Guide to Living in Berlin

Guide to living in Berlin

Steffen Blaese

Copyright © 2017 by Steffen Blaese. All Rights Reserved.

Cover Image © by christophkadur

This ebook is licensed for your personal enjoyment only. This ebook may not be re-sold or given away to other people. If you would like to share this book with another person, please purchase an additional copy for each person you share it with. If you’re reading this book and did not purchase it, or it was not purchased for your use only, then you should return to Smashwords.com and purchase your own copy. Thank you for respecting the hard work of this author.

Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: While I have used my best efforts in preparing this book, I make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this book and specifically disclaim any implied warranties of merchant ability or fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended by sales representatives or written sales materials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for your situation. You should consult with a professional where appropriate. Liability claims relating to material or non-material damage caused by the use or non-use of the information provided or by the use of erroneous and incomplete information are excluded.

If you think this book is missing something or you find mistakes of any kind, or you think something should be added, or you've got a question, please contact me via my website.

SteffenBlaese.com

Table of Contents

Prologue: Why you must love-hate Berlin

Build on a swamp – a brief history of Berlin, briefly

Memorials and museums

The Berlin Wall

Stasi-Zentrale

Concentration camp Sachsenhausen

How Berliners are like – local obsessions

New rules of good manners

OSTALGIA – romanticizing the GDR

Sport

Drinking

Love of animals

Migrants and the city

Hostility towards entrepreneurs and hipsters

Germans and punctuality

Let's talk about the weather

The basic political mood: failed city Berlin

Atheist capital of Europe

Dining like a local

Sex and the city

The capital of loneliness

Berlin is pretty big

Art and culture

The administrative set-up

Support for people with disabilities

Safety

Sexual harassment: No means no!

Drug policy

Prostitution

Internet hotspots

Mobile communication

International calls

Green, greener, greenest – Recycling

Insurances

Personal liability (Privathaftpflicht)

Legal expense insurance (Rechtsschutzversicherung)

Household contents

Accident and disability (Unfallversicherung)

Occupational disability insurance (Berufsunfähigkeitsversicherung)

Life insurance (Lebensversicherung)

Statutory Social Insurance (Gesetzliche Sozialversicherung)

Health care system

Nursing care insurance (Pflegeversicherung)

Mini-jobs

Health card

Switching from private to public health insurance

Help for people without health insurance

Visiting the doctor

Visiting the dentist

Pharmacies and medicines

Staying fit

Vaccinations

Visa regulations

How to get a visa

Permission for permanent residence in the EU

Naturalization in Germany

Roads to Berlin

Airports

Arriving by car

Arriving by train

Arriving by bus

Getting around in Berlin

Mind the gap – public transportation

Taxis

Cars

Bicycles

Velotaxis

The costs of living

Property prices and rents

Where to live – Berlin’s villages

Neighborhoods

Buying a property

Rent or buy?

Standard purchases (Standardkauf)

Heritable building right (Erbbaurecht)

Life annuity model (Kauf auf Leibrente)

Buying property from a private seller: What buyers should ask for?

Energy certificate (Energieausweis)

Land certificate (Grundbuchauszug)

Find a property

Do you want to build it yourself?

Moves (international, within the country and city)

Pet transportation

Moving/packing Boxes

Relocation signs (Umzugsschilder)

How to find an apartment

Portals and search engines

Shared flats (Wohngemeinschaften)

Furnished apartments

Short-term accommodation

Hire a real estate agent

Apartment viewing

Schufa and other proof of creditworthiness

What is a Mietkaution (deposit)?

WBS Sozialwohnungen (social housing)

Housing benefit (Wohngeld)

Rent and tenancy law (Mietrecht)

After moving in

Furniture

Telephone, Internet and cable connection

Warning about illegal downloads

Electricity, gas and water

Broadcasting fees (Rundfunkgebühren)

Forwarding order (Nachsendeauftrag)

How to register with the authorities

Marriage and family

Wedding (Hochzeit)

Pregnancy and birth

Abortion

Financial aid before and after birth

Registering your baby's birth and applying for birth certificate

Berlin's educational system at a glance

Mysteries of the Berlin Kita

Elementary school (Grundschule)

Integrated Secondary School (Integrierte Sekundarschule, ISS)

Gymnasium (High School, Grammar School)

Interdenominational school (Gemeinschaftsschule)

Schools for children with special needs (Schulen mit sonderpädagogischem Förderschwerpunkt, Förderschule)

Oberstufenzentrum (OSZ)

Finding the right school

Studying in Berlin

Vocational training (Berufsausbildung)

The key to success: speaking German

Lifelong learning (Erwachsenenbildung)

Working in Berlin

Wages and taxes (Einkommen & Steuern)

The job market

Find a proper job

Starting a business

Overview of German business forms

Franchising as an alternative

Company succession as an alternative

Getting support

Funding and financing

Entrepreneurial education

Events

National and international incubators and accelerators

Craftsmen

How to start freelancing

Finding freelance jobs

Coworking spaces

Technology centers in Berlin (selection)

Taxes for entrepreneurs and businesses

VAT or input tax (Umsatzsteuer or Vorsteuer)

Income tax (Einkommensteuer)

Trade tax (Gewerbesteuer)

Taxes for partnerships (Personengesellschaft)

Taxes on corporations

Taxes for freelancers

Taxes on the employment of workers

Tax advisor

Getting a bank account

What is an EC card (girocard)?

Credit cards (Kreditkarten)

Useful resources

Culture and art

Newspapers and magazines

Radio

General interest

Help for newcomers

Expat blogs

Legal help

Literature

Movies and shows

Prologue: Why you must love-hate Berlin

»All free men, wherever they may live, are citizens of Berlin, and, therefore, as a free man, I take pride in the words: Ich bin ein Berliner.« President John F. Kennedy, at Schöneberger Rathaus (Town Hall), June 26 1963

If you’re reading this book, it must mean that you’re considering moving to Berlin: congratulations! Your friends probably went to New York, Paris or London. Berlin is definitely the most exciting city in Germany. However, it isn't easy to explain why Berlin has been one of the most popular cities in the world for some time now. The city is not exactly a beauty. You won't see anything like the majestic cathedrals of Rome, the marvelous palaces of Paris, or the breathtaking skyscrapers of New York. There is nothing such spectacular. Berlin is rather of a »not reversible ugliness, but an ugliness of great character.« So the writer Peter Schneider put it. It is the city's inner values, the imperfection and contrasts that lend it its charisma. Berlin is adventurous and you’ll experience freedom like you’ve never had. You’ll probably wish you would have made the decision to live in Berlin a lot sooner.

I've been living in Berlin for over forty years now. My parents brought me here. As a child, I enjoyed a lot of freedom and spent much time on the courtyards in the old working-class district Prenzlauer Berg. East Berlin can be described in one word: gray. But in fall 1989, the sun came out. On the 8th of October 1989, one day after the festivities of the 40th birthday of the GDR, a friend of mine picked me up. We went to Alexanderplatz and took part in the first free demonstrations of our life. I was 13 years old and walked along without giving it much thought. But I will be always grateful to have been there. Thousands of Berliners demanded freedom with one voice: »Wir sind das Volk!« – »We are the people!« The country woke up from the agony of socialism. A few weeks later the inhuman regime collapsed and was swept away.

I spent my teenager years in the united city and enjoyed the seductive freedom and the sassy chaos. Berlin was on its course to become the vibrant, yet relaxed city, which it is today. The Berlin of my childhood does not exist anymore, nor the Berlin of the 1990s. When I remember the time after the fall of the Wall, I am amazed at the pace of transformation. Places which no one considered interesting are now centers of urban life. Think of Neukölln or Wedding.

It is almost a cliché to quote the former mayor of Berlin, Klaus Wowereit, who said: »Berlin is poor, but sexy.« These things have also changed: Berlin is more expensive now. But it remains an awesome place to live. It continues to have a non-conformist, open-minded attitude. It is still sexy, and many people seem to think so too.

One of the biggest changes in recent years is the much more international atmosphere. There is a great variety of languages in the cafés, on the street, in the buses and trains. All these people are bringing their traditions and culture to the new Berlin. Over a third of Berlin's population has foreign roots. Berlin is the city in Germany where foreigners feel most welcome. There is also a very large student population from all over the world.

Berlin is a multicultural metropolis with the down-to-earth charm of an international village. You don’t suffer the big city stress. Berlin can be an easy going place. It does not have the large crowds streaming into the city center every morning from the suburbs. This is a legacy of its history, when West Berlin was surrounded by a wall.

There are countless museums, theaters, and galleries. Although the city is in debts with breathtaking 60 billion Euros, it enjoys the luxury of three state-sponsored opera houses. And that's not all! There are many concert halls and the world-famous Philharmonic Orchestra. Berlin’s party scene is unparalleled in the world. It is the only major city without a mandatory closing time. You can eat and/or get wasted for 10 to 20 Euros around the clock. Public transportation will get you to any club, even at four in the morning.

One might think that foreigners would have no cultural problems to merge in Berlin. It is a modern and cosmopolitan city. But even for Germans from another city, Berlin is a challenge. What more for a British, or an American? It's not only the advantages of living in Berlin that make it so special. It has its bad sides too, and this may come as a surprise to many newcomers. Berlin is not for everyone. Berliners have always been known to be tough. In a certain light, they aren't such typical, orderly and law-abiding Germans. The rest of Germany has a rather complicated relationship with its capital.

When it was first named capital in 1871, Berlin was not much more popular in Germany. It has always been an »unloved« place, which arouses resentment as much as admiration. For historical reasons, Germany does not have a tradition of a grand capital. Furthermore, the choice of Berlin was made above all by the politics of »blood and iron«. For many Germans, Berlin is a gigantic social experiment. It is like the unloved black sheep of the family. Berliners only call when they have a hangover or need something. They are unpunctual and prone to spontaneous party outbreaks. The city does not pay its debts, and people like to hang out with strangers. Many Germans don’t understand their capital, and are annoyed, but they also don’t want to miss it.

Germans like to invent words. One of these words is Hassliebe (love-hate). Probably only Germans can get the idea to put these two words together. Nonetheless, it best describes how many people feel about Berlin. Berliners also have an ardent but ambivalent love affair with their town. Almost everyone has something to complain about it. In short, it is a passion to live in Berlin and it is like a life's work to get to know it. In Berlin, urbanity and cosmopolitanism meets with Piefke's coziness. Gourmet temples thrive next to wurst-stands. Villas have been built next to Mietskasernen (rental barracks). Luxury hotels stand next to homeless shelters. You may hear »Berlin snout« and an international jumble of languages. You will experience warmth and rough individualism. All this is the wonderful, difficult and exciting city of Berlin.

In 1910, the writer Karl Scheffler wrote, »Berlin is a city that never is, but which is always becoming.« He described Berlin as »defined by a fundamental lack of organically developed structure.« But this imperfection makes it to one of the most exciting cities in the world. Newcomers enjoy the feeling that there is a place for them. In Berlin, you can make something of yourself.

Observations about the city and its people are as unbiased as is possible. But when delivering compact information, an element of generalization is inevitable. You may find opinions that you agree or disagree with. We all have our own experiences. To my knowledge, what I've written is correct. But since the city is too big and constantly changing, this guide cannot be complete. I cannot guarantee for the accuracy, completeness or quality of the provided information. Some of the links referenced in this work may be no longer active. Prices may have changed, some locations may have been closed or new ones may have been opened. That makes the city vibrant and fun for your exploring. Berlin is a cultural metropolis and colorful scene mecca with »Schnauze und Herz«. So what are you waiting for? Turn the page and get started on your own incredible journey!

Viel Spaß in Berlin.

Build on a swamp – a brief history of Berlin, briefly

Berlin's history is certainly part of its appeal. Some of that history is wonderful and some is quite the opposite. Its story had an inauspicious beginning but it led to great heights: residence of the kings of Prussia, capital of the German Empire, metropolis feted throughout the world in the 1920s, capital of the Third Reich, ruined city, front line in the Cold War, city of the famous Berlin Wall – and, now, once more capital of a united Germany and seat of government. The historian Alexandra Richie said, that »no other city on earth has had such a turbulent history; no other capital has repeatedly become so powerful and then fallen so low. … This city's identity has always been based not on stability but on change.«

The name »Berlin« is believed to be Slavic in origin, from »Brl« (marsh or swamp). And this is an intimation of the beginning of the city. Stendhal once asked: »What would have possessed people to found a city in the middle of all this sand?« Berlin is located at Germany’s north-eastern corner, only 80 kilometers from the Polish border. The area has no natural riches or fortifications. It lies in a plain of swamps, marshes and pine forests. About 10,000 years ago, at the end of the last Ice Age, the Warsaw-Berliner-Urstromtal was formed, a huge river bed that is home to the rivers Spree and Dahme.

Berlin's story began in the 1200s, ironically as a divided city already. Cölln (which name survives in the district of Neukölln) was a village on the river Spree inhabited by fishermen. Berlin's Mitte district grew around old markets. The Nikolai Church and St. Mary's Church can still be seen there. No-one knows exactly when Berlin and Cölln were founded. In 1237, Cölln was mentioned in a document. In 1244, Berlin first appeared in a document.

In 13th century, the region’s Slavic population had already been supplanted by Germans, mainly merchants. In 1307, Berlin and Cölln formed a trading center. It led the defense against the robber barons who terrorized local merchants and peasants. The city prospered and joined the Hanseatic League. It traded in rye, wool and oak timber and provided an entrepôt for Eastern European skins and furs.

In 1415/17, a member of the Hohenzollern family was appointed margrave of Brandenburg. He had defeated the medieval criminal Walter Kiavlehn. So began five hundred years of Hohenzollern rule in the region. In 1871, the Unification of Germany was achieved under the leadership of Chancellor Otto von Bismarck with the formation of the German Empire. He made Berlin the Prussian capital to advance his political and military aims. Friedrich Engels wrote euphorically in a letter that »Berlin, this nest of misfortunes, finally succeeds in becoming a cosmopolitan city.«

The 1870s (the so called »Gründerjahre«) were a time of economic boom thanks to huge sums France had to pay after its defeat in the Franco-Prussian War. The city became the German powerhouse and a European metropolis. But economic progress outran political and social progress. Conditions for the majority were as backward as anywhere in Europe. Common people were living in misery in the Mietskasernen (tenements) while the rich in their palaces lived in luxury.

In the 1890s, Berlin described itself as, »the richest city in Europe« and the »metropolis of science and knowledge.« In 1899, a survey showed that Berlin residents believed the unification of Germany (and the creation of Berlin as its new capital) was the most important thing in the world history of the past hundred years. People expected that Berlin would become the most important place on earth. The First World War shattered that dream. The rulers in Berlin were largely responsible for that bloodbath. 350,000 young Berliners died in the trenches. When the war was over, Berlin was only a shadow of its former self. Kaiser Wilhelm II abdicated, and the Hohenzollerns fell.

The Dawes Plan put Berlin back on track. Within months it was once again among Europe’s foremost industrial cities. Industry’s debts had been cleared by inflation. Production reached soon prewar levels. German exports doubled within five years. At the end of that period, exports per capita were 12% higher than they had been in 1914. The 1920s were a turbulent time for Berlin and it became famous worldwide. In 1920, Greater Berlin area with its twenty districts was founded, doubling Berlin’s population to four million. Social and artistic experiments – unimaginable in Vienna, London and Paris – were happening there. Heinrich Mann called Berlin »a city of excitement and hope« and said that Berlin was anticipating the future. In 1923, Ernest Hemingway wrote, »Berlin is a vulgar, ugly, sullenly dissipated city. After the war, it plunged into an orgy that the Germans called the death dance.« In the eighteenth century, Venice had been a magnet for sex tourists. In the nineteenth century, that role had passed to Paris. And now, it was Berlin’s turn.

The Weimar democracy was threatened by both left and right. Nazis and communists sought to exploit social disruption caused by inflation and unemployment. Berlin became the center of political turmoil. Street battles between Nazis and communists became routine, as well as brutal murders. The most important assassination was that of foreign minister Walther Rathenau in 1922. The numerous examples of collaboration of the Nazis and the communists are less known. In, for example, the November 1932 Berlin Transport Strike, they stood side by side. One group was shouting »Red Front« followed by a »Heil Hitler!«. In Parliament, they often joined forces to turn parliamentary procedure into farce. In July 1930, they forced through a referendum that removed the legal Social Democratic government. Together they forced Chancellor Franz von Papen to dissolve the Reichstag; later elections led to Hitler's victory.

In the last 1932 election, more than 70% of the Berliners voted for either the Communists or the Nazis. 720,000 Berliners voted for Hitler. He took his chance and became Chancellor on January 30, 1933. The Nazi reign of terror began. Hitler predicted, »In ten years nobody will recognize this city.« He was