Har Narmade Har

Tapobhumi Narmada Part 6

Shailendra Narayan Ghosal Shashtri

Ever since I have crossed over to the southern banks of Narmada after journeying through Haridham, I have been submerged in deep thoughts about this river. I have been thinking about the magnitude of greatness that depicts Maa Narmada and the fact that had it not been for my circumambulation of this river, I would have never been able to witness the majesty of India and its international appeal. That is why Swami Vivekananda had said, The soil of India is my Heaven; the sages had proclaimed that India constitutes the courtyard for the abode of Vishnu (Vaikuntha). That the soil of my motherland India is Heaven is something I can proudly proclaim today and every Indian can say that too. In fact, today I feel that this aspect of Vivekanandas glorious sermon should be acknowledged with heart-felt gratitude by one and all. However the verses of our old sages that describe India to be the closest to the abode of the Supreme power of this Universe has eluded my understanding till now. I have no hesitation in admitting this. At the same time, I have comprehended the truth in the words of the sages of modern times who have stated that India is the shrine of realized souls. I have realized this as I travelled along the banks of Narmada, through its jungles infested with dangerous wild animals all the while experiencing her blessings and the love and care of pure souls in the form of monks of the highest order. I consider myself extremely blessed and grateful for this experience. Today I can uninhibitedly declare that I have not been born into a poor world. Just like one cannot conclude that a city is poor and unhappy by witnessing only the dark and dirty slums that constitute only a part of it and overlook its grandeur and luxury, similarly it is wrong to call the spirit of India frail and dilapidated by overlooking its treasure-trove of liveliness and concluding only from the daily vagaries of lifes struggles. I have never been tired of witnessing what I have, along the banks of Narmada, for the last two years. I have been surprised at every corner. Every dawn, dusk and midnight has greeted me with the realization of that common thread that binds every entity of this world and as I sat in the caves of sages, the atmosphere charged with the pure smell of ritualistic offerings inside dense forests, I felt elation in my heart witnessing the diversification of that singularity and cried out: Kohyebanyat Kah Praanat Jadesh Akash Anando Na Syat? Once again I prostrated and offered my reverence to the India that is draped in the cloth of the universal mother and harbors and nurtures the truth that percolates our material and spiritual existence. Suddenly a voice behind me brought me to my senses. My train of thoughts met a premature end. A boatman carrying a pile of wood on his shoulders looked at me and said, Do you plan to spend the whole night out in the cold? All the people travelling by the boat have left. Where do you plan to stay? I replied, Vimaleshwar temple is nearby. I would spend the night there. He started laughing at my words. With a tone of sarcasm he said, The temple you have heard about is only so in theory. It is made of Khaprel stone and is completely in ruins. There is a cave where Shiva dwells and nobody comes with offerings for Him. Vimaleshwar is a very small village and does not have any guest house or Dharamshala. The temple too is uninhabitable. Come with me and I will arrange for you to sleep inside the boat for the night. Startled at his words, I looked around and saw that it was quite dark. I hadnt even noticed the sun setting. The man once again hurried me saying, Please get up Baba, and come with me. The forest is nearby. I cannot leave you here alone.

I got up, took my gathri, jhola, and kamandul and began to follow him. I thought to myself that these were the characteristics of the simple people of India, another aspect of the countrys greatness. I climbed up some wooden stairs and entered the boat. Inside the boat there were two covered areas. Under one, people were baking Roti. Three other men were smoking cannabis and singing: Tum hi neek lagai Raghurai So mohi dehu Das such dai which meant, O King of the Raghu lineage, your wish is the command of your followers, grant us whatever you desire. The simplicity and sense of surrender that characterizes these words of Tulsidas in the preface of his book Ramcharitmanas has not only made it soulful and touching but has, for years, transpired into the lives of millions. Such a feeling emanating from the diaspora of Indias spiritual heritage is unparalleled. These simple souls forget all the harsh experiences encountered during the course of the day just by treating themselves with the sweet nectar emanating from taking the name of the Lord. Once again they sang with devotion: Ek vaani Karunanidhan ki So priya jake gati na anki which meant, the nature of the compassionate Ram is that He loves most the one who is helpless and has no way out. This heavenly music combined with the ambience consisting of a boat standing amidst the sea waves in the darkness of dusk had a profound impact on my senses. I stood still for a couple of minutes absorbing it. The chief urged me to take a place and I went inside the boat. The men were still singing: Jar chetan Jag Jeebaje sakal Rammay jani Bando Sabke Padakamal Sada jori yug paani which meant, I know that everything living or dead in the world and life itself is just a manifestation of Lord Ram so I worship the lotus feet of all with folded hands. I felt that this song was extremely timely and successful. It created a stir in my conscience. Tulidas, you are blessed. Your words has ensured that even the material world can serve as a source of spirituality which otherwise is perceived separate and disconnected. Just the words everything is a manifestation of Lord Ram sparkles like glittering diamonds in the golden jewel that Indias rich spiritual heritage represents. In reality I should indeed worship the lotus feet of all the sages and yogis whose love and care has made my voyage through the northern banks so memorable. I remembered their names to the best of my abilities and offered my reverence. The voice of the boatmen had subsided. They have probably sat for dinner. I draped myself in a blanket and lay down. Today was the 30th day of the 7th month (Kartik) of the year 1361 in the Bengali calendar. Today was also the day of Vishnupadi Sankranti, a religious festival. A number of households in Bengal would be celebrating this day with ritualistic worshipping of Lord Kartik. I have learnt from Mahatma Pushan Giriji that Kartik is just another name of Lord SanatKumar who is the physical representation of the divine knowledge or Brahmavidya. I began to think of Mother Narmada and Lord SanatKumar and fell off to sleep.

I slept till the wee hours of the morning. Upon coming out I saw that there was a dense fog that had engulfed everything around us. The vegetation on the shores was not visible. I went back into the boat and sat down. After some time when the fog cleared, I collected my things, hugged two of the boatmen and took my leave. I went down the wooden stairs and placed my feet on the southern banks of Narmada. The early morning sunrays penetrated the leaves and kissed the stone surfaces. Behind the sea lay the northern banks. I locked the happy memories of my experiences into the treasure chest of my mind and proceeded with greater enthusiasm to collect more of the same from the southern banks of Narmada. Today is the 1st day of the Bengali month Agrahayan (17.12.1954). With the chant of Reba in my tongue I came up from the sea-shore to the stony path that went towards the Vimaleshwar temple. I walked humming the song of offerings for the rising sun and reached the place in ten minutes. The ruins of the temple greeted my eyes and made me sad. The boat man was right; probably there was grandeur to this place once but at the moment everything was in a poor shape. Three supports made of khapral stone on three sides has ensured that the main temple would not fall down. If one proceeds through the main door one reaches a pond in which the Vimaleshwar Lingam resides. The great sage Markendaya had spoke of Vimaleshwar as follows: Once Uma, the wife of Lord Shiva had sent her consort to deceive the wives of the sages in the wooden forest (Daruvan). Shivas image was tarnished by this act and He had performed religious austerities here to become pure (Vimal). From then on he has been eternally residing here under the name of Vimaleshwar. Vimalahasou yato jatastenasau Vimaleshwarah Ten namna swayang tasthou lokanang hitakammaya (Rebakhand, section 226) I have also read in the Udyog section of the epic Mahabharata that Twasta, a member of the celestial clan Prajapati had given birth to a son called Trishira in order to defeat Indra, the king of Gods. Similar to the sun, moon and fire gods, Trishira had three faces. He used to recite the Vedas with one, drink liquor with another and with the third watch the world with an ever-steady gaze. Upon instructions from his father, Trishira performed austere penances to take over Indras position. However on knowing this, Indra panicked and killed him. Due to this grave sin of killing a Brahman Indra came to this place and meditated till his sins were forgiven. Even the sun god Surya and Brahma, one of the holy Trinity had performed religious austerities here. In addition, the sage Rishwashringa along with his wife Shanta had come here to perform penances to ward off sins accrued by eating the food meant for kings. He was the son of another great sage called Bihandak who was also responsible for conducting a divine ritual (yajna) called Putresti under the directions of king Dasharatha. Other circumambulators have told me that other than those mentioned above, several sages have, at different times, come to this spot for performing austerities to ward off their sins making this place truly remarkable in its abilities to cleanse one off his vices. Such is the fame of the place that be it the desire to remove the effects of transgressions committed in daily lives with and without intention or attaining success in meditation that has been long sought for, everyone says lets go to Vimaleshwar. The Lord would forgive all sins and purge all vices. To see the ruins of such a famous place made me extremely sad. Nevertheless, I entered

through the main door and offered my obeisance to the presiding deity of the temple. As soon as I stood up I heard someone laughing out loud shaking from head to toe. As I turned I saw a sage who asked me amidst his laughter: Patu Twam Girija Mata Jaswa Dwadashlochanah Athava Giri-Jamata Dwadashadurdhalochanah which meant that may the greatest of Gods,Shiva, who has more than twelve eyes and who is the son-in-law of the Himalayas protect you. So be it also with the God who is the son of mother Bhagavati and has a hundred faces (Sharanan) and possesses twelve eyes. Where do you live? Are you circumambulating the river (Parikramavasi)? Are you Bengali? he asked. I replied, Respected sir, you have asked a lot of questions! Just like you can hear me and tell that I am a Bengali, so can I from your accent that is like nectar to my ears. Although I never expected to see someone of my clan, having travelled so far from Bengal, but seeing you I am feeling a lot of elation in my heart. However, I have a humble question for you. In the Sanskrit phrase (shloka) you recited, you described Sharanan as having twelve eyes but we know that Shiva who has five faces (Panchanan) should possess five times three eyes (taking into account his additional third eye) which would number fifteen in all. Hence you could have simply said, Shiva the possessor of fifteen eyes; instead you stated a complicated riddle by mentioning that He has more than twelve eyes. What is the reason for this? Upon hearing me he started laughing again and replied, The shloka I recited is the first verse of the famous riddle-filled poem Kavyavidhagdhamukhamandam. Hence it would definitely have the complicated riddle pattern! Now tell me, are you circumambulating the river? I have noticed that you have arrived from Haridham in the northern banks and reached this place at five o clock in the evening yesterday. I was present with other ascetics in the same boat as you were. I had been on a trip to a place called Tabra in the northern side of the river. I have been touched by the emotions in your voice while you recited the prayers dedicated to the divine teachers (Gurus) at the spot where the river and seawaters merged. I had made up my mind to approach you and copy down what you had recited. However, I lost you in the commotion that ensued once the boat touched the shores. I thought to myself that whoever you were, you would definitely come to the temple of Vimaleshwar at least once. For that reason, I have been waiting here for you. Saying these words, he once again began to laugh out loud. I told him that I would talk to him later since I first needed to take a bath and offer my prayers to Lord Vimaleshwar. Do you know where I can take a bath? I asked. Dont do it in the well that is about fifty yards away from the temple. It contains salty water; but the pond that is near it contains pure and drinkable water. You can take a bath with that water. I will wait for you here he replied. I left my belongings there and took a towel and water pot (kamandalu) and proceeded towards the pond. After taking a bath I walked across the temple premises towards the sea. When there are high tides, the water levels reach the temple walls. Now the tides are low. I went into the seawater carefully and offered my regular prayers for the Sun God and my forefathers (Suryatarpan and

Pitritarpan) respectively. I came back to the ascetic and asked Doesnt any priest come to worship Vimaleshwar regularly? He replied, probably once a day, but there is not fixed schedule. I have heard that he lives a few miles away from here. The king of Barabani has donated a lot of property in the name of Lord Vimaleshwar. The priest is keener on farming and making use of those lands rather than engaging himself on doing his daily work of serving the Lord in the temple. However there is an outpost of Naga ascetics below the bridge across the street. At midday, three ascetics come from there to the temple. The small water-body in which the Shivalingam resides, has a connection to the sea. At noon, several smaller Shivalingams sputter out of this and the ascetics collect and return them. During festivals like Vyatipata-Yog (that herald inauspicious happenings), Shiva Chaturdashi (day before the new moon) or the Kartik and Baisaki (the seventh and first lunar months) Purnima (full moon day) there are fairs held at this place. During such events too, the Nagas stand guard with tridents and perform the task of returning the Shivalingams to where they belong. I have no clue to the mystery of this event that repeats itself between twelve and one at noon everyday. Neither do I know why the Nagas perform such a deed or who has instructed them such. However, I have been here on two previous occasions and have witnessed this happening. I remembered the goddess Narmada and went toward the Shivalingam with the Kamandul in hand. It was a beautiful. The part that was above water was yellow in colour and its sparkling radiance symbolic of Shivas grandeur captivated my mind. I sprinkled water on the Lingam, chanted the holy monosyllabic word (mantra) and prostrated before it. Following this, I began to recite the collection of one hundred and eight names of Mahadev (Shiva, the greatest of Gods) composed by the great sage Tandi; Om sthirah sthanuh Prabhubhimah Prabaro Barado Barah Sarvatma Sarvavikhyatah Sarva Sarvakaro Bhabah Jati Charmi Shikhandi cha Sarvanga Sarbabhanah Harashcha Harinakshascha Sarvabhutaharah Prabhuh.. etc. When the recitation was about to complete, I saw three Nagas had arrived. They were carrying tridents and as they circled the place they were loudly chanting Har Har Babam Mahadeo or Glory be to Lord Shiva. Within five minutes, Shivalingams began to be ejected from the water enclosure in twos and threes. Some of them fell into the water after coming out. The Nagas returned the ones that fell outside. I had finished by then. I sat with folded hands and watched the scene with amazement inwardly chanting the mantra that I was granted by my Guru. I noticed that the ones that fell outside were almost miniature versions of the main Vimaleshwar shivalingam! They shared the same color, signs and radiance. After several minutes the sputtering episode ended. The Nagas burnt some incense and offered it to the Lord. As everyone departed I realized that the sage I had met earlier was standing behind me and watching the whole event. Once the Nagas had left he said, Brother, would you kindly put your hand inside your kamandul and see if you can find a Shivalingam or not? I have clearly seen that one Shivalingam had fallen into your kamandul. The Nagas had missed it because there was once a burst of several Shivalingams and this was one of them. I put my hand inside in some disbelief and was astonished to find that indeed there was a Shivalingam inside my kamandul. I touched it to my forehead and fell into a trance. I placed it back in my kamandul and prostrated once again before

Bimaleshwar Shivalingam and offered my reverence. Tears were flowing down my cheek and I was shivering. My legs were trembling and the sage held me by hand and escorted me back to his temporary residence.