue agency from friends ot relatives of the two so-called explorers. There seem to be so many Worthy causes to spend this kind of money on. This letter may sound like heresy to some readers, but I think it is time to speak out, (CHARLES F. SMALL Carver, Massachusetts To have successfully navigated the Northwest Passage under windpower alane deserves mare acclaim than these men probably received. Mare important, they achieved @ rare experience in- nately sought by all of us. They confronted the brutal reality and magnificent beauty of nature on a simple, meaningful level. I imagine their ‘voynge wasone in which they came closer to dis- Covering the truth about their human selves. HeNry C, Lewis Chalfont, Pennsylvania Letters should ba addressed to Members Farum, National Geographic Magasine, Box 37448, Washington, D.C. 20023, and should include sender's address ond telephone number. Not all letters can be used. Those that are will often be edited and excerpled. National Geographic, September 1989The first Russian collector's plate... a Bradford Exchange recommendationSEPTEMBER 1989 Halting the Importation of Bolivian Textiles TE export and sale of benutiful but important artifscts from past societies hin beommie a recurrent problem for scholars (Nanioxat, Gece ‘aevriuc, Augist 1981, Jaly 1944, Aprit 1886, October 1988. Murch TORK. No Jexsaproblemisthe sile af items rnin ceuflure that still exists The U:S. government has hanned imports fram one sachage-lt culls the Aymara of the Bolivian Andes Acting.om a request frum the Bolivian government, U.S. officials tirred the importation, unless approved by Bolivianauthoriticn, ofantique textiles woven in the Ayinars community of Cocoma (Fight). The U.S. Informa tion Agency'< Cultural Property Adti- sory Committee ruled that continued importation —which had grown enor moualy in the past decade threat to the historical record of the Aymara culrure (Groceanic. February 1927) and thus constituted an emergency under the 1983 Cultutal Property Ioplementntion Act ‘Cononni’s textiles —ponchos havwls, ane tunics woven from alps for vicusla hair—dute back at far as th Eth centitry. Onlyin rocemt years hiv anthropologists learned that these tex tiles, preserved in sacred hundles, play a key role in Caromn’s political, social, stonomie, anid religious i Nearly half of Coramn’s teatiles have made their way to the U.S. collectors miirket pe No Square Corners ona Round World ‘ou can't fit a round peg inte a square hole, and you can't fit a aund world onta a rectanguhir map: In fsct you should even So say leven major geog ‘organizations, including the Nati Geographic Society, who hive adopt- ed! a resolution urging publishers, the ROVETHmeR! agencies 10 slur werd maps, such as those drawn, on the {amiliur Mereator jection earth is round, with o comprmied entirely of circles. flattening the globe warface to prodiice a rect, sige portions of the world, ar the Poles. Such a maps straight edges and sharp cartier» pro~ mote etroncous itipressioie nates the resolution, which originated in the American Cartographic Assiciation comunittec 6a sup projections The National Geographic Society recently twitched fram one noetectan= gular projectiva tw another. Ax Chiet Cartographer John Garver explained ¢ wninc, December 1988), the new projection, “Amthur H. Robindon, gives “a ‘nid mone realistic view of the world.” t ‘wencATOR Not ceroomanes tev Rebuilding a Monastery on the World's Roof “oval Buddhist leaders andl interns- tional groups. plan 10. join fehuilding the main temple of Nepal's Thynngboche destroyed by a fire in Tinuary. The monastery, ona 12,70t}foot-high ridge in Sagarmatha National Park en route o- base: camp of Mount Everest is jell-kriown to Himalayan trekk many agrec that it is one of the most beautiful places in the world. ‘An alectric heater was blamed for setting the temple afire when memt at Thyiuigboche’s monks were in Katheniundh esc capital, attending tor a lama, The monsstcry had oly recently obtained electric power, Uirough a project jrrovide an alternative fo-cutting trees for firewood (Grogeanieic, November 188), Fortunat (the build ing’s religious. “The original Thyanghoche tery was built in 1919. Destroyed by an earthquake in 1934, if wins soon rebuilt and hax become a major religines ced ier. It is farted for its aiinual Mani Rimdu festival (Geoouarnic, June 1982) depicts the glory of Buddhism, Sie Edmund Hilary ts raising funds for the rebuilding through. Hima- layan ‘Trust/Thynngboctie Monastery account at Nepal Grindluys Bank in Kathmandy. Monastery;OPENING YOUR HOME | AUTHORS WANTED TO AN BY N.Y. PUBLISHER AFS EXCHANGE STUDENT | A WILL CHANGE YOUR WORLD 1 Invest Some Time in America’s Youth cals Bea AFS HOSTING PROGRAMS ae VOLUNTEER 1-800-AFS-INFO Meee LEAOEN 313 EAST 43rd STREET CONTACT YOUR COUNTY ‘WEW YORK, WY 10017 EXTENSION OFFICE DON'T EVEN THINK OF BUYING A TREADMILL... CONSIDER THE OVERWHELMING ADVANTAGES OF NORDICTRACK { CPREE BROCHURE a vmEO | | \ 1-800-328-5888 | quailty 7OGRAPHIC Mini-explosion in White Tiger Births mong the mest beatiful of all uni K nial, the white tigerhasbecomen favorite of Americans since the first one toy arrive in this country lohini, ot Enchuntress—settled in Washington's Natiomil Zoo. (Gee- ‘ouatmic. May 1961): Atmutintsttatno? the Bengal tiger, white thyers are very rare, Before 1951, when the Maharaja of Rews captured a white mile cub— Proposed sites tor 2uni-Citoia Nationa! istorical Park Méhini’s father —ind began to tired them, nly nine fad Been sighted if Faxdia’s jungles in SO yen Mohini mothered several white cubs, starting with Rewati (Grogs ie, April 1970). The most prominent collection of whito tigers outside India belongs to illusionists Siegfried and Ray, who use the animals in their Show, Their menugeric grew Last December when a fomile white tiper rum Sita fi fothree white male cubs above). The entertain how own [4 of the World's 100 06 120 white teers A Zuni National Park: 1 600 Years of History enemies Coro WY sale et Se ae 0 Finbar vem oe New Mesioo, in 1540, he was onc of the first Europeans to make ewitact with the natives of the American Southwest. In his quest for w trenwure-filled land ealled Citolu,, he instead the thriving. ugricultural society of the Zuni, with major urt ‘real ruins suggesting a significant hive tory. Todiy’s Zuniuredescondantyol » succession of peoples who have fived ft the area singe: 4.01.40 “Tiiat historical continutiim will be the Focus of the new 2: ational Historical Park beiny pd im Ne by Congress in 1988 Inuead af dian owners, the ice willlease it fer at paw takingland from Rational Park Se fronn the Zan) mopierate the park an gions histirry foot visti anal Zain) alike Local wind federal officials nn the Zuni tibe—which has sought such a park the more thun 20 yeurs —are naw im what a Park Service spokesman cath the “heavy. planning stage.~ mong other things. they will deter- min the park's boundaties. The park will almost certainly include such as Hawikuh. the Village of the Greai Kivas, Yellow House, and Kechipbowi, whete the Zuni and theit ors the Mognilon uid Anaaa {Groauarine ated a rich sul ARole for the Male in (Fish) Childbirth “TT hoyellowheod jawfish jsashycrea- ture, tenvling Its burrow an the CD sundy boltam off the Cayman Islands. Dating the mating season a tale jnwfish becowieseven more retir- is He"s busy ineubating the female's fertilized eags— in his mouth, J. Michiel Kelly. who spent’ two oaths photographing a pair of jaw= fish, reports that the female spawned ral successive cez massce, Each the male then took the exis. his mouth and storing thom in the antes ty of is burrow, Early in the four-t0- ay Incubation period the m took the eggs into his mouth for just a few minuteseuch bour, holdingshom in his open jaws anil lerting the current wish overthem. Often he spat the exe nto the current. thei ripidly sucked them Bock in. Ench day brought more of this activity until iy the end of the incubation period the malespem mos of the: day saitside ik bureow, rating he current every thres-or Bs int ites, éfemaleahow ‘ofthis. Kelly says t mating season th nr ibd gat." dooinierestinany icend of the male looked "hagAmerica is hooked on foreign oil. Today, we import almost 40 percent of the oil we use—even more than in 1973, when the Arab embargo plunged us into gas lines, rationing, and fecession, The more we can tise nuclear energy, instead of imported oil, to generate electricity, the less we have to JUST SAY NO. depend on foreign nations. The 110 nuclear plants in the US. have cut ourforeign oil dependence by over three billion barrels since 1973. And they have cut foreign oil payments by over one hun+ dred billion dollars But 110 nuclear plants will not be enough to meet our growing electricity demand. More plants are needed. To help kick the foreign oil habit, we need to rely more ‘on our own energy sources, like nuclear energy For a free booklet on nu- clear energy, write to the US. Council for Energy Awareness, PO. Box 66103, Dept SNO4, Washington, D.C. 20038 COUNCIL FOR ENEWEY AWARENESS Nuclear energy means more energy independence.we ~ ¢E - COLOR LASER COPIER Bill: |NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE GILBERT M, GROSVENOR, Frevidensaind Charmier WILWUR F. GARRETT, fenr JOSEPH TUDGE, Senior Aniociait Fiditae THOMAS R. SMITH, Associate Eaitor (CHARLES MeCABRY, Euliornt Large SENIOK ASsISTANT EnTTOMS ‘Toomtat Cane, Serms » Set Caney Cawapwpy » Waesan Chae, Espen ‘Xia non, Enron + Test KEN. Atmpaphy © Runt Re Mas a ‘Saws W Marten, Puc O- Lovie Macsareha Cane! Cm +Eutaaet A: MOU. Eile “Hows E: Past. ets Sank Poin, Mewisrber» Lisiey 8 Rote, Romesh Shei: Reai nine airs + Sex A Vai, Dlg "Wo ALLAN Rares iam » May EDITORIAL SERVICES ‘panera dean VW fica St Soe, lam, are Rar: ine ie Amen MeL. armen May TELEVISION “BaLEL Sit ier Proton twee Comes Mins, Moun Re: Runt EDUCATIONAL SERVICES OF THE SOCIETY Menge, Rian Cystine Oui eto MargterSadeen, ean Texte, Pemeiqe Tio natn Toe, Bacar We AMBP PORE -Exrame Gunlil Crome,Fnresr and ast Paar Pag Abc uns (Doma Lawrie Teor naar hes ‘Aten: ln aor Meeps). Dee. To Tague Cee V Dre me ‘Faumr Bic Free Moy Ame ames Chae Hatre o ‘Tots: tert ar J esr att, Tomar Chat, Rarbars A Page, (lnds Rone Dura Sowers Vee Nocera. Ges ease, ee nha erileatwan Aue: Ea ua vedi Ast cs sar tacit sain Roecarions Namen Cheep Baran, Der ‘treme fue Azioar Purdie, Mower adour fanaa City ety Wachee UMinrers Lemme (Macc Taseetans Hie thas dine TP ari Panic See eat Pr "int Ween Alene DW uaa el sD Pete Bal Trak Gonpee, Aas Ee, Susana KP ‘Femrartond Aur; Sin 8 Gar 3p Dee “Enccanceas Pate Sry Pass ase Soe All igts rested. Nine Gimeno Bend *f)) GEOGRAPHIC Jf SOCIETY For the incrense aad diffusion (of geographic knewiletgpe™ Th Maron Gimuanri Scie ris {nWisbaiae D's es pga cei acd ‘chon copie. So Ut Sooty ho Steppe! mere en 518 spre a moneh ‘poten sang known of earth es an (GILBERT M. OROSVENOR, Peident COWEN R. ANDERSON, Eesctne Vie Prenat Senior Vier Presideux ALFRED J. HAYRE Tres RAYMOND T MEELLIOOTT. IR, OBERT 8 SIMS bee Pease PREDERICK © GALE LEONARD 1, GRANT. JOSETIUN- HOGAN. JAMES P KELLY. ADRIAN LOFTIN. FR_LEWIS P LOWE, ‘ROSS L MULFORD, H. GREGORY PLATES, CLETSPRIDE EDWIN W SNIDER, Secrrory SUZANNE DUPRE, Corporme Coun soaan o7 TaUsreEs Sei enone ne Sea Sapien ccome Sete oer arene SERRA mows wien nea aoe Tome Race een iN nae rasceee SEE pan cinen aon 24 BANS, ai o 6 ser rere meta rT en norma Se a as saeaee See seer striae Gua te i ae dion sian Gaal Mastin MER de eee ht ae TEE ame Saanansoit m a rpinnae une EN ta RATHASIEL P.REED Benne Een MPRANCIS SAUL I Peston, WLP Sel Geng MOWESCT.C SEAMANS, ‘Deparina o¢ Astana Aung, ME TaDeTEES ENTER CRAWFORD Hi GREENEWALT, CARYL P MASK Seas. LYNCH: JONINSEN. CURTIS A EaBaay, AWM ACCHIESACEY ALAR, J LAURAXCH ROCKEVELLEN. PREDEKICCO. VORB, JAREES WAKELIS. te JAMES L WEEE, CONRAD L WIRTH, cOMMIETEE Fok RESUAMEN ASD EXPLORATION eee) C. Pag, Charm Cage pwn ee hotrig Hae Bos Puen! ‘Rewerck Benin WSotea, chem: Waa Eran ‘Gitmeer M Groersce. Cane F Hise. Treas SeKtie, Bory T aoc ewan Aocne” nt "Semimnsan Ewin, Sse Dare aac Me Beane dn ‘tty Sei tra Proce Weds ae inven Cress tsa er ‘Macon fe Chewur 6 Uvees ane "Wau, Be nent Ged 8. Chanson ree. Mat T ‘eran Miatente Uf stooge ums 0 AigHi-Tech. 2060 A.D. ERHAPS NO GREATER EXTREMES exist in the P tableau of Christianity than those found in the two groups we prest One expressed itself in violene peace. One has had a signi world we know today, The other leaves virtually ho political mark but gave the world a simple taste in furniture and architecture widely copied and much admired Despite the differences, there are parallels. Azealous knight helped lead one group out of Europe to the Holy Land to return. The ier group, Jed out of Europe by a woman seek. ing a different "promised land,” never returned. The First Crusade, whose leaders included Godfrey of Bouillon, set out in 1096 to wrest Christian shrines from unbelievers. The pilgrim at times became a vengeful mob as they crossed Europe and the Middle East—inflicting destru tion akin to the biblical plagues and climaxing their Crusade by most unchristian wholesale slaughter of Muslims and Jews in Jerusalen Seven centuries later a simple English woman nn Lee, with a vision of living the perfect life, lect a persecuted religious sect called Shaking, Quakers from England toa more tolerant land. In America they founded communal villa, where they grew and prospered, As paci crusaders were warlike, the nt in this issue. 4 the other sought -ant impact on the nev jc asthe Shakers sought only to conquer their own personal devils. Both groups found what they sought. Atleast they reaped what they cowed. The First Crusade led to others —perhaps 12 ar more. In their zeal crusaders killed and were killed by the tens of thousands, contributing to a legacy of violence in the Holy Land that seems destined never Their conques fication for much of the European vnial expansion in the centuries that followed contrast the tolerance preached by the Shak- de them reluctant to proselytize, a practice that may ultimately lead to their own end Author Tim Severin followed in the footsteps of a warrior predecessor, Godfrey of Bouillon, to tell us about the First Crusade and the people he met. He experienced some of the hard such a journey, but, coming in peace, he wa received in peace along his 3,000-mile odyssey Staff writer Cathy Newman brings us the story of the Shakers, a fascinating group she has long admired for their sense of values and tasteful ways, She came in peace but didn't always find it. Though the Shak ated a life-style of quiet simplicity, Cathy encountered a tension as they realize that their own future is very much int bX bo ew! ¥ ‘ey lw Bee ae ices” se - pee ee ans | — eer aed pal ar deol glia Pee eke aes a Paar Wet ate ied ener most“Without the Credit Union, I'd be sleeping on the floor?’ Ray Hammond, Credit Union Member. “When | joined the credit union, 1 didn't have any money saved. Didn't have any credit. But my bed had broken and I needed a new oF Jenny Jervis, Cincinnati Central Credit Union. “There are lots of people like Ray. sho have a job, but haven't established credit. Sometimes it's hard il | was poor. They wouldn't even talk to me. 1: “We worked with Ray to setup a builget. Then arranged a payroll deduction, plan with his esuployer. That's the credit union difference” Ray: "| got the bed, and that's fine, But [tell you what my credit union did for me... «Lee like I.can da | feel like I'm important here,” Credit Union members, like Ray Hammond, are protected with — penne ete ae InsuranceGIVE YOU NINE "i ae ho WAYSOn) Assignment MysTERIoUS but willing photographer's rental posed for Eur Reep’s African village of Kalongo near Salinva, Malawi “Leame across the man and other dancers dre: car ed for a fs tival,” said Reed. “With no nvitation, they just took over the car. But they wouldn't say word.” Reed had a more alarming encounter when his camera was mistaken for a gun by people living near Malawi's border with jozambique, a country wrenched by civil war. Reed could sympathize. He himself has ducked bullets in El Salva dor and been abducted while working in Lebanon, Bur I'm more a docun of society than a combat phi rapher,” says Reed, winn an Overseas Press Club award in 1983, Hi miter olor images are featured in his most recent book, Bei City of Regret published by W. W. Norton 1988, Blas white pictur showing the effects af poverty on American children illustrate ‘ational Council ches television documentary released this year, Reed found his ¢ age of ten, photo; mother beside the Chri: alling at the je bis tree-in their Perth Amboy, New Jersey, home. After art schoo! he pushed himself through a five-year regimen that allowed little sleep: photographer by For novelist and travel writer Pave THeRoux, going to Malawi for his third NationaL GeocRaPitc article was a sort of homecoming. In Lilongwe he with a traditional doctor e}, one of many who still Jay, hospital orderly by night Few in his boyhood neighbor hood would now tangle with Reed, an imposing six feet two. But this stuclent of aikido and judo also writes poetry practice their art in the capital city’s central market. Born in Massachusetts, Ther- oux served for the Pt calls, the Peace Corp: more than “train us brilliantly and send us into the bush. It was nota bad way of running things” ‘Theroux’s 26 books include Riding the lron Rooster, which w sed on journeys he took by train—his preferred mode of travel—for his March 1988 arti cle, “China Passage." His | novel, My Secret History, was published in June. When not on the toad, he divides his time bx don and Cape Cod af hell is having to. place for'a long time,” Theroux. " says y idea of a hol day is going home.”ARE AMERICAS FORESTS Ou r OF T 4E Wooos: I urhori would r it of forest land t But ay we ha nd more trees than 70 year rent techniques of t products indowner These t aday, pl ling and other rek wth We're determined ito kee} ith th i per produces, A fe our for int 1-SO0-648-6699_ ny THE FLITURE ¢