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carburetor tuning after fixing k&n airfilter

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Thread: carburetor tuning after fixing k&n airfilter

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01-05-2012, 08:58 PM

kaz
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carburetor tuning after fixing k&n airfilter hi guys i'm kinda bothered about my bike(fz16) after fixing it a new k&n air filter my self is that need any carburetor tuning if so gime a demo (because i'm not able to atain even 100km/hr )

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Last edited by Samarth 619; 05-18-2012 at 07:42 PM.

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01-06-2012, 02:12 AM Ri$hi

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If its a stock replacement filter You don't need to or else You need to tune the carb. When You install the k&n filter more air will be flowing and it will make fuel, air mixture lean and You will have trouble in cold start as well.

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01-06-2012, 06:16 PM

mpasanthosh
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Originally Posted by kaz

hi guys i'm kinda bothered about my bike(fz16) after fixing it a new k&n air filter my self is that need any carburetor tuning if so gime a demo (because i'm not able to atain even 100km/hr )

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Sep 2009 C hennai 61 0 Post(s) 0 Thread(s)

Yes you do have to tune your carb for better performance. I think the K&N filter allows more air to flow making your mixture lean. Try the steps beolow, i got it from the net to tune my carb.Hope it helps you.ITs better you get this done from a mech.

Turn the idle settings screw so that rpm reaches about 3000 rpm. Now tune the air/fuel screw to make the mixture leanest as possible. Please refer to the above whether you must turn the screw clockwise or anti clockwise. same time, ensure that the engine does not stall, by turning the idle-screw. Tough huh? Youll get used to it

As you make the mixture leaner, slowly the engine RPM decreases Go on doing this until you have put the fuel screw to the leanest possible point. At the

OK the engine is running and the mixture is lean. If you notice from the engine sound OR if you see the tachometer, the engine RPM will not be steady at t

point. Now very slowly start turning the fuel screw anti-clockwise, quarter to 1/8th turn at a time. You will notice that the RPM increases slowly and stead Again, do this very very slowly. Also count the total number of turns as you wind out the screw. more. This probably is the optimal setting for your engine. are just putting in a too rich mixture in your engine. At this point the engine loses all the fuel efficiency and the mixture is not optimal. Repeat the process about 2-3 times. Count the revolutions each time and get the setting which you feel is correct.

Youll notice that when you have turned it to about 3-4 full revolutions, the engine RPM slowly becomes constant. It is this point that you must stop screwi

Further on, try turning the screw even more and more to 5-7 revolutions and youll notice that the engine RPM will slowly decrease. When this happens, yo

OK the engine is humming perfectly, now what? Decrease the idle setting screw to about 1000rpm in the tachometer. When the engine slows down, just t

the throttle. The response should be crisp and quick. It should not give any hiccups! Try shutting off the engine and restarting. The engine MUST start in a

single kick or self with out giving throttle. If this happens, the setting is ok. Now get a ride and youll notice the difference for good or bad Youll immediately notice change in the engine sound and the throttle response. Your engine can become more smooth or harsh. Another important point i Ride and Feel. Always take a ride and get the feel of the bike in each gears, check the response and the engine sound. Youll quickly come to know once yo get the feel of the bike that you want to make the mixture rich or lean. It may take a few iterations before you fix a setting as permanent. Try calculating the mileage per liter and tally it with your setting and the feeling you ge

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01-06-2012, 07:32 PM RanjithMN

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Have you fixed it directly to the Carb? Anyway you will need to UpJet.Try a richer AFR first anyway,if not enough then upjet the MAIN JET to Unicorns 115,if not enough again to the P180's 117.5 FZ's stock MAIN Jet is 112.5

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01-10-2012, 05:02 AM Ri$hi

Rusted Join Date: Location: Posts: Mentioned: Tagged: Sep 2011 C hennai 354 0 Post(s) 0 Thread(s)

Carb tuning has to be done only by a professional, carburetor is a vital part of the bike, tampering with the air screw settings will make your bike unsafe to ride. Even many experienced mechs think twice before tuning the carb.

Last edited by Ri$hi; 01-10-2012 at 06:40 PM. rohan30 likes this.

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01-12-2012, 04:37 PM nirvaana

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To add to mpasanthosh's points, plz ensure tat the engine is thoroughly warmed up before u try setting the AFR. Ride the bike for around 5 kms for this.

@Rishi - i accept this is a tough task but in lesser means unsafe. Most of the bikes are serviced/tuned at local mech shops n all know how experienced the mechs are. How many incidents hv u heard of due to improper tuning? Mastering this skill may take time but will surely come in handy
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02-01-2012, 10:31 AM hemank

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Originally Posted by mpasanthosh

Yes you do have to tune your carb for better performance. I think the K&N filter allows more air to flow making your mixture lean. Try the steps beolow, i got it from the net to tune my carb.Hope it helps you.ITs better you get this done from a mech. Turn the idle settings screw so that rpm reaches about 3000 rpm. Now tune the air/fuel screw to make the mixture leanest as possible. Please refer to the above whether you must turn the screw clockwise or anti clockwise. As you make the mixture leaner, slowly the engine RPM decreases Go on doing this until you have put the fuel screw to the leanest possible point. At the same time, ensure that the engine does not stall, by turning the idle-screw. Tough huh? Youll get used to it OK the engine is running and the mixture is lean. If you notice from the engine sound OR if you see the tachometer, the engine RPM will not be steady at this point. Now very slowly start turning the fuel screw anti-clockwise, quarter to 1/8th turn at a time. You will notice that the RPM increases slowly and steadily. Again, do this very very slowly. Also count the total number of turns as you wind out the screw. Youll notice that when you have turned it to about 3-4 full revolutions, the engine RPM slowly becomes constant. It is this point that you must stop screwing more. This probably is the optimal setting for your engine. Further on, try turning the screw even more and more to 5-7 revolutions and youll notice that the engine RPM will slowly decrease. When this happens, you are just putting in a too rich mixture in your engine. At this point the engine loses all the fuel efficiency and the mixture is not optimal. Repeat the process about 2-3 times. Count the revolutions each time and get the setting which you feel is correct. OK the engine is humming perfectly, now what? Decrease the idle setting screw to about 1000rpm in the tachometer. When the engine slows down, just twist the throttle. The response should be crisp and quick. It should not give any hiccups! Try shutting off the engine and restarting. The engine MUST start in a single kick or self with out giving throttle. If this happens, the setting is ok. Now get a ride and youll notice the difference for good or bad Youll immediately notice change in the engine sound and the throttle response. Your engine can become more smooth or harsh. Another important point is, Ride and Feel. Always take a ride and get the feel of the bike in each gears, check the response and the engine sound. Youll quickly come to know once you get the feel of the bike that you want to make the mixture rich or lean. It may take a few iterations before you fix a setting as permanent. Try calculating the mileage per liter and tally it with your setting and the feeling you get.

Thanks a lot! I'm gonna try this.

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02-17-2012, 01:38 PM Trimbak

Rookie Join Date: Location: Posts: Mentioned: Tagged: Feb 2012 Mumbai 6 0 Post(s) 0 Thread(s)

More info Hi,

I added a K&N R 1100 to my P-135 . Yes everyone has been right about how badly one has to, has to tune the carb, as the air fuel ratio changes after installing performance air filter. I had clocked 127 kmph (when my bike was relatively new) and wish to click 135 kmph plus, hence the mods are on . Wi K&N added i could barely clock 113 - 117 kmph range . I have searched a hell lot online and in the streets of mumbai for a reliable mech, didnt find any. I reached a conclusion to tune it myself. In the above method mentioned you didnt talk about getting bigger jet size, will just tunning(with no jet size increase) help? Also please upload snaps of procedure to tune as well as add new jets as i want to do it myself. Onr question for carb experts > if i am going to ladhak this year will i have to change settings of my carb as altitude rises(thin/ less air)?

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05-17-2012, 02:33 PM puneetritehere

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^^^ hmm.. i dont know about the prices, but then you could rather try getting your hand on a fuel injection system to completely rid yourself of any hassle but initially even the fuel injection will have to be programmed to know the correct air fuel mixture in the thin air of leh ladakh.. not all fuel injections may h preset configs for optimum air fuel ratio at such heights..

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05-18-2012, 04:21 AM

princesirohi
Rusted

Originally Posted by Trimbak

Hi, I added a K&N R 1100 to my P-135 . Yes everyone has been right about how badly one has to, has to tune the carb, as the air fuel ratio changes after installing performance air filter. I had clocked 127 kmph (when my bike was relatively new) and wish to click 135 kmph plus, hence the mods are on . With K&N added i could barely clock 113 - 117 kmph range . I have searched a hell lot online and in the streets of mumbai for a reliable mech, didnt find any. I have reached a conclusion to tune it myself.
Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Aamby Valley C ity, Lonavala, Pune. Posts: 6,373 Blog Entries: 1 Mentioned: 38 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)

In the above method mentioned you didnt talk about getting bigger jet size, will just tunning(with no jet size increase) help? Also please upload snaps of the procedure to tune as well as add new jets as i want to do it myself. Onr question for carb experts > if i am going to ladhak this year will i have to change settings of my carb as altitude rises(thin/ less air)?

you need to upjet it for that K&N, to get any significant benifits, its a trial and error method unless someone already know the correct jet size for your bike

Originally Posted by puneetritehere

^^^ hmm.. i dont know about the prices, but then you could rather try getting your hand on a fuel injection system to completely rid yourself of any hassles.. but initially even the fuel injection will have to be programmed to know the correct air fuel mixture in the thin air of leh ladakh.. not all fuel injections may have preset configs for optimum air fuel ratio at such heights..

Closed Loop FI system has a air intake (O2) sensor and adjusts automatically. Open loop systems have no such sensor, and hence can't adjust itself to suit the airflow. Similarly, Even Closed loop Fi systems might have a limit, like 20% more fuel possible, beyond which it will just display an engine malfunction light on the console or not work properly.

Last edited by Samarth 619; 05-18-2012 at 07:45 PM. Reason: added/ corrected some info.

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