Professional Documents
Culture Documents
DILLARDS
AVAIL A BLE AT R ALPH L AUREN S TORES , R ALPHL AUREN.COM AND THE FINES T E YE W E A R AND SUNGL A SS BOUTIQUES
DFINICILS
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Julia Roberts
True PDF release: storemags & fantamag
Volumetry: a new dimension in lifting. Lift, rm, reshape. See youthful contours return.
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Kate Winslet
True PDF release: storemags & fantamag
NEW YORK BEVERLY HILLS CHICAGO ATLANTA AUSTIN BAL HARBOUR BOSTON DALLAS HOUSTON KING OF PRUSSIA LAS VEGAS MANHASSET ORLANDO SCOTTSDALE SOUTH COAST PLAZA TYSONS GALLERIA WESTCHESTER DAVIDYURMAN.COM
D.YURMAN 2010
maybelline.com
M AY B E SH ES B OR N W I T H I T. M AY B E I TS MA Y B E L L I N E.
Emily is wearing Color Sensational Lipcolor in Red Revival. 2010 Maybelline LLC. . *Based on IRI InfoScan data for unit and dollar sales of red lipsticks during 9/6/09 1/24/10.
LIPCOLOR
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ELLE CALENDAR
Drawing fashion (left to right): Mats Gustafson, Red Dress , Yohji Yamamoto, 1999/courtesy of the London Design Museum; Antonio, Karl Lagerfeld, Vogue France, 1972/courtesy of the London Design Museum; GoldenEye Hotel and Resort: courtesy of the location; Elf : New Line/courtesy Everett Collection; Turner: Kevin Mazur/WireImage; turkey: Gary Vestal/GettyImages; zombies: courtesy of the Everett Collection; Michael Jackson: The Making of Thriller : Douglas Kirkland, all rights reserved/courtesy of Filipacchi Publishing; Unstoppable: courtesy of FOX; McHale: Frederick M.Brown/Getty Images; Carolla: Timothy Norris/Getty Images; Cho: Jason Laveris/FilmMagic; ODonnell: Bruce Glikas/FilmMagic; Ansari: Kevin Mazur/WireImage
From NYCs gut-busting comedy fest to Broadways holiday kick startELLE plans the agenda
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Friday, November 12
Wednesday, November 3
TOTALLY SKETCHY Londons Design Museum will showcase approximately 150 fashion illustrations of vintage collections (starting from the turn of the twentieth century) such as Chanel, Alexander McQueen, Viktor & Rolf, and Dior as part of their Drawing Fashion exhibition. designmuseum.org
UNDER THE RADAR Ian Fleming wrote all 14 of his James Bond novels at Island Outposts GoldenEye Hotel & Resort in Jamaicawhich reopens today after Island Records founder Chris Blackwells major renovationso its no surprise that Johnny Depp and Grace Jones have sought out the private waterfront villas and cottages when they want to go undercover. islandoutpost.com/goldeneye
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CHRISTMAS COMES EARLY The musical adaptation of Will Ferrells slaphappy 2003 holiday comedy Elf opens tonight on the Great White Way for a limited run and features George Wendt aswho else?Santa.
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BIRTHDAY
Friday, November 26
HAPPY
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Thursday, November 25
BYE-BYE BIRDIE
ANSARI
Happy Thanksgiving
MCHALE
WASHINGTON
FUNNY PEOPLE Today begins the seventh annual New York Comedy Festival, a five-day laugh marathon starring stand-ups such as Joel McHale, Margaret Cho, Aziz Ansari, and Rosie ODonnell. nycomedyfestival.com
Friday, November 12
Tuesday, November 30
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ELLE
CRAZY TRAIN Chris Pine, Denzel Washington, and Rosario Dawson star in director Tony Scotts Unstoppable, a white-knuckle action-thriller about a toxicchemical-filled locomotive thats, by the way, missing its air brakes.
Twenty-seven years after the release of Michael Jacksons iconic Thrillermusic video, photographer Douglas Kirkland releases Michael Jackson: The Making of Thriller (Filipacchi), a book of never-before-seen images (showing everything from the makeup chair to breaks between takes) of the King of Pops four-day video shoot.
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Eye OnYouth
Introducing The Eye Balm Intense
Feel the change, see the transformation. Featuring a potent concentration of La Mers original Miracle Broth and the new Marine DePuff Ferment, The Eye Balm Intense comforts on contact then penetrates deep below skins surface for a remarkable change. Puffiness looks smoothed. Lines and wrinkles appear diminished. The utmost in clarity is revealed. www.LaMer.com
Available from
NORDSTROM CHANEL.COM
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
page 160
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FASHION
Creative Director JOE ZEE shows five up-andcomers how to win big on the red carpet
SHOPPING MADE EASY! THE 50 BEST BOOTS AND SHOES OF THE SEASON
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Our Fashion Know-It-All, ANNE SLOWEY, answers your pressing style questions
WHAT TO WEAR?
page 304
DOCTORS ORDERS
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Designer Kenneth Cole travels to Vienna for the Life Ball and discovers that goodwill is the ultimate party favor. By BOB MORRIS
ASHLEY FODOR reveals Hollywoods most sought-after style secrets from the top hair and makeup artists
SCREEN SAVERS
page 202
290
In a world where every Facebook update is a business opportunity, LOUISA KAMPS learns how to sell herself without selling her soul
TWEET DREAMS
Artist Sam Taylor-Wood decided to become a director, get engaged to the teenage star of her new movieand have a baby with him at 43. RACHAEL COMBE reports
A WOMAN IN FULL
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French chic outfitsGingham prints and pretty pastelsVintage Chanel diamond watchesand more
When it comes to Kristie Cheungs minimalist sense of style, this Hollywood dealmaker means business. By WHITNEY VARGAS
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Phoebe Philos limited edition Wayfarer sunglasses for ClineDana Rebeccas new one-of-a-kind jewelry collectionPedigree Sneaker Gallery opens in Brooklynand more
CONTINUED ON PAGE 58
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ELLE (ISSN 0888-0808) (USPS 762-070) NOVEMBER 2010, Volume XXVI, Issue 3, is published monthly by Hachette Filipacchi Media U.S., Inc., 1633 Broadway, New York, NY 10019. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY 10019 and at additional mailing ofces. Ottawa, Canada, and for payment in cash. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to ELLE, P.O. Box 422532, Palm Coast, FL 32142-7463. Telephone: 800876-8775; foreign: 386-597-4375. E-mail: elle@emailcustomerservice .com; or visit www.customerservice-elle.com. If the postal services alert us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. One-year subscription rate: $15.00 for U.S. and Possessions; $48.00 for Canada (includes 5% GST); $87.00 other foreign. To order a subscription, call 800-876-8775 in the U.S. and Canada, or 386-5974375 in other foreign countries. Occasionally we share our information with other reputable companies whose products and services might interest you. If you prefer not to participate in this opportunity, please call and indicate that to the operator.
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ELLE
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Page 129: Thomas Whiteside; 150 and 160: Svend Lindbaek; 196: Imaxtree.com; 202: courtesy of Chanel; 304 and 328: Carter Smith; 318: Dan King; 338: KT Auleta
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WHITNEY VARGAS and ALEXA BRAZILIAN uncover the most coveted L.A. designers, stores, hot-spot destinations, and more
Kate Hudson wears an embroidered dress from Marc Jacobs, gold bangle from David Yurman, and a diamond bracelet from De Beers. To get her makeup look, try Intense i-color for Green Eyes, Intense i-color Mascara in Black Flash, Touch Pad Blush in Peach, Truly Lasting Lip Color in Petal, all by Almay. For nails, try Revlon Nail Enamel in Revlon Red. Photographed by Carter Smith. Styled by Joe Zee. Hair by David Babaii. Makeup by Jeannia Robinette. Manicure by Ashlie Johnson. Set design by Juliet Jernigan. Gwyneth Paltrow wears an embroidered silk dress from Chlo and a diamond encrusted cuff and ring from Repossi. To get her makeup look, try Signature 5-Tone Shimmer Powder for Eyes, Cheeks, and Face, Signature Eyeshadow Quad in Black Smoke, Double Wear Zero-Smudge Lengthening Mascara in Black, Pure Color Gloss Stick in Honey Pink, and Pure Color Nail Lacquer in Frozen Fantasy all by Este Lauder. Photographed by Carter Smith. Styled by Samira Nasr. Hair by David Babaii. Makeup by Polly Osmond. Manicure by Bernadette Thompson. Hilary Swank wears a viscose gown from Calvin Klein Collection and sterling silver ring from Stephen Dweck. To get her makeup look, try Le Kohl Duo Shadow and Liner in Black Brown/Hazelnut, Extra Volume Collagen Mascara in Black, Colour Riche Lipcolour in Mauved, and Glam Bronze Bronzing Powder in Seductive Sunset, all by LOreal Paris. Photographed by Alexei Hay. Styled by Kate Lanphear. Hair by Robert Vetica. Makeup by Jeannia Robinette. Manicure by Tom Bachik.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page 188
page 184
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NIKKI FINKES annual Hollywood report of the most loved and feared women in the industry
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Environmentalist and supermom Stella McCartney debuts her first collection for children. By ALEXA BRAZILIAN
BABY GENIUS
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L.A. INNOVATORS
For decades, Clint Eastwood embodied redblooded, red-state American manhood. But under that persona evolved a deeply humane perspective on the sexes. By KAREN DURBIN
The most influential designers in LaLa land: Cameron Silver, Jade Lai, George Esquivel, Chase Cohl, and more. By ALEXA BRAZILIAN and WHITNEY VARGAS
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For sun seekers, its not an either/or: Youll pack more pinup power by mixing cunning vintage notes with high-tech cool. Photographed by CARTER SMITH. Styled by MARIO GRAUSO
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SYNCHRONIZED SWIM
328
Guinness heiress Ivana Lowells memoir is a triumph of hope and human spirit. By A. M. HOMES
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LOVE STORY
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Furs new frontier? A shake of shag, a hit of Hendrix, and a bohemian wink. Photographed by KT AULETA. Styled by KATE LANPHEAR
EASY RIDERS
After her brother was convicted of a murder, Betty Anne Waters spent the next 18 years proving his innocence. What happened next was truly shocking. By NINA BURLEIGH
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ASK E. JEAN
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ANNE SLOWEY interviews the Calvin Klein Collection Womens Creative Director and finds that sometimes nice guys finish first. Photographed by DAN KING. Styled by CHRISTOPHER NIQUET
FOREVER MOHR
Jay Mohr explains to ANDREW GOLDMAN what hes learned from Dr. Phil and the profound appeal of Jimmy Smits
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FEATURES
JET-SETTER: MONTREAL
Romanian-born model Irina Lazareanu finds her ideal country home on a lake in the Laurentian Mountains. By MIRANDA PURVES
page 118 page 281
CUTTING EDGE
ELLE
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Sofia Coppola wears a cotton shirt from Cline. To get her makeup look, try HiP Studio Secrets Professional Crystal Shadow in Precious, Double Extend Mascara in Black, True Match Naturale Blush in Soft Rose, and Colour Riche Lipcolour in Pink Lady, all by LOral Paris. Photographed by Carter Smith. Styled by Stacey Battat. Hair by Ken ORourke. Makeup by Jenna Menard. Manicure by Bernadette Thompson. Jodie Foster wears an organza dress from Marc Jacobs. To get her makeup look, try HiP Studio Secrets Professional Crystal Shadow Duo in Darling, Telescopic Explosion Mascara in Black, and True Match Naturale Gentle Lip Conditioner in Soft Mauve, all by LOreal Paris. Photographed by Alexei Hay. Styled by Kate Lanphear. Hair by Peter Savic. Makeup by Lucienne Zammit. Manicure by Tom Bachik. Kate Hudson wears an embroidered dress from Marc Jacobs, gold bangle from David Yurman, and a diamond bracelet from De Beers. To get her makeup look, try Intense i-color for Green Eyes, Intense i-color Mascara in Black Flash, Touch Pad Blush in Peach, Truly Lasting Lip Color in Petal, all by Almay. For nails, try Revlon Nail Enamel in Revlon Red. Photographed by Carter Smith. Styled by Joe Zee. Hair by David Babaii. Makeup by Jeannia Robinette. Manicure by Ashlie Johnson. Set design by Juliet Jernigan. Diane Keaton wears a belted cashmere coat, leather boots from Herms, stretch turtleneck, tights from Wolford, and a felt hat from Victor Osborne. To get her makeup look, try Le Kohl Duo Shadow + Liner in Bronze Brown/Buttercup, Voluminous Waterproof Mascara in Carbon Black, and Colour Riche Lipcolour in Bella Donna Mauve, all by LOreal Paris. Photographed by Carter Smith. Styled by Deborah Waknin. Hair by Peter Savic. Makeup by Collier Strong. Manicure by Lisa Jachno. Set design by Juliet Jernigan. Diane Kruger wears a silk twill jacket from Calvin Klein Collection. To get her makeup look, try Wear Infinit Soft Powder Eye Liner in Brown Suede, Double Extend Lash Boosting Mascara in Black, True Match Naturale Blush in Soft Rose, and Endless Lipcolour in Pink Topaz, all by LOral Paris. Photographed by Carter Smith. Styled by Joe Zee. Hair by David Babaii. Makeup by Jeannia Robinette. Manicure by Ashlie Johnson. Set design by Juliet Jernigan. Gwyneth Paltrow wears an embroidered silk dress from Chlo. To get her makeup look, try Signature 5-Tone Shimmer Powder for Eyes, Cheeks, and Face, Signature Eyeshadow Quad in Black Smoke, Double Wear Zero-Smudge Lengthening Mascara in Black, Pure Color Gloss Stick in Honey Pink, and Pure Color Nail Lacquer in Frozen Fantasy all by Este Lauder. Photographed by Carter Smith. Styled by Samira Nasr. Hair by David Babaii. Makeup by Polly Osmond. Manicure by Bernadette Thompson. Hilary Swank wears a viscose gown from Calvin Klein Collection and sterling silver ring from Stephen Dweck. To get her makeup look, try Le Kohl Duo Shadow and Liner in Black Brown/Hazelnut, Extra Volume Collagen Mascara in Black, Colour Riche Lipcolour in Mauved, and Glam Bronze Bronzing Powder in Seductive Sunset, all by LOral Paris. Photographed by Alexei Hay. Styled by Kate Lanphear. Hair by Robert Vetica. Makeup by Jeannia Robinette. Manicure by Tom Bachik. Kerry Washington wears a suede dress from Balmain. To get her makeup look, try HiP Studio Secrets Professional Crystal Shadow Duo in Darling, Lash Out Mascara in Black, Infallible Never Fail Lipcolour Compact in Rose, and Pro Manicure Nail Polish in Pearly Whites, all by LOral Paris. Photographed by Carter Smith. Styled by Stacey Battat. Hair by Takisha Sturdivant-Drew. Makeup by Jenna Menard. Manicure by Bernadette Thompson.
Page 118 and 281: Greg Morris; 130, 148, and 174: courtesy of the designers; 178: courtesy of Cameron Silver; 182: Rylan Perry; 184: Andrew Zaeh/courtesy of George Esquivel; 186: Nick Walker; 188: Vanessa Bruno/Stephanie Di Giusto; 231: Thibaut de Saint Chamas; 262: Kevin Cremens
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Londoner Alessandra Richs impressive floor-skimming garments, and NYC-based Wes Gordons designs for a new generation of uptown girls. By WHITNEY VARGAS
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Karen Durbin reviews the film Tiny Furniture James Francos new book, Palo AltoThe revival of Tony Kushners Angels in America and more
ELLE INTELLIGENCE
256
A fragrance that sends one woman into a pleasure-swoon might make another hold her nose. What creates the perfect match is a stroke of alchemical luck. By APRIL LONG
AS YOU LIKE IT
242
After a far too eventful decade with breast implants, ELIZABETH HAYT faced yet another deflating experienceone that made her think twice about keeping them
CONTINUED ON PAGE 64
page 262
Whats designer Nicole Millers secret to success and eternal youth? Lots of parties. By JULIA CHAPLIN
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For an oFFicial role x Jeweler call 1-800-367-6539. role x oyster PerPetual and date Just a re trademarks.
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TIFFANY.COM
Pure As Sunlight
RARE IS A YELLOW DIAMOND RARER STILL ONE PURE AS SUNLIGHT A TIFFANY YELLOW DIAMOND RARE IS THE WOMAN WHO WEARS ONE
PASSION FRUIT
ELLE FASHION NEWS
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IT LIST
Looking for the next fast-fashion fix? Your search is over, thanks to MNG by Mangos new collection for JCPenney. With flamenco flower tees for $20, and muy bonita fitted jackets starting at $60, now everyone can get the Barcelona-based brands Spanish bohemian look for even less.
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Jane Fonda made women everywhere want to don leotards in their living rooms. Now 72, shes continuing the metamorphosis spiritually, sexually, and, yes, physically. By MEREDITH BRYAN
AS GOES JANE
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ELLE SHOPS
ELLE TRENDS
4. Marc Jacobs
HOUSE ON GENESEE
1. Jonathan Saunders
2. Marysia Swim
1. Silk bra top, JONATHAN SAUNDERS, $290, collection at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC | 2. Cottonblend shorts, MARYSIA SWIM, $231, visit marysiaswimstore.com | 3. Stamped leather-trimmed raffia bag, NINA RICCI, $1,575, visit ninaricci.com | 4. Flower-trim sandal, MARC JACOBS, $695, call 212-343-1490
ELLEs Top Shop: House on Genesee, Los Angeles, 323-845-9821 Whats there: George Esquivel shoes (check them out on page 184), Zan Zan eyewear, Carla Fernandez Rebozo dresses, and Victoria Morris ceramics Projected wait-list items: Man Candys navy cape and oversize balloon pants, Cali Dreamings nude bikinis, and Gabriela Artigas Loop scarf Vibe: Located in a 1920s neoclassical-style house with brilliant natural light and a courtyard herb garden, with charming vintage touches such as an ancient mechanics table and Hungarian green glass wine bottles, plus contemporary drawings from Yuval Pudik and Daniel Ingroff and solid walnut side tables by Artless Playlist: Nick Cave, Johnny Cash, Massive Attack, the White Stripes, and the Good Listeners
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ELLE INTEL
LONG LIVETHEQUEEN
An epic and mesmerizing chronicle of the rise and fall of Egypts Cleopatra
legend, they are hardly her most significant accomplishments. Schiffs portrayal brings to life a charismatic figure who cannily expanded the empire she inherited, was a deft military strategist and a brilliant diplomat who spoke eight languages fluently, and for 22 years, until her legendarily gruesome death, ruled a glittering city-state of astronomical wealth. Cleopatras Schiff jewel-encrusted Hellenistic Alexandria now lies submerged in the Mediterranean Sea, but its monarch exudes to this day an aura of mystery that, as Schiff writes, keeps us coming back for more.Natasha Clark
For 2,000 yearsfrom Plutarch to Shakespeare to Joseph L. Mankiewiczher story has been told and retold in manifold ways. Cleopatra: A Life (Little, Brown), the newest take on the ancient worlds most spellbinding queen by Pulitzer Prizewinning biographer Stacy Schiff, has already attracted the interest of ber-producer Scott Rudin and reigning Hollywood empress Angelina Jolie. Schiff excavates truth from myth with vivid eloquence, taking us back to life in a time and place that was both an orgy of pillage and murder and the Paris of the ancient world. While the female pharaohs liaisons with Julius Caesar and Mark Antony are the stuff of timeless
In Portia de Rossis courageous new memoir, Unbearable Lightness: A Story of Loss and Gain , out November 2, she revisits some of the lowest points in her life and on her scale while grappling with how a diet became a more than 15-year-long eating disorder. ELLE
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Page 138: courtesy of Oscar de la Renta; 176: Mary McCartney; 184: Isabel Asha Penzlien; MNG by Mango tee and book still life: Len Lagrua; Schiff: Elena Seibert; Genesee: courtesy of the location; Nina Ricci bag: courtesy of the designer; remaining still lifes: Devon Jarvis (Jonathan Saunders bra top styled by Eddy Alcantara for Mark Edward Inc.; remaining items styled by Bill Laughlin for Mark Edward Inc.); for details, see Shopping Guide
TABLE OF CONTENTS
HOT CONTENTS
promotion
november 2010
Get stylish promotions, check out exclusive events, and be rst to know about the hottest offers. Visit ELLEextra.com for more fashion-forward info.
SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL
AVON
Try It Now
SHOP IT NOW
Dont miss our editor-selected little-black-dress boutique at Rue La Lasign up now at RueLaLa.com/ELLE for exclusive access to great sales daily.
ELLE
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november 2010
Get stylish promotions, check out exclusive events, and be rst to know about the hottest offers. Visit ELLEextra.com for more fashion-forward info.
ANDREW MARC
Cold Weather Accessory Collection
Introducing the new cold weather collection by Andrew Marc, just in time for the fall fashion season. From edgy to elegant, youll nd something to complement every look. Available at andrewmarc.com.
Visit sexandthecitymovie.com.
ZETA GRAFF
The ZG Collection
Zeta Graff announces a new capsule collection: ZG. These striking spheres covered in pav diamonds in a monochromatic palette of white, gray, and black easily transition from day to night. Available at Maxeld in Los Angeles and Stanley Korshak in Dallas. Visit zetagraff.com.
MAI COUTURE
Blush Without the Brush
With Mai Coutures innovative on-the-go beauty trend, blush papers, you can apply blush wherever, whenever. Available in three shades at maicouture.com. Enter ELLEextra at checkout for an exclusive 20% off your entire purchase.
Available at select Bloomingdales or your local fine jeweler For more information and store locations visit www.rebeccajewelry.com True PDF release: storemags & fantamag
Christina Hendricks
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ELLE.COM/DREAMS
NO PURCHASE NECESSARY TO ENTER OR WIN. Sweepstakes begins 11/02/09 and closes 03/04/11. Open to U.S. and Canada residents 18 years of age and older. Sweepstakes may be presented in conjunction with different offers sponsored or cosponsored by The Readers Digest Association, Inc., its subsidiaries and afliated companies, and may be presented in conjunction with offers sponsored by different organizations. Void where prohibited. For entry and other details, including ofcial rules, visit www.elle.com/dreams.
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november 2010
Get stylish promotions, check out exclusive events, and be rst to know about the hottest offers. Visit ELLEextra.com for more fashion-forward info.
MARCO BICEGO
Rened Italian Luxury
Experience the beauty and expert craftsmanship of 18 karat gold Jaipur bangle bracelets with semiprecious gemstones by Marco Bicego. These and other Marco Bicego designs are available at Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, and your nearest ne jeweler. Please call (866)-4BICEGO or visit us online at marcobicego.com.
LONGCHAMP
A Parisian Fte in NYC
On July 14, ELLE and Longchamp celebrated Bastille Day in style at Longchamps newly opened store on Madison Avenue in New York City. Guests sipped Parisian-themed cocktails and enjoyed classic French bites while browsing the latest collections. For more information about Longchamp, visit longchamp.com.
GLADE
Experience the Glade Relaxing Moments Collection
Escape the everyday with fragrances like Cool Serenity, Island Escape, and Water Blossoms. These heavenly fragrances from Glade transport you to a place where you can relax and unwind. Visit glade.com/relaxingmoments.
IN HOLLYWOOD
FROCK STARS
When Tinseltowns biggest names need to rock a red carpet, they turn to magicians like Georgina Chapman, Francisco Costa, and Jason Wu. We get the designers tips and tricks for dressing the starsand dressing like a star.
SCREEN GEMS
Go behind the scenes of our cover shoots with some of Hollywoods brightest stars, including Kate Hudson, Jessica Alba, Sofia Coppola, and others. tutus for Black Swan 2010s top movie soundtracksand what you should download now The risks and rewards of Hollywoods most popular detox cleanses An examination of the politicsand the pitfallsof celebrity coupledom and dating in the spotlight Rodartes Laura and Kate Mulleavy on their haute
Diane Kruger with Calvin Kleins Francisco Costa at the 2010 Costume Institute Gala
TREND REPORT
See the hottest trends from the spring 2011 collections, straight from the still-warm runways of New York City, London, Paris, and Milan.
REEL WORLD
ELLE checks in on some of our favorite women behind the cameras. From directors and agents to costume designers and screenwriters, we highlight the talented ladies who really make the movie magic happen.
ELLE
SEEING DOUBLE
We pair todays leading ladies with their iconic forebears and show you how to get their timeless looks.
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Diane Kruger and Franciso Costa: Getty Images; Kathryn Bigelow: Mary Evans/Lightstorm Entertainment/Ronald Grant/Everett Collection; Dita Von Teese: R.Stonehouse/Retna Ltd.; Elizabeth Taylor: Getty Images; runway: Imaxtree.com
www.dior.com
R O B I N D O M E N I CO N I
Senior Vice President / Chief Brand Officer
R O B E R TA MY E R S
Vice President, Editor-in-Chief / Brand Content
JOE ZEE
Creative Director
PAU L R I T T E R
Design Director, ELLE Group
ALEXIS BRYAN MO RGAN ANN E SLOWEY EM I LY DOU GH ERT Y
Fashion Director
DOU GL AS BAU GH M AN
Managing Editor
Accessories Director
Style Director
Executive Accessories Editor K ATE DAVI DSON H U DSON Fashion Credits Director TRI CIA SCH REI BER Market Editor JAD E FR A M PTO N Senior Accessories Editor K YLE AN D ERSON Associate Fashion Credits Editor NATASHA CL ARK Assistant Editors J ENN I FER GACH, SAR AH SCH USSH EI M Assistants JO D I BELD EN, KRISTEN SH I RLEY, M ITSU TSU CH IYA
FEATURES
Senior Features Editors BEN W. D I CKINSO N, LISA CHASE Entertainment Director JENNI FER WEISEL Senior Editor (Living) MIRANDA PURVES Senior Fashion News Editor WH ITN EY VARGAS Fashion News Editor ALEX A BR A ZI LIAN Senior Writer (Features & Beauty) APRI L LON G Associate Editor R ACH EL ROSEN BLIT Assistant Editors SETH PL AT TN ER, JU LI E VADNAL Editorial Assistants ERIN BOYLE, AN GEL A BLI UM IS, N OJAN A M IN OSHAREI
BEAUT Y AND FITNESS
Associate Art Directors DANI EL FISH ER, ELVIS CRUZ, JI LL SERR A International Coordinator MONIQ U E BONIO L Assistant Managing Editor JENNA REED
PHOTOGR APHY
Photo Director PI PPA LO RD Senior Photo Editor JACQ U ELIN E BATES Photo Producer JU LI E HA M MON D Photo Assistant LOU ISA PARKINSO N
COPY/RESEARCH
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ELLE
ts not a total stretch to think that someone other than Sam Taylor-Wood might want to buy the rights to the story of Sam Taylor-Woodthe 43-year-old director, producer, and fine art photographer who recently had a baby with her 20-yearold fianc, Aaron Johnson, the star of her first full-length feature film, Nowhere Boy. Though once the script of Taylor-Woods life made it through a Hollywood rewrite, shed be a man, played by Woody Allen; Scarlett Johansson, the besotted teenager; and Diane Keaton Oh, wait, thats Manhattan . Or maybe Rita Wilson would play Sam, and Tom Hanks would be the teenager, but in a mans body, and theyd discover when they got to space that their souls were exactly the same age so nothing untoward was going on after all. As much as Hollywood is the whipping boy for the loosening of American morals, on the whole it still plays solidly to the middle; other than Harold and Maude, I cant think of a film that lets an older woman find something solid and mature with a younger man. Theres always some kind of treachery lurking: heartbreak in store for the woman; exploitation and cougar aggression for the young man. I can say that my mothers relationship with her 19-years-younger boyfriend was probably the one in which I saw her the happiest and most fulfilled. The romance lasted nearly a decade, and their deep friendship continues today, some 30 years later. So Im rooting for Taylor-Wood, and for her fianc, and hope we can see their relationship not as something weird and threatening but as a call to make room for all relationships that arent traditionalincluding gay marriage. I just think its sad (since were on the topic of love) that were still debating this.
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Theres no debating that its our Women in Hollywood issue, which comes out right in time for ELLEs splashy yet intimate event at the Four Seasons in L.A., honoring eight women in the industry for their work. Its as A-list as it gets, and while there are always men in the room, its an amazing two hours in which the notion that women are subordinate in their chosen industry is put passionately to rest. This year we honor anew the first-ever Woman in Hollywood icon: Jodie Foster, whose 31-year career is a showcase of talent, chops, and multidimensionality in acting, directing, and producing. Our other honoreesicons in their own rightare Diane Keaton, Kate Hudson, Gwyneth Paltrow, Hilary Swank, Sofia Coppola, Kerry Washington, Diane Kruger, and newcomer Jessica Chastain. (And then theres that other icon, Clint Eastwood. Karen Durbins fascinating interview with him [page 286] traces his evolution from Dirty Harry to one of the few directors in Hollywood who consistently make films with powerful, nuanced female leads.) Every year, the women we celebrate and other guests collar me to say, Please, whatever you do, dont change it. Dont broadcast it, itll ruin it. Its a night for us, its really about the work and our careers and not the camera and the ticking clock. Rest assuredwe wouldnt change a thing. But our coverage of the event on ELLE.com, which starts on October 18, will bring you up close and personal to the stars you love. I hope youll join us!
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Country Strong : Screen Gems/courtesy Everett Collection; Conviction : Fox Searchlight/courtesy Everett Collection; Morning Glory : Macall Polay/Paramount Pictures; Inside Man: Universal/courtesy Everett Collection; Somewhere : Franco Biciocchi; Earthbound: Earthbound Productions LLC; Night Catches Us : courtesy of Magnolia Pictures; Chastain: Daniel King; Inglourious Basterds : Weinstein Company/courtesy Everett Collection
M A Y B E
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*Based on FDMx unit sales for the 52-wk period ending 12/27/09 as reported by InfoScan Information Resources, Inc. plus other outlet POS sales. 2010 Maybelline LLC.
ELLE LETTERS
I just want to say that I truly love reading ELLE. Thank you for covering such a wide range of topics. Im a 24-yearold African-American woman, and I absolutely appreciate reading stories that matter to me as a woman and as an African-American (e.g., the review of Danielle McGuires newest book, At the Dark End of the Street, in the Intelligence section, as well as the wide range of artists in ELLE 25). Your magazine is unlike others out there that have a one-track mind or think that their point of view is the only one that matters. So, again, I thank you for keeping it real. Clare, via e-mail
Thank you for featuring Julia Roberts in your September issue [Eat Pray Love, September 2010]. As a young mother, its nice to be able to relate to a celebrity whos dealing with the same everyday tasks and challenges. She truly seems like a lovely person and a woman Id want to be friends with. Heather, Missoula, MT
HES THE MAN
As a longtime fan of the soap opera All My Children , I thought it was great to see AMC alum Josh Duhamel in your magazine [The Natural, September 2010]. This talented actor is finally receiving the recognition he deserves. Abbey, Bayside, NY Josh Duhamel is perhaps one of the best-looking actors in Hollywood today. Thank you for featuring his deliciousness in your September issue. I cant wait to see his new movie Life as We Know It ! Francesca, Portsmouth, NH
NEWSIES
Brian Williams [The Good Night Guy, September 2010] was quite different from your usual back-page subjects, many of whom are physically attractive yet lack intellect. Please publish more stories about men like him! Caitlin, Allenhurst, NJ
CITY SLICKER
I loved the New York State of Mind fashion spread
THE OUTSIDERS
Thank you for the behindthe-scenes peek at Deborah Lloyds al fresco dinner party [Fete Accompli, September 2010]. I love to entertain, and this piece provided me with some great, unique ideas for my next cozy event. I cant wait to try her brother-in-laws yellow curry recipe! Ryan, Houston
From top: Tom Munro, Alexei Hay
Im a huge fan of Kate Spades redesign engineered by Deb Lloyd. What a treat it was to see her creative and quirky party in your September issue. Please deliver more talented and humble individuals like her. Freja, Pasadena, CA
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TIME TO CHANGE
F E N D I C R A Z Y C A R AT S R E G I S T E R E D S E R I E S 1 0 5 0 0 PAT E N T E D M E C H A N I S M F E N D I B O U T I Q U E S S A K S F I F T H AV E N U E F E N D I . C O M 1 8 0 0 9 5 3 3 6 3 4
ELLE LETTERS
away in exchange for some slimming trousers! Zita, Chicago
ID RATHER GO NAKED
Ive been a longtime ELLE reader, and I usually enjoy the stories and fashion features in your magazine. However, I was disappointed and offended at the amount of real fur featured in your latest issue [September 2010]. While fur may have been a historical necessity, in our day and age there is absolutely no need for it or its inhumane ways of production. Cruelty and ignorance are never fashionable. Elena, New York City
IN THE KNOW
Im a culture buff whos always looking out for upcoming buzzworthy events. ELLEs roundup of soon-to-be-released books, movies, and music [The ELLE 25, September 2010] is just what I needed. Im especially excited to see Love and Other Drugs with Anne Hathaway and Jake Gyllenhaal! Geena, Brooklyn
[September 2010], especially as Im teaching English in a secluded town in China for the year and am going to miss my hometown of NYC. I made sure to grab a copy of ELLE at the airport before I left. Im truly going to treasure this issue for the next 10 months! Thank you. Martta, via e-mail
P.S. notes and from-the-heart advice are equally impressive, not to mention downright funny. Laughter may be the best remedy for the worlds heartaches. Melissa, Ontario, Canada
experienced and hopefully wont have to. Karen, San Francisco To say that Rachael Combes article Till Whatever Do Us Part is accurate and perfectly appropriate would be an understatement. I wasnt a regular ELLE reader, until now. Her piece on marriage and divorce was absolutely spot-on. As a single gal in my twenties, I felt she spoke even to me. I appreciate a fresh viewpoint on sticking to something, even when its not particularly glamorous. Keep up the good work, and please keep Rachael writing! See you next month. Margaret, St. Louis
THE SOLOIST
When I got married, my dad (and others) assured me my husband and I were just the couple to be together forever. Five years later, I was divorced. Prior to becoming divorced, I too was self-righteous and naive like Rachael Combe in her essay Till Whatever Do Us Part [September 2010]. I smugly wondered how anybody could let the most important commitment of her life fall apart. I also freely used the word failure. Then came the tidal wave of humility, the arrogance slapped from my face with an open palm. Among other things, you are left hoping like hell that people like Ms. Combe dont have to go through the same. But you also hope society will be a little less judgmental about something theyve never
TRUE BEAUTY
Im extremely excited to read Portia de Rossis upcoming autobiography Unbearable Lightness: A Story of Loss and Gain , detailed by Nojan Aminosharei [The Big TellAll, September 2010]. Its nice to see an actress portray her actual self and admit to having flaws. Emily, Hartford, CT
TEMPER TRAP
What kind of crazy person would serve herself an extra-large helping of sex hormones [My Chemical Romance, September 2010]? Get a therapist and learn to articulate your sexual misgivings. I was extremely disturbed after reading this story. This woman should be institutionalized for having such a lack of common sense and endangering her family. Kelly, Astoria, NY
RINGLEADER
I was thrilled to see Stephanie Winston Wolkoffs personal taste detailed in Fashion Workbook this month [Showtime, September 2010]. I cannot think of a better person to represent New York Fashion Week at Lincoln Center. Robin, Sharon, MA Stephanie Winston Wolkoffs style preferences will greatly enhance the authenticity
Carter Smith
FUNNY GIRL
I wanted to write to say how much I (and my entire office!) enjoy the Ask E. Jean column. She really seems to spend quality time researching each question. And of course, her
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ELLE LETTERS
of New York Fashion Week despite its new and unfamiliar digs at Lincoln Center. Ms. Wolkoffs wardrobe exudes classic American fashion, similar to the weeklong event that shes now in charge of producing. I look forward to seeing how her terrific efforts pan out! Jacalyn, Cranston, RI
was shocked. Shouldnt there be some validity as to your guests ability to style? Who would wear that black dress to a movie? And who would go to a movie after dinner at Le Cirque? I found both of her looks to be completely inappropriate for the occasions. Her ability to match people is one thing, but can we please see some fashion talent on the same page as your famous stylist? Joyce, via e-mail
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GOING INCOGNITO
As a fashion consultant and stylist, Ive been using the pages of ELLE as a bible for years. After reading this months article pitting your Joe Zee against Millionaire Matchmaker s Patti Stanger, I
Send your letters to ELLE, Letters to the Editors, 1633 Broadway, New York, NY 10019, or e-mail us at elleletters@hfmus.com. Letters may be edited for length and clarity.
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Bieber and Kardashian: Dusan Reljin; Stanger and Zee: Thomas Whiteside
I love Joe Zees Style A to Zee column, but Match Point [September 2010] was over the top! Patti Stangers Weekend Brunch getup made me laugh! It looks like the model went from partying at 5 A.M. straight to a brunch date. Ms. Stangers choice will only attract sugar daddies and high-rolling commitmentphobes. Joe Zees classic, feminine ensemble was much more like it. As always, Zees looks are right on target! Flora, Raleigh, NC
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NA TIONAL TREASURES
From up-and-comers to established royals, this, the seventeenth annual Women in Hollywood issue, pays tribute to a select group whose talent never ceases to move us. On and off the red carpet, all of our icons have style that never fails to inspire. Two days before her thirty-sixth birthday, the ever-humble twotime Academy Award winner Hilary Swank arrived on set in L.A. wearing a tank top, jeans, and heels, carrying leftovers from lunch. In the blink of an eye, she shimmied into a body-con Calvin Klein dress, with flashy gold foil nails (her request) that she wore out that night for an early birthday celebration. Also in L.A., Kate Hudson slipped into the studio in her trademark gear: a flowy dress, Dolce & Gabbana snakeskin wedges, and a gold necklace that spelled out
RYDER,
Carole Lombard
Marilyn Monroe
Leather pumps trimmed with ostrich feathers, PAULE KA COLLECTION, price upon request, visit pauleka.com
Givenchy Couture
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elle.com/behindthecover
Paramount Theatre: Frank Driggs Collection/Getty Images; Hollywood sign: Luc Roux/Corbis; Swank: Alexei Hay; Hudson: Carter Smith; Paltrow: Carter Smith; Lombard: John Kobal Foundation/Getty Images; Monroe: Sunset Boulevard/Corbis; Harlow: Underwood & Underwood/Corbis; remaining images: courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide
after her six-year-old son. With 80s music blaring, Hudson zipped in and out of Marc Jacobs and Oscar de la Renta confections, snacked on a Caesar salad and chamomile tea, and happily hung with her new beau, rocker Matthew Bellamyon hand to watch his squeeze work her magic. In NYC, Gwyneth Paltrow arrived for her shoot fresh from a summer in Amagansett, New York, every inch the fashion muse in a Balenciaga dress and blazer with Givenchy snakeskin sandals. The actress chatted about her imminent return to England (where she and husband Chris Martin live part-time) and her now-famous workouts with trainer Tracy Anderson. When she wrapped up in little more than a Prada cardigan to shoot her portrait, it was clear those killer sessions are still paying off.Natasha Clark
DIOR CHRISTAL
leFt: lace pulloVer top, $40 SKinny Bootcut Jean with Belt, $48 pleateD wriStlet, $36 riGht: chiFFon-top DreSS, $60 marty DreSS Bootie, $69.99 Styles may vary by store. elle iS a traDemarK owneD By hachette Filipacchi preSSe.
t h e w o r l D. the runway. t h e S t r e e t. y o u r S t y l e.
family lives in the Chicago suburbs. CURRENTLY: Brooklyn, with her fianc and their amazing collie-esque mutt, Gordon PROFESSION: Writer and editor at O magazine THIS MONTH: As Goes Jane (page 274) BONA FIDES: Has written for GQ and the New York Observer; with celebrity publicist Kelly Cutrone, coauthored If You Have to Cry, Go Outside: And Other Things Your Mother Never Told You (HarperOne, 2010)
THE UNOFFICIAL TAO OF FONDA:
did costumes for Country Strong, Gwyneth Paltrows new movie. Her character is supposed to look vulnerable, so I picked clothes that would make her hold herself in a certain way, like an Alice+Olivia dress so short that she had to keep tugging it down.
NAME: Nikki Finke PROVENANCE: New York CURRENTLY: Los Angeles PROFESSION: Editor-in-chief and
You never get the sense that Jane is living anywhere but the present. She maximizes each stage of her life. OFF DUTY: Im planning to become a bridezilla soon. In the meantime, Im obsessed with books about factory farming: Eating Animals by Jonathan Safran Foer, Dominion by Matthew Scully, and The CAFO Reader: The Tragedy of Industrial Animal Factories. GUILTY PLEASURE: The show Whale Wars ! Im tempted to quit my job and go help the Sea Shepherd patrol the high seas. UPCOMING ATTRACTION: Im working with Kelly on her next book, which will offer career and spiritual advice for young women.
founder of DeadlineHollywood.com BONA FIDES: Formerly on staff at Newsweek , the Los Angeles Times, the New York Observer, and New York THIS MONTH: Wrote ELLEs Hollywood Power List for the second year in a row ON 2010 POWER SHIFTS: Some powerful women lost their jobs. Partly due to the recession, partly due to alpha males. BEST THING ABOUT HOLLYWOOD: I love the way people talk herethey have their own language. Theyre meaner, funnier, and crazier than anyone else. WORST THING: The cheerful way that everybody lies. ON HER REPUTATION AS A BULLY: Hey, the people I talk to are paid a ton to deal with people like me. And Im not really mean; I just write that way. OFF DUTY: Actually, I really do like being mean and vindictive. That may be my favorite pastime.
NAME: KT Auleta PROVENANCE: Oswego, NY NAME: Stacey Battat PROVENANCE: Trumbull, CT CURRENTLY: Manhattan PROFESSION: Fashion stylist, costume CURRENTLY: Manhattan PROFESSION: Photographer THIS MONTH: Easy Riders (page 338).
designer
THIS MONTH: Styled Sofia Coppola
and Kerry Washington for Women in Hollywood (page 312). I wanted Sofia to look like herselfvery chic, elegant, not flashy. Ive known her for 10 years, so I know what she likes. BONA FIDES: Has styled for i-D, Vanity Fair; has a BS in sociology from Hunter School of Social Work. MOST WATCHED MOVIES: My cool answer is Jules and Jim. My uncool answer is Annie. The orphans clothes in her prered dress phase were my style inspiration as a child. The amazing prints, the colors, the holes in the knit cardiganseverythings so good. COMING ATTRACTIONS: For Sofias new movie, Somewhere, I had the strippers wear these little tennis outfits. The girls were meant to look cute, never trashy, though they were very scantily clad. I also
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It was shot in an airfield in Brooklyn, but it looked like the Serengeti. BONA FIDES: Studied photography at the University of Buffalo; has shot for T: The New York Times Style Magazine, Interview, V, i-D, Dazed & Confused. Her short film, Runaround, is online at runaroundthefilm.com. ART MEETS LIFE: My husband and I love to ride our 71 Triumphs that our friend Mister Tinker made for ussome of his bikes were in the ELLE shoot. When we shot this story, wed been in an accident two weeks earlier. Our back tire blew, and we slid down the highway, burning our skin through the leathers. I was still feeling it at the shoot. RECENT INSPIRATION: Rockers: Kings of the Road by Johnny Stuart, and these 1960s magazine photos of people on a commune, nude except for furs. MOST WATCHED MOVIE: Robert Altmans The Long Goodbye
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Finke: Jaime Hernandez; The New Yorker, remaining portraits: courtesy of subjects
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husband and sometimes their collegeage son. PROFESSION: Writer THIS MONTH: The Big Bust (page 256) BONA FIDES: An MA in art history from NYUs Institute of Fine Arts; winner of the 2010 American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery journalistic award for the October 2009 ELLE story Second Chances; former sex columnist for the New York Post ; has written for The New York Times, the International Herald Tribune, The Daily Beast ; authored Im No Saint: Memoir of a Wayward Wife (Grand Central Publishing, 2006) OFF DUTY: Ballet, since age six (Im a leaper, a jumper, and a kicker); black belt in Tae Kwon Do RECENT INSPIRATION: Carrie Fishers Broadway show, Wishful Drinking. She makes herself seem ordinary and accessible despite the fact that she grew up in a Hollywood bubble. MOST-WATCHED MOVIE: Somethings Gotta Give. I recently went to a dinner party dressed all in ivory with little round glasses, and a guy said I looked like I stepped out of a Nancy Meyers movie. I took it as a compliment. UPCOMING ATTRACTION: A collection of personal essays about beauty, sex, fashion, and relationships
NAME: Bob Morris PROVENANCE: Long Island, NY CURRENTLY: Manhattan, with his
husband and long-hair miniature dachshund, Zoloft, who, he says, looks like Amy Winehouse PROFESSION: Writing about the neuroses of the aspirational THIS MONTH: Life Ball (page 118) BONA FIDES: Has written for The New York Times, Travel + Leisure, Town and Country ; authored Assisted Loving: True Tales of Double Dating With My Dad (Harper, 2008) DRESSING FOR A BACCHANAL: The theme of this years Life Ball was earth, so I wore a penguin suit. NIGHT OWL: I was a party reporter for the Times, so Ive covered everything from Oscar parties, to the 175th anniversary of the Hotel Maamoura in Marrakech, to the launch of Talk magazine under the Statue of Liberty. OFF DUTY: Playing tennis in whites with a wooden Jack Kramer racket; playing the ukulele for Zoloft. She tilts her head in appreciation. MOST WATCHED MOVIE: High Society. Its always a relief to see people in dinner jackets who know how to behave themselves.
NAME: Daniel King NAME: Louisa Kamps PROVENANCE: Milwaukee, WI CURRENTLY: Madison, WI, with her PROVENANCE: Sydney CURRENTLY: In New York City PROFESSION: Photographer
Hayt: Elizabeth Lippman; Morris: Rebekah Andersen; remaining portraits: courtesy of subjects
husband and two young sons PROFESSION: Writer, ELLE contributing editor THIS MONTH: Tweet Dreams (page 264) BONA FIDES: Has written for the New Yorker, Good Housekeeping, the New York Times Book Review, Martha Stewart, and Whole Living ; authored Where Do I Go From Here?: Getting a Life After High School (Penguin, 2004) ON BEING A GENERALIST: I write about health and psychology as well as book reviews, entertainment, other things. Its like crop rotation of the mind. OFF DUTY: Urban hiking around the lakes of Madison with the family ON TOOTING HORNS: If you google me, one of the first things that comes up is a piece about labia surgery I wrote more than 11 years ago. It continues to follow me. Self-branding does allow you to have more control over what
ELLE
346); Women in Hollywood spotlight on Jessica Chastain (page 318). We shot Jessica in Levittown, Long Island, the birthplace of modern suburbia! It was once marketed as this idealistic Americana, steps from the city, minutes from the ocean, when really its in the middle of nowhere. BONA FIDES: Has shot for Corduroy, Zen , Lula, Rush OFF DUTY: Bike-riding, karaoke, cooking, and growing herbs on my balcony. My incomplete art projects include furniture building, jewelry design, horticulture, and painting. RECENT INSPIRATION: Without a doubt, John Baldessari MOST-WATCHED MOVIES: True Stories with the Talking Heads and Thatll Be the Day featuring David Essex and Ringo Starr. Ive seen both over 20 times.
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KERRY WASHINGTON, acclaimed actress. new concerto. movado rockefeller center and select ne retailers nationwide. movado.com
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ELLE TRAVEL
SPIRITUAL HOME: MONTREAL A model finds her ideal mise-en-scne in French Canada
Bilingual beauty : Model and musician Irina Lazareanu; (above) a view from the wooded mountain park that anchors the city; (below) Orange Julep, a fast-food institution, on vintage-car night
Irina Lazareanu, who has toured with Babyshambles and walked all the top runways, counts Kate Moss as an amie, and is dropping an album with Sean Lennon this month, has the world at her fingertips. But when she needs to recharge her soul, she returns to the same place that took in her family as refugees from Nicolae Ceaus escus Romania when she was five years old: Quebec, Canada. Shes just bought a country retreat in the Laurentian Mountains (fall foliage, fireplace heaven) about two hours outside the city, and, en route, she always makes time for her favorite Montreal haunts. Its a little North American cross-cultural jewel, Lazareanu says. The Plateau neighborhood has an almost 80s New York vibewith artistic squats, poetry cafs, small galleriesthats hard to find anymore. If youre ready to tap in before its too late (thank you, Arcade Fire!), heres her It-est hit list. Stay: For a special treat, I choose the StJames, she says. A sure model lure? The leopard-spot-upholstered room in this grand hotel in an 1870s former bank (355, rue Saint-Jacques ). Eat, Drink, and Dance: Le Club Chasse et Pche is like a little romantic cave. I
City cool : (From left) Parisian Laundry gallery; Lazareanus earrings and moc-boots from the local Kahnawake reservation ; fresh catch at Le Club Chasse et Pche; Boutique Jacks furniture store and her beer of choice, eh?
have the amazing steak and fish plate (423, rue St-Claude ). For the best poutine experience [the indigenous fries, gravy, and cheese curd specialty], try Orange Julep; its been there since the 50s (7700, blvd Dcarie ). For a drink and a bit of a dance I go to the Buvette Chez Simone, which is a bar for artsy kids, like the Beatrice Inn in NYC used to be (4869, ave du Parc ), or I hit 80s night at Copacabana (3910, blvd SaintLaurent ); and though Im a Molson girl, Bl Kun is the best beer place (354, ave du MontRoyal Est ). Shop: For vintage, go to Value Village! There are four locations. You have to dig. I found a Vivienne Westwood cape from the early days for $35 (valuevillage.com ). For furniture, Boutique JacksI bought a 1940s marble desk and art deco lamps for my house there (1883, rue Amherst ). Art Watch: Find the next Marcel Dzama or Aurel Schmidt at the warehouse turned gallery Parisian Laundry (3550, StAntoine Ouest ). Hair Do: For a style souvenir, have her stylist, David, snip you long bangs la Irina, at Salon Helmet (163, ave du MontRoyal Est).Miranda Purves
As cities get ever more bike friendly (yay!), smart hoteliers are offering guests complimentary, stylish two-wheelers. We cant imagine a nicer way to experience the Hamptons off-season than on the Maidstones red Kronans, adapted from the Swedish Army standard-issue ride (207 Main Street, 631-324-5006 ). Survey New York Citys Hudson or East River Park on a cruiser from the newly opened James Hotel, the Bowery Hotel, or the Jane; or explore Bostons Charles River on one of the Liberty Hotels steel steeds. Longing to test all the cute roadside foodie trucks in Portland, Oregon? The Hotel Monaco or the new, lower-priced W sibling, Aloft, have your carbon-emissions-free, calorie-burning vehicle waiting.M.P.
Pack along Brit designers Tord Boontje and Emma Woffendens new scented candles as a prophylactic against iffy guest room miasma. Made by Guatemalan artisans from recycled glass bottles and hand-poured in Los Angeles for Artecnicas Design w/ Conscience Collection. $36, in Fresh Cut Grass or Ripe Currant, artecnica.com
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Lazareanu: Patrickmcmullan.com; Orange Julep: Evelyn Reid; scenery (from left): Yves Marcoux/Getty Images, Panoramic Images/Getty Images, Brian Doben/Getty Images; earrings and moc-boots: Len Lagrua; Ljungberg: Greg Morris; Molson bottle: courtesy of Molson Canada; candle: courtesy of Artecnica; remaining images: courtesy of the locations
THENEW GUARD
Living in fear of dreaded worst dressed lists, most stars play it safe. Creative Director Joe Zee shows five up-andcomers how to take style gambles without bombing on the red carpet
Photographed by Thomas Whiteside; styled by Joe Zee (hair by Gio Campora at the Wall Group; makeup by Molly Stern at Starworksartists.com; fashion assistant: Sarah Schussheim); Diana Ross: (top) Waring Abbot/Getty Images, (bottom) Andy Freeberg/Getty Images; Elizabeth Taylor: courtesy of the Everett Collection; Yaya wears: Cline dress
In August, I was enlisted as a Special Fashion Correspondent for Extra at the Emmysmy first time covering a redcarpet event on the red carpet! Or, more precisely, on a 10-by-10 platform stuffed with me, hosts Mario Lopez and Lauren Sanchez, and a handful of producers and cameramen. As the temperature soared and I sweated through my very chic, slim Burberry Prorsum tuxedo, the stars seemed preternaturally cool with their perfect coifs, toothy grins, and, for the most part, slinky column gowns. You know the ones: long, chic, and elegant, always pretty, but a bit sensible, some might say. If it seems the redcarpet brigade has lost all sense of daring in recent years, well, you have me and my kind to thank for that. Hollywood stars depend on stylists to keep them off those dreaded Worst Dressed lists. Having read both rave reviews and brutal attacks of the celebrity outfits Ive styled, I get it: If I feel the sting of each harsh word, how must the person who actually wore the thing feel?
Still, where are the actresses who venture out of the safety zone? Im not talking about a Bjrk moment, necessarily, but a truly beautiful, unexpected flash of movie star chic. I clearly remember watching the 1990 Oscars, when a gorgeous Kim Basinger proudly announced she had made her own one-sleeved ball gown. Kim gets points for inventiveness, even if the result wasnt so hot. Sadly, those days are gone. In the stars defense, the media (yes, ELLE included) has made risk-taking way riskier. We clamor for the arrival of the rare mold-breaking dresser, only to blast her the moment she steps out of her limo. Take January Jones at the Emmys. When we spoke on the Extra platform, she told me she had spotted her galactic, sculpted blue Atelier Versace couture gown in Italian Vogue and knew right away she had to wear it. Taking her cues from editorial? Bonus points! But I confess my initial reaction was more along the lines of, Hmm, Im not sure. Its just so different. There I was, repeating the cycle Ive seen countless times before! Though even now I dont think it
was the best choice for her (a beautiful girl who can wear anything!), ultimately I have to wonder: Isnt being memorablegood or badbetter than being forgettable? The question brings me to our annual Women in Hollywood Issue. Each year, we celebrate the women honored in the magazine at an intimate event held in Los Angeles; each year, Ive seen these incredible women show up looking gorgeous and understated and dynamite, but most of all because the event isnt televisedfree of the usual awards-show pressure. They remind me that a worthwhile fashion risk doesnt need to be showstopping; usually, a small, subtle nod to something new and different will do the trick. For this months A to Zee column, we borrowed the best touches I spied at the Emmyssay, stacks of gold vintage jewelry instead of the standard aging wristfuls of Old Hollywoodinspired diamondsand applied them to five rising stars who are sure to be storming plenty of red carpets in the coming year. Just dont criticize the looks Ive chosen too harshly. I can be sensitive too, you know.
A SIMPLE PLAN
The Talent: Yaya DaCosta Seen In: The Kids Are Alright (2010); next
months Tron: Legacy Most Likely to Attend: The Oscars. If the buzz on The Kids Are Alright is any indication, Yaya, a runner-up on season three of Americas Next Top Model, may soon find herself undergoing a whole new level of style scrutiny. (Her other major flick, Tron, opens just before Christmas.) Going from reality star to feature film star is no easy feat, especially on the red carpet. But being tall, young, and beautiful certainly has its advantages. How Id Style It: I love this stark, pared-down vision of Yaya. I started with a gorgeous, minimal white Cline columnyes, its a familiar silhouette, but reimagined by the designer of the moment, Phoebe Philo, it feels so fresh. Most importantly, I added zero accessories except for a simple black headband. No flashy diamonds, no glitzy clutch, no upswept chignon. The look is easy and clean; it lets her beauty shine through, not unlike that of such stylish predecessors as Diana Ross and Liz Taylor. Think of it as a clean slate for a brilliant new career.
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SUITING UP
The Talent: Odette Yustman Seen In: You Again (2010); 2011s
The Double
Odette is no red-carpet newbie. Youve probably seen her glamming it up on the arm of her fianc, Brothers & Sisters Dave Annable, at industry events. But its her slew of upcoming movies that will put her center stage next awards season. How Id Style It: The best long-gown alternative may be no gown at all. Donning a tuxedo doesnt necessarily mean stepping on Ellen DeGeneres dapper toes. Seen on everyone from Cate Blanchett to Julia Roberts (and documented unforgettably in Helmut Newtons photos), the menswear staple is sleek and elegant without the fuss and flash of satin. Odette has such timeless beauty and grace that I took it one step further: the white tux. Think Bianca Jaggerher signature fashion statement is never dated.
2010s Unstoppable Most Likely to Attend: Peoples Choice Awards. Being the latest starlet to break onto the scene comes with plenty of sartorial pressure. Luckily, Elizabeth has both the acting chops and the cheekbones to captivate on arrival. How Id Style It: Wearing red on the red carpet might seem like a monochromatic mess, but when its worn in a sexy, youthful way, the color can be big newswithout blending into the background. Elizabeth is 27 years old, and this Halston dress, with its simple lines and hints of capital-F Fashion (epaulettes! short hemline! head-turning color!), is youthful and spirited, yet totally sophisticated, especially with a simple, swinging ponytail.
The Talent: Elizabeth Mathis Seen In: Next months Tron: Legacy;
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TEST PATTERN
The Talent: Gillian Jacobs Seen In: NBCs Community Most Likely to Attend: The Emmys.
Gillian stars as cute Britta Perry on Community, alongside funnymen Joel McHale and Chevy Chase. The red carpet offers her a chance to differentiate herself from her TV alter ego. How Id Style It: My biggest pet peeve is when young, beautiful girls overdo it, aging themselves prematurely with too much makeup, matronly hairdos, and heavy-duty bling. Theres plenty of time to look olderlike, when you actually get older! I was inspired by the Navajo feeling that Cher (the original red-carpet rebel) once loved so much, but wanted to put a fun, youthful spin on it that would garner attention on the big night without getting slammed in the morning papers. This Marchesa dress artfully combines print, color, and subtle fringe for a look that stands out in the best possible way.
SHORTS STORY
The Talent: Alyssa Bernal Coming soon: A debut album, In Love
Again for the First Time, featuring the single Cali, Cali, Cali Most Likely to Attend: MTVs VMAs. Though shes only 20, Alyssas YouTube videos have already been viewed 75 million times. In the past year, she was discovered by Pharrell, signed to Interscope, and named the opening act for Lifehouses current tour. How Id Style It: Thanks to such fashion renegades as Lady Gaga, Beyonc, Rihanna, and Katy Perry, pop stars dress to a different beat. Alyssa has a bit of a rock edge, so I kept her look strong and youthful but not ridiculous: leather shorts, a flashy sequin T-shirt, and the highest shoes I could find. Shes sexy and cool but not trying too hardat least, not until she has 12 number-one singles.
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Limo: Sami Sarkis/Getty Images; instruments: SuperStock/Getty Images. Gillian (top) wears: Marchesa dress, Christian Louboutin sandals. Alyssa (bottom) wears: Loft top, Joie shorts, Janis by Janis Savitt earrings, M.C.L by Matthew Campbell Laurenza bangles , Judith Leiber clutch, Giuseppe Zanotti Design wedge booties
2010 American Express Company. 10,000 bonus points credited within 8-10 weeks of rst purchase. Purchase must be made within one year from the time of Card account opening. Limit one o er per Card account. Pack Terms apply. Visit americanexpress.com/packterms for full details.
TAKE CHARGE.
Not even a recession could keep these influential lawyers, agents, directors, producers, managers, actors, executives, publicists, writers, and reality stars down! And who better to judge them than Deadline Hollywoods own Nikki Finke?
Ive gotta be honest: This has been a lousy year for women in Hollywood. Too many lost ground through firings, layoffs, and situations beyond their control in a deep recession characterized by mergers and acquisitions and shutdowns. So lets celebrate those among our sex still standing, doing more with less, trying to hang on by their fingernails, and talking others off the ledge. At the risk of sounding sexist, we women can handle any crisis better than men.
THETALENT
JOLIE
She has not gone under the knife and ruined her looks, as so many have. NICOLE (SNOOKI) POLIZZI Frankly, I dont give a damn about reality TV stars, but when a pint-size Italian warriorprincess makes MTVs parent, Viacom, an investor darling and rates a shout-out in the CEOs earnings call with Wall Street analysts, she has to be counted. NOOMI RAPACE & ROONEY MARA Rapace is Hollywoods new It Girl. As the hard-ass-on-a-Harley heroine in the Swedish version of Stieg Larssons book trilogy, most famously The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo, shes being considered for an Oscar. Rooney Mara won the most closely watched casting search for an actress since Gone With the Wind to star as Lisbeth Salander in the Hollywood version of Dragon Tattoo. That, and her big role in The Social Network, makes her the get of every media outlet. WONDER WOMAN 2.0 DC Comics rebooted this iconic amazon to appear as youve never seen her before. She may look ready for Goth Day at the Galleria, but its an epic new era of adventure for Wonder Woman, with story lines that plant her firmly in the modern world. And with cool accessories, too, like cuff-bracelet weaponry!
Collette, and Paul Rudd. But her clients also include Megan Fox, Dave Eggers, Samuel L. Jackson, and Geoffrey Wright. Jeanne Newman / Hansen Jacobson Last year we nodded to Newman for brokering the reality programming (Big Brother, The Marriage Ref) distributed by her client Endemol. Now were in awe of the $9 million, two-year deal she did for Mad Men creator and executive producer Matthew Weiner. All while making wine in her own vineyard!
BULLOCK
SNOOKI
FELKER NEWMAN
KEATON HANDLER
MARA
COOK
RAPACE
SANDRA BULLOCK She showed women how to kick a no-good man to the curb with dignity and style. This is why she has been and will be beloved by audiences everywhere. She can do it all: comedy, drama, real life. CHELSEA HANDLER Shes obnoxious, shes egotistical, and shell be the first one to admit it. She came out of virtually nowhere (thanks to a well-placed boyfriend whom shes since dumped). Now shes everywhereChelsea Lately and on magazine covers and writing booksYou cant help but admire her chutzpah. ANGELINA JOLIE Her latest film, The Tourist (December 2010), is so eagerly anticipated that the media attention was paralyzing those parts of Italy where it was shooting. She has become the ultimate movie-marketing pro, whether by enduring long autographsigning sessions at her pics premieres or braving the geeks at Comic-Con. She is the only woman in Hollywood who can reliably open a blockbuster. DIANE KEATON This comedienne has lasted all these years because she keeps the drama on-screen and not on set. We should all look so good:
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THEMURDOCHS
Wonder Woman: Don Kramer DC Comics; remaining images: Getty Images/WireImage
Elisabeth Murdoch / Group Chairman and CEO, Shine Group She steadfastly refuses her fathers wish that she join the News Corp. board. Thats because shes built a powerful production company, Shine, creating scripted and unscripted worldwide programming. Wendi Deng Murdoch / Chief Strategist, MySpace China Sure, shes the former News Corp. exec who broke up Ruperts marriage. But dont underestimate her: Shes an expert on multimedia enterprise in China and has been a force of nature at MySpace.
THELA WYERS
Melanie Cook / Ziffren Brittenham The first female partner at her powerhouse firm, Cook represents, among many others, Tim Burton, Sam Mendes, Stephen Daldry, Nancy Meyers, and Justin Timberlake. Patti Felker / Felker Toczek Hers is a cool and eclectic roster, including Orlando Bloom, Zac Efron, Candace Bushnell, Jeremy Piven, and Jeremy Renner. Felker is known for nurturing clients growth: Her writers become directors, actors become producersand Felker becomes richer. Deborah Klein / Jackoway Tyerman She has a rep for repping top comedic talents such as Jim Carrey, Will Ferrell, Toni
THE MOVIEEXECUTIVES
Liza Chasin / President of U.S. Production, Working Title Films Chasin is known for Dead Man Walking, but for the last decade she has been churning out flicks that appeal to Anglophiles: the Bridget Joneses, About a Boy, Notting Hill, Pride & Prejudice, Atonement. Heres hoping Nanny McPhee Returns is but a blip on her rsum.
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Mad Women
This is a show mostly about men written mostly by women, which is rare in Hollywood. As a consequence, the powerful female portrayals captivate us as much as does Don Draper. Joan (Christina Hendricks), Peggy (Elisabeth Moss), Betty (January Jones), and, this season, Dr. Faye (Cara Buono) are some of the most interesting women ever to hit television. The actresses, writers, and producers are brilliantly channeling the issues of sexism, marriage, divorce, adultery, and ambitionall of which we are still grappling with today.
Coutaz is sitting pretty: Shes producing Cowells next UK import, The X Factor. Bonnie Hammer / President, NBC Universal Cable Entertainment Hammer turned a sleepy cable channel into a ratings giantUSA Network averaged 3.4 million viewers this summerwith its delectable guilty-pleasure shows (Burn Notice, Royal Pains, Covert Affairs). Jane Lipsitz / Cofounder, Magical Elves After a career begun as the worst assistant ever to grace the music division of ICM, Lipsitz turned it around to eventually become a driving force behind Project Runway and Top Chef. Sue Naegle / President, HBO Entertainment Her latest good deed in a career as a friend to writers was to order a half-hour comedy pilot from Judd Apatow and hot young prodigy Lena Dunham (Tiny Furniture). Dawn Ostroff / President of Entertainment, The CW Give her a prize for longevity: nine years in the job (at the CW and predecessor UPN). Anne Sweeney / Cochairman, Disney Media Networks; President, Disney ABC Television Group Sweeneys network is riding a tide of success, with the enduring Dancing With the Stars and after Modern Family bested 30 Rock as best comedy series at the Emmys. Nina Tassler / President, CBS Entertainment A megarisk taker whos replacing As the World Turns with a mommy-and-me-esque daytime gabfest, The Talk, and claims zero qualms about green-lighting a show with $#*! in the title (as in $#*! My Dad Says). Dana Walden / Cochairman, Twentieth Century Fox Television Under the oversight of Walden and cochair Gary Newman, Fox TV Studios continues to grow in scripted material. Walden should be positively Glee-ful about the 2010 Emmys.
WALDEN HAMMER
Elizabeth Gabler / President, Fox 2000 Pictures Her good shepherding of Walk the Line just landed her Reese Witherspoon starring and Nora Ephron writing and directing a biopic of singer Peggy Lee. Sue Kroll / President of Worldwide Marketing, Warner Bros. Pictures Maybe the most powerful woman in movie marketing, she helped the Harry Potters, Oceans Twelve and Thirteen, and Batman Begins score big bucks and Warner Bros. Pictures International gross $2.4 billion in one yearan industry record. Donna Langley / Cochairman, Universal Pictures Heres a vote of confidence: Just after she got back from maternity leave, she got the bump up to cochair. Amy Pascal / Cochairman, Sony Pictures Entertainment This summer she helped turn water into wine for Sony, not with franchises, as in years past, but with The Karate Kid, Salt, The Other Guys, and Eat Pray Love. Stacey Snider / Cochairman and CEO, DreamWorks Studios Still Spielbergs right hand, she and he optioned the World War I epic War Horse, which Spielberg will direct for a 2011 release.
HENDRICKS JONES
MOSS
THEANIMATION SUPERPOWERS
Darla K. Anderson / Producer, Pixar She was the driving force behind arguably the best movie of 2010: Toy Story 3. Anderson, currently mulling her next project, was the first animation producer to be elected to the Board of Directors of the Producers Guild of America. Bonnie Arnold / Producer Arnold got her first break as a producer on Toy Story. She then produced Tarzan and this years DreamWorks blockbuster How to Train Your Dragon, which grossed almost half a billion worldwide. Did anyone say sequel? Yes, they did. Diane Nelson / President, DC Entertainment At DCs parent company, Warner Bros., Nelson steered the Harry Potter franchise from the page into theaters, toy stores, theme parks, and home DVD collections. Now shell do the same for Wonder Woman, Green Lantern, Flash, and Aquaman. Jennifer Yuh Nelson / Director She started as an illustrator in the mid-90s and worked her way up the ladder through Spawn, Spirit, Sinbad, Madagascar, and Kung Fu Panda. Now Nelson, one of a very few female animation directors, is directing Pandas sequel, due out in 2011.
LANGLEY
KROLL
GABLER
PASCAL
Angela Bromstad / President of PrimeTime Entertainment, NBC Universal Shes still powerful, but after the Conan vs. Jay debacle and the impending doom of Steve Carell departing The Office in 2011, Bromstad has her work cut out for her. Nancy Dubuc / President and General Manager, A&Es Lifetime and History networks Shes presided over 31 percent ratings growth at the History Channel and now will work her magic on Lifetime, too. Cecile Frot-Coutaz / CEO, FremantleMedia North America The producing giant behind American Idol and Americas Got Talent. Even though Simon Cowell said goodbye to Idol, Frot-
FROT-COUTAZ
THEDO-GOODERS
DUBUC BROMSTAD NAEGLE
Nancy Biederman / Cofounder, Saving the Lives of Our Own Shes leading the fightso far, successfullyto keep the Motion Picture Television Fund Nursing Home open. Stacy Codikow / Founder and Executive Director, Power Up Codikow is dedicated to promoting the visibility of gay women in media.
SWEENEY
LIPSITZ
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OSTROFF
TASSLER
THE TV EXECUTIVES
justintimberlake.com
FOR HER
FOR HIM
Sherry Lansing / CEO and Founder, Sherry Lansing Foundation Lisa Paulsen / President and CEO, The Entertainment Industry Foundation Laura Ziskin / Producer These three Hollywood dynamos are behind Stand Up to Cancer and organized a big star-studded TV fundraiser in September.
Tracey Jacobs / United Talent Agency One of the few women on the board of a big agency, Jacobs reps Gwyneth Paltrow and Harrison Ford, was with Johnny Depp from the beginning, and now has Gabourey Sidibe. Theresa Peters / United Talent Agency Snagged in 2008 from William Morris to be a partner and head of talent, she counts Kirsten Dunst, James McAvoy, Ewan MacGregor, and January Jones as clients. Hylda Queally / Creative Artists Agency She reps a classy list of ladies who win Oscars: Cate Blanchett, Kate Winslet, Penlope Cruz, and Marion Cotillard. Sonya Rosenfeld / Creative Artists Agency Shes the force behind major TV packaging deals, repping Veena Sud, Salma Hayeks Ventanarosa, and Graham Yost. Jennifer Rudolph Walsh / William Morris Endeavor Entertainment The only woman on the WME board and head of the profitable book division, she recently sold Portia de Rossis memoir of growing up an anorexic lesbian. Elyse Scherz / William Morris Endeavor Entertainment She reps Rebecca Hall, Sacha Baron Cohen, Javier Bardem, and Gael Garci Bernal. Beth Swofford / Creative Artists Agency It was Swofford whom James Cameron went to (after 15 years without an agent) when he decided he wanted repping again.
QUEALLY SCHERZ
THEPUBLICISTS
Kelly Bush / Founder and CEO, ID PR A power player who doesnt abuse her power. As a consequence, her roster is hot and heavyweight: Ben Stiller, Dustin Hoffman, Javier Bardem, Catherine Keener, Paul Reubens, and Josh Brolin. Mara Buxbaum / ID PR When Heath Ledger died, she won kudos from colleagues for her deft quashing of the How Did He Die? stories. If youve been naughty (Sean Penn, Winona Ryder), shes your damage controller. Leslee Dart / Founder and CEO, 42West Dart is a class act with A-class talent: Woody Allen, Penlope Cruz, Jonathan Demme, Tom Hanks, Nicole Kidman, Mike Nichols, Martin Scorsese, and Meryl Streep.
The Twilighters
Thanks to a team of brilliant women, the Twilight saga has grossed $380 million worldwide, making it one of the most formidable franchises ever. Screenwriter Melissa Rosenberg scripted Twilight, New Moon, Eclipse, and Breaking Dawn parts 1 and 2, all based on Stephenie Meyers wildly successful novels (shes sold a record 85 million books to date and is also a producer). Summit Entertainments Nancy Kirkpatrick (president of worldwide marketing) is responsible for launching a shrewd social network ad campaign that is credited with heightening fan anticipation, while Summits executive VP and head of physical production, Andi Isaacs, helped shape the modern tween-noir look of the film. And of course, theres the vehicles star, Kristen Stewart, whom the franchise couldnt live withoutand frankly, vice versa.
KIRKPATRICK
THESCRIBES
Nellie Andreeva / TV Editor, Deadline Hollywood She was the queen of TV scoops at The Hollywood Reporterand now works for yours truly! Believe me, the story doesnt exist unless shes written it. Manohla Dargis / Co-Chief Film Critic, The New York Times Dargis, who didnt like Sex and the City 2, wrote insightfully about how people who hated it had gone over the edge into misogyny. She also took Hollywood to task for its crappy track record on women directors, and women directors to task for making crappy romantic comedies, rather than more Hurt Lockers.
Team Conan
PETERS SWOFFORD Conan: Frank Ockenfels/CPI; Jacobs: John Russo; remaining images: Getty Images/WireImage
THEAGENTS
Kassie Evashevski / United Talent Agency Shes the agent who dropped James Frey (on principle, she says) and, as part of UTAs Motion Picture Lit department, sold bigscreen versions of Twilight; Eat Pray Love; and Girl With the Dragon Tattoo. Risa Gertner / Creative Artists Agency As cohead of the motion-picture literary department, she manages a roster that includes Emmy-toting writers Matthew Weiner (for Mad Men) and Michael Patrick King (for Sex and the City). Sharon Jackson / William Morris Endeavor Entertainment She reps some of TVs funniest players: Amy Poehler, Will Arnett, Jack Black, Lea Michele, and Jason Schwartzman.
THEMANAGERS
Aleen Keshishian / Partner and Manager, Brillstein Entertainment Partners She reps Paul Rudd (My Idiot Brother), Natalie Portman (her Black Swan is generating Oscar buzz, and she was offered Alfonso Cuarons Gravity after Angelina Jolie pulled out), Zoe Saldana (Avatar), Mark Ruffalo (The Kids Are All Right), and the much-revered Laura Linney. Cynthia Pett-Dante / Co-owner and Managing Partner, Brillstein Entertainment Partners Pett-Dante is the insider for Brad Pitt in Terrence Malicks The Tree of Life; for Courteney Cox, whose Cougar Town still has claws; and for Casey Affleck, who never stops making interesting choices.
Yes, the agents were men, but the real heavy lifters were the lawyers who threatened, cajoled, and ultimately ironed out deals for Conan to leave NBC and go to TBS. Leigh Brecheen (of Bloom Hergott) oversaw Conans Tonight Show contract. Patricia Glaser (of Glaser Weil) is whom he brought in to negotiate with the network when it dropped the time-change bomb. Sandra Dewey is the Turner Entertainment Networks SVP who worked through her vacation to get him to TBS. Almost $40 million bucks for the summer off and a new show on TBSthat he owns? We should all have such people around us.
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LOOKSHARP
Jason Wu
From classically tailored walking shorts to 60s-style sack suits, ELLEs Fashion-Know-It-All Anne Slowey shows you how to get hep for resort
Dear FKIA, Ive always liked pantsuits, but how do I wear them without looking stuffy? Charlotte, Jackson, MS confidence for men to pull off, though suburban middle-class nerds adopted high-water trou as their uniform in the 50s and 60s. Michael Jackson was perhaps the most famous proponent of the look, favoring it to best show off his flashy moves. For spring, the present-day arbiter of the skimpy suit, Thom Browne, plans to offer madras-plaid versions for women nearly identical to those he showed for men last July for spring 2011. His preferred silhouette is casual yet crispand nothing fits the bill better than the 60s suit, he says. The way the sleeve goes into the shoulder is deliberately relaxed and imperfect. Its a truly American sensibility. Designers on both coasts of the Atlantic are, uh, following suit. Givenchys Riccardo Tisci whipped up his in clergy red. Stella McCartney opted for a single-breasted brilliant blue. Reed Krakoff, for his own line, showed a double-breasted version in a muted gray (for the color-shy), with the line close enough to the body to prevent the jacket from being overly boxy. Pants are creased and cuffed and perfect for the seasons obsession with oxfords. Warning: Theres nothing less hep than taking a menswear look thats perfectly balanced between casual and formal and mucking it up with a pair of prissy heels.
Louis Vuitton
Stella McCartney
Dear FKIA, I love wearing shorts, but how do I dress them up? Tina, Cedar Valley, OK
Dear Tina, Having spent the past five months waddling around with yet-to-be-named baby X in my belly, I havent really given much thought to wearing shorts or dressing up. Huh ? My standard what-not-to wear joke last summer involved carrying triplets, one in the front and two in the rear. So by the time this hits the newsstands, though baby Violet or Plum will hopefully have a name to call her own, yet another summer will have passed where Ive foresworn shorts. But fear not! Resort is right around the corner! I think part of my resistance has been twofold: Environment-appropriateness and a healthy reluctance to jump on the bandwagon while it makes its first few rounds at the rodeo. Working a trend before it establishes itself as more than a flash in the pan is better left to the preclock tickers (PCTs), as I now refer to anyone under 30. These lucky chicks can get away with anything mainly because the cuteness factor is still in play. For them, its enough to throw on a pair of pumps
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for shorts to be office-ready. Which is what makes resorts sophisticated take on this sport-camp classic To Die For! (in the exclamatory terms of the movie that marked Nicole Kidmans shiningest hour). Too-trendy styles often find their shelf life in the lower-priced (read: younger) markets. But from Louis Vuittons walking ensemble and Stella McCartneys trench version to Jason Wus belle epoque Little-Boy-Blue-by-thesea suit, these cityworthy looks are as luxurious for nights out as they are for days at the office. Lets be honest: When something this chic comes strutting down the runway, it does so at a price. Best paired with flatsget that Physique 57 class card ready, girls these well-crafted outfits are a pulled-together option for the woman unwilling to walk a line that might veer toward the vulgar or look like its heading straight for the beach. Only a woman of means will be able to afford these looks. And perhaps thats poetic justice. The post-PCTers have earned the right to compete when it comes to supershort. But, my little pretties, Im afraid the game is rigged: When you look as chic as you do in Vuitton, McCartney, and Wu, the less-expensive version will just never measure up.
Stella McCartney
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Runway: courtesy of the designers; Bergman: Mondadori/Getty Images; Hermans Hermits: Keystone/Getty Images
Dear Charlotte, Theres certainly nothing stuffy about the colorful 60s-style suits that designers are so enamored of right now for resort. After seasons of serious, somber dresses in cityscape palettes of granite, charcoal, and camel, these trim, primary-colored numbers not only feel ultramodern (in the post-post sense) but signal that fashion is in the mood for a little fun. Many assume that these suits, featuring softershouldered jackets and highwater trousers, got their start with the British Invasion bands of the early 60sHermans Hermits, anyone? But their origins can actually be traced to the sportswear that American men cottoned to in the 1950s after returning from WWIIthink the Rat Pack swilling cocktails at a Palm Springs nightclub. Jackets were mostly singlebreasted and fitted, with narrow lapels; pants were often creased, cuffed, and worn just above the ankle. The look is flattering for women but requires a little more
From above: Life Ball poster on Viennas City Hall; Cole with Life Ball models; Navi partygoers; Rockettes in Diane von Furstenberg; Lydia Hearst in Kenneth Cole
THEGOODLIFE M
Designer Kenneth Cole travels to Vienna for the Life Ball and discovers goodwill is the best party favor, come rain or shine. By Bob Morris
odel-actresses Lydia Hearst and Rebecca Romijn were hoping for a quiet flight to Vienna. The next day would be a blur of fittings and appearances for a runway show for Kenneth Cole, one of three designers being featured at Viennas annual bacchanal AIDS fundraiser known as the Life Ball. And then there was the event itself to rest up for: part gay costume party, part nineteenth-century Viennese waltz extravaganza, with an expected 40,000 revelers dancing and drinking and otherwise whooping it up from dusk to dawn. Worn out from a week with her twin toddler girls, Romijn didnt seem to notice that the chartered Austrian Airlines flight was a veritable Life Ball preparty, peopled by other models, stylists, Patti LaBelle plus entourage, 24 Rockettes, and a crew of flight attendants sashaying down the aisles flipping feather boas. Romijn fell asleep, in a window seat next to her actor husband, Jerry OConnell. Hearst, meanwhile, stuck two hot-pink earplugs in her ears and two skyblue sleeping pills in her mouth. My mom [Patty Hearst Shaw] turned me on to these pills and they really work, she said, before nodding off. In the morning, when it was time to land, Hearst and Romijn awoke, rubbed their eyes, and slapped on full makeup before disembarking straight into a tarmac press conference hosted by Red Bull, one of the Life Balls sponsors. The whole thing was very La Dolce Vita (or perhaps Linzer Louche), as was the midnight party later at Le Mridien Hotel, attended by Cole and the Vienna cult band Bunny Lake, who were scheduled to perform at his fashion show the next night. I havent done a runway show since 2006, said Cole amid the merrymaking. The designer was an early and outspoken supporter of AIDS causes through ad campaigns and message T-shirts (WE ALL HAVE AIDS), and as a chairman of amfAR, the American Foundation for AIDS Research. But this is really important to me, because I have always said that its not what you stand in, its what you stand for. Which is not to say we arent having fun! The next night, before the Life Ball (which raised $2 million through ticket sales and donations)
began, a massive crowd clad in everything from formalwear to underwear (also present were earth mothers, sequin palm forests, animals, insects, and blue-painted Naviall adhering to the balls theme of earth) cheered the arrival of Bill Clinton, Whoopi Goldberg, Boris Becker, Dita Von Teese, and assorted other celebs, aristos, and royals. Along with Cole, Diane von Furstenberg, and Calvin Kleins Francisco Costa (the events other two presenting designers), the VIPs walked the red carpet in front of Viennas City Hall, which was lit so colorfully it made the Disney castle look like a garden shed. The evening was terribly hot and muggy, but the many nearly naked carousers werent the only ones dressed for the heat. As part of a special Life Ball collection, Coles new creative director, Ingo Wilts, who joined the company after 10 years at Hugo Boss, put the petite Hearst in a skimpy white one-piece swimsuit covered with red AIDS ribbons. We went for a very provocative look, Wilts said of a collection that included raspberry patent leather platform pumps, studded sneakers, white leather hot pants, and perforated sheaths. We wanted everything to pop on the runway. Including Romijn, it seemed, who was in a very tight white tee by Cole that boldly declared: WEAR A RUBBER. Of course we do, she told her husband, who was also waiting to walk the runway, wearing a white Cole tuxedo jacket over his bare, tan chest. I mean, we already have twins, right? A few minutes later, the skies opened up. Guests scattered for elaborate parties around the city. The crestfallen Rockettes (the party was to have been their first European appearance in years) did a photo op with von Furstenberg in the colorful mini-wraps she had designed for them. Calvin Kleins Costa quietly watched his models strip off the dramatic black dresses from his fall collection and change into shorts and flip-flops. Cole could not hide his dismay at the rain. But I guess whats important is the cause and the money raised, he told an associate. Nearby, Romijn watched the showstopping deluge with her husband. If they want to turn it into a wet T-shirt contest, Im game, she said.
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From left: Bill Clinton; parade revelers; lead singer of Bunny Lake, Teresa Rotschopf (aka Suzy on the Rocks) in a dress by Kenneth Cole; model in a Kenneth Cole shirt; models and Austrian Airlines flight attendants
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Fetherston, wearing the collection she designed for Juicy Couture, at Vacation Vinyl (left) and Soap Plant/Wacko (right)
CALIFORNIA DREAMIN
s someone who recently moved from New York to L.A., designer Erin Fetherston has a theory as to why West Coast women take more fashion risks: cars. When youre driving, you dont have to think, This will be really good when I get to where Im going, but can I wear it on the subway? she says, with her trademark giggle. Fetherstons had plenty of time to ponder such geographical sartorialisms, what with all the bicoastal red-eye flights shes been taking. Shes juggling her eponymous readyto-wear line in Manhattan with her new job as creative consultant for Juicy Couture, where the 29-year-old now oversees womens apparel and accessories. Initially, Fetherston, who specializes in romantic, floaty dresses in silky European fabrics, seemed an unexpected choice for Juicy, the company that turned velour
1. Petit Ermitage For the rooftop pool 8822 Cynthia Street, 310-854-1114
Erin Fetherston teams up with Juicy Couture and brings her romantic vision to the house of velour
Photographed by Jason Odell (hair by Davy Newkirk for Tracey Mattingly; makeup by Lauren Andersen at the Wall Group); remaining images: courtesy of the locations
A
Fetherston, in more Juicy designs, at the Petit Ermitage (top left), French General (left), and Shareen Vintage (right)
tracksuits into a multimillion-dollar business. But with her debut collection for holiday, the bleached blond has quickly proved herself the right woman for the job. Her very first design for the label was a plunging floor-length gown with a draped back in golden velour. I wanted to respect what the brand was already about, she says. I could relate to the core DNA values: free-spirited, casual clothing with a sense of fantasy, imagination, and whimsy, which, in a way, isnt so different from my own line. The final 11-piece, 30s-inspired collection features other sumptuous velour dresses, such as a short version of that first gown in colors like Berry Noir and African Sun. Theres also a velvet empire-waist babydoll with a bow across the bust, a velvet jacket with rhinestone embellishment on the pockets and collar, and a velour dolman-sleeve jacket with sateen lapels and encrusted buttons. Playing up Juicys leisurewear signature, Fetherston has included a washed-silk jumpsuit and drawstring trousers. Its taking something thats supereasy and elevating it with a glamorous aesthetic, says Fetherston. Plus, I think you have so much more fun at a party when youre comfortable. To road test how well she did, the designer agreed to style her favorite pieces as she would wear them around town. At her rented Los Feliz home, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright Jr., Fetherston shimmied into a jersey T-shirt with a jewel-print necklace and a silk crepe skirt. Everything is seriously cute, she says, with a charming show of pride, then adds, I didnt even bother changing between locations, just chillin in the van in my halter dress with elastic through the back. Lets call it car-culture chic.Whitney Vargas
2. Vacation Vinyl For the album cover art 3815 West Sunset Boulevard, 323-666-2111
3. Shareen Vintage For hanging out while shopping 350 North Avenue 21, 323-276-6226
5. Soap Plant/Wacko For gifts and books 4633 Hollywood Boulevard, 323-663-0122
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ENGLISH ROSY
A London jewelry designer finds inspiration in modern L.A. glamour
From top: The Rodeo Drive store interior, AzaguryPartridges cheeky creations; the designer
1. Pacific Palisades modern architecture tour: I love the Eames House and homes by Richard Neutra. modcom.org/202020.shtml
3. The Fountain Coffee Room at the Beverly Hills Hotel: Old Hollywood burgers and shakes. beverlyhillshotel.com
Manhattan design darlings Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock are bewitched by old Hollywood magic
We can just imagine Greta Garbo drinking gimlets and loafing around by the pool, say Vena Cava designers Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai of the storied Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles, where the actress famously retreated. We spent three days in a room last spring, Buhai says. We sketched, made collages, and ordered room serviceit looked like a teenagELLE
HO TELCALIFORNIA
ers bedroom by the time we were done! After their long weekend, they returned home to work on their spring collection. Full of slinky 1930sstyle gowns and California prints inspired by the hotels glamorous guests (and ghosts) and overgrown jasmine plants, the duos newest creations are perfect for elegant revelry or just vanting to be alone.A.B.
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Mayock, right, and Buhai, holed up in the Chateau Marmont. Below left: A sketch for s/s 2011
1. The Wiltern Theater: The most stunning art deco venuea great place to see a show. wilterntheatertickets.com
2. Hidden Treasures: For amazing leather jackets and 1930s lingerie. 310-455-2998
3. The Smell: The best place to see experimental art rock. Anything can happen here and anything goes. thesmell.org
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Pacific Palisades modern architecture: Alan Weintraub/Arcaid/Corbis; Fred Segal: Robert Mora/Getty Images; remaining images: courtesy of the subjects and locations
Solange Azagury-Partridge has always had a flair for the dramatic, whether its her decadently cheeky jewelry collectionsher last was a selection of engagement rings featuring enameled carrots in place of diamonds or her recent foray into film, producing a short featuring her line, starring a bejeweled Thandie Newton. It should come as no surprise, then, that the London-based designer opens her third store in Los Angeles this month. Complete with a starry carpet inspired by Hollywood Boulevard and brand-new treasures including emerald-studded disco-ball earrings and a diamond tiara, the Rodeo Drive shop will no doubt be brimming with modern-day Marilyns.Alexa Brazilian
www.frey-wille.com
vienna, austria
NEW YORK: 727 Madison Avenue SANTA MONICA: 219 Arizona Avenue | 877 836 2635 VANCOUVER: 511 Howe Street | vancouver@frey-wille.ca | 604 569 0814
Clemente on set (left) and stills from her new documentary series, Beginnings
CLEMENTES L.A.
1. The Huntington Botanical Gardens For walking the grounds and sipping tea in the Rose Garden 1151 Oxford Rd., 626-405-2100
3. Chateau Marmont For ping-pong by the pool 8221 Sunset Blvd., 323-656-1010
Coppola (left) and stills from an Opening Ceremony video she directed, starring Dunst and Schwartzman
COPPOLAS L.A.
GIRLS ON FILM
At 23 , Gia Coppola has quite an impressive rsum: Shes directed Kirsten Dunst and Jason Schwartzman (Coppolas cousin) in a video for Opening Ceremony; collaborated with Spike Jonze; and filmed the Like performing in a Zac-Posen-for-Target short. The photographer/ filmmaker with the famous last nameFrancis Ford is her grandfather; Sofia is her aunt recently graduated from Bard Colleges rigorous studio arts program and moved back to
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1. Musso and Franks For good martinis 6667 Hollywood Blvd., 323-467-7788
The latest member of the genetically gifted Coppola clan to come of age brings her indie aesthetic to fashion and photography
California, to be closer to her tight-knit family. L.A. is just so much more laid-back and comfortable than New York, says Coppola, who personifies lo-fi West Coast cool with her unassuming boatneck tees, lived-in designer one-offs, and ballet flats. Of her burgeoning career in fashion and film, she says, I kind of just fell into it. Theyre all people Im friendly with, so its not much of a long shot. While the kids back in Omaha sigh, another indie star is born.W.V.
2. Larchmont Beauty Center For everything and anything beauty 208 N. Larchmont Blvd., 323-461-0162
3. Little Tokyo For the Hello Kitty store, Shabu Shabu, and the Tokyo Spa Downtown Los Angeles
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Clemente portrait and film stills: courtesy of the Sundance Channel; Coppola: Andrew Durham/CPI Syndication; film stills: Gia Coppola; Huntington Gardens: Andrea Jones/Alamy; Little Tokyo: Joseph Sohm/Alamy; remaining images: courtesy of the locations
2. Scout For home and fashion finds that no one else will have 1646 N. Cherokee Ave., 323-658-8684
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2. Dragon Books One of my favorite placesrare first editions, 1940s bookends, and more! dragonbooks.com
Top: Frankie Rayder trying on a lace cami and straw hat; a selection of the stores vintage eyewear
2. Ooga Booga A Chinatown shopgreat vintage gifts and they host music and art shows. oogaboogastore.com
In a town dominated by brand-name vintage stores with price tags to match, Kitty Jensens Secret Shop is a rare breed. Forgoing big-ticket items from Azzedine Alaa, Pucci, and Dior, Jensen carries T-shirts, little lace dresses, and sunglasses with an average price of $50. Visitors to the shop, which is based in the 31-year-olds small apartment in we-cant-tell-you-where Los Angeles, learn of its location only after making an appointment via her website (secretshopvintage.com). However, the boutique has none of the attitude youd expect after such a fuss. Theres no pressure to buy, she says.
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There are treats and snacks. Customers are treated like friends. Indeed, most of them are, including performance artist Miranda July and model Frankie Rayder, who posed for the shops first lookbook. Shot by skateboard photographer Patrick ODell, the book features Jensens favorite finds, including a Neiman Marcus slip, a crochet dress from the 20s, and a two-tier lace camisole. And unlike most of her counterparts, Jensen keeps a notebook of clients requests in order to track down exactly what theyve been looking for. Consider her your new secret weapon.A.B.
3. Le Pink & Co. Apothecary An adorable beauty shop with the best organic facials. lepinkandcompany .com
4. The Trails Cafe A rustic little spot under the Griffith Park Observatory with homemade treats and coffee. thetrailslosfeliz.com
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Still lifes: Len Lagrua; Rayder: Patrick ODell; remaining images: courtesy of the designers and locations
UNDERCOVER AGENT
as Daniela Villegas and K Brunini Jewels and features a rotating stable of contemporary artwork from the likes of Claire Oswalt and Alison Van Pelt. Basically, its the kind of store most of us only dream of shopping in. But at the new outpost in Santa Monica, theres hope for us all. Its much more relaxed, Rose says. And you dont have to make an appointment. In addition to her regular stable of designers and her own one-of-a-kind baubles, Rose is selling a lower-priced line of Navajo-inspired beaded suede necklaces and earrings and sea serpent rings that start at $400. A small price to pay to mingle with the stars.A.B.
3. Scribble Press Kids can hand-make books. Art projects for days! scribblepress.com
JENSENS L.A.
1. Blue Collar Working Dog A family-owned pet store in Echo Park. bluecollarworkingdog .com
NORDSTROM
Styling by Kate Lanphear (hair by Jordan M for Bumble and bumble; makeup by James Boehmer for Nars Cosmetics; manicure by Kim Chiu for Mark Edward Inc.; model: Beata Grabowska at Wilhelmina Models); for details, see Shopping Guide
Serpui Marie
Chanel
er emb v o N 10
y olida h s i th ave y the W New pired b ding h c n Fre oks ins their lea e h t lo Ride on with ters and d by seas es mas graphe r gen s. Photo iteside ladie as Wh m Tho
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Swimsuit, CHANEL, $696, call 800-550-0005. Straw tote bag with leather handles, SERPUI MARIE, $345, at Absolutely Suitable at The Breakers, Palm Beach, FL. Gingham platforms with wood heels, EMPORIO ARMANI, $650, at Emporio Armani, Beverly Hills
Emporio Armani
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CHANNEL JANE BIRKINS SEXY INNOCENCE IN GINGHAM PRINTS FIT FOR A DIPOR JUST SITTING PRETTY
2. Chanel
CHANEL
1. Chanel
3. 6 Shore Road
8. Dior
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Birkin: Rue des Archives/The Granger Collection, New York; Chanel dress, 6 Shore Road romper, and AKA New York shirt: Devon Jarvis (Chanel dress styled by Eddy Alcantara for Mark Edward Inc.; remaining items styled by Bill Laughlin for Mark Edward Inc.); remaining still lifes and runway images: courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide
La Piscine
RETURN TO CLASSIC FRANCOPHONE FEMININITY WITH PRETTY PASTELS AND DECORATED EXTRAS
LOUIS VUITTON
9. Marc Jacobs
3. Marysia Swim
4. Marc Jacobs
8. Nina Ricci
7. Dior
6. Louis Vuitton
5. Louis Vuitton
1. Sunglasses, MARC JACOBS, price upon request, call 212-343-1490 | 2. Rhodium-plated ring with crystals, SWAROVSKI, $270, visit swarovski.com | 3. Cotton-blend bra top, MARYSIA SWIM, $183, visit marysiaswimstore.com | 4. Paillette-trim tweed and lam twill skirt, MARC JACOBS, $1,400, at Marc Jacobs, NYC | 5. Printed ballet flats, LOUIS VUITTON, $730, call 866-VUITTON | 6. Silk knit dress, $2,220, belt, price upon request, both, LOUIS VUITTON, visit louisvuitton.com | 7. Embroidered canvas bag, DIOR, $3,600, call 800-929-DIOR | 8. Cotton denim wedge, NINA RICCI, $795, at Tender, Birmingham, MI | 9. Striped crewneck cardigan, MARC JACOBS, $995, at Marc Jacobs, NYC
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Bardot: Rue des Archives; Swarovski ring, Nina Ricci wedge, and runway images: courtesy of the designers; remaining still lifes: Devon Jarvis (Marc Jacobs glasses and Louis Vuitton dress styled by Eddy Alcantara for Mark Edward Inc.; remaining items styled by Bill Laughlin for Mark Edward Inc.); for details, see Shopping Guide
Parisian Prep
ALPHAVILLE , 1965
LOOK THE PART OF ANNA KARINA IN ALPHAVILLE WITH SCALLOP DETAILS AND GLAMOUR-GIRL MUST-HAVES
1. Gymboree
3. Judith Leiber
CHRISTIAN DIOR
2 Oscar de la Renta
4. Dior
7. Marc Jacobs
6. Stella McCartney
5. Marc Jacobs
1. Sunglasses, GYMBOREE, $10, visit gymboree.com | 2. Eyelet embroidered silk faille gown with maco bead bow, OSCAR DE LA RENTA , price upon request, collection at Saks Fifth Avenue stores nationwide | 3. Minaudire, JUDITH LEIBER, $3,995, visit judithleiber.com | 4. Matte lambskin dress, DIOR, price upon request, call 800-929-DIOR | 5. Ankle-strap kitten-heel pump, MARC JACOBS, $895, call 212-343-1490 | 6. Silk and elastane bra, STELLA M C CARTNEY, $125, collection at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC | 7. Cropped tweed jacket, $1,400, skirt, price upon request, both, MARC JACOBS, at Marc Jacobs, NYC
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Gymboree glasses, Judith Leiber clutch, Stella McCartney bra, and runway images: courtesy of the designers; remaining still lifes: Devon Jarvis (Marc Jacobs jacket and skirt styled by Bill Laughlin for Mark Edward Inc; remaining items styled by Eddy Alcantara for Mark Edward Inc.); for details, see Shopping Guide
Half Moon
november 2010
Get stylish promotions, check out exclusive events, and be rst to know about the hottest offers. Visit ELLEextra.com for more fashion-forward info.
ELNETT
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PINPOINT FRENCH CHIC WITH SWEETLY SPOTTED SEPARATES AND GRAPHIC ACCESSORIES
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
1. Marc Jacobs
4. Moschino
8. Marc Jacobs
5. Moschino
7. Eberjey
6. Miu Miu
1. Silk twill halter, MARC JACOBS, $525, at Marc Jacobs, NYC | 2. Cutout dress, MIU MIU, $1,395, visit miumiu.com | 3. Scarf, MIU MIU, $145, at select Miu Miu boutiques nationwide | 4. Silk crepe de chine skirt, MOSCHINO, $865, at select Nordstrom stores nationwide | 5. Quilted napa bag, MOSCHINO, $970, call 212-243-1490 | 6. Platform sandal, MIU MIU, $495, visit miumiu.com | 7. Nylon and spandex bikini, EBERJEY, $137, visit eberjey.com | 8. Sunglasses, MARC JACOBS, price upon request, at Marc Jacobs, NYC
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Charlotte et Son Jules : Rue des Archives/The Granger Collection, New York; runway: courtesy of the designers; Miu Miu dress: Len Lagrua; remaining still lifes: Devon Jarvis (Marc Jacobs halter, sunglasses, and Moschino skirt styled by Eddy Alcantara for Mark Edward Inc.; remaining items styled by Bill Laughlin for Mark Edward Inc.); for details, see Shopping Guide
Simply Dotty
GET AROUND TOWN LIKE MACHA MERIL S CHARACTER IN THE GODARD CLASSIC A MARRIED WOMAN IN THIS SEASONS SHADY TAKE ON FEMININE FLORALS
1. Stella McCartney
CHRIS BENZ
3. Zimmermann
7. Chris Benz
6. Le Vian
5. Jonathan Saunders
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Une Femme Marie : courtesy of the Everett Collection; Stella McCartney jacket, Chris Benz shorts, Jonathan Saunders dress, and Zimmermann swimsuit: Devon Jarvis (Jonathan Saunders dress styled by Eddy Alcantara for Mark Edward Inc.; remaining items styled by Bill Laughlin for Marc Edward Inc.); remaining still lifes and runway images: courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide
T wilight Zone
Belles Fleurs
START A BUDDING ROMANCE WITH SOFT APPLIQU DRESSES, BLOOMING SEPARATES, AND FLOWER-BEDECKED ACCESSORIES
2. Louis Vuitton
MARC JACOBS
1. Stella McCartney
7. Rina Limor
6. Stella McCartney
1. Cotton and silk dress, STELLA M C CARTNEY, $4,995, at Stella McCartney, NYC | 2. Floral-detail chain-link necklace, LOUIS VUITTON, $1,265, call 866-VUITTON | 3. Appliqu shorts, DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, $625, call 646-486-4800 | 4. Leather sandals with floral detail, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN, $650, call 212-650-0455 | 5. Flap clutch, ISAAC MIZRAHI NEW YORK , $995, call 212-288-8111 | 6. Cotton and silk top, STELLA M C CARTNEY, $1,895, call 310-273-7051 | 7. Metal cuff with rhodolite and semiprecious stones, RINA LIMOR, $2,800, visit rinalimor.com
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Deneuve: Rue des Archives/AGIP; Rina Limor cuff, Isaac Mizrahi clutch, and runway images: courtesy of the designers; remaining still lifes: Devon Jarvis (styling by Bill Laughlin for Mark Edward Inc.); for details, see Shopping Guide
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AIRPORT, 1970
Flight of F ancy
1. Marc Jacobs
MARC JACOBS
2. Louis Vuitton
8. Marc Jacobs
6. Marc Jacobs
5. Chanel
1. Raffia bag with leather weaving, MARC JACOBS, $1,350, call 212-343-1490 | 2. Silk blouse, LOUIS VUITTON, $2,005, visit louisvuitton.com | 3. Magnetic button vest, BALENCIAGA BY NICOLAS GHESQUIRE, $2,075, call 212-279-4440 | 4. Stamp-print bankers envelope, JACK SPADE, $250, call 212-625-1820 | 5. Wool tweed skirt, CHANEL, $2,245, call 800-550-0005 | 6. Ball-trim flats, MARC JACOBS, $645, at Marc Jacobs, NYC | 7. Silk skirt, LOUIS VUITTON, $1,215, call 866-VUITTON | 8. Cotton scarf, MARC JACOBS, $250, call 212-343-1490
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Airport : courtesy of the Everett Collection; Marc Jacobs bag and runway images: courtesy of the designers; remaining still lifes: Devon Jarvis (Louis Vuitton blouse and skirt styled by Eddy Alcantara for Mark Edward Inc.; remaining items styled by Bill Laughlin for Mark Edward Inc.); for details, see Shopping Guide
PACK FOR SAINT-TROPEZ ROMANCE WITH NAUTICAL STRIPES AND KNOTTED TRIMMINGS
2. Milly
3. Meredith Wendell
MIU MIU
1. Gilan
4. Miu Miu
6. Eberjey
8. Miu Miu
7. Dior
5. Brian Atwood
1. 29.89-carat chalcedony ring set in white gold with diamonds, GILAN, price upon request, visit gilan.com | 2. Silk camisole, MILLY, $250, available in December, visit millyny.com | 3. Silk rope knot earrings, MEREDITH WENDELL, $745, visit meredithwendell.com | 4. Striped skirt, $895, red patent leather belt, $275, both, MIU MIU, visit miumiu.com | 5. Canvas and cork wedge, BRIAN ATWOOD, $665, to special order, e-mail info@brianatwooddesigns.com | 6. Nylon and spandex bikini, EBERJEY, $137, visit eberjey.com | 7. Lambskin cap, DIOR, $750, call 800-929-DIOR | 8. Striped canvas shoes, MIU MIU, $395, visit miumiu .com | 9. Embroidered canvas clutch, OSCAR DE LA RENTA , $950, at Oscar de la Renta boutiques nationwide | 10. Cotton-blend pants, RENA LANGE, $595, visit renalange.com
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Jules et Jim : Raymond Cauchetier/Rue des Archives; runway images, Gilan ring, Meredith Wendell earrings, Oscar de la Renta clutch, and Brian Atwood wedge: courtesy of the designers; remaining images: Devon Jarvis (Miu Miu skirt styled by Eddy Alcantara for Mark Edward Inc.; remaining items styled by Bill Laughlin for Mark Edward Inc.); for details, see Shopping Guide
By the Sea
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Cannes Do
TAKE A STROLL ALONG THE FRENCH RIVIERAAT LEAST IN SPIRITWITH THESE BREEZY ESPADRILLES
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price upon request, call 877-733-3525
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I NSPIRED
BY
At Ease
Printed linen tote with lambskin lining, CHLO, $990, call 212-717-8220
TAKE A BREAK FROM STRUCTURED LEATHER BAGS WITH A LIGHT AND EASY TOTE
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Photographed by Svend Lindbaek (styling by Dylan Egon Samuels); for details, see Shopping Guide
Retro Active
OLIVER PEOPLES, $310, at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC
SIP COCKTAILS IN THE SHADE WITH TWO-TONE SUNGLASSES REMINISCENT OF THE GOOD OLD DAYS
DSQUARED2, $355,
call 212-244-5070
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Photographed by Svend Lindbaek (styling by Dylan Egon Samuels); for details, see Shopping Guide
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Photographed by Svend Lindbaek (styling by Laurie Raab for Halley Resources); for details, see Shopping Guide
Dillards
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Photographed by Svend Lindbaek (styling by Dylan Egon Samuels); for details, see Shopping Guide
Get the smooth look and natural feel of the RealSexy Gel Lift bra.
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White gold brooch set with a 2-carat round-cut center diamond and 980 brilliantcut diamonds, CHANEL FINE JEWELRY, price upon request, call 800-550-0005
A close-up of Coromandel screen with carved and painted birds from Chanels apartment
CHANEL MINES ITS PAST WITH A JEWELRY COLLECTION THAT BRIGHTENS THE FUTURE
Under the spectacular glass roof of the Grand Palais in Paris, French socialites and the worlds most renowned curators and private collectors gathered at the Biennale des Antiquaires to celebrate the fairs twenty-fifth anniversary and behold a collection of exquisite antiques, fine art, and jewelry from around the globe, dating back to eras such as the European Renaissance and midcentury modern. One of only four fashion houses invited to participate, Chanel returned to the site of its extravagant runway shows to present an original diamond jewelry collection designed expressly for the milestone event. The 34 unique pieces, ranging from watches to necklaces (some comprising nearly a thousand diamonds!), were inspired by a plume brooch from Coco Chanels premiere fine jewelry exhibition from 1932 titled Bijoux de Diamants. Mademoiselle Chanels original collection was the toast of Paris when it debutedand 78 years later, it seems nothings changed. Erin Boyle
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Radiant Return
White gold watch set with 182 round-cut diamonds, CHANEL FINE JEWELRY, price upon request, call 800-550-0005
White gold brooch set with 186 brilliant-cut diamonds, CHANEL FINE JEWELRY, price upon request, call 800-550-0005
Camellia necklace set with a pink sapphire Birdcage objet from Chanels apartment
All images courtesy of Chanel; for details, see Shopping Guide
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This month, meet Jennifer, an interior decorator and designer, who shares her platinum story with us.
PRECISION SET
To discover platinum settings from $1000 and find your nearest platinum retailer visit www.preciousplatinum.com.
CASTMEMBER
When it comes to her minimalist sense of style, this Hollywood dealmaker means business
Not everyone in Hollywood is a peacock. As a manager of global promotions at Walt Disney Studios Motion Pictures, Kristie Cheung spends her days behind the scenes on a team that negotiates promotional campaigns for films such as Pirates of the Caribbean, Toy Story, and the upcoming animated Rapunzel adventure, Tangled. Any time you see a cell phone being used in a movie, or Buzz and Woody on a cereal box, thats us, says the 30-year-old University of California, Santa Barbara communications grad. Because she swings between meetings with creative-minded filmmakers and others with corporate execs, Cheung favors a clean, polished look with feminine, Im-so-not-a-suit flourishes, such as cropped trousers with an embellished T-shirt or a short black dress, belted at the waist, with magenta heels. Jennifer Aniston is my idol, says Cheung, who lives in Brentwood and drives a white Lexusrelevant details in L.A., where domain and car tell you as much about a woman as the bag she carries. (Cheung, FYI, favors Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton.) Whitney Vargas
MONDA Y9a.m.
Being the practical girl that I am, I like structured bags that go with everything. This one doesnt have any flashy details, so its perfect for a morning meeting.
Above: Leather bag, DOONEY & BOURKE, $350, at Dooney & Bourke boutiques nationwide. Top: Cotton pleat trench coat, THAKOON, $1,990, at Saks Fifth Avenue, NYC. Puff-sleeve top, BIRD BY JUICY COUTURE, $228, at Juicy Couture, NYC. Pants, THEORY, $245, at Theory stores nationwide. Leather bag, DOONEY & BOURKE, $425, visit dooney.com. Calfskin sandals, RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION, $675, visit ralphlauren.com.
Im only 56 , so I love sky-high heels. I wear flats when I have a work event and know that its going to be a long day. Otherwise, Im teetering around in shoes that are so tall I can barely walk. Above: Silk twill top, ANN TAYLOR, $88, visit NINE WEST, $89, call 800-999-1877.
anntaylor.com. Below: Brown sandal,
Everybody dresses business casual on the Disney lot. Its like a college campus atmosphere. I wear a ton of dresses because theyre so comfortable and easy but also make me look pulled together and professional. Silk cloque dress, DKNY, $245, call 800-231-0884. Bronze and silver belt (as necklace), LANVIN, $690, at Tender, Birmingham, MI. Suede sandals, DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, $280, at Diane von Furstenberg, NYC. Calf-hair bag, MULBERRY, $1,595, at Mulberry, NYC. Leather bag, DOONEY & BOURKE, $425, visit dooney.com.
TUESDA Y1p.m.
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LOVEANDGLAMOUR.COM
WEDNESDA Y3p.m.
Nordstrom stores nationwide.
Executive Decision
If I have a meeting with studio executives or one of our promotional partners, Im in a polished shirt and tailored pants. When Im dressed for business, Im ready to do business. Left: Leather sandal, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI FOR VIONNET,$770, REED KRAKOFF, $590, call 877-733-3525.
visit vionnet.com. Below: Leather clutch,
Id wear this dress on a day when Im in the officenot having meetingsand then going to a friends party in West Hollywood. Viscose dress, 1971 REISS, $185, visit reissonline.com. Python-print canvas bag, LANVIN, $1,490, at Lanvin, NYC. Oxford shoes, SAM EDELMAN, $140, at select
Youll almost never see me in jeans. And no matter how big the trend, I refuse to buy a pair of skinny jeans. Silk top, EQUIPMENT, $188, collection at Ron Herman, L.A. Wool trousers, REBECCA TAYLOR, $295, at select Neiman Marcus stores nationwide. Lambskin bag, CHANEL, $3,400,
at select Chanel boutiques nationwide. Patent leather sandals, ALEXANDER WANG, $550, visit shop.alexanderwang.com.
I like to accessorize with one big statement piece rather than a lot of little jewelry. Sterling silver cuff with diamond detail, ZASHA BY JUDEFRANCES, $715,
collection at Bags Belts & Baubles at Wynn Las Vegas. Yellow gold and diamond cuff, H.STERN OSCAR NIEMEYER, price upon request, call 800-H-STERN.
This dress is so gorgeous! Its girly and sharp at the same time. Faille dress, NANETTE LEPORE, $368, at Nanette Lepore, NYC. Calf-leather clutch, BOTTEGA VENETA, $1,980, call 877-362-1715. Leather
sandals with Swarovski crystal detail, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN, $1,295, visit giuseppezanottidesign.com.
FRIDA Y5p.m.
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Reed Krakoff clutch and Reiss top: Devon Jarvis (styling by Bill Laughlin); remaining still lifes: courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide
THURSDA Y6p.m.
2010
sperrytopsider.com
Vera: The Art and Life of an Icon : Steven Meckler/courtesy of Abrams Books; Yoshitomo Nara, White Riot , 1995: Aomori Museum of Art/courtesy of the artist; hat by Laela Barnard and photograph by Michael ONeal; remaining images: courtesy of the designers and locations
WATER BABY As the owner of the Surf Bazaar boutique at the Surf Lodge in Montauk, Bethany Mayer curates a must-have collection of breezy sundresses and cover-ups. Now shes launching her own line under the stores name. thesurfbazaar.com
MONTAUK
ALABAMA
GOOD EVENING The Bay Area has a new designer to watch. Louisa Parris, who graduated from Londons Central Saint Martins with its prestigious Womenswear Collection Award, constructs witty cocktail dresses, heavy on the graphic prints and voluminous draping. louisaparris.com
SAN FRANCISCO
NEW YORK
GEAR UP Stetson has enlisted milliner Albertus Swanepoel to design a limited-edition collection of outdoorsy hats, including this ruggedly handsome cowboy. hartfordyork.com
HAPPY THOUGHTS Vera: The Art and Life of an Icon (Abrams) shows the late pop illustrator and designer Vera Neumann at her best and brightest: floral prints, colorful geometrics, ladybug illustrations, and all! amazon.com
ATLANTA
FUR-EVER MORE Alabama-based Billy Reid is incorporating fur in his fall collection. The designer, whos building a strong reputation for layered Huckleberry Finn fashion, has created trapper hats and mittens from nutria. The short-hair water animal is found in the South and legally hunted year-round for population control. billyreid.com
CHICAGO
CELEBRITY SECRET Stars from Anne Hathaway to Eva Longoria Parker have been wearing Dana Rebeccas romantic fine jewelry on the red carpet since it debuted in 2007. This season, her collection of one-of-a-kind pieces, including these onyx-and-quartz drop earrings, is doubling in size. danarebeccadesigns.com
BROOKLYN
KICKIN IT Theres a new shop for sneaker heads who lean toward high fashion. Pedigree Sneaker Gallery, located in Brooklyns trendy Fort Greene neighborhood, carries brands such as Y-3, AMQ, and Adidas Originals. Make a run for it. 45 Willoughby Ave., 718-858-8755
N EW S
NEW YORK
NAKED AMBITION If you havent stumbled upon Bond Streets latest ber-stylish boutique yet, nows the time. Rem Koolhaas nephew, named Rem D Koolhaas, has opened United Nude, a space orb of a shop featuring his own architectural footwear. Uncle Rem didnt design the space, but talent clearly runs deep in this family. 25 Bond St., 212-420-6000 GET IN LINE Uh-oh! Fashion editors and other style obsessives are getting yet another Cline item to drool over. Designer Phoebe Philo has created a limited-edition collection of wayfarer-style sunglasses in natural horn and black. With only 300 pairs going on sale this month, itll be interesting to see who has the fastest dialing fingers. celine.com
PARIS
WILD CHILD Over the past 20 years, Yoshitomo Nara has been winning the art and fashion worlds over with his diabolically youthful characters. Now everyone has a chance to collect his work, thanks to Yoshitomo Nara: Nobodys Fool (Abrams), which features more than 300 of his devilish illustrations. amazon.com
TOKYO
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Londons Alessandra Rich takes a monastic approach to the latest floor-skimming length
WHO: Alessandra Rich, 43 WHAT: Austere oor-length
PURITY TEST
formal fashion background, but I know what I like. I based the line on what Id want to wear: easy, unstructured pieces, she says. She ies to Italy every 10 days to meet with her design
shirtdresses and tunics (approximately $1,500 to $3,700) in silk, metallic jersey, and Chantilly lace WHERE: London WHY TO BUY: Long is the new length, preferably worn with atsday and night. Even though the dresses are long, theyre not structured, so theyre not pompous or too fancy, Rich says. I would like a woman to wear them nonchalantly. WHERE TO BUY: Harrods in London; DNA in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia PEDIGREE: Before starting her own line last year, Rich furnished and decorated high-end residences in London, the south of France, and her native Italy. I have no
assistant and patternmaker, and to visit the factory. INSPIRATION: Grace Kelly. She had that allure of always looking perfect in the momentso glamorous, immaculate, and pristine. COLOR SCHEME: Black and white. The right white can be so gentle on your skin. On one belted sleeveless dress, stark white is overlaid with softer white panels. SPECIAL ITEM: A double-layered Chantilly lace and jacquard abaya with boxers hood and neoprene shoulder cover. Whitney Vargas
Rich
Wes Gordon debuts his considerably debonair designs to a new generation of uptown girls
Twenty-four-year-old Georgia gentleman Wes Gordon is mature beyond his years. While most of his Central Saint Martins friends are still passing pins, this designer is on the couture fast track. For his refined fall debut, shown in the Grand Suite at Manhattans St. Regis hotel, he treated editors to his ideashaped in part by internships at Tom Ford and Oscar de la Rentaof feminine luxury: silk bow blouses, handhemmed coats in cashmere woven with mink and fox-fur cuffs, and cropped tuxedo pants with python piping. I want to design pieces that women can come
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back to year after year, which is why its important to me to use the best fabrics and quality tailoring, says Gordon, who as a young boy scoured bookstores for fashion monographs of Valentino and Ert, then dutifully traced their sketches. I would follow the lines and study how one seam fell into another. Those books were my bible, he says. Gordons buttons are custom-made by a New York jeweler, and, rather than machine fuse his jackets, the designer reinforces them with canvas and horsehair, like old British mens jackets, he says. He also lines sleeves with lambskin that is vis-
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ible only when cuffs are turned uplike a nicely kept secret. Gordon claims the collection, which hangs alongside those of Lanvin and Valentino at Saks Fifth Avenue and Harrods, was inspired by Lauren Bacalls 1940s noir films. But its clear hes also studied women closer at hand: his girlfriends in high placesthe types of swans who frequent Annabels in London and Bemelmans in New Yorkand de la Renta, who, much to Gordons surprise, appeared in the wings that snowy day at the St. Regis.W.V.
From top left: Linda McCartney, 1974; Paul and Linda, 1972; the designer snapped by her sister Mary
This month, environmentalist and supermom Stella McCartney welcomes a very special delivery
BABYGENIUS
Linda McCartney: Armando Gallo/Retna Ltd.; Paul and Linda: The Evening Standard/Getty Images; Stella McCartney: photographed by Mary McCartney; remaining images: courtesy of Stella McCartney
nes sense of style is developed at a very young agepeople tend to forget that. I designed my first piece when I was 12, says Stella McCartney from her home in London. It was a little bomber jacket! With similarly fashion-focused tykes in mind, the designer debuts her first collection of childrens clothes and, serendipitously, the fourth member of the McCartney brood, this month. The line is sure to please fans she gained from her wildly popular capsule collections for GapKids last winter along with her glamorous posse of eco-minded moms, including Gwyneth Paltrow, Kate Moss, Liv Tyler, and Naomi Watts. The collection ranges from infancy to age 12, starting with unisex organic cotton onesies and separates in berry hues. Im in the old-fashioned camp that doesnt like to find out the babys sex beforehand, so I made the colors neutral, McCartney says. Although she admits that if her sons, Beckett, two, and Miller, five, were providing creative direction, shed be designing superhero costumes, theres a host of mini must-haves for boys and girls, such as
chunky knit hoodies and bright yellow wellingtonsall vegan and cruelty-free, of course. One lovely piece is conjured from childhood memories: Theres a sentimental factor there, she says. The printed shift with the butterfly collar was inspired by some of my mothers dresses. Even the most basic of the 48 styles, whether dove-gray corduroys or silky red bloomer shorts, have an innate cool factora characteristic McCartney deems paramount in childrens design. Yes, its projecting the look parents want for their child, but little ones are very aware of what theyre wearingand what youre wearing, for that matter. My kids compliment my clothes the most out of anyone! McCartney took this point to heart, literally shrinking looks from past runway collections, including hits such as her Fair Isle sweaterdresses from fall 07, which will no doubt prompt full-grown size zeros to squeeze in. Even more alluring, the new website McCartney plans to launch for the collection aims to entertain and engage tots with colorful graphics while moms and dads click and buy. Its the modern way to shop, she says. Its hard enough being a parent, and getting clothes isnt always easy, so if youre online and theyre entertained too, it helps everyone, she says. Wed start drafting a thank-you note now.Alexa Brazilian
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M.C . L BY M at t h e w C a M p B e L L L au r e n z a
cirque dorient collection signature sterling silver column Bangles paved with viBrant fine sapphires and semi-precious gems
MR. PERSONALITY
Silver at Decades in L.A.
jeans-and-T-shirt kind of girl, but Camerons designs are more diverse than that. Channeling a French hobo, kerlund mixes the Farrah style (a deep-indigo bellbottom) with a straw boater hat she picked up at a Provence flea market with her mother, a cherry red Chanel jacket, and Terry De Havilland wedges. Playing the punk, she matches the Marlene with a custom leather jacket and a studded pirate hat from her favorite new designer, NYC-based Agatha Blois. But if youre not ready to do a Jack Sparrow just yet, Silvers sophisticated, hardware-free silhouettes are, at the very least, meant to elevate a humble basic. Denim is the foundation of a womans wardrobe. I was excited to clean up the design, he says. In their purest form, jeans are supposed to enhance an outfit, not distract from it.Alexa Brazilian
Its been a rough 10 years for jeans. First the rise went low (exposing undergarments and pelvic bones on all the wrong people), then the legs got skinnier and skinnier, and finally, last season, the jegging (a denimlegging hybrid) was born, a style that has plagued the cast members of Jersey Shore all year. Enter Cameron Silver, owner of Los Angeles vintage mecca Decades, and his elegantly retro denim collection, which will also include safari jackets, swing dresses, and high-waisted shorts inspired by the vintage Azzedine Alaas and YSLs that have passed through the racks of his Melrose Avenue boutique. Its meant to bring out your inner icon, says Silver, who
Looks from Silvers new line for Decades
painstakingly designed each of the 11 styles with a famous muse in mind. Theres a tuxedo cut inspired by Marlene Dietrich; lace-up safari pants named after the 60s model Veruschka; an all-American straight leg dubbed the Cheryl (Tiegs); and the Marilyn, a perfectly cropped pair of white jeans with seams that slim and lengthen the legs. I love the Marilyn, Silver says. They will make you feel like youre on a tropical vacation! In a town where the ghosts of studio inventions such as Monroe and Veronica Lake still loom large, and personal style is in a constant state of extremesfrom redcarpet dresses to Starbucks-and-sweats Silver hopes for something in between. Most of my trousers could be worn to a black-tie gala with a fantastic blouse and a marabou feather jacket, he says. Taking this vision to extremes, Silver asked stylist B. kerlund to wear pieces from the collection in her decidedly original way. I have known B. for 14 years, Silver says. And I adore her eccentricity. The 35-year-old is widely credited with creating Lady Gagas early look, including the bondaged, paraplegic pop star she played for her controversial music video Paparazzi, shot by the stylists husband, Jonas kerlund, in 2009. She also fashioned Fergies futuristic fembot ensembles for The E.N.D. Tour with the Black Eyed Peas. I like playing characters when I dress, kerlund says. Im not a
From top left to right: kerlund and her twins in Decades denim at her home in L.A.; kerlund in an Agatha Blois pirate hat and Silvers Marlene cut; the stylist with her favorite vintage umbrella by her pool; modeling her best sunnies; stills from her dressing room; kerlunds loyal clients Lady Gaga, Fergie on tour with the Black Eyed Peas, and Blondie
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HEAD TRIP
Little Does nature-inspired headdresses are a glorious bounty of flora and fauna
ccessories designer Chase Cohl knew she was on to something after one fateful lunch back in 2008. There she was, eating at L.A.s Chateau Marmont with her good friend model Erin Wasson, who had just asked to borrow one of her handmade feather headpieces for an event that night when, minutes later, in the bathroom, Fergie stopped Cohl and asked to buy the piece right off her head. As the daughter of the Rolling Stones longtime tour manager, Cohl spent the first 15 years of her life on the road with the band, so she knows how to roll with the punches. I guess Im going into the jewelry business, the 22-year-old remembers thinking. Today, the bicoastal designersinger-songwriter produces a full collection, called Little Doe, fit for the modern-day fairy princess. Among the pieces are headdresses made from silk flowers and antique velvet, tigerwood-antler crowns, and honey calcite earrings (meant to be worn singly) that drop to the shoulder. I found these amethyst crystals that have tiny bubbles, and you can actually see the trapped water moving in the
A Little Doe ower and antique velvet headpiece and a wide-brim hat
WALK THIS WA Y
We made shoes that all four of us were obsessed with, say Anndra Neen designers Phoebe and Annette Stephens of their first collaboration ever. Having abandoned their handmade medieval-inspired chokers and warrior cuffs, the Stephens sisters now decorate TenOverSix owners Kristen Lee and Brady Cunninghams in-house line of kicks. Its a new spin on the shoe clip, say the sisters. We imagined the pieces growing out of the shoe like vines on a wall.A.B.
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Little Doe models and still life: Rylan Perry (styling by Chase Cohl; hair and makeup by Pia Arrobio); TenOverSix designers: Santiago Ruiseor; still life: Len Lagrua
light, says Cohl. Most people dont want the flaws, but I look for them. I like imperfect things that look like they were plucked from nature. Next up, the Toronto-born Swissboarding-school grad, who majored in Native American poetry at New York Citys the New School, is planning to sell the vintage cache of Sisters of the Black Moonthree Texas girls who share Cohls sharp eyeon the Little Doe website. Shes also got a jewelry collection in the works with New York chum and Bing Bang designer Anna Sheffield. All that will have to wait, however, until she returns from a camping trip in the San Bernardino forest, which will double as a shoot for her spring lookbook. Were going to be staying along a river, sort of like a culty, hippie family, says Cohl as shes cruising up Route 38 in her white Toyota Prius. Like a 60s commune, but without all the Manson weirdness.Whitney Vargas
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espite its bright location on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles, Creatures of Comfort has always seemed like a Manhattan boutique wedged among pretty palm trees. Selling under-the-radar designers such as Peter Jensen, Maria Cornejo, Hansel From Basel, and Tom Scott, owner Jade Lai is known around town for her exquisitely sophisticated taste and her aversion to traditional California style (read: surf T-shirts, flip-flops). It seems only right that with the debut of her first-ever collection under the shops name, Lai expands to NYC with a new store in an old police precinct on Mulberry Street. Having my own line has always been in the grand scheme of things, Lai says, and Ive wanted to move to New York for most of my life.
For the boutiques opening in September, Lai stocked the racks with her first effort: an Amish-inspired collection of full-length skirts in polka-dot organic wool, Japanese cotton dresses in blue and white stripes, and jersey jumpsuits. Theres a homemade element to the line. Its innocent and modest, says Lai, who bounced between L.A. and Hong Kong doing set design, interior decorating, and product development for companies such as Esprit before opening Creatures of Comfort in 2005. The spring collection is a little bit more romantic. Theres a wide range of colors in lightweight silks and linens that can be mixed and matched however you want. The line builds on falls demure silhouettes cropped trousers, prairie skirts, and ladylike blousesbut in an Eric Fischlesque palette of mint, kelly green, and cantaloupe that Lai envisioned a beautiful, eccentric explorers wife from the early 1900s wearing in the desert, with the wind blowing through her clothes and hair. Besides her own duds, Lais NYC outpost boasts a gallery space, home decor items, local RTW stars like Rachel Comey and VPL, and exclusive collaborations with designers such as L. D. Tuttle, United Bamboo, and Manu. Im not trying to reinvent the wheel, says Lai. I simply want to provide items women can feel beautiful and comfortable in for years to come.Alexa Brazilian
Far left and far right: Looks from Creatures of Comforts spring collection. Below: The designer
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Lai: Rose Thomas; Creatures of Comfort lookbook images: Isabel Asha Penzlien; Esquivel: Olivier Staphylas; Mone: Andrew Zaeh/courtesy of George Esquivel; still life: Louisa Parkinson
OXFORD PRESS
When it comes to shoes, Los Angelenos are brand loyal. Christian Louboutin peep-toe platform slingbacks? Uggs? The West Coast owns that turf. Now Hollywood hep girls are tilling new ground: George Esquivels hand-cobbled lace-up oxford. A wide range of individualistic A-listers, from Gwen Stefani to Ellen DeGeneres, already wear his custom footwear (only 2,600 pairs are produced a year). But as fashion continues its love affair with late-80s androgyny (picture tomboyish Josie Borain modeling Calvin Klein briefs) and L.A. style evolves from casual loungewear toward a more urbanedare we say New Yorklook, Esquivels self-described working shoes are gaining serious traction. Theyre meant to be lived in, says the Orange Countybased designer, who started his line in 2000 and spent two years perfecting his womens oxford, which is narrower, lighter, and more flexible than his mens version. A woman shouldnt have to wear a superhigh
heel to feel sexy. Confidence is sexy. Take Esquivels latest muse, Janelle Mone. The rising funk/pop/cabaret singer, whos as well known for her retro Roy Orbison look as for her high-octane voice, is almost exclusively shod in Esquivel. The two met at a photo shoot last year and began to collaborate soon after on black-and-white saddle shoes and harlequin-stitched oxfords. I love that George caters to the artists special needs, Mone says. He knows that I do a lot of dancing, so he makes my custom oxford with handmade cushioned insoles to support my feet. For his Frank Gehryinspired spring collection, Esquivel constructed perforated lace-ups with metallic cutouts, military zipper boots, and a modernist take on Mexican huaraches. Be smart and place your orders now. WHITNEY VARGAS
SKIRT CHASERS
Obando; de Ruiter in J. C. Obandos dusty rose floor-length skirt and her own gray sweatshirt and K. Jacques sandals
bout six months ago, stylist Jessica de Ruiter stumbled on a long, white linen Ralph Lauren skirt that her mother used to wear in the 80s and, pairing it with black blazers and denim shirts, realized shed found her new look. Id been wearing skinny, high-waisted pants and pencil skirts, and it felt really fresh and modern to wear something so free and easy, says the L.A.-based bellwether, whos dressed everyone from Diane Kruger to Charlotte Gainsbourg. Luckily for those without Ralph Laurenwearing mothers, a number of designers are offering their take on the new ankle length. Phillip Lim did Bianca Jagger louche; Calvin Klein offered velvet tank shifts. But de Ruiter, when in need of a change from her old white skirt, will be wearing her hometown hero and personal friend Juan Carlos Obandos ruffled Victoriana version, which comes hand-dyed in dusty rose and faded gray for an antique, found-in-the-attic look just right for his West Coast clientele. Dramatic skirts are so perfect for Hollywood
Two L.A. tastemakers try the seasons hot new shape courtesy of Juan Carlos Obando
Clockwise from top left: De Ruiter and Danan trying on the designers skirts; de Ruiter wearing the Obando skirt with her own Isabel Marant trench; Danan in the designers skirt and a Dries Van Noten leopard-print fur coat; Danan in the Obando skirt and her own black leather jacket
DREAM GIRLS
This month, two luscious coffee-table booksone focusing on the unbridled glamour of the 1940s, the other on the sunny bohemia of the 1960shave us dreaming of the golden ages of California fashion. Writer and interiors guru Wendy Goodmans new opus, The World of Gloria
From left: Gloria Vanderbilt with Salvador Dali at his surrealist ball in Monterey in 1941; Vanderbilt circa 1940; the icons new tome
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Vanderbilt (Abrams), follows the life and times of the trendsetting icon.It started with an early photograph I found of Gloria Vanderbilt, taken by Richard Avedon, Goodman says. It was so intriguing and mysterious. I wondered if there were more images like thisI discovered there were many. Filled with rare snaps and a forward by Vanderbilts son, Anderson Cooper, the book is the first to span the grande dames entire lifetime, including her wild summer in Tinseltown as a 17-year-old mega-heiress. When Gloria arrived in Hollywood in the summer of 1941, it was the last hurrah right before Pearl Harbor, Goodman says. All hell broke loose because she was so beautiful. Visiting her mother and aunt in Beverly Hills, she was at the center of Hollywoods fantastic social swirl, trading in debutante dances at Manhattans Waldorf Astoria for the most glamorous nightclubs in Los Angeles, such as Ciros and Mocambo, and attending Salvador Dals surrealist ball at the Hotel Del Monte on the arm of the artist himself. (No wonder she later served as inspiration for Holly Golightly in Truman Capotes Breakfast at Tiffanys!) It was the perfect storm, Goodman says. She was new on the scene,
and she was a young heiress. Streaking her chestnut hair gray to appear older, wearing bracelets made of clamshells from Santa Monica and white cat-eye sunglasses to evening parties, Vanderbilt had a showstopping style that perfectly captured a moment of hedonistic Hollywood allure. If Venice Beachs breezy bohemia is more your speed, a new tome celebrating the master of the batik baby-doll dress will provide days of outfit ideas. Anna Sui (Chronicle) offers a visual retrospective of the designers greatest hits, adored by mellow L.A. beauties such as Sofia Coppola. Sui is celebrating the volumes debut with a capsule collection for Anthropologie, featuring reworkings of three iconic dresses practically made for strolling Abbot Kinney.A.B.
From left: Models wearing looks from Suis capsule collection for Anthropologie; the designers book
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Obando, de Ruiter, and Danan portraits: photographed by Nick Walker (hair and makeup by Erin Smith for Redken and Jane Iredale at Celestine); Sui models: photographed by Andreas Joseph; shot on location at the Standard Hotel, New York; Gloria Vanderbilt with Salvador Dali: Julian P. Graham/Loon Hill Studios; Vanderbilt portrait and book cover: courtesy of Gloria Vanderbilt/Abrams Books
because they make women feel like theyre playing a character but also allow them to show off their own personality, Obando says. Case in point: De Ruiter and film producer Stephanie Danan, another stylesetting Californian, both snapped them up, but while de Ruiter opts to dress hers down with a gray sweatshirt and K. Jacques sandals or a beige Isabel Marant trench, wide braided belt, and brown loafers, Danan turns up the glam with a Dries Van Noten leopard-print fur coat and over-theknee Lanvin boots. I love the romance, she said. Heres to long, happy love stories!Whitney Vargas
Bilson and the designer at the Chateau Marmont; fellow fan Bosworth; the new L.A. boutique
LOUNGE ACT
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Film stills: Vanessa Bruno/Stephanie Di Giusto; Bilson, Bruno, and Bosworth: Stefanie Keenan/WireImage.com; Driftwood: courtesy of David Browne; Ida Falck: courtesy of the designer
Bruno has movement on her mind. For spring, shes taking on Ivy League Americana, with long cardigans over floorgrazing dresses. And in a recent short film for her previous fall collection, her friend Lou Doillon stars as a sort of wood nymph, floating through the Normandy countryside in Brunos dance-inspired knit leotards and chiffon wrap skirts. Brunos also literally going places. This August, the platinum blond former model opened her first United States boutique on Los Angeles tony Melrose Avenue. L.A. women are chic in a way that is not completely dissimilar to those in Paris, Bruno says. The main objective is movement: Just as I ride my bike to work in Paris, women are in and out of their cars in L.A., cruising under the fantastic palm trees. In keeping with this easy, romantic ethos, the store, which Bruno describes as a modern boudoir, features expansive windows, artfully distressed concrete floors, and sparse vintage furniture, including a pair of wingback chairs the designer found in a shop on Venices Abbot Kinney. While her particular styleeffortlessly
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EVENING F ALLS
Mark Platt (styling by Anita Salerno for RJ Bennett Represents); for details, see Shopping Guide
Everyone knows November (not December) actually kicks off the holiday seasonwhether youre flying the coop to ski or sun or staying in town and going out. Any way you slice it, backto-back nights of revelry are upon us. So heres news worth listening to: Dressing for evening is a whole new ball game this season. Luckily, were here (as always) with a nine-page guide to living it up, no matter your destination: stepping out in fur (fauxs the new fox) and prairie skirts in Crested Butte; dancing barefoot in aquatic-inspired jewels and pure white in the tropics; and conga-ing the concrete in tuxedo separates and lam shirtdresses in the city. There are also exciting new takes on soiree classics, from the hot new minipurse (extralong strap included) to futuristic new baubles and head-to-toe sequins (you must try it). Just remember, its not a party until youre having funwhile looking smashing, of course!
From top: Shell and motherof-pearl box clutch, LANVIN, $2,140, at Lanvin, Bal Harbour, FL. Mother-ofpearl and resin minaudire, LOUIS VUITTON, $3,400, at select Louis Vuitton locations nationwide. Mother-of-pearl clutch, JUDITH LEIBER, $1,595, visit judithleiber.com
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CL ASSIC : TH E TUXEDO
URBAN EVENING
modal-blend blazer, ALLEN B. FOR JCPENNEY, $51, at JCPenney stores nationwide. Patent leather belt, YVES SAINT LAURENT, $440, call 212-980-2970 Wool-blend jacket, Rhinestone-embellished
N EW: TH E SH IRTD RE SS
Cupro dress, CLUB MONACO, $395, visit clubmonaco.com
silk dress, 3.1 PHILLIP LIM, $970, Velvet bow belt, NEW YORK NAT, $98, visit newyorknat.com call 212-334-1160.
collection at bloomingdales.com
Wool-blend blazer,
Hand-beaded wool-blend cropped trousers, 3.1 PHILLIP LIM, $475, at 3.1 Phillip Lim, NYC
W ear It With...
bag, BALENCIAGA BY NICOLAS GHESQUIRE, Hand-carved laminated Bakelite ring with diamond, MARK DAVIS, $1,700, at Barneys New York $1,295, at Balenciaga Boutique, NYC Leather-and-suede
Sequin-embellished polyester shirt with charmeuse belt, ANNE KLEIN NEW YORK, $395, collection at bloomingdales.com
Brass-and-enamel bangle,
Glass-embellished canvas sandal, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN, $950, visit giuseppezanottidesign.com Gold-plated ring with Lucite, CC SKYE, $125, visit ccskye.com
Satin sandals with rhinestone buckles, ROGER VIVIER, $745, at Roger Vivier, NYC
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EDITORS NOTE: Give menswear a feminine mystique with glints of crystal and gold.
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Yves Saint Laurent runway: courtesy of the designer; Esprit blazer: Len Lagrua; Fallon choker: courtesy of the designer; remaining still lifes: Mark Platt (3.1 Phillip Lim trousers styled by Judith Trezza for RJ Bennett Represents; remaining items styled by Anita Salerno for RJ Bennett Represents); for details, see Shopping Guide
Sequin-embellished
URBAN ESSENTIAL
CITY SHORTS
Jacquard shorts with bow belt, THREAD SOCIAL, $430, visit threadsocial.com
Bead-embellished silk shorts, DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, $285, at Diane von Furstenberg, NYC
Lambskin shorts, 3.1 PHILLIP LIM, $675, at 3.1 Phillip Lim, NYC
Mlange crepe shorts with embellished pockets, MARK+JAMES BY BADGLEY MISCHKA, $265, call 561-655-0721
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All still lifes: Mark Platt (Stella McCartney blazer and shorts, Club Monaco shorts, and Chanel shorts styled by Anita Salerno for RJ Bennett Represents; Diane von Furstenberg and See By Chlo shorts styled by Judith Trezza for RJ Bennett Represents; 3.1 Phillip Lim and Mark+James by Badgley Mischka shorts styled by Phyllis Baker for Mark Edward Inc.; remaining items styled by Eddy Alcantara for Mark Edward Inc.); for details, see Shopping Guide
MARC JACOBS
W ear It With...
Glass-bead-embellished silk clutches, ANTHROPOLOGIE, $168$188, visit anthropologie.com
Silver necklace with turquoise detail, EMILIO PUCCI, price upon request, visit emiliopucci.com
Suede sandal with zirconium detail, JIMMY CHOO, $2,295, at Jimmy Choo boutiques nationwide
Lace-up crinkled patent leather boot, ALEXANDER WANG, $625, visit alexanderwang.com
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EDITORS NOTE: Sand tones, ikats, and edgy Western jewelry take the look higher.
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Runway: Imaxtree.com; Emilio Pucci necklace, Solange Azagury-Partridge ring, Nina Ricci belt, and MaxMara mittens: courtesy of the designers; Jimmy Choo sandal: Len Lagrua; remaining still lifes: Mark Platt (Marc Jacobs cape and skirt styled by Anne Wlaysewski for RJ Bennett Represents; Tory Burch and A.L.C. skirts styled by Eddy Alcantara for Mark Edward Inc.; Anthropologie clutches styled by Judith Trezza for RJ Bennett Represents; Janis by Janis Savitt cuff styled by Phyllis Baker for Mark Edward Inc.; remaining items styled by Anita Salerno for RJ Bennett Represents); for details, see Shopping Guide
RUSTIC FUR
RACHEL ZOE FOR QVC, $142, in October
at qvc.com Faux-fur jacket,
Silk gown, price upon request, leather belt, $225, both, MICHAEL KORS, call 866-709-KORS
Fox-fur jacket,
Faux-fur cropped shrug, MICHAEL MICHAEL KORS, $130, at select Stein Mart stores nationwide
Coyote-fur jacket with silk lining, M.PATMOS, $2,295, at Barneys New York
Rabbit-fur coat,
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All still lifes: Mark Platt (Michael Kors dress and shrug, M.Patmos coat, and Isabel Marant coat styled by Anne Wlaysewski for RJ Bennett Represents; remaining items styled by Anita Salerno for RJ Bennett Represents); for details, see Shopping Guide
When it comes to safety, the Fiesta has you covered. It has more airbags than any other car in its class. * Seven in all, including front-seat side, side-curtain airbags and a class-exclusive drivers knee airbag for added protection. Standard. Add a robust structure crafted with ultra-high-strength steel and AdvanceTrac ESC to the equation, and you have a car that promises you peace of mind. Just like those cars with fancy logos on the hood.
TROPICAL EVENING
CL ASSIC : TH E LWD N EW: TH E WH ITE B L A ZER
Embroidered silk and cashmere cardigan, OSCAR DE LA RENTA, $1,790, collection at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC Wool jacket, BILL BLASS, $995, at Bill Blass, NYC
Runway: courtesy of Chanel; Roger Vivier shoe and Tom Binns Design earrings: courtesy of the designers; remaining still lifes: Mark Platt (Oscar de la Renta blouse styled by Phyllis Baker for Mark Edward Inc.; Badgley Mischka Couture dress, 3.1 Phillip Lim blazer, and Marc Jacobs bag styled by Judith Trezza for RJ Bennett Represents; Giambattista Valli dress, Valentino dress, and Stella McCartney belt styled by Anne Wlaysewski for RJ Bennett Represents; remaining items styled by Anita Salerno for RJ Bennett Represents); for details, see Shopping Guide
CHANEL
Swarovski crystal-detail silk dress, DOO.RI, $1,795, collection at Saks Fifth Avenue stores nationwide
W ear It With...
Elastic belt with flower buckle, STELLA MCCARTNEY, $315, at Stella McCartney, NYC
Shell, silver, and pearl ring, MESI JILLY, $1,195, at Kirna Zabte, NYC
Crystal, rhinestone, and seaglass earrings, TOM BINNS DESIGN, $440, at Tom Binns Megastore, NYC
Tea-dyed gazar pumps with wood flower detail, ROGER VIVIER, price upon request, to special order, call 212-861-5371
PHILLIP LIM,
$350, at 3.1 Phillip Lim, NYC
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EDITORS NOTE: Liven up a pale palette with bright accents and undersea extras.
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2300
Co ecti n
(.66 carats)
D signe
Swiss Movement
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www.jorggray.com
TROPICAL ESSENTIAL
Amethyst, citrine, and shell necklace, IRADJ MOINI, $1,210, at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC
STATEMENT JEWELRY
Metal chain necklace with glass and plastic beads, LANVIN, $1,895, at Marissa Collections, Naples, FL
AURLIE BIDERMANN, prices OSCAR DE LA RENTA, $995, BALENCIAGA BY NICOLAS GHESQUIRE, $1,745,
collection at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC visit oscardelarenta .com. Lambskin dress, Coral and shell necklace, upon request, at the Webster, Miami Beach
Cuffs with poured glass and rhinestone detail, MARK WALSH LESLIE CHIN, $675 each, visit vintageluxury.com
Metal and enamel bracelets, CHANEL, $4,785 each, at select Chanel boutiques nationwide
Resin and metal bangles, YVES SAINT LAURENT, $495 each, at Yves Saint Laurent, NYC Yellow gold necklace with tourmaline beads, VERDURA, price upon request, at Verdura, NYC
Satin ribbon necklace with agate, howlite, and Swarovski crystals, NICOLE WHISENHUNT, $695, collection at vivre.com
Gold-plated brass necklace with shells, turquoise, bone, crystal, and opal, SEQUIN, $450, call 212-398-7363
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Nicole Whisenhunt necklace and Verdura necklace: courtesy of the designers; MaxMara necklace: Devon Jarvis (styling by Bill Laughlin for Mark Edward Inc.); remaining still lifes: Mark Platt (Iradj Moini necklace styled by Judith Trezza for RJ Bennett Represents; remaining items styled by Anita Salerno for RJ Bennett Represents); for details, see Shopping Guide
LOEWE
ISABEL MARANT
MARC JACOBS
BALMAIN
THE JACKET
Sequin-embellished wool sweater,
THE PANTS
Viscose-blend pants with sequin detail, CHLO, $3,485, to special order at Chlo boutiques nationwide
THE CARDIGAN
Sequinembellished bamboo cashmereblend cardigan, ADAM, $395, call 212-229-2838
THE DRESS
Viscose dress with sequin detail, FRENCH CONNECTION, $298, collection at select Bloomingdales stores nationwide
ARMANI EXCHANGE,
$150, visit armaniexchange.com Silk cardigan with sequin detail, DKNY, $295, call 800-231-0884
Sequin tunic,
Embellished cotton jacket, LANVIN, price upon request, to special order at Barneys New York
Sequin-embellished cotton-blend cardigan, MICHAEL MICHAEL KORS, $120, collection at select Macys stores nationwide
Silk organza dress with sequin detail, ADAM, $245, at Adam, NYC
Indian tweed jacket with sequins, KATE SPADE NEW YORK, $525, visit katespade.com
Sequinembellished crinkled chiffon pants, JOIE, $598, collection at select Saks Fifth Avenue stores nationwide
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LIVE LONG AND PROSPER WITH SPACE-AGE CHOKERS AND FUTURISTIC CUFFS AND RINGS
Metal cuff, H&M, $13, visit hm.com
SUPERGALACTIC
Brass and copper ring with Swarovski crystal, FALLON, $104, visit shopbop.com
SOLANGE AZAGURYPARTRIDGE,
price upon request, at Solange AzaguryPartridge, NYC Brass and pewter ring with rhinestones,
Gold-plated collar,
CLINE
Rhodium silver-mixed ring, KATE SPADE NEW YORK, $75, visit katespade.com
Gunmetal ring, REED KRAKOFF, $365, at Reed Krakoff, NYC Gold-plated neckpiece,
White gold ring with opal, BOTTEGA VENETA, price upon request, visit bottegaveneta.com
Sterling silver collar, ROBERT LEE MORRIS, $1,995, at the Robert Lee Morris Gallery, NYC
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Runway: courtesy of Cline; Solange Azagury-Partridge ring, Chanel Fine Jewelry ring, Lydia Courteille ring, and Eddie Borgo for Jen Kao neckpiece: courtesy of the designers; remaining still lifes: Mark Platt (Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquire , Fallon, Kate Spade New York, J. Crew, and Bottega Veneta rings styled by Anita Salerno for RJ Bennett Represents; H&M cuff, Alexis Bittar collar, and Cline cuff styled by Phyllis Baker for Mark Edward Inc.; Reed Krakoff ring, Robert Lee Morris collar, and M.C.L by Matthew Campbell Laurenza ring styled by Judith Trezza for RJ Bennett Represents); for details, see Shopping Guide
TH E CL ASSIC CLUTCH
Acrylic embellished calfskin bag, MARC JACOBS, $795, at Marc Jacobs, NYC
CHRISTIAN DIOR
Sequin-embellished bag, GAP, $40, visit gap.com Snakeskin bag with semiprecious-stone detail, JUDITH LEIBER, $1,495, visit judithleiber.com Sequin-embellished calfskin bag, MARC JACOBS, $895, at Barneys New York
Lambskin clutch,
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Since 1975
MADE IN U.S.A.
For your nearest retailer call 800.521.5986 or visit us at www.kabana.net
Styling by Jessica de Ruiter; prop styling by Juliet Jernigan; hair by Mara Roszak for Tresemm at starworksartists.com; makeup by Stephen Sollitto for Benefit Cosmetics at starworksartists.com. Fuhrman wears: LAgence dress; Shipka wears: Papo dAnjo dress; Steinfeld wears: Thakoon dress
LITTLE WOMEN
Whoever said girls were made of everything nice would be scandalized by Hollywoods newest crop of tween stars, who are tackling dark, gritty material with the aplomb of seasoned icons. Thirteen-year-old Isabelle Fuhrmans performance as a murderous midget in 2009s Orphan prompted Robert Downey Jr.whose wife, Susan, coproduced the filmto compare her to a young Jodie Foster. But Fuhrman says her only training consists of observing other kids at school and taking a little bit from each person. About her costars in next years Salvation Boulevard Pierce Brosnan, Marisa Tomei, Greg Kinnear, and Jennifer Connellyshe cops to not doing all of her homework. I havent seen all of their films, since a lot of them are rated R, she says. But on set I kept pinching myself, thinking, How many Oscars are in the room? The caliber of their costars alone speaks volumes. Hailee
Hollywoods youngest leading ladies have already shared the screen with an A-list buffet of costars. One things for sure: Prom wont be this cool. Photographed by Sasha Eisenman
Steinfeld, 14, was chosen from 15,000 hopefuls to play the lead in the Coen Brothers remake of the Western True Grit, opposite Jeff Bridges and Matt Damon. Theyre practically just big kids, she says. And Kiernan Shipka, the 11-year-old behind Sally Draper the somber daughter of Jon Hamms elusive Don and January Jones distant Betty in AMCs Mad Men has carried some of the saddest, most affecting arcs of the outstanding past season. Deborah Lacey, who plays Carla, Sallys quiet nanny, recalls a scene in which Sally, emotionally flattened after the loss of her grandfather, pummels her younger brother in a fit. She went to a place thats really angry for a kid, Lacey says. After we shot it, I thought, Where did this come from? Its even more impressive considering that in real life, Shipkas too sweet even to choose between Twilight s Jacob and Edward. Her solution? Im Team Jedward.Nojan Aminosharei
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Introducing the sport hybrid. Hybrids are all the rage, as they should be. Efficiency and economy are more important now than ever. But at Honda, we werent about to turn our back on hairpin turns and manual gearboxes.
So we designed a hybrid that seemingly defies logic. One that embraces the driving experience most hybrids ignore. The result is certainly a hybrid. But also obviously something else altogether. Learn more at cr-z.honda.com.
EX model shown with accessory wheels. 2010 American Honda Motor Co., Inc.
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cigarette pants and matching scoop-neck top, is warmer, but shes also totally absorbed in her latest project. When Aura asks her where she keeps the lightbulbs, Siri says distractedly, Theyre in the white cabinetat which point the camera directs our gaze to a wall-size built-in with so many identical doors that it looks less like storage space than a game show from hell. But whats really making Aura feel like an alien is that, unlike her driven sister and mother, she has no idea what she wants to do with her life. So naturally, she starts looking for a fellow to soothe her ego and take her mind off things. Thanks in no small part to the talented young cinematographer Jody Lee Lipes, Tiny Furniture looks as witty and surprising as its dialogue is. Not bad on a five-figure budgetbut surely casting and location were Dunhams thriftiest moves. The loft and surrounding neighborhood we see are where she grew up. As for Nadine and Siri, theyre played with easy conviction by her sister, Grace, and
Tiny Furniture : Joe Anderson/courtesy of IFC Films; Made in Dagenham: Susie Allnutt/courtesy of Sony Pictures Classics; The Company Men : Claire Folger/ The Weinstein Company; The Kings Speech : courtesy of the Weinstein Company; Russo-Young: IFC Films/Courtesy Everett Collection; Dunham: Richard Koek; Mahoney: Kristen Johnson
GIRLS AL OUD
their mother, Laurie Simmons, an acclaimed artist-photographer whose work includes, yes, very small furniture placed in unnerving relation to life-size women. (One such piece features a bride shot from the shoulders down who, lifting her skirt high, looks as if she might just have given birth to the modest gray and white ranch house between her feet.) Simmons work has a transgressive edge without being obvious about it, and so does her daughters. Dunham turns in a vanity-free performance that mines Auras pudginess less for laughs than for a revelatory shock value: When was the last time you saw a plump person deftly cram herself into a Spanx-like body stocking? It has the fascination of a magic trick. In a mainstream comedy, Aura would be the glowing beneficiary of a tidy, tension-free ending. But Lena Dunham is an original, and so is her movie. Its one of Tiny Furnitures cockeyed pleasures that when the closing credits roll, it would seem that nothing has changed for Aura and yet everything hasand that feels just right, because even on those rare occasions when life ties itself up into a tidy bow, you can bet it will come undone in no time. And there are some especially satisfying developments along the way, including a glamorous old friend who turns out to envy Aura rather than the other way around, and two men, both cads, the second of whom is almost worth the trouble. Lucky for us, this leads to an all-time-great outlandish sex scene, which, even as were cackling in disbelief, manages to be rather hot. As with many moments in Tiny Furniture, this one has the kind of strangeness that makes the movie feel more, not less, realistic. After all, what sort of future awaits the woman who Pipeof with one dream: David her suitors Call Dunham as hasnt looked over her shoulder at least once and thought with a bit of a thrill, I did that ?
TRUST US
Even postKathryn Bigelow, Hollywood is a mans world. So its still a particular triumph when a new crop of female writer-directors succeeds in putting the postmodern female experience front and center, from a disaffected NYC beatnik (You Wont Miss Me ), to a lost college grad (Tiny Furniture ), to an inner-city teen battling her vices as she searches for redemption (Yelling to the Sky ). ELLE salutes the women who are changing the cinematic landscape from behind the camera.Seth Plattner
CLASS DISMISSED
Ben Affleck, Maria Bello, and Tommy Lee Jones form the hot center of John Wells The Company Men, a gripping drama of highliving corporate execs knocked off their perches by a ruthless boss running from the recession. With the suspense of a thriller, the movie makes you question just about every American value, from rugged individualism to the notion that limitless wealth is a noble goal.
Ry Russo-Young AGE: 29 You Wont Miss Me (2010), which follows the disillusioned, city-dwelling Sally. ON HER PROTAGONIST: Is she an [awful] person? Is she deeply troubled? Yes, in some ways. But shes honest, and theres something amazing about someone whos that true to themselves. PLAYING WITH THE GUYS: I find it really exhilarating. There are moments when Im crying in a heap, but I think boys cry in heaps too.
WHO: RECENT PROJECT:
WHO:
(2010) won the SXSW Film Festival Jury Prize for best narrative. FATHERLY ADVICE: My dad says, A rising flood lifts all boats, so whats good for one womana writer, director, producer, actress who makes bold choicesis good for all of us. GUIDING PRINCIPLE: I never ask actors to do something I wouldnt do [on-screen] myself. Ive asked them to take their pants off, but no more than Ive taken my own pants off.
Victoria Mahoney 43 DEBUT: Yelling to the Sky (2010) EASY DOES IT: Theres a language within my generation of filmmakers of trying to slow things down. Were not interested in Hurry up! and Prevent feeling! The pace is judicious and has to do with investigation. ROCK THE VOTE: When a film opens with a female lead or director, I say to my friends, You want to keep working? You go, you buy a ticketthats a vote to keep us in the throes.
AGE:
WHO:
WAR OF WORDS
As Englands royals on the eve of World War II, Colin Firth and Helena Bonham Carter show great charm, grace, and courage in The Kings Speech. Problem: The stammering King George VI can barely get out a sentence, let alone an address that will rally the nation. A commoner speech therapist (Geoffrey Rush) comes to his rescue. And Timothy Spalls portrayal of Winston Churchill is simply spot-on.K.D.
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Quinto in Angels rehearsal. Inset: Milton Glasers posters for the 1993 (above) and current (below) productions
Because most contemporary plays have little use for history, history usually returns the favor. And political dramastakedowns of sitting leaders, agitprop about oppressionhave a shelf life even shorter than most. (You dont see too many revivals of MacBird , a satire of Lyndon Johnson that was all the rage in 1967.) So it may come as a surprise that Angels in America , Tony Kushners two-part, six-hour self-described Gay Fantasia on National Themes, which won tons of awards in the early 90s and was made into an HBO miniseries in 2003, is returning to New York in a major production at the Signature Theatre. Why should a play whose nominal subject is AIDS and whose btes noires include Ronald Reagan and Roy Cohn (a right-wing lawyer who died in 1986) feel so fresh and necessary in 2010? Its more than just being ahead of the curve politically, though Kushner has a knack for that. (His 2001 play Homebody/Kabul, about the trap that is
Afghanistan, was begun long before the United States went to war there.) The real strength of Angels lies beneathand is usefully disguised bythe politics. We see AIDS depicted, but we feel the eternal injustice of victimhood. Reagan is both the man who wouldnt speak the name of the new disease and the embodiment of the ageold appeal of arrogance, and the repulsive Cohn becomes an enemy to be pitied when revealed as an avatar of that timeless figurethe outsider who believes hes become an insider. Even the plays good guys, including the guilt-riddled overthinker Louis Ironson (played in this revival by Zachary Quinto) and the fabulously bitchy prophet Prior Walter (Christian Borle), are imbued with a complicated humanity that lifts them out of time as they are simultaneously dragged down by it. Shakespearean is a tag not lightly conferred, but if somehow the suffering of a fourteenthcentury Veronese couple means a great deal to us though the historical details of their family feuds are now inscrutable, Louis and Prior and even Roy Cohn will surely seem just as real when one day AIDS is merely a footnotable acronym. Jesse Green
Minaj
When you hear the 52 neon-wig-wearing Nicki Minaj spitting out growls, cartoon voices, and tightly wound lyrics on verses for Mariah Carey, Usher, Kanye West, Ludacris, Drake, and Lil Wayne, its obvious why the critical masses have dubbed her Lil Kim 2.0. (Not that Kims too pleased with the comparisonthis past summer, she accused Minaj of cribbing her style.) But the 25-year-old Queens native, who grew up listening to Salt-N-Pepa and Lauryn Hill, is more concerned about keeping up with the boys. When I write, I dont try to compete with any other female rapper, she says. The only way youre going to push your pen is to think, Ive got to shut these dudes down. And thats coming from the only female rapper signed to Cash Money Records, which on November 23 will release Pink Friday, a debut album lled with boombastic club anthems sung by her alter ego, Roman Zolanski, collaborations with Will.I.Am and Drake, and so-bizarre-they-work hooks (she samples Annie Lennox in the slow-jam single Your Love). Now who compares to that?Julie Vadnal
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Quinto: Gregory Costanzo/courtesy of the production; Angels in America poster art: Milton Glaser; White: Bryan Bedder/Getty Images; Rivers: Frank Micelotta/Getty Images; Mirren: Frank Masi/Summit Entertainment; Minaj: Howard Huang
With their box office appeal and boldest roles yet, these over-60 actresses have put a bullet in the age-old trope that showbiz is just for girls. NOJAN AMINOSHAREI
GOLDEN AGE
Paul Auster continues his evolution from cerebral existential muser to sage raconteur of New York Citys alluring byways and lifeways
sister Angela threatens to make trouble for Miles, as Pilar is underage. So he returns to New York, on the run yet again, to shack up with his friend Bing Nathan, the shambling, hirsute, loyal de facto leader of the squat in Sunset Park, and the two bright, complicated women who also live there, Ellen Brice and Alice Bergstrom. While there, Miles gradually reconnects with his familyfather and stepmother, mother and stepfatherall of whom Auster delineates with a deep, affectionate knowledge of the citys cultural circles that makes them ring familiarly true: They are, respectively, an independent literary publisher, an English literary scholar, a famous actress, and an independent-movie producer. Their scenes resonate with a warm acknowledgment of the tests and limitations of age and the vibrancy of experience, providing a solid counterpoint to the unvoiced longings and unresolved conflicts of Miles and his friends. The novel is infused with an atmosphere of nostalgia: bittersweet anecdotes of famous baseball players; an old Hollywood movie called The Best Years of Our Lives that serves as a touchstone for several characters; Bings Hospital for Broken Things, where typewriters, fountain pens, and vacuum-tube radios are repaired. The style is digressive and lopingone long, easy run-on sentence after another, phrases joined by commas instead of periods, lulling the reader into a cozy familiarity with both the tone and the characters. The end, sudden and abrupt, comes as a full stop; after 320 pages of easy cantering, we are thrown from the horse and left to dust off and walk on, slightly bewildered. No matter. It was a Auster lovely ride.Kate Christensen
THE
The absent people have all fled in haste, in shame, in confusion, and it is certain that wherever they are living now (if they have found a place to live and are not camped out in the streets) their new dwellings are smaller than the houses they have lost.
1. MICHAEL CUNNINGHAM BY NIGHTFALL (FARRAR, STRAUS AND GIROUX) Most readers were pulled in by the prose of this Pulitzer-winning writer (The Hours), even though the storyabout the midlife crisis of Peter and Rebecca, an arty SoHo couple with an empty nest suddenly filled with Rebeccas neer-do-well brotherstruck some as small beer.
Paul Austers sixteenth novel, Sunset Park (Henry Holt), articulately probes the unachieved desires and ambitions of four squatters in a house in the eponymous down-at-the-heels Brooklyn neighborhood. The story centers on Miles Heller, a handsome, bright, guilt-racked guy on the run from his family and New York City for the past seven years, following the traumatic death of his stepbrother. Miles has landed in South Florida, where he works trashing out foreclosed houses and falls in love with brilliant, charismatic high school senior Pilar Sanchez, the youngest and now orphaned daughter of Cuban immigrants. The two live happily together until Pilars older
2. MYLA GOLDBERG THE FALSE FRIEND (DOUBLEDAY) Twenty years after the fact, Celia experiences a suddenly recovered memory of the day her childhood friend Djuna went missing. The author of Bee Season intrigued and entertained with Celias subsequent quest to find closure, but a lot of readers ended up scratching their heads about the way it all plays out.
3. ANTONYA NELSON
BOUND (BLOOMSBURY) Menace haunts this tale, too, as the BTK killer is again stalking a Wichita neighborhood in which Catherine, the young third wife of an old hound dog clearly looking to bag a fourth marriage, is also trying to cope with being named guardian of a deceased friends daughter. But wait, readers ask, What was that about the killer?
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For the wonderfully titled Freuds Blind Spot (Free Press), editor Elisa Albert (author of a critically adored 2008 novel, The Book of Dahlia) asked 24 literary authors to write about their life experiences with what she calls the unsung heroes of our psychological development: siblings. Even the Good Doctor never really focused on brotherly and sisterly influences on our psyches (which is ironic, considering that he was from a family of 10 children), but these writers prove that such interactions, for better or for worse, profoundly shape who we are. In the essay The Gospel According to P, Victor LaValle recalls meeting his dad for the first time at 10 years old, only to discover that he also had a stepbrother hed never met. How do you form
a kinship with someone you never knew existed? In Faith and Jill Soloways Burning Questions, the two sisters, only a year apart, interview each other as adults about sexuality (Faith is gay), TV shows (Jill likes The City), and growing up white on the South Side of Chicago. And then theres T Coopers Thirty-eight Questions Ive Always Wanted to Ask My Brother Steve but Never Have Until Now, a touching family history told through the Cooper brothers e-mails, which asks and explores this volumes most bewildering question: No matter how unconditionally we might love our siblings, how much do we actually know about the inner workings of the person we once bonded with over Shrinky Dinks and Ren & Stimpy?JULIE VADNAL
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IMMORT AL COMBA T
Now and then a writer comes along who helps us fathom both the intricacies of a scientific specialty and its human meaning. Lewis Thomas, Sherwin Nuland, and Oliver Sacks come to mind. Add to their company Siddhartha Mukherjee: oncologist, researcher, and author of The Emperor of All Maladies (Scribner), a sweeping, erudite, and challenging biography of cancer. A Rhodes scholar educated at Stanford, Oxford, and Harvard, Mukherjee began
Marlboro promised a nearly erotic celebration of tobacco and machismo: Mansized taste of honest tobacco comes full through. Smoothdrawing filter feels right in your mouth. Works fine but doesnt get in the way. The iconic Marlboro Man, with his hypermasculine getup, was an elaborate decoy set up to prove that there was nothing effeminate or sissy about smoking filter-tipped cigarettes.
A magisterial narrative of the fight against cancer opens up a wide view onto our Herculean conflict with what is but might not have to be
some 3,600 years ago. (Therapy? There is none.) And it propels us forward through the alternately exhilarating and desolating series of discoveries and setbacks in modern medicine that have led us gradually into battle with this eternal foean itinerary that is frankly no walk in the park once Mukherjee gets to charting the past few decades breakthroughs in genetic and molecular medicine, but one that yields a rewarding sense of perspective and understanding in the end. Along the way, the author threads his narrative with recurrent visits to Carla Long, a 36-year-old schoolteacher and mother of two, whom he thought was doomed when she became his patient in 2004 (thankfully, she is still alive today). He also seasons his bracingly intelligent peregrinations with deft touches of irony and whiffs of humor: He finds an ad on the back of a 1952 Life magazine that bragged, More doctors smoke Camels. And after quoting an experts calculation that the risk of not having a mammogram until after age 50 is about the same as riding a bicycle for 15 hours without a helmet, he winkingly describes the clinic in Malm, Sweden, that provided the decisive data on such screening: Patients streamed in and out effortlessly. Many of them rode off on their bicycleswithout helmets.Ben Dickinson Mukherjee
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this monumental account years ago as a humble journal; it soon became a journey that carried me into the depths not only of science and medicine, but of culture, history, and politics, he writes. Indeed, it transports him back to the first known description of breast cancer, on a papyrus, courtesy of Imhotep, an Egyptian doctor who lived
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ELLE BEAUTY
I N S I D E THE TOP 24 HOLLYWOOD HAIR AND MAKEUP PRODUCTS, FINDING YOUR SIGNATURE SCENT, AND MORE
TROPICAL STORM
Photograph by Thibaut de Saint Chamas
John wanted the girls to look like flowers that youd wrap in cellophane, makeup artist Pat McGrath says of the aggressively bright, angular eyes she created for John Gallianos fall Dior Couture show. Hothouse blooms such as neon orchids and exotic birds of paradise inspired McGraths blocks of bright blue, red, purple, and orange shadow. Deep, dark purple lips like in an Irving Penn photo finished each face. Customize the haute look with Make Up For Ever Aqua Cream in Turquoise, Dior Style Liner in Noir Black, Dior Addict Lipcolor in Pinstripe Plum, and Dior Vernis nail polish in Smoking Plum.
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CUTTING EDGE
Hairstylist Tommy Buckett never works alone. At his post at NYCs ber-hip Marie Robinson Salon, Buckett stocks an oversize drawer with an arsenal of the best stylers drugstore favorites included. Anyone can have great hair, Buckett says. A good cut is an important foundation, but products will transform the cut into a style once the client leaves my chair. He also has an eye for cool; he shaved the head of ELLEs own style director, Kate Lanphear, months before Rihanna took the look mainstream. After only eight years in the hair business, Buckett is a celebrity favoritehis handiwork can be seen on his Hollywood clients such as Rachel McAdams, Ashley Olsen, and Sienna Miller. Hes behind Brooklyn Deckers envyinducing hair in the ELLE Make Better DVD series, too. Here, he shares his A-list tips. What styles are your celeb clients into right now? A lot of them are young, and they want hair that is funits no longer about coiffed updos and perfect finger waves. Im doing more messy buns, ponytails, and choppy bobs for the red carpet. Do you think these fresher looks are easier to re-create at home? Definitely. They would be great for a night out and dont require a lot of styling skills. Product is key: Dont be afraid to use too muchI layer dry shampoo and volumizing
Whats standing between you and Hollywood hair? The right blend of styling products. Hairstylist Tommy Buckett shares his winning formula with Janna Johnson
hairspray to create fullness and texture before pulling hair back into a loose bun or ponytail. Are products always necessary? What if someone is a product-phobe? You dont need a lot, but you should put product in the hair after it is drythats what really helps achieve a finished look. Whether you want a shiny, polished cuticle, chunkier, piecey ends, or soft curls, you get that by putting the styling product on after the hair is dry. For polish, try a light leave-in conditioner; I use salt spray on dry hair to add texture, and finishing waves with curl cream will prevent frizz. What other misconceptions do your clients have when it comes to styling? People still abuse heat. Heats not that bad for your hair if used appropriately, but I see so many women in the salon doing their own blow-dries, and they turn the flatiron or curling iron on as hot as it can go, scorching their hair. You dont need the tool to be on the highest setting; it only takes a little bit of heat to smooth the cuticle and eliminate frizz. Its also important to be realistic about your hair type. People often come in and say, Oh, that volumizing spray wont work on me; I have really thick hair, and in fact they actually have a very normal hair type. Use your stylist as a resource, have him or her assess your texture, and ask for recommendations. When your cut and product regimen work together, your hair will look its best. What was your favorite part about collaborating on the ELLE Make Better DVDs? The series is really aligned with my personal philosophy: working with what you already have. Its not about thinking you have to look like a celebrity; its realistic. I tried to give tips and style hair in a way that was helpful for the viewervery few people have a full hair and makeup team at their disposal, so why create a look that requires that? The shoots were often very long. How did you keep Brooklyns hair looking good the entire time? I used a little curl cream on her hair when it was wet and a little serum on the ends so it was supersmooth. Then I blow-dried the hair with a round brush, adding a little root lifter for height. After it was dry, I used a shine spray and brushed it out with a Mason Pearson, and between takes brushed it to maintain the shine. It was loose and pretty, definitely something you could re-create at home. If you dont feel comfortable with a round brush, try hot rollers to smooth the hair.
(From top) I cant live without the Sedu Revolution Pro, Buckett says. Its faster than any dryer Ive used; Buckett deems Motions Foaming Wrap Lotion the best drugstore findhe works it into both thin and thick hair for unbelievable body that is soft and touchable, never sticky; LOral Elnett Satin Hairspray is a classic spray that works, so why mess with the best?; Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray is quite possibly the most amazing dry shampoo. It gives texture and body, amazing for when you want to pull hair up into a cool ponytail or bun; Buckett applies Shu Uemura Essence Absolue as a serum to give a glossy shine, control frizz, and leave hair silky.
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Portrait: photographed by Jacqueline Bates; Decker: Matthias Vriens-McGrath; all still lifes: Steven Krause
COLOR PLUSH
EYESTUDIO
n o i t a nt e m g i P ven e n U
SCREEN SAVER
Slather on sunscreen to stop spots from darkening, andeven betterprevent new ones from forming. Prone to melasma? Minimizing UV exposure will prevent flareups. Even small amounts of unprotected sun exposure can make pigmentation worse, Scottsdale, AZ, dermatologist Jennifer Linder, MD, says. Stick with a hypoallergenic version (try Neutrogena Sensitive Skin SPF 60 Sunblock Lotion), free of irritating chemical blockers such as avobenzone or oxybenzone.
Its possible to fake awless skin with foundation, but wouldnt you rather not have to? Whether you rely on a high-tech laser or a lo- topical cream, with the right plan, you can erase pigmentation, andyes!make cover-up optional. The rst step? Identify your pigmentations provenance: Diagnosis is crucial, New York City derm Dennis Gross, MD, says. Not only is the right treatment key, the wrong treatment can make discoloration darker.JANNA JOHNSON
PEEL POWER
Both Linder and Gross recommend monthly in-office peels to exfoliate the epidermis, remove superficial pigmentpacked cells, and hasten the effects of topical products. But Gross warns against bleaching peels that claim immediate depigmentation results. You need long-term exposure to an active ingredient to reap the benefit; a short period of time is not going to be effective, he says. For small PIH marks, try an at-home glycolic peel like Grosss own or Cane + Austin Retexturizing Treatment Pads. Both reduce fine lines and correct discoloration.
LASER TAG
Ironic? Yes. Zapping a UV-induced solar lentigo with light can usually erase the mark. The Q-switched YAG laser is perfect for sun spots, Gross says. Its light wave is absorbed by the brown color without affecting surrounding skin. This onetime in-office treatment targets the spot, leaving a thin, crepey scab that flakes off in days. But melasma and PIH patients should steer clear. Studies have found melasma to be unresponsive to or exacerbated by laser and intense pulsed-light treatments, Linder says. The heat and inflammation can trigger new pigment production. A 2006 Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology article agrees: Successful laser treatment for melasma is the exception, rather than the rule, author David Goldberg, MD, says.
For more skin tips, go to elle.com/doctorsorders
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238: All still lifes: Steven Krause; clients, from top: Charley Gallay/Getty Images; Jesse Grant/WireImage; Jeff Vespa/WireImage; icons, from top: Hulton Archive/Getty Images; Bettmann/Corbis; Ron Galella/WireImage; hairstylists: courtesy of subjects. 239: All still lifes: Steven Krause; clients, from top: Stephen Lovekin/Getty Images; Jamie McCarthy/WireImage; Mark Sullivan/WireImage; icons, from top: Silver Screen Collection/Getty Images; Bob Thomas/Getty Images; courtesy of the Everett Collection; makeup artists: courtesy of subjects
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When it comes to looking red-carpet ready, you dont need to be a leading starlet to steal the show. Ashley Fodor reveals the styling secrets of Hollywoods top hair and makeup artists
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In my bag at all times, SMITHS ROSEBUD SALVE can be used anywhere on the face for a little shine and moisture.
Jewelry for the body, NARS BODY GLOW gives skin a beautiful glow with just the right amount of texture.
beauty reference for shoots. She is the epitome of womanliness, for her makeup, hair, and style.
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MARLENE DIETRICH had a look that was so feminine, yet so powerful. In her old films, her glamour is mesmerizing.
For a flawless finishing touch, Stiles uses LAURA I use this on everyone, especially under the eyes.
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Invest in a good eyelash curler, insists Stiles. It opens your eyes and makes you look more awake. Her favorite: SHU UEMURA EYELASH CURLER.
all of her locks and exposed her face, letting her amazing freckles shine.
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e may be drawn to a perfume for many reasons: because it reminds us of a gardenor a personwe once loved; because we hope it will reduce all men who cross our path to helpless, love-struck fools. Its difficult to imagine reaching for a scent thinking, Here is a fragrance that will put people off. Yet a quick
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glance at the discussion boards on juicejunkie sites such as Nstperfume.com or Basenotes.net will verify that a perfume that sends one person into raptures of delight is practically guaranteed to be someone elses eau no. Just as some will linger in the wake of a cigar with noses aloft while others flee its acrid aftermath, we all experience scent differently. The prevailing theory about why we love or hate certain smells is that scents attach to positive or negative moments in our lives, since the region of the brain that pro-
cesses odor cozies up to the area tied to memory. So someone may love the sharp green whiff of fresh-cut grass that characterizes Issey Miyakes A Scent because it conjures mental postcards of childhood vacations, while someone else may hate the smell because she associates it with the sweaty toil of having to mow lawns. Theres new research, though, to indicate that we might be hardwired to appreciate or detest at least some smells: A paper published in Public Library of Science Computational Biology in April 2010 by neurobiologist Rafi Haddad
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Photographed by Viki Forshee (models, from left: Rebecca at Marilyn, Katsia at Elite, Asha at Next, and Louise at Marilyn); flowers, citrus, and grass: Getty Images
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A fragrance that sends one woman into a pleasure-swoon might make another hold her nose. What creates the perfect match is a stroke of alchemical luck. By April Long
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Im getting married in December. What are some lifestyle, diet, and health tips that I can adopt now to ensure my skin looks its best on the big day?
Amy S., Los Angeles, CA
Yes. Even in winter, protect your skin with sunblock. As a matter of fact, sunblock should be used year-round. For a good daily anti-aging moisturizer, I recommend Olay Regenerist DNA Superstructure Cream. It contains SPF 25 and powerful antioxidants.
Get plenty of rest. Try to get at least 8 hours of sleep (a challenge when planning a wedding!). Eat well-balanced meals such as sh, green salads, fruits, and nuts, get some form of exercise daily, and invest in good skincare products.
This month, Dr. Peredo answers questions about maintaining a youthful, refreshed look as we head into winter.
Im in my early 30s and have not been kind to my skin over the years. Smoking, tanning, you name it. Im looking for a refresh and a comprehensive anti-aging regimen. Do you have any recommendations?
Candice B., Des Moines, IA
I work in broadcast and wear a lot of makeup on-camera. I would love a good daily cleanser/makeup remover that also exfoliates. Do you have any suggestions?
Kaitlin G., Portland, OR
Olay Pro-X Age Repair Lotion with SPF may be a good product to try. It has SPF, vitamins, peptides, and antioxidants, and will help protect your skin from future sun damage. Also try Olay Pro-X Deep Wrinkle Treatment and Wrinkle Smoothing Cream to help reverse the appearance of wrinkles for a fresh, youthful look.
Try Olay Dual Action Cleanser + Pore Scrub. Its great because it combines a cleanser and a toner to remove makeup and impurities and tone the skin.
Just as youll need a warmer winter wardrobe, your skin requires extra attention in the colder months.
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of the Weizmann Institute in Rehovot, Israel, showed that when a robotic e-nose rated scents on a scale from pleasant to unpleasant, its assessments were 90 percent aligned with ratings by both Ethiopian and Israeli human test subjects. Interestingly, many of the scents deemed most universally appealing in the study were those that regularly crop up as top notes in popular perfumes: grapefruit, bergamot, orange, lime, freesia, and mimosaand many of the smells that rated lowest in the pleasant spectrum were those that provide the base notes (and, for some people, the ick factor),
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such as musk and patchouli. For the perfumer, there are notes that are considered patently more difficult than others, just as there are those that are guaranteed crowd-pleasers. Some notes are definitely more divisive than others, says Kilian Hennessy, whose By Kilian range of perfumes includes A Taste of Heaven, which smells of absinthe and lavender, and Love, which leads off with a heady whiff of marshmallow. For example, we know that leather notes are much more polarizing than citrus notes. Gardenia and tuberose are more polarizing than light florals such
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Photographed by Viki Forshee (models, from left: Michelle at Ford, Sasha at Marilyn, and Si at Elite)
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It takes moxie to anoint yourself with something your neighbor might find repellent.
but when you add those other notes, it becomes a sex bomb. No one had smelled anything like it before. Over the past decade, the more shocking scents have largely been created by niche perfumers who cater to the juiceobsessed customer. Rather than reach for consensus, they would prefer to spark the type of passionate opinions that will unspool on the aforementioned online message boards. Fragrances are like cocktailsthere are some you like and some you dont, says Christophe Cervasel, who founded the five-scent Atelier Cologne line in 2008 with Sylvie Ganter, who had formerly worked for Fresh and Herms. People tend to go through our collection very quickly and say, This is the wear fragrances sit alongside more challenging creations. (And, on the flip side, not all smaller brands hew strictly to the offbeat: ber-niche Serge Lutens recent LEaua laundry-fresh, sudsy-smelling concoctionwas a targeted strike at the straightforward, widely appealing concept of clean .) Sometimes, too, a note is initially polarizing because its newa recent example being oud, which is derived from a resin of rotten wood and suggestive of the earthy, warm olfactory sensation youd get by pressing your nose to the forest floor. While it has been a favorite in the Middle East for centuries, oud has only recently crept into Western perfumery, now turning up in everything from Tom Fords Oud Wood to Bond No. 9 Perfume Oud to
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LEau dIssey features a warm mixture of florals and precious woods.
to Heaven offers a blazing hit of boozy rum before deepening into a blend of nutmeg, rosewood, and cedar. (3) Atelier Cologne Oolang Infini is based on blue tea, leather, and tobacco flower, with top notes of bergamot and neroli. (4) Guerlains vanilla-and-spice-heavy Shalimar is one of the first great love-it-or-hate-it scents. (5) YSL Belle DOpium, a new take on the classic, has notes of lily, sandalwood, and white pepper.
(1) Thierry Mugler Angel is a intense praline-and-patchouli concoction thats sure to turn heads, one way or another. (2) By Kilian Straight
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Guy Aroch
After a far-too-eventful decade spent seeking a modus vivendi with her breast implants, Elizabeth Hayt faced yet another deflating experienceone that made her think twice about keeping them
h, nooooo! Not again! I cried out, stark naked before my bathroom mirror. It was dawn on a Sunday morning last May, and Id been up all night writing. Id planned on hitting the shower but was instead hit by the horrifying sight of my suddenly lopsided-looking torsospecifically, my breasts, which now appeared to be scarily asymmetrical. With-
out any warning, trauma, or sensation, one of my implants had simply gone whoosh , its saline solution draining into my body. My right breast had dwindled down to a third of what it had been only the day before, to about an A cup, while the left one remained rounded and full, still a perfect B. The implants outer shellthin silicone rubber very similar to that of orthopedic joint replacements and pacemaker covers must have perforated. But how? By poking a hole in itself? By a voodoo pinpricking? At least no mystery surrounded the salines
augmentation wouldnt rank as American womens number-one choice for cosmetic surgerytallying nearly 312,000 procedures in 2009, according to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS)if every patient let herself get pre-freaked-out that her implant could one day spring a leak. I certainly didnteven after the fact. In January 2000, I decided that my naturally boyish frame could use a synthetic boost. Four years earlier, my marriage had ended amicably, and I was still single and now north of 35. In those pre-cougar times, I looked upon getting a rack as a means of sweetening my meat, if you will. I hoped to whet a wider range of male appetites, upping my chances of attracting the right matetop quality, relationship-ready, and stamped with a Manhattan zip code. Was I expecting too much from a couple of cans? Not from the perspective of a flatchested seventh-grade schoolgirl named Liz, the frequent ruler of my psyche, whose best friend, Baree, had developed D cupsmagnetic orbs that attracted droves of hormonally hopped-up boys. Like a goddess, Baree did not deign to speak, her lovely brown eyes silently lavishing mean teen-girl contempt upon the countless bazoom-besotted creatures. I was awestruck and envious. Lacking my best friends monumental physical assets, I relied on my smart mouth for attention. But the boys just rolled their eyes. Such was my introduction to feminine sexuality. A quarter of a century later, the memory of Barees bountiful cleavage coupled with the paucity of my own lingered, leaving me with a sense of inadequacy about my body. In spite of my discovery that a sizable male population was rapturously devoted to daintily bosomed females, I perceived the stacked as possessing a primeval power, an elusive feminine mystique. And so, after many years of yearning, I consulted with David Hidalgo, MD, the renowned New York City plastic surgeon. He gave me the backstory of the FDAs 1992 temporary restraining order against silicone-gel breast implants, their possible link with connective-tissue disease, and thus why their saline doppelgngers were the dummies du jour. In an examining room at his Park Avenue office, he fired off his saline-implant bullet points: (1) Dont expect a onetime procedure; (2) the devices wear out, typically at 10 years; (3) five percent, or one out of 20, deflate prematurely within three or four years; and (4) at least five percent of women develop capsular contracture, or scarring around the implant, potentially distorting the breast, causing pain, and requiring reoperation.
Barring disaster, what youre saying is that 10 years from now Ill have to do the whole shebang againreplace the implants? I asked. No, you dont have to replace them if theyre still in good shape, he clarified. Only if one deflates or theres some complication do you have to take them out and put new ones in, and usually you do replace both. But 70 percent of implants are intact at 10 years, and after that you might make it to 20, even 25 years. He swung apart his arms as if to say, Voil! before asking whether Id given any thought to size.
for his bada-bing theory of boob greed. This isnt an exact science. A lot has to do with judgment, Hidalgo explained. During surgery, I ultimately determine implant size based on your build and breast anatomy. And the implant doesnt even come pre-inflated. It gets filled during surgery. He retrieved a Mentor sample, handing me the wobbly, round, softball-size saline-brimming bag. It has a valve, he pointed out, showing me the teensy outer plastic stem. After my hands-on lesson, I received a brief education in the surgical nitty-gritties
Ive had three sets of implants, one procedure to reduce their size: a total of four rounds under the knife.
Not big, but not so small that the surgery would be a waste, I replied, pulling from my bag a postcard of Titians Venus of Urbino and two fashion-magazine tear sheets: a bare-breasted Christy Turlington and a Turlington look-alike in a tight pink dress. I live in Manhattan. Its a chic place; fashion matters here, and to me it really matters. European designers cut small, and I like very fitted, figure-revealing clothes. The trick is to reveal less, not to bare excess cleavage, though clearly I want more to reveal less of. But jugs spilling out uncontrollably, screaming for attentionthats Miami, livin la vida en el string bikini. What about cup size? Hidalgo asked, calmly steering me toward a more fixed means of measurement than urban sartorial differences. Perhaps a C cup? Oh my God! I said. Thats enormous! I wore a C when I was nine months pregnant! Bolting upright, I flashed open my gown: Look, here I am, 5'3", 103 pounds. My bra size is a solid 32A. Hidalgo cleared his throat, averting his eyes and motioning for me to cover up and close my gown. Going up one size, to a B, wont make much of a difference, he said. In my experience, women more often than not wish theyd gone bigger after theyve had the surgery. Were the upper third of my face not Botoxed, I would have been able to arch an eyebrow, conveying my skepticism of breast augmentation. Of the three types of incisionperiareolar, around the nipple; inframammary, under the breast fold; and axillary, under the armI would be the lucky recipient of the latter, the ne plus ultra, as the scars are virtually imperceptible half-inch marks hidden within each armpit. In addition, between the two implant placement sitesthe subglandular, beneath the breast tissue but above the pectoral muscle, or the subpectoral, behind the muscle itselfI qualified for option number two, which would guarantee optimal concealment, minimizing the telltale fraudulence of a too-round, too-firm appearance and thus making for the most natural-looking enhancement. Ultimately, I want to achieve balance and symmetry and proportion, all relative to the individual patients anatomy, Hidalgo concluded. My goal is to please the eye. His final verdict for me: A small C or a full B. On January 18, 2000, with my cup size up for grabs, I lay upon Hidalgos operating table, located in his fully accredited in-office operating room, where an anesthesiologist mainlined my IV and the snooze potion started to drip. Smiling up at my surgeon, I slurred my last words: Rememberrrrr smalllll. But when I awoke several hours later in the blush-pink recovery area, there seemed
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within three years, and though the most common reason is a size change, I belonged to the sliverless than half of one percent who opt to scale down. (Which also made Hidalgos boob-greed theory not so badabing after all.) As my implants were in perfectly good shape, Hidalgo chose a more prudent and expedient procedure than simply replacing them: This time making periareolar incisions around my nipples, he was able to attach a syringe to the teensy two-way valve protruding from the outer shell of each implant in order to withdraw a portion 30 ccof their saline content. On the plus side, the one-inch scars along the bottom curve of my nipples faded nicely, without any sacrifice to my sensitivity, and my bra size ebbed to a full Ban improvement. But my breasts remained uncomfortably taut, still feeling and appearing pumped up. My patient satisfaction level overall: just good enough. But fate wouldnt have it. On April 22, 2003, as I awakened in bed, my right hand fell onto my left breast. The landing felt wrong, the slackened surface creepy. My fingers ran back and forth, searching for something missing: my mound manqu! I bolted from bed, grabbed my phone, ripped off my top, and gaped in the bathroom mirror. Dialing Hidalgos office, a number I knew by heart, I gulped, Emergency, yes! My left breast is g-gone! Within 72 hours, he swapped out both implants, the dud and the not-dead, for a fresh, more diminutive duo. In the recovery room, an O.R. nurse dressed in blue scrubs greeted me, her gloved hand cupping a milky white plastic pancake: my sorry left implant. Holding it aloft, she squeezed; an arc of saline spurted out. Punctures tinier than a pencil point, she declared, turning on her rubber heel. I never got to ask Hidalgo about the puncture because he, anticipating my usual size-centric line of assault and intent on beating me to the punch, announced his arrival by calling out the count: 175 cc! Size and fill: both 175! And third times the charm! My newbie boobs were just right. Despite the funny math, my new 175 cc implantsas compared to my 170-cc-by-depletion setwere truly a sigh smaller, the sweetest sigh! My 34Bs were so perfect that I couldnt conceive of my faux-credible breasts as other than rightfully my own, my figure reconfigured into the shape that now seemed always meant for me. Besides, I had racked up enough surgical redos between my reduction and my premature deflation that I figured my cleavage should finally be in the clear, its shelf life extending well beyond the typical 10 years. Id go to my
grave with my ancient falsies pertly afloat in their vintage 175 cc. So it was truly the bitterest woe when my right implant broke open that doomful Sunday dawn last May. Am I a statistical anomaly? I asked Hidalgo, referring to my two deflations and a size changenecessitating, after factoring in my imminent surgical fix, a total of four procedures over the course of one decade. Youre skewed toward having more issues than most, Hidalgo answered. Sometimes its just the luck of the draw. But the luckless demanded a reason, so Hidalgo enlightened me about the breast implants insidious foe: fold flaw. A crease sneaks up the implants outer shell, its crimped edges rubbing together as a womans body moves, eventually wearing a hole in the envelope. Accordingly, an underfilled implant and possibly even one filled to normal capacity are most vulnerable to fold flaw and deflation. The best defense may be an overfilled sac. Pausing to peruse my tattered inch-thick medical folder, Hidalgo then conjectured a few causal connections. Theres no way to know for sure, but perhaps my deflation in 2003 stemmed from my first reoperation back in 2001, when he removed the 30 cc of saline. And my currently collapsed right implant might have been averted seven years ago had he added a touch more saline to my (impeccable!) 175 cc. As for my currently cockeyed poitrine, he proposed changing both implants (as my not-yetkaput lefty had done enough time), though hed stick to my present sizebut how bout topping off the new set with an extra 20 cc of saline, just to play it safe? No way. I loved my breasts the way they were. I want them exactly the same, saline implants, just like before. Then silicone implants might be a better option, he countered. Theyve been FDAcleared since 2006 and are more popular today than saline. Theyre now filled with Jell-Olike silicone called cohesive gel. This material is expected to remain inside the shell if it ruptures and not migrate out of the implant site. Never! I snapped, still leery of the stuff. All righty, thensaline, just as before, Hidalgo noted, scribbling on my chart before bolting out the door. Despite my urgent predicament, the soonest he could schedule my surgery was at the end of June, a full four weeks away. I would have to sweat out the wait with my no-longer-identical twins, my tipsy twosomeone tanked up, the other passed out. Their disreputable state demanded immedi-
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ate concealment, which left me in complete dishabille. I had a closet full of clothes, but suddenly nothing to wearnothing sufficiently figure-forgiving, that is. Intermix was only three blocks from my apartment. However, between the warm weather and my makeshift burka of layered garments, I arrived with perspiration pouring from my every pore. Can I help you? asked a pretty young saleswoman. I need casual, for everyday, but I cant show off my chest, you see, theres a problem, one of my boobs, is um. A mastectomy? she whispered. Yikes, did she really say the M-word? Cause the other day, I helped a woman whod just had one, so I understand. To set her straight, I went into morbid
my other one tugged, pulled, and dragged. Never in sync, it lagged behind for a split second, like a Looney Tunes character who runs off a cliff and hangs in midair before looking down: Oopstoo late! Except it wasnt too late for me. Instead of a redo, I could get an undohave my implants totally taken out. Did I really need them anymore? In the 10 years since my original surgery, my lifestyle had taken a 180-degree turnfor the better. My husband, my young love during my coed coming-of-age, was now the coming-intomiddle-age love of my life. Never divorced, we eventually reconciled and since September 2008 had been living together in a new place, our romance having endured more than a few saline-implant life spans. Either way, augmented or unaugmented, I could
My 34Bs were so perfect; my figure reconfigured into what now seemed always meant for me.
detail about my deflation, which moved her to hunt down a cute Stella McCartney tunic and, for extra coverage, a drapey Helmut Lang cardigan. I bought them both, saying goodbye with a smile, and yet I was profoundly shaken and sobered. I now recognized my ordeal for what it was: a draga transient inconvenience, not a dire diagnosis (thank you, God, over and over and over). The fix would come soon enough, but meanwhile there was no taking my good health for granted. Were my priorities shifting? To me, physical beauty and well-being are inextricably entwined, yet now their antagonism was all too clear. At what point do vanity and health conflict? The monthlong surgery delay also gave me sufficient time to reappraise my tiny breast. Without realizing it, Id started to clasp one hand over the tender mound of shrunken tissue, finding it cozy to the touch. Putting on a bra, I would take a minute to appraise my deflated breast, its shy slope pitifully sheepish-looking within the cups sturdy support structure. However, it wasnt long before I had bonded with my little bundle. She was darling, reallyrounder and fuller than what Nature had originally furnished after years of being puffed out by an implant, but without any sag or droop. Best of all, in ballet class my booblette bounced right along with me, while count on him, ever steady, ever strong, and always the one to keep me laughing. My mind ranged back to the decade just past. Was it a delusion that hooters held hypnotic powers? That implants, however sublimely crafted, could bewitch an eligible bachelor into a committed relationship? The truth was, having bigger breasts failed to alter my sense of femininityand nothing torrid, no stirring of passions or slaying of hearts, ever came of my ta-tas. My imitations did convince me that femininity remains mysterious, but not because the genuine goodsgobs of nubile flesh, fleetingly gravity-defying and therefore completely captivatingare magically charged. Rather, it is the mercurialness of being a woman, which for me has proven to be ever-shifting with age and circumstance. The extra curves could be accoutrements or encumbrances, while internally, I struggled for a delicate balance, though it felt more like a raging battle, between vulnerability and strength, needing and nurturing, selflove and all the other loves. In the end, boobs mattered beans. That said, once my figure was refitted with the right-size implants, they were nothing less than transforming, rendering my anatomy, from head to toe, from boob to butt, immaculately proportioned (if I do
say so myself). This harmony granted a quiet pardon to my plastic parts. In fact, my breasts failed to receive male flattery for their own sake, as separate and secondary sex signifiers; instead, the reception from men was most often limited to two tremendously welcome words: Great body. Talk about wish fulfillment. My joy beyond measure is dressing. The experience of slipping on any Prada silhouette hugger, or a Dolce dcollet-gusher, or something nipped and tucked by Dior, or Vuitton or, most of all, Chanel: Forgive my Rachel Zoe rip-off, but really, I die ! As the upcoming surgery stared me down, I grew more conflicted daily between my erstwhile ersatz B cups and the notion of a natural, worry-free, why-bother-with-abra insouciance. With 48 hours to go until O.R. time, I had a last-minute mammogram. After the X-rays and the ultrasound, I met with my radiologist, who was ready to send me off, having already determined my breast tissue to be fine. But my mouth had a mind of its own, and despite my expectation of her veto, I dumped out my dilemma. Get the implants replaced, she advised, without hesitation. I think youll be sorry if you dont. You already have a body image based on your breasts with implants. Youll probably miss them. Are your boobs real? I asked, fishing for the only seemingly plausible explanation for her response. Yeah, of course! And yours are all clear. Good luck with your surgery. And that was that. On June 24, Hidalgo performed the big overhaul. And man, did I ever regret it! If only for the next 10 days, it was a bitch of a recovery. My right breast, the deflated one, was especially painful and swollen. Cruel though it was, I was also forced to reflect on the potential reality of another future surgery; faced with a 45-day deadline for enrolling in Mentors Enhanced Advantage Limited Warranty, I hastily bankrolled my boobs. And six weeks later, after the mess of my convalescence faded in a narcotic mist of memory, my breasts emerged like deuces ready to roll. I felt like a snappy roadster, racing with the top down, the wind rushing over my revved-up body, vanity plates boasting ALL MINE. Holy smokin rubber, what a ride! I sped along to the beeping of car hornshonking and tooting for a tootsie, no matter the mileage under her belt, full of moxie and shamelessly spanking her set. So totally next-level, right? Real beauts, fresh from the package but still as fine as ever, this happy pair of hello-fellas, always raring for an encore. So, one more time, for the ladies, please, may I present my latest runaway hits: my two new breasts!
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myself well inside my work. But now my hope of never having to get in anybodys face and hustle seems a dying dream. Unemployment and underemployment are hovering at 10 and 19 percent, respectively; while I was once in a small minority, today more than 30 percent of workers are freelancers, competing for evershorter short-term gigs. And the management gurus keep telling us we must build our personal brandspinpoint our core competencies, work up high-concept selfpromotional pitches detailing our accomplishments, and leverage our brands profit potential by talking ourselves up any chance we getand (whether were employed, wanting to be employed, or wanting to be better employed) cheerfully spread the good news about ourselves through aggressive social media networking. Broadcasting my brand (whatever it might be) to build a following is a pesky detail I always left to clever cover-line writers and dear readers recommending my articles to friends. Ive signed on to blog for ELLE.com and another website (let the selfpromo commence!) on a mix of subjects, including books, design, parenting, and politics. And I know that my survival online will depend on how much traffic I can drive to my posts. But being a ham-fisted Facebooker and a barely there Twitterer, whose inaugural tweet seems to have discouraged even my real friends from following me, I feel uneasy onlineunsure of my voice, unclear on what I can add to the collective conversation in 140 characters, and dreading the moment I have to come right out and ask already info-soused friends to turn their attentions to me. So Im stuck at square one, staring in the mirror, holloweyed, wondering, Who am I? What is my brand? And how can I toot my own horn pimp my damn brandwithout feeling like grandstander? First up, looking for some brass-tacks technical help crafting the new Lou campaign, I call Dan Schawbel, the 27-year-old wunderkind author of Me 2.0, a guide to personal branding that, he says, isnt just a top-selling business book in Japan but a best-seller among all books there. I discovered Schawbel by googling personal branding and finding his website at the top of the lista search-engine hack that he orchestrated by billing himself the personal branding spokesperson for Generation Y, and signing off every post on someone elses blog (a great way to let already famous people know youre an admiring fan, he says) with a link back to his own site. In this way, his namesnuggled against the popular search phrase personal branding got steadily bandied about, and he landed
TWEET DREAMS
When every Facebook update is a business opportunity, one shy girl learns how to sell herself without selling her soul. By Louisa Kamps
dont want to sell anything bought or processed, or buy anything sold or processed, or process anything sold, bought, or processed. You know, as a career. So declared Lloyd Dobler, John Cusacks indelible high school refusenik in 1989s Say Anything, and while too shy to punctuate the sentiment with a fingerlessgloved fist pump myself, I was right there with him. As a soon-to-be college
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grad pondering my own career path, I figured no one could accuse me of pushing a product (a three-dimensional one, anyway) if I became a writeras long as I concentrated on news and ideas that I thought could be genuinely helpful to people, I could sleep nights. Andbonus, for a homebody with many divergent interests and a fear of being seen as a horn-blower I could avoid the madness of the marketplace and office politics alike by tucking
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essence of manufacturing desire. You have to believe that your mission statement has value and project it with confidence. We may have been told in society that doing that is selfish. But in fact, if your vision is positive and proactive, then these are very good things to telegraph. When he was on his diet, Arnell regularly e-mailed updates on his progress, and, overwhelmingly, his friends responded by cheering him on. People have good hearts. They dont always know how to help you. But when you define it for them, they come running to support you. Everybody needs a metaphor for the focus and discipline they want to own and portray, Arnell says, and for him that symbol has becomeyou got itan orange. Im still struggling to find my own hook, but I ask Arnell what he thinks of the idea of putting a picture of a carved wooden rabbita family heirloom from my beloved late uncle whose weirdly catholic tastes, zooming from Zappa to Schubert, helped shape my ownup on my Twitter page to start. Could a rabbitwhich I also see as a metaphor for my writing career, in which Ive hopped from subject to subject, sometimes nervously, sometimes joyfully, but always juiced by some core animal energybecome a kind of touchstone, a talisman reminding me, at least, to aim high and keep hoppin? Everybody likes oranges, everyone likes a rabbit! Put up pictures of famous rabbits! Be known as the woman who knows rabbits! Arnell says. Become the authority, and all of a sudden people will think of you as the bunny, the rabbitsomeone who jumps, someone with power, someone who is cute! Gulp. That thought, combined with skepticism about the financial benefits of jumping on the branding bandwagon, sends me down a new rabbit hole. Colleagues and friends who have tried, more and less stealthily, to use social media to promote themselves and their wares tell me theyve gotten some kickback from their efforts (a couple of hundred books sold, a gang of friends cheering them on from the bar at a rock show, a few new clients) but nothing earth-shattering. Business is just moving slow. But talking to career coach Peggy Klaus, I finally see how to talk about myself and what I have to offer (call it positioning, if you must) in a way that doesnt tie me up in knots. When I first started reading about personal branding, I thought it was bullshit, actuallyjust a way for some consultants to make a quick buck, says Klaus, the author of The Hard Truth About Soft Skills: Workplace Lessons Smart People Wish Theyd Learned Sooner. But then I did a lot more reading and research
his gig consulting Fortune 500 companies on social media marketing. Schawbel had googled me, too, and seems almost mystified by what he had foundor, more precisely, had failed to find. He saw links to stories Id written, but no website of my own archiving all of my work. His remedy: Reserve my domain name today for a future site, which can serve as a rsum and become the vital portal for expanding my own brand. Then, get on LinkedIn (something Ive long resisted, thinking my CV, like fancy underwear, should be shared only with select company) and do somethingfast about my Twitter account. Theres, like, nothing here. No picture, no bio, he says, adding beseechingly, You have to think of yourself as a small business. Finally, Schawbel gives me the advice he gives everybody: Find a single subject and make it my stock-in-trade on the Internet by posting on it regularly. That wayby giving value to readers, providing free content roughly 90 percent of the time (Schawbel spends two hours each day reading business articles, retweeting the best, and offering other thoughts to his more than 90,000 Twitter followers) no one will begrudge my sending out notices directly promoting my own work (in my case, writing) the other 10. You could become a writing teacher! That would give you more career and freelance opportunities, but it would not come off like youre looking for new opportunities. Its an indirect way of saying, on some level, I know what Im doing, and you should hire me. Some scientists and singers I admire write on their websites about their career paths and other extracurricular interests, Ive noticed, and its a generous sideline service they provide. But while I could see myself occasionally writing for the aspiring-writer audience Schawbel envisions, that territory, alas, just doesnt jazz me enough to claim it as my full-timeor 90-percent-of-thetimeturf on the Internet. Pondering a new dilemmahow to find a raison dtre for my social media networking that wont feel like a Potemkin frontI am glad to hear from Peter Arnell. The brand maven behind DKNYs iconic black-and-white photo campaigns, Arnell has just published a book called Shift: How to Reinvent Your Business, Your Career, and Your Personal Brand , in which he describes dropping 256 pounds to become a fitter, calmer version of himself (though presumably still a bit batty about foodhe keeps the weight off by eating 50 oranges a day). Arnell is in Italy overseeing a sports-car relaunch, and barking through a grainy BlackBerry connection, he gets right to the
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION Continued The dose of BOTOX Cosmetic is not the same as, or comparable to, another botulinum toxin product. Serious and or immediate allergic reactions have been reported. These reactions include itchy rash, swelling, and shortness of breath. Tell your doctor or get medical help right away if you experience any such symptoms, further injection of BOTOX Cosmetic should be discontinued. Do not take BOTOX Cosmetic if you: are allergic to any of the ingredients in BOTOX Cosmetic (see Medication Guide for ingredients); had an allergic reaction to any other botulinum toxin product such as Myobloc or Dysport; have a skin infection at the planned injection site. Tell your doctor about all your muscle or nerve conditions such as amyotrophic lateral sclerosis [ALS or Lou Gehrigs disease], myasthenia gravis or Lambert-Eaton syndrome as you may be at increased risk of serious side effects including severe dysphagia (difculty swallowing) and respiratory compromise (difculty breathing) from typical doses of BOTOX Cosmetic. Tell your doctor about all your medical conditions, including if you have: plans to have surgery; had surgery on your face; weakness of forehead muscles, such as trouble raising your eyebrows; drooping eyelids; any other abnormal facial change; are pregnant or plan to become pregnant (It is not known if BOTOX Cosmetic can harm your unborn baby); are breast-feeding or plan to breastfeed (It is not known if BOTOX Cosmetic passes into breast milk). Tell your doctor about all the medicines you take, including prescription and nonprescription medicines, vitamins, and herbal products. BOTOX Cosmetic may cause loss of strength or general muscle weakness, or vision problems. If this happens, do not drive a car, operate machinery, or do other dangerous activities. Other side effects of BOTOX Cosmetic include: dry mouth, discomfort or pain at the injection site, tiredness, headache, neck pain, and eye problems: double vision, blurred vision, decreased eyesight, drooping eyelids, swelling of your eyelids, and dry eyes. For more information refer to the Medication Guide or talk with your doctor. You are encouraged to report negative side effects of prescription drugs to the FDA. Visit www.fda.gov/medwatch, or call 1-800-FDA-1088. Please refer to full Medication Guide on the following page.
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Results may vary. 8 out of 10 women achieved clinically signicant results at day 30 in clinical trials.
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION BOTOX Cosmetic may cause serious side effects that can be life threatening. Call your doctor or get medical help right away if you have any of these problems any time (hours to weeks) after injection of BOTOX Cosmetic: Problems swallowing, speaking, or breathing, due to weakening of associated muscles, can be severe and result in loss of life. You are at the highest risk if these problems are pre-existing before injection. Swallowing problems may last for several months. Spread of toxin effects. The effect of botulinum toxin may affect areas away from the injection site and cause serious symptoms including: loss of strength and all-over muscle weakness, double vision, blurred vision and drooping eyelids, hoarseness or change or loss of voice (dysphonia), trouble saying words clearly (dysarthria), loss of bladder control, trouble breathing, trouble swallowing. There has not been a conrmed serious case of spread of toxin effect when BOTOX Cosmetic has been used at the recommended dose to treat frown lines. See adjacent page for additional safety information associated with BOTOX Cosmetic
BotoxCosmetic.com
MEDICATION GUIDE BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic (Boe-tox) (onabotulinumtoxinA) for Injection
Read the Medication Guide that comes with BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic before you start using it and each time it is given to you. There may be new information. This information does not take the place of talking with your doctor about your medical condition or your treatment. You should share this information with your family members and caregivers. What is the most important information I should know about BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic? BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic may cause serious side effects that can be life threatening. Call your doctor or get medical help right away if you have any of these problems after treatment with BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic: Problems swallowing, speaking, or breathing. These problems can happen hours to weeks after an injection of BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic usually because the muscles that you use to breathe and swallow can become weak after the injection. Death can happen as a complication if you have severe problems with swallowing or breathing after treatment with BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic. People with certain breathing problems may need to use muscles in their neck to help them breathe. These patients may be at greater risk for serious breathing problems with BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic. Swallowing problems may last for several months. People who cannot swallow well may need a feeding tube to receive food and water. If swallowing problems are severe, food or liquids may go into your lungs. People who already have swallowing or breathing problems before receiving BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic have the highest risk of getting these problems. Spread of toxin effects. In some cases, the effect of botulinum toxin may affect areas of the body away from the injection site and cause symptoms of a serious condition called botulism. The symptoms of botulism include: loss of strength and muscle weakness all over the body double vision blurred vision and drooping eyelids hoarseness or change or loss of voice (dysphonia) trouble saying words clearly (dysarthria) loss of bladder control trouble breathing trouble swallowing These symptoms can happen hours to weeks after you receive an injection of BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic. These problems could make it unsafe for you to drive a car or do other dangerous activities. See What should I avoid while receiving BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic? There has not been a conrmed serious case of spread of toxin effect away from the injection site when BOTOX has been used at the recommended dose to treat severe underarm sweating, blepharospasm, or strabismus, or when BOTOX Cosmetic has been used at the recommended dose to treat frown lines. What are BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic? BOTOX is a prescription medicine that is injected into muscles and used: to treat increased muscle stiffness in elbow, wrist, and nger muscles in adults with upper limb spasticity. to treat the abnormal head position and neck pain that happens with cervical dystonia (CD) in adults. to treat certain types of eye muscle problems (strabismus) or abnormal spasm of the eyelids (blepharospasm) in people 12 years and older. BOTOX is also injected into the skin to treat the symptoms of severe underarm sweating (severe primary axillary hyperhidrosis) when medicines used on the skin (topical) do not work well enough. BOTOX Cosmetic is a prescription medicine that is injected into muscles and used to improve the look of moderate to severe frown lines between the eyebrows (glabellar lines) in adults younger than 65 years of age for a short period of time (temporary). It is not known whether BOTOX is safe or effective in children younger than: 18 years of age for treatment of spasticity 16 years of age for treatment of cervical dystonia 18 years of age for treatment of hyperhidrosis 12 years of age for treatment of strabismus or blepharospasm BOTOX Cosmetic is not recommended for use in children younger than 18 years of age. It is not known whether BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic are safe or effective for other types of muscle spasms or for severe sweating anywhere other than your armpits. Who should not take BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic? Do not take BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic if you: are allergic to any of the ingredients in BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic. See the end of this Medication Guide for a list of ingredients in BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic. had an allergic reaction to any other botulinum toxin product such as Myobloc or Dysport have a skin infection at the planned injection site What should I tell my doctor before taking BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic? Tell your doctor about all your medical conditions, including if you have: a disease that affects your muscles and nerves (such as amyotrophic lateral sclerosis [ALS or Lou Gehrigs disease], myasthenia gravis or LambertEaton syndrome). See What is the most important information I should know about BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic? allergies to any botulinum toxin product had any side effect from any botulinum toxin product in the past a breathing problem, such as asthma or emphysema swallowing problems bleeding problems plans to have surgery had surgery on your face weakness of your forehead muscles, such as trouble raising your eyebrows drooping eyelids any other change in the way your face normally looks are pregnant or plan to become pregnant. It is not known if BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic can harm your unborn baby. are breast-feeding or plan to breast-feed. It is not known if BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic passes into breast milk. Tell your doctor about all the medicines you take, including prescription and nonprescription medicines, vitamins, and herbal products. Using BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic with certain other medicines may cause serious side effects. Do not start any new medicines until you have told your doctor that you have received BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic in the past. Especially tell your doctor if you: have received any other botulinum toxin product in the last four months have received injections of botulinum toxin, such as Myobloc (rimabotulinumtoxinB) or Dysport (abobotulinumtoxinA) in the past. Be sure your doctor knows exactly which product you received. have recently received an antibiotic by injection take muscle relaxants take an allergy or cold medicine take a sleep medicine Ask your doctor if you are not sure if your medicine is one that is listed above. Know the medicines you take. Keep a list of your medicines with you to show your doctor and pharmacist each time you get a new medicine. How should I take BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic? BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic is an injection that your doctor will give you. BOTOX is injected into your affected muscles or skin. BOTOX Cosmetic is injected into your affected muscles. Your doctor may change your dose of BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic, until you and your doctor nd the best dose for you. What should I avoid while taking BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic? BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic may cause loss of strength or general muscle weakness, or vision problems within hours to weeks of taking BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic. If this happens, do not drive a car, operate machinery, or do other dangerous activities. See What is the most important information I should know about BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic? What are the possible side effects of BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic? BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic can cause serious side effects. See What is the most important information I should know about BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic? Other side effects of BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic include: dry mouth discomfort or pain at the injection site tiredness headache neck pain eye problems: double vision, blurred vision, decreased eyesight, drooping eyelids, swelling of your eyelids, and dry eyes. allergic reactions. Symptoms of an allergic reaction to BOTOX or BOTOX Cosmetic may include: itching, rash, red itchy welts, wheezing, asthma symptoms, or dizziness or feeling faint. Tell your doctor or get medical help right away if you are wheezing or have asthma symptoms, or if you become dizzy or faint. Tell your doctor if you have any side effect that bothers you or that does not go away. These are not all the possible side effects of BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic. For more information, ask your doctor or pharmacist. Call your doctor for medical advice about side effects. You may report side effects to FDA at 1-800-FDA-1088. General information about BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic: Medicines are sometimes prescribed for purposes other than those listed in a Medication Guide. This Medication Guide summarizes the most important information about BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic. If you would like more information, talk with your doctor. You can ask your doctor or pharmacist for information about BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic that is written for healthcare professionals. For more information about BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic call Allergan at 1-800-433-8871 or go to www.botox.com. What are the ingredients in BOTOX and BOTOX Cosmetic? Active ingredient: botulinum toxin type A Inactive ingredients: human albumin and sodium chloride Issued: 03/2010 This Medication Guide has been approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Manufactured by: Allergan Pharmaceuticals Ireland a subsidiary of: Allergan, Inc. 2525 Dupont Dr., Irvine, CA 92612 2010 Allergan, Inc. mark owned by Allergan, Inc. U.S. Patents 6,974,578; 6,683,049; and 6,896,886 Myobloc is a registered trademark of Solstice Neurosciences, Inc. Dysport is a registered trademark of Ipsen Biopharm Limited Company. 72284US11B APC24AS10
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into it, and I absolutely believe in it. We all have different fingerprints, different DNA, and we have to learn to hone and develop these qualities and put them out on the market. In the course of a long conversation, I tell Klaus many things: about my midwesternbred fear of sounding like a braggart if I describe my successes, my peripatetic work habits that seem like a liability in this age of nichification, my occasional need for a hard kick in the ass in order to go do something big and scary, my tender hopes of staying afloat as a writer when my trade is taking so many hits. Those last two bits in particular, Im thinking, I need to compartmentalize somewhere well away from my shiny personal brand, so these darker admissions dont tarnish my image. But rather than dream up some titanium-plated, everpretty avatar for myself and put this creature out to market, Klaus thinks all I really need to do is be brave, proud, and honest about where Ive been and where Id still like to go. She says I probably wont ever lose that little nugget of self-doubt thats historically kept me (and so many women) from self-promoting (Arianna Huffington calls it the obnoxious roommate in her head, she tells me), but it will get smaller with time. I ask Klaus to propose a brand statement for me. After pausing to think, she says, with conviction and pitched-justright pride in her voice, In a world of experts, I am happy to call myself a generalist. With that wordhappy I feel something big clicking back into place: my early formed, Dobler-ish faith and understanding that I can really only succeed in what I do if Im pumped, passionately pursuing my many interests and not getting too jangled by the machinations of the marketplace. Yes, these days, we all have to step up the self-promo. But diving back into actual workas opposed to worrying about what professional pose to strike, wondering whether my tweets will reflect well on my brandI realize Ill only have a product I can hawk unapologetically if this, the work itself, is the ball Ive got my eye on 99 percent of the time. From there, I find it suddenly much easier to talk up my ideas, and over the coming weeks I land two new assignments by picking up the good old phoneI know, so legacy of me! and pitching stories directly to editors. Mark Zuckerberg, Facebooks 26-year-old founder, might have some messianic hope that his site will replace every other form of human communication. But my brand and Iwe dont have the time (or chops) to crack wise on the Internet on the off chance someone doing some hiring will be reading. Weve got real work to do.
BIG BUSINESS
These corporate branding vets transform companies. Now they tell you how to transform yourself
David Takeuchi, CEO, Bedrock Brands CLIENTS: Chevron, Wells Fargo, AAA Companies, technologies, products, and servicestheyre always changing. Its the same with people. But our true character never changes. Look at Apple constantly growing and coming out with new products, but always living up to the brands signature points. Thats how we should be: constantly refreshing ourselves but maintaining who we are.
Jez Frampton, Global CEO, Interbrand At the end of the day, you want to be hired, not just known. If youre an aspiring investment banker, dont dress in nightclub attire. Youre standing out, but not in a way thats relevant. You dont want to look mad, waving from the fringes. You want to position yourself where you are seen and appreciatedwhere you obviously have the right skills for the job.
David Tyreman, Brand consultant, author of World Famous: How to Give Your Business a Kick-Ass Brand Identity CLIENTS: Polo Ralph Lauren, Guess, Nike Youd be blown away by the amount of money people spend to have logos designed. Most people think, Ive got a brand, look: Ive got a logo. No, youve got a picture. A brand is what you mean to people. For that you need to have a brand identitywho you are, what you stand for, and how you differentiate yourself. Fernando Music, Cofounder, The Rooster Design Group CLIENTS: New Yorks Bryant Park and the High Line Park, IFC Entertainment People now have their personal brands and also work for companies. Even at the lowest level, kids on their blogs think, Does this choicethis job, this person Im datingreflect my brand? The idea that youll work for a company and theyll take care of you for lifethat train has left the station. You have to take care of yourself.NOJAN AMINOSHAREI
DANIA RAMIREZ
2010 P&G.
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So goes the female body. Jane Fondathe formidable actress, activist, and serial wifemade women everywhere want to don a leotard in their living rooms. Now 72, she wants to help us continue our metamorphosis spiritually, sexually, and, yes, physically. By Meredith Bryan
Shes in New York for a screening, ensconced at the Peninsula Hotel, Louis Vuitton luggage strewn asunder, her little dog, Tulea, yapping. She seems pert and charged despite working through the previous night filming Peace, Love and Misunderstanding in Woodstock, New York, with Catherine Keener. (Hilariously, shes cast as a pot-smoking hippie grandma who protests the Iraq war every Saturday on the town greenbut the character has a sense of humor about it, Fonda says.) Pitched forward on the couch with knees spread, her posture conjuring an extremely skinny football coach, she attacks each question with thoughtful intensity, gesticulating wildly. She eats throughout our interview, lobbing pistachios into her mouth and chewing on pieces of dried apricot from
hen Jane Fonda gets up to collect her dry cleaning at the door, sashaying regally like a movie star from another time, her glossy, expensivelooking black tracksuit hugs her backside like Saran wrap. I check out her ass; its hot. Not hot for a septuagenarian grandmother with knee and hip replacements, or new fenders and hubcaps, as she calls themjust hot. Fondas booming, throaty voice suggests shes spent the past 30 years smoking a pack a day instead of selling 13 million aerobics tapes, but the rest of her has resisted gravity, or at least, with effort and a few nips and tucks, denied it any major victories.
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Original Jane Fonda Workout : Steve Schapiro/Corbis; Klute : courtesy of the Everett Collection; new workout: Matthew Rolston
AS GOES JANE
an elegant spread of chocolates on the coffee table. Possessing none of the usual celebrity interview affectations, she doesnt try to dodge the question when I ask her about her recent plastic surgery. I wish I was brave enough to let it all hang out, but Im not, she admits, putting back a generous swig of Fiji water, then indicating with a few quick gestures that her most recent cosmetic procedures removed the bags from under her eyes and the sag from under her chin. It wasnt so much that I wanted to look young, she clarifies; I was tired of always catching myself in a window and looking like I was exhausted when I felt fine! Its jarring to see Fonda right in front of me, all that outsize history, legend, and energy crammed into this tiny fortress of a body. Her eyes, which always dominated her face, making her iconic early characters such as Klute s Bree Daniels and the 60s busty space heroine Barbarella look innocent and alarmed, have dimmed somewhat: Today theyre penetrating, knowing, and ever so slightly amused. Fonda isnt here to chat; shes here to inform. Through many incarnations, from antiwar protester to exercise guru, she has always liked to share what she knows. And lately, its that we could be going about this whole aging thing a lot better. Were living 30 years longer than our grandparents did, she tells me. But until recently, weve been stuck on that old paradigm, that age is pathology, age is disease.
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From left: Fonda as Bree Daniels in Klute (1971), the role that won her a Best Actress Oscar; as secretary-with-avengeance Judy Bernly in Nine to Five (1980); as kooky Corie Bratter in Neil Simons Barefoot in the Park (1967)
I wish I was brave enough to let it all hang out, but Im not. I was tired of catching myself in a window and looking exhausted when I felt fine!
Fonda has a plan about how to reshape our stale assumptions about getting older. Her new series of low-impact workout DVDs, Prime Time Fit & Strong and Prime Time Walk-Out, set to hit shelves on November 30, is meant to help men and women over 50 resist going gentlyor rather going soft into that good night. The idea for the DVDs first struck her while writing a new book about the life span, a follow-up to her best-selling 2005 autobiography, My Life So Far (penned without ghostwriters, virtually unheard of in celebrity publishing). I studied a lot about exercise and the aging body, Fonda says, tearing into a piece of dried apricot. And I realized that staying physically active is probably the most important thing to do if you want to age successfully. It doesnt have to be marathon running, but a certain amount of physical activity that includes flexibility, stretching, muscle mass toning. I decided, Well, I guess nows the time to get back into the fitness biz! Fondas return to exercise proselytizing, in her telling, has a whiff of divine imperative; she feels compelled by the blessing and burden of her knowledge and life experience to coach the rest of us along. Of course, as in the early 80s, when she got a generation of women doing leg lifts in the living room and toned up the female body ideal for the first time in modern history, we could use some help. As Fonda sees it, were dying
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from preventable diseases, spending our final years immobile in nursing homes. Her new workouts arent suggesting anything revolutionaryjust plenty of walking, some basic standing exercises, hand weights, and eating right (for herself, this means something dark green every day and abstaining from dessert). Do you know that every year, one in three people over 65 fall, and this can lead to potentially crippling, even fatal fractures? she asks in one of the DVDs, demonstrating a balance exercise in mauve yoga pants and matching top, a thick black belt cinching her teeny waist. She remains the best advertisement for her own program, agile and slender, doing free weights alone in a well-appointed living room, steadying herself on a Lucite chair. Her blunt determination is still palpable, but for the most part shes preaching rigorous practicality, aiming these new workouts squarely at her own demographic, whose conditioning needs are not always met by the current fare. Hence her reference in one of the routines to toning the slackening pubococcygeus (pew-ba-cocka-gee-us ) muscle with Kegels, which can apparently reduce incontinence enormously, as well ascue classic Fondaenhance sexual pleasure. Fonda has always had a knack, intentional or not, for intuiting and becoming exactly what the moment demands. Shes navigated the past 60 years like a twentieth-century
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didnt stop there: She continued to release exercise videos after her marriage to media mogul Ted Turner in 1991 (she divorced Hayden in 1990), eventually retiring from her career as an aerobics queen and actor in the mid-90s to overcome her fear of real intimacy. Whether she meant it to or not, Fondas focus on her marriage gelled with larger cultural trends, representing a stark break with the flashy selfishness and rampant wealth accumulation of the 80s (never mind that shed married a billionaire). When she divorced Turner in 2001, it was because shed become re-embodied at the age of 62 and finally realized she didnt need a man to complete her. It was an extremely spiritual feeling, she tells me. It was at this point, she says, that she began living in that famous body, not up in her head. I ask her how life changed for her after this. You dont stress as much, she says. I think you become more talented if you happen to toil in the artistic vineyard. Ironically, just as she rebrands herself as a new icon of aging, Fondas also cultivating another niche, becoming a badass cultural hero to a younger generation raised on benign, voiceless, and strangely interchangeable Hollywood stars. Shes part Che Guevara, part Marlene Dietrich, a gorgeous rebel and a symbol ripe for the rediscovery (regardless whether you agree with or even know what she was rebelling against back in the day). Currently, shes even selling T-shirts and clutches on her website imprinted with her 1971 mug shot, taken when she was arrested at the Cleveland airport during her antiwar-activist days and stripped of numerous suspect pill bottles that turned out to contain vitamins. Im throwing a fist, she tells me, of the mug shot. You know, power to the people! And then theres a story I heard about Fonda from a former employee of her good friend Eve Ensler, author of The Vagina Monologues. Several years ago, Fonda was reading in bed at her ranch in New Mexico, when her dog let out a howl. Fondas tiny grandson was sleeping in a crib in the corner, so she left the room to investigate. When she returned, a brown bear was lumbering across the room toward the crib. I became huge and roared, she says to me with all the flourish of ordering a coffee at Starbucks. She explains that she opened her robe wide in order to project heft. And that the poor beast actually stopped dead in his tracks and peed on the rug before retreating out the sliding glass door. Which made me furious, Fonda says, annoyed. Its easy to take this as the ultimate Fonda parable: She could always make her body whatever she wanted it to be, after all. Whether or not you buy Fondas philos-
ophy on navigating those golden years, one things for certain: Her version of 72 is enviable. Instead of slowing her down, age has sped her up. Fondas film career is flourishing; in addition to Misunderstanding, slated for release in 2011, she just completed a French film, Et Si On Vivait Tous Ensemble, and shes set to reprise her role in Moises Kaufmans 33 Variations next year in L.A. Recently, she wrote on her blog about falling in love at the age of 71 with Richard Perry, the legendary music producer. Her friend Carrie Fisher set them up on a date in L.A. right after Fondas knee replacement last year. I went to get a new knee and ended up with a new knee and a new lover! Fonda exclaims. She has sold her condo in Atlanta, her adopted hometown since her divorce from Turner in 2001, and is now shacked up with Perry in L.A., living out of her suitcase, all her possessions in storage. She says she is more capable of intimacy than ever before. And he is very capable, she adds, suggestively. (Fonda makes it known on her blog that shes still enjoying an active sex lifeposting pictures of her former condo in Atlanta, she notes a mirror under the canopy of her bed.) She explains that she prefers to think of this later part of lifewhat she calls the Third Actas a physical, spiritual, and social culmination rather than a long slide and that relationships should be viewed with a certain understanding only attained by living as long as she has. Im standing on my own two feet, she says. Im individuated, is the psychological word for it. Could I be fluffed up and made better in many ways by my relationships? Sure. But I am who I am. And it took me a long time to get there. Always stressing spiritual health and consciousness alongside body conditioning, Fonda, who has spent the past decade engaged in religious searching (shes a Christian with a small c who also studies Buddhism), is offering herself as sage to a generation of aging boomers as they live this gift of years their grandparents never had, showing them how to achieve depth, meaning, transcendence, and, ultimately, peace with the thought of ones own end. Ive spent a lot of time in Mexico, and in Mexican culture they embrace death, Fonda explains. On All Saints Day they sit on their ancestors graves and they drink and they laugh. Thats how to do it. To know its coming, to try to understand. Youre shortchanging yourself in life if you dont countenance your mortality. Toned, embodied, sexually liberated, putting back a few cold ones in the cemeterythe path Fondas blazing isnt necessarily a practical choice, but then, neither were leg warmers.
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Well arranged: Miller by the Donald Baechler painting that motivated the party; place cards; a George Nelson sofa with skull cushion
ts fall, but forget about Thanksgiving. How about a Day of the Dead party, the first and second day of November, when, in Mexico, revelers parade from door to door swilling tequila, then meet at graveyards at midnight to celebrate the departed. Its just the sort of overthe-top theme party that fashion designer Nicole Miller takes on as an endorphinous challenge. You may know Miller as the pixieish, red-haired powerhouse who perfected the body-conscious cocktail dress back in the 80s and novelty-print silk ties, then grew her company into what it is todaya multimillion-dollar lifestyle brand. Her hold on form-flattering dresses remains, and shes mastered the elegant staple separate; all-ages customers, from Anjelica Huston to Beyonc Knowles, flock to her for stress-free eventwear. But if she hadnt channeled prt--porter, she could easily have wound up a Martha Stewart-y guru. Miller masterminds up to 20 parties a year and obsessively posts recipes (Nicoles Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie! Nicoles Baked Clams With Chorizo!) on Facebook and
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Twitter. And, yes, between designing multiple collections, not to mention eyewear, fragrances, and a bed and bath line, the freckled 58-year-old, who somehow manages to give off the carefree air of a teenager, is in the midst of penning a book on entertaining. Recalling one of Millers infamous DIY lunchesthis one with a seafood themephilanthropist Marcia Mishaan said, Nicole literally went out into the bay behind the house, rolled up her pants, and dug the clams herself. To accommodate his wifes chronic socializing, Millers husband, the financier Kim Taipale, added on a special soupedup party porch to their Sag Harbor, New York, beach house (see: outdoor sound system, canopyesque weather guards, and air-conditioning and heat in case of pesky temperature fluctuations). The couple, heavily into midcentury modern design, bought the neo-traditional shingled estate 14 years ago shortly after the birth of their son, Palmer, and did their best to rid the retreat of all quaint ornamentation. But her feasts are beyond baroque. They almost always have a wanderlust themesort of liv-
ing souvenirs of Millers global hopscotching. Last year was Turkey (guests left wearing their evil-eye napkin-holders as bracelets); another time it was Frida Kahlo. The next day there were unibrows all over the floor, giggles Miller. This, her second-ever Mexican-themed night, was in part dreamed up in homage to beloved south-of-the-border escapes: Oaxaca, San Miguel de Allende, Acapulco, and Mexico City. But then theres the Donald Baechler skull painting. Heres Millers obsessive-collector logic: After it arrived from New Yorks Cheim & Read gallery, it had to have a proper Hamptons debut. And it is now hanging, sphinxlike, in the living room among works by her artist coterie: David Salle, Eric Fischl, and April Gornik. Miller launched her fashion line during Bright Lights, Big City New York, when contemporary art, fashion, and clubbing coalesced with finance to launch a generation of superstars and megabrands such as Calvin Klein and Donna Karan. (A preSex in the City Candace Bushnell was Taipales then girlfriend.) Miller showed herself to be a shrewd rebel independent in an industry dominated by corporate buyouts and investment deals. She and her business part-
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Warmly stylish: Mexican chocolate and dulce de leche sauce spice up a classic; Millers dog T-Rex Racecar in front of a Willy Rizzo coffee table and Jonathan Adler rug
ner of 28 years, Bud Konheim, still own their self-built empire with 20 boutiques and $650 million in annual sales. Miller parlays her deft skill as a powercreative into her role as a hostess. In one post-waterskiing afternoon, Miller has single-handedly transformed her parlors with suitcase loads of collectibles crammed into a closet upstairs. Embroidered skeleton throw pillows appear atop the 1950s George Nelson couch, ceramic circle of friends candle holders from San Miguel de Allende have been placed on the bar, and brilliantly colored paper flowers from a scouting trip to El Paso, Texas, brighten every bare corner. Her social engineering is as precise as a runway collection: (1) Put the place cards on the table after all the guests have arrived. That way if someone doesnt show or someone brings an uninvited friend, there are no embarrassing moments. (2) Have a table that can be expanded or made smaller to avoid any holes or crowding. (3) Always have a theme cocktail, but dont drink too many yourself, says Miller, passing on the freshly shaken margaritas and opting for a lower-alcohol glass of white wine. The dinner table, set for 35, now resembles a scrumptious piata. Brightly colored papel picado banners line the walls of the party porch and mats woven in Oaxaca and painted skull tiles mark each place. (Palmer and the junior set are holed up in the TV room.) Its so boring to just hire a fancy caterer and have them do everything, says Miller,
still in the kitchen dicing heirloom tomatoes last minute, with little concern for splotching her white embroidered peasant blouse. Her Parisian mother can be thanked for the laissez-faire entertaining genes. From her Lenox, Massachusetts, kitchen, the expat Mme Miller effortlessly tossed together complex but homey confections such as coq au vin, ragot de mouton, homemade bread, and wonderful desserts like oeufs la neige. Intuiting the du jour passion for upmarket takes on Mexican street food, the bar is piled high with Day of the Dead yummies: pork tamales, chocolaty chicken mole, homemade tortilla chips, and the showpiece: a giant margarita glass lined with sliced limes and filed with spicy chipotle shrimp on delicate skewers. (For big Hamptons dinners, Miller generally plans the menu with chef Robert Gurvich, with whom she sealed a culinary relationship during a marathon duck confit cooking lesson.) Foodie (and Billy Joel ex) Katie Lee shows up looking glam in high high heels and a surf instructor in tow. Ive been thinking a lot about gourmet Mexican food lately, she says. Lee spent last January in Punta Mita, Mexico, north of Puerto Vallarta, writing a novel and sampling copious amounts of fish tacos that she calls the new $25 hamburger. In typical Millerian style, when the guests gather to break tortillas, Miller spares us the long-winded accolades. Glasses clink-clink for a toast, but all she says is, Lets eat. As easy as a perfect cocktail dress.Julia Chaplin
Her own label: A silk top from her sportswear line ($355, nicolemiller .com) and personalized stationery
Good liquor: Casa Dragones, leader in the sipping-tequila craze ($275, at select retailers)
Mexican vacations: Boca Chica in Acapulco (designhotels.com) or Casa de Sierra Nevada in San Miguel de Allende (orientexpress.com)
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Sidebar: still lifes: by Len Lagrua; Boca Chica hotel: courtesy of location
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what they do. When I was growing up, George Cukor was known as a womens director, primarily because his movies had great female leads. But Howard Hawks did wonderful movies such as His Girl Friday, and he was considered a mans director. Eastwood has proved to be both. I think a feminist element entered his work almost 40 years ago and made it better. Its not an ideological thing, nor does it need to be. A gut sense of fairness toward women and a camaraderie built on empathy and respect will do just fine. Eastwood has become a woman-friendly director because hes actually interested in us. In his recent films, the sexes take turns on center stage, from Million Dollar Baby (Hilary Swank as a young woman hoping to box her way out of poverty) to the Iwo Jima war films, then Changeling (Angelina Jolie as a 1920s mother who loses her child under corrupt and horrific circumstances), then Gran Torino (Eastwood as a crusty bigot able to change) and Invictus (with his good buddy Morgan Freeman as Nelson Mandela). In his new film, Hereafter, the twain meet again, with the lovely Belgian actress Cecile de France as a journalist trapped underwater by a lethal tsunami, then almost miraculously returned to life, and Matt Damon as a reluctant psychic who can communicate with the dead but longs desperately to be normal. Bryce Dallas Howard puts in a luminous appearance too, and so do little identical British twin brothers. The supernatural theme in Hereafter is subtle, although the movies inspired description of the afterlife is something to savor. But the films real subject and the source of its emotional power is that terrible thing we all face: not our own death, but the deaths of those we love. Eastwood, who just turned 80, treats this subject with uncommon grace. Age hasnt made him maudlin, just deft. Talking about working with him for the first time, de France says, Every day he would put his hand on my headhes very cool, very tender. He really emanates love. Watching him work, I thought I really would like to be in his skin. Hes happy, and hes found serenity in himself. Does that sound like Dirty Harry to you? Over the years, Eastwood has evolved as few actors have into one of the trueand most versatileartists of American cinema: acting, directing, producingeven composing the music for some of his films. But before any of this happened, he became a world-famous icon of industrial-strength machismo by playing two characters. In the mid-60s, he was the Man With No Name, a roughneck serape-wearing cowboy in a
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Clint Eastwood has for decades embodied redblooded, red-state American manhood. But under that persona evolved a soulful, deeply humane perspective on the sexes that has blossomed into a late, great filmmaking adventure. By Karen Durbin
was pitching softballs. But as in the fable of the scorpion and the frog, his true nature suddenly erupted, and, fixing Eastwood with a suspicious glare, he barked, Some people say your movies have a hidden feminist agenda. Is that true? His eyes dancing with delight, Eastwood could barely keep a straight face, finally saying, The only agenda I have for my movies is they should be good. Well, sure, but funnily enough, McLaughlin was on to something. Recalling the show today, Eastwood says, Everybodys always trying to put a spin on what a person is or
hannel surfing one lazy afternoon in the 90s, I was stopped in my tracks at the sight of Clint Eastwood on the hot seat in John McLaughlins One on One interview show. McLaughlin is best known as the irascible, right-leaning host of The McLaughlin Group, a weekly Washington, DC, journalists freefor-all. That day, thrilled to have such a spectacular guest all to himself, McLaughlin
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familiar, too. Who hasnt gone postal on a man and felt mortified afterward? Eastwoods camera never mocks Evelyn. Walter shows us her painful fear and confusion; her eyes widen anxiously as paranoia sweeps over her like a veil, erasing any trace of sanity and culminating in off-the-leash rage. You cant help feeling relieved at her death; its an end to her suffering as well. Forty years ago, people were very conscious of feminism, Eastwood says. The first picture I directed had Jessica Walters wonderful performance in a wonderful role, and I had feminists saying, Why are you so oppressive to women? At the same time, one of the executives at Universal asked me, Why would Clint Eastwood want to make a movie where a woman had the best role? Eastwoods oeuvre soon became studded with rich, prominent roles for women, and this time, virtue was rewarded. Five years ago, Million Dollar Baby brought Eastwood Oscars for best director and best picture, another to Hilary Swank for best actress, and one for Morgan Freeman for best supporting actor. The story portrays Maggie Fitzgeralds dogged quest to become a boxer. Eastwood, as the aging trainer Frankie Dunn, unpleasantly points out, I dont train girls. Eventually he does, of course, and the decision profoundly alters lasted for more than three decades; the second began when TV journalist Dina Ruiz interviewed him, and theyre still going strong. His daughter with the actress Frances Fisher lives with him and Dina and their daughter during the school year because Monterey beats L.A. as a place to raise a kid. And he speaks with palpable pleasure about his son Scott, now 24, whom he introduced to music early on and who is now dedicated to it in a way that, Eastwood says wistfully, he and his Depression-era dad couldnt be. If his approach to family is more countercultural than nuclear, then judging by the lack of gossip and bitter tellall books emanating from the arrangement, everybody seems reasonably content. (In the 80s, however, following her breakup with Eastwood and an undisclosed settlement with him and Warner Bros., Sondra Locke did write a tell-all with the Leone-ian title The Good, the Bad, and the Very Ugly.) Its easy to forget that Eastwood didnt just star with Meryl Streep in The Bridges of Madison County, he was her director, too, and the result is one of the best love stories, middle age be damned, ever to grace a movie screen. In adapting the purple-prose novel of thwarted passion between a rural housewife and a photojournalist, Eastwood gave
trio of Sergio Leone spaghetti westerns, a character he gave an allegorical tinge to in 1973 in High Plains Drifter, his third movie as a director. A tale of vengeful salvation, it contains a scene in which his character, dubbed the Stranger, makes a point of raping a womanan awful woman in the awful town that hes ruthlessly setting to rights, but rape is rape. By that time, the 70s backlash against the transformative 60s had set in. The Man With No Name had an urban counterpart in Dirty Harry Callahan, a Magnum-flashing San Francisco cop who shoots the bad guys and gets in trouble with the citys Constitution-quoting liberals. The Dirty Harry movies were glib, nasty, and maliciously false; theyre not just silly dick flicks but a relentless attack on the Bill of Rights: Judges dont gloat at letting murderers go free, and DAs dont love tying cops hands. Once the mayor of Carmel, California, Eastwood genuinely cares about the health of the body politic, and whatever he thought about those films at the timehe was past 40 and they made him a huge starhis fans reactions made him uneasy. People are always trying to equate you with the roles you play. When you start going out and diversifying, they say, Wait a minute, why is he doing this? In my earlier years, I found that people would be disap-
pointed if I didnt pull out a .45 Magnum. He sounds even more uneasy today about the country at large. Were at a point now where nobody can have a political discussion without calling each other meatheads and idiots, he says. In the old days you discussed things. I guess we were more liberal then. Now it seems that no one is interested in that. Its very frightening. Luckily, Eastwood had already begun to diversify, and his first effort as a director, 1971s Play Misty for Me, immediately drew complaints. The beautiful Jessica Walter known today as the mean mom in Arrested Development plays Evelyn, a fling of Eastwoods late-night DJ who becomes his lethal stalker. Via e-mail, Walter says, We decided we shouldnt know anything about her because it would be scarier that way. It is. Evelyn is truly frightening, but shes
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his life. Eastwood and Swank carry equal weight in this movie, but her performance goes so deep its impossible to imagine anyone else in the role. Swank puts it all on him, of course. Its his great belief in you that lets you jump off the cliff, she says. Yet you have to have a safety net, and Clint gives that to you by making the set a very safe place in which to work. Perhaps the most surprising thing about Eastwood is how romantic he can be, offscreen as well as on. Known in his jazz-playing youth as a ladies man not unlike the DJ in Misty, hes now a paterfamilias in spades and revels in it. He has seven children with five women, bookended by marriages. His first union, a young actor and models heady impulse,
Streep a gift that wasnt just generous but smarthe reversed the perspective. The book told the story from the mans point of view, he says, but its the womans dilemma of having a family and facing big decisions. Streep describes a scene in which the lovers fight and she accuses him of standing apart from life, just being an observer, and says shes just a byway for him. And he breaks, she says. He shocked me when it happened. It was something Sean Penn would be very proud ofyou can just march right up to the podium with that performance. And he cut it out. It wasnt about him. It was a matter of never losing focus on the piece and its integrity. As for the notion that a lot of directors dont have a deep interest in women, just saying that to Streep inspires a vigorous hoot. That is the understatement of the century, she says. And thats right, its just interest. Clint at some point became interested.
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From left: Universal/Kobal Collection; Everett Collection; Warner Bros. Pictures/Everett Collection; courtesy of Warner Bros. Pictures
From left: Eastwood with Jessica Walter in Play Misty for Me (1971), with Meryl Streep in The Bridges of Madison County (1995), and with Hilary Swank in Million Dollar Baby (2004); Cecile de France in Hereafter (2010)
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AWOMAN INFULL
Artist Sam Taylor-Wood decided to become a director, end her art-world power marriage, get engaged to the teenage star of her new movie, and have a baby with him at 43. Is she mador brilliant? By Rachael Combe
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t was a pilgrimage, traveling to meet artist and director Sam TaylorWood in the South of France. She was vacationing there with her fianc, actor Aaron Johnsonwho happens to be 20 to Taylor-Woods 43 and the star of her feature film directorial debut, Nowhere Boy their six-week-old daughter, and her children from her previous marriage. I journeyed by station wagon, transatlantic red-eye, two taxis, and, finally, foot, climbing from the tiny village of BeaulieuSur-Mer to the splendor of the $1,130a-night hotel La Reserve de Beaulieu,
notched into a cliff over the sparkling Mediterranean, where Taylor-Wood had asked me to meet her for breakfast. Back in New York, my own family was in chaos after a year that included Alzheimers, addiction, attention deficit disorder, manic depression, two deaths, and three moves. At the end of my rope, I fled the rubble of boxes and broken toys and, blinking a little in the bright light, found myself on a sun-drenched patio waiting with equal parts hope and desperation for my audience. Because if youre thinking it might be time to set your whole life on fire and start over, forget Elizabeth Gilbert ingesting and
genuflecting; Taylor-Wood is the real woman from whom to seek counsel. We in the United States have not gotten quite the eyeful of Taylor-Wood that the English have, but an argument could be made that she is the archetypal Gen-X woman, leading the zeitgeist in everything from do-me feminism and nihilism in her twenties, to glamorous working motherhood and breast cancer survival in her thirties, to now, in her forties, career reinvention and the neat trick of flipping the powerful-man/much-younger-girlfriend paradigm on its head. Its been a bumpy ride, but amid all the glitz and illness and childbearing and heartbreak, shes always produced thoughtful, thought-provoking workNowhere Boy, her visually arresting and moving portrait of John Lennons youth in Liverpool, which opens in America this month, being only the most recent example. Shes had a million excuses to stop: cancer, kids, becoming so wealthy she never has to work again (she and her ex-husband, art dealer Jay Jopling, were reportedly worth $154 million when they divorced two years ago). But she has always moved forward. What kind of person can do that, and with such aplomb? A saint? A madwoman? A goddess? Taylor-Wood walks onto the patio, lithe and energetic (impressively so for the mother of a newborn), wearing striped jean shorts, a large mens-style blue-striped shirt, and gladiator sandals. Shes on time, golden-haired, freshly scrubbed, and mosquito-bitten, with one particularly red, prominent welt on her nose. On her left ring finger she sports an even more prominent diamond solitaire engagement ring, rising out of a sleek platinum and gold band. Should we eat? she asks the moment she sits down. Im so hungry. Shes not staying in the hotel, it turns out, but in a house with Johnson, her two daughters with Jopling (Angelica, 13, and Jessie Phoenix, 3), her sister and brother-in-law, their three daughters, and Angelicas best friend. Its like a girls school up there, she says, shaking her head. [The house] is full of naked toddlers running around screaming and throwing pains au chocolat at each other. Its quite a nice relief to come out here. Taylor-Wood exhibits no reserve, of either the British or celebrity variety. Shes breast-feeding her baby, Wylda Rae, she tells me straightaway, and thats why shes famished. Because she had a mastectomy (Taylor-Wood battled colon cancer in 1997 and breast cancer in 2000), shes nursing with only one breast and concerned about how shell keep it up during her upcoming press tour for Nowhere Boy. Thats a fucking challenge and a half, she says, laughing.
And, of course, the most aesthetic compli- and six months of chemotherapy. (She re- having sex with her 12-year-old student. A cation is having a cup E and a cup CIm fused the cancer drug Tamoxifen, in part to lot of math was done: Perez Hilton wongoing to have to put in four pairs of socks. preserve her fertility, and her gamble paid dered whether it was wrong that Johnson Wylda was born at home in London, off with the birth of Jessie in 2007.) would be closer in age to the baby than to with Johnson and a midwife by TaylorTaylor-Wood took more notice of the his wife. On a cringe-inducing segment of Woods side. Angelica and Jessie were cancer the second time, shes said, and GMTV, a sort of British Today show, host home but not in the room during the birth. these days, shes a pescatarian, green-tea- Lorraine Kelly asked Taylor-Wood pointI know people do do that, but I didnt quite tippling yoga-and-running devotee. Her blank if the pregnancy had been an feel comfortable howling the house down work became more meditative, focused on accident. When she replied that she and in front of my kids, she says, in part be- isolation, grief, and the passage of time, as Johnson had planned it, Kelly merrily cause she didnt want to scare them. in Pieta , a film in which she cradles Robert snarked that, at Taylor-Woods age, her Cause youd be going, Im fine Downey Jr.s apparently dead body, and biological clock would be ticking on, so if Aaaaaah!!! Im fine! This is fun ! Still Life and A Little Death , time-lapse de- you have to do ityou have to do it Taylor-Woods sense of humor has been pictions of a plate of fruit and a dead hare, quickly. Then Kelly began, with a worevident since she came on the art scene in the respectively, rotting at super speed. Her ried wrinkle in her forehead, to make early 90s with the other Young British Art- pieces also featured more celebritiesDa- calculations about how things will work ists (YBAs), with works like Slut (a vid , a lush film of David Beckham sleeping, out as the couple age, until Taylor-Wood self-portrait in which shes covered in hick- her Crying Men series, in which such iconic finally interrupted her. I just dont think eys and smiling) and 16 mm, a video in which actors as Dustin Hoffman and Laurence about it, she said amiably, her voice beshe dances to the sound of machine-gun fire. Fishburne wept for her cameraand she traying only the barest tremble. Ive been While this may not sound like particularly was criticized by some for making public- through plenty in my life where Ive really subtle work, compared with her counter- ity rather than art. had to focus on the day aheadbecause, parts, who were exhibiting pieces that incorporated menstrual blood and dead animals, Taylor-Wood had a light touch. In 1997the year the Sensation exhibition of the YBAs opened in London (you may remember its stop in Brooklyn, which got then mayor Rudy Giulianis knickers in a wad over a dung-embellished Virgin Mary) Taylor-Wood won the prize for Most Promising Young Artist at the Venice Biennale, married Jopling, Multimedia artist: Taylor-Wood shooting Johnson for Nowhere Boy, spring 2009; A Little Death, 2002 the owner of Londons presThe focus on actors, however, gradually as I know, the future is, you know, whattigious White Cube gallery, and gave birth to Angelica. The couple became known as evolved into an interest in narrative film: ever the future is. Once youve stared much for the art Jopling was selling like She made a short, Love You More, that was mortality that hard in the face, you really hotcakes (Tracey Emin, Damien Hirst) nominated for the Palme dOr at the seize the day. And then she grabbed a and that Taylor-Wood was making at a sim- Cannes Film Festival in spring 2008. By glass of water and downed it like she ilar clipmostly video installations of that summer, shed landed the job of direct- wished it were scotch. people failing to communicate and her Five ing Nowhere Boy. (Taylor-Wood says she Oh God, [Kelly] was a fucking nightRevolutionary Seconds series, 360-degree really properly probably stalked the pro- mare. She set feminism back another, photographs of people not interacting ducers, writing a three-page, double-sided another Taylor-Wood shakes her head (sometimes hilariously, as when a couple plea in her madwomans scrawl to con- in exasperation. She chalks up all the has sex in the middle of a drawing room vince them to take a chance on her.) On the raised eyebrows to sexism. I know so and nobody seems to notice) as for their personal front, in October 2008, she and many men who have similar age differraucous soirees with such guests as Kate Jopling ended their 11-year marriage. Just a ences in relationships, and its never an year later, she and Johnson, who was then issue, she says. Moss and Elton John. In December 1997, when Angelica was 19, announced their engagement at NoIn fact, when Jopling, then 45, briefly eight months old, the party momentarily where Boy s British premiere; news of her dated Lily Allen, then 23, shortly after his came to a halt when Taylor-Wood, then 30, pregnancy followed a few months later. separation from Taylor-Wood, he was subThe official groupthink of the main- ject to a minor public flogging. But was diagnosed with colon cancer. She had a foot and a half of her colon removed on stream press was one of discomfort more Taylor-Wood has a point, of course. When Christmas Eve, went straight back to work, than outrage. Bloggers and their anony- a powerful man of a certain age woos a and was short-listed for the Tate Gallerys mous posters were, however as they are pretty young thing, people roll their eyes Turner Prize in 1998. Three years later, she on every topic breathtakingly vicious, and even express censure, but they dont was diagnosed with an unrelated breast offering comparisons to Mary Kay Letour- react as though its diabolical or incomprecancer and underwent the mastectomy neau, the teacher convicted in 1997 for hensible. But reverse the gender roles and
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Wood directing: Liam Daniel/The Weinstein Co.; A Little Death : courtesy of Sam Taylor-Wood and White Cube Gallery
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From left: David, 2004; Slut, 1993; on the red carpet at the Jameson Empire Film Awards, in London, in March; Taylor-Wood in London with fianc Aaron Johnson and her daughters Angelica (far right) and Jessie Phoenix
and leaning in to kiss Taylor-Wood. While the couple has repeatedly said that Johnson is an old soul, his mortal shell still bears the last gleaming traces of pubescence. In a skull T-shirt and plaid Bermuda shorts with a thin chain of zipper teeth around his waist, he has the large-handed, bony leanness of someone whose eating hasnt caught up with his growth. Hes beringed and wears a silver earring that gives the appearance of two tiny horns protruding from either side of his earlobe. With his wild mop of brown curls and the narrow strokes of a moustache and goateeas if someone took a Sharpie to his facethe look is a little portrait of the pirate as a young man. Needless to say, the most radiantly youthful person on the patio is WyldaTeeny-weeny! Taylor-Wood coos over herdouble-chinned, puffy-lipped, eyelids fluttering as she drops off to sleep. Johnson kisses Taylor-Wood again and ambles off to the beach, pushing Wylda. Its a peaceful scene for a couple who have just come through a windstorm of change,
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will cry because I am sad. Taylor-Wood says she meekly admitted Angelica was right. She was quite good to have on set to keep me in check a little bit. Johnson strolls back when weve finished breakfast. While Taylor-Wood goes off in search of a cool spot to feed Wylda, he sits down to rhapsodize about TaylorWoods directing. He began working as a child actor when he was six and was often separated from his parents and sister. Thus the family feeling of a set has always been important to him. The vibe of Sam that you just get straightaway is that shes just a warming person and just a loving soul, and people seem to want to do their best for her, he says, running his hands through his hair, looking more nervous in the company of a reporter than his fiance. He says she has a way of controlling the crowd on set without being controlling. Some directors want to bark orders and be bossy. Sams never, ever negative about anything. When anyone has a problem, she can solve it, al-
falling. While each series expresses a different moodin Bram Stokers Chair she appears to be in danger; in Self Portrait Suspended , the poses look ecstaticthe method behind them all brings to mind the way Taylor-Wood somehow makes the suffering and discomforts of life look easybeautiful, even. Taylor-Wood had an unconventional childhood: Her father, a biker, left when she was nine, and her yoga-instructor mother raised her in a commune, before leaving herself when Taylor-Wood was 15. While she used to express some resentment about it, Taylor-Wood now wishes shed kept mum. I often want to issue a statement and just go, Everythings changed! I get on fine with my mom, fine with my dad. Yes, theyre both barking mad, but thats okay. Ive accepted it. Shes also come to see how her crazy girlhood created her, in the best possible way. You have to force yourself to give yourself parameters, boundaries, she says. Its not necessarily the best way to be
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David and Slut : courtesy of Sam Taylor-Wood and White Cube Gallery; Taylor-Wood and Johnson at Film Awards: Jon Furniss/WireImage; Taylor-Wood and Johnson with daughters: Bauer-Griffin.com
brought up, but its taught me how to survive practically anything. The parallels between her own childhood and Lennons are probably what drew her so forcefully to Nowhere Boy, she says. The film documents Lennons relationship with his aunt Mimi (Kristin Scott Thomas), who raised him, and his mother, Julia (Anne-Marie Duff), who abandoned him when he was young and then came back into his life in his teen years. In the past, when this part of Lennons childhood has been aired, either Julia has been marked a bad mother or Mimi accused of stealing Lennon. But Taylor-Woodinspired in part by a letter from Yoko Ono urging her to remember that John loved Aunt Mimi and Aunt Mimi loved Johnraised the story above blame to create something much sadder and truer: These were people who did their best, loved one another, and still couldnt save one another. Though the press has poked around for sore spots in Taylor-Woods family reshuffling, no scapegoats seem to be lurking in her house either. Jopling and Taylor-Wood announced that their split would be cordial and, perhaps for the first time in history, actually made good on that promise. Jopling still represents Taylor-Wood; he shows up at her premieres, she at his openings; and the children by all accounts accept Johnson as their stepfather. When Taylor-Wood finishes feeding Wylda, we take a walk down to the village. Johnson may be anxious around me, but hes calm and competent with his baby, expertly tying a blanket around her stroller to shield her from the sun and steering the pram over the bumpy medieval sidewalks. The couple pick up a bag of plastic toys at a newsstand for a treasure hunt Johnsons been putting together for the girls and then a cornucopia of fruit, vegetables, parma ham, cheese, and wine at an open-air farmers market for lunch back at their villa. When we circle back to the hotel, we sit in the deserted bar to get out of the sun. Taylor-Wood settles into a couch, but Johnson stands sentry by Wyldas stroller, as though hed like to wrap things up and flee the sceneeither that or step in to protect his fiance if I get too rough with her. Not that she appears to need assistance. In fact, she has said she became more protective of herself after her second go-round with cancer. When I read that overwhelmed and strung-out as I was at the timeit sounded revolutionary: Women exert so much energy creating happiness for others. I tell Taylor-Wood that I loved the idea of her turning this energy on herself. One doctor, in the depth of the dark days, said to me, Youll be re-
ally thankful for this experience, she says. And I so wanted to hit him. But I can see where he was coming from. Now Im much more choosy about the situations Ill put myself into. Friends, however, say they arent sure that cancer really changed Taylor-Wood more like she transformed cancer by looking at it through her own prism. Sam was probably heaved into this world with her Samness intact, says Seamus McGarvey, director of photography on Nowhere Boy and a collaborator on much of of TaylorWoods artwork. She takes things seriously, but she engages with everyone around as human beings and with such humor. Its something Ive never really seen in anybody else. Johnson is aghast when I ask him if he ever worries about Taylor-Woods health. After all, what 20-year-old thinks about mortality? Noooo, he says. Oh gosh, no. Sam is so far from that place now, anyways. Shes as healthy as, like, a 16-year-old. She couldnt possibly have a baby and go through pregnancy and do everything the right way and be so fantastic and strong. Shes more healthy and fit than I am. Before her pregnancy, TaylorWood could apparently outrun Johnson. And he told me (perhaps one too many times to evade my thou-doth-protest-toomuch meter) that she was ridiculously active when they met, not only running and doing yoga, but also kickboxing even pole dancing. Still, you can pole dance from now until next Christmas and its not going to make you 20 years younger. Though the couple have often said that their ages are abstractions to them, it seems frankly impossible to me that Taylor-Wood, with her attentive artists eye, doesnt take note of Johnsons aching youth and feel, well, old in comparison. Ive had so many physical changes of such drama, and its never, ever been an issue with Aaron, that it sort of has made me calm about all of that. Im not saying that I dont look in the mirror and go, Okay she says. But you just have to kind of ride out all those insecurities. I feel lucky to be getting older. The fact that I made it to 30 and then 40 was big enough. So I cant get too down on getting older, otherwise it kind of undoes everything Ive fought for. Johnson tells me that he actually longs for more corporeal gravitas. [I want] the opposite to what men probably want. I want to have a big, fat belly. I think thats what daddies should have. My daddys got a big belly, so I want one too. Johnson says its hard for him to even discuss the age difference between them since
I dont look at Sam as if shes a lot older than me. I feel like were on the same path, he says. Not only is Sam beautiful and everything, but shes smart and ambitious and artistic and shes a woman. This is the part when I should be out of the room, Taylor-Wood says, with a laugh. Now shes the one who looks nervous. But Johnson is just warming to his topic. Ive always wanted this. I planned on having a baby, and Sams a fantastic mother. Ive never been interested in girls and you can be a girl even if youre in your forties or something. Men are the same. There are some men who I know a lot older than me who act so fucking immature and dont get their priorities [straight] or what their responsibilities are if they are a father. I think there are a lot more prattish men out there than I am. Its true; hes right. Any child would be lucky to have a father who looked forward to family life with such unbridled optimism. Naysayers about the couple have tended to infantilize Johnsonwondering what his parents must think and scolding Taylor-Wood for robbing him of the pleasure of being young, as though he were a child living at home with mommy and daddy before he met Taylor-Wood and not a grown movie star. In turn, people have wondered what interest Taylor-Wood could have in someone with such limited life experience. But both are narrow perspectives, focused on the downsides of each period of life. Is to be older to never have fun? (Dont answer that!) Is to be young to have nothing interesting to say? I went to France sagging under the weight of my own adult responsibilities, but Johnson and Taylor-Wood may be on to something: Adult family life doesnt have to be antithetical to the creative, joyful flow of youth. And Im sure every fortysomething working mother of three could benefit from having her partner gush about her like a teenager, like he invented love just for her. For, though Johnson may be more accomplished than most 20-year-olds, when he talks about his love for Taylor-Wood, he sounds exactly his age. With Sam, I just feel like were like two souls that have been joined together that are like Johnson trails off, words unable to contain the largeness of his emotion. He turns to Taylor-Wood. I really do. I love you so much , you know? I couldnt He turns back to me. The only thing Ive ever been sure of in my life is when I wanted to be with Sam, do you know what I mean? Taylor-Wood blushes and smiles a small, delighted smile. She looks over toward their baby. Aww, she says. Wylda just pulled a really sweet face then.
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If Guinness heiress Ivana Lowell had a fairy-tale childhood, it was the kind seemingly shadowed by evil spells and a profound confusion about just who she was. Her memoir is a triumph of hope and human spirit. By A. M. Homes
Ivana Lowells mother, Lady Caroline Blackwood, in the 1950s
vana Lowells Why Not Say What Happened? is a particularly lucid memoir of growing up in simultaneous extremes of privilege and neglect. The book is a riveting history of a family that folds in on itself, consuming generation after generation with money, power, alcoholism, and profound selfishness and emotional disconnection. Lowells compact, finely tuned paragraphs render the saga with brave urgency and courage, and while the import and impact of events is horrifyingly clear, theres an absence of melodrama to the telling and a deep compassioncall it lovefor those who failed the author so miserably. I sat down with Ivana in the Sag Harbor, New York, house she inherited from her mother, Caroline Blackwood, whom I knew during the last years of her life. The house is now a much more placid establishment than it was under Carolines reign, when it was always charged with drama who was coming, who had just goneall of life lived as if on a precipice about to crash into a storm-tossed sea. Ivana does share with her mother a rather profound intensity, though her eyes are a deep and forgiving brown and not the famous terrifying blue that Caroline would focus upon you like X-ray specs. Despite the memoirs selfexposure, in person Ivana has an English affect, saying less rather than more.
Ivanas mum, Caroline, was the daughter of Basil Hamilton-Temple-Blackwood, the Fourth Marquess of Dufferin and Ava, and brewery heiress Maureen Guinness one of three sisters renowned in the 1930s as the Golden Guinness Girls. The multigenerational prominence of the Guinness family includes today a high-profile role in the fashion world: Ivana is cousin to style icon Daphne Guinness as well as model Jasmine Guinness. Lady Caroline was a brilliant author of 10 books and was often described as a muse. She was first married to painter Lucian Freud and then to composer Israel Citkowitz, with whom she had three daughters: Natalya, Evgenia, andfor many years it was assumedIvana. Later,
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Lady Caroline married the American poet Robert Lowell, and Ivana took his name. (Ivanas two sisters declined to make the name change.) The day after Lady Carolines death in 1996, Ivana was told by one of her mothers oldest friends that her father was not Citkowitz but screenwriter Ivan Moffat, or perhaps Robert Silvers, the editor of The New York Review of Books, who had long played a paternal role in her life. The surrounding confusion and subsequent DNA tests confirming that Moffat was her father got Ivana writing. It wasnt
Author Andrew Solomon (The Noonday Demon ), a longtime mutual friend, describes Ivanas family as the original marriage of brilliance and madness, impossibly glamorous and terrifyingly unreliable. I have never laughed as much with anyone as I used to with Ivana and her mother, but I have also been only
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so much cathartic, but in putting it out there and reading it, instead of being so angry, I really missed everyone. I wished they were here.
Everyones interesting, eccentric, scaryI dont think I would have preferred a normal family. I do associate normal with boring.
seldom in touch with someone who could be as casually cruel as Caroline. Her good and bad qualities were so tightly entwined that you could no more separate them than you could a persons heart and brain. Ivana also endured sexual abuse by her nannys husband, which stopped only after a horrible kitchen accident in which Lowell was scalded by boiling water so badly that she was not expected to survive. She recalls liking the specialness of those awful evening visits and realizing now as the parent of a young daughter how truly awful it was. I knew it was something thatwas to be ashamed of, and I didnt want to fess up. It was my guilty secret. I was 13 when I finally said something. Ivana spent months in a burn unit, her mother and Robert Lowell at her side. Much later, reading her mothers work from that time, Ivana says, It was hard to read her writing. It was very dark wonderful but dark. I read some short stories, one about a burns unit, and I said, Mum, youre writing about me. She said, Oh, noits another burns unit. Lowell laughs and recollects how kind her stepfather was during this period. Its a side of him that no one ever writes or hears about, she says, so sweet, so cozy and considerate. More often one hears about Robert Lowells madness and his being carted away in ambulances. Mum was very good about hiding it from us, Ivana says, but a couple of times I saw him act really odd. Lowell famously died of a heart attack in 1977 in the back of a taxi from JFK airport in New York while returning to his previous wife, the writer Elizabeth Hardwick, clutching in his arms a painting of Carolinea portrait by her first husband, Lucian Freud. Ivana remembers shopping for dresses for Lowells funeral at Harrods with her older sister, Natalya, as one of the good moments. Just a year later, Natalya was dead of a drug overdose at 18, and the family was never the same. Andrew Solomon elaborates: By and large, the one recompense for people who are neglected is that they look pathetic and everyone treats them with compassion. If you come from one of the most glamorous families in England and are neglected, the compassion can be in short supply. So I think that combination is a very dangerous one. Ivana was a much-loved child. She had so much of what most impoverished lives lack, and lacked so much of what even impoverished lives contain, and other people had a hard time understanding that. Most of us have scars on our faces, but hers were in the most hidden places. Ivana doesnt push back against her familys history. She seems enthralled with all its twists and turns, raising the questioncan one get free of the past rather than be damned to repeat the same mistakes? I dont think youre ever free, she says. Writing the book, I did get a better understanding, and I did feel quite
Clockwise from left: Ivana Lowell (left) with Evgenia Citkowitz and their grandmother Maureen Guinness; Georgian house Milgate Park in Kent, the girls home from 1968 to 1974; Ivana socializing with Sir Alec Guinness (no relation); Caroline Blackwood with mother Maureen, circa 1930s; Robert Lowell and Caroline Blackwood with their son, Sheridan, at Milgate Park; Caroline (left) with mother Maureen and sister Perdita at a coming-out ball, circa 1940s
proud. Everyones very interesting, eccentric, scaryI dont think I would have preferred having a normal family. I do associate normal with boring , which is really bad. No stranger to the family battle with alcohol, Ivana has been to rehab five times. Adding to the familys literary legacy, Ivanas younger sister, Evgenia Citkowitz, who is married to actor Julian Sands, also published a promising first book of short stories last spring, titled Ether. In her finely crafted stories, one sees the threads of family connectionadults paralyzed by denial and alcoholism, the sense of things being perpetually on the verge of collapse. Citkowitz declined to be interviewed for this piece, and there is clearly tension between the sisters. Ivana says only, I love my sister very much. We have been through quite a lot together, and she has always been there for me. I dont think she has read my book yet, but I thought her short stories were very powerful, and I am so proud of her. Our meeting is brought to a perfect end by the arrival of Daisy, Lowells 11-year-old daughter by ex-husband Matthew Miller. Lowells current beau, the writer Howard Blum, is somewhere in the house. As we say our goodbyes, Lowell is preparing to take her daughter and Blum to Ireland to meet the family. Growing up in the United States has spared Daisy a certain amount of family drama, and Blum has met some of the cousins but hasnt seen them in their natural habitat, Lowell quips. She is cheerful about the trip, looking forward to visiting her mothers surviving sister, Perdita, and showing Daisy the house where she grew up and thinking about what shes going to write nextmore about the family. When asked whether her life now feels more of a piece, she smiles, strokes Daisys hair, and says, Its really nice when you can appreciate things in the moment.
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LOVE ST ORY
After her brother was convicted of a murder Betty Anne Waters knew he didnt commit, she devoted the next 18 years to proving his innocence. Her mission succeeded, so spectacularly that its the subject of a new biopic though what happened next was too shocking for the big screen. By Nina Burleigh
first saw Betty Anne Waters from a distance, waiting her turn at a podium at the Innocence Projects fundraising dinner in the cavernous luxury eatery Cipriani Wall Street in Manhattan. She was remarkable as the lone white female among two dozen mostly black male exonereeswrongly convicted people sprung from prison after the Innocence Project forced courts to apply DNA testing to their cases. Waters, a trim, fiftysomething with a northeastern drawl to outdo the Kennedys, wasnt an exoneree. An unadorned woman in a simple black pantsuit, she was onstage to speak for her brother Kenny, who spent 18 years in Massachusetts state prison for a murder he didnt commit. He was released because of his sisters superhuman quest to prove his innocencethough what happened next is the kind of wildly random, cruel twist of fate that might make even the most ardent believer question the existence of God. But before the ending, the beginning. Betty Anne and Kennys story, the subject of a movie out now called Conviction , starring Hilary Swank, begins in rural 1960s Massachusetts, where they were two of nine children of more than one father left to their own devices by a neglectful, passionate mother (to put it kindly, which is the way Betty Anne tells me she prefers it be put; their mom died last year). Only a year apart, Betty Anne and Kenny formed a tight little posse with two other siblings, and the four went from playing hide-and-seek on their grandfathers vegetable farm, where they lived with their mom in a cottage, to skipping school and breaking into houses for fun. Kenny was Betty Annes protector, she was the adoring little sis; he was the extroverted prankster, she was the more cautious straight man. In Kenny, Betty Anne had instant entertainment; in Betty Anne, Kenny had an appreciative audience. And when Kenny got into serious trouble, his number one fan was always there for him. When Betty Anne was 12 and Kenny 13, the state removed all nine children from their mothers custody. [Kenny and I] were devastated, totally devastated, Betty Anne says when I talk to her in a Manhattan restaurant. (The movie captured the feeling of their parting exactly right, she adds: The two children are shown clinging to each other as adults wrench them apart.) For the next three years, Betty lived in a series of foster homes, while Kenny landed in reform school. Eventually the large brood were returned to their mother, but Kennys troubles continued and Betty Anne dropped out of school in the eleventh grade. She married a realtor in her
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midtwenties and then quickly gave birth to two boys, whom she stayed home to raise. Meanwhile, Kennys antics werent nearly so quotidian: heavy drinking, bar fights, brushes with the law. He moved back to their grandfathers farm, working nights at a diner. One of his girlfriends had his only child, a girl. In 1982, at the age of 29, Kenny was arrested and charged with the brutal slaying of a neighbor in the Massachusetts hamlet of Ayer. There were no witnesses or solid physical evidence to link him to the crimeonly the statements of a pair of disgruntled exgirlfriends, one the mother of his daughter, who testified that hed told them he killed the female victim. While her brother had a long history of arrests, Betty Anne knew he wasnt a killer. Kenny drank; trouble could follow Kenny, she says, pausing and lowering her voice. He had very bad luck. Just not the kind of trouble and bad luck that included slashing and bashing a 48-year-old mother to death in her own trailer home with a knife and a toaster. Kenny was sentenced to life without parole. By 1985, Betty Anne had moved to Florida with her husband
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and sons, but she got calls from Kenny in prison every few days. Then she didnt hear from him for a month; finally, his attorney called with the news: Kennys last appeal with the Massachusetts Supreme Court had been denied, and hed been put in isolation after trying to kill himself. When I finally did talk to Kenny, I was so upset, so mad, Betty Anne says. He told me he didnt have any hope left, but the one thing that might give him hope is if I was to go to law school and become his attorney. I said itd take forever. He said, I can wait forever if I know youre doing that. I really didnt have a choice, she says now. In the beginning, she wasnt even sure she could get through college, but she agreed because she believed that it was her effortthe sheer effortthat stood between Kenny and suicide. Shed once batted around the idea of being a lawyer, though not very seriously. I was through the court system so much with the foster homes. The nun who gave me a ride home to my mothers house at the end asked me, What do you want to do, Betty Anne? And we had this conversation about me becoming a lawyer. It took Betty Anne 13 years to make good on her promise. Moving back up north, she got an associates degree at the Community College of Rhode Island, then a masters in education at Rhode Island College, before finally entering Roger Williams University School of Law. Almost to the day that she graduated from community college, her husband left her, accusing her of, among other things, loving her brothers and sisters more than him. A few years later, her then 10- and 12-year-old sons decided theyd rather live with their dad than change schools to stay with their mother, whod moved to be closer to her college. That loss kicked off a yearlong depression, Betty Anne says, during which she nearly gave up on her goal. But with Kennys encouragement, she roused herself to cram for the LSAT. New Haven public defender Abra Rice was Betty Annes best friend in law school, both women having enrolled as older students. She is understated and doesnt brag, Rice says, but shes very smart. During the years she was in law school, Betty Anne worked at a bar called Aidans Pub and for a while was engaged to marry the owner. The two never made it to the aisle but remain best friends, she says, and shes now the bars business manager and co-owner. Midway through law school, Betty Anne read about the Innocence Project, a nonprofit started by lawyers Peter Neufeld and O. J. Simpson dream teamer Barry Scheck to ask courts to reconsider convictions using DNA evidence. Until then, Betty Anne says, I didnt have a clue how I was going to [prove him innocent]. Staying in school was giving him hope, but I was actually anxious about what would happen when I graduated. She called the Innocence Project and was told Kenny would be put on a long waiting list and his case accepted only if evidence had been preserved. Pretending to be writing a research paper, Betty Anne and a couple of classmates began calling the clerk of courts in Boston. At first, the office insisted that everything had been destroyed, but after months of haranguing, Betty Anne persuaded a clerk to search the storeroom, where she found a box labeled WATERS. Betty Anne, whod passed the bar by this point, raced up to Boston and opened the box. Without daring to touch anything for fear of contaminating it, she saw a bloody piece of curtain and knifebits of evidence ripe for DNA testing. My heart was pounding so hard I felt you could hear it, Betty Anne recalls. The next morning, she asked the court to officially preserve the boxs contents and called Scheck, who agreed to act as cocounsel. Two years later, Kenny and Betty Anne walked out of the Boston courthouse into a scrum of TV cameras and microphones, both grinning from ear to ear. DNA testing had shown that the perpetrator couldnt have been Kenny Waters. (The crime is now un-
solved; DNA testing has not turned up any new suspects.) Here, the movie ends; the final shot shows Kenny sitting on a picnic bench at Betty Annes house, having his first morning cup of joe as a free man and watching the mist evaporating from a pond. Hollywood being Hollywood, Conviction takes many liberties with the depiction of Betty Anne and Kenny. There are only the two of them in the film, not nine kids crammed into a ramshackle cottage; their mother is portrayed as 1960s sexy, svelte, and attractive. But what happened to Kenny post-prison the filmmakers ignored completely. The first three months, he lived with Betty Anne, then moved in with another sibling who lived nearer to the rest of his family, trying to reconnect with his many relatives. That summer of 2001 was the best time of his life, Betty Anne says, although the shadow of the wasted years cast a pall. Nearly two decades of incarceration hadnt erased Kennys exuberance, but Betty Anne says she saw hints of depression looming as he realized his freedom came without the usual midlife milestones: the homes, the cars, and the children his siblings enjoyed. On September 6, 2001, Kenny was having dinner with his mother and a brother at a local Chinese restaurant, when he decided to run home to see if his nephews and nieces wanted him to bring them some food. Taking a shortcut, he hoisted himself over a fence that collapsed, pitching him down 15 feet, where he hit his head on a cement foundation. A neighbor heard him fall and called an ambulance; he died 13 days later, just six months after his sister and her newly minted law degree brought him home. Its been nine years, but Betty Anne still cries talking about Kennys death. Oh yeah. We miss him. Yeah. Sometimes I can talk about it better than other times, she says, taking a deep breath
and wiping her eyes. Her brother was physically absent during his time in prison, but hed become a kind of family counselor from his jail phonehis death left a gaping hole. Kenny helped a lot of people in the family through problems, Betty Anne says. Half the time, you wouldnt know he was behind bars. He was very patient. Director Tony Goldwyn says early scripts of the movie included Kennys death, but he decided it detracted from the story that captivated him in the first place. What I wanted it to be about wasnt whether Betty Anne was able to get him out or whether he was innocent, but about the fact that these two people loved each other so much, Goldwyn says. People were overwhelmed by the death. Though she is licensed to practice in Rhode Island and Massachusetts, Betty Anne has zero interest in working as a lawyer, having won the single case that mattered to her. She does occasionally speak to policymakers about the Innocence Project and judicial reform. The movie, she reckons, wont change much about her life, although it has extended her proverbial 15 minutes. Kenny would be so excited about the movie, and hed love Sam Rockwell [who plays him]. He really captured Kenny. Shes pleased with the Hilary Swank version of Betty Anne Waters too. I think she did a good job. It does feel so weird. I watch her and I forget shes playing me. That character makes me sad. And then I think, That characters me.
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Dear E. Jean: My boyfriend and I are both greatlooking, yet Im the one whos territorial. I hate other girls flirting with him. Since everyone in town knows Im in a relationship, almost no guys flirt with me (or when they do, Im alone and my boyfriend isnt there to witness it). When I casually mention getting hit on, my boyfriend laughs it off the man barely flinches! He says, Were so solid, I trust you. When someone does start flirting with me, my boyfriend walks over, starts a conversation about sports or something, and they end up becoming friends! Hes just a healthy, confident man without an envious bone in his body. Why cant it ever be his turn to feel the green-eyed monster? Why do I always have to be the insecure one? I want him to fall apart and say, I dont like you talking to that guy, or maybe even one night walk over and tell the other guy, Scram! Shes mine! The Female Iago My dear Female: This is the most frightful bilge Auntie Eeee has seen in a while. Nothing can beat the blindness of a woman in love, I realize; and it is highly gratifying to watch ones boyfriend getting a black eye while defending ones honor. (Indeed, an ex-husband of mine, a virile, hairy-chested Hemingway type, once received two shiners the same night fighting over mean event of such cachet, I shot to the top of the social register of Ennis, Montana). And your man? He would be an intolerable dullard if it werent for the fact that he is an absolute genius. His walking over and starting a conversation about sportsi.e., taking a position by your sideis his manly way of warning the chaps macking on you that you belong to him. Subtly macho, ridiculously effective. There. Auntie Eeee just saved your relationship. Because if you start pulling stunts to make him fall apart, I promise you, some other woman will be there to pick him up.
ELLE
Mr. Raphael, and Mr. Renoir painted the most beautiful women in the world (Eve, Venus, Andromeda), what did they use on their ladies locks? Thats right, Miss Rubicund. They applied Moores paint. Not Benjamin MooreJulianne Moore. Its all about finding your personal style. Auntie Eeee loves you as you are, but one womans crowning glory is another womans emergency flare. You wont be happy until you see how you look, feel, eat, sleep, walk, work, and boff with a different color on. Go ahead, experiment. To me this is like telling Tilda Swinton to try out self-tanners until shes as sepia as Snooki, but give it a whirl. Good luck. Send us pics!
Photographed by Gregg Delman (styling by Christian Stroble; hair by Eduardo Carrasco at Ford Artists NYC; makeup by Sylwia Rakowska at Ford Artists NYC)
WRATH
Dear E. Jean: I look like the Wendys girl. Anne of Green Gables is my hero for calling her red hair a curse. (I know thats pathetic, but as a kid I knew she was right.) Im a natural redhead, and Ive never accepted it. Im 25 years old and need to understand how to come to terms with my red hair. I hate it! Im obsessed with it! It makes me feel out of place and ugly! What do I do? How am I supposed to think about myself? How can I have any self-esteem? Inflamed Inflamed, my firecracker: What? Youve never heard of Nice n Easy? You upbraid your braid in a country where anything can be fixedespecially those things that dont require it? You ask, How am I supposed to think about myself? Heres how: You belong to the semidivine race of russet-tressed bombshellsthe Christina Hendrickses, the Isla Fishers, the Rita Hayworths. When Mr. Botticelli, Mr. Titian, Mr. Rubens,
Dear E. Jean: Since my fianc and I broke upwe were together four yearsIve come to behave very differently during my evenings out. Ive always been flirty with men after a couple of drinks, but I never took it to any dangerous levels. Lately, Ive been really badwaking up piss drunk after a night Id rather not have had. My behavior is hardly discreet, and Im worried my previously spotless reputation is going into the gutter. Im getting worse. Its happening more and more often. Sometimes I have no recollection of the night. Im turning into a woman I dont even recognize. Please help me. Lost in the Gutter Gutter, darling: As the poet Rumi, that thirteenth-century hipster, wrote: Just be quiet and sit down/ The reason is: you are drunk. The cocktails must stop. That gutter youre worried about? Forget it. Youre not in the gutter, honey. Youre on the edge of the roof, as Rumi says. Youre so high, your reputation thinks it is bad manners to be seen with you. Heres how to come down: See a therapist. The breakup with your fianc set the stage for your drunken indiscretions, no doubt. You can work with a therapist to understand what happened. But the best therapist will help you challenge the irrational beliefs that are causing your current crude conduct. She or he can help you learn and practice new ways of behaving. Get rid of the alcohol in your house. It enfeebles your intelligence. Tell your friends youve quit drinking. It may not be forever,
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but definitely for now. Make a plan for socializing without booze and stick to it. A sober woman can nerve herself to do anything.
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SLOTH
Dear E. Jean: Im married to a man whos sexually inept, extremely difficult to be around, and enormously overweight. At my last high school reunion, the most popular guy in schoola jock, an Adonisconfessed he always wanted to ask me out. Me! The poor addled girl who never had a date! Hes rich and handsome, his wife died a few years ago, and he can have any woman he wants. We agreed to e-mail each other. But listen to what happened next: On the flight home, on an airplane full of people, for absolutely no reason, I experienced a spontaneous orgasm. It was colossal. Ive never felt anything like it in my life! Over the following months, during the period we were e-mailing each other, I continued to have hands-off orgasms. Ive never even had a climax with my husband! Or with anyone else, for that matter. The Adonis and I tried to get together a couple of times, but he kept canceling at the last minute. The e-mails have now stopped, but so have the orgasms. How can I continue having them? Liftoff Has Left Off Lift, my luv: Watch the magnificent Mary Roach, author of Bonk: The Curious Coupling of Science and Sex, tell you about the 10 Things You Didnt Know About Orgasm on TED.com. Brain-dead women can experience orgasms, women with spinal-cord injuries enjoy orgasms, Miss Roach even talks about a woman who throbs with an orgasm every time she brushes her teeth. Orgasms are simply a reflex of the autonomic nervous system (the motor that runs the stuff beyond your controlbreathing, heartbeat, drooling over a grilled cheese sandwich with pickles). As Ms. Roach suggests, you dont even need genitals. Orgasms transpire internally. And you, Miss Lift, have accidentally discovered a pathway to your autonomic nervous system. The secret is to create exactly the same conditions that worked the explosions in the first place. And what were those conditions? You were in a plane far, far away from the sexually inept, extremely difficult to be around, enormously overweight husband. Go see a lawyer. Why are you even married to this guy? If you dont love him, get free of him! Life is too short to waste on a rude brute! I suspect once youre free and e-mailing your Adonis again, the bombs will again detonate. Auntie Eeeeeruptinglyhas been enjoying these involuntary buggers for years. (I know, I know. I should not have confessed, but I figure, What the hell? Now, when people run into me at parties, theyll be thinking, Oh my God! Oh my God! Oh my God!)
Q: Five years ago, I cheated on my wealthy boyfriend with his best friend. I told him a year later. Now weve been together seven years, and after all the fighting, weve come to an agreement: Hes permitted to cheat on me once. Will our love survive? A: When two lovers share the same interests, romance has a beautiful chance, but when two pinheads share an idiot plan to cheat, the agreement is not worth the posterior it is written upon.
LUST
Dear E. Jean: Im a 26-year-old lawyer with an MBA from South Dakota. I got married last year, and right after our wedding, I naively agreed to move to my husbands hometown with a horrifyingly small population of 1,200 people. I thought it would be a sexy-serene, cowboychic adventure, perfect for raising beautiful Ralph Laurenclad babies and keeping my hunterfisherman husband happy. Im dying. Im practicing law hereI love being a lawyerbut its not challenging, and the locals look at me like Im a whorish city girl whose sole purpose is to snatch up their husbands like a fangbearing Twilight character. My in-laws hate me. I find myself constantly on my BlackBerry with beloved friends and family elsewhere, most of whom tell me to hop on the next flight out (but who are we kidding? Theres no airport here). And, oh, how I miss fashion! The joy that would explode in me if anyone here recognized that my fabulous floral wrap is DVF! Worst of all: I keep falling in lust with every sweet, smart, funny, attractive man who gives me the teeniest bit of attention! I find myself deeply regretting getting married. My husband will never leave here. Should I stay or go? Mess in the Midwest My dear Mess: Im about to make you happy, Ms. Mess. Im going to tell you to get the hell out of Dodge. Warning: Before you go, you must complete two tasks: Gather your husbands family and say, I got off on the wrong foot here. Can I do anything to bring us together as a fond and united family? And second, consider a run for county prosecutor or states attorney. Youre a woman who requires a challenge to be happy. Putting scuzzbuckets behind bars may do it. Trust me. I was raised in a small town, was married in a small town, and live in a small town. Im so small town, Im practically John Mellencamp. I know small towns.
Run for office! Update: Mess in the Midwest wrote back: Funny you mention the prosecutorial route. If I stay, I do plan on running for states attorney. My hearts really in charging wrongdoers, rather than defending them.
PRIDE
Dear E. Jean: Weeks have been going by without my fianc wanting sex. I finally decided to be brave and ask him what was up. Heres what he said: Im in the best shape of my life. You dress so adorable all the time, but you dont really care about how you look under the clothes anymore. You just dont seem to care about yourself anymore. I do. My jaw hit the floor. I am 5 5 and 155 pounds. Granted, I should be around 130, and Ive been feeling not so awesome about the way I look, but I got angry and told him to go f--k some skinny bitch! I love this man with all my heart, but I cant figure out how to handle this situation! Doing Without Without, my withered blossom: Oh, please. Quit bellyaching and go for a three-mile run. Suddenly its a sin for a man to mention your body? When did we women turn into such pantywaists? Your lads perfectly within his rights to say hes worried that you dont seem to care about yourself anymore. Go for the run, girl! The endorphins will annihilate your feeling not so awesome. Tomorrow, do another three-mile run or bike ride, snowboard, rock climb with your beau. After all, a man who notices youre wearing anything is one thing; a dude who says you dress adorable cant be all bad. Ask a question, dolls! Write to e.jean@AskEJean .com. Or type in a question and get an instant video answer, read past columns, and watch the Ask Eeee videos at the brilliant ELLE.com/watchejean. You can tweet a question at Twitter.com/ejeancarroll or write with divine anonymity and exchange genius tips on Advice Vixens at AskEJean.com.
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Its micro-diffuser sprays ultra fine, leaving hair shiny with a satin touch.
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Chastain: Dan King; Foster, Swank: Alexei Hay; Coppola, Hudson, Keaton, Kruger, Paltrow, Washington: Carter Smith
Its not just a showmancethe enduring love affair between fashion and film has produced most of historys style icons, and in 2010 it sizzles hotter than ever. In this, our Women in Hollywood issue, we bring you close-ups of nine supercharged scene makers and stealers who hold us transfixed both in the red-carpet daylight and the theater dark. And arent we all stars in our own private movie? The seasons best designs capture this, to stunning effect. Were spotlighting the new high-tech-pinup winter-vacaywear, unprissy furs for every day (styled by our own Kate Lanphear), and renewed midcentury silhouettes that take sex appeal seriously. As you turn these pages, remember: Dress for the great performance that is life, and we guarantee youll always get the parts you want.
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Cotton twill jacket, $1,690, skirt, $990, swimsuit, $545, all, Oscar de la Renta, at Oscar de la Renta boutiques nationwide. Patent leather peep-toe wedges, Lanvin, $1,280. For details, see Shopping Guide.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY CARTER SMITH; STYLED BY JOE ZEE
(HAIR BY DAVID BABAII; MAKEUP BY JEANNIA ROBINETTE FOR ALMAY AT TRACEYMATTINGLY .COM; MANICURE BY ASHLIE JOHNSON AT THE WALL GROUP; SET DESIGN BY JULIET JERNIGAN AT JULIETJERNIGAN.COM; FASHION ASSISTANT: SARAH SCHUSSHEIM)
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WATCH IT!
A LITTLE BIT OF HEAVEN (2011 ) Gael is an amazing, lovely, fun guy. We had some very intimate, tough scenes, and he was the best partner. I felt really lucky to work with him.
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Earthbound: Earthbound Productions LLC; The Killer Inside Me : IFC Films/courtesy Everett Collection; Nine : Weinstein Company/courtesy Everett Collection; Bride Wars : Fox/courtesy Everett Collection; How to Lose a Guy in 10 Days: Paramount/courtesy Everett Collection; Almost Famous : courtesy Everett Collection
Kate Hudson has been charming audiences since her irresistible turn in Almost Famous. Now shes ready to prove her darker side is just as electrifying
ways loved to sing, so that was a dream come true, says Hudson, calling from Vienna, where shes with her current beau, Matt Bellamy of the band Muse. It was scary, thoughto be out there on that stage with all the lights, in that tiny, shimmery little outfit that looked like nothing but weighed about 15 pounds. Her recent role in Michael Winterbottoms controversial noir The Killer Inside Me, which debuted at Sundance this year, took Hudson out of her comfort zone in an even more extreme fashion: Her character is beaten violently by her husband, played by Casey Affleck. Brace yourself! she warns. Its disturbing. At one point Casey had to spit on me, which was hard to take. Still, Hudson relishes a challenge: The industry likes to box you in, she admits. I love making comedies, but I want to continue playing different characters. To wit, shell be delving into quasiTerms of Endearment territory with the small-budget A Little Bit of Heaven next, which she wrapped in New Orleans alongside Gael Garca Bernal. Its a funny, sad story about a woman whos dying of cancer, she says. I connected to what its saying about surrendering to something that were all afraid of but thats completely universal. You just have to live your life the best way you can. In 2011 Hudson will be back in comedic form opposite Ginnifer Goodwin in Something Borrowed , the film adaptation of Emily Giffins best-seller about a fianc-stealing friend. My character is relentlessly self-centered, she says, laughing. I had to make her horrible but also not too unlikable. Theres little chance that Hudson, whose optimism stands out in everything she does, could ever appear entirely without magnetism. As Nicole Kassell, who directed her in A Little Bit of Heaven , says, Her charisma is unbelievable. Theres a mystery element that makes someone a real star, and Kate has it. And when she smiles, its like a thousand lightbulbs going off.April Long
interesting to men as they are to women. Q. What did you learn
ts hard to imagine a more serendipitous casting moment than when Kate Hudson landed the role of free-spirited groupie Penny Lane in 2000s Almost Famous after actress Sarah Polley dropped out. Though she had previously cut her teeth in under-the-radar films such as Desert Blue and 200 Cigarettes, it was Hudsons pitch-perfect, Oscar-nominated performance in Cameron Crowes valentine to 70s rock that ushered in the effervescent, green-eyed ingenue as cinemas newly minted sweetheart. The daughter of Goldie Hawn and musician Bill Hudson (though she refers to Hawns partner Kurt Russell, who raised her from childhood, as Pa), the actress was born into a family of what she calls all-around weird, crazy performer types. Even her six-year-old son, Ryder, whom she had with her ex-husband, Black Crowes lead singer Chris Robinson, when she was 25, already has his own shtick, she says. Showbiz is a big part of who we are. It goes beyond other peoples perceptions of what it is to be famousits as simple as being people who like to tell stories. Whether shes sparring with two-time costar Matthew McConaughey (in 2003s love-tale-withbite How to Lose a Guy in 10 Days and 2008s sunkentreasure caper Fools Gold ), scene-stealing from Owen Wilson in You, Me and Dupree, or unleashing her best Miss Piggyesque harrumph-and-flounce opposite Anne Hathaway in high-camp chickflick Bride Wars (which she also coproduced), Hudson emanates a captivating glee, infusing even her ditziest heroines with a knowing intelligence. And while her star power in rom-coms cant be deniedBride Wars raked in more than $21 million on its opening weekend she has more strings to her bow. In last years Nine, her hipwiggling song-and-dance number failed to seduce Daniel Day-Lewis movie maestro, but it showed off her impressive pipesand moves while also providing the films razzle-dazzle high point. Ive danced my whole life and alQ. What actress do you most admire? A. I wouldnt be honest if
THE KILLER INSIDE ME (2010) There were moments during filming that freaked me out and sent shivers up my spine. When youre working on something this dark, you have to try to separate yourself from it a bit.
NINE (2009) Rob Marshall is an incredible choreographer, and he made me feel so comfortable. To be able to do that and share it with my mom, who was also a dancer, was pretty cool.
BRIDE WARS (2009) I loved making this film. I developed it for five years and produced it with my good friend [Julie Yorn], so it was a great learning process.
I didnt say my mom. Apart from the fact that shes my mother, shes a brilliant comedian and a force as a producer. She paved the way for women to produce and star in their own films, and to balance that with being the matriarch of our family is really inspiring. Q. What do you think
root for each other, we get so much further. And its funny, because you dont see a lot of that. Theres still a real imbalance of male and female positions in the industry. And the older you get, the more you witness it firsthand.
HOW TO LOSE A GUY IN 10 DAYS (2003) I always had the most fun doing improv competitions in theater programs when I was younger, and thats what I love about making comedies: the challenges of timing and physicality and improvisation.
ALMOST FAMOUS (2000) One of my favorite experiences. One, because I love Cameron Crowe. And two, because it was just such a wonderful movie. The whole thing was overwhelmingin the best way.
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Cable-knit sweater, $1,225, patent leather belt, $355, both, Prada, at select Prada boutiques nationwide. Silk-andlace bodysuit, Dolce & Gabbana, $1,295. Platinum and diamond bangle, yellow gold bracelet set with lapis lazuli and diamonds, both, Van Cleef & Arpels, prices upon request. For details, see Shopping Guide.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY CARTER SMITH; STYLED BY SAMIRA NASR
(HAIR BY DAVID BABAII FOR MOROCCANOIL AT TRACEYMATTINGLY.COM; MAKEUP BY POLLY OSMOND AT ART DEPARTMENT; MANICURE BY BERNADETTE THOMPSON FOR BERNADETTETHOMPSON .COM; FASHION ASSISTANT: RICH AYBAR); SPECIAL THANKS TO EMPIRE LOFTS (EMPIRELOFTS.COM) AND LOCATION DEPARTMENT (LOCATIONDEPARTMENT.NET)
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Country Strong : Screen Gems/courtesy Everett Collection; Iron Man : Paramount/courtesy Everett Collection; Sylvia : Focus Features/courtesy Everett Collection; The Talented Mr. Ripley : Paramount/courtesy Everett Collection; Sliding Doors : Miramax/ courtesy Everett Collection; Shakespeare in Love : Mary Evans/Miramax/Universal Pictures/courtesy Everett Collection
After nearly two decades on top, she continues to occupy the very spot she started out at: the risk-taking smart womans actress
barely alluded to, unless, as Paltrow quips, theyre party planners or publicists, her portrayal of a tormented poet in Sylvia and of a mathematical wunderkind in 2005s Proof (which won her a Golden Globe nomination) were differentthese were women who had passions outside the bedroom. Even Paltrows superheros assistant is more than a secretary in distress: In both Iron Man installments, her Pepper Potts is a powersuited problem-solver who saves her bosss professional ass so that he can save others. Paltrows characters often play both to and against her own cool, blond, Grace Kellyesque exteriorand she never appears to flinch when a role slides into darkness or complex sexuality. Its fun to play someone whos really got some problems, she says. When her Sylvia Plath introduces herself to Daniel Craigs Ted Hughes, rhapsodizing over his great, big, crashing poems, then minutes later bites his cheek hard enough to draw blood, the act has a shocking zing of erotic intensity. These days, Paltrows children, Apple, six, and Moses, four, get the lions share of her time. Its really hard to find things that are worth leaving them for, she says. But the role of Kelly Canter in Country Strong picture Nashville sweetheart Faith Hill, were she ever to seriously hit the sexand-booze skidsoffered an irresistible cocktail of vulnerability, strength, craziness, and talent, she says. Paltrow worked overtime to prepare for the role, training with a singing coach and a guitar teacher and even endangering her own famously hard-earned physique, chowing down with the rest of the film crew on fried chicken and sweet potato fries (a splurge that, predictably, grabbed tabloid headlines earlier this year). But even as a pipin hot mess, her face streaked with mascara, Paltrow possesses an innate radiance that outshines even Kellys glitzy costumes. Feste, who employed every homely-making weapon in a directors arsenal, from harsh lighting to unflattering makeup, laughs: Its hard to make Gwyneth look unattractive. That was a real challenge.Corrie Pikul
amazing projects. Q. How do you balance work and motherhood? A. Its really hard. One night in Nashville, my son was screaming with a terrible stomachache. I was like, I have to get out of here! but we had to finish. My friend Jenno, a mother of three who was producing, was great, reminding me that nine times out of 10, they just have gas.
hen casting the lead role of a washed-out and possibly washed-up alcoholic singer for next months Country Strong, writer-director Shana Feste chose the one actress who, to her mind, has both the incredible chops to pull off a wrenching downward spiral and the pipesand gutsto sing in front of a stadium-size crowd. More crucially, Feste says, we needed a brave actress whod fall in love with this character and wouldnt be afraid of showing her dark sides or of getting judged for them. Enter Gwyneth Paltrow. Paltrow blazed into the 90s as the smart womans It Girl. Tall and willowy, packing an impressive amount of voom without the bodice-busting va-vas, she didnt have to pay her dues by playing endless iterations of The Girlfriend. Early on, she bewitched the Weinstein brothers as David Schwimmers high school crush in The Pallbearer (1996) and soon became the First Lady of Miramax. She starred, rapid-fire, in six of the companys films, including The Talented Mr. Ripley, Bounce, and, of course, Shakespeare in Love, which took home seven Oscars, including Paltrows, for best actress. Paltrow stood out from the get-go; her poise, elegance, and uncanny knack for British accents (perfected long before she wed English musician Chris Martin of Coldplay) helped her nail such brainy-chick roles as the heroine of Jane Austens Emma (1996), the winsome Helen in Sliding Doors, and the literary sleuth in Possession (2002), based on A. S. Byatts novel. I must have done 25 movies in my twenties, says Paltrow, now 38. I didnt realize that you could be choosyI just did what was put in front of me. Luckily, some of the films were really good. Paltrow soon became the go-to actress for movies featuring ambitious, creative women. While the jobs of most female characters are
Q. Have you ever had a castingcouch experience? A. Yup. When I was just starting out, someone suggested that we finish a meeting in the bedroom. I left. I was pretty shocked. I could see how someone who didnt know better might worry, My career will be ruined if I dont give this guy a blow job! Q. How do you feel about
COUNTRY STRONG (2010) Ive gotten really into the country thingMiranda Lambert, Tim McGraw, Rascal Flatts, Hank Williams and his granddaughter Holly Williams. And I love, love Dolly.
IRON MAN (2008) I wasnt in many of the action scenes. Since those take, like, two weeks to film, I would be lying by the pool with my kids and having picnics with them in L.A. It was awesome!
SYLVIA (2003) Ive been lucky to work with mostly really nice men. One of the most explicit sex scenes Ive done was in Sylvia. I really like Daniel [Craig] a lot, so fortunately it wasnt a weird-out.
THE TALENTED MR. RIPLEY (1999) The movie Im working on now, [Steven Soderberghs] Contagion, has an amazing ensemble cast. Ill get to act with Matt Damon and Jude Law again.
SLIDING DOORS (1998) I worked with an incredible accent coach, Barbara Berkery, who kicked my ass until I said the words right. I find it difficult to improvise in an accent; I have to learn it on the page.
the kinds of roles available to women today? A. Kind of dejected. Theres a lot thats okay, but theres little thats really good, especially for someone my age. Sometimes you find out that something you really liked is going to someone 10 years younger. I find it heartening that Meryl Streep and Sandra Bullock have been able to find and create
SHAKESPEARE IN LOVE (1998) I thought we were just making this little art movie with insider jokes for playwrights. I never would have thought this movie would take off the way that it did.
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INSIDE MAN (2006) There are people who will have someone killed and go to the symphony that night. In my characters case, theres a bit of I will belong to the boys club. She sees it as creating justice.
Inside Man: Universal/courtesy Everett Collection; Panic Room: Mary Evans/Columbia Pictures/Ronald Grant/Everett Collection; Home for the Holidays: Paramount/courtesy Everett Collection; Little Man Tate: Mary Evans/Ronald Grant/Everett Collection; The Silence of the Lambs: Orion/courtesy Everett Collection; The Accused: Mary Evans/Ronald Grant/Everett Collection
The two-time Oscar winner thrills us, whether as victim or vigilante, and has, as one awed director says, changed the game for women in Hollywood
Her mother steered her into the acting business, and from an early age she was the family breadwinner, appearing on Gunsmoke and The Courtship of Eddies Father. By 14, she had an Oscar nomination (for Taxi Driver). One of Hollywoods top stars in the 80s and 90s, Foster, now 47, works in front of the camera when and with whom she wantsDavid Fincher, Neil Jordan, and Spike Lee among them. To every role she brings a taut intelligence and a certain coiled energy, as if readying herself for the attack that almost always comes. Remarkably, Foster considers herself something of an actress by accident. For me, the high is creating the story, not the performance, she says. The performance is, in some ways, the dirty business of fighting the war. But for someone more interested in story than in crying on cue, her career as a director has taken a surprising backseat: Little Man Tate and Home for the Holidays, both from the 90s. Which brings us to her latest directorial project, The Beaver, about a man brought back from the brink of despair bya hand puppet. Sounds absurdist, and not at all like Foster, but dont prejudge, she says, just see it. Which could be a problem, as the movie stars Mel Gibson. I think he asks the big questions in this movie in a dark way, she says. And yes, she has stuck by Gibson through his recent troubles. Weve been good friends for 15 years. I love him, Foster says, and leaves it at that. The same circumspection extends to her own personal life. Shes managed to raise her two kids, now 9 and 12, away from the tabloid glare. Thats only fitting for an artist who places such a premium on living in her own head. Think of her astronomer in Contact (1997) sending messages over the airwaves to beings who may not exist. I do tend to make movies about people dealing with loneliness and absence and abandonment, Foster says. If that feeling of apartness is the price of independence, even of a kind of heroism, shell gladly pay it.Joseph Hooper
since done the kind of work we did in that movieJonathan Demme and Anthony Hopkins too. Sometimes you get captivated and inspired by something. It doesnt happen very often. Q. Any acting inspirations or role models? A. Meryl Streep does something no one still quite understands. She made me appreciate what acting is.
he perfect Jodie Foster scene in the perfect Jodie Foster movie is the opening of The Silence of the Lambs : FBI cadet Clarice Starling huffing and puffing her way through the agencys training course in the Virginia countrysidethis small, solitary, and very determined figureas she prepares to enter the lair of a woman-skinning psychopath. The history of womens roles in Hollywood is rife with those who love the hero, seduce the hero, or provide a welcome distraction from the often grim business of being the hero. But ever since she left her adolescent roles behindmost memorably, the 12-year-old prostitute in Taxi Driver Foster has been the hero. In 1991s Silence, her trial by fire grew to mythic dimensions, but it had played out less baroquely nearly three years before in her first Oscar-winning performance in The Accused , as a knockabout girl who finds justice, and self-respect, in court after a vicious gang rape, and more recently as a mother fighting to save her child in Panic Room (2002), and even in The Brave One (2007), in which she spent some accumulated moral capital in portraying a crime victim who embraces vigilantism. I think shes changed the game for women in Hollywood, The Brave One director Neil Jordan says. In a way, shes created the environment where an Angelina Jolie can be cast in Salt , a movie that was designed for Tom Cruise. No one has thought more closely about the significance of her transformation from vixen victim to woman warrior than Foster herself, who graduated magna cum laude from Yale in 1985. In the first part of my career, I played a lot of survivors, she says. That was very much the mythology of my mothers generation. They werent allowed to picture themselves as the prince who goes into the forest to slay the dragon. They were the ones, the dragon ate their foot off and they managed to hobble to the hospital.
Q. Ive heard youre not looking forward to acting in your fifties, but that you will enjoy it in your seventies. A. The transition is a weird one. Theres an expectation that its still about your looks. Im looking forward to being more of a character, a Simone Signoret or Shelley Winters. Q. When youre acting, are you taking notes on direction? A. Thats one of the real pluses now. I feel like I
PANIC ROOM (2002) With a young, pre-Twilight Kristen Stewart as her daughter, Foster convincingly leads this solid thriller, which is as smart as it is pulse-quickening.
HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS (1995) Foster, in her second directorial feature, giving notes to Charles Durning and Anne Bancroft.
LITTLE MAN TATE (1991) This movie is about the wonder and beauty of lonely characters who want to connect but arent able to. That connection is worth living for, and it takes creativity and vitality.
learned more from David Fincher [Panic Room] than from practically anyone. Hes a guy who does 102 takes. He requires you to be an incredible technician, or else you will end up in the insane asylum. Im a two-take director. But I get it. Id do any movie with him. Q. I still think of The Silence of the Lambs as your pivotal performance. A. None of us has
THE SILENCE OF THE LAMBS (1991) Clarice Starlings fate is to save those marginalized women because she could have been one, and Lecter sees that. They share a destiny and the intimacy that comes with hard-won respect.
THE ACCUSED (1988) As Sarah Tobias, the victim of a brutal gang rape and subsequent high-profile courtroom trial thats more harrowing than judicial, Foster garnered her first Oscar for best actress.
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CONVICTION (2010) For Betty Anne Waters, I gained 15 pounds because that made her more believable. For me, its all about servicing the story. There are few movies Ive done where I can say, That looks like me.
Conviction : Fox Searchlight/courtesy Everett Collection; Amelia : Fox Searchlight/courtesy Everett Collection; P.S. I Love You : Warner Bros./courtesy Everett Collection; Freedom Writers : courtesy of Paramount Pictures; Million Dollar Baby : Warner Bros./courtesy Everett Collection; Boys Dont Cry : courtesy of Fox Searchlight
A two-time Oscar winner who masterfully subverts gender expectations, Swank says that her acting is about both connection and abandon
her oft-told (and yes, iconic) tale, she was raised mostly by her mother in a trailer park in Bellingham, Washington, until Mom packed up 15-year-old Hilary in an Oldsmobile Delta 88 and drove to Hollywood with $75, bound for glory or homelessness. Swank quickly landed teen fare (Buffy the Vampire Slayer, a part on Beverly Hills 90210 ) that spared them the latter, and a few years later, the lead in the stark, made-forpeanuts Boys Dont Cry, which changed her life. Swank throws herself headlong into what she does on-screen: Before the Boys shoot, she moved back to her hometown and passed herself off as her male cousin from Nebraska; to play Amelia Earhart in the 2009 biopic, she learned how to fly. A number of her movies subvert gender expectations head-on. I was a tomboy, Swank says, and staying clean and crossing my legs didnt fit into my attitude of, Lets play baseball now. Making films is a crapshoot, she adds, and sometimes the elements dont come together. But that doesnt make it any less of a passion. Youre connecting with something in you thats in that other person. Where else do you get the opportunity to explore yourself like that? That passion for career has perhaps had some personal cost, including her divorce from actor/ director Chad Lowe. Now she lives in L.A. with her boyfriend, talent agent John Campisi, and his seven-year-old son, and heads a production company whose first film will be next years Something Borrowed , starring Kate Hudson and John Krasinski. Im such an in-control person, Swank admits, but my job allows me to let go of that constant need to control. If I had to break it down, Id say my work is about the abandonment of ego. One thing is for sure: Swanks 12-round bouts of self-exploration have helped expand the universe of whats possible for actresses in Hollywood.Joseph Hooper
celebrity. I went to Italy last year, and I was driving around the country by myself, and people were like, What are you doing? Getting from A to B! In New York City, I take the subway all the time. I take it out to Shea Stadium and watch baseball games. Its easy to lose touch with people when youre not around them anymore. You become so secluded and isolatedand thats just not something Im interested in.
ilary Swank is among a select few who have turned in performances that could fairly, with no James Liptonesque straining for effect, be called iconic: in Boys Dont Cry as a girl so desperate to pass as a boy that she stays in character, even after shes gang-raped by so-called friends; in Million Dollar Baby as an up-from-nowhere prizefighter who begs mentor Clint Eastwood to pull the plug when things go terribly wrong. It wouldnt be surprising if her latest is added to that list of Oscar-winning roles. In the justreleased Conviction , the real-life story of Betty Anne Waters, she portrays a small-town Massachusetts woman locked in a slow-motion, 18-year struggle to save her brother from a wrongful life sentence in prison before the single-minded intensity of her mission burns out every other person in her life. We believe her. Although Swank looks different every time out, with a bound chest and shorn locks for Boys, 19 pounds of boxing muscle for Baby, and 15 pounds of stressed-out-single-mom padding in Conviction , the leonine aspect to her face the sharp lines, the full mouth with its toothy overbitesuggests shes ready to devour a role, and our sympathies. I dont choose roles that are walks in the park, Swank says. Sam Rockwell, who plays her imprisoned brother in Conviction , says, Shes an acting machine, right up there with Gene Hackman and Chris Walken. He remembers one low point during production when cast and crew had to reshoot an entire 16-hour day, the original filmscene after scene of him and Swank locked in emotionally exhausting prison visitshaving been destroyed in an airport X-ray machine. She looked at me and said, Stay with me. Its you and me all day. Thats Hilary Swanks life in a nutshell: focus and discipline and overcoming a lousy hand. In
AMELIA (2009) I still cherish the opportunity to learn how to fly and to play someone who was such an inspiration for me and a lot of other women. It was a fun, transformative movie.
P.S. I LOVE YOU (2007) In an adaptation of Cecelia Aherns novel, Swank plays a woman whose husband (Gerard Butler) arranges to send her 10 messages after his death encouraging her to embark on a new experience.
FREEDOM WRITERS (2007) Ive played a lot of true-life characters, like [teacher] Erin Gruwell, and I try to understand them physically and emotionally and get into it as much as I can.
Q. What have been some of your best moments in front of the camera? A. Id put Conviction up there with Million Dollar Baby as two of my best experiences. Sam Rockwell and I had some scenes where the director yelled and we were dropped back on Earth. You literally go someplace else. That does not happen very often. Q. A lot of your roles are based on real people Boys Dont Cry, Freedom Writers, Amelia,
Conviction. Why is that? A. I would say seven out of 10 scripts I get are biopics, and I dont know if its because I have chosen to do a lot of them or if I just find them more interesting than some of the other scripts I get. Its really hard to come by a fictional script where theres a strong female character. Q. Do you take pains not to carry yourself like a celebrity? A. I see myself as an actor I dont see myself as a
MILLION DOLLAR BABY (2004) To work with icons like Clint Eastwood and Morgan Freeman, learn how to box, and push myself to a new place is something I hold dear to my heart. Ill always be grateful to Clint.
BOYS DONT CRY (1999) I went out and tried to pass as a boy every day for four weeks before filming. I got my hair cut in New York, came home, and pretended I was James [Hilarys cousin from Nebraska].
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MORNING GLORY (2010) Harrison [Ford] is like Spencer Tracyso masculine and yet in some way a pushover. I love that quality. Hes secretive. Hes definitely a turn-on, as they say.
Shes the pinup girl for our time: clever and screwball, lovely and kind, ever stylish, ageless, Oscar-winning, andyay!still in the lead
one as dark and the other as sprightly as can be. Her turn in 1981 as Louise Bryant in Reds, opposite her then love Warren Beatty as the socialist John Reed, earned her a second nomination and Beatty the Best Director award. Who can forget the scene in which Keaton waits at the train station, hoping to find him alive? Its heartbreaking, even when she finally does. To do justice to Dianes spectacular gifts would require a book, not a quote, Beatty says. But in 2006 he told me: Diane can easily and interestingly seem to be in a constant state of ambivalence. And that is true for the character of Louise Bryant: The world is flat, but the world is round. The matter is black and also white. Shes going to go but shes going to stay. Diane brings a suspense that is invaluable. I found her funny and I find her funny, and always surprising. And she has a high level of integrity. Jack Nicholson played Keatons lover in the film and went on to star with her in the 2003 romantic comedy Somethings Gotta Give, for which she earned yet another Oscar nod. In that films heartwrenching scene, Keaton admits, through tears, her unrequited love for him. After the take, Jack came to me nervously and whispered, Diane just told me she loves meshe said, I love you, recalls director Nancy Meyers. I said, Yeah, thats in the script. Shed played it so real, he thought shed slipped a confession! Jack looked relieved. And then very disappointed. Keaton has made 50-plus movies, but you dont feel the inertia of someone whos been working for years in the business, says Sarah Jessica Parker, her Family Stone costar. Theres no dragging the feet, looking at the watch. Shes still completely invested, in an innocent way. Shes sort of like a raw nerve, so exposed. To me, its more the way she chooses to live her life that makes her a great actress. The danger of this industry is that its self-involved. But Diane is incredibly curious and has a lust for information and people. She has an interest in a complete life.Holly Millea
Then in 77, Annie Hall got all the accolades. That really did cement me as somebody. Q: Does the gender of a direct or make a difference? A: No. Warren [Beatty] and Nancy Meyers both want more. Theyre both intensely interested in human behavior. Warren was the first director who wanted so much more. [Laughs]
(con t i n u e d on
Morning Glory : Macall Polay/Paramount Pictures; remaining stills: courtesy of the Everett Collection
rom the start, Diane Keaton seemed to have sprung from the head of Zeus, a woman fully formed and armed with talents too big and complicated for her to be cast as The Girl or The Babe. In the way that Keaton seems much younger than her years now, she seemed much older than her years then, all of which adds up in her long-term favor. My sexuality really wasnt my strong point, says Keaton, 64. It wasnt like, Wow, yeah, she just emanates a fascinating sexuality. Thats not what I led with. She still possesses a silent-movie-star beauty the high cheekbones, wide, down-turned eyes, vulnerable smile. And when she does speak, its in that fractured, funny, emphatic way of expressing herself thats all her owna kind of foreign language weve all come to know and love. It was, Keaton says, what was appealing about me. That self-assessment is extremely truncated, says Meryl Streep, her costar in Marvins Room (1996). Her sexuality and femininity are very much a part of her and her strength. She adds, Woody [Allen] allowed us to love her the way we love people in our livesfor her humanity and three-dimensionality. That was the romance, the sentimentality in his sort of unsentimental films a really nice combo. Shes central to that appeal and the connection people made with his films, best illustrated in 1977s Annie Hall , which Allen wrote with her in mind. Singsonging La-di-da, la-di-da, la la, she took home the Oscar. Only Judy Holliday was as great a screen comedian as Diane Keaton, Allen says. And thats not saying anything about Dianes enormous range as a dramatic actress, her lovely singing voice, and her clear-cut skill as a director. In 1977, Keaton gave another Oscar-caliber performance, in the thriller Looking for Mr. Goodbar. Thats the greatness of Diane, says Buck Henry, who wrote Town & Country (2001). Imagine doing those two films in the same season
Q: Your first real gig was starring on Broadway in Hair. A: And my big break out of Hair was Woody [Allen]s play, Play It Again, Sam. [Keaton was Tony nominated.] I remember a girl coming up to me, I believe her name was Leanne Fahey, saying, If I dont make it by the time Im 24, Im leaving. At the time, I was 23, and I remember just being panicked. I dont feel
SOMETHINGS GOTTA GIVE (2003) This movie allowed women of a certain age to be recognized as viable. People still ask, Did you like kissing Keanu Reeves or Jack Nicholson better? Jack will let you smack him on the mouth.
FIRST WIVES CLUB (1996) All of us girls [Goldie Hawn, Bette Midler] turned 50 within months of each other while making the movie. We didnt know it would be a hit. It was a momentous timeI adopted my daughter, Dexter.
BABY BOOM (1987) My career was on the skids. No studio wanted me. I had never been near a baby! I agreed to take no salary and took a back-end deal, which worked out very well for me.
I made it until Annie Hall. Q: But five years earlier you were in The Godfather? A: It really didnt propel me into stardom. It was like, there was that and then a lot of nothing. The person who really gave me consistent opportunities was Woody. Id have a long spell of nothing and hed say, Do you want to do Sleeper? Love and Death?
ANNIE HALL (1977) Woody always said, Why dont you just dress the way you actually dress? The wardrobe was based on what I was interested in at the timewhat was going on in SoHo. I got ideas from the street.
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THE GODFATHER (1972) How did I get there? There were many, many actresses who auditioned for that part. I dont know why Francis [Ford Coppola] chose me. I was always labeled too kooky.
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Somewhere : Franco Biciocchi; Marie Antoinette : Sony Pictures/courtesy Everett Collection; Lost In Translation ; courtesy of Focus Features; The Virgin Suicides : Paramount Classics/ courtesy Everett Collection
With three stunning features in a row and a fourth one on the way, this groundbreaking auteur is just getting started rewriting Hollywood history
opens next month. And once the picture wrapped, Coppola was asked to design shoes and a bag for Louis Vuitton, which wants more. Coppolas sense of humor shines through in all her movies. Shes particularly witty about female sexiness. Think of the lushly pubescent Kirsten Dunst gazing at us obliviously as she licks a Popsicle in Coppolas first feature, The Virgin Suicides ; or the cameras slow survey of a horizontal Scarlett Johanssons cashmere-clad back and translucent pink panties in the opening of Lost in Translation ; or Dunst in Marie Antoinette, eagerly climbing on top of her lover in her white stockings, fulfilling a real desire. But for outright hilarity, you cant beat the pole-dancing Shannon twins in Somewhere, who entertain action star Johnny Marco (Stephen Dorff), whos weathering a divorce at the Chateau Marmont. Theyre clad so scantily that they should come across as pornographic, but theyre also so bright-eyed and beaming that their naughtiest moveflipping their bums up and downlooks less dirty than doublejointed. I wanted more of a cheerleader quality than the big-boob, supersexual thing, Coppola says. Im a bit of a prude, but the twins, theyre gung ho. They were fun to have around. Somewhere is a wicked portrait of Hollywoods vida loca, something Coppola has been observing since childhood. When Johnnys ex suddenly dumps their 11-year-old daughter (an excellent Elle Fanning) into his life and takes off, you know a change had better come. In the presence of a vulnerable child, the vacuousness of celebrity and its perks feels horrific, and the movie becomes memorable. Dorff, who has known Coppola since they were teens, suggests why. I dont think Ive ever seen a director so confident in what she wants to make. I was deep in the part and thought I should say this thing or that, but she said, No, youll see. And when I watched the film, she was right every time. She knows what shes doing, and its awesome.Karen Durbin
been. Q. What low point stands out for you in making a film? A. When I appeared in Godfather III. I had never wanted to be an actress, and I was 18, and being criticized for ruining my dads movie was a hard thing. But I also think it makes you stronger. I felt that I could handle things after that. John Huston told me when I was very young, Not everyone is going to like you, he said, so dont try to get everyone to. And that was so liberating.
SOMEWHERE (2010) Elle Fanning is so radiant in this picture. She was only 11, and she was growing all the time. I wanted that moment when a mans child is beginning to become a woman and how complicated that would be for him.
ike all filmmakers whove earned the status of auteur, writer, director, and producer, Sofia Coppola has a style as distinctive as her dads, though they could hardly be more different. Francis Ford Coppolas best work is full of bold strokes that burn themselves into your brain; Sofia is a master of the oblique, mingling humor and melancholy with a touch so light that her films feel tantalizingly elusive. Her work has another distinction: I feel Im telling things from a female point of view, she says over breakfast in downtown Manhattan. Im not trying to do thatfirst Im making something personal that I want to see or express. But I do feel that a man would make that story in a different way. If Coppola werent so talented, her life might seem inordinately charmed. In Hearts of Darkness, her mother Eleanors documentary about the making of Francis Apocalypse Now, we glimpse her as a little girl in Manila, dancing with a friend of her fathers. At 15, she got a summer internship at Chanel in Paris. After high school, determined not to follow in her fathers footsteps, she went to California Institute of the Arts to study photography, but while there, she made a terrific short called Lick the Star, and the die was cast. Did having Francis for a father open some doors? Sure, but now she opens her own. Her second feature, Lost in Translation , made her the first woman to win the Oscar for best original screenplay. Preparing her third, the costume epic Marie Antoinette, she was given astonishing access to shoot in Versailles. How was this possible? The director of the museum said he loved Lost in Translation , she says, with a slightly amazed smile. Coppola has two daughters, Romy and baby Cosima, with her French boyfriend, Thomas Mars, whose band Phoenix won a Grammy this year for best alternative album. Romy, now almost four, got to call Action! on the set of her mothers new film, Somewhere, which
Q. Is there a woman in film who particularly influenced your career? A. My biggest influence is my dad, but Jane Campion was the woman I admired most as a director. Shes on par with all the great men. Q. Is there a woman in Hollywood whom you especially admire? A. Ive always had a fondness for Anjelica Huston because as children of movie families, our lives share similarities. I thought she handled that really gracefully. Q. Marie
MARIE ANTOINETTE (2006) I loved Kirsten in that movie, and it was fun to do it with an irreverent attitude toward the history, which pissed some people off. But it was in the spirit of Marie Antoinette, who was a little rebellious.
LOST IN TRANSLATION (2003) I wrote the movie with Bill Murray in mind, who wouldnt sign a contract, but he sounded interested. So I went to Japan and started lming. It was a huge relief when he showed up.
Antoinette was a huge project for you. What hurdles did you have to overcome as a woman directing a major film? A. It was big for me, although in Hollywood $20 million wasnt a big budget. But I got a lot of support from Amy Pascal, who championed me at Columbia. I think that without her, it wouldnt have gotten made. She was really supportive of my telling the story from a young girls point of view, when maybe a man wouldnt have
THE VIRGIN SUICIDES (1999) The sister Kirsten played was at the center of the movies sexual drama. But Kirsten was a teenager too, so I think she was working things out for herself as well.
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INGLOURIOUS BASTERDS (2009) The dialogue is poetry! Even though Im German, people think I spoke in my natural accent, but really, not at all. Quentin didnt even want to audition me because he didnt believe I was German.
Inglourious Basterds : Weinstein Company/courtesy Everett Collection; The Color of Freedom : X Verleih/courtesy Everett Collection; Copying Beethoven : MGM/courtesy Everett Collection; Joyeux Noel : Sony Pictures Classics/courtesy Everett Collection; National Treasure : Walt Disney Pictures/courtesy Everett Collection; Troy : Warner Brothers/courtesy Everett Collection
much effort into honing her craft. Instead, the trilingual actressshe also speaks Frenchthrew herself into meatier parts, the kind that wouldnt necessarily plaster her face all over billboards and buses. For 2005s Oscar-nominated Joyeux Noel, the true story of a World War I Christmas truce, Kruger, who plays a Danish soprano, studied opera for months to master the breathing techniques she would need to sing convincingly on set, even though her voice would be dubbed. For 2006s Copying Beethoven, costar Ed Harris, as the deaf composer, met with Kruger, who portrayed his plucky copyist, every day for two months to run lines and learn how to conduct an orchestra. I became an actor on that movie, she says. Ed taught me to turn my fears into my strength. But it was Inglorious Basterds, Quentin Tarantinos ballsy redux of World War II, that offered Kruger a chance to show the masses what she was capable of. As Bridget von Hammersmark, a scheming German actress who doubles as a spy for a pack of Nazi-hunting American soldiers, Kruger paired Marlene Dietrichs 40s-era pincurled allure with G.I. Janes ruggedness, a combo that Tarantino found captivating. So much so that when it was time to film von Hammersmarks violent strangling, he stepped in and clenched her neck with his own two hands. Quentin pushed me in a direction I didnt dare go yet, she says. After that film, the image that people had of me as being small and dainty-looking was shattered. Next, shell play an illegal Bosnian immigrant in Unknown White Male, a thriller starring Liam Neeson and January Jones, directed by Jaume Collet-Serra. Theres a scene were Im running, and when it came to my close-up, I kept asking makeup to spritz water on my face so itd look like I was sweating, she says. And the DP was like, No. You have to look pretty. I said, Come on. Ive been running four miles. Who looks pretty after that? Does she even have to ask?Julie Vadnal
do you think Hollywood sees you as a powerful player? A. Im more confident, for sure. When someone like Quentin Tarantino has faith in you, it validates your belief in yourself. Thats the hardest thing to do as an actor, because theres always going to be someone younger or prettier. Its hard to stop looking from right to left and just follow your own path.
THE COLOR OF FREEDOM (2007) In this film, based on a true story, Kruger plays the wife of Nelson Mandelas South African prison guard. She was a racist, and not very bright. But whether or not you agree with your character, you cant hate her.
COPYING BEETHOVEN (2006) Agnieszka Holland directed this film, and she was very demanding. Ive worked with other female directors, and they are the toughest! Theyre not impressed easily. All they want is the performance.
JOYEUX NOEL (2005) When it premiered at Cannes, the audience was weeping and applauding for a half hour. It was the first time I realized who were making movies for. I still have goose bumps when I think about it.
NATIONAL TREASURE (2004) Nic Cage is just mad and eccentrichis mind goes a thousand times faster than mine. He would have 50,000 ideas of how to play a scene. I was in awe of him.
a Judd Apatow movie. Q. Why arent there as many great female parts as there are male ones? A. When movies get cast, the first thing they get is the male star, and then they go about casting the girl. Its never the other way around. There are very few women in that position. Q. Like who? A. Angelina Jolie comes to mind. Q. Since Inglourious Basterds,
TROY (2004) I was extremely uncomfortable with the attention that I got for this movie, and I panicked a little because I was green. The big lesson from Troy was: Go to work, be prepared, and dont ever think, This is it.
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PHOTOGRAPHED BY CARTER SMITH; STYLED BY STACEY BATTAT
(HAIR BY TAKISHA STURDIVANTDREW FOR KENBARBOZA.COM; MAKEUP BY JENNA MENARD AT ART DEPARTMENT; MANICURE BY BERNADETTE THOMPSON FOR BERNADETTETHOMPSON .COM; FASHION ASSISTANT: LAUREN BENSKY)
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For Colored Girls : Quantrell Colbert; Night Catches Us : courtesy of Magnolia Pictures; Lakeview Terrace : Screen Gems/courtesy Everett Collection; Mother and Child : Sony Pictures Classics/ courtesy Everett Collection; The Last King of Scotland : Fox Searchlight/courtesy Everett Collection; Ray : Universal/courtesy Everett Collection
From a Ugandan queen to a slums-of-L.A. hooker, Kerry Washington is full of career-making character
erry Washington is not your typical brooding method actor, nor is she a smug I-dont-believe-in-method type. Instead, she manages to occupy a rare, exotic middle ground on which its possible to be a stirringly good actress who simply crossexamines the hell out of every character she plays. Before she could become the unhinged adulteress to Forest Whitakers Idi Amin in The Last King of Scotland, she needed to know, How in the world do you engage in unprotected sex with a white man, as a black woman, as Idi Amins wife in Ugandaknowing the ramifications?! Considering her character in last years Mother and Child, a highly neurotic woman desperate for a baby, she wondered, Who are the people for whom its so important to have the button buttoned and the pearls sitting right where theyre supposed to? And what is going on underneath that? Washington has always been a thinker, an asker. She was born in the Bronx (in 1977just like hip-hop culture, she says), the only child of a professor mom and real estate broker dad, a family whom she drove crazy with her reenactments of Whoopi Goldbergs one-woman Broadway show. I knew every line, she says. In that piece, I understood that you could change peoples way of thinking about other human beings through theater. And it was the one reason my parents let me cursethis character says, She went around the world in 80 motherfuckin days. They were like, Well let her say it. Its art. In sixth grade, Washington switched from public school to Spence, the Manhattan all-girls prep academy, on a scholarship. To get from the Bronx to the Upper East Side, it only takes a trainbut you might as well have had a passport, she says. At 11, I knew what it meant to have a mother who was willing to drive to an outlet so I could get the Bass shoes that these girls wore. I understood costume; the small indicators of culture around you. Its why I pay so much attention to the kind of cake Im going to cook for my kids in a movie, or the shoe that my characters going to wear.
Q. Was it surreal being cast with Whoopi in For Colored Girls? A. Who knew, when I was a little girl walking around saying the F-word because of her, that Id be able to thank her for what she gave me? Q. When has being a woman in Hollywood felt especially powerful? A. Working with Karen Moncrieff [on The Dead Girl]this film is so dark. She had just given birth, and here is
But, she continues, my classmates mother was struggling with alcoholism the same way that my uncle in the Bronx was. You begin to see: Oh, the human condition is the human condition. It just gets clothed in character in different ways. After Spence, Washington continued to probe the human condition at George Washington University (studying anthropology and sociology) and all the way to Hollywood, where its seemed to make the difference in her spot-on portrayals of complicated women, from a ball-busting teen mom (Save the Last Dance) to a smoking-hot homewrecker (Chris Rocks I Think I Love My Wife). But analysis can only do so much; watching her onscreen, its her raw talent that you see. In 2006s The Dead Girl, in which Washington played a lesbian Latina drug-addict hooker, the actress who likes to wax philosophical about a characters gritty circumstances is replaced completely by the heartbreaking girl who lives inside them. The character was written to be Hispanic, says director Karen Moncrieff, and the producers said no to her at first. But she came in and was undeniably this part. If you see her in Ray, shes just differentand I think they didnt understand that shes a chameleon and can really do anything. This month, Washington joins a dream-team ensembleThandie Newton, Janet Jackson, Phylicia Rashad, and Whoopi herselfin Tyler Perrys adaptation of the poetry play For Colored Girls Who Have Considered Suicide When the Rainbow Is Enuf. Its when talking about For Colored Girls that Washington turns almost pep-squad giddy. Every black girl whos ever been on a stage worships this play, says Washington, who appeared in David Mamets Race on Broadway this year. But after the suicide theme, she admits shes ready to let loose for the romantic comedy We the Peeples. Might that cutup-festproduced by Perry, no lessprove a stretch for the pensive scholar? Not likely. Kerry has the best laugh in the world, declares Samuel L. Jackson, her Lakeview Terrace costar. You hear her laugh, and you think, Is there a drunk sailor out here somewhere? She just lets go.Rachel Rosenblit
Because its Jamie [Foxx], its Forest [Whitaker]: Get Kerry to play your wife! But if I want to step outside of my comfort zone, Im going to have to fight for that. Q. Which actresses do you look up to? A. Anna Deavere Smith; Cate Blanchettwhen she came to see Race, I was like, I dont know if I can do this! And Meryl Streep is obvious. Its like saying you like flourless chocolate cake.
NIGHT CATCHES US (2010) I love working with Anthony [Mackie] this was our second film together. We didnt have time to rehearse, but we had a quality of Ive already done love scenes with you. I know who you are.
FOR COLORED GIRLS (2010) The cast is so sick that we used to sit around taking pictures of each others chairs: Look at all these names! When are any of us going to be in a movie with this many women of colorin one place?!
MOTHER AND CHILD (2009) It was important for my character, Lucy, to be intimidated by this adolescent woman, so I knew it was gonna take a hell of an actress. Well, with Shareeka [Epps], Im done. She intimidates me at the gate.
LAKEVIEW TERRACE (2008) It was so fun to go to work and have Sam Jackson be cruel to you. Theyd yell Cut! and Id be hysterically laughing. In reality, hes like family to me. Our relationship is nothing but love.
THE LAST KING OF SCOTLAND (2006) I loved the idea of a love affair being a suicidal act. What kind of desperate straits are these two people in that they let themselves do that? I mean, sex is powerful, but come on.
this beautiful earth mother with her babe on her breast, and shes like, I really need it to be more angry and violent! It made me think, We really do have the power to hold so many different responsibilities at once. Q. Which roles do you still have to fight for? A. If I want to play the wife of a famous black guy, Ive kind of got that in the bagespecially if the [actor] wants to win an Oscar!
RAY (2004) This was the very first scene we shot. We were in New Orleans before the floods, and it was incredible to be able to work there and get to know the city.
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nless youre a casting agent, 29-year-old Jessica Chastain is right now almost certainly the most in-demand actress youve never heard of. That will change over the next year or so, as the nine movies shes shot in the past four years collaborations with a Whos Who of filmhit the screen. In director Terrence Malicks family drama The Tree of Life, she plays Brad Pitts wife (and, thanks to the miracle of flashback, Sean Penns mother). In the film adaptation of the mega-best-selling novel The Help, shes a newly minted up-from-white-trash southern belle. Shes also the lead in Al Pacinos cinematic translation of Oscar Wildes Salome, the wife of Ralph Fiennes Coriolanus in the Fiennes-directed film version of Shakespeares bloody tragedy, and, in what may prove to be her most memorable performance, a fledgling Israeli intelligence operative assigned to abduct an infamous Nazi war criminal in mid-60s East Berlin in The Debt this December. All my friends are going, What is going on right now? says Chastain, who shares their amazement. She still remembers the moment when Malick called to tell her hed cast Pitt as her husband in The Tree of Life. Im trying to act all coolThatd be great! Meanwhile, a friend of mine is with me, and I have this big notepad and a pink highlighter, so I just write, BRAD PITT. Who would have predicted? Chastain grew up in small-town Northern Californiaher mother runs a vegan restaurant, her stepfathers a firefighterbut by the time she was 10, she was channeling what she calls her obsessive personality into the fine artsfirst, dance for six hours a day, and then, after she decided she wasnt tall enough to make it as a ballerina, theater. I was the girl who cut school to go to the park, and the other kids would be smoking and drinking and Id be reading Shakespeare, she says. The Bard brought Chastain to New York. For her Juilliard audi-
tion, she chose Juliets soliloquy about pining for Romeo to take her virginity (come, loving, black-browed night) and gave it the full hormonal treatment. Im on the floor writhing about, completely crazy, she says, laughing. It probably made them go, Ah, this chick, shes brave. (In The Debt, the visible intensity of her feelings for her Mossad coconspirator, played by Sam Worthington, gives the taut political thriller its own star-crossed romantic grandeur.) After four conservatory years, Chastain moved to L.A. to make it in the movies, and the fish-out-of-water feeling returned: Id be sitting in the audition waiting room thinking, Everyone looks like a model, really tall and really blond. She is gorgeous, of course, and petite, with strawberry blond hair and translucent skin. However, once Al Pacino discovered what a finely tuned instrument she was, the other A-list directors and actors fell into line. Al taught me, once you accept the camera and love it, it can see into you, Chastain says. Ralph Fiennes, for one, has admired the view: Her emotions are on her skin, he says about Chastain. She doesnt do any acting. It all moves through her, seemingly without effort. The rest of us will learn what all the fuss is about when her movies begin to roll out. My poor mother is telling everyone she knows, Jessica is doing a movie with Brad Pitt, with Al Pacino, she says, and everyone is looking at her two years later, going, Sure, sure. But anonymity has its privileges. Still preserved after four years of making movies, untroubled by the impediments of celebrityhood, is Chastains girlish sense that anythings possible. The Debt made me realize I love making action movies, she says. And when her cover is blown? People ask me, Is it going to be weird when people start to see your films? she says. I must be in denial, because I dont think so. When its suggested that a steady stream of Jessica Chastain movies over the next few years is going to play out like the Revenge of the Drama Nerd, she counters, Yeah, but now I feel like the cool drama nerd.Joseph Hooper
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Cashmere and wool sweater, $698, cashmere skirt, $2,998, both, Ralph Lauren Collection, at select Ralph Lauren stores nationwide. Pleated patent leather bag, Coach, $398.
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Lace and leather coat, price upon request, leather miniskirt, $2,250, both, Valentino, at Valentino boutiques nationwide. Calfskin bag, Longchamp, $695.
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Cotton top, $290, shorts, $220, both, Prada, at select Prada boutiques nationwide. Leather satchel, Dooney & Bourke, $450. For details, see Shopping Guide.
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Leather peacoat, $4,225, skirt, $2,795, bikini, $560, all, Louis Vuitton, at select Louis Vuitton locations nationwide.
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Viscose jersey bodysuit, Bottega Veneta, $720, at Bottega Veneta boutiques nationwide. Printed shorts, $525, sandals, $1,235, both, Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquire. Woven hat, Lola, price upon request. Leather belt, Miu Miu, price upon request. Yellow gold curb-link bracelets, Verdura, prices upon request. Gold tank tread bracelets, from Beladora, Beverly Hills, prices upon request. Yellow gold and rubber scuba watch, Bulgari, price upon request. Terry-cloth towel, from Kmart, $5. For details, see Shopping Guide.
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SUN SEEKERS, FASHION HAS SEEN THE LIGHT! ITS NOT AN EITHER/OR: YOULL PACK MORE PINUP POWER BY MIXING CUNNING VINTAGE NOTES TENDER 30S FLORALS, CARMEN MIRANDA CUTS AND COLORSWITH HIGH-TECH, CONTEMPORARY COOL
P H O T O G R A P H E D S T Y L E D BY B Y carter smith mario grauso
SWIM
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Nylon swimsuit, Gucci, $585, at Gucci stores nationwide. Woven hat, Eugenia Kim, price upon request. Beaded necklaces, Oscar de la Renta, $450$765. Fossilized woolly mammoth bangle with recycled gold inlay, Mark Davis for Monique Pan, $1,770. Naturally shed buffalo horn bangles with diamonds, Monique Pan, $2,730$4,000. Shell cuffs with gemstones and diamonds, shell rings with gemstones and diamonds, all, John Hardy, prices upon request.
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Leather vest, Valentino, $4,490. Floral bikini, Dolce & Gabbana, price upon request, at select Dolce & Gabbana boutiques nationwide. Beaded bracelet, Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquire, $2,250. Calf leather sandals, Louis Vuitton, $618. Terry-cloth towel, Herms, $530. For details, see Shopping Guide.
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Lambskin jacket, Dior, price upon request, at Dior boutiques nationwide. Cotton voile bikini top, $360, bottom, $395, both, Marc Jacobs. Crystal-trim bangles, Miu Miu, $230$265. Yellow and tan bangles, Prada, $125 each. Enamel bangle, A.V. Max, $45. Surfboard, Jacobs by Marc Jacobs, $1,785.
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P H O T O G R A P H E D BY B Y kt auleta kate lanphear
FURS NEW FRONTIER? A SHAKE OF SHAG, A HIT OF HENDRIX, AND A BOHEMIAN WINK THAT ADD UP TO TRYNOT-TO-TOUCH-ME SEXY. JEANS RECOMMENDED
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From left: Black fox-fur vest, Adrienne Landau for Anna Sui, $1,421. Blouse, Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci, $3,535. Trousers, Emilio Pucci, $860. Fox-fur muff, Dennis Basso, $4,500. Hat, Yves Saint Laurent, $230. Muskrat vest with raccoon trim, J. Mendel, price on request. Leather jacket, 3.1 Phillip Lim, $1,750. Pants, Elise verland, $850. Hat, Minnetonka, $43. Cuff, from Bess, NYC, $700. Mens wool coat, DSquared2 , $2,495. Alpaca-fur stole, Marc Jacobs, $3,900. Crewneck, Burberry Prorsum, $650. Pants, Gucci, $800. Boucl jacket with goatskin and leather sleeves, Altuzarra, price on request. Fox-fur-trim dress, Martin Grant, $4,325. Sunglasses, Oliver Peoples, $400. Choker, Cactus Mountain, $80. Belt, Vicki Turbeville, $3,200. Stretch tulle bodysuit, Devi Kroell, $390. Ring, Pamela Love, $1,232. Leather coat, Alexander Wang, $2,250. Lace turtleneck gown, Valentino, price on request. Ring, Deborah Pagani, price on request. For details, see Shopping Guide.
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From left: Mens wool jacket, $1,325, faux-fur coat, $1,325, wool pants, $695, boots, $975, all, Comme des Garons Homme Plus. Shirt, Comme des Garons, $295. Tie, Vicki Turbevile, $375. Lynx coat, Sorbara for Neiman Marcus, price on request. Belt, B-Low the Belt, $150. Shirt, pants, both, Roberto Cavalli, prices on request. Reversible muskrat and raccoon vest, J. Mendel, price on request. Blouse, Escada, $650. Faux-fur pants, Chanel, $1,865. Hat, Minnetonka, $43. Beaver-fur bag, Marc Jacobs, $3,895. Boots, Giuseppe Zanotti Design, $895. Russian sable coat, Birger Christensen for Saks Fifth Avenue, price on request. Pants, Lost Art, price on request. Raccoon hat, Adrienne Landau, $225. Ring, Stephen Dweck, price on request. Belt, Vicki Turbeville, $3,200. Russian sable and goat-fur coat, Fendi, price on request. Blouse, Nicole Miller Collection, $495. Pants, Lost Art, price on request. Hat, Minnetonka, $40. Natural-foxfur-trimmed broadtail and mink coat, Prabal Gurung, price on request, at the Fur Salon at Saks Fifth Avenue nationwide. Fox-fur bag, Elie Tahari, $1,698. Hat, Victor Osborne, $225. Belt, Vicki Turbeville, price on request. Boots, Michael Kors, $1,850. For details, see Shopping Guide.
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From left: White fox-fur-on-silk-chiffon coat, Helen Yarmak, price upon request. Denim vest, R13, $280. Jeans, from What Goes Around Comes Around, NYC, $128. Pendant, Vicki Turbeville, $1,200. Goat-hair coat, Lanvin, price upon request. Shirt, Tory Burch, $225. Jeans, Cheap Monday, $65. Cross, Vicki Turbeville, $475. Mongolian lamb-fur boots, D&G, $1,695. Sheepskin peacoat, Burberry Prorsum, $4,995. Shirt, Current/Elliott, $302. Jeans, Shipley & Halmos, $225. Fox-fur, astrakhan, and rabbit-fur boots, D&G, $1,870.
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Knitted fox-fur coat, Helen Yarmak, price upon request. Dress, Ralph Lauren Collection, price upon request. Hat, Dior, $1,250. Ring, Stephen Dweck, $395. Bag, Herms, price upon request. Silver-fox-fur-on-silk-chiffon coat, Helen Yarmak, price upon request. Dress, Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti, price upon request. Sunglasses, Victoria Beckham Eyewear, $449. Ring, Stephen Dweck, price upon request. Wool and Mongolian lamb coat, John Galliano, price upon request. Jumpsuit, Roberto Cavalli, $2,945. Hat, Patricia Underwood, $450. Bag, Michael Kors, $495. Boots, Alexandre Herchcovitch, $905. Suede wrapcoat with Mongolian-lamb-fur trim, Marc Jacobs, price upon request. Dress, Emilio Pucci, $3,295. Hat, Minnetonka, $43. Belt, Vicki Turbeville, $3,800. Bag, Cactus Mountain, $250. Mahogany mink coat with fox-fur trim, Giuliana Teso, price upon request. Dress, Peter Som, $2,475. Hat, Minnetonka, $43. Sunglasses, Oliver Peoples, $400. Hand-painted Herms bag, art by Dylan Egon, price upon request. Mens coat, sweater, pants, all, Salvatore Ferragamo, prices upon request. Boots, D&G, $933. For details, see Shopping Guide.
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From left: Russian sable coat, Fendi, price upon request. Shirt, Proenza Schouler, $490. Vest, William Rast, $350. Pants, Balmain, $2,390. Necklace, from House of Lavande, Palm Beach, $698. Mens shearling coat, Burberry Prorsum, price upon request. Turtleneck, $640, pants, $800, both, Gucci. Dyed horizontal American Legend mink coat, Sorbara for Neiman Marcus, price upon request. Dress, Anna Sui, $706. Hat, Patricia Underwood, $450. Sunglasses, Victoria Beckham Eyewear, $449. Rings, all, Stephen Dweck. Belt, Vicki Turbeville, $4,500. Fox-fur boots, Michael Kors, $2,150. Cross fox jacket, Zac Posen for Pologeorgis, price upon request. Trousers, Erin Fetherston, $475. Hat, Minnetonka, $43. Amethyst ring, Deborah Pagani, price upon request. Black CZ ring, Nicky Hilton, $120. Boots, Giuseppe Zanotti Design, $1,295. Feathered fox coat, Michael Kors, price upon request. Blouse, Ruffian, $995. Skirt, Salvatore Ferragamo, $1,590. Muskrat vest with raccoon, J. Mendel, price upon request. Blouse, Ruffian, $895. Pants, Balmain, $2,130. Hat, Minnetonka, $43. Sunglasses, Giorgio Armani, $295. For details, see Shopping Guide.
HAIR BY DAVID VON CANNON FOR KRASTASE; MAKEUP BY SIL BRUINSMA FOR DIOR BEAUTY; MANICURE BY ALICIA TORELLO FOR DIOR BEAUTY AT DEFACTO; PRODUCED BY SLOAN LAURITS AND SIMON MALIVINDI FOR BRACHFELD-NY; CASTING BY ANITA BITTON FOR THE ESTABLISHMENT; FASHION ASSISTANT: KRISTEN SHIRLEY; MODELS: PAMELA BERNIER AT MARILYN NY, LAUREN BROWN AND ELENA LAZIC AT ELITE, LINDSAY WHITE AND TABEA KOEBACK AT IMG NY, SIMON NESSMAN AT MAJOR MODEL MANAGEMENT.
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Styled by Christopher Niquet (hair by Andre Gunn at the Wall Group; makeup by Stevie Huynh at the Wall Group; fashion assistant: Jennifer Gach)
CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION DESIGNER FRANCISCO COSTAAND HIS KILLER DRESSMEET THEIR MATCH: THE THINKING GUYS BOMBSHELL, KAT DENNINGS. ANNE SLOWEY INTERVIEWS THE KING OF REDUCTIONISM AND FINDS THAT, WHEN IT COMES TO KEEPING A BRAND ON TOP, SOMETIMES NICE GUYS FINISH FIRST
daniel king
made Costa the smart dressers go-to designer. For resort, he returned to the companys separates roots, working handmade stitching into all the looks to create flat, foldable shapes that stand away from yet still delineate the contours of a womans body. Veering subtly from the essential Calvin mantra, he has gone so far as to make the clothes softer, evengaspin some small ways romantic. So, while resorts dresses have a traditional Calvin length (below the knee) and techno fabric (rubberized cupro), Costa adds a devore velvet in beachy shades of seafoam green and yellow to give the silhouette a decidedly feminine elegance. Im not a minimalist, Im a reductionist, says the 46-yearold. Since 90s minimalism ended, there has been an evolution at Calvin. For me, that means theres a lot of heart behind what I do. Costa, who designed his first suit at the age of ninea burgundy safari number with patch pockets, for a trip he was taking to his uncles cattle ranchnever had designs on becoming a fashion celebrity. He grew up one of five children in Guarani, Brazil, and spent his after-school hours working in his mothers childrenswear factory. There wasnt a lot of privacy, he says. If you went off to your room to read a book, everyone thought there was something wrong with you. When his mother died in 1991, he came to New York to attend FIT. In short order, he learned English and got a job working for Bill Blass Dresses and, later, Oscar de la Renta. I grew up in a very neutral-tone world, Costa says of his familys home and its surrounding landscape. Oscar taught me how to play with color. After working with de la Renta for five years, he was tapped by Tom Ford, becoming one of the lead designers on Guccis seminal spring 1999 Cher collection, with its $2,000 embroidered jeans and turquoise-embellished slingbacks. Costa had been design director at Calvin Klein Collection for less than a year when he fastforwarded to the top spot. Recently, Costa has tweaked his fashion shows model lineup to better reflect what he sees as the companys clientele, casting such nonteenagers as Kirsty Hume, Kristen McMenamy, and Stella Tennant. Of the much-discussed Lara Stone, the face of the companys Calvin Klein Collection, ck Calvin Klein, and Calvin Klein jeans campaigns, he says: Lara embodies sexy, yes. But she also has a full life. And she has a big, womanly figure, but shes not dowdy. Hes brought in women of diverse shapes, ethnicities, and personalitiesEva Mendes, Kate Bosworth, Kerry Washington, Diane Kruger, Zoe Saldana, Natalia Vodianovaas friends of the brand. While on one hand, Costa appreciates the androgyny of a McMenamy or Tennant, he loves a woman with curveshello, Ms. Dennings (or fellow fans Liv Tyler, Elle Macpherson, and Michelle Obama). In my mind, being modern means embracing more races, ways of being, and yes, body types, he says.
Silk Lurex raglan-sleeve column dress, Calvin Klein Collection, $3,695, at Calvin Klein Collection, NYC, call 212-292-9000. Designer, his own clothes.
feeel sexxxy! trills Kat Dennings, tossing an exaggerated pout over her shoulder, channeling her best Madeline Kahn. Its the kind of proclamation this 24-year-old indie darling would only make ironically; yet, prancing around in a pair of towering 40s-style platforms on the set of her ELLE photo shoot, she looks all that and more. This is due, in part, to a shimmering silver Lurex dress from the fall/winter 2010 collection of her costar at this shoot, Francisco Costa, the creative director of Calvin Klein Collection womens wear. The two just met, but before long theyre shaking their groove thangs and exchanging hugs and besos. As Dennings slinks from pose to pose, her arms writhing in the air, as if risen from an oyster shell like a Botticelli disco ball, Costa joins in the fun with all the bossa nova bravado of a Brazilian nightclub dancer. Still, he saves his real excitement for the construction of the dress. Look! It only has one seam! he says. Only someone with an in-depth knowledge of fashion physics could fully appreciate that single-seam feat. Its almost as complex as the genetic coding that gave issue to the quirky and talented Dennings. For all her endless curls and ginormous bedroom eyes, the actress doesnt have a Hollywood-standard look, and that suits Costa just fineshes just the kind of smart, sexy woman hed love to see wearing his clothes on and off the red carpet. Wisecracking roles in The House Bunny and The 40 Year Old Virgin have earned Dennings a following as Tinseltowns reigning smartaleck ingenue. As the girl who wins Michael Ceras indie-loving heart in 2008s Nick and Norahs Infinite Playlist, she put a sardonic, Generation-Y spin on the classic romantic-comedy heroine. (Next up, she joins Natalie Portman and Anthony Hopkins in the Kenneth Branaghdirected superhero fantasy Thor, out next year.) With not a hint of Botox, Restylane, or saline in sight (okay, shes only 24, but actresses start young these days), her 5'4" frame jiggles, crinkles, and smushes in all the right places. I love her, Costa says later, pouring over outtakes from the shoot. Shes so real, so nice. Beautiful. Costa certainly knows a thing or two about keeping it real. Hes won over even the most die-hard fashion critics with his sweetnatured charm and somewhat softened take on his companys hard-edged heritage. After a slightly shaky start when Calvin Klein and business partner Barry Schwartz retired from the company in 2003, selling it to manufacturing giant PhillipsVan Heusen and anointing Costa as Kleins successor, Costas stewardship of this ber-cool intellectual brand has turned its aesthetic ever so slightly on its modernist head. The billowing color-block silk dresses of spring/summer 2006, for which he won the CFDAs womens-wear designer of the year award; the floaty-yet-structured suits of fall/winter 2007; the white columns and lean, bias-cut silhouettes of spring/summer 2008 (for which he won his second CFDA award); the serene, geometric, cool-tone neutrals of spring/summer 2009; and this falls sculptural tailoringcollections like these, which marry hard and soft, have
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THE MAN WHO LOVES WOMEN (con t i n u e d f rom page 2 88 )
Eastwood has a witty way with love scenes, particularly the hesitation waltz between people who are just starting to realize whats happening. De France describes a scene in Hereafter in which she and Damon are meeting in a public place. The camera went around and around, circling us. Suddenly Eastwood says, Okay, can you kiss the girl? She laughs, adding, It was not written in the script! No, but its there on the screen, two people surprised by love, looking utterly real. In such unlikely films as the militaristic Heartbreak Ridge, with its gnarled gunnery sergeant (played by our guy) who has a secret stash of womens magazines he pores over to understand usparticularly his ex-wifebetter, Eastwood has a way of acknowledging the importance of women. And in Bird, he tells the story of the heroin-doomed jazz genius Charlie Parker from the perspective of Parkers wife, Chan, with Diane Venora both a pungent presence and a satisfying reality check throughout the movie. But never has Eastwood injected a female perspective into a male genre to greater effect than in Unforgiven, the movie he calls his last western because he doesnt believe hell ever find a better one. Unforgiven, which brought Eastwood his first pair of Oscars in 1993, and the less celebrated 1984 New Orleans noir Tightrope, are two brilliant repudiations of the ethos that made Harry Callahan and the homeless man on horseback into romantic figures. Unforgiven opens with a particularly ugly act of violence: A cowboy cuts up the face of a young prostitute he thinks has laughed at his small penis. When the bully who runs the town refuses to punish the cowboy, the prostitutes enraged madam rallies them to raise a bounty: Just because we let them smelly fools ride us like horses doesnt mean they can brand us like horses. Maybe we aint nothing but whores, but we, by God, aint horses. Thats what brings Eastwoods retired and bitterly regretful gunslingernow an impoverished widower with small childreninto the drama, which plays out violently, and largely among men. But the womens implicit critique of the codes of masculinity infuses the whole movie, preventing it from becoming just another righteous thrill ride. In Tightrope, credited to Richard Tuggle but much of it directed by Eastwood, he creates the antithesis of the confidently lethal Dirty Harry. Wes Block is a New Orleans homicide detective riddled with guilty self-doubt who is the devoted single dad of two daughters. This murkily handsome movie doesnt pit good and evil against each other so much as explore the thin line between them. Pursuing a serial killer, Block finds himself in a moral fun house hall of mirrors; among other things, the killer makes a specialty of murdering the prostitutes Block has taken to visiting. But the movies most radical element, in more ways than one, is the woman Block finds himself increasingly drawn to. Shes the smart, no-nonsense head of a rape crisis center who teaches self-defense, and as played by the masterfully understated Genevieve Bujold, she holds out to Block not just the possibility of redemption but of simple peace. When I asked Eastwood if she was in Tuggles script to begin with, he mentioned other things in the script but said he couldnt remember. Im not sure I believe him, but thats okay. To go in 12 years from High Plains Drifters portrayal of a womans punishment by rape to a romance with the kick-ass head of a rape crisis center is a hell of a learning curve.
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DIANE KEATON (con t i n u e d f rom page 311 ) Q: Whats the best advice a director has given you? A: On Manhattan Murder Mystery [1993], I filled in at a difficult time in Woodys life. Mia was going to play the role and she dropped out. I had a scene with Alan Alda where we were talking about our marriage falling apart. The day after, Woody called and said, Its terrible, its terrible. I hadnt been in a movie with Woody for some time, so now Im in a panic: Am I going to get fired? I said, Okay, what should I do? And he said, Do better. [Laughs ] That scene never made it into the movie. I never got it right. Q: Lets talk leading men. Your new film, Morning Glory, costars Harrison Ford. A: A very attractive man! He has a very dry sense of humor. Whereas Im a big slob, hes contained and then he throws these zingers. Q: Youve made eight films with Woody. A: He has a contempt for healing humor, as we used to call it. He had a huge bulletin board in his house, and he sent me this thing 10 years ago with a note: Di, Im cleaning out stuff, thought youd like this. Its called A Clowns Creed. [Laughs ] And its the most horrifying illustration of a very smiley clown. It says things like, To laugh is to live. I believe to give joy is to give greater than gold. [Laughing harder] Q: How about Al Pacino [The Godfather trilogy (1972, 1974, 1990)]? A: Im trying to think. [Cue the Jeopardy! theme music ] I dont know exactly what to say about that. Im coming up short here. Q: Shall we move on? A: Yes. [Laughs ] Q: Marlon Brando was the Godfather. How cool was he? A: Who was he? Really. Marlon Brando went very far, way beyond anything I can even imagine. I guess thats why he was such a galvanizing actor and why he transformed acting, period. All I ever saw of him was on the set. I was just a kid, so what did I know? All the guys were mooning, thats all I remember. And the detail he was detail-oriented in a way that was just kind of, Whoa. Must be a scary guy to have known. Q: Robert Duvall was in the film too. A: He always will be Boo Radley to me [his role in To Kill a Mockingbird (1962)]. I named my son Duke Radley because of that character. Boo Radley was a hero. Q: Warren Beatty [Reds and Town & Country (2001)]. A: The thing about Warren is that he alone can make you feel like you have true potential for greatness. He can make you feel, Oh, I could be a politician, I could be a director. Its a very seductive and thrilling feeling, but of course has nothing to do with reality. But at the same time, he has the gift for seeing the potential in people and he appreciates them. He couldve been a psychiatrist. His insights are brilliant. Q: Albert Finney [Shoot the Moon (1982)]. A: I loved Albert Finney! He was this big cigar-smoking hedonist. Everything about him was sort of big and oozing. He was sexy. One of the things about being an actress is being thrown into situations, harmless situations, where youre playing around with very intense feelings. I was in bed with him in a scene and I remember we were kissingit was really fun, of course, it always is completely fun for me. But anyway, he would just talk dirty. And I remember thinking, Oh my God! That was fun. Q: Mel Gibson [Mrs. Soffel (1984)].
A: I had the biggest crush on Mel of anybody. He was stunning, and Id just stare at him. Q: Sam Shepard [Baby Boom (1987)]. A: Oh my God. Not real. Hes just Western , a man. I was shooting Crimes of the Heart [1986], with Jessica Lange and Sam. I was playing the sad-sack older sister. And I remember watching themthey were so in love. I was sort of like, Oh my god , they were living out my dream. They were in love in the hottest possible way. Q: But youve been in love! Woody, Al, Warren. A: No, not like that. [Ive always been] riddled with some sort of fear or worry. No free falls. A friend of mine has just fallen in love, and she said to me, I am so in love! I thought, Wow, Ive just never been where I would say to somebody, I am so in love. I loved and I was in love, but they were, like I said, not simple. Q: Steve Martin [Father of the Bride I and II (1991, 1995)]. A: I love Steven, and the thing about Steve is hes a friendand thats rare. Q: Leonardo DiCaprio played your nephew in Marvins Room [1996] . A: At the time he was trying to decide whether he should do Titanic. He was talking about it and Id be thinking, Gee, is that a good idea or not, because he was an incredibly gifted kid actor. [He was whining about it! Meryl Streep adds, laughing. He had to go to Mexico, whine. And shoot in a big water tank, whine, whine. ] Q: Jack Nicholson [Reds, Somethings Gotta Give (2002)]. A: I love Jack Nicholson. I love him. And you would too. He needs to do a memoir where somebody turns on a tape recorder and follows him around. This is a brain like none otherI dont understand his imagination or his point of view. Obviously, hes a genius. Q: Youre writing a memoir now, incorporating the diaries of your mother, Dorothy [who died two years ago]. A: She wrote more than a hundred journals over the course of her marriage to my father. I couldnt bear looking at them while she was alive. Id pick them up and say, No, I cant deal with this. Now Im dealing with it. Ive always been somebody who needed a partner. I looked for people who could give me the courage and staminaI couldnt do it alone. My mother, of course, was the partner of my life. That loss is insurmountable. [In the background, Keatons nine-year-old son, Duke, announces, Avatars on! Keaton: Okay, good to know. Duke: When youre done, come to the TV room. Keaton: I will. ] Ive got my orders! When I hear people lament, Whats happening to movies? theyre wrong! Like, last night I was watching Up. That house, floating off with the balloons? [Carl] has to let go. He has to let go of his fucking past to live his life with adventure. Every generation has brilliance; if they tell moving stories with animation, whats the difference? Onward! The past is not more appealing to me than the present, thats for damn sure. Q: Im kind of amazed at how real you are after navigating such an unreal part of the world all these years. A: Im ordinary, an ordinary person. But I have to say, What a life, huh? What a life were all living. Its frightening and beautiful and magical and absolutely inexplicable. But were in it.
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DOCTORS ORDERS
CUTTING EDGE
LOral Elnett Satin Hairspray, $14, target.com. Motions Foaming Wrap Lotion, $4, drugstore. com. Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray, $39, oribe.com. Revolution Pro Tourmaline Ionic 4000i Dryer, $160, bergdorfgoodman.com. Shu Uemura Essence Absolue, $65, shuuemuraartofhair-usa.com.
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INSIDER TRADING
TROPICAL STORM
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Addict Lipcolor in Pinstripe Plum, $26, Style Liner in Noir Black, $32, Vernis nail polish in Smoking Plum, $21, all by Dior, sephora.com. Make Up For Ever Aqua Cream in Turquoise, $22, sephora.com.
Byron Spirulina Hair spray, $26, bybyron.com. Clarins Instant Light Brush-On Perfector, $32, us.clarins.com, Clean & Clear Oil Absorbing Sheets, $6, drugstore.com. CoverGirl Liquiline Blast Eyeliner in Silver Spark, $9, drugstore .com. Ellin LaVar Instant Shine Mist, $8, ellinlavar.com. Frdric Fekkai Coiff Sheer Hold Hairspray, $10, fekkai.com. John Frieda Secret Weapon Flawless Finishing Crme, $6, drugstore.com. Josie Maran Argan Oil, $48, josiemarancosmetics.com. Kiehls Crme with Silk Groom, $18, kiehls.com. Lancme Color Design Matte Lipstick in Corset, $22, lancome-usa.com. Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder, $34, lauramercier.com. LOral Elnett Hairspray, $15, lorealparisusa.com, M.A.C Brow Set in Clear, $15, maccosmetics.com, MoroccanOil Styling Cream, $32, moroccanoil.com for retailers. Nars Body Glow, $59, narscosmetics.com. Neutrogena Spectrum + Advanced SPF 100, $14, drugstore .com. N.Y.C. Sun 2 Sun Bronzing Powder, $5,
WOMEN IN HOLLYWOOD Page 302: Shoes by Lanvin, collection at Jeffrey New York (NYC). Page 304: Sweater, belt by Prada, visit prada.com. Bodysuit by Dolce & Gabbana, at Dolce & Gabbana boutiques. Diamond bracelet, $173,000, gold bracelet, $12,000, by Van Cleef & Arpels, call 877-VANCLEEF or visit vancleef-arpels.com. Page 310: Turtleneck by Wolford, call 800-WOLFORD or visit wolford.com. Pants by Ralph Lauren Blue Label, at Ralph Lauren stores, visit ralphlauren.com. Pumps by Yves Saint Laurent, at Yves Saint Laurent boutiques. Her own glasses. JESSICA CHASTAIN Page 318: Tunic by Calvin Klein Collection, at Calvin Klein Collection (NYC). Page 320: Sweater, skirt by Ralph Lauren Collection, visit ralphlauren.com. Bag by Coach, at Coach stores, call 866-262-2440. Page 321: Blouse by Giorgio Armani, at Giorgio Armani (NYC; Chicago; Houston; L.A.). Skirt by Giorgio Armani, at Armani/5th Avenue (NYC). Bag by Z Spoke Zac Posen, collection at Saks Fifth Avenue. Page 322: Coat, $6,400, skirt by Valentino, call 212-7726969. Bag by Longchamp, at Longchamp boutiques, visit longchamp .com. Page 323: Top, shorts by Prada, visit prada.com. Satchel by Dooney & Bourke, visit dooney.com. Her own sunglasses. Page 324: Coat, skirt, bikini by Louis Vuitton, call 866-VUITTON or visit louisvuitton.com. Page 325: Top, skirt by Marc Jacobs, at Marc Jacobs (NYC). Bag by Reed Krakoff, call 877-733-3525. SYNCHRONIZED SWIM Pages 328329: Bodysuit by Bottega Veneta, call 877-362-1715 or visit bottegaveneta.com. Shorts, sandals by Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquire, similar styles at Balenciaga Boutique (NYC). Hat by Lola, visit lolahats.com. Belt by Miu Miu, at Miu Miu boutiques, visit miumiu .com. Bracelets by Verdura, $18,500$18,750, at Verdura (NYC), visit verdura.com. Bracelets from Beladora, Beverly Hills, call 800680-9569 or visit beladora.com. Watch by Bulgari, $18,500, at Bulgari stores, call 800-BULGARI or visit bulgari.com. Towel from Kmart, visit kmart.com. Page 330: Swimsuit by Gucci, call 800-456-7663 or visit gucci.com. Hat by Eugenia Kim, visit eugeniakim.com. Necklaces by Oscar de la Renta, at Oscar de la Renta boutiques. Bangle by Mark Davis for Monique Pan, collection at Barneys New York. Bangles by Monique Pan, at Barneys New York. Cuffs, $5,500$10,000, rings, $8,000$9,000, by John Hardy, visit johnhardy.com. Page 331: Sweater, briefs, scarf by Miu Miu, visit miumiu.com. Sunglasses by Balenciaga, collection at Solstice Sunglass boutiques, call 866-246-9043. Page 332333: Vest by Valentino, at Valentino boutiques. Swimsuit by Dolce & Gabbana, call 877-70-DG-USA or visit dolcegabbana.com. Bracelet by Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquire, similar styles at Balenciaga Boutique (NYC). Sandals by Louis Vuitton, at Louis Vuitton locations, call 866-VUITTON or visit louisvuitton.com. Towel by Herms, at Herms stores, call 800-441-4488 or visit hermes.com. Page 334: Surfboard by Jacobs by Marc Jacobs, at Marc by Marc Jacobs stores. Jacket by Dior, $7,900, call 800-929-DIOR. Top, bottoms by Marc Jacobs, at Marc Jacobs (NYC). Bangles by Prada, at Prada boutiques, visit prada.com. Bangles by Miu Miu, at Miu Miu boutiques, visit miumiu.com. Bangle by A.V. Max, visit avmaxaccessories.com. Page 335: Jacket by Chanel, $25,455, call 800-550-0005. Bikini by Eres, visit eresparis.com. Shorts by Diane von Furstenberg, at Diane von Furstenberg (NYC). Hat by Oscar de la Renta, at Oscar de la Renta boutiques. Necklaces by Monique Pan, $4,860$12,970, at Barneys New York. Cuffs by Patricia von Musulin, at Mariko (NYC; Palm Beach, FL), visit pvmonline.com. Cuff by Bochic, $23,000, visit bochic .com. Page 336: T-shirt by Versace, call 888-721-7219. Bikini by Lisa Marie Fernandez, visit lisamariefernandez.com. Necklace by Proenza Schouler, visit net-a-porter.com. Bracelets by Dezso by Sara Beltran, visit dezsosara.com. Bracelets by Mary Kate Steinmiller, at Nina at Fred Segal (Santa Monica, CA). Towel by Missoni Home, visit missonihome .com. Page 337: Necklaces by Erickson Beamon, at Beyond 7 (NYC). Necklaces by Luis Morais, visit luismorais.com. Necklace, belt by Tory Burch, call 866-480-8679 or visit toryburch.com. EASY RIDERS Page 338339: Vest by Adrienne Landau for Anna Sui, at Anna Sui (NYC). Blouse by Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci, at Bergdorf Goodman (NYC). Trousers by Emilio Pucci, at Emilio Pucci stores, visit emiliopucci.com. Muff by Dennis Basso, at Dennis Basso (NYC). Hat by Yves Saint Laurent, at Yves Saint Laurent (NYC). Vest by
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AS YOU LIKE IT
Annick Goutal Eau dHadrien Eau de Parfum, $160, nordstrom.com. Atelier Cologne Oolang Infini Cologne Absolue, $155, bergdorfgoodman .com. Killian Straight to Heaven Eau de Parfum, $225, saksfifthavenue.com. Clinique Happy Eau de Parfum, $40, sephora.com. Guerlain Shalimar Eau de Parfum, $118, neimanmarcus.com. Issey Miyake LEau dIssey Noir Absolu Limited Edition Eau de Parfum, $92, neimanmarcus.com. Jo Malone Lime Basil & Mandarin Cologne, $100, jomalone.com. Serge Lutens LEau, $150, barneys .com. Thierry Mugler Angel Eau de Parfum, $185, bloomingdales.com. YSL Belle DOpium, $49, exclusively at Nordstrom.
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Benefit All You Need Is Gloss double-ended lip glosses, $26 for set of six shades, benefitcosmetics .com. Cherry Bomb Killer Perfume in Rebel Angel, $35, cherrybombkillerperfume.com. Clarins Barocco Shimmering Gold Powder for Face and Dcollet, $35, clarins.com. Cl de Peau Beaut Vintage Palette, $125, bergdorfgoodman.com. Dior Vernis nail polish in Czarina Gold, $21, at Saks Fifth Avenue. Lancme Trsor in Love, $72, at Saks Fifth Avenue. Mark. Sophistique Give Me A Ring Solid Fragrance Ring, $16, meetmark.com. Sunday Riley Juno Transformative Lipid Serum, $125, sundayriley.com.
NOVEMBER
ELLE HOROSCOPE
Two sublime moons and Jupiter and Venus both out of retrograde will have you prepped and ready for a holiday season to remember. By Susan Miller
get a welcome pick-me-up at the office, thanks to the positive interplay between action-oriented Mars, your ruler, and stabilizing Saturn. Venus, linked to profit, will be strongly positioned to help as well. The love planet will also turn direct on the 18th, and that, coupled with the full moon on the 21st and the arrival of fellow earth sign Taurus in your house of true love, means November will end on a very amorous note.
Your birthday month gleams with good fortune, as Saturn has finally moved far away enough from Pluto, your ruler, to cease causing trouble and allow you to enjoy life. Given how stressed youve been, this could feel foreign, but youll have peace of mind! And you can revel in the enviable cosmic energy coming your way from the new moon on the 6th. Whatever you wanta new job, more money, or passion in your relationshipis yours to take when you make your move. Romance will flourish when Venus and Jupiter both go direct on the 18th, but you can take advantage of amorous vibrations the 13th through the 16th. In fact, Scorpios ready to wed should consider engagement at the full moon on the 21st, as it signals both Jupiter and Uranusa heavenly occurrence for nuptials. If there are any nuisances this month, theyll come in the form of high expenses, which will settle down by December, so just maintain your spending for now. These cash outlays could be related to home or family issues, as cranky Neptune, in hard angle to Mercury (who rules news and agreements) is prone to cause confusion. Rather than get frustrated, dont push for any decisions. Time is on your side, so let talks proceed as they will.
You start your birthday year with Jupiter in your house of true loveremarkable news for anyone looking for romanceand youll end it next November with this same generous planet in your house of marriage (the implications are obvious for attached Scorpios). In matters of health, youre being protected and motivated by Jupiter in Aries from January to early June. If ever there were a time to get the body you want, its now! A financial change is coming in June, but dont fear after the new moon in July, a promotion and more money are coming your way. By September, Mars in your house of fame and honors will give you yet another chance to score a major career victory.
SCORPIO
AQUARIUS
(Jan 20Feb 18)
With a new moon on the 6th and Jupiter and Uranus in your second house of earned income, you could land a job with status and money. Mars in Sagittarius suggests one or two friends will be helpful in giving you tips on new opportunities, and be ready for your best day, the 19th, when Uranus beams the Sun in your house of career success. At the full moon on the 21st, your attention will turn to home and family. With a blessing on any plans to buy property or enliven your own space, you wont find a better time to focus on these matters. Romance may confuse you this month, as Mercury, your solar fifthhouse ruler of new love, will conflict with Neptune, causing miscommunication. Things will improve after the Sun moves into Sagittarius on the 21st, but with Mercury retrograding next month, keep your guard up until this troubling phase passes.
SAGITTARIUS
A buildup of planets in your private twelfth house and the new moon on the 6th will put you in a reflective, planning mode. Youd be wise to wait until Jupiter, your ruler, and Venus go direct on the 18th before settling anything important. Mars in Sagittarius will ensure that when youre ready to make moves, youll have the determination to do so. By the full moon on the 21st, a work project will reach
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a key stage, but Neptune in hard angle may cause you to overlook errors as you reach completion. Have someone check your work. Your home, property, and family sector will glow all month thanks to a surge of once-ina-lifetime planetary support, so marshal your energies to break down any barriers. Romantically, 2011 will be your year. For now, enjoy an active social life and clear the decks for a relationship that will completely envelop you (in a good way).
CAPRICORN
(Dec 22Jan 19)
Mars is in your twelfth house of privacy until December 7th, so take things slow and easy and allow yourself to enjoy the two sweetest parts of life this month: friends and travel. The new moon on the 6th will bring at least one acquaintance into a prominent role, even more so if a trip away together is part of the equation. Your career progress may have plateaued recently, but by mid-November youll
PISCES
For you, Pisces, the new moon on the 6th will not only open doors for the most exotic travel (possibly business-related) but also show you what more you can do in life. November will indeed mark a turning point
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when you realize who, what, and where is important to you. Its an epiphany that will make you take action, especially after the 18th, when Venus and Jupiter move out of retrograde. Days later, on the 21st, the full moon will first enhance your communication at work, and then sweeten your home and family situation. In romance, love will flourish away from home, and singles should be ready to circulatesomeone you meet could change your life forever. If youre attached, the difficulties you may have had since 2007 are now long gone, and youll be either stronger than ever or ready to move on and certainly up.
ARIES
of collaborationromantic or business-related. There will be an equal emphasis on financial management, but wait to make any big moves until profit-planets Jupiter and Venus move out of retrograde on the 19th. Their direct turn will also do wonders for your social lifefriends are about to play a major role. The full moon in Taurus on the 21st will bring a matter of enormous importance to fruition. Things will move quickly, culminating in an unexpected way, but a longheld dream (possibly romantic) will materialize. As if the full moon werent enough, Jupiter and surprise-a-minute Uranus will be backing you with full force. This could be your biggest moment of 2010.
GEMINI
Youll have some of the best opportunities of the year to meet someone, or, if attached, youll find quality moments with your one and only. Venus, whos all about fun, will finally go direct on the 18th, turning on full power in everyones love life. Venus is also touring your home sector, allowing you to add chic touches to your abode. Do so in haste, as Venus will then move into your true romance sector on the 29th. At work, Neptune in hard angle to the new moon will add confusion, so youll have to dig deeper and ask questions to gain ground. Rather than drive a hard bargain, back off a little and rethink your plan, then try again in the third week of the month. Coworkers and VIPs will be much more amenable to your ideas.
LEO
consider scheduling some vacation time just after the new moon on the 6th. With the Sun, new moon, Mercury, and Venus in this house, any quick trips will be unforgettable. Travel will come up again at the full moon on the 21st, possibly related to real estate or financial matters. Upon your return youll be swiftly wrapped up in domestics, with either renovations or possibly a full-blown move. Romantically, attached Virgos are now going through a blissful stage, especially near the 15th and 19th. For singles, your time will come in December. This month will be about getting your finances in order so you can return to a normal and enjoyable social life. If you have to get out of the house, go somewhere public and populated to increase your chances of meeting a special someone.
LIBRA
TAURUS
CANCER
VIRGO
For your full astrological forecast from Susan Miller, visit astrologyzone.com. And for your daily horoscope, go to elle.com/horoscopes
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first time?
orget everything you know about Jay Mohr. Actually, dont forget everything. Its fine if you remember that hes a 40-year-old comic, actor, and author, and that decades after first nailing those weird Queens vocal intonations, he still does the best Christopher Walken in what has become a very crowded field of Walken impersonators. And even if you never actually knew that he married actress Nikki Cox in 2006 and has an eight-year-old son, Jackson, from a previous marriage, its okay to remember that, too. And while youre recalling stuff, go ahead and commit to memory that Mohr will soon be seen playing Matt Damons brother in Hereafter, a Clint Eastwooddirected meditation on the afterlife. But forget everything elsenamely, that feeling that Mohr has quite a bit in common with Bob Sugar, the none-too-likable sports agent he played in Jerry Maguire. That was 1996, after all. As the now-content family guy happily admits, even he hated himself back then.
ELLE: What can you tell me about your JAY MOHR: I was 16. It was with a girl from
FOREVER MOHR
Jay Mohr explains to Andrew Goldman what hes learned from Dr. Phil and the profound appeal of Jimmy Smits
JM: Inferiority. I was the youngest kid on
another town. After about a month, I found out that I was not the exclusive partner of the girl. I was doing stand-up in Montclair, New Jersey, when four of her loversall older than mecame to my show to tell me to step off. You been hanging around with so-and-so. Not anymore. Okay, my man? It was very Jersey Shore. ELLE: Let me get this straight. Her boyfriends showed up together to tell you to stay away. Four was okay, but five was just a bridge too far? JM: I think I was out because I was a junior and they were seniors. But yeah, they all came in the same Camaro. It was a little homoerotic. ELLE: Whats the angriest youve seen your mom? JM: When Jimmy Smits died on NYPD Blue. Man, they loved them some Jimmy Smits in my family. I remember coming into the house one night and finding my parents in the living room weeping. My mom was going, This is bullshit! ELLE: In Gasping for Airtime, your memoir about your two panic-attack-filled seasons as a rarely seen featured player on Saturday
ELLE
Night Live, you wrote that David Spade was only on SNL so that he could sleep with models. And you werent? JM: No. I got into the business at a very young age for one reason only: to get fucking famous. I wanted as many people as possible to be looking at me. Im sure Saturday Night Live contributed to my panic disorder; the fact that I got on the bullet train, but it wasnt moving. ELLE: Tell me about your most awkward interaction with a female celebrity. JM: Being on the set of a movie where the leading woman was unhappy with my presence and made it clear from day one. I hadnt done many movies, and even though they screen-tested some pretty famous guys, I somehow snaked into the leading role. The actress said, No way! Youve got to be kidding me! Loudly. Between takes. To other actors on set. I would literally go to my moms house and cry. ELLE: As luck would have it, I happen to be on the Internet Movie Database right now. The only film that could possibly fit this description is 1997s Picture Perfect, with Jennifer Aniston. Thats it, right? JM: I will never, ever answer that. ELLE: What do women commonly misunderstand about you? JM: Im sure that having acted like an asshole for a great deal of my life, then having played assholes for a good part of my life, created a perception that Im an asshole. But as Dr. Phil would say, Trust is earned. The longer I stick around, people realize its not so. At least I hope they do. ELLE: Why did you act like an asshole?
my street, the youngest comic in the clubs. I always felt like I was playing catch-up. I was very angry. ELLE: So howd you manage this, uh, deasshole-ification? JM: There was a sea change when I met my wife on the set of Las Vegas. She teases me about the fact that I didnt make any moves on her for so long. I explain that if there was one thing in my life I was determined not to ruin, it was the fact that she was in my life, even if just as a platonic friend. Nik made me the version of me that I had only glimpsed a few times in my life. ELLE: You lament the pussification of child-rearing in your parenting memoir, No Wonder My Parents Drank. I have to say I was surprised to read that you legally changed your last name to Cox Mohr. JM: She took mine; why wouldnt I take hers? What better way to extend my respect to this family that took me in? I think its the opposite of pussification. Its very manly. I encourage other men to do it. ELLE: For obvious reasons, I guess there was no chance either of you were going to become Mohr Cox. JM: No. ELLE: Figured. You chose to circumcise your son, Jackson, so hed avoid being singled out, like two boys in your school who were nicknamed Anteater and Eggroll. Now that less than 50 percent of boys are circumcised, would you consider sparing any future sons the knife? JM: If you did it to the first one, you have to do it to the second. You dont want them in the tub comparing penises like the Sneetch and the Star-Belly Sneetch. It may be absurd, but peoples arguments against it are, too. If it were really so traumatic, no man would ever want his penis touched. I had a bunion taken off my foot, and to this day, when my feet get rubbed, I go, Ay! Ay! Ay! Watch it! Theres a scar there. ELLE: Youve written candidly about how your low sperm count has been hampering your efforts to have another child. How fare the little swimmers these days? JM: Ive been going to an acupuncturist to get my sperm count up. She once asked me, Do you have a strong ejaculate? And I said, I really have nothing to compare it to. And if I can see how strong my ejaculate is, I think Im going about making babies the wrong way.
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