Good Food India

APRIL 2013
C 100
eat in7eat out7eat away
EAT OUT EAT AWAY MASTERCLASS
Pro vs
Punter,
Mi Maratha
On trial:
pizzerias
EATT AAWWAY
Australian
Eat like an
Srinagar on
your plate
RCLASS
Quick
fxes
710-minute meals
75-ingredient dishes
7How to use leftovers
7Feed a crowd
7Super easy puds
Vicky Ratnani's
poshed-up
sandwiches
Seasonal jackfruit
sensations
Fresh ways
with quinoa
80
In
d
ia
1
0
0
+
T
R
IP
L
E
-
T
E
S
T
E
D
R
E
C
IP
E
S
Koldo Royo's
seafood paella
from scratch p 142
Smoky tomato soup p 105
7
30 cut out & keep recipes p 101
For most of us there is a common bugbear while planning a meal
the length of time it will take to make. Regardless of your devotion
to foodie pursuits, even the most amazing recipe wont work if you
cant make time for it in your complicated life.
Easy is beautiful, as this edition proves. The 80-odd recipes that
follow ofer surere solutions for all your problems (in-laws, bad
boss and To Do list not included).
Fast, clever, easy Save time, energy and your sanity with our y
genius quick xes. From 10-minute meals and 5-ingredient
wonders to feed-a-crowd and using leftovers, this issue sparkles
with bright, efortless ideas to suit every occasion and energy
level (including no-cook dishes for the dog days). Asian prawn
omelette, gnocchi with lemon and chive pesto, salmon curry. These are exactly
the kind of dishes you want on your table on busy days. And dont even think about skipping
dessert. Our quick puds ensure the last course gets top billing.
April on your plate With an abundance of seasonal riches, April is one of the best times of
year for the greedy. Make the most of it with our feisty chutneys in a riot of avours. We also
put an unexpected spin on the jackfruit, or kathal r , with dishes that break this tropical fruits ll
humble mould. As our kitchen experiments prove, jackfruit is just as fabulous in
salads as it is in biryani, curries, stir fries and pie (yes, pie). As for that kul on p 78,
it fell straight from heaven.
Sandwich grows up This years chic sandwiches are all about artisanal breads,
inventive llings and inspiration from all over the globe. Vicky Ratnani celebrates
the wich craze thats taking our tables by storm. His xings give sandwiches an
adult appeal, showcasing their endless versatility and gourmet potential. Try his
Hip Street Sandwich, the rasta sandwich gone posh with a chilli-cilantro pesto a
twist. And the sea dog made with garlicky prawns, sweet chilli mayo and red
cabbage slaw. Hot dog? Whats that?
Pizza redux The pizza, like the sandwich, is having a star moment. Once regarded as
cucina povera (food of the poor), its haute reinvention has seen the arrival of posh pizzerias
serving not-so-regular slices. From the naan-like, charred texture of the Naples-style pizza at -
Mumbais Di Napoli to the half metre-long pies served at Pizza Metro Pizza, the new pizza
oozes snob value. San Marzano tomatoes for the sauce, imported Italian dough for the crust,
and the poshest cheeses, veggies and meats for the toppings. Turn to our Restaurant Spy on
p 110 for a denitive update.
Theres plenty more inspiration, including game-changing entrepreneurs who are raising the
food bar with their locally grown gourmet ingredients. And a great piece about local varieties
of Indian sh that can give any imported basa a run for its taste.
Enjoy this issue. Its all about vibrant colour, clever avour combos and respect for the
seasons best produce.
Sona Bahadur, editor h d r editor
Discover the surprising versatility of this deliciously stinky fruit in both its raw and ripe forms
Cooking with
JACKFRUIT
Recipes AMIT PAMNANI Photographs PRATEEKSH MEHRA Props courtesy THE SHOP, SANCTUM, FAB INDIA, LE MILL
The jackfruit can either be used when young and raw or when
it turns ripe and yellow. The
younger variety needs to be cooked before use, while the ripe one
can be eaten straight after it is
peeled. The meaty texture of raw jackfruit makes it a great substitute for meat. These recipes of er a
contemporary twist on the jackfruit, transforming it into something
exciting, colourful and fresh.
Amit Pamnani, Associate food editor, BBC Good Food Photograph SONA BAHADUR
L3 In Season r1.indd 72
F
t
t
c
omelette gno
The big easy
GOT 20 MINUTES
Ten youve go a
meal. Try this fesh
Cobb Salad. P 68
PIZZA ON TRIAL
Chek out six
hapening pizza
hospos with us. P 110
HUMBLE GONE
HAUTE
Jackfuits tropical
favour sings o hapy
summer days. P 72
Give your daily bread a gourmet makeover with these haute sandwiches that are anything but predictable wichcraft
Recipes VICKY RATNANI Photographs PRATEEKSH MEHRA
13/03/13 11:25 AM
eat in
weekend
Chicken parmigiana ciabatta with rocket and marinated tomatoes (recipe on p 92)
With these recipes
I have pushed the
boundaries of
traditional f llings to
create poshed-up
sandwiches. So go
ahead and experiment
with breads, spreads
and condiments.
Vicky Ratnani,
Head chef, Aurus, Mumbai
13/03/13 11:25 AM
SANDWICH
REINVENTED
Te new sandwiche
are anything but
basic. Chek out our
masterpiee. P 86
?
Chief Executive Officer Tarun Rai
Editor Sona Bahadur
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Contents
eat in eat out
Inspiring, seasonal recipes that
work every time
Restaurants on trial and cafs
with character
58 7 MEALS FOR ` 700
A weeks worth of stylish
meals
65 LUNCHBOX
Quick and wholesome
wraps
66 READY IN 20
Snappy recipes ready in
a jify
72 IN SEASON
Delicious jackfruit dishes
80 MODERN VEGGIE
Fresh ways with quinoa
86 WEEKEND
Sandwiches gone posh
94 SHOW-OFF COOKING
Ready in 30 desserts
101 QUICK FIXES
30 speedy meal ideas
110 RESTAURANT SPY
Pizzerias on trial
118 PRO VS PUNTER
Mumbais Mi Maratha
120 OFF THE EATEN
TRACK
Discover Mumbais Hotel
Deluxe
123 SIGNATURE DISH
Pesto Pestos Seafood Broth
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105
COOK
OUR
COVER
RECIPE!
110 58
PRO vs PUNTER
Feel like the average diner
doesnt always agree with
professional reviews?
Become our punter in the
Pro vs Punter section
and review a restaurant
along with a seasoned pro.
To apply, write to us at
bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in.
Smoky tomato soup
Serves 6 Q30 minutes Q EASY
Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE
onions 2, chopped
carrot 1, grated
celery 2 sticks, chopped
garlic 2 cloves, crushed
olive oil 2 tbsp
smoked paprika 2 tsp
tomatoes 800g, chopped
tomato pure 2 tbsp
vegetable stock 400ml
double cream 4 tbsp + extra to
serve
chives chopped, to serve
cheese toasties to serve
QCook the onion, carrot, celery
and garlic in olive oil, until
softened. Add the smoked paprika
and cook for a minute. Add the
tomatoes, pure and stock.
Simmer for 15 minutes or until the
vegetables are very soft.
QWhizz in a blender. Add the
double cream and whizz again.
Serve with an extra swirl of cream
and some chopped chives along
with warm cheese toasties.
QPER SERVING 138 kcals, protein
2.8g, carbs 10.1g, fat 9.6g, sat fat
4g, fibre 3.2g, salt 0.4g
P
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8 BBC GoodFood APRIL 2013
103
April 2013
eat away
Foodie holiday ideas and
recipes from around the world
126 EAT LIKE A LOCAL:
AUSTRALIA
Authentic recipes from
Down Under
132 CITY ON THE PLATE
SRINAGAR
Nosh your way around the
Kashmiri capital
137 BUDGET AND
BLOWOUT
PUDUCHERRY
An eaters guide to the
former French province
138 POSTCARD FROM
KUALA LUMPUR
Karen Anand discovers the
Malaysian capital
141 COOK LIKE A PRO
The perfect wok
142 MASTERCLASS
Koldo Royos step-by-
step seafood paella
146 DO IT YOURSELF
Tangy jackfruit chutney
147 WINE GUIDE
Discover New World
wines
154 LIFE ON THE
PLATE
Monica Dogra dishes
about food
masterclass
THE BBC GOODFOOD LEGACY
7BBC GoodFood is the UKs largest selling food magazine with
a readership of over 1.1 million.
7bbcgoodfood.com is the UKs most popular recipe site
attracting 3.7 million unique users per month.
7The hugely successful iPhone & iPad apps have had over
70,000 downloads till date.
rst bite
36 ON TEST
Ready-to-eat dal makhani
37 BARGAIN HUNTER
Best value foodie events,
meals and deals
38 NEED TO KNOW
The bounty of Indian sh
42 GROWN HERE, NOT
FLOWN HERE
Meet four pioneering food
entrepreneurs
50 FOOD ISSUE
We investigate articial
sweeteners
53 THE HEALTHY
INGREDIENT
Creamy and nutritious
avocados
54 BOOKS AND COOKS
Aprils must-read food
tomes
55 WHATS ON
Must-watch food TV
56 NIGHT OUT
Asian-inspired cocktails
148 SUBSCRIBE to
Good Food India
JUST A FEW GOOD PLACES TO EAT FEATURED THIS MONTH
Out & about
Q
Q
Puducherry
Goa
Bengaluru
Pune
Q
10 OVER TO YOU
Reader recipes, comments
and letters
27 FIRST BITE
Run riot with chutneys
30 NEWS, TRENDS AND
SHOPPING
New restaurants, trends we
like and more
Mozzarella and salami ciabatta
126
Delhi
Srinagar
Solan
Mumbai
Australia
Kuala Lumpur
Q
Q
Q
Q
Q
Q
Q
Q
Q
APRIL 2013 BBC GoodFood 9
Over to you
For top restaurant, recipe and travel tips, we ask you,
our readers, to keep us on the pulse
We love hearing from you. E-mail us your feedback,
your favourite recipes and your comments at
bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in. Lets be in touch!
Write to us!
Good Food reader Vrinda Bhageria d
on her favourite places to eat in the
capital city
7BREAKFAST For ` 475 you can have `
an unlimited king-size breakfast at All
American Diner (+011 4366 3333). Sample the freshly
baked bagels and croissants (both plain and whole wheat)
along with a huge bowl of crunchy muesli and fresh
juice. End your meal with the delicious chocolate or jam
doughnuts. You dont need to be an early riser as it is
open for breakfast all day. Meal for two ` 600. `
7LUNCH Perhaps the best way to binge on a budget is
to visit the legendary Andhra Bhavan (+91 - 23382031).
Opt for the unlimited South Indian thali comprising
uffy puris, two vegetarian curries, piping hot sambhar
and rasam, steamed rice and a sweet along with several
accompaniments. Dont forget to order the mutton fry
and prawn curry. Meal for two ` 200. `
7DINNER Head to the laidback Yeti (+91 -
43333618) for Tibetan cuisine.
Feast on Wai Wai noodles and
the Yeti Special thukpa. Those
who want to experiment can call for
phokso (goat meat) or shapta (buffalo
meat). Do not leave without having the
Vanilla Ice Cream with Honey-glazed Noodles.
Meal for two ` 900. `
FOOD NATIONDelhi
GOOD
FOOD
STAR
RECIPE
HOW YOU PIMPED IT
The kul recipe was exotic with the subtle
avours of the jackfruit. Since I could only
nd the crunchy, not-so-sweet variety, I
chopped up the entire quantity. I cooked it
with jaggery, then added dry ginger powder
with cardamom and skipped the saffron. I
reduced the condensed milk to balance the sweetness. I used
fresh cream and toasted cashews instead of pistachios.
Smitha George is a recipe developer and blogs at
myfoodtrolley.wordpress.com. She lives in Gurgaon.
JOIN OUR TASTE TEAM
Our Taste Team comprises readers and home cooks
who try our recipes and give us feedback on what they
liked and what they would do differently. Write to us at
bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in to join us.
Jackfruit kul
Serves 4 Q30 minutes + overnight
freezing QEASY
ripe jackfruit 100g, peeled and
aked
milk 220ml
condensed milk 100g
saffron a pinch
sugar 30g
cornflour 10g
pistachios 2 tbsp, chopped
QPure half the jackfruit and chop
the remaining half. Keep aside.
QPut 200ml milk and the
condensed milk in a pan and
bring to a boil. Once boiled, simmer
and add saffron, sugar and the
jackfruit pure. Cook for 10 minutes.
QMix the cornour with 20ml milk
and add to the pan. Let it cook for
5 more minutes and then switch
off the gas. Add pistachios and the
chopped jackfruit. Mix well. Let it
cool for 20 minutes and then pour
into kul moulds. Freeze overnight
and serve.
QPER SERVING 195.25 kcals, protein
2.60g, fibre 0.73g, salt none
over to you
readers write
READER RECIPE OF THE MONTH
Orange rind fruitcake
Serves 6Q1 hour + standing time QEASY
cranberries 25g
glazed cherries 50g
blackcurrants 25g
sultanas 25g
orange peel 2 tbsp
dark rum 5 tbsp
orange juice 1/4 cup
refined flour 125g + extra for dusting
baking soda 1/4 tsp
baking powder 1/2 tsp
butter 125g + extra for greasing
demerara sugar 200g
eggs 4
icing sugar 50g r
QSoak the cranberries, half of the glazed
cherries, blackcurrants, sultanas and
orange peel in the rum and orange juice
What is your
go-to quick fix
when pressed
for time?
% % % Salads
Wraps Sandwiches
Stir fry %
INSIDERS
POLL
Interact with other Good Food readers on Facebook
at facebook.com/GoodFood MagazineIndia or follow
us on Twitter at twitter.com/goodfoodmagin.
The winner of the letter of the month for this
issue wins a special festive hamper worth `
5,000 from Foodhall. The hamper is filled with
tempting goodies like Kalamata olives, extra
virgin olive oil, penne rigate, basil crackers,
chocolate fondue, Lemnos jalapeno cream
cheese and Jamie Olivers chilli salt. To
write in to the magazine, e-mail
us at bbcgoodfood@
wwm.co.in and
include your
address and
telephone
number.
Dear Editor,
All I can say is wat perfec pppppppp ay pp fec fe rfe f
timing! I couldnt have asked for u ouldnt ha d for ff dd sked sk ask
more. Te feature on how to bake perfec bread
in the March 2013 isue o BBC Good Food has
been eremely handy. Te moment I laid my
hands on this isue, I immediately tried the
wite bread and the focaccia, and have paed
with fying colours. My condence is now
taking me to the ne level and Im heading
towards geing innovative by incorporating
cheee and sausage in the bread. Te 7 meals
for 700 rupee feature is great for an everyday
one-dish meal. Tank you so much for fxing
my monthly agenda for food. Looking forward
to your ne isue!
- Meeu Mahajan, Jalandhar
LETTER
OF THE
MONTH
The winner of the Reader Recipe of the Month wins a special gift
hamper worth ` 2,000 from Dalmia Continental Pvt Ltd (DCPL), `
a leading company of premium wellness foods. The hamper
contains an array of products from DCPLs Leonardo
brand, such as extra virgin olive oil, olive pomace oil, whole
wheat pasta, premium pasta, premium pickle in olive oil,
pimento stuffed olives, black sliced olives and two recipe
booklets.
Anjali Kejriwal is a
high school student
living in Kolkata and
loves to bake. She
shares the recipe of
orange rind fruitcake.
over two nights. Preheat the oven at
200C. Sift the our, baking soda and
baking powder together.
QBeat the butter and sugar together.
Beat the eggs and fold in the butter
mixture. Mix well. Add the fruit mixture to
the butter mixture and gently fold in with
a spoon. Fold in the our and mix using a
whisk till no lumps remain and the batter
is thick and uniform.
QGrease a tin with butter and dust with
our. Pour the batter into the tin and
bake at 200C for the rst 15 minutes
and at 180C for the next 25 minutes. r
QInvert the cake and nish with the
remaining cherries and icing sugar.
In this issue
KOLDO ROYO
Koldo Royo is a Michelin-starred chef and the co-owner of
an eponymous restaurant on the island of Mallorca in Spain.
Since it opened in 1989, the restaurant specialises in simple
yet distinctive Mediterranean cuisine inuenced by Basque
avours with a focus on high-quality ingredients. Royo gives
us a taste of his culinary style with his step-by-step Seafood
Paella in Masterclass on p 142.
KALYAN KARMAKAR
lyan Karmakar is a food and travel blogger who describes
mself as a market researcher by profession and foodie by
igion. He writes about his food experiences on his blog,
nely Chopped
. In this issue, Karmakar takes you on a journey d

discover the culinary treats on offer at Mumbais Hotel
luxe in Off the Eaten Track on
p 120.
SANJIV VALSAN
Sanjiv Valsan is a freelance photographer, travel writer and
documentary lm researcher based in Mumbai. He counts

several hotels, restaurants, publications, production houses
hotels and non-prot organisations among his clients. Valsa
considers food and adventure as his particular weaknesses
and specialises in them. He shot the photographs of Indian

sh featured in Need to Know on p 38.
SANGRAM SAWANT
Sangram Sawant is the founder of
Pesca Fresh, one of the countrys
rst organised seafood distribution
and retailing companies based in
Mumbai. Sawant cultivated a passion
for seafood while working with Great
Northern Products, a seafood-focused
company based in the United States.
He has pioneered the introduction of
several new species such as mahi mahi,
swordsh, tilapia and Asian sea bass in
Mumbai. Sawant gives you the lowdown
on Indian sh in Need to Know on p 38.
VICKY RATNANI
Vicky Ratnani is a chef, television
anchor and culinary consultant based
in Mumbai. He graduated from the
Institute of Hospitality Management
in Mumbai and is currently Corporate
Chef, Fine Dining at Dish Hospitality,
the company that owns and manages
a number of restaurants in India
including Aurus. Ratnani gives
sandwiches a sophisticated makeover
in Weekend on p 86.
rst bite
news, trends, shopping
first bite
Chutney Nation
FLAVOUR BOMBS
Chutneys have always
been an integral part of
any Indian meal.
Travel to any state
of India and the local
cuisine will have several
chutneys innate to that
region. They impart
tanginess, spiciness or
sweetness to any meal.
And unlike pickles, they
can be used as sandwich
fillings, dips, marinades
or simply enjoyed
on their own. These
chutneys last up to three
days in the fridge or
up to a month in the
freezer.
Recipes
AMITPAMNANI
Photographs
PRATEEKSHMEHRA
Rustleupthese
brilliant Indian
chutneys ina
riot of perkycolours
andflavours
Giveyour dailybreadagourmet makeover withthesehautesandwichesthat areanythingbut predictable
wichcraft
RecipesVICKYRATNANI PhotographsPRATEEKSHMEHRA
Kuala Lumpur
Wordsandphotogr Wordsandphotogr rdsandphotogr and aan aphsKARENANAND aphsKARE hsKARENANAN
Food writer, Food writer, d writer,
entrepreneur entrepreneur entrepreneur
and gourmet, met and gourmet,
KKaren Anan ren Anand en Anand KK
has journey has journeyed as journeye
across ss
the world world rld
writing abou writing about writing about
gastronomy. gastronomy. gastronomy
PPPPPPooooossssstttttccccccaaarrrddd fffrrrooommm
K l L L
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Givefined Givefined Givefined ned e iningamis iningamis amis ning nn sandhit t sandhit t sandhit thehawker s ehawker s hehawker stallstosa tallstosa tall tosssavour theau our theau r thea thentic thentic hentic
flavoursof flavoursof flavoursof theMalays theMalays theMalaysiancapital iancapital iancapital
TTT
hree da hree days in Kual Kua ee days in Kua uu a
Lumpur sounds l Lumpu Lumpur sounds ike e
the start of a He the start of a He of the start of a H mingway mingway ming
novel. It is a hu . It is a hu ovel. It is a humid, mid mid,
rowded city, ove crowded city, ove rowded city, overrun by buildings rrun by buildings rrun by buildings,,
yovers and malls yovers and malls yovers and malls. I visited it la . I visited it la . I visited it last st s
several years ago everal years ago several years ago, when we came when we came as , when we came as
a family to watch a family to watch a family to watch the Formula 1 at the Formula 1 at the Formula 1 at
Sepang. One thing Sepang. One thing Sepang. One thing that has remaine that has remaine hat has remaine ne as remainedddddd
constant despite constant despite nstant despite all the cha all the change all the change is the the the
food Kuala Lump food Kuala Lump od Kuala Lumpur is all about g ur is all about g ur is all about grea reat reat
food, whether it ood, whether it food, whether its street food, re s street food, re s street food, restaurant staurant stauran
food or casual di food or casual di or casua ning.Today, the ning.Today, the T d th ccity ty
rivals Singapore ivals Singapo rivals Singapore as the culinary c as the culinary c the apital apital tal
of Asia. of Asia. of Asia.
I check into check into check into the newly refurbishe refurb newly refurbished
Le Meridien (leme Le Meridien (leme Le Meridien (lemeridienkualalumpur ridienkualalumpur ridie ..
com) right opposi com) right opposi com) right opposite the Sentral ra te the Sentral ra te the Sentral railway ilw ilway
station, which is station, which is station, which is a convenient way a convenient way a convenient way to to to
connect to the ai onnect to the ai connect to the airport and much rport and much be rport and much better ter tter
than taking a tax than taking a tax than taking a taxi.The lobby area i.The lobby area i.The lobby area of of
the hotel is now the hotel is now otel is now known as the Hub. known as the H known as the Hub.
Le Meridien foll Meridien follo Meridien follows a philosophy ws a philosophy ws a philosophy
creating a com of creating a com f creating a com om a com ommunity of creativ munity of creativ nity of creativ munity of creative e e
people and people and cultur ople and cultur d cultur ur l al innov al innovators to al innovators to l
produce new artis roduce new artis duce ce new artis ew artis rtistic tic projects, whi tic projects, whi tic pro ch ch ch h
includes cuisine ncludes cuisine es cuisine ine and wine in add and wine in addit and wine in add and wine in and wine in addit a ion on
to theatre and ar and art.This initiativ t This initiativ t This initiat e, e
known as the LM10 known as the LM10 LMM LM 0, is helmed by 0, is helmed by
Jrme Sans, a F Jrme Sans, a F rme Sans, a Fr Jrme Sans, a Fr me Sans, a Fr a ench art curator ench art curator ench art curator who who
serves as the Mer as the Mer serves as the Mer ves as the Mer rves as the M idiens global cu idiens global cu idiens global cultural ltural ltural
curator. A curator. As a res rator. As a res tor. curator. A ult, the Meridien ult, the Meri the Meridien in
Kuala Lumpur Kuala Lumpur is a uala Lumpur is a la L Kuala L r is an arty space with n arty space with n arty space with arty a a
magn magni magnicent chocol magnicent chocol icen ate lounge known ate lounge known ate lounge known as as as
Art Cacao, a bar Art Cacao, a ba Art Cacao, a and a gastro pu and a gastro pub nd a gastro pub tha that t
a replaces the trad places the trad he he itional cofee s itional cofee sho nal cofee shop. p. It It
s an exciting id is an exciting id is an exciting idea and those int ea and those inte a and a and those inte n re rested ed ested dd
in the new fronti in the new fronti new frontiers of hospitali ers of hospitalit ers s of hospitali s of hospitalit s y w y will
embrace the ch embrace the chan brace the changee. e.
In my room In my ro In my roomupstai pstai airs, i , instead of rs, instead of s, instead of r
ring fruit the boring fru the boring frui basket or chocola sket or choco ket or chocolates tes
wrapped in cling wrapped in cling wrapped in cling g lm, there are ha lm, there are lm, the lm, there are ha nd- nd
broken bars of ch broken ba oken bar rs of ch a oc ocolate studded w e studded w cco colate studde ith ith ith
whole nuts such a whole nuts such a whole nuts such a ole nuts hole nuts e nu s macadamia and s macadamia and s macadamia
hazelnuts on one zelnuts o hazelnuts on one ts s day and fresh fru day and fresh fru ay and fresh fruit on it on it on
an old-fashioned an old-fashioned an old-fashione
weighing scale, weighing scale, weighing s weighing scale,
the next. At e next. At the next. At nn x
Sentral, Gastro Sentra G t entral al,
the hotels the hote the hotels gastr s gast gastr stro pub o pub, executive pub, executive ub chef chef ef
Antoin Antoine brings so Antoine brings A toine brings some real home styl me real home styl eal ll e real home sty ee
French specialiti French specialiti cial es to KL at bre es to KL at bre es to KL at breakf akfast,
apart fromcroiss apart fr part f apart f ois ants, he a ants, he also dis ants, he also di he hes es
out some excellen out som out some excellen cellent local specialit t local specialit t local special ies ies
such as such as uch as nasi lemak lemak lema . Often called th . Often called th Often called the e
national dish of national dish of national dish of Malaysia, Malaysia, Malaysia, nasi lemak nasi lemak nasi lemak
is in fact a brea is in fact a brea is in fact a bre kfast dish. It is t dish. It is fast dish. It is mmade made
of rice cooked in rice cooked in rice cooked in coconut milk and coconut milk and coconut milk and
pandan leaves, se pandan leaves, se served with sambal, rved with sambal, rved with sambal,
anchovies and pea anchovies a es and pea anc p nuts a bit of a a bit of nu
shy mouthful in shy mouthf shy mouthful in uthfu hf thful in the morning but the morning but ning
undoubtedly delic undoubtedly deli ndoubtedly iiciiiou ious.
To discover the v To discover the v discover the variety of Kuala ariety of Kuala ariety of Kuala
Lumpurs culinary Lumpurs culin mpurs culina oferings in a si ferings in a s ferings in a sing ngle ngle
place, we head to he ace, we head to Lot 10 Hutong fo Lot 10 Hutong fo Lot 10 Hutong food od od
court (50 Jalan S (50 J l S ourt (50 Jalan Sultan Ismail;Tel ultan Ismail;Tel ultan Ismail; :: +603 : +603
2143 6092), 2143 6092), located in the basemen in the basemen the basementt
of a busy and fas of a busy and fas of a b hionable stre hionable stretch nabl of
Bukit Bi BBukit Bintang. Lot 10 is diferent is diferent 10 is diferent
because it serves because it serves because i pork, which a lo pork, which a loot of t of
other Muslimfood other Muslimfood other Muslimfood courts dont. In courts dont. In ont. In
fact, Lot 10 is M fact, Lot 10 is M fact, Lot 10 is Malaysias rst no alaysias rst no ysias rst non- nn-
halal food court al food court halal food court. It brings togeth t brings toget s together er
hawker stalls fro hawker stalls fro hawker stalls fromall over the mall over the co ll th mall over the c ll untry untry untry
in one charming, n one charming, in one charming, Chinese teahouse Chinese teahouse hinese teahouse
ambience. In addi ambience. In addi ambie ambience. In a In ad tion, it is tion, it is t i
air-conditioned air-conditioned ondition
a huge plus a huge plus a huge plus uge pl
in this city.You this city.You this city.You
can nd all of can nd all of can nd all of
KLs favourite Ls f KLs favourit
dishes here rot dishes here rot s here r hes h hh ii
can canai can n and ro and roti and roti nd roti i jala jala ala a
(lacy pancak (lacy pancakes); cy pancakes); cy pancake cy pancak
chicken curry and chicken curry and ken cur ken cur ke
Asamlaksa; beef Asamlaksa; beef mlaksa; beef a; be b
P h o t o c o u r t e s y T O
P
U R I S M M A L A Y S I A
t
P h o t o c o u r t
o u
P h o t o c o u c o
e s y T O U R I S M
R I S
y T O U R
e s y
U R
y T O U
A Y
A L A Y
M A L A
M A
S I A
S I A S I A
S I A
Seafood paella
Serves 4Q45minutes
Q MODERATELYEASY
sea bass 200g, deboned and skinned
squid 200g, cleaned and skinned
prawns 200g
olive oil 2 tbsp
garlic cloves 2, nely chopped
romano flat green beans or French r
beans a handful, chopped
saffron 5g
tomatoes 2, peeled and pured
sweet paprika 1 tbsp (try Keya
available at gourmet stores)
bomba rice 400g, boiled (try De Cecco
fish broth 1.5l
salt to season
EXCLUSIVE
STEP-BY-STEP
RECIPE
KOLDO ROYOS
Masterclass
Michelin-starredchef KoldoRoyofromKoldoRoyoinSpainmakeshis
signaturestep-by-stepseafoodpaella
RecipeKOLDOROYOPhotographsARVINDCHENJI
Get to know us
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Heres what you can expect to see in every issue of Good Food India:
7First Bite
Our opening section is the perfect appetiser for the pages that follow.
First Bite brings you the months freshest food buzz new launches,
events, great bargains, supermarket sweeps, health tips on food and
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Know. And our Good Food Investigates pieces delve deep into important
food issues to bring you insights that really matter to you. P 27
7Eat In
The largest section of the magazine, Eat In is packed with fabulous recipes
with little tips and tricks that are perfect for the home cook. Each recipe is
triple-tested by us so you get it right the very first time you make it. Weve
got everything covered from easy everyday dinners and show-off menus
for the weekend to modern veggie dishes and barbecue recipes bursting
with flavours. P 57
rst bite
Dip right in!
Feistychutneys teamedwithearthykhakras spell jaded-palatenirvana
Peanut chutney
Makes 1 bowl Q5minutes QEASY
QPut 1 cup peeled, roasted peanuts,
2-3 peeled garlic cloves, 1 tsp chilli
powder, 1 tbsp lemon juice and salt in a
blender. Add a little water, just enough to
make a thick chutney. Blend until smooth.
QPERSERVING221.75kcals, protein
2.58g, fibre 3.43g, salt 0.1g
Dry coconut and garlic
chutney
QDry roast 1 cup freshly grated
coconut or dried desiccated
coconut, 2 tsp red chilli powder,
2-3 sliced garlic cloves, 1 tsp each
of turmeric powder, coriander powder,
cumin powder and fennel seeds for
approximately 5minutes in a non-stick
pan on slowheat. Add 1 tsp salt and mix
well. Allowto cool. Blend the mixture in a
mixer without adding any water.
1.78g, carbs 45.23g, fat 8.15g, sat fat 7.05g,
fibre 2.63g, salt 0.6g
Papad chutney
QRoast 5-6 papads on a hot griddle.
Deep fry 1 sliced onion in 100ml oil until
golden. Roast 1 tbsp sesame seeds on
a griddle. Crush the papad roughly with
your hands. Put the crushed papad, fried
onions and sesame seeds along with a
pinch of salt, 1 tsp red chilli powder and
1 tsp amchoor powder in a blender and
blend until it resembles a coarse powder.
QPERSERVING262.75kcals, protein 1.65g,
carbs 5.53g, fat 26.58g, sat fat 1.70g, fibre
1.38g, salt 0.1g
Avla chutney
QRoughly chop 3 avlas. Mix 2 tbsp
chopped coriander, 1 chopped green
chilli, salt to taste, 1 tbsp peeled
peanuts, 1 tsp roasted sesame seeds,
1 peeled garlic clove and 1 tsp sugar
with the avla. Put all the ingredients in
a blender with a little water, just enough
to make a thick chutney. Blend until
smooth.
QPERSERVING38kcals, protein 1.08g,
1.38g, salt none
Beetroot chutney
QRoughly chop 1 peeled beetroot
and 1/2 peeled onion. Mix 2 chopped
green chillies, 2 tbsp mint leaves,
2 peeled garlic cloves, 5-6 curry
leaves, a pinch of salt and 1 tsp
lemon juice together. Add 1 tbsp
cashewnuts and 1 tsp sugar.
Combine all the ingredients in a
blender and add a little water, just
enough to make a thick chutney.
Blend until smooth.
Rawmango chutney
Makes 1 bowl Q10minutes
QEASY
QRoughly chop 1 rawmango without
peeling it. Mix 1/4 chopped onion,
3 tbsp freshly grated coconut or
dried desiccated coconut,
2 chopped green chillies, 2 chopped
garlic cloves and 1 tsp lemon juice.
Add a pinch of salt, 1 tsp chilli
powder and 1 tbsp sugar. Combine
all the ingredients in a blender with
a little water, just enough to make a
thick chutney. Blend until smooth.
In my roomupstairs, instead of the boring
fruit basket or chocolates wrapped in cling
lm, there are hand-broken bars of chocolate
studded with whole nuts such as macadamia
and hazelnuts on one day and fresh fruit on
an old-fashioned weighing scale, the next.
eat away
postcard
and chicken satay and chicken satay chicken satay;; popiah popiah opiah or pancakes or pancakes or pancakes hh
stufed with veget with veget ufed with vegetables, seafood an ables, seafoo ables, seafood andd
chicken; chicken; mee g mee goreng mee goreng (or fried noodle (or fried noodle (or fried noodles); s); gg
beef beef rendang rendang rendang, ggggg nasi goreng nasi goren nasi , gg char kuey teow char kuey teow har kuey teo
(stir-fried noodl (stir-fried noodl ir-fried noodles) and my fa es) and my favori my es) and my favorite, te,
bak kut teh bak kut teh ak kut teh a sort of herb a sort of herb a sort of he al, aromatic al, aromatic hh
pork stew. Some pork stew. Some pork stew. Some names to watch ou names to watch ou mes to watch tt
for in Lot 10 are for in Lot 10 are r in Lot 10 are Klang Bak kut te Klang Bak kut te g Bak Bak ku Klang Bak kut teh and h and h an
HoWeng KeeWonto HoWeng KeeWont Weng KeeWonton Noodles, rat n Noodles, rated WWo
as one of the fou as one of the fou of the fo e of the o r best noodle pla r best noodle pla noo ces c ur be
in Malaysia. The h in Malaysia. The in Malaysia. Thee specialities inc specialities inc special sp specialitie s lude dde lu pe pecial
the ve-spice be he ve-spice bee the ve-spice beef brisket (fatty f brisket (fatt brisket (fatty but but but et (fatty but
very tasty) very tasty) very tasty) very tasty) and t ry tasty) and t very tasty) and the braised pork r he braised pork he braised pork rib in ib in
black bean sauce ack bean sauce an sau n bean noodles. KongTai noodles. KongTai oodles. KongTai is ss
famous for prawn famous for prawn us for prawn noodles and frie noodles and fried noodles and fried dd
oysters.Then you oysters.Then you oysters.Then you have Ice Room have Ice Room, ave Ice Room
where shaved ice here shaved ic here shaved ice (locally known as (locally known as (locally known as
ais ais s kkacang k ) is topped with ) is topped with is topped with fresh fruit fresh frui fresh fruit gg
pu pure and beans an e and beans an e and beans an acquired taste. acquired taste. acquired taste
The pictures on t The pictures on t e pictures on the walls show the he walls show the e walls show th
owners of stalls wners of st wners of stal f with local celeb with local celebr al celebrities iti s
and the prices ar and the prices ar he prices ar h e astoundin stoundingly e astoundingly
reasonable. If y reasonable. If y onable. If you ask politely, ou ask politely, ou ask theyy nabb k poli p
will even bring t ill even bring t ill even bring the dishes to he dishes to your dishes to y tabl ab ble e eve table able
so you dont have so you dont have u dont have y to queue up. It to queue up. It to queue up. It . It is iis i so yo y up. It is u
advisable to go i d advisable to g advisable to g advisable to go i advisable to g n a large group a n a n a large group l s we s d rge g ge
do portions are do portions are portions are p do portions are p large and you ca large and you ca rge and you c nn
try a variety of y a variety ety of riety of ety of dishes. dis she dishes
Clockwise from Clockwise Clockwise fro
facing page: facing page: acing pa
Kuala Lumpu Kuala Lumpur a Lump
is overrun by s overrun by errun by
skyscrapers; skyscrapers; skyscrapers;
The shaved ice he shaved ice The shaved ice
dessert, ssert, ert, ais ais
kacang kacang ang is an s an s a g
acquired taste; cquired tast acquired tast ed taste; d e t ed acquire u
ing Street Petaling Street Petaling S Petali
is home to s is home to
Kuala Lumpurs Kuala Lumpurs Kuala Lumpurs umpurs um u
na Chinat Chinatown; hina na own; n Chinat
The Hub at L he Hub at Le Le
Meridien; The Meridien; The Meridien; The n; The n T e
Lot 10 food court Lot 10 food court Lot 10 food c food od Lot 10
offers authentic offers authentic ers authentic
Malaysian fare; Malaysian fare Malaysian fare; an fare; an r si
Satay is a popu atay is a popula Satay is a popular r is a p Satay
treet snack street snack st ck
Other than the sh her than the sh Other than the shopping, which opping, wh opping, w
is stupendous, th tupendous, th tupendous, the cant-miss loca e cant-miss loca e cant-miss local ll
attractions are t attractions are t attractions are the Central Market he Central Market he Central Market
and Royal Selango and Royal Selango Royal Selangor. Central Market r. Central Market r. Central M
(centralmarket.co entralmarket.co centralmarket.com.my) is 120 year m.my) is 120 year m.my) is 120 ye s
old. Originally a old. Originally a old. Originally a wet market, it n wet market, it n wet market, it now ow ow
houses a whole bu houses a whole bu houses a whole bu ee nch of stores fro nch of stores nch of stores frommm houses a whole bun
tacky souvenir sh tacky souv tacky souvenirr shops to stores sto s to stores sto es stocking ccking to store ops
genuin genuine crafts fr genuine crafts omthe region. Do omthe region. Do omthe region. Dont nt t n gion. Don n
miss the art/craf miss the art/craf miss the art/craft gallery (annexe t gallery (anne t gallery (annex gallery. llery. gallery l cr miss the art/craft ss
com) on the secon com) on the secon m) on the second oor. Central d oor. Central d oor. Central oor d second
Market is a good Market is a good Market is a good place to pick up place to pick place to pick up to pick up
anything froma c anything froma c ything froma c m oconut button b oconut button bag oconut button bag to g to ag ba ba m anything froma th t
a bamboo fan. a bamboo fan a
The Royal Selango e Royal Selango lango l S r showroom r showroom r showroom r showroom
(royalselangor.co yalselangor.co selangor.co ( m) is a complete m) is a comple m) is a complete ee or (royalselangor.com a y
surprise. I have se. I have surprise. I have seen pewter store seen pewter store er stores ss pew p e seen
at airports befor rports bef ports bef e but never reall never reall never reallyy y ever really
understood what a understood what all the fuss is ab ll the fuss is ab uss is ab i ou out. ut. t. out
Pewter is an allo er is an allo Pewter is an alloy of tin, copper y of tin, copper y of tin, copper pp and andd
P h o t o c o u r t e s
o t o c o u r t e s y
P h o t o c o u r t e s y
h o t o c o u r t e s y T O U R
T O U R I S M M A L A Y S I A
M M A L A Y S I A
I S M
masterclass
chef skills
eat in
weekend
With these recipes
I have pushed the
boundaries of
traditional fllings to
create poshed-up
sandwiches. So go
and condiments.
Vicky Ratnani,
7Eat Out
This section stands out for its uniquely-positioned restaurant reviews
and features that are authoritative, objective and reliable. A novel approach
to restaurant reviews, our Pro vs Punter section enables a Good Food India
reader to go undercover and rate a restaurant together with an expert. Plus,
we get leading chefs from around the country to simplify their signature
recipes to make at home. P 109
7Eat Away
Our seasoned travel journalists and food experts (who are often residents of
the featured locations) arm you with insider information and recipes from
the worlds most exciting food destinations. Eat Like A Local brings easy,
authentic menus from fantastic food destinations while Budget and Blowout
shows you how to get your wallets worth when travelling. And City On the
Plate features the insiders food guide to an Indian state. P 125
7Masterclass
Learn to cook like a pro in our Masterclass section. Pick up cooking lessons
directly from culinary masters in India and abroad. Make restaurant-
perfect dishes and pick up fine dining finishing touches of chefs through
illustrated step-by-step recipes in Chef Skills. We also feature nifty kitchen
gadgets that sharpen your kitchen skills and our 10-minute wine guide is
perfect for wine lovers. P 141
A taste of Kerala
Hotel Deluxe
FewplacesinMumbai canclaimtooffer atrulyauthentictasteof Kerala
likeDeluxe, ano-frillsjoint intheheart of themaximumcitysFort district
WordsKALYANKARMAKARPhotographsBAJIRAOPAWAR
F
ort was once the hub of
Mumbai, the nucleus of
FF
the city, the commercial
FFdistrict and the economic
powerhouse of the nation.Today, it
lives as much in the past as in the
present. New commercial hubs have
cropped up all over Mumbai and Fort
is a shadow of its former glory.Thats
not the end of this story though.
Awalk through the historic
district is like travelling in time.
The surroundings tell the tale of
Indias transition fromBritish rule to
Independence.Temples, mosques,
churches and synagogues capture
the diversity that lies at the heart of
Mumbai. So do the restaurants.
The lanes of Fort are dotted
with restaurants, many more than
half-a-century old.These are the
places that have fuelled the worker
bees of Mumbai. Since almost every
community that worked in Fort had
their favourite pit stops, you will nd
Gomantak, Mangalorean, Gujarati,
Irani, Udipi, Malvani and Malayali
joints here. However, south Indian
restaurants fromacross the four states
dominate the landscape.
South Indians formed a large part
of the workforce in newly independent
India and several eateries came up to
sustain them. Street lore has it that the
chief minister of Kerala visited Fort in
the 1960s and inaugurated a restaurant
called Lalit.Today, you will nd two
or three restaurants bearing the same
name in this area.You will also come
eat out
of the eaten track
across a restaurant calledTheTaste of
Kerala, a vegetarian, south Indian thali
lunch home called Gopalashramand
the grandly named Hotel Deluxe.
According to Chandrahas, a waiter
who has worked at the restaurant for
more than a decade, Deluxe has been
around for a long time. About 50
years, he hazards a guess and breaks
into a smile, fromthe time when gang
lords like Haji Mastan and Mudaliar
ruled the streets of Mumbai.
Deluxe was started by Hussein Haji,
the father of the current owners Asraf
and Naseer, who is said to have hailed
fromKasargod in Kerala. It started
as a hole-in-the-wall joint in the same
place where the restaurant stands today.
Old-timers who love their meat swear
by the beef fry and parotta at this newly a
refurbished restaurant.
A narrow staircase takes you to
the rst oor, which also includes an
air-conditioned section. Go for the
food, not the frills.The ambience may
be nothing to write home about, but
the service is warmand friendly. As
the waiters get to knowyou, they will
welcome you with a smile and seat
you as soon as possible.When you
become a regular, they might slip you
a complimentary glass of piping hot
rasamand even the occasional piece of
fried sh. Malayalamis the dominant
language of conversations, which tells
you that this is where patrons from
the state come for their x of home
food. It is also the best indicator of the
authenticity of the dishes.
If there were one compelling reason
for you to visit Deluxe, it would be
the famous sadhya. A sadhya (which
means banquet in Malayalam) is an
elaborate vegetarian meal fromKerala
traditionally served on a
banana leaf. Some credit
it to the Hindu Brahmin
Namboodiri or Nair
communities but it is also
served in Deluxe, a Muslim-
owned restaurant.
Tthe waitstaf are happy
to explain the dishes to you
in Hindi. In classic Indian
tradition, the best way to
Top 5 dishes to try
at Hotel Deluxe
7Parotta
7Kappa biryani
7Prawns roast
7Karimeen tawa fry
7Beef masala Hotel Deluxe has mastered the art of perfectly fried fish
eat in
show-of
Pears wi Pe th speed speedy choc y cho sauce
Serves 4 Q10 minutes 0 minute QEASY
pear halves i pear halves in syru n syrup 2 x 400g can x 400g cans chocolate chocola 100g, ch 100g, chopped into sm o small all chunks (try M ry Moorde or Valrhona available at gourme met stores)
vanilla ice cream 8 scoops 8scoops
hazelnuts 2 tbsp, toasted and choppe d ch d
QDrain the pears over a small pan. l Divide them between 4 dessert glasses se or bowls. Boi or bowls. Boil the syrup o l the syrup on n a high heat until reduced and thick. T and thick Taake ke off the off the heat and stir in the chocolate until melted. ed.
REALLY R
REALLY
EASYY
Recipe LUCY NETHE
Recipe LUCY NETHE
R
ph WILL H
RTON Photograph WILL HEAP Styling JENNY IGG
EAP Styling JENNY IGG
EN Food styling JO H
ood styl
EN F
E
LEDEN
LEDE
L
ARRIS
QAdd 2 scoops of ice cream onto each each each e portion of pe pp ars and pour over the ho ot t chocolate sauce. Top wi . Top wth the choppe e hopped d nuts.
QPER SERVING 354 kcals, protein 4g, carbs 53g, fat 15g, sat fat 8g, fibre 3g, sugar 51g, salt 0.19g
010-013-L2 show-off-STAN R1.indd 95
How to get the best
from Good Food India
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We hope you enjoy our lively mix of recipes, restaurant
reviews and travel features. We attempt to make them
fun to read, but we are also serious about eating well and
doing it sustainably. Heres what you can expect from this
and every issue:
TRIPLE-TESTED RECIPES All our recipes are tested
at least three times. For great results, we recommend
you use standard level measuring spoons, and dont mix
imperial and metric measures.
EASY RECIPES Most of Good Foods recipes are quick
and simple to follow and can be made using easily
available ingredients.
THE ODD CHALLENGE Weekends are perfect for
elaborate meals and entertaining. Weve included a
smattering of show-off recipes for those who enjoy a
good challenge.
GOOD VALUE Look out for our recipes that aim to make
the most of your budget 7 meals for ` 700. We also use `
full packs, cans and jars where we can, to avoid waste,
but if thats not possible we aim to suggest ways of using
up leftovers.
SEASONAL EATING We love using seasonal ingredients
in our recipes because they give the food a distinct
avour and add seasonal freshness. This month, were
eating a lot of jackfruit.
HEALTHY EATING We reckon the 80% sensible, 20%
indulgent way of eating is best which is why we support
our recipes with nutritional info. Well also tell you how to
give popular recipes a healthy makeover.
PROVENANCE MATTERS Where possible, we use
humanely reared meats, free-range chickens and eggs,
sustainably sourced sh and unrened sugar.
INTERNATIONAL SAVVY Sometimes, recipes call Y
for ingredients that arent available locally and cant be
brought to India without notching up air / sea miles. Its
your choice whether or not you use them.
CHEAP EATS AND SMART TREATS Hole-in-the-wall
eateries and ne dining restaurants theres room for
both in Good Foods Eat Out pages.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE The Eat Away section arms
you with insider info and recipes from the worlds most
exciting food destinations written by on-the-ground food
journalists.
BIG ISSUES Preaching doesnt come naturally, so we
wont tell you what, or what not to eat. Instead, we keep
you up-to-date with issues and debates in the food world
in our Good Food Investigates feature. Read whether its
worth swapping sugar for articial sweeteners on p 50.
Why you can cook our
recipeswith confidence
y y y y
All the recipes in Good Food are tested
thoroughly, so theyll work the rst
time for you at home. Most of our
recipes are developed in the Good
Food test kitchen by our cookery
team or come from food writers and
chefs. We aim to make our recipes
as practical as possible, keeping
ingredient lists to a minimum and
avoiding lengthy preparations.
How we triple test
our recipes
p
1
The rst time is by the recipe writer,
who tests the recipe in a domestic
kitchen.
2
Next, a member of the cookery
team makes the recipe in the
Good Food India kitchen.
3
The recipe is then tested at our
photo shoot. Some recipes are
tested a fourth time at home by
individual members of the Good Food
editorial team were all keen cooks
and often cant resist trying out a
recipe we particularly love, as soon as
weve discovered it.
Testing our recipes three times or
more may seem over-cautious, but
mistakes can be costly, so we think it
makes sense to ensure you get the
right result every time.
FOR
SKILLED
COOKSS
REALLY REALLY
REALLY
QUICKK
REALLY R
REALLY
EASY Y
Show-off recipes when you
fancy a challenge. These
recipes require a little effort.
Recipes that can be made
under 20 minutes. Perfect
for hectic weekdays.
Those recipes marked with
this stamp are the simplest
and require very little effort.
What our symbols
mean
EASY Recipes everyone can make,
even beginners. These dishes are
usually quick, often on the table within
20 minutes.
MODERATELY EASY These require
a bit more skill for example making
and rolling out pastry.
A LITTLE EFFORT
Recipes aimed at experienced cooks
who cook for pleasure and like a
challenge.
CAN BE FROZENUnless otherwise
stated, freeze for up to three months.
Defrost thoroughly and heat until
piping hot.
VEGETARIAN Meat-free dishes.
JAIN Suitable for Jain cooking.
Over to you
Have a family recipe to
share or think you could
add to our recipes? Email
us at bbcgoodfood@wwm.
co.in and let us know. Were
always on the look out for
new places and food stories
and would love to hear about
great places to eat in your
hometown.
LOOK OUT FOR
THESE HIGHLIGHTS
For a list of stores that stock gourmet ingredients, turn to p 151
At BBC Good Food India, we believe no reader of ours should ever have to sit down to anything less than a kings feast. Which is why when you a
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If contemporary Indian cuisines on your mind, then Saffron at
The Park, Kolkata is worth a trip. Revisit a variety of traditional
cuisines such as North Indian, Bengali, South Indian and
Chettinad, which have been given a modern treatment. You
could begin with a Kolkata Chaat Platter or Paneer Sabzani
Tikka and move on to Gosht Ki Dum Biryani with Kebab-e-
Akbari or Dal Makhani, Tandoori Lamb Chop and Garlic Naan
for mains. End the meal with a Hazelnut Phirni. Also try their
signature dishes that include Ravioli of Khumb with Trufed
Makhni, Halim with Rocket Leaf, Coriander Chicken Satay and
Chocolate Samosa with Caramelised Banana Sauce. In case
you want to pair your food with some wine, you could go in for
their wine-paired menus. The restaurants refurbished dcor
adds to its appeal and is inspired by the spice that it is named
after. While the lobby at the entrance is made
up of orange glass, the laminated
glass doors have saffron accents.
The jute wrapped panels on
the ceiling and walls of the
restaurant, as well as the
hand blown glass lamps
are eye-catching. So go
ahead and feast on a
variety of good food as you
take in the aesthetic interiors
of this pan-Indian restaurant.
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1. Types of beans
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with the water content removed.
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crystals are:
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coffee avour. First, the coffee is allowed
sit so the water evaporates naturally,
leaving a concentrated coffee solution.
The concentrate is then frozen at -40
degrees celsius, leaving ice crystals.
These crystals are removed through the
process of sublimation and what remains
is simply dry grains of your favourite coffee.
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The initial process of evaporating and leaving
a concentrate is the same as it is in the
freeze-drying process. The concentrate
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dry crystals of coffee fall to the bottom of
the chamber. However, in this process some
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Celebrating
Good Food Day
WHAT IS GOOD FOOD DAY?
In a nutshell, its a daylong celebration of
delicious, gourmet food where we encourage
you to try something new. While ofering you a
delectable spread of classics, we urge you to be a
part of the currents coursing through the global
culinary world with our inventive Pan-Asian,
Indian and European menus.
EVENT DIARY
Driven by the mantra, Try Something New,
Good Food Day was held at the ITC Maurya
in New Delhi over two days for lunch. The
magazine celebrated the second edition of Good
Food Day on March 1 and 2, 2013 in the capital
and brought together 10 chefs to create culinary
history. Celebrated chefs rustled up a gastronomic
Reliving its outstanding success in Mumbai, the culinary extravaganza
of Good Food Day, Delhi, held at the ITC Maurya was another feather in
Good Food Indias cap aa
storm with an impressive eight-course
feast, spread across three restaurants
and cuisines Indian, Pan Asian
and European that were created
exclusively for the day. The cuisines
were enjoyed by over 400 people at
the ITC restaurants including Dum
Pukht, My Humble House and West
View The Grill Room respectively.
The formidable line-up of ITC chefs
included chefs Gulam Qureshi,
Akshraj Jodha, Suresh Kumar and
expat Chinese chefs Stanley Lum
and Ken Chong. Other celebrity
chefs who participated included Chef
Manish Mehrotra of Indian Accent,
Chef Vikram Khatri of Ai and Olive
Bar & Kitchen, Chef Varun Tuli from
Yum Yum Tree, Chef Jatin Mallick
from Tres and Chef Jerome Cousin
from Rara Avis. Tickets were priced
at ` 1,800 (inclusive of taxes) and the `
event was a smashing success with
all seats being sold out days before
the event. The day ended with happy
foodies who left with memories of
scrumptious food and interactions
with the talented chefs.
Event Consultant: ParticipatingRestaurants:
Chefs Akshraj Jodha, Suresh Kumar, Gulam Qureshi,
Jatin Mallick, Jerome Cousin, Varun Tuli, Manisha Bhasin,
Ken Chong, Stanley Lum, Vikram Khatri and Manish
Mehrotra at the ITC Mauryas rooftop herb garden
What do you get when two chefs specialising in contemporary European cuisine
join forces with a classic French chef? A full-blown gastronomic feast showcasing
the best in contemporary European and classic French food. To say that chefs
Jerome Cousin, Jatin Mallick and Suresh Kumar rustled up a gastronomic storm
in the kitchens of West View is an understatement. The eight courses included a
delectable spread of dishes such as Snails with Garlic Butter Vol au Vent, Boletus,
Bailing And Enoki Mushroom Mlange and Milk Chocolate Brle Tranche with
Pistachio, Hazelnuts and Raspberry Coulis.
ABOUT THE RESTAURANT
West View The Grill Room, the rooftop restaurant with a breathtaking view
of Delhis green belt, ofers irresistible contemporary western cuisine. West
View brings together a careful selection of the most exquisite avours from the
Western world with an extravagant choice of grilled meats, fresh garden produce
and breads straight from the oven. With traditional recipes from remote French
chateaux, grill houses on the East and West coasts of America, the rosy kitchens of
English manors, leisurely Mediterranean villas and bustling German marketplaces,
it covers a wonderful plethora of a variety of ne cuisines.
WEST VIEW THE GRILL ROOM
7
PARTICIPATING CHEFS
Chef Jerome Cousin
French national Jerome Cousin is the chef and owner of Rara Avis. Born in Franche-
Comt to a French father and Swiss-Italian mother, Cousin was groomed extensively
at his family restaurant established three generations earlier.
Good Food Day is a very innovative concept as guests can enjoy a
gastronomical meal at a very afordable price. Also, it gives us an
opportunity to work with other chefs in the kitchen of a ve-star luxury
hotel. I would be happy to
work on such events in the
future so that we can fulll
the aspirations of consumers
to enjoy a gourmet meal.
Chef Jatin Mallick
Chef Jatin Mallick from Tres has
had an illustrious career which
boasts of accomplishments such
as Executive Chef at Zest, New
Delhi (now Setz), Executive Chef
of Intercontinental Marine Drive
Mumbai and Head Chef of a
COURSE 1
CRISPY FRIED GOATS CHEESE WITH OLIVE TAPENADE, TOMATO CHILLI JAM,
APPLE & WALNUT DRESSING AND ROCKET (CHEF JATIN MALLICK) T
OR
VOL AU VENT DESCARGOTS DE BOURGOGNE, BEURRE AILL
SNAILS WITH GARLIC BUTTER VOL AU VENT (CHEF JEROME COUSIN)
COURSE 2
TARTARE OF EGGPLANT, PEPPERS AND HAND-PULLED MOZZARELLA WITH
WINE-CODDLED PRUNE PURE AND FRUITY VINEGAR (CHEF SURESH KUMAR)
OR
SOUS VIDE-COOKED WARM SEAFOOD SAUSAGE WITH WASABI CRME FRICHE,
SHAVED FENNEL AND LEMON CHILLI DRESSING (CHEF JATIN MALLICK)
COURSE 3
SOUPE LOIGNON, CROUTON RUSTIQUE AU CHVRE
PURE VEGETARIAN ONION SOUP (CHEF JEROME COUSIN)
OR
BISQUE DE HOMARD, CAPUCCINO AU SAFRAN
LOBSTER BISQUE WITH SAFFRON CAPPUCINO (CHEF JEROME COUSIN)
COURSE 4
PECORINO GLOBE ARTICHOKE AGNOLOTTI IN BURNT SAGE BUTTER
WITH BUTTERNUT SQUASH ZUCCHINI VERMICELLI (CHEF SURESH KUMAR)
OR
COQ AU VIN, PETITS LGUMES DE PRINTEMPS
CHICKEN WITH WINE AND SMALL SEASONAL VEGETABLES (CHEF JEROME COUSIN)
COURSE 5
BOLETUS, BAILING AND ENOKI MUSHROOM MLANGE WITH TARRAGON COGNAC CREAM
IN FILO FLOWERS, SERVED ATOP SMOKED TOMATO COULIS (CHEF SURESH KUMAR)
OR
SLOW BRAISED BABY LAMB SHANKS, FRESH PEAR CONFIT AND BLACK CURRANT
WITH PEPPER-SPIKED PAN REDUCTION (CHEF SURESH KUMAR)
COURSE 6
MILK CHOCOLATE BRLE TRANCHE WITH PISTACHIO,
HAZELNUTS AND RASPBERRY COULIS (CHEF JATIN MALLICK)
COURSE 7
TIAN OF FRESH CHERRIES, MARBLED CHOCOLATE CRME AND CRUNCH OF
DARK CAKE, SIDE OF CITRON CRME ANGLAISE (CHEF SURESH KUMAR)
COURSE 8
ROQUEFORT TRIFLE WITH RED PEPPER JAM, YOUNG RUCOLA SEEDS ATOP
WHIPPED BRIE QUENELLES WITH WALNUT CRISPS (CHEF SURESH KUMAR)
TEA / COFFEE / MINI BERLINERS
*IN CASE OF ANY ALLERGY TO ANY INGREDIENT, PLEASE INFORM OUR SERVICE ASSOCIATES.
French restaurant in Hammersmith, London called Lauberge
at the Castelnau.
The whole idea of cooking alongside so many chefs
might seem like a nightmare, given our reputation,
but it just worked out so beautifully. Working in a
completely diferent atmosphere and with chefs
from other restaurants to promote a innovative
concept was exciting, to say the least.
Chef Suresh Kumar
Chef Suresh Kumars passion for cooking brought him to ITC
Maurya in 1983. Having done his Bachelors in Commerce
from Delhi University did not deter him from an illustrious
career as a chef with the ITC. His career saw him handle
responsibilities in the kitchen starting from the Pavilion
Banquets kitchen to being a master chef for West View, the
European grill restaurant since 1999.
It was good fun working together with the other
chefs and being part of this unique event. It was
interesting to play with the theme try something
new while creating the menu and ofering
something diferent to our guests.
Left to right: Monisha Dewan, Vishal Singh and Rajat
Tuli of Double Tree by Hilton; food blogger Parul Shirazi
Guests look forward to the spread
at West View - The Grill Room
Seafood sausage with wasabi
crme friche and shaved fennel
ITCs Indian oferings and Chef
Manish Mehrotras culinary genius
need no introduction. At this grand
event, ITC pulled out all the stops
and collaborated with Chef Mehrotra
to incorporate his interpretation
of Modern Indian cuisine on the
restaurant menu the rst of is
kind anywhere in the country! The
Kashmiri Morel Musallum, Gol mirch
Ka Pulao and Maans Aur Pudine Ke
Sooley were the piece de rsistance of
the entire meal.
The rened culture of courtly dining
has been elevated to a sublime art at
this award-winning restaurant in New
Delhi which brings forth the grand
cuisines of India. Its surprising array
of aromatic dishes slow cooked in
sealed deghs with handpicked spices s
to impart a delicate, alchemical
infusion of avours and textures and
its impeccable, indulgent service have
won Dum Pukht high praise and
numerous accolades.
DUM PUKHT
7
PARTICIPATING CHEFS
Chef Gulam Qureshi
Master Chef Gulam Qureshi honed his
skills whilst working with his illustrious
uncle, Chef Imtiaz Qureshi. Working
for the ITC Maurya since 1977, its not
surprising that Qureshi has become the
brand custodian of the award-winning
restaurant Dum Pukht.
Working together with chefs
to come up with an exclusive
menu was a great experience.
Interacting, collaborating and
working with a goal to make this
an unforgettable experience was
truly remarkable.
Chef Manish Mehrotra
Chef Manish Mehrotra of Old World
Hospitality Pvt. Ltd is the driving force
behind the award-winning Indian
Accent in New Delhi. The restaurant
was recently rated 41 on the list of
Asias 50 Best Restaurants 2013.
It was an amazing experience
and a brilliant initiative. The idea
of bringing together so many
chefs from diferent backgrounds
and specialisations is not only
unique but also very enriching.
I look forward to many such
events.
COURSE 1
SANGRI GONDH KI SHAMMI - PAN GRILLED RAJASTHANI DRIED BEAN GAL BLENDED
WITH EDIBLE GUM, FRESH GREEN CHILLIES, CORIANDER AND OTHER SPICES,
SERVED WITH RADISH AND WALNUT CHUTNEY. (CHEF AKSHRAJ JODHA)
OR
MAANS AUR PUDINE KE SOOLEY - Y KACHRI, RED CHILLIES & YOGHURT MARINATED LAMB
ESCALLOPS GRILLED AND ENHANCED WITH FRESH MINT. (CHEF AKSHRAJ JODHA)
COURSE 2
KHANDVI RAVIOLI, GOATS CHEESE MASH, KHAKRA CRISP (CHEF MANISH MEHROTRA)
OR
KAKORI WITH SHEERMAL (CHEF GULAM QURESHI)
COURSE 3
KASHMIRI MOREL MUSALLUM, CRUSHED ROASTED WALNUT,
PARMESAN PAPAD (CHEF MANISH MEHROTRA)
OR
DUCK TAWA KHURCHAN, SWEET AND SOUR ALOO RASSA (CHEF MANISH MEHROTRA)
COURSE 4
SAFED KALI MIRCH KE GATTE - YOGHURT ENRICHED GRAM FLOUR DUMPLING COOKED IN
ONION BASED GRAVY AND TEMPERED WITH DRY CHILL (CHEF AKSHRAJ JODHA)
OR
SYED E TWAM - CHICKEN COOKED WITH AROMATIC SPICES AND FLAVOURFUL NARANGI, SERVED
WITH CHAR MAGAZ TAFTAAN (CHEF GULAM QURESHI)
COURSE 5
GOBHI DUM ANARI - CAULIFLOWER FLORETS IN SUBTLE POMEGRANATE SAUCE, COOKED
ON DUM. SERVED WITH CHAR MAGAZ TAFTAAN (CHEF GULAM QURESHI)
OR
JUNGLEE MAAS - LAMB COOKED WITH DRY RED CHILI AND MUSTARD OIL (CHEF AKSHRAJ JODHA)
COURSE 6
ZILANI KHUSHKA - BASMATI RICE TEMPERED WITH ROYAL CUMIN AND FINISHED IN MILK
(CHEF GULAM QURESHI)
OR
GOL MIRCH KA PULAO - WHOLE BLACK PEPPER AND LAMB PULAO SERVED WITH JEERA AND
PUDHINA CHUTNEY (CHEF GULAM QURESHI)
COURSE 7
BESAN LADOO TART, MITHAI CHEESECAKE AND WINTER FRUITS
(CHEF MANISH MEHROTRA)
COURSE 8
AATEY AUR KISHMISH KA CHOORMA - SPECIALITY RAJASTHANI DESSERT OF WHOLE WHEAT
FLOUR FLAVORED WITH CARDAMON AND ENRICHED WITH RAISINS. (CHEF AKSHRAJ JODHA)
COURSE 9
SHAN E PHAL WITH GOLD LEAF MAWA CRISP (CHEF GULAM QURESHI)
:
Chef Akshraj Jodha
ITCs Master Chef Akshraj Jodha comes from the direct
lineage of the Jodhpur royal family where he honed his
culinary skills. He has also conducted extensive research on
the royal foods of Rajasthan.
Three chefs working and creating menus under
one roof created a spark and churned out an
balanced and outstanding menu. It was great to
create something unique.
Writer Anisa Nariman
with her brother Kaizad
Chef
Mehrotras
Besan
Ladoo Tart,
Winter
Fruits
and Mithai
Cheesecake
Left to right: Sidharth Sawhney,
Chefs Jodha and Qureshi,
Ramesh Menon, Rocky Mohan,
Founder of Delhi Gourmet Club,
Kainaz Contractor, Junior Food
Editor, BBC Good Food and
Tridip Sarkar
Asian cooking has always found favour amongst diners in New Delhi, be it the
subtle avours of Cantonese food or the bold and robust ones of Thai cooking.
Which is why when chefs Vikram Khatri, Varun Tuli, Stanley Lum and Ken Chong
got together to create a menu with Asian classics and modern interpretations, it
was a riot of textures, colours and avours on a plate. The standout dishes for
the afternoon were Khatris Pork Belly, Lum and Chongs Wok-seared Lamb on
Radish Cake and Tulis Yuzu Cheesecake.

This elegant rooftop restaurant at ITC Maurya presents a delicate spread of neo-
classical Chinese cuisine, which translates into the sublime marriage of traditional
Chinese cuisine with global touches.
MY HUMBLE HOUSE
7
PARTICIPATING CHEFS
Chef Varun Tuli
Engineer-turned-restaurateur Varun
Tuli is the Managing Director of
Tusaj Lifestyle Private Limited, the
organisation which owns The Yum
Yum Tree a one of a kind pan-Asian
restaurant and sushi bar.
Good Food Day was a fantastic
opportunity to bring hotels and
standalone restaurants together
in the name of, well, good
food. The ITC and BBC Good
Food were both phenomenally
cooperative in understanding the
GUESTS SPEAK
I wish Id booked my table earlier, Missing the Good
Food Day Delhi is such a bad omen, the events already
sold out (tummy crying). - Reeta Skeeter
The Kashmiri Morel Mussalam by Manish Mehrotra is
amazing. - Aparna Jain
Im super excited for Good Food Day Delhi. I had such
a good time. Thank you BBC Good Food magazine.
- Preeti Dhingra
Nice, lovely lunch at the ITC Hotels on Good Food
Day. Loved the entire 5-course meal; everything from the
Kakori Kebab to the Besan Ladoo ka Tart. - Aman
COURSE 1
SHO-JIN MORIAWASE ASSIETTE OF POTATO SALAD, SPINACH GOMAE &
TOFU SASHIMI (CHEF VIKRAM KHATRI)
OR
ZENSAI MORIAWASE ASSIETTE OF SMOKED CHICKEN POTATO SALAD, SPINACH GOMAE &
SALMON SASHIMI (CHEF VIKRAM KHATRI)
COURSE 2
CRISP VEGETABLE HARUMAKI BAKED FILO PASTY WITH SWEET CORN AND MISO MUSTARD
SAUCE (CHEF VIKRAM KHATRI)
OR
SONG OF THE SEA CRISP PRAWN IN WASABI MAYO SERVED IN RICE PAPER SHELL
(CHEF STANLEY & KEN)
COURSE 3
YUM YUM TREES SIGNATURE DIM SUM
SPICY ASPARAGUS + CHIVE & CASHEW (CHEF VARUN TULI)
OR
YUM YUM TREES SIGNATURE DIM SUM CRAB + DUCK & CHERRY (CHEF VARUN TULI)
COURSE 4
EVERY MOMENT A DELIGHT GRILLED TOFU IN TSUMIYAKI SAUCE WITH SCALLIONS AND
SHAVED GINGER (CHEF STANLEY & KEN)
OR
AIS SIGNATURE PORK BELLY SLOW COOKED PORK BELLY WITH MUSTARD
MISO SAUCE (CHEF VIKRAM KHATRI)
COURSE 5
HOT YELLOW CURRY WITH EGGPLANT A SOUTHERN CHINESE CURRY WITH REDUCED
MILK AND FRESH TURMERIC (CHEF VARUN TULI)
OR
HOT YELLOW CURRY WITH CALAMARI (CHEF VARUN TULI)
COURSE 6
A WELCOMING HEART, A SHELTER FROM THE COLD WOK FRIED EGGPLANT WITH
MINCED MUSHROOMS IN SPICY SICHUAN SAUCE (CHEF STANLEY & KEN)
OR
FOOTPRINTS OF SOLITUDE, I STOP AND ANTICIPATE WOK SEARED LAMB ON RADISH
CAKE WITH FRESH MINT SAUCE (CHEF STANLEY & KEN)
WITH
THE VISION OF A RAINBOW OLIVE FRIED RICE WITH LIME AND CHILLI
(CHEF STANLEY & KEN)
COURSE 7
YUM YUM TREES YUZU CHEESECAKE WITH STRAWBERRY AND BASIL COMPOTE
(CHEF VARUN TULI)
COURSE 8
STICKY DATE TOFFEE PUDDING WITH BUTTERSCOTCH GLAZE (CHEF STANLEY & KEN)
challenges associated with the
event and delivered fully.
Chef Vikram Khatri
After a stint at Sakura, Khatri joined
the Olive Group as the Executive Chef
of Ai. Khatri brought home several
accolades including the award for Best
Japanese Restaurant by Hindustan
Times and Best Sushi Chef.
The idea of bringing chefs
together makes such an event
unique. This event brought many
innovative minds together and
provided a platform to work on a
well-constructed menu. The event
was denitely praiseworthy and
kudos to Executive Chef Manisha
Bhasin for that!
Chefs Stanley Lum and
Chef Ken Chong
The kitchens at My Humble House is
led by a stellar team of two talented
chefs Stanley Lum and Ken Chong
from My Humble House, Singapore.
They both spent their early days
working in Malaysia learning about the
ner nuances of Chinese food.
Good Food Day was a great
concept and gave us the
opportunity to interact and work
with some of the other great chefs
in Delhi and learn from one other.
Guests savouring their meal at My Humble House
Left to right: Akshay Modi,
CEO of Modi Naturals with a
guest and Lokesh Arora of Good Food
Left to right: Prathna Tuli,
Chef Varun Tuli and guest
Wok seared lamb on radish Wok seared lamb on radish
cake with olive fried rice
Advertisement feature
I
s your breakfast incomplete without a
slice of toast slathered with butter? Cant
nish your aloo paratha without a dollop
of makkhan on the side? Counting calories
notwithstanding, most of us cannot give up
butter because of its incredible taste.
Fortunately, theres now an option to eat
healthy without having to compromise on
taste. Nutrela Premium Table Spreads food
festival from February 23 to March 3 was
all about indulging in good food. The event,
conducted in association with Good Food India,
was held at eight restaurants across Mumbai.
Apart from special menus that included
recipes prepared with Nutrela table spread,
health-conscious customers also opted for
dishes from the regular menu cooked using
the product.
While Coffee Bean and
Tea Leaf outlets served the
table spread along with
their eggs to order and
pancakes, Out of The Blue
offered eggs, pancakes,
French toast, wafes,
bread and breakfast
roll baskets, as well as
Indian breakfast dishes
like paratha and egg bhurji.
Bruschetta with Nutrela garlic butter
and parsley or mozarella cheese was
on offer at Pizza By The Bay.
The Bombay Blue Masala Double
Decker with potato masala, cheese, chutney,
tomato and cucumber was a hit with customers
who said they couldnt make out any difference
in taste. Also on offer were sandwiches
including Chilli Cheese Burst, Roast Vegetable
Burger, as well as Big Blue Chicken Burger.
The menu at the Italian bistro Mia Cucina
included a variety of antipasti like garlic bread,
risotto and mozarella balls along with grilled
chicken and polenta skewers. Guests could
choose from pastas, risottos and a variety
of vegetarian, meat and seafood mains. The
Ravioli di Pesce con Pomodori or sh ravioli in
roasted cherry tomato sauce was a dish that
several diners liked.
Guilt-free feasts
Indulgence without guilt that was the theme of Nutrela Premium
Table Spreads week-long food festival held in association with
Good Food India
1 2
5
9
11
14
13
Chez Moi at Bandra Reclamation rustled up
a creamy Butter Corn Soup, Penne Pesto with
Sundried Tomato, Pasta Arrabiata, Chicken
Drums in Herbed Nutrela Butter Sauce, and
a Coriander Beurre Blanc or Nutrela lemon
sauce with herbs and coriander, served with
sh. Lagerbays Prawns Calamari Ajillo or
shrimp and calamari sauted in Nutrela table
spread and white wine struck a chord with
customers, as did the Lava Chocolate Cake.
The festival ended with a lively brunch
at Eat Around The Corner in Bandra. Those
present included Bhagwan Advani, CEO of
K Raheja Hospitality and his wife Kiran; Sam
Pittalwala, head of agribusiness at Australia
and New Zealand bank; interior designer Aakif
Habib; journalist Jayashree Menon and child
psychologist Ratna Mazumdar. Guests gorged
on a smorgasbord of breads, pasta, salads,
sandwiches and desserts. They also got to try
the special menu with three recipes prepared
with Nutrela table spread Garlic Bread,
Chicken Rosti and EATC's special cookies. The
successful get together ended three hours
later and satiated foodies left with memories
of the sumptuous spread, knowing they had
indulged in healthier food.
1. Brunch at Eat Around The Corner
2. Lagerbays Prawns Calamari Ajillo
3. Cookies made with Nutrela table spread
4. Left to right: Sandipan Ghosh, AVP
(Marketing), Ruchi Soya; Good Food's Reena Dave,
Sona Bahadur, Priyanka Hosangadi, Jyoti Verma,
Leena Bhandari and Sajid Hussain; Kevin Jacob
from Soho Square and Ruchi Soya's Dhawal
Masrani 5. Breakfast at Eat Around The Corner
6. Pizza By The Bays garlic bread 7. Interior
designer Aakif Habib 8. Mia Cucina's Pollo
Scallopine Piccata 9. Diners enjoying the brunch
at Bombay Blue 10. Jyoti Verma with guests in
conversation with Chetan Washikar, Executive
Chef, Mars Group 11. Diners at Chez Moi 12. Sam
Pittalwala, Head of Agribusiness at ANZ Bank
and family 13. Diner about to have breakfast at
Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf 14. Diner placing an
order at Pizza By The Bay 15. Left to right: Ratna
Mazumdar, Jayshree Menon, Jyoti Verma and
Kiran Advani
10
12
15
6
3 4
7 8
rst bite
rst bite
first bite
Chutney Nation
FLAVOUR BOMBS
Chutneys have always
been an integral part of
any Indian meal.
Travel to any state
of India and the local
cuisine will have several
chutneys innate to that
region. They impart
tanginess, spiciness or
sweetness to any meal.
And unlike pickles, they
can be used as sandwich
fillings, dips, marinades
or simply enjoyed
on their own. These
chutneys last up to three
days in the fridge or
up to a month in the
freezer.
Recipes
AMIT PAMNANI
Photographs
PRATEEKSH MEHRA
Rustle up these
brilliant Indian
chutneys in a
riot of perky colours
and flavours
rst bite
Dip right in!
Feisty chutneys teamed with earthy khakras spell jaded-palate nirvana
Peanut chutney
Makes 1 bowl Q5 minutes QEASY
QPut 1 cup peeled, roasted peanuts,
2-3 peeled garlic cloves, 1 tsp chilli
powder, 1 tbsp lemon juice and salt in a
blender. Add a little water, just enough to
make a thick chutney. Blend until smooth.
Dry coconut and garlic
chutney
QDry roast 1 cup freshly grated
coconut or dried desiccated
coconut, 2 tsp red chilli powder,
2-3 sliced garlic cloves, 1 tsp each
of turmeric powder, coriander powder,
cumin powder and fennel seeds for
approximately 5 minutes in a non-stick
pan on slow heat. Add 1 tsp salt and mix
well. Allow to cool. Blend the mixture in a
mixer without adding any water.
Papad chutney
QRoast 5-6 papads on a hot griddle.
Deep fry 1 sliced onion in 100ml oil until
golden. Roast 1 tbsp sesame seeds on
a griddle. Crush the papad roughly with
your hands. Put the crushed papad, fried
onions and sesame seeds along with a
pinch of salt, 1 tsp red chilli powder and
1 tsp amchoor powder in a blender and
blend until it resembles a coarse powder.
QPER SERVING 262.75 kcals, protein 1.65g,
1.38g, salt 0.1g
Avla chutney
QRoughly chop 3 avlas. Mix 2 tbsp
chopped coriander, 1 chopped green
chilli, salt to taste, 1 tbsp peeled
peanuts, 1 tsp roasted sesame seeds,
1 peeled garlic clove and 1 tsp sugar
with the avla. Put all the ingredients in
a blender with a little water, just enough
to make a thick chutney. Blend until
smooth.
QPER SERVING 38 kcals, protein 1.08g,
1.38g, salt none
Beetroot chutney
QRoughly chop 1 peeled beetroot
and 1/2 peeled onion. Mix 2 chopped
green chillies, 2 tbsp mint leaves,
2 peeled garlic cloves, 5-6 curry
leaves, a pinch of salt and 1 tsp
lemon juice together. Add 1 tbsp
cashewnuts and 1 tsp sugar.
Combine all the ingredients in a
blender and add a little water, just
enough to make a thick chutney.
Blend until smooth.
Raw mango chutney
Makes 1 bowl Q10 minutes
QEASY
QRoughly chop 1 raw mango without
peeling it. Mix 1/4 chopped onion,
3 tbsp freshly grated coconut or
dried desiccated coconut,
2 chopped green chillies, 2 chopped
garlic cloves and 1 tsp lemon juice.
Add a pinch of salt, 1 tsp chilli
powder and 1 tbsp sugar. Combine
all the ingredients in a blender with
a little water, just enough to make a
thick chutney. Blend until smooth.
need to know
Instant deli pizza Serves 2 Q 20 minutes Q EASY
Heat the oven to 200C. Top a pizza base (` ( 25) with slices of ` Impero Fresh mozzarella (` ( 175/150g). Scatter some `
chopped mushrooms (` ( 18/100g) and red and yellow bell peppers (` ( 25/200g) then bake for about 12 minutes, or until the
mozzarella is melted and bubbling. Scatter over fresh basil (` (( 10/bunch) and serve. `
THE CASE FOR
Sweet encroaching into savoury
territory is far from blasphemous.
Think Gujarati food with its
brilliant marriage of contrasting
avours. The khatti-meethi dal is i
a divine blend of sweet, sour and
spicy. Or think sweet chilli jam,
which imparts feisty
contrast to a
cheese platter.
Purists might
raise their
eyebrows at the
idea of peach in a
blue cheese sandwich,
or meat marinated with
sweetened cocoa, but isnt
eating all about experimenting? A
slight sweet element in a savoury
dish heightens the avours and
creates balance. If you can obsess
over salted caramel, why not
chocolate-glazed pot roast?
- KHORSHED DEBOO
THE JURYS OUT
Sweet meets savoury
How to use up
SUPERMARKET SWEEP
Pop into Foodhall after work and beat the price of a takeaway
THE CASE AGAINST
I heart desserts, but spare me
the savoury dishes with sweet
accents, please. Why would
you have pineapple with ham
as a pizza topping or a dish like
bacon jam? The very thought of
it is anathema. Waxing pretty
about the symphony of
sweet and savoury
is very well but
theres a ne
line between an
evolved dish and
a culinary crime. Ive
ordered some interesting
sounding items only to be
left spooning out sugar-
coated pieces of meat. Yuck! After
these unsavoury experiences,
Ive come to a clear conclusion:
food should not sit on the fence
between sweet and savoury. It
should make up its mind!
- PRIYANKA HOSANGADI
Pineapple and
bacon pizza
P
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G
7Chicken arrabbiata Heat
3 tbsp olive oil in a pan. Add
2 sliced red chillies and fry. Pour
in 400g pasta sauce and 350ml red
wine, turn up the heat and allow it to bubble. Stir in 2 tsp chopped
thyme and seasoning. Add 6 skinless chicken legs, part-cover the
pan and simmer. Remove the lid and cook until the chicken is tender.
Garnish with parsley and serve with y mashed potatoes.
7Bloody mary bolognese Heat 1 tbsp oil in a pan, then add 400g
beef mince. Cook well, then add 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce and
1 glass red wine. Slowly cook for 30 minutes to an hour. Meanwhile
cook 500g penne pasta according to pack instructions. Drain, then
throw the pasta into the pan with 350g pasta sauce and mix it
together. Serve with some grated cheddar cheese on the top.
7Gnocchi with creamy tomato and spinach sauce Heat 1 tbsp
olive oil in a pan. Fry 2 crushed garlic cloves until golden and
simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in 140g mascarpone, then
cook for 2 minutes more. Meanwhile, boil 500g gnocchi.
Add 200g chopped spinach. Drain well, pour back
into the pan, then stir in 400g pasta sauce. Mix well
and serve with basil leaves and parmesan shavings
scattered over.
7 Try Jamie Olivers Tomato and Basil Pasta Sauce 7
available at gourmet stores, ` 225 for 350g.
=
CUPBOARD LOVE
PASTA
SAUCE
(` ( 175/150 ) S tt `
y for two
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TOTAL COST
` 2
5
3
+ +
+ +
need to know
Trends we like
American Swan
Springfield Star
Apron from
jabong.com, ` 1,199 `
Barbecue Phoebe
Patchwork Apron
from
The Shop, Mumbai,
` 726 `
PRETTY APRONS
Add a pop of style to your kitchen time with these colourful must-buys
Striped Linen
Kitchen Set
from Sanctum,
Mumbai, ` 1,225
Authentic
Kitchen Set from
Sanctum, Mumbai,
` 1,225
Sweet Love Apron from
mynesthome.com,
` 249
Tasty Turnip
Apron, available at
thehomelabel.com,
at ` 850 `
need to know
ROYAL VEGA, CHENNAI
Nestled within the palatial ITC Grand
Chola, Royal Vega is deemed the rst-ever
vegetarian ne dining restaurant in the world.
Giving locally sourced veggies a global twist
in regional Indian cuisine is its USP. The menu
features dishes made using Vedic cooking
techniques like the use of pure ghee, and
something sweet at the beginning of the meal.
So the next time youre looking for a twist to
ghar ka khana, you know where to head.
THE PIER, MUMBAI
With a dearth of restaurants in Mumbai taking
advantage of the citys quayside, The Pier
comes as a breath of fresh air. Done up in hues
of blue, this European ne dining restaurant has
a well-stocked bar and is open only for dinner.
While the menu largely leans towards seafood,
it also features a mix of other offerings such as
a hearty beef burger, Trufe-scented Bhurji and
crme brle. Lap up the ambience as you sip
on Italian wine from their vast selection.
THE FLYING ELEPHANT,
CHENNAI
A visit to the Park Hyatts newest eatery is like
enjoying a theatrical performance. Opulently
lit, it is spread over seven levels and has six
interactive kitchens. With Turkish, Southeast
Asian and Indian fare, youre spoilt for choice.
The menu boasts some inventive dishes
Spicy Turkish Lamb, Chestnut Tagliatelle and
Raspberry Sorbet Champagne. Dont miss their
heady Prohibition era cocktails.
TABLE HOPPING Get your first taste of the hottest new restaurants on the block
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This months good vibes and gripes
food-o-meter
7 TIKI BARS
Whats not to love about bars that
let you make like youre in
Polynesia with Mai Tais and
umbrella-clad cocktails?
7 CAKE POPS
Is it a cake? Is it a lollipop?
Wait, its both! Culinary deceit is
allowed when it comes as a mini
cake on a stick.
7UDIPI
RESTAURANTS
Escalating real
estate and labour
costs are making it
hard for our favourite
dosa hangouts to stay aoat.
7INDIAN COCKTAILS
With classic avours making a
comeback, are we seeing the last of
curry leaves in our cocktail glasses? T
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Missionarys Downfall
Makes 1 Q20 minutes + cooling
QEASY
Banish the summer heat with this
cooling tiki cocktail

Put some chunks of freshly cut
pineapple in the freezer for a few hours.
Meanwhile, make a simple mint syrup by
blanching some mint sprigs in 200ml
boiling water, then dissolving 200g
sugar in the mixture and letting it cool.
In a blender, put two large chunks of the
frozen pineapple, add 50ml Bacardi
rum, 20ml peach liqueur, 15ml of the
mint syrup and a handful of crushed
ice (use a rolling pin to crush ice cubes
in a bag if you need to). Blend for a few
seconds until smooth, then pour into
a pia colada glass or a tall-stemmed
wine glass and garnish with a sprig of
mint and a slice of pineapple.
COCKTAIL
OF THE MONTH
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need to know
pantry basics
Packaged foods score on convenience but do they pass muster on the
taste test? We test six brands of ready-to-eat dal makhani to find out
Text KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Product courtesy FOODHALL Photographs SHRYEA GUPTA
ON TEST
Instant dal makhani
KOHINOOR
` 55/300g
We predict this little packet of
creamy indulgence will soon be
stocked in hostel rooms and in
kitchens to be brought out on
a rainy day or to satisfy those
insatiable midnight dal makhani
cravings. Kohinoors packaged
dal is a mix of black lentils,
kidney and split gram and has a
rich gravy with no unappetising
oil slick. Of all the dals we
tested, Kohinoor comes as close
to the real thing as a packaged
product can. It is also the
product that has the cleanest
avours, with no overpowering
sourness of tomato paste or
masalas. A bite of ginger, to go
along with the green chilli in the
dal, will certainly elevate it to a
regular at the dinner table.
SOUL
` 49/300g
Souls dal makhani
may be the most
economical of the
lot but well gladly
pay more for a
more palatable dal.
The dal is of a thin
consistency and has an overpowering
taste of masala. Unlike most other
packaged dals that are heavily avoured
with processed tomato paste, this one
has an odd and disagreeable taste of
preservatives. Their suggestion is to add
a dollop of butter before serving, but
the generous layer of oil oating on top
makes us choose otherwise. If you must,
salvage this dal with the addition of
some cream, butter and chopped ginger.
KITCHENS OF INDIAA ` 95/285g
From a brand thats not just the costliest but also a part of the
ITC mother ship and carries the Bukhara stamp, our expectations
are nothing short of sky high. We open the package anticipating
multiple servings but nd it rather testing to nish whats already
in our bowl. The ho hum dal is mildly tart with tomato paste
overpowering whatever traces of spices can be found. Ready in
a jiffy, this dal that carries the name of the illustrious restaurant
Bukhara, is surprisingly less impressive than its mainstream sister
brand, Aashirvaad. Even the white butter couldnt impart its inherent richness to this dal,
making us reach for some added cream and butter.
MTR
` 60/300g
What strikes
us about this
Bengaluru
institutions dal
is the jarring use
of masalas that
jolts us straight
out of our cream-and-butter-induced
spell. The sourness of the tomato
paste is dominant and butter is used
conservatively. Adding to that is the
preference of milk over cream in the
dal, resulting in a mildly creamed
version of the North-Indian favourite.
Eat this one with a butter naan instead
of rice to disguise the sharp spices. The
absence of trans fat and hydrogenated
vegetable fat is commendable.
AASHIRVAAD ` 60/285g
In our quest to nd the dal that spells homely comfort, Aashirvaad
emerges as the clear runner-up. The creamy consistency and the mild
avours of the dal are best eaten with jeera rice or a spiced paratha.
Even if youre a purist about dal makhani, this packaged one might just
win its way on to your plate. The masalas are sparingly used which makes
it perfect for spice-sensitive palates. The white butter added in place of
yellow butter also adds character and richness to the dal. So good!
LOVES
y
Buying tip:
While choosing a dal makhani, look
out for the proportion of tomato
pure used. A higher one will result
in a sour and unpleasant aftertaste.
Also look for the brand which has
the least unsaturated fat.
need to know
Rarely do we rave about cocktails at restaurants but we can vouch for
those at the Smoke House restaurants. Thats why were super thrilled
about Smoke House Grills newest ofering The Smoke House
Cocktail Club. In essence, it is a happy hours ofer with
a 1 + 1 on all smoked classics, molecular
creations as well as the seasons best
concoctions. This isnt the place to play
safe with classic cocktails; give in to the
creations of the innovative bartenders
who churn out delicious smoked
mojitos and deconstructed
watermelon caipiroskas. On a not-
so-busy night, position yourself near
the bar, order something of menu
and leave the rest to the bartender.
Who knows, you might just get a crash
course in mixing molecular cocktails!
Tel: +91 01141435531
Good Food tracks down this months best value foodie events, meals and deals. d
WordsKAINAZ CONTRACTOR
` 206-A-HEAD DINNER `
PARTY FOR FOUR!
` 450 COCKTAIL CLUB `
NEW DELHI
7 7
All prices
PER HEAD
excluding taxes
and travel
Total ` 826
(` 206.5 ` per head)
7Mozzarella and salami ciabatta (p 103) atta (p 103) Mozzarella and s ` ` 286 286
7 Linguine with cherry tomatoes and
goats cheese (p 68) ` 292 `
7 Pears with speedy choc sauce (p 95) ` 248
BARGAINHUNTER
Packed to the gills with heart-friendly nutrients, fish is a
jewel in your dietary crown. We explore the incredible
bounty of local Indian varieties
T
o whom do we human
beings owe our superior
intellect? We have not
just our genes to thank
or a miracle of evolution. A silent debt
of gratitude is also due to a humble
ancestor who decided a couple of
million years ago to eat sh! Scientists
from around the world believe that
the Omega and Omega-3 fatty acids
from sh oils have contributed to
the growth of the human brain and
played a pivotal role in improving the
intelligence of early humans.
Theres plenty of evidence to
suggest that sh has been a vital
part of the human diet since early
civilisation. Archaeological sites from
around Africa (such as Lake Turkana
in Kenyas Rift Valley and Mossel Bay
in the South Cape) have thrown up
bone fossils of sh with scar wounds
from weapons that were used to kill
and carve them up to eat. In India too,
recorded history indicates that seafood
was consumed during the Harappan
civilisation and the Vedic period. Our
ancestors were wise enough to realise
that seafood doesnt just taste great but
forties the body as well.
As a country with an extensive
coastline and excellent freshwater
sources, India has an unbelievable
bounty of seafood. Approximately 11
per cent of the worlds seafood species
are found in India. Of these 2,200 or so
Words SANGRAM SAWANT Photograph SANJIV VALSAN
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ri ri ri riiivve ve ve v rs rs rs rrrr , , an an nnd ddddddd colld fffre resh shwa w tee ters rs. .
SEAFOOD CONSUMPTION
IN INDIA
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co o cons nssum um ummpt pt ptio ion n n is is s hhhhig ig ggghe he he hest st iin nn n In In In Indi ddia aa
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pr prep epar ar a at atio io io oons ns nss mmmad ade e of of tttthe he ssam ame e po popu pu pu uuula laaar r rr
st t stap aple l ppommfr fret et. Ma Maarr r ie ied d wi with th lloc oc o al aa
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cccco c ns ns n um u e eeee th th th th th theeeee e sa samee me vvar arie ieta taaa tal lll as kkkin ing g gsh sh sh.
A QUESTION OF TASTE
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in in i st tan an an aan nce ce ce ee, ,,, , , , fr fr fff es es es eshw w hw w hw hw hw h at at at at at ater er er er er er sh sh sh sh sh ffffffou ou ou ou ound nd nd nd iiiinnnn n th th t e e
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ro ro r hu u an aa d dd ca ca atl tl tlaaa,, ar ar areee wi wide deely ly pre refe fe f rr rred ed e
in inWWes sst t Be B ngal l, wh wh w er reee s sh h is ss mmmuc u h h
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r rsi sist st st st ttan aan an an ance ce ce ce iiiiisss s th th t e e le lege gend ndar ary yy hi hils lsa, a aalssoo
lo lo llo l ca call lly y kn know o n as as il llis ishhh. To To T sssay ay a iit t is is aa mmer e e e
de deli lica ca c cy cy wwouuldd bbbe rega gard rded ed aass an an iins nsul ult. t.
Th Thiis ttho horn rny y s sh h h ha has s in incr cred edib ible le av avou ourr
li litt tttle le wwon on onde de de de d r r th that at iit t is is aan n ob obse sess ssio ion, n,
a a cu culi lina na nary ryyy lleg egen en nnnd, d, d aa pppol ol o it itic ical al bbar arom omet eter er
an and d sh sh how owst st top oppe per, r, aall ll rrol olle led d in into to oone ne!!
Hi Hist stor oric ical ally lyy, , ,, wa wars rs hhav ave e be been en ffou ough gh gh ght t
over er ttthi his s s h. h. hh EEve ve ven n to tooda da day, y, y,, ppitt it ittch ch ch ch hed ed ed
ba baatttle le les s ar re e foug ug ught ht h iin n th th t e e s sh h ba baa b za za za aar aars ss of of of
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Ju Junee ne tto o o Oc Oc Occto toobe ber. r. HHil ilsa a sa rrrrroe oe o iis ss al aal also so so sss aaa
pr p izzed ed ddel el e ic icac acy in in i the ssta tate te, co cons nnsid d ider ered ed
th thh the e e Be Be Be Be B ng nngal li equivaa vale llentt oof f ca a ca aavi vvv ar ar r. .
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s ssh co co c mm mmon only ly ly kno no nown wn w aaas s ca carp rp rp iis s al also so
fo f un und d in in n tthe he DDDal al LLak ake e e in in n KKKKas as ashm hmmir.
Si Simi mi mla larl rly, y, rrriv iver erin iinee tr trou ou ouut t t th t at at t bbel l e on ong gg to to
th thhe ee sa sa s lm lmmon onn famil ily y ar ar ree e al al a so ffou ound nd iiin n
th the e co cc ldd wwat at ater er ee s s of of o HHim imac acha hal Prrad ad ades eesh. h
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pr pr prod oduc uc uc uce. ee. e. e.
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su su su su su su s ch ch ch ch ch c aaaaas s sss tu tu tu tuu tuna na na nnn , , ki ki ki ki ki k ng ng ng n s s h, h, h, sssal al al al a mo mm n, su surm mai, , ii
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co c as as ssts ttt . States es es suc uc uch hh as as as as MMMah ah har aras as sht htra ra, ,
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co c ok okin ing wiith th t sh sh h..
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fr ffr ff es es shhw hhhwat ater e sh sh sh ttri ries es surm rmai or ra awa w ss, , , it it ii
is is ii llik ikk l ely y hh th that at hhhhheeee e e or oor sshe he hhe mmig iight ht nnnnot ot ccar are e
mu m ch hhh fffor or its tttas aaste te. Th Th T e e re reve vers rse e al also so so soo so hhhhhol ol ol ol olds ds ds
tr true ueeeee. Th TThh T e ee ge gene nera ra al ll co co cons ns n en en nsu su sus s on on ttas aste tee iiiiisss ss
th that at ssal a twater er sh ssh hhhav aave e r rm, m,, mmmea ea aty tty es s es es ssh, h, h,
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a avo vo v ur aand nd ssli ll ghh ghtl ttly y sw sw wee eeeete te te tt rr ta ta ta t st st st ste. e.
WHY SHOULD YOU EAT
FISH?
On On On OO e e of of tthe hee he he hee mmmmmos osst t si sign gn gn g i ica cant nt aatt tttri ribu bute tes
of of all ll kkin in nds ds oof f s sh h is is ttha hat t th thhhey ey aare re hhig igh h
in in ppro rote tein in, , on one e of of tthe he bbui uild ldin ing g bl bloc ocks ks oof f
ou our r bo booody dy. . Fo Fo F un und d in in mmus uscl cl lle, e, e bbbbon one, e, sski kin, n,
ha haair ir ir aand nd vvir irtu tual ally ly eeve very ry ttis issu sue e or or or o ppar art t of of
th the e bo body dy, , pr prot otei ein n co cont ntai ains ns tthe hee eeeenz nz nz n ym ymes es
th thhat at pppowwwer er mmman aany yy ch ch c em em mmic ic ic ic ic i al al rrea eact ctio ions ns
an and d d th th the e ha haem emog og oglo loobi bi bbbinn n th that at ccar arri ries ees
th the e ox ooxyg yg ygen n iiiiiiiin nnnn ou our r bllloo oo oo o d. d. AAAqu quat atic ic
sp sp sp s ec ec ecie ie ie iie i s s sss ar are ee co consid id der ered ed aa hhhea ealt lthi hier er r
so so ss ur urce ce c ooof f pr pr prot oo ei in n n thh th than an an an ann lliv ives es eesto tock ck ck. . Be BBBeef ef f, ,
po po pork rk rk and nd cchi hiick ck cken en en hhav ave th thei eir po positi tive ve
at at ttr trib ibut ut u es es, , bu bu but tt ttt no none ne oooooof ff th thhes es ese ee of offer er e tthe he
co co comp mm ou ou ou ooo nd nd nd nded ed ed nnnut t utri riti tion onnal al bbennne ets ts t ttha ha h tt t
ar ar aree fo fo f un unnnd d d in in in in sh sh h.
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cl cl clog og o gi gi ging ng satur urat ated ed d fffffat at at. . In In Innst st sttea ea ea ea ea ead, d, dd, d, dd iiiiit tttt is is
pa pa p ck cked d wwit ith hh he he heeeeear ar arttt- tt- t-fr fr ff ie ie ie iend ndd ndly ly ly OOOme mm ga gg -3 -3 -3
fa fa f tt tty y ac ac cid ids, s aand nd ooooth th ther er e ggoo ooo o d d d fa fats ts sssuc uc uc uuchh
as as as DDDDHA A, , or or o ig ig gin in inal al ally y ly ly y ffou ound nd ndd iinn th the e
mi micr cr c oa oalg lg lgae ae ttttha ha hat tt ar r a e e ea eate tten n by by b sh sh sh sh shh. .Th Th T es es ese ee
nu n tr tr t ie ient nt n ss ar ar a ee e sa sa said idd ttttto oo o oo pr prommote he heal alth th th t y
ey ey ey ey ey y e eee e an an and d d d ddd br br bbr br b ai ain nn de de d ve velo loopm p en eent t in iin cchi hi hi hi hi hh ld d ld ldre re re en. nn. nn
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tth th thhh tt at at aat aa mmmmon on on onooo an and d dd po po p ly lyun un u sa satu tuuura ra a ra ate te te te teed d ddddd fa fa f tt ttyyy
ac ac aa id id id ddsss pr pr pr prot ot ot otec ec ec ec c e t t tttt ag ag a ai ai ains ns nst tt se se se seve vera rall fo form rmss of of
ca ca ca ca ca canc nc nc ncer er. Ea Ea EEEati ti ti ting ng sh shh rrreg eg eg eegul ul ul ul u ar ar aarly ly ly hhhhas as bbbbee een n
sh sh ss ow owwwwnnnn n to too to rrred educ uce e th th the e pr prob obab ab bil il lit ity y y of of of o cccclo lo lot t
fo form rmat atio ion, n, llow ower er bblo lood od ppre ress ssur ure e an an nd d d
in incr crea ease se llev evel elss of of ggoo ood d ch chol oles este tero roll in in n
th th t e e bl bl b oo oo o ds dss d tr tr t ea ea e mm, tthe here reby by ddec ecre reas asin ing g th th the e
rrisk oof heear a t di dise seas ase. e. e
De Desp spiite e the we elll-p -pubbli lici ci ise sed d be bene ne n t ts s s
of of eeeeeat at at at a in in in n in in ing g gg g g s s s sh, h, hhh sssssev ev ee er er er err eral al mmyt yths hhs s pppre reva ail il
ab abou ouuuuut tttt it it itttss sss co co ooons nns ns nns nsum ummm um u pt t pt p io iiion (see ee bbox ox). ). BBut utt
wh wh wh ww il il ile e mo mo mostt st oof f th th thes es se e pe pe pe eerc rc rc rc cep ep ep ep ppti ti ti ti ti tion on ooons s
su such ch hhhh aaaas s no nott ea eati ting ngg sh sh h sh h iiin n nnn th thhh thhe ee mo mo mo m ns nsoo oon n
ha ha ha ha h ve ve ve veee nnnnnnoooo ba ba basi siis ss in in in inn ffffac ac a t, t, oove ver rsh shin ingg
aan aan a dd ovv ovver er er ee ex ex l pl plloi oiiita ta ttati ti ti tiion onn on oooooof f f ou ou our r ma mmari ri rine ne
re re e re reso so sso sour ur ur ur urrce ce c s s is is aa mmmat atte terr of off cccon on o ce ce ce ern rn rn rn, , ,, wh wh wh wwhiic ich hh
is is ii llik ik i el elly y y to to hhav ave e se seri riou ouss re repe peerc rcus ussssssi si si ss on onn on ons s s
in in n tthe he yyea ears rs tto o co come me. . As As rres espo po ons nsssib ib ib iiib ii le le le le
co cons nnsum umer e s off ssea eafo food od,, we we nnnee eed d dd to to
en ensu sure re ttha hat t th the e s sh h we we ww eeat at aat iiiss ss ha ha harv rv r es este ted d
ke keep epin ing g gg th thhe e su sust stai aina nabi bili lity ty oof f th th thhee
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si sign gni ica cant nt tthr hrea eats ts iis s th the e ha harv rv ves es esti ting ng ooof f
im imma matu ture re sh h. Ca Catc tchi hing ng imm mmmmmmat atur uree
s sh h deepl plet etes es tthe he bbre reed edin ing g po popu pula lati tion onn
in in tthe he wwat ater ers, s, wwhi hi hi hh ch ch c aafe fect cts s th the e ab abil ilit ity y
of of tthe he sspe peci c es es tto o re rege gene nera rate te, , wh whic ich h in in in
tu turn rn ccou ould ld llea ead d to to tthe heir ir dddep ep pple le leti ti t on on oor r
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ar are e av avai aila labl bl b e e at at a low ower er pppri rice ce ce cc s, s, , ttthe he heey y y ar ar a e e
wwide de d ly ly ssssol ol o d d an annd d co co c ns ns nsssum um m u ed ed d. . Hi Hi Hils lsa a is is s i aaals ls l o oo
fa facing ng g aaa ssim imilar ar ar cccc i ri ri risi sis s of off nnnnnnum um um uu be be bers rs r dddue ue ue
to to ove ve er rsh sh shin in in ii g, g, sso oo we we we iinc nc ncre re eeas as asin nnngl gl gg y y yy re reelyy ly
on on on iimp mp mp m or or o ts ts ffro ro rom m Ba Baang ng ngla la lade de desh sh sh..
THE ADVANTAGES OF
AQUACULTURE
A AA su su s st st stai ai aina na nna n bl bl bl bl b e e wa wa w y yy to to too iiinc nc ncre re reeeas as aase e se se s af af afoo oo ood dd
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ec c ecos os osys ys ste tems ms m hhhea ea ealt lt lthy hy hhy hhh iiis th thhro ro roug ug ug u h h h
aq q a ua ua uu cu cu cult lt ltur urre. e. e IIIt t t he he he h lp lp lps s s au au au augm gm ggm g en en ent tt th thhhe eee
na na natu tuura ral ll st st toc oc ock k of off sh sh sh, , , th ther er rrrreb eb eb eeby y y re reeedu u duci ci c ng ng ng
th th the e e st stra ra ra ra rain in in ooon n n al al alre re read ad dy yy ov ov over er er er e bu bu bbu bbb rd rd rden en ened ed ed
na na nn tuu tu tt ra ra r l l ll s s he he h ri rii riiies es es s es s e . . Na Na Na a Na NN tu tu tu ttt ra ra rall ll s s s he he herii ries es e hhhav av ave e
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an an an nn aaalt lt lter er erna na nati ti t ve ve vve, ,, aq aq aqua ua uacu cu cult lt ltur ur ure ee ca ccan n he he help lpp
su su uupp pp pp p ly ly ly lllar arge ge e qqqqua ua uant nt nt nntit it tie ie i s s of of of ssea ea eafo fo ff od od od aall
ye ye year ar ar rrrou ou ound nd nd n .
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Na Na Nati ti tion on onnal al al al OOOce ce cean an an a ic ic iic aaand nd nd n AAAtm tm tmos osph ph pher er ric ic ic
Ad Ad Admi mi mini nnist st stra ra rati ti tion on on hhhav av ave e e sh sh sh how ow own nn thhat at a
aq aq aqua ua u cu cuult lt l ur ur u e e po po pose se ses s s a aa lo lo lo looow ww ri risk sk sk to oo th th th t ee
en en en i vi viro roonm nm nmen ent t as as as tthe he hee iimp mp mp m ac act t is is ii ttyp yp ypic iical al ally ly ly
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it it itse se eeeeeelf lf lll eeemp mp mphaa haaaati tiiica ca call ll lly. y.
BUSTING FISH MYTHS
777 Myth 1
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le leve ve vels ls ls. . . Ho Ho Howe we weve ve ver, r, r sssea ea aa eafo fo fo food od od hhhhas as as as aaaaa nnneg eg eeg e lii ligi gii gibl bl ble ee ef ef effe fe fe ect ct ct c iin n n in inncr cr c ea eeea asi sing ng ng LLLDL DL DL ooor r b b bad add cch ch hol ol o es es este te tero rol, l, l ssin ince ce iit t
ha ha hhas s s ve ve ve v ry ry ry llow ow o llev ev vel el el e s s s of of ff of tttttra ra ra raaans ns ns ns ns nnnn aaaand nd nddd sssat at atur ur urat att ated ed ed fffat at ats. s. sss
777Myth 2
Al Al All ll s s shhhh sm smmm smmmel el e l l ba ba bad. d. d
Fact FFFFiss ish h h by by b iiits ts t el el elf f f do do does es es nnnot ot ot hhhav av ave e e aa st st stro ro rong ng ng ooodo doo dour uur. . If Iff iittt is is is ffre re resh sh sh ooor r r st st stor or ored ed ed cccor or orre re rect ct ctly ly ly, , it it wwwil ill l on on only lyy
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po po poor or or qqqua ua uaaaali li lity ty ty aaand nd nd sssssho ho houl ul ulddd be be bee aaaaaavo vvo void idded ed ed..
777Myth 3
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co co comp mp m le le lete te tely ly ly. .. If If Iff yyyou ou ou u aaaaare re re r wwwar ar ary y y of of of mmmer er ercu cu ccury ry ry llev ev eev ee el el e s, s, s, s, s ttthe he hennn av av avoi oi oiddd va vaari riet et etie ies s su su uu such ch ch aaas ss sh ssh shar ar ark, k, k ssswo wo word rd r s s sh, h,
ki kking ng ng mmmac ac acke ke keere re re ee r l l l an an a ddd ti ti ti iile le les s sh. h. h TTThe hee he UUUni ni nite te te teddd St St St tat at ates es e DDDep ep epar artm tm men en eent t t of of of AAAme me meeri ri r ca ca as s s dddie ie ieta ta ta tary ry ry gggui ui uide de deli li line ne nes s s
re re reco co comm mm mmen en enddd ea ea eati ti ing ng ng sssssea ea eafo fo food od od aas s ss th th he ee be be be bbb ne ne neeet t t s s s fa fa f r r r ou ou o twwwwei ei ei e gh gh gh tthe he he ris isks ks ks. ..
777Myth 4
Fi Fish sh sh aand nd nd yyyog og oghu hu hurt rr tttog og g oget et e hee her r ca ca caus us uus use e sk sk sk sk k sss in in in ddis is isea ea ease se se..
Fact Th Th This iss iis s s an aan ooold ld ld wwwwwiv iv ives es es ta ta tale le le aaand nd nd hhas ass nnno o o sc sc scie ie ie ie i nt nt nti i icc c or or mmmmed edic ic ical al al pppro ro rooof of of. . Le Le Leuc uc ucod od der er e ma ma ma iiisss
ca ca aus used ed e bbby y th th the e e de de dest st stru ruu r ct ct cc io io ion n n of of o mmmmel el elan an an annnin inn-p -p -pppro roodu du duuci ci ci cinng ng ng cccel el ells ls, , an annd d d ha ha has s no no nnoth th t innnggg to tooo dddo o o wi wi wi wth th th sssea eafo fo f od od od
or or r yyyog og o hu hurt rtt rtt. . Iff aany ny n th th t in innng, g, g, lleu euco co code derm rmma aaaa iss i aaaaass pr pr prev ev eeval al a en en ent t t am am amon ongs gs gst t t st st tri ri rict ct ct vvveg eg g eg e et etar ar aaria ia ians ns nns aaas s am am amon on ngs gsstt
th th hos ose e wh wh ho o co cons ns ns n um umme e e se se see s af af a oo ood. d. dddd
7777777Myth 5
Fi Fi Fi Fish sh sh sh s cccan an anno noottt be be eeat aten en iiinn n th the e e mo mo m ns ns ns nsoo ooo ooon. n.
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av av av av aaa ai aila la labi bili liity ty ty oof f se se eaf afoo oo oo oo d. dd. d HHHow ow ow ow owev ev ev ever er er, , th th hh th hin innngs gs gs g aaaaare re re r dddddddiiif if ifffe fe fe eeere re re r nt nt nt ttttttod oday ay. Wh Wh When en en iiitt t is iss rrai ai aai a ni ni ning ng ng n oooonnn th th he e we we west st st
co co coas as ast, t, sh sh sh cccan an a bbbe e e br br brrou ou ou u o gh gh gh ghtttt in inn ffro roo rr mm mth th t e e ea ea ast st cccccoa oa ast st st, , , wh wh wher er e e e th theee mo mo mons nss nsoo oo oon n ha ha has s s pa ppa pass ss sss ssed ed ed d aaand nd nd nd tthe he e
br brree ee eedi di ding ng ng ssssea ea eee so so on n is is ooove veeerrr. r. The he rrev ever erse se se hhhol ol l oo ds ds ddd ttru ruue ee as as as wwwel ell. l. l. SSSo o yo yo ou u ca ca can n n en en enjo jo j y y y fr r freees e hhhh s s sh h h ev ev even en en
du du duri ri ri r ng ng ng ttthe heee mmmmon on o so so sso soon on, , wi wi wwwith th hou out t hha ha havi ving ng gggg ttto o o wo wo worr rryy y ab abbbou ou out t t qqu qual alit iity y y or or or sssus usta ta ta t in in in innabbbbbil il ilitty. y. yy.
777Myth 6
Fi Fi F sh sh shh iiiss di di dif f fcu cu cu cu cc lt lt llt ttto o oo co co co c ok ok kk ok
Fact Fi Fi Fi F sh sh sh h iiis s s ac ac ac actu tu tu tt al al aaal aa ly ly tttthe he hee mmmmos os os s os sst tt t ttttt si si si ss mp mp mpple le lee l , , di dive vers rse, e, e, ex ex exib ibble lee le aand nd nd ppal al a at atte- e- e gr grrat attiif ifyi yii ying ng ng iiing ng gggre re rr di di di d en een ent. t. t OOOnc ncce e e
th th thee e s s sh h h is is is ccle leean an an an aned ed ed aaaaand nd ndddddd dddeb eb ebon on on nned ed eee ,,, th the e me me m at at at iis s ve veery rry eeeas as as asy y y to to to ssste team am am, , gr gr g il illl, l, l, tttaw awww awaaaa- a fry y or or or or ooo bbbat at at at aa te e ter rr fr fr fry. y.
Wi Wi With th th eeeac ac achh hh s s ssh hh h h ha ha h vi viing ng ngg ng iits ts ts s oown wn wn uuuni ni n qu que e te ttext xttur ur u e e an annnd d a a vo vo v ur ur ur aaand nd hhhun un undr dr dr d ed ed eds s ss of of ff rec ec ecipppppes es e tttoo ch ch hoo oo oose se se
fr frrom om o , co co cook ok ok kin inng gggg it itt it i cccan ann bbbbe e a a aaa ve ve vv ry ry ry ssat at a is is isssfy fy fyin in i g g ex expe peeri ri ri ri rien ence ce ce, , ev even en n fffor or o nnnov ov oviccces es ss...
SSSeeeaaaffoooooooddd isss nnoootttt wwwiitthhhooouuuuttt iitttsss ooowwwnnn ssssshhhhhaaarreeee oooff mmmyyttthhsss.. WWWhhhiilleee mmmooossstt
ooofff ttthhhheeemmm aaarrreee rrreeeeddduuunnndddaaannntttt ttooodddaaayyy, wweeeee sssttiiillllll fffoolllllooww ttthhheeemm bbllliiinndddllllyyy,,
sssiiimmmppplllyyy ooouuuttt oooffff pppuuurrreee hhhaabbiitt... HHHeerrreeee aaarrreeeee aaa fffeeewww::
40 400 BBC BBC BBCCGo Go Go G odF odF odFood ood ood APR AP APR AA ILL I 222013 0013 0
spotlight
indian sh
spotlight
indian sh
Seer fish (surmai)
Marine sh from the
mackerel family. Firm
and aky meat, great
in curries
Indian salmon
(rawas)
Saltwater sh with a
mild avour that lends
itself particularly well to
European dishes
Pomfret
Marine sh popular
for its thin skin, soft,
buttery avour and
single central bone.
Good for grilling
Indian mackerel
(bangda)
Bony saltwater sh with
a strong, oily avour.
Rich source of Omega-3
fats. Best eaten fried
Grown here,
flown here
not
Meet four game-changing entrepreneurs
who are saving precious food miles by
producing exotic ingredients locally
top producers
made in india
Even ve years ago, brightly coloured
red and yellow bell peppers and
broccoli were the divas of the Indian
vegetable market. They looked daringly
diferent and getting them to put in
an appearance at your humble meal
meant forking out a premium. Today,
they have been upstaged by exotic
veggies with far more mystique Swiss
chard with deep crimson stalks, fuzzy
green edamame pods and almost
neon, punk rocker-ish Romanesco
cauliower. The credit, in no small part,
goes to Trikaya Agriculture, a company
that has made it its business to broaden
the palates of Indian consumers by
introducing them to locally grown
exotic vegetables.
It has been a decidedly uphill
journey for Samar Gupta, CEO of
the company, who took over at the
helm of things in 1997. Samars father
Ravi Gupta, adman and founder of
Trikaya Grey Advertising, had a zeal for
agriculture, experimenting with growing
broccoli back in the late 1980s a time
when the vegetable was so alien as to
be considered cauliower past its go-by
date. Despite such temporary setbacks,
Ravi Gupta continued to dabble with
agriculture on weekends, eventually
buying the farm that now functions as
the companys R&D headquarters, in
Talegaon near Pune.
After his fathers sudden death in
1997, Samar, the only one of three
siblings who shared his fathers passion
for farming, was left holding the reins.
Guided by Manje Gowda, his fathers
able lieutenant who is currently general
manager of the company, he decided
to try his hand at growing crops
such as Chinese cabbage, baby corn,
cherry tomatoes, baby potatoes and
leaf lettuce. The gamble paid of and
the company held the monopoly on
producing iceberg lettuce and baby
corn for nearly ve years.
However, after local farmers found
a way to grow the popular lettuce in
larger volumes and for a lower price,
Gupta and Gowda decided that it
was time to try something new to stay
ahead of the curve. In diversifying
to include newer and newer crops,
they hit upon what has served as the
companys USP especially in the last
decade innovation. The companys
repertoire has expanded to include
delicacies such as creamy palm hearts,
crunchy kang kong or water spinach,
and a whole range of herbs such as
sage, tarragon, oregano, marjoram
and rosemary. For the most part, the
calculated risks that Gupta and Gowda
have taken have reaped benets most
notably by carving a niche for the
Trikaya brand.
The company has now expanded
its operations to a total of eight farms,
which includes ve in Maharashtra and
three in Ooty. The diferent locations
in which the farms are situated ofer a
variety of growing conditions ideal
for the basket of nearly 130 products
that Trikaya now specialises in. For
instance, the cool climate of Ooty
is ideal for fruits such as apples,
blueberries and raspberries and veggies
such as Jerusalem artichokes and
Brussels sprouts, while jackfruits, Thai
seedless guavas and Italian seedless
lemons thrive in the temperate climes
of the farms in the Konkan region of
Maharashtra.
While several of Guptas
experiments have hit bulls eye, some
have opped unexpectedly. Despite
its beautiful ruby hue, there have been
few takers for deep red lettuce. Smitten
with the delicious avour of edible
sweet potato leaves, Gupta and Gowda
were convinced it would do well in the
Indian market. But it was a
resounding failure and the
company now plans to stop
cultivating the plants.
However, there have
also been some sleeper hits.
I thought that Indians
have a sweet tooth so they
would never take to bitter
SAMAR GUPTA,
CEO, TRIKAYA
AGRICULTURE
THE GREEN
GROCER
greens such as rocket, endive, chicory
and radicchio, says Gupta. But the
response has been so overwhelming
that Gupta introduced a pre-packaged
salad featuring these bitter leaves a few
months ago. Its this unpredictability
of the Indian palate that acts as fuel
to Guptas re. I keep going back to
my dads logic: stick it in the ground
and see how the market responds.
Happily for us, Guptas gambles have
been our gain.
Vidya Balachander
Where to buy
Trikaya products
Trikaya products
are available at
the companys
retail outlets in
Crawford Market
and the Dadar
vegetable market
in Mumbai, as
well as gourmet
grocers in the city.
P
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NEED TO KNOW
QTrikaya also has a ready-to-eat salad
mix with iceberg, lollo rosso, green
romaine, red oak leaf and other lettuce
leaves, cherry tomatoes and a pre-
packaged, homespun salad dressing.
QThey also recently introduced a
second salad with bitter radicchio,
rocket, endive and chicory leaves.
Back in 1990, when Vikas Benal, the
founder of Vikas Mushroom Farms
in Solan, Himachal Pradesh took
his rst batch of button mushrooms
to a market in Shimla, the oddly
shaped fungi were a source of great
bewilderment to shoppers. Some
called it factory-made; others thought
it was a non-vegetarian product. In
no uncertain terms, the reaction was
shockingly poor. Today, not only is
Benal one of the leading mushroom
growers in the country, but he can also
be considered the driving force behind
promoting Solan as the mushroom
capital of the country
What has changed in the last two
decades that has turned these cast-of
fungi into the prima donnas of the
vegetable world? From only making
tentative appearances on restaurant
menus to becoming an established
import into Indian home cooking as
well, the humble button mushroom
has arrived. The mushroom revolution
has also heralded the bloom of
exquisite oyster, umami-rich shiitake,
eshy Portobello and delicate enoki
mushrooms. The credit goes to the
government, which has been training
and providing incentives to mushroom
farmers, as well as growers such as
Benal, who have actively encouraged
others to adopt mushroom growing
as a lucrative alternative to traditional
farming.
In a spare room in his Solan home,
with an investment of ` 5,000, Benal
cultivated his rst batch of mushrooms
as an experiment. Luckily for him,
he wagered on the one vegetable that
would see a 100 per cent increase in
demand over the years, and made
a handsome prot on his initial
investment. I saw great potential. The
investment and growing risks were
minimal and it was the best way to
use up agricultural waste and residue,
which I got practically free from
farmers who could not wait to discard
it back then, he says. Gradually, Benal
moved operations out of his home and
purchased a temperature-controlled
unit to make his own compost with
agricultural waste. Once again, this was
a protable move, as it enabled him to
start selling compost as well as spawn
or the reproductive cells from which
mushrooms grow, to other growers.
With limited technological
advancements at the time, it wasnt
until 1996 that Benal air-conditioned
the entire farm and started growing
mushrooms perennially. Mushrooms
require a particular temperature and
humidity to bloom and are highly
perishable due to their high moisture
content. While a bulk of the produce
is sold fresh, the unsold ones that are
nearing their best-by date are dried,
canned or pickled to avoid microbial
spoilage. Although he ensures that
insectidies and pesticides are not
used on the farm, he hasnt applied
for organic certication because the
agricultural waste might contain traces
of urea.
There were some hurdles that Benal
faced that he just couldnt nd any
quick xes for. Creating awareness
about mushrooms and marketing them
in a way that made them accessible
to Indian homes was the biggest
challenge, he says. Ironically, they now
see the highest sales during Navratras.
Our consumption may have grown
by 100 per cent but Indias per capita
consumption of 30g vis-a-vis the
international average of 3kg has great
potential to improve, he reiterates.
With a steely determination to
up this statistic, Benal works closely
with the Solan-based Directorate of
Mushroom Research, a government
led research organisation, to promote
the cause of mushroom farming in
the country. In 2005, he also bagged
the Progressive Mushroom Grower
award granted by the organisation.
What worked in my favour was
that I started small, so I could limit
the amount of economic damage by
making mistakes and learning from
them, says Benal. From learning about
how to grow mushrooms by reading
books to conducting experiments in his
spawn labs, Benal has certainly come
a long way. Along the way, he has also
had to develop and perfect his own
hygiene and safety regulations, which
are absolutely criticial for mushroom
cultivation. With his focus now on
growing shiitake, paddy straw and silky
mushrooms, he says it wont be long
before he once again bemuses shoppers
with his produce. With long and
slender piopinni or outlandish looking
cauliower mushrooms, perhaps?
Kainaz Contractor
VIKAS BENAL,
FOUNDER,
VIKAS
MUSHROOM
FARMS
THE SPAWN STAR
P
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Where to buy
Vikas Mushroom
Farm products:
Vikas Mushroom
Farms
mushrooms
are available
at gourmet
grocers in Shimla,
Chandigarh, New
Delhi, Ludhiana
and Mumbai . Visit
vikasmushrooms.
com for details.
NEED TO KNOW
QApart from oyster and button
mushrooms, Benal is now also
experimenting with exotic
varieties such as shiitake, paddy
straw and silky mushrooms.
QAs an aside to his business,
Benal also supplies spawn and
compost to smaller farmers
to encourage them to grow
mushrooms.
top producers
made in india
rssss
aaaaa
In a country that grew up on stringy,
milky-white Amul cheese sandwiched
between bread and grated over pav
bhaji, gourmet cheese is a concept
that has only recently gained currency.
After all, who would have thought
that salty feta and stinky blue cheese
would one day invade Indian kitchens?
What heralded the march of smoked
gouda and soft gruyere into our store
cupboards? The answer is undoubtedly
complex, but we also have some
pioneering local entrepreneurs to thank
for our introduction to the umami-
packed goodness of the cheese world.
One of these companies is Flanders
Dairy in New Delhi.
Cheese making was a product
of happenstance for Sunil Bhu, the
founder of the company. In 1984, Bhu
spent a couple of years in Diksmuide,
a small town in the Flanders region
of Belgium, gaining some hands-on
experience in assisting on a farm. The
owner of the farm had just begun
to make gouda out of the cow milk
produced on the farm, and Bhu joined
him on his travels to France and
Holland to ne-tune his craft. After
returning to India in 1985, he decided
to pursue this newly gained passion
on a small, three-acre farm owned by
his mother in Bijwasan, near Delhi.
Despite their cynicism about the
viability of his venture, Bhus parents
didnt dissuade him or press him to
make the shift to a full-time job. Still,
the going was tough. It took me nearly
seven years to get started in India.
Everything seemed so much easier in
Belgium. If I had known, I would have
gained some knowledge in India rst,
he says.
Eventually, after several attempts,
Bhu had rened his version of gouda
enough to feel condent about
approaching the owner of Steak
House, a gourmet grocery store in
Delhi. I took him one bowl of cheese
and asked him to try it. The response
was encouraging. At that time,
marketing was easier because there
was hardly anyone making artisanal
cheeses, he says. Starting with a
single cow and a modest operation
that allowed him to process 10 litres of
milk a day, Bhu gradually expanded
his oeuvre. On a trip to Italy, a factory
owner taught him how to make
mozzarella, and also helped him buy
the machinery required to produce it.
Consequent trips to Europe revealed
more cheese secrets.
As with any nascent business in
India, bureaucracy was the biggest
roadblock for Bhu. When I began,
imports were very restricted so
even getting basic ingredients and
machinery required a lot of hard
work, he says. Even though import
rules have now been relaxed and good
quality milk the most signicant
input for the cheese business is now
more readily available, the lack of basic
infrastructure such as good roads and
efcient storage systems still poses a
major hurdle. Setting up an efcient
chain of production from farmer to
factory is not easy. It is much more
difcult for a small farmer to produce
and preserve milk in India than it is in
the West. Once you have access to good
quality milk in India, it is half the battle
won, he says.
Now, the Flanders range of cheeses
has a total of 12 products that includes
not just gouda and mozzarella, but
also bocconcini or fresh bufalo milk
mozzarella, mascarpone, sour cream,
ricotta, goats cheese and quark, a
kind of hung curd cheese made out
of cows milk, among several others.
However, Bhu is cautious about
diversifying too much, since each kind
of cheese has a completely diferent
set of requirements and takes years to
perfect.
Recently, after realising that the
Bijwasan farm where he started out
couldnt be expanded any further to
keep up with the burgeoning demand,
Bhu shifted the companys operations
to a larger factory in Haryana. While
the plant can process up to 25,000
litres of milk a day, the companys
current capacity is 8-9,000 litres. To
keep his focus rmly on the cheese
production process, Bhu also no
longer manages his own cattle, having
established a network of small farmers
who supply him with high-quality milk
that meets his discerning standards.
Despite establishing himself in the
thriving artisanal cheese industry in
India, counting a number of standalone
restaurants and ve-star hotels among
his loyal clientele, Bhu feels the need
to constantly keep abreast of change.
Even today, I make a trip to Flanders
or some other place in Europe just
to update my knowledge, he says.
Thanks to his passion for cheese, the
day might not be far when you only
need to stroll to your local grocery
store to buy Indian-made gorgonzola
or taleggio and we at BBC Good Food
simply cannot wait.
Vidya Balachander
SUNIL BHU,
FOUNDER,
FLANDERS
DAIRY
THE CHEESE
MAKER
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Where to buy
Flanders cheese:
Flanders cheese
is available at
the companys
retail outlet in
Delhi as well as
other gourmet
grocers in major
metropolitan
cities. Visit
andersdairy.com
for details.
NEED TO KNOW
Q The Flanders range has Q
expanded to 12 products
including hard-to-nd
cheeses such as cherry
mozzarella, a kind of fresh
mozzarella, scamorza, sour
cream and qwark (a soft
cows cheese).
top producers
made in india
top producers
made in india
Its all baloney, really. Delicious things
can indeed come out of failed ventures.
In this case, sausages so plump that
they can barely contain themselves in
their casings, slivers of salami studded
with garlic and pepper that are a riot
of taste and texture and legs of dry-
cured smoked ham that are capable
of holding centre stage at Christmas
dinners. When the cows, pigs, chicken
and turkey on his Mysore farm did
not sell, Angelo Fernandes spotted an
opportunity to turn them into steaks,
sausages, meat loaves and smoked
turkey instead. His gamble paid of
and since then, Bamburies has been
synonymous with cured, processed and
quality fresh meats in Bengaluru.
It was the utopian dream of living
in the suburbs on a farm replete with
live stock and fresh produce that
prompted Angelo and his father JB
Fernandes to shift base from East
Africa to Bengaluru more than 35
years ago. Angelo and his father had a
modest plan: to live on a farm and raise
quality livestock for sale. However, this
plan seemed riddled with problems,
the primary one being an organised
stream of demand. At the time,
there were no buyers for what we were
selling. So, in order to ensure a better
market for our produce, we got into
the food processing industry, says
Angelo. In 1973, the Bamburies store
in Richmond Town was started with
a focus on retailing cuts of meat from
the animals raised on the farm. Soon
enough, they started experimenting
with making sausages.
Once people got a taste of
Angelos eforts, it didnt take long for
Bamburies to become the Bengaluru
institution that it is today. What started
out as an outlet for selling fresh meat,
soon turned into a one-stop-shop for
homemade sausages, hams, salamis
and smoked meats. In the initial
years, Bamburies clients were mainly
home cooks but with increasing
consciousness about reducing food
miles, Angelo found a new market in
restaurant chefs. Today, Angelo even
has customers who take back strings of
his signature roasted beef sausages to
other cities such as Delhi and Mumbai.
Looking at Bamburies freezers
lled with meat, its hard to believe
that Angelo has no formal training in
the eld. We learned the business by
trial and error. Our friends gave us
old British books from the 1950s from
which we learnt everything and then
began experimenting, he says. At a
time when processed meat was virtually
NEED TO KNOW
Q The Bamburies range of products includes a wide
variety of sausages such as smoked pork sausages and
beef sausages; cold cuts such as chorizo and parma ham;
processed meats such as smoked chicken and roast beef
and raw seafood.
Q Fernandes smokes his own meat in the small, wood-
red smoking room at the family farm in the outskirts of
Bengaluru.
unheard of, Angelo and his father were
pioneers, custom-making machines
and hand presses for the processed
meats. The duo introduced people to
the joys of dry and wet-cured, smoked
meats long before imported parma
ham and bratwursts occupied our
freezers. Though Bamburies does stock
a fair amount of imported meat such
as parma ham, pepperoni and wurstel
wiener or Viennese sausages, Angelos
attempts at replicating these meats on
home soil are particularly laudable.
His barbecued ham and salami
Milano have been his most successful
creations.
By 1997, business at Bamburies was
picking up and it no longer seemed
feasible for the Fernandes family to
sustain the farm. Fresh meats are
now sourced from vendors across
the country and Angelo says that the
family checks meat consignments on
a daily basis. While he doesnt make
claims of sourcing from organically
certied suppliers, the processed
meats made in-house dont contain
preservatives and additives that would
increase their shelf life.
The success of Bamburies could
have well translated into a number
of outlets and export opportunities
to other cities. However, despite
burgeoning sales, the familys resolve
to keep the enterprise small and locally
centred is strong. For now, Angelo is
content with his single curing room
and batches of homemade brine. In
a way, the story of his success is the
story of Bamburies taking a step
into the future by preserving a bit of
the past.
Kainaz Contractor
Where to buy
Bamburies
products
Shoolay
Circle, General
Thimmaiah
Road, Richmond
Town, Bangalore,
Karnataka. Tel:
+91 80 25301949.
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OWNER,
BAMBURIES
THE MEAT MASTER
Are sugar substitutes a guilt-free indulgence or should you stay away from
saccharine sweetness? BBC Good Food weighs in on the debate
Words VIDYA BALACHANDER
ARTIFICIAL
SWEETENERS
investigates
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need to know
food issues
I
t is somewhat ironic that one
of the most popular articial
sweeteners available in the
market also lends itself to a
less-than-attering epithet. When you
accuse someone of being saccharine,
it usually carries the implication
of being cloyingly sweet, almost
to the point of being unpalatable.
For decades, millions of diabetics
and weight watchers have turned
to saccharin to appease their sweet
tooth. Yet, this popular tabletop
sweetener is several hundred times
sweeter than sugar, a sensation that
borders on bitterness. The important
question to ask is should you turn to
articial sweeteners like saccharin for
guilt-free indulgence or be cautious of
their potent power?
It has been universally
acknowledged that sweetness is one of
the rst sensations that human beings
get accustomed to. As babies, our
initiation to the world of solid food
begins with mashed fruit; savoury
avours enter our taste lexicon only
much later. The human body has
an extraordinary natural afnity for
sugar thanks to its ability to produce
an instant burst of energy, informally
but not incorrectly referred to as a
sugar high. But increasingly, as
scientic research piles up about
the serious lifestyle-related ills
such as diabetes, heart disease and
hypertension that are connected to
a high sugar and high fat diet, sugar,
especially of the rened, granulated
kind, is being seen as nothing less
than toxic for the human body.
This fact only heightens the appeal
of products that replicate the sweet
avour that we cherish so much
but minus the empty calories that
accompany it.
UNDERSTANDING
SWEETENERS
Apart from granulated table sugar,
there are several other sweeteners that
could be used to recreate a similar
taste. Of these, some are of natural
origin, including honey, maple syrup,
molasses and agave syrup, among
others. Those sugar substitutes
that are articially synthesised
compounds of chemical origin are
known as articial sweeteners. The
majority of the sugar substitutes that
are permitted for use as food are
produced articially.
Some non-sugar sweeteners are
known as polyols or sugar alcohols.
This is a somewhat misleading
description because these are neither
sugars nor alcohols. Instead, they
are carbohydrates that are naturally
found in berries, fruits or vegetables
but can also be manufactured to
make commercial sugar substitutes.
Polyols make for handy substitutes to
sugar because they metabolise slowly
and dont ood the body with blood
sugar, as granulated sugar tends to
do. They have also been shown to
be benecial for dental health. Some
popular polyols include sorbitol,
which is commonly found in apples,
peaches, prunes and pears. It is
articially manufactured and used to
avour diet foods such as toothpaste
and diet ice cream. Xylitol is also
a sugar alcohol, which is roughly
as sweet as sugar but with 33 per
cent fewer calories. It is found in
fruits and vegetables such as berries,
mushrooms, oats and even cornhusks
and its commercial uses include
sugar-free chewing gum and mints.
BEST KNOWN SUGAR
SUBSTITUTES
Most popular articial sweeteners
available in the market are known as
high-intensity sweeteners because
they are typically several hundred
times sweeter than sugar. Since their
avour is so concentrated, even a
miniscule quantity of an articial
sweetener is sufcient to recreate
the avour prole of sugar. In other
words, while you may require a
teaspoon of sugar to sweeten a cup
of cappuccino, only one tablet of
an articial sweetener would do the
trick. This has a signicant impact on
your calorie burden on an average,
a teaspoon of sugar contains 15
calories. But you would require so
little of a high-intensity sweetener
that the resultant calories are almost
negligible.
There are six intensely sweet
articial sweeteners that are
commercially available and approved
by the United States Food and Drug
Administration. Out of these, the
most popular ones available in India
include saccharin (better known
by the brand name SweetN Low),
aspartame (commercially available as
Equal) and sucralose (or Splenda).
What all of these articially created
sugar substitutes have in common is
that they put sugar to shame in the
sweetness stakes (see box).
THE HEALTH ANGLE
Ever since articial sweeteners were
rst introduced into the market, they
have been dogged by controversy.
Over the years, several researchers
have tried to draw connections
between popular sweeteners such
as saccharin and aspartame and the
likelihood of developing various kinds
of cancer. But after extensive testing
by various countries, the popularly
used articial substitutes have
received a clean chit. On the other
hand, given that sugar is increasingly
becoming our nutritional arch enemy,
virtually calorie-free substitutes seem
like a reasonable and convenient
alternative. The question is worth
asking should you opt for articial
sweeteners in your daily diet and if so,
what quantity is safe?
The calories removed from the diet
by the sugar-for-sweetener swap may
sneak back in, in the form of refned
carbohydrates and low-quality fats
need to know
food issues
need to know
food issues
Apart from their taste, articial
sweeteners dont have any nutritional
benets, says Dr Rekha Sharma,
president of the Indian Dietetics
Association. They are useful if you
can simply not do without sugar but
if you are looking to lose weight, I
recommend changing your cravings
by reducing your sugar intake instead.
Articial sweeteners are absorbed and
metabolised by the liver and excreted
through the kidney, so those with liver
or kidney conditions should consume
them in moderation.
In the United States, the FDA has
set an Acceptable Daily Intake (ADI)
level for each sweetener, which is
considered to be the maximum amount
that is safe to consume on an everyday
basis during a persons lifetime. In
general, the ADI is set to be about 100
times less than the smallest amount
that might cause health concerns. ADI
is calculated on the basis of milligrams
per kilogram of body weight for
instance, the ADI for aspartame is 50
mg per kg of body weight per day. So a
person who weighs 75 kg can consume a
maximum of up to 3,750 mg per day. To
put the numbers in perspective, a can
of diet soda usually contains about 180
mg of aspartame, so you would have
to drink more than 20 cans a day to go
over the recommended level.
However, although safety parameters
are quite stringent, the onus is still
on consumers to be mindful of how
much and how often they use articial
sweeteners. Since they are much
sweeter than sugar, sweeteners are
self-limiting. However, it is important
that people read labels carefully, says
Dr Sudarshan Rao, assistant director
at the National Institute of Nutrition,
Hyderabad.
TOO MUCH SWEETNESS?
By favouring sugar substitutes over the
real thing, especially for purposes of short-
term weight loss, are we in fact setting
ourselves up for long-term damage? In
December 2011, Dr David S Ludwig,
professor of pediatrics at Harvard
Medical School, wrote in the Harvard
Health Letter, that given their extreme
sweetness, articial sweeteners might
actually create a dependence on sweeter
and sweeter foods. Articial sweeteners
are extremely sweetso people who
habitually consume them may wind
up desensitised to sweetness. Healthful,
satiating foods that are less sweet such
as fruits and vegetables may become
unappetising by comparison. The calories
removed from the diet by the sugar-for-
sweetener swap may sneak back in, in
the form of rened carbohydrates and
low-quality fats. In addition, scientists
from Purdue University studying the
correlation between the dietary habits
and weight gain in animals that had been
fed articially sweetened foods found that
they tended to consume more calories
and gain body weight. This is because
animals tend to associate sweet foods
with being calorie-rich; sugar-free foods
disrupt this natural association, causing
them to eat more and pile on the calories.
So before you turn to sugar substitutes
for weight loss, its worth wondering
whether they are a viable solution.
SACCHARIN ASPARTAME SUCRALOSE
Brand name SweetN Low Equal, Sugar Free Splenda
History Widely used since World War 2 Accidentally discovered in 1965 by Was discovered in 1976 by scientists
James Schlatter, a chemist in Nebraska working with Tate & Lyle at Queen
Elizabeth College.
First approved for use in Canada in 1991
Sweetness level About 300 times sweeter than sugar 200 times sweeter than sugar Almost 600 times as sweet as
sugar, twice as sweet as saccharine,
and three times as sweet as aspartame
Food uses Usually avoided for cooking or Breaks down in the presence of acidic Retains its properties even when heated
baking because of its bitter aftertaste substances and at high temperatures, and hence can be used in baking.
so best avoided when cooking or baking Also used in products having a longer
shelf life, e.g. carbonated drinks and
sugar-free syrups
Medical advice After extensive testing, no concrete Should be avoided by those with Considered safe for consumption by the
evidence has been found that Phenylketonuria or PKN, a genetic FDA and WHO.
links it to cancer in humans, condition where the body cant break
so it continues to be popular. down phenylaline, a component
of aspartame.
SWEETENERS AT A GLANCE
need to know
wellbeing
avocado
healthy ingredient
Creamy-fleshed avocados add healthy fat to your diet,
says nutrition expert Natalie Savona
A
ripe avocado is a very
balanced fruit, comprising
a range of oils, vitamins,
mineraIs and hbre, il is
neither acid nor alkaline and is easily
digestible (unless you have liver
problems). This fruit is a good source
of the antioxidant vitamin E, which is
good for the skin. It is also one of the
richest sources of potassium, essential
for healthy blood pressure and a good
uid baIance in lhe body. Avocado
also contains folic acid, which is
particularly useful for women who
are pregnant, as it is needed for the
development of the foetus. It is also
the number one fruit source of beta
sitosterol, a substance that has been
linked to cancer protection, prostate
health and good cholesterol.
BUT ISNT IT FATTY?
Although it is one of the most
energy-dense natural foods pound
for pound, packed in with the
calories is a mound of goodness.
Seventy per cent of the fat in avocado
is mono-unsaturated oleic acid which
scientists have linked to lower rates
of heart disease, stroke and cancer.
So, even if you are trying to lose
weight, you still need some of the
healthy fats from nutrient-dense
foods such as avocado. Its high fat
content means it is very low on the
glycaemic index, so you feel more
salished afler ealing one.
A VERSATILE FOOD
There are so many ways to include
avocado in your diet. In salads, it
adds a rich creaminess, so you need
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Iess oiI in lhe dressing, lhe same goes
for sandwiches. Make easy dips for
crudits and crackers, or toppings for
jacket potatoes by mashing avocado
with cottage cheese, yoghurt or
hummus. A homemade guacamole
avocado with onion, jalapeo pepper,
tomato, coriander and lime juice, can
be iIed onlo griIIed hsh or chicken.
Half an avocado makes a rich and
satisfying snack: remove the stone,
score lhe esh (sliII in ils skin) and
dress with Tabasco or Worcestershire
sauce, or lemon juice. Avocado also
makes a good addilion lo lhe hrsl
foods for babies, mashed with stewed
apple, cooked pumpkin or sweet
potato. When a fraction under-ripe,
it goes very well with fruit try
a mango, strawberry and avocado
salad tossed with the juice of half a
grapefruit and fresh mint.
Green club sandwich
Makes 2 Q10 minutes Q EASY
QToast 6 slices of wholegrain bread and spread 6 tbsp
hummus evenly over one side of each slice. On one slice
of bread, lay half a sliced avocado, a handful of rocket
leaves and 6 sliced cherry tomatoes. Season with pepper,
then cover with another slice. Pile on the remaining half of
the avocado, another handful of rocket and 6 sliced cherry
tomatoes, season again and top with the third slice of bread.
QPER SERVING 583 kcals, protein 18g, carbs 53g, fat 35g,
sat fat 5g, fibre 12g, sugar 4g, salt 1.27g
need to know
wellbeing
need to know
books
books & cooks
The lowdown on this months top foodie reads
Words KHORSHED DEBOO
You can buy this months
books online at flipkart.com
and landmarkonthenet.com.
Top Secret by Shubhra Krishan
Food festivals and masterclasses
have made coveted recipes of
celebrity chefs more accessible
to home cooks. With Top Secret,
the author aims to do just that but
doesnt quite make the grade. In
this Delhi-centric book, youll nd
Sakuras okonomi yaki sharing
space with Indian Accents fusion
recipes and Zambars appams.
Although clearly instructed, the
lack of an index makes for some
unwieldy navigation. Haphazardly
placed quotes and poorly shot
photographs fail to do justice to
the recipes.
Available from Westland for ` 295
Ahh!
Chocolate
by Sanjeev
Kapoor
Although
a chunk of
the recipes
comprise conventional brownies,
pastries, cookies and cupcakes, the
section on chocolate making left us
intrigued. With simple techniques
to craft chocolate curls, moulded
chocolate, rice crispy bars, pralines
and even chocolate paan, it proves
to be handy to cooks seeking
elementary patissier badges.
And did we mention it makes for
marvellous visual gazing?
Available from Popular Prakashan
for ` 595
The Ultimate Army Cookbook by
Kikky Sihota
Born into an army family and
married into one as well, Kikky
Sihotas latest book is part memoir,
part cookery book. She reminisces
about bygone days through sepia-
tinted photographs, with insights
into occasions where food was
shared and recipes exchanged.
Although a tad anglicised, the
dishes are simple to make, such
as the Chicken Cordon Bleu with
Wine Sauce, good enough to be
devoured in minutes. Our only
grouse the book is bereft of food
photographs. Also, we wish the
author had narrated the stories
behind the nomenclature of
recipes like Grenades and Bombay
Sappers Eggs.
Available from Roli Books for ` 795
Khanna Sutra by Vikas Khanna
The mawkish title of the book
made us cringe but we chose to
overlook it along with the odd
foreword by Deepak Chopra.
Vikas Khannas latest tome
has 60-plus ingenious recipes
using aphrodisiacs as primary
ingredients, with introductory
notes on each. We tried the Red
Potatoes with Almonds and the
Strawberry Cobbler with Almond
Crust both foolproof. Pan-
Seared Orange-Saffron Salmon
may seem like something that
only an experienced chef could
make. But with Khannas recipe,
it makes for a chic Saturday night
meal at home. All you need is
wine and some good music.
Available from Om Books
International for ` 895
Unjunked by Suman Agarwal
Nutritionist Suman Agarwal
aspires to make you eat
right without compromising
on taste. (Baked vada pav
fortied with paneer, anyone?)
These vegetarian recipes are
accompanied by a key with
four quadrants carbs, protein,
bre and dairy. We made the
Date Fudge perfect to curb
mid-morning hunger pangs.
The Oats Upma was ready (and
consumed) in a jiffy but the
Garden Vegetables with Tofu was
doused in ketchup. The Calorie
Swap segment tells you to run
for 25 minutes to redeem a vodka
tonic, though we are crushed
that a brownie sundae is deemed
unpardonable.
Available from Selfcare for ` 799
Mock mayo sandwich
Serves 4 Q25 minutes QEASY
Recipe courtesy UNJUNKED
Mix 4 cups fat-free curd, 1/2
cup grated carrots, 1 chopped
capsicum, 4 tsp powdered sugar
and salt in a bowl. Heat 1 tsp
mustard seeds in 1 1/2 tbsp oil.
Once the seeds begin to splutter,
add 25g curry leaves. Remove
from the heat and add 1/2 tsp
red chilli powder. Add this to
the curd mixture. Divide the
mixture into 4 equal portions
and evenly spread between
8 slices of whole wheat
bread. Sparingly apply some
butter on the outer sides
of the sandwich. Heat 1 tsp
mustard seeds and 25g
curry leaves on a tawa. Grill
each sandwich on the tawa till
golden brown on each side. Recipe courtesy UNJUNKED Healthy eating for weight
loss Photograph PAWAN MANGLANI
Try this recipe!
need to know
food shows
Whats on
ON THE PLATE
GUILT FREE
Mindful eating is clearly
the buzzword for 2013. But
that doesnt mean having to
grudgingly pile on austere,
avourless food on your plate. In
the second season of her popular
show Guilt Free, Seema Chandra,
anchor and Food Editor of NDTV
Good Times, shows how to accrue
caloric karma by swapping a few
ingredients or making healthy
choices that count.
True to her cooking style,
Chandra doesnt crimp on the avour department in this
recipe for an Indian-style prawn stew. Try it for yourself.
Prawn stew
Serves 6Q50 minutes + marinating QEASY
prawns 20, vinegar 1 tbsp, r freshly ground black pepper to r
season, star anise 2, fennel seeds 1 tsp, cinnamon a 2 inch
piece, cloves 12, black cardamom (badi elaichi) 3, whole
peppercorns 1 tsp, olive oil 2 tbsp, onions 2, nely chopped,
garlic 1 tsp, nely chopped, c turmeric 1/4 tsp, coriander
powder 1 tsp, green chillies 3-4, slit, coconut milk 2 cups,
coconut water 1 cup, salt to season, curry leaves 20
QIn a bowl, marinate the prawns with vinegar and freshly
ground black pepper.
QRoast the star anise, fennel seeds, cinnamon, cloves,
cardamom and whole peppercorns in a pan until fragrant.
Grind in a blender to make the roasted masala for the stew.
QIn a deep pan, heat a tablespoon of oil. Saut the onions
and garlic till the onions look glossy. Add the green chillies,
along with the turmeric and coriander powder and saut for
a few more minutes.
QNow add the coconut milk and coconut water. Let the
stew come to a boil, and then add 3/4 of the roasted masala
mix. Lower the temperature and season with salt. Let it
simmer for 10 minutes.
QMeanwhile, in a at pan, heat the remaining oil and saut
the marinated prawns. Add the curry leaves.
QAs soon as the curry looks ready, add the
prawns and sprinkle over the remaining
roasted masala. Quickly take it off the
heat and serve with appams.
Guilt Free airs on Wednesdays at
9.30pm on NDTV Good Times
Tune in to this months best food TV
FOOD STAR
TTE--TTE with ANJUM ANAND
TV TASTING
SEEMA
CHANDRA
MEDIA MUST-HAVES
APP: FOODSPOTTING
Build up an appetite by browsing through the
photographs on this app, which allows users to
share their foodie experiences by way of pictures. This is a
great way to explore your neighbourhood a users photos
led us to discover a Bengali restaurant in our vicinity we had
never heard about.
WEBSITE: STONE SOUP
This website by blogger Jules Clancy redenes rapid cooking,
with the recipes taking no more than ve ingredients and
a few minutes to prepare. Clancy is especially partial to
vegetarian dishes and the photos are drool worthy.
BLOG: GLOBETROTTER DIARIES
Armchair travelling that allows you to taste the world through
delicious photographs and recipes what could be better?
This website lets you to live vicariously through the eyes
of Karen and Valerie, two best friends who travel and cook
together.
The talented cook and TV show host on all things food
At home Im as likely to cook Thai, Italian or
French as Indian food, especially if I have Indian
friends coming for dinner. When I changed
careers from business to food I wanted to
experience diferent cuisines and all aspects of
the food world before committing to one area. I
worked in restaurant kitchens around the world
including the Park Royal Hotel in New Delhi,
Caf Spice in New York, Asia de Cuba in Los
Angeles Mondrian Hotel and for Tommy Tangs
catering company, also in LA.
If Im meeting up with friends I like to go to new restaurants or ones that Ive
heard about. I have my rm favourites, too; Yauatcha in Soho for dim sum and
Caldesi in Marylebone for Italian trattoria cooking.
I like to buy my food in as natural a state as possible. I do use supermarkets
but mostly I go to my local shops. Luckily I have a couple of great delis
and organic shops nearby. Its proven that food doesnt provide as much
nourishment as it did 50 years ago because its now farmed faster. However, if
I had to choose my last meal on this earth, it would be junk food, and lots of it.
Plus a really rich and yummy Italian red wine, such as an Amarone.
As told to ALI ALDERMAN
Tom yam siam
Mix 60ml vodka, 30ml Malibu rum,
3 lychees in syrup, 15ml lime juice
and 20ml sugar syrup together.
Serve in a rock glass and garnish with
3 lemongrass stalks, 1 kaffir lime
leaf and 3 thinly sliced chillies.
Mango sticky rice
Mix 60ml vodka, 60ml Malibu
rum, 1/2 sliced mango, 15ml Thai
lemon juice and 30ml vanilla syrup
together, saving a piece of the mango
half for the garnish. Serve in a martini
glass, garnish with the remaining
mango and a pinch of sesame seeds
and top with some coconut cream.
Tangerine lemon
Mix 45ml vodka, 30ml Cointreau,
30ml orange juice, 3 crushed
cloves, 45ml lemon juice, 45ml
vanilla syrup and 3 dashes of
orange bitters together. Serve in a
long glass and garnish with an orange
peel and a clove.
ffir lime
hillies.
e
ASY
alibu
5ml Thai
nilla syrup
the mango
in a martini
maining
ame seeds
t cream.
nnn
ASY
ointreau,
shed
45ml
es of
erve in a
h an orange
Thai tang mou
Mix 60ml rum, 90ml fresh
watermelon juice, 35ml sugar syrup,
15ml lemon juice and 15ml ginger
juice together. Serve in a long glass
and garnish with basil leaves.
Chilli Bloody Mary
Mix 30ml spice-infused vodka,
75ml tomato juice, 15ml
lime juice, 2 dashes each of
Worcestershire sauce and
Tabasco together. Add salt and
pepper. Serve in a rock glass
and garnish with celery and lime
wedges.
high on Thai
Sweet, sour and spicy, these Asian-inspired cocktails will give you one
hell of a flavour kick
Recipes FOUR SEASONS HOTEL, BANGKOK Photograph RITAM BANERJEE
drink up
night out
eat in
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for `700
7
meals
`696.5
TOTAL FOR
7 MEALS
*
MONDAY
Spicy butter bean soup
onion 1, nely chopped
garlic clove 1, crushed
ginger a small chunk, grated
olive oil 1 tbsp
carrot 1, grated
cumin powder 1 tsp
coriander powder 1/2 tsp
paprika 1/2 tsp (try Keya available at
gourmet stores)
vegetable stock 500ml
butter beans 400g, boiled
QCook the onions, garlic and ginger
gently in oil until softened. Add the
carrot and spices and cook for
2 minutes.
QAdd the vegetable stock and simmer
for 5 minutes. Add the butter beans and
cook for 10 minutes. Ladle half the soup
into a blender or food processor and
whizz until smooth. Pour back into the
pan and gently reheat before serving.
Q PER SERVING 174 kcals, protein 9.3g,
11.1g, salt 1.8g
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TUESDAY
Peking-style chicken
with spring onion
g y g y
stir-fry
p
whole chicken thighs 4
Chinese five spice 2 tsp (try
Dynasty available at gourmet
stores)
honey 2 tsp
soy sauce 1 tsp
Chinese cabbage 1/2 small head,
shredded
spring onions 6, shredded
ginger a small chunk, julienned
red chilli 1, shredded
groundnut oil 75ml
QHeat the oven to 200C. Put
the chicken thighs on a baking
tray and cook for 10 minutes.
Mix the ve spice, honey and
soy. Drain away any excess fat
from the chicken then brush all
over with the mix and cook for a
further 10 minutes.
QIn the meantime, stir-fry the
vegetables in groundnut oil for
a couple of minutes until crisp.
Serve the veggies with the
chicken.
Q PER SERVING 482 kcals, protein
*Recipe costings are based on the
amounts of ingredients used, eg 125g
butter is costed at half the price of a 250g
pack. The store cupboard ingredients are
not included in the costing; we assume
that these are consumed daily and do not
need to be especially purchased.
Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE R
Photographs LARA HOLMES P
BBC GoodFood APRIL 2013
everyday everyday
WEDNESDAY
Roasted red pepper
hash with fried eggs
baby potatoes 250g, halved
olive oil 1 tbsp
red onion 1/2 small, chopped
roasted red peppers from a jar 2, torn
into pieces (try Jamie Oliver available
at gourmet stores)
salt and pepper to season
parsley a small bunch
eggs 2, fried, to serve
chilli sauce to serve
QBoil the potatoes until tender,
drain then cool. Heat the olive oil in a
large non-stick frying pan and fry the
potatoes, turning over until golden
and crisp. Add the onion and fry for
another 3-4 minutes. Add the peppers
and heat through. Season, then stir
through the parsley. Serve the potatoes
topped with the eggs and chilli sauce.
Q PER SERVING 422 kcals, protein 15g,
carbs 45.2g, fat 21g, sat fat 4.2g, fibre
4.4g, salt 0.3g
THURSDAY
Roasted cauliower
with barley and herbs
cauliflower 1/2 head, broken into small
orets
onion 1/2, chopped
cumin powder 1 tsp
coriander powder 1/2 tsp
turmeric 1/2 tsp
chilli flakes a pinch
groundnut oil 1 tbsp
pearl barley 100g (try Down to Earth
lemon 1, zested and juiced
mixed herbs (use parsley, coriander
and mint) a handful
yoghurt to serve
QHeat the oven to 200C. Put the
cauliower and onion in an ovenproof
dish or tin. Add the spices and oil and
toss together. Roast for 20 minutes
until tender.
QBoil the barley in salted water until
tender then drain well and put in a
large bowl. Tip in the hot cauliower
and the lemon juice and zest and toss
together. Add the herbs and toss again.
Serve with yoghurt on the side.
20.8g, carbs 92g, fat 16.5g, sat fat 3.2g,
VEG IT
Substitute the
fried eggs with
grilled slabs of
paneer
FRIDAY
Quick prawn gumbo
smoked streaky bacon 4 rashers,
chopped
groundnut oil 50ml
onion 1, nely chopped
garlic cloves 2, chopped
celery 2 stalks, sliced diagonally
plain flour 1 tsp
tomatoes 200g, small, chopped
chicken stock 200ml
green pepper 1, cut into chunks
thyme 2 sprigs
cayenne pepper 1 tsp (try Keya
smoked hot paprika a good pinch
raw tiger prawns 200g, peeled
flat-leaf parsley a small bunch
steamed rice to serve
SATURDAY
Rigatoni al forno
Serves 2 Q30 minutes + baking
Q EASY
rigatoni 150g (try Barilla available at
gourmet stores)
mozzarella a small ball, diced
grana padano 1 tbsp, grated (try
Zanetti available at gourmet stores)
THE PASTA SAUCE
oil 1/2 tbsp
pork or chicken and herb sausages
3, skinned or cubed
garlic clove 1, crushed
fennel seeds 1/2 tsp, crushed
rosemary 1 tsp, chopped
tomatoes 400g, small, chopped
QTo make the sauce, heat the oil in a
non-stick frying pan. Add the sausages
and cook, breaking them up as they
brown, so you have small pieces. Add
the garlic, fennel and rosemary and
cook for a couple of minutes.
QAdd the tomatoes then simmer for
20 minutes until thickened. Cook the
pasta but keep an eye on it, and stop
cooking when it is a couple of minutes
away from being done you will be
cooking it more in the oven so you
want it to still have a bit of bite.
QMix the pasta with the sauce and
tip into a baking dish. Scatter over the
mozzarella and grana padano and bake
for 20-30 minutes until bubbling and
golden. Serve with a salad.
13.6g, fibre 2g, salt 2.5g
QCook the bacon in groundnut oil
until crisp, then add the onion, garlic
and celery. Cook until softened and
starting to colour. Sprinkle over the
our and cook, stirring until the bacon,
vegetables and our turn golden.
QTip in the tomatoes and keep stirring
till everything is combined. Stir in
the stock then add the green pepper,
thyme, cayenne and paprika. Season
really well. Simmer for 15-20 minutes
until thickened. Add the prawns and
cook for 3-4 minutes until just cooked
through. Stir in the parsley and serve
with rice.
carbs 13.6g, fat 14g, sat fat 4.3g, fibre
5.6g, salt 2.8g
eat in
everyday
eat in
everyday

eat in
everyday
eat in
everyday
FOR A LIST
OF STORES
THAT STOCK
GOURMET
INGREDIENTS,
TURN TO P 151
SUNDAY
Roast pumpkin, blue
cheese and sage tart
Serves 2 Q1 hour 15 minutes Q EASY
You can make a round or rectangular
tart just roll the pastry about 3cm
larger than you want the tart and fold
the edges over to form the shell. Goats
cheese would also work well.
plain flour 100g + extra for dusting
butter 50g
parmesan 50g
egg 1 + 1 for glazing
pumpkin 250g, peeled and cubed
olive oil 1 tbsp
roquefort cheese 50g
sage leaves a small handful, shredded
QHeat the oven to 200C. Whizz the
our and butter to breadcrumbs in a
food processor. Add half the parmesan,
seasoning and the egg and pulse to a
dough. Wrap in cling-lm and chill.
QMeanwhile, toss the pumpkin with
oil and lots of seasoning. Spread in
a single layer on a baking sheet and
roast for 20 minutes. Cool while you
roll out the pastry.
QUse a little extra our to dust the
work surface then roll out the pastry
to a rough 30cm x 20cm rectangle.
Put on a clean non-stick baking sheet.
Arrange the pumpkin on the pastry,
leaving a wide 3cm border. Dot over
the cheese and scatter the sage and
the rest of the parmesan. Bring up the
edges of the tart to make a freeform
shell. Glaze with egg or milk then cook
for 30 minutes until crisp and light
golden. Serve warm.
carbs 47g, fat 41.4g, sat fat 24.1g, fibre
3.5g, salt 2g
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These lunches are quick and easy to prepare whether youre eating them on the
go or packing them up for work
Quick lunches
Smoked salmon wrap
Recipe JUSTINE PATTISON
Mix 1 tbsp horseradish sauce with e
1 tbsp mayonnaise, then spread equally
over 2 tortillas. Divide 2 handfuls
of arugula, 50g cooked, julienned
beetroot and 1 julienned carrot on top.
Add 75g smoked salmon. Sprinkle some
hot paprika. Fold up the bottom of the .
tortillas to cover a quarter of the lling,
then fold in the sides. Wrap in cling-lm.
2.8g, salt 2.5g
Carrot and hummus
roll-ups
Recipe ROSIE REYNOLDS
Spread 200g hummus between
4 tortilla wraps. Coarsely grate
4 carrots and scatter on top of the
hummus, then add a small handful of
rocket leaves and some seasoning. Roll
up and pack.
QPER SERVING 355 kcals, protein 10g,
carbs 37g, fat 19g, sat fat 3g, fibre 6g,
sugar 8g, salt 1.09g
Prawn cocktail rolls
Recipe ROSIE REYNOLDS
Mix 3 tbsp mayonnaise with 1 tbsp
ketchup and a few drops of Tabasco.
Mix in 200g small cooked prawns.
Shred 2 lettuce leaves, then scatter
over the middle of 3 whole wheat
wraps. Top each with the prawn cocktail
mix and some seasoning. Roll up and
serve with extra Tabasco.
sugar 3g, salt 2.24g P
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eat in
lunchbox
Whip up these delicious
recipes in 20 minutes or less
Ready
in 20
Rice noodles with
prawns, edamame and
grapefruit
rice noodles 25g, soaked in boiling
water until soft, rinsed and drained (try
Blue Elephant available at gourmet
stores)
edamame beans 150g, boiled
grapefruit 1, 1/2 juiced and 1/2
segmented
prawns 200g, cooked and peeled
red onion 1/2, small, thinly sliced into
half-moons
chilli sauce 1 tbsp
root ginger 2cm piece, grated
fish sauce 1 tbsp (try Ayam available at
gourmet stores)
golden caster sugar 1 tsp (try Tate &
Lyle available at gourmet stores)
mint or coriander leaves to serve
QPut the noodles in a bowl. Add the
edamame beans, grapefruit segments,
prawns and red onion. Mix the chilli
sauce, ginger, sh sauce, grapefruit
juice and the sugar, and pour over
the salad. Season to taste. Toss and
sprinkle with some fresh mint or
coriander.
14.1g, carbs 65.9g, fat 5g, sat fat 1g, fibre
4.4g, salt 1.66g
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REALLY
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QUICK
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eevvvveeeerrrryyyyyddddaaaayyyy everyday
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Cobb salad with turkey and avocado
(recipe overleaf)
Cobb salad with turkey
and avocado
avocado 1, small, peeled and cut into
pieces
roast turkey or chicken breast
200g, chopped
tomatoes 100g, small, quartered
arugula 50g, leaves only
smoked bacon 2 slices, fried
THE DRESSING
extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp
roquefort cheese 2 tbsp, crumbled
red wine vinegar 1 tbsp (try Cirio
Linguine with cherry
tomatoes and goats
cheese
linguine 200g
cherry tomatoes 125g, halved
green olives a handful, pitted and halved
(try Fragatta available at gourmet stores)
capers 1 tbsp, rinsed (try Epicure available
at gourmet stores)
basil 25g, roughly chopped
goats cheese 50g (try Lemnos
QCook the pasta following the packet
instructions, then drain. Meanwhile, tip the
tomatoes, olives, capers and basil into a
bowl and season well.
QTip in the pasta and toss to combine. Add
the goats cheese in blobs and toss once.
sugar 6g, salt 2.25g R
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dijon mustard 1 tsp (try American
Garden available at gourmet stores)
QTo make the dressing, mix the olive
oil with the other ingredients in a
small bowl and season.
QArrange all the salad ingredients,
except the bacon, on a serving plate.
Crumble over the bacon and spoon
over the dressing just before serving.
PER SERVING 434 kcals, protein 36.6g,
carbs 2.9g, fat 30.8g, sat fat 7.5g,
fibre 2.6g,
REALLY
REALLY
EASY
VEG IT
By using
crumbled goats
cheese instead
of the mackerel
Mackerel, beetroot and
cucumber tartine
mackerel 200g, tinned
cucumber 1/4, deseeded and diced
golden caster sugar 2 tsp (try Tate & Lyle
cider vinegar 2 tbsp (try American Garden
dill 1 tbsp, chopped
dijon mustard 1 tbsp (try American Garden
brown bread 2 slices, lightly toasted
beetroot 2, cooked and sliced
QRemove the skin from the mackerel and
discard. In a small bowl mix the cucumber
with 1 tsp sugar, 1 tbsp vinegar, dill and
season. In another bowl, mix the mustard
and the remaining sugar and vinegar.
Spread the mustard mixture on each slice
of bread. Top with the beetroot and aked
sh. Spoon over the relish and serve
with salad.
carbs 28.7g, fat 31.5g, sat fat 7.5g, fibre 1.5g,
salt 2.93g
Spicy chicken, mango
and jalapeo salad
cherry tomatoes 250g, sliced
jalapeos 2 tbsp, nely chopped
(try Old El Paso available at gourmet
stores)
coriander a handful, roughly chopped
lime 1, juiced + more halves to serve
red onion 1 small, nely chopped
chicken breasts 4, cooked (marinated
with salt, pepper, garlic and olive oil,
grilled and shredded)
lettuce leaves 2, torn into bite-sized
pieces
red pepper 1, deseeded and sliced
mango 1, stoned, peeled and diced
tortilla chips a handful, broken (try
Lady Liberty available at gourmet
stores)
QPut the cherry tomatoes, jalapeos,
coriander, lime juice, onion and oil in a
large bowl with some seasoning.
QPop the remaining ingredients,
except the tortilla chips, on top of the
dressing. Gently mix the salad together
to coat. Sprinkle the tortilla chips over
the top and serve immediately with
lime halves.
sugar 15g, salt 1.5g R
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Crisp tofu with ginger
and chilli
firm tofu 1 pack, drained and cut into
large cubes
flour for dusting
oil 100ml
root ginger 1 tbsp, nely shredded
red chilli 1, nely shredded
shallots 2, cut into thin rings
spring onions 2, nely sliced
rice vinegar 2 tbsp (try Blue Dragon
sesame oil 2 tbsp
mirin 2 tbsp (try Mizkan available at
gourmet stores)
steamed rice to serve
QDust the tofu in our. Heat the oil in
a wok until very hot, then fry the tofu
until crisp and lift out.
QTip out all but 1/2 tbsp oil and add
the ginger, chilli, shallots and onions.
Stir-fry quickly, then add the rice
vinegar, sesame oil and mirin and
spoon over the tofu. Season to taste.
Serve with rice and drizzle over extra
vinegar and sesame oil, if you like.
Discover the surprising versatility of this deliciously stinky fruit in
both its raw and ripe forms
Cooking with
JACKFRUIT
Recipes AMIT PAMNANI Photographs PRATEEKSH MEHRA
Props courtesy THE SHOP, SANCTUM, FAB INDIA, LE MILL
The jackfruit can either be used
when young and raw or when
it turns ripe and yellow. The
younger variety needs to be cooked
before use, while the ripe one
can be eaten straight after it is
peeled. The meaty texture of raw
jackfruit makes it a great substitute
for meat. These recipes ofer a
contemporary twist on the jackfruit,
transforming it into something
exciting, colourful and fresh.
Amit Pamnani, Associate food editor, BBC Good Food P
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eat in
in season
Sweet and spicy apple
and jackfruit salad
This healthy salad is devoid of oil and
has lots of vegetables that impart
colour and crunch. With its sweet, spicy
and sour Thai-inspired flavours, it is a
refreshing and nutritious way to tickle
your taste buds.
raw jackfruit 200g, peeled and cubed
green apple 1
raw mango 1
carrot 1
spring onions 2 tbsp, chopped
coriander 1 tbsp, chopped
red chillies 2, slit lengthwise
salt to taste
black pepper 1 tsp, crushed
sweet chilli sauce 2 tbsp
peanuts 30g, roasted, peeled and
crushed
QBoil the jackfruit in a pressure
cooker, one whistle should be enough.
Drain the boiled jackfruit and let it
cool. Slice the apple, raw mango and
carrot very thinly. Cut each slice of the
vegetables into thin juliennes.
QFlake the cooled jackfruit into big
chunks with your hands. Mix the
jackfruit, apple, raw mango, carrot,
spring onions, red chillies, salt, pepper
and sweet chilli sauce together. Garnish
with roasted peanuts.
Jackfruit kebabs
These melt-in-the-mouth kebabs made
with jackfruit will surely become one of
the permanent fixtures on your party
menus. Simple to make and high on
taste, these kebabs are best served as
starters.
potato 1/2, boiled and peeled
paneer 50g, grated
bread 3 slices
green chillies 1-2, chopped
red chilli powder 1 tsp
amchoor powder 1 tsp
salt to taste
coriander powder 1 tsp
ginger 1 tsp, grated
breadcrumbs 1/2 cup
oil 4 tbsp
QBoil the jackfruit in a pressure
cooker till tender, one whistle should be
enough. Drain the jackfruit and mash
along with the potato and paneer.
QAdd the rest of the ingredients and
mix well; it should be dough-like.
QDivide the dough into small balls and
atten each ball in the shape of a kebab.
QDust each kebab with breadcrumbs
on both sides.
QHeat oil in a non-stick pan and
shallow-fry the kebabs in batches on a
slow ame, till golden and crisp on both
sides. Serve hot with mint chutney.
Jackfruit biryani
Serves 4 Q1 hour QA LITTLE EFFORT
This unusual biryani will give any mutton
biryani a run for its money. With its
slight chewiness and neutral flavour, the
jackfruit absorbs all the goodness of
the whole spices, lending the biryani a
beautifully well-rounded flavour.
THE RICE
oil 3 tbsp
shah jeera 1/2 tsp
cinnamon stick 1
bay leaf 1
green cardamoms 2-3
cloves 2-3
black peppercorns 2-3
basmati rice 400g
salt to taste
water 700ml
THE JACKFRUIT
oil 3 tbsp + extra for deep frying
cumin seeds 1 tsp
black cardamom 1
onions 3, chopped
ginger-garlic paste 1 tsp
turmeric powder 1 tsp
chilli powder 1 tsp
coriander powder 1 tbsp
tomatoes 4, chopped
salt to taste
yoghurt 6 tbsp, whisked
THE LAYERING
onions 2, sliced and deep-fried until
golden
cashewnuts 2 tbsp, fried
coriander leaves 2 tbsp, chopped
mint 2 tbsp, chopped
saffron a generous pinch, soaked in
2 tbsp warm milk
garam masala powder 2 tsp
rosewater 2 tbsp
lemon juice 2 tbsp
butter 2 tbsp
QTo make the rice, heat the oil in a
large saucepan. Add the shah jeera,
cinnamon, bay leaf, cardamoms,
cloves and black peppercorns. Add the
basmati rice and salt. Stir the rice in
the oil and saut for 2-3 minutes.
QAdd the water and cover the pan
with a lid. Bring to a boil and then
simmer for 10 minutes. Switch off the
gas and let the lid be on the pan. Let
the rice rest for 10 minutes. Fluff with a
fork and let it cool.
QFor the jackfruit, heat oil in a wok.
Once hot, add the jackfruit pieces and
deep-fry till golden. Drain and keep
aside.
QHeat 3 tbsp oil in a pan, add cumin
seeds and black cardamom. After they
begin to splutter, add the chopped
onions and saut on a medium ame
till light brown. Add the ginger-garlic
paste and saut for a minute.
QAdd the spices and saut for a
minute. Add the chopped tomatoes
and salt and cook for 5-6 minutes. Add
the yoghurt and switch off the gas. Add
the fried jackfruit pieces and stir well.
QIn a baking dish of suitable size,
spoon half of the jackfruit mixture at
the bottom. Add half of the cooled rice
and spread evenly.
QThereafter, spread half of the
fried onions, cashewnuts, chopped
coriander, mint and the soaked saffron.
Sprinkle garam masala powder,
rosewater and lemon juice evenly over
the rice.
QPut blobs of soft butter over the rice.
Add the remaining jackfruit gravy on
top and cover with the remaining rice.
Sprinkle over the rest of the layering
ingredients; cover the dish with
aluminum foil.
QHeat the oven to 180C and place
the biryani for 25 minutes. Serve hot.
eat in
in season
eat in
in season
Thai stir-fry jackfruit
Fresh vegetables, crispy jackfruit and
aromatic spices combine lend a heady
aroma, taste and texture to this flavour-
packed stir-fry. Quick to prepare and
full of colour, it transforms bland, raw
jackfruit into a culinary experience.
oil 2 tbsp + extra for deep frying
spring onions 3, peeled and halved,
white part only + 2 tbsp extra, chopped
bell pepper 1, diced
coconut milk 200ml
cashewnuts 2 tbsp, roasted
basil leaves 2-3
THE STIR FRY PASTE
spring onions 3-4, sliced, bulbs only
red chilli 1
ginger 1 tsp, chopped
garlic cloves 2-3
kaffir lime leaves 3-4
lemon juice 1 tbsp
fish sauce 2 tbsp (try Ayam available
at gourmet stores)
basil leaves 1/2 cup
olive oil 2 tbsp
soy sauce 2 tbsp
sugar 1 tsp
QTo make the paste, blend all the
ingredients to a smooth pure.
Keep aside.
QHeat oil in a wok and deep-fry the
jackfruit cubes until golden and crisp.
Drain and keep aside.
QIn a clean wok, heat 2 tbsp oil. Add
the spring onions and bell peppers
and saut on high heat. Add the fried
jackfruit cubes and toss well. Add the
stir fry paste and coconut milk to the
vegetables and mix well. Add roasted
cashewnuts, basil leaves and 2 tbsp
chopped spring onions. Season well and
serve hot.
Baked jackfruit
stroganof pie
Serves 4 Q1 hour QEASY
Heres a modern twist to the traditional
stroganoff with the meat replaced by
jackfruit. The flaky, golden puff pastry
crust cracks with a beautiful crunch and
contrasts beautifully with the creamy
inside.
butter 50g
onions 50g, sliced
button mushrooms 200g, sliced
brandy 50ml
water 50ml
gherkins 75g, sliced
dijon mustard 1 tbsp (try Roland
cream 325ml
salt to season
raw jackfruit 200g, peeled, cubed and
boiled
rolled puff pastry 100g (try Jus Rol
QHeat the butter in a pan. Add the
sliced onions and saut till golden brown.
QAdd the sliced mushrooms and saut
for 2 minutes. Add the brandy and cook
for 30 seconds until the alcohol burns
off.
QAdd water, gherkins, mustard and
cream. Bring to a boil and simmer for
10 minutes until the sauce thickens.
Season well. Add the boiled jackfruit
pieces and switch off the gas.
QPlace the jackfruit stroganoff in an
ovenproof baking dish. Cover the top
of the baking dish with the rolled puff
pastry. Trim the falling edges of the
pastry from the sides of the baking dish.
Bake in a preheated oven at 180C for
25 minutes until the pastry is golden.
Serve hot.
eat in
in season
eat in
in season
If puff pastry
is unavailable,
you could also
use shortcrust
pastry as a
substitute
Jackfruit gnocchi with
fresh tomato and
mozzarella sauce
This is a novel take on the Italian classic.
Jackfruit, which doesnt grow in Italy, is
used in this recipe to add a twist of taste
to the classic gnocchi in tomato sauce.
This restaurant-style dish is sure to raise
eyebrows at any social gathering.
THE GNOCCHI
potato 1, baked
raw jackfruit 200g, peeled, cubed and
boiled
flour 10g
salt to taste
pepper 1 tsp
fresh oregano 1 tsp, chopped
parmesan 1 tbsp, grated
parsley 1 tbsp, chopped
THE SAUCE
olive oil 3 tbsp
onion 1/2, nely chopped
tomatoes 5, chopped
salt to taste
pepper 1 tsp
basil leaves 3-4
mozzarella 3 tbsp, cubed
parmesan shavings a handful
QTo make the gnocchi, peel the baked
potato and mash well. Mix the boiled
jackfruit, potato, our, salt, pepper, fresh
oregano, parmesan and parsley together
to form a dough.
QTake small portions of the dough and
roll into pillow-shaped balls. They can be
used directly or can be rolled over the back
of a fork to give a ridged effect.
QBoil plenty of salted water in a pan. Drop
the dumplings into the boiling water and wait
till they start oating, approximately
1 minute. Drain the gnocchi and keep aside.
QTo make the sauce, heat 2 tbsp olive oil in
a pan. Add the chopped onions and garlic.
Saut till the onions become translucent and
the garlic begins to brown.
QAdd the chopped tomatoes and let the
sauce simmer for 10 minutes. Add salt, pepper
and basil leaves to the sauce. Lastly, add the
cubed mozzarella and switch off the gas.
QTo serve, place the tomato sauce on a
plate. Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a pan. Toss the
gnocchi in the oil for a minute. Arrange it on
top of the tomato sauce and garnish with
parmesan shavings.
3.23g, salt 0.3g
Jackfruit kul
Serves 4 Q30 minutes + overnight freezing
QEASY
Cool off in the summer months with this
unusual yet heavenly frozen dessert made of
sweet jackfruit, milk and nuts.
ripe jackfruit 100g, peeled and aked
milk 220ml
condensed milk 100g
saffron a pinch
sugar 30g
cornflour 10g
pistachios 2 tbsp, chopped
QPure half the jackfruit and chop the
remaining half. Keep aside.
QPut 200ml milk and the condensed milk
in a pan and bring to a boil. Once boiled,
simmer and add saffron, sugar and the
jackfruit pure. Cook for 10 minutes.
QMix the cornour with 20ml milk and add
to the pan. Let it cook for 5 more minutes
and then switch off the gas. Add pistachios
and the chopped jackfruit. Mix well. Let it
cool for 20 minutes and then pour into kul
moulds. Freeze overnight and serve.
QPER SERVING 195.25 kcals, protein 4.78g,
0.73g, salt 0g
eat in
in season
eat in
in season
GOOD
FOOD
STAR
RECIPE
Seeds of
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Quinoa and courgette
salad
Give this deliciously tart salad a try. Its
made to impress.

quinoa 75g (try Roland available at
gourmet stores)
courgette 1 large
olive oil 2 tbsp
spring onions 4, nely sliced
cherry tomatoes 100g, halved
red chilli 1, nely chopped
feta 100g, crumbled (try Apertina
parsley a small bunch, chopped
QCook the quinoa following the packet
instructions. Rinse under cold water and
drain. Cut the ends off the courgette
then cut into ribbons using a potato
peeler. Whisk them together with the
vinegar and oil. Season to taste. Put the
rest of the ingredients in a large bowl,
then pour over the dressing and toss
everything together.
carbs 25.9g, fat 23.8g, sat fat 8g, fibre
2g, salt 1.37g
REALLY
REALLY
EASY
change
It looks like a grain but is actually a seed. Give the uber healthy
and versatile quinoa a chance at your next meal
eat in
modern veggie
eat in
modern veggie
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Roasted tomato, halloumi
and quinoa salad
(recipe overleaf)
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Feta and pepper quinoa
balls
This is the perfect veggie substitute for
meatballs. You could even toss them
into a saucy spaghetti and serve it as a
main course.
gourmet stores)
olive oil 2 tbsp
red bell pepper 1 small, nely chopped
pine nuts 2 tbsp
dill 2 handfuls, chopped
mint 1 handful, chopped
breadcrumbs 1/2 cup
veggie mayonnaise 4 tbsp
cucumber 1, halved, deseeded and
sliced
salad leaves 4 large handfuls
QHeat the oven to 220C. Cook the
quinoa following packet instructions
and drain well. Heat oil in a pan and
add the bell pepper and pine nuts.
Cook until the pepper has softened and
the nuts are lightly golden. In a bowl,
mix the quinoa with the zest, a handful
of dill, mint, pepper, nuts, feta and
breadcrumbs. Season well.
QLine a baking sheet with baking
parchment. Using your hands, carefully
shape into balls the size of a walnut
(youll make about 30). Put on the
baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes
or until golden and rm.
QTo make the dressing, whisk the
lemon juice with the mayonnaise and
the other handful of dill and then
season. Toss half the dressing with the
cucumber.
QTo serve, divide the salad and
cucumber between 4 plates. Add
the quinoa balls and drizzle over the
remaining lemon and dill aioli.
fibre 2g, salt 1.4g
Roasted tomato, halloumi
and quinoa salad
This Mediterranean-inspired salad is a
foolproof recipe for all occasions.

tomatoes 4
olive oil 2 1/2 tbsp
red onion 1/2 small, nely sliced
cumin 1 tsp, ground
gourmet stores)
halloumi 250g, sliced (try Lemnos
parsley a handful
pita bread and yoghurt to serve
QHeat the oven to 220C. Put the
tomatoes on a baking tray, drizzle with
1 tbsp olive oil and season. Roast for
25 minutes until the edges are frizzled.
Put the onion, vinegar, 1 1/2 tbsp olive
oil and cumin in a bowl with lots of
seasoning and toss well.
QCook the quinoa following pack
instructions, drain well and then toss with
the onion and dressing. Grill the halloumi
until golden. Toss the parsley and
tomatoes with the quinoa, then top with
slices of halloumi. Serve with pita bread
and yoghurt.
2.4g, salt 4.46g
eat in
modern veggie
eat in
modern veggie
Mushroom and thyme
risotto
Serves 4 Qminutes Q EASY
The addition of quinoa in risotto not
only gives it a healthy twist but also
lends an added textural surprise.

olive oil 1 tbsp
button mushrooms 350g, sliced
gourmet stores)
vegetable stock 1l
arborio rice 175g (try De Cecco
thyme leaves a handful
parmesan a handful, grated
rocket leaves 50g, to serve
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QHeat the oil in a pan, saut the
mushrooms for 2-3 minutes, then stir
in the quinoa. Keeping the vegetable
stock warm in a separate pan on a low
heat, add a ladle of the stock and stir
until absorbed.
QStir in the rice and repeat again with
the stock, until all the stock has been
used up and the rice and quinoa are
tender and cooked. Season to taste.
Stir in the thyme leaves and then divide
between 4 plates. Serve topped with
grated parmesan and rocket leaves.
Pea, feta and quinoa
spring rolls with roasted
tomato nam prik
Makes 12 Q2 hours 40 minutes +
cooling Q A LITTLE EFFORT
This innovative use of quinoa in spring
rolls is a sure to be a hit at parties.
Serve it as part of an Asian tapas
platter with Thai rice crackers and tofu
satay.
gourmet stores)
green peas 200g
mint leaves a small bunch, chopped
spring onions 3, nely chopped
filo pastry 6 sheets (try Jus Rol
oil to baste
sunflower oil 100ml, for frying
THE NAM PRIK
tomatoes 6 large, halved
garlic clove 1, chopped
red chilli 1/2, chopped
ginger 2 tsp, grated
coriander 1/2 bunch, roughly chopped
mint leaves 1/4 bunch, roughly
chopped
lime juice 1 tbsp
tamarind paste 1 tbsp (try Smith &
Jones available at gourmet stores)
palm sugar 1 tsp
QHeat the oven to 160C. To make the
nam prik, place the tomatoes, cut-side
up, on a baking sheet. Drizzle with
1 tbsp olive oil, season with salt and
pepper and roast for 1 1/2 - 2 hours until
semi-dried. Remove from the oven,
cool and then tip into a food processor
with the remaining ingredients and
blitz to a pure.
QCook the quinoa in a pan of
boiling salted water following packet
instructions. Drain and tip into a bowl.
Set aside to cool. Cook the peas for
1 minute in boiling water, then drain and
Fruit and pumpkin
quinoa
pumpkin 1, peeled and diced
onions 2, cut into thin wedges
olive oil 2 tbsp + extra for drizzling
gourmet stores)
yoghurt 4 tbsp
tahini 1 tbsp (try Al Fez available at
gourmet stores)
lemon 1, juiced
almonds 85g, toasted and aked
pistachios 85g, shelled
dried apricots 10, sliced
mint leaves a handful, roughly chopped
QHeat oven to 220C. Toss the
pumpkin and onions with 2 tbsp oil in a
shallow roasting tin. Season and roast
for about 30 minutes, shaking the tin
once or twice, until the vegetables are
tender.
QCook the quinoa following pack
instructions. When cooked, run under
cold water and drain thoroughly.
QStir together the yoghurt, tahini,
most of the lemon juice and some
seasoning to make a sauce. Mix the
quinoa with the nuts, dried apricots,
mint and some seasoning in a large
bowl. Add the remaining lemon juice,
drizzle with a little oil and stir well.
Scatter over the pumpkin-onion mix
and serve with the yoghurt sauce.
eat in
modern veggie
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run under cold water for a few minutes.
Drain thoroughly, tip into a food
processor and pulse to a chunky pure.
Add this to the cooled quinoa along with
the feta, mint, spring onions and lemon
zest and juice. Mix well to combine and
season to taste, adding more lemon
juice if required.
QLay a sheet of lo in front of you,
keeping the remainder covered under
a damp tea towel. Cut the lo in half
across the width to make 2 squares.
With one corner pointing towards you,
spoon 2 tbsp of the lling just below the
centre line and shape into a log. Brush
the pastry edges with oil, then fold in
the 2 side corners. Keeping your ngers
on the corners, bring the bottom corner
up over the lling towards the centre,
then roll up tightly towards the top
corner. Its important to roll as tightly as
possible, so the spring rolls cook evenly.
Repeat with the remaining lo sheets
and lling.
QHeat sunower oil in a large pan and
fry the spring rolls, in batches, for
2-3 minutes or until golden brown. Drain
on kitchen paper. Transfer the spring
rolls to a plate and serve with the nam
prik sauce.
QPER ROLL 166 kcals, protein 5g, carbs
13g, fat 11g, sat fat 2g, fibre 2g, sugar 5g,
salt 0.4g
eat in
modern veggie
For a healthier
alternative, skip
the lo rolls and
serve the salad
with the nam
prik sauce
eat in
weekend
Give your daily bread a gourmet makeover with these haute sandwiches that are anything but predictable
wichcraft
Recipes VICKY RATNANI Photographs PRATEEKSH MEHRA
eat in
weekend
eat in
weekend
With these recipes
I have pushed the
boundaries of
traditional fllings to
create poshed-up
sandwiches. So go
and condiments.
Vicky Ratnani,
Garlicky prawns, sweet
chilli mayo and red
cabbage slaw on a hot
dog bun
Serves 2 Q10 minutes + marinating
Q EASY
My version of the hot dog: the sea dog.
This sandwich was inspired by a similar
salad I had once eaten. A chilled beer
to accompany the garlicky prawns is a
must!
prawns 140g, cleaned and deveined
olive oil 2 tbsp, for sauting
hot dog buns 2
lollo rosso lettuce 20g
Thai sweet chilli sauce 1 tbsp (try Woh
Hup available at gourmet stores)
THE MARINADE
garlic cloves 2, peeled and chopped
basil 3 leaves, chopped
thyme leaves a pinch, chopped
coriander leaves 1 tbsp, chopped
olive oil 1 tbsp
Hip street sandwich
This is the quintessential take on
our street or rasta sandwich its
so simple but packed with so much
character and taste. The marinated
veggies and sharp cheddar add
complexity and make it all the
more flavourful.
white bread 4 large slices
chilli cilantro pesto 1 tbsp
butter 1 tsp
sharp cheddar cheese 30g, grated
chaat masala 1 tsp
black salt a pinch
THE CHILLI CILANTRO PESTO
green chilli 1 + extra to taste
cilantro leaves 1 cup
salt and pepper to taste
ginger 1/2 tsp
peanuts 1 tsp, toasted
lemon juice 1 tsp
cumin powder 1/2 tsp, roasted
THE MARINATED VEGETABLES
oil 1 tbsp
red onion 5 slices
zucchini 4 slices
beetroot 8 slices, boiled
potato 8 slices, boiled
tomato 6-8 slices
cucumber 6 slices
green chilli 1, nely chopped
coriander 1/2 cup
QTo make the pesto, grind all the
ingredients together in a grinder or
in a mortar and pestle for a chunkier
texture. Marinate the thinly sliced
vegetables in the chilli cilantro pesto
and oil. Set aside.
QToast the bread well. Spread the
butter evenly on the slices of toasted
bread. Layer the slices with the
vegetables neatly; pile them up in a
stack. Sprinkle the cheddar cheese and
chaat masala along with some black
salt. Top with the other slice of bread.
Cut into bite-sized pieces and serve.
lemon juice 1 tsp
salt and pepper to taste
sweet chilli mayo 1 tbsp
mayonnaise 1 tbsp
THE SLAW
red cabbage 1/2 cup, shredded
carrots 1/3 cup, shredded
salt and sugar a pinch each
vinegar 1/2 tsp
soy sauce 1/2 tsp
olive oil 1/2 tsp
QMarinate the prawns with the
marinade and leave aside for
45 minutes. To prepare the slaw, mix
all the ingredients together and keep
aside. Saut the prawns in olive oil for
2-3 minutes. Split each hot dog bun
from the top, not totally through but
just to create a little pocket. Lay the
lettuce in the pocket and add the slaw.
Spoon the prawns and drizzle with
sweet chilli sauce.
eat in
weekend
eat in
weekend
Tamarind ginger beef
scaloppini with wasabi
mayo and spring onion
slaw
Q EASY
My kind of Asian-inspired baguette!
To add some spice, you could spike it
with green chillies blended with wasabi
mayo. As an alternative you could use
chicken, fish or tofu.
beef tenderloin steak 100g, batted
thinly
multigrain burger bun 2, cut in half
cucumber 1, sliced
THE ASIAN MARINADE
ginger paste 1/2 tsp
garlic paste 1/2 tsp
soy sauce 1 tsp (try Kikkoman
tamarind pulp 1 tsp
green chilli 1/2, nely chopped
sugar 1/2 tsp
rice vinegar 1 tsp (try Cirio available at
gourmet stores)
oil 1 tsp
orange zest a pinch
THE SLAW
carrots 20g, julienned
radish 20g, julienned
red onion 20g, julienned
spring onions 20g, julienned
coriander 1 tsp, chopped
lemon juice 1/2 tsp
sesame oil 1 tsp
THE SPREAD
wasabi paste 1/2 tsp
milk 1 tbsp
mayonnaise 1 tbsp
QAsk your butcher to bash the
steak for you. To prepare the Asian
marinade, mix all the ingredients
together. Use it to marinate the steak
for 30 minutes. Sear the meat well on
both sides in a hot pan or grill, about
5-10 minutes on each side. Set aside.
QIn the meantime, mix all the
vegetables for the slaw in a bowl.
Focaccia with egg
white frittata, spinach,
asparagus and
mozzarella
Fluffy, light, somewhat healthy and
succulent; you could eat this either
hot or cold at any time of the day.
This is my poshed-up version of an
omelette sandwich with all its delicious
trimmings.
focaccia 2 thick slices
spinach 1 tbsp, blanched and chopped
red bell peppers 1 tbsp, chopped
olives 2-3, chopped
asparagus 1 tbsp, blanched and
chopped
olive oil 1 tbsp
egg whites 3, well-beaten
basil a few leaves, shredded
chives 1 tsp, chopped
mozzarella 3 tbsp
rocket or arugula leaves a handful,
shredded
balsamic vinegar 1/2 tsp
THE SPREAD
mayonnaise 2 tbsp
sundried tomatoes 1 tbsp, pured
capers 2-3
QSlice the focaccia into two. Blend all
the ingredients for the spread. Apply
generously on both sides of the bread.
QIn a non-stick pan, saut the
chopped spinach, bell peppers, olives,
and asparagus in olive oil for
30 seconds. Add in the beaten egg
white and mix well. Season to taste.
Add the basil and chives. When the
bottom is almost set, add the grated
mozzarella and nish the frittata in the
oven for 5-6 minutes.
QTrim the frittata into the shape of
the bread and place on each slice of
focaccia. Toss the arugula with the
balsamic vinegar. Top with arugula and
then place the other piece of bread to
nish the sandwich. Cut into any shape
you like.
29.70g, carbs 118.45g, fat 25.45g, sat
fat 5.50g, fibre 8.55g, salt 3.5g
eat in
weekend
eat in
weekend
Dress with salt, pepper, lemon
juice and sesame oil. To make the
spread, mix the wasabi paste in a
tablespoon of milk. Whisk in the
mayonnaise. Use this to spread the
burger bun.
QLay the cucumber slices on the
burger bun. Place the steak and top
with the crunchy slaw.
3.35g, carbs 26.10g, fat 10g, sat fat
white or brown bread 4 slices, toasted
avocado 2 large, peeled, stoned and
sliced
pickled cucumbers 12 slices
pickled red onion 12-16 slices
kiwifruit 2 medium-sized, peeled and
sliced
blue cheese 30g, crumbled (try
Ballarini available at gourmet stores)
cracked black pepper 1 tsp
THE PICKLE
vinegar 4 tbsp
sugar 2 tsp
salt a pinch
beetroot pure 2 tsp
water 2 tbsp
onion rings 8-10
cucumber 12 slices
THE FIG AND SHALLOT
MARMALADE
dried figs 60g, soaked and chopped in
a cup of water
shallots 4, sliced
sherry vinegar 2 tbsp
sugar 2 tsp
salt to taste
QFor the pickle, lightly warm the
vinegar, sugar, salt, beet puree and
water. Bring the pickling liquid to room
temperature. Add the sliced onion rings
and cucumbers and refrigerate.
QFor the g and shallot marmalade,
cook the gs, shallots, sherry vinegar,
sugar and the water used for soaking
the gs as well. Cook till the shallots
and gs are soft and the mixture is
quite syrupy. Blend and reserve. Add a
pinch of salt. Chill.
QSpread the slices of toasted bread
with the marmalade. Neatly arrange
the sliced avocado and cucumber on
the bread. Then top with the pickled
onions and kiwifruit. Sprinkle the blue
cheese over along with cracked black
pepper.
Chicken parmigiana
ciabatta with rocket and
marinated tomatoes
This has to be my all-time favourite
sandwich. The chicken parmigiana is
a popular entre but in its sandwich
avatar, the rocket leaves and tomatoes
take it to another level.
ciabatta bread 2 thick slices
olive oil 4 tsp
chicken breast 2 pieces, skinless,
boneless and batted thinly
nutmeg a pinch
flour 1 tbsp
tomatoes 2, medium-sized
oregano a pinch
salt and cracked black pepper a pinch
each
red wine vinegar 1 tsp
pesto 3 tbsp (try Sacla available at
gourmet stores)
iceberg lettuce 3-4 leaves, trimmed to
t the bread
THE BATTER
parmesan 1 1/2 tbsp, grated
egg 1
milk 2 tbsp
chives 1 tsp, chopped
parsley 1 tsp, chopped
cream 1 tbsp
olive oil 2 tbsp
QSplit each of the bread slices into
two. Brush with 2 tsp olive oil and toast
or grill.
QIn a non-reactive bowl, whisk all the
ingredients for the batter. Set aside.
Season the chicken with salt, pepper
and nutmeg. Dust in our on both
sides, then immerse it in the batter to
coat evenly. Pan-fry to a golden brown
colour in olive oil, about 5 minutes on
each side. Drain and set aside.
QSlice the tomato into thick slices.
Marinate with 2 tsp olive oil, oregano,
black pepper, salt and red wine vinegar.
QSpread the bread with some pesto,
top with the lettuce, half the sliced
tomatoes, followed by the chicken and
nally the remaining sliced tomatoes.
Top up the bread and serve warm.
Open-faced avocado
with pickled veggies,
kiwi and blue cheese
This is open-faced avant garde! That
may sound pretentious but its actually
approachable and delicious. The kiwi
offers the perfect sweet and tart
contrast to the creamy avocado and
pickled veggies.
eat in
weekend
eat in
weekend
Fancy something sweet that wont take an age to make?
Our easy-peasy puds do the trick
sweet
assembly
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Mango and passion fruit fool
(recipe on p 96)
eat in
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Pears with speedy choc
sauce
pear halves in syrup 2 x 400g cans
chocolate 100g, chopped into small
chunks (try Morde or Valrhona
vanilla ice cream 8 scoops
hazelnuts 2 tbsp, toasted and chopped
QDrain the pears over a small pan.
Divide them between 4 dessert glasses
or bowls. Boil the syrup on a high heat
until reduced and thick. Take off the
heat and stir in the chocolate until
melted.
REALLY
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QAdd 2 scoops of ice cream onto each
portion of pears and pour over the hot
chocolate sauce. Top with the chopped
nuts.
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Sgroppino is a
classic Venetian
dessert-cum-after
dinner cocktail
which is always
creamy, frothy
and boozy.
Mango and passion fruit
fool
Serves 4 Q10 minutes + cooling
QEASY
mangoes 2 large, ripe
passion fruit 4, halved
lime juice 2 tbsp
Greek yoghurt or sweetened hung
curd 300g
QPeel the mangoes and slice the
cheeks off one and cut into small dices.
Set aside.
QCut the esh from the remaining
mango and stone, then pure the esh.
QSqueeze out the seeds from 2 of the
passion fruit halves and mix with the
mango pure. Add lime juice to taste.
Gently fold the yoghurt and half the
diced mango through the fruity pure.
QDivide between 4 glasses and top
with the remaining diced mango. Cover
and chill for 30 minutes before eating.
Scoop the seeds from the remaining
passion fruit over the top of the fools
to serve.
Sgroppino
lemon ice cream 4 scoops
prosecco 4 tbsp
vodka or limoncello 2 tbsp
ice cubes 2 handfuls
egg whites 2, beaten until stiff (optional)
lemon zest strands to garnish
QPut 2 glasses in the freezer to chill. In a
mixer (one that is sturdy enough to cope with
ice) blend all the ingredients to a thick cream.
Fold in the egg whites for extra lightness.
QSpoon or pour the cold glass, scatter with
lemon zest, and serve, topped up with more
prosecco if you like.
carbs 31.2g, fat 9.6g, sat fat 6.4g, fibre none,
salt 0.19g
Rosewater and pistachio
kul with griddled mangoes
Serves 6 Q25 minutes + freezing
QEASY
condensed milk 450g
rosewater 2 tbsp
pistachios 50g + extra to serve, nely
chopped
double cream 284ml
(available at your local dairy)
mangoes 3 small, ripe
QEmpty the contents of the condensed
milk into a bowl and beat in the rosewater
and pistachios. Lightly whip the cream until
it holds its shape, and then fold into the
pistachio mixture.
QPour into 6 small kul moulds. Cover the
kul and freeze. Slice each mango on either
side of the stone to make 6 halves, but dont
peel. Score a criss-cross into the esh, but
dont slice through the skin. (You can do this
several hours ahead.)
QCook on the barbecue, esh-side down
until starting to caramelise. Leave as it is or
turn inside out to make the segments stand
proud. Serve with the kul scattered with the
pistachios and a squeeze of lime, if you like.
QPER SERVING 601 kcals, protein 10g, carbs
60g, fat 38g, sat fat 20g, fibre 3g, sugar 59g,
salt 0.30g
REALLY
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Baked pears with
amaretti
p
pears 4, ripe
ricotta 100g (try Impero available at
gourmet stores)
cinnamon 1/2 tsp
honey 4 tbsp + extra to serve
amaretti biscuits 8 (try Orgran
QCut each pear into half and use a
teaspoon to scoop out the cores and
make a dip in the centre of each half.
(If the pears are rm, you may need
to use a sharp knife.) Dollop about one
heaped teaspoon of ricotta into each dip,
then sprinkle over the cinnamon and
drizzle with a little honey. Place the pears
skin side down on a large baking tray.
QHeat oven to 190C, then roast the
pears for 10 minutes. Tip the biscuits
into a Ziploc bag and use a rolling pin to
lightly crush them. Remove the pears
from the oven, then scatter the crumbs
over each one. Return to the oven for a
further 10 minutes or until the pears are
soft and the biscuit golden brown. Serve
drizzled with honey.
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TASTE TEAM COMMENT
The beauty of this recipe is that
it comes together very quickly.
The flavours were perfect and
the sweetness just right. I would
add a little vanilla essence to the
custard next time as I felt I could
smell and taste the egg yolks
distinctly. I used dried cranberries
and fresh pomegranate
instead of raspberries and they
blended well with the custard.
This is a showstopper after
any meal, simple or elaborate.
Rituparna Mukerji is a food
blogger from Delhi and blogs at
chocolatesanddreams.in.
White chocolate and
raspberry pots
Serves 8 Q30 minutes + chilling
QMODERATELY EASY
double cream 284ml (available at your
local dairy)
milk 150ml
white chocolate 450g, chopped
eggs yolks 6
frozen raspberries 150g, defrosted (try
Delishh available at gourmet stores)
QHeat the cream and milk together.
Put the chocolate in a bowl and pour
over the cream mixture. Stir until the
chocolate is melted and then stir in the
egg yolks.
QPour back into the clean saucepan
and stir over a low heat, stirring all the
time until the mixture thickens enough
to lightly coat the back of a wooden
spoon (dont boil or youll scramble the
eggs), then strain into a jug.
QDivide the raspberries between eight
small glasses. Divide the chocolate
mixture between them, cover the
glasses with cling-lm and chill
overnight or until set. They should be
just rm but not solid.
QPER SERVING 543kcals, protein 8.6g,
carbs 35.2g, fat 41.9g, sat fat 22.6g,
BBC GoodFood APRIL 2013
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Spiced glazed
pineapple with
cinnamon whipped
cream
lime 1, juiced and zested
honey 2 tbsp
ground cinnamon 2 pinches
whole nutmeg a few gratings
icing sugar 2 tsp, sifted (try
Bluebird available at gourmet
stores)
whipped cream 200g
butter 2 tsp
pineapple 1, cut into 8
long wedges, skin and core
removed
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You could also
serve the pineapple
with a mix of cream
cheese and sweet,
cinnamon-avoured
yoghurt.
QMix the lime juice and half the lime
zest with 1 tbsp honey, a pinch of
cinnamon and some nutmeg. Set this
sauce aside. Stir the icing sugar and a
pinch of cinnamon into the whipped
cream.
QHeat the butter and remaining
honey in a non-stick frying pan until
melted. Add the pineapple and cook
over a high heat for 8 minutes, turning
regularly until caramelised. Pour in the
spiced lime sauce and bubble for a few
seconds, tossing the pineapple to glaze
in the sauce.
QServe immediately, sprinkled
with the remaining lime zest and
accompanied by a dollop of the
cinnamon whipped cream.
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Just 5
ingredients
2
Curry-crusted sh
Serves 4Q15 minutes QEASY
QHeat the oven to 200C. Whizz
3 slices of bread in a food processor
until you have rough crumbs. Add
1 tbsp curry paste and whizz again
until the crumbs are fairly ne and
evenly coated in the curry paste. Put
4 white fish fillets (basa or sea bass)
onto a baking sheet, season with salt
and pepper, then grate the zest of half
a lime on top. Gently press the curry
paste crumbs on top of the sh, then
bake until the sh is cooked through
and the topping is golden, about 7
minutes. Serve immediately.
3
Rice noodles with
sundried tomatoes,
parmesan and basil
Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE
QBoil 250g rice noodles according
to pack instructions, then drain. Heat
2 tbsp oil, then fry 85g chopped
sundried tomatoes and 3 chopped
garlic cloves for 3 minutes. Toss the
noodles with 25g parmesan shavings
and a large handful of torn basil
leaves. Season to taste. Scatter over
some more cheese, basil leaves and
serve.
4
Salmon and ginger
sh cakes
Recipe LIZZIE HARRIS
QHeat the oven to 200C. Toss 1 large,
peeled,sliced potato in a roasting tin
with 1 tsp olive oil, salt and pepper
to taste and bake for 20 minutes.
Chop 275g skinless salmon fillets
and place in a bowl with 2 tsp grated
ginger and seasoning. You could even r
use aked tuna from a can instead of
the salmon. Heat 1 tsp oil in a non-
stick pan and soften 1/2 a bunch of
chopped spring onions for 2 minutes. Stir
into the salmon, mix well and shape into
4 patties. Heat 2 tbsp oil in the pan and
cook the patties for 3-4 minutes on each
side until golden. Cover with a lid and
leave to rest. Serve 2 patties each with the
chips and wasabi mayonnaise if you like.
5
Crunchy cauliower
cheese
QHeat the grill to high. Bring a large pan
of salted water to the boil. Break
1 large cauliflower into orets, drop into r
the pan and boil for about 7 minutes, or
until tender. Heat 350g cheese sauce
in a pan. Mix 100g emmental cheese,
25g toasted, crushed hazelnuts and
50g fresh breadcrumbs in a bowl.
Drain the cauliower and place in the
bottom of a shallow baking dish. Pour the
warmed sauce over, then sprinkle with
the breadcrumb mixture. Put under the
grill for 5 minutes, or until the cheese is
bubbling and the breadcrumbs are crusty.
6
Thai coconut chicken
QIn a shallow pan, stir-fry 2 tbsp Thai
curry paste in 100ml coconut milk until
fragrant. Add 300ml more coconut milk
and bring to a simmer. Add 2 chopped,
skinless chicken breasts, 100g green
beans and simmer for 5 minutes. Add
100g cherry tomatoes and simmer for
another 3 minutes. Season to taste and
serve with steamed rice.
Asian prawn omelette
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7
Mozzarella and
salami ciabatta
Recipe LIZZIE HARRIS
QCut 1 small ciabatta bread into
4 pieces and toast. Toss 1 sliced fennel
bulb with 2 tsp olive oil and a few
rocket leaves. Tear 75g mozzarella
and 8 salami slices over the ciabatta,
pile on the salad. Sprinkle over some
salt and coarsely ground pepper to r
taste. Serve with some lemon wedges
for squeezing over.
8
Steamed sh with
lemon, ginger and
chilli
QPut 100g trimmed pok choy leaves
in the bottom of 2 small steamer trays.
Sit 250g basa fish fillets on top,
season and top with some lemon slices,
1 sliced red chilli and 1 tbsp shredded
ginger. Season to taste. Cover with a
tight-tting lid and sit over a pan of
boiling water. Steam for 8-10 minutes
until the sh is opaque and cooked.
Heat 1 tbsp rice vinegar and r 2 tbsp
hoisin sauce in a small pan. Pour into a
small bowl and serve with the sh.
9
Minestrone in
minutes
QBring 1l hot vegetable stock to the
boil with 400g chopped tomatoes.
Then add 100g spaghetti and cook
for 6 minutes or until done. A few
minutes before the pasta is ready, add
350g chopped mixed vegetables
(carrots, beans, broccoli, mushrooms)
and bring back to the boil. Season to
taste and simmer for 2 minutes until
everything is cooked. Serve drizzled
with 4 tbsp pesto and 1 tbsp olive oil,
sprinkled with grated parmesan.
10
Pesto and
parmesan spaghetti
QBoil 500g spaghetti in a large
pan according to packet instructions.
Drain well, then return to the pan
with 2-3 tbsp pesto and 25g shaved
parmesan. Season to taste, toss well
and tip into a serving bowl. Sprinkle
with some more parmesan and serve
immediately.
11
Smoked salmon with
Asian dressing
QMake the dressing by mixing 1 tbsp
golden caster sugar with 1/2 chopped
red chilli, the zest of 1 lime, 2 tbsp
lime juice, 1/2 tbsp sesame oil and
1 tbsp light soy sauce. Arrange 200g
smoked salmon on 4 plates. Toss
1 peeled, diced avocado, 1/2 a diced,
deseeded cucumber and a handful of
coriander, then pile on top. Spoon over
the dressing and serve immediately.
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12
Lemon curd and
yoghurt fool
QPut 300g lemon curd and 500g
Greek yoghurt into a bowl. Fold
together for a rippled effect. Divide the
mixture between 4 glasses and chill.
Mix 200g frozen raspberries and
1 tbsp icing sugar together and gently
crush with a fork. Spoon them, with
their juices over the chilled mix and
serve with shortbread.
Under 10 mins
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Quick chicken
chasseur
QHeat a shallow saucepan and
sizzle 10 chopped, streaky bacon
rashers for 2 minutes until starting to
brown. Add 6 diced chicken breasts,
then fry for 3-4 minutes until it has
changed colour. Turn up the heat and
throw in 400g quartered button
mushrooms. Cook for a few minutes,
stir in 2 tbsp plain flour and cook until r
a paste forms. Tip in 600g chopped
tomatoes, stir, then crumble in 2 beef
stock cubes. Season to taste. Bubble
everything for 10 minutes, splash in a
dash of Worcestershire sauce, stir
through some chopped parsley and y
serve with potato mash or boiled rice.
14
Spaghetti with
crab, cherry
tomatoes and basil
QBoil 400g spaghetti in a pan
of salted water following pack
instructions, then drain. In the
meantime, heat 2 tbsp extra virgin
olive oil in a frying pan. Add 4 chopped
garlic cloves and a pinch of chilli
flakes. Cook until pale golden, then add
400g halved cherry tomatoes. Cook
for 3 minutes more on a high heat
until the tomatoes start to break down
a little. Add 2 tbsp lemon juice and
cook for 1-2 minutes. Remove from the
heat and stir in 700g white crab meat
from a tin to warm through. Mix the
pasta in the warm pot with the sauce,
2tsp lemon zest and 3 tsp capers,
and toss a handful of chopped basil
through. Serve immediately.
15
Spanish pepper
and potato tortilla
QBoil 600g sliced baby potatoes
until just tender, about 4-5 minutes.
Cook 3red onions, cut into wedges,
and 3 sliced red peppers in a deep
frying pan in 3 tbsp olive oil until
softened. Add the potatoes and cook
for a minute. Season well, pour in
10 beaten eggs and stir in a handful of
shredded basil. Cook until set on the
bottom, then nish under a hot grill.
Cut into wedges and serve with a salad.
16
Sausage and red
cabbage one-pot
Recipe LULU GRIMES
QHeat a frying pan over a medium heat
and add24 small sausages and 6 tbsp
oil. Fry briey until browned all over and
then push them to one side. Add400g
shredded red cabbageto the other side e
and turn it over. Add3 tbsp red wine
vinegar and r 6 tsp light muscovado
sugar to the cabbage and season well, r
put on a lid for 5 minutes. Take the
lid off, turn the sausages and stir the
cabbage around. Serve with
3 tbsp mascarpone to stir through.
17
Prawn and spinach
ramen noodles
Recipe LULU GRIMES
QCook 750g egg noodles following
the pack instructions. Drain and divide
between 2 bowls. Boil 1.5l chicken
stock, add 18 sliced ginger slices and
6 finely sliced spring onions, cook for
2 minutes then stir in 300g shredded
spinach and cook for 2 minutes. Add
600g peeled, cooked prawns. Season
to taste. Spoon over the noodles and
add a dash of chilli oil and soy sauce.
18
Omelette Arnold
Bennett
Recipe LULU GRIMES
QPut 600g smoked salmon or
mackerel and 750ml milk in a pan and k
bring to a simmer. Lift it out and ake
it, draining any milk back into the pan.
Pour the milk into a jug. Melt 3 tbsp
butter in the pan and stir in r 6 tbsp
flour, whisk in the poaching milk and
bubble until the sauce thickens. Stir
in the sh and 3 tbsp parsley. Melt a
little more butter in a large non-stick
pan and add 12 beaten and seasoned
eggs, leave to set a little
and then draw in the sides
of the omelette. Cook
until the top is almost
set then spoon over the
salmon/mackerel mixture.
Grill until the top browns.
Serve with a green salad.
Feed a crowd
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19
Smoky tomato soup
Serves 6 Q30 minutes
QEASY
QCook 2 chopped onions, 1 grated
carrot, 2 chopped celery sticks and
2 crushed garlic cloves in 2 tbsp
olive oil, until softened. Add 2 tsp
smoked paprika and cook for a minute.
Add 800g chopped tomatoes, 2 tbsp
tomato pure and 600ml vegetable
stock. Season to taste and simmer for
15 minutes. Whizz in a blender. Add
4 tbsp double cream and whizz again.
Serve with an extra swirl of cream and
some chopped chives. Serve with
cheese toasties.
20
Griddled halloumi
with spiced
couscous
QMix 175g couscous with 1/2 tsp
each of ground cinnamon, cumin
and coriander in a bowl, pour over r
300ml hot vegetable stock, then
cover and leave to stand for 5 minutes.
Heat a non-stick frying pan. Cut 250g
halloumi into 6-8 slices and cook on
each side for 2 minutes until brown.
Mix 200g chopped and blanched
broccoli and a handful of cherry
tomatoes into couscous, fork in
1 tsp lemon juice, 1 tbsp olive oil and
some chopped coriander. Season to
taste. Pile onto plates and top with the
griddled halloumi.
21
Gnocchi with lemon
and chive pesto
QPut 1 chopped garlic clove, a bunch
each of chopped parsley and chives,
2 tbsp toasted, pine nuts, 2 tbsp
grated parmesan and some lemon
zest in a bowl, season well, then stir
in 4 tbsp olive oil and 1 tbsp lemon
juice. Boil 500g gnocchi in a pan of
salted boiling water, then drain well. Tip
into a serving bowl and toss through
the pesto. Serve with some grated
parmesan.
22
Pappardelle with
lemon and sage
mushrooms
QCook 150g pappardelle pasta
following packet instructions. Soften
250g sliced button mushrooms
in 25g butter, add 1 crushed garlic
clove, cook for a few minutes then
stir in a handful of sage leaves and
2 tbsp lemon juice. Drain the pasta,
reserving 1 tbsp of cooking liquid, then
toss everything together and season
to taste.
23
Spiced sweet
potato salad with
crisp noodles
Serves Qminutes QEASY
Recipe SARAH COOK
QHeat oven to 200C. Toss 2 chunked
sweet potatoes with 1 tsp cumin,
1 tsp oil and some seasoning. Spread
over a baking tray, then roast for
20-25 minutes until tender. Meanwhile,
cook 25g noodles according to pack
instructions, then drain. Heat 1cm oil in
a wok until a piece of noodle dropped
in begins to sizzle immediately. Fry the
noodles in batches until crisp. Remove
with a slotted spoon, then drain well
on kitchen paper. When the potatoes
are ready, whisk together 1 tsp oil with
3 tsp orange zest and 50ml orange
juice, 2 tsp red wine vinegar and a r
little seasoning. Tip the potatoes into a
bowl with 2 handfuls spinach, 1 sliced
avocado and 1/2 sliced red onion.
Drizzle with the dressing and gently
mix. Divide between 2 plates and
crumble over the crispy noodles.
24
Red rice salad
with feta and
pine nuts
QBoil 150g red rice until al dente,
drain and rinse in cold water. Tip into
a bowl and toss with 1 tbsp red wine
vinegar, 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
and seasoning. Add 50g cubed feta,
1 tbsp toasted pine nuts, 2 shredded
carrots, 1/2 a sliced red onion, and a
bunch of chopped parsley. Toss again
and spoon into bowls.
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Spp Spic ic iced ed d ssswe weeet e pppppotato salad with crisp noodles
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013 BBC GoodFood 105

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25
Garlicky bean
salad with chorizo
Leftover: Chorizo from a 350g pack
QRinse and drain 400g cannellini
beans, then pat dry with kitchen paper.
Mix 1 small, sliced red onion with
2 tbsp red wine vinegar and leave
for 5 minutes to soak. Mix 140g
sliced button mushrooms, 1 tbsp
finely chopped garlic and c a handful
of parsleyinto the beans, then add y
the onions and vinegar, 3 tbsp olive
oil and seasoning. Mix well. Arrange
overlapping slices of 100g chorizo on o
2 plates and spoon the salad in the
centre. Serve with crusty bread.
26
Spicy chicken rice
QEASY
Leftover: Boiled rice
QChop 200g cooked spicy chicken
fillets into bite-size pieces and mix with
250g boiled rice, 50g chopped and
deseeded cucumber and r 2 coarsely
grated carrots. Mix 10g mint leaves
with 150ml yoghurt, 1 tsp honey, a
pinch of chilli powder and seasoning. r
Stir into the rice and sprinkle with
some more mint.
27
Spinach tortilla
wedges
Leftover: Eggs
QCook 1 sliced onion in 1 tbsp olive oil
until soft. Add 100g chopped spinach
and cook until wilted. Boil 1 large sliced
potato in salted water until tender.
Drain well. Whisk 4 eggs and season
well, then stir in the potato, spinach
and eggs. Heat a non-stick frying pan
with 1 tsp oil. Tip in the egg mix and
cook until set. Tip onto a plate then ip
the uncooked side down. Cook until just
set. Cool and cut into wedges.
28
Spicy egg wraps
QEASY
Leftover: Chapatti
QMix 1 shredded lettuce leaf,
2 chopped and deseeded tomatoes,
some chopped and deseeded
cucumber, a bunch of chopped
coriander, and a pinch of chilli
powder in a bowl. Put a chapatti in a
non-stick frying pan over moderate
heat until toasted on the underside.
Meanwhile, beat 1 egg with a pinch
of chilli powder, salt and pepper.
Turn the chapatti over and pour the
egg over the surface, spreading it
to the edges. When the egg has set
around the edges, ip it over and cook
the egg. Invert onto a serving plate.
Spread half the salad down the centre
of the chapatti and drizzle with some
yoghurt. Roll it up and serve. Make a
second wrap in the same way.
29
Beef and
coriander noodle
soup
Recipe LULU GRIMES
Leftover: Grilled steak
QCook 140g dried wheat noodles
following pack instructions. In the
meantime, heat 700ml beef stock,
then add 2 tbsp grated ginger,
1 finely sliced hot red chilli, 3 tbsp
soy sauce, 2 tbsp rice or white wine
vinegar, 2 finely sliced spring onions
and pepper. When boiling, add 1 thinly
sliced sirloin steak (fat removed) and
cook for 10 minutes. Add the noodles
and some chopped coriander. Divide
between 2 bowls and serve
30
Baked camembert
with garlic toasts
Recipe LULU GRIMES
Leftover: Camembert and baguette
QTo make the toasts, toast 8 slices
of baguette bread on both sides then
rub with 1 crushed garlic clove and
drizzle with some olive oil. Cut in half
lengthways. Heat the oven to 200C.
Put 500g camembert cheese in a
snug ovenproof dish. Slash the tops
a few times with a sharp knife, drizzle
with 2 tbsp dry white wine and
sprinkle over 2 tbsp thyme. Cover
with foil and bake for 10 minutes.
Drizzle with 2 tbsp honey and serve. y
Use up leftovers
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eat out
Pizzerias reviewed, plus Pesto Pesto's Seafood Broth to try at home
IN THIS ISSUE
7 Pizzerias on trial, p 110
7 Pro vs Punter at Mumbai's Mi Maratha, p 118
7 Off the eaten track at Mumbai's Hotel Deluxe, p 120
7 Pesto Pesto's Seafood Broth, p 123
Pizzeria Rossa's
Marinara pizza, p 114
eat out
restaurant spy
Pizzerias
Say huzzah for pizza, the new culinary star of the eat-out world.
We size up six hotspots that serve a mean pie
On trial
HOW WE DID IT Although our initiation to these beloved pies came by way of delivery chains, pizzas are
currently getting a haute makeover, becoming something of a gourmet art form. There is a wider choice of crusts and
a greater variety of exotic toppings available to the pizza end now than ever before. Our selection includes standalone
pizzerias and restaurants with a substantial variety of pizzas on their menus. From upmarket pizzerias that specialise in a
particular kind of pizza to the casual hangout next door, this list takes into consideration a wide range of tastes and budgets.
Wood-fired pizza at Pizza Metro Pizza
eat out
restaurant spy
eat out
restaurant spy
If you were to judge London-based
restaurant Pizza Metro Pizzas rst
Mumbai outpost by its faade alone,
you could quite easily mistake it for
a ubiquitous pizza delivery chain.
Theres little about the dull exterior
and cartoony signage that catches
your eye, especially against the busy
backdrop of Ambedkar Road in
Bandra. But once inside, its hard not
to be charmed by the rustic dcor,
marked by copper utensils hanging on
the walls, a cheery mural of an Italian
market scene that occupies an entire
wall and the enormous mosaic-tiled
wood-red oven that is the centrepiece
of the open kitchen. Complimented
by the warm and friendly service, the
restaurant has the perfect vibe for a
relaxed, informal meal. For pie haters,
theres a sizable selection of salads,
antipasti, pastas and meat-heavy
mains. But it would be a mistake
to pass on the pizza, with nearly 25
varieties available on the menu.
QTHE PIZZAS
A cursory glance at the menu reveals
that it leans overwhelmingly in favour
of pork and beef-based toppings so
if you are a chicken end, you are
likely to be sorely disappointed. Pizza
Metro Pizza specialises in hand-rolled
Neapolitan or Naples-style pizzas
marked by a thick, raised outer crust
and a thin centre. While Neapolitan
pies are generally pliant enough to
be folded, we nd that hot-of-the-
oven, Pizza Metro Pizzas pies are too
fragile at the centre to bear the weight
of their toppings. It is easiest to eat
them with fork and knife, which in
our opinion defeats the purpose of
pizza. We order a trio of pizzas and
since we are expecting round, 12-inch
pizzas, we are a trie overwhelmed
when they come to our table as part
of one long rectangular pie with 12
slices. The Diavola pizza topped
with avourful discs of salty salami,
mushrooms, basil and mozzarella,
benets from the incredible freshness
of the tart tomato sauce but is
unevenly seasoned. My slice is strewn
with a few too many chilli akes. In
theory, the Cicciobomba pizza sounds
like a meat fest with toppings of ham,
salami, beef meatballs and sausages,
apart from mushrooms, black olives
and mozzarella. The meatballs are
tender and crumbly, and the pizza is
uplifted by the excellent quality of the
salami. But we feel that a little more
PIZZA METRO
PIZZA,
Mumbai
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generosity with the meaty toppings
would pack in a lot more avour. Of
the three, the vegetarian Portobello
pizza without tomato sauce, topped
with mixed mushrooms, rocket and a
fat layer of grana padano cheese is the
most assertive in avour, with trufe
oil lending its distinct aroma to this
decidedly grown-up combination of
toppings.
QBESTSELLERS
Cicciobomba, Diavola, Proscuitto e
Funghi
QPROVENANCE
Most of the ingredients, including the
our, tomatoes, olives, olive oil and
meats, are imported from Italy. A local
cheese vendor who has had extensive
training in cheese making from
Italy supplies the cheeses. The other
vegetables are procured locally.
QWHAT TO DRINK
A small selection of Italian wines is on
ofer in addition to Kingsher beer, a
few whiskies, single malts and liqueurs.
If you are visiting solely for the pizza,
a no-fuss fresh lime soda might make
the best accompaniment.
QINSIDER TIP
The restaurants signature metre and
half metre-long pizzas are a fun, if
slightly gimmicky way to sample a
variety of avours especially if you
are in a large group. Each metre-long
pizza can include four diferent avour
combinations in other words, its
four pizzas in one.
QDETAILS
Jharna Apartments, Ambedkar Road,
Bandra (W), Mumbai. Tel: +91 22
65993334. Timings: Tuesday-Sunday
12 pm 3 pm, 6 pm 11.30 pm.
Pizzas ` 595 onwards; desserts ` 395
onwards.

Quality: 7/10
Choice: 8/10
Provenance: 6/10
Atmosphere: 8/10
Value: 6.5/10
Total: 35.5/50
Vidya Balachander
Clockwise from
below: The classic
Margherita at
Pizza Metro
Pizza; Diavola
pizza at Di Napoli;
Veggie pizza at
Di Napoli topped
with capsicum,
sauteed
mushrooms, San
Marzano tomato
sauce, fresh
basil, parmesan
and stringy
mozzarella
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B
H
A
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eat out
restaurant spy
Unlike its frail and thin-crusted
counterparts, the hearty Neapolitan
pizza is not to be taken lightly. Like
wine and cheese, it comes with its own
guidelines for ingredient provenance
and baking methods specied by the
Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana.
Mumbais Di Napoli might not be
a certied pizzeria but attempts to
take these guidelines seriously. The
Neapolitan pies are among the best
weve ever eaten in the city lightly
charred bases, sparingly topped and
easily foldable. Owner Jai Thakur has
an evangelical air about him as he
waxes eloquent about the imported
ingredients and the Italian-made, three
tonne, dome-shaped oven that is used
to make the pizzas. In contrast to the
rustic pizzas though, the restaurant has
puzzlingly stark red and grey interiors
reminiscent of a pizza chain.
QTHE PIZZAS
We are told that the pizzas take less
than two minutes to make but thats
a more realistic estimate of the time
taken to devour the Diavola. The still
bubbling and almost soupy centre
of lightly seasoned San Marzano
tomatoes, fat-speckled pepperoni, just
melted fresh mozzarella, parmesan
and basil on a slightly charred and
bloated rim is perfection. The pizza
without tomato sauce, Funghi with
White Trufe Oil, comes highly
recommended but is a bit of a let
down after the Diavola. The intense
earthiness of the shiitake mushroom
overpowers the subtlety of the trufe
oil. Sparingly topped with fresh
mozzarella, parmesan and arugula,
this pizza would fare better with more
porcini. Perhaps the Funghi pizza
led us to it, but we commit culinary
blasphemy of sorts with our next
order. Their signature Fried then
Baked Pizza Margherita is so wrong,
its surprisingly good. The centre isnt
as soupy as a baked Neapolitan pie
but the avours are all there slightly
tart tomatoes drizzled with extra virgin
olive oil, stringy bits of melted, fresh
mozzarella di bufala and roughly torn
basil leaves. If a charred crust isnt
for you, this pie with its fried bread
base will hit the spot. The dessert
menu (minus the standard issue
Tiramisu) reads like a dream with
Pizza Alla Nutella as one of the central
attractions. But only order it if you can
stomach an entire 12-inch chocolate
binge. The pizzas rim and base is
stufed with Nutella, which when
baked is a gooey but delicious mess
of hazelnut, chocolate and toasted
almond excess.
QBESTSELLERS
Diavola, Salame Piccante, Funghi with
White Trufe Oil, Pizza Alla Nutella
QPROVENANCE
Barring a few herbs and poultry,
almost every ingredient is imported
from Italy. The plum San Marzano
tomatoes, olive oil and even the 00
standard Italian our, whose gluten
content contributes to the crusts pufy
rim, are imported.
QWHAT TO DRINK
The wine selection leans in favour of
new-world wines from South Africa,
Argentina, Chile and India rather
than Italian. The non-alcoholic drinks
include coolers, smoothies and fresh
juices. Our pleasantly tart Lemongrass
Sling trumps the packaged guava juice
in our Spiced Guava cooler.
QINSIDER TIP
If you would like to get a feel for how
your pizza is made, pop over to the
show kitchen after youve placed your
order. Hang around for a minute after
the pizzaiolo slides the pie into the
oven and swoop in just when its time
to elevate the pizza to the ceiling of the
oven, which gives the pie its distinct
char.
QDETAILS
Dalamal Towers, Free Press Journal
Marg, near MLA Hostel, behind
Mittal Towers, Nariman Point,
Mumbai. Tel: +91 22 43473200.
Timings: Daily 11 am 11 pm.
Pizzas ` 365 onwards, desserts ` 110
onwards.
Quality: 9/10
Atmosphere: 7/10
Provenance: 7/10
Choice: 9/10
Value: 8/10
Total: 40/50
Kainaz Contractor
7
DI NAPOLI,
Mumbai
Pizzeria Rossa attempts to ll the gap
between pocket-friendly multinational
pizza chains and upmarket Italian
restaurants in the capital. It aims to
provide authentic pies at afordable
prices in a casual setting. Priding itself
on serving genuine fare, this cosy
pizzeria in the buzzing Hauz Khas
Village boasts an Italian wood-red
oven. The 25 pizza options include
predictable favourites like marinara,
margherita and quattro formaggio
along with some unusual combinations
such as Chicken, Cranberry and Brie;
French Fries; Chorizo and Boursin and
Sweet Corn Salad Pizzas.
The informal ambience is
reminiscent of a tavern with wooden
furniture, with the monotony of brown
broken by an olive green chair at every
table. The customised lights are made
of wine bottles. In terms of dcor and
food, Pizzeria Rossa strikes the perfect
balance between casual comfort and
gourmet elegance.
QBESTSELLERS
Provencal, Rossa Special French Fries
Pizza, Chorizo and Boursin
QTHE PIZZAS
Specialising in the Roman-style thin
crust, Pizzeria Rossa ofers it in regular
as well as whole-wheat options. The
latter tastes fantastic so the health
conscious will not feel like theyre
compromising on taste. We start of
with the Rosso Special French Fries
Pizza. As the name suggests, this is
a double cheese mozzarella pizza
topped with French fries. Although
it sounds sinful, it is just as popular
with grown ups as it is with kids. Next
comes the Piri Piri Chicken Pizza on
a whole-wheat base. Succulent pieces
of chicken are marinated in a spicy,
homemade piri piri sauce. The spicy
mayo drizzled on the pizza makes
it even hotter, yet it is lip-smacking
good. The Capricciosa is packed with
avour.With generous toppings of
good quality salami, pepperoni and
prosciutto and sprinkled with black
olives, it hits the spot for pork lovers.
The other pizzas with pork toppings
are also well executed and avourful.
The Chorizo and Boursin pizza is a
textural delight punctuated by chunks
of savoury chorizo and cool, smooth
blobs of the French Boursin cheese.
If you are not a pork lover, the Prawn
and Rocket pizza is an unconventional
choice, with the rocket leaves adding a
unique twist of peppery avour.
QPROVENANCE
The homemade tomato sauce is made
with canned Italian tomatoes along
with Indian tomatoes. All the cold cuts
and cheeses are imported but procured
locally.
QWHAT TO DRINK
Wash down the pizzas with wholesome
shakes or any of the modest selection of
beers. The pizzeria also has an extensive
wine and whiskey list and a selection of
cocktails.
QINSIDER TIP
Although its not on the menu yet, try
the Breakfast Pizza. Available through
the day, it comes with generous
toppings of sausage, bacon and egg.
You can also have pizzas from Pizzeria
Rosso home delivered thanks to Rosso
ASAP, the delivery service that is all set
to start this month.
QDETAILS
Pizzeria Rossa, 26 Hauz Khas Village,
New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 40587275.
Timings: Daily 12 pm - 1 am. Pizzas
` 375 onwards; desserts ` 245 onwards.
Quality: 8/10
Choice: 8/10
Provenance: 7/10
Atmosphere: 7/10
Value: 8.5/10
Total: 38.5/50
Shibani Bawa
PIZZERIA
ROSSA,
NEW DELHI
7
Clockwise from
top: Pizzeria
Rossas
Marinara
pizza; the al
fresco seating
at Mamas
Pizzeria; the
Pepperoni pizza
is one of the
bestsellers
at Mamas
Pizzeria; Mama
Pizzerias New
Yorker pizza
eat out
restaurant spy
Tucked away in a leafy lane in
Indiranagar, at an arms distance
from the busy main road and yet
quite removed from the noise,
Mamas Pizzeria is one of those cosy,
unpretentious eateries that are ideal
for an unfussy meal or an evening
cofee with friends. There are no frills
and the pizzeria has all of four tables.
One wall has glossy, blown up images
of cheese and ice cream, while the
other is full of groupings of framed
colour photographs of Italy, including
one of the iconic Vespa. A oor-to-
ceiling white cupboard has a few
pithy lines about the pizza. Service is
friendly but a bit on the slower side.
Then again, the place is comfortable
enough, so it does not hurt to
chitchat and take it easy till the food
arrives. Theres also soothing white
noise a music score or a local FM
station to keep you company.
The menu is not extensive. There
is a choice of ve vegetarian and four
non-vegetarian pizzas in two sizes; all
the pizzas have a thin crust. However,
theres a fairly long list of toppings
that can be added on. Theres
also a selection of sandwiches,
subs, salads and pastas. Of these
the Mediterranean Feta Salad
is incredibly fresh. The lettuce is
crunchy, the cheese pleasantly robust
and the vegetables are an absolute
delight. The Pasta Arabiatta is a
crowd pleaser but the chicken breast
and cheese sandwich is a bit stodgy.
QTHE PIZZAS
All three pizzas we order do justice to
the pizzerias speciality, the thin crust,
which is uniformly crisp. They come
to the table with the cheese still gently
bubbling. The Classic Margherita is
simple and wholesome with the sauce
providing that all-important kick
when it lands on the palate. There
is just the right amount of shredded
basil strips we prefer our basil leaves
7
MAMAS
PIZZERIA,
Bengaluru
whole, but the strips pass muster
by being quite fresh. In contrast,
the Classic Veggie with toppings
of mushrooms, white onions, bell
peppers, black olives and jalapeos is
a colourful mlange of avours and
textures. The toppings combine very
well with the sauce, which the menu
says is a secret. The third pizza,
Mamas Fully Loaded, justies the
name and is a meat lovers delight. It
comes packed with pepperoni, sliced
ham, sausages, sliced onion rings
and mozzarella. It is full of complex
textures, but could do with a bit
more avour. Generous shakes from
the plump bottles of chilli akes and
oregano on the table are required to
adequately bridge the gap.
QBESTSELLERS
Classic Veggie, Mamas Fully Loaded,
BBQ Chicken
QPROVENANCE
Most of the ingredients are sourced
locally except for a few like feta
cheese, chorizo, parma ham, pork
sausages etc, which are imported.
QWHAT TO DRINK
There isnt much by way of variety,
with only aerated beverages and
juices to pair with the pizzas. If you
are not a fan or either of these, then
go with water. Cofee and tea are also
available.
QINSIDER TIP
Almost every pizza on the menu
comes in a take-n-bake version. It
comes fully assembled and all you
need to do is to bake it at home.
QDETAILS
Mamas Pizzeria, 2041, 17th Main,
1st Cross, HAL Second Stage,
Indiranagar, Bengaluru. Tel: +91 80
25200067. Timings: Daily 11 am -
9.30 pm. Pizzas ` 100 onwards.
Quality: 6/10
Choice: 5/10
Provenance: 6/10
Atmophere: 5/10
Value: 8.5/10
Total: 30.5/50
Anita Rao-Kashi
It has been around for years, but
Amici, with branches in Defence
Colony, Vasant Kunj, Hauz Khas and
Saket, continues to stand tall for the
authenticity of its super fresh, thin
crust pizzas. The original Khan Market
branch is lled to capacity even on
a wet Sunday afternoon. We are
quickly gathered into the warm spill
of intimate bonhomie spread over two
spacious oors. A longish, two-tiered
counter features jars of cookies and
confectionery; pictures hang on the
walls and from the open kitchen wafts
the fragrance of pizzas in the oven. The
smiling waiter promptly presents us
with the menu, which features over 40
types of pizza, apart from an elaborate
choice of pastas, panini sandwiches,
soups and starters.
QTHE PIZZAS
All of Amicis pizzas are to be eaten
hot of the oven, within ve to seven
minutes, or they begin wilting under
the weight of their toppings. So we
quickly tuck into our spicy Guapos
Mexican pizza, which is considerably
hotter than our initial choice of
Capricciosa, which is topped with
Italian ham, artichokes, black olives,
tomatoes, cheese and jalapeos.
Guapos Mexican Pizza is crisp
and chewy, topped with jalapeo,
mozzarella, tomato and onion and
liberally doused with Mexican spices.
The onions are a bit over the top for
our taste. The Farmers Favourite
Veggie pizza comes mounted with
a slew of farm fresh vegetables,
including baby corn, green capsicum,
mushrooms, black olives, sliced onions
and jalapenos. While the traditional
Neapolitan pizza is thicker along
the outer rim and thin in the centre,
the signature, wood-red Amici
Margherita is evenly hand-rolled with
a thin crust. Crisp, avourful and
boasting the perfect combination of
cheese and tomato, this one hits the
bulls eye. Amici also ofers many spins
on the pizza including the Roman-
style crust, which is extremely thin
and crispy, and not too popular; newly
introduced hand-tossed pizzas with
rustic avours and whole wheat pizzas
with added nutrients such as cracked
and roasted oats. A gluten-free pizza is
also in the works.
QBESTSELLERS
Farmers Favourite Veggie, Blue
Mushroom, BBQ Chicken
QPROVENANCE
Amicis wood-red ovens are imported
from Italy. The mushrooms are sourced
from a dedicated vendor in Shimla. The
pizzas are made using strong, 00 Napoli
our. Tomatoes are homegrown and all
the branches of the chain receive fresh
stocks from the central kitchen in Okhla
daily. All their imported Italian cheeses
are made using Italian or Canadian
cow milk, while the mozzarella is made
from bufalo milk. The poultry, meats
and vegetables are sourced from local,
reputed vendors.
QWHAT TO DRINK
At the Khan Market outlet, only the
usual non-alcoholic drinks are available,
including fresh juices, lemon and mint
soda. The ginger zz we order is at.
But plans are afoot to introduce wines
and beers, which pair particular well
with pizzas and are already served at
the Defence Colony outpost.
QINSIDER TIP
Explore the Chefs Specials, which
serve as a medium of experimentation.
Try the recently introduced hand-
tossed pizzas, including the aromatic
Bianca (topped with mascarpone,
parma ham and rocket) or the hand-
tossed pizza topped with roast lamb
and rosemary.
QDETAILS
47, Middle Lane, Khan Market.
Timings: Daily 11 am - 11 pm. Pizzas
` 290 onwards; drinks ` 65 onwards;
desserts ` 50 onwards.

Quality: 9/10
Choice: 9/10
Provenance: 9/10
Atmosphere: 9/10
Value: 8/10
Total: 44/50
Ranee Sahaney
AMICI,
NEW DELHI
7
Clockwise from
top: Amicis
Caprese pizza;
a pizza straight
out of the wood-
fired oven at
Fellini; the fuss-
free seating at
Fellini; Fellinis
vegetarian
Ortolana pizza
and the all
time favourite
Pepperoni pizza;
Amicis cosy
interiors
eat out
restaurant spy
This non-descript pizzeria is not
easy to spot. You have to walk down
the picturesque ea market in
Arambol, crowded and choc-a-bloc
with eateries, and just before you
reach the beachfront, look out for
the sign that proclaims you have
reached the best pizzeria in Goa.
This is Fellini originally started
by an Italian in 1995, it is a rustic,
old-fashioned, one-storied eatery with
no pretensions of being a ne dining
restaurant. You rst enter a passage
where the rewood for the oven is
stacked in one corner. The pizzeria
chefs in black vests work in an open
nook, with order tickets hanging on
clothes pegs. The tables are covered
with chequered tablecloths, and the
restaurant is lit with cane lampshades
suspended from the ceiling, which
cast blue and yellow shadows over
the tables and the worn plastic chairs.
This eatery has a bohemian ambience
symbolic of the 60s, with many of the
diners reecting that ethos as well.
QTHE PIZZAS
The menu has a variety of salads,
pastas, seafood and meat mains, but
the focus is squarely on the 12-
inch pizza. There are more than 20
varieties of pizza on the menu, which
fall into three categories: regular,
thin-crust pizzas with a variety
of vegetarian and non-vegetarian
toppings; calzones or folded pizzas
and purely non-vegetarian pizzas,
which include the restaurants old
favourites. There are just four varieties
of llings available for the calzones. I
decide to try Ortolana, a vegetarian
special, the Calzone Classicio and
the all time favourite Pepperoni
Pizza, considered one of Fellinis
signature pizzas. The Ortolana is a
pure delight. Thinly sliced, sauted
green eggplant, green zucchini and
bell peppers are laid out on a generous
bed of freshly made tomato sauce
and topped with gooey strings of
mozzarella cheese. The wholesome
vegetables lend a slight crunch to this
delectable creation, which denitely
comes recommended. The calzone is
balanced with fresh tomato, mozzarella
and only a faint avour of ham, so that
no one avour overwhelms the pizza.
However, while the avour of the crust
and the sauce in the Pepperoni Pizza
are spot on, the limited amount of
pepperoni itself is disappointing.
QBESTSELLERS
Pizza Ortolana, Calzone Classico
QPROVENANCE
The ingredients for the pizza crust
and the tomato sauce are locally
procured, as are the chicken and some
of the meats. Most of the vegetables,
the ham, pepperoni and cheese are
imported.
QWHAT TO DRINK
Indian-made foreign liquors, wines
and soft drinks are on the menu. A
glass of Grover Cabernet Shiraz is a
good accompaniment to the pizzas.
QINSIDER TIP
The thin crust pizzas are our pick
from the menu, but some of them may
need to be enhanced with seasoning
since foreigners make up a majority
of the clientele. Make sure you ask for
oregano and chilli akes since they are
not placed on tables. A refrigerated
cabinet at the entrance showcases
the outsourced desserts, of which the
Lemon Crostini is the only one worth
ordering.
QDETAILS
Fellini Italian Restaurant & Pizzeria,
Arambol Beach, Pernem, Goa. Tel:
+91 9764893896. Timings: Daily
6.30 pm - 11 pm. Pizzas ` 280
onwards; desserts ` 70 onwards.

Quality: 8/10
Choice: 7/10
Provenance: 7/10
Atmosphere: 6/10
Value: 8.5/10
Total: 36.5/50
Odette Mascarenhas
7
FELLINI
ITALIAN
RESTAURANT
AND
PIZZERIA, Goa
P
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Does your average diner agree with what the restaurant professionals think? BBC Good Food
reader Delnavaz Mehta and journalist and food writer Vikram Doctor review Mi Maratha in
Mumbai and come away with different reviews
vs
MI MARATHA
Located in the busy and chaotic district of Lower
Parel, eight-month-old Mi Maratha provides a
taste of traditional, home-style Konkani fare and
is a favourite among hungry ofce goers from the
neighbourhood. The unassuming menu features
classic delicacies such as Bharleli Vangi, Tisrya
Masala, Ambat Tikhat, Chicken Kolhapuri, a piquant
sol kadi, and ample choice of generously portioned
thaat (or thalis) from vegetarian, chicken and
mutton thalis, to sh or prawn-based ones.
QMi Maratha, GK Marg, next to Peninsula
Corporate Park, Lower Parel, Mumbai.
Tel: +91 22 24930345. Daily 11 am 3.30 pm,
7 pm 11 pm. Average spend for two: ` 600
Pushy table turning? No
Regular water offered? Yes
Veggie options? Limited
THE PRO
Vikram Doctor is a
journalist and food
writer based in Mumbai.
He writes about a broad
range of issues for
the Economic Times.
On his blog, On My
Plate, Doctor puts the
spotlight on both well-
loved and little known
ingredients used in
cooking and their roots
in culinary history.
THE SERVICE
Efcient and friendly.
Having few tables
should mean that
service is prompt and
not stretched, and it is
quick and pleasant here.
You are also greeted
with a smile, which is
rare in restaurants from
this region, where the
business seems a burden
rather than something
you like doing and want to
do well.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Most Konkani restaurants in
Mumbai are either canteen-level
basic in their design and dcor
(shared benches, steel plates, no
air-conditioning) or oppressively
kitschy (dim lighting, bad folk art
murals and waiters with pagadis
on their heads). Mi Maratha is
happily neither, but just simple
yet comfortable. It is quiet, has
just a few tables and is also air-
conditioned.
Tucked away in a corner of a busy
Lower Parel street, the restaurant
is a little challenging to locate. At
rst glance, it is not too impressive
and comes across as a quaint little
eatery. The interiors are simple yet
tasteful, giving it a homely feel,
which completes the experience
of eating home-style food.
Whats missing though, is some
lively music. The silence in the
restaurant can make it feel rather
uncomfortable and incomplete.
The service is good with
genuinely helpful staff.
However, some of our
orders get mixed up
despite only two of the
tables being occupied.
THE RESTAURANT
THE PUNTER
Delnavaz Mehta is a
marketing professional
with Unilever. By her own
description, she is an
explorer, traveller, thinker
and food lover.
THE FOOD
Outstanding. Konkani restaurants offer a limited thali, which can be a relief
after the super-abundance of Gujarati thalis, but it does mean that whats on
offer needs to be really good. Often it isnt. Chicken can be too spicy, sprouted
dal or usal can be watery and avourless, sh can be over fried to an oily, l
crispy abomination and the kokum drink that is an essential part of the thali
can be thin and acidic. Here everything is perfect, made even better by a few
excellent additions to the regular thali. Chicken curry comes with an extra
saucer of chicken kheema and sh is accompanied by a tasty kismur, a relish
made of small, dried prawns. We order mackerel (or bangda), which can often
be too bony, but here it is plump and perfectly fried so the semolina coating is
crisp, but the sh is still juicy. The kokum is creamy and positively singing with
exuberant garlic avour. Instead of chappatis, we ask for bhakri, the delicious,
thick rice rotis that Konkani restaurants usually offer, but generally are reluctant
to go to the extra trouble of making. Here, the owner himself suggests we opt
for bhakris. The only suggestion to give would be that a restaurant serving such
authentic, home-style food should offer more than the restaurant staple sh
varieties of pomfret, surmai and i rawas. How about lep, the delicious local sole,
or chonak, the Goan favourite that is much favoured abroad as barramundi?
But we count it as a plus that among the non-sh options is bheja (brains).
THE VERDICT
Really excellent. Simple
food like this can be the
hardest to get right,
but when you do, as Mi
Maratha does, it is bliss.
A restaurant totally
worth returning to again
and again.
THE BILL
Doctors meal for two including
two thalis was ` 400, inclusive `
of taxes.
FOOD: 9/10
ATMOPSHERE: 8/ 10
SERVICE: 8/10
TOTAL: 25/30
GO AGAIN? Tomorrow!
The menu features simple food that you are likely to nd in a Maharashtrian
home. Although the menu is quite expansive and includes a variety of
delicacies, it is limited by the fact that quite a few of the dishes are dependent
on the catch of the day or on good-quality meats. For instance, neither the
Khekda (crab) Masala nor the Bheja Masala is available when we visit. So we
start with the Surmai Fry instead. The surmai is coated with a masala batter i
and crisped to perfection but the sh itself is very dry and chewy. Not too
happy with this dish, we order the Chicken Sukha. The small, bite-sized chicken
pieces in a spicy coriander-laced gravy lift our spirits. The Pomfret and Jhinga
(prawn) thalis arrive next, with six generous bowls of fried prawns or a whole
pomfret, ambat tikhat or sweet and sour sh curry, sol kadi, sukhat koshimbir
(or crunchy, dried baby prawns), rice and bhakris. The soft esh and crisp,
batter-fried skin make the pomfret an instant hit. The curry is spicy and tangy,
and best chased down with the sol kadi. The bhakris are soft and uffy, and
when dipped into the curry, make for a winning combination. The bowl of aky
and crunchy sukhat koshimbir is an absolute delight. The traditional sweets
dont entice us so we complete the meal with a glass of masala chaas, which is
full of coriander and ginger.
Delnavazs meal for two
including two appetisers and
two thalis was ` 765, inclusive `
of taxes.
FOOD 6/10
ATMOSPHERE 6/10
SERVICE 5.5/10
TOTAL: 17.5/30
GO AGAIN? Maybe, to try
other seafood.
In my opinion, Mi Maratha
is denitely a go-to
destination for ofce
goers but not the rst
choice for family dinners.
Although there are a
few hits and misses, with
some amendments the
restaurant can denitely
be turned around. I nish
my meal feeling fullled
but not blown away.
Want to review a restaurant?
For a chance to become Good Foods
next punter, email a 200-word review
of any restaurant youve visited,
with the heading Pro vs Punter, to
bbcgoodfood@wwm.co.in with your
contact details. You could be the
lucky one!
Bangda Ambat Tikhat
Fi F sh
thali CCCCh CCh Ch Ch Chic ic ickke ke ke ke ke ke een n n n Ko KKo KKo Ko KKo Koolh lh lh lh lh lh lh lh hh lh h lhap ap ap ap ap aap ap app aap apur ur ur ur u iiiiiii
013 BBC GoodFood 119
A taste of Kerala
Hotel Deluxe
Few places in Mumbai can claim to offer a truly authentic taste of Kerala
like Deluxe, a no-frills joint in the heart of the maximum citys Fort district
Words KALYAN KARMAKAR Photographs BAJIRAO PAWAR
F
ort was once the hub of
Mumbai, the nucleus of
the city, the commercial
district and the economic
powerhouse of the nation. Today, it
lives as much in the past as in the
present. New commercial hubs have
cropped up all over Mumbai and Fort
is a shadow of its former glory. Thats
not the end of this story though.
A walk through the historic
district is like travelling in time.
The surroundings tell the tale of
Indias transition from British rule to
Independence. Temples, mosques,
churches and synagogues capture
the diversity that lies at the heart of
Mumbai. So do the restaurants.
The lanes of Fort are dotted
with restaurants, many more than
half-a-century old. These are the
places that have fuelled the worker
bees of Mumbai. Since almost every
community that worked in Fort had
their favourite pit stops, you will nd
Gomantak, Mangalorean, Gujarati,
Irani, Udipi, Malvani and Malayali
joints here. However, south Indian
restaurants from across the four states
dominate the landscape.
South Indians formed a large part
of the workforce in newly independent
India and several eateries came up to
sustain them. Street lore has it that the
chief minister of Kerala visited Fort in
the 1960s and inaugurated a restaurant
called Lalit. Today, you will nd two
or three restaurants bearing the same
name in this area. You will also come
eat out
of the eaten track
across a restaurant called The Taste of
Kerala, a vegetarian, south Indian thali
lunch home called Gopalashram and
the grandly named Hotel Deluxe.
According to Chandrahas, a waiter
who has worked at the restaurant for
more than a decade, Deluxe has been
around for a long time. About 50
years, he hazards a guess and breaks
into a smile, from the time when gang
lords like Haji Mastan and Mudaliar
ruled the streets of Mumbai.
Deluxe was started by Hussein Haji,
the father of the current owners Asraf
and Naseer, who is said to have hailed
from Kasargod in Kerala. It started
as a hole-in-the-wall joint in the same
place where the restaurant stands today.
Old-timers who love their meat swear
by the beef fry and parotta at this newly
refurbished restaurant.
A narrow staircase takes you to
the rst oor, which also includes an
air-conditioned section. Go for the
food, not the frills. The ambience may
be nothing to write home about, but
the service is warm and friendly. As
the waiters get to know you, they will
welcome you with a smile and seat
you as soon as possible. When you
become a regular, they might slip you
a complimentary glass of piping hot
rasam and even the occasional piece of
fried sh. Malayalam is the dominant
language of conversations, which tells
you that this is where patrons from
the state come for their x of home
food. It is also the best indicator of the
authenticity of the dishes.
If there were one compelling reason
for you to visit Deluxe, it would be
the famous sadhya. A sadhya (which
means banquet in Malayalam) is an
elaborate vegetarian meal from Kerala
traditionally served on a
banana leaf. Some credit
it to the Hindu Brahmin
Namboodiri or Nair
communities but it is also
served in Deluxe, a Muslim-
owned restaurant.
Tthe waitstaf are happy
to explain the dishes to you
in Hindi. In classic Indian
tradition, the best way to
Top 5 dishes to try
at Hotel Deluxe
7 Parotta
7 Kappa biryani
7 Prawns roast
7 Karimeen tawa fry
7 Beef masala
Hotel Deluxe has mastered the art of perfectly fried fish
eat out
of the eaten track
WHAT
WE
LIKE
The sadhya is a
classic showcase
of nuanced
vegetarian
cooking. Every
side dish is
distinct from the
other, yet they
are all perfectly
calibrated to
come together
on the palate.
We particularly
like the sweet,
tart and spicy
pineapple
kichaadi, which
puts the sweet
fruit in an
entirely new
savoury context.
enjoy the sadhya is to eat with your
hands. There is a sense of ceremony
attached to the meal. It starts with a fair
bit of fanfare, with an array of pickles
and condiments served on the banana
leaf. On ofer is a sour mango pickle,
tart inji-puli or ginger and tamarind
pickle and a hot chilli one. You also get
some salt and crunchy pappadam as
accompaniments.
A number of delectable side dishes
follow. They are all vegetarian, subtly
avoured and distinct from each other.
There is the Kerala classic avial, a hearty
vegetable stew made with drumsticks
and other vegetables avoured with
grated coconut and distinguished by
the use of coconut oil. The other dishes
include kichaadi, a sort of sweet chutney
made with pineapple or raw mango;
kaalan, a traditional curry made with
yam or raw plantain in a yoghurt and
coconut gravy; and olan, usually made
with gourds and avoured with coconut
milk, yoghurt and ginger.
While these make up the
supporting cast, rice is at the heart of
the sadhya. Drop by for an early lunch
and you might be able to savour the
ufy red rice that Malayalis love. This
runs out quickly as the day progresses.
Hot and spicy rasam and lentil-based
sambar are served as accompaniments.
It is said that each region of South
India has its own unique version of
sambar. The one at Deluxe is not
sweet and full of vegetables like okra
and drumsticks. To nish, you get a
little cup of payasam or sweet rice or
semolina pudding.
If the regular sadhya sounds like
too much food, theres more on ofer
during Onam or the harvest festival.
The festive spread includes 25 dishes,
and as the waiters will proudly tell you,
it is prepared by special cooks.
The fare at Deluxe isnt limited to
vegetarian specialities in fact, this is
just the place to try a variety of meat
and seafood prepared in traditional
Kerala style. Beef is not mentioned
on the menu, but the dry beef masala
mopped up with parotta is a must try.
If you are lucky, you might also be
able to try a nice, crispy fried pearlspot
or karimeen as it is known locally.
Karimeen is a delectable gourmet
experience, especially if it is fried right.
You could also try the biryani, which
serves as a delicious reminder that the
dish means diferent things in diferent
parts of India. The version served here
puts a south Indian spin on the classic
with moist, small-grained rice and fried
chicken. Or order the dum biryani, in
which the avours of the meat embrace
the rice. Still more variety? Try the sh,
prawn and meat roasts coated in a ery
masala or a coconut milk-based sh
curry or vegetable ishtew.
You could spend weeks eating at
Deluxe, discovering new facets to the
wonderful cuisine of Kerala. The state
has been called Gods own country.
Until you can make a visit there, a trip
to Deluxe is as good as it gets.
Hotel Deluxe, 28, SBS Road, Pitha
Street, Near Hitkari House, Fort,
Mumbai. Tel: +91 22 22042351
If there were one compelling reason to
visit Deluxe, it would be the famous
sadhya. A sadhya (which means banquet
in Malayalam) is an elaborate veggie meal
traditionally served on a banana leaf
The facade of the
refurbished restaurant
A customer
enjoys the sadhya
The seafood and meat
specialities are must tries
eat out
restaurant recipe
Signature dish
Pesto Pesto
Karen Anand shares her recipe for
this flavour-packed Italian soup
Perched on the 12th floor
of Punes Onyx mall, Italian
restaurant Pesto Pesto offers a
sweeping view of the city. Apart
from the popular set lunch,
the eatery has a limited yet
commendable menu designed
by Chef Karen Anand. The retro
magazine-style menu includes
sumptuous paninis, zesty salads
and appetisers, pizzas straight
from the wood-fired oven, a range
of pastas and authentic desserts.
The spacious lounge adds to the
casual vibe of the restaurant.
Seafood broth
Serves 4 Q 30 minutes
Q EASY
Saffron really brings out
the flavour of the tomato.
When tomatoes are in
season (summer and
October), you hardly need
to cook the broth at all. Let
the whole lot pass through
a muslin cloth to achieve
what is called an essence.
Serve this cold along with
poached prawns.
olive oil 2 tbsp
onion 1, chopped
red chilli flakes 1/4 tsp
salt and ground black
pepper to taste
tomatoes 6, chopped
chicken stock 2 cups
white wine 1/2 cup
saffron a pinch
prawns and fish 200g, cut
into 2-inch pieces + 1 large
prawn to garnish
QHeat the oil in a heavy-
bottomed or stock pan
over medium heat. Add
onion, red chilli akes
and season to taste. Stir
in the garlic and cook
until fragrant. Tip in
the chopped tomatoes,
chicken stock and wine.
Bring to simmer and cook
for about 7-10 minutes.
QPass everything through
a ne strainer without
pushing too much so that
the broth is quite clear.
QPat the seafood dry
and season with salt and
pepper to taste. Place the
seafood and saffron in the
broth slowly and cook till
done, about 7-8 minutes.
Season and serve with
herbed bruschetta.
eat away
Fabulous foodie destinations from around the world. Go on a food trip!
IN THIS ISSUE
7 Eat like a local: Australia p 126 7A culinary guide to Srinagar, p 132
7 Budget and Blowout guide to Puducherry, p 137 7Postcard from Kuala Lumpur, p 138
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Cutting-edge restaurants, hearty native food and world-class wines they are
all up for grabs Down Under
Words and photographs NEETI MEHRA
T
hink of all things edible
in Australia and the
image of a unique
pastiche forms in the
mind. On one end of this grand bufet
rests the food of the native Australians,
a culinary legacy of local fruits, berries,
seeds, meat (especially animal meats
such as kangaroo and emu) and sh,
colloquially known as bushfoods
or bush tucker, harking back nearly
50,000 years. At the other end lies the
food of the immigrants, which has
evolved over the last few centuries
seedlings in the face of the bush, yet
just as satiating and very slick.
One reason for the robustness of
the pantry Down Under is the unique
diversity of its microclimate. Moving
upwards from the cooler south, lush
with aromatic herbs and sculpted
with low-slung hills weighed down
with grapes, the warmer north is a
tropical paradise, a steamboat perfect
for plump mangos, ripe avocados and
crunchy and creamy macadamia nuts.
Australias wide, rolling coast
abounds in an array of shy delights
such as Southern blue n tuna, King
George whitings, mud crabs and odder
sounding brethren such as the dhush
(also known as the pearl perch), the
yabby (a crustacean that is a lobster
lookalike), the balmain bug (a species
of lobster) and the Moreton bay bug,
among others. In each of its tiny towns
and coastal cities, you will nd cafs
Chef Neil Perry
is the Director of
Rockpool Bar and
Grill, Sydney
invariably serving buckets laden with
sh and chips washed down with a
strong local beer.
Australias bustling cities
are purveyors of great culinary
experiences but so is the countryside.
In Sydney you can dine like a king,
and when the sun rises again, a short
drive transports you to Hunter Valley.
And from Adelaide, you can breeze
into the Barossa Valley. Both these
wine-producing regions ofer the
opportunity to sample the nest wines,
try delicious, award-winning cheeses,
and have cutting-edge meals at rustic
and modern getaways, all amid lush
green vineyards the fruits of an
industry started by German, Italian
and French immigrants.
Gourmet mavericks can open their
bellies to a smorgasbord of new food
experiences. Catch a mud crab and
prepare it with hot chillies washed
down with a delicate Riesling, stab
your fork into a crocodile sausage
soaked in wattleseed sauce, or
barbeque a barramundi under the
stars.
Dont leave without sampling the
traditional nibbles. They include Tim
Tams chocolate biscuits; pavlovas
decadent meringue-based desserts
named after the Russian ballet
dancer Anna Pavlova; and Caramello
Koalas chocolate bars shaped like
koalas, an ode to the regions rich,
natural edible bounty.
Australia
eat like a local
Roast beetroot salad
with goats cheese
Serves 4 Q45 minutes + roasting
QEASY
Recipe NEIL PERRY
Australian chef Neil Perry celebrates
the beetroot, the pickled version of
which is found frequently in burgers
throughout the country, and also the
countrys love for dairy, with goats
cheese, in this delectable salad.
beetroot 4, washed
sea salt 1 tsp + extra to season (try
Roland available at gourmet stores)
pepper to season, freshly ground
baby lettuce 2 leaves, washed and
dried
walnuts 50g, roasted and chopped
EASY MENU FOR 4
7 Roast beetroot salad
with goats cheese
7 Barbecued king prawns
7 Lamb, harissa and
almond sausage rolls
7 Beer battered fish
7 Lamingtons
eat away
australia
eat away
australia
Roast beetroot salad with goats cheese
Paul Allam and David McGuinness, co-owners
of the hip Bourke Street Bakery, Sydney
A local food market in Adelaide
Beer battered fish
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Hand-churned butter
Makes 125g Q30 minutes + overnight
setting QA LITTLE EFFORT
fresh buffalo milk 2l (available at your
local dairy)
homemade curd 1 tbsp
ice cubes 5-6
QBoil the fresh buffalo milk. Let it
cool and chill in the refrigerator. Skim
masterclass
diy
Make a batch of home-style, hand-churned makkhan with our deliciously creamy recipe.
Great on parathas, toast and just about everything!
White butter
out the cream (malai) that comes on
the top of the milk with a spoon. Save
the cream in a bowl. Let it reach room
temperature.
QTake the homemade curd and mix
with the cream. Let it set overnight in
a warm place. In the morning, put the
set curd in a wide bowl and using a
hand blender, churn the set curd on a
medium speed for about 5-8 minutes
until the solids can be seen separating
from the liquids. The
solids are butter while
the liquid is called whey.
QAdd ice cubes. This will help
the butter solidify and come on top.
Slowly remove the solid butter with
a slotted spoon or with your palm,
leaving the whey behind. Reserve
the butter and use as required. Best
consumed within 3-4 days if stored in
a refrigerator.
Make sure
you use
only fresh
full-fat milk.
Recipe AMIT PAMNANI Photograph PRATEEKSH MEHRA
eat away
australia
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
QEat locally for instance, while in South Australia
scour the menu for South Australian oysters.
Restaurants also offer fresh and seasonal sh of the
day.
QMost menus list special dishes. You can refer to
seasonalfoodguide.com for details on local leafy greens.
QTipping is not compulsory in Australia, but if youve
enjoyed your meal, feel free to tip.
QWhile you can opt for elaborate tours to sample
bush tucker cuisine, the native food of the Australian
Aborigines, you can also choose to stay in the city and
sample ingredients that have made their way into the
mainstream such as nger limes, Davidson plums,
Warrigal greens (also known as New Zealand spinach),
native peaches and wattleseed (the edible seeds of the
Australian acacia plant, either eaten fresh or dried and
milled into our).
GETTING THERE
Malaysia Airlines has a worldwide network of 80
destinations across four continents. It offers direct
weekly ights from India to Kuala Lumpur, operating
from Chennai, Bengaluru, Mumbai, Hyderabad and
New Delhi with 14 weekly connections to Sydney and
Melbourne. For more information visit malaysiaairlines.
com.
goats cheese 250g (try Lemnos
QPreheat the oven to 180C. Lay a
square of foil on the work surface, large
enough to wrap the beetroot in. Place
the beetroot in the centre of the foil
and drizzle with oil, 1 tbsp of the red
wine vinegar, sea salt and 2 tbsp water.
Wrap up tightly, place the parcel on
an oven tray and roast for about an
hour and 15 minutes, or until tender.
Check the tenderness of the beetroot
by inserting a knife into the centre of
each.
QRemove the beetroot from the
oven and set aside to cool. When the
beetroot is cool enough to handle,
rub all the skin off; this should happen
easily.
QQuarter each beetroot lengthways.
Place in a bowl and drizzle with oil and
more of the red wine vinegar, season
with sea salt and a grind of fresh
pepper. Arrange the lettuce over 4
plates, place 4 pieces of beetroot on
each and sprinkle the walnuts over.
QPlace a few dollops of goats cheese
in the centre of each plate and drizzle
some more oil and red wine vinegar.
Sprinkle with sea salt and pepper.
Barbecued king prawns
QEASY
Recipe NEIL PERRY
The chefs original recipe uses green
Australian king prawns, found on the
coast of Western Australia, South
Australia and Queensland to create a
lightly flavoured entre.
king prawns 16, extra large, shell on,
cut lengthways down the middle
lemon juice 2 tbsp
pepper a pinch, freshly ground
THE MARINADE
lemon 1, zested
garlic cloves 3, peeled
ginger a 2cm piece, peeled and grated
chilli flakes 1 tsp
oregano leaves 1 tbsp, chopped
sage leaves 1 tbsp, chopped
sea salt a pinch (try Roland available at
gourmet stores)
extra virgin olive oil 100ml + extra to
serve
QTo make the marinade, place all the
ingredients except the oil in a mortar
and crush with a pestle to a coarse paste.
Mix in the oil. Place the prawns in a large
bowl and pour over the marinade. Allow
to stand for 1 hour.
QPreheat the barbecue, making sure
the bars are clean. Place the prawns
on the barbecue for 1 minute, then turn
over. After another minute, remove from
the barbecue and pile onto a platter.
QDrizzle with oil and fresh lemon juice
and give a generous grind of fresh
pepper.
Lamb, harissa and
Serves 4 Q1 hour 15 minutes +
simmering + baking
QMODERATELY EASY
Recipe PAUL ALLAM and DAVID
McGUINNESS, Co-owners, Bourke Street
Bakery, Sydney
This quintessentially Australian savoury
pastry has a balanced mix of textures
and flavours, thanks to the spicy North
African chilli paste, harissa.
THE HARISSA
red bell peppers 5, deseeded,
membrane removed and nely chopped
onions 350g, browned and nely
chopped
red chillies 2, small, nely chopped
coriander seeds 1 1/2 tsp
smoked paprika 15g
water 100ml
THE ROLL
almonds 75g, blanched
lamb 1.2kg, minced
couscous 75g (try Tipiak available at
gourmet stores)
raisins 110g, chopped
A koala and its joey at the
Taronga Zoo in Sydney
I
t was a night like no other.
Where everyone, be it the
humblest technician in the
12th row to the mightiest star
gracing the front row, was a
winner. Where camaraderie
prevailed. Where the chivalry
shown by people who didnt
get to take home the trophy
was praiseworthy. They clapped
for the achievements of their
peers because they knew they
were celebrating cinema. Read
on and sample some vignettes.
Filmfare recollects the sights
and the sounds of the 58th Idea
Filmfare Awards
REMEMBER
A NIGHT TO
Shah Rukh Khan and Saif Ali
Khan have the audience in splits
58
th
IDEA FILMFARE AWARDS 2012
eat away
australia
eat away
australia
Lamb, harissa and almond sausage rolls
A traditional Aboriginal dance
Barbecued king prawns
Port Stephens, a scenic harbour not too far from Sydney
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MINI GUIDE TO SYDNEY
EAT
Sydney is the melting pot of Australia, offering a
wide variety of dining options. Visit Single Origin
Coffee (Tel: +612 9211 0665) for your daily x of
exotic coffee and hearty Australian fare. If you prefer
old-fashioned dining, head to the waterfront Otto
Ristorante (Tel: +612 9368 7488, ottoristorante.com.
au) serving contemporary Italian cuisine, and dine on
fresh Sydney Rock Oysters and tender wagyu beef.
STAY
Overlooking the shimmering blue waters surrounding
the Sydney Opera, the Sydney Harbour Marriott
Hotel Circular Quay (marriott.com.au/hotels/
travel/sydmc-sydney-harbour-marriott-hotel-at-
circular-quay/) is a well-appointed hotel, replete
with a spa and ne restaurants, tucked in the heart
of the bustling city. Doubles from 359 AUD. The
Hughenden (thehughenden.com.au) is a country-
style hotel rubbing shoulders with the fashion
district, Oxford Street. Doubles from AUD 163.
DO
QGear up for an adrenaline rush atop Sydneys
most iconic attraction, the Harbour Bridge. Cheerful
guides regale you with nuggets of information on
the BridgeClimb (bridgeclimb.com), taking you up its
majestic arch, a soaring summit of 134 metres that
offers magnicent views of the city. Choose different
routes and different timings to gaze upon Sydneys
myriad wonders.
QOgle at koala bears and cheeky Tasmanian devils
at the delightful Taronga Zoo (taronga.org.au/
taronga-zoo), a quick ferry or bus ride from the
salt 20g
black pepper a pinch, freshly ground
puff pastry 1 (try Jus Rol available at
gourmet stores)
egg 1, beaten, for brushing
poppy seeds for sprinkling
QTo make the harissa, put the bell
peppers, onions, garlic cloves, chillies,
coriander seeds and paprika in a large
saucepan over medium heat.
QAdd the water and simmer for
2 hours, stirring every 10-20 minutes,
or until reduced to a thick paste. As the
mixture begins to reduce, the sugar will
ooze out of the bell peppers and will
stick to the bottom of the pan, so keep
a close watch. Stir regularly.
QRemove from the heat and allow to
cool. Weigh and set aside 350g of the
harissa to use in the sausage roll lling.
QTo prepare the roll, preheat the
oven to 200C. Put the almonds on a
baking tray and cook for 5 minutes, or
until lightly golden. Roughly chop and
add to a large mixing bowl with the
lamb, couscous, raisins, harissa, salt
and pepper. Using your hands, mix the
meat quite forcefully for 3 minutes, to
thoroughly combine (this will also work
the protein in the meat). The raisins
and couscous soak up the juices of the
mix and will bind the lling together.
QRoll out the puff pastry into a
rectangle, about 92 x 32 cm. Cut the
pastry into 6 rectangles, about 15 x 30
cm each.
QDivide the lling mixture into
6 even-sized portions. On a clean work
surface, roll each portion out into a
30cm log with a 3cm diameter. Place
each log lengthways in the centre of a
pastry rectangle and brush one long
edge with egg. Firmly fold the pastry
over, pressing to enclose the log tightly,
leaving the ends open.
QCut each roll into 2 even-sized
pieces. Place on baking trays lined with
baking paper, seam side down. Brush
the top of each roll with the egg and
sprinkle poppy seeds.
QReduce the oven temperature to
190C. Bake for 30 minutes or until
golden brown.
Beer battered sh
Serves 4 Q 30 minutes QEASY
Recipe PHILLIP COLLIS, Executive Chef,
Hunter Valley Resort
You cant escape this must-have as you
breeze along Australias coast a staple
thats adapted to suit the brew available.
This version of the crunchy recipe calls
for bluetongue alcoholic ginger beer and
local hoki fish.
THE BEER BATTER
plain flour 250g
olive oil 40g
sea salt 5g + extra to season (try
Roland available at gourmet stores)
pepper 5g
lager beer 250ml, chilled
egg whites 100g
white fish fillets 4
lemon wedges to serve
THE AIOLI
sea salt 5g (try Roland available at
gourmet stores)
egg yolks 2
olive oil 1 cup
water 30ml
lemon juice 30ml
wholegrain mustard 15g (try
Tracklements available at gourmet
stores)
QTo make the aioli, mix the garlic,
salt and egg yolks in a food processor
until well combined. Slowly add the oil,
processing to form a thick mayonnaise.
Transfer to a bowl.
QStir in water, lemon juice and mustard.
Cover with cling-lm and refrigerate.
QTo make the sh, mix plain our, olive
oil, sea salt and pepper together. Add
beer to the mixture until a smooth
batter is formed. Lightly whisk the egg
whites. Mix egg whites with the beer
batter.
QDip pieces of sh, one at a time, into
the batter to coat. Drain off excess.
Deep-fry for 3-4 minutes or until golden
brown and cooked. Transfer to a plate.
Season with sea salt and serve with aioli
and lemon wedges.
The rugged coast of Sydney
eat away
australia
city. Dont miss the zoos Wild Australia Experience
where an expert introduces you to the continents
quirky fauna. You can also feed an emu, scratch a
wallaby behind its ear and examine the burrow of the
endangered southern hairy-nosed wombat. Priceless.
QThere is only one thing more thrilling than
catching a performance at the Sydney Opera House
(sydneyoperahouse.com), and that is a behind-the-
doors tour of this World Heritage Monument. A treat
for theatre buffs, this two hour-long tour lets you oat
through the celebrity green rooms, grab a mic and
even pirouette on stage.
MUST BUY
VEGEMITE This dark brown Australian food paste is
made from yeast extract, a byproduct of beer, and can
be slathered over sandwiches, crumpets and crackers,
though it is an acquired taste.
WINE Make sure to pick up wines from the Clare Valley,
McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley in South Australia;
the Yarra Valley in Victoria; the Hunter Valley in New
South Wales; Margaret River in Western Australia and
Richmond in Tasmania.
FINGER LIME This eshy, juicy fruit of a delicate
rainforest tree is used to make chutneys and syrups.
ANZAC BISCUITS During the First World War,
Australian women made biscuits from rolled oats,
sugar, our, coconut, butter, golden syrup or treacle
and soda bicarbonate for their sons, husbands and
brothers who served in the armed forces. These
nutritional biscuits are available even today.
MACADAMIA NUTS Native to East Australia, these
nuts can be eaten like a snack or used in gourmet
preparations and desserts.
Lamingtons
Serves 4 Q1 hour 20 minutes +
overnight refrigerating QEASY
Recipe courtesy SAMUEL CHAN
THORNLEY, Chef, Exceptional
Kangaroo Island
Said to be named after Lord
Lamington, who served as the
Governor of Queensland centuries
ago, a Lamington is a simple sponge
cake dipped in chocolate and then into
desiccated coconut.
THE BASIC BUTTER CAKE
self-raising flour 120g (try Bluebird
sugar 120g
butter 60g
milk 80ml
vanilla essence
eggs 2
THE ICING
butter 1/2 tbsp, for greasing
desiccated coconut 60g
icing sugar 1 cup (try Bluebird available
at gourmet stores)
cocoa powder 30g
water 200ml, boiled
vanilla essence a few drops
QPreheat the oven to 180C. To
make the butter cake, grease and line
the bottom of a shallow rectangular
baking dish. Mix the our and sugar
together for 5 minutes. Add butter,
milk, vanilla essence and eggs. Mix
well.
QPour the mixture into the baking
dish. Cook for approximately
30 minutes. Cool the cake before
cutting into squares. Store them in
the freezer overnight.
QTo make the icing, scatter a thick
bed of desiccated coconut on a sheet
of greaseproof paper.
QSift the icing sugar and cocoa in a
double boiler. Add water and vanilla
and stir over hot water until smooth.
The icing should be thin add a little
more water if necessary, and keep the
bowl over hot water while working.
QSpear each square of cake on a
fork and dip into icing. Hold over bowl
a moment while icing initially sets,
then roll in coconut, using the paper
to help. Place on a wire rack to dry.
Lamingtons can be frozen separately
to keep longer.
eat away
australia
MENU DECODER
CHIKO ROLL A Chinese spring roll with an
Australian twist, this popular savoury takeaway
snack best describes the nations culinary
heterogeneity. It is a hearty roll stuffed with beef,
cabbage, celery and corn, among other things.
PAVLOVA This much beloved dessert is the
subject of a long-standing food war between
Australia and New Zealand, with both countries
claiming the delicious, meringue-based dessert
with a soft, marshmallowy centre to be their own.
In Australia, the legend goes that the pavlova
(affectionately abridged to pav) was created in
honour of Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova when
she visited the country in the 1920s.
LAMINGTON A square-shaped sponge cake
coated in a layer of chocolate icing and
desiccated coconut.
Lamingtons
Srinagar is a non-stop foodie adventure, teeming with fresh and
abundant local produce, elaborate wazwan and unique street eats
available at every nook
Words and photographs MARRYAM H RESHII
City on the plate
Srinagar
EAT7DO7SHOP7STAY
EAT
Srinagar likes any type of food as long
as it is Kashmiri. So dont go looking
out for Chinese, Thai and Italian: it
is simply not that type of city. On the
plus side, Kashmiri wazwan is nothing
short of a culinary revelation.
Dont want a full meal but a heavy
snack instead? Srinagar is your place:
the city heaves with lamb kebabs,
Kashmiri fried snacks and a variety
of breads, biscuits and savouries
that will keep you enthralled. The
down-to-earth prices and sheer
unpretentiousness of it all only
sweetens the deal.
If you are looking for Kashmiri
wazwan, be aware it was never
intended as an la carte ofering but
as a gastronomic way of using up a
whole sheep. So, tabak maaz can only
be made from the ribs, methi maaz
can only come from the stomach and
intestines, dhaniphol only from the
shank and so on. By the time you have
a dozen or so dishes ready, the whole
carcass has been used. But such is the
ingenuity and so great the plethora of
sauces that it does not seem like cucina
povera, but quite the contrary. You need
an invitation to a wedding or wazwan
(which means banquet) to sample the
full spread but the most popular dishes
are available all over town.
Left (from top):
Children look
out the window
in the Old City
of Srinagar;
Boats called
doongas are the
movable homes
of a particular
community; A
vendor selling
Kashmiri spices
The best-known full-service
restaurant is Ahdoos. Its shabby,
faded charm is as much part of
the appeal as the wazwan it serves.
Methi maaz (chopped stomach and
intestines cooked with dried methi
leaves) sounds less than felicitous
but is enormously popular, seekh
kebab, tabak maaz (shallow-fried
ribs), rogan josh, rista and gushtaba
(two variations of meat balls made of
pounded rather than minced meat),
lahabi kebabs (pounded meat kebabs
in gravy), roast chicken wazwan style
and yakhni, or curd based gravy are
all available individually. At a banquet,
you would sit on the ground and eat
the whole lot in one sitting. You can
sample the full wazwan (upwards
of eight courses, depending on your
appetite and budget) at any hotel or
houseboat mentioned in the Stay
section (see p 136), with advance
notice. That apart, there are other
options. In many parts of the city
there are streetside stalls selling three
or four types of wazwan dishes. Have
a portion or two packed and enjoy it
in your hotel room. Wazwan is always
eaten with plain steamed rice. The
most famous dishes of a wazwan are
the ristas and gushtabas. They are also
the most painstaking to make and the
most widely available owing to their
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A variety of fish can be
found in Kashmirs lakes P
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BUY
Walnuts, almonds, morels (` 17,000-25,000 a kg)
and safron (approximately ` 200 for 1gm) all grow
abundantly in Kashmir. The best place to buy all of
these is Amin bin Khaliq, a venerable old store owned
by a family of growers and traders (1/A Polo View, Tel:
+91 194 247386). The new crop comes into stores in
October. Saklains Coterie (32, Polo View, Tel: +91
9419021880) is a tiny store that has food grade oils from
the young owners family plantations. Organic lavender
and rosemary oil, ` 150 for 6ml, and almond oil, ` 150
for 60ml, are great souvenirs for the hobby cook. Jee
Enn Bakery and Moonlight have marvellous ginger
biscuits. In Jee Enn, they are available in the winter
months. Also buy the Kashmiri spice mix known as waer,
which is sold in cake form. It is made with pounded
red chillies, shallots, garlic and select spices. Available
unbranded all over town, the best version is by local
spice giants Kanwal and Rahmat, available at all the
departmental stores on Residency Road.
Above: Moinj
gool or fryums,
enjoyed with
tea; Right: Dried
morels at Amin
bin Khaliq;
Facing page:
Gardeners selling
vegetables grown
on the Dal Lake
popularity, which is why purveyors
like Manzoor do brisk business.
Moreover, Manzoors ristas and
gushtabas are made with beef, so they
have an earthier appeal besides being
pocket-friendly.
Next in line are kebabs grilled on
bhattis or open charcoal grills that sit
atop carts. In the evenings, Ghanta
Ghar and its surroundings are smoky
with fragrant clouds of lamb (or beef),
melting fat and spices. Some kebabs
are made of minced lamb, others are
actually tikkas, and still others are made
with the chewy meat from the sheeps
head. Besides the easy-to-access
Ghanta Ghar, the other areas famous
for tikkas and kebabs are Khayyam
Chowk and the funky ethnic market in
the vicinity of Hazratbal, the marble-
domed mosque. The straggling row of
clean but basic eateries in Khayyam
Chowk, abutting a disused cinema
hall called Khayyam, are famous as
much for the half dozen chutneys they
serve as for the tujj (stick or skewer)
itself. The chutneys are made of
pumpkin, onion, walnut, radish, mint
and coriander. Connoisseurs rate this
row of restaurants the highest in the
city, and for sheer atmospherics, it is
admittedly a hard act to beat.
Vegetarians need not despair. Nadru
moinj is an interesting fried snack
featuring batons of lotus stem, sliced
potato wafers or dried peas all dipped
in a aming orange rice our batter
and deep-fried. Served with a chutney
made of sliced onions, chopped green
chillies and vinegar, this is a marriage
made in culinary heaven. Then there
is masala: boiled kernels of wheat or
rajma or a black dal available only in
Kashmir called vari moth. Sold mainly
at shrines across the city, the secret to
this delicacy is the long cooking time
on low heat which ensures that every
grain is separate and bursts with a
satisfying plop on your palate. It is not
only healthy because it is steamed but
inexpensive as well: ` 10 will procure
you an hours munching! You do
have to look for it though, notably at
Hazratbal. Theres also another kind
of masala, quite like the Kashmiri
equivalent of hummus and pita bread.
It is made with safed chana cooked with
spices till dry and served on a rened
our chapatti.
While in Srinagar, dont forget
to sample the innumerable breads,
biscuits and cakes. Though most
of these appeal to the international
palate, they have been made for the
Kashmiri market and include coconut
eat away
local knowledge
macaroons, tea cakes, plum cakes and
sweet, melt-in-the-mouth cookies called
toula tschochhen that are available in a
variety of avours. Walnut fudge is a
must-try sweetmeat. A shortcrust base
is topped with a melting, gooey layer
of chopped walnuts in a tofee sauce.
Very few bakeries attempt this dish and
even fewer get it right. Moonlight is
the very best of these (Tel: +91 194
2426400). At ` 40, this is a piece of
heaven (beware, theres no stopping at
just one piece).
With salted tea, Kashmiris eat a
variety of savoury breads and puf
pastries with a local spin. Baqarkhani
are rounds of puf pastry that
are dipped into salt tea and eaten
soggy. Sheermal is a cross between
bread and shortcrust pastry, while
a Kashmiri kulcha is a melt-in-the-
mouth masterpiece with a hefty dose
of shortening. To try some of these,
visit Jee Enn Bakery which is both
well-known as well as accessible, being
on the arterial MA Road (Tel: +91 194
2478628). While all these are savoury
snacks made in industrial ovens by
corner shop bakers, breads such as
lavasse, tschochvoru and tschot are made
by hereditary bakers called kaandurs
who operate tandoors. While tandoors
are used to cook meat as well as breads
in the rest of the country, in Kashmir,
as in Central Asia, the tandoor is for
bread alone.
DO
A modest percentage of the citys
vegetables is grown on the Dal Lake
in oating gardens called demb.
Although dembs afect the health of the
lake, there is no doubt that they make a
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picturesque sight. The produce grown
on the demb is cultivated by individual
families and sold every morning at the
break of dawn in the interiors of the
Dal, which functions as a vegetable
market. Every shikarawala knows
the area, but in order to experience it
rsthand you have to book a shikara
the previous evening. The vegetable
market operates for about an hour. You
will see around 50 boats converge and
navigate skilfully around one another
at the speed of lightning, but without
a single collision. This is a purely
wholesale market where gardeners
come with laden boats and buyers with
empty ones. The vegetables traded
depend upon the season, with autumn
being the most picturesque time. The
nearest ghat is at Nehru Park, about
25 minutes away. You can expect to
pay between ` 300-500 for a shikara,
based on the amount of time you
spend at the market.
STAY
Give the hotels a skip and spend a
couple of days on a houseboat, a
unique experience youll have only
in Srinagar. They are moored all over
the Dal and Nigeen Lakes as well
as on a stretch of the River Jhelum
from Dalgate to the Bund. The Dal
is not as pristine as the Nigeen, but it
does ofer a wider range of views: you
will nd houseboats facing vegetable
gardens, near (illegal) islands on which
villages have sprung up and near wide
swathes of water. If you are on the Dal,
you will need to organise a shikara or
kishti (a smaller boat) each time you
want to cross. From any boat on the
Left: Bakeries in Hazratbal specialise
in roath a cross between a bread
and a cake; Below: The dried flower
of the cockscomb plant has no taste
but it is used to give curries like
rogan josh a rich hue
Nigeen, you can disembark straight
onto the banks. Butts Clermont
Houseboats on the westernmost
shore of the Dal are reminiscent of
the British Raj in their atmosphere
(buttsclermonthouseboat.com).
Other recommended ones on Nigeen
Lake include Mascot Houseboats
(mascothouseboats.com) and Gurkha
Houseboats, which have a tie-up
with the WelcomHeritage group
(welcomheritagehotels.com/hotel/
gurkha-houseboats).
For a fabulous, 360 degree view, it
doesnt get a lot better than Vivanta
by Taj (vivantabytaj.com/Dal-View-
Srinagar). The Lalit, set in a former
maharajas palace with extensive
lawns, ofers opulent digs (thelalit.
com/the-lalit-grand-palace-srinagar).
Far smaller in scale is Dar es Salam
(hoteldaressalam.com) on the banks of
the Nigeen Lake, a home managed by
members of the family and their staf.
Ahdoos Hotel (ahdooshotel.com)
is located in the heart of the city from
where you can walk to the shopping
and eating areas. To stay in a real home
in upscale Rajbagh with excellent
home-style food and personalised
service, you would do well to check out
Narboo House (opposite New Era
Public School, contact Stanzin Narboo
on +91 9622375122).
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BUDGET
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BLOWOUT
BUDGET and BLOWOUT guide to
Puducherry
7Banana Caf is a casual, rooftop restaurant with a
European-centric menu. Try their fresh salads, ` 120-
150. Follow it up with a Ragi Galette or Pasta Arrabiata,
for ` 100 and ` 150 respectively. End the lunch with
a slice of their homemade cake for ` 50-80. (Tel: +91
9626561259) 7Surguru Spot (Tel: +413 430 8084)
is perfect for authentic South Indian food. Order the
Surguru special thali with diferent curries and rice
preparations at ` 150 or snack on dosas for ` 47-70.
Puducherrys popular Italian restaurant Don Giovanni
boasts of a vast menu with several pastas, pizzas and
other delicacies. Try the Chicken Cacciatora with
homemade focaccia for ` 250 and follow it up with rich
chocolate ice cream, ` 150. (Tel: +91 9894897955)
7One of Puducherrys oldest restaurants, Rendezvous
(rendezvous.co.in) has a huge menu and casual, outdoor
seating. Order the vegetable Shashlyk Sizzler for ` 250
and try the French classic Crme Caramel, ` 160.
Seagull (Tel: +413 2338643) is a fuss-free
scenic rooftop restaurant overlooking the sea.The
drinks range from ` 35-150. 7L Space (+91
9944337940), a rooftop bar in a French quarter with
a whimsical ambience made up of mismatched chairs
and fairy lights is a great, relaxed hangout. Although
the bar menu is limited, the Mojito and Litchi
Monaco, ` 200 each, are quite popular.
Zuka (ebonyfoods.in), the only chocolate boutique in
Puducherry is the best way to indulge your sweet tooth.
Buy edible souvenirs such as trufe boxes to take home.
7A walk along the beach promenade and cofee at Le
Caf (Tel: +413 2223854) makes for an evening well
spent. 7A day trip to Auroville, an eight-kilometre ride
from Puducherry will give you a glimpse of the unique
spiritual township created for human unity and the
breathtaking, gilded dome of the Matrimandir.
A beautiful heritage guesthouse surrounded by trees
with an open courtyard and an in-house kitchen,
Gratitude (gratitudeheritage.in) ofers excellent value
for money. Doubles for ` 3,500-6,000. 7Aurodhan
Guest House (aurodhan.com) is situated above the
Aurodhan Art Gallery. Each room is aesthetically
furnished and decorated with objects from the art
gallery. Doubles from ` 1,800-3,800.
7Located in the courtyard of a restored
building, La Maison Ros(Tel: +413
4210806) ofers continental delicacies.
Try the Seersh a la Plancha with
Chimichuri sauce and Grilled Beef
Fillet, ` 410. Sample their La Maison
Ros special drink (gin or vodka with
lychee juice, mint and ginger), ` 250,
and the New York Cheesecake, ` 200.
7Try the restaurant at Villa Shanti
(lavillashanti.com), a new hotel with
contemporary French architecture. Sip
on cocktails, ` 375 onwards, with the
Prawn and Pomello Salad, ` 250. Try
the Prawn Wrapped Fish, Tiger Prawns
or Patra ni Lobster, ` 475-750. End the
evening with the Orange and Almond
Cake or Crepe Suzette for ` 175.
7Lighthouse at Hotel Promenade is
a rooftop restaurant with a magnicent
view of the ocean. The Kamikaze,
` 250, and Green Mango Margarita,
` 330, are highly recommended.
Ask your server for complimentary
hummus and bread. (sarovarhotels.
com/Pondicherry-the-promenade)
7Shop on Mission Street from stores
like Kalki, Casablanca and Hidesign for
leather bags and accessories and have a
quick bite at the fancy Hidesign Caf
(Tel: +0413 222 9944) located on the
top oor of the store.
7Hotel De LOrient is one of the
best heritage hotels in Puducherry.
The beautifully restored building dates
back to the late 1760s. With luxurious
rooms ranging between ` 3,500-7,500
(inclusive of breakfast), the hotel
ofers a mix of French ambience and
Indian hospitality. (hotel-de-lorient.
neemranahotels.com)
Once referred to as the
French Riviera of the
East, Puducherry was a
French colony till 1954.
The French influence still
lingers in its architecture
and cuisine. The local Tamil
cuisine matches French
cuisine note for note along
with Creole cuisine.
A melting pot of cuisines, Puducherry boasts a food
culture flecked with French, Tamil and Creole influences
Words PRIYANKA GUPTA
Kuala Lumpur
Words and photographs KAREN ANAND
Food writer,
entrepreneur
and gourmet,
Karen Anand
has journeyed
across
the world
writing about
gastronomy.
Give fine dining a miss and hit the hawker stalls to savour the authentic
flavours of the Malaysian capital
hree days in Kuala
Lumpur sounds like
the start of a Hemingway
novel. It is a humid,
crowded city, overrun by buildings,
yovers and malls. I visited it last
several years ago, when we came as
a family to watch the Formula 1 at
Sepang. One thing that has remained
constant despite all the change is the
food Kuala Lumpur is all about great
food, whether its street food, restaurant
food or casual dining. Today, the city
rivals Singapore as the culinary capital
of Asia.
I check into the newly refurbished
Le Meridien (lemeridienkualalumpur.
com) right opposite the Sentral railway
station, which is a convenient way to
connect to the airport and much better
than taking a taxi. The lobby area of
the hotel is now known as the Hub.
Le Meridien follows a philosophy
of creating a community of creative
people and cultural innovators to
produce new artistic projects, which
includes cuisine and wine in addition
to theatre and art. This initiative,
known as the LM100, is helmed by
Jrme Sans, a French art curator who
serves as the Meridiens global cultural
curator. As a result, the Meridien in
Kuala Lumpur is an arty space with a
magnicent chocolate lounge known as
Art Cacao, a bar and a gastro pub that
replaces the traditional cofee shop. It
is an exciting idea and those interested
in the new frontiers of hospitality will
embrace the change.
In my room upstairs, instead of
the boring fruit basket or chocolates
wrapped in cling lm, there are hand-
broken bars of chocolate studded with
whole nuts such as macadamia and
hazelnuts on one day and fresh fruit on
an old-fashioned
weighing scale,
the next. At
Gastro Sentral,
the hotels gastro pub, executive chef
Antoine brings some real home style
French specialities to KL at breakfast,
apart from croissants, he also dishes
out some excellent local specialities
such as nasi lemak. Often called the
national dish of Malaysia, nasi lemak
is in fact a breakfast dish. It is made
of rice cooked in coconut milk and
pandan leaves, served with sambal,
anchovies and peanuts a bit of a
shy mouthful in the morning but
undoubtedly delicious.
To discover the variety of Kuala
Lumpurs culinary oferings in a single
place, we head to Lot 10 Hutong food
court (50 Jalan Sultan Ismail; Tel: +603
2143 6092), located in the basement
of a busy and fashionable stretch of
Bukit Bintang. Lot 10 is diferent
because it serves pork, which a lot of
other Muslimfood courts dont. In
fact, Lot 10 is Malaysias rst non-
halal food court. It brings together
hawker stalls from all over the country
in one charming, Chinese teahouse
ambience. In addition, it is
air-conditioned
a huge plus
in this city. You
can nd all of
KLs favourite
dishes here roti
canai and roti i jala
(lacy pancakes);
chicken curry and
Asam laksa; beef
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In my room upstairs, instead of the boring
fruit basket or chocolates wrapped in cling
lm, there are hand-broken bars of chocolate
studded with whole nuts such as macadamia
and hazelnuts on one day and fresh fruit on
an old-fashioned weighing scale, the next.
eat away
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RRootii jjjallaa wwwitth cchickkenn
cuurry
Se S rves e 4 Q Q1 1 hourrr QMODERATELY
EASY
Re R ci i ci ci ci cipe courtes esy yy CHEF ZUB U IR
MO MM HA AMMED ZAIN, NNN Le Me M ridi d en,
Kual al a a Lu ump m urr u
THE ROTI JJALLAAA
eggs 2
water 650ml r
coconut milk 100 00 000ml k
turm r eric pow wde de der 2g r
saaalt lt lt 5g
wheat flour 333550g r
oil 100 000ml m
THE E CH CC ICKE K N CURR R Y
palm oil 4 4tbsp
shallots 40g 0
ga ga g rlicc cloveees 1 tbssp, slice cc d
ro o ro root o ginngerrrr 1 tbsp, peeeled, sliced and r
juulien nned
ci cinn nnnamon stickks 22
ca c rd rdam amom 5-6
cl cl cl c ov ov ov ves eee 5-66
star ar ar ar aaaani ni nise s 111
curry leav av aves es es 10 10 10-12
onion paste 11 1///2222 tb tb tb bsp sp s
garlic paste 1 11/2 tbsspppp
ginggggger pppaste 1 tbsppp
curry powder 1 tbsp r
turm rmmericcc ppowde de der r 1 ts ssppp
chilli ppowder 1 tsp r
wa wa wa w te te te terrr 2222 cups r
coconut milk 150ml
po p taaaatoes 100g, cubed
bonelesss chicken 500g,
cubed
carr rr ots 100g, cubed
salt annd pepper to taste r
QHee H at aa oil in a pa p nn
and saut the sh hallots,
sliced garli llic cloves, root
ginger, cinnnamon stick kkks,
cardamom, cloves, star
anise and curry leaves
until aromatic i . Stttir in
the on on nion,,, garlic an aa d
ginger pas as aste ees an aa d dd cooook ok kk
fo f r an an a ot ot otheer 5 5mi minu n te eees. sss
Ad dd in curry pppowwdeer,
turmeric aand chi h lli powder and mix
well. Cook ooon me m di d ummm heat fo ff r about
10 minutes and pppour in the water. wwa e w e ww
Co CC ntinuee ttto oo bo b il, turn to medium d m rn rn to tu u
he hh at and add in the coconut milk. nn th th n
Co C nt nntin i ue uuu to simmmm m er for rrrr aaanother o si sim
5 mi mi mmnuutes. Whiiiiile the curry is cookinng, WW
start prrrrep ee aring the roti i jal a a. AAdd the e arr
potato t cccub bbes s to the cuurry, bbes es
cook for a ffewww minnut ut uutes e anddd e ffew ew
addd d the e ch hiccke kk n. Covver ee ke ken. n
the pan an annd co c ntinue ue ue ue nt tin inue ue
si s mmerring until potato ttt
and ch c icken ar a e halfwa w y
cooked. Ad Ad A ddd thhhe ca arrot t
cuuubes annd d se se seas ason oo well.
Allow wwto sssim immer un uuntil the
chicckeenn an aaa d potatoes are
fully cooked. Re R moove
from heat and se ss rve.
QTo make the ro oooti tt jala,
take a deep bowl aand ndd
add eggs, water, coc o onuttt
milk and turme mm ric c
powder and whi hh sk lighttly ll . Mix
in the our little by little so
th th th hat aa there are no lumpps. Heeeeatt
a ta awa w andd grease with oil. Fi FF ll a
pi pipi pp ng ng ng baggg with batter and using n
a circcul uu ar motion, makkke th t in and
lacey y paaanc nc nn akes ee . Cook o until set
on oo one side ee on on only and serve with
chiccckennn cu uuurr rrrry.
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In this section
7 7KKoldo Royos Ko
seaf eafood paella eafo
maste terclass ster p 142
7Homemade de de
jackfruit chutn tney utne
p 146
7Rohan Jelkie on
new world wines
p 147
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WOK
We know youve been struggling
for years to replicate the avours
of restaurant-style Chinese food.
The secret lies in the wok and no
matter how much you try with a
kadhai youre probably never going i
to get the same avour. So invest
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The carbon steel body is beaten
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Try Dia available at cookware
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Smart ways to improve your kitchen skills
Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photograph GARETH MORGANS
COOK LIKE A PRO
masterclass
Seafood paella
Serves 4 Q 45 minutes
Q MODERATELY EASY
sea bass 200g, deboned and skinned
squid 200g, cleaned and skinned
prawns 200g
olive oil 2 tbsp
romano flat green beans or French
beans a handful, chopped
saffron 5g
tomatoes 2, peeled and pured
sweet paprika 1 tbsp (try Keya
bomba rice 400g, boiled (try De Cecco
fish broth 1.5l
salt to season
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KOLDO ROYOS
Masterclass
Michelin-starred chef Koldo Royo from Koldo Royo in Spain makes his
signature step-by-step seafood paella
Recipe KOLDO ROYO Photographs ARVIND CHENJI
masterclass
chef skills
Preheat the oven to 250CCut the sh
into large chunks.
Heat a large pan and and coat it with a
generous amount of olive oil. Add the
garlic and lightly saut.
Finally, add the prawns and toss all
the seafood together for a minute or
until the prawns turn pink.
Place the squid at on the chopping
board and cut into cubes.
Toss in the sh and fry for a minute.
Add some of the beans and toss them in
with the garlic and seafood.
Clean the prawns and devein them. Then
chop off the tail. You could use this to
make your batch of fresh sh stock.
Add in the squid and fry for another
minute.
Add the saffron strands into the pan.
Evenly distribute the strands and toss
them together.
1
4
7
2
5
8
3
6
9
masterclass
chef skills
Now add the tomato pure.
Then add a bit of the sh broth to the
pan and allow it to cook for 2 minutes.
Note that the ratio of rice and broth
should be 4:1.
Check if the rice has absorbed the broth.
Sprinkle over the sweet paprika and
thoroughly coat all the seafood in the
tomato and paprika sauce.
Season with salt to taste. If the sh stock
already has a bit of salt, be careful about
over salting the paella.
Once it has, put it in the oven and lower
the temperature to 180C. Leave the
paella in the oven for about 10 minutes.
Add rice to the pan and mix to coat the
rice with the sauce.
Bring it to a boil, mix and allow it to cook
for 5-10 minutes until the paella gets a
creamy consistency. Remove any of the
surfacing starch with the spoon.
Check if the rice has absorbed all the
liquid. Remove from the oven and allow
it to stand for 5 minutes. Garnish with a
lemon slice and serve immediately.
10
13
16
11
14
17
12
15
18
masterclass
diy
Jackfruit chutney
This simple chutney uses all the
trimmings of the jackfruit which
otherwise would have been wasted.
Enjoy it with cutlets, rolls, chips or just
steamed rice, or use it as a spread for
gourmet sandwiches with chicken or
pork.
raw jackfruit 100g, peeled and cubed,
retain the seeds, trimmings or leftovers
urad dal 1 tbsp
red chillies 5-6, dried
desiccated coconut 1 tbsp
asafoetida (hing) a pinch
red chilli powder 1 tsp
salt to taste
tamarind 1 tbsp
QBoil the jackfruit with the seeds in a
pressure cooker till tender, one whistle
should be enough.
QDry roast the urad dal and red chillies
in a non-stick pan until toasted. Put the
cooked jackfruit, urad dal, red chillies,
coconut, asafoetida, chilli powder, salt
and tamarind in a blender. Add a little
water and blend to a smooth chutney.
Serve with steamed rice.
Give the versatile jackfruit a sweet and sour kick with this pucker-worthy chutney
Recipe AMIT PAMNANI Photograph PRATEEKSH MEHRA
T
he term New World
refers to those countries
that didnt have a
tradition of wine making
and have taken to it only in the last few
centuries. By and large, these are non-
European countries such as the United
States, Canada, Chile, South Africa,
Australia, New Zealand and India.
Unlike Old World wines that take
their names from the region that they
come from, New World wines boldly
carry the name of the grape varietals
used to produce them. Hence, they are
also sometimes called varietal wines.
Firstly, irrespective of the producer,
area or year, the name of the grape
would appear prominently on the label
in most cases. Second, the vintage year
is not considered as important as with
Old World wines. Wines from countries
like Australia, New Zealand or the
United Sates generally use just one or
two grapes to create a wine. In contrast,
those from traditional wine-producing
areas such as Chateaneuf-du-Pape
in France can have up to 13 grape
varietals in a single wine!
The most striking diference
between wines from both worlds is
that New World wine areas typically lie
in warmer climatic belts than most of
mainland Europe. This means that the
vines get ample exposure to sunlight
and thereby bear fruit that have higher
sugar levels, which results in fuller-
bodied wines with marginally higher
levels of alcohol. Most New World wine
makers also retain their fruity character,
making them more approachable to
an inexperienced palate. In a nutshell,
New World wines ofer a great deal of
variety to suit diferent taste proles,
which has cemented their popularity.
Try the big bold flavours of New World wines
10-MINUTE WINE GUIDE
New World wines
Beringer Estate Sauvignon Blanc,
2009, USA (` 2,595, available at
Juben Wines, Mumbai)
A white wine with very light colour
and wonderful aromas of guava,
lemongrass and grapefruit. Bright and
lively, this one is easy to drink.
Nederburg Wine Masters
Reserve Shiraz, 2009, South
Africa (` 1,655, available at Godrej
Natures Basket outlets across the
country)
This rich and full-bodied Shiraz has
aromas of ripe plum, berries and oak
spice with a hint of cigars.
Farmingham Marlborough Classic
Riesling, 2009, New Zealand
(` 3,250, available at House of Spirits,
Select Citywalk, Delhi)
Pale gold with hints of green, this wine
has citrusy and oral aromas with a
touch of minerality. It has a lovely, soft
feel in the mouth and a lengthy nish.
Domaines Baron de Rothschild Los
Vascos Grand Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon, 2008, Chile (` 2,860,
available at Juben Wines, Mumbai)
This wine is well structured and
balanced on the palate. It has notes of
cedar, tobacco, cinnamon, white pepper
and bitter chocolate.
Man Vintners Chardonnay, 2011,
South Africa (` 1,800, available at
Ganpati Wines, Gurgaon)
A refreshing Chardonnay made with a
touch of oak for added complexity, it
boasts of notes of melon and tropical
fruit, and complements a wide range
of foods.
Yering Station, Yarra Valley Pinot
Noir, 2009, Australia (` 3,750,
available at Sartaj Wines, Delhi)
This red has bright berry avours with
aromatic notes of vanilla and a soft,
earthy complexity. Medium-bodied
with delicate tannins, this is a great
red to drink!
Bird in Hand Sparkling Pinot Noir,
Australia (` 3,190, available at House
of Spirits, Select Citywalk, Delhi)
This is a vibrant, deep ruby-coloured
sparkling wine with great aromas and
avours of strawberry and cherry. The
fruity sweetness is balanced by a crisp
and lively nish.
Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi
Moscato, 2009, USA (` 1,440,
available at Ashok Gulrajanis wine
store, Jangpura Market, Delhi)
This sweet wine has heady oral and
citrus aromas on the nose, and a lively
acidity that balances the residual
sugars and adds a sparkle to the wine.

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.
Rohan Jelkie is
Senior Manager
Beverage Education
& Training at
Tulleeho!, Indias
premier beverage
consultancy
organisation. Hes
an avid traveller
and a trained wines
and spirits educator
with experience in
running
programmes in
India, Sri Lanka and
the Middle East.
STARTERS, SNACKS AND SOUPS
7777106 Baked camembert
with garlic toasts
7777106 Beef and coriander
noodle soup
777765 Carrot and
hummus roll-ups
777768 Cobb salad with
turkey and avocado
7777106 Garlicky bean salad
with chorizo
777753 Green club
sandwich
777765 Hot smoked salmon
wrap
777774 Jackfruit kebabs
7777103 Minestrone in
minutes
777754 Mock mayo
sandwich
7777103 Mozzarella and salami
ciabatta
777784 Pea, feta and
quinoa spring rolls
with roast tomato
nam prik
777765 Prawn cocktail rolls
777780 Quinoa and courgette
salad
7777105 Red rice salad with
feta and pine nuts
7777126 Roast beetroot
salad with goats
cheese
777764 Roast pumpkin,
blue cheese and sage
tart
777782 Roasted tomato,
halloumi and quinoa
salad
7777102 Salmon and ginger
sh cakes
7777123 Seafood broth
7777105 Smoky tomato soup
7777105 Spiced sweet potato
salad with crisp
noodles
777758 Spicy butter bean
soup
777770 Spicy chicken,
mango and jalapeo
salad
777773 Sweet and spicy
apple and jackfruit
salad
MAINS
Egg
7777102 Asian prawn
omelette
777790 Focaccia with egg
white frittata, spinach,
asparagus and
mozzarella
7777104 Omelette Arnold
Bennett
777760 Roasted red pepper
hash with fried eggs
7777104 Spanish pepper and
potato tortilla
7777106 Spicy egg wraps
7777106 Spinach tortilla
wedges
Meat
777730 Bloody mary
bolognese
7777128 Lamb, harissa and
777762 Rigatoni al forno
7777104 Sausage and red
cabbage one-pot
777790 Tamarind ginger beef
scaloppina, wasabi
mayo, spring onion
slaw white baguette
Poultry
777730 Chicken arrabbiata
777792 Chicken parmigiana
ciabatta with rocket
and marinated
tomatoes
777758 Peking-style chicken
with spring onion
stir-fry
7777104 Quick chicken
chasseur
7777140 Roti jala with
chicken curry
7777106 Spicy chicken rice
7777102 Thai coconut chicken
Fish & seafood
7777128 Barbecued king
prawns
7777130 Beer battered sh
7777102 Curry-crusted sh
777788 Garlicky prawns, sweet
chilli mayo and red
cabbage slaw on a
hot dog bun
777768 Mackerel, beetroot
and cucumber
tartine
777104 Prawn and spinach
ramen noodles
777755 Prawn stew
777762 Quick prawn gumbo
777766 Rice noodles with
prawn, edamame
and grapefruit
7777142 Seafood paella
7777103 Smoked salmon with
Asian dressing
7777104 Spaghetti with crab,
cherry tomatoes and
basil
7777103 Steamed sh with
lemon, ginger and
chilli
Vegetarian
777776 Baked jackfruit
stroganoff pie
777770 Crisp tofu with ginger
and chilli
777782 Feta and pepper
quinoa balls
7784 Fruit and pumpkin
quinoa
777730 Gnocchi with creamy
tomato and spinach
sauce
7777105 Gnocchi with lemon
and chive pesto
777788 Hip street sandwich
777730 Instant deli pizza
777700 Jackfruit biryani
777774 Jackfruit gnocchi
with fresh tomato
and mozzarella sauce
777778 Linguine with cherry
tomatoes and goats
cheese
777783 Mushroom and
thyme risotto
777792 Open-faced avocado,
pickled red onion,
pickled cucumber,
kiwifruit and blue
cheese crumble
7777105 Pappardelle with
lemon and sage
mushrooms
7777103 Pesto and parmesan
spaghetti
7777102 Rice noodles with
sundried tomatoes,
parmesan and basil
777760 Roasted cauliower
with barley and herbs
777776 Thai-style stir fry
jackfruit
SIDES & SAUCES
7777130 Aioli
777728 Avla chutney
777728 Beetroot chutney
777788 Chilli cilantro pesto
777728 Dry coconut and garlic
chutney
777792 Fig and shallot
marmalade
777788 Garlicky herbal
marinade
7777146 Jackfruit chutney
777784 Nam prik
777728 Papad chutney
777728 Peanut chutney
777728 Raw mango chutney
DESSERTS, BREAKFASTS AND
BAKING
777798 Baked pears with
amaretti
7777131 Lamingtons
777711 Orange rind fruitcake
777796 Sgroppino
7777100 Spiced glazed
pineapple with
cinnamon whipped
cream
777798 White chocolate and
raspberry pots
JAIN
7777102 Crunchy cauliower
cheese
7777105 Griddled hallomui with
spiced couscous
777778 Jackfruit kul
7777103 Lemon curd and
yoghurt fool
777796 Mango and
passionfruit fool
777795 Pears with speedy
choc sauce
777796 Rosewater and
pistachio kul with
griddled mangoes
DRINKS
777756 Chilli Bloody Mary
777756 Mango sticky rice
777734 Missionarys Downfall
777756 Tangerine lemon
777756 Thai tang mou
777756 Tom yam siam
Recipe index7 VEGETARIAN 7READY UNDER 30 MINUTES 7LOW FAT
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88
Reliance Fresh
Crystal Paradise Mall, DuttaJi

Salavi Road, Off Veera Desai Road,
Opposite Janaki Centre, Link Road,
Andheri (W)
Tel: +91 22 26743750
Framroze Court, Phalke Road,

Dadar (E)
Tel: +91 22 24155017
Sant
Shop Number 1, Sahina
Apartments, Pali Market,
Bandra (W)
Tel: +91 22 40060020
Spencers HyperMarket
1406A/28A, Malad (W)
Tel: +91 22 42686130
Tutto Bene Delicatessen
Spencers Hyper Market,
Ground Floor, Located in
Inorbit Mall, Malad (W)
Tel: +91 9823485988
PUNE
Dorabjee & Co Pvt Ltd
B-1, Moledina Road, Camp Cantonment
Tel: +91 20 26052883
Natures Basket
Mansur Ali Tower,

3, Galaxy Society,
Max Mueller Lane,
Near AXIS Bank,
Dhole Patil Road
Tel: +91 20 26160540
Shop No. 155/1A, Kumar Crystal

Aundh
Tel: +91 20 25889530
Providore
GF 104, Anand Park, Baner
Road, Aundh
Tel: +91 20 65601551
Shop No 1, Princeton Flair,
Lane No 8, Koregaon Park
Tel: +91 20 66077193
G 14 Sacred World Mall, Wanowrie
Tel: +91 20 26806933

Gourmet Websites
Delicious Now
www.deliciousnow.com
Farm2kitchen
www.farm2kitchen.com
Foodesto
www.foodesto.com
Foodzig
www.foodzig.com
Gourmet Company
www.gourmetco.in
Houseproud
www.houseproud.in
Local Banya
www.localbanya.com
Olive Tree Trading
www.olivetreetrading.com
Pesca Fresh
www.pescafresh.com
Zansaar
www.zansaar.com
Gourmet Gallery
27/9C, Chandi Ghosh Road,
Regent Park
Tel: +91 33 23818510
MUMBAI
Country of Origin
Maneesha Building, 69/A, Napean Sea
Road, Malabar Hill
Tel: +91 22 23642221
Dolce Vita
Ground Floor, Grand Galleria, High
Street Phoenix, Phoenix Mills,
Lower Parel
Tel: +91 22 24964307
Food Bazaar
Innity Mall, Raheja Classic, New Link
Road, Andheri (W)
Tel: +91 22 67583090
Foodhall
Palladium, High Street Phoenix,
Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel
Tel: +91 22 30264581
Gourmet West
Westside, Army and Navy Building,
148 M.G. Road, Kala Ghoda
Tel: +91 22 66360499
Hypercity
Ground Floor, Malad (W)
Tel: +91 22 40501300
Lallu & brothers
Shop no 1&2, Pali Market,
Pali Hill Road, Pali Hill,
Bandra (W)
Tel: +91 22 26409295
Natures Basket
227, Samarth Vaibhav Building,

Opposite Tarapur Towers, Adarsh
Nagar, Lokhandwala, Andheri (W)
Tel: +91 22 26300766
Shop No 4, BG-India , Hiranandani

Gardens, Powai
Tel: +91 22 25707706
2-5 Parul Apartment, Juhu Tara

Road, Juhu
Tel: +91 22 26117893
133, Hill Road, Bandra (W)

Tel: +91 22 26425050
Opp. Mahalaxmi Temple ,

Warden Road, Mahalaxmi
Tel: +91 22 23526775
Patel stores
Near Mehboob Studio,
Krishnachandra Marg, Bandra (W)
Tel: +91 22 26558909
Ratna stores
Haware Parekh, Sion-Trombay Road,
Opposite Union Park, Chembur
Tel: +91 22 25203389
Regal Plus
1, Lourdes Haven,
10/A, Pali Naka,
Bandra (W)
Tel: + 91 22 26041204/ 26041208/
26465070
AHMEDABAD
Organic Haus
Oriental House, S V Kinariwala Road,
Law Garden
Tel: +91 79 26445593
BENGALURU
Foodhall
MG Mall, Trinity
Usoor
Foodworld Gourmet
301, Gottigere village, Uttarahalli
village, Bannerghatta Main Road
Tel: +91 80 32466586
Gourmet Food World
No 88, Shariff Bhatia Towers,
MG Road
Tel: +91 80 41474789
Natures Basket
#755, 80 Feet Road, 4th Block, Next
to Costa Coffee, Koramangala
Tel: +91 80 41317401
Sorbet The gourmet food store
No 287, Varthur Road,
Siddapura, Whiteeld
Tel: +91 80 28543245

CHENNAI
Amma Nana
Chamiers Road, opp Park Sheraton
Hotel, Nandanam
Tel: +91 44 24350596
Mercado
No 64, Rukmani Road, Kalakshetra
Colony, Besant Nagar
Tel: +91 44 28173965
Nuts n Spices
New no. 75, Mahatma Gandhi Road,
Nungambakkam
Tel: +91 44 28268180, 42039351
HYDERABAD
Natures Basket
Urmila Towers, Road No. 10,
Opp. Rainbow Hospital, Banjara Hills
Tel: +91 40 23355399
NEW DELHI
A- Mart
A-1, Mahipalpur Extension, NH-8
Tel: +91 11 26789999
Ahuja Vegetable Store
Shop no.- 37, INA Market
Tel: +91 11 24644116
Allied Fruits and Florists
58-B, Khan Market, Lodhi Road
Tel: +91 11 24642509
Ashok General Store
113, Main Market, Opposite Dilli Haat,
INA Market
Tel: +91 11 24617561
Dubden Green
4-A, Near Electric Sub Station,
Shahpur Jat
Tel: +91 11 32905310,
+91 9810131343
Flanders Dairy The Cheese Ball
31 Mehr Chand Market, Lodhi Road
Tel: +91 11 24653789
Fortune Gourmet
144/9, Ground Floor, Kishangarh,
Vasant Kunj
Tel: +91 11 65642270/ 9868899956
Gogias
280, Main road, INA Market
Tel: +91 11 24624809/ 24644618
INA Market
Aurobindo Marg, INA Colony, Opposite
Dilli Haat
Le Marche
58, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar,
Near Priya Cinema
Tel: +91 11 43232100/41669111
Masters Bakers
G-33, Usha Chambers, Community
Centre, Ashok Vihar
Tel: +91 11 27419061/ 27430734
Modern Bazaar
18-B, Community Centre, Basant Lok,
Vasant Vihar
Tel: +91 11 41669777
Natures Basket
Ground oor, D /15,
Between BP Petrol Pump
and Defence Colony. Flyover
Tel: +91 11 46698777
46, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar,

Ground oor & basement
Tel: +91 11 40571919
Palkit Impex
C-82, Basement, Shivalik, Malviya
Nagar. Tel: +91 11 26673437
Passion Cheese
Select Citywalk Mall,
District Centre, Saket
Tel: +91 11 40599916
Pigpo
9 Jor Bagh Market
Tel: +91 11 24611723/ 24626930
Steak House
13/8 Jor Bagh Market
Tel: +91 11 24611008/ 24611129
The French Farmer
Tel: Call Roger Langbour
+91 9810166196, +91 11 26359701
Yamato Ya The Japanese Store
B-6/9, Safdarjung Enclave,
Near Deer Park
Tel: +91 11 41650164
GURGAON
Kims Mart
DT Mega Mall, LG 36, Gurgaon
Tel: +91 124 2562189
Natures Basket
S-201, 2nd Floor, Ambience Mall,
Ambience Island, NH-8
Tel: +91 124 4665753
KOLKATA
Afraa Deli
City Centre, Salt Lake
Tel: +91 33 23581111
Where to find everything from kaffir lime to quinoa Shop talk
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mmail.
e
dian resident and
mail
G
F
spotlight
monica dogra
Monica Dogra
What is your earliest food memory?
I remember being about four years old,
coming home from kindergarten, and
my mother saying shed make me a
special soft drink that would blow my
mind. It denitely did. Later on, I found
out that it was milk, shaken on ice, with
a spoonful of sugar.
How often do you cook?
I hardly ever cook these days. If I have
a spare minute, I usually make things
like hummus, fresh salads, soups
and things that make my system feel
strong. To me, cooking is another form
of art and meditation.
Most prized kitchen tool you own?
Id have to say its my Bialetti espresso
maker. I collect coffee beans from
around the world on my travels. I grind
them at home and make the best coffee
in town. I would put my money on it!
Whats your cooking style relaxed
and easy or kitchen Nazi?
Totally relaxed and easy. I make a
mess when I cook its like Jackson
Pollock hit my kitchen. I dont like it
when people tell me what to do when
Im cooking though. So I like not to be
bothered and left to my own devices.
Whats the one dish youll never
touch?
Well, I dont eat meat. I was once
offered reindeer heart while travelling
in Norway, and it made my heart ache.
Your dream party guest list includes
Id love to cook for Jamie Oliver. I joke
with friends that hes my husband. Of
course, hes married and has kids. That
only adds to why I love him so much.
Maybe Id love to cook for his family.
If you had to cook a romantic meal,
what would be on the menu?
A romantic meal would be fully Italian,
with Lambrusco wine. Id make a pasta
with a fresh cream sauce, and an
arrabiata. Maybe a fresh basil pesto and
plenty of fresh bread. Sage or garlic
buttered bread perhaps.
Your most beloved restaurant?
The most epic meal Ive ever had would
have to be at La Giostra in Florence. My
sister and I visited this Michelin-starred
restaurant. The owner is an elderly
gentleman who comes to the table to
have a chat with you, and serves you
with a ourish of his hand. It is truly
a bastion for those seeking a mind-
blowing culinary experience.
If you had to spend a day with any
one chef, who would it be?
Probably my mamiji in Jammu. She
makes the most delectable Kashmiri
Brahmin, vegetarian food. Thats the
kind of cooking I enjoy.
Pet peeve in a restaurant?
Saying one thing on the menu, and
serving something else. That tends to
be a big problem in India.
If you had to open a restaurant,
what kind of place would it be?
Id probably open an art caf with
only ten things on the menu. It
would be minimalistic, like an
extension of home.
Your idea of comfort food
Tomato soup and grilled cheese.

What is your signature dish?
Probably a bread-fried goats cheese,
g and arugula salad.
Your favourite food moment from
a movie or book?
I love it when Aamir (Khan) makes
eggs for dinner in Dhobi Ghat. Its
just like Ive seen so many careless
artist-types live in Mumbai eating
eggs for every meal.
Monica Dogra is a musician, actress and indie artiste. Last seen
in Kiran Raos Dhobi Ghat, Dogra hosts the Cannes Lion award-
winning travelogue and music show, The Dewarists. David, her latest
Bollywood release hit the screen in February while Fireflies is due
later this year. Heres Dogra unplugged on matters of the palate
I make a
mess when
I cook its
like Jackson
Pollock hit
my kitchen.
I dont like it
when people
tell me what
to do when
Im cooking
and like
to be left
to my own
devices
My life on a plate
Theres no better comfort food
than tomato soup with grilled
cheese for Monica Dogra

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APRIL 2013

mself as a market researcher by profession and foodie by

igion. He writes about his food experiences on his blog,

. In this issue, Karmakar takes you on a journey d

luxe in Off the Eaten Track on

documentary lm researcher based in Mumbai. He counts

hotels and non-prot organisations among his clients. Valsa

considers food and adventure as his particular weaknesses

and specialises in them. He shot the photographs of Indian

104 BBC GoodFood APRIL 2013

013 BBC GoodFood 105

Crystal Paradise Mall, DuttaJi

Framroze Court, Phalke Road,

Mansur Ali Tower,

Shop No. 155/1A, Kumar Crystal

227, Samarth Vaibhav Building,

Shop No 4, BG-India , Hiranandani

2-5 Parul Apartment, Juhu Tara

133, Hill Road, Bandra (W)

Opp. Mahalaxmi Temple ,

46, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar,

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