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    Faceted Gems - A Historical Article on the Methods and Equipment Used in Lapidary
    Faceted Gems - A Historical Article on the Methods and Equipment Used in Lapidary
    Faceted Gems - A Historical Article on the Methods and Equipment Used in Lapidary
    Ebook99 pages58 minutes

    Faceted Gems - A Historical Article on the Methods and Equipment Used in Lapidary

    By Richard M. Pearl

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    About this ebook

    This book contains classic material dating back to the 1900s and before. The content has been carefully selected for its interest and relevance to a modern audience. Carefully selecting the best articles from our collection we have compiled a series of historical and informative publications on the subjects of gemology and crystallography. The titles in this range include "Gemstone Manufacturing" "The Optical Properties of Gemstones and Crystals" "The Thirty-Two Classes of Crystal Symmetry" and many more. Each publication has been professionally curated and includes all details on the original source material. This particular instalment, "Faceted Gems" contains information on the methods and equipment used in lapidary. Intended to illustrate the main features of faceted gems it is a comprehensive guide for anyone wishing to obtain a general knowledge of the subject and to understand the field in its historical context. We are republishing these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateJul 7, 2014
    ISBN9781473395305
    Faceted Gems - A Historical Article on the Methods and Equipment Used in Lapidary

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      Book preview

      Faceted Gems - A Historical Article on the Methods and Equipment Used in Lapidary - Richard M. Pearl

      Introduction to Gemmology

      Gemmology is the science dealing with natural and artificial gems and gemstones. It is considered a geoscience and a branch of mineralogy. Although some practice gemmology as a sole profession, often jewellers become academically trained gemmologists, qualified to identify and evaluate gems. Rudimentary education in gemmology for jewellers and gemmologists began in the nineteenth century, but the first qualifications were instigated after the ‘National Association of Goldsmiths of Great Britain’ (NAG), set up a Gemmological Committee for this purpose in 1908. This committee matured into the ‘Gemmological Association of Great Britain’ (also known as Gem-A), now an educational charity and accredited awarding body, with its courses taught worldwide. The first US graduate of Gem-A’s Diploma Course, in 1929, was Robert Shipley who later established both the ‘Gemmological Institute of America’ and the ‘American Gem Society’. There are now several professional schools and associations of gemmologists and certification programs around the world.

      The first gemmological laboratory serving the jewellery trade was established in London in 1925, prompted by the influx of the newly developed ‘cultured pearl’ and advances in the synthesis of rubies and sapphires. There are now numerous Gem Labs around the world requiring ever more advanced equipment and experience to identify the new challenges - such as treatments to gems, new synthetics and other new materials. Gemstones are basically categorized based on of their crystal structure, specific gravity, refractive index and other optical properties such as pleochroism. The physical property of ‘hardness’ is defined by the nonlinear ‘Mohs Scale’ of mineral hardness. Gemmologists study these factors while valuing or appraising cut and polished gemstones. Gemmological microscopic study of the internal structure is used to determine whether a gem is synthetic or natural, by revealing natural fluid inclusions and partially melted exogenous crystals, in order to demonstrate evidence of heat treatment to enhance colour. The spectroscopic analysis of cut gemstones also allows a gemmologist to understand the atomic structure and identify its origin; a major factor in valuing a gemstone. For example, a ruby from Burma will have definite internal and optical activity variance as compared to a Thai ruby.

      Gem identification is basically a process of elimination. Gemstones of similar colour undergo nondestructive optical testing until there is only one possible identity. Any single test is indicative, only. For example, the specific gravity of ruby is 4.00, glass is 3.15-4.20, and cubic zirconia is 5.6-5.9. So, one can easily tell the difference between cubic zirconia and the other two; however, there is overlap between ruby and glass. And, as with all naturally occurring materials, no two gems are identical. The geological environment in which they are created influences the overall process, so that although the basics can be identified, the presence of chemical ‘impurities’ and substitutions along with structural imperfections vary - thus creating ‘individuals.’ Having said this, the three main methods of testing gems are highly successful in proper identification. These are:

      • Identification by refractive index - This test determines the gems identity by measuring the refraction of light in the gem. Every material has a critical angle, at which point light is reflected back internally. This can be measured and thus used to determine the gem’s identity. Typically, this is measured using a refractometer, although it is possible to measure it using a microscope.

      • Identification by specific gravity – This method, also known as ‘relative density’, varies depending upon the chemical composition and crystal structure type. Heavy liquids with a known specific gravity are used to test loose gemstones. Specific gravity is measured by comparing the weight of the gem in air with the weight of the gem suspended in water.

      • Identification by spectroscopy – This technique uses a similar principle to how a prism works, to separate white light into its component colours. A gemmological spectroscope is utilised to analyse the selective absorption of light in the gem material. Essentially, when light passes from one medium to another, it bends. Blue light bends more than red light. Depending on the gem material, it will adjust how much this light bends. Colouring agents or chromophores show bands in the spectroscope and indicate which element is responsible for the gem’s colour.

      Faceted Gems

      John Ruskin expressed the point of view of the purist, and of the mineralogist as well, when he disapproved of disfiguring any crystal by subjecting it to the cutting and polishing process. But rare is the gem that cannot, for jewelry purposes, be improved in beauty through adequate lapidary treatment.

      Pearl and staurolite are the only gems, in fact, that are worn in their natural state; however, the former is usually pierced for stringing into beads and the latter for hanging on a chain. Thus the art of the lapidary is involved in some manner in the use of all gems. This art at times becomes a science, dependent upon mathematical relationships which only secondarily have aesthetic significance.

      In certain respects, moreover, the value of gems is largely determined by the perfection of their cutting. Poor work may ruin the finest stone, whereas skillful execution shows many inherent possibilities to best advantage.

      Gems are classified in this book according to the style of cutting—facet or cabochon—to which they are most suited. Faceted gems, discussed in this chapter, are characterized by smooth flat surfaces or facets (from the French word meaning little face). Cabochon gems (from the Latin word caput meaning head) have rounded surfaces of varying degrees of curvature; the extension of the surfaces completely around a stone forms a bead. Combinations of both plane and rounded surfaces are also known. There are, in addition, carved and engraved stones fashioned as cameos, spheres, ornaments, and many other forms. Examples of the ingenuity that even an amateur lapidary may display are shown in Fig. 53.

      Almost every gem appears in both major types of design. In general, transparent gems, whose beauty lies in their clearness, brilliancy, and fire, are selected for faceting, for only in this way are the desired properties fully revealed. The cabochon cuts, on the contrary, are more effective for opaque or translucent gems which have a pleasant color, show interesting mottling or markings, or possess unusual optical effects.

      Ludwig van Berquem, of Flanders, is said to have discovered in the 15th century

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