Industrial Attachment Report

ATISH DIPANKAR UNIVERSITY OF SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY
Internship Report On
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT AT FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED
COURSE TITLE COURSE NO : INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT : TE - 410
SUPERVISINNG TEACHER
Md. Maksudul Islam
Course Coordinator Department of Textile Engineering Atish Dipankar University of Science & Technology IN FACTORY Mr. Rashedul Hasnat Executive HRM Department Fakir Apparels limited
PREPARED BY
Mohammad Atik Ullah Bhuiyan ID# 101-150-407 Md. Rezaul Karim ID# 101-090-407 Department of Textile Engineering Atish Dipankar University of Science & Technology
Date of Submission: 11th January, 2014
LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL
Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED
Page 1
January 11, 2014 To, The Supervisor Md. Maksudul Islam Course Coordinator Atish Dipankar University of Science & Technology.
Subject: Submission of Internship report
Dear Sir, It gives me enormous pleasure to submit the internship report on Industrial
Attachment at Fakir Apparels Limited as per the supervisors instruction .I expect

this report to be informative as well as comprehensive.
I demonstrate my best mark of respect and gratitude to you for providing us the opportunity to do our internship. We feel the 8 weeks experience will facilitate us a lot in our future career life. For any further explanations about the report please summon us, we will be gladly available to clarify the ins and outs.
Sincerely Yours
Mohammad Atik Ullah Bhuiyan ID#: 101-150-407 Atish Dipankar University of Science of and Technology
DECLARATION
Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED Page 2
We, hereby declare that this internship report on Industrial Attachment at Fakir
Apparels Limited submitted by us to Fakir Apparels Limited, in partial fulfillment of the

requirement for the degree of B.Sc. in Textile Engineering is an original work. It has not been submitted earlier, either partly or wholly to any other Organization, University or Institution for the award of Degree, Diploma, and Fellowship or other similar titles or prizes and that the work has not been published in any journal or magazine.
Mohammad Atik Ullah Bhuiyan ID# 101-150-407 Md. Rezaul Karim ID# 101-090-407 Department of Textile Engineering AtishDipankar University of Science of and Technology
CERTIFICATE
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This is to certify that the internship report on Industrial Attachment at Fakir
Apparels Limited submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirement for the degree of
Bachelor of Science of Atish Dipankar University of Science and Technology. Mohammad Atik Ullah Bhuiyan ID#101-150-407 and Md. Rezaul Karim ID# 101-090407.Have worked under my supervision and guidance and that no part of this has been submitted for the award of any other Degree, Diploma, Fellowship or other similar titles or prizes and that the work has not been published in any journal or magazine.
Certified
Md. Maksudul Islam Course Coordinator Atish Dipankar University of Science & Technology.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
At first, we would like to express our gratitude to almighty Allah for enabling us the strength and opportunity to complete the report in the schedule time successfully.
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We are deeply indebted to our supervisor Maksudul Islam, Course Coordinator, department of Textile Engineering for his stimulating inspiration, kind guidance, valuable suggestions & sagacious advices during our internship period. His suggestions & guidance have made the report in a good manner.
We express our sincere gratitude to Engr. Kawsar Alam Sikder, General Manager of Fakir Apparels Limited, who has guided us by giving his valuable suggestions. Special thanks to the personnel of knitting section for guiding us. We also express our gratitude to Mr. Mostak Ahmed, Assistant Manager of Quality Lab. We put our special thanks to Jewel sir who has provided us a lot of information and his valuable knowledge & suggestions in dyeing section. We are loaner to Senior Merchandiser Mr. Jitu for his guidance and helps. We are also thankful to other personnel of merchandising section for their helping attitude. We are thankful to the personnel of printing section for their inspiration and helps.
We would like to express our deep sense of gratitude and thanks to Mr. Md. Mohsin Uddin and Mr. Hasnat of HRM department for his kind cooperation and observation, for their guidance, valuable knowledge & suggestions during my internship period. We would like to convey our best regards to all the officials and workers of the Fakir Apparels Limited. We especially like to thank our parents & all of our family members for extending their helping hand at a time when we need it most. We remember all the care and love of our friends who made our every existence more meaningful and worthy. Finally we would like to put special thanks to the authority of Fakir Apparels Limited for allowing us in their organization.
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
The internationally recognized Buyers or clients are looking for those countries for producing their apparel products where different types of mills have established as a one stop source for the global apparel market, satisfy and meet customer's expectation by developing and providing products and services on time, which offer value in terms of Quality, Price, Safety & Environmental impact. And also assure complete compliance with the Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED Page 5
international quality standards and also to provide the employees internationally acceptable working condition/standards. In Bangladesh, there are different types of Textile Industry those are producing high quality textile and apparel product. Fakir Apparels Limited. is one of them. Fakir Apparels Limited. is Composite Knit Garments Manufacturer & Exporter, having all state of the art facilities with the annual turnover US $ 30 Million. They have Different types of knitting, Dyeing, Cutting, Sewing, and Finishing machines supplied by mostly Japan, Taiwan, U.K, USA, China, etc. which are very latest. It has high production where 30 tons of knitted and finished fabrics are produced per day. The production is controlled by technical persons. All of the decision makers of production sector in Fakir Apparels Limited are textile graduates. All the Yarn, Chemicals and dyes use for Knitting, dyeing and finishing are well branded. They produce their product for their buyer and client those are coming from international market like USA,U.K, Sweden, Ireland, France, Germany, Belgium, Spain. They follow all the system for their machines maintenance so production cannot hamper. In this report, we have tried to give some information about Fakir Apparels Limited. And we have observed that Fakir Apparels Limited. Produce high quality fabric and fulfill the special requirements from the different types of buyers by following different internationally recommended standard method.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
S L .No Topic Letter of transmittal Declaration Certificate Acknowledgement Page No I II III IV
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Executive summary
V 1 2-3 4 5 6 6 7 8 9 10 11 11-12 13 13-18 18 19 20 20-21 21-22 22-23 23-24 24-25 26 27-28 29-35 36 37 37
OVER VIEW OF THE FACTORY

General Information of The Factory Certificates Buyers Product Mix Departments Related with Production Supporting Department Plant Location
KNITTING SECTION
Organogram Knitting Raw Material for Knitting Machine List of Knitting Section Specification of Circular Knitting Machine Others Machines in Knitting Section Sequence of Operations in Knitting Section Process flowchart Product Mix Considerable Points to Produce Knitted Fabrics Production Calculation Basic Knitting Elements Different Parts of Knitting Machine Quality Checking Flowcharts Types of Knit Fabric Produce By FAL Knitting Faults
BATCH SECTION
Batching Function of Batch
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Proper batching Criteria Batch Management
38 38 39 40 40-41 41-42 43-44 45 46 47 48-51 52 53 54 54 55-56 57-58 58-60 60 61 62 61-69 70-72 72-73 73-76 77 78 78 78
COLOR LAB
Color Lab Sequence of Operation Spectrophotometer Verivied Cabinet Working Flowchart Lab Dyeing Procedure for Cotton lab dyeing process for levafix ca/ remazol rr/ remazol ultra rgb Lab Dyeing Process For All Dye
DYEING SECTION
Organogram Responsibility of Production Officer Job Description Dyeing machine Capacity Dyeing Machine Specification Raw Material for Dyeing Dyes List Chemical and Auxiliaries List Flowchart for Dyeing Pretreatment and Dyeing Process Main Parts of Dyeing Machines Dyeing Parameter Control Chart Common Dyeing Faults with Their remedies
FINISHING SECTION
Finishing
Objective Of Finishing Types of Finishing
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Organogram Flow Chart of Finishing Section Flow Chart for Peach finish Slitting Machine Stenter Machine Open Compactor Squeezer Dryer Tube Compactor
79 80 80-81 81-83 83-84 85 86 87 88-89 90 91-92 93 93 93 93 94 94-95 95 95 96 96 97
QUALITY LAB
Laboratory Machine with Its Specification Yarn count test. Evenness test of yarn. Fabric GSM tests. TPI test. Calculation of shrinkage & Twist % of garments. PH test Pilling test of fabric. Formaldehyde test ISO 141841 JISA JISB Color fastness to Rubbing. Color fastness to Washing. Color fastness to perspiration.
GARMENTS CUTTING SECTION

Machine Specification Standard Operating Procedure of Cutting Section
98 98 99-100
PRINTING SECTION
General Overview Types of printing
101 102 102-103 Page 9
Machine Brand Flowchart of printing Section Expose Room Print wise Curing Common Print Defects Major Causes of Print Defects
103 104-106 106 107 107 107-108 109 110 110 110-111 111-113 113 114-116 117 117-118 118 118
MERCHANDISING SECTION
Introduction Need of Merchandiser Responsibility of Merchandiser Main Procedures of Merchandisers Chronological Process of Merchandising Sequence of Sample Trims Communication in International Business The Information Normally Get About an Order How a merchandiser meet buyers requirements Methods of purchasing raw materials Procedures of imported goods How does the accepted order is passed on the floor How a merchandiser track his/her production.
118 119 119
119 120
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING SECTION

Introduction Activities of IE Objectives of IE Function of an Industrial Engineer Techniques of IE
121 121 121 121 122 Page 10
IE Job Profile Organogram of IE Department in FAL IE Tools Some Terms and Definition Used in IE Some Formula
122-123 124 124 124-126 127 128
QUALITY ASSURANCE SECTION

QA system Quality Management System Online Quality Control Offline Quality Control
129 129 129-131 131 132 133 133 134 134 135 136 137 137 137 137-138 138 139 139 140 141 141
MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
Maintenance Types of Maintenance Flowchart of Maintenance Maintenance Tools Maintenance Procedure Of Different Machine
UTILITY SERVICE
Utility Service Electricity Compressed Air Water Treatment Plant Method of Water Softening Sequence of Water Treatment plant Measurement Of Water Hardness
STORE AND INVENTORY

Inventory Causes of Maintain Inventory
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Inventory Management for Raw Material
141-142 143 144 144 144
COST ANALYSIS
Costing system Price of Different Operation Remarks
MARKETING STRATEGY
Marketing Information Marketing Strategy Major buyer Exported Country
145 146 146 146 146 147 148
CONCLUSION BIBLIOGRAPHY
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GENERAL INFORMATION OF THE FACTORY
Name of the Factory Type Year of Establishment Factory location
: FakirApparels Limited. : 100% Export oriented composite knitwear industry. : 1998. : A-127-131, B-501-503, Bscic I/AEnayetnagar. Shashongao, Fatullah. Narayangonj-1400, Bangladesh.
Head office
: 89, Motijheel, Lucky Chamber. Room no, 77-79, Dhaka-1000. : 700, 000 square feet : 7500 : 140,000 pcs per day :20 tons per day. : 30 tons per day. : 90. : 2500 nos. : 4 points.
Total Space Employee
Production capacity (Garments) Production Capacity (Knitting) Production Capacity (Dyeing) Sewing line Sewing Machine used Final inspection System
Factory Garments Quality Product quality is assured in every step of operation from sourcing to packing. Weve Independent Audit team to monitor the whole quality and inspection procedure and reporting directly to TOP management. Fabric inspection : 4 point fabric inspection method Inline Inspection : Traffic light system (7pcs) Mid line /Pre-final : AQL 1.5 90 degree needle/metal detection arrangement based on customer requirement.
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Product : All types of knit wears, specially Basic & Fancy T-Shirt for all ranges, Polo Shirt, Night wear, Shorts , KIDS items, Tank Top etc.

Wide range of fabrics like single Jersey, Rib, Interlock, etc.. Grey Fabric, Spandex, Dyed fabric and Printed fabric Fabric dia ranging from 14 to 32 Customer specified GSM Dyed yarns for knitting Production of knitted fabrics 20000 kgs per day Brand new circular knitting machine from Mayer &Cie (Germany) are installed in our factory. We can produce the following types of knitted fabrics:

Single Jersey Pique (Lacoste) Double thread fleece Selanik Interlock Rib and others.
All knitted fabrics can be produced with addition of spandex (Lycra) up to 60-70% percent. Production Planning: Planning sits at the heart of any business, Using Modern UK based Production Planning software FASTREACT for determining strategic marketing plan, Production Planning / Critical Path, Delivery control. Our on time delivery performance from Jan to Feb/13 is 98.5%, target for 100% by the end of year 2013. Annual turnover : 75 million USD.
Vision: To build true marketing led enterprise with motivated workforce, innovative vision & more value added product portfolio, customer satisfaction & understanding of global market. To be a world-class quality apparels manufacturer by satisfying social, ethical and environmental commitment. To be one of the best leading composite mill in the Bangladesh. Mission Execution of Lean manufacturing system in manufacturing processes Corporate practice in management system Be maximum flexible and transparent with our valued customers and suppliers
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CERTIFICATES
ISO 9001:2000 certified.
Control Union
BSCI
OEKO-TEX certified .
Wrap Gold Certificate
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BUYERS
H & M.
Tom Tailor.
Ahlense. S.Oliver.
. C&A etc.
Primark.
Esprit
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PRODUCT MIX 100% cotton. CVC (Chief value of cotton). PC/TC (The more % of polyester). Mlange1. Grey mlange 2. Anthra mlange 3. Ecro mlange 4. Camel mlange : 10% viscose + 90% cotton. : 15% viscose + 85% cotton. : > 50% viscose. : 2% viscose + 98% cotton. : 1% viscose.
DEPARTMENTS RELATED WITH PRODUCTION

1. Yarn store. 2. Knitting section. 3. Raw fabric store & inspection section. 4. Batching. 5. Chemical Store. 6. Color lab section. 7. Dyeing Section. 8. Finishing section.
9. Quality control Section 10. Maintenance 11. Water Treatment plant
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SUPPORTING DEPARTMENT:
1. Procurement 2. IE 3. Medical 4. Merchandising 5. Administration 6. Marketing 7. Security 8. IT 9. HRD 10. Finance & accounting.
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PLANT LOCATION
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KNITTING SECTION
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ORGANOGRAM OF KNITTING SECTION:
Knitting Manger Assistant knitting manger Senior Production Officer Production officer
Asst. Production officer Junior Production Officer Suppervisor
Operator
Helper
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KNITTING
Knitting is the process of creating fabric by the intermeshing of loops of yarn. Each row of such loops hanging from the one immediately preceding it. There are two types of knitted fabric 1. Warp knitted fabric: Each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a different thread and the number of threads used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the number of loops in a horizontal row.
2. Weft knitted fabric: A horizontal row of loops can be made using one thread and the thread runs in horizontal direction.
Raw Material for Knitting

The raw material for knitting is the yarn. Different types of yarn of wide range of count are used. In yarn store section we had the chance to know about different yarns of different count used in Fakir Apparels Limited. We also have known different yarn manufacturer/suppliers name for this knitting section i.e. sources of yarn. Both carded and combed yarn is used for knitting. Cotton 24S, 26s,30S, 32S,34S,40S Polyester 75D, lO0D Spandex yarn 20D,40D, 70D Grey Mlange (C 24S,26S Ecru Mlange (C-85% V-15%) 24S,26S,28S Anthra Mlange (C-65% V-35%) 24S,26S,28S PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton)24S,26S,28S,30S CVC 24S,26S,28S,30S
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KNITTING SECTION IS DIVIDED IN FOUR SECTIONS: 1. 2. 3. 4. I. Inspection section Flat knitting section Circular Knitting section Store section
Cloth Inspection Section:
In cloth inspection section three machines are available. Specification of those machines is given below Type Manufacturer name County Model No. 2. Flat Knitting Section: Generally collar, cuff of knitted garments is produced in this section. In this section there are 25 flat knitting machines. All of them are same type and also have same specification. The specification of all machines is given below: Type Manufacturer name Country Model No. Gauge Automatic Flat knitting machine Precision Fukuhara Works Ltd. Japan \l-100 G14 Cloth Inspection Machine Uzu fabric Inspection Thailand UZ 900.31
3. Circular Knitting Section: This section contains 72 circular knitting machines. Circular knitting machines are of different types, made by different manufacturer and also have different specifications. In this section body fabric for knitted garments is produced. The different specifications of different machines are given one after another 4. Store section: In this section knitted fabric and yarns are stored.
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MACHINE LIST OF KNITTING SECTION IN FAL:

Machine name Circular Knitting(Single jersey) Machine Circular Knitting(Rib) Machine Engineering Stripe Machine V-bed Knitting Machine Grey Fabric Inspection Machine Machine Quantity 50 21 02 12 03
SPECIFICATION OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE

Machine no: A1 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 40; 24G No of Feeder: 120 No of needle: 3000 Machine no: A3 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 34; 24G No of Feeder: 102 No of needle: 2544 Machine no: A5 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 38; 24G No of Feeder: 114 No of needle: 2880 Machine no: A7 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 36; 24G No of Feeder: 108 No of needle: 2712 Machine no: A9 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 30; 24G No of Feeder: 90 Machine no: A2 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 36; 24G No of Feeder: 108 No of needle: 2712 Machine no: A4 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 32; 24G No of Feeder: 96 No of needle: 2400 Machine no: A6 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 38; 24G No of Feeder: 114 No of needle: 2880 Machine no: A8 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 32; 24G No of Feeder: 96 No of needle: 2400 Machine no: A10 Machine type: Double Jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD-2X4) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 44; 18G No of Feeder: 88 Page 25
No of needle: 2256 Machine no: A11 Machine type: Double Jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD-2X4) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 42; 18G No of Feeder: 84 No of needle: 2376 Machine no: A13 Machine type: Double Jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD-2X4) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 38; 18G No of Feeder: 76 No of needle: 2136 Machine no: A15 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 36; 24G No of Feeder: 108 No of needle: 2712 Machine no: B1 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-2) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 26; 24G No of Feeder: 78 No of needle: 1968 Machine no: B3 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 23; 24G No of Feeder: 84 No of needle: 2112 Machine no: B5 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 32; 24G No of Feeder: 96 No of needle: 2256 Machine no: B7 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 32; 24G
No of needle: 2484 Machine no: A12 Machine type: Double Jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD-2X4) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 40; 18G No of Feeder: 80 No of needle: 2256 Machine no: A14 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 36; 24G No of Feeder: 108 No of needle: 2712 Machine no: A16 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 36; 24G No of Feeder: 108 No of needle: 2712 Machine no: B2 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-2) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 28; 24G No of Feeder: 84 No of needle: 2112 Machine no: B4 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 30; 24G No of Feeder: 96 No of needle: 2256 Machine no: B6 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 32; 24G No of Feeder: 96 No of needle: 2400 Machine no: B8 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 30; 24G Page 26
No of Feeder: 96 No of needle: 2400 Machine no: B9 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 32; 24G No of Feeder: 96 No of needle: 2400 Machine no: B11 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara (MXC-DF3D) Origin: Japan Machine dia &Gauge: 34; 20G No of Feeder: 102 No of needle: 2136 Machine no: B13 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-32-4) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 32; 24G No of Feeder: 96 No of needle: 2400 Machine no: B15 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS34-4) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 34; 24G No of Feeder: 102 No of needle: 2563 Machine no: B17 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS38-4) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 38; 24G No of Feeder: 114 No of needle: 2880 Machine no: B19 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 38; 24G No of Feeder: 114 No of needle: 2880 Machine no: B21 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 90 No of needle: 2256 Machine no: B10 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara (MXC-DF3D) Origin: Japan Machine dia &Gauge: 34; 20G No of Feeder: 102 No of needle: 2136 Machine no: B12 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara (MXC-DF3D) Origin: Japan Machine dia &Gauge: 36; 20G No of Feeder: 108 No of needle: 2265 Machine no: B14 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C2) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 26; 24G No of Feeder: 76 No of needle: 1968 Machine no: B16 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-36-4) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 36; 24G No of Feeder: 108 No of needle: 2712 Machine no: B18 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 38; 24G No of Feeder: 114 No of needle: 2880 Machine no: B20 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 38; 24G No of Feeder: 114 No of needle: 2880 Machine no: B22 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Page 27
Machine dia &Gauge: 32; 24G No of Feeder: 96 No of needle: 2400 Machine no: B23 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 30; 24G No of Feeder: 90 No of needle: 2256 Machine no: B25 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara (MXC-DF3D) Origin: Japan Machine dia &Gauge: 30; 20G No of Feeder: 90 No of needle: 1884 Machine no: B27 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 40; 24G No of Feeder: 120 No of needle: 3000 Machine no: B29 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-2) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 42; 24G No of Feeder: 126 No of needle: 3168 Machine no: B31 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 32; 24G No of Feeder: 102 No of needle: 2544 Machine no: B33 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 34; 24G No of Feeder: 102 No of needle: 2544 Machine no: B35 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C)
Machine dia &Gauge: 32; 24G No of Feeder: 96 No of needle: 2400 Machine no: B24 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Mayer & Cie Origin: Germany Machine dia &Gauge: 30; 24G No of Feeder: 96 No of needle: 2268 Machine no: B26 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara (MXC-DF3D) Origin: Japan Machine dia &Gauge: 30; 20G No of Feeder: 90 No of needle: 1884 Machine no: B28 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 40; 24G No of Feeder: 120 No of needle: 3000 Machine no: B30 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-2) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 44; 24G No of Feeder: 132 No of needle: 3312 Machine no: B32 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 34; 24G No of Feeder: 102 No of needle: 2544 Machine no: B34 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 34; 24G No of Feeder: 102 No of needle: 2544 Machine no: B36 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C) Page 28
Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 34; 24G No of Feeder: 102 No of needle: 2544 Machine no: B37 Machine type: RIB Brand: Maye & Cie (D4-2.2) Origin: Germany Machine dia &Gauge: 36; 18G No of Feeder: 72 No of needle: 1680 Machine no: C1 type: RIB Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD N1) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 38; 18G No of Feeder: 76 No of needle: 2136 Machine no: C3 Machine type: RIB Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 40; 18G No of Feeder: 80 No of needle: 2256 Machine no: C5 Machine type: RIB Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD 2X4) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 32; 18G No of Feeder: 64 No of needle: 1800 Machine no: C7 Machine type: RIB Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD 2X4) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 36; 18G No of Feeder: 72 No of needle: 2040 Machine no: C9 Machine type: RIB Brand: Jiunn Long (JLR 36) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 36; 16G No of Feeder: 72 No of needle: 1800 Machine no: C11 Machine type: RIB
Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 36; 24G No of Feeder: 108 No of needle: 2712
Machine
Machine no: C2 Machine type: RIB Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD N1) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 38; 18G No of Feeder: 76 No of needle: 2136 Machine no: C4 Machine type: RIB Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD 2X2) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 42; 18G No of Feeder: 84 No of needle: 2376 Machine no: C6 Machine type: RIB Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD N1) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 32; 18G No of Feeder: 64 No of needle: 1800 Machine no: C8 Machine type: RIB Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD 2X4) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 38; 24G No of Feeder: 72 No of needle: 2880 Machine no: C10 Machine type: RIB Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD36- 2X4) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 36; 24G No of Feeder: 72 No of needle: 2712 Machine no: C12 Machine type: RIB Page 29
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD N1) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 34; 18G No of Feeder: 68 No of needle: 1920 Machine no: C13 Machine type: RIB Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD 2X4) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 34; 18G No of Feeder: 68 No of needle: 1920 Machine no: C15 Machine type: RIB Brand: Jiunn Long (JLR N1) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 32; 18G No of Feeder: 64 No of needle: 1800 Machine no: C17 Machine type: RIB Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD N1) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 34; 18G No of Feeder: 68 No of needle: 1920 Machine no: C19 Machine type: Single jersey AUTO STRIPPER Brand: FUKUHARA Origin: Japan(VFY6) Machine dia &Gauge: 34; 18G No of Feeder: 84 No of needle: 2544
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD 2X2) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 44; 18G No of Feeder: 88 No of needle: 2484 Machine no: C14 Machine type: RIB Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD 2X4) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 30; 18G No of Feeder: 60 No of needle: 1704 Machine no: C16 Machine type: RIB Brand: Jiunn Long (JLR34- 2X4) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 34; 16G No of Feeder: 72 No of needle: 2544 Machine no: C18 Machine type: RIB AUTO STRIPPER Brand: FUKUHARA Origin: Japan(VFY6) Machine dia &Gauge: 34; 18G No of Feeder: 68 No of needle: 1922
Others Machines in Knitting Section:

01. Gray Fabric Inspection Machine Brand: Uzu cloth inspection machine Manufacturer: AATPR INDUSTRY CO.LTD. Model: UZ 900-3 Origin: Thailand. No. of Machine: 03 02. Electric Balance for Fabric Weight. 03. Electric Balance for GSM check.
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SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS IN KNITTING SECTION

Sample Fabric
Design Analysis Setting The Machine For Specific Design Sample Making For Production Quality Verification
Production
Fabric Inspection Send To Batching Section
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ROCESS FLOW CHART FOR KNITTING

YARN IN PACKAGE FORM PLACE THE YARN PACKAGE IN THE CREEL FEEDING THE YARN SET THE M/C AS PER DESIGN &GSM KNITTING WITHDRAW THE ROLLED FABRIC AND WEIGHTING INSPECTION NUMBERING
PRODUCT MIX
SINGLE JERSEY S/J LYCRA S/J YARN DYED S/J POLO PIQUE SINGLE LACOSTE DOUBLE LACOSTE FLEECE LYCRA FLEECE
DOUBLE JERSEY 11 RIB 11 LYCRA RIB YARN DYED RIB 21 RIB 22 RIB 22 LYCRA RIB INTERLOCK Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED Page 32
Type of Collar TIPPING COLLAR SOLID COLLAR RAISING COLLAR PEACOT COLLAR WAISY BAND / HEM
CONSIDERABLE POINTS TO PRODUCE KNITTED FABRICS

When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production & quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. These are follows 1. Type of fabric or design of fabric. 2. Fabric composition. 3. Finished G.S.M 4. Yarn count. 5. Types of Yarn (combed or carded) 6. Diameter of the fabric. 7. Stitch length. 8. Color depth.
DIFFERENT PARAMETER IN KNITTING MACHINE:

Machine pitch: It is defined as the distance between the centers of the two adjacent needle of the same row indicated in mm.
Machine Gauge (E):

Machine gauge denotes the number of needles per inch arranged on the needle carrier & based on the nominal machine diameter.
Gauge (E) = (25.4/ pitch) mm.
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Loops:It is a basic unit by which fabric produced & meshed at its base with previous one.
Stitch: The smallest dimensionally stable unit of all knitted fabrics is the stitch. It consists of a yarn loop which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other loops.
Stitch length: Stitch length is the length of yarn which includes the needle loop & half the sinker loop on either side of it. Generally the larger the stitch length, the more extensible & lighter the fabric & poorer the cover, opacity & brushing strength.
PRODUCTION CALCULATION
A. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency
RPM No. of Feeder No. of Needle SL(mm) 3527.80 Yarn count
B. Production/shift in meter
Course / min . Course / cm RPM No. of Feeder 60 12 Efficiency Course / cm 100
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C. Fabric width in meter:

Total no. of wales Wales / cm 100 Total no. of Needles used in knitting Wales / cm 100
BASIC KNITTING ELEMENTS 1. Needle. 2. Sinker. 3. Cam. FUNCTION OF NEEDLES: Needle is raised to clear the old loop from the hook & to receive the new loop above it on the needle steam. In general there are three types of needles 1. Bearded needle.
2. Latch needle.
3. Compound needle.
FUNCTION OF CAM
1. To produce motion of needles. 2. To drive the needles. 3. Formation of loops.
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FUNCTION OF SINKER
It may one or more of the following functions dependent upon the machines knitting action & consequent sinker shape & movement.
DIFFERENT PARTS OF KNITTING MACHINE

Creel: it is used to place the cone.
Feeder: A unite which guides a yarn to the needles . The number of feeder is equal to the number of cam in the machine.
Tensioning device: Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn. VDQ pulley: VDQ pulley is used to control the G.S.M by controlling the stitch length by feeding.
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Guide: Guide is used to guide the yarn.
Sensor: Sensor is used to understand the cause of machine stop.
Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller take it.
Take up roller: Take up roller is used to take up the fabric.
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QUALITY CHECKING FLOW CHART

Yarn inspection (as guideline)
Production sample inspection (as guide line)
Knitted fabric inspection (as per guide line)
Outside knitting sample inspection (as per guide line)
Batch inspection (as per guideline)
Finished fabric inspection (as per guide line)
Make report
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TYPES OF KNIT FABRIC PRODUCED BY FAKIR APPARELS LTD

1. Double jersey
2. Single jersey
3. Various stripes.
4. Pique
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5. Double pique
4. Single Lacoste
5. Double Lacoste
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KNITTING FAULTS COMMONLY FOUND

Drop Stitches (Holes) Definition: Drop Stitches are randomly appearing small or big holes of the same or different size which appear as defects in the Knitted fabrics.
Hole in fabric Major Causes: High Yarn Tension Yarn Overfeed or Underfeed High Fabric Take Down Tension Defects like Slubs, Neps, Knots etc. Incorrect gap between the Dial & Cylinder rings. Remedies: 1. Ensure uniform yarn tension on all the feeders with a Tension Meter. 2. Rate of yarn feed should be strictly regulated as per the required Stitch Length. 3. The fabric tube should be just like a fully inflated balloon, not too tight or too slack. 4. The yarn being used should have no imperfections like; Slubs, Neps & big knots etc 5. The gap between the Cylinder & the Dial should be correctly adjusted as per the knitted loop size. Barrie Definition: Barriness defect appears in the Knitted fabric in the form of horizontal stripes of uniform or variable width.
Causes: High Yarn Tension Count Variation Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED Page 41
Mixing of the yarn lots Package hardness variation
Remedies: Ensure uniform Yarn Tension on all the feeders. The average Count variation in the lot should not be more than + 0.3 Ensure that the yarn being used for Knitting is of the same Lot. Ensure that the hardness of all the yarn packages is uniform using a hardness tester. Streakiness Definition: Streaks in the Knitted fabrics appear as; irregularly spaced & sized, thin horizontal lines.
Causes: Faulty winding of the yarn packages. Yarn running out of the belt on the Pulley Remedies:

Winding of the yarn package should be proper. The yarn should be running between the belt and around the pulley.
Imperfections Definition: Imperfections appear on the fabric surface in the form of unevenly placed or randomly appearing Knots, Slubs & Neps, Thick & Thin places in the yarn.
Causes: Big Knots, Slubs & Neps in the yarn, Thick & Thin yarn. Remedies: Specify the quality parameters of the yarns to be used for production to the yarn supplier. Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED Page 42
Snarls Definition: Snarls appear on the fabric surface in the form of big loops of yarn getting twisted due to the high twist in the yarn. Causes: High twist in the yarn. Remedies: Twist in the yarn should be in required TPM. Contaminations Definition: Contaminations appear in the form of foreign matter such as; dyed fibers, husk, dead fibers etc. in the staple spun yarn or embedded in the knitted fabric structure.
Causes: Presence of dead fibers & other foreign materials, such as; dyed fibers, husk & synthetic fibers etc. Dyed & other types of fibers flying from the adjacent Knitting machines cling to the yarn being used for knitting & get embedded in the Grey Fabric. Remedies: Use rich fiber mixing for the yarns to be used for Knitting in order to have less dead fibers appearing in the fabric. Rigid control measures in the Blow Room to prevent the mixing of foreign matters in the Cotton mixing. Segregate the Spinning & Knitting Machines, with Plastic Curtains or Mosquito Nets, to prevent the fibers flying from the neighboring machines, from getting embedded in the yarn / fabric.
Spirality Definition: Spirality appears in the form of a twisted garment after washing.The seams on both the sides of the garment displace from their position & appear on the front & back of the garment.
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Causes: High T.P.I. of the Hosiery Yarn Uneven Fabric tension on the Knitting machine. Unequal rate of Fabric feed on the Stenter, Calendar & Compactor machines.
Remedies: Use the Hosiery yarns of the recommended TPM level for Knitting. Ensure uniform rate of feed of the dyed fabric on both the edges while feeding the fabric to the Calendar, Compactor or Stenter machines. Needle Lines Definition: Needle lines are prominent vertical lines along the length of the fabric which are easily visible in the grey as well as finished fabric.
Causes: Bent Latches, Needle Hooks & Needle stems Wrong Needle selection (Wrong sequence of needles, put in the Cylinder or Dial) Remedies: Inspect the grey fabric on the knitting machine for any Needle lines. Check the Needle filling sequence in the Cylinder / Dial grooves (tricks).
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Horizontal lines Causes: Fault in bobbin Irregular tension on cams. Remedies: Replace that bobbin. Check cams positioning
Horizontal line in fabric
Broken Needles/ Laddering Definition: Defects caused by the broken needles show prominently as vertical lines parallel to the Wales. There are no loops formed in the Wale which has a broken needle.
Laddering effects Causes: High Yarn Tension Bad Setting of the Yarn Feeders Old & Worn out Needle set Cylinder Grooves are too tight restricting needle movement Breakage of hook or butt in needle.
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Remedies:

Ensure uniform & the right Yarn tension on all the feeders. Keep the recommended gap between the Yarn Feeders & the Needles. Periodically change the complete set of needles. Remove fly or blockage from groove. Replace defective needle.
Sinker Lines Definitions: Sinker lines are prominent or feeble vertical lines appearing parallel to the Wales along the length of the knitted fabric tube.
Causes: Bent or Worn out Sinkers Sinkers being tight in the Sinker Ring grooves Remedies: Replace all the worn out or bent sinkers causing Sinker lines in the fabric. Sinker lines are very fine & feeble vertical lines appearing in the fabric. Remove the fibers clogging the Sinker tricks (Groove Oil Lines Definitions: Oil lines are prominent vertical lines which appear along the length of the knitted fabric tube. The lines become permanent if the needle oil used is not washable & gets baked due to the heat during the finishing of the fabric. Causes: Fibers & fluff accumulated in the needle tricks which remain soaked with oil. Excessive oiling of the needle beds. Remedies: Fibers accumulated in the needle tricks cause the oil to seep into the Fabric. Some lubricating oils are not washable & can not be removed during Scouring. Remove all the Needles & the Sinkers of the machine periodically. Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED Page 46
Clean the grooves of the Cylinder & Dial of the machine thoroughly with petrol. Blow the grooves of the Cylinder Dial & Sinker ring with dry air after cleaning.
Broken Ends Definition: Broken ends appear as equidistant prominent horizontal lines along the width of the fabric tube when a yarn breaks or is exhausted.
Causes:

High Yarn Tension Yarn exhausted on the Cones.
Remedies:

Ensure correct yarn tension on all the feeders. Ensure that the Yarn detectors on all the feeders are working properly. Depute a skilled & alert machine operator on the knitting machine.
Fabric Press Off Definition: Fabric press off appears as a big or small hole in the fabric caused due to the interruption of the loop forming process as a result of the yarn breakage or closed needle hooks. Press off takes place, when the yarn feeding to both the short butt & long butt needles suddenly stops due to the yarn breakage. At times complete fabric tube can fall off the needles if the needle detectors are not functioning or are not properly set. Causes: End breakage on feeders with all needles knitting. Yarn feeder remaining in lifted up position due to which the yarn doesnt get fed in the hooks of the needles. Remedies: Needle detectors, should be set precisely to detect the closed needles & prevent the fabric tube from completely pressing off. Proper yarn tension should be maintained on all the feeders.
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BATCHING OR BATCH
According to TextileGlossary.com A group of units of products of the same type, structure, color and finish, class and composition, manufactured under essentially the same conditions and essentially at the same time, and submitted at any one time for inspection and testing. Types of Batching: 1. Solid batch 2. Assort batch
Function or Purpose of Batch Section

To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source. Turn the grey fabric if require. To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria Order sheet (Received from buyer) Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark) MACHINE capacity MACHINE available Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC) Emergency To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card. To keep records for every previous dyeing.
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Proper batching criteria

To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing Machine. To minimize the washing time or preparation time & Machine stoppage time. To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade. To use a particular Machine for dyeing same shade.
Batch management
Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Sometime planning is adjusted according to Machine condition or emergency. Machine used in the batching: 1. Back sewing Machine: Used to form tube fabric form from open fabric. 2. Reverse sewing Machine: Used only for single jersey fabric to replace the back part with front part in dyeing of critical shade.
Batch calculation ratio: No. of Batch= Calculation for Rope Length: Rope Length (L) = m.
In case of fabric in tube Dia, Rope length (L/) = For lycra = Process lost + 7% only full feeder lycra.
Loading/ Nozzle =
m.
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COLOR LAB
Color is the pre stage of dyeing procedure. In color lab recipe is prepared for specific fabric to achieve desired shade or color according to the buyer. SEQUENCE OF LAB OPERATIONS
A number of operations are done in lab section. This are-
Swatch receives (physical std. Or reflectance value) Fabric & dye selection
Recipe prediction
Sampling & pipetting
Dyeing
Dispatch
Fabric is always recommended by buyer & dyes selection depends upon the technician decision. 1. Swatch receives: Swatch is received from the buyer & it comes to the lab section through the merchandiser. 2. Fabric & dye selection: According to the buyer swatch , the type of fabric is selected & the dye selection depends on the following factor: a. b. c. d. The dye stuff contains Metamerism or not. The dye stuff is suitable for producing particular color. Sometimes buyers recommended the dye to produce particular color. The cost of dye stuff.
3. Recipe prediction: Recipe is determined by matching with reference book or Spectrophotometer. a. By the spectrometer the std. of the swatch is saved in computer. Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED Page 52
b. Then by data color software after selecting the dye some recipes are found with the best suitable recipe comes first & then others. c. If the recipe shows Metamerism then changes the selected dye. 4. Sampling & pipetting: According to the recipe, the required fabric, dyes & chemicals are weighted & stock solutions are made. Then pipe ting is done according to the recipe. Stock solutions are made according to the recipe%. Such asFor Dye a. If recipe % (0.0001- <0.001) then stock solution % (0.01%) b. If recipe% (0.001- <0.1) then stock solution % (0.1%) c. If recipe % (0.1-0.8) then stock solution% (0.5%) d. If recipe% (0.9-4.9) the stock solution% (2.5%) e. If recipe % (5) then stock solution % (5%)
For Auxiliaries: Salt 20% stock solution; Acetic Acid: 0.5 g/l; Leveling agent: 3.5 g/l;
Soda: 10% stock solution. Detergent: 200ml/l;
Pipette use in lab section: 0.1 ml 1 ml & 5 ml to 20 ml. 5. Dyeing: After completing pipe ting according to the recipe, the weighted fabric is taken in sample dyeing Machine beaker & dyeing is completed. Here sample wt. 10gm & liquor ratio 1:8. 6. Dispatch: After completing dyeing, the samples are checked by spectrophotometer or by eye vision in verified matching cabinet. If it shows Metamerism then recipe correction is done & again samples are prepared until no Metamerism & shade match occur. Then in a lab dip card 3 samples are attached. One card is sent to merchandiser & another to buyer through merchandiser. If the buyer chooses the sample then the recipe is send to the dyeing section for bulk production through lab dip program card.
SPECTROPHOTOMETER
The main function of spectrophotometer is to provide the best suitable recipe to dye sample comparing with corresponding standard. If the first recipe fails to fulfill the expectation then it corrects the recipe.
Necessity:
a. Color matching is hard task so it makes the task easier. b. It saves our times which provide assistance on production process. c. It works upon some proved theory so the answer is approximately correct.
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THEORY
Spectrophotometer is based upon Kubelka-mank theory which builds up a relation between reflectance & concentration. The Kubelka-mank values (k/S) is calculated from the reflectance value of standard by the following equation
Where, K = Absorption co-efficient of the sample. S = Scattering. R = Reflective value.
Components
1. Computer, 2. Spectroflash, 3. CIE lab software.
WORKING PROCEDURE:
1. Calibration: The Machine is calibrated for different aperture view with three different calibration standard, they are a. Black b. Green. c. White. Two types of view are mostly used. They are Small aperture view (aperture is 9 mm in dia.) Large aperture view (aperture is 30mm in dia.) Valid time The valid time for work can be varied according to the users. It can be set for 2, 6, and 8 hours or more. 27 2. Data input: Self shades of particular company are prepared with various percentage in the lab & the reflectance value of each sample is scanned in spectrophotometer. 3. Reflectance value measurement of swatch: Buyer provides either color or certain pantone number. This is set on to the spectroflash & the Machine will automatically calculate the reflectance value & saved it in memory. 4. Recipe giving: Considering all parameters we have to select suitable dyes & the Machine will show some possible recipes. The factor affects dye selection much is Metamerism. 5. Compare: After preparing the sample, the reflectance value of the samples are compared with std. one, depending upon L* a* b* values the computer will show the dE value which represents the total color difference between the sample & the std. If dE > 1 the color does not match. If dE 1 then color match. 6. Recipe correction: Depending upon the reflectance value & dE value the computer corrects the recipe until acceptable dE value & color matching are not obtained.
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VERIVIED CABINET
It is the cabinet where dyed or OBA applied samples are checked under different light sources either they show Metamerism or match with the swatch. Light sources: a. D65, 2. TL84, 3. F, 4. UV. Color temp: The temp. at which when a perfect at black body is heated then it emitted that type of light energy of specific wave length. Theory of color: Pigment theory: According to this theory primary colors are Red, Blue, & Yellow & secondary colors are Violet or purple, Orange & Green. When these three colors are in equal amount we get black color. Black is called It is presence of color absence of light Yellow
Green
Orange
Black Blue Violet/ purple Red
TERTIARY COMBINATION:
Orange + Violet = Burgundy. Violet + Green = Grey. Green + Orange = Brown.
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CIE Lab theory: In 1976 recommended the CIE lab system White (L*=100) Green (a*-) Yellow (b* +)
Blue (b*) Black L*=0
Red (a*+)
There are three parameters calculated are L*, a*,b*. L* is a vertical scale express lightness or darkness & Black L*= 0 & white L* =100. a* vertical scale on L* means Red or Green. If a* += then it is Red & a* - =Green. b* vertical scale on a* means Blue or Yellow. If b* + = then it is yellow & b* = Blue.
The values of L*, a*, b* are calculated from the tristimulus values of the color (X, Y, Z) & each value being first divided by corresponding tristimulus values of the appropriate illuminate (Xn, Yn, Zn) . 1. L*=116 (Y/Yn)1/3 -16, 2. a* =500 ((X/Xn)1/3 (Y/Yn)1/3) 3. b*= 200((Y/Yn)1/3 (Z/Zn)1/3) Recent LCH Hue: Hue is the color of an object that we perceive. Value: value denotes the degree of lightness. Color can be classified as light or dark when we comparing the value. Example, when placing a tomato & reddish side by side in contrast the reddish has a dark red value. Chroma: The vividness or dullness of color describing its chroma. Again comparing the tomato & reddish the red of tomato is much vivid than reddish. Chroma C*ab = (a*2 +b*2)1/2 Hue =tan-1 (b*/a*).
&
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WORKING FLOW CHART OF COLOR LAB

Original swatch received from buyer. 1st recipe collection (data color/Reference). Calculate the recipe. Pipetting with robo lab. Add fabric & auxiliaries on dye bath. Load on machine. Dyeing (Time & temperature as required) Unload after dyeing Cold wash Acid wash Cold wash Hot wash. (Time & temperature as required) Cold wash Squeezer Dryer Iron Visual /data color check with standard. i(Lab dip submit) ii(Reference keeping) Lab Approved. Transfer to dyeing floor with Recipe.
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LAB DYEING PROCEDURE FOR COTTON

Swatch receives
Recipe prediction
Pipetting Add leveling agent & salt Took fabric (Left for 20 min) Add soda
Load on m/c (At 60C, run 60 min)

Unload
Cold wash Hot wash at 95C with detergent
Cold wash
Squeezing
Drying
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WASHING OFF PROCEDURE 1. Cold wash is carried out after dropping the dye bath. 2. Then treated with 2g/l acetic acid for 2 min. 3. Then cold wash & soaping with 1 g/l soaping agent at 95C/98C for 15 min (light shade) & 30 min (Dark shade). Then wash with cold water, squeezing & drying. LAB DYEING PROCESS FOR LEVAFIX CA/ REMAZOL RR/ REMAZOL ULTRA RGB: 1. Add dye + auxiliaries + salt at room temp. 2. Add soda ash & set maximum gradient to reach up to 60C. 3. At 60C run 30 min or up to final shade. 4. Then bath drain.
4.
DYEING CURVE:
60C 0C
Run 30 min
Run 60-75 min
{Salt+ Auxiliaries+ Dye at room temperature}
(Soda ash)
Drain
LAB DYEING PROCESS FOR SUMIFIX EXF: 1. Add dye + Auxiliaries + Salt at 30C & run 20 min. 2. Add salt at 30C & run for 5 min. Set gradient 1/min up to 60 (for Turquise, yellow, & green temp. will be 80C) & run 60 min (light shade) & 80 min (Deep shade).
3.
80 C
75/ Run for dark Shade
60C
60min run For light shade
Salt 5/Run 20/Run
1C Drain
Drain
30C {Dye+ Auxiliaries}
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LAB DYEING PROCESS FOR ALL DYE:

Step by step method: 1. Add salt + Auxiliaries at 30C & run for 20 min. 2. Add soda ash at 30C & run for 5 min. 3. Set gradient 1C up to 60C. 4. At 60C & run for 60 min or up to final shade. 80C/60C 60/ run
1C/min 20 run
30C
5 run
Drain.
{Dye + Auxiliaries + Salt}
Soda
ISOTHERM PROCESS 50C/60C: (REMAZOL RR/ REMAZOL RGB/ REMAZOL): {salt + Auxiliaries} Dye dosing 30/ 10/ run (50C/60C) 10/ run 45/ 60/ 30/ Alkali
100% cotton, bleached, non-mercerized; Liquor ratio 1:10 Shade% Salt g/l Soda ash g/l Caustic Soda 50% ml/l Progression Dosing time < 0.1 20 5 0.9 70% 60 60 0.1< 0.5 2025 5 0.91 70% 0.5 < 1 2540 5 11.2 50% 60 60 1 <2 4050 5 1.21.5 50% 2 < 3 5060 5 1.52 50% 60 3 5 6080 5 2 3 50% 60 >5 80100 5 3 50% 4560
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Isotherm process 60C (Levafix CA) {Salt +Auxiliaries} {Dye dosing} 30 60 10 10 Soda ash/Caustic soda: Shade% < 0.1 Salt g/l Soda g/l 15 5 Alkali 4560 30
0.10.5 15-20 5 0.6-0.75 70 60
0.51 20-35 5 0.750.9 50 60
1 2 35-50 5 0.91.2 50 60
2 3 5060 5 1.21.5 50 60
3 5 6080 5 1.52 50 60
>5 80 5 2 30 45-60
Caustic 50% ml/l Progression% 70 Dosing time 60
Levafix CA 60C: Soda ash Shade% < 0.1 Salt g/l Soda g/l Progression% Dosing time 20 5 70 60
0.10.5 2025 5 70 60
0.51 2540 5 50 60
1 2 4050 5 50 60
2 3 5060 5 50 60
3 5 6080 5 50 60
>5 80100 5 30 45-60
Temp. Rise process 70C/80C: Remazol Turquise Blue G & Remazol Briliant Green 6B
Alkali add 70/80C 10 (up to final shade) {Salt +Auxiliaries} {Dye stuff dos} 1. Alkali add 1C/min Drain 30C 10 10 10
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100% cotton bleached, non-mercerized, LR- 1:10: Shade% G. Salt g/l Soda g/l <0.1 20 0.10.5 2025 3 0.51 2540 3 5 1 2 4050 5 8 2 3 5060 810 3 5 60-80 1012 >5 80100 1215
ash 3
1.Alkaliadd (10/30/) 2.Alkaliadd (10/30/)
Salt & Soda recommendation: (sample wt. 5 gm) Shade% Glabuers Salt g/l Glabuers salt solution 20% (1:8)/(1:10) Soda ash g/l Soda ash 10% Soln 1:8/1:10 0.0010.01 5 1 cc 1.25 cc 10 4cc 5 cc 0.1<0.5 8 1.6 cc 2 cc 12 4.8 cc 6 cc 0.5<1 20 4 cc 5 cc 15 6 cc 7.5 cc 1<2 35 7cc 8.7cc 20 8 cc 10 cc 2<5 50 10cc 12.5cc 20 8 cc 10 cc 5 50 10cc 12.5cc 20 8 cc 10 cc
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Salt & soda amount in case of Mercerized & Un mercerized Sample: Shade Light Medium Dark Over Dark shade Mercerized (g/l) 5 20 20 50 Un mercerized (g/l) 3 10 10 50
Amount of soda ash in case of Mercerized & Un mercerized Sample: : Shade Light Medium Dark Mercerized (g/l) 8 10 18 Un mercerized (g/l) 10 15 20
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ORGANOGRAM OF DYEING FLOOR

Dyeing Manger
Assistant Dyeing manger

Senior Production Officer Production officer
Asst. Production officer Junior Production Officer Suppervisor
Machine Operator Machine Helper
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RESPONSIBILITY OF PRODUCTION OFFICER

o o o o o Overall supervision of dyeing & finishing. Dyes & chemicals requisition issue & check. Program making, sample checking color measurement. Control the supervisors operators & helpers of machines. To give dye-line or the program slip according to daily production plan, batch preparation & PH check. o To rectify the finished fabric which rejected from quality control department o To check daily production report. o To study dye & chemicals nature delivery by the manufacture & applied them correctly to the production to get best product
JOB DESCRIPTION: Title: Production officer

Dept: Dyeing Report to: Senior production officer. Job summary: To plan execute & follow up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities.
Title: Senior production officer

Dept: Dyeing. Report to: Dyeing manager. Job summary: To plan execute & follow up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities. DUTIES & RESPONSIBILITIES Overall supervision of dyeing, finishing production. Checks the different log books of different areas & report to management. Checks the sensitive parameters of different machine for smooth dyeing. Checks out the plan to control the best output from supervisor & workers. To trained up & motive the subordinates how to improve the quality production. Maintenance of machine & equipment. Any other works & when required by the management. Control the supervisors, operator, asst. operator & helpers of dyeing Machine.
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DYEING MACHINE CAPACITY Bulk Dyeing Machine Unit-1

Machine Number Machine Number: 01 Machine Number: 02 Machine Number: 03 Machine Number: 04 Machine Number: 05 Machine Number: 06 Machine Number: 07 Machine Number: 08 Machine Number: 09 Machine Number: 10 Machine Number: 11 Machine Number: 12 Machine Number: 13 Capacity in Kg 300 600 600 1000 1000 1000 200 200 1500 1500 900 600 800
Total Capacity=
10,200
Sample Dyeing Machine Capacity Unit-1 Brand Machine Number

Machine Number: 01 Machine Number: 02 Machine Number: 03 Machine Number: 04 Machine Number: 05 Machine Number: 06 Machine Number: 07 ATYC ATYC FONGS FONGS FONGS FONGS FONGS
Capacity in Kg
55 75 150 55 60 30 30
Total Capacity=
455
Total capacity of Bulk dyeing & Sample dyeing machine= 10,655Kg
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Bulk Dyeing Machine Unit-2

Machine Number Machine Number: 01 Machine Number: 02 Machine Number: 03 Machine Number: 04 Machine Number: 05 Machine Number: 06 Machine Number: 07 Machine Number: 08 Machine Number: 09 Capacity in Kg 250 300 300 450 1000 600 200 200 2000
Total Capacity=
10,000
Sample Dyeing Machine Capacity Unit-2 Machine Number

Machine Number: 01 Machine Number: 02 Machine Number: 03 Machine Number: 04
Capacity in Kg
30 120 120 30
Bulk Dyeing Machine Unit-3

Machine Number Machine Number: 01 Machine Number: 02 Machine Number: 03 Machine Number: 04 Machine Number: 05 Machine Number: 13 Machine Number: 14 Capacity in Kg 750 750 750 500 500 1000 1000
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MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF UNIT-1

MACHINE Machine Brand No 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 ATYC ATYC ATYC ATYC Fongs Fongs AKM AKM Fongs Fongs Thies Thies Thies Spain Spain Spain Spain China China Taiwan Taiwan China China Germany Germany Germany 1 2 4 2 4 3 1 1 6 6 3 2 4 Origin
No. Of Nozzle
Reel Speed M/min 140 140 140 170 180 170 120 120 170 180 120 120 120
Total Capacity in Kg
300 600 600 9000 1000 1000 200 200 1500 1500 480 300 700

SL no 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Brand name THIES THIES THIES THIES THIES THIES THIES THIES i-master Sclavos Origin Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Greece
No. Of Nozzle
1 2 2 3 4 5 4 6 6
Reel Speed M/min 120 120 120 120 120 120 120 150 420
Capacity(kg) 150 300 300 500 500 800 600 1600 1500
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MACHINE Machine Brand No 1 2 3 4 5 13 14 Sclavos Sclavos Sclavos Sclavos Sclavos Sclavos Sclavos Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece Greece 3 3 3 2 2 4 4 420 320 320 320 420 420 320 750 750 750 500 500 1000 1000 Origin
No. Of Nozzle
Reel Speed
Total Capacity
RAW MATERIALS FOR DYEING

Raw materials are those, by using or processing which we get final product. In textile there are different types of raw materials. Such as- Yarn is raw material for fabric, dyes & chemicals are raw materials for dyed fabric. Dyed fabric raw material for garments etc. RAW MATERIALS USED IN THE DYEING SECTION ARE: 1. Grey fabrics 2. Dyes 3. Chemicals.
Grey fabrics
FOLLOWING TYPES OF GRAY FABRICS ARE DYED IN FAL: Single jersey Single jersey with Lycra Polo pique Waffle Single lacoste Double Lacoste Fleece Rib Rib with lycra 11 rib 2X2 rib Interlock etc Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED Page 70
SOURCES OF YARN Source G.T.N Perfect T.T AROTI PAT SPIN SPOT KING PT PASIFIC Origin India. India. India. India. India. Indonesia. Indonesia. Source PT INDORMA SQUARE SHOHAGPUR RASHOWA WINSOM MALWA TARA Origin Indonesia. Bangladesh. Bangladesh. Bangladesh. India. India. Bangladesh.
DYE STUFF It was noted by Otto.N.Witt in 1876 that color in organic compound is associated with the presence of certain groups in the molecule. He designated the group as that produce color as a chromophore & a molecule containing such a group as chromogen. The most effective chromospheres are Nitroso, Nitro, Azo, Carbonyl etc. Color substance should become a useful dye, the molecule should contain in addition to chromphore, some auxochrome groups. The most effective auxochromes are Hydroxyl, Amino, Carboxyl, Sulphonic, group etc. DYES USED IN FAL 1. Reactive dye (For Cotton). 2. Acid dye (For Nylon). 3. Disperse dye (For polyester). Properties of Reactive dye: Soluble in Water & not to be hydrolyzed. Capability of movement within the fiber structure. Make covalent bond with fiber. Dyeing carried out in alkaline condition. Fastness properties are generally good. Dyeing method is easy & easy applicable to cellulose as well as protein fiber. All kinds of shade are found. Properties of Acid dye: Acid dyes are salt of sulphonic acid & carboxylic acid & their anions are colored components Soluble in water & are applied in acid medium. It has affinity towards the protein fiber. Light fastness is good. It gives bright shades. Properties of Disperse dye: It is little bit soluble in water. Fastness property is good. It has sublimation property. Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED Page 71
DYES LIST
Sumifix S.S Yellow EXF S.S Red EXF S.S Blue EXF S.S Yellow 3RS S.S Red 3 BS S.S Navy Blue BS S.S Brill Blue R S.S Brill Yellow 4GL S.S Yellow 3RF Drimaren D.VioletK2RLCDG D. Red K-4BL D.T Blue CLB D. Yellow CL-3GL D. Yellow CL2R D. Blue CL-BR D. Blue CLR D. Blue CL-2RL D. Orange K3R Remazol R. Yellow-RR R. Red-RR R. Blue-RR R.G Yellow-RGB R. Ultramarine RGB R. Red-RGB R. Blue-BB R. Briblue-R R. Turblue-G Levafix L. first RED CA L. BR Yellow CA L. Blue CA L. Amber CA L. Red CA L. Yellow L. Scarlet L. Rubine CA L. Orange CA
Ciba C.Yellow F-4G
Sk Sk.Yellow Brown S-2RL Sk Blue S-3Rf
Disperse Dis K.B Blue
Benzactive
Terasil T. Red FBN T.Rubine 2GFL T. Blue WBLS T. G W3R Yellow
Benzactive Blue SLF C.Yellow S-3R Dis K.B Red RB Benzactive Red SLF C.Red FN 3G Sk Red SERPD Dis K.B Orange Benzactive Yellow S-Max C.Super Black- Sk Rubine S- Dis K.B Navy Blue Benzactive G 3GF EXSF Cosmos S-Max Turquish Sk T-Blue S-GL-200% Remazol Tur-Blue G Acid Dye SS Black EXf Acid Black LDN Black
Reactive black B-1500% Ultrazol Black B-5.
Dyes origin
Sumifix: Japan. Drimaren: Germany. Remazol: Germany. Levafix: Germany. Ciba: Switzerland. SK: Korea Terasil: Switzerland Benzactive: Switzerland.
Terasil & Disperse dyes are mainly used for dyeing polyester. Acid dyes are used to Nylon. Sumifix, Drimaren, Remazol, Levafix, Ciba, Sk all these dyes are used to dyeing the Cellulose or Cellulose based fabric.
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CHEMICAL & AUXILIARIES:

Function 1. Wetting agent & Detergent. 2. Sequestering agent. 3. Sequestering agent & wetting agent. 4. Antifoaming agent. 5. All remover it is mainly used for lycra mixed fabric. 6. Neorate PH 150F/ Neorate PH 55F. Stabilizer used during peroxide bleaching. 7. Caustic Soda/ Soda Ash. Give alkali media during reactive dyeing & fixation. It also used as saponification agent. Caustic Soda reduces the amount of Soda ash in same dyeing process where high amount Soda ash is used. 8. Hydrogen peroxide. Bleaching agent. 9. Croaks NF/ Sodium Bisulphate. Peroxide killer, It is enzyme based peroxide killer. 10. Acetic acid. Give Acetic media & mainly used as neutralizer. 11. Bio touch C-35/ Bio touch C-30/ Enzyme. Invazyme CEL. 12. Hydrose. Reducing agent. 13. Neocrystal-200 BF/ Cibacel DBC/ GSS/ Leveling agent. Drimagen E3R. 14. NicepoleD-1044/Lyocol-o-Powder/ Anti creasing agent. Serabid MIP. 15. Serabid IPD/ Ladiquest/ Eganol PS Sequestering agent. 16. Glabuer salt/ Serabid IPF/ San Salt LD4F Electrolyte. 17. NaHCO3. Used where slightly alkali media is required. 18. Soda Ash/ Meropen KP/ Sodium Acetate Give alkali media during reactive dye fixation. 19. Lipotal PS 60-F/ Ladiquest. Multifunctional (wetting agent + detergent + sequestering agent). 20. Neo fix-R-250F. Fixing agent. 21. AlcamineCWS/ArristanHPC/Hydroperm Cationic Softeners. SRHA. 22. Silicon Amzf/ Sunsofter. Softeners. 23. Sirrix 2UD. Multifunctional. Chemicals & Auxiliaries Sunmoral CK-2/ Pitch run L-2/ NDA. Neocrystal DMBF. Invatex CS/ / Neocrystal 150F. Albatex FFC. Pitch run L-100f.
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FLOW CHART FOR DYEING

BATCHING
SELECT MACHINE NO.
FABRIC LOADING
SELECT PRODUCTION PROGRAMME
PRETREATMENT
SELECT RECIPE FOR DYEING
RECIPE CONFIRMED BY DM/PO
DYEING
POST TREATMENT
UNLOAD
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DEMINERALIZATION PROCEDURE OR LOADING HOT(COTTON)

1. Wetting agent (Sun moral CK2) + Sequestering agent (Sarris 2UD) {Inject }. 2. Temperature raises up to 50C & run the process for 30 min. 3. Then drain the liquor.
SCOURING & BLEACHING (COTTON)

1. Inject {Wetting agent (sun moral Ck-2)+ Sequestering agent (Neocrystal 150F)+ Stabilizer (Neorate PH150F)+Anti-creasing agent (NicepoleD-1044)+ Antifoaming agent (Albatex FFC) } 2. Temperature raises up to 60C & run for 5 min. 3. Temperature raises up to 70C with Caustic soda (10 min Linear) dosing & run for 5 min. 4. Then H2O2 inject at 70C. & PH =10-11 5. Temperature raises up to 95C & run for 60 min. 6. Drop the temperature up to 80C for sample check. 7. Drain the liquor. 8. Fill Machine with water & inject the peroxide killer (Croaks NF) 9. Temperature raises up to 80C & run for 10 min. It will remove the un used peroxide from the fabric. 10. Drain the liquor. 11. Then cold wash is given (5/-10/). BIO SCOURING (VISCOSE) 1. Inject {Wetting agent (sunmoral Ck-2)+ Sequestering agent (Neocrystal 150F)+ Anticreasing agent (NicepoleD-1044)+ Antifoaming agent (Albatex FFC)} 2. Temperature raises up to 70C & Caustic Soda (5 min linear) dosing. 3. Temperature raises up to 95C & run for 5 min. 4. Drop the temperature up to 80C for sample check. 5. Then drain the liquor. 6. Cold wash is given for (5/-10/).
ENZYME WASH (COTTON)

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Acetic acid inject at 35C. Temperature raises up to 62C & keeping PH =4.55. Enzyme (Bio touch C-35) is given in linear dosing process. Run at 55C for 60 min. After that temperature raises up to 80C & run for 10 min. Drain the liquor. Cold wash is given for (5/-10/).
WASHING PROCEDURE
1. After B.D the fabric is washed with cold water. 2. Then it is neutralized by acetic acid. 3. After doing this fabric is soap washed at 80C for 10/ 20/.
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SOFTENER APPLICATION
1. After washing softener is applied at 40C for 20 min in acidic medium. 2. Softener dosing is done for 8 min. 3. After it the fabric is washed with cold water.
STRIPPING PROCEDURE
1. Salt, caustic inject & temperature raise up to 95C & run for 20 min. 2. Drain & again caustic inject, hydrous is given by dosing process & temperature raise up to 95C for 40 min. 3. Then drain, hot wash at 80C & then cold wash.
PROCESS CURVE FOR SUMIFIX DYES (CRITICAL + SUPER CRITICAL)
Process: 1. Inject Leveling agent, Anti-creasing agent, and Sequestering agent. 2. Check PH & Hardness level. 3. Color dosing linear 30 min. 4. Salt dosing 8 min 10%, 30%, 60% progressive. 5. Check PH & Hardness level. 6. Soda dosing 1g/l 30 min (linear). 7. Rest Soda dosing 60 min (70% progressive).
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PROCESS CURVE FOR SUMIFIX (NORMAL COLOR)
Process: 1. Inject leveling, anti-creasing & sequestering agents. 2. Salt dosing. 3. Check PH & Hardness. 4. Color Dosing -30/ (Linear). 5. Soda dosing -40 min 70% progressive
PROCESS CURVE FOR (REMAZOL + LEVAFIX DYES):
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PROCESS: 1. Inject leveling, anti-creasing & sequestering agents. 2. Salt is injected. 3. Check pH & Hardness. 4. Color Dosing Linear. 5. Soda dosing 70% progressive 40 min.
PROCESS CURVE FOR (ALL GREEN + TURQUOISE COLOR)
PROCESS: 1. Inject leveling, anti-creasing, sequestering agent. 2. Check PH & Hardness level. 3. Color dosing (30 min) Linear. 4. Salt dosing (8 min), 10%, 30%, 60% progressive. 5. Check PH & Hardness. 6. Soda dosing 1 g/l- (30min) linear & temperature gradient set 10C/min until 600C is reached. 7. Rest soda dosing (60 min) 70% progressive temperature gradient set 10C/min until 800C is reached & then run the bath until the final shade has come.
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PROCESS CURVE FOR WHITE
Process:1. Leveling agent, Wetting agent, Sequestering agent, Anti- foaming agent is injected. 2. Caustic soda dosing (5 min) Linear. 3. Peroxide dosing -5 min. 4. OBA dosing -(20 min). 5. Then raised the temperature up to 950C run for 60/ then drop the temperature at 750C for sample cutting if matched un load the fabric.
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PROCESS CURVE FOR BLACK:
PROCESS: 1. Inject leveling agent, anti-creasing agent, sequestering agents anti foaming agent etc. 2. Salt is injected. 3. Color dosing -25 min (linear). 4. Soda dosing20 min (70% progressive). 5. Caustic soda dosing -20 min (70% progressive).
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PROCESS CURVE FOR POLYESTER:
Polyester dyeing is done with disperse dye at 1300C in acid medium. 1. At first fabric is hot washed at 800C with water. 2. Then dye, dispersing agent, acid is added & temp. Raise 1300C .At this temp. Dyeing is done up to final shade.
DYEING PROCESS FOR POLYESTER & COTTON BLEND: In case of blend dyeing at first polyester part is dyed with disperse dye & then cotton part is dyed with reactive dyes. Dyeing of blended fabric Single bath two stage of dyeing method is followed.
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MAIN PARTS OF THE MACHINES

Main tank Preparation tank Pump Filter Heat Exchanger Additional tank Lid
FILTER
The filter eliminates the loose fibres in the dye bath, consequently it reduces the loose fibre loads on the fabric. Changing and cleaning the filters is sometimes forgotten, with the result that the dyeing machine's nozzle pressure decreases, with the effect that running is disturbed and tangles can occur. automatic self cleaning filter system No cleaning of filter. No pressure variation in the nozzles due to lint buildup due to automatic regulation system. No lint on fabric due to 100 % filtration of the circulation liquor.
ADDITIONAL TANK
Addition tank is used for Color dosing Salt dosing Chemical dosing Auxiliaries injection Salt dissolving
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HEAT EXCHANGER
Theory of Application Two fluids, of different starting temperatures, flow through the heat exchanger. One flows through the tubes (the tube side) and the other flows outside the tubes but inside the shell (the shell side). Heat is transferred from one fluid to the other through the tube walls, either from tube side to shell side or vice versa. The fluids can be either liquid or gases on either the shell or the tube side. In order to transfer heat efficiently, a large heat transfer area should be used, so there are many tubes. In this way, waste heat can be put to use. This is a great way to conserve energy.
FUNCTION OF DISSOLUTION PUMP

Dissolution pump makes the chemical concentration (salt,soda,dye,auxiliaries) low before passing it to the main tank. This concentration is reduced in 1:4 ratio(liquor from additional tank: liquor from main tank). As a result rate of chemical dosing become slow which gives better fixation. Thus better color yield and even dyeing can obtain.
ADVANTAGES OF VARIABLE CHAMBER SETTING

Better alignment of the fabric More loading facility Less Entanglement
WAYS OF LIQUOR FLOW FROM ADDITIONAL TANK

TWO WAYS1. Injection 2. Dosing Linear dosing Progressive dosing Decreasive dosing
THE FACTORS TO FEED AND CHECK BEFORE LOADING Variable Chamber setting according to the linear density and loading. Calculate and feed the exact MLR and feed in batch Data Ensure the MSR level and MIR level and flow. Ensure the pH of Dyeing Page 83
THE FACTORS TO CONCENTRATE DURING DYEING

The operator should change the filter After Enzyme wash After Drain dyeing Bath After Rinsing Bath
DYEING PARAMETER CONTROL CHART

Water level before fabric loading(Lit) Loading Time(min) Water level after fabric loading(after running 05 min) Dosing time of caustic Run time Dosing time of per-oxide Total time need to raise temp.of 105: Gradiant (Degree/min) Total run time(min) Total time need to cooling at 80c Gradiant (Degree/min) Total MIR /Rinsing time to 50c Total run time after acid dosing Check PH Total runtime after peroxide killer dosing Check residual per-oxide(ppm) CheckPHbeforeenzymedosing Total run time during enzyme
DYEING
Water level (Lit) Check PH before color/salt dosing Total time for color dosing Total run time Total time for salt dosing Total run time Check PH after salt dosing Total time for soda dosing Check PH after soda dosing(AfterrunningtheMachine05min) Total time need to B/D Drain the Machine Total time for MIR/ Rinsing Drain the Machine Total time for acid Page 84
Check PH and TDS(ppm) Temp for soaping Soaping time Drain the Machine 2ndsoapingtemp Soapingtime Drain the Machine Total MIR/Rinsing time
COMMON DYEING FAULTS WITH THEIR REMEDIES

UNEVEN DYEING Causes: Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching). Improper color dosing. Using dyes of high fixation property. Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers. Lack of control on dyeing Machine
Remedies: By ensuring even pretreatment. By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers. Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals. Proper controlling of dyeing Machine
BATCH TO BATCH SHADE VARIATION

Causes: Fluctuation of Temperature. Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals. Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals. Dyes lot variation. Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio. Improper pretreatment. Remedies: Use standard dyes and chemicals. Maintain the same liquor ratio. Follow the standard pretreatment procedure. Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED Page 85
Maintain the same dyeing cycle. Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade. . The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily.
Patchy dyeing effect

Causes: Entanglement of fabric. Faulty injection of alkali. Improper addition of color. Due to hardness of water. Due to improper salt addition. Dye migration during intermediate dyeing. Uneven heat in the machine, etc
Remedies: By ensuring proper pretreatment. Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals. Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor. Proper salt addition.
Roll to Roll variation or Meter to Meter variation:

Causes: Poor migration property of dyes. Improper dyes solubility. Hardness of water. Faulty Machine speed, etc
Remedies: Use standard dyes and chemicals. Proper Machine speed. Use of soft water
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Crease mark:
Causes: Poor opening of the fabric rope Shock cooling of synthetic material If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal Due to high speed Machine running Remedies: Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature Reducing the Machine load Higher liquor ratio
Dye spot:
Causes: Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath. Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies: By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed
Wrinkle mark
Causes: Poor opening of the fabric rope Shock cooling of synthetic material High temperature entanglement of the fabric Remedies: Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature Higher liquor ratio
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Softener Mark:
Causes: Improper mixing of the Softener. Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener. Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
Remedies: Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. Proper Mixing of the softener before addition. Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
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FINISHING
Textile finishing, in a restricted sense, is the term used for a series of processes to which all bleached, dyed, printed and certain grey fabrics are subjected before they are put on the market. In fact, finishing includes the final treatment of every kind of fabric made from every kind of fiber
Objective of finishing:
Improving the appearance Luster, whiteness, etc
Improving the feel, which depends on the handle of the material and its softness suppleness fullness, etc.
,
Wearing qualities, none soiling, anticrease, antishrink, comfort, etc.
Special properties required for particular uses water proofing, flame proofing, etc.

Covering of the faults in the original cloth. Increasing the weight of the cloth.
Types of finishing:
1) Chemical finishing: a) Chemical reaction of auxiliaries with fibers. b) Application of the handle modifying products / additives. 2) Mechanical finishing: Mechanical treatment with machines
Finishing effects:
Easy - care Crease recovery. Dimensional stability. Good abrasion resistance. Improved tear strength. Good sew ability Soft or stiff handle. Shine or luster
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The finishing method can be classified according to the special effects that they produce on the fabric. These effects include: a. Stabilizing effects. (Stentering, Mercerizing, etc). b. Textural effects. (Calendaring, Embossing). c. Functional effects. (Water repellent finish, Soil release finish etc).
Organogram of Finishing Section:

Executive Director (E.D)
Manager
Sr. Principle officer (P.O)
Finished Fabric
Finished Collar / Cuff
On line System
Off line system
Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor / Jr. Supervisor
Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor / Jr. Supervisor / Jr. Supervisor
Quality Controller
Asst. Quality Controller Quality Controller Quality Controller
Asst. Quality Controller
Asst. Quality Controller
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FLOW CHART OF FINISHING SECTION
Finishing Section
Open fabric Slitting machine
Tube fabric Dewatering machine
Stentering
Compacting machine Final Inspection
Drying Machine
Tube compacting machine Final Inspection
Fabric physical & chemical test Finish fabric store Finish fabric delivery.
FLOW CHART FOR PEACH FINISH/BRUSH:

Slitting Stenter Sueding/Raising Stenter Compacting
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FOR LYCRA
Slitting Heat Setting Sewing Drying Slitting Stenter Compacting
SLITTING MACHINE
Objects: a. To get open width fabric from tube form. b. To extract a level of water from the wet fabric by squeezing roller. c. To apply softener to get softness of fabric.
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MAIN COMPONENTS 1. De-twister 2. Mechanical stretcher. 3. Fabric cutter. 5. Tension roller 6. Dust remover. 7. Squeezer.
4. Guide roller.
CUTTING SPEED For fabric cutting there remain a cutter & the cutting speed depends on type of fabric ie. (s/J or D/J). In case of S/j the speed is less than D/J. TYPICAL SPEED Fabric type R.P.M S/J 60-65 D/J 80 To increase the production the speed is always remain in 80. SOFTENER APPLICATION Recipes: C.W.S Silicon Acetic acid Water Temp. PH
20 Kg 1 Kg 200 cc. 300L 300 C 5.5-6
Note: - Softener should be dissolved in 900C with 100L water then add remaining water & apply for softness. PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT: Pressures in squeezing roller always remain between 4-4.5 bar. Note: - In special case where the shade need to be light then pressure must be increased according to the direction of upper level. Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED Page 94
PRECAUTION: a. Cutter cut the fabric according to the needle drop mark, so the operator must be aware about it. b. There remain no folding in the selvedge when the fabric through the squeezing roller.
STENTER MACHINE
Object: a. To heat set lycra fabric. b. To dry open width dyed fabric. c. To maintain dia , GSM & bowing problem. d. To apply chemicals. MAIN COMPONENTS: a. Guide roller , b. Tension roller, c. Over feed roller, d. Under feed roller, d. Dancing roller. e. Padder, f. Steam applier, g. Selvedge cutter, h. Gumming wheel, i. Heating chamber, j. Blowers, k. Air joke, l. Sensor. HEAT SETTING Due to elasticity of lycra it can create problem in the long run. So by applying heat elastic property is reduced a bit & plastic property is brought. This process is known as heat setting. This process is also carried out for polyester. TYPICAL TEMPERATURE: For low gsm fabric For High gsm fabric For Lycra contained For Polyester For PC fabric : 120 0C 1250C. : 130 0C 1350C. : 185 0C 2000C. : 2000C 2100C. : 190 0C 2000C.
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CONTROL OF SHRINKAGE, DIA, GSM OF FABRIC: According to the type of fabric dia, is set by increasing the existing fabric diameter. Thus everything is controlled by depending upon the dia setting & temp setting. FUNCTION OF SOME MAIN COMPONENTS: 1. Mahole arrangement: If coarse line deviates from original position then by the use of this we can release from this problem. 2. Chain: It carries the fabric to the delivery zone through the chamber. 3. Blower: The blowers protest the steam to move backwards when additional steam is applied to the fabric. 4. Net: Net collect dust from fabric when it passed through the chamber. 5. Gumming wheel: To avoid curliness of selvedge, this wheel is used to apply gum & cutter then cut this position.
STANDARD OPERATING PARAMETER FOR DIFFERENT FABRIC IN STENTER:

Fabric Type GSM Dia 2+ 2+ 4+ 4+ 3+ 4+ 4+ 2+ 2+ 3+ Temperat ure 110-140 120-170 130-160 140-160 130-160 130-160 140-170 130-160 140-160 130-160 Over Feed 40-45% 40-45% 50% 50% 40-45% 50% 40-45% 45% 45% 50% Padder Pressue 2 bar 2.5 bar 2 bar 2 bar 1.5-2bar 2 bar 2 bar 2 bar 2 bar 2 bar Speed (rpm) 30-35 25-30 25-30 24-28 25-30 20-25 20-25 24-28 20-25 20-25 Blower rpm 1100-1300 1200-1400 1200-1400 1200-1400 1200-1400 1200-1400 1300-1400 1300-1400 1200-1400 1200-1400
Single jersey 115-150 Single jersey 160-220 Lycra Single 160-200 jersey Lycra jersey Single 200-250 160-200 190-220 260-300 160-220 190-220 190-220
Pique Lycra Pique Fleece/Terry 1x1 Rib 2x2 Rib Interlock
*S/J fabric feed at 3-5 degree angle. *Others fabric feed, straight. Precaution: 1. Fabric should be set in such a way that it could not be displaced. 2. Heat of different department should be gradually maintained. 3. Excess over feed should not provide to all types of fabric.
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OPEN COMPACTOR
Object: To control Gsm, Diameter & Shrinkage of the fabric. MAIN COMPONENTS: 1. Scroll roller. 2. Metal detector. 3. Guide roller. 4. Tension roller. 5. Steam applier. 6. Feed roller. 7. Tension roller. 8. Take up roller. Etc. OPERATING PARAMETERS: 1. Set the temperature between 1200C 1300C for white & 1500C 1600C for color fabric. Temp. Increase with GSM & moisture content. 2. Over feed % is 10%20% or more depends upon the finished G.S.M. 3. Speed depends on the finished gsm. They are vice versa.
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SQUEEZER
Object: 1. To extract excess amount of water by squeezing. 2. To apply softener to the fabric.
MAIN COMPONENTS: 1. De-twister, 2. Guide roller. 3. Immersion roller. 4. Tension roller. 5. Squeezing roller. 6. Shape. 7. Softener tray. 8. Ring. 9. Over feed plate. Roller speed: For single jersey: (6070) m/min. For double jersey: (5055) m/min. Squeezing pressure: Pressure always remains in first squeezing roller 4 bar & in second roller is 4.5 bar. OVERFEED: When there need to increase the width of fabric then feed roller feed more fabric to the next roller. In this way dimensional stability is gained. PRECAUTION: 1. Chemicals should be changed every time when the roll is changed. 2. Diameter should be maintained. 3. Over feed section should be cleaned. Etc
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DRYER
Objects: 1. To dry the fabric. 2. To make the fabric wrinkle free. Main Components: 1. Tension roller, 6. Scroll roller.
2. Feed roller, 3. Conveyor.
4. Net.
5. Blower.
Temperature & speed: Temperature depends on the type of fabric. For S/j & D/J it remains 135 0C 1600C & 1400C 1700C respectively. Speed for S/j & D/J 8-12 m/ min & 5-9.5 m /min respectively. Precaution: 1. Fabric should not contain any wrinkle when it is feed to the conveyor. 2. Temperature should be controlled according to the type of fabric.
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TUBE COMPACTOR
Object: 1. To control gsm, dia, & shrinkage of the fabric.
Main components:
1. Feed roller. 2. Shape. 3. Guide roller. 4. Tension roller. 5. Steam applier. 6. Feed roller. 7. Conveyor. 8. Take up roller. 9. Compacting shoe. Etc. Shape: It is used to maintain the fabric diameter. There are various types of shape:Diameter 1417 1619 1720 1925 22.2528.25 2636.75 34.7547 4557 Compacting roller pressure: Roller pressure far 20 psi Roller pressure near 25 psi Shoe pressure 30 psi Spreader type A A A B B C D E
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Temperature: Compacting shoe 700C. Feed roller 900C. Retard roller 900C. Precaution: 1. Compacting roller pressure should be adjusted with far & near roller. 2. Care should be taken that over or loss compaction does not occur. 3. Care should be taken about gsm, temperature, dia. 4. Steam should be applied according to the required softness of the finished product.
STANDARD OPERATING PARAMETER FOR DIFFERENT FABRIC IN OPEN COMPACTOR

Fabric type Single jersey Pique (s/j,d/j) Lycra s/j 1x1 Rib 2x2 Rib Interlock Color White Color White Color White Color White Color White Color White Color Speed 15-18 15-18 15-18 15-18 12-16 12-16 15-20 15-20 12-15 12-15 12-16 12-16 Over Feed 25-30 25-30 30-35 30-35 Full over feed 20-30 20-30 25-30 2530 Full over feed Temperature 90-110 110-120 100 110-120 100-110 100-120 100 110-120 100 110-120 100 110-120 Blanket Pressure 1.5-2bar 1.5-2bar 1.5-2bar 1.5-2bar 1.5-2bar 1.5-2bar Teflon Pressure 36psi 36psi 36psi 36psi 36psi 36psi
*S/J fabric feed at 3-5 degree angle. *Others fabric feed, straight.
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QUALITY LAB
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LABORATORY MACHINERIES WITH ITS SPECIFICATION

1. Tearing Strength Tester: Brand Name :Elmatear Origin : U.K 2. Bursting Strength Tester: Brand Name : TruBurst Origin : U.K 4. Pilling Resistant Tester: Brand Name : Impulse Origin : U.K 5. ICI Pilling Resistant Tester: Brand Name : SDL ATLAS Origin : U.S.A 6. Crockmaster: Brand Name : SDL Origin : U.S.A 7. Yarn evenness tester: Brand name: SDL ATLAS Origin : U.S.A 8. Wrap reel Yarn Count Tester: Brand name: SDL ATLAS Origin : U.S.A 9. Weight Cutting Machine (GSM): Brand name: Samsung Origin : South Korea 10. Thermograph: Brand name: SK Sato
Origin
: U.S.A
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TEST NAME: COLORFASTNESS TO WASHING, DRY CLEANING. Name of the Machine: Rota Wash Origin : U.K Test Method :ISO105-C06, ISO105-D02 TEST NAME: DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, SPIRALITY, AND APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING . Name of the Machine: Eltrolux wascator. Origin : U.K Test Method : ISO 6330, ISO 26330 TEST NAME: SHRINKAGE TEST. Name of the Machine: Eltrolux Origin : U.K Test Name: Color Fastness to Wash Test. Name of the Machine: Gyrowash Origin : U.K Test Method : ISO 105-C06
TEST PERFORMED IN QUALITY LAB

1. Yarn count test. 2. Evenness test of yarn. 3. Fabric GSM tests. 4. TPI test. 5. Calculation of shrinkage & Twist % of garments. 6. Pilling test of fabric. 7. PH test 8. Color fastness to Rubbing. 9. Color fastness to Light. 10. Color fastness to Washing. 11. Color fastness to perspiration. 12. Formaldehyde test ISO 141841 JISA JISB 13. Test for phenolic yellowing ISO 105 X 18.
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YARN COUNT TEST

Yarn count is tested by the wrap reel & weight balance. At first yarn is wrapped on the wrap reel. For 110 revolutions, 110 meters wrapped in wrap reel. Then yarn is weighted by balance in gm, & count is measured in direct system (Tex). After this count is converted in to indirect system (Ne). Conversion formula: Ne=
EVENNESS TEST OF YARN

Evenness is tested by the Evenness tester. Yarn is wound on evenness tester board & then evenness is measured by the evenness testing scale. Evenness is graded by A, B, C, & D. A indicates even B indicates moderate C indicates average D indicates uneven. No of scale:Different scales for different count of yarn. 1. Scale for count ranges from (12+ to 24 Ne or 50 to 25+ Tex). 2. Scale for count ranges from (24+ to 36 Ne or 25 to 16+ Tex). 3. Scale for count ranges from (36+to 50 Ne or 16 to 12+ Tex). Note: Sometimes evenness may be graded as A+, B.
FABRIC G.S.M TESTS

At first fabric is cut by G.S.M cutter. Weight is measured by weight balance. Then G.S.M is measured by following procedure. Area = 2 Here AB = Diameter (say 11.3 cm) r = Radius & weight = 2.1 gm Now Area = (5.65 cm) =100 cm So, G.S.M = (weight 100) = 210 gm
TPI TEST
TPI means the no. of twist per unit length of yarn. It is measured by TPI tester. At first sample of specific yarn is placed between jaw & clamp & distance between them is 10 inch. Twist is counted by de-twisting & re-twisting process. Then TPI is measured by dividing the total no. of twist by 10.
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CALCULATION OF SHRINKAGE %
After washing fabric has a natural tendency to shrink. It is ratio of the change in dimension of the garments after wash & before wash. It is expressed in percentage. Shrinkage% =
100
Fabric or garments is pointed with the measurement 30cm 30 cm. Then it is washed with the persil detergent 10gm/l in washing Machine. Washing time & temperature are given below: Temperature 300C 400C 600C Time 28 min 45 min 55min
Then drying is done either Tumbling or Line drying or flat drying depends on the buyer requirement. In case of tumble dry 600C 50/ In case of flat dry Normal temperature (7-8hr) In case of line dry Normal temperature (7-8 hr).
CALCULATION OF TWIST% OF GARMENTS

After washing due to any problem related to yarn, seam line may deviate from its position in the garments. This problem is known as twisting. Twisting is defined as the ratio of the deviation of the seam line to its original length or width. It is expressed as Twist % = Where A= Measurement of seam line deviation. B= Exact measurement of length or width before washing. Some buyer recommends body length measurement. B= Exact measurement of length before washing. Some buyer recommends bottom length measurement then B= Exact measurement of width before washing. Acceptable limit of twist % depends on buyer.
PH TEST
First distilled water is taken & PH is controlled between 5.57.5. From this controlled water 50 ml water is taken & 2 gm of small piece of fabric is immersed in water for 12 hr. Then P H is checked again by PH meter. Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED Page 106
If it is found that PH is between 5.57.5 then it is accepted but if it is greater than7.5 then it is rejected.
PILLING TEST OF FABRIC

Pilling test is done by ICI Pillbox. It gives an idea about the hairiness. TEST PROCEDURE At first fabric is cut according to template (12.5 12.5). Now the sample is sewn around a rubber tube & set in the pilling tester. The main mechanism is that when the box rotates then friction takes place between the rubber tube & inside Machine surface. After a number of rotations the hairiness is compared with pill scope. Number of revolution depends on buyer. Some buyer demands 14400 rev. which takes time 4hr & some buyer demands 7200 rev. which takes time 2 hr. Some demands 10800 rev. which takes time 3 hr. Grade of pill scope: 1> very bad. 2> Bad 3> Average. 4> Good. 5> Excellent.
TESTING PROCEDURE OF FORMALDEHYDE (ISO14184):

Sample collect (10cm 5 cm).
Water extraction ( 1200 PSI 400C). 3 ml extraction & 3 ml Narshing agent (400C 30/R).Cooling
Spectrophotometer (10ml sample).

If yellow color turn then formaldehyde present in the fabric or garments.
For Baby = 20 ppm Adult = 75 ppm Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED Page 107
COLOR FASTNESS TO RUBBING

This test is performed by using the crock meter. TEST PROCEDURE A sample of 15cm 8 cm is placed on the base of crock meter. Then rubbing cloth of 5cm 5 cm is clamped under the finger of the crock meter. Then 10 rubbing action is performed between 13.5 cm 2.5 cm area are tested sample by moving the handle of crock meter within the 10 sec. The test is performed in two ways. Either in dry or wet rubbing. It is based on the buyer recommendation. Then staining & color change is measured & rating is given by comparing with grey scale.
Grey scale rating 5 4 3 2 1
Fastness Excellent Good Average Bad Very bad.
COLOR FASTNESS TO WASHING Color fastness to washing can be performed either in washcator Machine or infrared dry Machine. In case of garments washcator is used in case of fabric & accessories infrared dryer is used. PROCEDURE FOR WASHCATOR A sample of multi fiber of 10cm 4 cm is taken & sewn to each garment. Then 10 gm Persil detergent is taken for each wash. The Machine is run for specific time & temp & it is depends opn the buyer recommendation. Typical temp. are 30 0C, 400C, 500C, 600C. Then staining & color change is count & rating is given by comparing with grey scale. PROCEDURE FOR INFRARED DRYER A sample of multi fiber of 10cm 4 cm is taken & sewn with multi-fiber same measurement Then washing solution is prepared with following recipe:Water 1 liter. Sodium perborate 1 gm/l ECE (detergent)- 4 gm/l In a beaker solution is taken according to the liquor ratio 1:10 & the sample is immersed in it. Then the beaker is set in the beaker holder in Machine & run for 30 min at 60 0C. Then the fabric is dried & staining & color change is measured & rating is given by comparing with grey scale.
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COLOR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION For this test artificial perspiration solution is prepared. It may be acidic or alkaline. Typical recipes are Components 1. L histamine mono hydrochloride monohydrate 2. Di-sodium Hydrogen orthophosphate 3. Sodium Hydrogen orthophosphate 4. Sodium chloride 5. Water 6. PH Acidic 0.5 gm 2.2 gm. 5 gm 1L 5.5 Alkaline 0.5 gm 2.5 gm 5 gm 1L 8
In a beaker sufficient amount of solution is taken. Then a sample (10 cm 4 cm) is immersed in to the solution for 30 min. Then the sample is taken out & place between two glass plates. Then 5 kg weight is placed over it & kept in the incubator at 37 2 0C for 4 hr. Then the sample is taken out & the result is measured by comparing with the grey scale.
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GARMENTS CUTTING SECTION

M/C Specification: Auto Spreader (2): M/C No.: 01 Brand Name: Gerber Spreader Country: Germany Year of Manufacturing: 2006 M/C No.: 02 Brand Name: Gerber Spreader Country: Germany Year of Manufacturing: 2006
Hand Cutter : Brand Name: Mack Country: Japan Speed: 3000/3600 Volt: 220 Frequency: 50/60 Hz Phase:1 Blade: Straight bar blade
Auto Cutter (1): Brand Name: Gerber Country: Germany
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STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE OF CUTTING SECTION

Cutting department receives Tech Pack from merchandiser and PP sheet of a style from IE. Cutting department checks whether sample, master pattern and fabrics are ready or not. If ready cutting department collects sample, marker and fabric (for size set) from the sample section, CAD section and fabric store. Cutting department gives a lay for size set sample, cut, sew in the size set line, print, wash, embroidery all are done and measurement are taken in all the steps.
If it is found that an adjustment is required in the master pattern, than cutting manager, buyer QC and pattern master check and make necessary correction as per grading and informs pattern and CAD section.
Then cutting department collects fabrics for bulk production from store and checks whether the GSM of every roll is fine or not and check the width of fabric for that lot.
If fabric GSM is ok, cutting department sends information to CAD section containing in which width and ratio of fabric they are going to cut that particular cutting.
CAD prepares marker and sends it to the cutting section.
If in that style self-fabric for neck is required, Cutting in charge informs the spreading machine operator to keep particular amount of fabric from each roll.
Spreading starts and completed. Marker is placed on the lay and then costape is attached. Cutting starts and completed.
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Cutting parts are transferred to stickering Table.
A spread sheet containing number of layer in that cutting, how many parts in a garment goes to the stickering Section by spreader machine operator.
Stickers are made ready.
Bundle cards are made ready.
Stikering starts and completed and sticker attached parts are send to bundling area.
Bundle cards come to bundle area.
Bundling starts and completed.
Rejection cutting starts and completed.
If other operations are needed such as Print, Embroidery, cutting department sends the cut panels to the store and later collects them from the store and checks whether there is any alter or not.
Solid parts.
Print and Embroidery panels are checked and if some alter and rejects are found the bundle cards are re-written making necessary adjustments.
Store in the cutting input rack.
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PRINTING
General Overview Area Covered= 2 flo0r Manpower=450 Per table=12-13 Auto screen m/c=5 Heat press m/c= above 8 Curing m/c=2-3 Capacity of Printing= 100,000 pcs per day
Machine Type Screen shot Drying Expose shot Heat press Curing
Machine information Auto screen shot Manual screen shot Auto dryer Hand dryer Auto expose shot Manual expose shot Depends on pressure & temp. range Depends on temp. & belt speed
NO. of M/C 4 4 100 1 3 8 3
Printing System
Hand screen printing Sereen Printing Automatic Flat (Revolving) screen printing
TYPES OF PRINTING: Rubber printing Foil printing Pigment printing
Metallic printing Flock printing Photo printing Burnout printing Glitter Printing Silicon printing High density printing Volcanic pinting Discharge print Puff print Plastisol print Crack print Gel print Sticker/transfer print Reflective
Machine Brand: Alpha 8 by M&R companies.
Machine Brand: Schenk-Spider.
FLOW CHART OF PRINTING SECTION

Artwork from merchandiser Design input Design development Positive/film Print taken Requisition by merchandiser Panel(cutting fabric parts) Expose(frame adjusted) Fila and frame adjusted Water spray Panel send to buyer Buyer approval Sale sample Counter sample P P production
Accessories booking Requisition by merchandiser for fabric Fabric received and store Count the fabric Inspection the fabric Fabric adjusted Bulk production start Hydro extractor from dryer Inspection Finishing Delivery
DESIGN
Artwork receive from development Detail design perform & analyze by Adove photoshop & illustrate Prepare individual film for different color by work express software Send to expose room
SCREEN PREPARATION:
Mesh fabric tight with frame Applied chemical TXR (sensitizing emulsion) on the mesh & dried 8 min in air.
Placed design paper under the mesh. Light passes through the design paper & mesh fabric for 3-4 min. Remove the colored TXR from the design area by water spraying.
SEQUENCE OF PRINTING
Count garment parts Screen preparation Printing paste preparation Applied garment part on the printing bed by (adhesive) gum in the marked portion Printing the garment part by using screen Drying the printed portion by hard dryer applying hot air flow Curing the printed portion by passing through the conveyor dryer at 1600 - 1800 c Inspection is done in qualify control department
PROCESS FOR FOIL PRINTING

Add adhesive on the require design by screen Place the fabric part on to the Pressing M/C Pressing the upper part of the M/C at 100PSi, Temp-1500 For-6 Sec
EXPOSE ROOM Mesh fabric NO.

10,12 14 16,20
Print Type
Glitter Afsan, Discharge pigment Rubber,Puff, High density, Foil, Gel, Plastisol, Reflective, Crack
PRINT WISE CURING

Print type Rubber Pigment Plastisol Discharge Puff Glitter Reflective High density Gel Afsan Temperature 150-160 140-150 180-200 180-200 170-180 150-160 160-170 180-200 170-180 150-160 Belt speed m/min 4-6 4-6 4-5 3.5-4 3.5-4 4-6 4-6 3.5-4 4-5 4-6 Duration(sec) 30-45 30-45 36-45 45-52 45-52 30-45 30-45 45-52 36-45 30-45
COMMON PRINT DEFECTS

Measuring fault Print missing Wrong color Hand feel not correct Color migration problem Not properly attach Dirty marks Uneven print Air bubble Air hole Shade variation
MAJOR CAUSES OF PRINT DEFECTS

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Screen & print body are not in same axis Irregular wash of screen frame Wrong color recipe Insufficient drying of previous color Inaccurate composition of fixture Improper heat & pressure Dirty environment
AUTO SCREEN SHOT

1. Faster production 2. High color combination 3. Immediate drying between two consequetive print Not suitable forLarge & complete body print High density, flock & multiple color, discharge print.
MANUAL SCREEN SHOT

1. Generally all types of print are performed 2. More time consuming 3. Drying performed by hand or auto dryer
HEAT PRESS Machine

1. GENERALLY USED FOR Foil & Sticker print 2. Matt & glossy appearance also provide by this technique
3. Print performed at a certain temp. & pressure

DRYING
1. Hand drying 2. Auto drying It is performed to dry previous color temporally Color migration occurred due to improper drying of previous color
CURING
Curing is the ultimate drying of print Proper curing is the vital issue for a quality print
Curing also liable for fabric shade change due to high temp.
MERCHANDISING SECTION
INTRODUCTION OF MERCHANDISING
The Merchandising is known to the persons specially involved in garments trade. The term merchandising has been derived from the merchandise. Merchandise means buying and selling huge amounts of goods.
The term MERCHANDISING may be defined as Person who merchandises the goods, specifically for export purposes. Garments merchandising means buying raw materials & accessories, producing garments, maintaining required quality level and exporting the garments within scheduled time.
NEED OF MERCHANDISER
The position "Merchandiser" is playing a vital role in the RMG sector today. Merchandiser is the person who handles around 75% of the cost related to the garment & the production cost is only be almost about 25% of the garment. There by the role of Merchandiser in the apparel sector plays the most responsible part mainly for the financial benefit of the Company. The Merchandiser's small mistake will affect 75% of income of the order which will leads to a big disaster. This has to be understood by the Merchandisers seriously.
RESPONSIBILITY OF MERCHANDISER
Now days, major companies are adopting merchandising concepts, which comply with all procedures to execute and dispatch the shipment on time, considering quality, cost and time. Merchandisers are serious in the success of any garment retail business. They provide the right products at the right time, enabling a company to match with latest market trends and meet the market demand. In the merchandising concept, time management is a gig to manage one's time properly, so he can focus on value adding actions. Today's garment merchandisers have to move with frequent changes in demand and the developing technologies utilized in manufacturing and production. To find out customer requirements, they regularly visit retail outlets, and come up with latest updates from frontline staff. In order to keep an eye on developments in sourcing, site visits are made every week to mainland factories to meet suppliers and study production. In garment merchandising, there is no specific rule, so it's important to be able to think on one's feet.
The main procedures of merchandisers are as followed:

UNDERSTANDING SAMPLE ORDER Merchandiser has to understand the buyer's requirements after receiving specification in the sample order. In many cases, there are modifications pertaining to the specifications in the order to dispatch on time and the right quality. He has to talk with the in-house veterans on the execution problems of sample orders, as the right information is required in decision making. MANAGING ORDER ROUTE CARD AND PRODUCTION TIMETABLE Merchandiser has to manage every single production schedule and order route card that helps to follow-up the execution in the planned way. It is expected to be acknowledged of the various descriptions like: design, no. of modules, no. of operators, how many processes, and date of dispatch, quantity, output capacity, and deadlines in the schedules. The sub-ordinates are normally assigned to follow-up with execution of the plan. Merchandiser plans the activities depending on the essentials or non-essentials, and top priority are given to the most essential tasks. This is customary that the essential activities are handled personally or with the support of junior merchandisers/sub-ordinates. In a "daily schedule", merchandiser has to carry-out and categorize which is the most significant and urgent task. The activity that has to be focused with full attention to sweep-off nonessential activities and have to be to be corrected by prioritizing to meet the deadlines. USING ROUTE CARD TO RESCHEDULE ACTIVITIES To get updated on the current status on the order, the route cards should be utilized. The latest status can be fed into the computers. In case, the buyer ask for the goods prior to the deadline, then merchandiser has to reorganize the schedules to accomplish tasks, output capacity, no. of
pieces to be produced daily, substitute arrangements, time availability, supply time, scheduling critical ratio, etc. SUBMITTING PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES The pre-production samples should be provided on time to the concerned buyers. Quality of the sample must be verified. If required, revised samples should be made available to the buyers. Merchandiser should adjust to the required changes demanded by the buyer. The execution of bulk orders should be made only after samples are approved by the buyer. In-process inspection denote between any tasks in order-execution. In case of nonconformation, it is better to focus on the concerns of quality. Merchandisers that work on complete orders have to check deviation to the production teams so that any amendments can be done to avoid the non-conformities. SOLVING SHORTAGE PROBLEM The merchandiser should know about the dearth of any commodity such as fabric, yarn, etc. From the beginning actions should be taken immediately to arrange required materials, after discovering the shortage. It is expected that the merchandisers should verify quality of the goods prior to execution of the order. If the material is found unavailable, the superior should be informed about the concern. COMMUNICATING WITH ASSOCIATED PEOPLE AND BUYER It is essential to communicate with the buyers regarding the order. It is expected to give some time to the buyer to read the sent messages. Merchandiser should to go through the messages received from the buyer and reply on time. In many cases, merchandisers have to provide order status to the buyers. Also, merchandiser has to communicate with the people that are in-house, venders, contractors and job-workers. Only through the right communication can one meet deadline for the concerned orders. CONCLUDER REMARK ON MERCHANDISING
Apart from the above mention procedures, merchandiser has to assign subordinates to help him in the order execution, and direct the procedures. He has to revise his knowledge from time-to-time to know current market trends. To record preferences for all the planned activities, use daily or time log systems. The Merchandiser should find out exact reasons for time consumption. It is necessary to keep record of time value and keeping it safe, as it is going to be shared with concerned parties/buyers. It is certain that merchandising jobs need huge time planning.
CHRONOLOGICAL PROCESS OF MERCHANDISING

(A). Salesman Samples, Counter Samples, Approval Samples, Photo Samples, Preproduction Samples, Production Samples, Shipping Samples.
(B). Swatch and Trims, Trims related Affairs, Communication in international Business.
Sample: Reference garment corresponds to -
The artwork (styling) done by designer and/ or developer Particular purchase order Any revision to the style work Confirm with any specific requirement etc.
SEQUENCE OF SAMPLE
Name of Sampling 1st Pattern 2nd Pattern Counter Sample Sales Man Sample PHOTO Sample Approval Sample (Size Set, Mock-up) Pre-production Sample Production Sample Shipping Sample
FIRST PATTERN
First physical version of any garment as per the artwork is done by designer or developer. HUMAN MIND > SKETCH > PAPER PATTERN > SAMPLE Purpose: See the DESIGN work & test the FITTING Status: Nothing specific Material: Available Price: Not conformed Quantity: 1 (for customer) + 1 (for Merchandiser) Delivery: As per URENGECY
SECOND PATTERN
Usually designer/ developer always ask for some changes to the first pattern. Second pattern is made as per comments.
COUNTER SAMPLE
Where first pattern is made on designers artwork, Counter sample is to make not on designers artwork, has to follow another sample given by the merchandiser.
Purpose: See the workmanship &test the factory skill Status: Nothing specific Material: Available Price: Not conformed Quantity: 1 (for customer) + 1 (for self-keeping) Delivery: As per request
SALES MAN SAMPLE:

Sample is made when price is confirmed and orders are on speculation, usually in L size in all color combinations of expected order. Buyer arranges a meeting with its customer and records their response on order quantity per color, size etc. and finally place order to their vendor.
Purpose: Sales Meeting by Retailers, Market Appraisal, Demand / Order forecast Status: Final stage of the order confirmation Material: Actual Price: Confirmed Quantity: There is minimum quantity per color combination Delivery: Very important to meet the delivery date.
PHOTO SAMPLE
Samples are made with actual color and material to be worn by the models on the event of shooting for catalog.
APPROVAL SAMPLE
In any discrete period of time, whenever it required any revision in the sample, a new sample is made (sometimes mock-up is workable too) as per new specification. It is sent to buyer for his approval of the conformity that- the revision is done correctly.
SIZE SET
In size set, consists of 1 piece from each size for each color combination.
MOCK UP
Any part of the garment to make for particular purpose, not complete garment. Sometimes it is necessary to send to the buyer any part of the garments, such as sleeve, collar, neck etc and some accessories.
PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLE
When material for bulk production arrived, factory makes a sample with the actual material and sends to buyer.
PRODUCTION SAMPLE
It is a reference to the buyer that the bulk is being produced as per specification. Buyer wants to be assured that correct material is sourced and line workmanship confirm to the quality.
SHIPPING SAMPLE
A sample is kept from every Pre Shipping inspection to be referred, if required, after the order has been delivered. Usually for any disputes (e.g. Claim) shipping sample is important.
SWATCH
Swatch is a presentation of all the materials is (Fabric & Accessories) used for any specific style/order. Usually small piece of fabric and each piece of accessories are attached in board paper in a systematic manner. Swatch is very important for production line to make the correct construction of a garment and QC department ensures it. Concerned merchandiser should confirm/approve the swatch.
TRIMS
Trims cover all the items used in the garment except the basic fabric. There are hundreds of items used to manufacture the garments, proper selection of trims and its quality are very important for styling, otherwise the garment may be rejected or returned by the customers.
Following is a part of list that covers some names of the trims: Zipper/Fastener Sewing Thread Main Label Flag Label Button Elastic Eyelet Tags Tag pin Plastic clip Sticker Hanger Poly bag Scotch tape Gum tape Photo Board Back Board Tissue Carton. Etc.
COMMUNICATION IN INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS

Telephone Conversation. Fax/ E-Mail
Formal Meeting Lunch & Dinner
THE INFORMATION NORMALLY GETS ABOUT AN ORDER

Factory Loading Factory Capacity Factory History Factory Setup Details Market Reputation Type of Buyers Dealing
HOW A MERCHANDISER MEET BUYERS REQUIREMENTS

Merchandiser detail to buyer about factory profile. Merchandiser Understand the Order sheet. Arrange the all component for order execution. Production Tracking. Timely Shipment.
METHODS OF PURCHASING RAW MATERIALS:

Here fabric and some related accessories are the main raw materials. They are: Lab-Dip Approval the Lab-Dip Collect price Quotation Negotiation P.I. Received
Back to Back L/C transfer Delivery Chelan received
PROCEDURES OF IMPORTED GOODS

Procure of IRC Price Inquiry (Quotation ) P.I. Received and Placing Order L/C Opening Received Shipping Advice Facing Customs Closing Transaction
HOW DOES THE ACCEPTED ORDER IS PASSED ON THE FLOOR

Merchandiser searches the scope of knitting machine according to required Gauge. Make production schedule Trim & Accessories Card Prepare Make well finishing according to buyer requirement in case of Labeling Zippering Buttoning Ironing Packaging Cartooning
HOW A MERCHANDISER TRACK HIS/HER PRODUCTION:

Follow-up yarn supply in factory Knitting follow-up Linking follow-up Accessories supply Finishing follow-up
Ready for export
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING SECTION
INTRODUCTION OF INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING Industrial Engineering is concerned with the design, improvement and installation of integrated system of men, materials and equipment. It draws upon specialized knowledge and skills in the mathematical, physical sciences together with the principles and methods of engineering analysis and design to specify predict and evaluate the results to be obtained from such systems. The prime objective of industrial engineering is to increase the productivity by eliminating waste and non-value adding (unproductive) operations and improving the effective utilization of resources
ACTIVITIES OF INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING 1. Selection of processes and assembling methods. 2. Selection and design of tools and equipment. Design of facilities including plant location, layout of building, machine equipment. 3. Design and improvement of planning and control system for production, invent quality and plant maintenance and distribution systems. 4. Development of time standards, costing and performance standards. 5. Installation of wage incentive schemes. 6. Design and installation of value engineering and analysis system. 7. Operation research including mathematical and statistical analysis. 8. Performance evaluation. 9. Supplier selection and evaluation.
OBJECTIVES OF INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING 1. To establish methods for improving the operations and controlling the production costs. 2. To develop programmers for reducing costs
FUNCTIONS OF AN INDUSTRIAL ENGINEER 1. Developing the simplest work methods and establishing one best way of doing the work. 2. Establishing the performance standards as per the standard methods (Standard Time). 3. To develop a sound wage and incentive schemes. 4. To aiding the development and designing of a sound inventory control, determination of economic lot size and work in process for each stage of production. 5. Development of cost reduction and cost control programmers and to establish standard costing system.
6. Sound selection of site and developing a systematic layout for the smooth flow of work without any interruptions.
TECHNIQUES OF INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING 1. Method study: To establish a standard method of performing a job or an operation after thorough analysis of the jobs and to establish the layout of production facilities to have a uniform flow of material without back tracking. 2. Time study (work measurement): This is a technique used to establish a standard time for a job or for an operation. 3. Motion Economy: This is used to analyses the motions employed by the operators do the work. The principles of motion economy and motion analysis are very useful in mass production or for short cycle repetitive jobs. 4. Value Analysis: It ensures that no unnecessary costs are built into the product and it tries to provide the required functions at the minimum cost. Hence, helps to enhance the worth of the product. 5. Financial and non-financial Incentives: These helps to evolve at a rational compensation for the efforts of the workers. 6. Production, Planning and Control: This includes the planning for the resources (like men, materials and machine) proper scheduling and controlling production activities to ensure the right quantity, quality of product at predetermined time and pre-established cost 7. Inventory Control: To find the economic lot size and the reorder levels for the items so that the item should be made available to the production at the right time and quantity to avoid stock out situation and with minimum capital lock-up. 8. Job Evaluation: This is a technique which is used to determine the relative worth of jobs of the organization to aid in matching jobs and personnel and to arrive at sound wage policy. 9. Material Handling Analysis: To scientifically analysis the movement of materials through various departments to eliminate unnecessary movement to enhance the efficiency of material handling. 10. Ergonomics (Human Engineering): It is concerned with study of relationship between man and his working conditions to minimize mental and physical stress. It is concerned with man-machine system.
IE JOB Profile It was just a couple of years back that demand of an industrial engineer has increased many times. Reason, an Industrial engineer can do a lot to improve performance of the company. But the fresh student passed out from educational institute (Fashion institutes) acquired limited knowledge about the job profile of an Industrial engineer. Maximum works are learnt in factory by working. There is number of tools and techniques which are used in by industrial engineers
to establish an effective production system in the company. Without having such tools earlier production managers and line supervisors faced difficulty in measuring work content, garment costing, and production planning correctly, even it was difficult to finalize orders. Our team has worked to find out important tasks those are important for an engineer, and needs detailed understanding of production fields, included in the following. Though job profile of an Industrial Engineer varies company to company, most of the job profile fall under following list. Knowledge about various sewing production systems Knowledge of all types of Sewing machine necessary for the company Time study (Cycle timing) Motion analysis of the operations Operation break down Preparation of OB (Operation bulletin) SAM Calculation M/C Layout and Work station layout Line Set up (Production estimation of a line) Work Sampling Method Study (Seeing Movements of an operation) WIP Control Line Balancing Capacity study Cost estimation of a garment Developing and Maintaining Skill Matrix Incentives schemes Calculating Thread Consumption Work aids, Guide and Attachment Performance Rating An industrial engineer must have knowledge and skill on each tool and technique. Implementation of all tools at a time is not needed. Engineer has to go step by step. Almost all work study tools and methodology are adopted from others industries and implemented to the garment industry. So each work study tool has guaranteed benefit if it is used effectively.
ORGANOGRAM OF IE DEPARTMENT IN FAKIR APPARELS LTD Manager
Assistant Manager
Senior IE Officer
IE Officer
Assistant IE Officer
Management Trainee
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING TOOLS Lean Manufacturing 5S JIT (Just In Time). Kanban. KAIZEN SOME TERMS AND DEFINITION USED IN IE Work Study
Work study is the systematic examination of the methods of carrying on activities so as to improve the effective use of resources and to set up standards of performance for the activities being carried out. Method Study Method study is the systematic recording and critical examination of ways of doing things in order to make improvements.
Time Study Time study is a work measurement technique for recording the times of performing a certain specific job or its elements carried out under specified conditions, and for analyzing the data so as to obtain the time necessary for an operator to carry it out at a defined rate of performance. Work Measurement Work measurement is the application of techniques designed to establish the time for a qualified worker to carry out a task at a defined rate of working. Work Sampling Work sampling is a method of finding the percentage occurrence of a certain activity by statistical sampling and random observations. Work Content The work content of a job or operation is defined as: basic time + relaxation allowance + any allowance for additional work e.g. that part of contingency allowance which represents work. Time Study Time study is a work measurement technique for recording the times of performing a certain specific job or its elements carried out under specified conditions, and for analyzing the data so as to obtain the time necessary for an operator to carry it out at a defined rate of performance. Qualified Worker A qualified worker is one who has acquired the skill, knowledge and other attributes to carry out the work in hand to satisfactory standards of quantity, quality and safety.
Element An element is a distinct part of a specified job selected for convenience of observation, measurement and analysis. Work Cycle
A work cycle is a sequence of elements which are required to perform a job or yield a unit of production. The sequence may sometimes include occasional elements. Rating Rating is the assessment of the workers rate of working relative to the observers concept of the rate corresponding to standard pace. Standard Performance Standard performance is the rate of output which qualified workers will naturally achieve without over-exertion as an average over the working day or shift, provided that they know and adhere to the specified method and provided that they are motivated to apply themselves to their work. This performance is denoted as 100 on the standard rating and performance scales. Basic Time Basic time is the time for carrying out an element of work at standard rating, i.e. (Observed time x observed rating)/ Standard rating Selected Time The selected time is the time chosen as being representative of a group of times for an element or group of elements. These times may be either observed or basic and should be denoted as selected observed or selected basic time. Relaxation Allowance Relaxation allowance is an addition to the basic time intended to provide the worker with the opportunity to recover from the physiological and psychological effects of carrying out specified work under specified conditions and to allow attention to personal needs. The amount of allowance will depend on the nature of the job. Standard Time Standard time is the total time in which a job should be completed at standard performance. Predetermined Time A predetermined time standard is a work measurement technique whereby times established for basic human motions (classified according to the nature of the motion and the conditions under which it is made) are used to build up the time for a job at a defined level of performance. Work Specifications A work specification is a document setting out the details of an operation or job, how it is to be performed, the layout of the workplace, particulars of machines, tools and appliances to be used, and the duties and responsibilities of the worker. The standard time or allowed time assigned to the job is normally included.
Productivity The definition of Productivity is given as OUTPUT compared to INPUT. According to Marsh, Brush (2002) in his article Journal of industrial technology, productivity is a measure of the efficiency and effectiveness to which organizational resources (inputs) are utilized for the creation of products and/or services (outputs). Productivity measurement is both a measure of input utilization and an assessment as to whether or not input utilization is growing faster than output.
SOME IMPORTANT FORMULA 1. BPT (Basic Pitch Time) = 2. SPT (Standard Pitch Time) 3. LPT (Lowest Pitch Time) 4. Capacity 5. BMV (Basic Minute Value) = BPT(Basic Pitch Time) 1.05 = = = Observed Time
6. SMV (Standard Minute Value) = Observed Time 1.05 7. Input Hour 8. Output Hour 9. Target 10.Efficiency 11.Performance = Operator Working Hour = = = = 100% 100
12.Productivity
13.Worker Potential Pcs/Hour
QUALITY ASSURANCE
QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM

Quality control: Quality control concerned with the evaluation of test data & its application of the textile process, raw materials, intermediate products & final products. It is related not only with the cost of maintaining but also concerned with the presentation of tangible values to measure quality & change in quality. In order to control quality one must know about the consumers expectations. Quality assurance: Quality assurance is defined as all those possible planned & systematic actions necessary to provide adequate confidence than a product or service will satisfy given requirements for quality. The Quality Assurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the material in process & various stages of its manufacturing. Object of quality control: 1. Research/ analysis. 2. Selection of raw material. 3. Product testing. 4. Specification test. 5. Should be given economic requirements. 6. Quality assurance & so on. Quality Management System: Quality assurance procedure may be provided by the following two major parts Quality control
On line
Off line
ON LINE QUALITY CONTROL: On line quality control comprises with the new raw material, process control & finish fabric inspection. 1. Raw material control: As the quality product depends upon the raw material quality assurance department must ensure that the best quality of raw material are used in the production. a. The chemical should be with a known concentration & high degree of purity. b. The dye & chemical should be compatible with each other. c. The fabric must be without faults, with uniform absorbency, & whiteness as per requirement of the subsequent process.
2. Process control: The method chosen for the process must be provided with the necessary parameters, Temperature, PH, water level, Specific gravity should be checked at each stage of processes. a. During dyeing samples are taken, & shade match with lab dip & when match allow for bath drop. b. If not properly match topping is done until the required shade come. c. After neutralization sample is collected & match with lab dip. d. Sample is collected after fixation & matched. e. Last of all after softening sample is collected & match with lab dip. f. Each batch should be match with each other. g. During finishing temperature, speed, padder pressure, over feed should be controlled as per recommendation. h. G.S.M, width, spirality etc should be maintained as per buyer requirement. 3. Finish Fabric Inspection: To ensure that only acceptable quality fabric is used for producing garments & proper quantity of shipment is received from the supplier. POINT CALCULATION SYSTEM: Defect area 13 36 69 9 above For hole in fabric Calculation of point is done by Actual grade point = Point 1 2 3 4 4
100
If point grade is below 40 then the fabric is ok. If the grade point is more than the 40 points then inform it to respective officer. The fabric is also checking for the shading defect in side by side & length. Any nonconformilities/ shading will be notified to the manager using inspected reports. Roll wise color uniformity card is maintained for identification of shade variations. The result of fabric inspection shall be recorded in fabric inspection report.
ON-LINE TEST:
1. For pretreatment PH test. Absorbency test. Residual peroxide test.
Whiteness test. Water quality test. 2. For Dyeing Shade matching check. PH check. Wash fastness check. 3. Machine checking. OFF-LINE QUALITY CONTROL: Fakir apparels limited have all the facility for off-line quality control of the materials used & processed materials. There are two types of material are tested in laboratory for the purpose of quality control. There are a. Fabric b. Raw materials.
Fabric testing: All the off-line tests for finished can be grouped as follows a. Physical tests. b. Chemical tests. a. Physical test: Fabric inspection by-4 point system. GSM test. Width of the fabric measure. Rubbing test. Pilling test. Shrinkage test. b. Chemical test: Color fastness to water. Color fastness to wash. Color fastness to rubbing. Color fastness to perspiration etc. Raw material: a. Water b. Chemical : PH & Hardness test. : Purity test.
MAINTENANCE
Maintenance is carried out by electrical & mechanical departments. It is a process by which equipment is looked after to give the best service of it. Machine, building, etc are subjected to deterioration due to the use & expose to environmental condition. In industry it is carried out regularly after a certain period of time to extent their life time in such a way that it is economically & physically possible to do so. Now a days maintenance is essential for the modern time industrialization. OBJECTIVES OF MAINTENANCE: a. To avoid any kind of accident by checking the m/c parts & changing the parts which are damaged. b. To ensure production & delivery time to customer. c. To avoid the breakdown of m/c to facilitate the smooth running of production. d. To get the maximum constant production from m/c. e.To modify the machine tools to meet the need for production. TYPES OF MAINTENANCE: Maintenance
Periodic Mechanical
Preventive Mechanical Electrical
Breakdown Mechanical Electrical
Electrical
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE: Periodic maintenance of different machines is carried out by expert engineer period of time. Normally in case of dyeing machine, complete checking of different important parts are done after 30 days. PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE: Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine wise maintenance to prevent any kind of accident or breakdown of m/c which facilitates smooth running of production.
Breakdown Maintenance: It is done when any kind of m/c part is out of order or broken & it cannot perform its normal functions.
FLOWCHART OF MAINTENANCE (BREAKDOWN): Problem arise Inform to maintenance department Problem detection Problem can be solved by repairing or replace.
MAINTENANCE TOOLS:
The most important maintenance tools are given below Tools Thread tape Cutting disc Globe valve Union Union Elbow Gear oil Cutting oil Hydraulic oil. Oil gun Spanner Master range Flat/ Star screw driver Hacksaw blade Spray gun Drill m/c Grinding m/c Hacksaw Frame Grease Function Joining of broken metallic part. For cutting pipes, rods. Fitting for steam line. Fitting for water, steam line. Fitting water steam line. Lubrication. Lubrication Lubrication Oil application Tightening of nut, bolts. Tightening of nut, bolts. Screw tightening & loosening Cutting. Spray chemicals To make hole by drilling. Grinding Cutting Lubrication
MAINTENANCE PROCEDURE OF DIFFERENT MACHINE: Machine: Dyeing machine Maintenance: Mechanical
Serial no 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13
Items need to be checked & service Grease the winch bearing Complete cleaning of machine. Cleaning of drained valves, replace scale if required. Check air supply filters, regulator, & auto drain seals. Greasing of unloading rollers bearing Checking of oil levels, & bolts, of unloading roller gear box. Complete cleaning of machine. Checking unloading roller coupling. Checking & cleaning of main vessel level indicator. Check the oil level pump bearing & refill if required. Check the function of heat & cool modulating valves. Check all belts & belt tension. Check all door seals.
MAINTENANCE: Electrical Serial no 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Items need to be checked & service Check main panels. Check all on/ off switch. Check all indicating lamps. Check calibration of heating/ cooling modulating valves. Check setting of sensor. Check setting & operation of lid safety switches. Check all motors terminal Visual checking of all power & central cables. Check all circuit breaker & motor overload. Check all signal isolators. Check main pump inverter & its cooling fan.
UTILITY SERVICE
Utility Gas Electricity Compressed air Steam Water Temp. control Sources TITAS Generator Compressor Boiler Natural water by pump Air chiller.
ELECTRICITY
Source No. of generator Brand Origin Model Utility Capacity Gas consumption COMPRESSED AIR: Source Compressor Brand Fin. Origin Germany. GAS: Generally 2500 CFT gas is required to produce 1 ton steam /hr. This amount gas is supplied by TITAS. Water: submersible water is used by using pump. Generator. 6 Waukesha power steam USA VHP 5904 GSD Natural gas, water, Lubricating Mobil 900 Kw-1165A 11 Psi
WATER TREATMENT PLANT In Fakir Apparels Ltd they use submersible water. Natural ground water contains many impurities which has negative impact on the wet processing technology. The various salts present in the water depend on the geological formations through which the water has followed. These salts are mainly the carbonates (CO32), bi-carbonates (HCO3) chlorides (Cl) of Calcium (Ca2+), Magnesium (Mg2+). Although Calcium & Magnesium carbonates in the limestone are relatively insoluble in water. So in this reasons, water hardness can be divided in two ways
Temporary Hardness: Ca (HCO3)2, Mg (HCO3)2 , Fe (HCO3)2 etc. Permanent Hardness: CaCl2, MgCl2, Ca (NO3)2, MgSO4, CaSO4. This water hardness causes some serious consequence in textile dyeing & finishing industries & this are 1. Precipitation of soap. 2. Redeposit ion of dirt & insoluble soaps on the fabric being washed this can cause yellowing & lead to uneven dyeing & poor handle. 3. Scale formation on equipment & in boiler pipe lines. 4. Reduction of the activity of the enzymes used in washing. 5. Incompatibility with chemicals & so on. Hardness is expressed by parts per million (ppm) of CaCO3 which is standard hardness scale & it is also called American Hardness. The hardness of raw water is 100 ppm or more. To use it in dyeing & in boiler this water must need to soft & foreign materials needs to remove. METHODS OF WATER SOFTENING: There are mainly three methods by which hardness of water is removed in Industrial scale 1. Lime-Soda process. 2. Base Exchange process (Permutit process). 3. Demineralization process. Above these three processes, Fakir Apparels Ltd used the Base Exchange Process. By the help of pump hard water is collected from the water store tank. Water treatment is done in three steps by three filter tanks. FIRST STEP: water collected by the two parallel pump is followed to the stone filter for filtration. Stone filter consists of six layers of stone of different size & shape. Stone filter helps to remove iron from the water. There is a dosing pump attach with the stone filter for the dosing of sodium hypo chloride. During stone filtration sodium hypo chloride is added to resist the deposition of iron on stone layers which might be rigid & hamper smooth operation. SECOND STEP: After completion of stone filtration water is fed to active carbon filter for second filtration for the removal of odor, oily, or gummy substances from water. THIRD STEP: At the end of the carbon filtration water is flowed to the resin filter for final filtration. Here hard water is treated with base exchange complex or zeolites to remove the hardness from water. Zeolites are naturally occurring insoluble mineral of Sodium alumina silicate type complex (Na20.Z, Z= Al2O3SiO2, H2O). When water is passed through a bed of the small particles of such material ion exchanger an ion exchange reaction take place Na20.Z + Ca (HCO3)2 CaOZ + 2NaHCO3 Na20.Z + MgSO4 MgOZ +Na2SO4. Here the base part ( Ca, Mg, Fe) of hard water are replaced by Na. result is the salt of Ca, Mg, Fe & soften the water. After a certain period of times whole sodium of base exchanger is replaced
Ca, Mg, Fe then it is said to be exhausted because it will not soften hard water anymore & then it is regenerated by NaCl. CaOZ + 2 NaCl CaCl2 + Na20.Z. Final filtration makes the water finally soft & drains it to the soft water reserve tank with the help of a drain bulb. For the supply of soft water to the floor a pressure vessel is used. A minimum pressure of (4-5 kg/cm3) is maintained in the pressure vessel for calculation. SEQUENCE OF WATER TREATMENT PLANT IS GIVEN BELOW Hard water store tank Solution of NaCl
Primary filtration Zeolities Stone filtration Soft water delivery
Figure: Water treatment plant MEASUREMENT OF WATER HARDNESS: Necessary equipment & chemicals 1. Buffer soln. 2. Indicator. 3. Liquid EDTA soln. 4. Beaker. PROCEDURE: Take 50 ml water in a beaker which is treated by WTP- plant Take 4-5 drops of buffer soln in a beaker. Take 1 drop indicator in a beaker & form the violet color. Now EDTA soln is dropped until the pink color is not form a crystal color Here 1 drop EDTA soln =3 ppm.
Remarks: In industry hardness depends on the type of shade. For light, medium, & dark shades hardness remain < 5, or <9 or < 12 ppm respectively by using sequestering agent ( Ladiquiest, Neo-crystal 150F etc).
STORE & INVENTORY

INVENTORY: Inventory in a wider sense defined as any idle resources or assets of an organization, however it is commonly used to indicate raw materials, finished, semi-finished, packing, spears & other stocked in order to meet an expected demand on distribution. Even though inventory of materials is an idle resource in the sense & is not meant for the most immediate use but it is almost necessary to maintain some inventories for the smooth function of an organization. CAUSES OF MAINTAIN INVENTORY: 1. To run manufacturing operations economically. 2. To take care of uncertainties demand. 3. To reduce the clerical cost & to take advantage of discounts, transportation etc. 4. It takes time to complete one operation & more products from one stage to another. 5. To take care of order cycles. SCOPE OF INVENTORY CONTROL: 1. Raw materials inventories. 2. In process inventories. 3. Finished goods inventories. 4. Miscellaneous inventories. Etc. FREQUENCY OF INVENTORY CONTROL: 1. Daily inventory control. 2. Monthly inventory control. 3. Yearly inventory control. PROCUREMENT SYSTEM: a. Fakir dyes & chemical is sister concern of Fakir Apparels Ltd. so Dyes (mostly used like Sumifix, Cibacron & Remazol dyes) & chemical (regular items like Sequestering agent, Anticreasing agent, Anti-foaming, Levelling agents, Stabilizer etc) are collected from there. b. Some dyes are purchased from local market if urgently required. INVENTORY MANAGEMENT FOR RAW MATERIAL: In Fakir Apparels Ltd there are different inventory systems are maintained for different materials. GREY FABRIC STORE: All the grey fabric is stored in the fabric store near the knitting section. Different types of fabric are listed in the sheet according to fabric types, quantity, & consumers requirement. DYES & CHEMICAL STORE: There is a different store for dyes & chemicals. Varies types of dyes & chemicals are stored here according to dyes & chemicals companies. Different types of dyes & chemicals are listed in a sheet. In the sheet the stored quantity of dyes & chemicals are also included. Every day the
sheet is updated & a copy of this sheet is supplied to the factory manager, Dyeing manager, & Dye house & Lab section. FINISHED FABRIC STORE: In Fakir Apparels Ltd finished fabric are sent to the garments section. After use in the garments excess fabrics are stored in finish fabric store according to the lot no, quantity, order no, fabrics diameter, buyers name color, size other considering technical parameters. FINISHED GOODS STORE: In garment section during production they always consider some allowances%. After shipment the remaining garments are stored in the finished goods store to the product name, order name, color name, & other subjected points. SPARE PARTS STORE: In Fakir Apparels Ltd required amount of spears of different machines are stored in the mechanical store room. All the spears are listed in a sheet which is controlled by the mechanical & maintenance personnel. Spares are arranged in the store room according to their size, quantity, & requirements. There are shelves in the store room to keep the small spare parts. STORE CAPACITY: Items Dyes Chemicals Yarn storage Grey fabric Finished fabric Amount 10-12 tons 20-25 tons 10-15 tons 20-25tons 30-35tons
REORDER POINT: The re-order point is stated in terms of the level of inventory at which an order should be placed for maintaining the current inventory. In other words, re-order point may be defined as the level of inventory when fresh order should be placed with supplies for procuring additional inventory equal to the economic order quantity.
COST ANALYSIS
COSTING SYSTEM: Cost means the price of the product or goods which include some profit for the supplies or manufacturer or seller. Costing system mainly describe the cost of final product according to the buyer requirement by keeping some profit for the company. As it is a garments manufacturing company merchandiser give the consumption of fabric with specifications. Then how much yarn is required dyestuff & chemicals required, labors, utility services & other things related with manufacturing are calculated. After this the final cost is fixed including some profit & the unit price is offered to the buyer for their approval.
COST INCLUDES FOLLOWINGS: Yarn cost. Knitting cost. Dyes & chemicals cost. Cost of dyeing & finishing. Cost of cutting, sewing, accessories etc. Cost of printing (if required). Labor cost (direct & indirect). Factory cost. Office & administrative cost Caring cost Other cost. Profit etc.
PRICE OF DIFFERENT OPERATION: Dyeing + finishing charge for light shade Dyeing + finishing charge for medium shade Dyeing + finishing charge for dark shade Tube finishing (Dewatering+ Dryer+ Compactor)
: 80~90 tk/Kg : 85~90 tk/Kg : 100~110 tk/Kg :15~20 tk/Kg
REMARKS: The costing of the product is most secret matter of the industry. They are not interested to flash the data. So we could not collect the costing process of the products.
MARKETING STRATEGY
MARKETING INFORMATION: Fakir Apparels Ltd is 100% export oriented knit garments manufacturer. So, they sold their product to export market. They also same initiative for market development through communicating with new buyer & taking part in different international garments fair. As it is an apparels manufacturing industry, its main product is T-shirt, polo-shirt, Tank tops, children wear, fashion wear & sports wear etc. Fakir Apparels Ltd ensures safe/ health hazard chemical free garments as per customer requirements, through practice of quality control procedure.
MARKETING STRATEGY:
Now days the marketing strategy is key feature for a export oriented company. If the marketing strategy is not good then it is not possible to survive in the competitive global market. In case of marketing the garments a good dealing with the buyer is very important. In Fakir Apparels Ltd mainly the merchandising department & the higher officers deals with the buyer. The company has some fixed buyers. These buyers give their order continuously all over the year. The marketing officers & the merchandising department communicate with the buying house all the year. MAJOR BUYER: 1. H & M. 2. C & A. 3. Tom Tailor. 4. Ahlens. 5. S.oliver. 6. All marks. 7. Peacock 8. G-star. 9. Kids etc. EXPORTED COUNTRY: Europe & USA.
CONCLUSION
We have completed our industrial attachment successfully by the grace of Allah. Industrial attachment sends us to the expected destiny of practical life. The completion of the two months Industrial attachment at Fakir Apparels Limited, we have got the impression that factory is one of the most modern export oriented knit composite complex in Bangladesh. Though it was established only a few years ago, it has earned very good reputations for its best performance over many other export or iented textile mills. During our training period, talking with the clients of this mill we knew that the mill is fulfilling the countrys best export oriented white finished fabric as well as very good colored fabric due to its modern machinery & good management system. Mill is settled with utility to give all convenient supports to the productions for twenty-four hours. It had self-power generator system to satisfy total power consumptions of the mill. We are enough fortunate that we have got an opportunity of having a training in this mill. During the training period we are received co-operation and association from the authority full & found all man, machines & materials on appreciable working condition. All stuffs & officers were very sincere & devoted their duties to achieve their goal. There are some suggestions from us within our limited knowledge Some Suggestions: The dyeing floor is watery most of the time: it should be cleaned all the time. To increase overall efficiency, more skilled labor should be used in a project. The machine stoppage time should be analyzed and minimized. The maintenance should be carried out when the machine is out of action (wherever possible) and routine maintenance should be carried out regularly. There should be a yarn dyeing project. Sitting arrangement of production officers should be improved The knitting section should improve and modern machinery should add.
BIBLIOGRAPHY http://www.fakirapparels.com http://www.textielglossary.com http://www.textilelearner.com http://www.fiber2fashio.com http://www.slideshare.com http://www.OCS.com

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ATISH DIPANKAR UNIVERSITY OF SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY

Date of Submission: 11th January, 2014

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Subject: Submission of Internship report

Attachment at Fakir Apparels Limited as per the supervisors instruction .I expect

Apparels Limited submitted by us to Fakir Apparels Limited, in partial fulfillment of the

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

This is to certify that the internship report on Industrial Attachment at Fakir

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

OVER VIEW OF THE FACTORY

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Proper batching Criteria Batch Management

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

79 80 80-81 81-83 83-84 85 86 87 88-89 90 91-92 93 93 93 93 94 94-95 95 95 96 96 97

GARMENTS CUTTING SECTION

101 102 102-103 Page 9

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

118 119 119

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING SECTION

121 121 121 121 122 Page 10

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

122-123 124 124 124-126 127 128

QUALITY ASSURANCE SECTION

STORE AND INVENTORY

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Inventory Management for Raw Material

141-142 143 144 144 144

145 146 146 146 146 147 148

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

GENERAL INFORMATION OF THE FACTORY

Name of the Factory Type Year of Establishment Factory location

Total Space Employee

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Wrap Gold Certificate

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

DEPARTMENTS RELATED WITH PRODUCTION

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

ORGANOGRAM OF KNITTING SECTION:

Asst. Production officer Junior Production Officer Suppervisor

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Raw Material for Knitting

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Cloth Inspection Section:

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

MACHINE LIST OF KNITTING SECTION IN FAL:

SPECIFICATION OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

Others Machines in Knitting Section:

Industrial Attachment On FAKIR APPARELS LIMITED

SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS IN KNITTING SECTION

Fabric Inspection Send To Batching Section

Blue (b) Black L=0