Professional Documents
Culture Documents
266
Brazil
HIGHLIGHTS
Rio de Janeiro watch the people-parade on lovely Ipanema beach, explore bohemian
Santa Teresa and find your groove at wild samba clubs in Lapa (p280)
Salvador spend your days strolling colorful Pelourinho and your nights dancing to seriously addictive beats in the steamy capital of Afro-Brazilian culture (p339)
Ouro Prto wander the cobblestone streets in search of haunted churches and rare cachaas (sugarcane rums) in one of South Americas most beautiful colonial towns (p310)
Pantanal get a taste of the wildlife, from monkeys and macaws to caiman and capybaras,
in this incredibly biodiverse region (p332)
Off the beaten track visit the white-sand beaches of Caribbean-esque Alter do Cho, deep
in the heart of the Amazon (p387)
Best journey roll past sand dunes and splash through creeks, ducking palms as the untouched landscape unfolds around you, on the epic 4WD journey from Tutoa to Parque
Nacional dos Lenis Maranhenses (p373)
BRAZIL
FAST FACTS
Area: 8,456,510 sq km (about the size of
the continental United States)
Best bargain: people-watching on the
beach (never a cover charge, always fun)
Best street snack: agua de coco (coconut
water)
Budget: US$35-45 a day
Capital: Braslia
Costs: double room in a comfy pousada
(hotel) US$30, bus ride from Rio to Ouro
Prto US$13
Country code: %55
Famous for: Carnaval, the Amazon, music,
soccer, beaches
Languages: Portuguese and 180 indigenous languages
Money: US$1 = 2.2 reais
Phrases: legal, bacana (cool), repugnante
(disgusting), festa (party)
Population: 188 million
Time: GMT minus 3hr to minus 5hr,
depending on the region
TRAVEL HINTS
Eat well (and cheaply) at Brazils many per-kilo restaurants. School yourself in the varieties of
Brazilian buses (p279).
OVERLAND ROUTES
Brazils many border crossings include Oiapoque (French Guiana); Bonfim (Guyana); Boa Vista
(Venezuela); Tabatinga (Colombia and Peru); Brasilia, Guajar-Mirim, Cceres and Corumb (Bolivia); Ponta Por (Paraguay); Foz do Iguau (Paraguay and Argentina); Chu (Uruguay).
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B R A Z I L C u r re n t E v e n t s 267
Sprawling across half of South America, Brazil has captivated travelers for at least 500 years.
Powdery white-sand beaches, lined with palm trees and fronting a deep blue Atlantic, stretch
for more than 7000km. Dotting this coastline are tropical islands, music-filled metropolises and
enchanting colonial towns. Inland, Brazil offers dazzling sights of a different flavor: majestic
waterfalls, red-rock canyons, and crystal-clear rivers all just a small part of the natural beauty.
Its larger and more famous attractions are the Amazon and the Pantanal, the pair hosting some
of the greatest biodiversity on the planet. Wildlife-watching is simply astounding here, as is
the opportunity for adventure though you neednt go to the jungle to find it. Kayaking, rafting, trekking, snorkeling and surfing are just a few ways to spend a sun-drenched afternoon in
nearly any region in Brazil.
Some of the worlds most exciting cities lie inside of Brazils borders, and travelers need
not come to Carnaval to experience the music, dance and revelry that pack so many calendar
nights. Given the countrys innumerable charms, the only drawback to traveling in Brazil is a
logistical (and financial) one: you simply wont want to leave.
CURRENT EVENTS
HISTORY
BRAZIL
As Brazil welcomed the world to the 2007 PanAmerican Games in Rio de Janeiro, the country had much to celebrate. Its economy, the
worlds eighth largest, was booming. In fact,
before 2006 Brazil paid off its debts to the UN,
the IMF and the Paris Club ahead of schedule. Brazil, the buzzword of foreign investors,
seemed more stable than ever, and in trade
talks with both the US and other developing
nations, the country was clearly carving a new
place for itself in the world. In terms of energy, Brazil produces enough oil to meet over
90% of its needs, and as gasoline prices reach
staggering heights, many Brazilian motorists
run their cars on the less-polluting lower-cost
alternative of plant-derived alcohol.
Despite its successes, Brazil has serious
problems, with a long list of woes. Millions
of Brazilians still live in abject poverty. Meanwhile, crime continues to flare throughout
the country, even as the divide between rich
and poor remains absurd: 1% of citizens own
half the land. Whether the government can
address these seemingly relentless problems
will play no small role in Brazils future in
years to come.
268 B R A Z I L
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BRAZIL
70W
60W
50W
GEORGETOWN
VENEZUELA
Santa Elena
de Uairn
BOGOT
PARAMARIBO
GUYANA
CAYENNE
SURINAME FRENCH
COLOMBIA
Oiapoque
GUIANA
(France)
Bonfim
Boa Vista
Vila Velha
Amap
Caracara
BR
BR
Iana
Fonte Boa
Jur
BR
319
BR
ira
Carajs
l es
r es
Conceio do
Araguaia
Ri
Alta Floresta
163
Guayaramerin
Ri
Alta Floresta
d'Oeste
o M
a mo
r
080
BR
364
Vilhena
BR
Cuiab
Barra do
Garas
Rodonpolis
Cceres
Prto Joffre
Cochabamba
1
Santa
Cruz
Corumb
BR
BR
060
050
Jata
BR
153
Trs
Lagoas
Campo
Grande
PARAGUAY
RN
CHILE
Tropic
of
orn
Capric
Presidente
Prudente
Ponta Por
Maring
RN
BR
Cascavel
ASUNCIN
BR
Formosa
Posadas
Resistencia
Tucumn
PACIFIC
Corrientes
376
Registro
Curitiba
Foz do 277
Iguau
Salta
Limeira
So Paulo
369
34
Bauru
Londrina
BR
Antofagasta
Franca
So Jos
do Rio Preto
BR
267
5
R io P
BR
el o 116
ta
s Lages
Paranagu
Joinville
Florianpolis
BR
285
OCEAN
Cruz Alta
Caxias do Sul
ARGENTINA
Uruguaiana
RN
BR
11
290
RN
Rivera
La Serena
30S
Salto
Santa Fe
Crdoba
Paran
San Juan
Rosario
BUENOS
AIRES
SANTIAGO
70W
60W
Patos de
Minas
BR
The
Pantanal
Goinia
364
163
262
BRASLIA
Uberlndia
BR
20S
Porangatu
Pirenpolis
BR
Coxim
Sucre
Potos
So Felix
do Araguaia
Ri
BR
174
Lake
Titicaca
LA PAZ
Arequipa
BR
153
158
BOLIVIA
Palmas
Santa
Teresinha
BR
PERU
i ns
Te
BR
Pi
R i o T o c a nt
Ri
Humait
Tocantinpolis
Araguana
Carolina
g ua i a
us
BR
230
Ariquemes
Abun
Imperatriz
Marab
Carioca
de
Porto Velho
Cusco
Tucuru
222
Ji-Paran
Brasilia
010
230
Miritituba
Rio Branco
10S
BR
Altamira
BR
Ri
Boca do Acre
Prto Acre
BRAZIL
Maus
Itaituba
BR
364
Belm
Coari
u
R io P
Cruzeiro
do Sul
Ilha de
Maraj
as
az on
Santarm
Manaus
Tabatinga
R io A m
Tef
Rio
Iquitos
Presidente
Figueiredo
Abaetetuba
es
ol i m
Salinpolis
Neg
ro
Barcelos
A ra
Ri
Ilha Caviana
Macap
Rio
Tomar
So Gabriel
da Cachoeira
o X i ng u
Equator
156
Porto Grande
174
Porto
Alegre
Torres
Bacupari
BR
392 Pelotas
Ro Grande
Paysand
URUGUAY
Chu
MONTEVIDEO
50W
B R A Z I L H i s t o r y 269
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0
0
500 km
300 miles
40W
The Africans
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
Equator
BR
316
Jericoacoara
So Lus
Parnaba
Camocim
Santa Luzia
Fortaleza
Sobral
Caxias
Canoa Quebrada
Mossor
BR
Teresina
020
BR
BR
BR
Natal
304
116
316
BR
Sousa
343
Picos
Joo
Pessoa
Campina Grande
Olinda
BR
232 Caruaru
Juazeiro
BR
s co
o S
o F
r a nc i
Ri
101
407
Xique-Xique
Recife
Macei 10S
Aracaju
BR
324
Feira de Santana
BR
242
Bom Jesus
da Lapa
Valena
Salvador
BR
Vitria da
Conquista
116
Ilhus
BR
365
Montes
Claros
Porto Seguro
Itamaraju
BR
116
Tefilo Otoni
Governador
Valadares
BR
040
Belo Horizonte
Ouro Prto
Vitria
Barbacena
BR
20S
Campos dos
Goitacazes
101
Rio de Janeiro
Tropic of
Capricorn
During the 17th century African slaves replaced Indian prisoners on the plantations.
From 1550 until 1888 about 3.5 million slaves
were shipped to Brazil almost 40% of the
total that came to the New World. The Africans were considered better workers and were
less vulnerable to European diseases, but they
resisted slavery strongly. Quilombos, communities of runaway slaves, formed throughout
the colonial period. They ranged from mocambos, small groups hidden in the forests, to
the great republic of Palmares, which survived
much of the 17th century. Led by the African
king Zumb, Palmares had 20,000 residents
at its height.
More than 700 villages that formed as
quilombos remain in Brazil today, their growth
only stopped by abolition itself, in 1888.
Those who survived life on the plantation
sought solace in their African religion and
culture through song and dance. The slaves
were given perfunctory instruction in Catholicism and a syncretic religion rapidly emerged
(see Religion p272). Spiritual elements from
many African tribes, such as the Yorub, were
preserved and made palatable to slave masters
by adopting a facade of Catholic saints. Such
were the roots of modern Candombl and
Macumba, prohibited by law until recently.
Life on the plantations was miserable, but
an even worse fate awaited many slaves. In
the 1690s gold was discovered in present day
Minas Gerais, and soon the rush was on. Wild
boomtowns like Vila Rica de Ouro Prto (Rich
Town of Black Gold) sprang up in the mountain valleys. Immigrants flooded the territory,
and countless slaves were brought from Africa
to dig and die in Minas.
The Portuguese
30S
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
40W
BRAZIL
BR
020
BR
BR
135
BRAZIL
270 B R A Z I L H i s t o r y
The Brazilians
During the 19th century coffee replaced sugar
as Brazils primary export, at one time supplying three-quarters of world demand. With
mechanization and the building of Brazils
first railroads, profits soared and the coffee
barons gained enormous influence.
In 1889 a coffee-backed military coup toppled the antiquated empire, sending the emperor into exile. The new Brazilian Republic
adopted a constitution modeled on the USAs,
and for nearly 40 years Brazil was governed
by a series of military and civilian presidents
through which the armed forces effectively
ruled the country.
One of the first challenges to the new republic came from a small religious community in the northeast. An itinerant holy man
named Antnio Conselheiro had wandered
for years through poverty-stricken backlands,
prophesying the appearance of the Antichrist
and the end of the world. He railed against
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Recent Events
November 1989 saw the first presidential election by popular vote in nearly 30 years. Voters
elected Fernando Collor de Mello over the
socialist Luz da Silva (Lula). Collor promised to fight corruption and reduce inflation,
B R A Z I L T h e C u l t u re 271
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THE CULTURE
Lifestyle
Although Brazil has the worlds eighth-largest
economy, with abundant resources and developed infrastructure, the living standard varies
wildly. Brazil has one of the worlds widest
income gaps between rich and poor.
Since the mass urban migration in the
mid-19th century, the poorest have lived in
favelas that surround every city. Many dwellings consist of little more than a few boards
pounded together, and access to clean water,
BRAZIL
272 B R A Z I L S p o r t s
BRAZIL
Population
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RELIGION
SPORTS
ARTS
Brazilian culture has been shaped by the Portuguese, who gave the country its language
and religion, and also by the indigenous population, immigrants and Africans.
B R A Z I L A r t s 273
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Architecture
Brazils most impressive colonial architecture
dazzles visitors in cities like Salvador, Olinda,
So Lus, Ouro Prto, Diamantina and Tiradentes. Over the centuries, the names of two
architects stand out: Aleijadinho, the genius of
18th-century baroque in Minas Gerais mining towns (he was also a master sculptor; see
p313) and Oscar Niemeyer, the 20th-century
modernist-functionalist who was chief architect for the new capital, Braslia, in the 1950s
and designed many other striking buildings
around the country.
Visual Arts
Cinema
Brazils large film industry has produced a
number of good films over the years. One of
the most recent hits is the 2005 Dois Filhos do
Francisco (The Two Sons of Francisco), based
on the true story of two brothers who rise
from poverty to become successful country
musicians.
For a trip back to 1930s Rio, check out
Madame Sat (2002). Rios gritty red-light
district at the time is the setting for the true
story of Madame Sat (aka Joo Francisco dos
Santos), the troubled but good-hearted transvestite, singer, capoeira master and symbol of
Lapas midcentury bohemianism.
One of Brazils top directors, Fernando
Meirelles, earned his credibility with Cidade
de Deus (City of God), which showed the
brutality of a Rio favela. Following his success
with Cidade de Deus, Meirelles went Hollywood with Constant Gardener (2004), an
intriguing conspiracy film shot in Africa.
Literature
Joaquim Maria Machado de Assis (1839
1908), the son of a freed slave, is one of Brazils
early great writers. Assis had a great sense of
humor and an insightful though cynical
take on human affairs. His major novels were
Quincas Borba, The Posthumous Memoirs of
Bras Cubas and Dom Casmurro.
Jorge Amado (19122001), Brazils most
celebrated contemporary writer, wrote brilliantly clever portraits of the people and places
of Bahia, notably Gabriela, Clove and Cinnamon and Dona Flor and her Two Husbands.
Paulo Coelho is Latin Americas secondmost-read novelist (after Gabriel Garca Mrquez). His new-age fables The Alchemist and
The Pilgrimage launched his career in the
mid-1990s.
Chico Buarque, better known for songwriting, has written several books. Budapest, his
BRAZIL
Eu, Tu, Eles (Me, You, Them, 2000), Andrucha Waddingtons social comedy about
a Northeasterner with three husbands, has
beautiful cinematography and a score by Gilberto Gil.
Walter Salles, one of Brazils best-known
directors, won much acclaim (and an Oscar)
for Central do Brasil (Central Station; 1998),
the story of a lonely woman accompanying a
young homeless boy in search of his father.
Salles latest foray is his bio-epic Diarios de
Motocicleta (The Motorcycle Diaries, 2004),
portraying the historic journey of Che Guevara
and Alberto Granada across South America.
For a taste of the dictatorship days see
Bruno Barretos O Que Isso Companheiro
(released as Four Days in September in the US,
1998), based on the 1969 kidnapping of the US
ambassador to Brazil by leftist guerrillas.
Another milestone in Brazilian cinema is
the visceral film Pixote (1981), which shows
life through the eyes of a street kid in Rio.
When it was released, it was a damning indictment of Brazilian society.
Carlos Diegues Bye Bye Brasil (1980)
chronicles the adventures of a theater troupe
as they tour the entire country. It charts the
profound changes in Brazilian society of the
second half of the 20th century.
One of the old classics is Orfeu Negro (Black
Orpheus), Marcel Camus 1959 film. Set during Carnaval, it opened the worlds ears to
bossa nova by way of the Jobim and Bonf
soundtrack.
274 B R A Z I L E n v i r o n m e n t
BRAZIL
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ENVIRONMENT
The Land
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Wildlife
National Parks
Over 350 areas are protected as national parks,
state parks or extractive reserves. Good parks
for observing fauna, flora and/or dramatic
landscapes:
Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina (p347) Rivers, waterfalls, caves and swimming holes make for excellent
trekking in this mountainous region in the northeast.
Parque Nacional da Chapada dos Guimares (p336)
On a rocky plateau northeast of Cuiab, this canyon park
features breathtaking views and impressive rock formations.
Parque Nacional da Chapada dos Veadeiros (p332)
200km north of Braslia, among waterfalls and natural
swimming holes, this hilly national park features an array
of rare flora and fauna.
Parque Nacional da Serra dos rgos (p298)
Set in the mountainous terrain in the southeast, this park
is a mecca for rock climbers and mountaineers.
Parque Nacional de Aparados da Serra (p323)
Famous for its narrow canyon with 700m escarpments, this
park in the southeast features hiking trails with excellent
overlooks.
Parque Nacional dos Lenis Maranhenses (p377)
Spectacular beaches, mangroves, dunes and lagoons
comprise the landscape of this park in the northeast.
Environmental Issues
Sadly, Brazil is as renowned for its forests as
it is for destroying them. At last count more
than one-fifth of the Brazilian Amazon rainforest had been completely destroyed. All its
major ecosystems are threatened and more
than 70 mammals are endangered.
Although deforestation has slowed in recent years, the forest is still on a fast track
to oblivion (only 9000 sq km of forest was
chopped down in 2005 compared to 18,000
sq km the year before). In 2005, the Amazon
also suffered its worst drought in 100 years.
River levels dropped dramatically, killing off
fish and stranding boats and whole villages.
The drought also caused major forest fires,
destroyed crops and wreaked economic havoc.
BRAZIL
B R A Z I L E n v i r o n m e n t 275
BRAZIL
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TRANSPORTATION
COLOMBIA
ARGENTINA
Air
The busiest international airports are Aeroporto Galeo (formally known as Aeroporto
Internacional Antnio Carlos Jobim) in Rio
de Janeiro (p280) and So Paulos Aeroporto
Guarulhos (p304). Brazils bankrupt main
carrier, Varig (www.varig.com), was still operating at the time of research, though it was
continuing to cancel flights, sometimes with
little advance notice. Varig flies into Brazil
from 11 South American cities. Better deals,
however, are usually found on Gol Airlines
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THE GUIANAS
VENEZUELA
Boat
From Trinidad in Bolivia, boats take about
five days to sail down the Ro Mamor to
Guayaramern (Bolivia), opposite GuajarMirim (Brazil).
From Peru fast passenger boats make the
400km trip along the Rio Amazonas between
Iquitos (Peru) and Tabatinga (Brazil) in eight
to 10 hours. From Tabatinga you can continue
to Manaus and Belm.
Bus
Although there is no border with Chile, direct buses run between Santiago and Brazilian cities, such as Porto Alegre (US$116, 36
hours), Curitiba, So Paulo and Rio de Janeiro
(US$130, 62 hours).
COLOMBIA
ARGENTINA
FRENCH GUIANA
BRAZIL
278 T R A N S P O R TAT I O N G e t t i n g A r o u n d
BRAZIL
PERU
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A host of other airlines serves Brazil, including Fly, Trip, Penta, TAVAJ, Rico and
Meta.
In general, Gol is the cheapest of the airlines, though smaller regional carriers sometimes offer good deals. Airline tickets can be
purchased at any travel agent. Travelers with
American Express cards can also buy Gol
tickets online otherwise youll have to pay
in cash at a travel agency.
Overall Brazilian airlines operate efficiently, but schedules can change and its wise
to reconfirm your flights. Most airlines have
national telephone numbers for reservations
and confirmations:
Fly (%0300-313-1323; www.voefly.com.br)
Gol (%0300-789-2121; www.voegol.com.br)
TAM (%0800-570-5700; www.tam.com.br)
Trip (%0300-789-8747; www.airtrip.com.br)
Varig (%0800-701-2670; www.varig.com.br)
In order to secure a seat, book as far ahead
as possible during busy seasons (Christmas
to Carnaval, Holy Week and Easter, July and
August). At other times, you can buy tickets
for same-day flights, with no added cost.
Embarkation tax on domestic flights ranges
from US$3 at minor airports to US$8 at major
ones. If it isnt already included in the price of
your ticket, you have to pay it in cash (reais
only) at check-in.
URUGUAY
GETTING AROUND
Air
AIR PASSES
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T R A N S P O R TAT I O N G e t t i n g A r o u n d 279
Bus
Hitching
Buses are the backbone of long-distance transportation in Brazil, and are generally reliable and frequent. Unfortunately, bus ticket
prices in Brazil are among the highest in South
America, with comun (economy class) fares
averaging US$4 per hour.
Road quality varies from well-paved roads
in the south to decent highways along the
coast to ravaged, pockmarked terrain in the
northeast interior.
There are three main classes of longdistance buses. The cheapest, comum, is fairly
comfortable with reclining seats and usually a
toilet. The executivo provides roomier seats,
costs about 25% more and makes fewer stops.
The more luxurious Leitos can cost twice
as much as comum and have spacious, fully
reclining seats with pillows, air-conditioning
and sometimes an attendant serving sandwiches and drinks. Overnight buses, regardless of the class, often make fewer stops.
Most cities have one central bus terminal
(rodoviria, pronounced hoe-doe-vee-ahrhee-ya), often located on the outskirts of
town. Usually you can simply show up at the
station and buy a ticket for the next bus out,
but on weekends and holidays (particularly
from December to February) its a good idea
to book ahead.
Hitchhiking in Brazil, with the possible exception of the Pantanal and other areas where
its commonplace among locals, is difficult.
The best way to hitch is to ask drivers when
theyre not in their vehicles for example, by
waiting at a gas station or a truck stop. But
even this can be difficult. The Portuguese for
lift is carona.
Boat
Car
Brazilian roads can be dangerous, especially
busy highways such as the Rio to So Paulo
corridor. There are tens of thousands of
motor-vehicle fatalities every year. Driving
Local Transport
BUS
BRAZIL
280 R I O D E J A N E I R O H i s t o r y
RIO DE JANEIRO
BRAZIL
HISTORY
The city earned its name from early Portuguese explorers, who entered the huge bay
(Baa de Guanabara) in January 1502, and
believing it a river, named it Rio de Janeiro
(January River). The French were actually
the first settlers along the bay, establishing
the colony of Antarctic France in 1555. The
Portuguese, fearing that the French would
take over, gave them the boot in 1567 and
remained from then on. Thanks to sugar plantations and the slave trade their new colony
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ORIENTATION
The city can be divided into two zones: the zona
norte (north zone), consisting of industrial,
working-class neighborhoods, and the zona sul
(south zone), full of middle- and upper-class
neighborhoods and well-known beaches. Centro, Rios business district and the site of its first
settlement, marks the boundary between the
two, and a number of the important museums
and colonial buildings are there.
The parts of Rio you are most likely to
explore stretch along the shore of the Baa
de Guanabara and the Atlantic Ocean. South
from Centro are the neighborhoods of Lapa,
Glria, Catete, Flamengo, Botafogo and Urca
dominated by the peak of Po de Acar
(Sugar Loaf). Further south are Copacabana,
Ipanema and Leblon.
Other areas of interest include the colonial hilltop neighborhood of Santa Teresa
overlooking Centro, and the looming statue
of Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer),
atop Corcovado.
R I O D E J A N E I R O 281
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RIO DE JANEIRO
de nt e
r e si
R io I g
ua c u
a na
S a r a p ui C
ed
Ilha de
Pancaraba
Rodovia Washington
Ri
Ilha de
Brocoi
Baa de Guanabara
Ilha do
Boqueiro
Ilha de
Paquet
Ilha do
Governador
S o J o o d e M er i t
i
Aeroporto Galeo
(Aeroporto Internacional
Antnio Carlos Jobim)
BR
116
2245'S
Duque de Caxias
Campos
Elseos
Ponta
do Saco
Ilha do
Morro
Grande
BR
40
n
Ke n
2245'S
Mag
BR
101
Av
Cordovil
Br
a
Ferry
Av
R i o E st
4315'W
4 km
2 miles
r el a
0
0
So
Gonalo
Ilha do
Engenho
sil
Iraj
Av
rra
Ura
n
ia
da M
i s e ri c o rd
Penha
Bonsucesso
Guanabara
Cosmos
Au t o
m
ve
Inhama
Ponte Pres
C l ub
e
A v S u bur b a
BRAZIL
Ponta do
Catalo
Baa de
Ilha do
Fundo
Ponta de
Santo Antnio
os
Se
Ilha da
Conceino
Costa E Si
lva
BR
101
Caju
na
Mier
So
ry
Cristvo Feira do
Fer
Nordestino
Centro
Niteri
Quinta da
Rodoviria
Aeroporto
Boa Vista
Novo Ro
Sambdromo
Santos
Mangueira Samba School
Maracan
Dumont
Ilha da Boa
Football Stadium
Lapa
Viagem
Glria
Salgueiro
Santa Teresa
Samba School
Tijuca
Catete
Andari
Flamengo
Pico da
Tijuca
Cristo
(1012m)
Po de Aucar
Redentor
Botafogo
(395m)
Corcovado
Urca
Parque
(710m)
Nacional
Humait
See Catete, Flamengo &
Alto Boa Vista
da Tijuca
Botafogo Map (pp2889)
Jardim
Lagoa
Botnico
Leme
Ilha da
Lagoa
Cotunduba
Copacabana
Vista
os
Rodrigo
ss
Chenesa Gvea
Pa
de Freitas
Pedra Bonita
n
(690m)
so
Ipanema
See Ipanema, Leblon Leblon
See Copacabana &
& Gvea Map (p286)
Leme Map (p292)
Av
Co
nd
Bo
nf
im
gua Santa
Ponta de
Armao
c
de Ja
Es t
Anil
a repa g u
Lagoa
da Tijuca
2300'S
A v da s A mr i
c
Barra de Tijuca a s
A v Se rna mbe t ib
a
Av
Itanhang
Jo
pino
Pe
ia do
Pra
Ponta do
Marisco
Ilha das
Palmas
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
4315'W
2300'S
282 R I O D E J A N E I R O I n f o r m a t i o n
DONT MISS...
sunsets on Ipanema
samba clubs in Lapa
the view from Po de Acar
a stroll through Santa Teresa
the funicular ride to Cristo Redentor
football madness at Maracan
Aside from the bus station, Maracan football stadium and the international airport,
most travelers have few reasons to visit the
zona norte.
Quatro Rodas produces an excellent city
map, available at any kiosk. Lonely Planet
also produces a city map, and Riotur, the
citys tourist information center, provides
free street maps.
INFORMATION
Bookstores
BRAZIL
www.lonelyplanet.com
Cultural Centers
Centro Cultural do Banco do Brasil (Map p284; Rua
Primeiro do Maro 66; www.ccbb.com.br; admission free;
hTue-Sun) With exhibition halls, a cinema and performance space, the Centro Cultural has ongoing music and
dance programs.
Emergency
Tourist Police (Map p286; %3399-7170; Av Afrnio
de Melo Franco 119, Leblon; h24hr) If you have the
misfortune to be robbed you can report it to the tourist
police, who can provide you with a police form to give to
your insurance company.
Internet Access
Youth hostels and larger hotels provide internet access, as do the following:
Central Fone Centro (Map p284; basement level, Av Rio
Branco 156); Ipanema (Map p286; loja B, Rua Vincius de
Moraes 129)
Eurogames (Map pp2889; Rua Correia Dutra 39B, Catete)
Tele Rede (Map p284; Av NS de Copacabana 209A,
Copacabana)
Internet Resources
www.ipanema.com This colorful website provides an
excellent introduction to the city.
www.lonelyplanet.com
R I O D E J A N E I R O D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 283
Medical Services
Tourist Information
Money
Be cautious when carrying money in the
city center and take nothing of value to the
beach.
ATMs for most card networks are widely
available. Try Banco do Brasil, Bradesco, Citibank and HSBC when using a debit or credit
card. The international airport has Banco do
Brasil machines on the 3rd floor and currency-exchange booths on the arrivals floor
(h6:30am-11pm).
Banco do Brasil Centro (Map p284; Rua Senador Dantas
105); Copacabana (Map p292; Av Nossa Senhora de
Copacabana 594); International airport (Map p281; Terminal
1, 3rd fl)
Citibank Centro (Map p284; Rua da Assemblia 100);
Ipanema (Map p286; Rua Visconde de Piraj 459A)
HSBC (Map p284; Av Rio Branco 108, Centro)
Copacabana)
Post
Correios (post offices) are prevalent throughout Rio.
Central post office (Map p284; Rua Primeiro de Maro
64, Centro). Mail addressed to Posta-Restante, Rio de
Janeiro, Brazil, ends up here.
Post office Botafogo (Map pp2889; Praia de Botafogo 324);
Copacabana (Map pp2889; Av Nossa Senhora de Copacabana
540); Ipanema (Map p286; Rua Prudente de Morais 147)
Telephone
For international calls try the following:
Central Fone Centro (Map p284; basement level, Av Rio
Branco 156); Ipanema (Map p286; loja B, Rua Vincius de
Moraes 129)
Locutrio (Map pp288-9; Av Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 1171)
Tele Rede (Map pp288-9; Av Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 209)
Travel Agencies
Andes Sol (Map p292; %2275-4370; andessol@uol
.com.br;
Av Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 209) A multilingual
agency that can arrange discounted flights and find budget
lodging in Rio.
BRAZIL
For exchanging cash, casas de cambio (exchange places) cluster behind the Copacabana
Palace Hotel in Copacabana and along Rua
Visconde da Piraj near Praa General Osrio
in Ipanema. In Centro, exchange offices are
on Av Rio Branco, just north of Av Presidente
Vargas.
Casa Aliana (Map p284; Rua Miguel Couto 35C, Centro)
Casa Universal (Map p292; Av NS de Copacabana 371,
284 R I O D E J A N E I R O C e n t r o , L a p a , G l r i a & S a n t a Te re s a
www.lonelyplanet.com
0
0
Baa de
Guanabara
Tef
s do
Av R
Por
To Novo
to
odr
igue
Rio Bus
s Al
Station
ves
Sade
(92km) A
v Ve
nez
uela
P Mau
2 R Coelho e Castro
Largo do Guimares.......... 15 A6
Macuco Rio....................... 16 C6
Museu Chcara do Cu..... 17 A5
Museu Histrico Nacional ..18 C4
Museu Nacional de Belas
Artes..............................19 B4
Pao Imperial.....................20 C3
Saveiros Tours.................(see 16)
C3
B3
A4
A3
SLEEPING
Cama e Caf..................... 21 A6
Hotel Turstico...................22 B6
Rio Hostel..........................23 B5
Ponte Almirante
Arnaldo Luz
RE
Gor dgard
dilh
o
ro
Pier
Mau
Cai
Av
Ba
INFORMATION
Australian Consulate.................. 1 C4
Banco do Brasil...........................2 B4
Bradesco ATM............................3 B4
Casa Aliana...............................4 B3
Central Fone .............................5 B4
Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil
(CCBB)...............................(see 12)
Citibank.....................................6 B3
HSBC (ATM)..............................7 B4
Morro
de So
Bento
EATING
Ateli Odeon ....................24
Bar do Mineiro...................25
Bar Lus..............................26
Dito & Feito.......................27
Ilha
Encontras Fiscal
Cariocas ............28
Espirito Santa ....................29
Nova Capela......................30
Ilha das
Cabras
Mosteiro de
So Bento
Rua
eio
eig
uin
Ag
on
en
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Pr
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id
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v
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el
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Av General Justo
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Av G
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R Ub
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B4
A6
B4
B3
B5
A5
B5
B3
B5
B5
A5
A4
B4
A5
A5
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ica
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Rep
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P Jornal
R Sacadura Cabral
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R Dom Gerardo P Baro
R
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Ld P
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P Major
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a Bola
to
Val
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P dos
ma
F is c
Estivadores R Sen
al
Inha
e
DRINKING
ond
Pompe
R
Visc
u
Ca
R
Confeitaria Colombo..........31
m
ni
er
o
12
in
Ot
P Pio X
o
ilo
Doca do
ENTERTAINMENT
ef
ha
Mercado
RT
o Il
Cabaret Casa Nova............32
ega
ry t eta
ano
nd
Fer Paqu
lori
lf
Carioca da Gema...............33
al F
da A
de
R CENTRO rio
27
rech
Democrticus ....................34
s
as
Ma
y to
4
Ro idor
Av
Varg
Ferr eri
o
te
Rio Scenarium ...................35
Uruguiana
den
R d Ouv
Nit
3
resi
11
o
P Mercado
Av P
Baa de
Rd
Presidente
ro
20 P 15 de Municipal
SHOPPING
P Monte
Guanabara
Vargas
mb
Novembro
Castelo
ete 9
ga
CD and record stalls...........36
S
P Marechal
de
os
31
e7
lfn s Pass
a
ia
ncora
e
La Vereda.......................... 37
aA
o
Rd
bl
rag R M
Jos
Rd
iseric
or d Aires
em So
oB
mLargo de
h
Plano B .............................38
s
6
14
rdia
As
sm
Ca
Sen enos
R
R
R
CASTELO
u
Era
de San Francisco
eB
Av
Largo da
Rd
de Paula
Luis
TRANSPORT
R
Carioca Av Nilo Peanha
18
13
Bondinho to Santa Teresa..39
rioca
io
R da Ca
onstitu P Tiradentes
Santa Casa da
TAM.................................. 40
R da C
R Ma
3
5
l
Misericrdia
so
26
Varig................................. 41
Campo de
co
arro
P Vinte
Bran
Carioca 8irante B
Santana
io
do R
e Dois
Convento
jo
v Alm
nde
a
A
co
Abril
Santo
19
R Ar rto
R Vis
P
Po re
Antnio
ill
Floriano
Aleg
urc h
a
Aeroporto
blic
Ch
2
4
ep
v
Santos
Av Ro Chile
dro
sevelt
zia A
nado
35
d
39
Dumont
o Se
R Pesa
F Roo
Lu
Av
Rd
ta
Catedral
Les
an 1
36 e S
Metropolitana
o
7
R d 10
t our a
Rela
P Senador
Fon
40
R da
de P Itlia
Salgado Filho
24
41
es
RD
P Mahatma
nt e s
os
uda
Av Me
Arc
Ghandi
Est
m de S
os
do
Cinelndia
30
P do
e
Passeio Monroe
end
Rez
Pblico
R Jardel Jercolis
R do
33 28
R Teix
Museu de
eira d P Deodoro
32
Arte Moderna
e Fr
Av
eita
o
Alm
s
uel
R Ria c h
ira
Parque do
34 38
nte
Flamengo
Silv
io
de
5
Murt in
No
Silva
ho
ron
ha
Lapa
r
ylo
Ta
R
23
Enseada
Ftima
17
de Barros
da Glria
P Paris
ia s
29
D
R
To Casa
egildo de
urea
lis 37
R Hermen
Ba
po
(250m)
rro
s
ndes
15
o Me
21
ndid
See Catete, Flamengo & Botafogo Map (pp288-9)
RC
Glria
Marina 16
25
s t a nt
de Glria
Con
j a min
en
R B
Glria
R Bernardino
dos Santos
ro
Ama
22
anto
6
RS
Santa
Teresa
Ld de Nossa
o
Senhora
ric
m
ric o
A
Am
ro
edro
e
ed
ad
R P
RP
ndr e
R Aertenc
P
e
dr
an ie
ex nz
Al ke
R ac
M
BRAZIL
400 m
0.2 miles
B4
B4
B4
R I O D E J A N E I R O S i g h t s 285
www.lonelyplanet.com
SIGHTS
In addition to sand, sky and sea, Rio has dozens of other attractions: historic neighborhoods, colorful museums, colonial churches,
picturesque gardens and some spectacular
overlooks.
Cosme Velho
Atop the 710m-high peak known as Corcovado
(Hunchback), the looming statue of Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer; Map p281) offers similarly
fantastic views over Rio. You can go by taxi,
but the best way to reach the summit is by cog
train (round trip US$12; h8.30am-6.30pm), which leaves
from Rua Cosme Velho 513. To reach the train,
take a taxi or a Rua Cosme Velho bus (180, 184,
583 and 584). Choose a clear day to visit.
Santa Teresa
Centro
Set on a hill overlooking the city, Santa Teresa (Map p284), with its cobbled streets and
aging mansions, retains the charm of days
past. Currently the residence of a new generation of artists and bohemians, Santa Teresa
has colorful restaurants and bars and a lively
weekend scene around Largo do Guimares
and Largo das Neves.
Museu Chcara do Cu (Map p284; Rua Murtinho Nobre
93; admission US$2, Sun free; hnoon-5pm Wed-Mon) is
a delightful art and antiques museum in a
former industrialists mansion with beautiful
gardens and great views.
To reach Santa Teresa, take the bondinho
(streetcar; Map p284; tickets US50) from the station on
Rua Profesor Llio Gama, behind Petrobras.
BRAZIL
Gvea
re
Av Pad na
Fra
Leonel
im
Ja
rd
olome
u Mit
re
l Urq
al
R Gr
uiza
34
P Antero
Quental
Leblon
22
P Mlton
rt
o
Campos
de F
e tte e
nd do
Co a
R ern
os
e Camp
B
berto d
R Hum
28
o Duro
n
Ven
cio F
lores
RG
ral A
RA
pa
ran
N
Av
11
oso
is
rtin
Ma
an
nS
41
Ge
Av
48 36
eir a
Mor reir a
38
o
f im
De l lf im M
A v De
Av
Praia de
Leblon
Hipdromo
da Gvea
rto Card
R Gilbe
R Cupertin
a
47
Pa iv
de
lf o
tau
A
Av
31
32
Largo da
Memrial
sa r
R C a p Ce de
de A ndra
ir
re
er
ico
iro Clube de Regatas
o Ribe
Flamengo
R Mri
P NS
Auxiliadora
Jquei
Clube
R Carlos G
SLEEPING
Che Lagarto.................... 14 D3
Che Lagarto.....................15 E3
Hotel San Marco............. 16 D3
Hotel Vermont ................17 E3
Ipanema Beach House......18 E3
Ipanema Sweet ...............19 F3
Ipanema Wave Hostel......20 E3
Lighthouse Hostel..........(see 20)
Margarida's Pousada ...... 21 D3
F4
B4
C4
E4
uira
R Itiq
45
R M
de
c
Vi
te
en
z
s Va
ben
r Ru
Majo
R
42
P Santos
Dumont
Jardim
Botnico
12
Guilhem
s
u
a rq
js
Av B
org
de Melo Fr
eiros
Parque
Brigadeiro
Faria Lima
39
Parque
Tivoli
To JJ Seabra
(500m)
Jardim
de Alah
R Humberto
de Campos
Med
es de
Av Rodrigo Otvio
B3
C3
D3
F3
E3
F3
F3
E3
C3
da
Co
Ilha dos
Caiaras
C3
F3
E3
E3
D3
F3
B3
E4
F4
Pe
0
0
ss
oa
Ep
it
OCEAN
ATLANTIC
Praia do
Ipanema
49
29
24
Av Vieira Souto
Av Vieira Souto
R Baro de Jaguar 15
ipe
R Nascimento da Silv
a
R Redentor
21
R Baro da Torre
46
18
P Nossa
P
16
Senhora
Espanha R Visconde de Piraj
de Paz
26
50
54
Ipanema 3 52
14 R Pru
25
43
dente de Morais
Av Epitcio Pessoa
de Freitas
cio
B4
B3
F3
B4
F3
B4
E3
B4
C1
E3
B4
B1
E3
F3
40
53
5
8
20
37
13
17
27
800 m
0.5 miles
A2
E3
B3
B4
Garota da Ipanema..........40
Guapo Loco.....................41
Hipdromo ......................
42
Polis Sucos.......................
43
Shenanigan's ...................
44
ENTERTAINMENT
00...................................45
Parque da
Baronneti ........................
46
Catacumba
Esch Caf.........................47
Melt.................................48
Cantaglo
35
33
10
4
19
Praia do
Arpoador
30
R Antnio
Parreiras
7
23 eiro
rn
Ca
es
om inha
R G v Ra eth
A
b
Eliza
44
P Gral
51
Osrio
Morro
do Pavo
Morro do
Cantagalo
(202m)
TRANSPORT
Varig................................54 E3
SHOPPING
Brasil & Cia......................49 E4
Av Henrique
Emprio Brasil..................50 D3
Dodsworth
Hippie Fair........................51 F3
Musicale .........................52 D3
Parque Vincius ..............53 E3
Toca do do
R Alberto de Campos
DRINKING
Armazm do Caf............31
Parque
Tom Jobim
Ateli Culinrio ...............32
33
Bar Bofetada....................
Bar D'Hotel .....................34
Cafena............................35
Caneco 70 ......................36
Casa da Lua ....................37
Devassa ..........................38
Drink Caf.......................39
Av
Lagoa Rodrigo
EATING
Bibi Crepes......................22
23
Casa da Feijoada .............
Chaika.............................24
Delrio Tropical ................25
Fontes.............................26
27
New Natural.....................
Vegetariano Social Club ..28
Zaz Bistro Tropical .........29
Zona Sul Supermarket......30
INFORMATION
Banco do Brasil...................1
Banco do Brasil..................2
Bradesco ATM................... 3
Cardio Trauma Ipanema.....4
Central Fone......................5
Citibank.............................6
Hospital Ipanema ..............7
8
Livraria Letras & Expresses..
Tourist Police..................... 9
R Gra
edeir
os
s de
M
Av B
orge
Bo
t
rt
Av Ba
D
a
esso
io P
itc
na
R Anibal de Medo
pe
Av E
p
B
Av
R Joo
R Paul Redfern
itre
e
a lb
Ad
Dumont
eu M
R
del
R Fadel Fareir a
r
rai
R Almirante
R Vincius de Morae
rA
rtu
Av Afrnio
R Henrique
Ep
lom
arto
R Maria Quitria
oa
R Farme de Amoed
286 R I O D E J A N E I R O I p a n e m a , Le b l o n & G v e a
ie m e y e
R Joana Anglica
Av
ss
R Garcia D'vila
it
cio
Pe
Teixeira de Melo
BRAZIL
www.lonelyplanet.com
anco
R Jos Li
nhares
Lira
rtiga
R I O D E J A N E I R O A c t i v i t i e s 287
www.lonelyplanet.com
art from the 17th to the 20th century, including Brazilian classics like Cndido Portinaris
Caf.
ACTIVITIES
Rios lush mountains and glimmering coastline just cry out for attention, and there are
hundreds of ways to experience their magic
on a sun-drenched afternoon.
Climbing
Animus Kon-Tikis (%2295-0086; www.animuskontikis
.com.br; rock climbs/hikes US$55/23) offers highly rewarding climbs up the face of Po de Acar.
Hang-Gliding
The fantastic hang glide off 510m Pedra Bonita, one of the giant granite slabs towering over
the city, is a highlight of any trip to Brazil.
Many pilots offer tandem flights (from around
US$80 including transportation), but reputable picks include Just Fly (%2268-0565; www
.justfly.com.br), SuperFly (%3322-2286) and Tandem
Fly (%2422-6371; www.riotandemfly.com.br).
Bay Cruises
Macuco Rio (Map p284; %2205-0390; www.macucorio
.com.br in Portuguese; Marina da Glria; boat tours US$3545) offers two daily tours (at 10am and 2pm)
large schooners.
Dance Classes
Centro Cultural Carioca (Map p284; %2252-6468; www
.centroculturalcarioca.com.br in Portuguese; Rua Sete de Setembro, Centro; h11am-8pm Mon-Fri) offers one-hour
classes in samba and ballroom, which meet
twice a week (US$40 to US$60 for six-week
course).
BRAZIL
288 R I O D E J A N E I R O C a t e t e , F l a m e n g o & B o t a f o g o
www.lonelyplanet.com
D
co
ri
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18
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16
Parque
Gunle
Largo do
Machado
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sv
Av
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Praia do
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sl
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no
Universidade
Federal de
Rio de Janeiro
R
M Laur
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ro
Po
lido
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R Gr
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RG
to
ar
RB
a
Av L
ait
do
um
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Pasmado
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la
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lv
ern
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R Pa
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RH
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R 19 F
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Bat
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RG
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Botafogo
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Guimares
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P Radial
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To Corcovado
M
Dona
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Est M
R Bambi
R Assun
us Olin
nad
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d
al
Mirante
Dona Marta
(363m)
R Se
i
mb
It a
r
Ba
do
rte
urr
Ld do
Asc
R Juana
Morro
Mundo Novo
(128m)
Av
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n
22
Estao da Estrada
de Ferro Corcovado
RC
ar
R Gral Glicrio
e Ve lho
R Paulo
os
Flamengo
R Co s
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BRAZIL
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RP
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P David
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ng
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lice
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V
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RA
R Baro do
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Comprido
Largo do
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iras
ranje
s La
R da
10
R Machad
Assis
Abra
a
Silv
rt
rfu
da
Morro So
Judas Tadeu
(246m)
Tr
a
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R
6
M Bua
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d
R 2 de es
Dezemb
ro
Ber
eiro
ara
rb
turo
or V
ergu
R Ar
Cate
te
Morro da
Nova Cintra
(267m)
a
nt
Tr
a
ins
R Silveira Mart
11
Catete
13
17
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T
R I O D E J A N E I R O C a t e t e , F l a m e n g o & B o t a f o g o 289
www.lonelyplanet.com
0
0
Parque
do Catete
Henr
ique
Catete
Praia do
Flamengo
Dom
ngo
H
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Centro Cultural Telemar .............. 10
Museu da Repblica.....................11
Museu do ndio............................12
Museu Folclrico Edson Carneiro..13
F5
E1
D2
D1
EATING
Estao Repblica ........................18 D1
19
Porco Rio's.................................. E3
Av In
f
DRINKING
Cobal Market...............................20 A6
ENTERTAINMENT
Casa da Matriz.............................21 B6
Clan Caf.....................................22 A3
Parque
do
Flamengo
D2
D1
B5
D1
SLEEPING
Carioca Easy Hostel......................14
15
Hotel Ingls...................................
Hotel Monterrey.......................... 16
Hotel Riazor.................................17
ante
Praia do Flame
G
INFORMATION
Argentinian Embassy..................... 1 D4
2
Bolivian Consulate.......................... E4
3
Chilean Consulate........................... E3
Columbian Consulate.....................4 E2
Dutch Consulate............................5 C4
Eurogames.....................................6 D1
HSBC.............................................7 A6
Paraguayan Consulate.................(see 5)
8
Peruvian Consulate......................... E3
Post Office.....................................9 C4
Riotur.........................................(see 23)
UK Consulate...............................(see 4)
Uraguayan Consulate...................(see 5)
Venezuelan Consulate.................(see 5)
15
1 km
0.5 miles
TRANSPORT
Buses to Centro & Zona Sul..........23 F6
3
19
Baa de Guanabara
i
Ru
ue
He
nr
iq
Morro
Cara de Co
(72m)
Fortaleza
de So Joo
nt
e
os
Do
m
rb
Ba
BRAZIL
Morro
da Viva
a
Inf
s
lve
ti
ba
s
Urca
no
Av
S
Se
RC
n
d
Av
Praia
de Fora
ia
Enseada de Botafogo
r
Flo
ido
da
me
Ga
ff
Jo
o
A la
re
Lu
is
Av
ast
Av
ga
tu
r
Po
Po de Acar
(395m)
Morro
da Urca
(215m)
23
Praia
Vermelha
Cable-Car
Station
Co
P Gral
Tibrcio
Cl a
ha
T r il
ud
ut inh
eu
l
ha
io
Av
P
ec
o
anc
n Fr
amo
RR
srio
R O eida
Alm
P Euzebio
Oliveira
ar
M
ria
t u
a n 14
C
( Wa l k i ng P a
t h)
Praia
Vermelha
6
Morro da
Babilnia
(235m)
290 R I O D E J A N E I R O W a l k i n g T o u r
www.lonelyplanet.com
WALK FACTS
Start Praa Floriano
Finish Niteri
Distance 3.5km
Duration three hours
Av
a
Varg
Uruguiana
13
io
Av R
10
300 m
0.2 miles
Ca rioc a
R da
5
Ve
ig
zia
ris
to
da
ta
P
Floriano
CINELNDIA
de
n
Sa
R
Cinelndia
Lu
s
arlo
uai
arag
4
3
Bondinho to
Santa Teresa
io C
lica
b
ep
Av R hile
do C
n
Ant
do P
de
13 io
Av Ma
lica
pb
Carioca
ente
Av Nilo Peanha
Largo da
Carioca
so
arro
te B
iran
Alm
Av
esid
e
Av R
ranc
io B
do R
CASTELO
Av General Justo
Ev
a
io
onstitu
R da C
12
bro
tem
Se
ia
e7
bl
R d ssem
RA
r
Av P
ica
bl
0
0
co
Rep
Bran
da
cond
R Vis
iter
to N
11
CENTRO
nte
ide
Pres
y
Ferr
Presidente
Vargas
Baa de
Guanabara
eiro
rim o io
R P Mar rc
de Com
de
Tv
P Pio X
a
deg
lfn
da A
BRAZIL
WALKING TOUR
Although lacking the sensual charms of the
beaches in the zona sul, central Rios rich
history makes for some fascinating exploring. The heart of Rio today is Praa Floriano
in Cinelndia. At lunchtime and after work,
samba music and political debate fills the air
as cariocas gather in the open-air cafs here.
Just north looms the Teatro Municipal (1), which
hosts Rios best dance and theater. Its modeled on the Paris Opera.
From Praa Floriano leave its northwest
corner and walk along pedestrian-only Av
13 de Maio. Cross Av Almirante Borroso and
youre in the Largo da Carioca. Up on the
hill is the restored Convento de Santo Antnio
(2), whose eponymous statue is an object of
great devotion to many cariocas in search of
a husband.
From the convent, youll notice the Petrobras
(3) building (rather like the old Rubiks cube)
and the ultramodern Catedral Metropolitana (4).
Nearby you can take the bondinho (US50) up
to Santa Teresa (p285).
Not far from the cathedral, youll find old
shops along 19th-century Rua da Carioca.
Stop at Bar Lus (5; p294), a Rio institution with
Aeroporto
Santos
Dumont
SLEEPING
Dozens of hostels have opened in recent years,
making Rio an increasingly popular backpacker destination.
BRAZIL
R I O D E J A N E I R O S l e e p i n g 291
292 R I O D E J A N E I R O S l e e p i n g
on a tranquil street, this unsigned hostel gathers its share of budget travelers with some of
Copacabanas cheapest beds. Simple furnished
apartments available.
Rio Backpackers (Map p292; %2236-3803; www.rio
Lad
RS
D
LEME
iro
ibe
R
ata
pai
22
am
oS
eir
aC
Fig
anha
de Sald
31
9
27
A v A t l nt
ic
Av Nossa Sen
hora
R Rau
sa
R Aires
de C
opa
cab
an
RB
ira
Ferre
29
Praia de
Copacabana
R Jlio de
Castilhos
o S
ncisc
u
R Soa
Lim
R
Fer Dom
reir ing
a os
iro
ara
ta
Rib
e
R P
om
pe u
Lou
r
e ir
o
R
5d
eJ
ulh
ldi
24
R S
Ponta do Leme
ire
ue
ba
ari
lar
aC
aG
nt
nit
Sa
RA
R Mig
Lemo uel
s
P A
Julio de
Noronha
Morro do
(Leme 114m)
av
ust
11 R G
ica
r
Cardeal
nt
Ba
Atl
Arcoverde
R
26
Av
P Cardeal
am
R Dcio
P do
6
po
Arcoverde
12 Lido
Vilares
ro
s
1
ele
32
Praia do Leme
20
34
on
5
T
R Maestro
Siqueira
14
25
P Edmundo Campos R
Francisco
Bittencourt
Braga
7
R Duvivier
10
13
R Rodolfo
2
P Serzedelo a
Dantas
Tnel
tic
Correa
Major
ln
33
Av Nossa Senhora
At
Vaz
Av
COPACABANA
de Copacabana
R
21
Co Ra
rre imu 17
16
2
R D ia n
do
8
ias
30
da
RC
Ro
23 4
on
ch
sta
a
nte
Ra
19
mo
s
R Ba
ro d
e Ipa
ATLANTIC
nem
a
R Bolvar
R Xav
OCEAN
da Silvier
eira 3
iqu
15
Morro
do Urubu
ru
Pe
do
lica
b
ep
s
RR
ita
Fre
la
au
os
RP
io
mp
ilr eia
Ca
es
R H uv
ra
alh
Go uei
ag
de Siq
M
R
de
do
BRAZIL
R Be
do L
eme
eira
Morro de
So Joo
(240m)
rto
obe s
R R Lope
bel
Isa
Dias
sa
nce
Pri
ior
Av
Jn
do
Pra
Av
o
Rox
lford Ronaldalho
R Carv
de
Cemitrio
So Joo
Batista
800 m
0.5 miles
Pomp
R Fra
28
ia
Ponta de
P Coronel
Copacabana
inha
Eugnio
Av Ra eth
Franco
Elizab
18
uim
Joaqco
viano
R bu
Ota ARPOADOR
isco
Na
Franc Parque
4 R
Garota de
P do Ipanema Praia de Diabo
Arpoador
Ponta do Arpoador
INFORMATION
Andes Sol...........................1
2
Banco do Brasil...................
Bradesco ATM...................3
Bradesco ATM...................4
5
Bradesco ATM....................
Canadian Consulate...........6
Casa Universal...................7
Citibank ATM.................... 8
Locutrio ..........................9
Post Office.......................10
Riotur...............................11
Tele Rede.........................12
C1
B2
A3
A2
B1
C1
B2
A2
A3
B2
C1
C1
SLEEPING
Che Lagarto....................13
14
Copacabana Praia Hotel...
Hotel Santa Clara.............15
Hotel Toledo ...................16
Pousada Girassol..............17
Residencial Apartt ...........18
Rio Backpackers...............19
A2
B1
A1
B2
A2
A4
A2
EATING
Amir................................ 20
Bakers .............................21
Cervantes........................22
Churrascaria Monchique ..23
Kilograma .......................24
Quick Galetos..................25
Temperarte......................26
Yonza ............................. 27
C1
A2
C1
A2
A3
C1
C1
A3
DRINKING
Le Boy............................. 28 A4
Sindicato do Chopp.........29 A3
Sindicato do Chopp.........30 B2
ENTERTAINMENT
Allegro Bistro Musical ...(see 33)
Bip Bip ............................31 A3
Fosfobox..........................32 A1
SHOPPING
Modern Sound................ 33 A2
TRANSPORT
Varig................................34 B1
R I O D E J A N E I R O E a t i n g 293
hotel, this charmless place has basic onebedroom apartments with small kitchen units,
a gloomy lounge room and a bedroom with
better natural lighting.
Santa Teresa
The colonial facade of the Riazor hides battered quarters. The equation here is simple:
bed, bathroom, TV, and door by which to
exit and explore the city.
Hotel Turstico (Map p284; %2557-7698; Ladeira
da Glria 30; s/d US$25/30) On a quiet street up
from Glria metro station, the Turstico offers spartan accommodations. Rooms range
from cheery to grim.
Other Catete cheapies:
Hotel Monterrey (Map pp288-9; %2265-9899; Rua
Arturo Bernardes 39, Catete; s/d US$24/32)
EATING
Rio has a wealth of dining options, though
not always at low prices. The best places for
cheap dining are self-serve lunch buffets and
juice bars, which youll find all over the city.
For fancier fare, Leblon has the best options,
particularly along restaurant-packed Rua Dias
Ferreira. Other possibilities are the open-air
restaurants on the eastern and western edge
of the lake (Lagoa) and along Rua Joaquim
Murtinho in Santa Teresa.
BRAZIL
BRAZIL
294 R I O D E J A N E I R O D r i n k i n g
Centro
Dito & Feito (Map p284; Rua do Mercado 19; meals US$712; hlunch Mon-Fri) In an atmospheric 19thcentury mansion, this place serves a popular
weekday lunch buffet.
Ateli Odeon (Map p284; Praa Floriano; mains US$8-12;
hclosed Sat & Sun) One of several lively Brazilian restaurants with open-air seating on the
Praa Floriano.
Bar Lus (Map p284; Rua da Carioca 39; mains US$9-15;
hclosed Sun) A Rio institution since 1887, Bar
Lus serves filling portions of German food
and Rios best dark beer.
www.lonelyplanet.com
restaurant.
Porco Rios (Map pp288-9; Av Infante Dom HenriqueAterro; all-you-can-eat US$28) Inside Parque do Flamengo, this is one of Rios best all-you-can-eat
churrascarias with delectable grilled meats
and views of Po de Acar.
DRINKING
Few cities can rival the dynamism of Rios
nightlife. Samba clubs, jazz bars, open-air
cafs, lounges and night clubs are just one
part of the scene, while the boteco is practically
a carioca institution. If you can read a bit of
Portuguese, there are many good sources of
information: Veja Rio insert in Veja magazine,
Thursday and Friday editions of O Globo and
Jornal do Brasil and the Rio Festa website
(www.riofesta.com.br).
www.lonelyplanet.com
R I O D E J A N E I R O E n t e r t a i n m e n t 295
BAR-HOPPING 101
When it comes to bars, nearly every neighborhood in Rio has its drinking clusters. While Ipanema
has scattered options, Leblon has many choices along the western end of Av General San Martin.
Near Lagoa, a youthful population fills the bars around JJ Seabra, and theres almost always a fun
crowd packing the bars facing Praa Santos Dumont. The lakeside kiosks (in Parque Brigadeiro
Faria Lima) are a favorite date place, with live music in the open air. Copacabanas Av Atlntica
packs many sidewalk bars and restaurants, but the strip gets seedy after dark. Botafogo has
authentic carioca bars, particularly around Rua Visconde de Caravelas and in the Cobal market.
In Centro the atmospheric Travessa do Comrcio is recommended for weekday evening drinks.
Lapas liveliest street is Av Mem de S, which is lined with samba clubs. In Santa Teresa youll
find colorful bars around Largo do Guimares and Largo das Neves.
Bars
Live Music
BRAZIL
ENTERTAINMENT
296 R I O D E J A N E I R O S h o p p i n g
www.lonelyplanet.com
BRAZIL
Nightclubs
Sports
Maracan (Map p281; Rua Professor Eurico Rabelo e Av Maracan) Rios enormous shrine to football hosts
some of the worlds most exciting matches,
with fan behavior no less colorful. Games take
place year-round and can happen any day of
the week. Rios big clubs are Flamengo, Fluminense, Vasco da Gama and Botafogo.
To get to the stadium take the metro to
Maracan station then walk along Av Osvaldo
Aranha. The safest seats are on the lower level
cadeira, where the overhead covering protects
you from descending objects like dead chickens and urine-filled bottles (no joke!). The
ticket price is US$7 for most games.
Samba Schools
In September, the big Carnaval schools open
their rehearsals to the public. These are lively
but informal affairs where you can dance,
drink and join the party. The schools are in
dodgy neighborhoods, so its best not to go
alone. Most hostels organize outings if you
want to hook up with a group. Check with
Riotur for schedules and locations. The best
ones for tourists:
Mangueira (%2567-4637; Rua Visconde de Niteri 1072,
Mangueira; hclasses 7pm Sat)
Salgueiro (%2238-5564; Rua Silva Teles 104, Andara;
hclasses 10pm Sat)
SHOPPING
Markets
Music
On weekdays along Rua Pedro Lessa (Map
p284) venders sell CDs and records, which
range from American indie rock to Brazilian
funk.
Modern Sound (Map p292; www.modernsound.com.br;
Rua Barata Ribeiro 502D) Rios biggest music store.
T H E S O U T H E A S T 297
www.lonelyplanet.com
Bus
Buses leave from the Rodoviria Novo Rio (Map
p281; %2291-5151; Av Francisco Bicalho) about 2km
northwest of Centro. Several buses depart daily
to most major destinations, but its a good idea
to buy tickets in advance. Excellent buses leave
Novo Rio every 15 minutes or so for So Paulo
(US$15, six hours). Approximate traveling
times and fares to sample destinations:
Destination
Asuncin (Paraguay)
Belm
Belo Horizonte
Buenos Aires (Argentina)
Florianpolis
Foz do Iguau
Ouro Prto
Paraty
Petrpolis
Porto Alegre
Porto Velho
Recife
Salvador
Santiago (Chile)
Duration (hr)
Cost (US$)
30
52
7
46
18
22
7
4
1
26
54
42
26
60
85
140
20
138
78
50
22
18
6
90
138
90
74
160
Bus
Metro
Rios two-line subway system is an excellent
way to get around some parts of the city. Its
open daily from 6am to 11pm (US$1).
Taxi
Rios taxis are useful late at night and when
youre carrying valuables. The flat rate is
US$2, plus around US75 per kilometer
slightly more at night and on Sundays. Radiotaxis (%2260-2022) is 30% more expensive than
others, but safer.
THE SOUTHEAST
Although most visitors have a hard time tearing themselves away from Rios many charms,
some spectacular destinations are less than
a days travel from the cidade maravilhosa.
Gorgeous beaches lie all along the coast, with
the Costa Verde (Green Coast, south of Rio)
boasting the rainforest-covered island of Ilha
Grande and the elegant colonial town of
Paraty. In the opposite direction, along the
Costa do Sol (Sun Coast) youll find the laidback surfing town of Saquarema, the more
upscale beaches and nightlife of Bzios and
the white sands of Arraial do Cabo.
Those whove had enough of pretty tropical beaches (as if!), should head to the hills.
The picture-perfect town of Petrpolis and
the nearby peaks of Serra dos rgos are
just a short bus ride from Rio, while Minas
Gerais, further north, offers grand visions of
Brazils colonial era in towns like Ouro Prto,
Tiradentes and Diamantina.
Rio-lovers aside, South Americas cultural
capital is in fact So Paulo, where youll find
the best assortment of museums, nightclubs
and restaurants the latter owing much to the
citys incredibly diverse population.
BRAZIL
GETTING AROUND
298 T H E S O U T H E A S T G e t t i n g T h e re & A r o u n d
PETRPOLIS
BRAZIL
Information
The Parque Nacional da Serra dos rgos
visitor center is not far up from the parks
entrance.
Tourist office (%2742-3352; Praa Olmpica; h8am-
T H E S O U T H E A S T S a q u a re m a 299
THE SOUTHEAST
0
0
50W
45W
ra
P ara
Barragem de
Emborcao
na b a
Patos de
Minas
Uberlndia
Tiet
Presidente
Prudente
BR
Araraquara
San Carlos
Campinas
Ri
25S
BR
153
SO PAULO
Rio Iguau
153
Vila Velha
Guarapari
Cachoeiro
de Itapemirim
BR
040
Barbacena
BR
Tiradentes
116
Juiz de
Fora
Rio
Volta
Redonda
BR
101
de
Janeiro
Campos dos
Goitacazes
Terespolis
Bzios
Arraial do Cabo
Saquarema
Petrpolis
101
Angra
dos Reis
RIO DE
JANEIRO
Mangaratiba
Ilha
Grande
Ilha de
Cabo Frio
Tropic of Capricorn
BR
116
25S
Paranagu
CURTIBA
BR
BR
Boiucanga
Santos
VITRIA
Ponta
Grossa
BR
373
262
476
BR
Paran
20S
BR
BR
376
Guarapuava
Resende
Barra Mansa
Paraty
So Vicente
369
BR
So Jos
dos Campos
Sorocaba
Londrina
BR
P i q ui r i
rr
Limeira
Itapetininga
277
BR
381
Conceio
da Barra
Do
ce Linhares
Colatina
BR
So Joo
del Rei
So Tom
das Letras
So
Paulo
Sabar
Ribeiro
Preto
Represa
Armando
Layoner
376
BELO
HORIZONTE
BR
Itanas
Ipatinga
Divinpolis
Bauru
Marlia
R i o P a r a na p a n
em
Governador
Valadares
476
BRAZIL
Rio
Pa
ran
Araatuba
Esprito
Santo
BR
116
Franca
So Jos do
Rio Preto
BR
Diamantina
262
de
Rio
BR
365
Represa
Trs
Marias
Uberaba
Rio Gran
15S
101
Tefilo
Otoni
Ri
Mato
Grosso
20S d o S u l
Maring
So F r
a
BR
Se
364
o
Ri
Montes
Claros
040
BR
BR
s co
R io
BR
050
BR
153
i
nc
116
Vitria da
Conquista
BR
060
122
ad
oE
ag
R io
Minas
Gerais
d e C o nt a
Bahia
BR
rr
Se
BRASLIA
GOINIA
ad
p
Ca
sp
inh
a
o
ua
i
020
Distrito
Federal
Anpolis
BR
Gois
R io
iva
153
Ar
15S
40W
BR
Mato
Grosso
250 km
150 miles
BR
ATLANTIC
Ilha do Mel
101
OCEAN
Joinville
50W
45W
40W
SAQUAREMA
%0xx22 / pop 46,000
300 T H E S O U T H E A S T A r r a i a l D o C a b o
Information
Lakes Shopping, a tiny little mall located on
the road to Praia Itana, has an ATM and
several eateries.
Banco do Brasil (Av Saquarema 539) Offers cash
advances on credit cards.
BRAZIL
ARRAIAL DO CABO
%0xx22 / pop 35,000
T H E S O U T H E A S T B z i o s 301
BZIOS
A fabled destination among well-to-do cariocas, Bzios is one of Brazils best-known beach
resorts. Anchored on a peninsula and ringed by
17 pretty beaches, Bzios has striking natural
scenery and a mix of eye-catching bars, restaurants and boutiques, along with the beautiful
people that frequent them. Lying some 150km
east of Rio, Bzios was a simple fishing village
until the early 1960s, when it was discovered
by Brigitte Bardot, sealing its fate as Brazils
St Tropez. While plenty of Brazilians love this
place, there are many who wouldnt set foot
here. During the summer prices are high and
crowds are abundant. At other times, Bzios
retains some of its old-fashioned appeal.
Sleeping
Budget lodging is scarce in Bzios, particularly during the summer.
Country Camping Club (%2629-1122; www.buzios
camping.com.br; Rua Maria Joaquina 895; per person US$9;
s) Located in Praia Rosa, this campground
walk from Praia da Tartaruga, this youth hostel faces a busy road and the dorms are tight,
but its otherwise a good choice.
Pousada Mandala (%2623-4013; Rua Manoel de Carvalho 223; s/d from US$30/45; a) Passing through
the lush garden courtyard, youll find another
good-value pousada with small but nicely
decorated en suite rooms, some with tiny
balconies.
Portal das Palmeiras (%2623-2677; Rua Csar Augusto So Luiz 11; d from US$35) This friendly pousada
is a good value for its tidy, colorful en suite
rooms. Its 50m from Rua das Pedras.
Zen-do (%2623-1542; Rua Joo Fernandes 60; s/d from
US$42/47) This charming guesthouse in Ossos
lets just three rooms (book early) in a peaceful
setting. Handsome garden in back.
BRAZIL
302 T H E S O U T H E A S T I l h a G r a n d e
BRAZIL
Getting Around
Queen Lory (% 2623-1179; www.queenlory.com.br;
Orla Bardot 710) makes daily trips by schooner
out to Ilha Feia, and to Tartaruga and Joo
Fernandinho beaches (from US$20 for two
hours). You can rent bicycles and buggies at
Bzios Dacar (%2623-4018; Rua Manoel de Carvalho 248;
bike/buggy per 24hr US$12/60).
ILHA GRANDE
%0xx24 / pop 3600
T H E S O U T H E A S T Pa r a t y 303
PARATY
%0xx24 / pop 33,000
Information
Atrium (Rua da Lapa s/n) Changes cash and travelers
checks.
BEACHES
Paratys biggest draw is its astounding assortment of 65 islands and 300 beaches nearby.
The first beach you reach heading a few minutes north of town is Praia do Pontal, the towns
beach. Its sands arent the most enticing, but
the barracas (food stalls) backing it make a
nice pit stop. Another 10 minutes walk further
and on the side of the hill is the small, hidden
Praia do Forte. Praia do Jabaquara, 2km past Praia
do Pontal, is a spacious beach with great views,
a small restaurant and a good campground.
About an hour from Paraty by boat are the Vermelha and Lulas beaches, both to the northeast,
and Saco, to the east. These beaches are small
and idyllic; most have barracas serving beer
and fish and, at most, a handful of beachgoers.
Praia de Parati-Mirim, 27km east of Parati, is hard
to beat for accessibility, cost and beauty, and it
has barracas and houses to rent. You can get
there by municipal bus (US$1, 40 minutes)
from Paraty bus station, with six daily buses.
To visit the less accessible beaches, many
tourists take one of the schooners from the
docks. Tickets cost US$15 per person. The
boats make three beach stops of about 45
minutes each. An alternative is to hire one of
the many small motorboats at the port. For
US$15 per hour, the skipper will take you
where you want to go.
Sleeping
Book ahead if youre coming from December
to February. Once you hit the cobblestones,
prices rise substantially.
Casa do Rio Hostel (%3371-2223; www.paratyhostel
.com; Rua Antnio Vidal 120; dm with/without YHI card
US$12/14) A 10-minute walk from the old town
BRAZIL
304 T H E S O U T H E A S T S o Pa u l o
BRAZIL
heart of the old quarters. Rooms are beautifully decorated with antiques and lots of
wood details, and top-floor windows have
mountain views.
Entertainment
Expect cover charges of US$3 to US$5 at
live-music venues. Young locals avoid the
tourist crush by gathering on the far side of
the historic district, on Rua da Cadeia near
the beach.
Other places to enjoy cocktails and bossa
nova are Caf Paraty (Rua do Comrcio 253) and Margarida Caf (Praa do Chafariz).
SO PAULO
%0xx11 / pop 11 million
Orientation
The key downtown squares are Praa da S,
with the S metr interchange station, and
Praa da Repblica, with Repblica metr
station. In ethnic terms, the Liberdade area,
just south of Praa da S, is the Asian neighborhood. Bela Vista (also called Bixiga), to the
southwest, is Italian. A large Arab community
is based around Rua 25 de Maro, northeast
of Praa da S.
Av Paulista, running southeast to northwest
a kilometer or two southwest of downtown
and accessible by metr, is an avenue of skyscrapers. South of this avenue is Cerqueira
Csar and Jardim Paulista, which harbors
many upscale restaurants and boutiques.
www.lonelyplanet.com
T H E S O U T H E A S T S o Pa u l o 305
Information
EMERGENCY
Crime is a serious issue in So Paulo. Be especially careful in the center at night and on weekends (when fewer people are about). Watch out
for pickpockets on buses and at Praa da S. For
drivers, be aware that car-jackings and red-light
robberies are not uncommon; in fact its legal
to just slow down at red lights late at night. If
theres no traffic, continue without stopping.
MEDICAL SERVICES
MONEY
BRAZIL
306 T H E S O U T H E A S T C e n t r a l S o Pa u l o
www.lonelyplanet.com
CENTRAL SO PAULO
A
R Mau
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a
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Isabel
Budget
Hotel Area
ra
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Vi
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7
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P Almeida
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P da
Avore
R Fa
gund
no
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R So P
Liberdade
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To Praa da rvore
Hostel (10km); Aeroporto
Congonhas (13km)
ampos
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Jac
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Av
R Con
18
P
da S
R da G
r Diogo
R Dr L
To Vila Madalena
Lov.e Lounge (10km);
Vila Olmpia (11km);
Manga Rosa (16km)
R Santo Amaro
olio
R Majo
s
Barbo
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Av L
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(Bixiga)
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(1km)
RA
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a Vis
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Ab
Av
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P Franklin
Roosevelt
P Ragueb
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Parque
Anhangaba
R 15 de
7
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BRAZIL
P Antonio
Prado
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So Bento
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Av S
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T H E S O U T H E A S T S o Pa u l o 307
0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
R da
INFORMATION
Action Cambio.......................(see 23)
Deatur........................................1 B4
Lan House................................. 2 D6
Lig Center .................................3 B3
Post Office.................................4 C3
Tourist Information Center (CIT
OLIDA) .................................5 C3
o Est
Av d
erc
ri
SLEEPING
Hotel Banri ...............................9
Hotel Joamar............................10
Hotel Municipal.......................11
12
Hotel Rivoli ..............................
So Paulo Hostel .....................13
D5
B3
C3
B3
A2
Sleeping
ut o Di
ri
V ia d
o
la r
pu
Po
do
Es t a
A v do
Parque
Dom Pedro II
To Aeroporto So
Paulo/Guarulhos
(25km)
l
ge
Av
n
Ra
rq
Pa
ue
ut
iad
25
Do
de
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dr
Pe
l
ge
An a
Av stan
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Dom Pedro II
Ca
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RH
elen
a
Zerr
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te
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ial Les
Av Rad
EATING
Apfel........................................14
Itiriki .......................................15
Ponto Chic...............................16
Ramen House ......................... 17
Vila Tavola ............................. 18
B3
D5
C3
D6
A6
RG
R Te
lic
ixeir
rio
a Le
ite
DRINKING
19
Bar Brahma .............................. B2
Caf Piu-Piu............................20 A5
o Freir
R Jun
ar
de
ENTERTAINMENT
Afrospot.................................. 21 A5
SHOPPING
Mercado Municipal..................22 E2
Shopping Light........................23 C3
TRANSPORT
Buses to Airports......................24 B3
Terminal Bandeiras.................. 25 C4
BRAZIL
Av
22
ado Rio Ta
Cant
areira
mand
uate
To Museu de
Arte Sacra (3km);
Terminal Tiet
Bus Station
(5km)
308 T H E S O U T H E A S T S o Pa u l o
BRAZIL
Eating
Eating is a much-loved activity in Sampa,
with almost every imaginable type of cuisine
on offer.
Frevo (Rua Oscar Freire 603; mains US$5-12) In restaurant-packed Jardim Paulista, Frevo is an
inexpensive diner serving grilled sandwiches
and simple bites to a largely neighborhood
crowd.
Ponto Chic (Largo do Paissandu 27; mains US$6-10;
hclosed Sun) Several blocks from Praa da
Repblica, informal Ponto Chic serves tasty
sandwiches, including famous bauru, made
with beef and melted cheese on French bread.
Apfel (Rua Dom Jos de Barros 99; plates from US$6;
h11am-3pm Mon-Fri) This pleasant self-serve lunch
place serves vegetarian cuisine at good prices.
Its on a busy pedestrian street in Centro.
Santo Gro (Rua Oscar Freire 413) This stylish
indoor-outdoor caf is a good pit stop for cappuccino, desserts and satisfying bistro fare.
Ramen House (Rua Tomaz Gonzaga 75; noodle soup
US$6) This simple noodle restaurant serves
affordable ramen bowls to its mostly Asian
customers. Other good Japanese restaurants
are along this street.
Vila Tavola (Rua 13 de Maio 848; lunch buffet US$7) One
of many Italian restaurants on this street, Vila
Tavola is a spacious and inviting place with a
filling all-you-can-eat buffet (pastas, polenta,
risotto and the like). Dinner is la carte.
Speranza (Rua 13 de Maio 1004; pizzas from US$9) One
of the best pizzerias in town with plenty of Italian ambience, as youd expect in Bela Vista.
Itiriki (Rua Galvo Bueno 159; per kg US$12; h11am-4pm)
In Liberdade, this popular Asian self-serve restaurant serves a variety of Japanese and Chinese
specialties, with many vegetarian options.
Drinking
Bar Brahma (Av So Joo 677; h11am-midnight) Near
the Praa Repblica, this is the citys oldest
Entertainment
So Paulos relentless clubbing nightlife rivals
the excitement of New Yorks (and costs almost the same, too). For the latest check www
.baladas.com.br, www.obaodba.com.br, www
.guiasp.com.br and guiadasemana.com.br (all
in Portuguese).
The hottest district for clubbing is Vila
Olmpia. Most places open from Thursday
to Saturday nights from midnight onward.
Expect cover charges of US$10 and up.
Vegas Club (www.vegasclub.com.br; Rua Augusta 765;
hTue-Sat) In Consolao, Vegas is the hit club
of the moment, with a fun, eclectic crowd
who come for the nights of house, hip-hop
and baile funk.
Lov.e Lounge (Rua Pequetita 189) This very
popular Vila Olmpia place opens its doors
to straight and gay alike (depending on the
night) for its dance fests.
Manga Rosa (Av Lus Carlos Berrini 1754) A bit farther out in Brooklin Paulista, this is another
favorite nightclub among dance fiends (particularly trance-lovers).
Afrospot (Rua Treize de Maio 48, Bela Vista) For a
smaller, more intimate space, visit this creative DJs favorite in Bela Vista.
Shopping
Shopping Light (Rua Coronel Xavier de Toledo 23, Centro) For a taste of mall culture visit Shopping
Light, with shops and restaurants across from
the Teatro Municipal.
FNAC (www.fnac.com.br; Av Paulista 901) Musiclovers shouldnt skip FNAC, which has an
excellent selection of CDs and books; occasionally, theres a free concert inside.
One kilometer southwest of FNAC is Jardim
Paulista, a neighborhood packed with Sampas
best boutiques. Good streets for wandering
MASP.
wares.
T H E S O U T H E A S T B e l o H o r i z o n t e 309
BELO HORIZONTE
%0xx31 / pop 2.4 million
The third-largest city in Brazil, Belo Horizonte is a rapidly growing industrial giant
with soaring skyscrapers that blot out the
surrounding mountains. Most travelers only
come to the sprawling capital of Minas Gerais
en route to the colonial towns of Ouro Prto
or Diamantina.
Information
So Paulo is the Brazilian hub for many international airlines and thus the first stop for
many travelers. Most major airlines have offices on Av So Lus, near Praa da Repblica.
Before buying a domestic ticket, check which
of the citys airports the flight departs from.
Aeroporto Guarulhos (%6445-2945), the international airport, is 30km east of the center. Flights
to Rio (Santos Dumont airport) depart every
half hour (or less) from Aeroporto Congonhas
(%5090-9000), 14km south of the center.
BUS
The enormous Terminal Tiet bus station (%32350322), with buses to destinations throughout
Brazil, is adjacent to Tiet metr station. International buses from here go to Buenos
Aires (US$125, 36 hours), Santiago do Chile
(US$120, 56 hours) and Asuncin (US$50, 20
hours). Frequent buses go to Rio de Janeiro
(US$22, six hours). Other destinations within
Brazil include Braslia (US$37, 14 hours),
Belo Horizonte (US$21, eight hours), Foz do
Iguau (US$40, 15 hours), Cuiab (US$40, 23
hours), Salvador (US$68, 32 hours), Curitiba
(US$15, six hours) and Florianpolis (US$30,
12 hours). A tip for people coming into the
city: try to pick buses that wont arrive during
early morning or late afternoon traffic jams
are enormous at those times.
Getting Around
Buses are slow, crowded during rush hours
and not too safe. The main transfer points are
Praa da Repblica and the bustling Terminal
Bandeiras. The tourist booths are excellent
sources of bus information.
You can reach many places on the excellent metr, So Paulos subway system. A
combination of metr and walking is the best
way to see the city. The metr is cheap, safe,
Sights
If you have time to spare head for the Parque
Municipal, a sea of green 10 minutes walk
southeast of the bus station along Av Afonso
Pena, and visit the parks Palcio das Artes (Av
Afonso Pena 1537; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 2-10pm Sun), an
art gallery and performing-arts center.
Sleeping
Albergue de Juventude Chal Mineiro (%3467-1576;
BRAZIL
AIR
310 T H E S O U T H E A S T O u r o P r t o
BRAZIL
OURO PRTO
%0xx31 / pop 69,000
www.lonelyplanet.com
Orientation
Ouro Prto is divided into two parishes. Standing looking south in Praa Tiradentes, the central square, facing the Museu da Inconfidncia,
the parish of Pilar is to the right (west), the
parish of Antnio Dias to the left (east).
Information
Unfortunately the town can be a bit seedy at
night, particularly around the bus station.
Anyone lodging near there should absolutely
not walk around after dark.
Its difficult to change travelers checks
in Ouro Prto, but most jewelry stores will
change cash dollars.
Associao de Guias (%3559-3269; Praa Tiradentes
nio
de
ret
a
RB
Pilar
An
19
22
rqu
e
qu
11
R do
23
21
Amaral
18
a
Pil
20
ost
Rib
RC
de
to
Bri
17
iro
lhe
on
se
RC
iano
in til
Qu
ero do Funil
R dos
15
Ve
iga
fidente
s
Incon
av
ier
da
ei
R
hico
R C 12
Barra
R Bernado
Vasconcelos
Largo
nia
R Santa Efig
do Dirceu
6
R Senado
Antnio
r Rocha La
goa
Co
Tv Padre
rre Dias
R
go
Camilo 16
4
da
do
P
Veloso
sL
So
R Conde
a
de Bobade Tiradentes
br
la
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1
a
3
R Clau
dio M
R Brigadeiro Mos
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10
13
Antnio
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Dias
Sena
8
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RP
RX
24
Largo do
Rosrio
14
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de Paula
Alu
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Jos
na
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Av
Dr Vit
Pa ori
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Ho ias
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25
r Alv
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R Co
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R Pa
ran
Ca
RT
eix
Rd
P
os
io Martin
jes
R Antn
E
B2
A2
B2
B2
o
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R Jo
adr
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ria
RP
R Desidr
Domingos de Abreu
ita
R Santa R
A2
C4
B2
C2
A1
A3
500 m
0.3 miles
EATING
Adega..............................................20
Caf e Cia........................................21
Chocolates Ouro Prto ....................22
Restaurante Chfariz .......................23
To Mariana;
Minas da Passagem
(30km)
TRANSPORT
Bus Station.......................................25 A1
DRINKING
Acaso 85 .........................................24 A2
B2
A2
A2
A2
SLEEPING
Albergue de Juventude Brumas
Hostel..........................................14
Hospedaria Antiga............................15
Hotel Colonial ..................................16
Pousada Nello Nuno ........................17
Pousada So Francisco......................18
Pousada Vila dos Pilares ..................19
io de M
ato
s
INFORMATION
Associao de Guias (Tourist Office)...1
Banco do Brasil...................................2
Cyberhouse........................................3
HSBC..................................................4
0
0
www.lonelyplanet.com
BRAZIL
OURO PRTO
T H E S O U T H E A S T O u r o P r t o 311
Diogo de Vasco
ncelos
BRAZIL
312 T H E S O U T H E A S T O u r o P r t o
Sleeping
Albergue de Juventude Brumas Hostel (%3551-2944;
www.lonelyplanet.com
CONGONHAS
%0xx31 / pop 45,000
ALEIJADINHO
Aleijadinho (Antnio Francisco Lisboa,
17301814), son of a Portuguese architect
and an African slave, lost the use of his
hands and legs at the age of 30 but, with
a hammer and chisel strapped to his arms,
he advanced art in Brazil from the excesses
of baroque to a finer, more graceful rococo.
This Brazilian Michelangelo sculpted the
12 Old Testament Prophets, his masterworks, at the Baslica do Bom Jesus de
Matosinhos in Congonhas between 1800
and 1805. Aleijadinho was also responsible
for the six chapels here and their wooden
statues representing the Passion of Christ,
which together are just as impressive as
the Prophets.
Information
Tourist office (%3372-7338; Praa Frei Orlando 90;
BRAZIL
This small town, 72km south of Belo Horizonte, would attract few visitors if not for the
Baslica do Bom Jesus de Matosinhos and,
more importantly, its magnificently carved
sculptures. Aleijadinhos 12 Prophets are among
Brazils most famed works of art. Art-lovers
and admirers of the mystifying artist should
definitely make the Congonhas detour.
The tourism office (%3731-1300; h8am-6pm),
located on the way into town, can advise about
city events and give directions to the camping
ground outside of town.
Congonhas Jubileu do Senhor Bom Jesus
do Matosinhos, held from September 7 to 14,
is one of Brazils biggest religious festivals,
bringing 600,000 pilgrims each year.
Dos Profetas (%3731-1352; www.hoteldosprofetas
.com.br; Av Jlia Kubitschek 54; d from US$30), a petite
hotel in the center of town, has clean rooms
with dark wood furnishings. Its a 15-minute,
mostly uphill walk to the Prophets.
The atmospheric Colonial Hotel (%37311834; Praa da Baslica 76; d from US$35) and restaurant
has huge hallways and immensely high ceilings, and its right across the street from the
Prophets.
Six daily buses run from Belo Horizonte
to Congonhas (US$5, 1 hours). Seven daily
buses connect Congonhas with So Joo del
T H E S O U T H E A S T C o n g o n h a s 313
314 T H E S O U T H E A S T Ti r a d e n t e s
Sleeping
Pousada So Benedito (%3371-7447; Rua Marechal
Deodoro 254; s/d with shared bathroom US$10/20) This
friendly place feels more like a large home
than a pousada. Cozy rooms.
Hotel Provincia de Orense (%3371-7960; Rua Marechal Deodoro 131; s/d/tr US$20/34/45) Tucked away on
a cobblestone street in a good part of town, the
Orense has spacious, modern rooms.
Hotel Brasil (%3371-2804; Av Presidente Tancredo
Neves 395; d with/without bathroom US$25/15) Large but
shabby rooms are on offer at Hotel Brasil.
There are, however, nice views of the river,
and its in a convenient location.
BRAZIL
TIRADENTES
%0xx32 / pop 6400
Information
Bradesco ATM (Rua Gabriel Passos 43)
Internet caf (Rua Cadeia 30; per hr US$3; h9am7pm) Near Igreja NS Rosrio dos Pretos.
Information
DIAMANTINA
%0xx38 / pop 45,000
Way up in the mountains, Diamantina is strikingly beautiful but rarely visited, with a different
feel from other colonial Minas towns. Unlike
the lush southern part of the state, the mountains here are desolate, with craggy, windswept
peaks. The town is still a functioning diamondmining town, though its well-preserved center
has changed little in 200 years, largely due to
its isolation. The bus trip from Belo Horizonte
(300km south) is arduous but rewarding, with
gorgeous panoramas along the way.
BRAZIL
T H E S O U T H E A S T D i a m a n t i n a 315
316 T H E S O U T H G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y
Spectacular white-sand beaches, pristine subtropical islands and the thunderous roar of the
Iguau waterfalls are a few of the attractions
of Brazils affluent south. Theres also great
whale-watching, surfing and a fascinating
train journey over the mountains. While often
given short shrift by first-time visitors, this
region offers a radically different version of
what it means to be Brazilian. Here gachos
(cowboys) still cling to the cowboy lifestyle
on the wide plains bordering Argentina and
Uruguay, and the influence from millions of
German, Italian, Swiss and Eastern European
settlers is evident in the Old World feel of
inland and coastal villages (not to mention
the blond hair and blue eyes).
The south comprises three states: Paran,
Santa Catarina and Rio Grande do Sul. The
climate is generally subtropical, but snow is
not uncommon in the interior highlands in
winter.
BRAZIL
THE SOUTH
GETTING AROUND
Short flights and longer bus journeys connect the four major cities of the South. If
youre heading to Ilha do Mel, you can catch
a bus (or the scenic train) from Curitiba to
Paranagu, from which several daily boats go
to the island. There are more frequent boat
departures from Pontal do Sul, also reached
by bus from Curitiba (p302).
CURITIBA
%0xx41 / pop 1.7 million
Information
Theres a tourist information booth at the
airport.
Sleeping
There are plenty of cheap hotels across from
the bus station.
Cervantes Hotel (%3222-9593; www.cervanteshotel
.cjb.net; Rua Alfredo Bufren 66; s/d US$15/22) In a good location, this bare-bones hotel has clean rooms
with carpeting and old bathrooms. Lacy curtains add a homey touch.
Hotel Maia (%3264-1684; Av Presidente Afonso Camargo 355; s/d US$15/30) If youre arriving late or
leaving early, the clean and secure Maia is
across from the bus station.
Palace Hotel (%3222-6414; Rua Baro do Rio Branco
62; s/d US$17/26) Near Rua das Flores, the Palace is good value, with wood floors, big oldfashioned windows and good natural lighting
in its rooms.
Golden Hotel (%3323-3603; www.goldenhotelpr.com
.br; Rua Tobias de Macado 26; s/d US$17/30) A basic but
decent choice in the center, the Golden Hotel
has small narrow rooms with wood floors. The
tiny balconies are nice, as are the upper-floor
views of the cathedral.
Hotel OHara (%3232-6044; Rua XV de Novembro 770;
s/d from US$25/35) Overlooking Praa Santos Andrade, OHara has small, comfortable rooms
with modern bathrooms.
Eating
Bars and restaurants abound around Largo
da Ordem.
Spich (Rua das Flores 420; buffet US$2; hlunch Mon-Sat)
This popular lunch buffet has fresh food at
good prices. Its on the 2nd floor of the Shop
das Fbricas.
T H E S O U T H 317
www.lonelyplanet.com
0
0
THE SOUTH
200 km
120 miles
55W
50W
So
Paulo
SP
294
BR
267
Presidente
Prudente
Dourados
ra
Mato
Grosso
do Sul
Pa
o
Ri
SP
ra
r
Cascavel
25S
BR
Ciudad
del Este
n
Rio Para
So
Sep
an
BR
153
Santana do
Livramento
Embalse de
Salto Grande
31
392
30S
Tramanda
Bacupari
BR
La
101
BR
293
Bojuru
Pelotas
Tacuaremb
26
URUGUAY
Paso de
los Toros
BR
116
26
18
57
18
Laguna
Mern
Minas
Plat
55W
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
Lagoa
Mangueira
15
Laguna
Negra
Laguna de
Castillos
Ro Grande
Cassino
Lagoa
Mirim
Jaguaro
Lago Artificial
de Rincn
Treinta
del Bonete
Mercedes
Trinidad
BR
471
San Gregorio
de Polanco
y Tres
de la
da
r
Se
Bag
Salto
ra
BR
c
En
tos
as
ta
Rosrio
do Sul
ra
30
290
go
ad
ua
PORTO
ALEGRE
BR
Capan
Pa
oQ
Praia
da Rosa
Tubaro
Vacaria
Laguna
Parque
BR
Cricima
Estadual 116 Parque da
BR
Cambar
do Caracol
Ararangu
386
Ferradura do Sul
Caxias do Sul
Parque Nacional
de Aparados da Serra
Bento Gonalves
Canela
Torres
Gramado
Santa Cruz
Nova
So Francisco de Paula
do Sul
Hamburgo
So Leopoldo
os
a
gu
ru
oU
Ri
BR
290
Ri
Ilha de
Santa
Catarina
Chu
9
50W
35S
BRAZIL
Uruguaiana
Maria
Lages
tas
Rio Grande
d o S u l Santa
c
u
elo
BR
392
Itaja
BR
101
Biguau
oP
BR
287
Ilha
de So
Francisco
Joinville
FLORIANPOLIS
Passo Fundo
Ilha
do
Mel
BR
376
Rio do Sul
470
BR
282
Santo
ngelo
BR
BR
Ri
So Borja
Artigas
Frederico
Westphalen
285
Ibi
Joaaba
BR
Santo Tom
Bella
Unin
Rio
ug
Ur
Paranagu
S a n t a Blumenau
Catarina
Concrdia
Barragem do
Passo Fundo
Porto
Xavier
Rio
Caador
153
RN
14
BR
BR
116
Xanxer
Chapec
ua
San
Javier
ARGENTINA
Rio Negro
153
So Miguel
D'Oeste
RN
San Ignacio
12
Francisco Beltro
14
Posadas
472
Represa
de Foz
do Areia
25S
BR
116
CURITIBA
BR
Puerto Rico
Encarnacin
30S
RN
Puerto
Iguaz
12
Trinidad
RN
uau
Cataratas do Iguau
San Juan
Bautista
Guarapuava
Rio Ig
Foz do Iguau
Coronel
Oviedo
373
Serra G
277
Ponta
Grossa
BR
Laranjeiras
do Sul
BR
277
Capo
Bonito
Se
rr
ad
BR
376
o Mar
uiri
Itapeva
I ta
P a r a g ua y
Paran
Rio Piq
Itapetininga
R io
Iv
R o
BR
Represa
de Itaipu
280
SP
369
PARAGUAY
Avar
270
R io
Campo
Mouro
Guara
Ourinhos
BR
369
Apucarana
Cianorte
ASUNCIN
Represa
Barra Bonita
Londrina
Maring
Ja
Bauru
BR
153
Represa
Capivara
Paranava
Umuarama
Ro
ma
BR
376
Tropic of Capricorn
35S
Marlia
SP
270
Serra d
Araraquara
oM
ar
Ponta Por
R i o P a r a na p a ne
SP
300
real
Pedro Juan
Caballero
Reservatorio
Promisso
318 T H E S O U T H C u r i t i b a
www.lonelyplanet.com
0
0
zul
CURITIBA
uj
o
ra
o do C
R Bar
as
Ho
r
en
da
do
rA
24
gr
rn
Pe
no
Ne
ro
oria
Train
Station
mb
ete
eS
no
7d
Av
13
oo
et
RJ
o
ranc
de
de
n
isco
RV
Paz
uav
ap
uar
R da
io B
ilia
ro
Cai
into
l Fl
nec
Em
ro
nei
e
aivr
or F
res
Tor
out
RD
o
cisc
s
orre
oT
B1
B1
D2
C1
B2
EATING
Bars & Restaurants....(see 10)
Green Life ....................8 A2
Lucca ............................9 A2
Schwarzwald................10 A1
Spich...........................11 B2
do R
oP
cha
alen
are
ren
M
Av
Lou
rici
estf
RW
Vd
Co
lo
ra
do
aio
xot
Pei
eM
o
ind
lso
Mu
RA
4d
2
Av
i Ca
osa
edr
or P
Fre
P Rui
Barbosa
SLEEPING
3
Cervantes Hotel.............
Golden Hotel..................
4
Hotel Maia....................5
Hotel O'Hara.................6
Palace Hotel ..................7
arro
eB
d
ndr
Dr
ran
RF
n
aria
o Iv
edr
RP
ilo
RN
INFORMATION
Cybernet XV .................1 A2
Paran Turismo.............2 A2
ado
end
om
R C cedo
a
M
aur
s L
R Jo
eda
tri
ut
Do
eiro
our
rao
R Ba
t
rio
s
P General da
P
Osrio
ar
RM
7
11
L
iro
Vo
l
ro
odo
De
bro
ove
RM
P Santos
Andrade
6
eN
5d
R1
al
ech
de
s
arro
Car
sa
ves
Tra
Co
m
tas
in
Am
elhe
ons
RC
F
das
lam
RA
nte
Vice chado
Ma
2
un
anti
e
hor C
nsen
R Mo
de
ira
ere
o
Le
oP
de
los
8
Car
RC
Cavalc
lore
lho
va
Car
P
Tiradentes
ban
R
lino
me
ldan
R Sa
Carlos
e
ons
Ara
iro
lhe
ibag
RT
r
ez E
Rd
Catedral
Metropolitana
ho
arin
ha M
R Riachuelo
R So
Franc
P
isco
Garibaldi
10
dente
jo
Passeio Pblico
aria
te F
R Presiden
Largo da
Ordem
B
Av Pre
si
ral
RG
Maio
erro A
A
R 13 de
400 m
0.2 miles
BRAZIL
im
To Porto Alegre
(600km)
TRANSPORT
Bus Station..................12 D2
Bus to Airport..............13 C2
ilva
S
Av
Jard
To Aeroporto Alfonso
Pena (18km)
u
gua
I
Av
Getting Around
Alfonso Pena airport is 18km from the city
(US$25 by taxi). An AeroportoCentro bus
leaves every 20 minutes (US$1) from Av Presidente Afonso Camargo. A classier silver shuttle bus (Aeroporto Executivo; US$3) goes
direct every 20 minutes to the center making
only select stops, including the bus station,
Praa Tiradentes and Rua 24 Horas.
The white Linha Turismo bus is a great way
to see the sights that lie outside Curitibas
downtown. It starts from Praa Tiradentes
every half hour from 9am to 5.30pm Tuesday
to Sunday. You can get off the bus at any of
the 25 attractions and hop on the next one. It
costs US$7.50 for four tickets.
PARANAGU
%0xx41 / pop 140,000
ILHA DO MEL
%0xx41 / pop 1200
BRAZIL
T H E S O U T H Pa r a n a g u 319
320 T H E S O U T H I l h a d e S a n t a C a t a r i n a
BRAZIL
Activities
For a short kayaking or sailing trip across
Lagoa do Peri, contact Vicente (% 3389-5366;
vicente@barcomania.com.br; per person US$25), who
T H E S O U T H I l h a d e S a n t a C a t a r i n a 321
www.lonelyplanet.com
0
0
4840'W
10 km
6 miles
4830'W
4825'W
4820'W
To Curitiba
Ponta do
Rapa
Ponta do
Magalhes
BR
101
2725'S
Baa de
So Miguel
Ilha do
Francs
Praia de
Jurer
Ponta
Grossa
Daniela
R io
SC
2730'S
Biguau
SC
Ponta de
Sambaqui
Sambaqui
Santo Antnio
de Lisboa
Ilha de
Santa
Catarina
Cacup
Ponta Trs
Henriques
Praia do Saco
Grande
SC
404
Praia Mole
Ponta da
Gravat
Ilha das
Vinhas
Ponta
Pirajuba
2740'S
SC
Baa Sul
2745'S
Alto Ribeiro
SC
Praia do Morro
das Pedras
SC
Lagoa
do Peri
Parque
da Lagoa
do Peri
Enseado
da Brito
Caiaganguu
Praia das Aores
Costa de Dentro
Tapera
Solido
Saquinho
Caieiras da
Barra do Sul
2750'S
Praia dos
Naufragados
Ilha do
Campeche
405
405
Ponta do
Cuaiaganguu
2740'S
Campeche
Ribeiro da Ilha
Ponta do
Constantino
Praia da
Joaquina
Praia do
Campeche
Tapera
Ilha Maria
Francisca
BR
101
405
Carianos
Aeroporto
Herclio Luz
Ponta Coroa
Grande
Ilha do Xavier
SC
406
Palhoa
2735'S
Ponta do
Caador
Centro do
Lagoa
Saco dos
Limes
So Jos
Ponta da
Galheta
BRAZIL
FLORIANPOLIS
2730'S
Parque Flor do
Rio Vermelho
Barra da
Lagoa
Itacorubi
282
Ilhas das
Aranhas
Praia do Moambique
(Praia Grande)
Lagoa da
Conceio
2735'S
BR
So Joo do
Rio Vermelho
Ratones
Ponta do
Forte
Praia do
Santinho
406
Muqum
401
Baa Norte
Ingleses do
Rio Vermelho
403
R a t o ne s
2725'S
Ilha
Mato-Fame
Praia dos
Ingleses
SC
402
SC
Ilha do
Ratones Pequeno
Cachoeira
do Bom Jesus
Canasvieiras
Pontal
Ilha do
Ratones Grande
Praia
Brava
Ponta das
Canas
Ponta dos
Currais
Ponta da
Cruz
Lagoinha
Ponta das
Canas
Praia da
Armao
2745'S
Matadeiro
SC
406
Ponta da Lagoinha
Lagoinha do Leste
Pntano do Sul
Ponta da
Andorinha
Ponta das
Pacas
Ponta do
Saquinho
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
2750'S
Ilhas das
Trs Irms
BR
101
To Porto Alegre
4840'W
4835'W
4830'W
4825'W
4820'W
322 T H E S O U T H F l o r i a n p o l i s
www.lonelyplanet.com
FLORIANPOLIS
Gateway to Ilha de Santa Catarina, Florianpolis has two distinct sides to its character:
the mainland industrial zone and its historic,
more laid-back half lying across the bridge
on the western edge of Ilha de Santa Catarina.
Although the town has pretty features that invite exploration, most travelers head straight
for the eastern half of the island.
0
0
l io
M
me
s
Go
oli
sa
Pr
nt
oc
es
Pi
R
Bu
lc
oV
He
rc
lio
Lu
Av
TRANSPORT
Air-Conditioned Bus to Airport.....9 C1
Bus Station.................................(see 4)
Buses to East & South of Island..10 C2
11
Buses to North of Island.............. B1
Ga
ert
ell
s
te
z
JB
eir
lB
Jo
ep
rc
r
to
en
Lu
RD
He
Vi
rt
ou
nc
e
itt
EATING
Baa Sul
Casaro...................................7 D2
Vida Natural ...........................8 D1
ni
SLEEPING
6
Hotel Central Sumar............... B1
10
z
Lu
C2
D1
C2
A2
D2
ir Ro
lhu
aiv
a
An
INFORMATION
Alfndega (Customs House)....1
Banco do Brasil.........................2
Information Booth...................3
Information Booth...................4
Moncho...................................5
fra
ldi
do
eP
P 15 de
Novembro
str
Ma
rt
ariba
acha
ha r
d
RM
d
ra
Ric
ita G
Catedral
Metropolitana
pe
tin
R An
rci
len
ei r
ncou
s
RT
raj
an
o
To
el h
RA
co
ns
Bitte
os l
ro
RD
cis
Co
Parque Metropolitano
Francisco Dias Velho
vo
ira
Ti
Gus
ta
ve
Av G
ov
Sil
eo
do
oC
nim
er
ran
te
RJ
RF
To Mainland (8km)
en
lho
oe
de
C
ro
va
11
onte
Al
ulo F
R Pa
tista
erm
Rd
en
arv
ete
alh
mb
ro
Ivo
ro
de
S
R Ar
uilh
am
os
RT
ont
RG
lR
hm
idt
um
ida
Sc
RD
RV
R7
To Northeast
of Island;
Veleiro Tur
lip
ed
Fe
R Em
Caf das
Artes (1km)
B
R
200 m
0.1 miles
Av
A
Albergue da Juventude
Ilha de Catarina
(1.5km)
FLORIANPOLIS
RP
BRAZIL
To Airport (11km);
South of Island (20km)
ian
Jo
da
Co
sta
oe
lm
an
T H E S O U T H T o r re s 323
Getting Around
The airport is 12km south of Florianpolis.
To get there, you can take a taxi (US$16),
Correador Sudoeste local buses from the bus
station (US$1), or you could travel by air-con
Correador Sudoeste bus (US$2.50) from the
stop next to the cathedral on Praa 15 de
Novembro.
Local buses and yellow microbuses (which
take surfboards) serve all the beaches. Buses
TORRES
%0xx51 / 34,000
BRAZIL
324 T H E S O U T H C a n e l a
BRAZIL
Activities
Adventure tourism rock climbing, rappelling, rafting, mountain biking, bungee jumping is big business here. Ask at the tourist
office, or the agencies At!tude (%3282-6305;
Av Osvaldo Avanha 391) or JM Rafting (%3282-1255;
Av Osvaldo Aranha 1038).
CANELA
PORTO ALEGRE
%0xx54
Sights
Nine kilometers north from Canela, the major
attraction of Parque Estadual do Caracol (admission
US$2.50; h8:30am-5:30pm) is the spectacular Cascata do Caracol, a 130m waterfall. The Linha
Turstica bus runs there from the tourist office
every two hours from Tuesday to Sunday.
Parque da Ferradura (admission US$3; h9am5:30pm) is a 6km hike from the Parque do
Caracol entrance. Its a stunning 420m horseshoe-shaped canyon with three lookouts along
well-marked trails.
Information
Citibank (Rua 7 de Setembro 722) Has ATMs.
Cyber Zone (Rua Dr Flores 386; per hr US$2; h9am-
Sights
The 1869 Mercado Pblico (Public Market) and
the adjacent Praa 15 de Novembro constitute
the citys heart. Shops in the market sell the
T H E S O U T H P o r t o A l e g re 325
Eating
PORTO ALEGRE
0
0
ba
R Dr Flores
ne
of
Pr
An
to
Lei
te
i
sD
valdo
Aran
nd
To Dr Jekyll (500m);
Ossip (600m)
ha
Ocidente
(1.5km)
da
Ro
Av O
s
arm
a
ch
en
10
Av
A
o Peixoto
R Marechal Florin
Av Borges de Medeiros
s
7
Av Farrapos
R Dr Barros
Cassal
oel
ns
arti
R Duque de Caxia
ldi
cao
cei
Man
to M
P da
Matriz
R Esprito
Santo
on
ari
Av Independncia
as
)
R dos Andradas (R da Praia
14
R General Vitori
no
R Gen A
ndrade N
eves Av Sen
2
11
Salgado Filho
12
13 3
8
R Riachuelo
9
Jernimo Coelho
R Pinto Bandeira
Joo
Ben
s
axia
de C
ue
Duq
elo
chu
R Ria
RG
Av Alberto Bins
ssos
nior
Gen
5
de S
To Galpo Crioulo
(1km)
en
RG
15
s Pa
s J
ro
b
etem
R7
P da
Alfndega
alda
iq
RS
rio
RC
pos
Cam
P
s da
lunt
R Vo
4
P 15 de
Novembro
tria
au
M
Av
a
ueir
C3
B3
C3
B3
TRANSPORT
Bus Station.......................16 D1
e Ca
lio d
Av J
s
tilho
r do
au
M
Av
nho
Estao
Mercado
Modelo
R Se
SLEEPING
Hotel Palcio......................................8
Hotel P Matriz...................................9
Hotel Ritz.........................................10
Marechal Hotel ................................11
DRINKING
Chal da P XV................15 B2
R Cel Vicente
aC
D
16 To Airport
(12km)
EATING
Atelier das Massas ..........12 B3
Banco 40 ........................(see 4)
Churrascaria Durham ......13 B3
Delicia Natural ................14 B2
Rio Guaba
A2
C3
B3
B2
Estao
Rodoviria
Docks
Rd
INFORMATION
Citibank.............................................1
Cyber Zone .......................................2
Prontur...............................................3
Tourist Office.....................................4
RS
400 m
0.2 miles
Parque
Farroupilha
BRAZIL
Sleeping
326 T H E S O U T H J e s u i t M i s s i o n s
BRAZIL
Drinking
Chal da Praa XV (Praa 15 de Novembro) An alegrense
tradition is having a late-afternoon beer at this
place, built in 1885.
Dr Jekyll (Travessa do Carmo 76; h11pm-dawn MonSat) Cidade Baixas best late-night watering
hole with live music (alternative rock) some
nights.
Ossip (%3224-2422; Rua da Repblica 677) In Cidade Baixa, another colorful drinking spot.
Ocidente (Av Osvaldo Aranha 960) A good bar for
dancing, 2km east of downtown.
Getting Around
Porto Alegre has a one-line metr. The most
useful stations are Estao Mercado Modelo
(by the port), Estao Rodoviria (the next
stop) and the airport (three stops beyond). A
ride costs US$1.
JESUIT MISSIONS
In the early 17th century Jesuit missionaries
established a series of Indian missions in a
region straddling northeast Argentina, southeast Paraguay and neighboring bits of Brazil.
Between 1631 and 1638, after devastating
attacks by slaving expeditions from So Paulo
and hostile Indians, activity was concentrated
in 30 more easily defensible missions. These
became centers of culture as well as religion
in effect a nation within the colonies, considered by some scholars an island of utopian
progress and socialism, which at its height in
the 1720s had over 150,000 Guarani Indian
inhabitants.
Seven of the now-ruined missions lie in the
northwest of Brazils Rio Grande do Sul state,
eight are in Paraguay and 15 in Argentina.
FOZ DO IGUAU
%0xx45 / pop 295,000
The stupendous roar of 275 waterfalls crashing 80m into the Rio Iguau seems to create a
low-level buzz of excitement all over the small
T H E S O U T H F o z d o I g u a u 327
www.lonelyplanet.com
Information
Along Av Brasil there are many banks and
exchange houses. Its not safe to walk near
the riverfront at any time; robberies are fairly
common along the bridge to Ciudad del Este
in Paraguay.
Foztur information booth (%0800-451516; www
D
To Curitiba (500km) &
So Paulo (750km)
INFORMATION
Foztur Information booth...1 B4
Paraguayan Consulate.......2 C3
ENTERTAINMENT
Disco Club.......................14 C2
R Bartolomeu de Gusmo
12
R Tarob
R Edmundo de Barros
13
Av Paran
Ro Paran
R Quintino Bocaiuva
R Almirante Barroso
Av Brasil
TRANSPORT
Urban Bus Terminal (Buses to
Iguau Falls, Argentina,
15
Paraguay)..................... B1
R Naipi
Av Beira Rio
R Jorge Sanways
R Santos Dumont
DRINKING
Bar do KB......................13 D3
R Rui Barbosa
14
Av Juscelino Kubitscheck
R Xavier da Silva
10
Av Paran
Vemanto
B2
B2
B2
C4
C3
R Rebouas
R Patrulheiro
EATING
Boi em na Brasa ................8
9
Bfalo Branco.....................
Corinthiano......................10
Oficina da Sorvete ..........11
Tempero da Bahia ..........12
Av Repblica Argentina
7
lo Branco
C4
D3
B1
C1
To Long-Distance
Bus Station (3km)
15
R Pres Caste
SLEEPING
Albergue Paudimar Centro...........................4
Hostel Bambu ...................5
6
Hotel Del Rey.....................
Vila Canoas .......................7
R Mem de S
BRAZIL
R io
To Argentina
(10km)
da
Av G
R Benjamin Constant
Av Jorge Schimmelpfeng
11
Av
R Pedro II
icy
Polica
Federal
co
Bran
1
Rio
o do P Getlio
r
R Ba
Vargas
Bo
P Rio
Branco
eira
al M
Duarte da Costa
ener
400 m
0.2 miles
Ca
tar
ata
328 T H E S O U T H F o z d o I g u a u
Park; www.parquedasaves; admission US$8; h8.30am5.30pm), a five-hectare park where you can see
BRAZIL
Sleeping
Albergue Paudimar (% 3529-6061; www.paudimar
by Albergue Paudimar.
Hostel Natura (%9116-0979; hostelnatura@hotmail
Del Rey is a friendly place with spacious, comfortable rooms and a good buffet breakfast.
Getting Around
To get to the airport, 16km from the center,
catch bus 120 P Nacional (US$1, 30 minutes)
www.lonelyplanet.com
T H E C E N T R A L W E S T B r a s l i a 329
BRASLIA
%0xx61 / pop 2.3 million
Orientation
The central area is shaped like an airplane
and its divided into Asa Norte (North Wing)
and Asa Sul (South Wing). The government
buildings and monuments are located in the
fuselage, along the Eixo Monumental.
BRAZIL
330 T H E C E N T R A L W E S T B r a s l i a
www.lonelyplanet.com
0
0
55W
300 km
180 miles
51W
47W
BR
BR
gu
o A r i p ua na
Alta
Floresta
vel t
Rio Juruena
BR
163
158
BR
CUIAB
BRAZIL
BOLIVIA
Prto
Joffre
PARAGUAY
ar
R i o P a n a g u
Corumb
BR
Parque
Nacional
das Emas
So Gabriel
do Oeste
BR
Bandeirantes
Miranda
Bodoquena
Bonito
Prto Murtinho
Puerto Valle M
Guia Lopes
da Laguna
Bela Vista
rn
59W
R io
BR
55W
Information
Banks with exchange facilities are in the Setor
Bancr-io Sul (SBS, Banking Sector South)
and Setor Bancrio Norte (SBN, Banking
Sector North), both close to the local bus
station.
Airport tourist office (%364-9135; h7am-11pm)
The best place for information. Staff can organize hotel
discounts. There is also an information booth at the TV
Tower.
nt i
ns
Distrito
Federal
17S
BR
060
050
BR
Jata
153
Caldas
Novas
BR
040
Minas
Gerais
BR
Uberlndia
Mato
G r o s s o R i o G r a nd e
do Sul
Represa da 365
Ponte Nova
BR
Uberaba 262
Represa
de Furnas
So Jos do
Rio Preto
SP
300
Araatuba
Prudente
ra
BRASLIA
GOINIA
So
Paulo
BR
SP
270
153
Parana
BR
376
51W
BR
381
Bauru
Ourinhos
Londrina
Maring
21S
Ribeiro Preto
BR
Dourados
Ponta Por
020
Alto
Posse
Paraso
de Gois
Anpolis
267 Presidente
Pa
Gois
Velho
Mutum
CAMPO
GRANDE
Aquidauana
Parque
Nacional
de Braslia
Pirenpolis
Represa
Paranaiba
Coxim
BR
Parque Nacional
da Chapada
dos Veadeiros
So Jorge
Gois
BR
364
163
The
Pantanal
262
Aragaras
Rodonpolis
Transpantaneira
17S
Aruan
Barra do Garas
Baro de
Melgao
Pocon
BR
Cceres
070
San
Matas
Tropic of Caprico
63W
13S
GO
Chapada dos
Guimares
174
Tocantins
164
BR
21S
TO
050
BR
364
9S
PALMAS
So Felix do
Araguaia
Parque
Indgena
do Xingu
Mato
Grosso
Vilhena
13S
Parque
Nacional
do Araguaia
Santa
Teresinha
BR
080
364
BR
153
Rio
Xin
er
gu
ra
do
R o
ncad
o r
Ri
o d
as
M or
R io A
t es
rag
ua i
a
R oose
es
BR
Rondnia
in
l es
Par
ir
Conceio
do Araguaia
010
R io T
o ca
Te
P
Ri
R io
9S
Amazonas
R io
R io
BR
230
226
Campinas
SO
PAULO
47W
T H E C E N T R A L W E S T B r a s l i a 331
Getting Around
The airport is 12km south of the center. From
the local bus station, take bus 102 (US$2, 40
minutes) or minibus 30 (US$2, 25 minutes). A
taxi from the airport to the center costs US$15
through the tourist office.
6
Lig Vias W3 Norte
Setor
Hoteleiro
Sul
4
8
Setor
Hoteleiro
Norte
Diverses
Sul
Diverses
Norte
Teatro
Nacional
Setor
Bancrio
Sul
Via BS-S1
Via Ns-Leste
Setor
Bancrio
Norte
To SCLS 405
Restaurants (1km);
Gate's Pub (1.5km);
Bar Beirute (3km);
SLEEPING
Casablanca.............................4 B2
1
4
To Palcio do Itamaraty
(1.5km); Palcio da
Justia (1.5km); Palcio
do Congresso (1.5km);
Pier 21 (3km)
EATING
Conjunto Nacional.................5 B2
Shopping Braslia.................... B1
6
TRANSPORT
Local Bus Station....................7 A3
Travel & Car Rental Agencies..8 B2
BRAZIL
To Memorial JK (3km);
Bus and Train Station (5km)
Via S-2
bunch.
100 m
0.1 miles
0
0
CENTRAL BRASLIA
Sleeping
Eixo Monumental
332 T H E C E N T R A L W E S T Pa r q u e N a c i o n a l d a C h a p a d a d o s Ve a d e i r o s
Information
Tourist office (%0xx62-3446-1159; Ave Ari Valado;
BRAZIL
www.lonelyplanet.com
Villa So Jorge (pizzas US$9-14) A laid-back, outdoor restaurant and bar with tasty pizzas.
GOINIA
%0xx62 / pop 1.2 million
The capital of the state of Gois, 205km southwest of Braslia, Goinia is of little interest
except as a staging post for the states historic
towns or national parks.
Ask for discounts at all hotels on weekends.
Centrally located Goinia Palace (%3224-4874; Av
Anhanguera 5195; s/d from US$20/30) is among the best
budget options in town. The homey Principe
Hotel (%3224-0085; Av Anhanguera 2936; s/d US$22/44)
is another good deal.
A good per-kilo lunch spot is the central
Argus (Rua 4 No 811; per kg US$7).
Varig, TAM and Gol all fly to Goinia.
Buses leave regularly for Braslia (US$12,
three hours), Cuiab (US$40, 13 hours) and
Gois Velho (US$12, three hours).
GOIS VELHO
%0xx62 / pop 27,000
As dusk falls in this little town 145km northwest of Goinia and the churches light their
bell towers, a palpable quiet settles over the
village and except for the black jungle mountains silhouetted against the darkening sky
one might almost be in 18th-century Portugal.
Gois Velho is among the most picturesque of
the Central Wests colonial towns.
Book ahead if youre arriving on a weekend
or during Holy Week.
In a good central location, colonial guesthouse Pousada do Sol (%3371-1717; Rua Dr Americano
do Brasil 17; s/d US$15/28) has simple rooms with
good top-floor views.
Pousada Casa do Ponte (%3371-4467; Rua Moretti
Foggia s/n; s/d US$25/45) is a 50s-style hotel with
clean rooms, close to the town center.
THE PANTANAL
This vast natural paradise is Brazils major
ecological attraction and offers a density of
exotic wildlife found nowhere else in South
www.lonelyplanet.com
complaints books that youre free to peruse. Theres a lot to be gleaned from
other travelers experiences.
Remember that the owner or salesperson is not always your guide, and its
the guide youre going to be with in the
wilderness for three to five days. Ask to
meet your guide if possible.
Try to get things in writing and dont
hand over your cash to any go-betweens.
Compare your options. Most operators
work out of the local bus station or airport, so its easy to shop around.
Theres no obligation to go with a tour operator. You can drive or hitchhike across
the Transpantaneira road that starts in the
northwest (Mato Grosso state), or the Estrada
Parque that loops around the south (Mato
Grosso do Sul).
The Transpantaneira is generally considered the best road for hitching or driving.
It heads 145km south from Pocon, south
of Cuiab. Youll see wildlife even without
a guide.
Tours
Ecological Expeditions (%0xx67-3782-3504;
pantanaltrekking.com; Rua Joaquim Nabuco 185; per
3 days US$160) In Campo Grande, this well-organized
operation has an office just opposite the bus station. Its
three-night/four-day packages attract heaps of budget
travelers who are looking for wildlife, but dont mind the
big groupparty atmosphere. Free nights in the Campo
Grande hostel help sweeten the deal.
Joel Souza Ecoverde Wildlife Safari Tours (Map
p335; %0xx65-3624-1386; Pousada Ecoverde, Cuiab;
per day US$60) Operating from Cuiab, this outfit offers
bird-watching and nature tours, including accommodations on farms, meals, hikes and boat rides. Contact Joel at
Pousada Ecoverde (p335). He speaks English, German and
Spanish, and the tours are excellent.
Munir Nasrs Natureco (Map p335; %0xx65-33211001; www.natureco.com.br; Rua Benedito Leite 570,
Cuiab; from US$120 a day) Another highly recommended
Cuiab guide who organizes all-inclusive tours into the
Pantanal.
Pantanal Discovery (%0xx67-3383-9791; www
.gilspantanaldiscovery.com.br; Campo Grande; per 3 days
US$175) On the ground floor of the Campo Grande bus
station, Pantanal Discovery offers three-night/four-day
packages, and it generally receives favorable reviews.
Package includes bus fare to the pickup point (Buraco da
Piranha) at the entrance to Estrada Parque, meals and
accommodations at the rustic Portal do Lontra lodge.
BRAZIL
T H E C E N T R A L W E S T T h e Pa n t a n a l 333
334 T H E C E N T R A L W E S T T h e Pa n t a n a l
www.lonelyplanet.com
0
0
THE PANTANAL
59W
100 km
60 miles
55W
57W
15S
Pa
r ag
ua
i
15S
BR
R io
174
BR
070
an
BR
Parque Nacional
Chapada dos Cidade
Guimares de Pedra
Porto do
Inferno
Mirante de
Geodsia
Salgadeira
Chapada dos
Guimares
CUIAB
Cachoeira
Vu de Noiva
a
BR
eir
364
Santo Antnio
do Leverger
Tra
nsp
a
nt
070
Cceres
Mato
Grosso
Baro de Melgao
Baa
Chacoror
Pocon
San Matas
Rodonpolis
Pousada
Rio Claro
xz
Gr
an
de
Parque Nacional
do Pantanal
Matogrossense
de
Su
ns
as
Santa Ana
de Chiquitos
El Carmen
Ri
19S
Co
Lo
rr
BR
163
Rio Taquari
Coxim
The Pantanal
Aeroporto
Internacional
Puerto
Surez
19S
Corumb
Quijarro
ra
ai
g u Estrada
Hotel Pesqueiro
do Tadashi
So Gabriel
do Oeste
Pousada Portal
do Lontra
R i o N eg r a
Parque
Ri
Pa
Pousada Passo
do Lontra
Ri
BRAZIL
an
BR
364
17S
Lagoa
Mandior
rr
o
en
t es
en
Se
o
R io S
S o L o ur
o P i q ui r
Ri
i
Porto
Joffre
Laguna
Uperaba
Lagoa
Gaiba
BOLIVIA
R io
ur
en
o
ri
R i o Co
17S
Pousada
Rio Clarinho
Bandeirantes
ir a
BR
nd
Forte
Coimbra
163
Miranda
CAMPO
GRANDE
BR
262
Bodoquena
PARAGUAY
21S
Fuerte
Olimpo
Parque Nacional
da Serra da
Bodoquena
Prto
Murtinho
Puerto
Valle M
59W
Ri
Aquidauana
Mato
Grosso
do Sul
21S
Bonito
Guia Lopes
da Laguna
BR
267
Bela
Vista
o A
pa
57W
Pedro Juan
Caballero
Dourados
Ponta
Por
55W
T H E C E N T R A L W E S T C u i a b 335
estino & Rua Candido Mariano; meals per kg US$4; h11am2pm Mon-Fri) A good cheap lunch spot right in
the center.
Choppo (Av Getulio Vargas s/n; meals for 2 US$15)
This is a classic Cuiab eatery serving obscenely large meals of meat or fish; and you
can drink the coldest chope (draft beer) in
town.
Peixaria Popular (Av So Sebastio 2324; dishes
US$8-18; h11am-midnight Mon-Sat) Outside of the
center, this award-winning restaurant serves
delectable plates of fish.
SLEEPING
Hotel Samara.................2 A2
Portal do Pantanal Youth
Hostel........................3 A3
EATING
Mistura Cuiabana ...4 B2
TRANSPORT
5
Bus to Bus Station.... B2
Bus to Museu do
ndio....................6 B3
Buses to Airport.......7 A3
RC
amp
To Choppo
(600m)
oG
rand
tel
en
P da
Repblica
imb
ar
oo
ra
od
Cathedral
Tv J
Dia
nh
a)
Av
P
e(
ho
oaq
un
rre
Fe
os
om
ing
a
To Museo
do ndio (4km)
ueir
To Airport
(7km)
e Siq
co d
eJ
an
RM
ancis
o
Velh
rcia
Ga
oel
R Fr
P
Ipiranga
RD
en
te
as
RJ
ira
ua
rt
lD
Co
ron
e
vo
Av
Ten
RM
ano
rai
ria
Ma
nio
nt
ac
RA
Isa
uim
Mu
rtin
ho
Av
el C
o
To Peixaria
Popular (1km)
Pim
ald
ao
RG
a
Co
st
da
an
om
RC
P Rachid
Jaudy
Tv
Me Terre
nde ira
s
ino
gR
R Bat
ista d
RP
Cele edro
stin
o
i ca
r do
Fra nco
as Ne
ves
e
To Pousada
To Point One (400m);
Ecoverde (200m)
(Rodoviria) bus
RC
station (3km)
n
did
oM
ari
Av
an
Ge
o
Old
1
tl
P
io
n
Cuiab
Va
Alencastro R E
rga
s
5
4
nte
Sleeping
Pousada Ecoverde (%0xx65-3624-1386; Rua Pedro Celestino 391; s/d/tr US$8/11/15) Very good value, if a
little rustic. Theres a delightful courtyard and
garden, and laundry facilities are available.
Free transport from bus station or airport if
you call in advance.
INFORMATION
Banco do Brasil .............1 A2
200 m
0.1 miles
CUIAB
0
0
CUIAB
alg
BRAZIL
3d
SOUTHERN PANTANAL
R1
eM
TRANSPANTANEIRA
RB
336 T H E C E N T R A L W E S T A r o u n d C u i a b
BRAZIL
Getting Around
The airport is in Varzea Grande, 7km south
of the center. The Rodoviaria/Marajoara,
24 de Dezembro and Pireneus buses, from
opposite the Las Velas Hotel near the airport,
go to the center. Buses from the center to the
airport depart from the east side of Praa
Ipiranga.
Centro buses from inside the bus station
go to Praa Alencastro. More frequent Centro buses from outside the bus station will
drop you along Av Isaac Pvoas.
AROUND CUIAB
Cceres
%0xx65 / pop 67,000
Pocon
%0xx65 / pop 23,000
CAMPO GRANDE
%0xx67 / pop 735,000
the youth hostel has small rooms and a refreshing pool. Pantanal excursions available.
Hotel Cash (%3382-0217; Rua Baro do Rio Branco 342;
s/d/tr/q with fan US$12/17/22/30; d with air-con US$22; a)
Getting Around
Buses to the center (7km) go from the stop
on the main road outside the airport. To get
from the center to the airport, take the Indubrasil bus.
CORUMB
%0xx67 / pop 88,000
GETTING TO BOLIVIA
The FronteiraCorumb bus (US$1, every 30 minutes) from Praa Independncia on Rua Dom
Aquino goes to the Bolivian border. A motorcycle taxi is US$2, and a taxi costs US$6.
All Brazilian border formalities must be completed in Corumb with the Polia Federal (Praa
Repblica 51). If youre just crossing into Bolivia for a few hours to buy train tickets, you dont
need a Brazilian exit stamp.
Money changers at the frontier accept US, Brazilian and Bolivian cash.
The Bolivian border town of Quijarro is little more than a collection of shacks. Taxis run the
4km between the border and Quijarro train station for around US$8 (mototaxis cost US$4). See
the Bolivia chapter (p246) for details of the train trip between Quijarro and Santa Cruz.
BRAZIL
T H E C E N T R A L W E S T C o r u m b 337
338 T H E C E N T R A L W E S T B o n i t o
BONITO
BRAZIL
Sleeping
Its sensible to book in advance, particularly
on weekends.
HI hostel Albergue da Juventude do Ecoturismo
(%3255-1462; www.ajbonito.com.br; Rua Lcio Borralho 716;
dm with/without YHI card US$12/15; is) The lively
Eating
O Casaro (Rua Coronel Pilad Rebua 1843; per kg US$6) A
popular per-kilo seafood restaurant.
Restaurante da Vov (Rua Felinto Muller; per kg US$8)
Serves excellent per-kilo regional food.
Cantinho do Peixe (Rua 31 de Maro 1918; mains from
US$10) One of the best places in town to try
fresh pintado and other Bonito specialties.
Taboa Bar (Rua Coronel Pilad Rebua 1841) In the heart
of the main street, this lively indoor-outdoor
bar is an excellent spot for a drink. Live music
on weekends.
PONTA POR
%0xx67 / pop 66,000
www.lonelyplanet.com
THE NORTHEAST
SALVADOR
%0xx71 / pop 2.4 million
Orientation
For Barra and Cidade Alta, cross the footbridge from the bus station (8km from the
center) to Shopping Iguatem and catch the
air-con Praa da S minibus (US$2.25). Catch
the same bus from the airport (over 30km
from the center). For a cheaper ride, there are
city bus terminals in front of both the bus station and the airport. For Barra catch a Barra
1, Vale dos Rios or STIEP R3 bus, for Cidade
Alta, catch a Praa da S bus.
Salvador sits on a peninsula at the mouth of
the Baa de Todos os Santos. The city center is
on the bay side and is divided by a steep bluff
into two parts: the Cidade Baixa (Lower City),
containing the commercial center and port,
and Cidade Alta (Upper City), containing the
Pelourinho. The Pel is the center of Salvadors
history, tourism and nightlife. Gritty commercial areas (Cidade Baixa and the stretch between Praa da S and Praa Campo Grande)
are noisy by day and deserted by night and on
Sundays. South, at the tip of the peninsula, is
the affluent Barra district (the Porto da Barra
waterfront is a little seedy). Beachside residential neighborhoods stretch northeast along the
coast, with Rio Vermelho and Itapu being the
most interesting for visitors.
Information
EMERGENCY
BRAZIL
Year-round warmth, physical beauty and sensual culture rich in folkloric traditions make
Brazils Northeast a true tropical paradise.
More than 2000km of fertile coastline is
studded with idyllic white-sand beaches,
pockets of lush rainforest, sand dunes and
coral reefs. A spectrum of natural environments creates the perfect backdrop for a wide
variety of outdoor activities.
The Portuguese settled these lands first, so
they breathe history. The colonial centers of
Salvador, Olinda and So Lus are packed with
beautifully restored and satisfyingly decaying
architecture.
This is arguably Brazils most fascinating
and culturally rich region. Lively festivals,
myriad music and dance styles and exotic
cuisine loaded with seafood draw crowds.
Magical beach villages with beautiful scenery
and hip party scenes also delight.
Life is simple and slow-paced in the Northeasts agricultural interior and coastal fishing villages. People here face massive social
problems, including poverty caused by underemployment and a decaying education
system, housing shortages and an absence of
basic services such as sanitation, which causes
high infant mortality rates. Inland people
often live in extreme poverty, especially in the
more northerly states. Though many leave the
region seeking better opportunities, Northeasterners are extremely proud of their lands
beautiful human and physical geography.
T H E N O R T H E A S T G e t t i n g T h e re & A r o u n d 339
340 T H E N O R T H E A S T S a l v a d o r
www.lonelyplanet.com
MONEY
POST
Money changers along Cruzeiro de So Francisco change travelers checks and cash. There
are major bank ATMs at the bus station, airport, Shopping Barra and Shopping Iguatemi,
or at the following:
Banco do Brasil (Cruzeiro de So Francisco 11, Pelourinho)
Bradesco (Praa Municipal)
THE NORTHEAST
44W
46W
42W
40W
300 km
180 miles
38W
36W
Bragana
Lenis de Cururupu
uru
p
316
in
da
BR
222
R io
BR
I ta
343
Cear
230
Carolina
R io
a
ar n
122
cisco
Fran
So
Rio
sc o
anci
MACEI
BR
116
Tefilo
Otoni
040
18S
10S
Penedo
116
Sergipe
Laranjeiras
So Cristvo
Bahia
ARACAJU
BR
BR
324
052
BR
101
Feira de
Santana
So Felix
Cachoeira
Bom Despacho
BR
Valena
Itamaraju
BR
101
BR
48W
Alagoas
Arapiraca
BR
Eunpolis
Parque Nacional
do Pau Brasil
Itabela
Paracatu
Patos de
Minas
423
12S
Algoinhas
Praia do Forte
Arembepe
14S
ATLANTIC
Montes
Claros
8S
RECIFE
Cabo
Garanhuns
Parque Nacional
SALVADOR
da Chapada
116
Baa de Todos
Morro de
Diamantina
os Santos
So Paulo
Jequi
Barra Grande
Caetit
Itacar
Vitria da
BR
122
Conquista
Itabuna
Ilhus
Bom Jesus
da Lapa
BRASLIA
050
Fazenda
Nova
Caruaru
Januria
BR
Jacum
Olinda
Jaboato
BR
407
Itaberaba
Lenis
Minas
Gerais
230
BR
Juazeiro
BR
242
Paran
Distrito
Federal
Barragem
de Itaparica
a
e rr
Belem de
So Francisco
BR
428
Fr
Tocantins
BR
BR
JOO
PESSOA
BR
Campina Grande
Pernambuco
Petrolina
020
020
101
Paraba
232
BR
BR
324
Xique-Xique
Posse
BR
Sousa
BR
Represa de
Sobradinho
Barreiras
6S
Praia
da Pipa
Goaininha
Juazeiro
do Norte
Parque Nacional
da Serra
da Capivara
Gilbus
Gois
NATAL
BR
BR
14S
Mossor
BR
135
12S
BR
304
407
Eliseu
Martins
Parque Nacional
Serra das Confuses
Bom Jesus
10S
Aracati
Canoa Quebrada
e
ib
Rio Grande
do Norte
116
Picos
4S
Iguatu
BR
316
BR
8S
Crates
Piau
BRAZIL
R io
T o ca nt i s
Maranho
020
TERESINA
Presidente
Dutra
226
Imperatriz
6S
BR
Caxias
BR
FORTALEZA
Ja
Ri
Santa
Luzia
Camocim
cu
ru
010
4S
Jericoacoara
Jijoca
Vargem
Paulinho
BR
Tiangu
Grande 222 Neves BR
Sobral
343
BR
BR
135
Parque Nacional
222
Parque Nacional
de Sete Cidades
Bacabal
de Ubajara
Piripiri
Reserva Biolgica
do Gurupi
2S
OCEAN
gu
a
BR
Barreirinhas
Rio
G
BR
ATLANTIC
Parque Nacional
Baa de
So Marcos dos Lenis
Maranhenses
Alcntara
Tutia
SO LUS
Parnaba
R io
Par
pi
2S
Caravelas
OCEAN
16S
Porto Seguro
Arraial dAjuda
Trancoso
Caraiva
Parque Nacional
de Monte Pascoal
Parque Nacional
Marinho dos Albrolhos
18S
BR
365
46W
44W
Governador
Valadares
42W
Esprito
Santo
38W
36W
34W
T H E N O R T H E A S T S a l v a d o r 341
www.lonelyplanet.com
Sights
PELOURINHO
Activities
Much of Bahian life revolves around the AfroBrazilian religion Candombl. A visit to a terreiro promises hours of ritual and possession,
and will deepen your understanding of Bahian
culture. Wear clean, light-colored clothes (no
shorts) and go well fed. The Federao Baiana
do Culto Afro-Brasileiro (Rua Alfredo de Brito 39) can
provide addresses and schedules.
Tour operators out of the Terminal Martimo
Turstico offer fun boat tours of the Baa de Todos
os Santos, with stops for lunch and swimming
at island beaches (per person US$17.50).
Praia do Porto in Barra is a small, usually
packed beach with calm waters. For less
crowded beaches and cleaner water, head out
to Piat (25km), Itapo (27km) or beyond.
Courses
Associaco de Capoeira Mestre Bimba (Rua das Laranjeiras 1, Pelourinho) runs classes in capoeira (martial
art/dance), maculel (stick fighting), percussion
and berimbau. It also gives shows (US$5).
The following offer classes in traditional
and contemporary Afro-Brazilian dance, capoeira and percussion:
Dispora Art Center (Largo de So Francisco 21, 3rd fl,
Pelourinho)
BRAZIL
342 T H E N O R T H E A S T S a l v a d o r
www.lonelyplanet.com
0
0
SALVADOR
SLEEPING
Albergue da Juventude do
Pel.................................19
Arthemis Hotel.................... 20
Laranjeiras Hotel..................21
Pousada dos Sonhos............22
Pousada Encontro dos
Artistas............................ 23
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EATING
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BRAZIL
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31
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So Joaquim (1km);
Igreja NS
do Bonfim (5km)
Ga
D2
C4
D4
D3
D4
D4
C4
D4
B3
D4
B4
D4
C4
To Delicatessen
do Carmo (30m);
Santo Antnio (50m)
io
INFORMATION
Bahiatursa Tourist Office....... 1
Banco do Brasil......................2
Bradesco................................3
Bradesco ATM....................... 4
Central Post Office.................5
Deltur.................................... 6
Emtursa Tourist Office...........7
Post Office............................ 8
S Internet.............................9
de Santo Antn
Rua Direita
200 m
0.1 miles
D3
D4
D4
D3
ENTERTAINMENT
SENAC................................ 29 D3
Teatro Miguel Santana........ 30 D3
TRANSPORT
Avenida da Frana Bus Stop..31
Bus Stop...............................32
Elevador Lacerda..................33
Plano Inclinado Gonalves
(Funicular Railway)..........34
Praa da S Bus Stop............35
Terminal Martimo Turstico.. 36
A3
B5
B4
C3
B5
A3
T H E N O R T H E A S T S a l v a d o r 343
www.guiafacilnet.com; pousadaencontrodosartistas@hotmail
.com; Rua Joo de Deus 23; dm/d US$15/50) The taste
BRAZIL
Safety Tips
Sleeping
344 T H E N O R T H E A S T S a l v a d o r
SPLURGE!
Paraso Tropical (mains US$17) Rio Vermelho
ing required.
Pousada Milagres (%3264-4113; www.pousada
overpriced! Rooms in this converted 1920sera house have wood parquet floors, colorful
walls and good bathrooms.
BRAZIL
Eating
Salvador has some excellent restaurants, and
is most known for its African-influenced Bahian cuisine. A street-food staple is acaraj
(fritters made with brown beans and shrimp
fried in dend palm oil). There are usually
cover charges for live music.
PELOURINHO
In Cidade Alta, reputable restaurants cluster in the Pel and up Rua Direita de Santo
Antnio.
Mo na Massa (Rua Direita do Santo Antnio 18; hnoon5pm) This lower-level restaurant has an open-air
patio overlooking the bay, and a yummy prato
feito (plate of the day; US$3.50 to US$7.50)
with mashed potatoes or pumpkin.
Delicatessen do Carmo (Rua do Carmo 68; per kg
US$7) This small neighborhood store-bakery
has a great fresh buffet lunch and an owner
who uses terms of endearment with all of her
customers.
Coliseu (Cruzeiro de So Francisco, 2nd fl; per kg US$11.45)
The Pels largest and best lunch buffet restaurant is a great place to sample regional
dishes.
O Nilo (Rua Laranjeiras 44; dishes US$7-11) Tantalize
your taste buds with excellent falafel, hummus,
tabuli, babaghanus and other Middle Eastern
specialties. Outdoor seating on a choice street.
La Nopa (Rua Santa Isabel 13; dishes US$7-10) This fine
Italian bistro is known for its quality fresh
pastas, risottos and meat dishes.
COASTAL NEIGHBORHOODS
Drinking
Theres not a day of the week that Salvador isnt
singing, dancing or drinking...preferably all at
the same time, and preferably outdoors.
PELOURINHO
T H E N O R T H E A S T S a l v a d o r 345
www.lonelyplanet.com
DANCE CLUBS
FOLKLORIC SHOWS
Salvador is home to world-class choreographers and performers. Shows include displays of afro (Afro-Brazilian dance), samba
de roda (flirtatious samba performed in a
circle), dances of the orixs, and maculel and
capoeira that will blow your mind, all to live
percussion and vocals.
Bal Folclrico da Bahia (Teatro Miguel Santana, Rua
Entertainment
Many of Salvadors singers, bands and Carnaval groups hold weekly ensaios (rehearsals; US$2.50 to US$20), which are essentially
concerts, in the months leading up to Carnaval. The brotherhood Filhos de Gandhy is an
afox (group tied to Candombl traditions)
Shopping
MALLS
BRAZIL
346 T H E N O R T H E A S T A re m b e p e
MARKETS
PRAIA DO FORTE
AIR
BRAZIL
4
24
20
8
6
21
11
11
24-28
33
18
Cost
(US$)
17.50-24.50
73
94
22-51
18
61-82
49-77
47-65
107
105-136
85
Frequency
10 daily
daily
daily
5-6 daily
2 daily
2 daily
2-3 daily
2 daily
4 daily
4 daily
1-2 daily
Getting Around
Linking the lower and upper cities in the
center are the newly renovated Elevador Lacerda
(5 centavos; h24hr), and the more thrilling Plano
Inclinado Gonalves (Funicular; 5 centavos; h7am-7pm
Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat). When catching the bus, watch
out for pricey air-con minibuses.
AREMBEPE
%0xx71
%0xx71
Praia do Forte has been intentionally developed into an upmarket ecological beach
resort. The result is an attractive, polished
yet laid-back holiday village with white fluffy
beaches. Surrounding the village are the Castelo do Garcia dvila (admission US$2.50; h8:30am6pm) ruins and canoeing, walking and biking
possibilities. There are ATMs.
The extremely worthwhile Projeto TAMAR
(admission US$3.50; h9am-6pm) is part of a national project working with local communities to preserve sea-turtle breeding grounds
and educate the public about endangered
turtles. It has tanks of sea turtles and other sea
life.
Pousadas are pricey here but most offer
weekday discounts in the low season. Camping
Reserva da Sapiranga (%-3342-2109; www.camping
reservadasapiranga.cbj.net; per person US$6) has shady
sites 2km behind town. Albergue Praia do Forte
(%3676-1094; www.albergue.com.br; Rua da Aurora 3; dm/d
US$11/37.50) has pleasant dorms with tile floors
The sleepy town of Cachoeira has wellmaintained colonial architecture strung along
the banks of the Rio Paraguau, in a face-off
T H E N O R T H E A S T Le n i s 347
Daily buses depart from Salvador for Cachoeira/So Flix (US$3, two hours, hourly
from 5:30am to 9:30pm). Hourly return buses
can be caught in either town from 4:20am to
6:50pm. You can also continue on to Feira de
Santana (US$2.50, 1 hours, hourly 5:30am
to 6:50pm) to make further connections.
LENIS
%0xx75 / pop 8900
Lenis is the prettiest of the old diamondmining towns in the Chapada Diamantina, a
mountainous wooded oasis in the dusty serto
(dry interior region). While the town itself is a
draw cobbled streets, brightly painted 19thcentury buildings, nestled between lush hills
it is the surrounding area bursting with caves,
waterfalls and plateaus promising panoramic
views that are the real attraction. Lenis is the
Northeasts outdoor adventure hot spot.
Information
The tourist office is in the back of the market
building next to the bridge
Banco do Brasil (Praa Horcio de Mattos) Has ATMs.
Caf.com (per hr US$3) Internet access; in the market
building.
Activities
WALKS & SWIMMING
BRAZIL
348 T H E N O R T H E A S T Le n i s
BRAZIL
Tours
This is not the time to pinch pennies take
a tour. Local tour agencies organize day car
trips (including swimming and walking) and
hikes for upward from US$20 per person,
not including admission fees if there are any.
Agencies mostly pool customers in order to
send daily groups out, so its difficult to customize a trip unless you are a large group.
Some standout sights:
Poo Encantado The Lenois poster child: a cave filled
with stunningly beautiful blue water.
Poo Azul Another rainwater-filled cave.
Gruta da Lapa Doce A cave with impressive formations.
Morro do Pai Incio The most prominent peak in the
area affording an awesome view over a plateau-filled
valley.
Cachoeira da Fumaa At 420m, Brazils longest
waterfall.
Marimbus A mini-Pantanal microregion, is only worthwhile close to dawn or dusk.
Sleeping
Reservations are required for all major holidays. If you arrive by night bus most pousadas
allow you to stay the rest of the night, only
charging for breakfast.
Pousada & Camping Lumiar (%0xx75-3334-1241;
Eating
Burritos y Taquitos (Rua So Benedito 58; 3 tacos US$3.50)
Ever thought youd be downing a tasty Mexican beef burrito or cactus taco in Bahia? Pretty
back patio.
Necos Bar (Rua da Baderna; per person US$6) Orders
must be placed 24 hours in advance at this
Lenis institution offering serious home
cooking.
Ristorante Italiano os Artistas da Massa (Rua da
Baderna 49; dishes US$6-9) The plain dining room
is redeemed by truly fresh Italian food and
quality tunes you pick off the menu.
Bode Grill (Rua 10 de Novembro 26; dishes US$9-12)
This small restaurant behind the bank is
known for a prato feito (US$3) filled with
homemade goodness.
Cozinha Aberta (Rua da Baderna 111 & Av Rui Barbosa 42;
dishes US$10) Treat yourself to Thai-style chicken
in coconut milk or Indian beef-and-vegetable
curry at this gourmet bistro following Italian
Slow Food principles (everything is as fresh,
organic and local as possible).
T H E N O R T H E A S T M o r r o D e S o Pa u l o 349
on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. All Salvador buses stop in Feira de Santana (US$13,
4 hours), where connections can be made
to just about anywhere, but are not always
well timed.
Eating
MORRO DE SO PAULO
%0xx75
ITACAR
%0xx73 / pop 18,100
Itacar is a quiet, pretty average-looking colonial fishing town at the mouth of the Rio
de Contas, long sought out by hippies and
surfers mesmerized by wide stretches of virgin
Atlantic rainforest, postcard-perfect beaches
and reliable surf breaks. Though there is some
upmarket tourism a mellow, youthful vibe
prevails, and locals and visitors still share the
streets. Surfing, reggae and ecotourism, in that
order, are main focuses.
There are ATMs and several internet cafs
(US$2.50 per hour).
Activities
Surf lessons and board rental are widely available. Beaches in town are nothing special (but
good for surfing), so head out to paradisiacal
Engenhoca, Havaizinho and Itacarezinho, 12km
south of town. Nearby, just off the highway
is Cachoeira Tijuipe (admission US$2.25), a wide,
BRAZIL
Sleeping
350 T H E N O R T H E A S T I l h u s
Sleeping
Camping Pop (%3251-2305; Praia da Concha; campsites
per person US$7.50) Shady sites, eccentric owners.
Albergue O Pharol (%3251-2527; www.albergue
BRAZIL
w w w . l o at l y p l a n e t . c o m
Book accommodations onlinen elonelyplanet.com
ILHUS
%0xx73 / pop 221,900
Information
Major banks in the center have ATMs. A
tourist-information kiosk lies between the
cathedral and the water.
Reality Internet (Rua Dom Eduardo; per hr US75)
Eating
The Igreja de So Jorge (Praa Rui Barbosa; hTueSun), built in 1534, is among Brazils oldest
churches. Casa de Jorge Amado (Rua Jorge Amado 21;
and wrote his first novel, and will be most
interesting to his readers.
Eco Parque de Una (%3633-1121; www.ecoparque
.org.br; admission US$15), 70km south of Ilhus, offers relatively worthwhile two-hour tours of
its Atlantic rainforest reserve, which include
rubber tapping, a suspended tree canopy
walkway and a swimming pond. Its cheapest
to make a direct appointment; local agencies
also arrange visits.
The best beaches, such as Praia dos Milionrios, are to the south.
T H E N O R T H E A S T I l h u s 351
w w accommodations t . c o m
Bookw . l o n e l y p l a n e online at lonelyplanet.com
Sleeping
ILHUS
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Rua 16
Rua 15
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BRAZIL
Pe s s o
Rua Epit
rd
Ru
TRANSPORT
Local Bus Terminal........................... 16 A2
Alto S
Sebastio
EATING
Barraktika........................................13 B2
Larika...............................................14 D5
Sheik................................................15 B3
Sa de Lo u
Tv Leites
Mende
arda
rezo
R T et ing
Cris
B2
B2
B1
A1
B1
B3
B4
SLEEPING
Albergue da Ilha...............................10 B2
Pousada Brisa do Mar.......................11 B3
Pousada Delmar............................... 12 D5
RD Edu
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2 To Airport (5km);
Au
Southern Beaches,
r
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(71km)
ulho
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INFORMATION
Reality Internet...................................1 B2
Tourist Information.............................2 B2
ir o
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Av
2
La
RR
Praia Da
Avenida
Av Soares Lopes
500 m
0.3 miles
352 T H E N O R T H E A S T P o r t o S e g u r o
Larika (end of Av Getlio Vargas, Pontal; hamburgers & sandwiches US$2;h6pm-1am Sun-Thu, to dawn Fri & Sat) This
popular kiosk serves specialty hamburgers
and sandwiches and every imaginable juice
combination (US$1) at bayfront tables.
Barraktika (Praa Antonio Muniz 39) An informal
hangout with outdoor tables at a bend in a
quiet street. Live music from Thursday to
Saturday.
Sheik (Alto de Oitero) Perched on a hill, chic
Sheik has great views and a bar that fills in the
late evening. It rounds out a menu of typical
dishes with Arab and Japanese food.
BRAZIL
PORTO SEGURO
%0xx73 / pop 95,700
Information
Avoid the information post at the bus station,
as it is unreliable.
Adeltur (%3288-1888; Av 22 de Abril 100,
Shopping Av) Changes cash and travelers checks.
Sleeping
Porto Seguro has as many hotels as Salvador,
but reservations should still be made during
major holidays. For seriously cheap stays,
check out the older pousadas on Rua Marechal
Deodoro.
Camping Munda Praia (%3679-2287; per person
US$7.50; s) Opposite the beach, 4km north of
town. Plenty of shade.
Pousada Casa Grande (%3268-4422; tanaina.brasil
eira@terra.com.br; Av dos Navegantes 151; s/d US$10/20) The
central location, good rooms and a green inner
courtyard have made Casa Grande the backpacker pousada in Porto. Guest-use kitchen.
Pousada Brisa do Mar (%3288-2943/1444; www
.brisadomarpousada.com.br; Praa Dr Manoel Ribeiro Coelho
188; s/d US$15/30) A long, narrow house con-
Eating
The nicest dinner restaurants cluster around
the Passarela do lcool.
Bigode Lanche (Av dos Navigantes; sandwiches US75$3.50; huntil dawn) Two trailers turn out great
T H E N O R T H E A S T P o r t o S e g u r o 353
www.lonelyplanet.com
0
0
PORTO SEGURO
A
500 m
0.3 miles
Igreja NS da
Misericrida
Aeroporto Internacional
Porto Seguro
To Camping Munda
Praia (4km);
Beach Clubs
Igreja NS
da Pena
13
Cidade
Histrica
Igreja NS do
Rosrio dos
Jesuitas
M ar
Praia do Cruzeiro
Av Bie
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Steps
2
Av Ad
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ATLANTIC
OCEAN
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INFORMATION
Adeltur.............................................. 1 D3
Banco do Brasil...................................2 D3
Internet Point.....................................3 D3
SLEEPING
Pousada Brisa do Mar........................ 4 C6
Pousada Casa Grande........................5 D3
Pousada do Francs........................... 6 D4
EATING
Bigode Lanche....................................7
Restaurante do Mineiro......................8
Restaurante Expresso Oriente.............9
Sambuca Pizzaria............................. 10
R 2 de
RI
ho
Ca
bra
sc
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Pe
dro
12
liv
OB
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C3
D4
B3
C6
4
10
Praa dos
Pataxs
rr
Fe
y
TRANSPORT
Bus Station........................................ B1
13
Bus to Beaches.................................14 D3
Bus to Beaches.................................15 D3
RP
ib
Praa da
Bandeira
ENTERTAINMENT
Bom Bordo.......................................11 D2
Passarela do lcool.......................... 12 D5
tag
Jul
RS
ust
oB
org
es
Praa do
Relgio
BRAZIL
R Cova
da Mo
a
R
da
Fa
ca
R 15
vemb
ro
os
Av do Des
Av
D
de Abri
Av 22
cobrimen
to
11
354 T H E N O R T H E A S T A r r a i a l d A j u d a
BRAZIL
Entertainment
Passarela do lcool (Alcohol Walkway; h nightly).
Stands sell fruit cocktails and crafts. There is
usually live music and often capoeira circles.
Roaming ticket vendors will let you know
where the party is, often called a luau if at
the beach clubs. Barramares puts on the best
weekly luau, which includes lambada, capoeira, live ax, forr, samba or MPB, and
other treats. If the party is up the coast, there
are usually courtesy buses from the trevo (traffic circle).
Bom Bordo (Av 22 de Abril) Is fun and the only
club in town.
ARRAIAL DAJUDA
%0xx73 / pop 13,000
Activities
Paradise Water Park (% 3575-8600; Praia dAjuda;
adult/child US$19/10) has water slides, a wave pool
and hosts big-name concerts; hours change
seasonally. Friendly Groupo Sul da Bahia (Rua
da Capoeira) offers lambada and Afro-Brazilian
dance in addition to capoeira.
Sleeping
During the low season, midlevel hotels become affordable. The depths of Rua Fbio
Messias Nobre (Rua Jatobar) has a history of
shady dealings and is best avoided.
Pousada Alto Mar (%3575-1935; www.jungleim
Eating
Vale Verde (entrance to Praia Mucug; prato feito US$5)
Great beach prato feito.
Paulo Pescador (Praa So Braz; dishes US$6) Its typical Brazilian food is fresh and yummy, with
the added benefit of superfriendly service
Entertainment
TRANCOSO
%0xx73 / pop 10,000
An eclectic mix of wealthy Brazilians, international ravers and hippies old and young
are drawn to this small tropical paradise. The
village is perched atop a tall bluff overlooking
the ocean, and centers around its Quadrado, a
wide, grassy, carless central square, host to
afternoon futebol games. At night everyone
turns out to lounge in the outdoor seating
of the restaurants that line the Quadrado,
BRAZIL
T H E N O R T H E A S T T r a n c o s o 355
356 T H E N O R T H E A S T C a r a v a
w w w . l o at l y p l a n e t . c o m
Book accommodations onlinen elonelyplanet.com
Sleeping
BRAZIL
CARAVA
ARACAJU
%0xx79 / pop 461,000
Information
Major banks have ATMs on the plazas.
Bureau de Informaes Turisticas (%3214-8848;
Eating
Restaurants and nightlife concentrate in the
city beach neighborhoods, collectively referred
to as the orla (waterfront).
Bon Apetite (Rua Joo Pessoa 71175, Centro; per kg
US$7.50) The elaborate buffet has lots of options
at this spot popular with the working crowd.
O Miguel (Av Antnio Alves 340, Atalaia Velha; carne do
sol for 2 US$12.50) The local spot for Northeastern
specialties like carne do sol (sun-dried beef).
New Hakata (Av Beira Mar; per person Wed US$15; a)
This large Japanese restaurant has an excellent all-you-can-eat buffet to live jazz every
Wednesday.
PENEDO
%0xx82 / pop 56,750
Information
Major bank ATMs are along the riverfront.
Tourist office (%3551-2727; Praa Baro de Penedo)
T H E N O R T H E A S T M a c e i 357
w w accommodations t . c o m
Bookw . l o n e l y p l a n e online at lonelyplanet.com
MACEI
%0xx82 / pop 796,840
Information
Aeroturismo (Centro %3326-2020/2500; Rua Baro do
Penedo 61; Shopping Iguatemi %3357-1184; h10am9:30pm Mon-Sat, 3-9:30pm Sun) Changes travelers checks.
Alsetures (%3315-1603; Av Dr Antnio Gouveia 1143,
Pajuara) Tourist-information office; staffed by teenagers.
Banco do Brasil (Centro Rua Joo Pessoa; Ponta Verde Av
Alvaro Otaclio 2963) Has ATMs on the Pajuara waterfront.
Monkey internet (Av Eng Mario de Gusmo 513, Ponta
Verde; per hr US$1.50; a) Provides speedy internet
until late.
Sleeping
Beachside Pajuara is much more tranquil
than the center.
Macei Hotel (%3326-1975; Rua Dr Pontes de Miranda
146; s/d US$5/10) All are clean and basic, but 2ndfloor rooms have windows.
Mar Amar (%3231-1551; Rua Dr Antnio Pedro de
Mendona 343, Pajuara; s/d US$10/20; a) The whole
place is a bit banged up, but the small rooms
with mismatching furniture are clean.
Albergue Algamar (%3231-2246; Rua Pref Abdon
Arroxelas 327, Ponta Verde; dm/s/d US$16/30/30; a) This
large house converted into a hostel has a wide
front veranda and a TV room. Private rooms
overpriced.
Pousada Glria (%3337-2348; Rua Jangadeiros 1119,
Pajuara; s/d US$20/25; a) A local family rents
these fair-sized rooms above its bakery. The
BRAZIL
hour away, Praia do Gunga is a work of tropical perfection and reason enough to stop in
Macei. The citys largest festival, Macei Fest,
is a Salvador-style, out-of-season Carnaval in
the second week of December.
358 T H E N O R T H E A S T M a c e i
MACEI
A
To Jacintinho
(2km)
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To Massagueira (10km);
Praia do Francs (24km);
Barra de So Miguel (34km)
od
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BRAZIL
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
Eating
Pajuara, Ponta Verde, and Jaticas beachfronts
are loaded with restaurants, the latter containing the most reputable dinner spots. Clusters of
beachfront stands make beiju de tapioca (US$1
to US$2) by heating manioc flour until it solidifies, folding it in half, and filling it with savory
or sweet fillings super yummy.
For a cheap seafood lunch, locals head for
Massagueira (10km south), a fishing village
on the southern shore of Lagoa Munda with
simple waterfront restaurants.
Paraso Lanches (Av Dr Antnio Gouveia 877, Pajuara)
This simple caf serves innovative sandwiches
ranging from soy to hamburger (US$1.75 to
US$4.25), salads (US$2.50 to US$5.25), savory
whole-wheat pancakes (US$2.25 to US$4.50),
aa and a huge variety of fresh fruit juices.
Porto de
Jaragu
Entertainment
Nightlife centers in Stella Maris. The three
places following fill every night.
Lampio (Av lvaro Otaclio, Jatica) Offers beachfront forr.
Orkulo (Rua Baro de Jaragu 717, Jaragu) Popular
bar has a different type of live music daily.
T H E N O R T H E A S T R e c i fe 359
www.lonelyplanet.com
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RECIFE
%0xx81 / pop 2.9 million
Coqueiro
OCEAN
SLEEPING
Hotel Praia Bonita..........
8
Macei Hotel.................9
Mar Amar....................10
11
Pousada Glria.............
Recife Rochoso
INFORMATION
Aeroturismo..................1
Alsetures........................2
ATM..............................3
ATM..............................4
5
Banco do Brasil...............
Monkey Internet............6
A2
F2
F2
H1
B1
G1
F2
B2
E2
F2
EATING
12
Paraso Lanches............ F2
13
Sarah's Esfihas.............. E2
Tapoica Stands.............14 F2
ENTERTAINMENT
Havana Caf...............15 D2
Orkulo.......................16 D2
TRANSPORT
Jangadas to Reef..........17 F2
BRAZIL
al Guim
ares
g M
rio de
Gusm
o
4
Av En
ATLANTIC
Recife
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIESBarreta
Museu Tho Brando....7 C2
Ponta
Verde
R Durv
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14
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nc
R Dr Antnio Cansan
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500 m
0.3 miles
360 T H E N O R T H E A S T R e c i fe
www.lonelyplanet.com
o
RECIFE
C
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Praia
Fo
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DRINKING
Burburinho........................7 D3
Downtown........................8 D3
ENTERTAINMENT
Torre Malakoff.................. 9 D2
SHOPPING
Casa da Cultura...............10 B3
Mercado de So Jos.......11 C4
RC
ais
de
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Forte das
Cinco Pontas
To Boa Viagem (6km);
Airport (13km); Southern Beaches
r te
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So Jos
To Bus Station
(13km)
oto
Ri
ta
12
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Av Mq
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BRAZIL
ira Cam
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Av
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EATING
Vinagreto......................6 A2
sa
aG
sI
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A
inc
Rd
Pr
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Recife
RD
SLEEPING
Hotl Central.................5 A2
Bo Av C
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Boa Vista
6
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INFORMATION
Bradesco........................1 B2
Rd
Empetur........................ 2 D2
oP
rin
Tele Centroip
c Internet......3 B2
To Olinda (20km)
400 m
0.2 miles
ber
ibe
0
0
u
Av S
Baci do Pina
TRANSPORT
Terminal Cais de Santa
Rita.............................12 C4
Transport to Olinda......... 13 A4
Orientation
per hr US$2)
Information
Bradesco (Av Guararapes, Boa Vista)
Empetur airport (%3462-4960); Recife Antigo (%32242361; Rua Bom Jesus 197); TIP (%3452-2824)
T H E N O R T H E A S T R e c i fe 361
Sleeping
Boa Viagem is a better area than the Centro.
Hotel Central (%/fax 3222-4001; s/d US$11/19)
Bright rooms with high ceilings and the treeshaded street make this once-grand 1930s
hotel a great budget option.
Albergue Maracatus do Recife (%3326-1221; www
.geocities.com/alberguemaracatus; Rua Maria Carolina 185,
Boa Viagem; dm/s/d US$12.50/12.50/25; as) Airy
Eating
Boa Viagems restaurants, outside of the Polo
Pina area (see below), are scattered. For dinner in the Centro, try the Ptio de So Pedro, a
cute colonial courtyard, or Recife Antigo.
Suco (Rua dos Navegantes 783, Boa Viagem; US$2.75-6)
Try one of 100 types of fresh fruit juices to
accompany your sandwich, quiche or salad.
Near the Recife Palace.
Vinagreto (Rua do Hospcio 203, Centro; per kg US$8.50;
a) Great buffet lunch.
Sabor de Beijo (Av Conselheiro Aguiar 2994, Boa Viagem;
per kg US$9; a) This popular sweet shop has
a pretty fancy lunch buffet. Near Albergue
Maracatus.
Parraxax (Rua Baltazar Pereira 32, Boa Viagem; per kg
US$11) Festive decor and costumed waitstaff
spice up your meal at this fun Northeasternthemed restaurant. Near the Conjunto Pernambucano on Av Conselheiro Aguiar.
Drinking
In the Centro, the Patio de So Pedro is a
popular hangout, especially on Tera Negra
(Black Tuesday), a night of Afro-Brazilian
rhythms, or during happy hour.
Boa Viagem attracts Recifes affluent youth.
Nightlife concentrates in an area called Polo
Pina.
Recife Antigo (aka Polo Bom Jesus) has a
few bars with outdoor tables along Rua Bom
Jesus that are active during happy hour and
Sunday afternoon/evenings.
Burburinho (Rua Tomzinha 106) Packs on Monday, Thursday and Saturday for pop-rock
and local bands.
Downtown (Rua Vigrio Tenrio 105) Has pool tables and a happening dance floor, and plays
rock.
Conselheiro (Av Conselheiro Aguiar 793, Boa Viagem)
Offers both a sit-down pub with food and a
dance floor, and has been rated Recifes best
place to flirt (tied with Burburinho).
Musique (Rua Tenente Joo Ccero 202, Boa Viagem)
Has good DJs, or have a drink at A Casa
next door.
Boratcho (Av Herculano Bandeira 513, Polo Pina, Boa
Viagem) This is a grooving dance club that often
plays Recifes own mangue beat (modernized
maracat).
Sala de Reboco (Rua Gregrio Junior 264, Cordeiro) The
spot for forr.
BRAZIL
362 T H E N O R T H E A S T O l i n d a
www.lonelyplanet.com
Entertainment
Information
Shopping
For Pernambucos traditional handicrafts (ceramic figurines, wood sculptures and leather
goods), head for the following.
Casa da Cultura (h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)
This is housed in a colonial-era prison which
functioned until 1979, and often has cultural
performances around 3pm on Fridays.
Mercado do So Jos (h6am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, to
noon Sun) Worthwhile market.
BRAZIL
OLINDA
%0xx81 / pop 360,000
Olinda is recognized as Recifes cultural counterpart: a vibrant city with bohemian quarters,
art galleries, music in the streets and a celebration always in the works. In the historical
center, quiet streets lined with pastel-colored
houses and packed with churches overlook
the sea. This is one of Brazils best-preserved
colonial cities and, together with Recife, one
of its major cultural centers. Despite being a
touristy destination Olinda remains charming, friendly and local.
T H E N O R T H E A S T O l i n d a 363
Sleeping
Book well ahead for Carnaval, though it can
be cheaper to rent a room or house.
Pousada dOlinda (%3494-2559; www.pousada
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To Recife (20km)
VARADORO
m
Du
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No
l
So
ire
MILAGRES
Fra
nci
Fre
Av
M
sco
do
R
arc
os
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
Museu de Arte
Comtempornea.......7 A3
Museu de Arte Sacra de
Pernambuco..............8 B2
Museu do Mamulengo..9 A2
22
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Carmo
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Igreja NS da
Graa Seminrio
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ALTO DA S
INFORMATION
1
Olind@net.com.................. C2
Olinda Net Caf................2 C2
Tourist Information............ 3 C2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Angola Me.......................4 A1
Casa dos Bonecos
Gigantes........................5 A2
Mosteiro de So Bento.......6 B4
SLEEPING
Albergue de Olinda..... 10
Pousada Alquimia........11
Pousada Alto Astral.....12
Pousada d'Olinda........13
Pousada dos Quatro
Cantos.....................14
EATING
A Toca da Pizza...........15
Cantinho da S............16
Creperia.......................17
Oficina do Sabor..........18
Restaurante Mourisco..19
C2
B2
A2
B2
A2
A1
B2
B2
A1
B3
DRINKING
Marola.........................20 D1
Preto Velho..................21 B2
TRANSPORT
Buses to Recife............22 C3
BRAZIL
Igreja NS do
Amparo
R
Sa
18
ld
an
ha
R Frei Afo
Igreja NS da
Conceio
15
Tra
vA
Est
rad
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AMPARO
nso Maria
su
ce
200 m
0.1 miles
ad
eS
o
sso
OLINDA
364 T H E N O R T H E A S T C a r u a r u
BRAZIL
Eating
Dinner prices run high in the historical
center.
Jardins do Mourisco (Av Dr Justino Gonalves; per kg
US$8) The buffet is good (the desserts are better!) and the gravel courtyard beneath towering, vine-wrapped jaca trees is memorable.
Creperia (Praa Joo Alfredo 168; dishes US$4-9) Enjoy
a sweet or savory crepe in a palm-shaded patio
or in the dining room hung with decorative plates and street signs at this charming
restaurant.
A Toca da Pizza (Rua do Guadalupe 53; large US$4.507.50) An Italian transplant serves excellent pizzas out of her simple home. Dinner only.
Cantinho da S (Ladeira da S; mains for two US$9-12.50)
Typical Brazilian meat dishes are complemented by a view over Recife at this unassuming spot.
Oficina do Sabor (Rua do Amparo 335; mains for two
US$14-35) Olindas nationally known gourmet
bistro is small, quaint and has a view over
Recife. Stuffed baked pumpkins are the house
specialty.
Drinking
Follow a sunset drink at Alto da S with dancing at one of the simple spots along unattractive Rua do Sol. Music varies from forr and
afox (traditional Afro-Brazilian rhythm) to
rock and reggae.
Preto Velho (Alto da S 681) Has live afox (Saturday) and ax, samba and reggae (Sunday
afternoon).
Marola (Travessa Dantas Barreto) Waterfront
Marola has live MPB nightly and on Sunday
afternoons.
CARUARU
%0xx81 / pop 300,000
JACUM
%0xx83 / pop 2000
T H E N O R T H E A S T J o o Pe s s o a 365
Sleeping
Tamba and Manara are beachfront and
more pleasant than the Centro.
Pousada Arco ris (%3241-8086; Rua Visconde de
Pelotas 20, Centro; s/d US$7.50/14; a) A clean, basic
option a few blocks up from the lake.
Hotel Mar Azul (%3226-2660; Av Joo Maurcio 315,
Manara; without breakfast r US$15) A no-frills place
on the waterfront with giant rooms with
kitchenettes.
Manara Hostel (%3247-1962; www.manairahostel
.br2.net; Rua Major Ciraulo 380, Manara; dm/d US$16/30;
as) This modern home converted into an
Eating
Bars and restaurants concentrate in Tamba. Stalls in front of the round Hotel Tropical Tamba serve beiju de tapioca (savory
or sweet manioc flour taco), macaxeira na
chapa (manioc pancake filled with meat or
cheese), soup and more.
Oca (Rua Almirante Barroso 303, Centro) The spot for
a weekday vegetarian buffet lunch.
Lion (Av Tamandar 624, Tamba; mains US$2.25-8)
Known for crepes, but the pizza is a good deal
on midweek rodzio nights (US$5.50).
BRAZIL
JOO PESSOA
366 T H E N O R T H E A S T P r a i a d a Pi p a
PRAIA DA PIPA
BRAZIL
Sleeping
Reservations are required for all major
holidays.
Camping das Mangueiras (%3223-8153/32462472; Rua Praia do Amor; campsites per person US$5) Shady
patches and outdoor showers.
Eating
Restaurants are pricey in Pipa.
Casa da Farinha (main road) An excellent bakery
with a sandwich grill.
Soparia Chez Liz (main road; soup US$2-4) This
simple caf serves up yummy veggie and
meat soups.
T Massa (Rua da Gameleira; pastas US$2.75-6.50)
Choose from a range of meat or veggie sauces
to top penne or spaghetti at this cute little
nook.
Tapas Bar (Rua do Cu) The Spanish tradition
of creating a meal out of several small plates
(tapas) is sensationalizing Pipa.
NATAL
%0xx84 / pop 800,000
Natal is a clean, rather bland capital surrounded by impressively large sand dunes.
Due to its status as Brazils sun city, claiming
300 sunny days yearly, its become a major
European package destination. Most travelers
stop here simply to spend a day on the dunes.
Another draw is Carnatal, Natals Salvadorstyle, out-of-season Carnaval in the first week
of December.
T H E N O R T H E A S T N a t a l 367
www.lonelyplanet.com
Information
0
0
NATAL
A
600 m
0.4 miles
res
P
Av
rg
e
eD
Jo
o
S
eb
eu
as
ROCAS
es
R Sim
e de C
Rd
oA
Rio Bra
axias
nt
Pi
ti
u
Av Duq
Port
Area
Praia do Meio
BRAZIL
oS
ho
od
Fil
Jo
af
na
eC
pera
Fonsec
nt
a Es
RS
ide
Rd
R Dcio
reia
Silva Jardim
nco
OCEAN
ri
lyc
E
en
to
C de F
can
AREIA PRETA
PETRPOLIS
R Trairi
R Mipibu
nceia
Av Alfonso Pena
R Jundiai
Av Rodrigues Alves
Rua Dr Heitor
Carrilho
Av Campos Sales
R Au
rais
R Princesa Isabel
Rua Profesor
Zuza
To Rodoviria
Nova (6km)
R Mossor
Av Prudente de Mo
CENTRO
R Joo Pessoa
Av Rio Branco
R da Co
R Caldas
R Bartolomeu
Pe
R Manoel Dantas
5
R Auta de Souza
Praia da
Areia Preta
ha
arias
a
Av Hermes da Fonsec
R Juvino Barre
lio V
arga
ilo
RIBERIA
P
no
Agusto
tricia
Severo ue Cas
riq
n
7
R He
stavo
R Ana Neri
Rio Potengi
et
en Gu
de Lira
Av
G
Rua G
Av Floriano Peixoto
Train
Station
Av Deodoro da Fonseca
et
Sach
Av
N
Av Tavaras
ATLANTIC
R Apod
To Airport (15km)
To Ponta Negra
(13km)
INFORMATION
Banco do Brasil........................1
Bradesco..................................2
Centro de Turismo................... 3
Hotel Miami Beach..................4
A4
A4
C2
D3
SLEEPING
Albergue Pousada Meu Canto..5 B3
DRINKING
Chaplin....................................6 D2
Forr con Turista....................(see 3)
TRANSPORT
Rodoviria Velha......................7 A3
368 T H E N O R T H E A S T C a n o a Q u e b r a d a
Sleeping
Most backpackers stay in pricey-and-pleasant
Ponta Negra or with Tia Helena.
Albergue Pousada Meu Canto (%3212-2811; Rua
Ana Neri, Petrpolis; dm/d US$9/20) Within minutes Tia
Helena will add you to her international family at this simple pousada with pretty greenery.
Take bus 21 to the first stop (at Padaria Duro
Trigo) on Rua Manoel Dantas.
Albergue da Costa Hostel (%3219-0095; www.alber
guedacosta.com.br; Av Praia de Ponta Negra 8932, Ponta Negra;
dm/d US$15/35, d without bathroom US$32.50; s) This
BRAZIL
Eating
In Ponta Negra, places like Esquino da Vila
serve cheap prato feitos on Rua Ver Manuel
Stiro south of Av Engenheiro Roberto Freire.
For dinner, there are all sorts of novel places
in Alto de Ponta Negra.
A Toca do Aa (Rua das Algas 2206, Alto de Ponta Negra)
Plastic tables and chairs are spread through
a large space, great for hanging out while
enjoying aa, snacks and sandwiches. On a
residential street.
Lion (Rua Aristides Porpino Filho 285B, Alto de Ponta
Negra; mains US$4.25-12) Choose between crepes,
pizza, pasta, meat or seafood dishes as you
soak in the cool atmosphere at this former
family home (resist the pool). Dont miss the
Entertainment
Ponta Negra is Natals nightlife center. There
are a few dance clubs, and a compact zone of
cool, charismatic, open-air bars around Rua
Dr Manoel Augusto Bezerra de Arajo in Alto
de Ponta Negra. The beachfront is seedy.
Chaplin (Av Presidente Caf Filho 27, Praia dos Artistas;
admission US$10; hThu-Sun) Live pagode, forr and
electronica rock this popular dance club with
six separate dance floors. Half-price cover
before 11pm.
Forr com Turista (Centro do Tourismo, Rua Aderbal
Figueiredo 980, Petrpolis; hThu) This local staple
may sound cheesy; live forr in a historical
courtyard is actually a blast.
CANOA QUEBRADA
%0xx88 / pop 2800
A former fishing village full of aging hippies, Canoa Quebrada is quickly becoming a
wind-sport hot spot. A handful of sand streets,
including a main drag lined with restaurants
and a few shops, perches between white dunes
and rust-colored ocean cliffs. There are a few
loud bars, which heat up on weekends, and
one ATM. Canoa Criana, a childrens circus
T H E N O R T H E A S T F o r t a l e z a 369
Information
Internet access is widely available in Iracema
(per hr US$2).
Banco do Brasil (Rua Floriano Peixoto 941, Centro) Has
ATMs at the Centro Cultural Drago do Mar (Iracema), and
in front of the Mercado Central (Centro) and Club Nutico
(Meireles).
Tourist information posts airport (%3477-1667);
Centro de Tourismo (%3101-5508); Praa da Ferreira
(%3226-3244); Praia Nautico (%3242-4447)
Dispenses maps and speak some English. Also at the bus
station.
FORTALEZA
Sleeping
BRAZIL
able rooms overlooking the far-off sea. Gostozinho (Rua Descida da Praia) has no sign and a variety
of good prato feitos (US$3). Daily specials
(US$3 to US$5.50) range from garlic shrimp to
chicken lasagna at Caf Habana (main road).
From Natal, catch a bus to Aracati (US$27,
six hours, six daily) and then a bus, a kombi
(US$1), which leave from Aracatis Igreja
Matriz until 8pm, or taxi (US$6) the remaining 13km to Canoa. From Fortaleza (US$9,
3 hours, four daily), its possible to pick up
the bus to Canoa in front of Albergue Atalaia
(Av Beira Mar 814, Iracema) or in front of
Club Nutico (Av Presidente Kennedy, Meireles) before it passes the bus station. Beach
Point (Av Presidente Kennedy, Meireles), a
shop facing Club Natico, sells tickets.
The one-room Museu de Arte e Cultura Populares (Centro de Turismo, Centro; admission US50; h8am4:30pm Mon-Sat, to 11:30am Sun) displays folk art
from woodblock prints to incredibly intricate
colored sand bottles. Centro Cultural Drago do
Mar (Iracema; h9am-5:30pm Mon-Thu, 2-9:30pm Fri-Sun)
houses a planetarium, cinema, theater, galleries and the Museu de Arte Contempornea (admission
US$1; hclosed Mon). Museu do Cear (Rua So Paulo 51,
Centro; admission US$1; h8:30am-5pm) has good exhibits on Cears history and anthropology.
Praia do Meireles has an attractive waterfront promenade with thatched-roof restaurants, sport facilities and an evening craft fair.
Though nothing too special, Praia do Futuro
(11km) is the cleanest and most popular of the
city beaches. Immediately northwest, tranquil
Praia do Cumbuco has dunes and jangada (traditional sailboat) trips. Beach-buggy excursions
to Morro Branco (White Hill; per person US$13) are enjoyable and sold along Meireles promenade.
370 T H E N O R T H E A S T F o r t a l e z a
FORTALEZA
B
OCEAN
nen
te B
R Jo
en
ogu
RN
osta
Barr
os
do
s Le
alve
eira
Aclo
li
Joaq
uim
RC
RD
Leo
ona
rio
om
pold
ina
Jnio
ues
drig
R Pe Clim
volo
uel
10
Man
om
Av D
R2
RC
el F
5 de
erra
Ma
ro
de
R So Jos
R Senador Almino
R Alm Jaceguai
Av
A
D'E
u
r Tabosa
R Te
RD
o Pe
axia
R Drago do Mar
R Pe
reira
Filg
ueir
as
Av S
a
ank
R Flo
rian
R Fr
19
Av Beira Mar
9
Av Monsenho
R Ro
ixot
io
mpa
al Sa
ener
eiro
de C
RC
on
R Se
nad
or P
omp
eu
do R
io B
ranc
o
RM
ajor
Facu
ndo
ro
R Ba
aio
de M
R 24
RG
BRAZIL
Prim
R dos
Pacaju
s
14 Iracema
23
io
que
R Gov Sampa
Av D
u
R Sena Madureira
dro
ezerril
R Pe
R Gen B
17
Tabaja
ra
8
e Barroso
Av Almirant
Ne
po
mu
cen
R Boris
To Praia do
A
Cumbuco (29km) v Pres
ide
nte
R Ado
R Se
Cas
lfo Ca
nad
minha
telo
or J
Av Pessoa Anta
agu
Bra
arib
nco
6
e
Train
RD
r Jo 3
Station
oM
R Jos Avelino
oreir
RC
a
astr
P dos
18
oE
Silva
Mrtires
R Se
nad
20
11
or A
lenc
ar
lencar
2
o de A
R Rufin
R S
o Pa
ulo
Catedral da S
R Sobra
l
Park
P
2
Jose de R
7
Alencar Ro Guilhe
cha rme
RV
isc d
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16
Centro
bia
R Li
5
bara
P da
to B
arro
so Ferreira
P
R Pe
Figueiras
dro
Pere
de Mello
ira
Av Tamancar
R dos
on
osa
Ponto
Praia de
Iracema
RG
ia F
orm
Ponte dos
Ingleses
ATLANTIC
Pra
R Jo
o C
orde
iro
aqu
im A
lves
lin T
ntos
Dum
P da
ont
Bandeira
ra
vo
To Airport (6km)
room, and a front patio round out this wellkept hostel. Dorm sheet set an additional
US$3.
Alamo Praia Hotel (%3219-7979; www.alamohotel
Eating
Restaurants near Iracemas Ponte dos Ingleses
are pricey and pretty seedy. Try Iracemas Av
Monsenhor Tabosa for lunch and the Centro
Cultural Drago do Mar for dinner. Varjotas restaurants have more character and/or
sophistication.
Drinking
The bars and clubs surrounding the Centro
Cultural Drago do Mar see some action all
week, and fill on weekends.
T H E N O R T H E A S T J e r i c o a c o a r a 371
www.lonelyplanet.com
0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
Pra
ia
do
INFORMATION
ATM.................................................. 1 H2
ATM................................................(see 6)
ATM..............................................(see 20)
Banco do Brasil...................................2 B2
Centro de Turismo.............................3 A2
Tourist Information ........................... 4 H2
Tourist Information ...........................5 B3
Id
ea
SLEEPING
Alamo Praia Hotel..............................8
Albergue Atalaia.................................9
Albergue Backpackers......................10
Hotel Passeio....................................11
Mundo Latino..................................12
EATING
Bebelu..............................................
13
El Gaucho.........................................14
15
Picanha do Raul................................
Self L'Escale......................................16
Pra
ia d
celo
s
SHOPPING
Mercado Central...............................20 B2
Kenn
edy
eirele
eira
Cav
cio
Mar)
boli
R Sil
va J
RA
na B
ilhar
Entertainment
rbita (Rua Drago do Mar 207, Iracema; admission US$6-8)
Has reggae (Thursday), live music, electronica
nights.
Mucuripe (Rua Travessa Maranguape 108, Centro) Another good club with one open and three
enclosed dance floors.
Shopping
Cear has a strong craft tradition (Brazils best
hammocks!). Prices are great at the Mercado
Central and the Centro de Turismo in the
center.
Praia
Jurema
1
To Morro
nedy
ente Ken
Branco (80km)
Av Presid
22 Club Nutico
o
Av Aboli
Av A
ntn
atai
TRANSPORT
Beach Point......................................21 G2
Buses to Jericoacoara........................22 G3
Buses to the Bus Station...................23 C2
Praia
Nutico
21
Av A
alca
s Va
nte
lent
e
R Jo
s V
ilar
une
Meireles
do M
(Av B
io Ju
sta
12
RC
anu
to d
e Ag
uiar
Varjota
JERICOACOARA
%0xx88 / pop 2000
BRAZIL
Aldeota
ente
va P
aule
de S
tuda
ima
rt
resid
R Sil
sa
arbo
ui B
Av R
Av P
Praia
oleo
ENTERTAINMENT
Mucuripe..........................................18 B2
rbita..............................................19 C2
os
R Jos Nap
Rocha
iri
R Paula Barros
RM
ons
Brunenhor
o
R Deputado Moreira da
Av B
aro
Pompeu
RD
Lou r Jos
renc
o
R Thomaz
RA
nt L
scon
s Va
ti
raca
de A
zerra
DRINKING
Pirata Bar..........................................17 D1
eto
R Br
R Antonele Be
os D
R Frei Mansu
R Ild
R Tito Rocha
R Tib
lban
o
efon
so A
iad
E2
D1
E2
B3
Av D
13
or Atte
Rai
r
mu ro de
nd
o G Irace
ma
iro
tor
RN
His
RC
arlo
Av
15
C1
D1
C2
B2
G3
esem
Mor bargad
eira
or
372 T H E N O R T H E A S T Pa r q u e N a c i o n a l d e S e t e C i d a d e s
Avoid bichos de p (burrowing foot parasites) by not walking barefoot. Internet runs
US$4 per hour. There are no banks.
BRAZIL
Sleeping
In the low season, midrange places become
affordable.
Pousada do Vio (%3669-2015; www.jericoacoara.tur
.br/pousadadoveio; Rua Principal; s/d US$20/30; a) Simple
rooms (some with lofts) with hammocks open
onto a sweet garden behind a family home.
Pousada Bangal (%3669-2075; www.jericoacoara
praia.com; Rua Novo Jeri; s/d US$25/30; a) A tall wall
creates an intimate compound at this rustic,
pretty pousada with a lush garden.
Pousada Atlantis (%3669-2041; www.jericoacoara
.tur.br/atlantis; Rua das Dunas; s/d US$25/35; a) A row
of simple yet comfortable rooms, each with
outdoor hammock and table look out onto a
strip of leafy plants. Swiss-owned.
Vila dos Ips (%3669-2241; www.viladosipespousada
.com.br; Rua So Francisco; s/d US$42/50; a) Rustling
palms sooth you to sleep and an ocean view
brightens your breakfast at this attractive
beachfront pousada.
Eating
Caf Brasil (between Rua Principal & Rua So Francisco)
This sweet little caf serves quality coffee
drinks, aa and light meals.
Pizzaria Delacasa (Rua Principal; pizzas US$2.25-8)
There are competitors, but these pizzas are
the best for your buck. Pastas too.
Restaurante do Sapo (Rua So Francisco; specials
US$2.50-5) Unusual prato feitos like eggplant
parmesan, eggs and moqueca de raio (Bahian
stingray stew) are served at tables in the sand
under a towering tree.
Carcar (Rua do Forr; mains US$6-12) Quality pasta
and meat dishes are prepared with fresh herbs
and the utmost care. Jeris finest food.
www.lonelyplanet.com
www.lonelyplanet.com
T H E N O R T H E A S T Pa r n a b a 373
PARNABA
%0xx86 / pop 170,000
Agencies around Porto das Barcas offer internet access (per hour US$1). Bradesco (Av Presidente Getlio Vargas 403, Centro) has reliable ATMs.
TERESINA
%0xx86 / pop700,000
ALTERNATE ROUTE
Transport between Parnaba and Barreirinhas involves rattling on a wooden bench over a track
between sand dunes, past isolated communities and gorgeous scenery. It is a recommended
adventure. From Parnaba, theres a ferry (US$17.50, seven hours) through the delta to Tutoa
(population 45,000) that leaves a few times weekly on no reliable schedule. Alternately, buses
to Tutoa (US$5.25, three hours) leave at 6am and 4:30pm daily, plus 11:30am every day but
Sunday, and 4pm on weekdays. Catch it at the bus station or the Praa Troca Troca in Parnabas
center. From Tutoa, open 4WD trucks to Paulinho Neves (aka Rio Novo; US$2.50, 1 hours) leave
at 10am and 5:30pm Monday through Saturday, 4pm on Sunday. There are pousadas in tiny
Paulinho Neves and dunes within walking distance. The 4WD ride onward to Barreirinhas (US$5,
two hours) is rougher and more scenic. Departures are at 6am and 12:30pm Monday through
Saturday, and 6am on Sunday.
BRAZIL
374 T H E N O R T H E A S T S o Lu s
www.lonelyplanet.com
SO LUS
Some call So Lus Brazils last charming
colonial capital, as it remains unselfconscious in the face of foreign, and a trickle
of national, tourism. The cobbled streets of
the revitalized historical center a Unesco
World Heritage Site are lined with colorful colonial mansions noted for their azulejo
(Portuguese painted tiles) facades used to
combat the predominant damp heat. So Lus
has a rich folkloric tradition embodied by its
colorful festivals, and has become Brazils
reggae capital.
prices.
Across from the Casa da Cultura, the selfservice Bom Bocado (Rua Paissandu 120; per kg US$8;
a) has freshly grilled meats and an indoor
waterfall. Try Camaro do Elias (Av Pedro Almeida 457)
for seafood. A fine-dining, all-you-can-eat,
buffet lunch is prepared daily at Forno e Fogo
(Luxor Piau Hotel; Praa da Bandeira 310; buffet US$9; a).
Saturdays are feijoada (bean and pork stew)
and Sundays are brunch.
BRA, Gol, TAM and Varig fly domestically from Teresinas airport, 6km north of
center.
Buses run to So Lus (US$21 to US$38,
seven hours, eight daily), Belm (US$48, 14
hours, six daily), Parnaba (US$20, five hours,
nine daily), Sobral (US$15 to US$27, seven
hours, eight daily) and Fortaleza (US$25 to
US$43, 10 hours, nine daily).
Orientation
So Lus is divided into two peninsulas by the
Rio Anil. On the southernmost, the Centro
sits on a hill above the historic core of Praia
Grande (aka Projeto Reviver). Many streets
in these neighborhoods have multiple names.
The Centro and outlying streets in Projeto
SO LUS
A
Ponte
Jos
Sarney
B
To So Francisco (1km); Lagoa da Jensen (4km);
Ponta d'Areia (6km); Calhau (8km); Beaches
A2
A3
A2
B3
B2
Av
P D Ped
rac
er
17
R dos Mangueiras
R da Paz
16
R Grande
R de Santana
Beco Escuro
R de Santa Rita
a
eid
m
Al
de
es
lh
ga
Ma
Av
R Afonso Pena
R da Palma
R Direita
13
R dos Craveiros
tos
R Joo Vital de Ma
6
15
R Godofredo Viana
10
ull
Centro
R Flores
20
18
R do Alecrim
R do Sol
de Campos
en
P Antnio
Lobo
os Fonte do
R dos Afogados Ribeiro
P Joo
Lisboa
11
R Humberto
4
R da Estrla
ire
o Fre
itorin
en V
ire
Av S
no Fre
Vitori
Av Sen
Tr Boa Ventura
2
Beco da Prensa
Bar
P
Benedito
Leite
R 28 de Julho (R do Giz)
Praia Grande
(Projecto Reviver)
dos
ns
ho
R Santo Antnio
os
Ja
R Riac
R So Joo
19
ega
To A Varanda
(6km)
Catedral
da S
R da Savedra
Trav da Passagem
h
Trapic
8
R Portugal
R da Alfnd
Bec
R do Cruz
R do
12
R de Nazar
22
R Graa Aranha
P Dom
Pedro II
21
R1
vembro
5 de No
ado
Mach
Beco da Silva
14
ro II
Rio Anil
a
Beir
R do
Mar
ar
ira M
e
Av B
R da Ribeir
INFORMATION
Banco da Amaznia.......1
Banco do Brasil..............2
Bradesco........................3
Poeme-se.......................
4
Tourist Information........5
R do E
gito
BRAZIL
T H E N O R T H E A S T S o Lu s 375
Information
Banco da Amaznia (Av Dom Pedro II; h11am-2pm
Mon-Fri) Changes US dollars and travelers checks.
Banco do Brasil (Travessa Boa Ventura) Has ATM.
Bradesco (Av Dom Pedro II) Has ATM.
Poeme-se (Rua Humberto de Campos; per hr US$1.50)
Offers internet access.
Tourist information airport (%3244-4500);
bus station (%3249-4500); Praa Benedito Leite (%32126211) Has good brochures and English-speaking
attendants.
0
0
E
R Baro de
RC
oel
ho
300 m
0.2 miles
F
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Casa da Festa.............................6
Casa do Maranho.................... 7
Casa do Nhozinho..................... 8
Museu Histrico do Estado de
Maranho..............................9
Itap
ary
Neto
SLEEPING
Hostal Solar das Pedras.............10
Pousada Internacional..............11
R do Maraj
Pousada Reviver.......................12
Pousada Vitria........................13
R da Viro
R Rio Branco
EATING
Base da Lenoca.........................14
Crioula.....................................15
Gula Gula................................ 16
Naturista Alimentos................. 17
Valry...................................... 18
B3
A2
A2
B3
B2
B2
B3
dos
R dos Vea
R Custodio Serto
stro
TRANSPORT
Hidroviria (Boats to Alcntara)..21 A3
Terminal de Integraa Praia
Grande................................ 22 A3
R do Outeiro
R do Passeio
R de Santaninha
R Grande
DRINKING
Av Gomes de Ca
Sleeping
C2
B2
B3
D3
D2
B3
BRAZIL
376 T H E N O R T H E A S T A l c n t a r a
BRAZIL
Eating
So Lus has a fairly limited restaurant
selection.
Valry (Rua do Gis) This French-owned bakery
has tasty pastries, croissants, quiches and, of
course, fantastic breads.
Naturista Alimentos (Rua do Sol 517; per kg US$7.25)
Weekday vegetarian lunch.
Base da Lenoca (Av Dom Pedro II 181; mains for 2 US$720) Enjoy a beer and a breeze with your meal
at this popular seafood restaurant overlooking
the river.
Gula Gula (Rua da Paz 414; per kg US$8; a) The spot
in the center for a workday buffet lunch.
Crioula (Beco da Pacotilha 42; per kg US$9) This large
buffet restaurant has regional decor and tasty
local specialties.
A Varanda (Rua Gensio Rego 185, Monte Castelo; mains
for 2 US$18; a) The extremely lush patio and
excellent fish, shrimp and beef dishes will
distract you from the slow service. To get
there, take a Vicente Fiaro or Santa Clara
bus from inside the Terminal de Integrao,
get off at CEFET and take your first right.
Well worth the trip.
Drinking
Take a Calhau Litornea bus from inside the
Terminal de Integrao Praia Grande to get to
the places following.
Reggae bars like Bar do Nelson (Av Litornea,
Calhau) and Roots Bar (Rua da Palma) are the thing
here. The tourist office can recommend others
that dont suffer from drunken brawls.
From Thursday to Sunday the outdoor
pubs on the Lagoa da Jensen, like Academia
do Chopp, are great for drinking beer and
listening to live music.
Entertainment
Caf Bagd (Rua Portugal) In the old city; converts
itself into a disco at night.
Studio 7 (Av dos Holandeses, Calhau) Head here for
electronica and Rio-style funk.
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ALCNTARA
%0xx98 / pop 6000
This picturesque colonial architectural treasure, slipping regally into decay, lies across the
Baa de So Marcos from So Lus. Built in the
early 17th century, Alcntara was the hub of
the regions sugar and cotton economy and
home to Maranhos rich landowners. Today
the seat of Brazils space program lies outside
of town. Alcntara makes for a memorable
day trip. There are no banks.
Two streets at the villages highest point
contain the finest architecture. Sights include
Brazils most well-preserved pelourinho (whipping post; Praa da Matriz) and the Museu Histrico
(Praa da Matriz; admission US50; h8am-2pm Mon-Sat,
9am-1pm Sun), displaying the personal effects of
www.lonelyplanet.com
THE NORTH
Certain places reside as romanticized, nearmythical destinations in travelers imaginations, and the Amazon is at the top of the
list. Images fill our heads of wild panthers
and anacondas, impossibly dense rainforest
and indigenous tribes unexposed to western ways. Some travelers leave the Amazon
BELM
%0xx91 / pop 1.4 million
BRAZIL
T H E N O R T H G e t t i n g T h e re & A r o u n d 377
vis
or
Prto
Acre
Boca
do Acre
r
Pu
Abun
R io
BR
230
Ri
Manicor
Rondnia
PORTO
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Humait
Lbrea
319
BR
a
rr
Se
65W
Ramoncito
60W
R io
S
Ta
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os
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s
ad
Mato
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Alta
Floresta
163
BR
Caracol
163
BR
bo
70W
Vilhena
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Tra
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zn
a
sam
sP
75W
Di
Sena
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Amazonas
Ri
Par
Ri
BR
55W
080
BR
156
az
Am
Santana
MACAP
Porto
Grande
Amap
Barcelos
Reserva de
Monte
bidos
Desenvolvimento
Alegre R i o
Reserva de
Sustenvel
BR
Mamiraua Desenvolvimento Parque
174
Santarm
Sustentvel
Encontro
Nacional
Alter
Parintins
Fonte
Aman
MANAUS das guas Silves
do Ja
Altamira
do Cho
Boa
Itacoatiara
a
Manacapuru
Tef
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Itaituba Tran
Parque
Uruar
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Nacional
Rurpolis
Coari
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da Amaznia
Ariquemes
RIO BRANCO Cachuela
Reserva Extrativista
Cacaulndia
Esperanza
Chico Mendes
Jaru
Plcido de
Ji-Paran
Guajar-Mirim
Brasilia
Castro
Xapuri
Parque
Assis
Riberalta Guayaramern Nacional
Cacoal
Cobija
Brasil
de Pacs
BR
Novos
Reserva 364
Forte Prncipe
Extrativista
da Beira Costa
Pedras Negras
Marques
BOLIVIA
Acre
BR
im
BR
210
Terra
Indgena
Waimiri-Atroari
Presidente
Figueiredo
Reserva
XixuaXiparin
Roraima
Claimed by
Suriname
& Guyana
Projecto
Grande
Carajs
158
BR
Parque
Indgena do
Araguaia
50W
222
BR
BR
BR
316
Paran
Porto
Nacional
Natividade
230
BR
Carolina
BR
316
BR
230
45W
10S
135
BR
5S
Barreiras
135
BR
Gilbus
Tocantinpolis
226
BR
Imperatriz
PALMAS
Porangatu
Santa
Ins
Pinheiro
Turiau
Maranho
010
Tocantins
Gurupi
Lagoa da
Confuso
Conceio
do Araguaia
153
BR
Araguana
Araguau
Parque Nacional
do Araguaia
Santa
Teresinha
So Felix do
Araguaia
158
BR
Serra
Pelada
Carajs
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230 Tucuru
BELM
Salvaterra
Abaetetuba
Soure
Algodoal
Salinpolis
OCEAN
5N
Equator
45W
600 km
400 miles
ATLANTIC
Ilha
Caviana
Joanes
Camar
Ilha de
Maraj
Amap
Caloene
Foresta
Nacional de
Caxiuan
BR
50W
Parque Nacional
do Cabo Orange
CAYENNE
St Georges
Oiapoque
FRENCH
GUIANA
(France)
55W
Claimed by
Suriname &
French Guiana
SURINAME
im
do
Parque
Nacional da
Serra do Divisor
Tabatinga
Benjamin
Constant
l
R io So
Jap ur
R io N egro
Pico da Neblina
(3014m)
Parque Nacional
do Pico da Neblina
Caracara
Bonfim
60W
GUYANA
el e
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364
Leticia
Terra Indgena
Vale do Javari
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347
BR
BOA
VISTA
174
BR
Santa Elena
de Uairn
Monte Roraima
(2875m)
Terra Indgena
Yanomami
VENEZUELA
65W
C
h
ac
10S
5S
PERU
Equator
COLOMBIA
BOGOT
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THE NORTH
378 T H E N O R T H
Bahia
BRAZIL
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T H E N O R T H B e l m 379
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Orientation
Av Presidente Vargas is the centers main drag.
The Comrcio, roughly between Av Presidente Vargas and Av Portugal, is a compact
commercial district, noisy by day and deserted
by night. Budget accommodations concentrate here. The riverfront is industrial, save
for in the Comrcio. The Cidade Velha (Old
City) is quiet and contains Belms historical buildings. East of the center, prosperous
Nazar has some chic shops and restaurants
along Av Brs de Aguiar.
Information
Banco da Amaznia (Rua Carlos Gomes; h10am-1pm
Riverboat travel is a uniquely Amazonian experience. Be forewarned that regular boats are always slow and crowded, often wet and smelly, sometimes dull and never comfortable. Luckily,
Brazilians are friendly and river culture is interesting. Do you like forr music? You wont after
this trip! Some tips:
Downstream travel is considerably faster than upstream, but boats heading upriver travel
closer to the shore, which is more scenic.
Boats often moor in port for a few days before departing check boat quality before
committing.
Fares vary little between boats, and are cheapest when bought onboard. Captains often set a
minimum ticket price for vendors. If you buy for less, the difference will be demanded once
onboard so be wary of street vendors with rock-bottom prices!
Camarotes (cabins) for two to four people are usually available and afford additional privacy
and security. Ensure that yours has a fan or air-con. Camarotes are usually the same price as
flying.
Put up your hammock (available at any market, dont forget rope!) as soon as you are allowed
to board the boat. The engine is on the lowest level, bathrooms are in the back, and foot
travel is at either end, so the ideal hammock position is on the uppermost deck, toward the
bow. Others are likely to sling their hammocks above and/or below yours.
Bring rain jacket or poncho, sheet or light blanket, toilet paper and diarrhea medication.
Meals included in the ticket price are mainly rice, beans and meat, with water or juice to
drink. Its advisable to bring a few liters of bottled water, fruit and snacks. Tomato and onion
are great to spice up the food.
Watch your gear carefully. Lock your zippers, wrap your backpack in a plastic bag or cloth,
and lash it to a ceiling beam, post or railing with rope or chain. Carry your valuables around
the boat with you. Boats stop frequently be especially alert before and while at port.
BRAZIL
RIVER TRAVEL
380 T H E N O R T H B e l m
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Sights
Brando, Cidade Velha; admission US$1; h10am-6pm TueSun) has been artistically restored. It has fan-
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BRAZIL
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Cabral ro lvares
BELM
T H E N O R T H B e l m 381
www.lonelyplanet.com
acio
Bonif
28
Bus
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Tv 14
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telo B
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Tv Ca
Tv 14
lc
Av A
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To Hospital Adventista (2km); Bosque
Municipal Rodrigues Alves (3km);
Aeroporto Valde Ces (5km)
ante
Av A
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400 m
0.2 miles
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To Casa do
Gilson (1.5km)
INFORMATION
Banco da Amaznia...........1 C3
Hilton Hotel.......................2 C4
HSBC.................................3 C3
Paratur...............................4 B2
Sinemar............................. 5 C3
Tourist Police..................... 6 A3
Tourist Police...................(see 4)
Tourist Police...................(see 3)
UK Honorary Consulate.....7 D3
Venezuelan Consulate....... 8 C4
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Baslica de NS de Nazar....
9
Casa das Onze Janelas.....10
Forte do Castelo..............11
Mercado Ver-o-Peso....... 12
Museu de Arte Sacra.......13
Museu Emlio Goeldi........14
Teatro da Paz.................. 15
F3
A5
A4
A4
A4
F3
C3
SLEEPING
Amaznia Hostel............. 16 D3
Hotel Central...................17 B3
Hotel Unidos....................18 B3
Hotel Ver-o-Peso............. 19 A3
Hotel Vitria Rgia........(see 16)
EATING
Cantina Italiana............... 20
Cozinha de Bistr............ 21
Estao das Docas............22
Express Grill.....................23
Me Natureza..................24
Restaurant Higashi...........25
Restaurante Belo Centro..26
D4
C4
B3
B3
B3
B3
B3
ENTERTAINMENT
Caf Imaginario...............27 D5
TRANSPORT
Buses to Center................28 H1
Terminal Hidroviria.........29 B1
382 T H E N O R T H B e l m
BRAZIL
Sleeping
Hotel Vitria Rgia (%3212-2077; Travessa Frutuoso Guimares 260, Comrcio; s/d US$13/16; a) A run-down,
musty place that maintains a proper hotel
structure.
Hotel Central (%3241-8477; Av Presidente Vargas
This clean, well-kept hotel is a totally presentable midrange option with a 10% discount for
cash payment. Good location.
Eating
Belm is known for pato no tucupi (duck in a
manioc juice and tongue-tingling jambu leaf
sauce), tacac (a gummy soup made from
manioc root, dried shrimp and jambu leaves)
and manioba (black beans, pork and manioc
leaves).
Me Natureza (Rua Sen Manoel Barata 889, Campina; per
kg US$10; a) The sterile dining room doesnt
do justice to the unique vegan lunch buffet.
Me Natureza makes its own soy milk and
uses raw sugar.
Restaurante Higashi (Rua de Almeida 509, Campina;
per kg US$12.50; hMon-Fri; a) This small Japanese
restaurant offers a lunch and dinner buffet,
worker specials (US$2.50 to US$7) and la
carte Japanese dinners (US$7 to US$15).
Cantina Italiana (Travessa Benjamin Constant 1401,
Nazar; mains US$9-13; a) The pink walls of this
cozy pasta and pizza restaurant are covered
with framed photos and artwork.
Cozinha de Bistr (Travessa Campos Sales 898, Comrcio;
mains around US$10; a) This funky-hip bistro,
slightly sunken below street level, has a random furniture collection and local art on the
walls. The daily lunch specials are yummy
and affordable (US$4.50 to US$7.50) and the
menu is wide ranging.
Estao das Docas (Building 2, Av Castilho Franca, Comrcio; lunch buffet US$11; a) In a renovated port
warehouse, a row of fine eateries offers allyou-can-eat lunch buffets and la carte dinners. There is one pricey per-kilo restaurant
on the 2nd level. Indoor or outdoor seating
overlooks the river.
Recommended lunch buffets:
Restaurante Belo Centro (Rua Santo Antnio 264,
Comrcio; per kg US$7; hMon-Fri)
Express Grill (Rua Sen Manoel Barata 713, Comrcio;
per kg US$12)
Drinking
The Praa da Repblica and Estao das
Docas are reliable, atmospheric spots to drink,
afternoon and night.
Caf Imaginario (Rua Apinags) The walls of a
small house have been fingerpainted and
windows flung open to let live jazz and bossa
nova (Tuesday, Friday and Saturday) float
out. The jambu-leaf pizzas (medium US$10)
are famous.
Entertainment
Mormao (Prao do Arsenal, Cidade Velha; hFri-Sun) A
covered, open-air pier has a basic bar and
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ALGODOAL
0xx91 / pop 1000
phere and friendly owner maintain its popularity. They serve tasty fish dishes.
Just up the road, Cabanas do Cesar (Rua Principal;
cabaas s/d US$7.50/12) lacks the travelers vibe, but
has good, clean cabaas with mosquito nets
and shared bathrooms.
Jardim do den (%9967-9010/9623-9690; www
.algodoal-amazon-tourism.com; Praia do Farol; hammock or
tent s/d US$12.50/20, without bathroom s/d US$30/37, cabin
US$55/65) has comfortable rooms on both floors
ILHA DE MARAJ
%0xx91 / pop 250,000
BRAZIL
BOAT
T H E N O R T H A l g o d o a l 383
384 T H E N O R T H M a c a p
Joanes
The closest to Camar, Joanes is a tiny hamlet
with the fragments of an old Jesuit church
and a good sandy beach. Livestock wander
grassy streets lined with a few shops and sandwich stands. The attractive Pousada Ventania do
Rio-Mar (%3646-2067; www.pousadaventania.com; s/d
US$22/37) sits atop a breezy headland overlooking the beach and has individually decorated
rooms. The Belgian owner offers a book exchange, and rents bikes, motorcycles, horses
and canoes. She also organizes inexpensive
walking and canoeing excursions led by locals,
and trips out with local fishermen. Several
beach restaurants serve straightforward meals
at decent prices.
BRAZIL
Salvaterra
About 18km north of Joanes, Salvaterra (population 5800) has more of a town feel and a
decent beach, Praia Grande. A tourist information kiosk is on the plaza near the river.
Atop an ocean bluff, low-key Pousada Bosque
dos Arus (%3765-1115; Segunda Rua; s/d US$25/30;
a) has good, simple wooden cabins on stilts
in an attractive natural yard. Its restaurant
serves fantastic meat and seafood dishes (for
two US$5 to US$10), soups and salads. The
young, English-speaking owners know Brazilian music well and play great tunes. Bicycles
rented.
MACAP
%0xx96 / pop 336,800
Information
Agncia Solnave (Rua Padre Jlio M Lombaerd 48)
Purchase boat tickets here.
Bradesco (Rua Cndidoo Mendes 1316) Has reliable ATMs.
Setur (%3212-5335; Rua Independncia 29) Tourist
information.
TV Som (Av Mendona Furtado 253; per hr US75)
Internet access.
Sights
The impressive Fortaleza de So Jos de Macap
(entrance Av Henrique Galcio; admission free; h9am-6pm)
was built by the Portuguese between 1764
and 1782 to defend against French incursions
from the Guianas.
The primary exhibits at the Museu SACACA de
Desenvolvimento Sustentvel (Av Feliciano Coelho 1509;
admission free; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun) are reconstructions of rural homes, from thatched huts to
riverboats. The best way to get there is via
mototaxi (US75).
APITU (Av Mendona Jr at Rua Azarias Neto; h8am-noon
& 2-6pm Mon-Sat) has a small but authentic collection of indigenous crafts.
T H E N O R T H O i a p o q u e 385
OIAPOQUE
%0xx96 / pop 13,000
PALMAS
%0xx63 / pop 151,000
BRAZIL
BOAT
386 T H E N O R T H S a n t a r m
SANTARM
%0xx93 / pop 200,000
Most travelers rush between Belm and Manaus, skipping over the very thing they are desperate to see: the Amazon. A stop in riverfront
Santarm not only breaks up a long trip, it
provides a chance to investigate the jungle
and communities seen from your hammock.
Though mild-mannered and unnoteworthy
itself, Santarm allows access to a lovely riverbeach town and beautiful rainforest preserves.
Information
Bradesco (Av Rui Barbosa) Has ATMs.
Cyber Caf (Av Tapajs 418; per hr US$1.50; a) Offers
SANTARM
C
Rio Tapajs
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SLEEPING
Brisa Hotel.........................5 C1
Hotel Brasil.........................6 B2
New City Hotel..................7 C2
INFORMATION
Bradesco......................1 B2
2
Cyber Caf................... B1
into
o
Av S
To Amazon
Tours (1km)
ino P
era
rre
a
Tv F Correa
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Av Tapa
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Rio Amazonas
dri
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P da
Matriz
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RA
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300 m
0.2 miles
Tv
BRAZIL
EATING
8
Restaurante O Mascotinho.. C1
Sacy Caseiro......................9 B2
TRANSPORT
Buses to Airport...............10 B2
Buses to Alter do Cho.....11 B3
11
T H E N O R T H A r o u n d S a n t a r m 387
Gol, Meta, Puma, Rico, TAM and Total operate domestic flights from Santarms airport,
14km west of the center. A taxi costs US$15.
The Aeroporto bus (US50, 40 minutes)
runs irregularly from early morning until
about 6pm get schedules from the airport
information desk or a fiscal at the bus stop on
Av Rui Barbosa.
BOAT
AROUND SANTARM
ALTER DO CHO
%0xx93 / pop 7000
BRAZIL
BUS
388 T H E N O R T H M a n a u s
Activities
Kayak or canoe (rental US$1.50 per hour)
the Lago Verde alone or ask around for a
guide. Very cool Me Natureza (%3527-1264; www
.maenatureza.com; Praa Sete de Setembro) offers everything from eight-day riverboat trips to walking, snorkeling, fishing or cultural excursions
around Alter (US$15 to US$43) including
into FLONA. This Argentine-owned agency
is multilingual and has English-speaking
guides. Just next door, Vento em Popa (%35271379; ventoempopa@netsan.com.br) offers much of
the same plus bike (US$15 per person) and
4WD trips.
BRAZIL
Shopping
Arariba (Travessa Antnio A Lobato) This excellent
indigenous art store unites the artwork of
eight different Amazonian tribes.
MANAUS
%0xx92 / pop 1.67 million
Orientation
The area south of the Teatro Amazonas, and
encircled by a U-shape created by Av Epaminondas, Av Floriano Peixoto and Av Getlio
Vargas, is a noisy commercial district that is
busy by day and deserted at night and on SunGETTING INTO TOWN
The airport is 13km north of the center. Bus
306 Aeroporto Centro (US90, 30 minutes)
runs roughly every half hour until 11pm.
Taxis are set at US$21, but can be cheaper
from the airport bus stop.
The bus station is 6km north of the
center and is a short walk from main bus
routes. From the station cross the footbridge
out front, walk with traffic to the closest
bus stop and take one of the buses listed
under Centro on the stops sign. A taxi
costs US$10.
T H E N O R T H M a n a u s 389
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0
0
MANAUS
TRANSPORTna
R Ipixu
Boats departing up and
down the Amazon..31 B3
City bus terminal.......32 B2
arinho
R Saldanha M
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Information
EMERGENCY
INTERNET ACCESS
US$1.50; a)
At the airport, avoid the vultures touting jungle trips or city accommodations. Some have
reportedly hustled people off to be robbed.
After 11pm steer clear of the port area and the
Praa da Matriz. If arriving late by boat, take a
taxi to a hotel muggings are common.
Sights
The cozy 19th-century Teatro Amazonas (admission
US$5; h9am-8:30pm Mon-Sat) captures the opulence of the rubber boom. English-speaking
guides are available or Livro Vivo, a theatrical group, does fun living-history tours in
BRAZIL
Bac
22
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Matriz
Porto
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Av Sete de Setembro
P da Polcia
(P Heliodoro Balbi)
R Lauro
Cavalcante
16
To Bosque da Cincia (5km);
Museo de Cincias Naturais
da Amaznia (7km)
13
R Is
Catedral
Metropolitana
de Manaus
Av
Jo
R Cel Salgado
Men
don
a
R Xa
vier
de
tos
Ma
de
RW
C3
C3
C1
C3
R Major Gabriel
SHOPPING
Artndia..................... 27
Casa das Redes......... 28
Mamirau..................29
Mercado Municipal... 30
Av Joaquim Nabuco
Av Getlio Vargas
R Dona Libnia
R Costa Azevedo
11
28
Rio
Negro
12 17 9
24
P Tenreiro
Aranha
R
31
27
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D2
C1
D3
B2
C3
C1
D3
D3
C2
C2
C1
25
To Unimed
(2km)
R Ramos Ferreira
R Henrique Martin
19
R Visc
de Mau
26
5 21
R Barroso
R 24 de Maio
Av Eduardo Ribeiro
EATING
Casa da Pomonha..................21
Churrascaria Bfalo................22
Galo Carij............................ 23
Gruta do Peixe.......................24
Mandarim..............................25
Skina dos Sucos......................26
P So
Sebastio
29
15
32
SLEEPING
Hostel Manaus......................16
Hotel Dez de Julho.................17
Hotel Ideal.............................18
Hotel Palace...........................19
Penso Sulista........................20
R Jos Clemente
R Lobo D'Almada
R da Instalao
R 10 de Julho
R Joaquim Sarmento
INFORMATION
Aca On-Line............................1 C2
Amazon Cyber Caf.................2 D1
Amaznia Cambio & Turismo.. 3 D2
Bradesco..................................4 C2
Centro de Atendimento ao
Turista..................................5 C1
HSBC.......................................6 C2
Main Post Office......................7 C2
Politur....................................(see 5)
Speed Cyber Caf....................8 C3
R Tapajs
Av Epaminondas
400 m
0.2 miles
390 T H E N O R T H M a n a u s
bro 1385; admission US$1.50; h9am-noon & 1-5pm MonFri) has anthropological displays on regional
BRAZIL
Activities
The Encontro das guas (Meeting of the Waters)
is where the dark Rio Negro meets the caf
au lait Rio Solimes. The two flow side by
side without mingling for several kilometers
(owing to differences in speed, density and
temperature), before finally combining to
create the Amazon River. Many jungle trips
include the Encontro, but if yours doesnt, see
it by either hiring a boat with the Associao
dos Canoeiros (p392), or by traveling from
Ponta do Catalo, 12km east of the center, to
Careiro. Take bus 713 from Praa da Matriz to
Ponta do Catalo (last stop) and either take a
motorboat (US$3, 40 minutes) or the hourly
car ferry (free). Careiro is a quaint village and
worth a look around.
Sleeping
Most of Manaus budget accommodations are
very low quality. Near the Teatro Amazonas
is the ideal location.
shields large, bright rooms with wooden furniture. Bathrooms are small and circa 1950.
Quietest rooms face the plaza.
Eating
Praa Heliodoro Balb and Praa So Sebastio
are good places to find food at night and on
Sundays. Try tacac (a gummy soup made
from manioc root, dried shrimp and tonguetingling jambu leaves) at street stalls.
Skina dos Sucos (cnr Av Eduardo Ribeiro & Rua 24 de Maio;
sandwiches & snacks US25-$4) This busy lunch counter serves sandwiches and snacks. A great place
for fresh Amazonian fruit juices like aa.
Gruta do Peixe (Rua Saldanha Marinho 609; per kg
US$5.50, mains US$7) Lunchtime finds this bright,
grotto-like basement crowded and a little
smoky from the meats barbecued in the back.
Known for fish.
Casa da Pamonha (Rua Barroso 375; per kg US$9; a)
Unlike the dining room, the vegetarian lunch
buffet is creative and flavorful. Arrive close
to noon for the best selection. Snacks served
all day.
Galo Carij (cnr Rua dos Andradas & Rua Pedro Botelho;
mains for 2 US$10-17) Its all about fried fish at this
low-key spot.
Mandarim (Rua Joaquim Sarmento 224; per kg US$11,
mains US$7-9; a) This Chinese restaurant has
T H E N O R T H A r o u n d M a n a u s 391
www.lonelyplanet.com
Drinking
The area surrounding the Teatro Amazonas
is the centers best area to hang out, for adults
and kids alike. On Friday and Saturday nights,
Praa da Polcia and Praa da Saudade fill with
people and snack and drink stands.
Ponta Negra (13km from the center) has
some bars and restaurants on a sort of riverfront promenade. Many of Manaus cool
nightspots sit on the Estrada de Ponta Negra
just before this area.
3 days
Cost (US$)
upper/lower deck
118/108
Porto Velho 4 days
upper/lower deck
101/97
Santarm 30-36 hr upper/lower deck
57/49
Tabatinga 6 days upper deck
134
Frequency
Wed & Fri
Tue & Fri
Tue-Sat
Tue, Wed,
Fri & Sat
Shopping
Getting Around
AROUND MANAUS
AIR
Jungle Trips
BOAT
Large passenger boats use the Estao Hidroviria (aka Porto Flutuante). Inside, Agncia
Rio Amazonas sells tickets on behalf of most
boats. Guys on the street may sell cheaper
tickets, but if something goes wrong youll be
on your own. For hammocks try Casa das Redes
BRAZIL
Entertainment
BRAZIL
392 T H E N O R T H A r o u n d M a n a u s
www.lonelyplanet.com
Manaus has scores of agencies offering Disneyland-esque tours; those listed below are
recommended budget options offering a more
genuine and adventurous experience. Some
agencies have a minimum-group-size requirement to set out, while others maintain a constant flow of clients in and out of a set spot.
Yet other agencies pool their clients. Agencies
can set up almost anything, but most have
expertise in a certain geographical area. Fees
should be all-inclusive (lodging, meals, drinking water, transfers, activities, and guides).
Unless the agency is very well established,
insist on paying a portion of the fee up front,
and the rest upon return.
Take some time to research the options.
Many well-seasoned travelers have left
Manaus disappointed with their once-in-alifetime Amazon jungle experience because
they rushed booking the trip.
Amazonas Indian Turismo (%0xx92-3633-5578;
www.amazonasindianturismo.tur.br; Rua dos Andradas 311,
Centro) The office and the English-speaking In-
dian guides just feel like the real deal, and the
client-response book is positively exuberant. Its
rustic camp on the Rio Urub has hammocks
and latrines. Three-day, two-night trips run
US$223 per person. Trips from two to 9 days.
Amazon Gero Tours (%0xx92-3232-4755; www.ama
zongerotours.com; Rua 10 de Julho 679, Centro) This agency
is run by English-speaking guides and piloted
Gero, an all-around helpful guy. Typical trips
are to Lago Mamori, Lago Ararinha and Cutrapa and run US$90 to US$110 per person per
www.lonelyplanet.com
www.acajatuba.com.br; Rua 7 87, Adrianpolis; 1-/2-night packages per person US$225/305) The lodge has 20 round
lodge on Lago Juma, 60km southeast of Manaus, this lovely lodge caters to 28 guests.
TRIPLE FRONTIER
On the northeast bank of the Amazon about
1100km west of Manaus Tabatinga (Brazil)
and Leticia (Colombia) are separated by an
SPLURGE!
A remote floodplain forest, halfway between Manaus and the Peruvian frontier, is protected
by the Reserva de Desenvolvimento Sustentvel Mamirau (Mamirau Sustainable Development
Reserve; office %0xx97-3343-4160; www.mamiraua.org.br; Av Brasil 197, Tef; all-inclusive packages per person
3 days & 3 nights US$450, 4 days & 4 nights US$520). This 1.24 million hectare reserve is part of the
second-largest (57,000 sq km) continuous block of protected tropical rainforest in the world.
Mamirau combines nature conservation and scientific research with improved opportunities
for the communities within the reserve.
Their excellent ecotourism program affords access to a pristine piece of towering primary
rainforest, rivers and lakes absolutely teeming with life. Silence there will be the loudest youve
ever heard, and wildlife-viewing is among the best in Amazonia. The reserve contains four species
of monkey (including the rare, crimson-faced white uacari), squirrels and 400-odd recorded bird
species, as well as a higher concentration of the animals seen outside of Manaus. Guides native
to the reserve and an English-speaking, trained naturalist lead unstrenuous excursions.
Average group size is 12, maximum is 20. Accommodations are in agreeably comfortable yet
unpretentious floating bungalows. The food includes regional fruits and fish, and much of it is
grown locally and/or organically.
Rico and Trip fly between Manaus, Tef and Tabatinga. From Manaus to Tef there are regular (upper/lower deck US$57/49, 45 hours, Wednesday to Saturday) and fast (US$90, 13 hours,
Wednesday and Saturday) boats. There are regular (US$45/37, 40 hours, daily except Wed) and
fast (US$90, 11 hours, Thursday and Sunday) boats for the return trip too. AJATO operates the
fast boats (p391). Boats between Tef and Tabatinga are via Juta.
BRAZIL
T H E N O R T H T r i p l e F r o n t i e r 393
394 T H E N O R T H B o a V i s t a
BRAZIL
BOA VISTA
Information
A tourist information post at the bus station
opens irregularly.
Bradesco (Av Sebastio Diniz & Rua Incio Magalhes)
Has ATMs.
GETTING TO VENEZUELA
Determine whether you require a Venezuelan tourist card from the consulate
in Manaus or Boa Vista before boarding a
Venezuela-bound bus. Buses stop at a Brazilian Polcia Federal border post for exit
stamps before entering Venezuela. The
Venezuelan town of Santa Elena de Uairn
(p1043) lies 15km north of the Venezuelan border. For information on travel from
Santa Elena to Brazil, see p1045.
Offers internet.
T H E N O R T H B o n f i m 395
GETTING TO GUYANA
Before leaving Brazil, get an exit stamp from
the Polcia Federal (h8am-7pm). The 2pm
bus leaving Boa Vista stops at the Polcia
Federal and then continues to the river.
If you take an earlier or later departure,
catch a taxi from Bonfims bus station to
the Polcia Federal (US$2.50); from there
its a short walk to the river. Motorized canoes cross the river (US$2) to Guyana. Once
there, check in with officials immediately as
smuggling is an issue here.
Sights
The Museu da Estrada de Ferro Madeira-Mamor
(Praa Madeira Mamor; admission free; h8am-6pm) displays relics from this railway line, intended
to carry rubber over the unnavigable section
of river between Guajar-Mirim and Porto
Velho, thereby connecting it to world markets. The project was a disaster, and resulted
in so many casualties it earned the nickname
Railway of Death. Restoration of the line is
rumored ask at the museum.
Sleeping
Hotel Tia Carmem (% 3221-1908/7910; Av Campos
BONFIM
%0xx95 / pop 3000
US$7.50; a).
PORTO VELHO
%0xx69 / pop 311,500
Information
Shops and offices generally close between
noon and 2pm.
Bradesco (Av Carlos Gomes) Has ATMs.
Casa de Cmbio Marco Aurlio (%3223-2551; Rua
Eating
Sandubas (Av Campos Sales 2913; sandwiches US$1.254.50) A popular open-air sandwich grill with
good juices, guaran or aa smoothies and
projected TV.
Mirante II (Rua Dom Pedro II; mains US$5-12.50;
hclosed Mon) Enjoy a meal, an aa or a drink
at this open-air patio restaurant overlooking
the river.
Remanso do Tucunar (Av Braslia 1506; mains for
2 US$10-21) Half-portions are available at this
fish restaurant. The dark dining room has
big fish tanks and plaques naming its most
loyal customers.
Gol, Rico, TAM, Trip and Varig operate domestic flights from Porto Velhos airport, 6km
from the center. A taxi costs US$12.50, or take
bus 201 Hospital de Base via Aeroporto.
BOAT
BRAZIL
396 T H E N O R T H G u a j a r - M i r i m
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0
0
PORTO VELHO
cho
Cama
ncar
de Ale
R Jos
Dutra
sidente
Av Pre
R Jos
lama
Av Ca
uim
R Joaq
R Sen
INFORMATION
Bradesco.......................................1 B2
Casa de Cmbio Marco Aurlio....2 A2
Titan Cyber Lan.........................(see 9)
Alvaro
Maia
do
ert de
Azeve
Barbo
jam
R Ben
sa
r Amara
cio
Bonif
P
Alosio
Ferreira
Dias
R Jos
Park
mo
o Gus
2
Aureli
alves
R Gon
nte
os
R Marc
ocaiv
R Quin
Ma
heiro
Av Pin
9
s
Caxia
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R Duq
Soccer
Field
12
Catedral
R Afo
11
as
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Getli
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lia
R Gral Os
B3
C3
B2
A3
si
Av Pre
In this pleasant town just opposite Guayaramern (Bolivia), bushy trees shade overgrown
grass and sidewalks, stained red by the earth,
from the relentless sun. In the quiet center
on the Rio Mamor there are quite a few
boarded-up old buildings.
Playnet Games (Posto Nogueira, Rua Getlio Vargas;
per hr US$1.25) offers internet access inside a gas
via
R Boli
s
Av Bra
abuco
GUAJAR-MIRIM
uim N
eodoro
BUS
R Joaq
chal D
de M
R Mare
R 13
les
aio
13
ranha
oso
te Barr
iran
R Alm
Rio
Madeira
4
l
lo Lea
R Pau
pos Sa
TRANSPORT
Bus 201 to Bus Station & Airport..10
Bus 201 to Bus Station & Airport..11
Buses to Bus Station & Airport....12
Porto Cai ngua.......................13
reiro A
10
II
R Ten
te
Av Se
Pedro
R Dom
rio
do
R Jose inio
Patroc
Park
tembro
de Se
mes
m
Av Ca
MadeiraMamor
Station
ho
e Casti
P
Madeira
Mamor
EATING
Mirante II.....................................7 A2
Remanso do Tucunar................. 8 D3
Sandubas....................................9 B2
os Go
rl
Av Ca
Julio d
eber
rio W
R Rog
mont
tos Du
R San
SLEEPING
Hotel Tereza Raquel..................... 4 C3
Hotel Tia Carmem........................5 B2
Vitria Palace Hotel......................6 B2
chado
P Caixas
D'Agua
BRAZIL
stant
in Con
tino B
R Herb
huar
i
Av Ru
R Majo
Av Farq
LIma
Arajo
400 m
0.2 miles
T H E N O R T H R i o B r a n c o 397
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GETTING TO BOLIVIA
Before leaving, get an exit stamp from the
Polica Federal (Av Presidente Dutra; h8am10pm). When walking toward the river turn
right onto Dutra. Passenger launches to
Guayaramern (US$1.50, five minutes) depart from the port at the base of Av 15 de
Novembro roughly every 15 minutes from
7am to 6pm. From 6pm to 7am departures
require a minimum of 10 passengers. For
information on travel in the opposite direction, see p255.
Acre is a remote jungle state known for wanton environmental destruction, rampant
high-level crime and corruption, violent land
struggles and drug smuggling. Despite this,
its riverfront capital Rio Branco is a pleasant
enough, and relatively developed, place to
pass through.
Viarena (Rua Rui Barbosa 507; per hr US$1.50) offers
internet access. Major banks are on Praa
Eurico Dutra.
The Museu da Borracha (Rubber Museum; Av Cear
1441; admission free; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri) has good
displays on rubber tapping, Indian artifacts,
and the local Santo Daime cult, centered
around the hallucinogenic drink ayahuasca.
Chal Hotel (%2332-2055; Rua Palmeiral 334; s/d
US$15/22.50; a) has friendly staff and decent
rooms, just outside the bus station. The room
quality is a little rough around the edges at Afa
Hotel (%3224-1396; Rua Franco Ribeiro 109; s/d US$15/20;
a), but it is clean, friendly and located on a
quiet block. Rooms are in great shape at the
sterile Hotel e Churrascaria Tringulo (%32240600/3529; Rua Floriano Peixoto 893; s/d US$17.50/30; a)
XAPURI
%0xx68 / pop 6200
BRASILIA
%0xx68 / pop 10,500
BRAZIL
RIO BRANCO
398 B R A Z I L D I R E C T O R Y A c c o m m o d a t i o n s
www.lonelyplanet.com
BRAZIL
Before leaving Brazil, get an exit stamp from the Polcia Federal in Brasilias neighboring town
Epitciolndia. Ask to be dropped there on your way into town.
For Bolivia, take a taxi (US$3.50) or mototaxi (US$1) from the Polcia Federal over either Epitciolndias or Brasilias international bridge. The fare includes a stop at Bolivian immigration and
onward travel to a hotel or bus station. Cobija has several places to stay, an airport (two, in fact)
and early morning bus connections to Riberalta, Bolivia and Guayaramern, Bolivia.
For Peru, get an exit stamp in Epitciolndia, catch a bus to Assis, Brasil (US$3.50, 1 hours,
three daily) and cross the Rio Acre to Iapari (Peru). Assis has better accommodations than Iapari
if you need to spend the night.
For travel from Peru to Brazil, see p928.
Hotels
Brazil has the lavish, the shabby and everything in between. Prices here are among South
Americas highest, but you can still find good
deals.
At the low end, US$10/16 for very basic
single/double quartos is possible in nonurban
guesthouses. Better rooms with private bathrooms start at about US$20/30 for single/
double and substantially more in major cities like Rio.
Always ask for prices, as theyre often much
lower than posted prices. Also, it never hurts
to ask Tem desconto? (Is there a discount?),
which might net a savings between US$3 a
night and 30%. Prices typically rise by 30%
during high seasons. Hotels in businessoriented cities such as So Paulo and Curitiba
readily give discounts on weekends.
Camping
Pousadas
A pousada typically means a small familyowned guesthouse, though some hotels call
themselves pousadas to improve their charm
quotient. Rustic pousadas can cost as little as
US$10/20 per single/double and as much as
US$160 for a double room with breakfast.
Hostels
ACTIVITIES
Youth hostels are called albergues da juventude. The HI-affiliated Federao Brasileira dos
Albergues da Juventude (www.hostel.org.br) has over
BRAZIL DIRECTORY
ACCOMMODATIONS
www.lonelyplanet.com
Surfing
Brazil has some choice surf spots. The best
surfing beaches are in the South and Southeast: Saquarema (p299), Ilha de Santa Catarina (p320), So Francisco do Sul, Ilha do
Mel (p319), Bzios (p301) and Rio de Janeiro
(p280). In the Northeast, Itacar (p349), Praia
da Pipa (p366) and Fernando de Noronha are
the major surf spots. The waves are best in the
Brazilian winter (June to August).
BOOKS
Lonely Planets Brazil, Rio de Janeiro and
(in French) Brsil guides have all the information needed for travelers making a more
in-depth exploration of the country. Lonely
Planet also publishes an excellent Brazilian
phrasebook.
Quatro Rodas: Viajar Bem e Barato, available for US$18 at most Brazilian newsstands
and bookstores, has detailed listings of inexpensive accommodations and restaurants
all over the country, plus some information
on sights.
Travelers Tales Brazil, edited by Scott Doggett and Annette Haddad, is a fine anthology of travel adventures with good portraits
of life in Brazil. One of the great classics of
travel writing is Peter Flemings Brazilian
Adventure, a hilarious account of an expedition into Mato Grosso in the 1930s. Claude
Levi-Strauss Tristes Tropiques (1955) was
an anthropological milestone for its study of
Indian peoples in the Brazilian interior.
Several worthwhile books on history are
A Concise History of Brazil by Boris Fausto
and Brazil: Five Centuries of Change by Thomas Skidmore. The story behind Euclides da
Cunhas masterly Rebellion in the Backlands
(which describes the Canudos rebellion) is
told by Mrio Vargas Llosa in his entertaining
novel The War of the End of the World. Jorge
Amado, Brazils best novelist, wrote many
wonderful books, including Gabriela, Clove
and Cinnamon.
The Brazilians, by Joseph A Page, is a fascinating portrait of the country and its people.
For a well-illustrated, accessible introduction
to Brazilian popular music, get The Brazilian Sound by Chris McGowan and Ricardo
Pessanha. Futebol: The Brazilian Way gives
insight into the culture behind Brazils national addiction.
Sy Montgomerys Journey of the Pink
Dolphins recounts her experiences studying
these elusive Amazonian creatures. Tales of
a Shamans Apprentice by Mark Plotkin relates his mystical encounters in the Amazon
with some of the worlds greatest healers. In
Samba, Alma Guillermoprieto gives an insightful account of joining one of Rios samba
schools.
BUSINESS HOURS
Most shops and government services (including post offices) are open 9am to 6pm Monday
to Friday and 9am to 1pm Saturday. Banks are
generally open 9am or 10am to 2pm or 3pm.
Most restaurants open from noon to 3pm and
6pm to 10pm; those open for breakfast serve
from around 8am to 10:30am. Bars typically
open from 7pm to 2am, staying open until
4am on weekends.
BRAZIL
B R A Z I L D I R E C T O R Y B o o k s 399
400 B R A Z I L D I R E C T O R Y C l i m a t e
BRAZIL
CLIMATE
Most of Brazil experiences only moderate
temperature changes throughout the year,
though southern states like Ro Grande do
Sul have more extreme seasonal changes like
those in Europe and the US.
During the summer, which runs from December to February (school holidays coinciding), Rio and the Northeast have temperatures
in the high 30s. The rest of the year temperatures are generally in the mid-20s to low
30s. The south has wider temperature variations, ranging from 15C in the winter (June
through August) to 35C in the summer.
The Amazon region rarely gets hotter than
27C, but it is humid there, with considerable
rainfall over tropical Amazonia. In some parts
of the North, December to March is considered winter, since thats the rainiest season.
Owing to generally temperate weather yearround, theres no bad time to visit Brazil. But
unless you have your heart set on attending
Carnaval, you may want to avoid the summer
crowds (and heat), and visit from April to
November. Treks into the Amazon and the
Pantanal are best then especially from June
to August, when its drier.
For more information and climate charts
see p1062.
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DRIVERS LICENSE
The legal driving age in Brazil is 18. Most
foreign licenses are legally valid in Brazil, but
we recommend obtaining an International
Drivers Licence, as the police you are likely
to encounter as a foreign driver dont always
know the law.
ELECTRICITY
Electrical current is not standardized in Brazil
and can be almost anywhere between 110V
and 220V. Carry a converter and use a surge
protector with electrical equipment.
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B R A Z I L D I R E C T O R Y Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s 401
BRAZIL
Level 9, Wellington 1)
402 B R A Z I L D I R E C T O R Y F o o d & D r i n k
BRAZIL
Brazilian Cuisine
Brazilian restaurants serve huge portions,
and many plates are designed for two. Its
hard to go hungry, even on a modest budget.
The basic Brazilian diet revolves around arroz
(white rice), feijo (black beans) and farinha
(flour from the root of manioc or cassava).
The typical Brazilian meal, called prato feito
(set meal, often abbreviated pf) or refeio,
consists of these ingredients plus either meat,
chicken or fish and costs US$3 to US$6 in
most eateries.
Another good option are por quilo (perkilogram) lunch buffets. Here, you pay by the
weight of what you serve yourself: typically
around US$12 per kilogram, with a big plateful weighing around half a kilo. Per-kilo places
are good for vegetarians too. The fixed-price
rodzio is another deal, and most churrascarias
(meat BBQ restaurants) offer rodzio dining,
where they bring endless skewers of different
meat to your table.
In some restaurants frequented by tourists,
overcharging and shortchanging are almost
standard procedure. Check over your bill
carefully.
There are regional differences in Brazilian
cuisine. The comida baiana of the northeastern coast has a distinct African flavor, using
peppers, spices and the potent oil of the dend
palm tree. Both the Pantanal and the Amazon
region have some tasty varieties of fish. Rio
Grande do Suls comida gacha features much
meat. Common Brazilian dishes include the
following:
aa (asaee) an Amazonian fruit with a berrylike taste
and deep purple color; frozen and ground up, it makes
a great, sorbetlike dish to which you can add granola,
ginseng, honey etc
acaraj (akarazhe) baianas (Bahian women) traditionally sell this on street corners throughout Bahia;
its made from peeled brown beans, mashed in salt and
onions, and then fried in dend (palm) oil; inside is vatap,
dried shrimp, pepper and tomato sauce
barreado (barreado) a mixture of meats and spices
cooked in a clay pot for 24 hours, its served with banana
and farofa; its the state dish of Paran
bob de camaro (bobo de kamarowng) manioc
paste cooked and flavored with dried shrimp, coconut milk
and cashews
caldeirada (kowdayrada) stew with big chunks of
fish, onions and tomato
carne do sol (karne de sol) tasty salted beef, grilled
and served with beans, rice and vegetables
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caruru (karooroo) one of the most popular AfroBrazilian dishes, this is prepared from okra or other
vegetables cooked in water, plus onions, salt, shrimp,
malagueta peppers, dend oil and fish
casquinha de carangueijo/siri (kaskeenya de ka-rangge-zho/seeree) stuffed crab, prepared with manioc flour
cozido (kozeedo) a stew usually made with many vegetables (eg potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots and manioc)
dourado (doraado) scrumptious catfish found
throughout Brazil.
farofa (farofa) manioc flour gently toasted and mixed
with bits of onion or bacon; its a common condiment
feijoada (fayzhoada) Brazils national dish, this pork
stew is served with rice and a bowl of beans, and is traditionally eaten for Saturday lunch. It goes well with caipirinhas
frango a passarinho (franggo a pasareenyo) small
chunks of crisp fried chicken make a delicious tira-gosto
(appetizer or snack)
moqueca (mokeka) stew flavored with dend oil and
coconut milk, often with peppers and onions; the word
also refers to a style of covered clay-pot cooking from
Bahia: fish, shrimp, oyster, crab or a combination can all be
done moqueca-style
pato no tucupi (pato no tookoopee) very popular in
Par, this roast duck dish is flavored with garlic and cooked
in the tucupi sauce made from the manioc juice and jambu,
a local vegetable
peixada (payshada) fish cooked in broth with
vegetables and eggs
peixe a delcia (payshe a deleesya) broiled or grilled
fish, usually prepared with bananas and coconut milk
prato de vero (prato de verowng) literally summer
plate, basically a fruit salad served at many juice bars in Rio
sanduiche (sangdooeeshe) covers a multitude of
inexpensive bites from the X-tudo (hamburger with everything) to misto quente (toasted ham-and-cheese sandwich);
sanduiches are a mainstay of lanchonetes (snack bars)
tacac (takaka) Indian dish made of dried shrimp
cooked with pepper, jambu, manioc and much more
tucunar (too ka naray) tender, tasty Amazonian fish
tutu mineira (tootoo a meenayra) black-bean
feijoada, often served with couve (a type of kale). Typical
of Minas Gerais
vatap (vatapa) perhaps the most famous Brazilian
dish of African origin, a seafood dish with a thick sauce
made from manioc paste, coconut and dend oil.
Drinks
The incredible variety of Brazilian fruits
makes for some divine sucos (juices). Every
town has plenty of juice bars, offering 30 or
40 different varieties at around US$1.50 for a
good-sized glass.
Cafezinho (coffee), as typically drunk in
Brazil, is strong, hot and sweet, usually served
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B R A Z I L D I R E C T O R Y G a y & Le s b i a n T r a v e l e r s 403
HEALTH
A yellow-fever vaccination certificate is required for travelers who, within three months
of arriving in Brazil (or applying for a Brazilian
visa), have been in Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador,
French Guiana, Peru, Venezuela or any of about
a dozen African countries. The list of countries
can vary, so check with a Brazilian consulate. At
most Brazilian borders and major airports there
are vaccination posts where you can have the jab
(free for foreigners) and get the certificate immediately. But its wise to do this in advance.
Malaria is a concern in certain areas of the
Amazon. Travelers should take an appropriate
malaria preventative, such as mefloquine or
doxycycline (chloroquine is inadequate here),
HOLIDAYS
Brazils high season runs from December until
Carnaval (usually February). Low season runs
from March to November.
Ano Novo (New Years Day) January 1
Carnaval (Friday to Tuesday preceding Ash Wednesday)
February/March. Carnaval celebrations usually start well
before the official holiday.
Paixo & Pscoa (Good Friday & Easter Sunday) Dates
vary, March/April
Tiradentes (Tiradentes Day) April 21
Dia do Trabalho (May Day/Labor Day) May 1
Corpus Christi (60 days after Easter) Sunday May/June
Dia da Independncia (Independence Day)
September 7
Dia da Nossa Senhora de Aparecida (Day of Our Lady
of Aparecida) October 12
Finados (All Souls Day) November 2
Proclamao da Repblica (Proclamation of the
Republic Day) November 15
Natal (Christmas Day) December 25
INTERNET ACCESS
Internet cafs are widespread in Brazil.
Charges are about US$2 to US$3 an hour.
INTERNET RESOURCES
Brazil Max (www.brazilmax.com) This nicely designed
site has features on travel, culture and society in Brazil;
decent selection of articles and links.
Brazilian embassy in London (www.brazil.org.uk)
Has much practical info for tourists and links to local tourism sites in Brazil.
Brazzil (www.brazzil.com) Features in-depth articles on
the countrys politics, economy, literature, arts and culture.
Terra (www.terra.com.br/turismo in Portuguese)
Portuguese-language travel site with up-to-date info on
entertainment, nightlife and dining options in dozens of
cities around Brazil.
BRAZIL
Although gay characters have begun appearing on novelas (soap operas), mainstream
Brazil is still homophobic. Machismo dominates and being out is difficult here. Rio has
the best gay scene, though youll find good
gay bars in Salvador, So Paulo and elsewhere.
These are all-welcome affairs attended by GLS
(Gays, Lesbians e Simpatizantes) crowds of
straights and gays. An excellent gay travel and
excursions agency is G Brazil (%0xx21-2247-4431;
www.gbrazil.com; Rua Farme de Amoedo 76, No 303). Useful websites for gay and lesbian travelers are
www.riogayguide.com and www.pridelinks
.com/Regional/Brazil.
There is no law against homosexuality in
Brazil. The age of consent is 18 years, the same
as for heterosexuals.
404 B R A Z I L D I R E C T O R Y L a n g u a g e
LANGUAGE
Portuguese is one of the worlds top 10 most
spoken languages. Brazilian Portuguese has
a few differences from European Portuguese,
but speakers can understand one another.
This is not the case with Spanish. If you can
speak Spanish, youll be able to read some
Portuguese, but comprehending others is difficult. Some Brazilians also find it a tad offensive when foreigners arrive speaking Spanish
and expecting to be understood.
BRAZIL
LEGAL MATTERS
Be wary of (but of course respectful to) Brazilian police. Some allegedly plant drugs and
sting gringos for bribes.
Stiff penalties are in force for use and possession of drugs; the police dont share most
Brazilians tolerant attitude toward marijuana.
Police checkpoints along the highways stop
cars at random. Police along the coastal drive
between So Paulo and Bzios are notorious
for hassling young people and foreigners.
Border areas are also dangerous.
A large amount of cocaine is smuggled out
of Bolivia and Peru through Brazil. If youre
entering Brazil from one of the Andean countries and have been chewing coca leaves, be
careful to clean out your pack first.
MAPS
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TV
Brazilian TV consists mostly of game shows,
football matches, bad American films dubbed
into Portuguese and the universally watched
novelas (soap operas). Globo is the major Brazilian network. Better hotels have cable TV with
CNN and other English-language programs.
MONEY
Brazils currency is the real (pronounced
hay-ow; often written R$); the plural is reais
(pronounced hay-ice). One real is made up
of 100 centavos. Banknotes come in different colors and have a different animal on the
back in denominations of 1 (sapphire-spangled
emerald hummingbird), 2 (hawksbill turtle),
5 (great egret), 10 (greenwing macaw), 20
(golden lion tamarin), 50 (jaguar) and 100
(dusky grouper).
ATMs
MEDIA
Credit Cards
Bargaining
A little bargaining for hotel rooms is standard.
On unmetered cab rides, arrange the fare
before departing.
B R A Z I L D I R E C T O R Y P o s t 405
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Exchanging Money
Cash and travelers checks, in US dollars, can
be exchanged in casas de cambio (exchange
offices) or banks, which give better exchange
rates but are much slower (Banco do Brasil
charges US$20 commission for every travelers check transaction). Youll usually get a
1% or 2% better exchange rate for cash than
for travelers checks.
Exchange rates at press time included the
following:
Unit
Australia
Canada
euro zone
Japan
New Zealand
United Kingdom
United States
A$1
C$1
1
100
NZ$1
UK1
US$1
R$ (reais)
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
1.61
1.9
2.7
1.8
1.4
4
2.2
Travelers Checks
Travelers checks can be exchanged at major
banks and exchange offices. The rates are generally better at banks except for the Banco
do Brasil, which charges a US$20 commission
for every travelers check transaction though
the slower, bureaucratic procedures make it
a hassle. Casas de cmbio (exchange houses)
are speedy and reliable, though the rates are
lower. The most widely recognized travelers
check in Brazil is American Express.
POST
A postcard or letter weighing up to 20g costs
around US$1 to foreign destinations. Airmail
letters to the USA and Europe arrive in one
to two weeks. The posta-restante system functions reasonably well. Post offices hold mail
for 30 days.
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL
Most places youll go in Brazil welcome tourism, but be sensitive to local ways of doing
things.
SHOPPING
CDs, local crafts (indigenous and otherwise)
and artwork all make good souvenirs.
Air-conditioned shopping malls (shoppings) feature in every self-respecting city and
often contain decent music stores. Browsing
the many markets and small streetside stalls
yields, for better or worse, less predictable results. Street stalls sell bootleg CDs for around
US$4, against about US$10 to US$20 for the
official releases in stores.
For genuine Indian arts and crafts, have
a look in the Artndia stores of Funai (the
government Indian agency) and museum gift
shops.
Artisans in the northeast produce a rich
assortment of artistic items. Salvador and
nearby Cachoeira are most notable for their
rough-hewn wood sculptures. Cear specializes in fine lace. The interior of Pernambuco,
in particular Caruaru, is famous for wildly
imaginative ceramic figurines.
Candombl stores are a good source of
curios, ranging from magical incense guaranteed to increase sexual allure, wisdom and
health, to amulets and ceramic figurines of
Afro-Brazilian gods.
STUDYING
Its easy but pricey to arrange Portuguese
classes through branches of the IBEU (Instituto Brasil Estados Unidos), where Brazilians go to learn English. There will be one
in every large city. For more on language
schools, try the National Registration Center
for Study Abroad (www.nrcsa.com) or the website
www.onestoplanguage.net.
TELEPHONE
Domestic Calls
You can make domestic calls from normal
card-pay telephones on the street and in telephone offices. The cards cost around US$3
per 30 units from vendors, newsstands and
BRAZIL
Country
BRAZIL
406 B R A Z I L D I R E C T O R Y T o i l e t s
International Calls
Brazils country code is %55. When calling
internationally to Brazil, omit the initial 0xx
of the area code.
International calls from Brazil cost at least
US$1 a minute to the USA or Canada and
US$2 a minute to Europe or Australia (20%
less between 8pm and 6am daily and all day
Sunday).
The regular card-pay telephones found on
the streets are of little use for international
calls unless you have an international calling
card or are calling collect. Most pay telephones
are restricted to domestic calls, and even if
they arent, a 30-unit Brazilian phonecard may
last less than a minute internationally.
Without an international calling card, your
best option is to find a call center or telephone
office, where you pay in cash after you finish
talking. Many internet cafs now offer phone
services. Calls from a hotel usually cost much
more.
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Cell Phones
Celular (mobile) phones have eight-digit
numbers starting with a 9, and calls to them
run through your phonecard units much
faster than calls to regular numbers. Mobiles
have city codes like normal phone numbers,
and if youre calling from another city you
have to use them.
TOILETS
Public toilets are available at every bus station
and airport; theres usually a small entrance
fee of US50 or so. Elsewhere public toilets are
not common, though Brazilians are generally
nice about letting you use facilities in restaurants and bars. As in other Latin American
countries, toilet paper isnt flushed but placed
in the smelly basket next to the toilet. Few
of the countrys bathrooms are wheelchairaccessible.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Tourist offices in Brazil are nearly all run by
individual states or municipalities, and may
be quite helpful or utterly useless depending
upon whos behind the counter.
Brazilian consulates and embassies can
provide limited tourist information.
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VISAS
Visa Extensions
These are handled by Brazils Polcia Federal, who have offices in the state capitals and
border towns. You must apply before your
entry/exit card or visa lapses, and dont leave
it until the last minute. When you go, dress
nicely! Some Fed stations dont take kindly
to people in shorts. Granting an extension
seems to be pretty automatic, but they may
ask to see a ticket out of the country and proof
of sufficient funds; and sometimes they may
not give you the full 90 days. If you get the
maximum 90-day extension and then leave
the country before the end of that period,
you cannot return until the full 90 days have
elapsed.
Entry/Exit Card
On entering Brazil, all tourists must fill out
a carto de entrada/saida (entry/exit card);
immigration officials keep half, you keep the
other. Dont lose this card! When you leave
VOLUNTEERING
One excellent volunteer organization you
can get involved with is Rio-based Iko Poran
(%0xx21-2205-1365; www.ikoporan.org), which links
the diverse talents of volunteers with needy
organizations. Previous volunteers in Brazil
have worked as dance, music, art and language instructors among other things. Iko
Poran also provides housing for volunteers.
It has plans to create volunteer opportunities
in Salvador, Praia do Forte and Santarem.
The UK-based Task Brasil (www.taskbrasil.org.uk)
is another laudable organization that places
volunteers in Rio. Here, youll have to make
arrangements in advance and pay a fee that
will go toward Task Brasil projects and your
expenses as a volunteer.
The best website for browsing volunteer
opportunities is Action Without Borders (www
.idealist.org).
A little doorknocking can help you find
volunteer work in Brazil. Theres plenty of
need, and many local welfare organizations
will gladly find you some rewarding work.
Ask around at churches and community
centers.
WOMEN TRAVELERS
In the cities of the southeast and South, foreign women without traveling companions
will scarcely be given a sideways glance. In
the more traditional rural areas of the northeast, blonde-haired and light-skinned women,
especially those without male escorts, will
certainly arouse curiosity.
Machismo is less overt in Brazil than in
Spanish-speaking Latin America. Flirtation
is a common form of communication, but
its generally regarded as innocent banter; no
sense of insult, exploitation or serious intent
should be assumed.
Its advisable to adapt what you wear to
local norms. The brevity of Rio beach attire
BRAZIL
B R A Z I L D I R E C T O R Y V i s a s 407
408 B R A Z I L D I R E C T O R Y W o r k i n g
WORKING
Brazil has high unemployment and tourists
are not supposed to take jobs. However, its
not unusual for foreigners to find languageteaching work in the bigger cities, either in
language schools or through private tutoring.
The pay is not great (around US$13 an hour),
but if you can work for three or four days a
week you can live on it.
BRAZIL
generally is not suitable for the streets of interior cities, for instance.
In the event of unwanted pregnancy or
the risk thereof, most pharmacies in Brazil
stock the morning-after pill (a pilula do dia
seguinte), which costs about US$10. Tampons
and other sanitary items are widely available
in most pharmacies, though youll want to
stock up before heading into rural areas.
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