Victorian Jewellery
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Book preview
Victorian Jewellery - Margaret Flower
VICTORIAN
JEWELLERY
by Margaret Flower
WITH A FOREWORD BY MARGARET J. BIGGS
AND A CHAPTER ON COLLECTING BY
DORIS LANGLEY MOORE
WITH 118 PAGES OF ILLUSTRATIONS
AND 10 COLOUR PLATES
FOREWORD
by MARGARET J. BIGGS
I feel very honoured and flattered to have been asked by Mrs Flower to write a few words of introduction for her book. Having been in the Jewellery Trade all my life, I am naturally very interested in this subject, not only from the point of view of the intrinsic value of jewellery as seen by the average male jeweller, but also of its feminine appeal and how it has always been, and is now, complementary to the fashions of the day.
This book is unique in many ways. It is the first to be written in our language on Victorian jewellery and so will fill the gap on the shelf of reference books used by jewellers. Having read this book, and being a past Chairman of the National Association of Goldsmiths and engaged myself in selling jewellery, I can truly say, on behalf of my colleagues, that it will be invaluable to us. We thank Mrs Flower for having spent so much time and trouble in collecting all this information and condensing it into such absorbing, and at the same time, instructional reading.
It certainly must have been very difficult work, because Mrs Flower had not had any previous training in the jewellery trade. It is only because she is so deeply interested in Victorian jewellery that she has accomplished so much. For this very reason, she has approached her subject from an entirely different angle from other textbooks. Perhaps it is not true to call it a textbook, it is more an intriguing historical account of Victorian jewellery and fashions, and how they influenced each other and in turn were both dictated by the standard of living and economic state of the period.
The Victorian era was one of peace and development. The Industrial Revolution brought new prosperity and wealth to thousands, which enabled them to give more extravagant gifts to their women folk. The opening of the gold mines in California and Australia and the discovery of diamonds in South Africa gave added scope to the designers and manufacturers of jewellery. There was more jewellery produced in these years than at any other time before, and each piece the work of a skilled craftsman, designed to suit the particular fashions of each era—the grand romantic period of the crinoline, the more demure mid-Victorian styles, the gorgeous, gay nineties, each called for a different design in jewellery to enhance it. The latter part of the century saw the start of mass-produced jewellery to meet the needs of the middle class.
The average man or woman in the street knows little about the way a piece of jewellery is made, how to assess its value or how to distinguish one precious stone from another or from an imitation, but he or she is always interested to hear of the history behind jewels. For this reason, Victorian Jewellery must prove to be one of the most fascinating books of its kind.
Mrs Flower shows us how the changes in dress and hair styles altered the kind of jewellery worn, and so, by comparing one fashion with another and by reference to the many beautiful illustrations Mrs Flower has collected, one can easily ascertain the approximate date of a piece of jewellery. This is an important point and of great use to the jeweller, as Victorian jewels are the antiques of tomorrow.
I hope I have now made you thoroughly interested in this most rewarding subject, so that you are impatient to delve into the study of Victorian Jewellery.
CONTENTS
COLOUR PLATES
MONOCHROME ILLUSTRATIONS