Venice, an entire world
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Venice, an entire world - Mario Anton Orefice
Mario Anton Orefice
VENICE. AN ENTIRE WORLD
© 2016, Marcianum Press, Venezia.
www.marcianumpress.it
Translations: Jean Rowbottom and Alberto Moretti
Photo: M.A Orefice
Graphic design: minedivine.com
ISBN 978-88-6512-513-7
ISBN: 978-88-6512-513-7
This ebook was created with StreetLib Write (http://write.streetlib.com)
by Simplicissimus Book Farm
Table of contents
An upside-down forest
The Grand Canal
Ca’ Pesaro
Ca’ Foscari
St. Mark’s Basilica
Doge’s Palace
Secret stories
On the tracks of Palladio
An amphitheatre by the sea
The stones of Venice
The anchor and the dolphin
An entire world
Venice is music
Fine art
Other landscapes
Instructions for losing your way
Useful addresses
Events and encounters
Libraries
Museums and exhibitions
Theatres and cinemas
Bookshops
Bibliography
Map
Venice, a place more like an entire world than a city.
Aldo Manuzio
Just the beginning of a long list of things to see,
books to read and people to meet, in the mist or under a blue sky.
The autor
Mario Anton Orefice
VENICE
an entire world
Translated by Jean Rowbottom and Alberto Moretti
MARCIANUM PRESS
Monument to Vittorio Emanuele II on Riva degli Schiavoni
An upside-down forest
Venice is a huge inverted wood. When you walk through the calli or enter the historic buildings, imagine an immense larch forest under your feet. Millions of wooden poles were floated along the rivers from the forests of the Dolomites, Cadore and Cansiglio to provide foundations for the buildings. Other timber entered the Arsenal, the shipyard where the vessels that headed for Byzantium, the Indies and Africa were built.
In 1240 people already marvelled at this City with the sea for a floor, the sky for a roof and flowing water for walls
, as Boncompagno da Signa wrote.
You will fall in love with the Romanesque, Gothic and Byzantine architecture adorned with sacred and profane sculptures, friezes, bas-reliefs and crests; historic buildings decorated with coats of arms, tiles, niches and paterae will delight you; the colour of the stones from the Mediterranean coast will amaze you, as will the asymmetrical arrangement of space and the ever-changing light; juggled reflections of passing clouds and sudden winter mists; an unreal and dreamlike nocturnal Venice where the only noise is your own steps and behind the windows cats curl up on sofas.
Basilica della Salute
The Grand Canal
Arriving in Venice for the first time at piazzale Roma or the Santa Lucia railway station, you could be forgiven for thinking you’re entering a maze. The maze is divided into six districts called sestieri: San Marco, the oldest, San Polo and Santa Croce, the smallest ones, Dorsoduro on solid terrain, Cannaregio, once a canebrake and swamp, and Castello, the site of a fort. House numbers were assigned during Austrian rule in the early nineteenth century: as they are in increasing order for each district you will see low and high numbers close to each other.
You could postpone the pleasure of losing your way in the labyrinth and travel on the city’s most important highway
: the Grand Canal. This waterway is flanked by splendid mansions once the homes of illustrious families. In the first part of the water bus route you will see on the left the Renaissance palace Ca’ Vendramin Calergi, the winter headquarters of the municipal casino, and the Gothic Ca’ d’Oro (1440 ca). On the right there is the Baroque Ca’ Pesaro, now the Museum of Modern and Oriental Art. Rounding a bend you will suddenly see the city’s iconic Rialto Bridge: in the sixteenth century, when the Venice Republic decided to replace the old wooden bridge with a stone one several projects were examined, including those by Sansovino and Palladio, but in the end that of another contestant was chosen: Antonio da Ponte, somewhat of a coincidence because ponte is the Italian word for bridge.
Just before the bridge, on the left, is the Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a Renaissance style building (1531) which in the past provided accommodation for merchants from Northern Europe.
Further on, where the canal curves to the left, you will see on the right Ca’ Foscari, seat of Venice University, the Baroque Ca’ Rezzonico, which houses the Museum of Eighteenth Century Venice, and on the left Palazzo Grassi, home to the Pinault Foundation collections and exhibitions. Not far ahead stands Palazzo Corner della Ca’ Granda, built in 1533 to plans by Jacopo Tatti, known as Sansovino. As you travel along the canal you can’t miss the garden and unmistakable silhouette of Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, with its single ground floor: building started in 1748 but was never finished; it now hosts the Peggy Guggenheim Museum of Modern Art.
Then there is the majestic church of Santa Maria della Salute, designed by Baldassare Longhena in the sixteenth century, and on the left the Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s Square.
Admiring the Venetian buildings on this short