A Gentleman's Guide to Beard and Moustache Management
By Chris Martin
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About this ebook
Chris Martin
CHRIS MARTIN is this very moment endeavoring to become himself, a somemany and tilted thinking animal who sways, hags, loves, trees, lights, listens, and arrives. He is a poet who teaches and learns in mutual measure, as the connective hub of Unrestricted Interest/TILT and the curator of Multiverse, a series of neurodivergent writing from Milkweed Editions. His most recent book of poems is Things to Do in Hell (Coffee House, 2020) and he lives on the edge of Bde Maka Ska in Minneapolis, among the bur oaks and mulberries, with Mary Austin Speaker and their two bewildering creatures.
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A Gentleman's Guide to Beard and Moustache Management - Chris Martin
Introduction
THERE IS an old proverb that says it is manners that make a man. While a solid command of your Ps and Qs may cut it during tea with your grandmother, in the real world we all know that facial hair is the true mark of the alpha male.
Beards and moustaches distinguish men from boys and – mercifully – men from women. They create a direct and hot-blooded connection with our dinosaur-wrestling ancestors and demonstrate a dedication to personal style that would leave Beau Brummel speechless.
The Oxford English Dictionary defines the verb ‘to beard’ as ‘to boldly confront or challenge someone formidable’ and in this book we’ve done just that. We have defied slovenly convention to raise an overflowing glass to the noble art of pogonotrophy. In these pages you will find beards that define the spirit of adventure and academia that made men great, and moustaches of such sophistication that they could make even the most hard-hearted of ladies swoon.
Whether you favour a French Fork, a Donegal, an American Standard or a Fu Manchu, beards and moustaches – be they waxed or natural – make a powerful statement about the kind of man you are.
We offer you these grooming secrets in the hope of ensuring that a new generation of hirsute gods will walk the earth once more.
A
Short History
of Facial Hair
FOR AS long as man has grown facial hair, the beard has been with us. Join us now as we take a journey through the history of pogonotrophy throughout the ages.
PREHISTORIC &
NEOLITHIC BEARD MAN
One likes to think that when our earliest ancestors crawled from the primordial ooze, they wore a Goatee at the very least. Our earliest records of the state of men’s faces probably come from cave paintings. Unfortunately, the representations of human beings found in these ancient images are usually symbolic, so we don’t really know if prehistoric man wore a beard or not. But as these early artists took great care to describe every element of the world around them and there are no drawings of stone razors, mud shaving foam or twig hair tongs, it seems safe to assume that early man was bearded.
Around 300 BC man started shaving with flint. Indeed, archaeologists have found evidence of men using a variety of unpleasant tools to remove their whiskers, including clam shells and sharks’ teeth. This must have been extremely tricky and frankly quite painful. Nonetheless, a formal portrait from ancient Iran from around this time shows a man with a magnificent moustache riding a horse while – no doubt – wincing from screaming razor burn.
ANCIENT & CLASSICAL WORLD
In the early classical civilisations we first see the deliberate styling of a man’s facial hair, from an unruly and unchecked growth hacked at with sharpened stones, to a refined symbol of manhood, wisdom and prestige.
In the Homeric epics of ancient Greece beards were celebrated and portrayed as a badge of virility. When asking for royal favour, it became a form of entreaty to touch the beard of your king. A smooth face was condemned as a sign of effeminacy to the point where the terrifying macho Spartans took to punishing those they considered to be cowards by shaving off their beards.
The ancient Egyptians, on the other hand, were a bit on the fey side and didn’t much care for face fuzz. Copper and gold razors used by the pharaohs have been unearthed in Egyptian tombs. While it may have been fashionable to be soft-cheeked, to give the Egyptians their effeminate due they did at least try to enhance the hair they did have on their chins – usually with henna-based dyes or plaits laced with gold thread to show their ranking in society. Ultimately, the only beards that were really valued by the Egyptians were fake ones, and queens, kings and sometimes even sacred cows took to wearing ornate chin covers fashioned from precious metals, known as postiches.
Luckily the two next great civilisations to come along – in Mesopotamia and Persia – were far more in tune with their bearded selves. Their upper classes grew their beards long and took great pains to style them, using special oils and heated tongs to create long patterned tresses and decorative ringlets.
ANCIENT MACEDONIA
Such unchecked growth in the popularity of beards could not continue, and by the time of Alexander the Great it would all go wrong. Legend has it that the Macedonian custom of shaving the face smooth was introduced when Alexander was preparing to fight against the impressively bearded Persians. When one of his officers brought him word that the army was ready for battle, Alexander promptly decreed