Apulia: A Car Trip
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About this ebook
This small book describes a fifteen days car trip you can take in Apulia and the neighboring regions.
The itinerary starts from the town of Ortona a Mare in Abruzzo. It goes through several cities of Apulia, and then to Matera, a stunning city in Basilicata, vibrant with history, cave hotels, and authentic Italian food. The time to visit Matera is now. The ancient town in Basilicata could be Italy's next great attraction. The itinerary then returns to Apulia and touches other several cities, to arrive in Alberobello, known for its trulli, whitewashed stone huts with conical roofs - the hilltop Rione Monti district has hundreds of them. It continues with other towns in Apulia and the Gargano peninsula, with its National Park, home to the last remaining part of the oak and beech Forest Umbra that once covered most of central Europe. It passes through Termoli, to end up again in Ortona al Mare.
It also describes a possible visit to the Tremiti Islands from Termoli, and how to get there. There are several ferry companies providing transportation services to these islands, the service is available from different ports, with or without the possibility of bringing your car with you. Using Google to find the right solution for your needs is at least confusing if you don't understand Italian. It took me, Italian born in Italy, a full day to figure out what is available and when, and what websites are the ones you should use. In the guide, I present for you the outcome of my research. Many of what you see in Google can be at the top of the results page just because the company that has the website is buying advertising from Google, not because they are the most relevant and essential.
The guide includes a chapter on the food and wine of Apulia. A list of local recipes is present; the links to the original recipes are active in the digital editions.
Enrico Massetti
Enrico Massetti nació en Milán, Italia, donde vivió durante más de 30 años, visitando innumerables destinos turísticos, desde las montañas de los Alpes hasta el mar de Sicilia. Ahora vive en Washington, Estados Unidos. Sin embargo, visita regularmente su ciudad natal y disfruta recorriendo todos los lugares de su país, especialmente aquellos a los que puede llegar en transporte público. Puede contactar con Enrico en enrico@italian-visits.com.
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Apulia - Enrico Massetti
Enrico Massetti
Copyright Enrico Massetti 2014
Published by Enrico Massetti
All Rights Reserved
2020 edition
Acknowledgments
This book is the result of my collaboration with many readers, buyers, photographers that put their work in creative commons license or licensed it at reasonable terms, and critics that by giving me one-star feedback on Amazon told me what I was doing poorly, and what they were expecting instead.
Without their contribution, I could not have done it properly.
Visiting Puglia – The Breadbasket of Italy
Alberobello
Italian vacation accommodation options in Puglia (Apulia) will set visitors in a stunning landscape with a host of sights and attractions.
When it comes to Italy, the question isn't whether you can find enough things to do, but whether you'll have enough time to see and do everything on your ‘must-do' list. (Chances are you won't!) Because of the wealth of choice available, picking a region and itinerary of attractions can be a somewhat overwhelming endeavor, even for those who have been to the country in the past. Even the simple task of choosing your Italian vacation accommodation can be daunting. However, for people visiting Puglia (or Apulia, as it is otherwise known), the choice is much more comfortable.
Puglia, the Breadbasket of Italy
Pinpointing a ‘signature' image for Puglia would be hard. The heel of Italy borders both the Adriatic and Ionian seas, with its coasts, woodlands, farmlands, vineyards, olive groves, and even swamplands, existing alongside medieval hilltop villages and industrialized towns. At its heart, however, Apulia is a breadbasket, specializing in the production of food, whether as growers, ‘catchers,' or manufacturers. Farms and fishing villages still make up the bulk of its communities, and the way of life remains predominantly slow-paced and agricultural.
It is this protectiveness of the land that is so integral to their authentic yet straightforward way of life that has captivated the rest of Europe and the world and has given rise to a new and fast-growing type of tourism: agriturismo. Agriturismo not only allows travelers to experience authentic Apulian life but also offers unique and historical Italian vacation accommodation options that can only be found here: masserie and trulli. In fact, some of these places are attractions in themselves. In addition to the trulli and masserie are both modern and traditional hotels, villas, and apartments.
Where to Stay
The basic concept of agriturismo is simple. As implied by its name, agriturismo is a farm-stay, a working farm that also serves as an Italian vacation accommodation for travelers. However, if you imagine run-down stable-like rooms, you couldn't be more wrong. Typical agriturismo inns are more like apartments, villa, and hotel annexes that offer beautiful and comfortable living spaces and superb services.
Masserie, for example, such as the exceptional Masseria Cupina, are grand structures that were once the main buildings of agricultural estates but that have been converted into boutique hotels (complete with swimming pools). A tour of the farm is generally included, but you won’t be expected to do any chores—although you certainly could if you wanted to! Trulli – traditional Apulian dry stone huts with conical roofs, such as the charming Trullo Pietra, which is converted into a villa, are another unique Italian vacation accommodation option available only in Puglia.
Castles and Cathedrals in Apulia.
This is another land of ancient civilizations, the Messapic, which was native, and the Greek which came from overseas; these two civilizations were enemies until they were fused under Roman domination.
Some of their wealthiest cities disappeared over the centuries, such as Sybaris and Metapontum, others such as Taranto, survived.
Taranto had as significant a population in Roman times as today. Others came later, as the centuries passed. Brindisi came to mark the end of the high road to the East, the Appian Way.
Horace was born in the harsh mountainous country of Venosa and the other great Roman poet Vergil died at Brindisi.
After the fall of the Empire came that long succession of conquests and warfare - Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Swabians, Angevins, Aragonese and Bourbons - a bloody and often dark history, relieved by the civilizing presence of Venice, whose sea-routes to the East skirted the Apulian coats, jutting into the central Mediterranean. There was a brief flowering in the Swabian period when this land dear to Frederick II was covered with beautiful cathedrals and castles.
Castel del Monte, built by the Emperor for hunting and feasting, is still the most excellent example of a medieval castle in Italy; Frederick II died in Castle Fiorentino; in the Lucera district rises the palace where his son Manfred left wife and son before the disastrous battle of Benevento. After the Swabian flowering came the long winter of blood and violence which attended the Angevin conquest, and then the long sleep of the Bourbon regime: